Caught in rain

[Monsieur Remings]

Okay, thought I might get back in time and what started as a little drizzle ended up pretty vile. This was Sunday.

Now, here's what I have done so far and I'd be really appreciative if anybody could add anything else as some people havementioned some fairly excessive things...

1. I wiped the frame down and got rid with a dry rag of all noticeable water and dirt from all surfaces, including frame, rims etc.
2. Used degreaser and toothbrush on the chain and relubed.
3. Degreased the cassette, still on the wheel (?), and relubed along with wd 40 in the joints of the front and rear mechs after removing visible crunt.
4. Used a toothbrush on the brakes and calipers, after removing wheels and added wd40 to joints.
5. Undid the seatpost, turned the frame upside down, a little bit of water but nothing major and left for 24 hours in warmth.
6. Sprayed a bit of wd40 into frame where BB is visible from the top and left for further time and then regreased and refitted seatpost.
7. Sprayed wd40 near joints and cable ends in shifters
8. Sprayed wd40 inbetween slit in headset transition (???) wiped off excess.
9. Sprayed 40 from exterior into crank arm joint with BB (???)

Do I need to do anything else? Some have suggested taking off the headset (don't belive I have the right tools) and the wheels to check the rims for water inside, as well as the hubs (my hubs are sealed and so therefore can be replaced but is there anything that can be done otherwise?

Sorry this is really green, any advice would be really appreciated as even though I want this bike to be my winter bike (fenders pending) I want to look after her because she's been really good for me.

 

[screenman]

Wd40 is not really a lubricant so you may want to use some. if you have left the bike in the warm for 24 hours then I would say it is dry, many like me just ride the bike and clean it when we have forgotten what colour it is.

 

[2Loose]

It all sounds a bit excessive and depending on how often you do this, may even quicken deterioration because WD40 will dissolve the grease that should be keeping everything moving nicely.

A good wash and dry, followed by wiping the chain clean and relube it (search this forum for the 'Mickle method' of chain cleaning & lubing) is something that can be done at any point. Don't use WD40\GT85 or whatever because it will help wash the grease inside the links out of the chain.

A drop of light oil on pivots after a good wash is not going to hurt. Neither will a spray of WD40 on the cable ends in the shifters which will help prevent corrosion and even lengthen the life of the cable.

A squirt of WD40\GT85 is good on exposed nut/bolt ends to prevent rust, but proper grease is for the threads if you remove them ever.

Removing the seatpost and greasing (if it is metal) is advisable once every 3-6 months to help stop it seizing up. No need after every drop of rain.

 

[raindog]

I've never done any of those things after riding in the rain and now I'm worried in case I should have.

 

[monkeypony]

My advice would be to do none of that. Its a bike not a bloody ipad!

A winter bike will get wet and mucky, all the time. Going to those lengths each time it does will drive you insane. Only if I was putting it away at the end of the season would I do any of that other than oiling the chain when necessary (which actually isn't very often).

And I wouldn't use WD40, ever.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Okay, many thanks to one and all for the advice there. Meant to say I didn't use wd40/G85 on the chain but some teflon lube. I presume this sort of lube is okay to use everywhere else, yes?

 

[2Loose]

Okay, many thanks to one and all for the advice there. Meant to say I didn't use wd40/G85 on the chain but some teflon lube. I presume this sort of lube is okay to use everywhere else, yes?

That'll be fine good for any small moving parts such as pivots & chain.

 

[Scoosh]

It all sounds a bit excessive and depending on how often you do this, may even quicken deterioration because WD40 will dissolve the grease that should be keeping everything moving nicely.

A good wash and dry, followed by wiping the chain clean and relube it (search this forum for the 'Mickle method' of chain cleaning & lubing) is something that can be done at any point. Don't use WD40\GT85 or whatever because it will help wash the grease inside the links out of the chain.

A drop of light oil on pivots after a good wash is not going to hurt. Neither will a spray of WD40 on the cable ends in the shifters which will help prevent corrosion and even lengthen the life of the cable.

A squirt of WD40\GT85 is good on exposed nut/bolt ends to prevent rust, but proper grease is for the threads if you remove them ever.

Removing the seatpost and greasing (if it is metal) is advisable once every 3-6 months to help stop it seizing up. No need after every drop of rain.

I have this bookmarked !

Post #9 refers.

The Mickle Method is almost a CC initiation rite

.


I'd also agree that, while highly commendable in most areas, your efforts are a tad excessive - they are unlikely to become a 'routine' as there is too much work involved.

In terms of chain maintenance, the Mickle Method scores highly because it is quick (3 mins max), easy to remember and ..... it works !

 

[2Loose]

The Mickle Method is almost a CC initiation rite

.

...

In terms of chain maintenance, the Mickle Method scores highly because it is quick (3 mins max), easy to remember and ..... it works !

I think Mickle knows that his technique is famous around these here parts already.

 

[henshaw11]

WD40 down cables is fine - elsewhere a no-no/unnecessary. I once ruined a freshly overhauled headset by lobbing WD40 at it over a winter's-worth of commute - when I next came to overhauled it there was very little grease and rusty ball-bearings/races.

If it's in a warmish spot it'll probably dry ok almost left as-is, tho' the chain might pick up some surface rust - tho' a wipe down over the whole bike to remove the worst won't do any harm - and you could run the chain backwards over some kitchen roll to absorb the excess water.

Depending on where the seatube slot is, it might be worth whipping out the saddle/seatpin and tipping it upside down to let any water out.

Oh, t'other thing - depending on what the headset construction is, and whether you've got mudguards - Lizard Skins do a little neoprene/velcro thing which wraps round the (lower) headset - this can keep off the worst of the water/crap from being chucked at it. You can do the same thing by cutting a 1" long section of inner tube and putting that over instead, tho' you have to drop the forks out of the frame first. With either you still ought to remove/roll them back to allow any remaining water to dry out. But with a lot of headsets you probably don't need to worry, it's only if the seals are a bit rubbish.

 

[Downward]

I've never done any of those things after riding in the rain and now I'm worried in case I should have.

Or me
Best check My bike hasn't fallen apart

 

[2Loose]

Or me
Best check My bike hasn't fallen apart

OMG you are all riding deathtraps! You should be spending at least 15 minutes on maintenance and polishing for every 30 minute ride...

Seriously though, I ride mine every day in all weathers and give it a 5 minute look over at least twice a week to try and keep it in good nick and running sweetly. A work colleague gets the mickey taken by me when I spot his rusting chain every few months, but his bike has been running fine for several years.

I think the main thing is to give it a clean every so often so you know which bits are corroding\wearing out in advance of them stopping you riding.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Many thanks to one and all...have stopped being so fussy and will take a more practical stance in the future. Thanks for the info on WD40, guess it doesn't stop with water and likes to disperse that grease too.