# Iron Horse Zebra Metropolitan



## Rebuild1961 (2 Feb 2018)

This bike was given to me and I'm wondering if I should bother spending time getting it road worthy. It's clean, needs tires and bearing on rear hub. Just looking for any feedback. Tks.


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## Hugh Manatee (2 Feb 2018)

Large frame. Relaxed geometry. Upright riding position. It could make a very worthy tourer. Iconic name from the MTB past as well. Didn't the later Horses have an odd sort of A frame?


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## raleighnut (2 Feb 2018)

Hugh Manatee said:


> Large frame. Relaxed geometry. Upright riding position. It could make a very worthy tourer. Iconic name from the MTB past as well. Didn't the later Horses have an odd sort of A frame?


Or a good 'hack' bike.


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## SkipdiverJohn (2 Feb 2018)

Hugh Manatee said:


> Large frame. Relaxed geometry. Upright riding position. It could make a very worthy tourer. Iconic name from the MTB past as well. Didn't the later Horses have an odd sort of A frame?



I'd be very happy if someone had given me that! Looks like it could make a nice tidy and useful bike without much expense or effort. Any reasonable quality 1980's and 1990's fully rigid bikes are always worth saving if they can be repaired and made useable for a modest outlay. The frames are sturdy and have sensible geometry, plus there are no suspension parts to wear out. Most of my bikes date from this era and don't have any stupid and useless modern "improvements" like sealed press-fit BB's and stems that need spacers to adjust them. These are simple, easy to fix, cheap to run bikes that will just keep going.


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## Rebuild1961 (2 Feb 2018)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> I'd be very happy if someone had given me that! Looks like it could make a nice tidy and useful bike without much expense or effort. Any reasonable quality 1980's and 1990's fully rigid bikes are always worth saving if they can be repaired and made useable for a modest outlay. The frames are sturdy and have sensible geometry, plus there are no suspension parts to wear out. Most of my bikes date from this era and don't have any stupid and useless modern "improvements" like sealed press-fit BB's and stems that need spacers to adjust them. These are simple, easy to fix, cheap to run bikes that will just keep going.


I do have a question. When I took apart the rear hub there a two thin washers that I can't remember where these go,(pic included) in not sure if these go on after the bearings or the go onto the lock ring.


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## Drago (2 Feb 2018)

Cheap and cheerful boat anchor - it may be from a hallowed brand of yore, but it's not exotic in any way. That said, it looks a step above the catalogue £99 BSO's, so if you can get it running safely again for less than £20 then its cheap, worthy and comfortable transport for someone. Eminently usable.


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## raleighnut (2 Feb 2018)

Rebuild1961 said:


> I do have a question. When I took apart the rear hub there a two thin washers that I can't remember where these go,(pic included) in not sure if these go on after the bearings or the go onto the lock ring.
> View attachment 394259


If that's a freewheel then good luck getting it back together again. Good news is a brand new 6/7 speed one is only a tenner ($15) approx.


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## Rebuild1961 (2 Feb 2018)

raleighnut said:


> If that's a freewheel then good luck getting it back together again. Good news is a brand new 6/7 speed one is only a tenner ($15) approx.


These bearings are for the axle not the freewheel. I forgot to mention this on the posting.


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## Rebuild1961 (2 Feb 2018)

Drago said:


> Cheap and cheerful boat anchor - it may be from a hallowed brand of yore, but it's not exotic in any way. That said, it looks a step above the catalogue £99 BSO's, so if you can get it running safely again for less than £20 then its cheap, worthy and comfortable transport for someone. Eminently usable.


Yep. Its just clean and needs tires and reassemble the axle bearings. Tks!


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## raleighnut (2 Feb 2018)

Rebuild1961 said:


> These bearings are for the axle not the freewheel. I forgot to mention this on the posting.


That's a heck of a lot of bearings, BMX type hub ? if the bike has a splined freehub conventional fitting says behind the cassette but that lockring looks much more like a freewheel unit lockring to me.


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## Rebuild1961 (2 Feb 2018)

raleighnut said:


> That's a heck of a lot of bearings, BMX type hub ? if the bike has a splined freehub conventional fitting says behind the cassette but that lockring looks much more like a freewheel unit lockring to me.


Small bearings go on freewheel reverse, the larger on the front side. I am guessing the 2 washers go on with the lock ring. When I'm home tonight I will mess with the reassembly while the freewheel is cleaned before I lube it and reinstall the bearings and lock ring, tks!


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## raleighnut (2 Feb 2018)

Rebuild1961 said:


> Small bearings go on freewheel reverse, the larger on the front side. I am guessing the 2 washers go on with the lock ring. When I'm home tonight I will mess with the reassembly while the freewheel is cleaned before I lube it and reinstall the bearings and lock ring, tks!


Like I posted good luck with re-assembling a freewheel, I took one apart as a youth and never managed to get it back together. Much later someone said you use a piece of thread to hold the 'Pawls' retracted then pull that out when it is nearly together. Nowadays once the sprockets have worn I just replace the lot and service the wheel bearings whilst the whole freewheel unit is off.


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## raleighnut (2 Feb 2018)

Rebuild1961 said:


> Small bearings go on freewheel reverse, the larger on the front side. I am guessing the 2 washers go on with the lock ring. When I'm home tonight I will mess with the reassembly while the freewheel is cleaned before I lube it and reinstall the bearings and lock ring, tks!



View: https://youtu.be/T_vRbBRPr3c


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## Rebuild1961 (2 Feb 2018)

raleighnut said:


> View: https://youtu.be/T_vRbBRPr3c



Tks. This is the video I needed. Now i see where the washers go.


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## Rebuild1961 (3 Feb 2018)

raleighnut said:


> Like I posted good luck with re-assembling a freewheel, I took one apart as a youth and never managed to get it back together. Much later someone said you use a piece of thread to hold the 'Pawls' retracted then pull that out when it is nearly together. Nowadays once the sprockets have worn I just replace the lot and service the wheel bearings whilst the whole freewheel unit is off.


Ok got the info I need, the washers rest on the hub body, the bearings are about 70 total ( 1/8 inch, found them on eBay 100 for $4.95. Just meet to get some marine grease and larger bearings for the other side of the hub and some patience) However, the lock ring for my peugeot 103 (another task waiting in the wings) has external spines. I think I was use channel lock pliers to tighten this one. Anyway, thank for the info and video link.


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## Rebuild1961 (3 Feb 2018)

Rebuild1961 said:


> Ok got the info I need, the washers rest on the hub body, the bearings are about 70 total ( 1/8 inch, found them on eBay 100 for $4.95. Just meet to get some marine grease and larger bearings for the other side of the hub and some patience) However, the lock ring for my peugeot 103 (another task waiting in the wings) has external spines. I think I was use channel lock pliers to tighten this one. Anyway, thank for the info and video link.


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## Rebuild1961 (3 Feb 2018)




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## Rebuild1961 (3 Feb 2018)

Rebuild1961 said:


> Ok got the info I need, the washers rest on the hub body, the bearings are about 70 total ( 1/8 inch, found them on eBay 100 for $4.95. Just meet to get some marine grease and larger bearings for the other side of the hub and some patience) However, the lock ring for my peugeot 103 (another task waiting in the wings) has external spines. I think I was use channel lock pliers to tighten this one. Anyway, thank for the info and video link.


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