# A day on the Shiminami Kaido



## Rasmus (9 Jun 2016)

I recently spent 9 days on holiday travelling around Japan (by train). I have visited several times, but there continues to be a amazing amount of interesting new cities and regions to explore. A previous visit had taken me to the island of Miyajima, from where I got a mountaintop view of the Inland Sea between Honshu and Shikoku. It was instantly clear that this is an area I needed to explore further.

So, for this visit, I discovered the Shimanami Kaido. A series of bridges island hopping across the sea, with bike lanes and signposted cycle routes. Perfect!

I stayed at a hotel on the waterfront in Onomichi city. An interesting location in itself - an old warehouse converted into a hotel, restaurant, cafe, shop, and a Giant cycle shop. Very cyclist friendly with cycle racks in the lobby (the name "Hotel Cycle" was a clue...)

I rented a bike from the official bike hire scheme next door. Incredible value at only 1000 Yen (~7£) for a day. Limited selection of bikes, though, and you have to show up early to get the "good ones". Proper road bikes were available at the Giant store, but I was happy enough with a cross-style flatbarred bike for a slow-ish day pootle.

The ride starts with a 5 minute ferry ride, as the first bridge is a ways south of town and not bike lane equipped.






Onomichi strait.





On the boat. My cheap rental feeling inadequate in the company...

A tourist brochire claims this is the shortest ferry trip in the world. I reckon the Colintraive-Rhubodach ferry just about beats it. Anyway, I soon arrived on the island of Mukoijima. The first few miles were in some built up dockyards area, but the traffic soon died down to fairly quiet levels. Anyway the locals were clearly used to driving around cyclists, and I had no unpleasant interactions. Soon the first bridge came into view. This one had a bike lane deck underneath the car deck.





Innoshima bridge

Arriving on Innoshima I diverted off course to the "flower road", climbing a steep hill to an observation platform. Needed to walk the last bit to the top - good thing I wasn't on cleats. Nice panoramic view from the top.









The view from Shiratakiyama.

This area is full of active industrial ports, so lots of dockyards and cranes around. 
Descending back down I soon arrived at the next bridge, taking me to Ikuchima





This island has one of the larger settlements in the area which served as a nice spot to stop for refreshments. It of course also includes several temples and shrines. I had a look around the biggest ones. Not ancient like the popular tourist spots, but still some impressive architecture. And bike parking right in front!









Kousan-ji temple


Onwards then to bridge number three, crossing to Oumishima. I should remark on the excellent infrastructure. Approches to all bridges were on dedicated bike lanes, laid out on gentle gradients, manageable for all cyclists






Tatara bridge

Continues....


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## Rasmus (9 Jun 2016)

Arriving i noticed signs for the "cyclists sanctuary", which turned out to be a large restauranty type thing. Good place to stop for a drink and ice cream. Also a monument created in cooperation with a cycle route in Taiwan. Maybe a place to go in the future...





Cyclist's sanctuary

Short ride along the costs, and a change of bridge design - this crossing being too short to warrant a suspension or cable stayed bridge.




Oumishima bridge.

Arriving on Hakata Island there was still two more bridges to go before reaching Shikoku. But this was as far as I would go - I had to make it back by the end of the day. Couldn't resist the existense of another park and climb to an observation platform, though. You don't really get any "remoteness" in Japan - certainly not along the Honshu coast, but this felt pretty close, climbing up the back road in a very empty park, and no one else in the small shrine and park at the top. Another excellent view was found.








Hirakiyama park.

My final destination was the Funaori Seto - "shipbreakers strait". A narrow section of waterway with very rapid currents. A boat was coming through - it made it safely!





Funaori Seto.

It was then time to turn back, crossing the same four bridges again. I was slightly short on time, so couldn't continue stopping all the time for photos. Varied the route somewhat taking an alternate route on one island past some lovely looking citrus and orange orchards. Evenutally arrived back at the ferry to take me across to Onomichi again.





Return ferry.

After showering I rewarded myself with a very pleasant Sashimi dinner





Route is on strava here: https://www.strava.com/activities/599648763

For me, this was without a doubt one of the best days on the bike you could ever hope to have. For anyone who happens to find themselves in Nippon, this offers a great opportunity to escape the crowds and experience more "real" smaller-town japanese culture. No need to worry about navigation. The whole route is covered by a blue line painted on the road, and there's plenty of maps posted at important junctions. Having said that, any visit to japan is enhanced by taking the time to learn the basics of the language, especially when venturing off course and exploring.


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## Rooster1 (9 Jun 2016)

I wanno go!


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## clid61 (11 Jun 2016)

Ditto that looks fabulous ! Great write up and great pics , thanks .


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## Hill Wimp (11 Jun 2016)

That sounds superb @Rasmus. Thanks for sharing.


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Jun 2016)

Great report and lovely pictures, thanks for sharing!
I don't fancy that dinner though, seems a bit lacking in carbs


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## Rasmus (12 Jun 2016)

Rooster1 said:


> I wanno go!


If you are fortunate enough to have the means (Japan is not as expensive as you might think, but it is not exactly cheap), I absolutely recommend it as a holiday destination. Exotic, yet accessible, safe, and thoroughly pleasant people.



Pat "5mph" said:


> Great report and lovely pictures, thanks for sharing!
> I don't fancy that dinner though, seems a bit lacking in carbs


I didn't show you the sides. Miso soup and a big bowl of rice


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