Cattle Grids.......

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spence

spence

Über Member
Location
Northants
...was I just unlucky today or is there a technique?

Went across my first cattle grid on the road bike today and it blew the rear tyre. On the fat tyred bikes they're no problem, just ride across without worrying about them. So are they best avoided?
 
J

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
When you see a Cattle grid sign, sprint, at the last moment jump to take the weight off the tyres.
 
Randochap

Randochap

Senior hunter
Location
British Columbia, Canada
spence said:
...was I just unlucky today or is there a technique?

Went across my first cattle grid on the road bike today and it blew the rear tyre. On the fat tyred bikes they're no problem, just ride across without worrying about them. So are they best avoided?
Click to expand...

There's a a technique to everything.

But there's some variables too.

  • Rider weight
  • tyre pressure
  • tyre quality

So, it would be helpful to know if you had the correct tyre pressure for tyre/conditions.

You say "blew the rear tyre" but I'm assuming you got a pinch flat Correct? If you actually blew the tyre, then that's a really extreme case.

Anyway, the trick is to "unweight' the bike as you cross by sort of jumping upward. This won't work very well, unless you have clipless pedals or toe clips and straps. The thing is, if you are a dead weight on the bike any good bump is likely to cause a pinch flat.

Combine proper tyre pressure w/ nimble bike handling and you'll reduce pinch flats.

As you know, fatter tyres reduce the problem. Another argument for more volume = faster and more comfy ride for the vast majority of riders.
 
OP
OP
spence

spence

Über Member
Location
Northants
OK. Me 14 stone, tyres are new Panaracer Extreme Evo3's with 100psi in (min on side walls). I did un-weight the bike (spd's) as I crossed.
Yep, pinch flat. Although I could only see one split in the tube, not the usual snake bite. May have been just ublucky.

Oh, by fat tyres I'm talking about 2.2-2.4 MTB's, both HT and FS.
 
longers

longers

Legendary Member
Now that I really, really would like to see :biggrin:
 
C

Crackle

..
Don't agree with this jumping lark. It might work on small grids if you're skilled enough to do it but if not you're likely to come a cropper.

My technique is not to fast, not to slow. Before you reach it stand up and centre your weight over the bike with a light but secure grip on the bars. Also before you hit it, pick your line. Most cattle grids will have raised sections and flat sections. The raised section is normally in the car tyre line where the road is worn or the grids buckled up slightly, to either side of that is the place to aim. Often that's more to the centre of the grid.

As you hit it, stay dead straight, let you knees buckle slightly with the impact to absorb some force, stay relaxed and you'll be over it.

I used to cross 3 or 4 deer grids on a regular ride, one of them uphill at only 6 or 7 mph, which requires the same technique but using a smooth and fluid pedal action so you don't need to throw too much weight from side to side.

So far no mishaps.
 
D

dodgy

Guest
Different type of grids though aren't there? Yesterday I was up the Bwlch Penbarras and around there you'll find grids with square profile bars which in my opinion are better than the round profile bars as all the weight of the bike is focused onto a small section of steel. The square profile at least spread the load a bit more.
 
HJ

HJ

Cycling in Scotland
Location
Auld Reekie
To me the main thing it to keep your handle bars parallel with the bars of the grid and your wheels are perpendicular to the bars of the grid...
 
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