# Tyres and Tube's



## chrisb1357 (15 Mar 2010)

Hi all,

Just waiting for my Giant CRS4 to turn up this week. Question i have (Dont Laugh) is does the road tyres which are listed on the giant spec as *Kenda Kwest 700x35mm*come with inner tubes like MTB's do as they are not listed on the spec. Sorry to ask this question but this is my first hybrid and was not sure and also are these a good tyre to use

Chris


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## HLaB (15 Mar 2010)

Yip the bike will come with tubes, its only when you buy tyres separately that you need to buy tubes.


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## MacB (15 Mar 2010)

yes they will, but don't be surprised if you end up changing them relatively soon, they don't exactly push the boat out on tyres with new bikes

For puncture avoidance running them at proper pressures is important as is checking them for embedded stuff each week. If you don't have one then a resonable track pump, I use the Joe Blow II, is a wise investment.


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## potsy (15 Mar 2010)

I sense another 'what tyre' thread coming


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## chrisb1357 (15 Mar 2010)

LOL i was goign to name it What Tube Thread LOLOL

Chris



potsy said:


> I sense another 'what tyre' thread coming


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## MacB (15 Mar 2010)

potsy said:


> I sense another 'what tyre' thread coming



I know, I nearly started listing X for puncture protection, Y for speed and Z for combination. But it's more fun if we draw these things out


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## chrisb1357 (15 Mar 2010)

Ok, What tyres do you suggest then LOL

and what Tubes

Allready noted that pump down once i get paid. I only have a hand one at the min

Chris


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## potsy (15 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Ok, What tyres do you suggest then LOL
> 
> and what Tubes
> 
> ...


Ask oldtimer what he has,then get something different


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## MacB (15 Mar 2010)

well it comes with 700x35 tyres on rims that will probably be a 19mm internal width, so should take tyres from 28-45mm, upper limit will probably be dictated by frame though, so probably about 700x37. From my reading I'd avoid 28mm on 19 rims as it could give a harsher ride. So I'd be looking at a 700x32 or 700x35 - worth reading up on other threads and the manufacturers sites. Preferred seem to be Continental, Panaracer and Schwalbe. My own recent searches, and experience, led me to the following conclusions:-

Speed and a reasonable puncture protection level, but weaker in sidewall area - Schwalbe Marathon Supreme or Panaracer Ribmo

Fairly speedy and more protective - Schwalbe Marathon or Panaracer Pasela

More puncture protection and still roll well - Panaracer Pasela TG(tour guard)

Ultimate in puncture protection - Schwalbe Marathon Plus - I commute on the 700x35 version of these and have had no punctures in 3500 miles. But they are heavier than other tyres, double the weight of most of those above. They can also be quite tough to get on/off a rim if you do puncture, worth practicing in garage first just in case.

This is only my take on fairly limited experience but a lot of net reading


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## rh100 (16 Mar 2010)

If you're on a budget get down to LIDL's when they have stuff in - my cheapo track pump is no match for a Joe Blow or whatever - but at about £5 it was a bargain that is still in use, I don't expect it to last forever but good for the budget.

Inner tubes from Tesco have served me well at a couple of quid each, especially as spares in the panniers.

I had Panaracer tyes on my MTB - which to be fair are different beasts to the 700c tyres you are after but mine were awful for picking up punctures and it kind of put me off the brand (they were a swine to fit aswell but the cheap rims didn't help there either).

My hybrid has 700c Bontrager Select Invert on them - standard fit from new I think - have lasted really well.

Advice above about keeping the pressure up is essential.


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## jimboalee (16 Mar 2010)

What tube?

What tube for a 28 - 559 ContiUltragatorskin fitted on a rim with Schrader size orifice?


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## Debian (16 Mar 2010)

rh100 said:


> If you're on a budget get down to LIDL's when they have stuff in - my cheapo track pump is no match for a Joe Blow or whatever - but at about £5 it was a bargain that is still in use, I don't expect it to last forever but good for the budget.
> 
> Inner tubes from Tesco have served me well at a couple of quid each, especially as spares in the panniers.
> 
> Advice above about keeping the pressure up is essential.



+1 for Lidl bike gear. I have two of their track pumps, both have lasted well over a year so far (and still going strong) with no problems and at less than a fiver each... well! I keep one at work for emergencies.

Inner tubes? I have found absolutely no difference in durability whatever tubes I've used whether £3 for a pack of five from Lidl or £5 each from LBS.

+1 for tyre pressure. Keep them at near to max indicated pressure.


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## chrisb1357 (16 Mar 2010)

Cheers again for the advice. Just checked Lidil store and cycyle gear is coming back in on the 22nd round here.

Will the tyre tell me what PSI to pump upto on the tyre wall. Is it always best to pump upto nearly Max PSI even that myself is not the lightest person on earth.

Chris


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## youngoldbloke (16 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Cheers again for the advice. Just checked Lidil store and cycyle gear is coming back in on the 22nd round here.
> 
> Will the tyre tell me what PSI to pump upto on the tyre wall. Is it always best to pump upto nearly Max PSI even that myself is not the lightest person on earth.
> 
> Chris



Chris - here is an interesting paper that might answer your question:
http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf
- though the pressures seem very high to me - e.g. over 150 psi at 65kg for a 23mm tyre. After all 65kg isn't that heavy - sees to indicate that if you are much heavier you should be using wider tyres ........


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## chrisb1357 (16 Mar 2010)

I am well over that weight LOL but the bike comes with 700x35 on

Chris


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## jimboalee (16 Mar 2010)

It might be interesting to note....

A 200lb bloke with both his tyres pumped up to 100 psi would have 1 sq inch of rubber contacting the road surface for each tyre.

That's not entirely true, as the weight distribution on a bike is about 60/40 rear/front. So he should pump his rear up to 120 psi and front to 80 psi to get 1 sq inch of rubber contact under both tyres.


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## chrisb1357 (16 Mar 2010)

Well i am 238 lb just nearly 17 stone  and 6ft tall so as i say not the lightest guy on earth but been getting my weight down a bit each month for last 12 months.

I am now worried that the tyres on the new bike will not take my weight

Chris


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## Bill Gates (16 Mar 2010)

youngoldbloke said:


> Chris - here is an interesting paper that might answer your question:
> http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/images/TireDrop.pdf
> - though the pressures seem very high to me - e.g. over 150 psi at 65kg for a 23mm tyre. After all 65kg isn't that heavy - sees to indicate that if you are much heavier you should be using wider tyres ........



But it's the weight distribution per wheel. On that basis 65kgs for a rear wheel racing bike @ 60% weight distribution would mean a total weight of 108.33 kgs (nearly 17 stones).


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## MacB (16 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Well i am 238 lb just nearly 17 stone  and 6ft tall so as i say not the lightest guy on earth but been getting my weight down a bit each month for last 12 months.
> 
> I am now worried that the tyres on the new bike will not take my weight
> 
> Chris



Hah, beat you, 6'1" and was 252lbs when I started cycling, dropped to 208lbs but sadly change of work and uncontrollable attraction to the fridge saw me back to 238lbs. But moving in right direction again, now back to 231lbs, it's amazing how fast it drops if you up the mileage.

Your tyres will be fine and will cope no problem just may not have the lifespan/quality of a higher spec tyre. The M+'s are rate from 50 to 85 psi, I ran them at 55 when I started and, after about 1000 miles upped them to 80 psi and they've stayed there since, 4500 miles. I've had no punctures in them.

The idea behind high pressures is that it prevents penetrative punctures and, especially, pinch punctures. The latter being where you hit a pothole, or similar, and the tube gets pinched between tyre and rim as the tyre deforms. This didn't happen to me as an 18 stone novice riding 55 psi, in the dark, on country roads. The lower pressure was also a lot comfier as I wasn't bike fit. I tended to sit heavier in the saddle and couldn't pedal as hard/often(pedalling applies a lightening effect to your seating).

The downside to running max pressure(or some go beyond) is it makes for a harsher ride and can slow you down on rougher road surfaces. Energy is transferred into jolting around rather than where you need it. In theory the heavier you are the higher pressures you can run to get the same ride quality/benefits as a skinny guy on lower pressures. In reality the skinny guys are the worst for whacking the pressures right up. Maybe they believe that by rattling their fillings loose they're going faster

I'd say experiment by yourself, maybe start out at 65psi and vary it around to see what you like speed v comfortwise. Setting the bike up properly is vital, starting with saddle height and setback, then working forward. But you will get aches and pains to begin with, no matter what you do. Having just started upping my mileage again I'm getting a right shoulder pain I thought was behind me. This is to do with a left elbow problem and favouring the right side, but I know that when I get fit enough it vanishes.


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## chrisb1357 (16 Mar 2010)

So am i correct thinking that the tyres which are *Kenda Kwest 700x35mm*will not be able to take my weight of 17 stone

Chris


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## MacB (16 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> So am i correct thinking that the tyres which are *Kenda Kwest 700x35mm*will not be able to take my weight of 17 stone
> 
> Chris



they will take it no problem, see above


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## rh100 (16 Mar 2010)

I'm around 19.5 st at the moment - and using 700x35 tyres, don't worry about it. I assume things may wear out quicker with the weight (bearings?) but just look after the bike and it should be ok.


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## youngoldbloke (16 Mar 2010)

Bill Gates said:


> But it's the weight distribution per wheel. On that basis 65kgs for a rear wheel racing bike @ 60% weight distribution would mean a total weight of 108.33 kgs (nearly 17 stones).



Yes, you are quite right! I should have read the small print more carefully. When you include bike weight the pressures are not all that surprising.


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## Debian (16 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> So am i correct thinking that the tyres which are *Kenda Kwest 700x35mm*will not be able to take my weight of 17 stone
> 
> Chris



They will be fine, don't worry.

Pump 'em up to max pressure (this will be stamped on the tyre sidewall) for best puncture avoidance, test ride and adjust pressure until you find it comfortable. Don't go too low though.


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## chrisb1357 (25 Mar 2010)

Well all as you might have seen on another thread i had my first puncture today on the way to work which is only my 4th day on the bike LOL. So much rubish i.e stones etc on the cycyle paths along the road. Have tried to repair but i am now looking for new tyres as we was speakign about them on here.

Do people think that the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tyre - Smart Guard would be best choice for me

Also this might sound stupid but are prices for these per tyre or a pair LOL

Chris


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## potsy (25 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Well all as you might have seen on another thread i had my first puncture today on the way to work which is only my 4th day on the bike LOL. So much rubish i.e stones etc on the cycyle paths along the road. Have tried to repair but i am now looking for new tyres as we was speakign about them on here.
> 
> Do people think that the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tyre - Smart Guard would be best choice for me
> 
> ...


Great tyre chris but a bugger to fit,especially if you're learning.But once you master them you'll be able to fit anything
Prices are generally per tyre,M+ should be around £25 each.


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## chrisb1357 (26 Mar 2010)

Most places i have searched seem to have sold out of these. Can anyone advise on cheapest place to purchase them online

Chris


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## HLaB (26 Mar 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Most places i have searched seem to have sold out of these. Can anyone advise on cheapest place to purchase them online
> 
> Chris


I usually find chainreactions or probikekit cheapest, cr has better stock levels, there's also wiggle (don't pay for deliver) but its not as cheap in general. All of these offer a quick turn around, if thing are in stock I'd say on average: purchase 1 day, its processed in a day or less and its delivered the next.


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## chrisb1357 (1 Apr 2010)

I am still looking at purhchasing the Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tyre but i am a bit worried i wont be able to fit the tyre myself. on the bike at the minute i have the cheap standard tyres that come with the bike which are *Kenda Kwest 700x35mm. *Would i be best to go for the same size i have now.

Also what tubes are best to get and are the sizing the same as the tyres

Chris


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## HLaB (1 Apr 2010)

Personally I'd go a little bit narrower, it decreases rolling resistance but I doubt you'd be able to go narrower than 700x28.


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## chrisb1357 (1 Apr 2010)

Cheers for the Info

Chris


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

If i was to go a little bit narrower on the tyre is there any pro's and con;s to this

Chris


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## HLaB (2 Apr 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> If i was to go a little bit narrower on the tyre is there any pro's and con;s to this
> 
> Chris


The big pro is a narrower tyre will roll better and hence is faster/ easier but a narrower tyre may also give a slightly more harsh ride. Personally I'd opt for speed/ ease.


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## psmiffy (2 Apr 2010)

The Kenda tyre that came with my Giant were like plastercine - no puncture resistance, no grip and after pumping them up a couple of times after repairing punctures started to deform - binned after not that many miles


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

Hi,

I agrree with u on that about the giant tyres. had a flat on the 3rd day which by chance i repaired myself for first time and its lasted the last week.

Just still making my mind up on which tyre to go for. Just how hard are these puncture resistant tyres to get on and off the wheel

Chris


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

Do a pick a new tube for the bike to match tyre size or wheel size

Chris


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## HLaB (2 Apr 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Do a pick a new tube for the bike to match tyre size or wheel size
> 
> Chris


Your tyre should say some like 700x35 or 700x28, etc you'll be wanting a tube which is of that diameter (700) and has a width range that that fall into (i.e for 28 a 25-32 wine tube), say a 700x23-32. Your Lbs will sort you out.


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

Well i have decided to purchase a good track pump ready for the tyres as i only have a hand pump at the minute.

For the time being until i have saved up for the new tyres i am going to buy some new tubes incase i get anymore punctures and wanted to know what to get for my current tyres which are 700x35mm

Are these ok to get for the Giant CSR4 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCHWALBE-Two-...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item3efdac7ed2


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## HLaB (2 Apr 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Well i have decided to purchase a good track pump ready for the tyres as i only have a hand pump at the minute.
> 
> For the time being until i have saved up for the new tyres i am going to buy some new tubes incase i get anymore punctures and wanted to know what to get for my current tyres which are 700x35mm
> 
> Are these ok to get for the Giant CSR4 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SCHWALBE-Two-...sure_cycling_bikeparts_SR?hash=item3efdac7ed2


Yip, theyll be fine 700mm diameter and they range between 28 and 45mm wide and you need 35 :-)


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

Cheers,

what does the C stand for on that listing do you know. I thought it was Temp LOLOL. Just shows i know nothing


Chris


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## HLaB (2 Apr 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> Cheers,
> 
> what does the C stand for on that listing do you know. I thought it was Temp LOLOL
> 
> Chris


sheldon explains more, I'll try and find the link but IIRC its the true internal wheel diameter, 622mm


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## HLaB (2 Apr 2010)

Here's the link


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## potsy (2 Apr 2010)

HLaB said:


> Yip, theyll be fine 700mm diameter and they range between 28 and 45mm wide and you need 35 :-)


But they are presta valves,is this what you have now? You could get some from your lbs for a similar price if you discount the postage and you'll be sure they're the right ones.


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

At the min the ones that came with the bike have a long valve which i have to unscrew something on them to pump up.

Chris


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## HLaB (2 Apr 2010)

chrisb1357 said:


> At the min the ones that came with the bike have a long valve which i have to unscrew something on them to pump up.
> 
> Chris


They are presta as are most if not all road bikes.


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## chrisb1357 (2 Apr 2010)

Just ordered 2 x Kenda 700 X 35 HYBRID BICYCLE INNER TUBES PRESTA VALVE which i found cheap to use as a backup incase of punctures. Will do me for now i think. they say they are good for tyres *700 x 35 ,**700 x 37, **700 x 38, **700 x 40*

Chris


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## chrisb1357 (3 Apr 2010)

Now also ordered 2 x 700x35 Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres which i think will be ok on the wheels i have and the tubes i have ordered.

Now the main question what is the trick to getting these tyres on LOL

Chris


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## chrisb1357 (7 Apr 2010)

Hi all,

Still running on my factory tyres that came with my bike as the new ones have not turned up yet I have just got a new track pump and wanted to know is it best to pump upto max PSI which on the tyre wall states 80psi max on front and back or is it best to use a little less than that.

The back has my repair tube on still and is at 70psi at the min and the front also at 70psi

Chris


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## potsy (7 Apr 2010)

I go with max on the back and just a little less on the front.


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## chrisb1357 (7 Apr 2010)

So can leave front at 70 PSI and 80 PSI which is max on the back. Will it be ok even that i have repaird the tube on the back as i have not took derlivery of the new tyres and tube yet.

When i took the bike for a little run tonight at 70psi the ride felt completley diffrenet to before i used a track pump. Problem is i seen felt the bumps in the rood LOL

Chris


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## potsy (7 Apr 2010)

If the repairs held this long then it will be fine,yes you will feel the bumps more time for some padded shorts
Wait til you upgrade to a road bike with 115psi in the tyres,then you'll know about it


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## chrisb1357 (7 Apr 2010)

LOL i need a good seat now LOL them bumps hurt

Chris


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## Stevejo (22 Apr 2010)

Deffinately Marathon+. They are not perfect, but what is. Punctured my back M+ twice last week, first was a piece of broken plastic pipe, same colour as pavement and sharp as a razor. It sliced right throuth the tyre and tube. Two days later, square nail, point sharp as a dart, went through tyre, both sides of tube and was embedded in rim. No glass has got through as of yet.


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