Cant get rid of play in Steerer

[cycle2run]

Hi Guys

Got carbon steerer, bung in (Tightened to 5NM), Spacers on, stem on, tighten down topcap but cant get rid of a tiny bit of movement in the forks. If i tighten the top cap anymore before tightening stem then the steering goes really stiff

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

 

[raleighnut]

Knackered bearings?

 

[accountantpete]

As above - but also if you have a carbon steerer check for wear around the compression ring area.

 

[Dayvo]

Sounds like this might help, although you might have already tried it.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1P4dYsxazTU

 

[alecstilleyedye]

have you replaced anything? i bought a deda elementi stem cap to replace the itm one that didn't match the deda bars and stem, and the end result was that i needed another 5mm spacer under the cap as the forks rocked just as you described…

 

[boydj]

Sounds like the top cap may be tightening onto the top of the steerer, rather then a spacer or the stem. Some top caps are slightly 'domed' on the bottom and this can happen even though it looks like the top of the steerer is below the top of the stem or the top spacer.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I'm going with knackered bearings, my Giant had the same issue, could never get it adjusted properly however much I tried. Probably pitted races.

 

[gbb]

I had a problem on my then new Bianchi, full carbon forks. Several attempts failed to get it right so I took it back.
No problem he said, there's a knack with these. Undid the stem, lifted the front wheel, bounced it firmly on the floor, tightened top cap, tightened stem....job done, never to be a problem again.
I suspect the bung wasnt seated quite right and just needed a little force.

 

[Elybazza61]

Is the expander set correctly? It should be tightened a bit so you can gently push it in then torque it up(prob more than you think;my Ridley has it's expander torqued to 10nm although Ridley states 14nm as its max;,the stem should then drop on with a spacer on top(my LBS recommended 10mm for rigidity),the top cap is then torqued to 3nm and the stem bolts tightened to their correct torque evenly so the stem grips the steerer evenly.

I had my forks knocking after re-building it a few days ago (and last year the steering was coming 'loose' pretty often) but after doing the above it was perfect yesterday.

Oh and no carbon paste should be needed.

Probably best to find out the correct torque settings for your bike/forks.

 

[Ian H]

Sounds like the top cap may be tightening onto the top of the steerer, rather then a spacer or the stem. Some top caps are slightly 'domed' on the bottom and this can happen even though it looks like the top of the steerer is below the top of the stem or the top spacer.

Tighten the top cap, loosen the stem, and see if the stem then feels loose or very easy to turn. You might even be able to lift it a fraction. If so a thin spacer under the topcap should cure it.

 

[Svendo]

From my own experience with a Cannondale bung, the top cap was bottoming out on the bung before I had enough preload on the bearings. Disassembled, moved the bung down a bit and now fine.
As I've said elsewhere my old frame had slightly wider sockets for the bearing and the only way I could get rid of the last bit of play I was to put a layer of parcel tape round the vertical face of the top bearing. The original bearing were ever so slightly larger in diameter. Normally that's a French thing, but this was a German Storck and Acris bearings. There is apparently a proper was of shimming bearings with bits of brass I think, related by @Yellow Saddle

 

[Kevoffthetee]

I had a problem with I removed a spacer, put it back in and hey presto, problem gone