Cassette change not getting biggest gear

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Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
Ive swapped my 8 speed cassette from the standard shimano 13-26 to a sram 11-28. I can get all the gears except the 11 tooth cog, ive tried indexing it to no avail and even taken the cable out but it's not centering on the lowest cog!

My old cassette and chain combo worked well but the worn chain means I may as well replace the cassette. Im loving the cassette and range (the hills seem quite a bit easier) and I can spin up to 40 mph now on a short descent by my house using the second smallest cog. Will I need a new rear deraillier to get the lowest cog or is there something im missing?

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NotthatJasonKenny

Faster on HFLC
Location
Bolton
It's still an 8 speed cog?

I've just had problems after swapping a like for like cassette, have you checked the low and high settings?
 
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Kiwiavenger

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
It's 8 to 8 so no problems there. The low and high are still the same as before, both fully screwed in, and ive taken the cable out to see if that could have caused it, it just doesnt seem to move over the smallest cog even with no cable tension

It's shimano s2300 rear deraillier by the way

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Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Sounds like you haven't adjusted the rear mech to work with your new cassette, which may have a slightly wider chainline than the previous one, or the new angles of the larger to smaller cogs may give this effect. You need to set the b screw on the mech to ensure it meshes properly with the largest cog. This screw is found at the back of the mech and adjusts where the entire mech sits relative to the largest sprocket. Lined up with the largest sprocket the chain should run onto the jockey wheel with a clearance of about the width of the chain.
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Once you're happy you have the right clearance, you need to set the lower limit screws. At the moment it sounds like your mech needs the high screw letting out a turn or two so that it can drop wider.

If this doesn't work you need to check that your mech is compatible with the ratios. It should be fine, but if it's a really short cage one you may need to upgrade.
 
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Kiwiavenger

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
After my incessant tinkering it now drops into the lowest cog but needs re indexing as the largest cog wont engage! Ah well, will get my workstand tomorrow and carry on tinkering!

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Kiwiavenger

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
workstand got, rear gears now indexed properly. however i noticed a slight bit of play in the rear casette (have tightened up as much as i dare by hand!) rode it into work this morning and on the 34/14 i put a bit of power down and the chain slipped a bit, when i took it out last night to check it i was able to almost pul wheelies from seated when checking slip etc so im a tad confused!

is it worth me tightening the lockring a bit more to eliminate the play? or see how it goes for the next day or two.
 

compo

Veteran
Location
Harlow
is it worth me tightening the lockring a bit more to eliminate the play? or see how it goes for the next day or two.

Most have a torque setting range engraved on the lock ring. My Shimano recommends between 30 - 50 nm's, which in proper language equates to 22 - 36 foot pounds, which in even more proper language is pretty tight.
 
Chainslip with new cassette usually means new chain as well.

If the cassette is loose then it's usually the locknut that needs tightening a bit more - but if you have tightened it up considerably already I would take the cassette off and waggle the freehub itself to see if that is the cause.
 
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Kiwiavenger

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
the old shi*mano one i had said 40 nm, ive done it up hand tight then used the socket bit on the chain whip to tighten it up a further turn. might just have a crack and tighten it up a bit more tonight! i do have a torque wrench that goes to 25 NM so will chuck that on and see first
 
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Kiwiavenger

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
Chainslip with new cassette usually means new chain as well.

If the cassette is loose then it's usually the locknut that needs tightening a bit more - but if you have tightened it up considerably already I would take the cassette off and waggle the freehub itself to see if that is the cause.

was new cassette and chain put on a few days ago. its strange though cause it was on a moderate incline (about 4%) and didnt happen when out the saddle or on the steeper sections (anything up to 8% i believe).
 
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Kiwiavenger

Kiwiavenger

im a little tea pot
Ive tightened the cassette, minimal play now. Dont think it can be the chairing as before I moved here I never needed anything other than the 50, this is happening on the much less worn 34 ring. Will see what it's like Monday on the commute

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