Advice on first ‘Retro build’….DECISION MADE !!

[sevenfourate]

Have been considering a ‘frame-up’ build for some time. Likely a fairly relaxed geometry, steel framed type road bike for general use. Perhaps retro paint and looks for the most part: with more modern wheels / gearing where possible. And as many really hardy finished / stainless components / fixings as possible for year round use in a Seaside town….

I’m very mechanically minded, have been messing with and modifying motorbikes, cars and bikes for quite some decades - and that doesn’t phase me. LBS can do anything I can’t 😎 ***I’ve NOT built a bike from parts from a bare-bones start though.

I’m not sure EXACTLY what I do want; but my real question is:

Is there anything I should absolutely avoid ?
I can buy a frame from ‘eBay’ as easily as the next man. But if I’m going to struggle to find bottom brackets that will work, derailleur hangers that will fit, hubs to mate with an obscure rear stay width etc etc I’m best to know now.

Is there any particular era I’m best to avoid, a Country of manufacture or indeed a manufacturer?

Any and all advice appreciated 🙏

 

[Andy in Germany]

Have been considering a ‘frame-up’ build for some time. Likely a fairly relaxed geometry, steel framed type road bike for general use. Perhaps retro paint and looks for the most part: with more modern wheels / gearing where possible. And as many really hardy finished / stainless components / fixings as possible for year round use in a Seaside town….

I’m very mechanically minded, have been messing with and modifying motorbikes, cars and bikes for quite some decades - and that doesn’t phase me. LBS can do anything I can’t 😎 ***I’ve NOT built a bike from parts from a bare-bones start though.

I’m not sure EXACTLY what I do want; but my real question is:

Is there anything I should absolutely avoid ?
I can buy a frame from ‘eBay’ as easily as the next man. But if I’m going to struggle to find bottom brackets that will work, derailleur hangers that will fit, hubs to mate with an obscure rear stay width etc etc I’m best to know now.

Is there any particular era I’m best to avoid, a Country of manufacture or indeed a manufacturer?

Any and all advice appreciated 🙏

I bought a bike with a frame that I wanted and worked from there, that way I had some components which I knew fitted and could replace the rest.

 

[sevenfourate]

I bought a bike with a frame that I wanted and worked from there, that way I had some components which I knew fitted and could replace the rest.

I had considered buying a mostly whole bike as a start point too 👍

Upgrading / swapping components infront of you and having part numbers, being able to measure etc is one thing.

Knowing what will work together and starting with a blank piece of paper - is different altogether…..

 

[Sharky]

If buying a whole bike or just the frame, be wary if the seat post and handlebar stem is still in place. Check that they are not seized.

 

[Specialeyes]

My only thing to avoid is French donor bikes, as the BB and pedal threads stand a good chance of being, well, French

Oh, and definitely steel over aluminium frames for ease of widening the rear triangle if needs be (which isn't as scary a prospect as many make it out to be - particularly if you use a length of threaded bar, nuts and penny washers to spread the stays rather than the more brutish 'have at it with a length of 4x2 timber' approach!)

 

[fossyant]

BB that is BSA, or at a push, Italian 🤔

Hangers are usually part of the drop out on older steel bikes.

 

[wafter]

Personally I'd look for a whole bike and replace knackered parts as necessary; this route likely to be a quicker path to getting something serviceable rather than having to wait because you've bought a bare frame and need to source every single component. I suspect buying a complete bike might be cheaper than buying in bits too; as someone stripping one is more likely to be doing so for profit.

In your position my money would be on one of the later Raleigh tourers - Touriste, Royal or if you want to be really posh a Randonneur (the latter especially would deserve to be a sympathetic, period-correct rebuild to be well-looked-after). I also think the slightly earlier Raleigh Classics look lovely (burgundy with chrome socks) however these have 27" wheels which could be a bit of a pain though limited tyre choice.

Personally I'd go no older than maybe the early '80s as before this is when you'll start encountering cotter pin cranks, which are a pain (although could presumably be replaced with something more modern). Also there's the wheel situation; with 27" really dying out in the mid-80s.

Be aware that foreign stuff will have different threads (and BB standards), but typically domestic stuff apparently has some really queer imperial threads too. Also be aware that anything vintage will run fewer speeds on the rear (typically 5-7 speeds) with freewheels as opposed to freehubs & cassettes and correspondingly tighter axle spacing (typically 120mm or 126mm at the rear) making it less straightforward to fit newer 8sp+ bits unless you're prepared to brutalise the frame a bit.

It seems that the great cycle value crash has come knocking at the door of nicer vintage tourers too; saw a respectable-looking Randonneur sell on ebay with one bid on the starting price of £150...

 

[Jameshow]

more fun building one up!
I'd go for 8-10 spd campy or Shimano

You could also go for a British frame builder like Mercian, bob Jackson, Ellis Briggs, woodrup, Ribble Dolan etc etc.

 

[Drago]

Good wheels. Nice hubs on Wolber rims if you can find them.

 

[bonzobanana]

I'd be looking on ebay, facebook marketplace, gumtree etc for some real bargain that takes your fancy and I'd be looking at perhaps multiple bikes. I.e. It could be one bike not in your size with all the components you want and perhaps another bike in less than ideal condition of that right size. You may even be able to create the bike you want and sell on the other bike with the other parts to finance the bike you are keeping.

I personally like the patina look myself rather than bother with respraying etc. Not only is it cheaper just to give it a more basic clean up, t-cut etc but it means the bike is less of a thief magnet.

I seem to remember reading a few years ago someone bought a lightweight columbus tubed Italian road bike and restored it at great expense only for the frame to fail almost immediately when he started riding it. It was a very lightweight frame with butted tubes and the corrosion had eaten partly through the thin sections of the tube and the frame was toast. So personally I wouldn't go too performance/lightweight for an older steel road bike unless you are sure corrosion hasn't taken a foot hold. Straight/plain gauge tubes of the cheaper steel road bikes or touring bikes will be the better option the older the steel bike gets.

Retrobike has some old pdf catalogues for older bikes you could browse some of those to see what sort of bikes appeal. Some people like brands associated with racing, others are more focused on craftsmanship or maybe a brand from their childhood. Personally I'm drawn to older Raleighs, Carltons and Dawes bikes like the Galaxy.

 

[Cycleops]

more fun building one up!
I'd go for 8-10 spd campy or Shimano

You could also go for a British frame builder like Mercian, bob Jackson, Ellis Briggs, woodrup, Ribble Dolan etc etc.

Personally I'd go for 9 speed, the sweet spot. Prices are reasonable.

As for one of those classic frame builders great idea but you'll need deep pockets for a nice one. Perhaps go for one of those suggested by @bonzobanana above.

All steel frame with a threaded BB will take modern Shimano Hollowtech cranks. You may need to widen the rear triangle dropouts for modern spacing, plenty of videos on YouTube.

Good luck.

 

[Chris S]

Don't get a donor bike with steel wheels unless you're going to replace them. They won't stop in the rain.

 

[sevenfourate]

Don't get a donor bike with steel wheels unless you're going to replace them. They won't stop in the rain.

Ha ! Donor bike would only ever be for F+F. Everthing else would be replaced or new. Inc non chromed rims 😎

 

[chris667]

27" wheels are harder to find. That leaves 700c, which means bikes made after 1989ish, unless you buy deeper drop brakes (which you might be doing anyway).

Some real round-the-world touring bikes used 650A (like old 3-speeds). 650b is almost a drop-in replacement for those.

Everything else would more or less fit providing the bottom bracket's OK.

I would avoid looking for anything too exotic. 531 or 501. Thinner walled tubes make the bike a bit lighter, but they also pick up dents and there's less to rust. Really thoroughbred racers weren't built to last a long time.

 

[Jameshow]

27" wheels are harder to find. That leaves 700c, which means bikes made after 1989ish, unless you buy deeper drop brakes (which you might be doing anyway).

Some real round-the-world touring bikes used 650A (like old 3-speeds). 650b is almost a drop-in replacement for those.

Everything else would more or less fit providing the bottom bracket's OK.

I would avoid looking for anything too exotic. 531 or 501. Thinner walled tubes make the bike a bit lighter, but they also pick up dents and there's less to rust. Really thoroughbred racers weren't built to last a long time.

531 is nice. Tange is too as is 4130 Cro mo stuff without being stupid priced!