BB30 wavey washer

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Are the wavey washers on non-drive side of a BB30 bottom bracket known for needing frequent replacement?
My BB developed a few MM of play in December and I purchased a replacement but the BB was fine, but the wavey washer had lost its spring. Fitted a new wavey washer and all was fine, but now I’m getting the same issue just four months later.
Is this a known issue with this type of BB and is there anything I can do to prevent it? E.g a particular washer that will last as long as the BB, or a particular BB that can be fitted which doesn’t require the wavey washer?
 

JPBoothy

Veteran
Location
Cheshire
Are the wavey washers on non-drive side of a BB30 bottom bracket known for needing frequent replacement?
My BB developed a few MM of play in December and I purchased a replacement but the BB was fine, but the wavey washer had lost its spring. Fitted a new wavey washer and all was fine, but now I’m getting the same issue just four months later.
Is this a known issue with this type of BB and is there anything I can do to prevent it? E.g a particular washer that will last as long as the BB, or a particular BB that can be fitted which doesn’t require the wavey washer?
I'm not sure about the Washer but, the consensus of opinion 'when I have asked similar questions' appears to be that BB30 BB's are rubbish. Although, I think it is the luck of the draw as I have two CAADX's with them on and one has never given me a problem at all but, the other does develop a slight creak every few months. I removed the Crank and managed to cleaned out and re-pack grease into the tapered bearing without knocking them out of the frame which cured it for a while but, I find that I still have to occasionally back-off the large Allen bolt on the non-drive side and then tighten it again with a sharp tap of a rubber mallet to finish the job. The experts may cringe at my method but it works for me so I'm sticking with it :okay:
 
OP
OP
BurningLegs
Thanks for the input on this, everyone.
In the end, it turned out that the BB was a red herring.
The fault was in the FSA crankset. The spindle was coming away from the drive side!
I’ve now gone for a Shimano crankset but kept the BB30 with an adapter. If/when the BB does need replacing I will go Shimano.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
My understanding is that PF30, basically a cheapened version, is worse. You can convert PF30 to ISO/BSC threaded and therefore HT2 by pressing in an FSA adapter with a headset press. It is not easy to get it to go in straight. When I did it on a friend's bike, I decided not to apply the supplied bearing adhesive until the last possible moment. This turned out to be a rather good idea, because we had to leave the job overnight and think about it!
 

cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
My understanding is that PF30, basically a cheapened version, is worse. You can convert PF30 to ISO/BSC threaded and therefore HT2 by pressing in an FSA adapter with a headset press. It is not easy to get it to go in straight. When I did it on a friend's bike, I decided not to apply the supplied bearing adhesive until the last possible moment. This turned out to be a rather good idea, because we had to leave the job overnight and think about it!
I have pf 30 on mine and thankfully its been fine for 3 years so far, so maybe 2 years max of use as its the summer bike.I am considering converting to hollowtech as i have a chainset on the winter bike that matches the rest of the groupset on the pf 30 bike.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Hambini's line on Pressfit v threaded is that PF is better but relies on an accurately manufactured BB shell, to correct tolerances and good shell alignment. Threaded copes without creaking/hides the problems of lower quality manufactured BB shells, at the expense of greater losses (which a rider can't detect).
"Pressfit is not the problem and threaded is certainly not the answer…"
 
Top Bottom