Advice on doing up an old tourer

[jay clock]

I have the chance of acquiring an old but tidy looking tourer for my daughter. It has 27 x 1 1/4 rims, 5 speed screw on block and a larger front double chainring

It looks like there may be enough reach on the brakes to fit another pair of 700c wheels I have (that needs checking). They will take an 8 speed cassette. Will I have issues in chainline etc? I am tempted in any case to upgrade the chainset and rear mech. However it has non indexed downtube changers, so I am thinking a change of levers into STIs might to make the whole thing uneconomic. But the frame is very nice - 531.

Also, any sugegstions for best place for 27 inch tyres?

Any comments or advice very welcome! If anyone has cheap components to suit, let me know too!

 

[Tim Bennet.]

I would stick with the 27 inch wheels as Wiggle has Panaracer Pasellas in that size which would be my choice even if you switched to 700c!

Screw on free wheels are also okay. Mrs TB still uses hers after 25 years because she likes her Maxicar hubs so much. Bar end shifters are a good way to go with tourers. I'm sure you can still get Shimano Ultegra 8 speed. They index fine with 5 / 6 speed.

Depending on her size and age you might want to spend some money on a triple at the front to give her a good spread of gears and possible shorter cranks.

 

[domtyler]

You want to 'do' an old tourer? What happened to Tourist Tony? I'm sure he would be obliging.

 

[PatrickPending]

27" tyres don't seem to be a problem, both my local bike shops stock them so try your local shop. If you do end up using 700c wheels you can indeed run it as an 8 speed - my commuter a carlton continental is running 9 speed with 105 sti shifters on 27" wheels so no problem there - apart from there might be brake reach issues going from 27" to 700c.

 

[Fab Foodie]

Halfrauds do some 27 inchers also including Conti's.
Let us know how it goes, have a similar project bike in the garage awaiting respray funds as the next step, 531 BRitish Eagle Touristique. Will keep the DT shifters for cost and simplicity.

Could you have the rear-end cold-sprung to accept a new 130 OLN hub and have 9/10 speed? Have had mine sprung a tad to take 135mm MTB hubs.

 

[Paul_Smith SRCC]

As others have said tyres will not be a problem, rims as and when they need a rebuild are also still available, but the choice is more limited than it is for the tyres, it would be then that you may finally chose to go for 700c

Any quality LBS that stocks the popular manufacturers, Continental and Schwalbe will be able to order them in for you should they not have them from stock

Paul Smith
www.bikeplus.co.uk

I have the chance of acquiring an old but tidy looking tourer for my daughter. It has 27 x 1 1/4 rims, 5 speed screw on block and a larger front double chainring

It looks like there may be enough reach on the brakes to fit another pair of 700c wheels I have (that needs checking). They will take an 8 speed cassette. Will I have issues in chainline etc? I am tempted in any case to upgrade the chainset and rear mech. However it has non indexed downtube changers, so I am thinking a change of levers into STIs might to make the whole thing uneconomic. But the frame is very nice - 531.

Also, any sugegstions for best place for 27 inch tyres?

Any comments or advice very welcome! If anyone has cheap components to suit, let me know too!

 

[beanzontoast]

I did up an old Dawes Galaxy that started out very much like the bike you describe. I replaced the wheels with 700c because I didn't want to be limited when it came to tyres in future, and went to cassette. The original brakes still reached ok when adjusted. I left the non-indexed downtube shifters alone, but replaced the original double with a 48-38-28 triple. Getting onto the smallest ring isn't easy, but realistically, I hardly ever use it so I'm not that bothered. New seat and nice new bar tape and job done!

The biggest issue was the rear dropout which is slightly sprung by the new wheel and cassette. I haven't had it cold set, nor attempted to do it myself. The amount of springing is about 5mm - hardly a chasm - and I've made myself a little tool (short length of broom handle with carved groove on each end, with a felt pad to protect the paintwork) which, when inserted and pushed upwards, takes the pressure off the stays for removing the wheel easily.

 

[jay clock]

Great news - I got it for £12.50!!! A bargain. I would be surprised if it had done more than 50 miles. Dusty, tyres persished but the break blocks look original and unworn, and the drivetrain almost mint and no wear.

I would like to remove the suicide levers - it looks like they are integral. I would be happy to replace with standard levers, ideally with cables hidden under the bar tape. Any ideas on where to get these?

here it is:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=230169080526++&fvi=1

 

[PatrickPending]

Great news - I got it for £12.50!!! A bargain. I would be surprised if it had done more than 50 miles. Dusty, tyres persished but the break blocks look original and unworn, and the drivetrain almost mint and no wear.

I would like to remove the suicide levers - it looks like they are integral. I would be happy to replace with standard levers, ideally with cables hidden under the bar tape. Any ideas on where to get these?

here it is:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=230169080526++&fvi=1

Hi, Shimano do a set of brake levers like you desire

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=13672

I fitted a pair of these a while back on my old carlton, cables hidden under the bar tape, they worked well too. I went on to STI (105s) a year later though - not due to any problems with the brake levers though, just upgraaded it to a 9 speed casette and could then take advantage of the advantages of STI levers....

Have fun!