Brooks Team Pro v Colt

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sveno

Active Member
Location
Lugdunum France
Hello there,

I am thinking of replacing the Selle Italia Turbo on my 1980 Raleigh Record Ace (TI Raleigh team strip), as it starts hurting after 30 miles. I never had this with a Brooks (once broken in), but I am not sure about which one to pick.

The most obvious choice would be a Team Pro, with its many proven qualities.

Yet, I quite like the shape of the Colt, and besides the look the sloping nose and the high flanks could come handy, as I am planning to use this bike for hilly rides.

Which one would you pick?

Cheers,

Sven
 

ACS

Legendary Member
Would be the Team Pro for me in Tan with matching handlebar tape.
 
OP
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sveno

sveno

Active Member
Location
Lugdunum France
Thanks. The bike has white Benotto tape, and the frame is orangish-red. That's why I thought of a black saddle.
So, pro 1 colt 0
 

gwhite

Über Member
The Colt and the Pro are quite different. The Colt (historically) is heavier and uses a heavier butt of leather. You will find that the Colt will take far longer to break-in opposed to the Pro and in my experience many are sold on because users never succeed in doing so. However it will last forever if care is taken .
 
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sveno

sveno

Active Member
Location
Lugdunum France
Good point. I remember having come across an 80s Colt with the inscription "pre-softened". Would you say that this was purely psychological eg to ease potential buyers' minds, or was there really something to it?
 

bikefettler

New Member
I`ve tried b17 , conquest , b17 narrow , swift and team pro and I settled on the team pro but and its a big but it all depends on your sit bones and style of riding only way is to maybe try both to see which fits better at an obliging lbs if you can find one local to you,
 

Garz

Squat Member
Location
Down
I am still breaking in my B17 special, it has been an improvement over the rolls it replaced. A hard thing to rule out is if your behind is not used to the mileage and needs toughening up.

As I have never used a brooks before I dont know how long or rough mileage it takes to get them broken in but I do hope it's sooner rather than later.

Slightly OT, do people get sore perennial areas after a certain mileage or consecutive rides?
 

gwhite

Über Member
Good point. I remember having come across an 80s Colt with the inscription "pre-softened". Would you say that this was purely psychological eg to ease potential buyers' minds, or was there really something to it?
[/quote

I believe that they have to do some type of conditioning re the Pre-softening but it still remains hard as far as I'm concerned.
Before I use any new leather saddle I wet the underside of the area used by my sit- bones and then when soft (3 mins), press down with my thumb in the positions taken by my sit-bones. The leather is now so pliable that the depressions are easily made. Leave overnight and the leather is as hard as before but now have the depressions which would normally cost some time and discomfort.

You can leave it at that, but I prefer to give the underside one coat of leather conditioner (Hydrophane) in my case, which prevents the leather becoming dry and crumbling with age and has a slight softening effect.
 
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sveno

sveno

Active Member
Location
Lugdunum France
Thanks gwhite, that sounds great. How do you determine the shape of the depressions? Do you model them according to another saddle you have alredy broken in?
I usually put one layer of proofide underneath a new saddle to make it waterproof. Any idea if this is compatible with hydrophane?
Cheers!
 

gwhite

Über Member
Thanks gwhite, that sounds great. How do you determine the shape of the depressions? Do you model them according to another saddle you have alredy broken in?
I usually put one layer of proofide underneath a new saddle to make it waterproof. Any idea if this is compatible with hydrophane?
Cheers!

To determine the distance between the depressions, sit with knees raised on a length of corrugated cardboard. Wear thin shorts so as to allow your sit-bones to indent the cardboard. Measure between the indents and transfer this to the saddle. Pressing down on the wet leather, which is now very pliable will create the right shape and you need not press deeply but allow your sit-bones to complete the process. I'd be very reluctant to ride a Colt without doing this as the leather is so thick. Riders with well-covered backsides (such as myself) can experience real difficulties breaking-in saddles while lighter riders with skinny bums may find that progress is rapid.
 
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