1958 raleigh roadster

[timthumb]

i started another thread about the above bikes battery pack but as i look more at the bike i get the hunger to want to know more

where do i start looking for catalogues and are there any other people out there that have done a restoring of the above bike

its becoming more interesting by the minute

any user manuals etc

i know i dont want much do i )

 

[tyred]

Have you got any pictures or have I just gone blind?

Roadsters generally came in two flavours at that time. There is the traditional roadster with rod brakes, usually, but not always with fully enclosed chain (a mixed blessing). Single, 3 and 4 speed versions were available, occasionally you may come across coaster or drum brakes on them. Dynohubs are also common. The fact yours has a DBU would suggest the upmarket Superb model, probably with one of the fancier Brooks triple sprung saddles. The correct model name for one of these is the DL-1 for the single speed and DL-1 Tourist for the geared one and they were in producution in Nottingham from about 1913 to 1985. They were also badged as other members of the Raleigh family. Here is my Rudge, which is basically the same thing with a different fork crown.

There is also the "light" Roadster or Sports bike. Similar in many ways but much lighter, cable caliper brakes, more sporting frame geometry, 26" wheels (stainless steel rims if you're lucky) and probably a more basic Brooks B66 saddle or maybe a vinyl mattress saddle.

Both are fine machines, you won't win the TdF but fast enough for normal cycling, and supremely comfortable and practical. Be wary of rod operated brakes, they are adequate in dry but absolute shoot in the wet. You get used to it. Raleigh specific parts like headsets and BB cups can be difficult to find as the threading was different to the norm but in reality, these parts were of such high quality that nearly everything can be re-used.

You will find information here.

 

[timthumb]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/63234503@N03/

hope these are pics

 

[tyred]

That would seem to be a Superb. Very nice condition too. The paintwork might even be original and the rims are in good condition which is the important part of these as they are difficult to find. Really just needs a clean and a service. Be careful with the front hub as Raleigh had a different design to most others and it needs to be put back into the forks in a certain way. There are no cone locknuts and if it's put in wrong, the cone tightens up the bearing. I would definitely recommend the LED bulbs for the lamps. Makes a huge difference. Whatever you do, DO NOT separate the magnet and armature in the dynamo or it will never work again. If you need to work on the hub, the dynamo part slides out once you have undone the small brass nuts that you will see if you look through the hub from the right. Sheldon Brown has a guide to these but they last well and some fresh oil will work wonders.

Stripping one of these down requires a fair amount of work compared to any other bike. There are a lot of little plates which come off around the chaincase which will allow removal of the back wheel. It will be necessary to split the chain. There should be a joining link if you look, the old fashioned type with a kind of circlip which pops off to allow the side plate to come off. If you need to work on the bottom bracket, the important point of cotter pin removal is to hit them hard. Some people will gently tip-tap at them and rivet them in.

 

[timthumb]

wow you really have some expert knowledge ...im a complete amateur when it comes to bicycles i just like the look of the old girl

i just dont know where to start as i need her for a run in the autumn..

tyres defiantly ..brake blocks and clean clean up ? she changes gear well so i hope theres not too much amiss

 

[timthumb]

please tell me more im so interested in the whole superbe thing ...i hope to ride her on the tweed run

 

[tyred]

I think you have an oil port in the front hub and probably the bottom bracket so if they run free with minimal play, I would just oil them through the oil port and leave as is. The SA geared hub will definitely have an oil port. Ideally use SAE 30 which is often sold as lawnmower engine oil or otherwise normal multigrade car engine oil will do fine. The important thing is not to use 3 in 1 in an SA hub as it corrodes and gunges up the internals. There might even be oil ports in the pedal bearings. Also put a spot of oil on all the brake pivot points and on the gear changer trigger and the pulley that the cable runs on.

Tyres or tubes won't be a problem, you will need either 26 x 1 3/8 (not to be confused with MTB tyres) or 28 x 1 1/2 (different from 700c which are sometimes marked as 28") and they cheaply available on ebay. The normal Raleigh Record or Roadster tyres are decent quality and very cheap or you could pay a bit extra for Delta Cruisers and have puncture resistance.

Getting the back wheel out of one of these can be time consuming but isn't difficult. While you have it out, I would take the oppurtunity to change the sprocket for a 22 tooth one, if it hasn't already been done. The standard 46 x 18 gearing is very high for a bike of this weight and is a struggle on hills and top gear is almost unusable but the 22 tooth will make things much easier. The sprockets are only a few quid from ebay but you would need a new chain as well.

The Superb was the top of the Raleigh range with all sorts of built in gadgets like hub dynamo, lights, carrier, chain case, all of which make these a super practical commuter bike. As the entire gear, chain and lighting system is fully enclosed, these bikes are immune to wet weather with no need to constantly clean and lube the chain. Note that how the Dutch still use bikes remarkably similar to these.

 

[Hilldodger]

As tyred said, do as little as you can to it and it will go forever. Unless you have a lot of expereince it would be a shame to disturb anything on it.

It'll be a nice ride, too - we've got several old roadsters in our collection that we lend out to people for historic events.

 

[tyred]

It might be worth your while to read what Sheldon had to say about the Raleigh 3 speed. Pay particular attention to what he says about the front hub as the axle design differs from virtually everything else (although I have found old Raleighs with normal axles). That article is mainly based on the cable braked sports bikes but it all applies apart from the brakes. Sheldon didn't really write anything about rod brakes but they are self-explanatory. The most important thing is to make sure the rim is true and that both pads hit the rim at the same time as this is not a guarantee. If they don't, you need to bend things to suit. Here is a video that explains a little about setting up rod brakes.

 

[timthumb]

watched video great .............tell me more im starting a list of bits to do might even ride her tomorrow

thanks

tim