# Threaded to A~Bolt



## peloquin (26 Jun 2008)

Hiya
I've been thinking about making a change from my threaded headset to a threadless one. In preparation of this I have purchased new threadless forks and a handlebar with headset&spacers.
My question is based on security:
What advantages, if any, does a A-Bolt headset have to the Threadless when securing the bike?
thanks in advance!
Zep


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## peloquin (26 Jun 2008)

ps Sry if I posted this in the wrong section!


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## Dave Davenport (26 Jun 2008)

Someone may correct me, but I don't think ther's any way you can fit a threadless steerer to a threaded head tube.


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## Yorkshireman (26 Jun 2008)

Dave Davenport said:


> Someone may correct me, but I don't think ther's any way you can fit a threadless steerer to a threaded head tube.









Quill to Ahead converter  I know some think it looks ugly ... but it's not too bad from a distance


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## peloquin (26 Jun 2008)

THANK GOD!
I was actually panicking for a few hours when Dave mentioned the incompatibility between Thread to Un-threaded Head tube ~ i just didn't factor it in my plans!
I've since found a 1 1/8" Alloy Quill to A-Head Stem Converter for under a tenner and ill get it mounted with the rest of the upgrades. Thanks!
Back to my original question about Security: What advantages does a A-Bolt setup have over the old Threaded ones?
Thanks again!


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## Yorkshireman (26 Jun 2008)

zeptepi_13 said:


> THANK GOD!
> I was actually panicking for a few hours when Dave mentioned the incompatibility between Thread to Un-threaded Head tube ~ i just didn't factor it in my plans!
> I've since found a 1 1/8" Alloy Quill to A-Head Stem Converter for under a tenner and ill get it mounted with the rest of the upgrades. Thanks!
> Back to my original question about Security: What advantages does a A-Bolt setup have over the old Threaded ones?
> Thanks again!



I don't think either system has any advantage over the other security wise. They're just different systems.


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## peloquin (26 Jun 2008)

Ok. thanks for clarifying it for me, Yorkshireman!
all the best!


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## Yorkshireman (27 Jun 2008)

zeptepi_13 said:


> Ok. thanks for clarifying it for me, Yorkshireman!
> all the best!



That's OK zeptepi_13 (though I half expected others to join in with ' Quill/Ahead systems are better because ...'). So, what 'route' will you be going down?


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## mickle (27 Jun 2008)

It's very much easier to remove the fork from the bike with a threadless system, all that's required is a 5mm Allen key. A thieving scumbag would need only to undo three bolts and chop the cables before making off with your fork and complete handlebar assembly. With a threaded system the bar assembly can be removed with a single 6mm Allen key and cable snips as above but removal of the fork requires a pair of headset spanners and a lot more time. 

I wouldn't worry about it though.


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## domtyler (27 Jun 2008)

I can't help wondering why, when there are so many better ways to spend your money you would be doing this! It certainly wont give you any perceivable benefit on the bike so what are you hoping to achieve?


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## peloquin (27 Jun 2008)

Yorkshireman said:


> That's OK zeptepi_13 (though I half expected others to join in with ' Quill/Ahead systems are better because ...'). So, what 'route' will you be going down?



Well, where I'm based I've got access to Cannock Chase and  Malvern Hills  [I don't know if you have ridden there, but its awesome]. So I cant wait to get my bike upgrades fitted

At the moment though, I'm riding mostly on concrete which is taking a heavy toll on my Diamondback MO5; just the other day i left a curb at speed and my locknut snapped in two from the impact  So these upgrades I have planned will have come at a good time I think.

How about you? Do you take your bike on any good routes?


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## peloquin (27 Jun 2008)

@ Mickle : Thanks for your reply - I kinda had a feeling this is the case with a aheadset - its ease of removal is higher, but yea i guess i shouldn't worry  as long as I don't leave it in a dodgy area! I'm also thinking about putting a krypt padlock on the handlebars for extra safety.



domtyler said:


> I can't help wondering why, when there are so many better ways to spend your money you would be doing this! It certainly wont give you any perceivable benefit on the bike so what are you hoping to achieve?



Well it all revolves around the frame I have atm - its Aluminium and very lightweight and its lasted me for a good few years so I don't really want to part with it if I can help it.
Also recently I bought a 1 1/8 aheadset, handlbars and a decent fork [threadless] with lockout & preload, off ebay, so it was a real bargain  And to top it all off, i have a close friend who works in a bike store and has offered to mount my bike up for next to nothing!

My main reason I guess is because, having ridden the same spec bike for over 3years, I'm well excited as to how my upgrade will ride like, look like and in a large way its boosted my interest in mountain biking once again other than just mostly using it to and from work.


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## domtyler (27 Jun 2008)

zeptepi_13 said:


> My main reason I guess is because, having ridden the same spec bike for over 3years, I'm well excited as to how my upgrade will ride like, look like and *in a large way its boosted my interest in mountain biking once again* other than just mostly using it to and from work.



Can't really argue with that! 

Hope it all works out nicely for you.


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## mickle (27 Jun 2008)

How old is the bike? The reason I ask is because installing a suspension fork on some frames can raise the front of the bike up enough to negatively affect the handling, the longer the travel=the longer the fork=the greater the effect. An inch on the fork will slacken the head by an inch, and since the manufacturer spent a great deal of time and effort ensuring that you bike handles well it would be a shame to ruin it. A four inch travel fork will slacken the head by four degrees, enough to move the tyre contact point a long way from the steering centre. Measure the distance from the centre of the drop-out to the bottom of the headtube on each fork. Most mountain bike frames built within the last ten years are 'suspension adjusted' but it's worth checking before you inadvertently turn your bike into a chopper.


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## peloquin (27 Jun 2008)

Thanks domtyler  i thought i was gonna get flamed then for a sec **wipes sweat** lol

@ mickle ~ thanks for that information, again its something that ive missed that I should factor into my plans.
I bought my bike around 3 years ago from Halfords. Funnily enough I just found out that, after removing them off the shelves for a time, Halfords have brought the MO5 back into production again and are selling them at most stores - which is handy because I can take mine down and pick their brains over how upgrades will affect the bike. 
I just hope they dont blow me out of the water by saying somthing intelligent like "DONT DO IT!!"


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## peloquin (21 Jul 2008)

Just thought Id post a pic my ride with the adjustment made from Threaded to Threadless aheadset ~ 
and i didnt need a Quill Converter!! I also changed the forks to Suntours and the handlebar to a 
lightweight Amoeba Race Bars 

Anyhoo:


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## Mr Pig (21 Jul 2008)

zeptepi_13 said:


> I can take mine down and pick their brains over how upgrades will affect the bike.



They will have no idea! 'Halfords' and 'brains' are not words often found in the same sentence. I'm sure the vastly knowledgeable people on here will be able to answer all of your questions though :0)


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## peloquin (22 Jul 2008)

Mr Pig said:


> I'm sure the vastly knowledgeable people on here will be able to answer all of your questions though :0)



Oh the peeps here have been great and given me a heap to think about with my bikes future upgrades.
No doubt ill be picking all your collective brains again very sooooon


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## Mr Pig (22 Jul 2008)

zeptepi_13 said:


> No doubt ill be picking all your collective brains again very sooooon



Well not mine. I need to ask them too ;0)


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