Adriatic Coast

[clid61]

Hi all. I'm planning on flying out to Tivat (visiting Parc Lovcen first), then riding up the coast to Split, ferry to Ancona then up through Italy to Lyon. That's the rough idea.
Not been in this neck of the woods before, planning on wild camping , B&B , campsite. Any advice experiences , do and don't advice appreciated too .
Thank you

 

[contadino]

I wouldn't wild camp in Italy.

The Adriatic coast north of Molise is pretty ugly. The southern part is much nicer.

If it were me, I'd do it the other way around. Head for Santa Maria di Leuca, follow the coast to Pescara or Anona and then cross over and head up the East coast of the Adriatic.

 

[Blue Hills]

I wouldn't wild camp in Italy.

Could you elaborate contadino?

 

[andym]

My advice would be similar to Contadino's (ie avoid Italy's Adriatic coast north of Puglia).

The SS16, the main road along the coast, would be my hot favourite for Italy's Most Boring Road. It's the sort of road where even the sight of a petrol station (and therefore a bar and a cup of coffee) can raise your spirits like seeing an oasis in the desert. If you zoom in on the map you'll see that for much of the way it runs beside the rail line. The rail line is on an embankment and so you don't even get to see the sea. Check Google Streetview and you'll see what I mean.

There is an alternative to the SS16: the Ciclovia Adriatica a lot of local authorities in seaside resorts have invested in cycleways.

And if you're thinking unspoilt beaches, forget it. Sadly a lot of this coastline has been taken over by private lidos, and in the tourist season people pay serious amounts of money to rent a few metres of space on the beach (OK technically they are renting an ombrellone and a couple of sun loungers, but the effect is the same).

My suggestions would be to either head further north on the Croatian/Slovenijan coast and then get a ferry to Venezia (IIRC there are ferries from Rovinj and Pula). Or even continue to Trieste or Grado and then up into Slovenija and Austria. I suspect though that the Croatian coast may be just as over-developed as the Italian coast.

Alternatively if you really want to do the Ancona thing, one possibility to consider going over the Apennines into Umbria. The regions have spent a lot of money building a faster link over the Apennines via Fabiano (the SS76). The old road is still there and should be blissfully quiet (I did sections of it a few years ago). I would research this alternative carefully though.

You don't say when you are planning to travel, but seriously, if you possibly can, avoid going in August.

 

[clid61]

Thanks for replies, considered East coast.sounds like the better option ! Looking at September/October .

 

[contadino]

North of Puglia, the best scenery can be found by heading 30km inland. Towns like Ascoli Piceno, Urbino (stunning), Tolentino, Jesi are all lovely. It's just the strip that runs along the coast that is grotty.

Of course, you need good legs if you head inland....

 

[contadino]

Could you elaborate contadino?

You run a fairly high risk of being shot.

September is the start of the hunting season too, so the countryside is buzzing with drunk old gits with guns. And that's on top of the jittery folk being whipped up into a frenzy about an invasion of immigrants by the right wing press.

Fatal 'hunting accidents' increased by about 300% last year.

 

[clid61]

Charming, bit like Moss Side with sunshine !

 

[andym]

Thanks for replies, considered East coast.sounds like the better option ! Looking at September/October .

Before you get carried away - the Croatian/Slovenijan coast may also have been trashed by tourist development. An hour or two with Google Streetview would be a good test.

A lot of campsites close at the end of September.

 

[clid61]

Cheers for that !

 

[Jimmy Doug]

I cycled from Nice to the Adriatic coast, then hugged it down with the intention of cycling to Sicily. It was the worst long distance ride I've ever done - which is why I eventually abandoned it. The first part (from Nice to Ravenna) was great - just hard work in the hills. But after that it was mostly very busy roads, choking fumes and town after town after town. And I have a very bad memory of Ancona particularly - I found it very difficult not to end up on the motorway. If it were me now, I'd avoid the Adriatic completely and cycle through the interior - although it would obviously be very hard work because of the mountains. I love Italy, and it has some fantastic cycling, but that Adriatic route is dreadful until you get to the Gargano coastal road which is superb.

 

[Blue Hills]

You run a fairly high risk of being shot.

September is the start of the hunting season too, so the countryside is buzzing with drunk old gits with guns. And that's on top of the jittery folk being whipped up into a frenzy about an invasion of immigrants by the right wing press.

Fatal 'hunting accidents' increased by about 300% last year.

Thanks for the reply contadino. I have heard a fair lot of gunfire in sardinia (and maybe less common now but many road signs were shot full of bullet holes which looks/looked somewhat wild west) and the italians i know are likely to scoff, or worse, at the hunters, but is the danger really that great? How many deaths? Any reason you use quotes around "accidents"?

 

[andym]

Here's one:

http://www.lastampa.it/2010/08/23/i...-cinghiale-zewW2FPc6mxw5Ih2RjX2GL/pagina.html

 

[psmiffy]

Among those calling for an outright ban is Daniela Casprini, head of the Association of Hunting Victims. "The question is no longer about who is for and who is against hunting. This is to stop a true massacre," Casprini said.

Ive often wild camped in Italy - Ive never heard a shot - however, it is always been before the season opens - the hunting one that is - and I am a bit deaf - it is the fireworks I dont like - just nodding off and and there they blow.

Wild camping on the Croatian side is another matter - have to be careful about the landmines

Yup - the Italian Adriatic coast north of Ancona can be a bit naff - Ive done it a couple of times - but its relatively flat, easy riding and the sea is there for a quick dip every now and then if you can find a spiaggia free of beach chairs - Ive always scurried a bit to get to where I wanted to be to start my proper tour from - Ancona for the boat or further north to cross to Sienna - no more than two to three days - personally I would stay on the Croatian side - either inland or toddle through the Islands - Pag is worth the effort - the coast road Ive been told can be busy - but I cannot recall it being so

 

[contadino]

Thanks for the reply contadino. I have heard a fair lot of gunfire in sardinia (and maybe less common now but many road signs were shot full of bullet holes which looks/looked somewhat wild west) and the italians i know are likely to scoff, or worse, at the hunters, but is the danger really that great? How many deaths? Any reason you use quotes around "accidents"?

Via warmshowers I've hosted people who've had their tents set on fire (with them in it) and one nursing buckshot injuries - all since the hunting season finished in January.

Lipu reported 113 fatalities in 2015, up from 32 in 2014.