# Fixed and mudguards



## rb58 (19 Sep 2012)

Hello. I'm a convert and have been riding fixed on and off for a while, and commuting fixed over the past few weeks. However, with winter coming up I'd prefer to have a bike with full mudguards. This is because I cannot bear wet feet and a wet *rse. I also don't want my rather beautiful Pinarello Catena to be ravaged by the winter weather (and it doesn't have mudguard eyes anyway).

So, some recommendations please for a fixed wheel (perhaps flipflop hub) winter commuter that can take full mudguards. I will want drop bars, front and rear brakes with normal road bike brake levers. I'm not interested in putting one together myself from an old frame or anything like that. Budget would top out at £500, less would be better, although more would be possible for the right bike.

What would you reckon I should go and look at?

Thanks.


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## Dan_h (19 Sep 2012)

The Dawes Mono ( http://www.dawescycles.com/p-170-mono.aspx ) comes to mind immediately. The advertised price on the Dawes website is a little over budget but you should be able to get one for around £500 if you shop around a bit.


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## djb1971 (19 Sep 2012)

My Sputnik has full guards, it's on sale (or was) at Evans.


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## GrumpyGregry (19 Sep 2012)

Jamis Sputnik, as above, or stretch the budget and get a Kona Paddy Wagon are the obvious OTS choices given you somewhat precise requirements. Going with road racers or race blades, or indeed P clips if clearances allow, naturally opens up a wider choice.


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## mcshroom (19 Sep 2012)

A tip I was given on a recent ride was to buy the breakaway clips that SKS use for their front guards (about £1.50 at SJS) and fit them to the rear. This allows you to pop the guards and remove the wheel if needed.


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## clarion (19 Sep 2012)

I ride fixed year round, and use RaceBlades, which come off easily for wheel removal, though it's not always necessary. I can see there might be an advantage to using full-length guards in terms of protection, but they are a lot more inconvenient. 

Although the tip above may be a good one. I think I have some of those clips in the bottom of my toolbox.


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## GrumpyGregry (19 Sep 2012)

clarion said:


> I ride fixed year round, and use RaceBlades, which come off easily for wheel removal, though it's not always necessary. I can see there might be an advantage to using full-length guards in terms of protection, but they are a lot more inconvenient.
> 
> Although the tip above may be a good one. I think I have some of those clips in the bottom of my toolbox.


Ere Mr Clarion Sir! Do you use raceblades for convenience or because you ain't got clearance for full guards? Just askin' like guvnor


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## clarion (19 Sep 2012)

Convenience more than anything else. I used them on the tourer as well, which also had adequate clearance. The Ridgeback (essentially the same frame as the Genesis Flyer) has clearance for 700x30c CX tyres for snow, and i usually run 25s, so I could fit full guards in with that.

So why don't I? Well, I think with the tourer, it was the number of times they got bent or pushed out of alignment by leaning the bike against things, or getting on & off trains with inadequate storage. Just got bored of it, I think.


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## djb1971 (19 Sep 2012)

If you haven't got any Sks quick clips, I've found that old campag/shimano downtube lever bolts* with the little flat washers are great. They fasten and undo easily with having the folding wire thumb fastener. It makes it easy to remove the wheel for punctures!

*some younger members may not have a clue what the hell I'm on about


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## biggs682 (19 Sep 2012)

go on build your own its more fun


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## SS Retro (26 Sep 2012)

Dan_h said:


> The Dawes Mono ( http://www.dawescycles.com/p-170-mono.aspx ) comes to mind immediately. The advertised price on the Dawes website is a little over budget but you should be able to get one for around £500 if you shop around a bit.


I just picked one up for £450 from Wheelies on-line (someone can't remember who had them for £360) but only in 48cm frame, nice relaxed 'Audax' geometry complete with full mudguards.


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## 4F (26 Sep 2012)

That looks nice SS Retro


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## dave r (26 Sep 2012)

Pearson Touche
http://www.pearsoncycles.co.uk/store/product/29718/Pearson-Touché-Gunmetal-480mm/
Its a bit above your budget, but it will take full guards and a carrier.
I've had one for five years now, clocked up about 15000 miles on it, it gets used for commuting, general running around and winter Sunday rides/club rides, and its been excellent.
http://www.cyclechat.net/useralbums/daves-bikes.11/view
+1 on the secure clips, plus you can always keep the stays a bit long and give yourself room to pull the wheel out.


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## mickle (26 Sep 2012)

mcshroom said:


> A tip I was given on a recent ride was to buy the breakaway clips that SKS use for their front guards (about £1.50 at SJS) and fit them to the rear. This allows you to pop the guards and remove the wheel if needed.


That is a very brilliant tip indeed.


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## mickle (26 Sep 2012)

Lots of mudguards these days are way too short. I think that if youre going to the effort of fitting some its worth ensuring that they provide decent coverage. 

And mudflaps.


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## fossyant (27 Sep 2012)

The SKS secuclips came fitted to my bike front and rear from the LBS - would have asked for them, but he had already done it. God send with fixed !


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## Nofers (27 Sep 2012)

Try pannier racks as a rear mudguard, awesome


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## palinurus (27 Sep 2012)

I just have regular mudguards, bolted on and with mudflaps. For those rare punctures I unbolt the 'guards- sure it's a tiny bit of a pain in the arse but it's not much extra work. It's more a pain in the arse having to get the chain tension sorted and get the wheel straight-ish in the dropouts (I don't use tugs).


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## Old Plodder (27 Sep 2012)

palinurus said:


> ..... It's more a pain in the arse having to get the chain tension sorted and get the wheel straight-ish in the dropouts (I don't use tugs).


I used to;
Tighten non drive side, adjust & tighten drive side, re adjust non drive side if necessary.


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## palinurus (27 Sep 2012)

I do the same, now I've got a feel for it I'm quite quick at it too.


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## mickle (27 Sep 2012)

SS Retro said:


>


 
These guards are way to short for example. By about a foot each.


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## GrumpyGregry (27 Sep 2012)

mickle said:


> These guards are way to short for example. By about a foot each.


bit like hemlines though innit?


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## l4dva (27 Sep 2012)

I'm a crud road race user on my langster (and they were on my carbon roadie before that too) 

I've never used full guards that bolt on to the frames properly but with the invention of these crud roadrace guards I'm struggling to see how a full on (old fashioned) set would improve on them? I could be totally wrong though as I've never used them, I'm sure someone will correct me on this too. But from what I can see the roadraces cover all the same parts and keep the spray well away as you would expect. I'm very happy with them... Quick (Ish) to fit, easy on the eyes, fairly cheap and light weight, fits onto pretty much any road bike.... Happy days!


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## Old Plodder (28 Sep 2012)

l4dva said:


> I'm a crud road race user on my langster (and they were on my carbon roadie before that too)
> 
> I've never used full guards that bolt on to the frames properly but with the invention of these crud roadrace guards I'm struggling to see how a full on (old fashioned) set would improve on them? I could be totally wrong though as I've never used them, I'm sure someone will correct me on this too. But from what I can see the roadraces cover all the same parts and keep the spray well away as you would expect. I'm very happy with them... Quick (Ish) to fit, easy on the eyes, fairly cheap and light weight, fits onto pretty much any road bike.... Happy days!


Unfortunately, they didn't fit on my GT5, they rubbed the rear tyre; annoying, as my bike isn't a full on roadie.


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## simon.r (28 Sep 2012)

rb58 said:


> So, some recommendations please for a fixed wheel (perhaps flipflop hub) winter commuter that can take full mudguards. I will want drop bars, front and rear brakes with normal road bike brake levers. I'm not interested in putting one together myself from an old frame or anything like that. Budget would top out at £500, less would be better, although more would be possible for the right bike.
> 
> What would you reckon I should go and look at?


 
On One Pompino ticks all your boxes with the possible exception of brakes - cantis fitted. Bags of clearance for proper mudguards and biggish tyres as well if you want.


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## SS Retro (29 Sep 2012)

l4dva said:


> I'm a crud road race user on my langster (and they were on my carbon roadie before that too)
> 
> I've never used full guards that bolt on to the frames properly but with the invention of these crud roadrace guards I'm struggling to see how a full on (old fashioned) set would improve on them? I could be totally wrong though as I've never used them, I'm sure someone will correct me on this too. But from what I can see the roadraces cover all the same parts and keep the spray well away as you would expect. I'm very happy with them... Quick (Ish) to fit, easy on the eyes, fairly cheap and light weight, fits onto pretty much any road bike.... Happy days!


 
They do tend to flop about a bit over traditional guards, not sure if the clip on stays rattle or not?


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