After how many miles should wearing parts be replaced?

[Paul_L]

I'm sure it depends on the quality of components to start with as well as the type of riding but is there a rule of thumb as to how long parts like chains, cables and other moving or wearing parts last?

My road bike is a mix of Sora and Tiagra and i'm looking to slowly upgrade and thought one approach might be to start on the parts which are ageing first. The bike has probably done about 1000 miles in the last 18 months although most of these have been in the last 3 months.

 

[snorri]

I doubt if there is a reliable rule of thumb, it depends on the nature of usage, and routine maintenance regime in place. It might be an idea for you to keep a diary, logging dates and mileages on which replacement items are fitted. That way you will create your own rule of thumb.

 

[gbb]

The hardest parts to guage wear and tear (without the right equipment) is the transmission...chain, chainrings and cassette (some of the most expensive components).

Ironically, all you need is a chain wear indicator. I got one for circa £8. Easy and simple to use, 0.75% wear and 1% wear. It takes 5 seconds to measure the wear on your chain, and if all's well...all is well (generally speaking)
A worn chain will shorten the life of your cassette and chainrings of course.

TBH, at 1000 miles, if you've been lubricating, you shouldnt have a problem.

 

[mgarl10024]

Ironically, all you need is a chain wear indicator. I got one for circa £8. Easy and simple to use, 0.75% wear and 1% wear.

This may be the same one. I bought mine from here for £6.49. You may be able to beat the price further. No affiliation.
http://www.wiggle.co...ool/5360031491/

I may have mentioned this before on here, but I had an interesting chat with some of the cyclists in work. My view is that with diligent cleaning and maintenance, you can make that drive train last.
However, they suggest that regularly degreasing/cleaning the chain (degreaser costs), then replacing the chains at 1% wear (chains cost), all to protect a £25 cassette is a false economy, and that you should really let the whole system wear then replace it all together.

Personally, I'm sticking to the 'keeping it clean' and 'replace the chain when worn' regime, as I like everything running smoothly, even if it costs a little extra.

MG

 

[mgarl10024]

is there a rule of thumb as to how long parts like chains, cables and other moving or wearing parts last?

Hi Paul,

I'd like to know this too.

Obviously it is gonna depend a lot on riding conditions, whether you are a spinner or a grinder, how frequent you are with maintenance, etc. etc.

However, from reading around, I have in my head the following figures (however they may be well out)
chains: 1500 miles. I've read of some reaching 3000miles.
tyres: around 2500 miles.
cassette: around 2-3 chains if worn chains are swapped out promptly. Perhaps 5000 miles.
cables: haven't read a lot about those. Not sure.
hubs: not sure. haven't read about those. I hear of all season riders replacing them every couple of years.

As I stress, I'm a pretty new cyclist, and these figures will vary widely and are just what I seem to be reading a lot of on forums. I don't really have enough practical experience to offer yet either.

Hope that helps,

MG

 

[Ticktockmy]

I'm sure it depends on the quality of components to start with as well as the type of riding but is there a rule of thumb as to how long parts like chains, cables and other moving or wearing parts last?

My road bike is a mix of Sora and Tiagra and i'm looking to slowly upgrade and thought one approach might be to start on the parts which are ageing first. The bike has probably done about 1000 miles in the last 18 months although most of these have been in the last 3 months.

Really is hard to gauge, not only the weather, but road conditions, type of bike, how you use your bike, some people don’t like using their gears so much; so chains, bottom brackets really take a bashing. Tyres depending on their make, what they are designed, what they are used for, and road conditions will control the wear. Winter riding can trash your chain and all the transmission component depending if you ride in conditions where council use a lot of salt. Best to carry out preventive maintenance is the best solution s.

However with regard of the transmission components I tend to, apart from oiling the chain and knocking off the worse of the crud, I replace the whole system together.

 

[gbb]

This may be the same one. I bought mine from here for £6.49. You may be able to beat the price further. No affiliation.
http://www.wiggle.co...ool/5360031491/

I may have mentioned this before on here, but I had an interesting chat with some of the cyclists in work. My view is that with diligent cleaning and maintenance, you can make that drive train last.
However, they suggest that regularly degreasing/cleaning the chain (degreaser costs), then replacing the chains at 1% wear (chains cost), all to protect a £25 cassette is a false economy, and that you should really let the whole system wear then replace it all together.

Personally, I'm sticking to the 'keeping it clean' and 'replace the chain when worn' regime, as I like everything running smoothly, even if it costs a little extra.

MG

The chain wear indicator...same principle, different make. But so easy to use and it stops you from over using a chain and damaging the cassette etc.

I 'diligently' cleaned and lubed my last chain (KMC X10)...it barely lasted 1000 miles of good weather riding
.
It was worn past the 1% marker...so theoretically will prematurely wear the cassette and chainrings. On the grounds my cassette was £30 plus and the chainrings £35...i reckon it pays to replace the chain early (on time)

I can see the logic of letting everything wear together and getting maximum life out of it all, but 10 speed chain is alarmingly light...i'd take the safety factor into account and wouldnt fancy worrying if it were so worn..it might snap.

 

[ACS]

After 2 years of commuting I gave my bike (Sirrus 2006) a good over haul during the weekend

Wheels into the LBS to get the hubs looked at
New chain + cassette
New tyres + inner tubes
Replaced brake blocks
Replaced the gear cables
Damm good clean and polish
Tightened down nut and bolts
Pedals off, greased and replaced.
Rear derailleur stripped down, cleaned, new jockey wheels.

The difference is amazing, bit like having a new bike.

 

[jimboalee]

Chain wear can be measured with a twelve inch ruler. Pull the chain tight and put the ruler over 10 full links ( 10" ). If the rivet is at 10 1/10", it is 1% worn and it needs changing.

Inner tubes don't need changing until they completely fail. My 1964 Moulton Mini is still running on the original inner tubes and that bike has never had a puncture. Two new tyres though.

If you have a bike with a triple and use the middle ring most often, like always, change the alloy ring with a steel one. It will last decades.