Changing for a 44 to 48 outer chain-ring

[Angelfishsolo]

As the title says is it possible to move from a 44 to 48 tooth outer chain-ring without changing the front mech?

 

[HLaB]

I'm no expert but I would have thought that the only restriction is to get the same BCD and bolt pattern (ie 5 bolt), the dérailleur clamp could be shifted up the seat tube.

 

[Crackle]

On a mtn bike? I would thinks so. You will of course have to move it. Normally the front derailleur will specify the range it can handle or the minimum/maximum gap it needs, you might have to find the tech spec sheet for it online if you don't have it but chances are it will.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Cheers guys. I will take a look

Edit - Damn mech only good for 44-32-22 Never mind.

 

[byegad]

Take the 'limit' as a guide not an absolute. You could certainly stretch it some. I'd be looking at lifting the changer and seeing if you haveclearance for a 48,while the chain on the 22 ring does not faul the bottom of the mech. You need to clear the big ring, as you change from middle to big, by an extra 8mm or so. If you can set it like that a 48 will fit, the change might be less slick but 32 to 48 is only 16 teeth and I run a 24 40 55 on my QNT with decent changing.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

Cheers for that. I have got another 44 coming at the moment but maybe next time I'll risk a 48

Take the 'limit' as a guide not an absolute. You could certainly stretch it some. I'd be looking at lifting the changer and seeing if you haveclearance for a 48,while the chain on the 22 ring does not faul the bottom of the mech. You need to clear the big ring, as you change from middle to big, by an extra 8mm or so. If you can set it like that a 48 will fit, the change might be less slick but 32 to 48 is only 16 teeth and I run a 24 40 55 on my QNT with decent changing.

 

[albion]

I'm at the age where I want to go the other way with my 48/38/28 all-in-one. The 48 is almost obsolete for my usage with a 700c wheel.Are there any pitfalls when trying to fit what I assume will be a square tapered crankset?I'm considering a 44/32/22 TOOTH designed for 9 speed on my 7 speed. I'd no doubt probably prefer a 44/36/26 but they don't seem to come standard.Any tips on removing the original suntour unit. I have never removed one though I seem to have a screw in unit to do the job. I'd like to remove and weigh it to help choosing the replacement.

 

[gbb]

Beware one point AFS...i did this on my sons bike. The 48 fouled the chainstays. I got round it by putting a different BB on. Technically i suppose i gave it a poorer chainline, but it worked.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

I am going off the idea TBH. Will have to get another bike instead

Beware one point AFS...i did this on my sons bike. The 48 fouled the chainstays. I got round it by putting a different BB on. Technically i suppose i gave it a poorer chainline, but it worked.

 

[albion]

Seems I am in some luck.I'm not sure what front mech is on the bike bit I recently bought a FD-TZ30 not quite knowing what it was.
Yet this tells you which Shinamo mech does what with half of the MTB models able to cope with either a 44 or a a 48 outer chainwheel.

bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0016-downloadFile.html/10)%20Drivetrain%20Compatability.pdf


So my FD-TZ30 is for a 42/34/24. A capacity of only 18T means my original choice is a no no.
I still don't quite know how to remove my chainset though.

 

[Andy_R]

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-installation-and-removal-square-spindle-type

 

[albion]

Thanks. The video shows you have to turn it 'clockwise' so maybe last time I tried I turned it the other way, though am sure I then tried both.I've now got a Draper extending wheel nut wrench. It's great for getting torque in other tasks so am hopeful it will be cinch this time.