# Joseph Kuosac Handlebar for M type



## Tenkaykev (10 May 2019)

Has anyone swapped out the stock Brompton M bars ( pre 2017 ) for the Joseph Kuosac ones?
I've read elsewhere that they are more rigid than stock, and have a slight backwards sweep which some say they find more comfortable. They are also wider so they would need cutting down, but perhaps you could have them slightly wider than stock and still have them fold ok.

There's a local hill I really struggle on despite a 44 tooth front chainring. When I'm gasping my way up the last bit I can feel the bars flexing slightly.


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## Brocky49 (10 May 2019)

Tenkaykev said:


> Has anyone swapped out the stock Brompton M bars ( pre 2017 ) for the Joseph Kuosac ones?
> I've read elsewhere that they are more rigid than stock, and have a slight backwards sweep which some say they find more comfortable. They are also wider so they would need cutting down, but perhaps you could have them slightly wider than stock and still have them fold ok.
> 
> There's a local hill I really struggle on despite a 44 tooth front chainring. When I'm gasping my way up the last bit I can feel the bars flexing slightly.



Yes, I have. I usually ride a road bike and the M was a bit too upright. I found that swapping between the two types of bikes a bit unnerving. I have reduced the width to about 520mm, partly because I ride the road bike on the hoods and also if you don't reduce the width, you may have a problem with cables in the fold position. FWIW, I also have the 44 tooth chainring, to cope with the lumps that surround the Somerset levels.


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## Kell (10 May 2019)

I didn't, but I swapped mine out for a low riser with a slight sweep.

From memory of watching a video where he demonstrates his bars, I think they have an 11 degree backward sweep.


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## Kell (10 May 2019)

Tell a lie - it's 12 degrees.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4088L8pP4MY


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## Schwinnsta (11 May 2019)

Since the bar has some sweep back, won't the fold be a little thicker?


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## Brocky49 (11 May 2019)

It doesn't add that much to the fold, in fact the Ergon GP1 grips are more significant.

See attached:-


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## Tenkaykev (11 May 2019)

Brocky49 said:


> It doesn't add that much to the fold, in fact the Ergon GP1 grips are more significant.
> 
> See attached:-
> 
> View attachment 466076



Lovely looking Bike, Impressed by how immaculate it looks. Is it a pre 2017 M Model? 
I've gone for the Ergon GP1 on my 2015 Orange and Black Special Edition but those black grips go really well.


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## Schwinnsta (11 May 2019)

Thanks


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## madrian (15 Aug 2020)

Anyone fitted Joseph's full rise handlebar on pre 2017 "M" model? Someone said that will be too high, someone that it is a 1 in 1 replacement.


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## leinadhok (16 Aug 2020)

Kell said:


> I didn't, but I swapped mine out for a low riser with a slight sweep.
> 
> ...



Hi @Kell,

Did you have to change/shorten the cables (from M to S) as well?


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## Tenkaykev (16 Aug 2020)

madrian said:


> Anyone fitted Joseph's full rise handlebar on pre 2017 "M" model? Someone said that will be too high, someone that it is a 1 in 1 replacement.


Hi Just saw your post. I ended up fitting the full rise Joseph Kuosac replacement bars to my 2015 M
Straight swap, the handlebars are wider and I used a Plumbers pipe Slice to shorten them enough so the left hand side takes a 130mm Ergon grip ( just ). I left the right hand side slightly wider as that side doesn't affect the fold and you can't notice the slight assymetry.


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## madrian (16 Aug 2020)

Tenkaykev said:


> Hi Just saw your post. I ended up fitting the full rise Joseph Kuosac replacement bars to my 2015 M
> Straight swap, the handlebars are wider and I used a Plumbers pipe Slice to shorten them enough so the left hand side takes a 130mm Ergon grip ( just ). I left the right hand side slightly wider as that side doesn't affect the fold and you can't notice the slight assymetry.



Finally, the only answer on whole internet. I am searching for this information for a week now. Any chance for a photo in folded/unfolded status of your bike? 

I am thinking on one more thing In case of full rise JK handlebar: what if I raise the bike with telescopic wheels (sure it adds 1-2-3cm to overall height instead of stock small wheels)? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000496104708.html maybe it needs even smaller cut from the end.


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## Tenkaykev (17 Aug 2020)

madrian said:


> Finally, the only answer on whole internet. I am searching for this information for a week now. Any chance for a photo in folded/unfolded status of your bike?
> 
> I am thinking on one more thing In case of full rise JK handlebar: what if I raise the bike with telescopic wheels (sure it adds 1-2-3cm to overall height instead of stock small wheels)? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000496104708.html maybe it needs even smaller cut from the end.



Hahaha 😁 I fitted similar too, photos later today


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## Tenkaykev (17 Aug 2020)

Photos as promised...


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## madrian (17 Aug 2020)

This is awesome, thank you very much. I am so happy someone did this before me and it is worked.


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## Kell (18 Aug 2020)

leinadhok said:


> Hi @Kell,
> 
> Did you have to change/shorten the cables (from M to S) as well?



Hi there - mine isn't quite as simple as that as I started off with an H-type bike (2016). I don't have a picture of it with the original bars fitted as I never rode it like that. But this is the generated shot from my order.







The reason for going for the H type is that the stem folds from a higher hinge point to allow for the higher height of the bars so they don't foul the ground when folded.

*NB: I'd caution anyone thinking about fitting flat bars to the older M type as you'll end up with a bike that's even lower than the S-type as the clamp is lower.

(I don't know enough about the new stems to advise on those)*

As shown:






I figured going this way would be easier because I could always shorten my original cables if they didn't work, but I couldn't lengthen them if they ended up too short if I went from an S type.

As it happens, I ended up not doing anything with them for ages as everything worked perfectly. It all just looked a little untidy.











I don't remember the length of the bars I replaced them with, but I cut around 1.5 cm off each end - really just because they felt a lot wider than the originals, not because of the fold. It folded perfectly.






I've since replaced the ones in the picture because they're coming up for 5 years old and they're aluminium. 

I recently had a crank snap on me. (Before anyone jumps in on this, it was probably caused by some sort of impact and had, in fact cracked for some time before it finally went completely) but Brompton themselves see their aluminium parts as replaceable, so I replaced the frame clamps at the same time as the crankset. And then figured I'd get some new bars too.

They are Ritchey Risers, but were an absolute shoot to fit as the bends are slightly different to ones I replaced and it took some work to get them in the clamp. Only ridden it once since then though which was last weekend.


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## tvdc (20 May 2021)

Hi, 
Firstly, thanks for admission to the forum! 
My question(s) and reason for joining is partly to do with this thread ... I have an S Type Brompton with stock 520mm handlebar, but for a handful of reasons wanted a slightly wider bar and one with a bit more road dampening. 
I've purchased a JK flat carbon bar, which I intend to cut down to 560mm. Has anyone done anything similar? Will I have to change the cables? Will M cables do it if so? And can anyone point me in the direction of a tutorial? 
Thanks again!


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## TheDoctor (20 May 2021)

For cutting carbon, use a new fine tooth hacksaw blade, wear gloves and a mask, and work outside if you can. Carbon dust is 'orrible stuff. Google 'cut carbon tube' and you'll get no end of YouTube video guides - mostly talking about cutting fork stems, but it's just the same.
As far as cable length goes, the normal Brompton grips are really narrow. Put some roomier grips on, maybe bar ends too and the levers will end up in much the same positions, so you probably won't need new cables.


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## T4tomo (20 May 2021)

Not done it, but you are talking about moving the position of the brake lever outward by approx 20mm each side. I can't see any reason why the existing cable wouldn't work, there is a bit of room for manoeuvre / slack in the cable when folded.


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## tvdc (20 May 2021)

TheDoctor said:


> For cutting carbon, use a new fine tooth hacksaw blade, wear gloves and a mask, and work outside if you can. Carbon dust is 'orrible stuff. Google 'cut carbon tube' and you'll get no end of YouTube video guides - mostly talking about cutting fork stems, but it's just the same.
> As far as cable length goes, the normal Brompton grips are really narrow. Put some roomier grips on, maybe bar ends too and the levers will end up in much the same positions, so you probably won't need new cables.



Thanks for these tips and info. Not wanting to sound overly showy but it's a CHPT3 bike and came with 130mm ergon grips - they weren't to my taste and I switched them to GS3s with bar ends - so I don't think I have that wiggle room you describe. I'll perhaps cut the handleabr and see how it all fits then report back!


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## tvdc (20 May 2021)

T4tomo said:


> Not done it, but you are talking about moving the position of the brake lever outward by approx 20mm each side. I can't see any reason why the existing cable wouldn't work, there is a bit of room for manoeuvre / slack in the cable when folded.



Yes, 20mm each side. I'll give it a go and find out! I went in to a Brompton dealer today and they essentially said they wouldn't change the cables for me - something to do with not wanting to be involved with after market parts. I love Brompton bikes but there are simple and affective ways to improve them but heigh ho.


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## Tenkaykev (24 May 2021)

tvdc said:


> Yes, 20mm each side. I'll give it a go and find out! I went in to a Brompton dealer today and they essentially said they wouldn't change the cables for me - something to do with not wanting to be involved with after market parts. I love Brompton bikes but there are simple and affective ways to improve them but heigh ho.


I was going to fit JK Mid rise bars on my C3, went as far as buying the bars and popped into my local Brompton dealer who said he'd be more than happy to fit the new bars and supply / fit new cables. I decided against doing the mod in the end, perhaps a different Brompton dealer would be happy to do the work?


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## tvdc (26 May 2021)

Tenkaykev said:


> I was going to fit JK Mid rise bars on my C3, went as far as buying the bars and popped into my local Brompton dealer who said he'd be more than happy to fit the new bars and supply / fit new cables. I decided against doing the mod in the end, perhaps a different Brompton dealer would be happy to do the work?



That's interesting. Do you mind me asking who the dealer is? i live in Birmingham and there are only two Brompton dealers left (Halfords aside). I went to the one nearer me as the shop I usually go to for servicing etc are a bit further away. 

All that said, I fitted the handlebar yesterday having cut it down to 560mm. Cables seem slightly snug only in kickstand mode. I'll see how I get on.


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## Tenkaykev (26 May 2021)

tvdc said:


> That's interesting. Do you mind me asking who the dealer is? i live in Birmingham and there are only two Brompton dealers left (Halfords aside). I went to the one nearer me as the shop I usually go to for servicing etc are a bit further away.
> 
> All that said, I fitted the handlebar yesterday having cut it down to 560mm. Cables seem slightly snug only in kickstand mode. I'll see how I get on.


It’s “ Cycle Paths” in Poole. Small family business and very friendly. I did swap the bars on my 2015 M6L for JK ones and cut them down asymmetrically so I could use standard Ergon grips without needing to trim the grips.


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## tvdc (26 May 2021)

Tenkaykev said:


> It’s “ Cycle Paths” in Poole. Small family business and very friendly. I did swap the bars on my 2015 M6L for JK ones and cut them down asymmetrically so I could use standard Ergon grips without needing to trim the grips.



That's a bit too much of a commute from Birmingham! 

Interesting about cutting the bar down asymmetrically - my OCD type tendencies would never allow me to do that!


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## mitchibob (26 May 2021)

tvdc said:


> Interesting about cutting the bar down asymmetrically - my OCD type tendencies would never allow me to do that!



The markings on the JK bars do make cutting down to your desire very easy, whether asymmetrically or otherwise, keeping OCD tendencies intact.


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## 12boy (27 May 2021)

Being a degenerate heretic, I have never got too wired about Brompton cable lengths and even skipped running the front brake cable with the split gatherer. Folds just fine anyway. In fact, the shorter and simpler cable run seems to maybe help the braking. 
The rear brake even with the less convoluted cable housing run was not returning the lever to the proper open position. My LBS go-to-guy suggested some Jagwire cable housing that has both the spiral wound sheathing and the straight wires you see on shifter cabling. This did the trick. Here's a couple of pics of my Brompton which I hope are clear enough for the cable housing to be visible.


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## sdawila (31 May 2021)

Tenkaykev said:


> Has anyone swapped out the stock Brompton M bars ( pre 2017 ) for the Joseph Kuosac ones?
> I've read elsewhere that they are more rigid than stock, and have a slight backwards sweep which some say they find more comfortable. They are also wider so they would need cutting down, but perhaps you could have them slightly wider than stock and still have them fold ok.
> 
> There's a local hill I really struggle on despite a 44 tooth front chainring. When I'm gasping my way up the last bit I can feel the bars flexing slightly.



mine is 2014 M3LD (D is for dynamo hub), cobalt blue color, loving it. I have the original M handlebar replaced few months ago with Joseph Kousac mid rise handle bar (8 cm) carbon fibre and it did crank up the bike performance instanly.

I will upgrade most of the M3LD component next month, I do enjoy the 44T and it's perfect for cities with small hills and flat area. I own 2 more brompton bikes and 2 of them are 2018 Raw Lacquer M6L and 2019 Purple Metallic M6R for the wife, these 2 bikes are awesome but M3LD is far better because it's simplest and easier for maintenance since it does not have chain pusher, less headache believe me.


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## bromptonautie (21 Jun 2021)

Yes. I swapped my H bars for the JK mid-risers about a month ago (bought from SJS Cycles). Previously I was using Ergon GP-1L grips that Cycle Surgery fitted when I collected the bike back in August 2012 and they trimmed the grips to 95mm to fit (they’d used a hacksaw but one of the grips was cut skew-whiff). They also fitted Avid SD 7.0 levers, as I’d read on LFGSS that they were compatible with the dual pivot brakes, I’d test-ridden a mate‘s P6R with +8% gearing but didn’t like the feel of the Saccon brake levers (plus I could barely turn the cranks in 6th at 108”). 

I found that I didn’t need to trim the cables, I fitted new brake and gear cables (from Brilliant Bikes), as well as fitting new Brompton brake levers (bought new from eBay a couple of years ago). Originally I’d planned to just fit the new brake levers to the old bars, but couldn’t get the lever clamp over the old bars (digital callipers showed the outside diameter of the old bars was marginally greater than 22mm whereas the inside diameter of the new levers was exactly 22mm), and the new levers fitted easily over the JK bars, so decided to fit the new bars and go from there. Getting the centre bulge through the clamp was a bit fiddly, I thought I could put a coin into the clamp gap and screw the bolt back against it, but the front of the clamp isn’t threaded (ditto the brake levers). So I got my Park chain pliers and pushed the one of the handles into the clamp gap and levered the gap just enough to get the bars centred (I checked and rechecked them with digital callipers using the centre marks). 

When I fitted the new GP-1L grips, they didn’t need trimming. I test rode the bike and found the 600mm width was too wide for me. So I went home and cut the bars down to 560mm (20mm off each end) using Rothenburger rotary Ali pipe cutters, had a bit of surprise as they didn’t cut straight, they were at a slight angle despite me lining them up as best I could and rechecking several times before making the first cut, still the grips cover this up nicely after I’d de-burred the ends (I used masking tape to precisely line up the cutting mark measurements on the bars, so maybe the cutters slipped slightly).

I have to say the bars have transformed the ride. Plus the new levers are much better than the Avids (they required a lot of mechanical advantage despite having adjustable lever blades, the reason I got them).

I’ve done about 50 miles on the new bars and it’s improved my riding position, less upright, more comfortable and ‘purposeful’ if that makes sense. I’ve rotated the bars forward a bit in the clamp as they felt a bit close to me and that has improved the steering feel. Next upgrade will be to fit the extended Ti seatpost and I’ll try the Specialized Bridge 143 saddle, both from eBay (been riding a Brooks B17 Flyer Select since 2013).


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## mitchibob (22 Jun 2021)

I'm thinking, in my case, changing the bars over the years without changing cable length is going to allow the cables to wear out slightly different bits of the paintwork on the main-tube, although, I probably should take a bit out of them on the next proper service I do, now that I've definitely settled on the fantastic JK ergo S bars (didn't go for carbon as wanted GP4 grips). Still might cut them down a little more.


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