# Old style TREK MULTITRACK 700



## User32269 (28 Feb 2017)

Anyone got experience of running an old (90's) Trek Multitrack 700?
I've been looking for a go anywhere bike; I'm liking the large volume 700 tyre capacity, cantis, and high chainset ground clearance. 
Very tempted by one for sale locally.


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## biggs682 (28 Feb 2017)

odav said:


> Anyone got experience of running an old (90's) Trek Multitrack 700?
> I've been looking for a go anywhere bike; I'm liking the large volume 700 tyre capacity, cantis, and high chainset ground clearance.
> Very tempted by one for sale locally.



No experience of that actual bike , but it sounds like it all adds up so go for it


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## User32269 (28 Feb 2017)

Not a great quality bike, but looks perfect to turn into a cheep rough track tourer.


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## User32269 (28 Feb 2017)

It's now in the shed! Cromo frame, chunky 700 wheels, old school canti brakes and acres of ground clearance. Just what I need. Praying Mrs O doesn't spot it.


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## Gravity Aided (1 Mar 2017)

Not a bad bicycle, no lightweight, and the group set isn't bad, pretty dependable machine for commuting. 
This will help you figure out what year it is.
http://www.vintage-trek.com/model_numbers1.htm


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

Gravity Aided said:


> Not a bad bicycle, no lightweight, and the group set isn't bad, pretty dependable machine for commuting.
> This will help you figure out what year it is.
> http://www.vintage-trek.com/model_numbers1.htm


Cheers. Plastic pedals and twist grip gears...everything I would tell people to avoid! But, with a bit of fettling, will be good for another 30 years.


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## Blue Hills (2 Mar 2017)

Have vague memories that I've seen one on a London ride.Had the impression that it was a good bike. Who cares about "lightweight" - it's quality that counts.

A lot of good steel bikes were produced in the 90s - I have three. And a fourth from 2016 that owes a lot to 90s steel.


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

I've always liked rigid 26" wheeled steel mtb's, think they are great commuter / all rounders. Recently discovered the joy of old 700cc wheeled hybrid things, they offer everything you could want from one bike to be a tourer, commuter, and have really good off road abilities.
Im getting sadder the older I get, just refuse to buy a halford cheep aluminium bike, instead spend money, time and effort farting about with ancient steel beasts. But I like them!


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## Blue Hills (2 Mar 2017)

odav said:


> It's now in the shed! Cromo frame, chunky 700 wheels, old school canti brakes and acres of ground clearance. Just what I need. Praying Mrs O doesn't spot it.


By the by odav can I ask how much it cost and where you got it? Surely it's not an amount that should concern the possibly bejewelled Mr O?


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## Blue Hills (2 Mar 2017)

Gravity Aided said:


> Not a bad bicycle, no lightweight, and the group set isn't bad, pretty dependable machine for commuting.
> This will help you figure out what year it is.
> http://www.vintage-trek.com/model_numbers1.htm


Good link gravity. If you know a similar site for Ridgebacks i'd be interested as there seems to be little on the web. It was a shock to me a few years ago to find that my original ridgeback is now classed as "vintage" - god knows what that makes its rider.


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> By the by odav can I ask how much it cost and where you got it? Surely it's not an amount that should concern the possibly bejewelled Mr O?


Got it in a bundle of stuff for fifty quid the lot. It's not the cash that's the problem, it's the space, and the fact I no longer sell anything on. I will sell my old Raleigh Pioneer and keep the Trek, telling Mrs O "Must be something wrong with your eyes, I've had this bike for years love."


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

Surprisingly nice ride. Will get fettling soon.


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## Blue Hills (2 Mar 2017)

Now that's a nice bike - got yourself a bargain there. Great for day rides and i see no good reason why it couldn't go round the world with you. Like you, my rekationships with ally bikes are all in the past. Enjoy it.


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## Gravity Aided (2 Mar 2017)

The only problem I see is with the shifters, an upgrade there would not be remiss. But not necessary at present, if they are working well.


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## Blue Hills (2 Mar 2017)

Fair point.

I would actually do this sharpish though as "the industry" is discontinuing lots of decent quality stuff for less than 10 speed. Move quickly odav and you should find some good prices. I would also buy in some spares of key components - then let the industry continue on its merry way to 16 speed or whatever. And just get on and enjoy your bike.


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## EltonFrog (2 Mar 2017)

Nice looking bike, love the colour.


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## Gravity Aided (2 Mar 2017)

Something in a 7 speed click shifter, like a Shimano Acera or above, would be both reasonable and reliable.


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

I've got a couple of alivio groupsets put away for emergencies! Will be swapping one on to this. I find them absolutely bomb proof, and they usually fit without too many problems.


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> Fair point.
> 
> I would actually do this sharpish though as "the industry" is discontinuing lots of decent quality stuff for less than 10 speed. Move quickly odav and you should find some good prices. I would also buy in some spares of key components - then let the industry continue on its merry way to 16 speed or whatever. And just get on and enjoy your bike.


I've made a habit of throwing every bike that I've found left out for the scrap man in my van. I always carry a 15mm spanner and multi tool, this is the reason Mrs O despairs!
Ive salvaged dozens of 5,6&7 freewheels, lower end shimano chain sets, shifters & derailers. They have served me well in cheep restorations and fixing friends and family members bikes. 
I'm running a bit low now!


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## Blue Hills (2 Mar 2017)

very true. That pic of mine you liked uses the original supposedly low end acera 20 year old front mech. Though originally used on a 7 speed set up on that bike, it works very well (with a trimming front click shifter) on the 9 speed I have built the bike up into. 

I had assumed that the mech was scrap (it's pretty much all that came with the frame) but after having issues with a posher front mech, inspiration struck - I cleaned and lubed it and it all works fine. I think a near equivalent of that front mech is still available from some sources for less than £9. I intend to buy up a load quickly.

Once you get to 10 speed of course things get somewhat more complicated with this wonderful backwards compatibility.

Correction - they get totally ****ed.

PS - where are you? - might be worthwhile me whispering poison into Mrs 0's ear so that I can have your treasure trove thrown my way.


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## Gravity Aided (2 Mar 2017)

odav said:


> I've made a habit of throwing every bike that I've found left out for the scrap man in my van. I always carry a 15mm spanner and multi tool, this is the reason Mrs O despairs!
> Ive salvaged dozens of 5,6&7 freewheels, lower end shimano chain sets, shifters & derailers. They have served me well in cheep restorations and fixing friends and family members bikes.
> I'm running a bit low now!


Much the same situation as I have, but I got rid of a lot of things to another local bicycle recycler. Of course, there is still a double secret stash in the basement.


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## User32269 (2 Mar 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> PS - where are you? - might be worthwhile me whispering poison into Mrs 0's ear so that I can have your treasure trove thrown my way.


Whisper what you want to my better half......just keep yer hands of my freewheels!


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## User32269 (4 Mar 2017)

Got to get gear and brake cables adjusted and cut, but will be giving it a run out later.


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## Blue Hills (4 Mar 2017)

question and a suggestion.

when you say the frame is chromo, any more info than that?

If you do fully loaded touring on it (and I see no reason why you shouldn't) I would consider changing the brakes to V brakes.

Cantis are fine for round down use but you may find that going down some hills you will have a problem when loaded - you will stop but it may take a while. I changed one of my 90s Ridgebacks to V brakes. Deore brakes. Paired with the cheapest levers (I preferrred them to the more expensive ones I bought) cost me about £12. Brake pads come from discobrakes - also cheap. Sometimes, if you don't let them sucker you in, cycling can be so simple


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## Spiderweb (4 Mar 2017)

The bike that first got me back into cycling was a 1994 ( I think?) Trek 830 Mountain Track. I swapped the knobbly tyres for some slick tyres and swapped the rusty quill stem for an ahead adapter and longer stem. The Trek will go anywhere, I find the Cantis ok, 7 speed twist grip shifters work fine, the Cromo frame is surprisingly light and the bike is bulletproof.


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## User32269 (4 Mar 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> question and a suggestion.
> 
> when you say the frame is chromo, any more info than that?
> 
> ...


Just a bog standard cro mo frame, I think it's a 2001 model, later than I thought. 
I don't really have any problems with the cantis, mainly the bike will be used for bombing about rough paths and canal towpaths, I like the cantis purely for the clearance.
Will put on mini v brakes if I ever go on full blown tour.


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## Gravity Aided (4 Mar 2017)

I used to always look for the Schwinns, Treks, and Cannondales, as well as Specialized bikes from this period. I find the Treks most amenable to repair, the Schwinns quite good on features, and the Specialized and Cannondales a little better made, but a bit more trouble sometimes to work on. In terms of group setand tubing, usually the Schwinn has the lowest quality group in class, and the Treks are a bit higher, Cannondale and Specialized usually a little better, with some notable exceptions. I'm still riding a Schwinn Impact from the 1990's as a 26" tourer, modified much as @Spiderweb has above. Built with a far lighter and better tubing from what one expects of a Schwinn, this bike also has the most lowly indexed Shimano group set imaginable. I also converted to drop bars. I also have 2 sets of wheels, one that will take from 1.5 to 3" tires+, and another for the 1-1.5" tires. Mini v's coming soon.


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## User32269 (4 Mar 2017)

[QUOTE 4707388, member: 43827"]Nice, do anything bike.

Much like the Raleigh Pioneer, a lot of which we get donated to our community bike workshop. Easy to work on and, if looked after, will go on forever.[/QUOTE]
My Pioneer has sacrificed a few bits for the trek. Have put the trek bars on it. Going to become a 7 speed pub/shopping bike, using the twist grip and the saddle from the trek.




I like the Pioneers, solid old bikes.


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## User32269 (4 Mar 2017)

Gravity Aided said:


> I used to always look for the Schwinns, Treks, and Cannondales, as well as Specialized bikes from this period. I find the Treks most amenable to repair, the Schwinns quite good on features, and the Specialized and Cannondales a little better made, but a bit more trouble sometimes to work on. In terms of group setand tubing, usually the Schwinn has the lowest quality group in class, and the Treks are a bit higher, Cannondale and Specialized usually a little better, with some notable exceptions. I'm still riding a Schwinn Impact from the 1990's as a 26" tourer, modified much as @Spiderweb has above. Built with a far lighter and better tubing from what one expects of a Schwinn, this bike also has the most lowly indexed Shimano group set imaginable. I also converted to drop bars. I also have 2 sets of wheels, one that will take from 1.5 to 3" tires+, and another for the 1-1.5" tires. Mini v's coming soon.


The trek had pretty low grade kit, but I like the frame. I've used an A head converter and, depending on the riding position, plan to convert it to shallow drops with bar end shifters. Will be running it as it is now for a while though.


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