2007 Rock Shox Reba SL
- Thread starter mattft86
- Start date
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any help for a dope
Steve Austin
The Marmalade Kid
- Location
- Mlehworld
If they are new, you will have to cut the steerer down, as it'll be about two foot long.
As for fitting any bike, well, what bike have you got?
I would say it will fit most MTB's but you might have something really odd, so i can't say for definite.
As for fitting any bike, well, what bike have you got?
I would say it will fit most MTB's but you might have something really odd, so i can't say for definite.
Steve Austin
The Marmalade Kid
- Location
- Mlehworld
No worries then. and they will work a lot better than the rubbish on there before!
Steve Austin
The Marmalade Kid
- Location
- Mlehworld
The fork steerer you want to buy are 1 1/8 wide as are the forks steerer on your bike.
There are only 3 possible widths.
1" old roadbikes
1 1/8" Nearly every single MTB and most current roadbikes
1 1/2" a few DH MTBs
now unless your Mongoose is very unusual (its not) it will be fine.
There are only 3 possible widths.
1" old roadbikes
1 1/8" Nearly every single MTB and most current roadbikes
1 1/2" a few DH MTBs
now unless your Mongoose is very unusual (its not) it will be fine.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Is this a springy thing then.... you don't need it !! It's all rubbish !!!
ed_o_brain
Guest
As for getting the steerer cut, any LBS (Local Bike Shop) will do this for a small nominal fee.
What follows is just simply my advice. I would check it with other sources and have a chat down at your LBS first. I've not yet pulled apart my MTB, which by coincidence has the same fork, so I'm speculating slightly with these instructions as most my experience is with road bikes.
I would fit the fork to the new fork to the bike (it's an allen key job), slide on your spacers and handlebars, and then mark on the steer the top of the handlebar stem clamp. Or, having removed the old fork from the bike, measure the steerer length. This is of course, assuming you are happy with the height of the handlebars you currently have. If they are too high, and you have spacers between the headset and the handlebar stem, you might want your new steerer cut a bit shorter and then leave out some of the spacers when you reassemble. Or, if they are too low, you might want to do the opposite and get some extra spacers to raise the handlebars.
Your LBS will need to cut about 5 mm below this line.
Removing the old fork is quite easy. If you don't have a cycle repair stand, you may need an extra pair of hands to help you.
Prerequisite: Remove the front wheel.
1. There are two allen bolts on the back of the handlebar stem where it clamps around the steerer. With the bike on the ground, undo these. It shouldn't be necessary to completely unscrew them, but still be careful not to lose them.
2. At the top of the steerer is a compression bolt that goes through the top cap which is on the top of the steerer. It might be under a rubber cap which you can prize out gently with the end of a flat bladed screwdriver. Still with the bike on the ground, undo and remove the bolt, lift off the top cap and put in a safe place. Lift off the handle bars, and give them to your assistant to hold with one hand. (S/He will need his other later)
3. If you have any spacers - these are like collar things that go around the steerer between the top of the headtube and the underside of the handle bar stem, slide these up off the steerer. Put in safe place.
4. Below the spacers (if applicable) should be the top set of bearings for the headset. These maybe secured by a centre sleeve which goes around the steerer, it has a wedge profile and a gap in it. You may need to (with the bike on the ground), gently, using a flat bladed screwdriver if necessary, prise this up and off the steerer in order to then slide the fork off the bike - but hold on for step 5 before removing the fork.
5. This is where you will need your assistant comes in handy again. With his/her free hand, get your assistant to lift the bike up, mainly the front end. You can then slide the forks out from underneath the bike, but be attentive. If you headset has loose bearings, you may need to carefully lower the fork/raise the bike up and collect up the bearings before they fly off everywhere. Note carefully how the headset components seperate (if ineed they do) for reassembly.
One the old fork is removed, where are the crown race? This is the race from bottom set of bearings from the headset? The race maybe wedged onto the crown of your old fork. Or maybe not. If so, you will probably need your LBS to remove the race from your old fork and fit it to your new fork. Or a new headset might be easier. They could do this for you when you get the steerer cut, if you take the old forks in with you.
Even without the crown race, you can loosely reassemble the bike to see where the new steerer needs to be cut, or measure up on the old steerer.
What follows is just simply my advice. I would check it with other sources and have a chat down at your LBS first. I've not yet pulled apart my MTB, which by coincidence has the same fork, so I'm speculating slightly with these instructions as most my experience is with road bikes.
I would fit the fork to the new fork to the bike (it's an allen key job), slide on your spacers and handlebars, and then mark on the steer the top of the handlebar stem clamp. Or, having removed the old fork from the bike, measure the steerer length. This is of course, assuming you are happy with the height of the handlebars you currently have. If they are too high, and you have spacers between the headset and the handlebar stem, you might want your new steerer cut a bit shorter and then leave out some of the spacers when you reassemble. Or, if they are too low, you might want to do the opposite and get some extra spacers to raise the handlebars.
Your LBS will need to cut about 5 mm below this line.
Removing the old fork is quite easy. If you don't have a cycle repair stand, you may need an extra pair of hands to help you.
Prerequisite: Remove the front wheel.
1. There are two allen bolts on the back of the handlebar stem where it clamps around the steerer. With the bike on the ground, undo these. It shouldn't be necessary to completely unscrew them, but still be careful not to lose them.
2. At the top of the steerer is a compression bolt that goes through the top cap which is on the top of the steerer. It might be under a rubber cap which you can prize out gently with the end of a flat bladed screwdriver. Still with the bike on the ground, undo and remove the bolt, lift off the top cap and put in a safe place. Lift off the handle bars, and give them to your assistant to hold with one hand. (S/He will need his other later)
3. If you have any spacers - these are like collar things that go around the steerer between the top of the headtube and the underside of the handle bar stem, slide these up off the steerer. Put in safe place.
4. Below the spacers (if applicable) should be the top set of bearings for the headset. These maybe secured by a centre sleeve which goes around the steerer, it has a wedge profile and a gap in it. You may need to (with the bike on the ground), gently, using a flat bladed screwdriver if necessary, prise this up and off the steerer in order to then slide the fork off the bike - but hold on for step 5 before removing the fork.
5. This is where you will need your assistant comes in handy again. With his/her free hand, get your assistant to lift the bike up, mainly the front end. You can then slide the forks out from underneath the bike, but be attentive. If you headset has loose bearings, you may need to carefully lower the fork/raise the bike up and collect up the bearings before they fly off everywhere. Note carefully how the headset components seperate (if ineed they do) for reassembly.
One the old fork is removed, where are the crown race? This is the race from bottom set of bearings from the headset? The race maybe wedged onto the crown of your old fork. Or maybe not. If so, you will probably need your LBS to remove the race from your old fork and fit it to your new fork. Or a new headset might be easier. They could do this for you when you get the steerer cut, if you take the old forks in with you.
Even without the crown race, you can loosely reassemble the bike to see where the new steerer needs to be cut, or measure up on the old steerer.
