# Granny Gears



## Black Lightning (8 Mar 2013)

is it worth putting a granny gear on a road bike?
Someone suggested it but being new to all this im not sure what good or not worth while


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## themosquitoking (8 Mar 2013)

Good question. I'm about to buy a bike without one and i'm a little bit scared about it, not really the best at hills as strava will testify.


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## deptfordmarmoset (8 Mar 2013)

Apart from a very small increase in weight, there's nothing wrong with a triple on a road bike. You get the small graduations for the cadence plus the wide range of gears.


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## HLaB (8 Mar 2013)

Personally I think you can live with two rings and increase the cassette range to get lower gears as thats more effective. But if you can justify the expense of putting a granny ring on (new shifters and bb) and you think it'll make it better for you its worthwhile.


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## themosquitoking (8 Mar 2013)

HLaB said:


> Personally I think you can live with two rings and increase the cassette range to get lower gears as thats more effective. But if you can justify the expense of putting a granny ring on (new shifters and bb) and you think it'll make it better for you its worthwhile.


TBH i hadn't given buying new shifters a thought.


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## Davidc (8 Mar 2013)

Nothing like a 22 front + 32 rear for getting up the steep ones.


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## Rob500 (8 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> is it worth putting a granny gear on a road bike?


 
BL - Only you know what your ability on the steep stuff is and whether a granny gear would be good for you.

I do have one, 30 front - 25 back and make use of it. I read on here all the time that you could climb a vertical wall with such and such a gear etc. But it's all relative tbh. If I was fitter, perhaps I could but I can't. I need the granny gear.


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## MrJamie (9 Mar 2013)

My hybrids 28-38-48 and 11-32 cassette, very very few places I use the 28 32 on the road as its ridiculously low but I like having it. I also wondered if there was much of a benefit from having a smaller range of gears, with smaller steps between?


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## Nigelnaturist (9 Mar 2013)

It's all relative really, because a 30x26 (30.3")is much the same as 34x28 (31.94"), I run a 7sp triple with a range from 28.5" 26x24 to 114.8" (48x11), I did have it at 26x34 at one point but found it too low after a while for the riding I do. I ran it at 26x28 and 26x26 for a while but I spun out at about 27mph, and I rarely used the 26x26 combination so I shifted the gearing, even now I dont use the 26x24 much and that gives the same gearing as a 34x32


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## Nigelnaturist (9 Mar 2013)

MrJamie said:


> My hybrids 28-38-48 and 11-32 cassette, very very few places I use the 28 32 on the road as its ridiculously low but I like having it. I also wondered if there was much of a benefit from having a *smaller range of gears*, with smaller steps between?


I think there is, I would love a 9 or 10 sp triple, with the steps much close but the same range I have now, because I have found sometimes going down a gear its too low and vica-versa, its just to much in a given situation, but that one between would have been ideal.





in inches


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## slowmotion (9 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> is it worth putting a granny gear on a road bike?
> Someone suggested it but being new to all this im not sure what good or not worth while


 If you are old and useless on hills, get some really low gears. How do I know?.....I'm both. I have 50:39:28 on the front and 12 to 28 on the back. I have very little pride, but walking the bike up hills is a lot more miserable than spinning like a hamster at about 5mph.


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## Rob3rt (9 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> is it worth putting a granny gear on a road bike?
> Someone suggested it but being new to all this im not sure what good or not worth while


 
Do you struggle an inordinate amount on the hills?

Yes = Get easier gears.
No = Get on with it.


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## Boon 51 (9 Mar 2013)

Close to my heart this thread...

Do I want to go fast on the straights.. I cant because there is none where I live?
Do I want to go down hills fast... NO
Do I want to put my average speed up Yes remembering I live on a mountain.
Do I want to climb better on the hill with lower gearing Yes..
So in an ideal world I would change my road bike gearing from the standard 50/36 front and 11/28 rear to 46/30 front and 11/36 rear..


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## Kies (9 Mar 2013)

The hybrid has a triple,but i don't remember the last time i used the granny cog. Roadie has a double .... More than enough for any hills i have encountered.
If that changes as i get older and slower,no biggy about adding a granny ring.


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## mattobrien (9 Mar 2013)

I don't get out of the big ring on my compact roadie, but then I do live in Suffolk and we don't have anything remotely hilly round here. If I were tackling mountain terrains day in day out, I may have a different view about gearing. 

N+1 (on order) has a standard double 53-39 and 11-26, so I might actually have to start thinking about making use of both chain rings.


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## BSRU (9 Mar 2013)

I have a triple on my road bike which was very useful in the beginning, but as I have become fitter it has become less so, probably in reality I could manage with a standard double.


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## Rob3rt (9 Mar 2013)

mattobrien said:


> I don't get out of the big ring on my compact roadie, but then I do live in Suffolk and we don't have anything remotely hilly round here. If I were tackling mountain terrains day in day out, I may have a different view about gearing.
> 
> *N+1 (on order) has a standard double 53-39 and 11-26, so I might actually have to start thinking about making use of both chain rings.*


 
I use the inner ring on my double a lot. With my old compact, I didn't ever use the small ring except in the hills, this resulted in the big ring wearing out with the inner ring looking almost brand new. Now I have a double, I would say I spend my time probably 50:50 between both rings. The 39t is just a lot more useable.


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## Andrew_Culture (9 Mar 2013)

'Ring' *snigger*


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## mattobrien (9 Mar 2013)

Rob3rt said:


> I use the inner ring on my double a lot. With my old compact, I didn't ever use the small ring except in the hills, this resulted in the big ring wearing out with the inner ring looking almost brand new. Now I have a double, I would say I spend my time probably 50:50 between both rings.


That's kind of what I am hoping for - with the status quo as it is the inner ring is a bit neglected. Seems a bit pointless to have one and not use it, hence the move to a double. Not sure I will be spinning out on a 53-11, but always nice to have the option if I do ever find a worthy hill...

Also hoping that not having quite such a low gear for climbing (worst gradients are currently tackled with 50-27) I will be forced to make much better use of the inner ring and possibly increase fitness.

I will need to slightly reprogram my brain to remember that there are gears available from the left shifter / remember to actually use it.


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## mattobrien (9 Mar 2013)

Andrew_Culture said:


> 'Ring' *snigger*


A bit early for innuendo, unless you have been up all night watching Terry Thomas films.


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## Biker Joe (9 Mar 2013)

I've got 53/38 on the front and 12/27, 9 speed cassette.
I can climb most hills around here with that. These days, anything over 6% I get off and walk a bit( Age is catching up with me).Thankfully there's not much around here that steep.
I did consider changing to a triple but the cost was too much._ IF_ I had the money, I would get a bike with a compact triple. That would suit me but I can't see that happening. ( A bit of self pity there)


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## Venod (9 Mar 2013)

When I was younger 52/42 front & 13/24, 6 speed rear on the road bike would get me anywhere, the steep bits were out of the saddle knee busters, now a lot older & a lot of mountain biking under my belt I have become a twiddler, the road bike know has 50/34 front 13/30, 10 speed rear, the low gears are needed at the end of a long day when I hit the steep bits.

Nowadays I find the low gear a comfort to have.


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## Chris S (9 Mar 2013)

The granny gear on my MTB was useless. By the time I realized that I needed to use it I was going too slow to change down.


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## Black Lightning (9 Mar 2013)

thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.


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## The Brewer (9 Mar 2013)

Its triple or walk on some of the hills around here, I hate walking


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## avalon (9 Mar 2013)

So now it's as clear as mud to you.
If you don't know any other cyclists and don't have a decent bike shop near by, maybe someone from here who doesn't live too far away could help you out with the modifications. I'd be happy to but I'm probably not very close.


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## Rickshaw Phil (9 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.


It sounds very technical but it's not that bad really. The numbers quoted refer to the number of teeth on the gears.

The way that gears work is that if you select a small chainring on the front and a large cog on the rear you get an easy gear and vice versa; large front to small rear = a harder gear.

The cassettes are available with a choice of cog sizes so, for example, if you changed from one which ranges from 11 to 25 teeth at the rear to one that is 11 to 28 teeth you'll get an easier gear for climbing. This is a cheap option as usually only the cassette and chain need changing.

Do note though that on a road bike, 28 or 30 teeth is often the biggest you can go on the rear without changing the derailleur mechanism too. (The members on here can advise if you let us know what derailleur you have).

I hope this makes sense.


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## Nigelnaturist (9 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.


Basically the less teeth on the front and more on the back the lower the gear, and likewise the more teeth on the front and less on the back the higher the gear, for instance a 30th front and 28th rear is lower than a 30th front and 26th rear, and a 50th front and rear 11 is higher than 50th front and 13th rear. The number of combinations is bewildering really.


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## Black Lightning (9 Mar 2013)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> It sounds very technical but it's not that bad really. The numbers quoted refer to the number of teeth on the gears.
> 
> The way that gears work is that if you select a small chainring on the front and a large cog on the rear you get an easy gear and vice versa; large front to small rear = a harder gear.
> 
> ...


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## Black Lightning (9 Mar 2013)

Ricshaw Phil,

thanks for the info, below is all I can find relating to the gears. if i was to change the rear cassette to make it better for hills what are the options?

*Front Mech:* Shimano FD-A050
*Gear Shifters:* Shimano ST-2300 
*Rear Mech:* Shimano RD-2300 
*Chainset:* Shimano FCA050 52/39 / Prowheel
*Cassette:* 12-26T

Thanks for all your comments


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## cyberknight (9 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> thanks for all your comments however as a beginner i dont have a clue when you start talking 53/38 on the front and 12/27 rear. it means nothing to me. if i understand correctly getting a granny ring means changing the gear shifters so is more expensive. now other mention changing gears on the rear which i am having trouble understanding. how to i know what i have got and what i need, all i do know is that i have 8 gear rings on the rear.


You have a carrera tdf ?If i remember rightly it comes with larger front gears with 52 teeth big ring and 38 tooth small ring.A compact double has 50 and 34 making the gears easier to turn.The back gears of your bike should be a 12-26 or 12 being your fastest and 26 being the easiest by the number of teeth they have,
If you are struggling on hills a lot maybe ask your local bike shop about the possibility of changing the front chain rings from 52/38 to a more friendly compact double as it should not be to expensive to do.After that you could change the rear gears to one with an easier lower gear , specs for your rear derailiier says it goes up to a 26 which you should have but normally you can got a few teeth more.After that you would need a replacement rear derailiier with a longer cage (the little wheels are further apart) so you could use a set of gears with a wider spread.
Do not worry about top end on the flat gears, i do not run out of gears for speed with a compact (50/34) and a 12-26 rear gears till over 40 mph down hill and on the flat i can commute on the flat fully laden at 21 mph mid block on the same rear cassette as you should have.


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## Rob500 (9 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> *Chainset:* Shimano FCA050 52/39
> *Cassette:* 12-26T


BL you've got a 'standard' double chainring setup. How much of a nightmare is your lowest gear 39/26 for you?
As cyberknight says, perhaps you could try a compact double 50/34 chainring setup instead of going for the 3 ring granny route.
Do you know anybody who rides a compact that let you give it a go up some hills?


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## Black Lightning (9 Mar 2013)

thanks this really helped and I have looked at suitable compact double, only question is about a square taper. please see spec below, im not sure if my bike has a square taper?
*Shimano 2300 FC2350 square taper double chainset 8speed 50 34T 170 mm*


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## Black Lightning (9 Mar 2013)

Sadly I dont know anyone around here, is a bit of a lone mission at the moment


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## oldfatfool (9 Mar 2013)

Yes you have a square taper interface, well according to Halfords you do  http://answers.halfords.com/answers/4028/product/266309/questions.htm?expandquestion=672306


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## Boon 51 (10 Mar 2013)

Sorry to but in..
On my road bike I have a 50/36 front.. so would I be able to drop to a 34 on the front?


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## Rickshaw Phil (10 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> Ricshaw Phil,
> 
> thanks for the info, below is all I can find relating to the gears. if i was to change the rear cassette to make it better for hills what are the options?
> 
> ...


Here is the instruction sheet for your rear mech. Unfortunately it shows that for this derailleur 26 teeth is the recommended maximum on the cassette.

However, looking at the 2300 rear derailleur on Evans Cycles website, in their Q&A section they claim it will cope with up to 30 teeth. Can anyone else on here advise whether they have this right?

If this is correct, fitting the compact double chainset and a cassette that has either a 28 or 30 tooth 1st gear would lower the bottom end gearing quite substantially.


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## boydj (10 Mar 2013)

Boon 51 said:


> Sorry to but in..
> On my road bike I have a 50/36 front.. so would I be able to drop to a 34 on the front?


That's an unusual combo, but it should be a simple change from 36 to 34. You'll need to check the BCD (probably 110, but could be 130) to make sure a replacement ring will fit - your lbs should be able to help there. Note that a cassette change may be cheaper and more effective, or could give you additional help if you are struggling on hills.


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## Boon 51 (10 Mar 2013)

boydj said:


> That's an unusual combo, but it should be a simple change from 36 to 34. You'll need to check the BCD (probably 110, but could be 130) to make sure a replacement ring will fit - your lbs should be able to help there. Note that a cassette change may be cheaper and more effective, or could give you additional help if you are struggling on hills.


 
I'm having a 11-36 cassette put on with new chain etc... but I just wondered for future use.


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## cyberknight (10 Mar 2013)

I have often considered changing my boardman from a 50/34 to a 50/36.


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## kerndog (10 Mar 2013)

I got my bike recently and live in a hilly part of the world so switched my cassette from an 11/25 to 12/28 (I think lol) and it made getting up those steep long buggers easier, I have. Compact double up front


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## Boon 51 (11 Mar 2013)

cyberknight said:


> I have often considered changing my boardman from a 50/34 to a 50/36.


 
Thats funny I want to do the reverse.. 50/36 to a 50/34.


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## Boon 51 (11 Mar 2013)

kerndog said:


> I got my bike recently and live in a hilly part of the world so switched my cassette from an 11/25 to 12/28 (I think lol) and it made getting up those steep long buggers easier, I have. Compact double up front


 
To coin a phrase thats the road I'm going down..


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## Cubist (11 Mar 2013)

The old Boardman pro had a 50/34 over a 11-32 with a mountain bike rear mech (sramx9). Hills were easy, and it flew down them, but there were huge holes in the ratios for smooth operating. OP I'd look to get a compact double, 50/34 and an 11-30 . Your mech should handle it ok, but be prepared to do a lot of hunting for the right gear on the flat or gentle uphills. You'll also need to learn to double shift when changing chainrings.


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## Cubist (11 Mar 2013)

Black Lightning said:


> Sadly I dont know anyone around here, is a bit of a lone mission at the moment


Where's round here?


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