# Undoing pedals???



## loops (7 Jan 2012)

Help,

for some reason I cannot get my pedals off- I have bought some new ones, I have tried a spanner around the bolt which attaches it to crank, I have tried allen key type in other end of pedal, neither will budge, am aware of different threading to left etc...but not shifting..am I doing something wrong?? or do I need to find extremely strong person?


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## oldfatfool (7 Jan 2012)

Long handled pedal spanner, or a length of tube over your existing spanner. Maybe a squirt of penetrating oil.


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## GrasB (7 Jan 2012)

Okay.

Set bike so that it's up right & the pedal you're wanting to take off at 9 o'clock
attach spanner/allen key to the pedal
put one foot on the pedal & grab the spanner/allen key
push down with your foot & pull up with your arm, do this hard but don't strain your self
if the pedal doesn't fee up immediately slowly increase the pressure until you're really straining with your arm then stop
do steps 4 & 5 repeatedly until the pedal starts to unscrew


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## Garz (7 Jan 2012)

Always put a towel over the chainrings in case you slip!


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## Ian H (7 Jan 2012)

Dedicated pedal spanners are long - for a reason.


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## guitarpete247 (7 Jan 2012)

+1 for what others have suggested.
And when you put them (or new pedals) back on use a little grease. Or better still some copper slip grease. It makes getting them off easier in future.


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## Chrisc (7 Jan 2012)

Give it a nudge with the hammer. Shock might just free it up. If that fails get a bigger hammer. :-)


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## kishan (7 Jan 2012)

spanner and hammer and turn anti clockwise and it should come undone see link below for a guide 

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/pedal-installation-and-removal-pw-3-pw-4-pw-5-hcw-16


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## Keith Oates (8 Jan 2012)

Get a piece of wood or a concrete block and rest the pedal you are not wanting to remove on this. Then get someone to press down on the seat to keep the pedal in contact with the piece of wood and give the spanner on the pedal you're trying to remove a sharp hit with a hammer. That ususally gets it moving!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## xpc316e (8 Jan 2012)

Has anybody mentioned that the left hand pedal has a left hand thread?


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## Orange (8 Jan 2012)

Swapped mine today. I found standing on the opposite side to the pedal I was undoing made it easier. Couldn't shift it before but leaning over and using the spanner worked its magic.


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## Brommyboy (8 Jan 2012)

The easiest way is to put the spanner on the pedal nut, pointing backwards in a horizontal position. The foot then can hold the pedal while pressing down on the spanner, using full body weight. This works for both threads! The LH pedal has a LH thread.


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## loops (8 Jan 2012)

Brommyboy said:


> The easiest way is to put the spanner on the pedal nut, pointing backwards in a horizontal position. The foot then can hold the pedal while pressing down on the spanner, using full body weight. This works for both threads! The LH pedal has a LH thread.


 
YES! finally it turned!!...smashed head on handle bars...but will be worth it!!!


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## Wankelschrauben (9 Jan 2012)

LOL, sounds like the same problem I encountered last week on my GF's bike, brute force and stamping on the spanner worked for me.


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## Holy Warrior (10 Jan 2012)

Oh dear i've just ordered some new pedals...


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## kayaker (30 Mar 2012)

What grease is recommended, got some new pedals to fit myself. Seen Lithium grease mentioned [which is cheap if buy from auto spares], copper grease, silicone grease? Any brands recommended? A tub preferable to spray as would last longer.


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## youngoldbloke (30 Mar 2012)

Copper grease (mentioned above). A small tube will last ages. Helps prevent electrolytic corrosion and thus seizure between different metals. Use anywhere on the bike but not on moving parts.


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## kayaker (30 Mar 2012)

Will get some copper grease then. Any grease recommendations for moving parts/bearings etc?
Thanks in advance.


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## youngoldbloke (30 Mar 2012)

Personally use Progold EPX, I think it's a Lithium grease, but I am sure others have their favourites.


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## Boris Bajic (30 Mar 2012)

I can clarify the issue of rotational direction.

The right pedal has a right-handed thread, so loosening it anti-clockwise is right. That is, to the left from the top. So undoing the right pedal to the left from the top is right. Right?

The left pedal has a left-handed thread. Thus, when addressing the left pedal from the left of the bike, you must rotate right (or clockwise) to loosen it. That's right, not left, right?

Contrariwise, if using the allen bolts to the inside of the crank arm on some pedals, left becomes right and right becomes left.

Thus, if using an allen bolt on the inside of a left pedal (which will now appear to be a right pedal if you have rotated the bicycle for access) then instead of turning it to the left from the top you now need to turn right; right?

Similarly, the left pedal if loosened using the allen bolt will beed to be turned anticlockwise, which from the top is left, right?

I hope that's clear for you. I think I need to sit down; I feel a little dizzy.


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## sabian92 (30 Mar 2012)

What about cranks?

I've got a crank extractor and I can't work out how to use it...


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Mar 2012)

sabian92 said:


> What about cranks?
> 
> I've got a crank extractor and I can't work out how to use it...


Yes, please, tell us: I bought one, not sure how to use it. You tube says "hammer it in"???


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## Rickshaw Phil (30 Mar 2012)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Yes, please, tell us: I bought one, not sure how to use it. You tube says "hammer it in"???


What kind of extractor for what kind of crank?


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Mar 2012)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> What kind of extractor for what kind of crank?


Bottom bracket. Bought a tool from amazon, haven't got it yet. Old bike has loose bottom bracket, I'm experimenting servicing it  Got the pedals off no probs though


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## smokeysmoo (30 Mar 2012)

If it's for a square taper BB and look like the one below, then all you do is unscrew the 'socket' part off the tool, screw it into the BB threads, then screw the 'handle' part back in and tighten it. Once the tension is right the crank will be pulled free.





*WARNING - MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE FIRST PART AS IT WILL STRIP YOUR BB THREADS!*


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## Rickshaw Phil (30 Mar 2012)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Bottom bracket. Bought a tool from amazon, haven't got it yet. Old bike has loose bottom bracket, I'm experimenting servicing it  Got the pedals off no probs though


Bottom bracket tools are easy, provided you remember that the drive side undoes clockwise. Oh, and don't drop it and chip your paint which is what I often manage to do.


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Mar 2012)

smokeysmoo said:


> If it's for a square taper BB and look like the one below, then all you do is unscrew the 'socket' part off the tool, screw it into the BB threads, then screw the 'handle' part back in and tighten it. Once the tension is right the crank will be pulled free.
> 
> *WARNING - MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT CROSS THREAD THE FIRST PART AS IT WILL STRIP YOUR BB THREADS!*


 
Thanks for this. I think I bought a tool I already had! Need to study the situation before attempting action 
I am starting to have as many bike tools as I have gardening tools


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Mar 2012)

Update for smokey: yes, I have that tool, but I think it's for a car. It does not unscrew enough to go in the bike's front chain ring socket. Guess I'll have to wait for the bike specific tool to arrive. On the plus side, I discovered I've got a rear mesh removal tool ... weird


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Mar 2012)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> Bottom bracket tools are easy, provided you remember that the drive side undoes clockwise. Oh, and don't drop it and chip your paint which is what I often manage to do.


Cheers for that, Phil, I've put a pet's blanket under it.


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## sabian92 (30 Mar 2012)

No idea but it had a threaded nut on a bolt inside the pedal. Does that help?


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## Rickshaw Phil (30 Mar 2012)

sabian92 said:


> No idea but it had a threaded nut on a bolt inside the pedal. Does that help?


Not sure about that. Do you mean a threaded nut at the bottom bracket end of the crank? If so, you have to undo this before screwing the extractor onto the threads provided in the crank (as per smokeysmoo's post) then turning the handle to push the crank off the bottom bracket spindle. If you don't undo the nut first the threads for the crank puller will come out in a neat coil (not that I've *ever* done this of course ).


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## Boris Bajic (30 Mar 2012)

I find it helpful to think of a crank puller in terms of those threaded corkscrews one used to see, but which are less common these days.

If you aren't familiar with the sort of corkscrew I mean, think of it in terms of a crank puller.

I hope this is helpful.

I fear it is not.


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## sabian92 (30 Mar 2012)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> Not sure about that. Do you mean a threaded nut at the bottom bracket end of the crank? If so, you have to undo this before screwing the extractor onto the threads provided in the crank (as per smokeysmoo's post) then turning the handle to push the crank off the bottom bracket spindle. If you don't undo the nut first the threads for the crank puller will come out in a neat coil (not that I've *ever* done this of course ).


 
I meant the bottom bracket, not the pedal. As you can tell I've not done this before....

I don't understand how to use the tool. I've got one of these - the tool i've worked out I need is top left on that picture.

I did start to do it and some of the thread came off the inside of the crank because i'd arsed it up, is it a problem?


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## Rickshaw Phil (31 Mar 2012)

sabian92 said:


> I meant the bottom bracket, not the pedal. As you can tell I've not done this before....
> 
> I don't understand how to use the tool. I've got one of these - the tool i've worked out I need is top left on that picture.
> 
> I did start to do it and some of the thread came off the inside of the crank because i'd arsed it up, is it a problem?


I'm afraid the thread coming out is a problem as it won't now be possible to use the puller to remove the crank. I can see three possible reasons for this happening:

The crank is made of an inferior alloy and the threads were weak, or:
You used the little cup (which is shown with the crank puller in that link) which is intended for splined bottom brackets not square taper ones, or:
You did what I said in the earlier post and forgot to undo the nut.
I'll admit to having experienced two of the above problems in the past and only just stopped myself in time from doing the third. It's very annoying stripping the thread especially as it means ultimately having to replace the crank that is damaged.

Can I ask which crank have the threads pulled out of?


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## sabian92 (31 Mar 2012)

I think it was the right hand crank, knowing my luck that'd be the one that's more difficult to get off...

It probably is made from a weak alloy, it was a cheap hybrid I bought. I stripped it off so I could store it a bit easier and then when I had the money I could build it back up again without components made from cheese and marmalade...


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## Rickshaw Phil (31 Mar 2012)

Yeah the right hand one is slightly more difficult to remove (and more expensive to replace unfortunately) but there are a couple of options to get it off.

You could remove the nut and ride the bike - the movement will work the crank free after a few miles but will probably damage the square taper (you said it was a cheap hybrid so I'm presuming square taper) so it can't be re-used.

The other option is to pour plenty of boiling water over the bottom bracket end of the crank and carefully lever it off (the alloy crank will expand faster than the steel axle, releasing it's grip). Lever against the bottom bracket cartridge and the chainrings not the frame. Again this will probably damage the chainrings so they can't be re-used.

I have used both these methods successfully but I must emphasise that they are really last resort measures.


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## sabian92 (31 Mar 2012)

Bollocks...

I can't ride it - there are literally just the front forks and the cranks still on. I was planning on completely stripping it down to just the frame so any damage to components (including the BB) is not a problem. I've stripped the thread off one side so i'm going to pour boiling water over it at some stage and see if that works.

How do I get the other crank off though, as in the normal way? I still have no idea how to use the tool


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## Rickshaw Phil (31 Mar 2012)

Oh, that's a pain.

The crank puller is easy to use but I'm not sure how best to describe it, so I hope this makes sense:
The tool has a two threaded parts a central peg and an outer collar. Both parts have a normal clockwise thread.
Remove the nut holding the crank on.
Unscrew the collar so that the peg isn't protruding then screw the collar into the threads in the crank. Make sure it goes all the way in to the threads. (You might have to unscrew the collar a long way).
Then screw the peg back in which as it goes in will push the crank off the axle. As you do this it will be pretty tight at first then will quickly become easier.

It might be worth trying it in the drive side too as you might be lucky (method is just the same). Using a bit of boiling water just might free it enough that the tool will work.

I hope that helps.

Edit: If it is square taper, don't use the little seperate cup with the crank extractor as this is intended for splined crank axles.


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## sabian92 (31 Mar 2012)

I gave up and used the Jeremy Clarkson school of thought and used a hammer.... Got it off in a minute  thank you though.


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## Rickshaw Phil (1 Apr 2012)

Ah, the Birmingham screwdriver method. I did try that in desperation but it didn't work for me. I'm glad it's sorted.


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## sabian92 (1 Apr 2012)

Now, to get the BB out... without a BB tool. Somebody at Ice Toolz must hate me for not putting one in considering I paid 50 quid for that tool kit..


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## Boris Bajic (1 Apr 2012)

Serious recommendation: For buying tools whose use you are not sure about, go to a good LBS.

The current fascination for buying online at a saving incurs the invisible cost of losing the priceless element of guidance and advice from a good LBS.

I buy my tools from my LBS and they all cost more than the same one would online.

But...

1. The LBS is still there the next morning/week/year. And the guy knows my name.

2. He can say "This one is cheaper, but just as good for what you want".

3. he can say stuff like "Make sure you're ready to catch the bearings when they fall out" and similar.

There are things I buy online, but not shoes, tools and one or two other bits.


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## Norm (1 Apr 2012)

And he can also say stuff like "Bring it in when you can and I'll whip that off if you get me a packet of Hob Nobs, rather than you buying the tool for one use."


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## Pat "5mph" (2 Apr 2012)

You are all a mine of information, thanks! I'm trying to do exactly what Sabian92 is trying to do, I bought the same tool and watched the video on you tube by the manufacturer, Park Tools. I can confirm it does not work, with or without the round bit Phil has mentioned. I have also read carefully all of Phil's instructions - they are the same as the manufacturer's  still the thing is not shifting.
Have not tried hammer and boiling water yet, I think I will go to lbs first, with the frame, see if they can remove this resiliant crank. Btw, I have almost stripped the thread of the tool's nut that you are supposed to turn to loose the crank.
Now, I'm all for running to the lbs, no expenses spared, but mine does not carry much stock, plus they keep erratic hours, and I work shifts, can never get to them when I need them.
Also, they made it clear they are not interested in rescuing my old banger because it is not cost effective. I don't hold it against them, in fact they sold me a new bike, but I will not surrender my project, because it helps me learn my mechanics and also because that old frame fits my wee legs to a t, better than my new ride.
Keep going Sabian!


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## asterix (2 Apr 2012)

Garz said:


> Always put a towel over the chainrings in case you slip!


 
Good advice! Those rings have sharp teeth.. I always put the chain on the top ring too.


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## Rickshaw Phil (2 Apr 2012)

Pat "5mph" said:


> You are all a mine of information, thanks! I'm trying to do exactly what Sabian92 is trying to do, I bought the same tool and watched the video on you tube by the manufacturer, Park Tools. I can confirm it does not work, with or without the round bit Phil has mentioned. I have also read carefully all of Phil's instructions - they are the same as the manufacturer's  still the thing is not shifting.
> Have not tried hammer and boiling water yet, I think I will go to lbs first, with the frame, see if they can remove this resiliant crank. Btw, I have almost stripped the thread of the tool's nut that you are supposed to turn to loose the crank.
> Now, I'm all for running to the lbs, no expenses spared, but mine does not carry much stock, plus they keep erratic hours, and I work shifts, can never get to them when I need them.
> Also, they made it clear they are not interested in rescuing my old banger because it is not cost effective. I don't hold it against them, in fact they sold me a new bike, but I will not surrender my project, because it helps me learn my mechanics and also because that old frame fits my wee legs to a t, better than my new ride.
> Keep going Sabian!


Have I understood right, the thread on the tool itself is stripping? If so I'd be taking that back to the shop as it sounds faulty to me. If the thread in the crank is still okay, try it again with some boiling water as it does make a difference. (Don't get the boiling water on your frame as it may crack the paint.)


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## Pat "5mph" (3 Apr 2012)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> Have I understood right, the thread on the tool itself is stripping? If so I'd be taking that back to the shop as it sounds faulty to me. If the thread in the crank is still okay, try it again with some boiling water as it does make a difference. (Don't get the boiling water on your frame as it may crack the paint.)


 
Hi Phil,
thanks for the reply. I will try the boiling water tomorrow. I am not worried about the paint, as I would like to strip and repaint the frame.
What is stripped, well almost, I can still grip it with a wrench, is the bit of the tool (the nut) that you are supposed to turn to finally undo the crank. This nut is now almost a smooth round: I must be really forceful for a wee woman 
The thread in the crank seems to be ok, I can see that the bit I'm supposed to screw in it is not even reaching it.
Thanks again, will keep you updated


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## Rickshaw Phil (3 Apr 2012)

> What is stripped, well almost, I can still grip it with a wrench, is the bit of the tool (the nut) that you are supposed to turn to finally undo the crank. This nut is now almost a smooth round: I must be really forceful for a wee woman


 Remind me not to annoy you.


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