chain slipping help!

[sykes]

I've had my road bike for about 5 months now and it had it's first months service where they tighten every thing up and sort out cables etc etc

But the problem i've got now which seams to be getting worse is every 4-5 revolutions of the pedals it feels like the chain slips so i loose power and a big cracking noise like the bike is trying to change gear.
I've played with the tension of the cable re adjusted the gears so they work fine it's almost as if it's a problem in the back wheel?

Can anyone help thanks

D

 

[domtyler]

Sounds like a re-indexing job to me.

 

[mickle]

Tis one of two things; or possibly four things; or five.

Stiff link; to find it drop the chain onto smallest sprocket-smallest chain ring (to minimise rear der. spring tension) and rotate the pedals, you will be able to spot the stiff un as it passes over the lower jockey wheel.

Toasted freewheel/freehub assembly; One of your pawls is slipping within the mechanism. New part required unless you are confident enough (and have the tools) to strip down and rebuild.

Twisted link; if you've mashed a gear change or had to untangle your chain from around the granny ring recently it may have a twist, tweak it straight with two small adustable spaniards held either side.

Your chain is worn out.

You have a bent tooth or a burr or 'snag' on one of your chain rings, bend it straight with one of the previously mentioned adjustable spaniels or gently remove the snag with a file.

 

[laurence]

is it in all gears or a specific one (or two)?

sounds like the indexing is slightly out, but it could be a chain or sprocket problem.

if it's just a specific gear then look at the sprocket... if it's all of them, check the chain and indexing.

also, look between the sprockets... i had a problem with gears skipping and it turned out to be a bit of twig wedged in the cassette. oops.

L

 

[sykes]

thanks all going to work through the things mickle mentioned (might be a while!)
And report back when i've done it

Ta D

 

[Elmer Fudd]

I believe you should whip it back to where you bought it from as it should have a 12mth guarantee to cover anything that is faulty (i.e. knacked pawl in freewheel).

That is my opinion though, Mickle works in the trade.

 

[gbb]

Agree with Mickles suggestion re freewheel/hub.
Trouble is, you cant 'see' anything wrong if its that.
Is a freehub easy to replace Mickle. I did have a few problems with mine, although it seems to have passed. One day in the winter, i'm going to have a play.

 

[spandex]

changing a freehub... err err yer
10mins maybe 15 on the off chance (i wish)
1st you need get a new one if its a shimano hub there will be a code starting with FH...

stripping down
1) drop out the wheel
2) take off the cassette
3) undo the axle lock nuts and cone non drive side (do not move the nuts on the drive side or when you put it all back togever the axle will be off center NOT GOOD!!!!!!)
4) take out all the bearings both sides
5) get a long 10ml alan key put it into the freehub and turn anti clock
6) take out the bolt of the free hub
7) its off

the rebuild
1) wipe down the hub, the new freehub and the axle
2) put the bolt into the freehub and do up onto the hub
3) put new grease like finish line or.... into where the bearings go (dont skimp on the grease)
4) put the bearings back in and push into the grease
5) put the axle in drive side first
6) put on and do up the cone not to tight now! then the locknut it needs to be tight upto the cone (keep spining the wheel so you know its not to tight but with no play)
7) put the cassette back on
8) wheel back in the bike
slow test ride!!!
Job done

 

[mickle]

changing a freehub... err err yer
10mins maybe 15 on the off chance (i wish)
1st you need get a new one if its a shimano hub there will be a code starting with FH...

stripping down
1) drop out the wheel
2) take off the cassette
3) undo the axle lock nuts and cone non drive side (do not move the nuts on the drive side or when you put it all back togever the axle will be off center NOT GOOD!!!!!!)
4) take out all the bearings both sides
5) get a long 10ml alan key put it into the freehub and turn anti clock
6) take out the bolt of the free hub
7) its off





the rebuild
1) wipe down the hub, the new freehub and the axle
2) put the bolt into the freehub and do up onto the hub
3) put new grease like finish line or.... into where the bearings go (dont skimp on the grease)
4) put the bearings back in and push into the grease
5) put the axle in drive side first
6) put on and do up the cone not to tight now! then the locknut it needs to be tight upto the cone (keep spining the wheel so you know its not to tight but with no play)
7) put the cassette back on
8) wheel back in the bike
slow test ride!!!
Job done

I taught him everything he knows!

Have you wrecked my bike yet Spanners?

 

[spandex]

I taught him everything he knows!

you try your best dont you!! Mr tickle

Have you wrecked my bike yet Spanners?

your bike yer your...bike well well well er er er you know i was going to buy it.... well....

can i go now sir the boat leaves hull before you can get back to york i think (ive seen your driving)