Campagnolo Centaur bracket installation

[AndyRM]

After a quick search, I read through this thread:

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/removing-bottom-bracket-on-a-campagnolo-centaur.69406/

Which hasn't quite answered my question. I think. Maybe. Argh!

What do I need to use to re-install this?! It came off the bike which I'm attempting to get it back on.

 

[AndyRM]

My fury may have clouded my Googling ability.

http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-BBT-4

That what I'm after?

 

[accountantpete]

Yes - that's a AC-H style BB you have and that is the correct tool.

 

[AndyRM]

Yes - that's a AC-H style BB you have and that is the correct tool.

Cheers fella!

On a vaguely related note, if you know, do I really need to spend £100 on a chain tool for a 10 speed Centaur chain?

This appears to be a cheaper alternative: http://www.parktool.com/product/master-chain-tool-ct-4-2

If it wasn't obvious, I got a bit of cash towards finishing off my bike!

 

[smokeysmoo]

do I really need to spend £100 on a chain tool for a 10 speed Centaur chain?

Nope. I used my old basic chain tool when I built a bike with Veloce earlier this year.

I now have one of THESE, but any chain tool will do.

FWIW I'd fit a KMC X10 chain instead, and flog the Campag one on fleabay.

 

[AndyRM]

Nope. I used my old basic chain tool when I built a bike with Veloce earlier this year.

I now have one of THESE, but any chain tool will do.

FWIW I'd fit a KMC X10 chain instead, and flog the Campag one on fleabay.

Thankyou! I'll be able to spend my money on a fork now. Was getting a little despondent when I thought about spending money on a tool instead of something exciting!

Are KMC chains better than Campag ones? I wanted a totally Campag build (took bits off my crashed bike), but if I'd be better off with a different chain I'm not precious about it.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Are KMC chains better than Campag ones?

I don't know if they are better, but the KMC ones, (and SRAM too), are just highly regarded as excellent quality and also excellent VFM.

Plus they come with the quick link as well, so apart from initial chain length adjustment you don't even need a tool to remove them.

I've used Shimano and Campag drivetrains with matching chains, but I just stick Shimano and KMC now for ease of maintenance.

Remember, if you stick with the Campag chain, and you connect it with the standard pin, if you ever split the chain for any reason, NEVER re-connect any 10 speed chain by pressing the pin back in, it will snap on you.

Either re-connect with a QUICK LINK, or use a specific 10 speed connecting PIN

 

[AndyRM]

I don't know if they are better, but the KMC ones, (and SRAM too), are just highly regarded as excellent quality and also excellent VFM.

Plus they come with the quick link as well, so apart from initial chain length adjustment you don't even need a tool to remove them.

I've used Shimano and Campag drivetrains with matching chains, but I just stick Shimano and KMC now for ease of maintenance.

Remember, if you stick with the Campag chain, and you connect it with the standard pin, if you ever split the chain for any reason, NEVER re-connect any 10 speed chain by pressing the pin back in, it will snap on you.

Either re-connect with a QUICK LINK, or use a specific 10 speed connecting PIN

Thanks for the info. Very much appreciated!

New to the world of building my own bike so definitely need the advice. Enjoy the rest of your boxing day/holidays!

 

[smokeysmoo]

Does the Centaur chainset use the Campag Power Torque fitting?

I suspect it does, and if so you will need a special tool to remove it if/when the need arises.

This is what drove me back to Shimano as their BB's are very, very easy to strip down.

The Campag tool is ££££££'s, and even a bike specific extractor TOOL is expensive. Parktools make THIS one, but it's still a lot to pay for the limited use it will get.

I got around it by using an automotive gear puller, but it's nigh on impossible to do it this way without marking the crankarm!

The other option of course is your LBS, although mine didn't have the right tool when I wanted them to split it for me!

It's just ridiculous that they make it this way, IMO eveything on a bike should be able to be fettled by the rider, (experience permitting), with reasonably inexpensive tools.

 

[AndyRM]

I don't think so/I hope not...

Other than my recent frustrations I've been able to work with standard tools.

Fully agree with you that it should be easy to build and maintain bikes. I kind of assumed it would have been with the basic toolkit I bought. I have been a fool!

 

[smokeysmoo]

Other than my recent frustrations I've been able to work with standard tools

You fit Power Torque cranks as easily as any othereasily, it's just the removal that can be a nightmare without the right tool.

 

[AndyRM]

Apologies for the necromancy but I didn't see the point in starting a new thread.

Having a bit of difficulty getting the cups on. They seem to stick when they're hardly into the frame, and I don't want to force the issue and strip the threads. Am I being overly cautious? I have greased cup and frame lightly.

Again, any advice much appreciated.

 

[AndyRM]

Baws. Ignore me. I was turning the wrong way. I'll remember the clockwise/counter clockwise sides one day!!!

 

[AndyRM]

My early evening enthusiasm from last night has been dented. Didn't have enough time to finish due to making dinner for a tired wife and discovered that while I can get the non-drive side on with no issues, the drive side refuses to screw in.

Initial thought is that I'm trying to put them on the wrong sides? One of the cups is completely smooth on the outside, while the other is indented. Currently have the indented one on the non-drive side, attempting to put the smooth on the drive.

Have I got them the wrong way around? Driving me mental(er)!