# Short stem + wide bars, anyone tried it?



## GrumpyGregry (7 Feb 2012)

Read a couple of articles over the weekend from stateside sources extolling the virtues of wide(r) bars and 50 - 60 mm stems over the normal narrow and long combination beloved of XC riders.

Given I'm not racing, the mtb is strictly a general purpose off-road tool ridden strictly for laughs these days, I'm going to give it a go.

Anyone been down the wide(r) bars shorter stem path? If so, or if not, what width, style (flats or risers) and length of stem are you running?

I've currently got a 110mm stem and 640mm Ritchey risers and am going to try slightly wider 710mm On-one fleegle's and a 60mm stem. (may have to join the 21st C and lose the bar ends I'm told.)


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## mickle (7 Feb 2012)

Yeahbut to be really cutting edge you'd need a 45 degree backsweep too!


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## Cubist (7 Feb 2012)

I tried a 55mm riser stem (about 30 degrees) and a pair of 710mm mid rise. On the XC bike it made things a lot sharper in the turns. You can throw the bike around a bit more in really twisty stuff, but it got a bit twitchy on occasions. The extra rise and more upright position made it a bit twitchy on long fast smooth singletrack, and I had to learn new pedalling technique on climbs to keep the front down. The pay off has been in the leverage available on technical tight steep turns, and the slacker feel on descents. 

I found a really short stem to be a bind on the tighter Cube geometry, so opted for a 16 degree 70mm in the end. The extra width of the bars is a given, loads of leverage and control on technical stuff. 

Your setup sounds pretty similar, depending on the headtube angle. If it's as sharp as the Cube's 70 odd degrees, then go for a slightly longer stem.


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## lukesdad (7 Feb 2012)

Only really used this on a downhill setup. As he said () ^^^ steering is a lot faster. The main downside I found and I think this would apply to any bike, is holding a line over the nadgery stuff especially at speed. As usual with most things like this its a bit of a trade off.


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## GrumpyGregry (8 Feb 2012)

lukesdad said:


> Only really used this on a downhill setup. As he said () ^^^ steering is a lot faster. The main downside I found and I think this would apply to any bike, is holding a line over the nadgery stuff especially at speed. As usual with most things like this its a bit of a trade off.


 
A trade off. LOL. I'm promises myself when I bought this bike I'd leave it standard. Fat chance. I think I like fettling and fiddling as much as I like riding.


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## MattHB (8 Feb 2012)

I just fitted a 60mm stem to the felt as it was to loooooong a stretch with the 110 and massive frame than I needed for leg room.

Hopefully that'll make things much more comfy


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## GrumpyGregry (8 Feb 2012)

1714909 said:


> 110 to 60 is a fair jump. Are you sure you don't want an 80 or 90 first as an interim step? I'm sure that MacB must have a few spares he could let you have at a fair price.


 
60mm is a compromise based on what I read and I may end up shorter if I like the feel and can adapt my style to it. 60mm also has the unbeatable virtue of being "Cheap in gold CNC at On-One" which is a hallmark of my experimentation.

and I said I wouldn't buy anything else from MacB until I finished building up the pompetamine frame he sold me.


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## Cubist (8 Feb 2012)

GregCollins said:


> 60mm is a compromise based on what I read and I may end up shorter if I like the feel and can adapt my style to it. 60mm also has the unbeatable virtue of being "Cheap in gold CNC at On-One" which is a hallmark of my experimentation.
> 
> and I said I wouldn't buy anything else from MacB until I finished building up the pompetamine frame he sold me.


Say it like it is, bugger good sense..... what'll it look like in the car park.... a man after my own heart!


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## GrumpyGregry (8 Feb 2012)

Cubist said:


> Say it like it is, bugger good sense..... what'll it look like in the car park.... a man after my own heart!


If it works and doesn't break too soon, I'm happy.

If it works and doesn't break too soon, and is shiny and anodised, I'm delighted.


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## Cubist (8 Feb 2012)

mmmmmmmmmmmmm, anodised..........................


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## GrumpyGregry (8 Feb 2012)

Cubist said:


> mmmmmmmmmmmmm, anodised..........................


I draw the line at purple.


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## Cubist (8 Feb 2012)

Goes well with green.....


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## GrumpyGregry (8 Feb 2012)

In paint on my brompton, maybe. Anodised on my mtb, I think not.


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## Cubist (8 Feb 2012)




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## dalewheeler (10 Feb 2012)

Can't comment on the "short stem" bit, but i put these on my street bike a while ago. Bit awkward when taking it on the train, and not as sturdy as before.
The MkII version will be slightly narrower and made of something less flexible...


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## Cubist (11 Feb 2012)

Some geometries were designed for wide bars and short stems


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## GrumpyGregry (11 Feb 2012)

Only downside thus far, with 6 degree riser stem, is the rear trigger shifter will foul the top tube in 'offs' ...

... best I don't fall off then.


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## Cubist (11 Feb 2012)

GregCollins said:


> Only downside thus far, with 6 degree riser stem, is the rear trigger shifter will foul the top tube in 'offs' ...
> 
> ... best I don't fall off then.


Are you at the top of the stack?


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## lukesdad (11 Feb 2012)

dalewheeler said:


> Can't comment on the "short stem" bit, but i put these on my street bike a while ago. Bit awkward when taking it on the train, and not as sturdy as before.
> The MkII version will be slightly narrower and made of something less flexible...


 I used to have drag bars like that on my GS750


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## GrumpyGregry (11 Feb 2012)

Cubist said:


> Are you at the top of the stack?


one 5mm spacer above at present. Not sure that makes enough difference tbh but iirc it's a common problem on large frames as this isn't the first time I've encountered it.


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## screenman (11 Feb 2012)

Is fit less important than fashion?


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## GrumpyGregry (11 Feb 2012)

screenman said:


> Is fit less important than fashion?


 
But that's missing the point... If I go with some rigid interpretation of fit, not that I really believe 5mm one way or the other will make a difference to me or any other leisure rider, it will stay where it is. Then one day I'll trash my top tube.

imo, on mtb and to lesser extent on flat bar fast road bikes, stem height is as much about your style of riding as it is fit btw.

Simplest solution for me is probably to fit a rear X0 gripshift shifter and run both gripshifts over the brakes (flying in the face of fashion)


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## mickeydrippin60 (15 Feb 2012)

gripshift isnt flying in the face of fashion its p!$$*@ in to the wind i have a 20inch kona dawg with 50mm stem wide bars and spds i have the same problem but for me its my brake levers that hit the cross bar all ive done was buy spare levers and some stickers just in case lol


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## GrumpyGregry (15 Feb 2012)

I'll be fitting a top tube protector (thank you Bagaboo/Urban Hunter) and dropping the stem on the steerer and using the age old wisdom of levers/shifters clamps only being done up hand tight while holding the short end of the allen key so hopefully if it all goes wrong they will move rather than break or dent something.


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## GrumpyGregry (18 Feb 2012)

First proper 'go' off road with the new set up. Wider bars make it much easier to keep her straight when climbing, and feel way more comfortable and open chested. Didn't clip any trunks on the singletrack we rode but then I don't carve at high-speed anyway

Short stem certainly needed an adaptation to climbing style and I think after the first hour I was there.

Love it thus far.

Next step is to drop it down the stack a bit and see how that goes. Will probably stick it down 25mm as a starter. Bagaboo frame protector on the top tube is doing bash duties.


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