Creaking from the cockpit

[livpoksoc]

Had a bike fit earlier in the week. All minor adjustments around the cockpit, but did include repositioning the shifters and bars - and a spacer out on the headset(?). Also had new shoes and cleats, and a new saddle.
Anyway, went out for a shakedown ride outside this afternoon, and there was a noticeable creak coming from somewhere. I don't think it's in the seat stay or BB area, it seems to be the cockpit.

i did a little rocking test on the bars and there does seem to be a small bit of play in the forks, but wondering why a bike fit would cause that when the top cap was only removed to take out a spacer, and then replaced again?

The bike is a 2014 Trek Madone 3.1. I do have new bearings for the steerer tube ready to install, but was hoping to leave it a few weeks as it hasn't yet seemed totally necessary.

 

[Brandane]

but wondering why a bike fit would cause that when the top cap was only removed to take out a spacer, and then replaced again?

If a spacer was removed, is the top cap now able to put enough tension on the remaining spacers before it is stopped from doing so by the steerer tube? Obviously if the top cap tightens against the steerer tube rather than the top spacer, it's not doing it's job. Not sure if I'm explaining this clearly, but I had a similar problem with a second hand bike I bought, which had slight free play in the forks. I had to put in an additional spacer to cure the problem. Alternatively, I could have cut a few mm off the steerer tube.

 

[roubaixtuesday]

Creaks are always easier to sort if you can replicate stationary.

*if* it's from the cockpit area then you should be able to replicate by putting the front wheel between your knees, holding the bars, and twisting with force in all three axes consecutively.

Given what's been done to the bike, I'd suggest the saddle rail fixings are most likely, or the seat post itself. Again, twist with force in all three axes to replicate, or just remove, grease rails and replace.

Cleats are also a strong candidate, both at interface with pedal and at shoe fixing; bearings IMO unlikely but not impossible.

Good luck, can be a pig to sort.

 

[livpoksoc]

Thanks both. Will have a quick fettle to see if I can diagnose anything obvious. The spacer that was removed was cosmetic (above the stem), so I could just put it back and retighten to torque.

The bikefit place was professional and once everything eas set, went round with a torque wrench and did everything up, so fingers crossed it's some conservative tightening somewhere.

 

[cougie uk]

Grease the bolts on the stem holding the bars on ?

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

Thanks both. Will have a quick fettle to see if I can diagnose anything obvious. The spacer that was removed was cosmetic (above the stem), so I could just put it back and retighten to torque.

The bikefit place was professional and once everything eas set, went round with a torque wrench and did everything up, so fingers crossed it's some conservative tightening somewhere.

Spacers above the stem aren’t necessarily cosmetic. Removing one could cause the top cap to come into contact with the top of the steerer tube before tightening everything sufficiently, as admirably explained by @Brandane above.

 

[fossyant]

Alloy steerer ? The top compression washer can get 'polished' with alloy deposits, so can the steerer. If there are blak marks on both mating surfaces, you need to sand these off, then grease it up before assembly. Used to get it on my commuter every 6-12 months.

 

[Roseland triker]

De-creakin is a dark art .
Strip clean as above and check top cap compression is working.
As above the spacer you removed could well be needed.
.if you are happy with the stem position and the spacer above the stem is required then trim the steerer tube down to allow removal of spacer.
Definitely grease the bolts

 

[boydj]

Normally if you remove a spacer from below the stem you have to put it back in above the stem. Otherwise, as explained above, the top cap will be tightening on the steerer rather than on the stem or a spacer. The alternative is to cut the steerer down a bit.

 

[livpoksoc]

Thanks all for your inputs. The bikefit guy removed the spacer as the steerer was actually already shallower than the top of the stem. I found a bit of play in the steerer/frame though, so undid and retightened. Seems all ok now.

 

[BrumJim]

Always good to check that the creaking is coming from the bike rather than the person sitting on the bike.