Chain slippage on eMTB

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Spike43

New Member
Location
Brighton
Running a Specialized Turbo Levo Comp eMTB. It has done 1300km from new over Sussex countryside, wet and dry, but has been well cared for and maintained. Has SRAM GX Eagle 11 speed cassette.
Have been watching chain stretch with my Park Tool measurer and my KMC e11 chain is now showing .50 stretch, so decided to change chain as a plan to prolong use of my cassette, according to widely discussed advice. Cassette costs £68, so seems worth trying to get more distance out of it by changing chains to lower cassette wear. Swapped chain with new identical chain. Now getting slippage on the lower few cogs when significant power applied. No slippage on bigger, less frequently used cogs, even with plenty of power applied. No slippage on smaller cogs when just applying moderate power. Problem is more apparent when starting off from standing starts, such as traffic lights.
The implication is that the smaller cogs are past their sell-by date and I need to replace my cassette.
I appreciate that it is commonly discussed that we should change cassette and chain together, but I was hoping by changing the chain earlier (at 0.50 stretch), I would get more miles out of the cassette (which is fairly pricey).
I think I'll probably put the old chain back on and run it with the old cassette until they mutually start causing problems.
Is the idea of changing my chain when stretch shows 0.50 just plain wrong?
Any opinions/advice/ideas would be appreciated, as changing chain and cassette is over £100 and I was hoping to maybe get 3 chains before a cassette change?
 

Spiderweb

Not So Special One
Location
North Yorkshire
A worn cassette after 1300km? This wouldn’t be normal.
I’m presuming you measured you’re new chain against the old and cut to the same length before fitting?
I experienced similar just recently but with a new cassette and chain, I ended up taking 2 extra links out of the new chain even after measuring against the old chain (which may have been too long) no slippage since.
 
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Pikey

Waiting for the turbo to kick in...
Location
Wiltshire
Double check the b screw adjustment too. Apparently the sram bits can be a bit sensitive to this. Mine wasn’t well adjusted from the shop new and I had this, bought the little sram tool and adjusted it and it solved it.
 

Pale Rider

Legendary Member
as changing chain and cassette is over £100

I think you could get those component prices down quite bit.

Chain Reaction has a KMC 11 speed MTB chain for a tenner which should do the job.

Sunrace 11 speed MTB cassettes are available for about £40 if you hunt around.

This one from Bike Discount looks like it should fit.

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy...MI-uL99ILF6wIVwu7tCh0WZQBbEAQYBSABEgI0-PD_BwE

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com...MI-pafnPrE6wIV1GDmCh0Fsw0FEAQYBiABEgL49_D_BwE
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Now getting slippage on the lower few cogs when significant power applied. No slippage on bigger, less frequently used cogs, even with plenty of power applied.
Sounds as if the smaller sprockets have been used disproportionately and worn more than the others.
I think your best option is to refit the old chain and run the chain and cassette together to 'the end'. Well done for holding onto the old chain till you are content (or not) with the new chain - good practice - for everyone. Get a new cassette ready so you can replace both together as soon as skating on the combo occurs.
Experts on how e-bikes wear cassettes/sprockets will be able to agree or not, but I wonder if, because you have motor assistance, you tend to stay in a higher gear longer (than you should) just because 'you can', with the extra watts available, rather than shifting to a larger sprocket. Or (assuming the bike has more than one chainring) you are staying in the small(er) chainring for longer than an all leg powered cyclist would and so spending more time 'on the flat/false flat' in the smaller sprockets. I suggest this would result in more wear and thus result in a new chain skating on those sprockets under full load, even if the old one was only 0.5% elongated.
 
OP
OP
Spike43

Spike43

New Member
Location
Brighton
Thanks so far folks,
I am awaiting a SRAM b-Gap setting tool to arrive and will check/adjust the gap as required.
I changed the chain from the new KMC to a new SRAM chain today. Again, it slipped, but only when I put a lot of power onto the smallest sprocket (standing on pedals climbing a small hill on a tarmac country lane).
I have read elsewhere that the b-gap for these SRAM Eagle rear mechs should be 14mm. It's hard to get a calliper in there, but it seems to be less than 14mm gap at present.
How does b-gap affect slippage?.....does a chain slip if less than or greater than the correct b-gap setting?
As "Spiderweb" mentioned, it would seem odd for the cassette to be worn out (even the small cogs) after only 1300km. I looked at the sprockets closely today, and they are not at all "pointed". They look pretty square-ended, suggesting not particularly worn? (will get some pics and post)
I have double-checked the chains and the original (old) chain has exactly the same number of links as the new ones (both KMC and SRAM).
The problem is not too bad at present, but my curious nature really wants to get to the bottom of what is happening here.
I'm a little reluctant to try taking a chain link or two out at this stage as I understand they can't be put back in without weakening the chain (is my understanding correct?...I'm here to learn).
So next stage is to wait for the b-gap setting tool to arrive (and not put a lot of power down on the smallest cog for now).
Spike 43
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
it slipped, but only when I put a lot of power onto the smallest sprocket (standing on pedals climbing a small hill on a tarmac country lane).
Why would one ever be in the smallest sprocket riding uphill?
What is the cassette range? What is the chainring tooth count?
When the chain is on the (small) chainring and the smallest sprocket, what is the gap between the chain (return section to the section between the jockey wheels)?
 
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fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
A worn cassette after 1300km? This wouldn’t be normal.
I’m presuming you measured you’re new chain against the old and cut to the same length before fitting?
I experienced similar just recently but with a new cassette and chain, I ended up taking 2 extra links out of the new chain even after measuring against the old chain (which may have been too long) no slippage since.

MTB mucky miles could wear a cassette in 1300km depending upon how often OP cleans the crap off.
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
OP, if you are running 11 speed, it's not Eagle and doesn't need the extra careful setup with the b screw.
 

iluvmybike

Über Member
Ebikes need changes of chain, cassettes & front rings more often than non ebikes - they generate a lot of torque. You have to factor the additional maintenance costs in when you buy one
 
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