# recumbent wheel sizes



## stuee147 (25 Apr 2014)

hi all 
here is something i would appreciate peoples opinion on.
what wheel size do you like and why ???
im going to start my second recumbent trike, the first one has a 26" rear with 20" front, but im considering going for 20" all round has anyone any experience of this and how dose it ride? is there any noticeable difference in hill climbs or distance riding or maybe i could go 26" all round but i think that would be to high and i think being a tadpole trike having 26" front wheels could cause a problem with the wheels rubbing on the frame or me during a tight turn ?
or is there any other sizes anyone has tried ???
the trike i am planing on building will have rear suspension and will be for touring and distance, im also makeing a trailer which im hoping to use the same size wheels as the trike.
i would like to have the same size wheels for two reasons, first i only have to carry 1 size of spare tube and secondly if the wheels are all the same size i only need to get 2 donor bikes of the same size and that will give me the wheels and gearing ect i need rather than needing to mix and match wheels and frame sizes. 
like i say any thoughts would be gratefully received even if you only have experience of one size what do you like or dislike about it.


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## Scoosh (25 Apr 2014)

Hang on a minute  - you've only just finished making the first one  - it hasn't yet been seen by the CC Ecosse 'wide public'  ... and you're already planning the _next_ one ?? !!!

I think some of the ICE trikes come with different wheel sizes, so maybe their owners can give you the info.


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## stuee147 (25 Apr 2014)

Scoosh said:


> Hang on a minute  - you've only just finished making the first one  - it hasn't yet been seen by the CC Ecosse 'wide public'  ... and you're already planning the _next_ one ?? !!!
> 
> I think some of the ICE trikes come with different wheel sizes, so maybe their owners can give you the info.


oh yea the next one is well on its way iv used what iv learnt from the first to make the next even better


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## classic33 (26 Apr 2014)

24 inch wheels all round. Considered for my Brox, however the downside is the cost and wether having had them built they'd actually take the cornering forces.
A number of places tried and its more or less the same story.
They'd also have to be heavier than a standard 24 inch wheel.

Consider if the standard hub would be strong enough.


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## ufkacbln (26 Apr 2014)

The reason for the 26/20 design is to keep the seat low enough to get the feet down safely, as the front boom invaiably is above the front wheel whether it is a long or short wheelbase

The use of 20" (406 is best for tyre choice) lowers the front end and normally means a lower machine all round.

On trikes the same problem does not exist as you are already between and not over the wheels

I ride both my Gekko is 406 all round and the Catrike expedition has a 559 rear

Practically there is no real difference when sorted, however the gearing is more difficult. It is easy to spin out on a 406 rear wheel getteing highe enoug gearing can be an issue

I have a Sclumpf HSD (34t / 85t) on the Gekko for this reason. On my Hurricane (404/406 low rider) I had a 80t chain ring made for me.

Other practicalities are that any luggage is lower, and that mudguards are more difficult to get hold of.
To be quite honest there is little difference in the day to day handling or riding save that the 406 rear wheel flexes considerably less


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## byegad (26 Apr 2014)

A friend who went from an old Trice, (20") front and 26" rear to a QNT 20" all round found there was slightly less traction from the 20" wheel off road, but it was much easier to get a high enough top gear with 20" rear wheel than a low enough bottom gear with 26" rear wheel.


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## stuee147 (26 Apr 2014)

Cunobelin said:


> The reason for the 26/20 design is to keep the seat low enough to get the feet down safely, as the front boom invaiably is above the front wheel whether it is a long or short wheelbase
> 
> The use of 20" (406 is best for tyre choice) lowers the front end and normally means a lower machine all round.
> 
> ...



iv read somewhere that 26" are best for distance as its a larger wheel so travels further per rotation but then iv also heard that 20" are better because they are better for hills with the smaller rotation per turn of the pedals. i think its one of them things it all comes down to preference.
when you say its easy to spin out do you mean on corners ?



byegad said:


> A friend who went from an old Trice, (20") front and 26" rear to a QNT 20" all round found there was slightly less traction from the 20" wheel off road, but it was much easier to get a high enough top gear with 20" rear wheel than a low enough bottom gear with 26" rear wheel.


do you mean its easier to keep a good speed in top gear with the 20" i thought it was better at slow speed with 20" ? or am i just getting confused lol


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## ufkacbln (26 Apr 2014)

By "spin out" I mean very high cadence to get any further speed increase.

As Byegad pointed out, it works both ways.

WIth the same gearing....

The 559 will gain a good speed at the top range with a reasonable cadence, but will be too high at the bottom range making it difficult for hills. The 406 will climb easily, but on the flat will require high cadence to get a fast speed


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## stuee147 (26 Apr 2014)

Cunobelin said:


> By "spin out" I mean very high cadence to get any further speed increase.
> 
> As Byegad pointed out, it works both ways.
> 
> ...



ahhh thankyou i get it now so if im going to be doing a lot of hills im best looking at the 406 (20") but for long flats the best would be 559 (26") ill have to think about that. seeing as im in Scotland there's more hills than flats so maybe the 406 is best.

do you know if there is any problems with carrying panniers and trailer on the 406s ? i think that the smaller wheel would be stronger for carrying weight (i would be looking at around 48 spoke wheels with at least 14mm axles) and i would Imagen having the weight lower to the ground would be an advantage or am i seeing it wrong ??


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## ufkacbln (26 Apr 2014)

This is why my gearing is so "extreme" a 34/85 on the Gekko front and the Rohloff on the back


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## stuee147 (26 Apr 2014)

Cunobelin said:


> This is why my gearing is so "extreme" a 34/85 on the Gekko front and the Rohloff on the back


is it easy to get and fit the larger gearings i assume you would have to replace the derailier made for the larger gears ??


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## ufkacbln (26 Apr 2014)

The Gekko has a Shlumpf HSD, an internal gear that fits at the bottom bracket

Interestingly on a 406 trike!



The Hurricane has a "manual shift" where I simply push the chain tube to reroute the chain and change

Few derailleurs will cope with these extremes,

MY Hurricane chainring was from the now defunct Highpath Engineering


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## stuee147 (26 Apr 2014)

Cunobelin said:


> The Gekko has a Shlumpf HSD, an internal gear that fits at the bottom bracket
> 
> Interestingly on a 406 trike!
> 
> ...




wow thats brilliant i have never seen anything like that i love the way no derailleurs cable runs ect and not worrying about where the chain will run to as it never changes angels. im going to look into that its just so neat. 

is there a way of working out what gearing ratio is best or is it more trial and error ??

sorry for all the questions, but if i dont ask ill never know 

stuee


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## fixedfixer (26 Apr 2014)

My vote is for 26 rear and 20 front. Reasons, 26 rear will give a bit more clearance for rear mech (not issue if you are going internal hub gears) 20 front willbe strong and keep front end low.
Plus if you use the rear frame of an mtb full sus as a doner it will have 26 / disc and be able to take low gears and standard panniers / rack.


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## fixedfixer (26 Apr 2014)

for gear inches / range google sheldon brown gear calculator


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## stuee147 (26 Apr 2014)

fixedfixer said:


> My vote is for 26 rear and 20 front. Reasons, 26 rear will give a bit more clearance for rear mech (not issue if you are going internal hub gears) 20 front willbe strong and keep front end low.
> Plus if you use the rear frame of an mtb full sus as a doner it will have 26 / disc and be able to take low gears and standard panniers / rack.



i never thought about racks but yea i suppose a normal rack for a 26" wheel would look strange on a 20" wheel. would that mean you need special panniers for a 20" or are they all standard ??
with the suspension i was thinking the same thing get a MTB and use the back end, i looked into doing the same but with a 20" wheel and all the ones i can find are more kids bikes so the suspension would need to be upgraded and i didnt like the look of the frames dont think they would last long holding me and a set of panniers and a trailer, so i was thinking i would have to go the rout of making a whole new back end up rather than using the bikes.

iv just found the calculator and saved it ill have a play about with it see what i can work out. i do sort of understand gearing i know the physics and the maths behind it it just takes me ages to work out with lots of paper and pencils lol


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## ufkacbln (26 Apr 2014)

stuee147 said:


> wow thats brilliant i have never seen anything like that i love the way no derailleurs cable runs ect and not worrying about where the chain will run to as it never changes angels. im going to look into that its just so neat.
> 
> is there a way of working out what gearing ratio is best or is it more trial and error ??
> 
> ...


Two opinions!

Schlumpf do three drives:

High speed drive - 2.5 x increase

Speed drive - 1.65 x increase

Mountain drive - 2.5 x reduction

Then it is up to you.

Aesthetically or practically.

An HSD with a 34 t chainring will give exactly the same range as an MD with an 85 t chainring

The trick is to work out your riding so that the 1:1 ratio is used for the majority of the time.... or a small / large chainring suits the machine you are using


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## fixedfixer (26 Apr 2014)

[QUOTE 3048449, member: 30090"]If you have the X-Seam then 700cc (ERTO 622).

A vast array of wheels and spares to choose from.[/QUOTE]

True. But I think on a trike 26/20 looks better and stuee is more likely to find a secondhand 26 for a doner bike to hack up. Just my take on it.


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## roadrash (26 Apr 2014)

one of these racks for 20" wheels
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-P..._bikeparts_SR&hash=item461eb6fdfd#ht_48wt_958
you can get panniers to suit..... the bag on my last photo has panniers
here
http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/restoration-twenty.148038/


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## stuee147 (26 Apr 2014)

fixedfixer said:


> True. But I think on a trike 26/20 looks better and stuee is more likely to find a secondhand 26 for a doner bike to hack up. Just my take on it.



i must admit i think the 26/20s do look good but the 20s all round look quite good to iv seen a couple of 26 all round and they just dont look right at leats i dont think they do lol


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## classic33 (1 May 2014)

Cunobelin said:


> The Gekko has a Shlumpf HSD, an internal gear that fits at the bottom bracket
> 
> Interestingly on a 406 trike!
> 
> ...



Highpaths Engineering site is showing as active. Last updated only last month.


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## ufkacbln (2 May 2014)

classic33 said:


> Highpaths Engineering site is showing as active. Last updated only last month.



Sorry - I didn't make myself clear. They no longer work full time or make chain rings



> It's with the greatest regret that Chris has been forced into semi-retirement and he asks customers to allow him more time to fulfill their orders. He's stopped making EGGring chainrings but still produces small batches of his Pulse pedalling aids and continues to provide his popular crank-shortening and crank-repair service.


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## brand (6 May 2014)

Speaking from experience. I found it impossible with rim brakes to get them to grip evenly. If you don't and you slam the brakes on you will roll.
I am not sure but did someone suggest hub gears? Seems excellent idea to me. You could always change the set up for a tour. 
I found that mine(cannot remember the name) was to low in foggy weather as I couldn't see the finger posts, they tend to be in the hedge anyway so even harder when you are low down. Once cycled 32 miles home from the pub, it wss only 12 miles away.
Also didn't take into account that the water in the ford would be considerably higher in the winter. All worth considering. 
I may buy another but it will have to be higher up, lighter, disc brakes and hub gears sound great choosing Alfine 11 or Rohloff would be the problem. Oh and where to store it.


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