Can I Drill New Alloy Quill Stem For Brake Stop/Hanger?

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woodbine

Senior Member
Location
Bristol, UK
My original quill stem on my British Eagle MTB is too short so I want to replace it with a new, longer Nitto MT-10 quill. The new stem is forged and heat treated aluminium. Will it be ok for me to drill one small diameter hole through the extension with a larger hole at the top of the first hole to accommodate the cable end/ferule? Or is there another option. I have considered a clamp on hanger to go on the stem, but am struggling to find something suitable for the 22.2mm stem. Thanks for any advice.

New stem -

https://www.hubjub.co.uk/nitto-mt-10-10-cm-dirt-drop-quill-stem-4594-p.asp

Pictures are the original stem/brake set up.

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rogerzilla

Legendary Member
I really wouldn't. There are other solutions. A headset hanger (Dia-Compe) is the most obvious. I might even have one spare.
 
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woodbine

woodbine

Senior Member
Location
Bristol, UK
Thanks for your reply, Roger. If I have to use a seperate hanger instead of drilling, I think a clamp on headset hanger that clamps to the stem may be easier for me. I'm not sure if my set up is suitable for one that goes under the headset nut - maybe you or someone else can tell from my photos?

All of the clamp on hangers seem to be for 25.4mm stems. As my stem is 22.2mm, can I use a 22.2 to 25.4mm handlebar shim to fix the hanger to my stem?
 
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Ian H

Ancient randonneur
I drilled and tapped a quill stem for that purpose. Standard adjuster in the top. Worked perfectly. I think I still have it somewhere.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
This goes under your headset locknut (it can replace the locktab washer) and is the best solution. Nitto stuff is nice, but not overbuilt. I wouldn't drill it (and ride it afterwards!).
 

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tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
fit an up hanger off the fork, gives you a shorter cable and eliminates fork judder under braking
View attachment 595041
That's the way to go for canto brakes. They work much smoother and more positive.

The other issue with the headset mounted hanger is that it's possible you won't have enough spare threads to fit it.
 
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woodbine

woodbine

Senior Member
Location
Bristol, UK
fit an up hanger off the fork, gives you a shorter cable and eliminates fork judder under braking
View attachment 595041

Thanks to everyone who has replied with advice. Really appreciated.

T4tomo >>> I have two small holes under the crown bearing where the forks split. Are these likely to fit the bolt supplied with the up hanger, or will I need to enlarge them?
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Thanks to everyone who has replied with advice. Really appreciated.

T4tomo >>> I have two small holes under the crown bearing where the forks split. Are these likely to fit the bolt supplied with the up hanger, or will I need to enlarge them?
yes it should fit, but the supplied bolt I think has one of those nuts that goes over the threads along way and needs a M8 recess hole in the back, so I, after chatting with spa cycles, just used a regular M6 or m5 bolt, and non slip nut that fitted the hole in my forks to fit the uphanger, better option than drilling out the fork.

I think the power hangers are quite good, but very fiddly to get set up correctly, so a uphanger works go with that.
 
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woodbine

woodbine

Senior Member
Location
Bristol, UK
yes it should fit, but the supplied bolt I think has one of those nuts that goes over the threads along way and needs a M8 recess hole in the back, so I, after chatting with spa cycles, just used a regular M6 or m5 bolt, and non slip nut that fitted the hole in my forks to fit the uphanger, better option than drilling out the fork.

I think the power hangers are quite good, but very fiddly to get set up correctly, so a uphanger works go with that.

OK, thanks again T4tomo. Will try a fork crown up hanger. Like the look of the Dia Compe version as it has an extra stability bracket to go under crown. Also a cable catcher and the bolt doesn't have any sleeved nuts that would require drilling the back hole.

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