Annirak's Foffa IGH Drop Bar Conversion

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annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
Background; or why I'm doing this
In 2017, I went looking for a steel bike with disc brakes & belt drive. That combination was pretty rare and I was either going to have to compromise or go custom, which would blow my budget. However, I eventually found one: the Foffa Nuvinci Black. Here's the thread where I got it: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/first-ride-on-a-foffa-nuvinci-black.227625/page-2#post-5089911

It had some teething issues. I had to have the wheel rebuilt twice: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/options-for-spoke-replacement.249641/ but after they added those washers, it was solid for 4 years.

Aside from those washers, it's been rock solid for 5 years. After I installed Continental Contact Plus tyres on it in May 2019, I stopped getting punctures. Entirely. I have worn the tread off the rear tyre and still not had a puncture. Those tyres are still on it. I've gone through 2 belts and 2 sprockets doing ~15 miles/day with a trailer. This is exactly the experience I was looking for when I got it.

That said, it's not without its quirks. It goes through a set of shift cables per year. They fail in the shifter itself from repeated flexing. To make matters worse, I've taken it to two LBSs and the mechanics had never seen a Nuvinci hub before and when they tried changing the cables for me, they did it wrong, so I had to start changing the cables myself. The hub itself is also a bit draggy in some situations: Even when it was relatively new, I remember trying to ride uphill through the mud and feeling like I was losing power transfer.

As much as TRP Spykes are great when adjusted properly, they come out of adjustment quickly and it's quite fiddly to get the inner piston adjusted.

It wasn't the fastest bike. I considered replacing it at one point: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/fast-commuter.276562/

Now, I've had two cascading failures that meant a rebuild of some sort... First, my hub blew a gasket and started leaking traction fluid. Then, I discovered one day that about half my spokes were suddenly loose. I wouldn't be surprised if the two were related.

So it was time to replace the hub. But which hub should I replace it with? Well, Rohloff and Kindernay are out of my price range. I wasn't happy that Nuvinci was such a mystery at a LBS and that there was no way to service the hub. I'm also partial to drop bars, so I wanted to see if it was possible to convert it to drops. That forced me onto Shimano--at least there are drop options for Nexus & Alfine.

Outline of the project
The project is to:
  1. Replace the rear wheel with a Nexus/Alfine wheel/hub
  2. Replace the TRP Spyke's with a hydro or semi-hydro solution with drop pull ratios
  3. Replace the quill stem with a quill stem to threadless stem adaptor and a threadless stem
  4. Replace the handlebars with drop bars
I'm hoping to accumulate enough Di2 parts through sales & used to convert to di2 at some point in the future, but doing it now was outside my budget.

I've been finding parts here and there through Black Friday deals and eBay. I think it's nearly ready to go!

Parts
I've already sourced:
  • Nexus 8, prebuilt in a 700c wheel
  • Alfine interface unit & anti-turn nuts
  • Alfine 8 shifter (the old one that's Nexus/inter-8 compatible)
  • Deda quill stem adaptor
  • Zipp Service Course Ergo 70 drop bars
  • Tektro RL340 levers OR Shimano ST-6770 levers
  • Giant Conduct master cylinder & flat mount callipers
  • Tektro M290 post-mount callipers
  • An old Topeak bar extension
I still need brake cables, bar tape, and a bleed kit.

A few comments about this set of parts. I've got mixed feelings about using the RL340 levers vs the ST-6770 levers. I could return the RL340s and just use the ST-6770s, but I'd also like to be able to test the di2 parts as they come in over the next couple of years. OTOH, I suspect that the ST-6770s are nicer to ride.

I had originally hoped to get the Alfine shifter over the drop bars and into the middle... but then I found a really good deal on the Zipp bars. Like <£10 good. I'll either need to use the bar extension or switch to a j-tek shifter.

My frame is post-mount but my Giant Conduct unit has flat-mount brakes. I talked to a mechanic who was familiar with Conduct and he assured me that Tektro m285 was compatible with Conduct and not only that but some Giant bikes actually shipped with Conduct and m285 callipers. Closely examining the shell of Tektro m290 and Giant Conduct Post Mount, the subtle details seem the same, so I think that the Conduct is just a rebranded m290.

I know that many folks don't like Conduct, but it seemed like a pragmatic choice when trying to stay within a budget--TRP Hylex and Hy/Rd which were my first choices, were 2x the price of Conduct even with the extra m290 callipers. Maybe I can even sell the flat-mount callipers.

The last few parts are still rolling in. I'll start taking pictures of the build soon!
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
I don't know if it's of interest, but I can also add price & sourcing info to this if anyone wants to know.
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
Parts & sourcing:
  • (£107, eBay) Nexus 8, prebuilt in a 700c wheel
  • (£15, Amazon) SGS500 Alfine interface unit & anti-turn nuts
  • (£17, Amazon) SM-RT64 center-lock rotor
  • (£0, Colleague) Alfine 8 shifter (the old one that's Nexus/inter-8 compatible)
  • (£14, Chain Reaction) Deda quill stem adaptor
  • (£9, Chain Reaction) Zipp Service Course Ergo 70 drop bars
  • (£15, Amazon) Tektro RL340 levers OR (£37, eBay) Shimano ST-6770 levers
  • (£70, eBay) Giant Conduct Stem, master cylinder & flat mount callipers
  • (£35, eBay) Tektro M290 post-mount callipers
  • (£0, Already owned) An old Topeak bar extension
  • (£17, Amazon) Bleed kit
  • (£9, eBay) Brake Cables
Bar tape TBD...
Modulo the bar tape, this rebuild should cost me < £350
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
Here’s the subject:

73C6CC6F-B27E-45E5-AE75-CF404C2EB732.jpeg


And with most of the parts:
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I’m still waiting on replacement callipers, new brake cables, and the belt sprocket. I also still need to decide on bar tape. And the mudguards have seen better days…
 

All uphill

Still rolling along
Location
Somerset
Great thread @annirak !

I have swapped flat bars for drops and vice versa on a couple of bikes and couldn't believe how different they felt!

Drop bars make the fit quite a bit longer which changes weight distribution and posture. Not a bad thing, just different.
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
An exciting turn of events: my quill stem adaptor is 25.4mm and my stem uses the more standard 28.6mm. It’s either shim or attempt to return the stem adaptor.
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
Great thread @annirak !

I have swapped flat bars for drops and vice versa on a couple of bikes and couldn't believe how different they felt!

Drop bars make the fit quite a bit longer which changes weight distribution and posture. Not a bad thing, just different.

They definitely do! I’m looking forward to testing the fit. There’s a real possibility that it will be too long, though… :/
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
Progress at last!
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I got the front caliper mounted, but the internal cable routing for the back caused me some trouble. I’ll have to try again tomorrow. I also need to learn how to align hydraulic disc brake callipers. Before or after I’ve bled them…
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
The gates sprocket arrived today. I was able to get it mounted despite not having a SureFit tool. I also managed to get the snap ring on and cassette interface.

In the same go, I also got the internal routing of the rear brake done. I still need to cut the brake hoses, but I’m saving that job for when I have the brake cables I need to bleed the system.

Pics tomorrow, I hope!
 
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annirak

annirak

Veteran
Location
Cambridge, UK
The internal routing was both harder and easier than I expected. I started by trying to feed an old brake cable through the frame (easy) and pull the new brake hose in with it. It was an utter failure. My first attempt was to use electrical tape. This didn't work at all due to the freezing temperatures in my garage. The tape kept tearing, since it has no elasticity at -7C. Next, I tried painter's tape. The thickness of the tape was sufficient to completely stop me from pulling the hose through the frame apertures.

My next attempt was to slightly pre-form the hose with a curve at the end. I managed to get the end of the hose to appear in the opening, then used the tip of a screwdriver to direct it out while I pushed up from the bottom. It was much simpler than the tape!

Rim tape is on now. I have to salvage a tube from the the old wheel.
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