Advice please - change of bike (and to drop bars)

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soulful dog

Veteran
Location
Glasgow
I'm thinking of buying a second hand Dawes Horizon (which I know is a good bike, it's in good condition and is a decent price, but is possibly too good a bike for an unfit newbie like me who won't do it justice!) and I can't make up my mind whether I should spend my cash on it or just stick with what I've got at the moment. So I'm hoping you guys can help me decide!

I just started cycling in the past year to try and lose a bit of weight. I currently have a hybrid which I use for a 10 mile 'commute' two weeks per month and try to use as much as I can the other two. Generally at the weekend I try to go for a longer run and a couple of weeks ago I did 30 miles, my furthest yet.

I'm not sure I'm going to get the chance to try and increase that distance for a while because of the weather, but I'm not that fussed as I'm not cycling with the specific aim of getting really fit or getting into touring. But in saying that, I've no doubt that weather, and my own fitness permitting, I'll keep trying to go a little further.

Incidentally, I've never ridden with drops before and will take the bike for a quick spin to see how I feel about it before buying it.

With all that in mind, should I stick with my current bike (a Claud Butler Odyessy), and maybe treat myself to a new/newer similar bike next year (which was what I had been planning). Or should I take the chance on buying the Dawes now? Any advice would be much appreciated.
 

4F

Active member of Helmets Are Sh*t Lobby
Location
Suffolk.
You can never have too many bikes, for me drops win every time ;)
 

got-to-get-fit

New Member
Location
Yarm, Cleveland
If you test the Dawes dont be surprised if it feels strange ...my conversion from MTB to road bike was a difficult one for the first couple of days ...the roadie seemed to be far too light, when i accellerated i had a tendancy to pull the front wheel clean of the road as i wasnt used to such a light front end. The wind would buffet me all over the place and i got an aching back from the new position.
That said, i now love my road bike (or rather bikes...as fat fellow said, you can never have too many) If the Dawes is a reasonable price then give it a crack you will end up loving it. Incidentaly i have just bought a Dawes Flambeau as my winter bike and it goes like shoot off a hot shovel ....thats another surprise of converting to drops ...you seem to go so much faster.

Buy it and enjoy it.
 
I came over to drops last year- good move and enjoy cycling more now.

Only downside with drop bar bikes is they do not seem to have such good gears for hills (if you are a bit unfit that is) even with a granny ring. So watch out for that if you are used to dropping a MTB into a very low gear for a hill you may run out of cogs. I changed my casette to a bigger big ring and it is ok now.
 

Soltydog

Legendary Member
Location
near Hornsea
l-mac said:
I'm thinking of buying a second hand Dawes Horizon (which I know is a good bike, it's in good condition and is a decent price, but is possibly too good a bike for an unfit newbie like me who won't do it justice!)

That's what i first thought after buying my allez elite 2 years ago. every time i went out I was thinking 'why did i buy this bike, it's too good for me' But now I'm fitter & I enjoy riding the allez more than any of my other bikes.
Remember you won't be an unfit newbie for long, & buying the best bike you can afford is my recomendation :girl:
 
OP
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soulful dog

soulful dog

Veteran
Location
Glasgow
Thanks guys, bought the bike so hopefully it'll work out and long-term it'll be my 'good' bike for longer rides.

It is a fairly small frame though, so I have the seat raised a bit to get the proper height and it means the handlebars are slightly lower than the seat. From looking at other bikes that seems to be the norm for drops but I think I'd feel a bit more safe and comfortable with them slightly higher, so I presume a high rise stem would be an option?
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
To check the frame size, climb over the bike and stand with both heels on the ground. There should be about an inch ( 2 for sloping frames ) between the top tube and your crotch. Don't worry if the frame is 1.5 clear.

Seat height from the BB centre to the top of the saddle should be your height minus your seated height ( inside leg ) x 0.88.
When this is set up and you are sitting on the bike with the crank horizontal forward, drop a plumb line from the bump on the side of your knee. The plumb line should dissect the pedal spindle. Adjust the saddle fore-aft to get this right.
Next, ride the bike around for a while with your hands on the hoods until you are comfortable, then glance down at the front wheel spindle. If it is eclipsed by the horizontal part of the handlebars at the stem clamp, the stem has the correct reach.
If all is OK, ride round a while longer and let someone take a photo of you as you ride past. Your Lumbar vertebrae should be at 45 degrees. Adjust the stem height until this is correct.

Now post the photos on CycleChat.

Done.
 
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soulful dog

soulful dog

Veteran
Location
Glasgow
Thanks jimboalee. I've included a pic of the bike from when it was on sale. I've since raised the handlebars a touch (as high as the limit) and have about 5 inches of the seat post showing. I'm sorry I can't post pics, but when standing there is maybe about 1 to 1.5 inch clearance over the top tube but no more than that. I can't make sense of your figures for working out the seat height but I have it set at a height so that when my foot is on the pedal at the bottom of the rotation my leg is almost straight but not fully locked.

As for the positioning on the bike, the knee/pedal bit seems to be about right but glancing down at the handlbars, it's nowhere near the front wheel spindle, more like level with the back of the brakes, it's only when I have my hands back on the vertical bar (further back than resting on the top at the gear/brakes that it is). Finally, my back is slightly lower than 45 degrees.

I realise it's probably a lot to do with getting used to a different riding position but I do feel as if I'm stretched too low with my hands on the hoods, which is why I wondered about raising the handlebars slightly?

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Randochap

Senior hunter
l-mac said:
It is a fairly small frame though, so I have the seat raised a bit to get the proper height and it means the handlebars are slightly lower than the seat. From looking at other bikes that seems to be the norm for drops but I think I'd feel a bit more safe and comfortable with them slightly higher, so I presume a high rise stem would be an option?

This, unfortunately, is one of the biggest mistakes new riders make, or are steered into by unscrupulous shops, who are low on sizes.

The top tube should generally be no more than 1" below the crotch, or you will run in to what you have (so to speak). Your body is tellingyou that the bars are too low. On a touring bike, I will argue, the bars should be at least level with the saddle height.

"Compact" geometry and modern threadless steerers also complicates things.

You are right, your only option now is to install a high rise stem ... assuming the rest of the geometry isn't too far off the rest of your body size.

Drop bars are best, but not if they are set too low. The old "fistful of seatpost" rule is still a good guide.
 

Baggy

Cake connoisseur
Before buying a new stem you could try turning the bars back towards you a little, the hoods look as if they are quite low on the bars - just release the bolt on the stem and pull the bars backwards slightly until the top part of the handlebar viewed from the side is slightly more horizontal.

This will give you a slightly more upright riding position and put less pressure on your wrists.
 
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soulful dog

soulful dog

Veteran
Location
Glasgow
Before buying a new stem you could try turning the bars back towards you a little, the hoods look as if they are quite low on the bars.
I did wonder about that myself, couldn't get the bolt loosened though so gave up - but I'll maybe give it another go to see if it helps.

This, unfortunately, is one of the biggest mistakes new riders make. You are right, your only option now is to install a high rise stem ... assuming the rest of the geometry isn't too far off the rest of your body size.
Totally my own fault, I just thought that as it was a slightly bigger frame than my hybrid (I have the seat raised a fair bit on it), it must be fine and I never really gave it a thought that the Horizon wouldn't simply work the same way for me - I just hope getting a high rise stem will be a solution and I've not just foolishly wasted my money! :headshake:

Incidentally, I plan on taking the bike to a LBS but I've been having a wee look online at stems on SJS Cycles, how do I know if it's a 1", 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" Quill stem that I need?

And Fab Foodie, thanks for that link, I've bookmarked it to have a read through and will try and make a few adjustments. Apart from the height of it, I didn't realise there was much to the saddle position....
 

Paulus

Started young, and still going.
Location
Barnet,
l-mac said:
, but is possibly too good a bike for an unfit newbie like me who won't do it justice!)

Dawes bikes are very good, and the Horizon will give you a good introduction to road cycling. Don't do your self down, if you like it give it a go.
 
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