Advice on 2006 Roubaix s-works

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IBarrett

Über Member
Location
Nottingham
a guy in my club has advertised a Roubaix S-works which I've found out is from 2006
I'm test riding it later today but the only road bike I've owned is my Giant Defy1 Aluxx so I'm after a but if advice.

It does look fantastically looked after. His history shows he takes very seriously looking after his bikes.
He posted his photos of the last strip down, clean, replace and he's had everything in bits with new chain, cassette, BB and cables. Proper OCD stuff.

So my questions
Where do I need to look for issues in the frame. I'm 13st 5lb so I'll be looking closely at the BB area because I also like hills so that will get some hammer.

It has campagnolo chorus drivetrain which I've been warned are very expensive. Coming from a Shimano 105 equipped bike is this an upgrade worth moving to and sod the expense?

I had trouble finding new stem bearings for my 2012 bike. Am I going to have even more problems with a 2006 bike or do Specialized have better support for older stuff?

It's not cheap and I've seen Roubaix 5 years newer for a similar price. Is this because there is a range of Roubaix and it's an s-works ?

Wheels are Mavic ksyrium elite. I have Aksum which can flex under big load. Are the Ksyrium a step up in keeping with a quality bike?
I haven't researched the wheels yet, concentrating on the frame etc. So I'll go read up on them now.

Thanks for your help.
 
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It would depend a lot on how many miles he put on the bike, I consigned a 2007 BH carbon frame to the tip last year as it was getting very bendy and showed lots of cracks in the laquer at stress points. Yesterday I finally gave up on a 2010 Battaglin frame as the droputs are worn so much ( multiple wheels changes and used on a turbo cant change the dropouts as part of the frame) and the rear triangle seems to have warped so that the tyre rubs on the non-drive side chainstay. (took it to a bike shop advised best to give up on it un-repairable). I took up a 2013 Kuota at the same time to the shop as that seems to be going the same way ie wheel closer to the non drive side and they confirmed it was sitting the wheel closer to the non drive side, it was the frame not the wheel that is the problem.
In my mind a 2006 carbon non classic bike is not worth a lot even if its mint,are the componets the same age? from my experience check the rear wheel sits in the rear triangle squarely. Apart from that just go for a ride and see how it feels and give it a good check over.Check the rims are not concave I have binned several wheels due to worn concave rims, if they are worn its going to cost you new wheels soon.
 
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