cable changing ?
- Thread starter jim55
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
IIRC you only need to remove the cover to replace the gear cables. Pull the brake lever hard and you should see where the brake is connected - possibly only visible from underneath.
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Pull the lever and you will see the end ferrule (it a small circle at the end of the wire) in a small metal bit that attaches to the brake lever on a pivot remove it, assuming you have cut the cap of the other end and released the allen key bolt at the v brakes. Its a the reverse for installing the new cable. Theres a slot in the pivot/ shifter housing to aid installation removal.
Make sure tension is off the cable, pull the lever a bit further than in the picture, and you should be able to unhook it and remove it from the front. When I pulled the lever with the cable slack it actually came out itself when I pushed the lever back. That round bit in the picture is the hole where the metal ferrule should sit. Your's has rotated a bit meaning it isn't sitting properly - mine does that as well. Pulling the lever a bit further allows that metal bit to swing down to remove the cable. I've no idea what the red plastic is - I don't have one of them.
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Have you sorted it Jim, if not the brake cable end it just in that wee metal cage that pivots of the lever just below those red plastic things. If youve released the cable tension (removed the end cap and released the allen key screw holding the brake cable at the vbrake arms) you should be able squeeze the brake a little further and move the cage to a position you can pull it out.
RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
The red tab is a switch that allows the lever to pull the right amount of cable for different brake types (V vs Canti/road).
The first thing to do is to unhook noodle at V brake or loosen quick release if caliper brake. The second step is to wind the cable adjuster and its stop at the lever right in, and then wind them back out just enough to line up their slots with the slot at the lever housing (so that the cable can slip right out). The third step is to pull the lever back enough to slip the end barrel off its "cage" and maneuver the cable off the lever.
The first thing to do is to unhook noodle at V brake or loosen quick release if caliper brake. The second step is to wind the cable adjuster and its stop at the lever right in, and then wind them back out just enough to line up their slots with the slot at the lever housing (so that the cable can slip right out). The third step is to pull the lever back enough to slip the end barrel off its "cage" and maneuver the cable off the lever.
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
Clever, I never realised there was such a thing
yeah ,,itl do for now ,,i think the culprit is the 90 degree bend through a metal sleeve just before the brake itself ,,il have to replace the cable at some point ,,the outer seems attached to the metal sleeve somehow ,,does anybodt know if u can change these things ,,i had teflon lined cables yrs ago on my bmx and they were really smooth ,,can u still get this kinda thing ?
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
Teflon coated cable is still around. My LBS sold it until recently, but the coating flakes off the metal too easily.
As for getting the cable out: On the pic the bit that i've cross-hatched in blue is the "cage" referred to above.
the bit I've coloured red is the "barrel" - which you are going to need to rotate a bit.
In the back of the cage is a slot for the wire to pass through when the barrel is lined up with the cage.
As RAFN says you need to have the cable slack and the barrel adjuster slots lined up with the cable slot on the back of the cage.
Does that help?
As for getting the cable out: On the pic the bit that i've cross-hatched in blue is the "cage" referred to above.
the bit I've coloured red is the "barrel" - which you are going to need to rotate a bit.
In the back of the cage is a slot for the wire to pass through when the barrel is lined up with the cage.
As RAFN says you need to have the cable slack and the barrel adjuster slots lined up with the cable slot on the back of the cage.
Does that help?
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
Any stainless steel cable will do - just make sure you get one with a barrel end (not the one with a "pear" shaped end)
Some are "universal" with one of each type of end - you cut off whichever is not needed.
Some are "universal" with one of each type of end - you cut off whichever is not needed.
HLaB
Marie Attoinette Fan
They are much of a muchness IME.yeah il have a go at it ,when i have another to replace it with ,,i prob wasnt pulling the lever back far enough ,,any reccs for a replacement cable or are they all the same
