Carbon Wheels

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stu1903

Über Member
Location
Scotland
I'm sure this is going to open a can of worms but I'm looking for some advice.

Been thinking of getting a pair of carbon wheels for a while now and have money saved up from selling some stuff as my birthday.

What's everyone's thoughts on carbon wheels?

After extensive research I'd settled on the Planet-x 50mm ones.

Would you go tub or clinchers?
Alloy or carbon braking rim?

They are for training an sportives.

As I say I'd made my decision now my mates are all saying different things and I'm starting to re-think.

I currently run a set of Fulcrum 5 wheels.
 

Lee_M

Guru
I've never seen the point of tubs outside racing - all that hassle, I'll stick to clinchers thx

I've also got ally brake rims again 'cos its easier - and also easier to swap to my winter wheels (or it would be if I hadnt had to reindex everything last night!)
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
I would tend to agree with Lee, tubs are great for racing, where a puncture pretty much means your race is over anyway (unless you take a spare set of wheels). But they are more hassle and carrying spares is a greater expense. How much do you fancy standing on the side of the road trying to pull a well glued tub off of your rim so you can put a spare (£50) on and limp home?

Carbon wheels with alloy rims come in different forms, there are those like Mavic Cosmic Carbone which is just a carbon fairing on an alloy rim, the carbon is not structural. Others are bonded and the carbon is structural. But either of these would probably suit you since you are not using them in a situation where performance is key and you will more likely need the added durability and wet weather braking benefits of alloy braking surfaces.

Other than looks, not really sure why people would choose to train and ride sportives on deep section wheels tbh.
 
OP
OP
stu1903

stu1903

Über Member
Location
Scotland
I had looked at the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SL clinchers and had pretty much settled on them until my mates started throwing other suggestions into the mix.
 
I run tubs on zip 404's for racing short races only (up to 25 miles). I've punctured in races and had to change a tub to finish which was a bit quicker than changing an inner tube. I tossed the punctured tub on a hedge and picked it up later. But you can't corner fast on an unglued tub !
But if you are belting down a hill and a tub punctures you don't come off like you would on a clincher that ends up skating on the rims.
For longer stuff I use clinchers as I don't want to carry two tubs.
The 404's on the front are a pain in a wind over 15 mph, so light, they catch it straight away and I sometimes mix tubs and clinchers because of this.

Since Tony Martin won the word tt champs on a clincher I've had my doubts over the value of tubs for mortals like me.
A lot of sportives are going to take you over the top of hills where it gets windy and a 50mm front wheel may be like a kite if it is very light. You need to be shifting to keep the momentum up to keep them stable.

I'm toying with giving up on the 404's and tubs and going all clinchers.
So if I was going for a new set of wheels and only one set for all round use, I'd go for something like a 35mm front and may be a 50 or 80 rear set of clinchers with as few spokes as possible.
If you are in the north east any time you can try my set of 404's, but if you bust a tub it's going to cost you between £50-70.
HTH.
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
I run tubs on zip 404's for racing short races only (up to 25 miles). I've punctured in races and had to change a tub to finish which was a bit quicker than changing an inner tube. I tossed the punctured tub on a hedge and picked it up later. But you can't corner fast on an unglued tub !
But if you are belting down a hill and a tub punctures you don't come off like you would on a clincher that ends up skating on the rims.
For longer stuff I use clinchers as I don't want to carry two tubs.
The 404's on the front are a pain in a wind over 15 mph, so light, they catch it straight away and I sometimes mix tubs and clinchers because of this.

Since Tony Martin won the word tt champs on a clincher I've had my doubts over the value of tubs for mortals like me.
A lot of sportives are going to take you over the top of hills where it gets windy and a 50mm front wheel may be like a kite if it is very light. You need to be shifting to keep the momentum up to keep them stable.

I'm toying with giving up on the 404's and tubs and going all clinchers.
So if I was going for a new set of wheels and only one set for all round use, I'd go for something like a 35mm front and may be a 50 or 80 rear set of clinchers with as few spokes as possible.
If you are in the north east any time you can try my set of 404's, but if you bust a tub it's going to cost you between £50-70.
HTH.

To be fair, he was head and shoulders above the competition in the year before last IIRC, he probably would have won riding a wheel made out of rock, lol. On a serious note, he was it riding a wider Zipp rim that causes a clincher to take on a profile similar to that of a tub, only a few wheel manufacturers (and high end ones at that) seem to have got that cracked, for most wheels, the profile will be different and you will still get the same old bulbing effect which effects handling and aerodynamics.

BTW, I have no opinion either way and neither choice would make much difference to me, just stating some of the circumstances.

I run tubs on my disc/trispoke because A) The bulk of the investment was lesser for a tubular dic wheel, B) The Trispoke only comes in a tubular setup, C) They weigh less than the equivalent clincher versions (so cheaper and lighter), D) I ride 10's and 25's, a puncture is race over so it doesn't make any difference whether I am riding tubs or clinchers, whatever I use, I will only be limping back to HQ after sorting it. The fastest wheel tyre combination did not really weigh much on my mind because I am probably not going to be doing sub-20 minute 10 mile TT's so the small difference the tyre provides vs the much bigger difference the wheels themself give rise to was not all that important.

I was told by a club mate that I could save 4W by gluing a tub vs taping it (he probably gave the example for someone riding at his speeds, 30+ mph for a 10-25 mile TT). NICE. 4W makes sod all difference to me.
 

Lee_M

Guru
I had looked at the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SL clinchers and had pretty much settled on them until my mates started throwing other suggestions into the mix.

I just bought some SRs they're great - and yes I bought them because they look cool, but they are so stiff I'm looking forward to a good long ride if it ever stops snowing!
 

Peter Armstrong

Über Member
I'm sure this is going to open a can of worms but I'm looking for some advice.

Been thinking of getting a pair of carbon wheels for a while now and have money saved up from selling some stuff as my birthday.

What's everyone's thoughts on carbon wheels?

After extensive research I'd settled on the Planet-x 50mm ones.

Would you go tub or clinchers?
Alloy or carbon braking rim?

They are for training an sportives.

As I say I'd made my decision now my mates are all saying different things and I'm starting to re-think.

I currently run a set of Fulcrum 5 wheels.

Sell me the Fulcrum 5's!!!!!!
 
I was told by a club mate that I could save 4W by gluing a tub vs taping it (he probably gave the example for someone riding at his speeds, 30+ mph for a 10-25 mile TT). NICE. 4W makes sod all difference to me.

The amount of glue does effect rolling resistance, so what I do is apply it to the tub any old how, let it dry, apply it to the rim in dabs and go over it with a paint brush dipped in white spirit to get a smooth thin layer. Then I go back to the tub and do the same with the brush and wipe of any excess, it gives a nice even finish to both surfaces. While it is still damp I put the two together and they stick sound. Wipe off any excess with white spirit.
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
The amount of glue does effect rolling resistance, so what I do is apply it to the tub any old how, let it dry, apply it to the rim in dabs and go over it with a paint brush dipped in white spirit to get a smooth thin layer. Then I go back to the tub and do the same with the brush and wipe of any excess, it gives a nice even finish to both surfaces. While it is still damp I put the two together and they stick sound. Wipe off any excess with white spirit.
Yup, not disputing it, he knows plenty and I take his word as correct, just saying 4W is basically nothing to me (with an FTP of ~308 W and not going particularly fast). :smile:
 
For the £££ the Planet X 50's are excellent. I have the tubs and would highly recommend them. A decent set of tyres is a must though, i run Schwalbe ultremo raceguards and so far they have been perfect. The rolling resistance is noticeabe too. Tubs are not for riding everyday imo unless you are very very keen.
For comparison purposes i would say the 50mm tubs make it easier to hold 20mph+ on the flats - compared to my Fulcrum 1's anyway. This could be calculated in to a power/watt saving but i am unsure what that is. Estimates are usually around 5%. They also weigh 1400 grams a pair which makes them good for climbing too.

The two downsides i have noticed with these wheels are A) they flex lightly under serious power and B) if running the tubs the spokes are adjusted from inside the rim making it a real pain if you need to true the wheel.

Still though, highly recommend.
 

Cyclist33

Guest
Location
Warrington
I'm sure this is going to open a can of worms but I'm looking for some advice.

Been thinking of getting a pair of carbon wheels for a while now and have money saved up from selling some stuff as my birthday.

What's everyone's thoughts on carbon wheels?

After extensive research I'd settled on the Planet-x 50mm ones.

Would you go tub or clinchers?
Alloy or carbon braking rim?

They are for training an sportives.

As I say I'd made my decision now my mates are all saying different things and I'm starting to re-think.

I currently run a set of Fulcrum 5 wheels.

correct me if im wrong, and granted that ive never ridden such deep sections, but i thought deep aero rims were for hi speed short distance riding like time trials. i thought it was a established fact that they are pointless for longer and slower endurance stuff like sportives and training, owing to their properties.

wouldnt you be better getting a hi quality set of regular box section or semi aero wheels? are you just being drawn by the temptation of bling?
 
correct me if im wrong, and granted that ive never ridden such deep sections, but i thought deep aero rims were for hi speed short distance riding like time trials. i thought it was a established fact that they are pointless for longer and slower endurance stuff like sportives and training, owing to their properties.

wouldnt you be better getting a hi quality set of regular box section or semi aero wheels? are you just being drawn by the temptation of bling?
50mm is considered semi aero. Not that much of an issue with crosswinds. Wouldn't train on them personally but i would happily compete in them, including sportives and longer rides. The aero quality means that less energy is required to maintain decent speeds. A highly useful asset indeed. Not to mention being lighter than most other rims. :thumbsup:
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
I've had some Hed Jets for a very long time - maybe 15 years. Alloy rim with carbon faring like the Cosmics. Again these were tubulars and I used them for TT's of 10 and 25 miles. Any serious training then it was the clinchers. The wheels now hang unused.

For all round wheels, you want light, tough and low profile. Depends upon where you live, but I wouldn't want to be riding deep rims up and around the Peaks in the wind.
 
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