# Lock broken in seconds!



## e-rider (10 Sep 2008)

This is just a few words of advice regarding bike locks.

Today, I returned to my bike to find the lock battered and smashed but luckily still in 1 piece. Unfortunately, the key would not longer fit in the lock so I had a small problem!

I managed to contact local security and after showing some ID they produced some bolt croppers and cut through my expensive ABUS lock in about 10 seconds!

My point is - any non D-lock style lock can be cut in seconds with bolt croppers. My ABUS lock cost £30 and I thought it was pretty tough. Luckily it saved my bike this time but after seeing the ease at which it was cut I'll not use a similar one again. It was a thick braided cable cover in hardened steel shells.

I know d-locks can be broken too but not quite as easily. Take good care of your bike and get a decent lock!


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## yenrod (10 Sep 2008)

tundragumski said:


> This is just a few words of advice regarding bike locks.
> 
> Today, I returned to my bike to find the lock battered and smashed but luckily still in 1 piece. Unfortunately, the key would not longer fit in the lock so I had a small problem!
> 
> ...



I'll look into the locks we use on the containers and get back to 'you' they're quite good.


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## lynx (13 Sep 2008)

You tube captain cropper to see some scary expensive locks cropped in seconds.

Cable locks are not safe either as cable cutters can go through them very easily.


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## hackbike 6 (14 Sep 2008)

Also depends on the area where you lock your bike.


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## Greenbank (15 Sep 2008)

If they really want to steal your bike they will.

A portable angle-grinder will cut through 90% of cables/locks (including D-locks) in under 10 seconds. The more expensive/chunky ones may take 30 seconds.

Even 16mm steel/boron chains like these: http://www.torc-anchors.com/security-chains.php which are guaranteed 42" bolt-cropper proof can be cut through in under a minute with a decent portable angle-grinder.

However, the better quality chain/lock the more people you'll deter. Just make sure your bike has a better quality chain/lock than the rest in the rack.


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## numbnuts (15 Sep 2008)

I have this one
The Granit X Plus is a long time favourite in _Cycling Plus_ tests. It has a very usable size and a reasonable weight, and a simple but clever bracket is included too. Under our first test(use of an extending bar for leverage to twist locks, a hammer, pliers, mole grips, wire cutters, chisel, axe and large bolt croppers), the Abus is simply brilliant the clever design of the shackle(square profile) means it simply will not twist or turn under leverage. The lock mechanism is protected with hardened steel, which blunts a hand hacksaw and the shackle resists this type of cutting just as well; it sailed through the five minute attack with a bit of cosmetic damage. 
Under test two(use of a quality battery drill rated to 12000rpm with a 30 minute battery life on max output - drill bit and metal cutting disc)the power tool took about a minute and a quarter to get through one side, but again due to the clever design and the double-bolt lock we still couldn't free the bike. This meant we had to cut through the other side too, leading to a very impressive time of over two and a half minutes. If you lock your bike with this lock, cleverly keeping one side of the shackle out of the way, this wouldn't be possible. Simply put, this is the best design available, and backed up by Abus's quality control makes the Granit X Plus the best U-lock you can buy.
*In conclusion...*

Only the most equipped, professional theives would stand a chance.
*Rating: 10/10*


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## e-rider (15 Sep 2008)

Well, now that I need a new lock I decided to break the bank and managed to get a Kryptonite New York 3000 from Wiggle.co.uk for £49 - I would say that it's significantly better then my last cable ABUS and should stop most scumbags - it weighs a tonne though!


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## yenrod (16 Sep 2008)

CISA 285/75


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## Twenty Inch (16 Sep 2008)

Cycle magazine did a piece recently on how easy it is to break locks. Don't bother with cable locks, they can be cut very easily. Even the SoldSecure Gold rating locks didn't last more than a minute. Why is that? Well, a cycle thief will use a stubby jack or a 42 inch bolt cropper. SoldSecure use tweezers, hammer, hairdryer, my wife's nailfile, when testing the product (I exaggerate, slightly). In any event, they don't use the same tools a thief would use? Why not? Because if they did, none of the locks would get a rating.

SoldSecure are now under investigation by trading standards authorities.


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## HLaB (16 Sep 2008)

I bought one of they locks too, it came with a cable too. I leave them in the bike locker at the work instead of lugging it about. 


tundragumski said:


> Well, now that I need a new lock I decided to break the bank and managed to get a Kryptonite New York 3000 from Wiggle.co.uk for £49 - I would say that it's significantly better then my last cable ABUS and should stop most scumbags - it weighs a tonne though!


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## grhm (17 Sep 2008)

Also worth a read: http://quickrelease.tv/?p=327


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## Tynan (23 Sep 2008)

I think people lose perspective on locks, best defence is not to leave your bike where the wrong people can have access to it without others noticing them

and for long enough for them to notice it and get the right tools to the scene

sure Sheldon say a hard lock and a cable are good because they require two separate tools

anyhow, the cops tend to take an interest in chavs wandering around with heavy duty tools

I do use £50 chains although I leave them where I have to leave the bike, in semi secure surroundings, no passing traffic and some sort of cctv/security

just about to fit a ground anchor to the trimetals shed as it happens


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## revs (6 Oct 2008)

I agree - if they want to steal it, they will, no matter what locks you use.

However, thieves tend to go for the easy steal. If it's difficult, and more than a few seconds work, then they will likely not bother.

Yesterday my GF's bike and many next to it were stolen. All the stolen bikes had cheap/thin cable locks. They were cut through (near the number pad).

My bike had an Abus D lock and a thick Abus cable lock. The locks weren't touched, no signs of tampering at all.

So the thieves obviously knew the locks weren't easy to break, and as such, didn't even bother.

Unfortunately I had not put the cable through the rear wheel - so that was stolen!

(All this was in a "Secure" Car Park with CCTV/lighting and security Patrols!)


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## e-rider (5 Nov 2008)

Does anyone know if that kryptonite lock stuffer is available yet?


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## gavintc (5 Nov 2008)

On the credit side, your previous lock deterred a would-be thief and was weak enough for you to get it cut by a locksmith. I think that is a result. Imagine the scenario that the lock was damaged by thief, but could not be cut by locksmith, you could have come back in the morning to a stripped down bike.


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## thomas (9 Nov 2008)

Has anyone seen those hand cuff style locks. Anyone tried them? Any good?

I have a D lock and cable lock. It's not the best combo but better than nothing.

I also remove anything that can't be locked (eg. the seat). Do you think removing the seat makes it less stealable?


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## Jergen99 (28 Nov 2008)

A few seconds to a few minutes - that's all that any lock can add to the security of your bicycle. I think the only way round it is to buy a dozen really cheap bikes, and just accept that sooner or later each will be nicked, in succession. The sad thing is you still need a lock, and that hikes up the cost, even of doing it like that. I think that's going to be my plan, anyway. There really is no other way apart from to never leave your bike in a public place, which means you can't use it for going to the shops or meeting people in town.


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## Jergen99 (6 Jan 2009)

I found the solution to bike security problems! Eg if you live in London and want to cycle to work. There are some good quality fold-up bikes out there! So you get one of those and you don't have to leave it in the outdoors. It can go in the same part of your workplace as things like coats and umbrellas. Ideal! No more fear of bike theft. I'm going to get one, I think. Although I have been thinking about relocating to another country, so i don't know if I'll want to cycle in a city I am unfamiliar with. Maybe I'll need to get used to it first.


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## allen-uk (21 Jan 2009)

This is the Cycling Plus review referred to above. 

http://a1.s3.p.quickshareit.com/files/locktestpt17ef52.pdf 

http://a1.s3.p.quickshareit.com/files/locktestpt2aad4a.pdf 

(It's a PDF, in two parts, and not a web page, so it will open in your PDF program.) 

An interesting read, though not for the paranoid (or for those with bikes that cost SO much it makes me shiver).

A.


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## RedBike (24 Jan 2009)

I once had the job of removing all the old locks that had been attached and left to a school bike rack. 

My plan was to use a hacksaw to cut the plastic/rubber coatings away then come back later in the day with a grinder.
I never needed the grinder. None of the locks took more than 30secs to cut through with a blunt hacksaw.


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## Bodhbh (26 Jan 2009)

RedBike said:


> I once had the job of removing all the old locks that had been attached and left to a school bike rack.
> 
> My plan was to use a hacksaw to cut the plastic/rubber coatings away then come back later in the day with a grinder.
> I never needed the grinder. None of the locks took more than 30secs to cut through with a blunt hacksaw.


That's worrying, these were cheap crappy locks or decent ones?

I had a browse around on Youtube a few weeks back and looked at all the bike lock breaking vids. People say 'only lasts 30s' and so on, but it was pretty heartening I thought seeing what a song and dance it really was to break a lock with tools: a hacksaw took 2-3mins, an angle grinder throws sparks all over the place and makes a racket, the huge bolt croppers really cannot be carried or used easily.

ofc all these making the vids to show off probably are not actually bike thiefs who have it down to a knack and even if it's obvious you are knicking a bike in a public spot what's the chance anyone will intervene.


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## another_dave_b (26 Jan 2009)

Bodhbh said:


> I had a browse around on Youtube a few weeks back and looked at all the bike lock breaking vids. People say 'only lasts 30s' and so on, but it was pretty heartening I thought seeing what a song and dance it really was to break a lock with tools:


Also, while it's said you can break a D-lock with a jack, there don't seem to be any videos of anyone actually doing that. 

There's any number of cable/chains being cut, none of D-locks.


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## another_dave_b (26 Jan 2009)

User3143 said:


> Yeah there is a vid on youtube of someone breaking a new york lock with a jack. He does make hard work of it though.



I've seen a video of someone mangling a D lock, I think with a trolley jack. But while the lock deformed, it didn't break.

EDIT
Sorry, you're quite right. My memory was at fault.


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## Black Sheep (2 Feb 2009)

Jergen99 said:


> A few seconds to a few minutes - that's all that any lock can add to the security of your bicycle. I think the only way round it is to buy a dozen really cheap bikes, and just accept that sooner or later each will be nicked, in succession. The sad thing is you still need a lock, and that hikes up the cost, even of doing it like that. I think that's going to be my plan, anyway. There really is no other way apart from to never leave your bike in a public place, which means you can't use it for going to the shops or meeting people in town.



my bike gets left in the middle of town or uni all the time and i'm yet to have a problem

you just have to be a complete bu99er when locking it up, making it so that you have to reach under the bike to get at the key hole, lock it in such a way that its off the floor (so no superglue, drilling or picking or hammering) with enough of the bike blocking it to make it hard work to get bolt croppers in, its a bit of a faff, but once you've figured out how to do it with your bike, it becomes quick and easy to do. 

at uni i just go for locking it to a nice bit of RSJ that i'd not want to cut with a cutting torch , tis a hefty bit of fire escape


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## Black Sheep (2 Feb 2009)

Bodhbh said:


> ofc all these making the vids to show off probably are not actually bike thiefs who have it down to a knack and even if it's obvious you are knicking a bike in a public spot what's the chance anyone will intervene.



slim to none, 

a friend of mine's lock key broke in the lock and jammed it
we went back a day or two later with a huge pair of bolt croppers, it cut like cheese and no one batted an eye lid as i pulled them out my pannier, cut the lock and stuffed them back in again.


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## dellzeqq (15 Feb 2009)

Brompton. Rubbish pedals, lousy bottom bracket, goes under the desk.


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## Dave5N (16 Feb 2009)

yebbut you're rich enough to afford a folding bike and yer own desk.


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## Black Sheep (18 Feb 2009)

yenrod said:


> CISA 285/75



they come off with a bit of help from a large sledge hammer

had to break into one of the containers in our compound during a summer job cos someone dropped the key into the lake along with one of the two way radios


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## Matt (21 Feb 2009)

I think with locks most thieves get put off by the quality of them

If you have a strong looking lock or one that looks like it would be a bit of a pain to get into, I doubt they would make too much effort trying to remove it

If you have a crappy cheap pound shop lock (I have bought these before, and they literally can be pulled apart in seconds) then they will be more likely to be targeted

Although, I agree with some posters that if they wanted the bike, then they will get it. It might take them longer, but eventually the lock will be broken

A few week ago I bought a really heavy duty lock for my new Allez. Got it bolted to the shed with a lock that weighs about 6kg, which cost around £80 from ScrewFix. Apparently it is bolt cropper resistant and hacksaw resistent. Its a monster


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## e-rider (22 Feb 2009)

...most locks are hacksaw proof until you fit a tungsten carbide blade!


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## mlg_gsb (10 Mar 2009)

*Advice please!*

Hello all

Just had the front wheel from my bike stolen. It was locked up with a d-lock with a plastic coated think wire type cord running through the wheels. Looks like that was cut with ease.

Anyway, they attempted to break the d-lock with no luck but instead blocked it so I can't now unlock my bike and move it.

Can anyone recomend how I can remove the d-lock. Will a hacksaw do the job? Or do i need to get some sort of grinder?

Thanks in advance


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## summerdays (10 Mar 2009)

Don't they do that when they are intending on coming back later to have a second go? I would think you would need more than a hack saw.


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## Amanda P (10 Mar 2009)

You'll be there a long time with a hacksaw. Better to find someone with an angle grinder.

If you manage to open it with a hacksaw, please let us know what sort of lock it is, so we don't buy one!


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## mlg_gsb (10 Mar 2009)

I've had a quote from a locksmith to open it up for £45 which aint too bad


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## Llama (10 Mar 2009)

you could hire a grinder for £20 - would only take a minute!


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## Cosmo (11 Mar 2009)

mlg_gsb said:


> Hello all
> 
> Just had the front wheel from my bike stolen. It was locked up with a d-lock with a plastic coated think wire type cord running through the wheels. Looks like that was cut with ease.
> 
> ...



where are you based I have a grinder ill cut the lock off for you

john


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## stonecastle (26 May 2009)

Some thieves will cut through the frame of high value bikes then weld in the cut out section later. Though this is very rare, but it does happen. So no lock is totally secure.

One of the best tactics I have found against cycle theft is simply not to have a high value bike. I always cycle around on old cheap bikes like three speeds because it is more peace of mind when I leave them somewhere for a long time.


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## skrx (26 May 2009)

numbnuts said:


> I have this one
> The Granit X Plus is a long time favourite in _Cycling Plus_ tests. It has a very usable size and a reasonable weight, and a simple but clever bracket is included too. [...] Simply put, this is the best design available, and backed up by Abus's quality control makes the Granit X Plus the best U-lock you can buy.



I obviously bought a dud, as when I locked my bike this morning the key snapped off in the lock. I'm not impressed. I have the Granit 51 (not the Granit X), but at £60 from BikeHut I was expecting it to last more than 12 weeks!

Outside work I lock the bike properly -- D-lock through the rear wheel and the frame, and onto a decent bike stand, with a cable lock through the front wheel and the frame.
The area I leave my bike in at work is private, and a thief probably wouldn't find it. Most people don't lock their bikes. I just lock the frame to a 'wheelbender' rack, with the bike sideways against the wall.

It took a man from the maintenance team about 45 seconds with a mains-powered angle grinder to cut through the lock; the cut was just wide enough (2cm) to free it from the rack. However, the two sides of the D were still rigid, and even with an improvised lever we couldn't widen the gap enough to get the lock over the frame (4cm?). It took another 45-second cut to get the lock off the frame. (It would probably have gone around a steel frame, but with scratches.)

So, I'm pleased with the security of the lock, but disappointed that the key snapped. And I'm relieved that it happened at work rather than on the street!


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## fossyant (30 May 2009)

You have to be very careful with the keys in most high end locks - my Magnum's say - "do not force the key - if it won't unlock try again..."


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## flying (5 Jun 2009)

i think no one is exude confidence for their lock, no matter how much you pay for one, the best way is bring your bike with you anywhere,


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## semislickstick (7 Jun 2009)

skrx said:


> I obviously bought a dud, as when I locked my bike this morning the key snapped off in the lock. I'm not impressed. I have the Granit 51 (not the Granit X), but at £60 from BikeHut I was expecting it to last more than 12 weeks!
> 
> Outside work I lock the bike properly -- D-lock through the rear wheel and the frame, and onto a decent bike stand, with a cable lock through the front wheel and the frame.
> The area I leave my bike in at work is private, and a thief probably wouldn't find it. Most people don't lock their bikes. I just lock the frame to a 'wheelbender' rack, with the bike sideways against the wall.
> ...



If this happens again and you have a spare key at home, you can get a tool called a key extractor or a lock smith can do it for you, if it's an expensive lock/super tough lock. Although using the grinder was probably more fun!


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## e-rider (9 Jun 2009)

It seems like keys snapping is a problem - my kryptonite new york came with a big warning sticker saying not to force the key.


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## skrx (12 Jun 2009)

I took it back to Halfords (ex BikeHut) yesterday. The manager asked for my receipt, said "What? This lock's only 3 months old!" and went to get a replacement. It wasn't in stock, so in the mean time he's lent me a cable lock he had spare.

So far, that's Halfords 1 - 0 LBS (I bought a defective light from the LBS, but they refused to exchange it, and I had to write to the manufacturer).


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## stonecastle (11 Aug 2009)

Always oil your lock regularly to prevent it becoming stiff and the key snapping. Oil it at least once a week with a small drop of oil.


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## der alt (16 Sep 2009)

Having had the single nicked at the weekend and the d lock cracked open by a wheel jack by the look of it ,it reminded me of a product brought out in the early 90's which was supposed to stop this happening ,if memory serves they were called bad bones they were supplied as a pack of 2 and went over the d part of the lock and spaced round the rack you were locking it to. I think i still have them somewhere ,meantime new bike has been ordered and a different lock is on the cards ..


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## Davidc (16 Sep 2009)

I use a sold Secure Gold D lock - not because I have much confidence that it's thief proof, but so the insurers will pay up! I also hope that any thief will go for another bike with a less good lock on it.

I also use an alarm, which I set when practical. That has worked twice now, and I count the blood left behind by one of the would be thieves as a success.


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## e-rider (17 Sep 2009)

Kryptonite released their own version of 'bad bones' recently but I've not seen them in the shops yet. It's a good idea, as are those mini d-locks that leave no space for the hydraulic jack.


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## gaz (17 Sep 2009)

skrx said:


> So far, that's Halfords 1 - 0 LBS (I bought a defective light from the LBS, but they refused to exchange it, and I had to write to the manufacturer).


You got mugged by the LBS then, under the sales of goods act, if a product is faulty, the seller has to replace it, and not the manufacturer. Thus you shouldn't have contacted the manufacturer.


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## ttcycle (18 Sep 2009)

my bike got stolen with the Kryptonite New York 3000 recently. Despite performing well in reviews...again if it's a bike the thieves want they will find away to get it- had locked it so access to it was awkward with two locks and was only gone for 40mins. Locks...limited in my experience!!!


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## skrx (20 Sep 2009)

gaz said:


> You got mugged by the LBS then, under the sales of goods act, if a product is faulty, the seller has to replace it, and not the manufacturer. Thus you shouldn't have contacted the manufacturer.



I know. I emailed the manufacturer (CatEye) and they posted the replacement part to me the next day, first class.

If the LBS had replaced the light there and then, they'd have sold me the lock; so it's their loss!


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