Carrera Vulcan e spec

[classic33]

Motor has stopped working, but every so often it tries to cut in, for a few seconds, but no continuous power being supplied by the rear wheel.

Rather than replace the wheel or the bike first, is there any other means that might make the hub motor stop working, that people have come across.

It was second hand from someone who moved to a road bike from a mountain bike. Little use by the original owner before being passed on. Current owner is a bit put out at possibly having to replace the wheel.

 

[Tenkaykev]

Motor has stopped working, but every so often it tries to cut in, for a few seconds, but no continuous power being supplied by the rear wheel.

Rather than replace the wheel or the bike first, is there any other means that might make the hub motor stop working, that people have come across.

It was second hand from someone who moved to a road bike from a mountain bike. Little use by the original owner before being passed on. Current owner is a bit put out at possibly having to replace the wheel.

If it’s intermittent then I’d check for loose connections / broken wire.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Do you have the means to check if there is any current coming to the motor/from the battery?

ACtually I had a similar problem a few weeks ago

Turned out that the puch connector between the battery and the motor was not pushed fully in
Well - actually it was the wrong way round as well - funny that the wheel tried to rotate a few degrees like that

so try checking the connectors first

 

[classic33]

The battery is working, that was tried on another bike. Same issue with the battery from the other bike, nothing.
He's checked what wiring he can, which lead us both to suspect the wheel. Either the motor itself or a loose connection inside.

 

[Watercarrier]

I fitted a kit to an existing bike and had trouble with connections as they were very stiff. Apart from that if it has a pedal sensor check this is picking up the magnet.

 

[bonzobanana]

The torque sensor in the crank can be problematic so need to check that is working correctly and not damaged, that provides important data to the controller on whether the crank is turning and how much turning force. Like most ebikes poor cable connections or a invisible break in a capable can cause issues. Then you have the controller itself which could have a fault. I'd probably check the crank torque sensor first. Of course a failing battery can also lead to issues where it simply can't provide sufficient power to drive the motor as some cells have failed but sounds like you have eliminated that as a possibility.

Make sure you try all the power levels. I think on the low power level it will only assist when you are riding harder but the full power level should work even if the torque sensor is sensing minimal effort by the rider. I've not used such an ebike myself but I think I read that is how the Suntour HESC system works.

 

[gbb]

The torque sensor in the crank can be problematic so need to check that is working correctly and not damaged, that provides important data to the controller on whether the crank is turning and how much turning force. Like most ebikes poor cable connections or a invisible break in a capable can cause issues. Then you have the controller itself which could have a fault. I'd probably check the crank torque sensor first. Of course a failing battery can also lead to issues where it simply can't provide sufficient power to drive the motor as some cells have failed but sounds like you have eliminated that as a possibility.

Make sure you try all the power levels. I think on the low power level it will only assist when you are riding harder but the full power level should work even if the torque sensor is sensing minimal effort by the rider. I've not used such an ebike myself but I think I read that is how the Suntour HESC system works.

Yep, the torque sensor would be my first port of call (i have the HESC system so there may be changes)
Feed cable passes under the BB and up into the crank. I don't think you can actually see the sensor without removing the crank. Remove crank carefully, the sensor and cable will come off with it, then a couple small screws connect the sensor to the crank assembly. You may see damage , you may not. Its a bit fiddly but quite do-able.

Actually, first, , an easier thing to check is the rear wheel /motor connector , mounted on the bottom stay, mine's under a waterproof cover with Suntour printed on it iirc, remove the cover, make sure that connection is good.