BB30 maintenance/replacement

[Twilkes]

My BB30 is clicking and creaking, possibly now that the temperatures are rising again as it was fine over the winter but a bit clicky last summer.

I already have a replacement BB30 that only has about 150 miles on it that was removed because of reasons, and the crank is a SRAM Rival 22 which I think has an octocrank (?), I've taken the drive side off before but never removed the other side which has the axle attached to it.

I've done most things on a bike, replaced derailleurs, cup and cone hubs etc, but never messed with a bottom bracket.

So what tools would I need? i've read about various gauges and pulls and push tools and not sure what is absolutely necessary.

Is it worth buying them over getting an LBS to do it, i.e. is it a skilled job to get it set correctly or do they seat themselves fairly easily?

 

[Cycleops]

You’ll need a couple of tools to remove and replace the bearings which shouldn’t be too expensive. Might be worth getting the LBS to do it if lead time is not long.
This is a good video by Hambini taking you through the process.

View: https://youtu.be/ecT_6vjjjGQ

 

[Twilkes]

Thanks for that - so I need fairly specialist tools to remove and replace the BB, looks like this will be £50+ unless I'm not finding the right things. Seems a lot for a spindle and some different sized nuts and shaped washers!

 

[Cycleops]

Should be fairly easy to make up those tools from some threaded rod, washers and nuts for a few quid.

 

[vickster]

I think my LBS charges £30 if that for BB (and that’s London pricing). Pressfit Need to be fitted properly to avoid more creaking and if it does creak again, they can sort again

 

[Twilkes]

Yeah I think when I had it done last it was £25, but I think I want to do it just to understand what's going on with it in case any problems come up again; I've had mixed experience with LBS mechanics. I'll consider installing an adapter when this current crankset bites the dust, but until then I'd like the option of doing it myself.

 

[figbat]

I know it is not the ‘correct’ way but when I did the BB30 on my Cannondale Synapse I drifted the bearings out with a punch and hammer and then drifted the new ones in using the old bearing as a driver and keeping as square as is possible by eye. No issues afterwards, all quiet and smooth. It cost me only the price of the new bearings.

I have subsequently picked up a headset press which is just a threaded rod with handled nuts and washers either end and use this for any similar bearing press needs.

 

[Twilkes]

I know it is not the ‘correct’ way but when I did the BB30 on my Cannondale Synapse I drifted the bearings out with a punch and hammer and then drifted the new ones in using the old bearing as a driver and keeping as square as is possible by eye. No issues afterwards, all quiet and smooth. It cost me only the price of the new bearings.

I have subsequently picked up a headset press which is just a threaded rod with handled nuts and washers either end and use this for any similar bearing press needs.

Had you/have you had any clicking/creaking, and did you use any bearing compound when fitting either the bearings or the cranks?

 

[figbat]

There was creaking before I did the replacement and I used only a light film of general purpose grease for assembly.

 

[davidphilips]

If the bike has an alloy frame you could consider fitting a threaded conversion?

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Burton-B...-/283904717403?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

A puller like this is very useful. Not essential, because you can always use a big hammer.
Insertion is easy with a decent threaded bar, a couple of nuts and some decent washers.
The whole job, including crank removal/replacement, shouldn't take more than 30 minutes.