# what are good suspension forks



## dave72 (8 Apr 2012)

hi i was considering putting suspension forks on my mountain bike but not sure what are good makes. i'm going on tracks (bridleways) and some road work so not major off road over rocks.
cheers dave


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## smokeysmoo (8 Apr 2012)

I wouldn't bother for what you say you'll be doing. They'll just add a load of weight for no appreciable benefit IMO.


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## RecordAceFromNew (8 Apr 2012)

For the applications you mentioned suspension forks would not be as cost effective and efficient as fairly wide tyres run at lowish pressure. If the frame and existing forks have the clearance, muddy condition is avoided a pair of Schwalbe Big Apple, which come in different widths, could be a good compromise for maximum comfort (from pneumatic suspension), limited additional weight and little expense. Assuming you have rigid forks at the moment what tyres are you running and at what pressure?


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## dave72 (8 Apr 2012)

i've only got the bike back after lending it to a so called friend minus the wheels ,so it striped down at the mo and i just resprayed it. i just wanted to upgrade to suspension forks as i'm now 40 so my wrists don't get such a beating.do they still make farmer john tyres ?
cheers dave


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## Ticktockmy (8 Apr 2012)

from my own experiences, what smokeysmoo says is true, I have suspension on one bike, and rigid on the other, for most Bridleways and tracks there is not much difference, as the rigid forks cope well with with normal riding, but when I forgetting I am a old git, and riding around the surrey hills thinking I am a teen again, and scaring myself shitless, then that when the suspension comes in handy. I think you will need to look at your Budget, but the Roxshot Recon silver seem to be able to stand up to most conditions you will want.
Hope that helps


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## Peteaud (8 Apr 2012)

Stay clear of cheapo ones, they are normally heavy and not worth it.

Rockshoks reba are great but expensive, if you can get some 2nd hand from ebay then great.


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## spence (8 Apr 2012)

To your basic question, RockShox or Fox is the answer. Although other brands are available these two seem to dominate the market. While market domination doesn’t always mean the best option, having experience of both and many friends running a variety of each they do seem to do exactly what’s on the label. Currently running Pikes, Revs and an old pair of TALAS; all air. I know some prefer springs and go on about linear progression and stuff, that may well be true but I’m good with air as I find it much easier to set up per weight etc. Dabbled in other brands but they don’t stand up in their overall application and ownership experience very well.

As mentioned set your budget and take your pick, for the road use thing, consider a lockout.

Can sympathise with Ticktockmy re being an old git and the Surrey Hills, although they’re not what they once were (nor me).


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## dave72 (8 Apr 2012)

they will have to be v brake fitment.i seen some suntour forks on ebay, i seen them fitted to quiet alot of mid range bikes so am i right to think there are good quality.
cheers dave


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## rusty bearing (8 Apr 2012)

Any good?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370603230238&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT


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## RecordAceFromNew (9 Apr 2012)

dave72 said:


> they will have to be v brake fitment.i seen some suntour forks on ebay, i seen them fitted to quiet alot of mid range bikes so am i right to think there are good quality.
> cheers dave


 
IME some Suntour forks are pretty awful, but some are ok, so I wouldn't call the brand a safe choice in terms of performance, but most are relatively inexpensive.



dave72 said:


> i've only got the bike back after lending it to a so called friend minus the wheels ,so it striped down at the mo and i just resprayed it. i just wanted to upgrade to suspension forks as i'm now 40 so my wrists don't get such a beating.do they still make farmer john tyres ?
> cheers dave


 
I think the Farmer John family of tyres are no longer made by Tioga.

In case you are unaware, the bike is going to determine which forks are compatible and which are not. The frame/headset in question is going to determine what steerer diameter, length, axle to crown distance/travel e.g. would suit. For example there is no point picking Fox, despite it being a manufacturer consistently pushing out great models, if your frame needs forks with 1" steerer, or the existing A2C is 400mm. The original forks' spec would be a good guide of what you can have.

Buying secondhand does add a spectrum of challenges. Dampers/seals/valves/oil/spring/elastomer etc. might need to be changed/serviced, which depending on the forks could range from doable, challenging to impossible.

What I know, regarding wrists/hands taking a beating, is Ergon grips are great antidotes. I have no idea what frame/forks you have, but you might be better off sticking with what you have got and get appropriate tyres.


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## dave72 (9 Apr 2012)

i have no idea what the frame was all i know it's alloy with steel forks





the steerer is 195mm long and is 1in 1/8th.
cheers dave


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## RecordAceFromNew (10 Apr 2012)

dave72 said:


> i have no idea what the frame was all i know it's alloy with steel forks
> 
> the steerer is 195mm long and is 1in 1/8th.
> cheers dave


 
What is the distance between the centre of the front wheel axle (or where it should be) and where the crown race (black ring in photo below) sits on the forks?

Although rare, 1 1/8" threaded forks do exist. Is there any threading near the top of your existing steerer? Are you planning to reuse the existing headset?


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## dave72 (10 Apr 2012)

the distance is 410mm from the alxe to crown race . yes i was going to use the headset again it's a ahead headset not threaded


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## RecordAceFromNew (10 Apr 2012)

For A2C of 410mm, we are talking about 60mm travel forks to maintain bike geometry, and 80mm travel will probably be the limit to not noticeably affecting handling.

If you look at the database here, you will see that 80mm forks typically have A2C of ~455mm or so, taking 25% sag of 80mm off and we are talking about 435mm, which is 25mm more than the original. This will give rise, all else being equal, an increase in trail of ~8mm by slackening head tube angle by over 1 degree, making the steering more sluggish.

I would say you definitely don't want 120mm forks, and not even 100mm.

It seems the limits are 1-1/8" aheadset (which is great since it is most common), with brake bosses, up to 80mm travel, minimum steerer length of 195mm - assuming you don't want or can't have shorter than existing - but would you like it longer to reduce weight on wrists? If so how high has the spacer stack been below the stem, if any?

And how much do you want to spend?


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## dave72 (12 Apr 2012)

basically you saying i need 60-80mm suspension travel max so not to upset the handling.but if i have a longer steerer with spacers below the handle bar stem it would make it easier on my wrists.
the 195mm on my existing forks steerer is 3-4mm below the top of the frame which was recomended by my LBS to allow compression of the ahead headset. price wise if i can get myself a bargin i will this means second hand forks as i just brought alot of campagnolo stuff for my road bike.and this is the only thing i really need for the mountain bike as it going to get built up with the exiting gear.
cheers dave


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## RecordAceFromNew (12 Apr 2012)

dave72 said:


> basically you saying i need 60-80mm suspension travel max so not to upset the handling.but if i have a longer steerer with spacers below the handle bar stem it would make it easier on my wrists.
> the 195mm on my existing forks steerer is 3-4mm below the top of the frame which was recomended by my LBS to allow compression of the ahead headset. price wise if i can get myself a bargin i will this means second hand forks as i just brought alot of campagnolo stuff for my road bike.and this is the only thing i really need for the mountain bike as it going to get built up with the exiting gear.
> cheers dave


 
Yes the typical manufacturer recommendation for alloy steerer is no more than 4 or 5 cm of spacers below the stem, and as you mentioned around 3mm from cap to the top of the steerer to allow requisite compression of the headset before tightening the stem.


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