Chain for my 70s racer

[yello]

I've got a Raleigh Competition from the mid 70s, a lovely 10sp bike (2 chainrings and 5 speed freewheel) No idea of its provenance, I bought it over 10 years back from a 2nd hand store, so no idea of mileage. The chain, original from when I bought it, is due a bit of tlc but I'm thinking of replacing it.

I've a suspicion that the current chain is not the best for it since there's always been a bit of noise (nothing irritating) and it very occasionally doesn't drop cleanly onto the small chainring and just slips (like a false neutral!) Most of the time, it evenually reseats but I have once had to stop and manually reseat it. I've read suggestion that can be caused by an incorrect guage chain being used (slightly too narrow)

I had assumed that any ordinary 6, 7 or 8 speed chain would be fine but now I'm not so sure.

 

[fossyant]

Yes, 6/7/8 speed chain.

 

[si_c]

Any chain of up to 8 speed will do - if it's dropping off the smaller chainring though a new chain won't fix that, you'll need to adjust the derailleur limit screws, an easy enough fix though.

 

[MichaelW2]

Are the teeth of your freewheel or chainring worn? Sharks fin profile is way past its sell by date.

 

[wafter]

Might be worth checking it with a chain checker before consigning it not the bin; if it moves freely and isn't excessively elongated there's no need to replace it..

 

[Paulus]

Maybe as @wafter says it could be salvageable.
Give the chain, Chainrings and the freewheel and good clean and lube, adjust the front mech limit screws as necessary and see how it goes.
A new chain for a 5 speed is easily available from a bike shop if needed.

 

[raleighnut]

I'd check the front mech is moving freely, the pivots can get a bit gunged up.

 

[yello]

A new chain for a 5 speed is easily available from a bike shop if needed.

Yep, Decathlon have a curiously named '3 to 8 speed' for a tenner. Should do the trick.

I'm going to clean up the drive chain first, just to see if that improves things, but a new chain (of the the right type) is hardly going to break the bank.

Interestingly, I read someone post a sniffy comment about chain checkers. I've always trusted mine so it came as a bit of a surprise to me. That's the wonderful thing about the interweb, there's always differing opinions.

 

[wafter]

Interestingly, I read someone post a sniffy comment about chain checkers. I've always trusted mine so it came as a bit of a surprise to me. That's the wonderful thing about the interweb, there's always differing opinions.

Some are better than others; the Shimano TL-41 (and others that measure in a similar manner) appear to be the ones to have..

 

[yello]

Mine's a Park Tools one, I figured it was a 'go to'.

 

[yello]

if it's dropping off the smaller chainring

It's not dropping off, It's just sitting on top of it; the chain not engaging with the teeth. It's not something I've experienced before. I've read it can be due to the chain being slightly too narrow.

 

[Paulus]

Does the chain work ok on the smaller chainring and rear block? If so the chain can't be too narrow

 

[si_c]

It's not dropping off, It's just sitting on top of it; the chain not engaging with the teeth. It's not something I've experienced before. I've read it can be due to the chain being slightly too narrow.

The chains are all internally the same dimentions, it's the external dimensions which change (i.e. get thinner) as the number of speeds increases, so it's not the chain being too narrow.

Sounds more as though the chain is too worn, which has implications for how the chainset and rear freewheel in that they are also likely to be over worn now.

 

[Punkawallah]

I ride ten/twelve speed bikes, had no problems from Clark’s 5-7 speed chain if you find you need a new one.
Good luck with the fix :-)

 

[yello]

Does the chain work ok on the smaller chainring and rear block? If so the chain can't be too narrow

It works fine but for this occasional issue when changing from big to little ring.