Beginner Cyclist Questions

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LMUR2910

New Member
Hey guys,

First time on the forum and wanna-be cyclist, just poking your minds about a few questions I have about cycling which I have no clue at all about.

I've been wanting to start cycling as a hobby and a way to get fit, as well as cycle to work and home and stuff like that. Only thing that puts me off being a cyclist would be the idea of getting clipped from a truck or something like that or cycling into a wrong lane or something like that, silly I know. But better safe than sorry, right? Just really nervous about cycling with traffic.

My questions would be, how much would a road bike frame take as I'm 16 stone and 183 centimeters (6 ft) and I wouldn't want to break the bike, I've been told they can take up to a 150 kg limit or something like that from a friend who cycles daily.

At the moment, I've been looking at the Halford's Carrera TDF Mens Ltd Road Bike which is £269 at the minute, no idea if linking is allowed at all as I can't see any rule thread but maybe I'm just looking in the wrong area. My spending range isn't that great at the moment that's why I'm looking into that bike as from the reviews I've seen and the pricing, it apparently is a decent bike.

Another question would be can road bikes go on pavements, cycle roads and backtracks, stuff like that or is it just specifically road? (I know, it's a silly question but I need to get confirmation by somebody who actually knows cycling lol)

Another question would be, what gear would be recommended? helmets, lights, cycle jackets, bike locks, etc. As well as the gear guides, I've heard that lower is for ascends, hills etc, whereas high is for speed gaining and descending, just confirmation, and advice?

Thanks for reading, I also apologize if this is Beginner thread 4000 as well. Sorry about the huge amount of questions.
 
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Joffey

Big Dosser
Location
Yorkshire
Hi, welcome to the forum!

I started off at 18.5 stone riding a Carerra Ltd. It was a solid bike and didn't complain once with my weight so if you are around that kinda weight you should be fine. If you are heavier you might want to go for a MTB with road tyres.

Don't worry about lorries etc, it is very rare. Get some confidence o. The quieter roads though before venturing out on to the busy ones.

A road bike can go on cycle paths, tow paths etc, just not really rocky, gravelly places due to the small skinny tyres. Remember to pump your skinny tyres up to 100(ish) psi.

Equipment? Helmet if you want (your choice) - padded gloves, padded shorts (or bib shorts) and a cycling specific Jersey (if budget is low try the muddy fox range at sports direct) - a cheap track pump will be worth buying also. You should get a saddle bag and keep in it a multi-tool, spare tubes, tyre levers and patches in case you get a puncture.

It might be worth looking for a second hand bike if budget low. You could get a second hand Carerra for £140 for example, or get more bike for your buck - maybe a Boardman, Specialzed Allez etc for £300. Just have a good Google of the questions you want to ask and there will be plenty of websites with advice.

And most importantly just ride and enjoy it!!!!

Ask Halfords about your gears, they will explain it all for you.
 

sidevalve

Über Member
Hi - Yes you can be hit by a truck but you can fall over and break your leg putting on your socks or be run over crossing the road too. Keep your eyes open and follow the highway code - I know this sounds dull but it is surprisingly helpful.
Don't worry about the frame it will take more than you and the carrera range are ok bikes at the price [I had a virtuoso and no complaints].
Helmet - up to you, I use one, a lot don't. Can't see any realistic reason for not using one other than stubborn pride however.
Lights - legal requirement at night [and in poor visibility - yep just like a car] otherwise not much use
Lock - depends what you want it to do ie stop the bike 'walking' while you nip in to the shop for a packet of woodbines [joke] when a simple wire loop will do or secure it all day when at work when you can be looking at serious security and padlock and chains costing £50 - £80 [and way too heavy to lug around].
Gears - most bikes have a wide enough spread of gears for all conditions anyhow and once you start riding you'll soon 'get it'.
As for off road I never had much problem using my road bikes on bridleways etc you just have to accept that you MUST keep the speed way down. However sorry to disappoint you [and those who persistently defend this - even on here] you have NO right to cycle on a footpath and yes you are breaking the law in doing so. Arguments such as 'Oh it's ok if I feel threatened by the traffic' are just pathetic cack cooked up by people who fail to see how much ammo they give to the anti cycling brigade. If you really do come to a huge busy roundabout or something you really don't like [or a one way street going the wrong way] then just hop off and walk around it - that is the joy of the bike - you can be a pedestrian at will and nobody minds. It will only add a minute or so to your journey, give your legs a break you get to say hello to people and the stress and hassle of the junction is avoided - win win.
PS - as above I would also look at a second hand - there are lots of bargains out there.
Have fun !!!
 

vickster

Legendary Member
It's not permitted to ride on the pavement, although a roadbike is capable

Get hold of a book called cyclecraft, and refresh your memory of the Highway Code (or read for the first time if not a driver), ride carefully and defensively, remember pedestrians have priority over you. Use lights in low light, clothing with reflective bits in the dark. Helmet is up to you, there are arguments for and against. As someone who has come off at slowish speeds and banged my head I wouldnt go without but that's my choice. One thing, I always wear gloves, more comfortable, warmer coming into autum and protects your palms if you fall

I'd join British cycling, you'll get 10% off at Halfords and chain reaction cycles, and more importantly you'll have access to legal support if you have a non fault accident and 3rd party cover if you are at fault. Costs £33 for ride cover

You won't break the bike but cheaper bikes have really cheap wheels so you may find they need some attention from time to time. Depending on where you are, you might find the gearing doesn't suit your terrain if hilly but that's fairly easy and cheap to resolve if needed

Happy cycling :smile:
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Only thing that puts me off being a cyclist would be the idea of getting clipped from a truck or something like that or cycling into a wrong lane or something like that, silly I know. But better safe than sorry, right? Just really nervous about cycling with traffic.
It's not particularly unsafe (you're more likely to be injured gardening, as Chris Boardman famously pointed out) but I don't find it much fun so when I have the choice, I ride routes that motorists don't use / don't use much. Whether that's realistic depends on where you are, as there are huge variations from Cambridge to Ely, to name two neighbouring cities near opposite ends of the scale IMO.

Another question would be can road bikes go on pavements, cycle roads and backtracks, stuff like that or is it just specifically road?
They can, but don't ride on what's typically called pavements unless they're signed as mixed-use (blue circle with bike and people). Road bikes are usually optimised for roads and speed, but can handle other stuff slowly. The wider the tyres the better - my 32mm (which used to be a common width for old road bike tyres called 27x1¼"). You might find a roadster aka town/city bike is more suitable if you're riding around town in a relaxed manner with occasional speedy spurts across countryside, or a hybrid or MTB better if off-road trails will form much of your riding.

Another question would be, what gear would be recommended? helmets, lights, cycle jackets, bike locks, etc.
I'm a heretic here. I believe in general-purpose active kit rather than cycling-specific. I mostly wear what I wear anyway, stuff that's OK for walking and cycling around. My cycle-specific stuff are goggles (my eyes water in the wind), plus mitts (road rash prevention but not used for that yet) and cycling caps (sun/branch deflection) in summer and rainlegs in winter. Other than that, I wear walker's mittens, beanies and waterproof jackets in winter. I'm dry in moderate rain for a couple of hours. Any longer than that and I'm probably heading home! I do carry a pocket hiking towel in my cycling bag for my face.

That does mean that my saddles are sprung and padded because my underwear isn't, and my pedals are flat with rubber grips because my shoes don't hook on.

As well as the gear guides, I've heard that lower is for ascends, hills etc, whereas high is for speed gaining and descending, just confirmation, and advice?
Basically yes. http://sheldonbrown.com/gear-theory.html

Ask Halfords about your gears, they will explain it all for you.
Hopefully! Halfords are sometimes called "half-odds" because that seems to be the chance of good advice. Sometimes you get a cycling assistant... sometimes you get someone who'd rather be selling car parts.

Helmet - up to you, I use one, a lot don't. Can't see any realistic reason for not using one other than stubborn pride however.
If you really can't, go read https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/why-wouldnt-you-wear-a-helmet.180820/

you have NO right to cycle on a footpath and yes you are breaking the law in doing so
It's not quite that simple but in general, try to avoid doing it.

I'd join British cycling, you'll get 10% off at Halfords and chain reaction cycles, and more importantly you'll have access to legal support if you have a non fault accident and 3rd party cover if you are at fault.
I wouldn't join BC until they stop helping chain stores close down local bike shops and pushing helmets onto charity rides. Most people have 3rd party cover on their home insurance (but check) and everyone can get legal support if you have a non fault accident from places like http://legal.wiggle.co.uk/ - after all, if you're not at fault, they should make money from it.
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Your choice, I'm happy with the service I'm getting from their legal team

LBSs are thriving around here and I wear a helmet anyhow. Having seen lots of wobbly cyclists on Ride London I'm glad to have been wearing one in case of a slow speed knock off! I expect it's the event insurers insisting on helmets and not BC

The OP is buying the bike from Halfords it seems, so might as well save the £27 and probably more on accessories and get the other cover for almost nothing
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
Your choice, I'm happy with the service I'm getting from their legal team

LBSs are thriving around here and I wear a helmet anyhow
I'm glad it works for/around you, but it's not much of a value-added benefit and no matter your personal crash helmet choice, we could debate the ethics of BC compelling helmets in another forum if you like ;) but I think people considering BC membership should have a more realistic evaluation of what they're supporting than was given.
 
The OP is buying the bike from Halfords it seems, so might as well save the £27 and probably more on accessories and get the other cover for almost nothing

The code B16ACC02 should get you 20% off cycle accessories until the 14th September too...
 
Any bike used for commuting needs the capability to mount mudguards and rear luggage rack; this means threaded eyelets on the bike and some generous tyre clearance.
Bikes for mixed use need fatter tyres. I would suggest 32mm as a sensible size for tracks and trails + road use.
For big guys, wheels are the main point of failure. More spokes = stronger and 36 is as high as you normally find.

Gears are defined by the number of combinations (which includes overlap and duplication) such as 3x8 (24 gears), or 2x9, (18 gears). You also have the range, so 3x (triples) have a wider range than 2x (doubles). In addition you have the ratios, so race-bikes use higher ratios than leisure road bikes, which are higher than utility/hybrid, and mountain bikes have the lowest gear ratios.

Check your budget. If you are commuting by bike you are not paying for your normal means of transport. Assume a bike lasts 5 years and work out your saving.
If you use a bike for fitness, you don't pay gym fees.

The modern do-it-all bike styles include flat bar/non-suspension hybrids, cyclo-cross, winter-training road bikes.
Base level for regular use seems to be the Decathlon Triban.
 
OP
OP
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LMUR2910

New Member
Hi guys,

I've been reading all your responses and I'm grateful for the help and tips. I've found out today that Halford's Carerra Road Bike LTD isn't a frame for me as it's 54cm and the advisor said I require atleast a 58cm for being 183cm (6ft). Looking at the bikes they have on the website they're usually £600+ Was looking forward to getting into cycling again

could anybody recommend where to buy a suitable road bike for myself? My budget's a little tight of £300

I've been searching around and I can't find anything suitable for me.
 
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HelsBells Cambs

Active Member
Location
Cambridgeshire
Hey guys,

First time on the forum and wanna-be cyclist, just poking your minds about a few questions I have about cycling which I have no clue at all about.

I've been wanting to start cycling as a hobby and a way to get fit, as well as cycle to work and home and stuff like that. Only thing that puts me off being a cyclist would be the idea of getting clipped from a truck or something like that or cycling into a wrong lane or something like that, silly I know. But better safe than sorry, right? Just really nervous about cycling with traffic.

My questions would be, how much would a road bike frame take as I'm 16 stone and 183 centimeters (6 ft) and I wouldn't want to break the bike, I've been told they can take up to a 150 kg limit or something like that from a friend who cycles daily.

At the moment, I've been looking at the Halford's Carrera TDF Mens Ltd Road Bike which is £269 at the minute, no idea if linking is allowed at all as I can't see any rule thread but maybe I'm just looking in the wrong area. My spending range isn't that great at the moment that's why I'm looking into that bike as from the reviews I've seen and the pricing, it apparently is a decent bike.

Another question would be can road bikes go on pavements, cycle roads and backtracks, stuff like that or is it just specifically road? (I know, it's a silly question but I need to get confirmation by somebody who actually knows cycling lol)

Another question would be, what gear would be recommended? helmets, lights, cycle jackets, bike locks, etc. As well as the gear guides, I've heard that lower is for ascends, hills etc, whereas high is for speed gaining and descending, just confirmation, and advice?

Thanks for reading, I also apologize if this is Beginner thread 4000 as well. Sorry about the huge amount of questions.

Hi! I'm only a couple of days into the forum but welcome ;-)
I agree about getting confidence on smaller roads. Drivers can still be discourteous on smaller roads but it will get you used to it! I'm much more happy now than when I started seriously cycling a few months ago.
The best piece of kit you'll buy are padded shorts!! Well worth investing in a decent pair. And, if you're cycling over winter, a rainproof jacket.
Good luck!
 

shouldbeinbed

Rollin' along
Location
Manchester way
Hi guys,

I've been reading all your responses and I'm grateful for the help and tips. I've found out today that Halford's Carerra Road Bike LTD isn't a frame for me as it's 54cm and the advisor said I require atleast a 58cm for being 183cm (6ft). Looking at the bikes they have on the website they're usually £600+ Was looking forward to getting into cycling again

could anybody recommend where to buy a suitable road bike for myself? My budget's a little tight of £300

I've been searching around and I can't find anything suitable for me.
I'm 5'11" and comfortably fit a 56 frame. Though frames can be a bit like shoes, one makers 56 may not be quite anothers so your best bet is to get out and throw your leg over a few bikes.

+1 to the above Triban link. Especially as a beginner Decathlon is a superb place to look for affordable decent bikes that offer good VFM and fun.

Viking are a low price brand that seem to be pulling their socks up on basic rideable bikes.
 

sidevalve

Über Member
They can, but don't ride on what's typically called pavements unless they're signed as mixed-use (blue circle with bike and people).
Don't quite know what you are saying here - NO bicycles MUST NOT use footpaths and footpaths are called by the great majority of people pavements end of story - simply twisting words to justify what is in effect petty lawbreaking [unless you actually hit one of those annoying pedestrians - oops sorry, bicycles never cause accidents do they] is pretty pathetic really. If there is a sign saying mixed use or cycleway then that is a completely different matter and such things are signed [either on posts or on the ground] and pretty obvious. I am sorry but if I meet a grown adult on a 'pavement' I will not be arguing the toss as to if it is a 'footpath' as a pedestrian I will NOT move over and whoever it is can ride on the road. If you don't follow the rules don't expect motorists or anyone else to do so either I'm sorry but it's time some cyclists stopped crying and just got on with it.
 
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