700x25c where did they go?

[Ed no-more-lemons]

Simple thing, but I'm unsure a replacement 23c would sit well on me dodgy front rim.

There seem to be few options in 25c online under £35 (the pair not in yellow)and at these prices I am thinking a new front wheel to match the back may work out on cheaper, decent 23c tyres.

Question is, is the difference between 23c and 25c so negligible and or variable that 23c may well provide the same road perfornce as the old tyres?

 

[mcshroom]

I've not used 23s myself (though I have two 23mm krylion carbons waiting in a box for me to be brave), but I can't see there would be a massive difference between the two.

In 25mm though Vittoria Zaffiros have always got decent reviews and are £8 a go at wiggle (black or orange varieties)

 

[biggs682]

lbs have schwable (hs280 i think) in 700 x 25 using a pr on latest fixie very good

 

[the_mikey]

There are plenty of 25c tyres out there, even Continental have launched a hard wearing 25c only version of their grand prix tyre called Grand Prix GT, which might be an option, I find 25C tyres different to 23C in terms of comfort, and I will only use 25C during the winter months.

 

[sidevalve]

Have used 23 and 25 [both at the cheaper end and on the same old rims] and had no problems.

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

I don't understand why you think different tyres would make affect whether a rim is safe or not: if it's unsafe with a 23mm tyre, it'll be unsafe with any tyre.

Good tyres cost more, because er... they're good. A wheel and a tyre for £35? I doubt either would warrant the description "decent".

With the weather on the turn, wider tyres would be a wise investment in any case: I'm readying this year's Winter bike and have dusted off a pair of 28mm tyres (I use 23mm during the Summer and 25mm for Audax).

You won't notice the difference between 23mm and 25mm in terms of speed and rolling resistance; you'll probably notice the difference in terms of comfort; you will notice the difference when you don't go down the road on your backside cause the skinny rubber reached its limit.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

I don't understand why you think different tyres would make affect whether a rim is safe or not

It's not that the wheel or rim is deformed or weak, but simply that the existing 25c tyre does not sit as proud or comfortably as the back one.does.
I agree a new wheel and tyre at £35 would be a bargain. What I meant was that instead of shelling out on two dear 25c tyres, I might buy two cheaper 23c tyres and a more appropriate front wheel. Which I probably need anyway as I've little idea where this wheel came from and suspect it to be designed for 28c or similar.
Comfort and not coming off dodging potholes is the aim. So I don't think I am ready to move onto something I've never used from something I've always used on 700 rims.
The hunt goes on. Hopefully LBS can turn something up. I guess a new double skin wheel would be £20-£30, which I can put of for now, new tyres I cannot.

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

I agree, it sounds like the tyre is too narrow for the rim: have you seen Sheldon's guide (the red & green table near the bottom of the page)?

At this time of year, if I had to be buying news tyres or wheels, I'd be putting a Winter (ie wider) set together. I don't see much difference in price between tyres of different widths (not a 2mm difference anyway), but more in the quality: cheap 23mm tyres will be cheap because they're low quality, not because they're thinner.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

Hi
I had a look over Sheldons guide, you have linked before posting here. Although I never got further than the table on French tyre sizes, as I felt that the article had confirmed what I already suspected.
I am not overly concerned about the upcoming winter as I am running a more leisurely and retro machine placed on 27-1 1/4 wheels for more general use.
However something a bit more lively is always a bonus for dry days and as I replace tyres so rarely a good general purpose pair is what I am after.
The old tyres were superb, not seen any to match yet. "SCHWALBE EXTRA LEIGHT SKIN25", wired with beige(nylon?) sidewalls and a non patterned, ridged tread design.
It would be good to get some replacements that look similar to this traditional setup.

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

Have a look on Retrobike: plenty of suggestions for "period" tyres there.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

Thanks I will do that, there also seems to be more Ebay options posted today.
As this is a project for my avatar's wheels and a new/old Dawes Renown frame, theres plenty of other bits to do before I need to fit tyres. But I'm itching to try a couple of test rides on a minimal biuld.

 

[PpPete]

Ooh - Dawes Renown ! Nice !
I had a knackered old one with a bent chainstay and fubar'd derailleur hanger as the basis of a fixed wheel until quite recently. Very sprightly ride in spite of the damage.
Still have the original narrow (and very light) Rigida rims on the Maillard hubs. Nothing special to look at, but in daily use on the current fixed, with definitely non-period Bonti Hardcase Racelite 25s. Pretty sure they'd work with 23s too.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

Thanks for your comments Pete. I'm thinking 25s of whatever variety are my prefered choice.

I'm looking to fit a suitable 6 or 7 speed freewheel and overhauling the rear hub at the least before I can get a true feel for this bike.
It does on the face of it, all look OK. having stripped it down and having begun to remove the worst of the rust.
The only bit still stuck to the frame, is the metal facing enclosure too the top headset race.
I'm of to try and shift this from the the steerer tube in daylight and escape the PC.

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

I've got some freewheels knocking about that I won't use: give me a shout if you need one.

 

[Ed no-more-lemons]

I appreiciate your offer Scilly Suffolk.
But I am planning on making do with what I've got for the time being as far as wheels and freewheels, so I can clock some mileage, before the inevitable paint job.
In the meantime I will store her or him? indoors. I have a knackered 13-28 tooth seven speed for testing, along with a chain and crank wheel with equal wear from my avatar. This block can be passed by the chainstay while the wheel is being sprung into the dropouts 130mm into 126mm.
Eventually I hope to use a threaded bar too move to 130mm or perhaps to experiment with a narrower block with 12 teeth for top gear. Which should be good as I've never owned such a light frame before and at nearly 6' 5" few that have been an ideal size. I would also be new to 12 toothed cogs

Nothing left to do now as far a removing components so I had better be off for a spin instead of merely bimbling on about cycling.