Cannot remove freehub to replace it

[Custom24]

Hi

I have a Specialized 2012 (or maybe 2011, not sure) Hardrock disc.


Freehub removal was going swimmingly until the bit where I need to insert the 10mm hex key and remove the actual freehub body.


The problem is that the key doesn't fit. Not sure if I need to insert a hex key from the other side (none of the ones I have fit), or if I need to use a splined key - there are what look like splines in the freehub body.


I don't know the model of freehub on there - the docs that came with the bike say Shimano FH-RM30-8, and that's what I have to replace it with, but I think that's because the docs are for a Shimano rear drive system as a whole, rather than the individual components which were used to build my bike. And the Spez website doesn't say what model of freehub is used.


So I'm stuck...


Thanks for any suggestions.

Mark

 

[accountantpete]

Many bikes come with cheap "no-name" hubs and I'm pretty sure yours is one of them.

That being so I have seen some that need a 12mm hex key.

This is usually reached from the freehub side.

I'm not sure why you would want to remove the freehub body - the Shimano replacement will not fit. You need to fit an entire new hub.

 

[Custom24]

That's what I was afraid of - the docs that came with the bike were misleading. I'm a total newbie when it comes to bike maintenance.

Could I not just get the correct freehub if the Shimano one doesn't fit?

Also, and this is a stupid question, the "entire hub" is the bit the spokes go into, right? In other words it means rebuilding the wheel?

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

If you had a FH-RM30 a 10mm hex key would have fit and worked from the drive side. If the hub does not have any label indicating it is a Shimano hub then while certain Spesh freehubs are available you really are on your own as to whether any is compatible - there is literally no documentation around that can help.

Don't know why you want to remove the freehub, but if it is shot and difficult / impossible to replace then given it is a low cost wheel it might actually be no less economical to replace the wheel than rebuilding the wheel with a new / different hub when you factor in the cost of hub, labour and perhaps even new spokes dependent on the new hub's dimension.

 

[accountantpete]

Could I not just get the correct freehub if the Shimano one doesn't fit?

Also, and this is a stupid question, the "entire hub" is the bit the spokes go into, right? In other words it means rebuilding the wheel?

These hubs are made in China - they don't bother with spares I'm afraid.

Yes - the part consists of a hub (where the spokes attach) and a freehub - which the cassette goes onto.

What is the problem with the existing hub?

 

[mickle]

Try contacting a Spez dealer? Or is that too frickin obvs?

 

[Custom24]

Thanks all.

Problem with existing hub is no drive - freehub spins.

Might be covered under warranty, but was happy just to ignore that hassle and upgrade or replace if possible, but it looks like that's not possible.

Have spoken to bike shop where purchased this morning and new freehub is £25 (for the same crappy one presumably). That's a bit painful as the presumably better Shimano one was half that.

My priorities are (1) get the bike running again (2) try to fix it myself so that I learn how to avoid the problem in the future, or at least be confident that I can fix it again without any hassle if it does happen again. Hopefully this explains where I'm coming from.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Have spoken to bike shop where purchased this morning and new freehub is £25 (for the same crappy one presumably). That's a bit painful as the presumably better Shimano one was half that.

My priorities are (1) get the bike running again (2) try to fix it myself so that I learn how to avoid the problem in the future, or at least be confident that I can fix it again without any hassle if it does happen again. Hopefully this explains where I'm coming from.

IME £25 is the going rate if indeed available for Spesh freehubs. Shimano freehubs like these are exceptionally well built and sealed. If I were you I would buy a new wheel if it can't be replaced under warranty.

 

[02GF74]

assuming the wheel is off the original bike, it cannot be more than 2 years old. unless the previous owner was lance armstrong and the bike used to cycle away from the press, it should not have done a huge mileage.

so its quite strange that you are having a problem, even cheapo hubs on BSOs sold by Argos last longer.

have you bee riding in muddy conditions or cleaning bike with a jet wash? could it be that the grease in the freehub has been washed away or hardened, or even in the cold weahter frozen, so that the pawls have seized?

First step is to remove the freehub and take a peek inside - spraying WD40 to clean the ratchet mechanism and regreasing may be all that is needed - easier said than doen if you cannot remove the f/hub.

 

[Custom24]

Mileage - I bought the bike new and I've probably done 1500-2000 miles on it in 10 months.

Muddy - yes, most of the time.
Jet wash - a bit. I've been using a hose on the cassette, but tried not to get too much pressure in there. However, rusty water was coming out of it after washing.
Frozen - yes. The problem happened when it was really cold, but it had been playing up a bit before that (chain tangling a bit sometimes).

I was coming around to the idea of just buying a new and better pre-built wheel (no idea what specifications are involved, though), but I might give your idea a go.

Thanks

 

[mickle]

Jet wash = hub death.

 

[02GF74]

Mileage - I bought the bike new and I've probably done 1500-2000 miles on it in 10 months.

Jet wash - a bit. I've been using a hose on the cassette, but tried not to get too much pressure in there. However, rusty water was coming out of it after washing.

appears you killed it, FREEHUB MURDERER!!!!!!

 

[Custom24]

My commute is very muddy (it's off road mainly). Originally, I wasn't washing my bike every day, but decided that I'd just gently hose it down (not a pressure washer, just a regular hose) as I don't have the time to wash it properly each night when I get in. Build up of mud caused me to break a rear derailleur on it a while ago (jockey wheels got caught in mud buildup, came over the top and snapped the gear hangar) so it appears with bikes that you're damned if you do and damned if you don't.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

... it appears with bikes that you're damned if you do and damned if you don't.

Perhaps a hub geared bike (or in the old days bikes with hub gears and/or enclosed chain guard, sigh...) would have faired better; although other issues do arise. Another way is to just accepting changing chain/mech/hubs/bbs more regularly as part of the cost of commuting in those conditions.