MacB
Lover of things that come in 3's
- Location
- Farnborough, Hampshire
So, Pompetamine just about finished but am rather underwhelmed by the brake performance, I have set them up via this method:-
http://www.twowheelblogs.com/avid-bb7-disc-brake-set-and-tuning
used Goodridge compressionless cables and even bought a dremel tool to grind the cable ends totally square and flat. the brakes need to bed in yet but I've made allowances for that. I'm using Tektro RL340 road levers and Tektro crosstop levers, I'm hoping that it's not a case of ditching the crosstops. The housings run full length to the calipers with the only interruption being the crosstops and they also have barrel adjusters. Even if I remove the crosstops I'd still be expected to put an inline adjuster in their place. Strangely I actually get better brake performance on the rear than the front and both brakes work better from the crosstops than the aero levers. Both road levers can bottom out on the bars and feel very easy to pull, yet I see actuation at the caliper as soon as they are pulled, so no lag.
I plan on doing some futher fettling and experimentation myself but was looking for experiences from others, especially anyone using crosstops as well. Some things I'm considering:-
the levers feel really easy to pull, can I tighten the spring tension within the caliper to provide a bit more resistance? I set cable tension as per the instructions so while the pads were in full rotor contact, but not forced hard contact. But I've read some claims that this is too slack and that the cable should be a bit tighter keeping the caliper under tension when brake not in use rather than totally relaxed.
following the above setup seems to have positioned my rotor nearer the outboard side of the caliper, the SRAM official video recommends this as well. It says that the rotor should be off centre towards the outside by a factor of 2:1. Yet other sources on the web say that the opposite should be aimed for, ie having 1/3 of the gap between rotor and inner caliper edge, and 2/3 the other side. Then some even say that you should just whack the rotor as central as possible and leave the rest to pad adjustment.
once I've got the caliper alignment, v rotor, sorted, then it's pad positioning and here again there seem to be three schools of thought. Equal pad to rotor gaps on both sides to give a balance between bite and modulation. Outboard pad closer than inboard to give increased modulation, ie only outboard pad moves and it flexes rotor against inboard. Thus the further the rotor travels to reach inboard pad the greater the modulation. Finally rotor as close to inboard pad as possible and then set outboard to suit feel, though some seem to claim this gives less modulation and an either on or off brake.
All info gratefully received
http://www.twowheelblogs.com/avid-bb7-disc-brake-set-and-tuning
used Goodridge compressionless cables and even bought a dremel tool to grind the cable ends totally square and flat. the brakes need to bed in yet but I've made allowances for that. I'm using Tektro RL340 road levers and Tektro crosstop levers, I'm hoping that it's not a case of ditching the crosstops. The housings run full length to the calipers with the only interruption being the crosstops and they also have barrel adjusters. Even if I remove the crosstops I'd still be expected to put an inline adjuster in their place. Strangely I actually get better brake performance on the rear than the front and both brakes work better from the crosstops than the aero levers. Both road levers can bottom out on the bars and feel very easy to pull, yet I see actuation at the caliper as soon as they are pulled, so no lag.
I plan on doing some futher fettling and experimentation myself but was looking for experiences from others, especially anyone using crosstops as well. Some things I'm considering:-
the levers feel really easy to pull, can I tighten the spring tension within the caliper to provide a bit more resistance? I set cable tension as per the instructions so while the pads were in full rotor contact, but not forced hard contact. But I've read some claims that this is too slack and that the cable should be a bit tighter keeping the caliper under tension when brake not in use rather than totally relaxed.
following the above setup seems to have positioned my rotor nearer the outboard side of the caliper, the SRAM official video recommends this as well. It says that the rotor should be off centre towards the outside by a factor of 2:1. Yet other sources on the web say that the opposite should be aimed for, ie having 1/3 of the gap between rotor and inner caliper edge, and 2/3 the other side. Then some even say that you should just whack the rotor as central as possible and leave the rest to pad adjustment.
once I've got the caliper alignment, v rotor, sorted, then it's pad positioning and here again there seem to be three schools of thought. Equal pad to rotor gaps on both sides to give a balance between bite and modulation. Outboard pad closer than inboard to give increased modulation, ie only outboard pad moves and it flexes rotor against inboard. Thus the further the rotor travels to reach inboard pad the greater the modulation. Finally rotor as close to inboard pad as possible and then set outboard to suit feel, though some seem to claim this gives less modulation and an either on or off brake.
All info gratefully received
