# Project strip down and rebuild



## sotal (4 Jul 2020)

I think I've found all the bits (or nearly all) that I need to rebuild my road bike.

I'll post photos as I go and questions when something doesn't quite work.

I asked a bit about this before starting and decided to go for it.

The bike is a Trek 1000SL. I bought it second hand and have had it for years. It has got to the point where lots of bits were getting worn out but the frame is in perfect condition and the frame and fork seem to be relatively light (carbon fork). The bike also fits me really well, so I decided that, even though it may not make the best economic sense, I would buy new components for it and I would change to a double, which I understand is a hotly debated topic but I've never had a double and if I do but a new bike in the future it looks like it is likely to come with a double so I might as well see what it is like! 

I've managed to source the following...

A pair of Shimano tiagra 4700 shifter in great condition (second hand)

A tiagra 50/34 crankset which has only done 50 miles before being taken off, along with a 4700 front mech and 4700 long rear mech which had also only done 50 miles.

A new KMC chain.

A new 11/34T 4700 cassette.

A new ultegra BB.

A pair of new 4700 brake calipers.

A set of new optislick gear cables (inners and outers).

A set of new brake cables (inners and outers).

A set of new bar tape, changing from white to black as the white always looks grubby.

Is there anything else you can think that I might have forgotten?

I have all the tools to disassemble my bike. I have the hollowtech 2 tool. I have a variety of greases.

My first challenge to look at when it arrives is that the front derailleur comes with a the slightly smaller clamp. Mine needs the 34.9mm and this comes with a 31 point something mm clamp.

Can I buy a new clamp the correct size on its own? Or can I use the existing clamp and just bolt that to the new mech?

I'll post pictures as I go below!


----------



## Cycleops (5 Jul 2020)

The clamp is integral to the derailleur but you might find you can make it work.
Good luck with the project.


----------



## Ajax Bay (5 Jul 2020)

No, the band-on RD with a 31.8 band will not fit your 34.9mm seat tube. "you might find you can make it work" - sorry tell us more @Cycleops
Good news is that FDs are not expensive so go looking for a 34.9 band-on FD or find a braze-on and an adapter.
I am about to build up a new (to me) frame. Here's the relevant section of my list (weights in grammes):

STIs504​Cable, brake, front20​Cable, brake, rear39​Cable, brake, front, outer, compressionless45​Cable, brake, rear, outer, compressionless90​Brake, front, TRP Spyre176​ISO to post mount adapter34​Brake, rear, TRP Spyre176​ISO to post mount adapter34​RD283​FD113​Band on to braze-on adapter29​Barrel adjuster, FD cable4​Cable, gear, front (incl outer and ferrules)37​Cable, gear, rear (incl outer and ferrules)58​Cable ends2​Cage, bottleCage, bottleStem196​Bars320​Bar tape90​Bar tape gel pads90​


----------



## sotal (6 Jul 2020)

Yes the FD didn't worry me too much as it was one of the cheapest options. I was just hoping the clamp might swap over. The new one is a tiagra 4700. The old one is a tiagra triple 2203. The old one just bolts to the clamp so I was hoping the new one would too and I could just bolt it in place. 

It hasn't arrived yet though, so I can't check it yet.

Looking at tools, I might need the tool to set the tension on the bearings when putting the cranks in. I'm not sure if I've got that one. Again when they arrive I'll check.


----------



## sotal (10 Jul 2020)




----------



## DCBassman (12 Jul 2020)

sotal said:


> View attachment 535227


Now, THAT'S a pile of parts!


----------



## sotal (12 Jul 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Now, THAT'S a pile of parts!


Just waiting on one final part now (I hope!)


----------



## sotal (15 Jul 2020)

The final bit came so I stripped everything off the frame ready.

I've being weighing all the different bits just to get an idea of where the weight is on the bike. Obviously I'm not going to get obsessed about weight because otherwise I'd have bought lighter components than tiagra but there are odd little bits where it might be worth making savings.

So far comparing the new bits to the old there was a bit of a saving from the old cranks and BB to the new ones but a lot of that was lost with the larger cassette on the rear. I'd say there probably isn't going to be much in it weight wise between the old and the new.





Weight wise the frame comes in at 1.6kg as pictured above with the headset still in place. How does that compare with more modern bikes (it is a large frame)? The carbon fork adds about another 500g.


----------



## sotal (15 Jul 2020)

So the frame without headset is about 1.5kg which is no light weight but not horrendous from what I can see.

The wheels I think may be a little on the porky side.

The front wheel is: 915g without the tyre and tube.
The rear wheel is: 1095g.

The only other two areas that stood out to me as being a bit heavy were...

The seat and seat post which weigh 734g with a rear light attached.

Stem which weighed 207g.


I don't know if any of those things are worth the cost of replacing though?


----------



## sotal (15 Jul 2020)

All the bits are now back on, just got to put the cables on and set it all up.

I did break my torque wrench though doing the left hand thread on the BB, something seems to have snapped inside 🙄


----------



## gunja99 (16 Jul 2020)

Loving this thread. Very new to bike maintenance, etc would love to one day rebuild, etc. Still struggling with derailleurs for now (lot's of useful videos). Glad found this forum, great to browse


----------



## glasgowcyclist (18 Jul 2020)

How’s the headset?

I ask because mine need replaced and it’s not been easy to find a replacement as the original is no longer produced. Trek support eventually gave me the relevant part number for the current substitute: 423140. If yours needs replaced hopefully this will save you a bit of time.

I have ordered it via Evans but the only one they could find anywhere was in The Netherlands and three weeks on I’m still waiting for it to arrive. That’s not a problem as I no longer use the bike and I’m only fixing it to sell it.

(edited to correct the part number)


----------



## rogerzilla (18 Jul 2020)

1.5kg for a bare frame is light. A large 531C double-butted steel frame from 30 years ago would be about 2150g (bare, no fork).


----------



## sotal (19 Jul 2020)

glasgowcyclist said:


> How’s the headset?



I think it is ok, I've left it for now as it all feels smooth. I had an annoying creak on the bike before which I really hope has gone now. If it hasn't then that'll be one thing to look at, but the things that caused the creak wouldn't have fitted in with the headset anyway.

Basically it creaked when my right foot was between about 2 o'clock and 6 o'clock and it was under load. It also creaked when coasting if my right leg was extended (my default coasting position).

It sounded to me like it was coming from the front wheel area, which hasn't had much changed but the bottom bracket was well in need of replacement so I'm hoping it was that.

The current headset is a crane creek one, does that fit in with the part number you ordered?

It looks like the wheel weight isn't horrendous. I was looking at some Shimano 105 RS300 wheels that were on offer and they actually turned out to be slightly heavier than mine, so to get much lighter, I'd have to pay more than I wanted to!


----------



## glasgowcyclist (19 Jul 2020)

sotal said:


> The current headset is a crane creek one, does that fit in with the part number you ordered?



Yes, it's a Cane Creek part - €29


----------



## sotal (24 Jul 2020)

I didn't get round to posting a huge number of photos but it is finished!

I think it looks a lot more modern with the black to contrast the orange. I still live the colour and now it is so much nicer to ride. 

Took it for a short ride a few days ago and came back with a few issues. Sorted those and then today I went for a 36km very hilly ride to test out the gears. Approx 900m of climbing. I took a rucksack full of tools just in case and didn't end up needing any.

It wasn't a usual route and if avoided riding in this area due to the gears not working great on my old bike. The lowest gear on this new setup is lower than my old one and I was surprised to find myself in it on a number of occasions! I don't think I'd have made it up some of the hills in a higher gear. The worst hill was 1km long and according to Strava I averaged about 4km/h which is pathetic 🤣. But I made it up without walking!

Very happy at the fact that all the creaks have gone.

A few bits left to fettle but nearly there!


----------



## AndyRM (24 Jul 2020)

Love the colour too!


----------



## sotal (25 Jul 2020)

sotal said:


> View attachment 537783



Just out of interest, what do people think to the setup of the bike in terms of seat height and bar height? I hadn't really noticed how much lower the bars look. I'm late 30's, and not that flexible! I'm 6'3". I ride at least 90% of the time on the hoods, I move to the straight bar for a bit of a change every now and again and when going up steep hills. I occasionally drop onto the drops on long straight roads with good visibility.

I feel that the bike fits me well - I had it sized up at a LBS about 7 years ago. The only issue I have is neck ache on long rides, it starts predictably at between 50 and 60km and does get quite sore. I'm sure I'll build up into getting used to it but just wondered if a change in angle would alleviate it a little at minimal cost in effeciency.

The stem is currently angled down and there are 2 spacers below the stem and 1 above. I'm tempted to try moving the third spacer below the stem and to flip the stem. I'm guessing that doing this will probably have little negative impact due to the fact that I'm rarely in the drops and I'm not exactly racing, but that it may help the neck ache a little?


----------



## Ajax Bay (25 Jul 2020)

Flip the stem first leaving the spacers as are, and see how that feels. That will lift the bars about 2cm.


----------

