# What Size frame do I need? (road bike)



## NorthernSky (2 Oct 2008)

I'm looking to buy my first _new_ road bike in years. I'll probably be buying online because the lack of cycle shops around so wont be able to try before buy. 

my inside leg is 33 - 34 inches, 84 - 86 cm. 
are there any charts online

i've no knowledge of new bikes, mine is old

is a Double or Triple best?
i know all the gear shift takes place with the brakes now. i've noticed a little black 'switch' on some of them. is this quick shift, do i need it?


here is my current bike i bought of a friend for peanuts. its solid but I definitely need an upgrade. out of interest anyone know what year this bike would be? was it a good bike in its day? 







ooh and hello all, my first post!


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## gavintc (2 Oct 2008)

Bike frame sizing as you have identified is more related to leg length than height. Try using this online calculator, it will give you a reasonable feel. Equally, pop into a bike shop and throw your leg over a few bikes. Your leg needs to be extended when you are sitting on the seat and your heel is on the pedal. 

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

The gear option will depend on your fitness. If you are very fit through other sports and are confident at moving into a reasonable standard on a bike, you could consider a standard double (39-53). Most people, need the low gear option provided by either a double compact (34-50) or a triple gear setup. It is very much up to you. 

The little button is found on Campag gears throughout the range and the Shimano Sora gears. It is simply a method of moving the gears. You swing the gear/brake lever to move one way and press the little button to go the other way. The higher end Shimano gears (Tiagra upward) use the inner lever behind the brake lever to move in 2 directions. Good luck in your bike choice.


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## NorthernSky (2 Oct 2008)

that calculator looks excellent, i'll give it a try when i get home 

I think i would get away with a double. is that measurement (39 - 53) the number of teeth?


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## swee'pea99 (2 Oct 2008)

Hi

That's actually not a bad bike you've got there. The giveaway being the wee sticker on the seat post under the saddle - does that say Reyonolds 531? If so, that would indeed make it quite a good bike 'of its day'...and today, for that matter.

If you want a bike of that type - ie, a horizontal crossbar - you'd be looking for something like a 59/60cm frame for your inside leg. More modern bikes, with slopey crossbars, dunno.


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## Chris James (2 Oct 2008)

Looks like a 531 frame, which was a good material. The label will also say something like 'butted tubes and stays' and depending on the exact wording of this you can judge just HOW good!

Having said that, to me the frame looks too big (or you have the saddle too low). It also has a quill stem, which implies it is getting on a bit and the gap between the rear forks may well be too narrow to accept modern wheels. It also has downtube shifters and you will notice a big improvement going to shifters off the the brake levers.

Still, I am sure that it is probably fine as a runabout. What does it measure? If you put a tape from the centre of the bottom bracket (where the cranks attach to the frame) and measure to the top of the seat tube then this is a fairly standard way of measuring.

How have you measured your inside leg? Your trouser measurement, or by sticking a book under your crothc and measuring the distance to the ground in bare feet? I have a 33 in inside leg by the latter method and ride a 57cm seat tube and 57cm top tube length frame.

By the way, since the question is a beginner's one, how are you setting your saddle height? If you sit on the saddle and can place your heel on the pedal with a straight leg then this is an approximation. Another very old school way of getting aprrox frame size with horizontal frames is to straddle the top tube and see how much 'nut room' clearance you get. If you have no room or less than an inch then the frame is definitely too big! If you have a couple of inches or more then may the frame is about the right size but maybe you have the saddle too low? You may well know all this, I don't want to sound patronising, but without seeing you actually on the bike it is difficult to judge how your current steed fits.


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## Maz (2 Oct 2008)

gavintc said:


> The little button is found on Campag gears throughout the range and the Shimano Sora gears. It is simply a method of moving the gears. You swing the gear/brake lever to move one way and press the little button to go the other way.


Be aware that some people are unable to reach the thumb-switch button when riding on the drops. This may or may or may not be relevant/important to you.


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## swee'pea99 (2 Oct 2008)

Unless you're obsessed with youth for its own sake, there's a lot to be said for bikes that are 'getting on a bit'. I can't imagine what disadvantage a quill stem might be thought to entail, and while 'brifters' may offer a marginal advantage, downtube shifters work fine. Certainly you can get a helluva lot more bike for your money by going for something (carefully selected) 20 years old off ebay than by visiting your LBS.


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## Chris James (2 Oct 2008)

swee said:


> In my experience 1 1/8" aheadsets are a major improvement on the old quill type stems / headsets. Much stiffer for a start.
> 
> [quote name='swee'pea99']and while 'brifters' may offer a marginal advantage, downtube shifters work fine. .



But a real faff in comparison to more modern shifters surely? I really miss them when I ride my 20 year old tourer.

Having said that, if the OPs bike fits him (hence my questions) then I would largely agree with you.


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## swee'pea99 (2 Oct 2008)

Not being provocative, but 'stiffer' how? I'm genuinely curious as to how they can differ in any significant way. They hold the handlebars and...um...that's it isn't it?

Have to be honest, I've never had the luxury of brifters, but like I say, I find downtube shifters fine.


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## gavintc (2 Oct 2008)

For one thing, ahead just looks far neater and better over the cantilevered antiquated quill. You can change a stem, flip it over, etc without retaping your bar. The ahead concept has so many more advantages over the quill

Downtube shifters may be fine for some people, but with STI/Ergo you change gear, brake and keep your hands on the bars. The perfect solution for cycling in traffic, handling changing road conditions etc etc. 

IMO, quill and downtube if the retro look is important to you, ahead and STI/Ergo if you need function.


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## Chris James (2 Oct 2008)

swee said:


> When out of the saddle and honking I can get quite noticeable flexing and creaking from my quill stem. The ahead is bombproof and doesn't flex in the slightest. Mind you, the ahead one also has oversize bars which may make a difference too.


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## 4F (2 Oct 2008)

[quote name='swee'pea99']Not being provocative, but 'stiffer' how? I'm genuinely curious as to how they can differ in any significant way. They hold the handlebars and...um...that's it isn't it?

Have to be honest, I've never had the luxury of brifters, but like I say, I find downtube shifters fine.[/quote]

Totally agree. I cannot say I can tell the difference between my 80's 531 and a collegues new fangled stem on stiffness and never had a problem with my downtube shifters


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## 4F (2 Oct 2008)

gavintc said:


> For one thing, ahead just looks far neater and better over the cantilevered antiquated quill. You can change a stem, flip it over, etc without retaping your bar.



Yeah fair point


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## Bigtallfatbloke (2 Oct 2008)

I like the old quill stem look a lot. In fact I want to get one onto my frame build up here:

http://www.cyclechat.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=19930

I am 6'3" inside leg 86cm and have spent ages worrying about getting the correct frame sizes etc.

Yesterday i bought an old 59cm Brian Rourke frame and today i bought a Bianchi in a 61cm
My Touring bike is a 64cm.....

.....I think the 61cm is the right one!


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## swee'pea99 (2 Oct 2008)

Why in the world would you want to 'change a stem, flip it over'? And what 'etc'? 

Now I understand what you mean by 'stiffness', I can only say 'cobblers'. There's no flex in mine whatsoever. 

Finally, looks - beauty is famously in the eye of the beholder, but to my eye there's no question that a classic quill stem looks immeasurably better than a fussy modern one. 

Oh, and what's 'honking'?


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## Angelfishsolo (2 Oct 2008)

A little OT I know but talking about Quill Stems OMG




I'll never look at my bike in the same way again.


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## Angelfishsolo (2 Oct 2008)

OK I know this is a little OT but OMG I thought my bike was tatty




I'll never like at in the same way again


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## Steve Austin (2 Oct 2008)

I always remember buying some new handlebars for my roadbike. I saved for ages to buy them. Lovely and black, with some pretty logos....

By the time i had slid them through the quill stem, i wanted some new ones to replace the scratched scored bars i had just fitted. 
Nothing specifically wrong with quill stems, but I wouldn't want to use any stem that wasn't front loading. 

as for quill vs headset. I need 1 allen key to adjust and grease my headset. takes minutes.
Quill stem needs, 1 allen key, two spanners, and the patience of a saint to get the headset just tight enough without it binding. and then gettting the bars the right height again.


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## Steve Austin (2 Oct 2008)

That carrera is 501 isn't it? piece of mid 80's junk imho


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## NorthernSky (2 Oct 2008)

i measured the frame on my old bike, 63 cm from seat post to center of pedal. 501 double butted frame.

i have the seat so low because any higher I can't touch the ground ha, so it's definitely too big for me I think.

I don't mind the down tube shifters but as mentioned when you need to change quickly in traffic it gets fiddly. there are several roundabouts on my route so it happens a lot.


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## NorthernSky (2 Oct 2008)

Steve Austin said:


> That carrera is 501 isn't it? piece of mid 80's junk imho



mid 80's you say, well thats one of my questions answered
for £15 I wasn't complaining


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## swee'pea99 (3 Oct 2008)

For £15 you shouldn't be. Take the tyres up to 120psi back and 100 front and see how you go. 

Then - I'd suggest - spend a little time learning how to use ebay (checkout the options in 'advanced search', and also learn how to 'save search', eg) then bide your time. Checkout any likely looking candidates using google. You can get real gems for around the ton if you're prepared to be patient. Good luck!


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