# £400 hardtail - recommendations?



## Percy (4 Sep 2011)

Sorry, another 'which bike' post, but... well, I'm going to do it anyway.

Interested to hear if anyone's seen any good end of season bargins for a hardtail around the £400 mark - or any recommendations generally. 

Any thoughts on the price bracket too? Would I be better off going up to £500, for example, if there's a bit of a jump in spec/quality?

I don't particularly want the lightest/highest spec (obviously, otherwise I'd be spending a lot more!), just something for some fun on trails/hills, as an alternative to my usual road riding.

Cheers.


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## Angelfishsolo (5 Sep 2011)

If you can raise your budget to £500 you can get this. It is a hell of a lot of bike for the money!


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## cjb (5 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> Sorry, another 'which bike' post, but... well, I'm going to do it anyway.
> 
> Interested to hear if anyone's seen any good end of season bargins for a hardtail around the £400 mark - or any recommendations generally.
> 
> ...


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## cjb (5 Sep 2011)

At that sort of price I would advise secondhand. If you check all the For Sale sites or even ebay there is always someone who's bought a bike, ridden maybe 50 miles on it, and decided it wasn't suitable (for whatever reason). Buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea IMHO.


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## Angelfishsolo (5 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> At that sort of price I would advise secondhand. If you check all the For Sale sites or even ebay there is always someone who's bought a bike, ridden maybe 50 miles on it, and decided it wasn't suitable (for whatever reason). Buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea IMHO.



Take a look at the specs of the two bikes suggested and rethink your statement.


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## mcshroom (5 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> Take a look at the specs of the two bikes suggested and rethink your statement.



AFS, if everyone had the same opinion then forums would be pretty pointless.

I agree that the Rockrider looks good


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## Percy (5 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea IMHO.



Does seem a rather rash statement - are you seriously suggesting that something like this (as a quickly-found example):

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/gt-avalanche-30-disc-hydro-2011/#more

or this:

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/giant-revel-0-2011/#more

or the (very good) example Angelfishsolo gave are best not - or even dangerous if - ridden 'off road'? What are you saying might happen if they were? 

I take the point of second hand though and it is something I am considering. I know my way around road/touring bikes very well but not so much suspension foks/disc brakes. I think they're a little bit of a gamble from ebay etc. too as, by their nature, tend to be ridden a bit rougher and the components take a bit more of a battering - I am looking though.

I'm not looking for a project (I've just completed one of those) and nor am I looking for the best in its class ready for top-level downhill racing. I just want a reasonble hardtail for some off-road fun.


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## cjb (6 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> Does seem a rather rash statement - are you seriously suggesting that something like this (as a quickly-found example):
> 
> http://www.wiggle.co...ydro-2011/#more
> 
> ...



A friend of mine goes through cheap off-road bikes with some frequency - it's a durability issue, not one of safety.

My secondhand reference was to purchasing a nearly new bike that someone, for whatever reason, was anxious to sell after only nominal mileage.


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## Angelfishsolo (6 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> A friend of mine goes through cheap off-road bikes with some frequency - it's a durability issue, not one of safety.
> 
> My secondhand reference was to purchasing a nearly new bike that someone, for whatever reason, was anxious to sell after only nominal mileage.



Could you possibly give us the make and models of those bikes please?


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## cjb (6 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> Could you possibly give us the make and models of those bikes please?




He's had bottom of the range Ridgebacks and GTs (can't give you the model) so far, and we're talking about the off-road riding in all weathers and terrains here.


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## Angelfishsolo (6 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> He's had bottom of the range Ridgebacks and GTs (can't give you the model) so far, and we're talking about the off-road riding in all weathers and terrains here.



OK thanks. Neither of the bikes listed are close to BotR however. The Decathlon bike would be good value at double the price in my eyes if it were not for the weight of the machine.


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## Percy (6 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> He's had bottom of the range Ridgebacks and GTs (can't give you the model) so far, and we're talking about the off-road riding in all weathers and terrains here.



It's interesting to hear. What problems is he having? By that I mean, what is it on the bikes that's failing? Wheels? Drivetrain? Specific components? Frames?!

If it's serious enough that he is having to replace whole bikes each time I'd be interested to know at what level and frequency he rides. I mean, if he's out four times a week on tough trails/downhill, a £400 GT/Giant probably isn't the best bike for him, but it'd be useful to note for comparison purposes.


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## cjb (6 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> It's interesting to hear. What problems is he having? By that I mean, what is it on the bikes that's failing? Wheels? Drivetrain? Specific components? Frames?!
> 
> If it's serious enough that he is having to replace whole bikes each time I'd be interested to know at what level and frequency he rides. I mean, if he's out four times a week on tough trails/downhill, a £400 GT/Giant probably isn't the best bike for him, but it'd be useful to note for comparison purposes.



My friend has no understanding of mechanical things (he's an accountant, if that excuses him!!). He grinds his gears, puts his bike away unwashed, uses a bike shop for all his servicing, and eventually they tell him that the bike is not worth repairing. I think that if you are doing serious off-road, as opposed to riding the local canal towpath, you should buy the best MTB you can afford (and look after it).


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## Percy (6 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> He grinds his gears, puts his bike away unwashed, uses a bike shop for all his servicing, and eventually they tell him that the bike is not worth repairing.



If you had told me that in the first place, we need never have had this conversation. In fact, you've just countered your own original statement of "buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea IMHO" by explaining that it's not the bikes that are the problem, rather the way your friend treats them. 

As it is, we're back to the beginning. Anyone got any recommendations for £400-ish hardtails?


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## Angelfishsolo (6 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> My friend has no understanding of mechanical things (he's an accountant, if that excuses him!!). He grinds his gears, puts his bike away unwashed, uses a bike shop for all his servicing, and eventually they tell him that the bike is not worth repairing. I think that if you are doing serious off-road, as opposed to riding the local canal towpath, you should buy the best MTB you can afford (and look after it).



Then by the sound of it your friend would trash a £3000 bike just as easily!!!


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## Angelfishsolo (6 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> If you had told me that in the first place, we need never have had this conversation. In fact, you've just countered your own original statement of "buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea IMHO" by explaining that it's not the bikes that are the problem, rather the way your friend treats them.
> 
> As it is, we're back to the beginning. Anyone got any recommendations for £400-ish hardtails?



[url="http://www.bikester.co.uk/bicycle/mountain-bike/hardtail-up-to-500/233944.html?_cid=1_3_2_2097_2098_2365_233944_&c=18#hardtail-up-to-500-hardtail-up-to-500-analog-black-n-white"]This one[/url]


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## Percy (6 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> This one



Nice - thanks AFS. Seems your original Decathlon recommendation is going to be hard to beat on spec.


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## Angelfishsolo (6 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> Nice - thanks AFS. Seems your original Decathlon recommendation is going to be hard to beat on spec.



Sadly it also seems it is no longer on offer


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## Zoiders (6 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> A friend of mine goes through cheap off-road bikes with some frequency - it's a durability issue, not one of safety.
> 
> My secondhand reference was to purchasing a nearly new bike that someone, for whatever reason, was anxious to sell after only nominal mileage.


 Durability affects all price points, more money just tends to get you less weight, if you are heavy on the bikes or not the defest of riders then it becomes a very pricey hobby.

Entry level stuff like the £400 rockrider is fine for trail use and will last as well as more pricey options with exception of maybe the forks.


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## Percy (6 Sep 2011)

Zoiders said:


> Durability affects all price points, more money just tends to get you less weight, if you are heavy on the bikes or not the defest of riders then it becomes a very pricey hobby.



Wise words - I'm glad a modicum of sense is returning to the thread.

Interesting point on the forks, Zoiders. It's one of the few bits of bike I'm not familiar with (see also disc brakes). Anything I should/shouldn't be looking out for when reviewing specs?


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## Zoiders (6 Sep 2011)

The fork on the decathlon is in fact not half bad for the money.

Above that point just stick to the like of Rockshox Marzochi and Manitou - previously I would have avoided Manitou as they were good but fiddly to fix and maintain but they have come on in leaps and bounds and now seem to rule the lightweight race niche.

Fox offer brilliant kit but it's pricey.
.
Anything with just springs in it - avoid like the plague as you would be better off rigid.

There is a very lengthy list of features on properly sprung and damped forks with reams and reams of different settings to adjust ride height and feel.

Keep it simple, 100-125mm travel with limited adjustments to the spring rates and damping and a lockout if possible.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

Zoiders said:


> Durability affects all price points, more money just tends to get you less weight, if you are heavy on the bikes or not the defest of riders then it becomes a very pricey hobby.
> 
> Entry level stuff like the £400 rockrider is fine for trail use and will last as well as more pricey options with exception of maybe the forks.



Once again we agree


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Sorry, guys, but I still think £400 is too little to spend for serious off-road use. That's the sort of money I would expect to have to spend on my forks alone.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Sorry, guys, but I still think £400 is too little to spend for serious off-road use. That's the sort of money I would expect to have to spend on forks on my forks alone.



We understand your point of view. That said for trail riding a £400 bike will be just fine.


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> We understand your point of view. That said for trail riding a £400 bike will be just fine.




Agreed, for trail riding, absolutely fine.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Agreed, for trail riding, absolutely fine.



And what does the OP wan the bike for?

@Percy - I am assuming here that you are not talking about serious Down Hilling as as this [media]
]View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUdu0wQtpF8&feature=related[/media]


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## Percy (7 Sep 2011)

Some of that looks pretty tame to me actually and I'd be happy to handle it on a hardtail - £400 or £3000. But no, in general, not that sort of level of stuff. I'd look at full-sus if I was going that way, probably.

cjb - you are perfectly entitled to your opinion, of course, but you do seem to be blinded by the pound-sign-trick that eminates not just through cycling but most hobbies that require specific equipment. As Zoiders said, specifically with bikes, more money generally gets you lighter stuff, not necessarily stronger. Sure, a £3500 bike, kitted with £400 forks, will handle better, be lighter and probably last longer than one half the price - or a quarter of the price - but to imply, as you are, that you need to spend that money (OK, maybe not £3500, but certainly more than £400) just to even get off a road is somewhat ridiculous.

It's like saying that, to cycle up the classic mountain passes in the Alps and Pyrenees, you need a full carbon bike that cost at least £1500. Anything under that simply won't get you up them. Which is rubbish - you could cycle up those passes on a steel touring bike loaded with panniers - it won't be as easy or perhaps as comfortable, but it's still possible. Just because manufacturers make these high-end products and components doesn't mean they're essential for the job - nice to have, sure, if you want to pay for them (and I do on occasion), but certainly not essential. 

Off-road is different, of course, but to suggest a £400 machine is unsuitable simply because of its cost (you haven't actually said yet what it is about the cheaper bikes you're so concerned about - do you think a <£400 suspension fork is going to collapse if it hits a tree root?) if quite frankly naive.


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> Some of that looks pretty tame to me actually and I'd be happy to handle it on a hardtail - £400 or £3000. But no, in general, not that sort of level of stuff. I'd look at full-sus if I was going that way, probably.
> 
> cjb - you are perfectly entitled to your opinion, of course, but you do seem to be blinded by the pound-sign-trick that eminates not just through cycling but most hobbies that require specific equipment. As Zoiders said, specifically with bikes, more money generally gets you lighter stuff, not necessarily stronger. Sure, a £3500 bike, kitted with £400 forks, will handle better, be lighter and probably last longer than one half the price - or a quarter of the price - but to imply, as you are, that you need to spend that money (OK, maybe not £3500, but certainly more than £400) just to even get off a road is somewhat ridiculous.
> 
> ...



Yes, that is my opinion and I always buy the best I can afford whether it be a bike or whatever. Experience has taught me that it is usually the cheapest option in the long run.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Yes, that is my opinion and I always buy the best I can afford whether it be a bike or whatever. Experience has taught me that it is usually the cheapest option in the long run.



May I ask what experience? Earlier you gave mention to a friend who trashed cheap bikes by not looking after them.

Also given the choice for an everyday Trail bike would you buy Shimano XTR or SLX componantary?


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> May I ask what experience? Earlier you gave mention to a friend who trashed cheap bikes by not looking after them.
> 
> Also given the choice for an everyday Trail bike would you buy Shimano XTR or SLX componantary?






I have used Shimano XT for 15 years and it has served me very well.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> I have used Shimano XT for 15 years and it has served me very well.



Yes but I asked about XTR v SLX


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## Percy (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Yes, that is my opinion and I always buy the best I can afford whether it be a bike or whatever. Experience has taught me that it is usually the cheapest option in the long run.



You're confusing your two stances. On the one hand you're saying you like expensive equipment, you won't settle for anything less. Fine - me too, on occasions.

On the other, you're saying "I still think £400 is too little to spend for serious off-road use," without backing it up. If it's the case that you personally wouldn't spend £400, because you like expensive equipment, that's something different to saying, unequivocally, that a £400 hardtail is "unsuitable for serious off-road use."

Being as I originally asked for opinions and advice on £400 hardtails, if you have serious concerns about the quality of the components/manufacture on bikes in that price range, I'd be interested to hear, specifically, what they are.

If you're simply saying "don't buy a £400 bike because a £2000 one would be better"... well, I could have quite happily done without that, to be honest.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> You're confusing your two stances. On the one hand you're saying you like expensive equipment, you won't settle for anything less. Fine - me too, on occasions.
> 
> On the other, you're saying "I still think £400 is too little to spend for serious off-road use," without backing it up. If it's the case that you personally wouldn't spend £400, because you like expensive equipment, that's something different to saying, unequivocally, that a £400 hardtail is "unsuitable for serious off-road use."
> 
> ...



Percy - seriously you will have no issues with a £400 bike on trails I assure you. You might get slicker gear changes and slightly better brakes on a more expensive machine and yes the forks will not be as good as say a £1000 fox fork but they will do the job you require from them. CJB seems to be a expensive is best person and if he can afford it so be it.


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> Yes but I asked about XTR v SLX




You also asked about my experience. 

Regarding XTR v SLX, I would say that the current generation of SLX is excellent and probably equivalent in build quality to XT, say, 5/6 years ago. XTR is primarily intended as a race groupset, I believe, which I think rules it out of this discussion.


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## potsy (7 Sep 2011)

Have noticed Spesh Hardrock's going for £350ish on a few sites, don't know a lot about MTB's but for a budget bike it seems OK to me.
Got me wondering now whether to keep to the plan of a CX or switch to a HT MTB


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## Percy (7 Sep 2011)

I know - thanks AFS. To be honest, I never really had any query over the reliability/suitability of such a machine. I seem to have just been carried along with the confusing nature of this thread...

I think I'll probably just head to the internet bike shops and a few locally and see what's going in the end of season sales.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> You also asked about my experience.
> 
> Regarding XTR v SLX, I would say that the current generation of SLX is excellent and probably equivalent in build quality to XT, say, 5/6 years ago. XTR is primarily intended as a race groupset, I believe, which I think rules it out of this discussion.



It is indeed. Thus suggesting that someone spends as much as possible would lead someone to buy a bike with and XTR group-set would it not?


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> Percy - seriously you will have no issues with a £400 bike on trails I assure you. You might get slicker gear changes and slightly better brakes on a more expensive machine and yes the forks will not be as good as say a £1000 fox fork but they will do the job you require from them. CJB seems to be a expensive is best person and if he can afford it so be it.




Percy, I agree entirely with Angelfishsolo here. Buy your bike, ride the trails and, above all, enjoy yourself.


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> It is indeed. Thus suggesting that someone spends as much as possible would lead someone to buy a bike with and XTR group-set would it not?




I don't think I have said, in any of my posts, that one should spend as much as possible. But if I was racing, yes, I would buy XTR.


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> I don't think I have said, in any of my posts, that one should spend as much as possible.



So what does


> Yes, that is my opinion and I always _*buy the best I can afford*_ whether it be a bike or whatever. Experience has taught me that it is usually the cheapest option in the long run.


mean?



Also the Decathlon website has been moved so that amazing £500 bike is still available here


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> So what does
> mean?
> 
> 
> ...



It says *best,* not the *most expensive*


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## Angelfishsolo (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> It says *best,* not the *most expensive*


_*
But XTR is the best that Shimano make!*_


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> _*
> But XTR is the best that Shimano make!*_



What point are you trying to make?

I am talking about best for intended purpose here, which in this case is recreational mountain biking. As I previously stated, I would certainly buy XTR if I raced regularly.


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## twobiker (7 Sep 2011)

potsy said:


> Have noticed Spesh Hardrock's going for £350ish on a few sites, don't know a lot about MTB's but for a budget bike it seems OK to me.
> Got me wondering now whether to keep to the plan of a CX or switch to a HT MTB


I have one of those cost £359 and has been completely reliable.


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## Zoiders (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> What point are you trying to make?
> 
> I am talking about best for intended purpose here, which in this case is recreational mountain biking. As I previously stated, I would certainly buy XTR if I raced regularly.


You are just willy waving about how much money you claim to spend spend to get "the best" when you probably can't even ride at a level to even need most of the features offered, it's just an expensive security blanket.

$400 on a fork?

Sure you can spend that much but it's not going to be any more servicable in the long run - in fact the more pricey designs tend to have even shorter service intervals than low to mid range forks, if you think it's all about team replica bikes then think on as a big price ticket means a big bill for maintaining the bike.

Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.


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## cjb (7 Sep 2011)

```
Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.
```

As I have said previously, I entirely agree.

I actually joined this forum because I'm also getting into cycling on the road. My concept of what constitutes a good mountain bike spec would be regarded as quite mundane on most other specialist mountain bike forums. On reflection, I guess I should not have posted on this thread !!!


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## Zoiders (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> ```
> Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.
> ```
> 
> ...









Willy waving again.


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## Percy (7 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> ```
> Plenty of £400 bikes are fit for purpose.
> ```
> 
> As I have said previously, I entirely agree.



Well, no, you didn't actually, which is what got us in this mess in the first place. What you said was:

"Buying a £400 bike for off-road use is not a good idea."

That's a direct quote. You seem to have confused the intention of this thread - it was meant to be a 'let's talk a bit about £400 mtbs and what's out there for the money' thread, not a 'tell us all how much you like to spend on your bikes' thread. 

I'm sure we could all wax lyrical about components and bikes we've bought previously - I've just finished building my own road bike, with a brand new SRAM groupset, but you don't hear me going on about it, do you? No, you don't. Stop confusing things. Edit: And willy waving.


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## mcshroom (7 Sep 2011)

Percy said:


> I've just finished building my own road bike, with a brand new SRAM groupset, but you don't hear me going on about it, do you?



You just have, haven't you?


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## mcshroom (7 Sep 2011)

To be fair it does rather depend on what you are wanting to do with your bike. For the amount of off-roading I do, my £130 Rockrider 5.1 survives well enough, but it would be heavy, slow and pretty crap for someone who did a decent amount of off-roading.

On the other hand the tourer I have suits a majority of my riding fine, so for me was worth spending a bit more on.


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## WychwoodTrev (7 Sep 2011)

This is what I have http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-giant-yukon-08-28703/

Had it 3 yrs done a lot of work this year with me and my stepson done some decent trails and woodland rides not even had to adjust the gears/cables I just clean and lube only had one puncture too  

Fantastc=ic bike this is now my winter hack and fun bike


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## Percy (7 Sep 2011)

mcshroom said:


> You just have, haven't you?


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## Cubist (8 Sep 2011)

Percy

Answer us this question, and perhaps we can move away from all the carping and get to the point of the thread. 
Do you intend to ride more than just towpaths and gentle bridleways, or trail centre green and blue routes? Do you want to take part in MTB challenges/distance events/races, or do you want to bimble for leisure rides round the local sustrans routes? 


Despite the ill-feeling, everybody posting so far is right, but are arguing from different perspectives. I agree with Zoiders up to a point, but I also agree with cjb. The willy-waving etc is a natural part of what we do as a hobby.... we love kit. 

If you are only going to be doing towpaths and gentle bridleways, you don't need to spend the earth. You'll find loads of bikes at that price point, but as Zoiders says, forks at that price will be coils. If you do want to spec one, forget the groupsets (they'll all be functional but basic) and brakes will vary between mechanical discs and some rare hydraulics.

Most of the frames will be solid and functional, if not a little heavy compared with a £600 plus bike. Specialized win the frame race this far down the spec, together with the Cube analog (but that is just my opinion) 

So, the fork question. Many cheap forks are undamped coils. These take some of the sting out of the bumps, but don't offer as much control as one that is well made and well damped. If you are only riding bridleways at leisurely pace, then it doesn't really matter.

If, like cjb, you want to ride faster over more technical stuff, a better fork with air spring and damping is the way to go.

Some will jump in here and say "are you telling me that you can't take a £400 Speshagiant Analock on red routes just because it's got an 80mm undamped coil fork on it?" and my answer would be, of course you can,but you will be limited in terms of speed and stopping power, and the componentry may well wear out very quickly. (possibly even as fast as XTR Angel!) What I'm trying, perhaps a bit clumsily to say here, is that I wouldn't, because I know I'd have to take it easy and would be afraid the fork would ping me off into the weeds

If you want to ride tech stuff look a bit further up the price brackets for stuff like the Carrera AM Fury. £550 will get you one of the sweetest Trail hardtails around (but you'll have to fit a 20" and be quick, there aren't many left!

If, like cjb, me and many others, you want to ride tech trails fast, and put the bike through its paces at the weekend, with a few long-distance rides thrown in, then I'm afraid you will need to spend more in order to make the experience worthwhile or enjoyable. Better brakes, lighter frames, lighter wheels, better rolling tyres, and, I'm sorry to say, better, more expensive forks. That Carrera above will do all of that for the money. 

Hope this helps, but there are so many bikes out there at £400 that the choice is bewildering. Start with the fork, and look for anything with Suntour Epicon, Rockshox Dart, Manitou,. Avoid unbranded forks, and steer clear of RST. Snntour XCT or XCM are Ok, but look for ones with damping control (lockout is good, but not all that important, you don't get much pedal bob at that price point!) 

If you want to do some serious stuff, spend your £400 n a secondhand bike. Ebay is littered with unused Carreras bought on a whim. You may even find a top brand bike for littlel money, but you'll have to have reserve funds to replace worn out bits on it when it arrives.


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## cjb (8 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Agreed, for trail riding, absolutely fine.




Percy, I also said this, when the type of riding you intended to do was made clear.


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## cjb (8 Sep 2011)

```
Despite the ill-feeling, everybody posting so far is right, but are arguing from different perspectives. I agree with Zoiders up to a point, but I also agree with cjb. The willy-waving etc is a natural part of what we do as a hobby.... we love kit.
```

Cubist, thanks for your support - I was feeling a bit lonely here and was thinking I was in the wrong place.

Your post was excellent and highlighted the healthy diversity in our sport. Like many riders, I build up my own bikes and get tremendous pleasure from this aspect. I'm sure, like me, you've met up with groups of other riders out on the hills and spent a happy 10 minutes comparing bikes and discussing components - all part of the fun IMHO.


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## Angelfishsolo (8 Sep 2011)

If you look at the decathlon bike I have recommended you will see it has hydraulic forks Rockshox recon and SRAM X7 contemporary. It is a little heavy but one hell of a bike and certainly upto red routes IMHO.

Here is the spec.

*Weight : *12,85 Kg in Size S

*Frame : *double thickness 6061 T6 aluminium; racing frame geometry; 1.9kg in size L. Hardwearing and lightweight. Its frame geometry provides the best compromise for climbing and downhill riding.

*Suspension/Shock absorbers : *New Rock Shox RECON Silver TK 100mm fork. Remote Lock out at the handlebar. Effective rebound adjustment and lockout with a half turn of the lever.

*Drivetrain : *Shimano Deore M590 22x32x44 crankset; SRAM X - 7 front derailleur; SRAM X - 7 rear derailleur; SRAM PG950 11x32 9-speed cassette.

*Braking : *Avid ELIXIR 3 hydraulic disc brakes, 160 mm rotors. Powerful and progressive whatever the conditions

*Handlebar/stem/saddle : *Rockrider Comp 600/400mm raised handlebar; Rockrider Comp stem; b'Twin MTB comp saddle. Oversize handlebar and stem, more durable and lighter. A raised riding position for added control and comfort without compromising on performance.

*Wheels : *Rockrider Comp 32 hole rims by Rigida JT D041/D142 hubs, 2mm stainless steel spokes Watertight bearings.

*Tyres : *New Rockrider Sport.

*Pedals : *Wellgo 823 WPD clipless pedals. Safer and more effecient.

*Size : *S, M, L and XL.

*Weight : *12,85 Kg in Size S

*Frame : *double thickness 6061 T6 aluminium; racing frame geometry; 1.9kg in size L. Hardwearing and lightweight. Its frame geometry provides the best compromise for climbing and downhill riding.

*Suspension/Shock absorbers : *New Rock Shox RECON Silver TK 100mm fork. Remote Lock out at the handlebar. Effective rebound adjustment and lockout with a half turn of the lever.

*Drivetrain : *Shimano Deore M590 22x32x44 crankset; SRAM X - 7 front derailleur; SRAM X - 7 rear derailleur; SRAM PG950 11x32 9-speed cassette.

*Braking : *Avid ELIXIR 3 hydraulic disc brakes, 160 mm rotors. Powerful and progressive whatever the conditions

*Handlebar/stem/saddle : *Rockrider Comp 600/400mm raised handlebar; Rockrider Comp stem; b'Twin MTB comp saddle. Oversize handlebar and stem, more durable and lighter. A raised riding position for added control and comfort without compromising on performance.

*Wheels : *Rockrider Comp 32 hole rims by Rigida JT D041/D142 hubs, 2mm stainless steel spokes Watertight bearings.

*Tyres : *New Rockrider Sport.

*Pedals : *Wellgo 823 WPD clipless pedals. Safer and more effecient.

*Size : *S, M, L and XL.


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## Percy (8 Sep 2011)

Cubist said:


> Percy
> 
> Answer us this question, and perhaps we can move away from all the carping and get to the point of the thread.
> Do you intend to ride more than just towpaths and gentle bridleways, or trail centre green and blue routes? Do you want to take part in MTB challenges/distance events/races, or do you want to bimble for leisure rides round the local sustrans routes?
> ...



Thank you Cubist for such a reasoned and thorough response - it's just what I was looking for.

I plan to be doing something in between, I guess. Not just towpaths and bridleways - I'd like to get on some tougher stuff and fast trails, but I'm not interested in racing/challenges/distance events.

I'll look through your suggestions - perhaps pushing the budget up a little is the answer, or getting on ebay, as you say.


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## cjb (8 Sep 2011)

Good research, Angelfishsolo, that's a hell of a lot of bike for the money!


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## Angelfishsolo (8 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> Good research, Angelfishsolo, that's a hell of a lot of bike for the money!



Isn't it just!


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## Kestevan (8 Sep 2011)

The Rockrider is a cracking bike. But the tyres that come with Decathlon MTB's are shocking. 

They are plasticy and hard, have little grip in any conditions and the smallest puncture can quickly lead to a split tyre and a long walk home......


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## Angelfishsolo (8 Sep 2011)

Kestevan said:


> The Rockrider is a cracking bike. But the tyres that come with Decathlon MTB's are shocking.
> 
> They are plasticy and hard, have little grip in any conditions and the smallest puncture can quickly lead to a split tyre and a long walk home......



For the spec of the rest of the bike I think buying a better set of tyres is not a bad deal


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## Cubist (8 Sep 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> <BR>If you look at the decathlon bike I have recommended you will see it has hydraulic forks Rockshox recon and SRAM X7 contemporary. It is a little heavy but one hell of a bike and certainly upto red routes IMHO.<BR><BR>Here is the spec.<BR><BR><B>Weight : </B>12,85 Kg in Size S<BR><BR><B>Frame : </B>double thickness 6061 T6 aluminium; racing frame geometry; 1.9kg in size L. Hardwearing and lightweight. Its frame geometry provides the best compromise for climbing and downhill riding.<BR><BR><B>Suspension/Shock absorbers : </B>New Rock Shox RECON Silver TK 100mm fork. Remote Lock out at the handlebar. Effective rebound adjustment and lockout with a half turn of the lever.<BR><BR><B>Drivetrain : </B>Shimano Deore M590 22x32x44 crankset; SRAM X - 7 front derailleur; SRAM X - 7 rear derailleur; SRAM PG950 11x32 9-speed cassette.<BR><BR><B>Braking : </B>Avid ELIXIR 3 hydraulic disc brakes, 160 mm rotors. Powerful and progressive whatever the conditions<BR><BR><B>Handlebar/stem/saddle : </B>Rockrider Comp 600/400mm raised handlebar; Rockrider Comp stem; b'Twin MTB comp saddle. Oversize handlebar and stem, more durable and lighter. A raised riding position for added control and comfort without compromising on performance.<BR><BR><B>Wheels : </B>Rockrider Comp 32 hole rims by Rigida JT D041/D142 hubs, 2mm stainless steel spokes Watertight bearings.<BR><BR><B>Tyres : </B>New Rockrider Sport.<BR><BR><B>Pedals : </B>Wellgo 823 WPD clipless pedals. Safer and more effecient.<BR><BR><B>Size : </B>S, M, L and XL.<BR><BR><B>Weight : </B>12,85 Kg in Size S<BR><BR><B>Frame : </B>double thickness 6061 T6 aluminium; racing frame geometry; 1.9kg in size L. Hardwearing and lightweight. Its frame geometry provides the best compromise for climbing and downhill riding.<BR><BR><B>Suspension/Shock absorbers : </B>New Rock Shox RECON Silver TK 100mm fork. Remote Lock out at the handlebar. Effective rebound adjustment and lockout with a half turn of the lever.<BR><BR><B>Drivetrain : </B>Shimano Deore M590 22x32x44 crankset; SRAM X - 7 front derailleur; SRAM X - 7 rear derailleur; SRAM PG950 11x32 9-speed cassette.<BR><BR><B>Braking : </B>Avid ELIXIR 3 hydraulic disc brakes, 160 mm rotors. Powerful and progressive whatever the conditions<BR><BR><B>Handlebar/stem/saddle : </B>Rockrider Comp 600/400mm raised handlebar; Rockrider Comp stem; b'Twin MTB comp saddle. Oversize handlebar and stem, more durable and lighter. A raised riding position for added control and comfort without compromising on performance.<BR><BR><B>Wheels : </B>Rockrider Comp 32 hole rims by Rigida JT D041/D142 hubs, 2mm stainless steel spokes Watertight bearings.<BR><BR><B>Tyres : </B>New Rockrider Sport.<BR><BR><B>Pedals : </B>Wellgo 823 WPD clipless pedals. Safer and more effecient.<BR><BR><B>Size : </B>S, M, L and XL.<BR><BR><BR>


<BR>An awesome bike. Well specc'd, and only about a kilo heavier than yours Dave!<BR><BR>I'd recommend this too, as the fork and brakes put it way ahead of the competition. It even has Wellgo SPDs as standard..... <BR><BR>I'd definitely ride it on a red, but I'd change the tyres first. <BR><BR>Go for it percy.... after all the bawling and shouting you need at least to go to Decathlon and sit on one. <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt= src="http://www.cyclechat.net/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif"> <IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt= src="http://www.cyclechat.net/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/whistling.gif"> <BR>(Decathlon staff are pretty relaxed, but I don't know what their reaction wo a bit of willy-waving would be<IMG class=bbc_emoticon alt= src="http://www.cyclechat.net/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/rolleyes.gif"> )


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## Cubist (8 Sep 2011)

WTF?


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## Angelfishsolo (8 Sep 2011)

Cubist said:


> WTF?



It read just fine the first time!!


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## Cubist (8 Sep 2011)

It's cos I'm in the library........ ****ing cheapskate local authority computer bollocks.


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## cjb (8 Sep 2011)

```
Go for it percy.... after all the bawling and shouting you need at least to go to Decathlon and sit on one.
```

Absolutely, Cubist, and that's the next big decision, of course - getting the right size. On my own bikes I like to have a lot of seatpost showing, but this doesn't suit everyone.


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## Cubist (8 Sep 2011)

cjb said:


> ```
> Go for it percy.... after all the bawling and shouting you need at least to go to Decathlon and sit on one.
> ```
> 
> Absolutely, Cubist, and that's the next big decision, of course - getting the right size. On my own bikes I like to have a lot of seatpost showing, but this doesn't suit everyone.



I'm 5'11" with a 32" inside leg, ride an 18 inch. I have a good amount of seatpost showing.


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## cjb (8 Sep 2011)

Cubist said:


> I'm 5'11" with a 32" inside leg, ride an 18 inch. I have a good amount of seatpost showing.



I'm just about 5'8", but have a 33.5" inseam. Consequently, I use a 410mm post on a small/med frame, because I need a shortish top tube. I go along with the those who suggest you should run the smallest frame you can comfortably get away with.


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## Cyclist33 (9 Sep 2011)

Chucking the gt avalanche in there.


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