another chainring query

[NotFabian]

I know there's a few similar threads but just wondering...I'm thinking of changing my compact (campag 10speed) chainrings to standard 39/53 cause now that I'm getting a little fitter and a bit more capable I find the 34T hardly used (bar long horrendous climbs) I've been advised in the past to not continually use the big ring as this puts extra stress on the chain and cassette(?) The cassette is 12-25, my question is... is it a case of changing the 'rings and chain or is there more to it??

I'd appreciate any suggestions/advice.

NotFabian

 

[gbb]

I know there's a few similar threads but just wondering...I'm thinking of changing my compact (campag 10speed) chainrings to standard 39/53 cause now that I'm getting a little fitter and a bit more capable I find the 34T hardly used (bar long horrendous climbs) I've been advised in the past to not continually use the big ring as this puts extra stress on the chain and cassette(?) The cassette is 12-25, my question is... is it a case of changing the 'rings and chain or is there more to it??

I'd appreciate any suggestions/advice.

NotFabian

Hia Fabian..or not, as the case may be
Excess use of the big ring ?..well it will put extra stress on the cassette and chain, but its all designed to cope, but your knees arent neccessarily. If you're grinding away in the big ring, your knees will tell you long before the cassette.

The simplest compromise is to fit a 36 or 38 inner ring, even up to a 40. There's no other changes required barring moving the dog fang if ones fitted.
The chain stays as it is. You'll feel less of a need to be on the big ring if this concerns you. Changing that inner ring couldnt be easier.

 

[accountantpete]

The Campy compact BCD is 110mm and standard road is 135mm - so you can't simply pop on a bigger pair of rings.

You can change the cranks - compacts go very well on eBay so it's not going to be very expensive - the front mech will cope.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

The Campy compact BCD is 110mm and standard road is 135mm - so you can't simply pop on a bigger pair of rings.

You can change the cranks - compacts go very well on eBay so it's not going to be very expensive - the front mech will cope.

110 bcd chain rings are available here http://www.dotbike.com/p/3593
and a number of other places as well, I changed my Kilmeston from 34/50 to 42/48

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

110 bcd chain rings are available here http://www.dotbike.com/p/3593
and a number of other places as well, I changed my Kilmeston from 34/50 to 42/48
[attachment=4110:SP_A0094.jpg]

Sorry Dave it is understandable you did not know this - one of Campag's 110 bcd bolt hole is offset, so typical 110 bcd rings aren't compatible.

Special ones are, as described here, but it could be easier/cheaper to replace the chainset as Pete suggested.

But if I were the OP I would firstly completely ignore the questionable advice regarding the "stress" on the drivetrain, and then reassess whether the compact should be kept for the odd hills.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

Sorry Dave it is understandable you did not know this - one of Campag's 110 bcd bolt hole is offset, so typical 110 bcd rings aren't compatible.

Special ones are, as described here, but it could be easier/cheaper to replace the chainset as Pete suggested.

But if I were the OP I would firstly completely ignore the questionable advice regarding the "stress" on the drivetrain, and then reassess whether the compact should be kept for the odd hills.

Cheers for that, I've never used Campag, I'll try to remember that one, what an odd way of doing things.

 

[gbb]

What chainset are you running Notfabian...although you're stating Campag 10 speed, it still could be you need a 'standard' chainring...if your chainset is an FSA etc. Its only Campag chainsets that require that offset hole.

 

[Tollers]

I've was in the same situation this week. Last night I replaced my campag centaur compact chainset with a standard 53/39

Things to note:
- You'll need to raise front mech on the seat tube and readjust
- You may need to add extra links into the chain

Otherwise it's a pretty simple job. Now I just have to live with the consequences on the hills P.s ribble have standard 10s centaur chainsets for about 55 quid. Freakin' bargain! I just paid $130! Grrr

 

[NotFabian]

Thanks for replies everyone,

Yeah sorry, chainset is Miche not campy.

Tollers, centaur at £55 sounds good

Btw I'm hearing lots of different opinions about the big ring advice re excess chain stretch etc.
Must check out Ribble, the centaur would be an upgrade too.

 

[gbb]

Thanks for replies everyone,

Yeah sorry, chainset is Miche not campy.

Tollers, centaur at £55 sounds good

Btw I'm hearing lots of different opinions about the big ring advice re excess chain stretch etc.
Must check out Ribble, the centaur would be an upgrade too.

Ive not heard it put that way, but there is a lot of discussion re chain life lately. More particually how short or how long the life of a chain can be and what might cause it. Extra force obviously, honking on hills in my case. my chains only last IRO 1000 to 1200 miles...but i'm rarely ever in the big ring, so that shoots that down (in my case only) Even then, i'd only describe myself as a fit cyclist, far far from superhuman , yet how can i put that much force through the chain.
Others that get much more life put of thier chains do say they spin a lot and are 'steadier' riders.

Asked this before to get a comparison...how often to pro riders (even serious club racers) change their chains ? Is all this force arguement a load of cobblers ?
FWIW, i'd love to spend more time on the big ring, but my knees wont take it.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

Ive not heard it put that way, but there is a lot of discussion re chain life lately. More particually how short or how long the life of a chain can be and what might cause it. Extra force obviously, honking on hills in my case. my chains only last IRO 1000 to 1200 miles...but i'm rarely ever in the big ring, so that shoots that down (in my case only) Even then, i'd only describe myself as a fit cyclist, far far from superhuman , yet how can i put that much force through the chain.
Others that get much more life put of thier chains do say they spin a lot and are 'steadier' riders.

Asked this before to get a comparison...how often to pro riders (even serious club racers) change their chains ? Is all this force arguement a load of cobblers ?
FWIW, i'd love to spend more time on the big ring, but my knees wont take it.

I also would like to spend more time on the big ring, but its not the knees, these days the old legs need a serious tail wind to pull much more than a 46 tooth ring. On the subject of chains, I'm on a 10 speed system for the first time now I've got the Kilmeston, so I'm in unknown territory with chain wear, thats why I'm reading any article I come across that mentions chain wear. On 7 and 8 speed systems I would get 2 to 3 years, between 4000 and 6000 miles to a chain.

 

[Tollers]

Ribble are now doing an extra 10% off campag! Add 'camp10' code before you checkout.

Tollers

 

[monnet]

Asked this before to get a comparison...how often to pro riders (even serious club racers) change their chains ? Is all this force arguement a load of cobblers ?
FWIW, i'd love to spend more time on the big ring, but my knees wont take it.

I'm not sure I quite fall into the 'serious club racers' category but I race regularly in regional level events (as opposed to national) and using Ultegra groupset with SRAM chain all well maintained, I get about 4000 miles out of a chain before the wear indicator shows it's time to swap.

As for changing to a 53/39 from a compact, I'd ask if it's really worth the hassle. If you're fitter, as someone else has said, switch the little ring for something less little. Sure, for racing a 53 is pretty much a necessity but for anything else, I think a 50 is more than plenty. Remember - 50x11 is bigger than 53x12, so that's descents sorted. In a race, apart from the odd downhill or in an eyeballs out pan flat, tailwind assisted sprint I hardly use 53x11 or 12. In those gears, if I cross the line knackered, forget to shift down and stop and then try to start moving again, I realise what a huge gear it is and why I so rarely use it. 53x15 racing will be a steady 25-26mph.

I suppose all that is a long way of saying, if you fancy a standard, go for it but weigh up the cost, hassle and necessity as well.

 

[NotFabian]

Monnet- thanks for the input, having heard a few opinions, here and lbs, changing the inner ring sounds like an inexpensive solution ie more flexibility on the inner ring...and apparently not complicated.

Cheers
NotFabian