Cannondale Synapse 105 Carbon Disc 2016

[richdim]

I've had my Synapse for about 6 weeks now. Bought from Evans cycles. It's a great ride but I am definitely finding some teething problems. I was wondering if anyone has similar issues or can advise on what to do.
for spec - https://www.evanscycles.com/cannondale-synapse-carbon-105-5-disc-2016-road-bike-EV239406

1. Disc brakes - these always seem to rub, no matter what I do resetting them. I get them right, ride for a bit and then they start rubbing. In particular, at the bottom of steep hills after lots of braking they rub a lot until they cool down. I think this is because the disc warps when hot but it's not what you want at the bottom of a descent when you are they faced with a steep climb. On occasions they also "shudder". I find myself wishing I had callipers some times.
2. Headset - lots of creaking from this. I have had looked at by Evans and it is better but still creaky
3. Right pedal crank - clicks and clunks when I put the power down. I've had this stripped down but it's still happening
4. Internalised cables - on certain surfaces you can hear them vibrating in the frame which is just a bit annoying.

I am new to this forum but I would be very grateful if anyone has any advice or had had similar experiences with this bike or any other

Thanks

Rich

 

[Freds Dad]

My advice. Take it back to Evans.

 

[rb58]

Take it back to Evans. I have a Synapse Disc (Di2) and have had none of those problems. Although the bike is in the LBS at the moment as the rear derailleur departed company with the frame on Friday night to the tune of expensive parts trashing themselves. Gear hanger 'safety feature' apparently and I should have the bike back by Wednesday.

 

[Racing roadkill]

Firstly Welcome. As for your questions.

1. The disc brakes are notorious for doing this on the Synapse. Cannondale don't seem to care how many people complain. They haven't got an answer. I had a suggestion, it wasn't well received.
2. The internal components in the headset on the Synapse are (in my opinion) not
well suited to the shape, or length of the head tube. Again, I gave them some feedback, I don't think they liked it.
3. The cranks they supply as standard ( IMHO ) wouldn't look out of place on a 20 quid BSO rescued from a skip. The pedals are probably not the issue. Look on EBay or similar for cranks of a better quality ( possibly from a 'higher spec' Cannondale, that someone is stripping down).

4. The standard internal routers are notoriously noisy on the Synapse. You can damp the noise, by fitting thicker, higher grade sheaths. That's not an expensive or tricky fix, any decent bike shop should be able to sort that out.

Anyway, nothing in your list is that difficult to sort out, it's just irritating that the bikes aren't sorted from the off..

 

[richdim]

Firstly Welcome. As for your questions.

1. The disc brakes are notorious for doing this on the Synapse. Cannondale don't seem to care how many people complain. They haven't got an answer. I had a suggestion, it wasn't well received.
2. The internal components in the headset on the Synapse are (in my opinion) not
well suited to the shape, or length of the head tube. Again, I gave them some feedback, I don't think they liked it.
3. The cranks they supply as standard ( IMHO ) wouldn't look out of place on a 20 quid BSO rescued from a skip. The pedals are probably not the issue. Look on EBay or similar for cranks of a better quality ( possibly from a 'higher spec' Cannondale, that someone is stripping down).

4. The standard internal routers are notoriously noisy on the Synapse. You can damp the noise, by fitting thicker, higher grade sheaths. That's not an expensive or tricky fix, any decent bike shop should be able to sort that out.

Anyway, nothing in your list is that difficult to sort out, it's just irritating that the bikes aren't sorted from the off..

Thanks for your advice. What was your suggestion re: point 1?

 

[rusty bearing]

Dont know about the rest but the brakes sound like a classic case of being overfilled, more common than you might expect. When fluid hearts it expands and while nearly all systems are now 'open' they only have limited room for this expansion. When that room is taken up the pads are pushed closer to the rotors and they're close to start with. Try letting a small amount of the brake fluid out then push the pads right back before squeezing the lever a few times to reset them.

 

[bonsaibilly]

Welcome to the world of amazing and well-marked technological innovations that solve problems that didn't exist and create new ones themselves.

Bb

 

[SpokeyDokey]

Welcome to the world of amazing and well-marked technological innovations that solve problems that didn't exist and create new ones themselves.

Bb

I'm ok with discs (they're hardly new though) but internal cable rattles would do my head in.

I have no idea why internal routing is needed. The new 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit (steel) is due soon and all the cables (it has hydraulic discs) are on the outside of the tubes which seems pretty darn sensible to me. I guess the reason for them being on the outside is because the tubes are narrower than ally/carbon and there is not enough room for a decent routing of 3 lines? I could well be wrong about this though if anyone wants to clarify.

 

[Custom24]

I haven't the same bike...

1. Discs. What have you tried to cure it? Have you checked if the rotors are true? Eyeball the gap between the rotors and the pads inside the calliper as you spin the wheel slowly. If it is moving back and forth, then the disc is warped. You can true it back yourself using a clean adjustable wrench, start gently.

4. Internal cables. If you pull/push gently on the cable where it enters the frame, does it move? I was able to solve your problem on my bike by simply pushing a bit more cable inside the frame, or pulling a bit more out, I can't remember which. Less than 1cm anyway in either case.

 

[Mrs M]

Hello
Please take it back to Evans

 

[Andrew_P]

1. Brakes, what have you tried? On my Hydro disc brake bike I have bolt through axle on the front which great on the rear if I have to drop the rear wheel out 9 out 10 I will have to loosen the caliper get someone to pull the brake on and then tighten it again this always fixes minor rubs for me.
2. Have you had a look at the headset or tried taking it apart and putting it all back together?
3. Sounds like it might be the bottom bracket. If it is get a decent one and get Evans to fit FOC. Mine went on my SuperSix within 120 miles bought a SRAM one and got them to add grease been fine for 8k
4. Can't help thankfully all mine are on the outside except the rear brake.

Pity you are at 6 weeks Evans do a no quibble 30 day exchange. Ultimately the best advice is take it back!

 

[PaulSB]

Take it back and ask for a replacement or money back. If you paid by credit card and Evans won't help open a dispute with your CC provider.

 

[Deleted member 22722]

I purchased a Synapse Di2 from my LBS in March. I experienced clicking from the bottom bracket area and a really creaky headset like yourself. Once I'd stripped the Synapse down I realised that Cannondale use hardly any grease (if any at all) when putting their bikes together. As soon as I applied a liberal amount of grease to the headset and bottom bracket my creaks and clicks disappeared.

Around the same time I built up a CAAD 10 frame that I'd purchased from Evans. This was supplied with the same BB and headset as the Synapse. However, because I'd properly greased both parts at the point of install I've had zero problems.

I've had no problems with my disc brakes but these are the hydraulic variety so may be different to yours. I also don't seem to have a problem with the internal cabling being noisy.