Can the Vanmoof No.5 OTT be fitted with an Alfine hub?
- Thread starter gj1972
- Start date
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GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
Email Vanmoof, they will tell you the width of the rear triangle. They are lovely people and very happy to help. I deal with them because they are Strida distributors for Europe and I have an old Strida.
Howard
Senior Member
It would require a spacing of 135mm - about as wide as they come. You may get away with 132 - but as the frame is Alu it's probably not a good idea to stretch it.
Without having access to the tech specs of the frame, I would say "doubtful", unless for some reason they spec it out for compatibility with MTB hubs.
If it turns out the spacing is less than 135 your options are:
1) reduce the width of the Alfine hub - which is possible, but Shimano have made sure it's a huge pain in the ass to do so. Custom lock nut machining anyone?
2) go with a Nexus Red Band - which will probably suit your needs just fine anyway - recommended.
HTH
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Ask Vanmoof - email address here: http://www.cyclorama.net/viewExhibitor.php?id=239
GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
Let me quote Chris Juden, Technical Officer of the CTC at you...
Naah, like you say, its only 5mm. Whilst aluminium isn't steel, the alloys they make bikes out of can nevertheless stand just as much bending into shape - so long as you don't repeat the process. How else do you suppose they make it into tubes in the first place, and do that hydroforming thing, and squirt it out of extrusion dies then bend it in circles to make rims?
The one thing aluminium really doesn't tolerate at all well is being flexed back and forth a little way, lots and lots and lots of times. Or a long way fewer times. Five mm is a little way and the number of times you'll be putting a wheel out and in again isn't lots. No worries. The frame will break before a steel one would, but not because you've eased a slightly wider wheel in there.
I'd even venture to cold set an ally frame. The tiny amount of elongation involved must be well within the material specification and it'll be a one-off process. Likewise ally gear hangers can be straightened, just the once and if not bent too much, or maybe twice if bent even less. It's a matter of degree, and cold-setting by 5mm is no big deal.
My bold of course. I've done it. 7.5mm either side of the center line is nowt. Nothing broke. Aluminium alloy is not glass.
Naah, like you say, its only 5mm. Whilst aluminium isn't steel, the alloys they make bikes out of can nevertheless stand just as much bending into shape - so long as you don't repeat the process. How else do you suppose they make it into tubes in the first place, and do that hydroforming thing, and squirt it out of extrusion dies then bend it in circles to make rims?
The one thing aluminium really doesn't tolerate at all well is being flexed back and forth a little way, lots and lots and lots of times. Or a long way fewer times. Five mm is a little way and the number of times you'll be putting a wheel out and in again isn't lots. No worries. The frame will break before a steel one would, but not because you've eased a slightly wider wheel in there.
I'd even venture to cold set an ally frame. The tiny amount of elongation involved must be well within the material specification and it'll be a one-off process. Likewise ally gear hangers can be straightened, just the once and if not bent too much, or maybe twice if bent even less. It's a matter of degree, and cold-setting by 5mm is no big deal.
My bold of course. I've done it. 7.5mm either side of the center line is nowt. Nothing broke. Aluminium alloy is not glass.
Howard
Senior Member
Yes. You could force it in. But why bother potentially voiding your warranty and making it a pain in the ass every time you get a puncture? The nexus red band will do just fine - it has most of the Alfine goodies in it - and you get to keep the coaster brake.
OP: forgot to mention in my previous post that Afline is disc specific - you'd have to fit an alternate rear brake if you want to use it. It looks like the OTT has a mount for a canti or v brake, but again you'll need to ask Vanmoof.
If you really want an alfine bike then consider a charge mixer?On sale from Wiggle, looks just as good, better bits, and a touch more flexible than the OTT.
OP: forgot to mention in my previous post that Afline is disc specific - you'd have to fit an alternate rear brake if you want to use it. It looks like the OTT has a mount for a canti or v brake, but again you'll need to ask Vanmoof.
If you really want an alfine bike then consider a charge mixer?On sale from Wiggle, looks just as good, better bits, and a touch more flexible than the OTT.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Adjusting the rear triangle to accommodate a greater OLND is more complex than simply cranking your rear end open. The first hurdle is ensuring that each side is bent to the same degree. If one side is bent more than the other the wheels will end up out of alignment and the bike will crab. Outside of a workshop equipped with a frame jig it's really difficult to do. I made this mistake with my africa bike by being a slacker. It annoys the f out of me every time I ride it... More of an issue is the difficulty of ensuring that the dropouts are parallel after spreading the rear end. Failing to do so will put enormous pressure on the rear axle, something you want to avoid for any decent hub but certain painful premature death for an internal gear hub.
And as you attempt to straighten the rear dropouts how do you decide where the new bend goes? You grab the dropout somehow or other - dropout tool, adjustable spanner - and exert some pressure. How much overbend do you have to put in to get it to settle at the correct angle? More importantly - where exactly does the bend occur? and how do you control it? In the dropout itself? Because how can you be sure that you haven't transferred your bend to the tubes? Is it OK to bend the aluminum tubes of your seat and chain stays?
Manufacturer's warranty probably says no.
Especially since Vanmoofs are .. ahem ... not made from the highest grade of aluminum available.
And as you attempt to straighten the rear dropouts how do you decide where the new bend goes? You grab the dropout somehow or other - dropout tool, adjustable spanner - and exert some pressure. How much overbend do you have to put in to get it to settle at the correct angle? More importantly - where exactly does the bend occur? and how do you control it? In the dropout itself? Because how can you be sure that you haven't transferred your bend to the tubes? Is it OK to bend the aluminum tubes of your seat and chain stays?
Manufacturer's warranty probably says no.
Especially since Vanmoofs are .. ahem ... not made from the highest grade of aluminum available.
GrumpyGregry
Here for rides.
Some bugger bent them in the factory didn't they?
The point about warranty is well made though.
mickle
innit
- Location
- 53.933606, -1.076131
Yup. The thing is they bent them with a pipe bender which supports the tube, either with a former or a mandrel. Then (depending on the material used) they weld them in to a frame and then run the whole thing through a heat treating process.
It might be perfectly possible to spread the rear end of an aluminum frame and keep it straight and it may be possible to straighten the drop outs of an aluminum frame without causing permanent damage to the drop-outs or tubes.
I'm just saying I wouldn't do it to any frame of mine - the very idea gives me the he-be-gee-bees.
MacB
Lover of things that come in 3's
- Location
- Farnborough, Hampshire
if you go to Hubstripping you'll find details from people that have respaced Alfine hubs, again would bugger your warranty but it might be better than messing with the frame. Especially when the frame in question is such a thing of beauty 
Howard
Senior Member
if you go to Hubstripping you'll find details from people that have respaced Alfine hubs, again would bugger your warranty but it might be better than messing with the frame. Especially when the frame in question is such a thing of beauty
I spent a lot of time researching this. My conclusion was, that unless you really, really want to run discs, and are planning on spending a lot of time off-road, you are better off sticking with the Red Band. Or bending your (steel) frame. Reducing the Alfine OLN is doable, but requires some exotic spare parts and a dremel grinder. And some heavy redishing.There's a good thread on this here.
