Brake calipers... steel vs. aluminium

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I've seen plenty of discussion of the benefits of alloy rims but nothing on the benefits of alloy brake calipers.

My Raleigh Chiltern gents bike has been upgraded with modern alloy rims and new brake pads and although the braking is improved - it still lags behind my other bikes. The bike has steel calipers and I'm wondering whether the point at which my braking force is just starting to flex the caliper is lower than it would be on an equivalent alloy caliper.

Realistically, I'm only considering buying the Dia-Compe versions of the classic Weinmann calipers. I have the Weinmanns on two other older bikes and the braking on those seems better (although it might have as much to do with other aspects of the bike).

Thoughts?
 

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Is it more likely you are comparing single pivot weinmann said with dual pivot modern calipers? I know I have upgraded a few of my vintage steeds with dual pivot and the braking is great. That said I also get great breaking from center pulls as well.
 

Tony Raynor

Need for steeds
Lol just re read your comments. I'd guess your spring is weaker on your children than on the other bikes. This could be due to age or length of caliper. As the caliper gets longer you get more flex in the arm. This translates to lower energy being applied to stop you.
 

midlife

Guru
A lot if it has to do with the drop of the brakes as Tony says. What's the distance between the nut and the rim in a vertical line?

Shaun
 
OP
OP
davidallenxyz

davidallenxyz

Regular
It's a deep drop, about 85mm on the rear and a bit less on the front. If the drop is the biggest issue, I don't expect there is much I can do to improve the braking. Just ride a bit slower (which does suit the bike).
 

paul-kent

Well-Known Member
Location
Tonbridge Kent
I'm still running steel rims and the nasty original calipers and I am quite impressed how well they pull up. Even on tonight's wet ride home they were pretty good, yeah I agree they are not as good a modern devices but as you say suit the type of bicycle
 

tyred

Legendary Member
Location
Ireland
The long reach is the problem. They are always going to flex more and lose efficiency no matter what they are made from but they should be adequate.

Are the cables free and the pivot of the brake move smoothly? Clean any corrosion and put a tiny drop of oil or grease on the point where the spring slides on the arm of the calliper. Also worth taking the arms off the centre bolt and cleaning and greasing the centre pivot and adjust it back up so the arms are tight with no forward/back motion but not tight enough to stick or bind. Raleigh traditionally used a slightly different design from the others to mount the arms on the centre bolt but I'm not sure what they were using by the time the Chiltern came along.

There is a thing called anticipation and riding/driving to the conditions which is sadly lacking from many modern day road users game plan.
 
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