anti puncture tape

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Pale Rider

Legendary Member
Tyre liners such as these are to be avoided.

General consensus is they cause more punctures than they prevent because the tape squirms inside the tyre and nicks the tube.
 
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Colin B

Colin B

Well-Known Member
Location
Manchester
Cheers guys for the input as you can see I know jack about modern cycling so as much as my questions may seem mad this stuff just didn't exist when I last cycled
 

screenman

Legendary Member
Inner tubes do not belong on MTB bikes, so a strip to protect the inner tube is redundant. I would say they are one of life's buying and selling things, no or little use to anyone except those who make money from it.
 
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Colin B

Colin B

Well-Known Member
Location
Manchester
Inner tubes do not belong on MTB bikes, so a strip to protect the inner tube is redundant. I would say they are one of life's buying and selling things, no or little use to anyone except those who make money from it.
I've briefly looked at tubeless approach by tbh know little to nothing about it . I also don't really know what the benefits are either you see to me as a newb all I see is with a tube if it goes I simply pull out the broken one and replace with new how does a tubeless help just imagine I'm a right donkey here and explain as simply as possible please I could be turned to tubeless
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
I've briefly looked at tubeless approach by tbh know little to nothing about it . I also don't really know what the benefits are either you see to me as a newb all I see is with a tube if it goes I simply pull out the broken one and replace with new how does a tubeless help just imagine I'm a right donkey here and explain as simply as possible please I could be turned to tubeless
Depending on your intended use, running tubeless on a MTB has many advantages. There are three ways of dog so, firstly using LUST or UST tyres ona tubeless rim. The tyres are heavy duty, and form a perfect seal with the rim, which itself is constructed so as to be airtight to start with. UST or LUST tyres tend to have thick sidewalks and heavy tread area, and so tend to be heavy overall. IMO they are a bit outdated and with other friendlier technology, a bit unnecessary.

Tubeless ready setups next. These are rims designed to form a decent seal to start with, but using Tubeless Ready (TLR) tyres which have a soft flange to seal well into the rim. To use these, you tape the inner surface of the rim with thin airtight tape, fit a tubeless valve to the rim, then fit the tyre using latex sealant. The latex seals any air leaks in the tyre sidewall, and form a perfect seal on the rim. The latex remains fluid inside the tyre, and seals any subsequent punctures. At last count I had over 30 self-healed punctures in my rear tyre alone.

The third way is to use a standard rim and a tubeless rim strip. This is a rubber liner with its own valve which is stretched over the rim, and forces a better seal whe the tyre is fitted. They are a bit heavier than tubeless ready setup, but are a decent compromise. You also use latex sealant to deal with leaks and punctures. Yu can make a ghetto rim strip using a 20" BMX inner tube, stretched over the rim, then sliced open along the entire outer circumference, the tyre fitted, and any overlapping excess trimmed off.

The advantages of tubeless, especially TLR , are weight saving, albeit not so much with rim strips, and none at all with most UST or LUST tyres. Yu can however run much lower pressures in your tyres. I'm Clydesdale class, and run my tyres at 20 psi front, 25 psi rear which gives tremendous grip in most situations. If you were to run that low with a tube fitted, you'd get pinch flats on the first square edge you hit. The tyres also fel different without tubes. There's less squirm, and more even support. I've already hinted a the main advantage, which is self-healing punctures. Between the two bikes I run I haven't had to stop and patch or change tubes about 50 times. .......
 
I used to run those liners years ago before modern puncture resistant tyres. They do deaden your ride and are an arse to fit, don't bother with them now.
 

screenman

Legendary Member
Sorry about my late reply been swimming. Anyway I have not been missed as the advantages have been listed.
 
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Colin B

Colin B

Well-Known Member
Location
Manchester
Depending on your intended use, running tubeless on a MTB has many advantages. There are three ways of dog so, firstly using LUST or UST tyres ona tubeless rim. The tyres are heavy duty, and form a perfect seal with the rim, which itself is constructed so as to be airtight to start with. UST or LUST tyres tend to have thick sidewalks and heavy tread area, and so tend to be heavy overall. IMO they are a bit outdated and with other friendlier technology, a bit unnecessary.

Tubeless ready setups next. These are rims designed to form a decent seal to start with, but using Tubeless Ready (TLR) tyres which have a soft flange to seal well into the rim. To use these, you tape the inner surface of the rim with thin airtight tape, fit a tubeless valve to the rim, then fit the tyre using latex sealant. The latex seals any air leaks in the tyre sidewall, and form a perfect seal on the rim. The latex remains fluid inside the tyre, and seals any subsequent punctures. At last count I had over 30 self-healed punctures in my rear tyre alone.

The third way is to use a standard rim and a tubeless rim strip. This is a rubber liner with its own valve which is stretched over the rim, and forces a better seal whe the tyre is fitted. They are a bit heavier than tubeless ready setup, but are a decent compromise. You also use latex sealant to deal with leaks and punctures. Yu can make a ghetto rim strip using a 20" BMX inner tube, stretched over the rim, then sliced open along the entire outer circumference, the tyre fitted, and any overlapping excess trimmed off.

The advantages of tubeless, especially TLR , are weight saving, albeit not so much with rim strips, and none at all with most UST or LUST tyres. Yu can however run much lower pressures in your tyres. I'm Clydesdale class, and run my tyres at 20 psi front, 25 psi rear which gives tremendous grip in most situations. If you were to run that low with a tube fitted, you'd get pinch flats on the first square edge you hit. The tyres also fel different without tubes. There's less squirm, and more even support. I've already hinted a the main advantage, which is self-healing punctures. Between the two bikes I run I haven't had to stop and patch or change tubes about 50 times. .......
Ok cubist you got me intrigued so I youtubed options 2 and 3 and although the maguiver style one would probably save me money I'd say the other would be more reliable but wouldn't I hear all that slopping around in my tyre and where if not would I get this setup oh and if I do get a puncture what happens does the tyre still deflate and then I just pump it back up cos the latex plugs then hole once the object is removed
 
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Colin B

Colin B

Well-Known Member
Location
Manchester
I'm pretty much a tubeless convert just watched a guy take an all to his tyre and liked the self heel speed cheers for opening my eyes
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Ok cubist you got me intrigued so I youtubed options 2 and 3 and although the maguiver style one would probably save me money I'd say the other would be more reliable but wouldn't I hear all that slopping around in my tyre and where if not would I get this setup oh and if I do get a puncture what happens does the tyre still deflate and then I just pump it back up cos the latex plugs then hole once the object is removed
Possibly the most common tubeless setups are Stans No Tubes. Their rims are a piece of car to setup and run. Other rims can be run tubless with tape, valves and sealant, and there's a chart/ guide on the Stans site. formexample, my lad is running a pair of DT Swiss EX500 wheels with Schwalbe TLR tyres. They do tubeless kits containing tape, valves and sealant for about twenty quid. For real bargains head over to Superstar Components. If you ride XC then they are doing a set of Stans Crest rims on their Switch hubs for about £140. They also sell rim tape and tubeless valves for about half the price of Stans. Shop around for fluid. I buy it by the pint, costs about £15 but then our family has three bikes with tubeless setups.
 
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