# Car D.I.Y.



## Drago (5 Mar 2020)

What car D.I.Y. jobs have you just completed, or which are rearing their ugly heads in the near future?

We're all manly men here (apart from the ladies) so feel free to dish the dirt, sparing no sordid, filthy, disgusting detail. If you have some dirty pics of the work on progress, then feel free to show us the polaroids.


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## screenman (5 Mar 2020)

I seldom take picture's of my jobs, I should do so more often.


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## Drago (5 Mar 2020)

screenman said:


> I seldom take picture's of my jobs, I should do so more often.


That's as maybe, but perhaps you could take some pictures of the work you've done on cars instead?


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## PeteXXX (5 Mar 2020)

NS mirror indicator needs replacing. It's one of those quick & easy little jobs that requires popping the motorised heated mirror glass out, without mullahing it, then 7 clips to remove the casing, two screws and a plug to change the led/lens, then reassemble in reverse order. 

Simples.....


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## Ming the Merciless (5 Mar 2020)

Filled mine up with fuel.


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## cyberknight (5 Mar 2020)

Paying someone to put in reversing sensors as i am a firm believer in the fact that some jobs are worth me not cocking up and causing hundreds of quids worth of damage .


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## dave r (5 Mar 2020)

Apart from checking tyres, lights and fluids I leave servicing and most jobs to the garage. I really should learn to do it myself, when I was younger and had motorbikes I used to do most of the jobs on them and theres no reason I shouldn't do so with the car.


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## Salty seadog (5 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> Paying someone to put in reversing sensors as* i am a firm believer in the fact that some jobs are worth me not cocking up and causing hundreds of quids worth of damage .*




.... What jobs....? 

Reversing.....


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## cyberknight (5 Mar 2020)

Salty seadog said:


> .... What jobs....?
> 
> Reversing.....


actually im having them fitted as mrs ck packed up driving after her stroke and has been told she can reapply for her liscence and tbh she felt more comfortable with it if they were fitted .


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## Salty seadog (5 Mar 2020)

I had my wing indicator light cover and bulb smashed off by some roadside protruding saplings. I recovered the light cover which had about 10% of one side broken off. I manfully purchased and fitted a new bulb before using super glue to reattach the cover and some blue tac to cover the gap and prevent water ingress.

I then took off my top and drank a diet coke whilst woman fawned over me.


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## cosmicbike (5 Mar 2020)

Where to start

Capri has a pair of new pattern wings in the post, so some welding to do there. Along with the front valance. And then the various little patches, engine out the list goes on.

Volvo needs a few bits of trim which are tough to find. Cambelt, water pump general service. Gearbox oil change, brake/clutch/power steering fluid. Tailgate hinges, rewire everything in the tailgate.

I think that's my Summer sorted, probably longer for the Crapi...


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## Salty seadog (5 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> actually im having them fitted as mrs ck packed up driving after her stroke and has been told she can reapply for her liscence and tbh she felt more comfortable with it if they were fitted .



Good man.


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## Drago (5 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> Paying someone to put in reversing sensors as i am a firm believer in the fact that some jobs are worth me not cocking up and causing hundreds of quids worth of damage .




View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_VrFV5r8cs0


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## cyberknight (5 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_VrFV5r8cs0



I know how much energy and concerntration i have spare after work and family = sweet FA


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## I like Skol (5 Mar 2020)

Last Saturday was a dry day so i fitted new rear brake pads and adjusted the tracking on my 4x4 toy.


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## Phaeton (5 Mar 2020)

Latest was after fetching Eric the Beetle, working out why the headlights didn't work properly, found the offside headlight lense had been put in upside down, the nearside didn't work as it had melted the wiring, new lengths of wire ordered along with sleeving & heatshrink, but as I'm away this week it won't get done until this weekend. Also has Eric has a big flatspot on acceleration & research found the 009 distributor he's fitted with is a fast race go faster type as preferred by the boy racers. I've bought a 034 electronic which will also be going in.

On another note the buggy in the avatar has been sold & I've just agreed to buy a GTM K3, another kitcar


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## Drago (5 Mar 2020)

Next job for me is new brakes on the Volvo. It's too big to go in the garage, and sitting outside and using it so little the discs corrode right quick.

The new discs have arrived, all 24kg of them, and I went for the Lockheed Delphi jobs with the zinc powder coat finish that should hopefully slow the edges from turning into a puff pastry.

I may repaint the calipers while I'm in there, but either silver or black. No chavvy red or blue, etc.


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## gavroche (5 Mar 2020)

Topped up windscreen washer reservoir yesterday. It is amazing how much you use it in this weather.


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## I like Skol (5 Mar 2020)

Swapped a headlamp bulb in Mrs Skols Audi A4 about 2 weeks ago. Took around an hour and a half to do, and I am good at stuff like this!!!!
Just been told it has gone again 

At least I should be a bit quicker this time. I begin to understand why there are so many cars driving around with a headlamp out......


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## Drago (5 Mar 2020)

One nice thing about Volvo's - lift 2 levers and the entire headlamp lifts out without the need for any tools. Makes bulb changes an almost joyful experience.


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## Gunk (5 Mar 2020)

I don’t service the cars these days, but still do my motorcycle myself, next job on my Fireblade is a full service including changing the plugs (pig of a job) and changing the rear brake pads. I’ll tackle it when the weather improves as I prefer to do it out on the drive where there’s more room.


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## I like Skol (5 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> One nice thing about Volvo's - lift 2 levers and the entire headlamp lifts out without the need for any tools. Makes bulb changes an almost joyful experience.


I cut my teeth on Vauxhauls from the 80s and 90s. Bulb replacement was a doddle, easy access and room to work.


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## sleuthey (5 Mar 2020)

Reserved an 8 month old Suzuki S Cross for viewing tomorrow. Put the original steel wheels back on the Seat tonight ready to take it to wbac.com


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## Rusty Nails (5 Mar 2020)

I don't drive a car anymore, I have a mobile computer.

I used to do all the work on my cars but as I've earned more money and got more feeble I pay others to do it. My days of lying on my back under a car are long gone.

I top up the windscreen washer reservoir and the tyre pressures, nothing else has needed doing for many years.


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## HMS_Dave (6 Mar 2020)

I drive mainly old tired cars because they're super cheap and forgetful. Frankly, i went down the route of buying brand new cars years ago only for some filthy oafs to slam car doors against it in car parks and cause damage. In the end i stopped it, brought old knackers and suddenly i no longer cared and stopped noticing and considered cars an A to B only thing and not some love affair as promised on the sales brochures . If it isn't cheap, old and widely considered cack by the general public, i will walk away from it. Learned how to fix cars from my retired mechanic dad, who has given me thousands worth in tools over the years and rarely use a pro mechanic for anything. That being said, i would happily walk away from cars altogether one day. The older ive got the less interested i am in them. Don't really know why...🤔 I think i am bitten by the cycling bug...


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## numbnuts (6 Mar 2020)

Years ago I would tackle any job on the car from rebuilding engines, gearboxes and diffs, but now I lift the bonnet and look “where the hell is everything” so now leave it to my local garage.


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## Pale Rider (6 Mar 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Last Saturday was a dry day so i fitted new rear brake pads and adjusted the tracking on my 4x4 toy.



Does your Landy have disc brakes?


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## screenman (6 Mar 2020)

sleuthey said:


> Reserved an 8 month old Suzuki S Cross for viewing tomorrow. Put the original steel wheels back on the Seat tonight ready to take it to wbac.com



Not an Ibiza with a dsg box is it, way better buyers around that will give you more than wbac.


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## Drago (6 Mar 2020)

Rusty Nails said:


> I don't drive a car anymore, I have a mobile computer.
> 
> I used to do all the work on my cars but as I've earned more money and got more feeble I pay others to do it. My days of lying on my back under a car are long gone.
> 
> I top up the windscreen washer reservoir and the tyre pressures, nothing else has needed doing for many years.


I must admit, I'm getting disinclined to do it myself as I get older, but I'm even more aggrieved at the thought of giving money to people for something I can do myself. When all is said and done though, this'll be my last car - when it finally expires that'll be the end of my driving days.

As for computers, I use a Chinese knock off of Volvo Vida and DICE, so can read and clear all codes, not just engine ones, configure new parts, alter base settings, all sorts of interesting stuff. I guess it's the modern equivalent of a hammer.


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## I like Skol (6 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> Does your Landy have disc brakes?


I would've struggled to fit new pads into a brake drum.


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## keithmac (6 Mar 2020)

I did a gearbox conversion last year, what a ballache!

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/the-joy.508672/

Saving up for tyres now, doing PTU and RDU oil changes when it warms up a bit..


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## mustang1 (6 Mar 2020)

Filling air in tyres.


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## Venod (6 Mar 2020)

I don't do much on my own car anymore its too new and complicated, but I have the pleasure and pain of the "kids" cars to work on, I have put a new boot handle o the lads Qashqai, sprayed and lacquered by me, and I have to say I was surprised how well it matched.
I did the bonnet lock on the son in laws Focus it was stuck shut, what a pain in the neck, who's stupid idea was that. I have a few programs for the laptop, and have reset warning lights, mainly DPF warnings, but a good blast down the motorway would have done the same. 
I don't have the enthusiasm for laying on my back under cars anymore, its usually wet and cold when these jobs need doing and I am just too old now.


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## Jody (6 Mar 2020)

Just changed the steering rack on my Scud and also fitted a new coolant temp sensor. Work to commence shortly (or be put off ) is swapping a faulty LPG injector, pair of top mounts and a check over of the lower suspension as there is a slight knock.


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## Jody (6 Mar 2020)

Rusty Nails said:


> I used to do all the work on my cars but as I've earned more money and got more feeble I pay others to do it. My days of lying on my back under a car are long gone.



I feel similar as the years go by. Some jobs are now strictly garage only as I can't be arsed getting caught with a problem.


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## Bazzer (6 Mar 2020)

Mrs B's I tend to leave alone other than engine bay fluids and exterior stuff. Way too many electricals and sensors for my comfort.*
My Golf pretty much anything if I have the time. Most recently replacing a rear door lock which had jammed, with the door locked and closed. Which made for a sweary few hours.
My Triumph, ground up restoration.
*Edit. Just remembered I have a set of brake pads bought on special offer which will be fitted by me in a few thousand miles.


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

Do most jobs on my car's unless it's too 'heavy', or the part has been on a long time. Pads are fine, although I've twice had the rears done at the local garage as I don't have a winding tool. Had both front ABS rings replaced - pig of a job for the garage as they've been there 18 years. 

I've currently got a loose baffle in my exhaust. As the 'zorst' is still in great condition (OE = 18 years), I've found out where it is and I'll be 'sticking it down' - first attempt with expanding glue has helped (drilled a couple of holes in the bottom of the muffler, poked in a spoke to find the loose baffle, and squirted a little glue in. Double checked location before drilling by rattling exhaust with my ear to the can. Checking parts lists on line, the 'muffler' that fits my car between manufacturing dates is twice the price of the rest - looks like Nissan altered the part slightly after 4 months of the car being available - I have one of the earliest models - it's 2cm shorter ! I doubt I could change it as exhaust bolts are notorious for being seized.

Fortunately, bulbs are all accessible. Rear clusters need whole lamp assembly removing, but that's two nuts and takes 2 minutes.

As for engine codes, Nissan build in a way of certain ignition key and accelerator presses to run diagnostics, that then flash up a code. - E.g. due to age of connections, I've had air bag lights come on in the past - namely steering wheel and drivers seat. Secret scan, reveals issue, disconnect air bag, liberal spray of contact cleaner, reconnect cable. Re-initiate the 'system scan', light goes out. If it comes back on, you've not cleaned the connector properly. I've also got an ODBC reader and 'torque app' for my phone - that will reset engine warnings if needed, but can't do air bags for safety reasons. Fortunately, the car has self diagnostics. Anyone not knowing these tricks would have paid a fortune going to the garage.


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

Jody said:


> I feel similar as the years go by. Some jobs are now strictly garage only as I can't be arsed getting caught with a problem.



My dad is a mechanic by trade, but he stopped doing cars when he retired - plus he can't get under them now - dodgy knees.


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## Electric_Andy (6 Mar 2020)

I chnaged the oil and filter in my fiesta; I had to borrow my dad's barn/shed and his axle stands so I got filthy. 

I also stupidly filled the window washers with a vinegar solution when I'd run out of screen wash. It cleaned them so thoroughly that all the gunk blocked the filter, so had to remove that and clean it. Good job done, but a bit of a faff.


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## Phaeton (6 Mar 2020)

I like to work on my cars when I want to, I hate to work on them because I have got to, I remember the old days when I just had to get it finished that night as I needed it to get to work the next day, been known to still be working on them past midnight. After that I always made sure I had 2 forms of transport, either 2 cars, or a motorbike & a car.


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> I like to work on my cars when I want to, I hate to work on them because I have got to, I remember the old days when I just had to get it finished that night as I needed it to get to work the next day, been known to still be working on them past midnight. After that I always made sure I had 2 forms of transport, either 2 cars, or a motorbike & a car.



It's so much better when the weather is good and you want to work on them.

Maybe we should have a 'show us your engine bay' thread - you could eat your dinner off my 18 year old car's engine bay (it's a daily driver too). PS I do need locking up.


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## I like Skol (6 Mar 2020)

You could eat your dinner off my 26yr old cars engine bay. You'd be mad to try it, and possibly quite ill afterwards, but you could do it


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)




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## Yellow Saddle (6 Mar 2020)




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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

Yellow Saddle said:


> View attachment 507261



Missed a bit, I don't eat my dinner off that bit as it would be tricky. 

PS the auxiliary belt is there, so I don't clean near it. Must do better though !


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## I like Skol (6 Mar 2020)

I'm not posting pictures of mine....


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## I like Skol (6 Mar 2020)

Wrong thread maybe, but rather proud of my current fettling 
Just fixed the timer for my outside lights. Battery was flat but when I replaced it part of the LCD display (display display, I know ) was out so I couldn't reset it 
Never one to throw stuff in the bin and replace without first attempting a fix so full strip down and removal of LCD from board, clean contacts with IPA (funny kind of rubbery contact strip?) and then reassemble.
Now has full display restored, was missing batt, prog and 1st digit of time before I intervened


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## keithmac (6 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> It's so much better when the weather is good and you want to work on them.
> 
> Maybe we should have a 'show us your engine bay' thread - you could eat your dinner off my 18 year old car's engine bay (it's a daily driver too). PS I do need locking up.



Cleanest flywheel?.


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

My 'Rover Metro GTa' (posh metro ) had one of those types of display with the rubbery contact on the radio. The back light failed on it, so couldn't see the station etc, so ordered a tiny 12V bulb, and just 'tied' it in place where the original was, then re-assembled the screen.


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## MichaelW2 (6 Mar 2020)

Can you do any diy on modern cars?


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## keithmac (6 Mar 2020)

MichaelW2 said:


> Can you do any diy on modern cars?



You can but you need factory equivalent diagnostics if you want to do anything substantial.

Apart from Electric Hybrids they all still have a "normal" engine etc, not magic involved.


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## figbat (6 Mar 2020)

I rarely do any car-based stuff any more, although I do have a seemingly uncontrollable urge to get stuck in. Car-before-current was a Skoda Yeti that we had had from new. Great car, just one major warranty claim (new gearbox needed) which I stayed well out of. However one day the wife came in the house and claimed "the boot won't shut". After rolling my eyes and assuming it was user error I went outside and determined after a thorough investigation that the problem was that "the boot won't shut".

However, almost before I knew it the interior trim was off and the errant boot latch was off the car and in my hand. Further to that, since it was a sealed unit which was not working I soon had it opened up and discovered the issue (the plastic worm gear in the screw-linear actuator had sheared). Surprisingly the genuine part from Skoda was only £30, came the next day and I had it fitted in minutes.

Some time later the lock on the fuel filler flap started to misbehave and, again it was soon off the car and replaced (another screw-linear actuator failure). It never occurred to me in either case to take it anywhere for fixing.

I am more hands-on on my motorbike though.


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## I like Skol (6 Mar 2020)

figbat said:


> one day the wife came in the house and claimed "the boot won't shut". After rolling my eyes* and assuming it was user error *I went outside and determined after a thorough investigation that the problem was that "the boot won't shut".


Why do we do that?


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## figbat (6 Mar 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Why do we do that?


Experience?


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

MichaelW2 said:


> Can you do any diy on modern cars?



Yes, just sometimes there is a computer in the way. £15-£20 for an ODBC reader and software for your smart phone.


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## fossyant (6 Mar 2020)

Oh and don't get me started on plastic parts.

A cracked plastic part caused a rather "squeaky botty" moment in the outside lane in a heavy rain shower - pop, the wipers stopped. All down to a plastic ball socket, and the 'edge' had cracked, allowing the ball joint to separate. Bought a whole replacement wiper motor, just for the little 'arm' - cheap as chips off ebay.


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## Pale Rider (6 Mar 2020)

I've yet to open the bonnet on my new to me Focus CMax.

Ought to have a look see just to familiarise myself with where the various fluids are topped up.

And make sure the latch works, although it almost inevitably will.


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## keithmac (6 Mar 2020)

Plastic inlet manifolds and plastic sumps are a pretty bad idea imho.


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## Ridgeway (6 Mar 2020)

On the caddy I’ve just installed 2 rear shocks, bump stops, rear discs and pads to get it through it’s MOT.

on the camper in Summer I installed rear air suspension and a 2 din radio, it needs a service that will get done this month, probably will change the front brake pads at the same time.

you can’t beat the satisfaction of completing a job on a vehicle and saving hundreds of £ that you can then go and waste on pointless bits of carbon for your bike


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## steveindenmark (6 Mar 2020)

Back in the 70s it was a Saturday morning ritual for all the guys to get out on the drive ways with a mug of tea and a Haynes manual. Sadly, those days are gone. I have Kia Picanto with 240, 000km on the clock and doesnt go wrong.


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## Gunk (6 Mar 2020)

steveindenmark said:


> Back in the 70s it was a Saturday morning ritual for all the guys to get out on the drive ways with a mug of tea and a Haynes manual. Sadly, those days are gone. I have Kia Picanto with 240, 000km on the clock and doesnt go wrong.



I’m still that man 👍


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## steveindenmark (6 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> I’m still that man 👍
> 
> 
> View attachment 507349


Yes. Me too 


View: https://youtu.be/Be480hYH0zY


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## Gunk (6 Mar 2020)

I love that 🥰


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## Pale Rider (6 Mar 2020)

steveindenmark said:


> Sadly, those days are gone.



Happily, those days are gone.


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## Drago (6 Mar 2020)

They were the good old days. Everyone smoked, perverts had yet to be outed, Bruce and Anthea on a saturday night, Watneys Party 7.


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## Smudge (6 Mar 2020)

Apart from checking levels, i dont do any work on my car.
I service my motorcycles myself.... because it's easy to do and the cost of motorcycle servicing is an absolute rip off.


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## Gunk (6 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> They were the good old days. Everyone smoked, perverts had yet to be outed, Bruce and Anthea on a saturday night, Watneys Party 7.



Cherry bomb silencer on your Mk 1 1300 Escort.


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## Drago (6 Mar 2020)

8 track in the Allegro blasting out Status Quo, the pungent smell of Brut 33...happy times.


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## Pale Rider (7 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> 8 track in the Allegro


You must have had the Vanden Plas version.


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## Levo-Lon (7 Mar 2020)

Still figuring out how new car stuff works, sorting driving position.. that's proving to be quite sufficient in my car DIY duties.

Also the nice valeting man has put something really fekin horrible on the windscreen..goes white when wiping rain.. I'll have to get that off as it's proving to be very stubborn


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## Levo-Lon (7 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> You must have had the Vanden Plas version.



It would have doubled its value


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## Drago (7 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> You must have had the Vanden Plas version.


HL. Twin carbs, doncherkmow?

Through a combination of terrible BL "engineering" and youthful exubersnce it ate 3 engines in a year. I'd used up so many 1750 units that they were becoming scarce locally, so I contemplated fitting a 1500, but it went when I joined the army and bought a Gixxer 11 to get me about.


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## Adam4868 (7 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> You must have had the Vanden Plas version.


With the velour interior and squarish steering wheel....I had one for a few weeks once as a teenager.Dad lent it me.


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## gbb (7 Mar 2020)

Theres still scope for old style mechanics on cars. A normal service should hold no fear for most able people, I just did my DILs front discs and pads on her 207 a month or so ago, piece of cake. First brake work I have done in decades, I cant remember the last time I did them on my cars , maybe 30 years ago, I'm very light on brakes.


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## gbb (7 Mar 2020)

I had an Allegro 1750 HL, it had a crunch sometime that required you to continuously hold the steering wheel to stop it hauling itself off the road , must have had a bent steering component...amazing really, you just wouldn't do it now but I suppose needs must when you are young, stupid and skint .
It was a good car otherwise, never had any other problems with it, pokey as well.


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## neil_merseyside (7 Mar 2020)

Adam4868 said:


> With the velour interior and squarish steering wheel....I had one for a few weeks once as a teenager.Dad lent it me.


Quartic? wheel I think, Skoda have them now - for all the BFB's getting in and out (Yes I own a Skoda, and I might be OK!)


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## gbb (7 Mar 2020)

What car DIY did you start and never finish or gulp and realise...I've gone deeper than I thought ?
Front wheel bearings on a Maestro...yeah, no problem, I can do those. Until I got the hub off and realised I couldn't get the press fit bearing off because its pressed on up to a flange so you cant get any normal pullers on them. Put it all back together and drove it to work and used the workshops bench press, grinder and cutting discs etc. Nearly bit off more than I could chew.

Marek at work is a very very good mechanic, always doing cars on the side. He stripped a Beemer engine top end for the first time then realised he couldn't figure how to get all the variable valve timing bits back together. He had to go to a scrapyard strip one to see how it went back together


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## screenman (7 Mar 2020)

Funny you guys fix cars for fun, I fix cars for fun also but because I charge then I am working.


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## Phaeton (7 Mar 2020)

gbb said:


> What car DIY did you start and never finish or gulp and realise...I've gone deeper than I thought ?


Back in the late 70's possibly very early 80's had a Ford Cortina MK3 1600 GT 2 door, 1972 (I think) rare even back then, hens teeth I would imagine today. But it failed MOT on the front top arm wishbone bushes, it's a bolt 15-18 inch long that goes from one side to the other through a tube obviously no grease points in it. It had seized, we ended up with 2 blow torches & a sledge hammer to try to get it out, not a F'ing chance, we ended up bending the subframe. Had to go to the scrapyard & get a full front subframe & suspension of of one in there to get it through the test. This was a car that was less than 10 years old, young uns of today don't know they're born with cars these days.


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## screenman (7 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Back in the late 70's possibly very early 80's had a Ford Cortina MK3 1600 GT 2 door, 1972 (I think) rare even back then, hens teeth I would imagine today. But it failed MOT on the front top arm wishbone bushes, it's a bolt 15-18 inch long that goes from one side to the other through a tube obviously no grease points in it. It had seized, we ended up with 2 blow torches & a sledge hammer to try to get it out, not a F'ing chance, we ended up bending the subframe. Had to go to the scrapyard & get a full front subframe & suspension of of one in there to get it through the test. This was a car that was less than 10 years old, young uns of today don't know they're born with cars these days.



The idea was to drop the cross member out and put it on a press if I remember correctly, I was working on those for a living back in the mid seventies.


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## Phaeton (7 Mar 2020)

screenman said:


> The idea was to drop the cross member out and put it on a press if I remember correctly, I was working on those for a living back in the mid seventies.


You could well be right, we couldn't shift the furking thing, it was a very badly designed idea, something that probably looked good on a drawing but not in practise on British roads.


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## Pale Rider (7 Mar 2020)

Adam4868 said:


> With the velour interior and squarish steering wheel....I had one for a few weeks once as a teenager.Dad lent it me.



Nah, leather seats and a walnut dash on the Vanden Plas.



gbb said:


> I had an Allegro 1750 HL, it had a crunch sometime that required you to continuously hold the steering wheel to stop it hauling itself off the road , must have had a bent steering component...amazing really, you just wouldn't do it now but I suppose needs must when you are young, stupid and skint .
> It was a good car otherwise, never had any other problems with it, pokey as well.



Mate of mine had what might have been an 1100 Allegro.

He thrashed it over many miles, and it never missed a beat.

Lots did give bother, but there were a lot that didn't.


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## keithmac (7 Mar 2020)

One of my ex girlfriends dads had a Maestro that talked to you, early 90's possibly?.

My first car was a Rover Metro 1.1s, had suspension you pumped up iirc? loved it!.


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

keithmac said:


> One of my ex girlfriends dads had a Maestro that talked to you, early 90's possibly?.
> 
> My first car was a Rover Metro 1.1s, had suspension you pumped up iirc? loved it!.



It was the Maestro. One of the lads at work had a brand new MG version. 

My Metro was a 1.4 GTa and that went like poop of a shovel. No weight ! It was also good for carrying bikes.


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## Bazzer (7 Mar 2020)

gbb said:


> What car DIY did you start and never finish or gulp and realise...I've gone deeper than I thought ?
> ......



Early in my car career I did a cylinder head decoke. Up to that point other than the usual tyre pressures and coolant checks, my biggest jobs had been changing the spark plugs and the rear brake shoes. 
Doing it after work, it took a week and there were a couple of times I thought I had bitten of more than I could chew.


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## screenman (7 Mar 2020)

keithmac said:


> One of my ex girlfriends dads had a Maestro that talked to you, early 90's possibly?.
> 
> My first car was a Rover Metro 1.1s, had suspension you pumped up iirc? loved it!.



I had one in fact a couple when I was dealing cars SOX 5Y was the the of one of them. The plate is now on a Ford.


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## Phaeton (7 Mar 2020)

keithmac said:


> My first car was a Rover Metro 1.1s, had suspension you pumped up iirc? loved it!.


I have a pump in my garage for them


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> I have a pump in my garage for them



And you could re-grease the suspension with a grease gun.


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## I like Skol (7 Mar 2020)

Fixed that failed headlamp on wife's car earlier. 1st replacement bulb lasted 2-3 days before it failed. Don't know why, looks perfectly good. Filament appears intact and glass is sparkly clear with no smoking or fingerprints (I made sure not to touch it) so just a random premature failure).
Let's see how long the 2nd replacement lasts. It was bought at the same time as a spare, that's foresight fire you.....


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Fixed that failed headlamp on wife's car earlier. 1st replacement bulb lasted 2-3 days before it failed. Don't know why, looks perfectly good. Filament appears intact and glass is sparkly clear with no smoking or fingerprints (I made sure not to touch it) so just a random premature failure).
> Let's see how long the 2nd replacement lasts. It was bought at the same time as a spare, that's foresight fire you.....



I've found the 'posh' bulbs don't last that long, so I've given up - they are a bit better, but they are run harder, so fail much quicker.


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## screenman (7 Mar 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Fixed that failed headlamp on wife's car earlier. 1st replacement bulb lasted 2-3 days before it failed. Don't know why, looks perfectly good. Filament appears intact and glass is sparkly clear with no smoking or fingerprints (I made sure not to touch it) so just a random premature failure).
> Let's see how long the 2nd replacement lasts. It was bought at the same time as a spare, that's foresight fire you.....




Bad earth somewhere.


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

I must say, I do like those 'piggy back' fuse adapters for powering stuff like dash cams. Haven't bothered to splice into any of my car's wiring as it's canbus (like most new cars now), but the plug in fuse adapter is a doddle and so neat.


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## I like Skol (7 Mar 2020)

These were 'Bluecol' standard bulbs from Sainsbury's petrol station, nothing special.


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

screenman said:


> Bad earth somewhere.



Hmm, out with that magical stuff called 'electrical contact cleaner'. Ace stuff.


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

I like Skol said:


> These were 'Bluecol' standard bulbs from Sainsbury's petrol station, nothing special.



That's what use, or Ring. I've given up getting the Osram or Philips "phaser taser" editions.


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## Gunk (7 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> Hmm, out with that magical stuff called 'electrical contact cleaner'. Ace stuff.



Or old fashioned wire wool, I use it for everything


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## I like Skol (7 Mar 2020)

screenman said:


> Bad earth somewhere.


I wondered about a poor connection but doesn't that cause blackened/mirrored glass?


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> Or old fashioned wire wool, I use it for everything



I must say, what can sometimes look like a clean connection, isn't. Used the spray on Xbox controller battery compartment - the 'contacts' to the controller looked fine, but wouldn't work. Squirt, dry, sorted.


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## Drago (7 Mar 2020)

screenman said:


> Funny you guys fix cars for fun, I fix cars for fun also but because I charge then I am working.


I'm as capable as any spanner monkey, and I work for free, so in terms of bottom line I too do it for financial advantage.

I wouldn't say it's fun, but on a nice day, a well planned job with all the parts and tools to hand, plentiful supplies of PG and Planet Rock burbling in the background it can be a relaxing g, cathartic and very satisfying experience.


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## Gunk (7 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> I'm as capable as any spanner monkey, and I work for free, so in terms of bottom line I too do it for financial advantage.
> 
> I wouldn't say it's fun, but on a nice day, a well planned job with all the parts and tools to hand, plentiful supplies of PG and Planet Rock burbling in the background it can be a relaxing g, cathartic and very satisfying experience.



I completely agree, it’s good for the soul.


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## neil_merseyside (7 Mar 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Fixed that failed headlamp on wife's car earlier. 1st replacement bulb lasted 2-3 days before it failed. Don't know why, looks perfectly good. Filament appears intact and glass is sparkly clear with no smoking or fingerprints (I made sure not to touch it) so just a random premature failure).
> Let's see how long the 2nd replacement lasts. It was bought at the same time as a spare, that's foresight fire you.....


Hopefully just bad luck but might be the alternator charge control pack just on its way out and popping the new albeit poorer bulb? Mate had this on a VX Astra, took out two or three bulbs before he thought it might be a trend - it was, new alternator pack sorted it.


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## Pale Rider (8 Mar 2020)

keithmac said:


> My first car was a Rover Metro 1.1s, had suspension you pumped up iirc? loved it!.



Hydragas/Hydrolastic suspension as fitted to many BMC/BL cars from the 1960s onwards.

We had a workshop pump which had a reservoir about the size of a small orange box which used to sit on four short legs.

Similar is still made, although this one is more drum shaped.

https://www.albadiagnostics.com/product/20/hydragas_suspension_pump


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## Phaeton (8 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> Hydragas/Hydrolastic suspension as fitted to many BMC/BL cars from the 1960s onwards.
> 
> We had a workshop pump which had a reservoir about the size of a small orange box which used to sit on four short legs.
> 
> ...


This is the one I have, can't believe the price, https://www.liquid-levers.com/shop/...pension-pump/867885921ff84a86db621325d91243db


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## Pale Rider (8 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> This is the one I have, can't believe the price, https://www.liquid-levers.com/shop/...pension-pump/867885921ff84a86db621325d91243db



That was very like the one we had.

Ours was on legs which I suspect was to make it easier to operate the pump lever.


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## Phaeton (8 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> That was very like the one we had.
> Ours was on legs which I suspect was to make it easier to operate the pump lever.


Bought it 10 years ago when I put hydragas rear suspension on the buggy, was going to sell it, but the new kitcar also has hydragas at the moment, but I'm likely to change it over to coilovers.


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## Phaeton (8 Mar 2020)

Just searched for "Liquid levers" on Fleecebay to see if any other pumps are for sale & came across https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LIQUID-L...909666?hash=item4b6e68cee2:g:l5EAAOSwghZdxx0y I want it, no use for it, just want it as a display item, looks so cool.


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## skudupnorth (9 Mar 2020)

Recently swapped the 13” steel wheels for some nice 15” BBS alloys but they required 5mm spacers and longer bolts to fit.
Adjusted clutch cable which is so simple. Need to sort out door strap at some point but that can wait till we get better weather along with the damaged wing which a nice old lady hit ☹️


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## Pale Rider (9 Mar 2020)

Neat job, although the speedo may be knocked out of whack unless the new tyres are lower profile to give the same circumference.


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## Drago (9 Mar 2020)

It's nice to see someone taking the time and effort to keep and old car going. Aside from the massive financial advantages, it's far better for mother earth than ravaging the planet to manufacture a replacement.


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## skudupnorth (9 Mar 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> Neat job, although the speedo may be knocked out of whack unless the new tyres are lower profile to give the same circumference.


I did check the comparison between the two sizes and thankfully there is about a 1mph difference. Those signs that tell your speed are useful as well and the three I went past said there was no difference so all is good...... just got to get used to rattling my dentures out with the lower profile tyres on our wonderful roads 😆


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## Pale Rider (9 Mar 2020)

Aye, ride quality or lack of it is another consideration with low profile tyres.

As regards speedo accuracy checking, the old fashioned way to do it was to use the mile - or km - posts on most motorways, and a watch with a second hand.


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## Phaeton (9 Mar 2020)

If you can find it each council has to have a measured 1/4 mile to calibrate Taxi meters.


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## Drago (9 Mar 2020)

GPS is pretty accurate _if_ you can find a nice flat, straight piece of road. Makes life easy these days for speedo checking.


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## cosmicbike (9 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> GPS is pretty accurate _if_ you can find a nice flat, straight piece of road. Makes life easy these days for speedo checking.



I have a GPS app on the phone. I was wondering why people were tailgating the Ovlov, then discovered an indicated 30mph is actually 24mph... Gets worse on the motorway, with 70mph being 61mph.
It can be adjusted, but being an electronic speedo needs the dash stripping, speedo stripping and a resistor changing for a different value. Be easier to Tippex the binnacle glass


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## Nigeyy (9 Mar 2020)

Nothing for me -on purpose. I try to do all jobs necessary prior to the onset of Winter as my garage is very well ventilated having open sides and open roof (OK, it's the driveway). In Winter it gets pretty cold, so I try not to have to work on the car then, though this winter has been extremely mild.

Last job was an epic wheel bearing morphing to an almost complete brake system replacement jobbie. That was enough for me! Fortunately as things stand, I have no to do list on the cars except for regular oil and filter change....


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## Phaeton (10 Mar 2020)

Went to work in the Bug yesterday only to find it has no heating at all, so that will be my next job, work out why & what is needed to get some it was bloody cold, it has an aftermarket exhaust, I wonder if the heat exchanger's have been removed


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## Phaeton (10 Mar 2020)

Got the Bug up in the air on the ramps today to change the distributor, it's damn low if you don't, new electronic distributor fitted, a play with the timing, followed by a bit of carburettor tuning runs a lot better & no flat spot, hopefully I'm not bragging too soon. Whilst it had it's arse in the air I had a look at the heat exchangers, they are all in place, the passenger side one was working as it should but we were using the wrong lever, didn't realise there was 2, the drivers side as not cable to flap lever on so for the time being a cable tie is holding the flap open, might have to open a window if it gets too warm.


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## gbb (23 Mar 2020)

Quick oil and filter change this morning. No social interaction I hasten to add 
Isnt oil expensive right now ?
Last oil change, last year was £18 offer for Halfords brand fully synthetic. I did find some cheaper stuff bet it didnt display the specs. Ended up with Syntium 3000 I think, £34 at Halfords.
Due to potential lockdown I can see me getting the pollen and air filters in a few weeks time.


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## Phaeton (23 Mar 2020)

gbb said:


> Quick oil and filter change this morning. No social interaction I hasten to add


I did the wife's Rav4 yesterday, the oil filter is a paper one, you're supposed to unscrew the drain from the bottom of the filter, then unscrew the outer casing, somebody in the past has obviously used that bolt head to tighten up the filter, had to unscrew the filter housing & get drenched in oil It was impossible to undo it even in the vice. I darn't put too much weight on it as it's only aluminium, didn't want the car off the road. Have to get a price from Toyota for a new part when i'm brave enough to call.

But yes price of oil is stupidly high currently, got to be artificial as the price of crude is at a long time low at the moment.


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## Salad Dodger (1 Apr 2020)

My car will shortly have a little welding done to one sill (mot advisory in its test today), so I imagine some painting or undersealing may be added to my "to do" list fairly soon....


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## Gunk (1 Apr 2020)

How old is your car? I’ve not needed any welding on a car for over 30 years, they seem to last for ever these days.


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## anothersam (2 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> feel free to dish the dirt, sparing no sordid, filthy, disgusting detail. If you have some dirty pics of the work on progress, then feel free to show us the polaroids.


If only. Our car is basically a large white good to me. Alas I have no expertise in either department, opting instead to employ the services of professionals such as the plumber who offers a near full moon whenever he bends over to attend to the washing machine, and the crack team of slave labour* that washes our vehicle every great once in a while (*this might not be a joke). 

I am charged with filling it when petrol when thirsty, the tyres with air when nearing critical deflation, the wiper fluid reservoir with whatever that blue stuff is, 






_Also used in slushy machines?_

and hacking off the effluent from passing birds with the ice scraper, which let me tell you, really doesn’t work as well as it should. As a callow youth I even killed a Toyota Tercel by managing to be innocent of the knowledge that oil should be fed to horseless carriages from time to time…

Fortunately, being a roadie, I’m quite a bit better at looking after our small stable of bicycles. But that wasn’t your question. All I can offer is this sad picture, from a dozen years ago, of our last car being taken away by a collector when it had ended its life of service to us. Note it was a “left hooker”, as our mechanic at the time used to call it: shipped from the States, where people drive on the sensible side of the road.





_Why is the steering wheel over here? Is this a clown car?_


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## HMS_Dave (2 Apr 2020)

Nothing exciting on mine this year. I have a squeaky clutch pedal when depressed. Diagnosed it to a dry ball joint in the linkage but i cant find my lithium grease. Service is due oh and i have a leaky water pipe i noticed recently at the bottom of the expansion tank. Its all special clips otherwise it would have likely been a case of nipping up the jubilee clip!


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## Drago (2 Apr 2020)

Before my stepmum bequeathed me the XC90 my Dad took it to the dealers and told them he wants a full service, cambelt, pump and pulleys, and an M.O.T, and he finger wagged them and told them he wanted a clean ticket with no advisories. Bless him, I ended up with a 140,000 mile car that drives like new. I may actually drive it somewhere tomorrow.


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## Phaeton (2 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> Before my stepmum bequeathed me the XC90 my Dad took it to the dealers and told them he wants a full service, cambelt, pump and pulleys, and an M.O.T, and he finger wagged them and told them he wanted a clean ticket with no advisories. Bless him, I ended up with a 140,000 mile car that drives like new. I may actually drive it somewhere tomorrow.


C'mon @Drago hardly DIY was it, stop boasting


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## Drago (2 Apr 2020)

I had to drive it home myself!


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## Phaeton (2 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> I had to drive it home myself!


Chauffeurs day off?


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## gbb (2 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> Before my stepmum bequeathed me the XC90 my Dad took it to the dealers and told them he wants a full service, cambelt, pump and pulleys, and an M.O.T, and he finger wagged them and told them he wanted a clean ticket with no advisories. Bless him, I ended up with a 140,000 mile car that drives like new. I may actually drive it somewhere tomorrow.


I could easily imagine a £1000 plus bill for that lot ...and maybe then some.


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## cosmicbike (2 Apr 2020)

Well it's not really stopped on Grace, the '93 Volvo 240. She's still keeping me amused with funny running intermittently. Works done this week
1. All drive belts changed
2. New timing belt
3. New engine coolant temperature sensor (which may have been the cause for the rough running, but wasn't)
4. New brake/clutch fluid (With the new man tool, Gunson Eezibleed, very good)
5. New water pump

Still due, oil change (can't get filter off, can't find filter removing tool, buried somewhere behind the Capri no doubt). Gearbox oil change, the drain plug I have freed off, the fill plug I have rounded off and is awaiting me to weld either a big nut onto, or a spanner, to enable the correct level of violence to be applied. Praise Volvo for gluing the fill plugs into the post'92 gearboxes as the fluid was good for life (it isn't..).

Awaiting warmer weather, suspension arm and bushes, tailgate wiring.

I also have new wings for the Capri, so some welding to do there too.

It's all far more fun than decorating, but apparently I have some of that to do as well


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## Drago (2 Apr 2020)

anothersam said:


> hipped from the States, where people drive on the sensible side of the road.


Alas, not at all sensible. Most folk are right handed, so you lance and sword arm is on the side of you facing away from your enemies. If Saddam were clever he'd have invaded Kuwait on the left side of the road, leaving all the coalition (apart from the British) unable to counter this dastardly move.


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## smokeysmoo (2 Apr 2020)

I flashed the wheels of the C'eed over with some black spray yesterday. It was a faff as the wheel trims are held on by the wheel nuts, so I had to jack each wheel, (don't possess a trolley jack!), remove the nuts, take the wheel trim off and replace the nuts.

Clean the steel wheel, mask off the chrome wheel nuts. flash over the wheel, unmask the nuts, jack every wheel, remove the nuts, replace the wheel trim and replace the nuts again.

Sounds proper nuts now I've typed it out, but when I bought the paint ages ago I hadn't realised the trims where held in place by the wheel nuts, and since I found out it's one of those jobs I've put off and put off, but funnily enough I now find I've got time to do such things, also I'm bored enough to bother, and as they say the devil is in the detail


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## Bazzer (2 Apr 2020)

smokeysmoo said:


> I flashed the wheels of the C'eed over with some black spray yesterday. It was a faff as the wheel trims are held on by the wheel nuts, so I had to jack each wheel, (don't possess a trolley jack!), remove the nuts, take the wheel trim off and replace the nuts.
> 
> Clean the steel wheel, mask off the chrome wheel nuts. flash over the wheel, unmask the nuts, jack every wheel, remove the nuts, replace the wheel trim and replace the nuts again.
> 
> Sounds proper nuts now I've typed it out, but when I bought the paint ages ago I hadn't realised the trims where held in place by the wheel nuts, and since I found out it's one of those jobs I've out off and put off, but funnily enough I now find I've got time to do such things, also I'm bored enough to bother, and as they say the devil is in the detail


Which reminds me I need to remove some patchy surface rust and repaint in silver the disc brake rotors on Mrs B's Tiguan. The car is going nowhere at the moment, so now would be a good opportunity.
Anal I know, but seeing it behind the alloy wheels visually irritates me when I have to use the car.


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## Phaeton (2 Apr 2020)

Jobs done on the Beetle in the last couple of weeks, rocker covers off & new gaskets fitted, engine oil drained, oil filter cleaned & returned, new oil filled up. Was going to change the brake pipes but on proper inspection they had been under sealed so don't need doing. But noticed a leak from the trans-axle to driveshaft, new boot ordered & fitted, went to top the gearbox oil up only to find the container that said it was gear oil didn't have gear oil in, you can tell just by the smell. Whilst out on my ride yesterday I called in a motorspares & picked a litre up, today topped the gearbox up it was down about 1/2 litre.

Today was the horn, it was on a on/off switch in the dashboard not on the steering wheel, effectively works for regulation purposes but not if needed in an emergency. Traced the wiring that somebody had butchered, they changed the polarity around so it was positive through switch to horn to earth, this was on all new wiring just thrown into the car, there was also a relay that was there that was not doing anything, but had picked up the old wiring. Removed the steering wheel to find the wire coming up the column not connected to anything but with 12V on it so it could easily have been arcing out as we went around corners lol. Picked up the old wiring again, rewired it through the horn, then took apart the horn push in the steering wheel, modified it so it worked again, put a connector behind the horn push so the steering wheel can still be taken off, switch ignition on press horn, parp, parp parp all works as intended.

Went to start to move it, nothing, narda, no starter motor, so that looks like tomorrows job to see what I have disturbed fixing the lat few, I've either disturbed a wire in the fusebox or possibly the drive boot I put on is quite close to the starter motor so maybe I've caught something there. At least I won;t have to attach a computer to tell me what I need to replace.


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## cosmicbike (2 Apr 2020)

Bazzer said:


> Which reminds me I need to remove some patchy surface rust and repaint in silver the disc brake rotors on Mrs B's Tiguan. The car is going nowhere at the moment, so now would be a good opportunity.
> Anal I know, but seeing it behind the alloy wheels visually irritates me when I have to use the car.


If you paint them red or yellow it will make the car faster. That's what the local Corsa boys have told me


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## Bazzer (2 Apr 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> If you paint them red or yellow it will make the car faster. That's what the local Corsa boys have told me


It wouldn't go either with the rest of the car, (dark olive), or the wheels. And even Mrs B would notice. 

As it happens it turned out quite fortuitous for three reasons.
Firstly, I deliberately seconded child 2 to help. Partly to give her something to do as college has closed, but also to give her the opportunity to practice (supervised) what to do if she had to change a wheel on her own car. - Albeit the wheels are way heavier than on her own car, as she also has a VW, the jack, jacking point indicators, etc., are common.
Secondly, I discovered the tool to remove the plastic wheel nut covers had disappeared. It had been there before the tyres were replaced around Christmas and given Mrs B only drives the car and sometimes fills it up, I can only surmise someone at the tyre fitters light fingered lifted it, or CBA to put it back. But, better to discover this on my drive with access to a tool which would do the job, rather than a cold, dark, wet night on the hard shoulder of a motorway.
Thirdly, as child 2 visually checked the second tyre whilst it was off the car, she found a clout nail buried in the tread. So a quick lesson in the use of a space saver tyre for her and a trip to Kwik Fit for me tomorrow.


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## anothersam (3 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> Alas, not at all sensible. Most folk are right handed, so you lance and sword arm is on the side of you facing away from your enemies. If Saddam were clever he'd have invaded Kuwait on the left side of the road, leaving all the coalition (apart from the British) unable to counter this dastardly move.


A while ago* I compiled a list of countries showing how many do not appear to have gotten that most instructive memo. Then there’s this McLaren F1:






_Specially built for middle lane hoggers_


*it's been so long that some may no longer be countries


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## biggs682 (3 Apr 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> If you paint them red or yellow it will make the car faster. That's what the local Corsa boys have told me



That's a myth , pee green is the colour


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## gbb (4 Apr 2020)

Removed the MAF sensor,thorough clean with residue free solvent cleaner, refit. All good, Wasn't visually dirty once removed but may prevent any future problems.
60k on the clock, I brought it at 9k, 11 months old,you soon clock the mileage up.


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## keithmac (5 Apr 2020)

I'm close to putting back together the Mk2 Golf gearbox with new bearings, 3rd gear synchro and diff bolt kit (been in bits a year..)

BUT I also have a Mk3 16v ABF gearbox on the shelf which would require a lot of work to fit but is a much better/ stonger 'box from the factory.

Also mulling over converting it to bike throttle bodies..


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## rogerzilla (6 Apr 2020)

It's looking like I'll need to change the oil in the MX-5 myself this year as the Mazda dealer is closed until further notice. It's a hideous job on the Mk3 without a lift or pit. I never trust axle stands so I jack it and let the front wheels rest on a pile of blocks so it can't go anywhere. This gives just enough room to shimmy underneath but, even then, my nose touches the underside. And the oil filter is under a cover with another 3 bolts to undo. Maybe I can hire a place with a pit for an hour?


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## Gunk (6 Apr 2020)

rogerzilla said:


> It's looking like I'll need to change the oil in the MX-5 myself this year as the Mazda dealer is closed until furthee notice. It's a hideous job on the Mk3 without a lift or pit. I never trust axle stands so I jack it and let the front wheels rest on a pile of blocks so it can't go anywhere. This gives just enough room to shimmy underneath but, even then, my nose touches the underside. And the oil filter is under a cover with another 3 bolts to undo. Maybe I can hire a place with a pit for an hour?



Can’t it just wait, surely you’re not going to put many miles on it with what’s going on, Mrs Gunks Mini is due for a major service and MOT this month, I’m just going to leave until later in the year.


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## Bonefish Blues (6 Apr 2020)

The pollen filter on any recent Volvo is about as frustrating as it gets. Of course it helps if you're trying to jam the right filter in the right slot


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## Phaeton (6 Apr 2020)

Bonefish Blues said:


> The pollen filter on any recent Volvo is about as frustrating as it gets. Of course it helps if you're trying to jam the right filter in the right slot


I have the Rav4 to do it came with the service pack, but I have no idea where it is on the car


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## Drago (6 Apr 2020)

Ditto the Volvo. Probably do it myself if the restrictions arent lifted soon. I already have about half the 7 litres of oil needed, as each time it goes to the dealer fir a service my Dad was given a litre of oil for top ups. Of course, it never uses a drip of oil between services so I've 4 litres of A5 0w30 ready to go. Luckily its last service was the big one (with belts, pulleys and water pump) so I don't need to replace the coolant, brake fluid, air filter, diesel filter, cabin filter etc. It'll be an oil and filter, lube hinges and locks, top up levels, and then very laboriously get it in the air to check for play in everything. It's a ballache and I'd just as soon pay the dealer, but that's awkward at the moment with all that's going on, so sod it.

Today I'll plug in the smart charger as I don't know when itll next be used.


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## BianchiVirgin (7 Apr 2020)

Volvo pollen filter is a bit of a faff but there are a lot worse. I did both in about 15mins each. XC60 and XC70.


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## cosmicbike (7 Apr 2020)

Didn't fancy Volvo fiddling today, so turned my attention to the 2 litre pinto engine that's in the corner of the garage. Head is already off and awaiting a full strip/rebuild once I order the valve stem seals, I'll be fitting the CVH seals as they are trapped under the valve springs so never go anywhere, the stock ones can pop off unless you Loctite them on which results in a rather smokey motor.
Today was water pump off (knackered), fuel pump off (also knackered), auxiliary shaft out which looks OK. Engine turned over on the stand and sump off, initial look doesn't have any screaming issues but will be checking the shells as part of the strip down when the pistons come out. The bores need honing so likely to fit new rigs at the same time.
Not sure if I'll do any tweaks, there are options to get a decent power uplift but in the current climate I think it will be a standard build over a period of many months. No rush as its destined for the Capri which needs the body to be tidied first.


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## Drago (8 Apr 2020)

Tomorrow I'm going to clean up and paint the rear calipers on my XC90. I did consider chavvy red or vulgar Sloda green, but being discrete and unassuming chap I am I'll do them in black. They're really not at all bad and inordinarily wouldn't bother, but time is weighing heavily upon me, as I'm sure it is everyone else.


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## rogerzilla (8 Apr 2020)

I think you can bore a Pinto out more than a CVH . There were always more tuners working on Pintos, despite it being the older design. Once you get to later 16v engines, most of the work has been done already and it's harder to add any meaningful gains.


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## cosmicbike (8 Apr 2020)

rogerzilla said:


> I think you can bore a Pinto out more than a CVH . There were always more tuners working on Pintos, despite it being the older design. Once you get to later 16v engines, most of the work has been done already and it's harder to add any meaningful gains.


Indeed it is a very tuneable lump, much like the older X-flow. Overbore to 2.1 is the norm with a peaky cam and twin sidedraughts in 40 or 45mm guise, normally on the favoured 205 block. I've only a 20 block, and since it looks clean I'll just build as is for now. It's only my 2nd pinto so still learning, but find it a very enjoyable way to spend my time.


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## rogerzilla (9 Apr 2020)

The CVH did have one neat feature: you could change the valve seals without taking the head off! Similarly, there were some FWD Vauxhalls where you could change the clutch without removing the gearbox or driveshafts. That was genius.


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## Phaeton (9 Apr 2020)

Like a silly person I stripped down a Rover K series VVC head, now I can't find good instructions on how to put it back together to get the cams to line up properly


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## Drago (9 Apr 2020)

I took one look at the FZR head and promptly sent it to a specialist engineer to redo the valves and set the clearances. I could have done it, but would have been such a ball ache I reckon the expense was justified.


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## gbb (10 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> I took one look at the FZR head and promptly sent it to a specialist engineer to redo the valves and set the clearances. I could have done it, but would have been such a ball ache I reckon the expense was justified.


We have a maintenance engineer here who is very proficient on cars and does a lot of work from home, there's not much that phases him. He send the heads out when he does top ends, leaking head gaskets etc. He reckons its not excessively costly, someone else does the donkey work and he knows it will be 100% when it gets back. No brainer he reckons.


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## gbb (10 Apr 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Like a silly person I stripped down a Rover K series VVC head, now I can't find good instructions on how to put it back together to get the cams to line up properly


And the same guy i mentioned in the post above stripped a Beemer head then realised he couldnt work out how it went back (the one time he bit off more than he could chew by his own admission), VVT was complex to say the least. He went to a scrappers and stripped one down to see how it went back together


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## Cavalol (10 Apr 2020)

It's hardly cutting edge mechanical genius, but after finally clearing all the spares out of the back of the Lada, I got the rear seats back up. Noticed the steering wheel was a bit loose, too, plus the passenger and driver seats, so tightened them up.


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## Levo-Lon (10 Apr 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Back in the late 70's possibly very early 80's had a Ford Cortina MK3 1600 GT 2 door, 1972 (I think) rare even back then, hens teeth I would imagine today. But it failed MOT on the front top arm wishbone bushes, it's a bolt 15-18 inch long that goes from one side to the other through a tube obviously no grease points in it. It had seized, we ended up with 2 blow torches & a sledge hammer to try to get it out, not a F'ing chance, we ended up bending the subframe. Had to go to the scrapyard & get a full front subframe & suspension of of one in there to get it through the test. This was a car that was less than 10 years old, young uns of today don't know they're born with cars these days.



I changed the front springs on a MK3 Corrina.

Haynes, undo top shock bolt and slide out.
About 3hrs with a oxy torch and hammer.

Rear bushes similar.

Starter motor on a V6 Scimatar 
Rear bumpers on a Sherpa van


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## Phaeton (11 Apr 2020)

Yesterday afternoon & today I've been re-wiring the rear clamshell of the GTM, soldered & heatshrunk joints where needed, all wrapped up, didn't have any wrapping tape so just used insulation tape, then I thought Mmmm maybe I should have tested it all before I wrapped it up. But luckily the 1 fault was a bulb not making a good connection in the holder. Just need a couple of 1" grommets & a couple of 1.5" grommets & some more fixings to hold the wires in place.


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## simon the viking (13 Apr 2020)

I changed a thermostat once.. (I do more complicated stuff) then girlfriend wanted to go somewhere quite quickly... I said don't worry it's only 3 bolts won't be a tick.... car didn't move for a week while I located a replacement thermostat housing... snapped a bolt in the alloy...

Another time Car over heated (old mgb)... I put a blanket over the rad cap and turned slowly... the cap hit the garage roof... the blanket blew out my hand and I was lucky the scolding didn't put me in hospital... the irony was... I did know better.. I just thought I would be quicker than the super heated steam....


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## Richard A Thackeray (15 Apr 2020)

Cavalol said:


> It's hardly cutting edge mechanical genius, but after finally clearing all the spares out of the back of the Lada, I got the rear seats back up. Noticed the steering wheel was a bit loose, too, plus the passenger and driver seats, so tightened them up.
> 
> View attachment 513955



I like that!!!!


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## Richard A Thackeray (15 Apr 2020)

Rear-wiper not working on my Octavia estate
(as it's not being for a while)

Eventually had a look at it
For the past few days, the splined(?) shaft on the motor has been soaked in penetrating oil, in an attempt to remove the wiper arm
No such luck, I know 'wiper arm pullers' are available

I took the interior trim off, taking several finger-nails too!!









No voltage registering at the multipin plug, _yes, with the lid closed, _& from inside the car (so no 'cut-out' operating)

So..... could it really be my previous diagnosis of a fractured wire, as it was working (last summer) on really hot days


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## cosmicbike (15 Apr 2020)

Volvo again. Adjusted the detent plate which will hopefully assist with the 1st and reverse gear selection. Also fitted a gear knob which is nice. 
In other news, no way I'm going to get the gearbox fill plug out. When the current crisis has calmed I'll take it to my local and see if they can do it on the ramps.
Also broke out the MIG welder to have a bit of practice. It's been 20+ years since I last welded, and I've never used gasless MIG before. I think I need more practice...
Capri, I had a new parcel shelf delivered, pattern part of course, so started removing the fittings from the destroyed original.


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## Adam4868 (16 Apr 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Volvo again. Adjusted the detent plate which will hopefully assist with the 1st and reverse gear selection. Also fitted a gear knob which is nice.
> In other news, no way I'm going to get the gearbox fill plug out. When the current crisis has calmed I'll take it to my local and see if they can do it on the ramps.
> Also broke out the MIG welder to have a bit of practice. It's been 20+ years since I last welded, and I've never used gasless MIG before. I think I need more practice...
> Capri, I had a new parcel shelf delivered, pattern part of course, so started removing the fittings from the destroyed original.


Gasless....not that I've actually done that much but I've had a go with gasless.Remember you weld similar to arc/stick and drag the weld the opposite of gas mig which you push.
I'm sure you know what your doing anyway !


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## keithmac (16 Apr 2020)

If there's slag you drag!.

I've had good results with gasless, you just have to take your time.

Seen a bloke using gasless wire WITH gas and he did some stunning welds with that combo.


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## Adam4868 (16 Apr 2020)

Ok boring I know...got my arc welder out yesterday and messed about.Made a burner out of a old gas bottle and bits and pieces.Just got to get a bit of pipe for a chimney.
For neat I like oxy/acet welding or Tig.
For ease and strength if go arc
Mig wasn't around as much when I was young so I sort of missed it out.Id sometimes use it at a garage for a bit of sheetmetal/sills but I never really like it.Seems temperamental to me ! Or I'm just sh1te at it probally.


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## keithmac (16 Apr 2020)

I like acetylene welding and brazing but it's an expensive way of doing it at home with the bottles!.


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## Adam4868 (16 Apr 2020)

keithmac said:


> I like acetylene welding and brazing but it's an expensive way of doing it at home with the bottles!.


Yea I know,only got a arc.It does for what I want.its mostly diy stuff,made some drive gates etc.
Here my latest diy/lockdown project.Needs the chimney putting on.Smoke all over last night to the horror of my partner !


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## cosmicbike (16 Apr 2020)

Most of my training was arc and acetylene. I did a week or so on MIG with gas, also tried aluminium TIG welding, not good at that. Most of what I'll be doing is car body panels, so 0.9mm - 1.2mm thick steel. Not challenging at all.....


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## fossyant (16 Apr 2020)

I've got 2 Lemforder anti-roll bar drop links coming for MrsF's car. In anticipation of them being a bugger to remove (been on 7 years) I've also ordered a butane torch, so could even use it in cooking. If that's successful in helping ease the bolts, might try that on my back box bolts, and save myself a small fortune. I've got a good set of 1/2" drive sockets and a breaker bar.


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## Drago (16 Apr 2020)

I'm pretty good with the spanners, if I say so myself, but could never get the hang of welding. That's the one job i've left to blokes called Brian, who smoke liquorice paper roll ups.


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## cosmicbike (16 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> I'm pretty good with the spanners, if I say so myself, but could never get the hang of welding. That's the one job i've left to blokes called Brian, who smoke liquorice paper roll ups.


Funny you mention that, I used to work with one of those Brians. Drove a Morris Traveller which always had a washing machine in the back.


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## Phaeton (16 Apr 2020)

fossyant said:


> I've got 2 Lemforder anti-roll bar drop links coming for MrsF's car. In anticipation of them being a bugger to remove (been on 7 years)


My rule on droplinks is try once, if that fails then out comes the angry grinder.


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## fossyant (16 Apr 2020)

Phaeton said:


> My rule on droplinks is try once, if that fails then out comes the angry grinder.



I've got an angry grinder.  Might need a new disc though, but it did cut through my car's drop link like butter (the thread was too long and rubbed on a suspension component.


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## Richard A Thackeray (18 Apr 2020)

@Cavalol 

More pictures please, maybe in one of the classic car threads?


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## screenman (18 Apr 2020)

I am missing PDR, may have to knock a few dents in one of the cars just for fun.


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## Phaeton (18 Apr 2020)

screenman said:


> I am missing PDR, may have to knock a few dents in one of the cars just for fun.


I can drop my '72 Beetle off with you if you are wanting something to do


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## Phaeton (18 Apr 2020)

Finished work yesterday afternoon & didn't feel like the ride I was going to do, so decided I'd put off not building the VVC (Variable Valve Camshaft) cylinder head long enough, so out into the garage to have a go, spent ages trying to get it to put one end together only to find I was trying the wrong end  then had enough walked away & then came back to it this morning.

So you start with






Then you have to build it up to






Then you have to try to fit it onto this shaft & keeping the variable cogs in line






Then eventually when you have it built up it looks like






However then you have to do it all again at the other end, but this time keeping the timing fixed so that when it's put together both ends work together. Took about 6 hours in the end


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## keithmac (20 Apr 2020)

Spent all afternoon under the Kuga looking for an oil leak.

Turns out it's coming from the coupler between gearbox and Power Transfer Unit (awd transfer box).

12 til 8 yesterday taking it to bits and same again today IF I can fix it.

Rhs driveshaft is an odd affair, goes through the hollow shaft of the PTU, through the hollow coupler and into the gearbox.

Sods law wife got called into work this morning as well..


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## keithmac (22 Apr 2020)

Well, brought all my fine pitch tools home to get to the top Transfer Case bolt an couldn't get in with any of them.

About to chuck the towel in I had a look through my random spanner drawer for inspiration. Baring in mind I've never used the bent spanners ever I found the perfect tool!.

Needless to say this is now my favourite drawer in the tool box!.

Cheapo 13mm spanner saves the day!.

Absolute ball ache working on this Mk2 Kuga Powershift, hands down the worst car I've ever bought..


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## Electric_Andy (22 Apr 2020)

Blimey, those spanners have been in the sun too long. Just goes to show, some tools are worth keeping and only come in handy once in a blue moon. But you can never have too many tools


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## Drago (22 Apr 2020)

Fitted a set of OE Volvo roof rails to my XC90. Mine is the R Design, the supposedly 'sporty' version, so the rails were not fitted at the factory, presumably in order to maintain a sleek and racy look...as if a 2.25 tonne Swedish brick would ever look sleek and racy.

Anyhoo, I'd been watching them on eBay, 80 to 100 sheets, so I was on the verge of not bothering when I spotted a set for £30 including postage. Job done. They were weighty old things so by the time he'd paid the postage there couldn't have been much profit in it. I now have something to clamp my roof bars and bike rack too. A good clean and a wipe with clear wax and they look like new, were on in less than 20 minutes.


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## fossyant (22 Apr 2020)

Front Links fitted a couple of days ago - the nuts were not going to move so a blast with the 'torch' and they came off no issues. Somewhat tight in the wheel arch, so did use an allen key and 18mm cone spanner to tighten up the new links, then got the breaker bar on them to nip up tight.

Whilst the wheels were off, coated the suspension component's in anti-rust treatment - all rather tidy under there now.


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## fossyant (22 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> Fitted a set of OE Volvo roof rails to my XC90. Mine is the R Design, the supposedly 'sporty' version, so the rails were not fitted at the factory, presumably in order to maintain a sleek and racy look...as if a 2.25 tonne Swedish brick would ever look sleek and racy.
> 
> Anyhoo, I'd been watching them on eBay, 80 to 100 sheets, so I was on the verge of not bothering when I spotted a set for £30 including postage. Job done. They were weighty old things so by the time he'd paid the postage there couldn't have been much profit in it. I now have something to clamp my roof bars and bike rack too. A good clean and a wipe with clear wax and they look like new, were on in less than 20 minutes.
> 
> View attachment 516980



Great price. When I see Qashqai's without them, they don't half look nekkid. The lower models didn't get roof bars.


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## smokeysmoo (22 Apr 2020)

Noticed one of the roof bar mounting point covers had vanished off the C'eed yesterday, not something I've ever had happen on any car so don't know if a scrote has had it away or it's just come loose and flown off?






Anyway whilst having a mooch last night I was put onto THIS eBay seller who does 3D printed parts.

Had a look and lo and behold he's got them for my motor  

It doesn't 100% match the original, but it's a 2012 Kia C'eed not a show car, and for £2.34, (inc. extra 15p discount at checkout for some reason), I'm happy to give it a whirl


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## screenman (22 Apr 2020)

Just machined polished the car and now applying paint sealant, just waiting for it to dry as I type this.


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## BianchiVirgin (22 Apr 2020)

Checked the XC60 pads and disks all round. Not bad. Will need rears soon and rear tyres. Definitely all before MOT in November.


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## Levo-Lon (25 Apr 2020)

We have roof rails on the new Kia xceed... however there's nowhere to put a ladder

I don't do roof storage but they look good for some eason


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## Levo-Lon (25 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> Fitted a set of OE Volvo roof rails to my XC90. Mine is the R Design, the supposedly 'sporty' version, so the rails were not fitted at the factory, presumably in order to maintain a sleek and racy look...as if a 2.25 tonne Swedish brick would ever look sleek and racy.
> 
> Anyhoo, I'd been watching them on eBay, 80 to 100 sheets, so I was on the verge of not bothering when I spotted a set for £30 including postage. Job done. They were weighty old things so by the time he'd paid the postage there couldn't have been much profit in it. I now have something to clamp my roof bars and bike rack too. A good clean and a wipe with clear wax and they look like new, were on in less than 20 minutes.
> 
> View attachment 516980





Are they really 2.5 tonne!! @Drago 
Big I know but I thought maybe 1.5 tops.. seriously solid car


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## Drago (25 Apr 2020)

Aye ladies, the XC90 is, to within a few fathoms, 2 and a quarter tonnes. No one in the UK has hever died while travelling in one, although they've probably flattened thousands of people on the outside...


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## BianchiVirgin (25 Apr 2020)

Even the XC70 is close to 1.9t.


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## Drago (25 Apr 2020)

Indeed. They're weighty old lumps. Not like these lightweight econoboxes that poor people drive.


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## Adam4868 (25 Apr 2020)

Drago said:


> Aye ladies, the XC90 is, to within a few fathoms, 2 and a quarter tonnes. No one in the UK has hever died while travelling in one, although they've probably flattened thousands of people on the outside...


2 and quarter tonnes pah ! Lightweight....
https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/new-£450000-volvo-xc90-armoured-weighs-45-tonnes


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## screenman (25 Apr 2020)

Levo-Lon said:


> We have roof rails on the new Kia xceed... however there's nowhere to put a ladder
> 
> I don't do roof storage but they look good for some eason



The cross members are extra, got mine which I have used on 3 cars now for £25 in Lidl a while back.


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## Richard A Thackeray (2 May 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Rear-wiper not working on my Octavia estate
> (as it's not being for a while)
> 
> Eventually had a look at it
> ...



Decided to chance it, & ordered a new wiper-motor, and wiper-arm on Wednesday when I got home from work
So, order not processed till Thurs AM

Wiper-motor arrived this AM!

Not going to do anything until arm arrives though, as I'll have to cut the old one off wth the Dremel


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## Phaeton (2 May 2020)

Do I need new blades?


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## cosmicbike (2 May 2020)

An afternoon tinkering with the Volvo 240, still seeking to resolve rough running. Mass Air Flow Meter tested OK, maybe an issue with the Knock Sensor. More fiddling another time as I soon tire of probing around on 'modern' systems.
I moved on to the Capri, now SORN'd, and stripped all the front end off, bumper, headlights and so forth, in preparation for the wing repairs.


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## BianchiVirgin (2 May 2020)

Had a poke at the XC70 today as I noticed a tiny drip from the front end over the last few months under offside radiator area. I've been watching it for a while. So, bumper off and a few other bits. Looks like there's a small leak where the offside header is clamped/ bonded to the core. Rather than try pulling it out I got a bottle of K-Seal additive. Worth a punt. After reassembly a test run suggests leak is gone but only time will tell.


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## Bonefish Blues (2 May 2020)

I got the man to do my diy today 

The presale service invoice showed under £40 for oil, and as the engine was rather rattly it didn't take S Holmes esq to work out that the requisite 0w30 A5/B5 wasn't in there...

One trip to National Tyres later (actually a lot later by the time they got the oil in) and £55 lighter, incl filter, and all's much, much smoother. Remarkable value. Interestingly they source the oil from Russia's largest oil company, whose name escapes me.


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## Phaeton (3 May 2020)

Think it's been mentioned before maybe on another thread/forum about the disparity of oil prices, why when the producers are having to pay companies to buy their crude oil is processed engine oil still so expensive, it used to be a cheap commodity, now it's just ridiculous.


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## Drago (3 May 2020)

In some US states they're actually _paying customers _to take the fuel away because that's cheaper than storing it. Canny rednecks by the thousand are ordering huge home storage tanks to stock up while the going is good. I suspect the climate will take a good kicking as a result!


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## Bonefish Blues (3 May 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Think it's been mentioned before maybe on another thread/forum about the disparity of oil prices, why when the producers are having to pay companies to buy their crude oil is processed engine oil still so expensive, it used to be a cheap commodity, now it's just ridiculous.


Ow30's quite (well, very) an expensive oil if it has a Castrol or Shell brand on, and is specced for Volvo. Same oil specced for Ford (_exact _same spec) who owned Volvo at the time my car was made = much cheaper. 

Ruskioilski from former comrades, supplied and fitted, and disposed of etc, and the windscreen wash topped up, and the battery tested = as cheap as doing it myself.

No brainski


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## Bonefish Blues (3 May 2020)

Drago said:


> In some US states they're actually _paying customers _to take the fuel away because that's cheaper than storing it. Canny rednecks by the thousand are ordering huge home storage tanks to stock up while the going is good. I suspect the climate will take a good kicking as a result!


Sadly, Bubba Holmes, who stored his in his bath won't be doing that any more. 

Still, as his mom said, saved on the cree-may-shun


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## Phaeton (3 May 2020)

Bonefish Blues said:


> Ow30's quite (well, very) an expensive oil if it has a Castrol or Shell brand on, and is specced for Volvo. Same oil specced for Ford (_exact _same spec) who owned Volvo at the time my car was made = much cheaper.


I had the Citroen/Ford/Volvo diesel engined C30 that had to have the 'special' oil otherwise it would cause isse, but it still doesn't explain why the price of processed oil hasn't fallen in line with crude, unless I'm missing the obvious chemical link that processed doesn't come from crude.


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## Phaeton (3 May 2020)

Some people should not be allowed near spanners what a bodge this is & the previous owner paid for this professional work. Brand new floor pans drilled & then brackets welded FFS


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## fossyant (3 May 2020)

Moved on to 'rust treating' the rear suspension on Mrs F's car. All looks very tidy and new now.


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## keithmac (3 May 2020)

Well the Kuga has been oil tight for 2 weeks now so I'm calling that fixed!.

Rotated wheels today, 3.5mm tread on fronts and 4.8 on backs so swapped them round (£150 a corner for new boots so not this year!).

Fitted a new coolant header tank cap and that has solved a minor coolant loss issue so things are looking up!.


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## Bonefish Blues (3 May 2020)

keithmac said:


> Rotated wheels today, 3.5mm tread on fronts and 4.8 on backs so swapped them round (*£150 a corner *for new boots so not this year!).


Pardon?!

What on earth does it wear?


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## cosmicbike (3 May 2020)

Bonefish Blues said:


> Pardon?!
> 
> What on earth does it wear?




UGGs at that price Even my van tyres aren't that dear


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## keithmac (3 May 2020)

18 Inch Continental Sport Contact 5 SUV's on at the moment. The are a great tyre so will be getting the same.

Will be having a good shop around when the time comes!.


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## cosmicbike (3 May 2020)

An hour playing with the Capri. Flap disc in the grinder to cut the paint back to good metal. It could have been worse...




Pretty standard for a 30+ year old Ford


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## keithmac (3 May 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> An hour playing with the Capri. Flap disc in the grinder to cut the paint back to good metal. It could have been worse...
> View attachment 519702
> 
> Pretty standard for a 30+ year old Ford



Watched a Wheeler Dealers with a Capri, are the wings welded on?.

What's the plan, weld in some new sections?.


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## gbb (3 May 2020)

Re the apparent disparity in current crude price vs engine oil...engine oil was in all probability manufactured months ago....when oil prices were actually really quite high.
You have the same at the pumps, fuel prices have dropped but as no one is buying at the moment, tanks are sitting for longer, at the price paid weeks ago. I keep waiting for our local garage to refill, then hopefully the price per litre will fall again. It's been a longish wait so far.


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## Phaeton (3 May 2020)

gbb said:


> Re the apparent disparity in current crude price vs engine oil...engine oil was in all probability manufactured months ago....when oil prices were actually really quite high.
> You have the same at the pumps, fuel prices have dropped but as no one is buying at the moment, tanks are sitting for longer, at the price paid weeks ago. I keep waiting for our local garage to refill, then hopefully the price per litre will fall again. It's been a longish wait so far.


Probably, but I'm sure they will have another excuse in a couple of months when logically all the already processed oil has all gone,


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## Bonefish Blues (3 May 2020)

gbb said:


> Re the apparent disparity in current crude price vs engine oil...engine oil was in all probability manufactured months ago....when oil prices were actually really quite high.
> You have the same at the pumps, fuel prices have dropped but as no one is buying at the moment, tanks are sitting for longer, at the price paid weeks ago. I keep waiting for our local garage to refill, then hopefully the price per litre will fall again. It's been a longish wait so far.


OTOH domestic heating oil has plummeted. Just ordered 1000 litres at 17.5ppl - it was higher than that when we moved here in 2007, and has dropped by about 30ppl in 8 weeks...


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## Phaeton (3 May 2020)

Bonefish Blues said:


> OTOH domestic heating oil has plummeted. Just ordered 1000 litres at 17.5ppl - it was higher than that when we moved here in 2007, and has dropped by about 30ppl in 8 weeks...


I'll let my sister know is this a National company you're buying from?


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## Bonefish Blues (3 May 2020)

Phaeton said:


> I'll let my sister know is this a National company you're buying from?


We use a local buying group to do the legwork. Plenty around I think


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## gbb (3 May 2020)

Not mine, but an interesting story. 
Neighbour has a 2008 Mercedes Vito ? van, hes a self employed builder. Its a workhorse and has over 300k miles on it i think but it goes well.
In the last year he replaced the turbo (quite expensive), then the Injectors went (very expensive) , then the water pump, so he did that and the cam belt I think...this weekend, the clutch went, so a new clutch, slave cylinder and flywheel fitted.
Its cost him a packet, pushing £1000 each time..but, my SIL, also a friend of theirs is a mechanic and used to work in an ambulance service and repair company and says the mechanics in the Vito are much the same as used in a lot of ambulances and now all that's done, it should be good for 600k miles.

While making his decision what to do, he saw what he could get for it ...a mere £600. 
His reckoning, while its cost him, it is a strong van and hed have brought a van for what ? £3000...and maybe had all the same problems again.

Respect due, he did all the work himself.


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## cosmicbike (3 May 2020)

keithmac said:


> Watched a Wheeler Dealers with a Capri, are the wings welded on?.
> 
> What's the plan, weld in some new sections?.



They are indeed, spot welded along the wing rails, a small amount around the headlight bulb, and 3 small runs of weld along the A post. Also 3 bolts to the valance, though 2 of those are well and truly gone.
I have a pair of pattern wings, but given how badly I expect them to fit I thing I'll use them to make repair sections, the rest of the wing is largely solid so I hope to make that option work. I'll remove it after tacking repairs as the sill ends are gone also and will need repair. Might take a while, especially as the passenger wing is the same. I do have a pretty decent spare passenger wing from an '83 2.8i which I can use if I really have to..


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## Drago (3 May 2020)

Bonefish Blues said:


> Pardon?!
> 
> What on earth does it wear?


I've 255 section 19's on the Volvo. I'd be quite happy if mine were only 150 sheets apiece. Mrs D's car is shod with 22's and I'm too frightened to even look on Black circle's website 

I always keep the best tyres on the back like the police car workshops do - understeer is annoying but rarely fatal, whereas oversteer is quite often fatal to car, driver or both.


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## keithmac (4 May 2020)

Drago said:


> I've 255 section 19's on the Volvo. I'd be quite happy if mine were only 150 sheets apiece. Mrs D's car is shod with 22's and I'm too frightened to even look on Black circle's website
> 
> I always keep the best tyres on the back like the police car workshops do - understeer is annoying but rarely fatal, whereas oversteer is quite often fatal to car, driver or both.



There's not enough difference in ours to cause handling issues, plus it's got Intelligent AWD/ torque vectoring and stability control etc to get you out of the brown stuff.

To be fair it's only me that gives it a boot full anyway (surprisingly nimble for what it is).

Ours is 2250kg fully loaded and handles it very well.


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## keithmac (4 May 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> They are indeed, spot welded along the wing rails, a small amount around the headlight bulb, and 3 small runs of weld along the A post. Also 3 bolts to the valance, though 2 of those are well and truly gone.
> I have a pair of pattern wings, but given how badly I expect them to fit I thing I'll use them to make repair sections, the rest of the wing is largely solid so I hope to make that option work. I'll remove it after tacking repairs as the sill ends are gone also and will need repair. Might take a while, especially as the passenger wing is the same. I do have a pretty decent spare passenger wing from an '83 2.8i which I can use if I really have to..



Might be worth offering them up if you're taking the original ones off anyway?. From what I remember Edd got them fitted fine but his painting let him down in the end (lacquer reacted with the paint?).


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## cosmicbike (4 May 2020)

keithmac said:


> Might be worth offering them up if you're taking the original ones off anyway?. From what I remember Edd got them fitted fine but his painting let him down in the end (lacquer reacted with the paint?).


Rock and a hard place. I was going to leave the one pictured in place at tack the repair sections in before I remove it, which would of course render the pattern wing useless. I suppose if I cut the wing off 'as is' and try the pattern part then I can always tack the wing back on.


----------



## keithmac (8 May 2020)

Up nice and early this morning.

Kuga wheels were looking a right state (noticed last week) so for a grand total of £0 I had a go at tarting them up.

Off and clean with 50% TFR mix first being caarful to not let it dry!, then some GT85 and plenty of time with some grey Scotchbrite pads on the diamond cut faces.

Came up a treat!.

Had a bit of TFR left in the sprayer and some water left in our Nomad portable pressure washer (excellent bit of kit) so treated the GTECH to it's yearly clean as well.

BBQ and beers this afternoon!.


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## cosmicbike (16 May 2020)

Rather a messy day on the Capri yesterday. Most of the dash stripped out so I could access the upper door mounting bolts, then remove the drivers door. I've managed to grind off/cold chisel all the weld runs, just the spots to go now. Also found a new hole where there shouldn't be one, tin worm has been eating again


----------



## Gunk (16 May 2020)

Which model is it?


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## cosmicbike (16 May 2020)

Gunk said:


> Which model is it?



1.6 Laser, September 1986.


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## Gunk (16 May 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> 1.6 Laser, September 1986.



I got all excited, I thought it was a 3.0S. I owned one back in the early ‘80’s


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## cosmicbike (16 May 2020)

Gunk said:


> I got all excited, I thought it was a 3.0S. I owned one back in the early ‘80’s



No danger of me affording one of those nowadays, silly money they are. 12 years ago I turned down a Mk1 3.0 GXL for £1300, should have just bought it and left in the garage, better return than most things.


----------



## rustyroger (17 May 2020)

One easy and one difficult and messy job for my Chrysler Fifth Avenue this weekend. The easy job was to replace a worn out bush on the wiper linkage, a ten minute job. 
The other was to remove the transmission dipstick tube to replace the leaking seal. I had to get the car in the air and get under where it was oily and dripping. Getting the tube out was fairly simple, the tricky bit was getting it back without damaging the new seal, the messy part was cleaning all the oily gunk off everything.
However I only had to buy the bush and seal, not a complete assembly as is so often the case on modern cars. 

Roger.


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## Richard A Thackeray (21 May 2020)

*Oddity?*

Daughters car had refused to start this AM, all it would do was unlock & click all its solenoids at me
Went out again, this evening, & it wouldn't even unlock, so we pushed it out of the garage, & jump-started it from my Octavia

Thus, I went for a trip in it, to try and charge it a bit
Up the M62, to Whitely Bridge

En-route, all the dials kept going to zero, staying there a while & coming back to correct readings
The 'smart(?) display' kept showing 'check air-bags', check tyre pressure system', 'check anti-theft'
The radio wouldn't come on at all

At the moment, I'm just presuming that the very low voltage upset a few systems, & that they will stabilise after a few 'reboots' (stop/start/lock/unlock cycles)

Is that a reasonable hypothesis?


Vauxhall Adam 1.4 petrol
(2014)


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## Richard A Thackeray (21 May 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> *Oddity?*
> 
> Daughters car had refused to start this AM, all it would do was unlock & click all its solenoids at me
> Went out again, this evening, & it wouldn't even unlock, so we pushed it out of the garage, & jump-started it from my Octavia
> ...



Started fine, 'first twist' a while ago
Repeated last nights route (M62 far quieter, once east of A1)
All dials okay, no 'warning messages' on display
Radio worked fine too

So, it did need a 'reboot'?


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## keithmac (21 May 2020)

I'd personally have battery on charge for a day, takes a while to properly condition a battery.


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## Drago (21 May 2020)

As above. I'd charge it properly. At 6 years old its liable to be nearing the end of its life (the battery, not the Adam) so it might be time for a new 'un anyway.


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## JhnBssll (21 May 2020)

I've been making some changes to my new (to me) Passat estate over the past few months. The car is a replacement for the one that VW kindly ruined whilst undertaking some warranty repairs and since this particular model is fairly hard to come by I accepted a model without some of the toys I would have ideally wanted. Fortunately VW group cars are relatively easy to muck about with and there's plenty of info online regarding retrofitting of components and systems 

First to be fitted was a reversing camera, which pops it's little head out from under the VW badge when you put it in reverse  Pretty nifty 








This is an OEM camera but VW aren't kind enough to put cables in unless the items are specced so I had to run the new loom from the boot lid to the glovebox and connect it all up to the CAN data bus, then code the new camera module in to both the park assist module and the infotainment module ...








Spurred on by my success, I bought the latest and greatest infotainment module and screen, as well as a virtual cockpit speedo unit, both second hand on ebay...






These were a bit more of a pig to fit, with some of the coding being out of my depth. I fitted the stereo but had the speedo coded for me as its linked to the immobiliser - it needs to be coded online whilst connected to VW servers with expensive software I don't own  Once the keys were coded I finished it off at home and got it all up and running together...






Pleased with that!

Next jobs is retrofitting the front camera unit, which will enable lane assist and various other features  Needs a new windscreen so saving my pennies at the moment. but I have the camera module and loom ready to go, so I'll probably run the cables in the near future and poke it all out of the way until I've got the new screen fitted then make the final connections and coding.






I've also just received the latest park assist module and sensors which will mean the car parks itself, as well as the side assist radar modules which warn when there's something in the blind spot and make the car actively counter steer if you try and side swipe something 

I would like to retrofit the electric tailgate at some point too but it's expensive, so I'll wait and see what turns up in the local scrap yard 

It's also lowered slightly and remapped  4 wheel drive, 295bhp and 430ft lbf but still averages 50mpg and is super comfy on long journeys, all rather silly really


----------



## Gunk (21 May 2020)




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## Drago (21 May 2020)

That's not really my thing, but by God that's an impressive piece of car DIY.


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## cosmicbike (21 May 2020)

@JhnBssll that's quite a lot of playing with CANBUS. My T5.1 I have gone as far as the reversing camera and new head unit, neither required code changing. Oddly enough fitting the towbar did, so I had Westfalia do that for me. I gather lots of little features are simply turned off within the system depending on vehicle spec, I know some VW van boys who have activated things like dial sweep, window behaviour etc.


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## JhnBssll (21 May 2020)

Its all good fun tinkering with the code, but not without its dangers... when I first plugged in the new speedo cluster (a day after everything locked down and the garages closed) it deleted the long code from the ABS module  Of course I hadn't backed it up, and its unique to every vehicle as some of the code is calculated from the VIN, so I had to spend about 10 hours rewriting a 30 byte hexadecimal code piecing info together from various forums to clear the 52 error codes i had cleverly created  I got it driveable again and had the original code reinstated when the speedo was online coded. Amazingly I'd only got 9 bits of the 30 byte code wrong, pretty happy with that 

My first car was a '78 Triump Spitfire 1500 which I rebuilt various parts of including the suspension and gearbox. I then moved on to a '96 Honda Prelude VTEC which I slowly transformed in to a track car which I ran for about 12 years before finally selling on about 3 years ago. I rebuilt the whole thing several times over but it was beginning to get claimed by the rust gods 

Wife has a Golf R so if i fancy a spin in something quick I take that out now


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## Levo-Lon (22 May 2020)

I have just one thing to say @JhnBssll ...fooookinhellllll 

Sounds like your preparing the car for a Pluto trip


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## JhnBssll (22 May 2020)

Levo-Lon said:


> I have just one thing to say @JhnBssll ...fooookinhellllll
> 
> Sounds like your preparing the car for a Pluto trip



That will require the life support system retrofit, as well as the optional rocket motors. I believe they're prohibitively expensive 

It's all good fun though and I'm learning as I go - as with most things I do, it's more about the journey than the destination. For example I don't use the reversing camera, I'm much happier using the mirrors


----------



## Electric_Andy (22 May 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> I've been making some changes to my new (to me) Passat estate over the past few months. The car is a replacement for the one that VW kindly ruined whilst undertaking some warranty repairs and since this particular model is fairly hard to come by I accepted a model without some of the toys I would have ideally wanted. Fortunately VW group cars are relatively easy to muck about with and there's plenty of info online regarding retrofitting of components and systems
> 
> First to be fitted was a reversing camera, which pops it's little head out from under the VW badge when you put it in reverse  Pretty nifty
> 
> ...


That looks really smart. What do the orange markers in Pic2 tell you? Or is that a reflection?


----------



## Electric_Andy (22 May 2020)

Today I will have one more go at getting my Pioneer head unit to work. Over the last 18 months it occasinoally turns itself off randomly. Sometimes it turns back on when I wiggle the head unit. So I've come to the conclusion that it's the pins on the removable face, that make contact with the head unit, which are obviously not making contact as they should. I'm going to try a few things like gently prying the pins out so they are more proud. If that doesn't work I'll get a new head unit.


----------



## JhnBssll (22 May 2020)

Electric_Andy said:


> That looks really smart. What do the orange markers in Pic2 tell you? Or is that a reflection?



The camera module gets steering angle data from the steering module so the orange lines move as you steer to guide you. Had to calibrate the camera module for this to work properly, it needs to know the cars wheelbase, camera height, camera angle etc to correctly calculate the trajectory lines


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## Electric_Andy (22 May 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> The camera module gets steering angle data from the steering module so the orange lines move as you steer to guide you. Had to calibrate the camera module for this to work properly, it needs to know the cars wheelbase, camera height, camera angle etc to correctly calculate the trajectory lines


Wow. Awesome tech, and I commend you for being able to understand it. As you might have guessed, I've not driven a car with anywhere near this much technology


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## Drago (22 May 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> That will require the life support system retrofit, as well as the optional rocket motors. I believe they're prohibitively expensive
> 
> It's all good fun though and I'm learning as I go - as with most things I do, it's more about the journey than the destination. For example I don't use the reversing camera, I'm much happier using the mirrors


Even for someone my height the reversing camera is a godsend in the XC90. Otherwise, it'd by like reversing a Sherman tank blindfolded. The screen rises out the top of the dash, which i quite like. Mr's D's has the big touchscreen, and it's very user friendly and all that but looks awful covered in covid-19 prints.


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## screenman (22 May 2020)

Just one of the dents from this morning no paint or filler, I had packed the tools away before I remembered the after photo.


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## keithmac (22 May 2020)

screenman said:


> Just one of the dents from this morning no paint or filler, I had packed the tools away before I remembered the after photo.
> View attachment 524113
> View attachment 524114



Amazing how you can get it that flat again, great skill involved there.


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## cosmicbike (22 May 2020)

Had the back end of the Volvo 240 up on stands yesterday to check the clutch. It requires quite a bit of force to get into any gear when stationary with engine running, and reverse is terrible. Stationary is no problem, so I thought it might be dragging. Sure enough, rear wheels hanging in free air, engine running, clutch down any movement to a gear spins the wheels up. Looks like new clutch then, happy days. Defo a driveway job with ramps, so it's on the list of to do's. 
Found another hole in the exhaust at the same time, so that got a Holts bandage this evening, making a total of 3 big patches now repaired. Needs a new system from Cat back really, but that's £102 I could do without spending at the moment.


----------



## keithmac (22 May 2020)

Drago said:


> Even for someone my height the reversing camera is a godsend in the XC90. Otherwise, it'd by like reversing a Sherman tank blindfolded. The screen rises out the top of the dash, which i quite like. Mr's D's has the big touchscreen, and it's very user friendly and all that but looks awful covered in covid-19 prints.



I'd discounted the XC90 as being too big for us but seen a few about recently and taken a bit of a liking to them now..


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## Drago (23 May 2020)

You need to try one Mr Keith. More comfortable than you humanly thought possible, they shrug bad weather contemptuously aside, and you quickly start to dig the whole languid, laid back nature of the car.


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## gbb (23 May 2020)

Drago said:


> You need to try one Mr Keith. More comfortable than you humanly thought possible, they shrug bad weather contemptuously aside, and you quickly start to dig the whole languid, laid back nature of the car.


It's not my kind of car personally, too big, probably too expensive to maintain properly (again, for me personally) but the description sounds perfect for me, I like a laid back, relaxed driving style. Vauxhalls seem to give me that at the price I'm willing to pay. I had a Lancia years ago, hated it, constant gear shifts, too sporty, similarly I had a 2007 Ford Focus, hated that with a vengeance, horrible suspension, engine, just the whole package didnt suit me. Ironically, the Focus put me off a Volvo V40 D2 I was offered as an ex company car at a reasonable price, possibly a mistake but being based on the same platform made me reluctant to consider it.


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## Drago (23 May 2020)

I must admit, I don't mind Poxhauls. Cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, cheap parts, easy to work on, two a penny, and many of them are at least still assembled in the UK. When I was in the job the Corsas and Ashtrays were much more tolerant of harsh treatment than the festers and Fucus, which were a little fragile for that environment. Hard plastics and thick un-sexy seat material came into its own with body armour, boots and equipment being banged and dragged across it dozens of times daily. Not quite as sharp to drive as the Fords, but a little more stable and predictable at the limit as a result so I preferred them.

We had one old Model G astra 1.7 and some handsome devil turned up the fuelling on the mechanical pump, and it went like a missile. It became known as the Tarmac Terrorist and refused to die despite being first pick of anyone coming on duty, and lived well beyond its programmed replacement date to become the oldest car on the fleet by some margin. KX53OHC, where are you now?


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## dave r (23 May 2020)

Drago said:


> We had one old Model G astra 1.7 and some handsome devil turned up the fuelling on the mechanical pump, and it went like a missile. It became known as the Tarmac Terrorist and refused to die despite being first pick of anyone coming on duty, and lived well beyond its programmed replacement date to become the oldest car on the fleet by some margin. KX53OHC, where are you now?



Passed its MOT in September 2016 with 150000 on the clock and thats it.

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/


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## oldwheels (23 May 2020)

I used to do a lot of work on cars but now all I am willing to do is turn the key to start and expect it to go as it should. The local garage looks after everything else.
My assistant at one time drove appalling old bangers. He had a Standard 8 which had virtually no brakes and in emergency he rammed it into reverse. Broken half shaft and phoned me for a tow. We stopped at a scrapyard for another one and this happened so often we could change one in minutes with our eyes shut.
When it finally failed he got another scrapper but eventually ended up with a retired hearse. You could not make it up.


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## Drago (23 May 2020)

screenman said:


> Just one of the dents from this morning no paint or filler, I had packed the tools away before I remembered the after photo.
> View attachment 524113
> View attachment 524114


Amazing, a fantastic skill.


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## screenman (23 May 2020)

Drago said:


> Amazing, a fantastic skill.



Thanks, every job like that one is a challenge but very satisfying at the same time, certainly saves the customers a lot of money as well. I did not time it but I am guessing at an hours work. I seldom take before and after photo's and people keep telling me that I should.


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## BianchiVirgin (23 May 2020)

Timing belt and aux belts fitted to the XC70. Don't know why I bothered. All the old parts in the timing kit looked like they were fitted last year and not in early '09. Anyway, a bit of a faff but it's done. 

Issue with ac though so it's still on axle stands. AC man is coming on Monday. The clutch on the compressor is dying and dragging the pulley, overheating and this cause the stretch belt to fail. And an awkward SOB it is to replace. Hope there's no leak either  but I suspect the condenser might be leaking and that's one PITA job I could do without, apart from the expense. 

Ah well, seeing as I made redundant last Tues I've a bit of spare time till I get something else.


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## Drago (23 May 2020)

screenman said:


> Thanks, every job like that one is a challenge but very satisfying at the same time, certainly saves the customers a lot of money as well. I did not time it but I am guessing at an hours work. I seldom take before and after photo's and people keep telling me that I should.


Well, if anyone ever dents my volvo I'll be giving you a call. Just as soon as I've finished disposing of their corpse.


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## keithmac (23 May 2020)

Drago said:


> You need to try one Mr Keith. More comfortable than you humanly thought possible, they shrug bad weather contemptuously aside, and you quickly start to dig the whole languid, laid back nature of the car.



I'm going to get this year out of the way then start looking properly, will be an XC60 or an XC90.

The XC90 looks great for towing and plenty of space for family.

Could keep the Kuga for my wifes work and shopping car, if so the 90 makes more sense..

Seems 100,000 miles is small fry for either by the look of it.

Think my 550bhp GTO is going to find a new home, just a garden ornament at the moment..


----------



## stephec (24 May 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> 1.6 Laser, September 1986.


That's what I had, from Feb 87 I think.

I got a 1.6 instead of a 2.8 as I was using it as an everyday car and then six months later got offered a job with a company car, I wasn't happy.


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## cosmicbike (24 May 2020)

stephec said:


> That's what I had, from Feb 87 I think.
> 
> I got a 1.6 instead of a 2.8 as I was using it as an everyday car and then six months later got offered a job with a company car, I wasn't happy.


It's not the original engine, so I have no real reason not to play. The current 1600 Pinto has a big valve head and 2ltr cam, so more or less the 'GT' lump plus a little. I have a 2 ltr pinto in the garage awaiting a rebuild, so another option. That said, I love the sound of a V8, so who knows. Once I sort the bodywork I can make an engine decision.


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## cosmicbike (24 May 2020)

My car DIY today, getting the wing off. All done, wing is un-damaged aside from the rust and holes from drilling out the spot welds. Not as bad as it could be...






Now to set about stripping all the underseal off. Not looking forward to that.


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## Adam4868 (24 May 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Now to set about stripping all the underseal off. Not looking forward to that


Not a job I'm envious of ! Heat and a scraper...or a even better way is to use a child, preferably one of my own.


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## Drago (24 May 2020)

Adam4868 said:


> Not a job I'm envious of ! Heat and a scraper...or a even better way is to use a child, preferably one of my own.


That doesn't work. Children are too blunt to use as scrapers.


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## cosmicbike (25 May 2020)

Drago said:


> That doesn't work. Children are too blunt to use as scrapers.


And both of mine are too bright to fall for it anyway. I think a good few hours in the sunshine with a mixture of heat, wire wheels, petrol and scrapped knuckles will do it...


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## keithmac (25 May 2020)

Wire cup on an angle grinder for me every time.

Air needle scaler for rusty whishbones etc.


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## Adam4868 (25 May 2020)

keithmac said:


> Wire cup on an angle grinder for me every time.
> 
> Air needle scaler for rusty whishbones etc.


Solid ! I bet you don't wear gloves either 
Although your right,used one on a portable/angled drill that made it a doodle.


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## BianchiVirgin (25 May 2020)

BianchiVirgin said:


> Timing belt and aux belts fitted to the XC70. Don't know why I bothered. All the old parts in the timing kit looked like they were fitted last year and not in early '09. Anyway, a bit of a faff but it's done.
> 
> Issue with ac though so it's still on axle stands. AC man is coming on Monday. The clutch on the compressor is dying and dragging the pulley, overheating and this cause the stretch belt to fail. And an awkward SOB it is to replace. Hope there's no leak either  but I suspect the condenser might be leaking and that's one PITA job I could do without, apart from the expense.
> 
> Ah well, seeing as I made redundant last Tues I've a bit of spare time till I get something else.


Boll**ks. Compressor and condenser both leaking. Just as well I'm diying or it would be a very expensive bill. Anyway, radiator sandwich dropped this morning, surprisingly easily, and a lot handier than I expected. Now sourcing some parts. 😬

Late edit: compressor and condenser ordered. Hopefully delivered Wednesday or Thursday latest.


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (1 Jun 2020)

*Re; *https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/car-d-i-y.258173/post-5979217

I had a go at it this evening
First step was to remove the interior panel from the tail-gate & plug in the new motor - to check whether it was motor, or wiring
I did remember to close the tail-gate, so it worked




Yes, it was the motor
So next step, cut the spindle on the present motor
(used junior hacksaw, not the Dremel)






Out with the new motor




Fitted through the hole perfectly
One mounting bolt in.... excellent
Bolts 2 & 3...…….. nowhere near correctly placed, or the correct 'drop'

So, back on with the old motor, to prevent a hole in the glass 


*On the bright side....*
I managed to 'drift' the remains of the spindle out of the wiper arm, with the vice for support & a suitably sized bolt as the drift





(the new one I'd got was a bit short, & had no corresponding splines )
I had phoned DM Keith, this AM, & was quoted _£37- something _(inc VAT) for a new arm...… wiper blade not included!!!!!


Tomorrow, I'll have to phone DM Keith again, for the price of a OEM motor (so I know it'll fit)


----------



## fossyant (1 Jun 2020)

BianchiVirgin said:


> Boll**ks. Compressor and condenser both leaking. Just as well I'm diying or it would be a very expensive bill. Anyway, radiator sandwich dropped this morning, surprisingly easily, and a lot handier than I expected. Now sourcing some parts. 😬
> 
> Late edit: compressor and condenser ordered. Hopefully delivered Wednesday or Thursday latest.



Thats the only things that cost me dear on my car and a catalytic converter. Condenser radiator holed and a pipe cracked at a different point. All 3 jobs around £400 each. Thats been it though on an 18 year old car other than maintenance parts.


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## BianchiVirgin (1 Jun 2020)

Well, all finished today. Was waiting on gas man since Thursday so car has been on stands in the garage since. Took a while to put the last few covers and bits on and then a test drive. Other than a loose air box hose clip everything this was good to go. 

Nice to have the a/c back.


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (1 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> *Re; *https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/car-d-i-y.258173/post-5979217
> 
> I had a go at it this evening
> First step was to remove the interior panel from the tail-gate & plug in the new motor - to check whether it was motor, or wiring
> ...



Just checked_ Euro Car Parts, _as a thought & ordered one for collection from Wakefield branch on Wednesday AM
I'll take the relevant sockets with me, & change it in the car-park, so I can take it straight back in if it's not correct
It should be, as I've reserved using the registration number to confirm vehicle, & a OEM part?? (Valeo)

IF it's still not right, _ECP_ is less than a mile from the Wakefield branch of DM Keith, & I _*will *_bite the bullet to order from them


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## Richard A Thackeray (3 Jun 2020)

*Carrying On, From Previous Posting*

We were outside by 09:45, & I did change it in the car-park, the spindle's slightly shorter, so had to utilise daughter to push on the motor as I tightened the arm into place
She sat in the load-space, with the tail-gate closed (*1*) as I did it
I may have to put a couple of washers in as spacers on one of the (3) mounts, as it's not quite right

On arrival home, with a swept rear-window
I had quite forgotten though, after so long without it working, & wondered what the heck was happening, as it's got 'auto-sweep' when reverse is engaged & front wipers are on







*1. *Yes, I did let her out after it was in place
Plus bribery works, as I'd told her yesterday if she came with me, as much for her to have a ride-out (& to get up early!!!), I'd take her to the new Starbucks afterwards (on Doncaster Road)


*EDIT @ 14:50*
I never noticed in Euro Car Parts, but did once I go home and went to add the (A4) printed receipt to the Octavias history file, that they didn't charge me for something else I bought there
I rang up, & explained, gave the approximate time I was there. & the amount I spent
I offered to drive back over & pay for the uncharged item
_"Our mistake"_ was the reply "_Have it on us_" 

_'It' _was a 600ml can of WD40 (roughly £6 at Halfords)


----------



## Phaeton (4 Jun 2020)

Set off in the GTM for it's MOT & what could be it's first MOT, it wasn't on the database which goes back to 2006. Got about a mile out of the village & the engine cut out & coasted to a halt, all the lights, horn, wiper worked, just nothing on the key. Rang the MOT station & then rang for a tow, couldn't think anything obvious but then tried the key again & away it went. Decided to continue onto the MOT & apart from 4 tyres as advisory it passed. However on the way back I put 15L of petrol in then could start to smell petrol, on examination there is a small leak on a seam, not noticeable when there is very little fuel in, I did wonder why it came with a spare tank.


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## Drago (4 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> _'It' _was a 600ml can of WD40 (roughly £6 at Halfords)


Or £2.50 in Tesco. I bought 8 last time I was in there.


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## Richard A Thackeray (5 Jun 2020)

Drago said:


> Or £2.50 in Tesco. I bought 8 last time I was in there.


Not to worry, it was free this time


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## Richard A Thackeray (5 Jun 2020)

Drago said:


> Or £2.50 in Tesco. I bought 8 last time I was in there.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Are you sure it was this size., or was it a special offer?
https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/294834669


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## Gunk (5 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> *Carrying On, From Previous Posting*
> 
> We were outside by 09:45, & I did change it in the car-park, the spindle's slightly shorter, so had to utilise daughter to push on the motor as I tightened the arm into place
> She sat in the load-space, with the tail-gate closed (*1*) as I did it
> ...



that’s a lot of stickers, I’m surprised you can see out of the back window!


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## Drago (5 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Are you sure it was this size., or was it a special offer?
> https://www.tesco.com/groceries/en-GB/products/294834669


It was th 600ml. Would've been January time so may have been a special offer. Either way, I cleared the shelf.


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## Richard A Thackeray (5 Jun 2020)

Gunk said:


> that’s a lot of stickers, I’m surprised you can see out of the back window!


Well, the top-right duo are _West Yorkshire Police_ issued, basically asking them to stop it, if the driver looks young (or the vehicle is out/about at odd times)

The _British Cycling _should be self-explanatory, as should be the _'Yorkshire'_ decal

The '_Squires'_ is for.......... https://www.squires-cafe.co.uk/
(a regular stop for a brew, if I was out that way)


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## Gunk (5 Jun 2020)

I’m not a sticker person, first thing I do with a new car is take the dealer sticker out of the rear window


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## Richard A Thackeray (8 Jun 2020)

Gunk said:


> I’m not a sticker person, first thing I do with a new car is take the dealer sticker out of the rear window


Dealers was, as it didn't come from a main-dealer




Gunk said:


> that’s a lot of stickers, I’m surprised you can see out of the back window!


I have the_ 'Skull & Spanners'_ & _'Welderup'_ decals somewhere, for it


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## Tom B (8 Jun 2020)

Gunk said:


> I’m not a sticker person, first thing I do with a new car is take the dealer sticker out of the rear window.



I have been known to insist they do it and insist the refit the number plates without the 20mm high dealer name text.

Now I'm older I just take it out and put insulation tape over the dealer name on the number plates. Taken it in for a recall twice now and on both occasions the added a sticker and peeled off the tape. Cheeky buggers. But they did valet it and wash it all for free.

Sticker was returned and stuck on the desk as I advised them they'd forgotten it and left it in the car.

Those yellow and black Arnold Clark stickers just look horrid.


To bring it back on subject I e just ordered a pair of rear anti roll links for my focus. They e been rattling for about 3 years /12,000 now.

I've also put some rust killer on a few rust spots on it.

Next job it to wrap and tie up some pipes under the turbo that I noticed had been chafing before they go through and the coolant falls out.


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## Phaeton (8 Jun 2020)

On the MOT for the GTM last week he said that the handbrake was a bit high not advised though so this evening stripped off both rear callipers pushed both pistons back, pushed them out & back in again. Unglazed the pads with the angry grinder, put it all back together & adjusted handbrake.


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## Phaeton (10 Jun 2020)

Spent Saturday & Sunday between the torrential storms chasing down the intermittent fault, at first I thought it was a live near the ECU, then the lives coming off the starter motor but in the end I hope it was just a loose connection of the big connector into the ECU so put a big tiewrap around it. Since then although very little mileage it's not cut out again, but without a definite fault I'm still waiting for it to bite me in the arse.

Next job is the dropping drivers door, you need to be a contorsoinist to get to the 6 nuts holding the door on, hand through the dash, of course there one that you couldn't get a full spanner on because of the fibreglass, so 12th of a turn, turn spanner over, 12th turn, turn spanner over, repeat, eventually managed to get a 6th turn, but it did come off.

Once off stripped down the door card to get to the other 6 bolts bit easier & spun them off with the gun & a spanner, once off it was evident what was wrong, the top hinge had virtually seized & I could not open & close it by hand, but after some working & some Plus gas it freed up.





But the problem is more with the bottom one, it has seized up in the past & then it's broken the welds that hold the pin









With very little effort the thing came apart I now have to try to get the pin out, I tried a punch, then putting one end into a socket & then into a vice









I looked for my blow torch but no gas, so will have to wait until tomorrow & see if getting it hot will persuade it to part. Failing that I may have to drill it out but getting it square in the vice to drill is aways a problem without proper workshop facilities.


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## smokeysmoo (10 Jun 2020)

After passing it's MOT last Friday the Cee'd blew a DRL bulb on Monday 

I don't have any ramps or such like, so rolled the front wheel up on a couple of bricks, removed the under shield, managed to reach the bulb holder and turn it, but couldn't get the fecker out for love nor money. I couldn't even see what was stopping it TBH. I wouldn't mind but it's only a P21/5w 380 bulb as well 

Admitted defeat and ran it to the garage yesterday. The guy was just about to have his dinner, (that's lunch for you southern softies ), but he ran the car in, straight up on a ramp, changed the bulb all in under 10 mins.

He ran the car out and wouldn't take a bean off me. No matter how much I insisted 

I'd never used the garage until the MOT last week, and TBH it is well regarded locally which swung my decision, and needless to say that they now have a new customer on their books 

So thank you to them for going above and beyond, exemplary customer service and reputation building at it's finest


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## cosmicbike (10 Jun 2020)

Got Grace (my Volvo 240 estate) up on ramps a couple of days ago in preparation for gearbox removal and clutch replacement. Been solid with work since, but yesterday had one of those conference calls where all I had to do was listen, so took the opportunity to lay underneath and clean off all the oil and muck so at least it will be a bit cleaner when I get round to it. Also had a go at getting to the top pair of bellhousing bolts, the VOC forum has a great guide which says you will need wobble bars to get them out. They're right, mostly. Got one cracked off with a single U/J, the other will need a bizarre combo to get on nicely.


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## Electric_Andy (10 Jun 2020)

Well I tinkered with my Pioneer head unit but it still doesn't work. So I bought a chinese head unit for £21 of Amazon (a new one). I have to say I'm very impressed. The sound quality is not noticeably different from my Pioneer unit, the controls are a bit flimsy and plasticky but that's to be expected. It has Bluetooth conenctivity (as well as Aux, USB and bizarely an SD card slot). It is also fixed, rather than a lift-off face so should undergo less wear and tear than the other one. Recommended if anyone needs a new one but doesn't want to shell out £70+


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## Proto (10 Jun 2020)

Just refitted the Recaro bucket seats into my 2005 Audi TT Quattro Sport, back to original now, in preparation for selling it. Hateful things, sit far too low, and at my age difficult to get in and out. Rok hard and no adjustment apart from forward/back.

I’d fitted some great seats from a similar vintage TT, an S-Line model, ‘comfort’ seats the purists call them, and they were a no charge option when the car was new. Much, much better.

The Recaros are very sought after By the TT enthusiasts. One fellow offered me £1500 for the pair 😳


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## Gunk (10 Jun 2020)

Proto said:


> Just refitted the Recaro bucket seats into my 2005 Audi TT Quattro Sport, back to original now, in preparation for selling it. Hateful things, sit far too low, and at my age difficult to get in and out. Rok hard and no adjustment apart from forward/back.
> 
> I’d fitted some great seats from a similar vintage TT, an S-Line model, ‘comfort’ seats the purists call them, and they were a no charge option when the car was new. Much, much better.
> 
> The Recaros are very sought after By the TT enthusiasts. One fellow offered me £1500 for the pair 😳



I had them in my old 911, great for track days but really uncomfortable on a long run, my wife called them “baby seats”


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## Proto (10 Jun 2020)

Recaro ’Pole Position’, I believe. Terrible things.


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## Gunk (10 Jun 2020)

I’d rather have my Golf seats


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## cosmicbike (10 Jun 2020)

Hateful things, fixed Recaros. No danger of my Capri getting a proper classic set, they are silly money, likewise any of the 'S' seats with orange check and fishnet headrests. 
I picked up a pair of nice Recaros from, by the fabric, an early 90's Escort RS Turbo for a mere £62. Fully adjustable and very comfy, they'll be going in once I finish her off, but the original Laser seats will be stuck on the loft for the future.


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## Richard A Thackeray (13 Jun 2020)

Now that the rear-wiper is back to normal, there's another task waiting
The air-con (probably) needs re-gassing, as it takes ages - _when I do use it_ - to demist the windows

That said, it's a June 2011 registration, & I bought it in March 2012, & I've not had it gassed, thus presumably it's about time


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## Phaeton (13 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> The air-con (probably) needs re-gassing, as it takes ages - _when I do use it_ - to demist the windows
> That said, it's a June 2011 registration, & I bought it in March 2012, & I've not had it gassed, thus presumably it's about time


Our Rav4 is 2007 & still cold, the 2010 Volvo had to put a new condenser on, when the guy came out he mentioned that Toyota AC units are some of the best around. Have a number for him if you want it, he's a mobile guy so presume he'd come up to Wakey


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## Richard A Thackeray (13 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Our Rav4 is 2007 & still cold, the 2010 Volvo had to put a new condenser on, when the guy came out he mentioned that Toyota AC units are some of the best around. Have a number for him if you want it, he's a mobile guy so presume he'd come up to Wakey


Thankyou
However, our trusted (for a few years now) garage that deals with all 3 cars has the facilities, & if the owner logs the job/prepares the bill I usually get 'mates-rates' (£10/hour off)

Or, if he's busy on the days I can do, the husband of one of our Sisters owns a garage on a main-road out of Wakefield, she's told me she'll 'tip him the wink'

Thanks again for offering


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## cosmicbike (13 Jun 2020)

Took a little longer than planned, mainly due to very stubborn 27 year old bolts, but the gearbox is off the Volvo 240. Just need to order new clutch and a few other bits, then back together next weekend.


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## fossyant (13 Jun 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Took a little longer than planned, mainly due to very stubborn 27 year old bolts, but the gearbox is off the Volvo 240. Just need to order new clutch and a few other bits, then back together next weekend.
> View attachment 529737



Gearbox and "TUNES"


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## gbb (13 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Now that the rear-wiper is back to normal, there's another task waiting
> The air-con (probably) needs re-gassing, as it takes ages - _when I do use it_ - to demist the windows
> 
> That said, it's a June 2011 registration, & I bought it in March 2012, & I've not had it gassed, thus presumably it's about time


Cabin filter ?
They often get left and slowly clog up. This has a big impact on the airflow through the interior vents.


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## cosmicbike (13 Jun 2020)

fossyant said:


> Gearbox and "TUNES"



A vital part of working on the cars, found some great old stuff on you tube so today I was accompanied by Joy Division, OMD and Bowie to name but a few.


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## Phaeton (13 Jun 2020)

I like doing stuff that you can leave it a week & not have to have it finished due work the next day


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## Richard A Thackeray (13 Jun 2020)

gbb said:


> Cabin filter ?
> They often get left and slowly clog up. This has a big impact on the airflow through the interior vents.


I've been into the 'back-bedroom' & pulled the service file out of a cupboard, this was changed at;

Oct '14 @ 70,600 miles
Feb '16 @ 91,850 miles
Mar '17 @ 109,765 miles
Sep '18 @ 131,280 miles

Circa 142,700 miles, at the moment


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## screenman (13 Jun 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> I've been into the 'back-bedroom' & pulled the service file out of a cupboard, this was changed at;
> 
> Oct '14 @ 70,600 miles
> Feb '16 @ 91,850 miles
> ...



Did you change it yourself? I see so many of these done but not done.


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## Richard A Thackeray (14 Jun 2020)

screenman said:


> Did you change it yourself? I see so many of these done but not done.


No, but as stated above. we trust the garage

(the owner is my wifes business partners brother)


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## cosmicbike (14 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> I like doing stuff that you can leave it a week & not have to have it finished due work the next day


That's why I enjoy working on the Volvo and Capri, they're not really daily drivers (although the Volvo is meant to be). I go most places by bike, and have a Festa plus the camper if needed.

Quiet day today, I've cleaned the gearbox cross member and will chuck a coat of paint on it before re-fitting next weekend, assuming all the bits arrive by then.


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## Phaeton (14 Jun 2020)

Had quick look at the GTM windscreen wiper (singular) today, there appears to be an off, intermittent, slow, fast, however I only have slow in the intermittent position & no parking. Got my Rover 100 manual out & none of the wire colours match, got my Austin Metro manual out & they at least match, but currently not making any sense, may have to independently power the motor to see if it has 2 speeds.

Anyone understand how the park works, there is a switched live to the unit on the ignition, if I remember rightly when the motor moves it makes a set of contacts so that if the stalk is switched off power is still applied until the motor gets back into the home position & the contacts break again. If that is right it could be that the home position is not in the new home position so this has been wired out.


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## smokeysmoo (20 Jun 2020)

Aftermarket reverse sensors fitted to the Ceed today.

I bought them months ago off fleabay but just couldn't be @rsed doing it at the time.

However I'm that bored now being furloughed that I thought I'd get it done.

Roll on going back to work, or better still finding a new job altogether before then.







[EDIT] nipped out in the car today and RH indicator was flashing quick, checked and the rear one wasn't working. Got home changed it still nothing, then a thought hit me, I'd had the whole lamp unit out yesterday, I'd obviously re-fitted it, but not plugged the bugger back in, d'oh!


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## cosmicbike (20 Jun 2020)

The last of the parts finally arrived for getting the new clutch back into the Volvo. Replaced the rear main seal which was clearly leaking, based on the amount of oil in the bellhousing









Biggest issue had been getting the gearbox oil fill plug out. Attempts in the car resulted in a rounded off hex head, various attempts on the bench were no better. In the end I drilled and used lots (and lots) of heat with an Easi Out, I won in the end
Flywheel refitted after a quick de-glaze, and new clutch + plate fitted this afternoon, along with filling the 'box with nice new ATF F.
Tomorrow will be hoisting the 'box back in, can't wait....


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## Drago (20 Jun 2020)

Went to the Outlaws today. Took my Volvo to give it a run. 

I couldn't be arsed to drive so let MrsD chauffeur me. On the M45 I noticed something odd with the passenger door mirror - the glass was wobbling badly. I asked Mrs D to slow a bit, pressed the button to fold the mirror, and dropped my window. I held the mirror and was able to pull the glass off with little effort!

It's no drama. The glue that olde the glass on to its backing has dried out, and the recent hot weather wont have helped. New Volvo ones are 85 sheets, but cheap pattern ones under a tenner. Luckily, the glass is intact so I've removed the mounting plate and I've Sikaflex'd the glass back. Its currently held together with 2 bulldog clips while it dries, and I'll refit it tomorrow.

Then leaving the outlaws we got a bulb warning message. Out with the spares, and a new W5W nearside tail light bulb fitted. 2 "breakdowns" in one day! The only other breakdown was a headlamp bulb about 3 years ago - they're xenon projectors, and my Dad replaced both as when one goes the other isn't usually far behind.


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## Phaeton (20 Jun 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> The last of the parts finally arrived for getting the new clutch back into the Volvo. Replaced the rear main seal which was clearly leaking, based on the amount of oil in the bellhousing
> View attachment 531264
> 
> View attachment 531265
> ...


Once spent 3 hours under an Escort huffing & puffing trying to get a box on just would not slide up. Recentred multiple times but still wouldn't do it, was just about to slide out from under the car to have a break & pushed against the box to get out & the sodding thing slid straight on.


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## cosmicbike (20 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Once spent 3 hours under an Escort huffing & puffing trying to get a box on just would not slide up. Recentred multiple times but still wouldn't do it, was just about to slide out from under the car to have a break & pushed against the box to get out & the sodding thing slid straight on.


I'm hoping it's close enough, I have to lift and twist the 'box in at the same time sliding the input shaft through the clutch to clear the starter motor housing. Rope, blocks of wood and a jack are going to be my friends.


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## tyred (20 Jun 2020)

A while back I sort of inherited a Skoda Fabia which I've been working on these past few weekends. Broken gear linkage (the reason car was taken off the road in the first place) repaired, have confirmed the window winder is knackered so have ordered a second hand replacement from Ebay, cleaned corroded contacts on tail lamp. I haven't checked yet but Google informs me that the reason the heater fan only works on speed four is due to the ballast resistor. Today I cleaned the very dirty seats with Vanish stain remover and scrubbing brush. I'm amazed at how they've cleaned up but the driver's seat is worn thread-bare.

I'm trying to work out how my 205 which is over twice the age with over twice the mileage and has all original gear linkages, window winders, heater fan all working properly and the driver's seat is as good as new yet for years I've listened to bar stool experts tell me French cars and badly made junk and I should buy myself a VW....it is also very bland with no features of interest whatsoever.


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## Drago (21 Jun 2020)

If you look at the Warranty Direct Warranty Index, which measures actual breakdowns and failures - JD Power etc measure customer opinion - most VW models dont manag better than average, and some very badly.

My Ma was a director at the importer, V.A.G, many, many moons ago and she always reckoned the standard of build and quality of finish was nothing to get excited over, praising VW's historically clever marketing for bestowing the brand with an image that the product didn't quite deserve.


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## Phaeton (21 Jun 2020)

tyred said:


> VW....it is also very bland with no features of interest whatsoever.


Add BMW & Audi to that, possibly a cultural thing, F-I-L had a BMW in the 80's whilst they were still slightly exclusive & not like dog poo, I was always unimpressed by the interior, the quality of the straight 2.0L straight 6 though was another matter.


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## tyred (21 Jun 2020)

Drago said:


> If you look at the Warranty Direct Warranty Index, which measures actual breakdowns and failures - JD Power etc measure customer opinion - most VW models dont manag better than average, and some very badly.
> 
> My Ma was a director at the importer, V.A.G, many, many moons ago and she always reckoned the standard of build and quality of finish was nothing to get excited over, praising VW's historically clever marketing for bestowing the brand with an image that the product didn't quite deserve.



I must admit to being a fan of the original Golf which is a great car to drive by any standards, was ahead of it's time if you compare it to things like the MK I/MK II Escort or Opel Kadett and could take a few hundred thousand miles in it's stride with any kind of reasonable maintenance. I still have a late model pick up version which I hope to restore. In my experience, despite the reputation for quality, they can and do rust just as much as any other 70s car though and they were let down by a few niggling details like window winders which tended to strip, a heater fan which usually only works on the highest speed, iffy switchgear and electrical contacts and and a gear linkage which falls apart. Also they put the fuseboard underneath the dash at the passenger side so trying to replace a fuse usually ends up with the need to lie upside down in the passenger side footwell.

In the case of Golf I I can and overlook these faults due to the age of the design and it was better than most cars of it's era. However the fact that a 21st century VW product is still suffering from temperamental electrics and self-destructing gear linkages and window winders is inexcusable. What have VW learned in the past 47 years?


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## tyred (21 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Add BMW & Audi to that, possibly a cultural thing, F-I-L had a BMW in the 80's whilst they were still slightly exclusive & not like dog poo, I was always unimpressed by the interior, the quality of the straight 2.0L straight 6 though was another matter.



I can see why someone would like a 6 cylinder petrol BMW as it is truely one of the smoothest engines around.

Unfortunately most BMWs sold nowadays are fitted with tractor engines.


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## Drago (21 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Add BMW & Audi to that, possibly a cultural thing, F-I-L had a BMW in the 80's whilst they were still slightly exclusive & not like dog poo, I was always unimpressed by the interior, the quality of the straight 2.0L straight 6 though was another matter.


My old 7 series was the same. It cost my ex wife an absolute mint. It was very comfortable, very well appointed, but lacked any real flair.

The build quality was a strange mix of stunning and meh. It was a semi handmade car, and individual components, even individual nuts and bolts, were beautifully finished. No penny pinching there.

But the electrics were dreadful. A persistent immobiliser fault left me stranded several times, and there were all sorts of other niggles. I was actually quite surprised to find one day that when it warned me of a tail light bulb failure that the bulb really had failed, and it wasn't just another fault. BMW are another brand with an image for "quality" that isn't really deserved.

The engine, however, was a peach. I'm not a car person by any means, but the turbine smoothness and instant punch from any revs was nice.


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## Phaeton (21 Jun 2020)

tyred said:


> What have VW learned in the past 47 years?


That they have a better marketing department then other car brand, that their target market of financially mobile users are like sheep, most will have an iPhone & will believe all the other hype that gets thrown at them, if something fails they will overlook that as they are in the "In crowd" & will just replace it with another at the end of 3 years.


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## smokeysmoo (21 Jun 2020)

Noticed a DRL bulb out on the Ceed the other day, and I know they're a fecker to do. 

Anyway bit the bullet today and changed them both, and TBH it's nowhere near as bad when you actually use ramps rather than trying to squeeze your melon under the car at standard height 

FWIW I have to say I think the Koreans choice of a P21/5W 380 as a DRL bulb, especially one in a poorly accessible position is p!$$ poor IMO 

I was going to replace them with LED's purely for longer life, but at £25-£30 a pair I decided to fit a standard branded bulb instead.


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## cosmicbike (21 Jun 2020)

Well that took most of the day, but my Grace (Volvo 240 estate) now has a new clutch fitted. I need new shoulders from working upside down on the driveway all day, but the car is transformed. Easy gear selection, no crunchy reverse, wonderful. The one I removed was an OEM Sachs, so maybe the original, the car has about 180,000 miles on so not bad.
Only the NSF control arm to replace now and that's probably all the mechanical stuff done. A few bits of wiring to sort out, along with new tailgate hinges and tidy some of the trim.


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## tyred (21 Jun 2020)

I repaired the hinges on the parcel shelf of the Skoda and this morning using two small pieces of wood and some 4mm bolts as I refuse to give Skoda €50 for two stupid plastic clip things. Works perfectly but why oh why did they put the hinge a few inches behind the back rest of the seat so when the bootlid opens the shelf lifts and leaves a 2 inch gap so anything left on the parcel shelf will fall into the boot.

It's basically a good car really, all the parts that matter - engine, gearbox, suspension etc seem to be perfect and the bodywork is rustfree and sound apart from a few minor scrapes. It's just let down by a long list of silly faults that need time rather than money to sort them. I might treat it to a set of cheap wheel trims to make it look a bit better.

I suspect my 205 will fail test on the rusty sills in August. I plan on using the Skoda while I do some restoration work on the 205. The 205 will always be my first motoring love. I view the Skoda as an appliance.


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## Gunk (21 Jun 2020)

tyred said:


> I can see why someone would like a 6 cylinder petrol BMW as it is truely one of the smoothest engines around.
> 
> Unfortunately most BMWs sold nowadays are fitted with tractor engines.



I really miss my old E46 330i touring, I bought it in 2002 when was a year old and kept it for 8 years.


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## Phaeton (22 Jun 2020)

Gear change on the GTM was very sloppy I drilled out the connecting rod at the back a few weeks ago from 6mm to 8mm & that made a bit of difference so decided to look at the front yesterday.

The photo doesn't show it up too well but a 6mm bolt in a hole that was a an 8mm rod slopped about in but couldn't quite get a 9mm in






Put a rod inside the tube & welded it all up & redrilled, far better now


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## Richard A Thackeray (22 Jun 2020)

Gunk said:


> I really miss my old E46 330i touring, I bought it in 2002 when was a year old and kept it for 8 years.



Despite my not liking B*Ws (*1*), my head was momentairly changed by one I saw dropping someone off at work a few days ago

It was a 'petrol-blue' (no idea of the name) 3 series ....... I can't really call it an estate, as it's not really capacious enough to bear that name
_Touring_, is that the phrase??
And equally, it didn't have any stupid 'rubber-band' tyres, they appeared to have a sensible sidewall aspect

It was a diesel, first two digits were _*33*_, so a 3litre (or more???)
It sounded as though it was an automatic, as it pulled away though

10 seconds of thought, & I was back to thoughts of my Octavia


*1. *Discounting the i8, the father of one of daughters old school friends has one, & it's very intriguing


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## gbb (22 Jun 2020)

Former colleague of mine hd a (i think) BMW 330 convertible (very late 90s model i suspect) but it was maybe 4 years old when he had it. Awesome car he always said, fast, comfortable, stylish....but eye wateringly expensive every time something went wrong with it...which was a moderately regular thing. He got rid, couldnt afford the extra (un) relaibility costs that came with it.


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## Gunk (22 Jun 2020)

We also had a 330i convertible. Lovely car. That went when the kids arrived!


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## figbat (22 Jun 2020)

Best car I have had so far is a BMW 130i. That engine absolutely made the car. Every now and then I look it up on the government MOT website and see that after my initial ownership it is still going and has a low annual mileage. I wish I could track it down. In the three years I had it (from new) not a single thing went wrong; it just had oil, filters and tyres.


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## Phaeton (22 Jun 2020)

figbat said:


> In the three years I had it (from new) not a single thing went wrong; it just had oil, filters and tyres.


But like a Toyota then, although mine is now 14 years old


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## figbat (22 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> But like a Toyota then, although mine is now 14 years old


Or like my old Yamaha motorbike - 17 years with me with only a single spark plug cap failure to blot its copybook.


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## fossyant (22 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> But like a Toyota then, although mine is now 14 years old



Or a Nissan, mine is 18 !  and the Qashqai is nearly 8 - now't gone with that, other than tyres and some new anti-roll bar links, which were a doddle.


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## Drago (22 Jun 2020)

figbat said:


> Or like my old Yamaha motorbike - 17 years with me with only a single spark plug cap failure to blot its copybook.


12 years and 141,000 and the passenger mirror glass becoming partially unglued is the only issue my D5 brick has suffered, unless you count the occasional bulb.


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## cosmicbike (23 Jun 2020)

Well the 240 adventure goes on. After fitting the new clutch etc a short drive showed no issues. A longer run last night revealed a nasty driveline vibration at about 50mph, so head back under today to see what was amiss. Working upside down and tired, I'd managed to fit the giubo 60 degrees out of kilter, so the gearbox output shaft was driving into the thin section of the giubo. Suitably corrected and driven, quiet as a mouse
I've also fitted a pair of front speakers into the holes in the front door cards, so music up front without deafening those in the back.


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## tyred (27 Jun 2020)

Replacement window winder fitted to the Czech blandmobile.

The motor actually had a totally different electrical connector despite being an identical VAG part number Thankfully it was the cable which had broke in mine and not the motor so I was able to swap motors and save the hassle of trying to wire it. Have to say the door card on the Fabia is a well designed and quality piece of kit - easy to remove and refit compared to some cars I've worked on.

I've discovered that if I have had the engine running and stop it, for some peculiar reason the boot locks itself and won't unlock itself for about an hour after stopping the engine. This without locking or unlocking any of the doors. There is no keyhole on the boot either. No idea why it should do this but it is potentially inconvenient. Must refer to Google as I no have idea where to start with this one.

My Peugeot has also decided to start to leak petrol somewhere so I need to investigate that too. Of course I discovered this after I filled


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## gbb (27 Jun 2020)

New wipers fitted to the Astra. Bosch (same as the originals, now 5 years old) at £36 at Halfords, more expensive at Eurocarparts, £20 from Amazon ... no brainer even though I hate Amazon.
Lovely and clean action, smooth, and given the reports of fakes from Amazon, they certainly seem genuine.


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## tyred (1 Aug 2020)

Touched up some flaking underseal on my 205 and tried to reseal the slight blow in one of the exhaust joints but the threads are bad and it won't tighten properly. I'll have to order a new clip.

I will see what the tester has to say about the sills at the end of the month. It might pass but even so I have to accept the inevitable that I need to get the sills replaced. The outer panel is fine, it's the inside edge partially covered by the petrol tank which is the issue. The tank will need to come out and God knows what that is hiding. 

I can't complain, it's 25 years old after all and has been driven all year round and driven through farmyards and across fields.

I just hate the thought of having to use my Skoda while I sort out my beloved Peugeot.


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## Drago (2 Aug 2020)

Forecast looks good. Tomorrow will be doing the front discs and pads on the Brick. 336mm discs are probably the largest ones I've ever had to replace on a car! I've all the time in the world, so while I'm in there it'll get all new fluid and I'll paint the calipers. Paint will be black for visual tidyness with high levels of discretion - red calipers are for boy racers.


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## Richard A Thackeray (2 Aug 2020)

Starting to see an intermittant 'Bulb Failure' lamp in the instrument cluster of my Octavia
I've had a look at the tail-lights, changed a couple that are starting to _cloud,_ but no, it's still lighting up as it please_s_


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## Gunk (2 Aug 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Starting to see an intermittant 'Bulb Failure' lamp in the instrument cluster of my Octavia
> I've had a look at the tail-lights, changed a couple that are starting to _cloud,_ but no, it's still lighting up as it please_s_



I've got the same problem with my Mk7 Golf, corner lighting fault light intermittently pops up, sometimes a couple a months apart. irritating though.


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## Richard A Thackeray (2 Aug 2020)

It's due a service soon, so if it's still showing the fault, I'll ask them to 'plug it in' & interrogate the electronics
(or clear it)


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## fossyant (2 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> Forecast looks good. Tomorrow will be doing the front discs and pads on the Brick. 336mm discs are probably the largest ones I've ever had to replace on a car! I've all the time in the world, so while I'm in there it'll get all new fluid and I'll paint the calipers. Paint will be black for visual tidyness with high levels of discretion - red calipers are for boy racers.



My son has just painted his red. Couldn't do the rears as the locking wheel nut looked damaged, and we couldn't undo the nut. Ordered a new key and wheel nuts for £17 with the same code. Compared to the new key, the old one is very worn, which hasn't happened since my son had the car.


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## screenman (2 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> Forecast looks good. Tomorrow will be doing the front discs and pads on the Brick. 336mm discs are probably the largest ones I've ever had to replace on a car! I've all the time in the world, so while I'm in there it'll get all new fluid and I'll paint the calipers. Paint will be black for visual tidyness with high levels of discretion - red calipers are for boy racers.




What about blue, just asking for a friend.


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## Drago (2 Aug 2020)

Blue is for older people who still behave as if they're young boy racers. Even on exotics, like Ferraris or Porkers, coloured calipers loom daft.

On vars with bulb sensors, replace bulbs in pairs. As they age the current they draw increases minutely. The difference between an old bulb on one side, and a new one on the other, can be sufficient to make the car thinkmit has a bulb out.


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## smokeysmoo (2 Aug 2020)

Not Car D.I.Y. but I've mentioned the Ceed a few times on here so thought I'd post this update.

I started a new job on the 6th July, and at around 4pm the same afternoon the Ceed was written off whilst parked and unattended 

The guy managed to write off 6 vehicles, (including his own), and all on a minor road, so gawd knows what speed he was dong. Mine was the second parked vehicle and sustained front and rear damage. Fortunately the first car he hit was occupied, so he was held at the scene, and possiblt even more surprisingly he was in fact insured 

I actually drove the car home as the radiator was undamaged and I didn't fancy waiting for recovery, and I was surprised when the insurance told me in the first phone call that it was a write off, I loved my little Ceed 

Anyway it was all handled really quickly and I had a cheque within a week, and as I was so happy with the Kia we got another one, all be it a bit of an upgrade over the humble Ceed 1 we had.


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## raleighnut (2 Aug 2020)

tyred said:


> Touched up some flaking underseal on my 205 and tried to reseal the slight blow in one of the exhaust joints but the threads are bad and it won't tighten properly. I'll have to order a new clip.
> 
> I will see what the tester has to say about the sills at the end of the month. It might pass but even so I have to accept the inevitable that I need to get the sills replaced. The outer panel is fine, it's the inside edge partially covered by the petrol tank which is the issue. The tank will need to come out and God knows what that is hiding.
> 
> ...


Aye I know what you mean, Pamela (an ex) had one and it was a lovely little car, frugal on the juice and lovely handling


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## Drago (3 Aug 2020)

New discs and pads fitted, calipers painted.






Bloody hard work. The job was easy enough, but it's like working on a lorry - everything weighs three times as much and is done twice as tight.


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## screenman (3 Aug 2020)

Those wheels look heavy, I miss the days of having studs instead of bolts when refitting a wheel, mind you if you have one the removable aligning stud is useful. I had mine off on the Skoda last week due to it needing a new backing plate.


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## fossyant (3 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> New discs and pads fitted, calipers painted.
> 
> View attachment 539597
> 
> ...



Looks neat. Pulled the wheel's off MrsF's car and painted the calipers and suspension component's with aqua steel. Turned any bear metal black and just coats the painted stuff clear.


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## Drago (3 Aug 2020)

Aye, 19 inch wheels with 255 section tyres - they weight a flipping ton! The mighty 336mm discs outweigh the typical manhole cover. No wonder no one has died while travelling in an xc90 - anything in their way such as orphans, nuns, Bradley Fighting vehicles, etc, just get swatted casually aside in an avalanche of steel and cast iron!

Volvo pads with Lockheed-Delphi almunised discs so they won't corrode so quickly. The old discs weren't that worn but the edges were starting to look like a puff pastry. Calipers were wire brushed, Rust-Killed and black smooth Hammerite was applied. My back is killing me from the herculean effort involved - no wonder Volvo dealers charge so much! Next week will be a service, but I need to let my back recover first.


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## cosmicbike (4 Aug 2020)

No car DIY for me this week, just the £600 bill from VW for the cambelt on my T5 Wouldn't mind but I'm changing it soon.


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## fossyant (4 Aug 2020)

I'll buy the T5 for £600 and a turnip ? 👅


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## cosmicbike (4 Aug 2020)

fossyant said:


> I'll buy the T5 for £600 and a turnip ? 👅



Why not. Sorry but a few pennies shy, about 3000000 of them, give or take change


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## Richard A Thackeray (6 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> Those wheels look heavy, I miss the days of having studs instead of bolts when refitting a wheel, mind you if you have one the removable aligning stud is useful. I had mine off on the Skoda last week due to it needing a new backing plate.


Range Rovers had an tapered alignment tool, for a few years in the last years of the 'classic' (or Series 1, as I term it)





Drago said:


> Aye, 19 inch wheels with 255 section tyres - they weight a flipping ton! The mighty 336mm discs outweigh the typical manhole cover. No wonder no one has died while travelling in an xc90 - anything in their way such as orphans, nuns, Bradley Fighting vehicles, etc, just get swatted casually aside in an avalanche of steel and cast iron!
> 
> My back is killing me from the herculean effort involved - no wonder Volvo dealers charge so much! Next week will be a service, but I need to let my back recover first.


It used to be heavy work with the 110's
Initially 7.50 x 16 (a crossply sizing, but applied to a radial tyre...), but I changed to 235/85 x 16
Getting one off the bonnet took some doing!!
(till it went inside, when I had the white Hard-Top

Seen here, on Pendine Sands - when you could drive on there)






These tyres were fun to change (9.00 x 16, & a 6-stud rim)
A friend had one - not this one
Great fun to drive, but 'bar-grips' are scary on a wet-road)





My last Landie had the rear-door mount
I was going to fit a swing-away, but on taking the trim panel off, it had a lot of strengthening added by previous owner
Oh! & I altered the lighting, to something more visible than a poor quality candle

Top = tail/brake
Lower = tail/2 x fog


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## screenman (6 Aug 2020)

This lot about wheels reminded me I started my full time working life doing an apprenticeship as a lorry mechanic, it did not last long though, about 6 months if I remember correctly, now those wheels were heavy, sliding them on and off using a shovel.


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## Drago (6 Aug 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Range Rovers had an tapered alignment tool, for a few years in the last years of the 'classic' (or Series 1, as I term it)
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Not only is everything heavy on a proper Landie, the chances are its corroded into position as well!


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## Richard A Thackeray (6 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> Not only is everything heavy on a proper Landie, the chances are its corroded into position as well!



So true, and anyone who says they don't rust/corrode, never owned one!!😊


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## screenman (6 Aug 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> So true, and anyone who says they don't rust/corrode, never owned one!!😊



The first Range Rover I owned was I think a P Reg, rack and pinion steering if I remember correctly, a friend of mine had a nice business making tailgates for them to replace the very rusty one's.


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## Richard A Thackeray (6 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> The first Range Rover I owned was I think a P Reg, rack and pinion steering if I remember correctly, a friend of mine had a nice business making tailgates for them to replace the very rusty one's.


Sorry, it'd have been a steering box & 'drag-links'

Like this, with the bow changing the direction of input-to-output








Yes, tailgates were an issue, with rot


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## Drago (6 Aug 2020)

Cleaned the XC90 within an inch if its life today. Still had some energy left so I ceramic coated the paint. By christ, that's a workout!


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## Richard A Thackeray (6 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> so I ceramic coated the paint. By christ, that's a workout!


You tiled it?


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## screenman (6 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> Cleaned the XC90 within an inch if its life today. Still had some energy left so I ceramic coated the paint. By christ, that's a workout!



You did not waste your time, I can often tell when doing a dent if it has a coating or not as I have to concentrate harder using the knock down on a slippery surface. Now when you wash it before you dry it use a very cheap aerosol polish, Poundland style a very few squirts here and there when the car is damp makes it leather off far easier and leaves a just waxed feel to it. Do not give that tip away as only the clever guys know it.


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## Drago (6 Aug 2020)

Screenie knows his car bodywork - if he says it's a good thing, then that's good enough for me.


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## screenman (6 Aug 2020)

I have ceramic coating on my car, I applied it and top it up every 6 months or so.


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## cosmicbike (6 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> I have ceramic coating on my car, I applied it and top it up every 6 months or so.


 Is it worth the £600 odd that they have quoted to put it on my new van....?


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## screenman (6 Aug 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Is it worth the £600 odd that they have quoted to put it on my new van....?



No, do it yourself for a fraction of the cost and likely make a better job, failing that find a local independent blaster who offers the service. You can buy ceramic coating from about £20.


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## tyred (16 Aug 2020)

Further investigation into my 205's exhaust system revealed that the short bit of pipe from the Cat to where it joins the middle section had actually gone porous. This was the original 1996 Cat (at least I had never replaced it in my ownership since 2007). Just before the test centre closed for lockdown in March I had failed for high lambda reading which I believe is almost always down to an air leak into the exhaust which was why I was looking at this in detail. The Cat was much heavier grade steel than the rest of the exhaust system which is why it's outlasted several exhaust systems and it hadn't blown a hole in it or wasn't weak enough to push holes in it but what seemed like light surface rust when cleaned away was actually very deep pitting.

Several exhaust centres said it was impossible to buy a new Cat and suggested all sorts of bodges but I was able to find an online source. I paid the extra for an approved branded Cat with a guarantee as a mechanic friend told me that the really cheap spurious ones only last a few weeks.

So today I fitted my new Cat. What I hadn't realised when I ordered it was that the middle section of the exhaust came with it too so I fitted that too. The back box had been replaced last October so I now have basically a new exhaust front to back and I replaced all the rubber mountings too. I have always left exhausts to the exhaust centres in the past but in reality it was very easy and straightforward (helped by the 205's generous ground clearance by modern standards. The time-consuming bit was undoing the two flange bolts at the front which were tight, rusty and had about 1.5" of unnecessary threads and took an age to undo as I had only room for about 1/4 turn at a time reaching down the back of the engine. Why Peugeot felt the need to use such long bolts is a mystery to me. I was hoping they'd snap off as the new Cat came with replacements but they had to be unscrewed right to the bitter end.

The difference in refinement when I drive the car is unbelievable. It must have gradually got noisier without me realising! It was the one genuine improvement I did see when comparing the 205 to the Fabia - the Fabia's engine is much quieter at speed. Now I don't think there is any real difference now that the 205 is as it was supposed to be.

I think there was a design fault in the exhaust system on the 205. The exhaust is not supported at the joint with back box so it is difficult to keep this joint sealed in my experience as the weight of the back silencer is resting on the joint.

I also rectified another irritation. My car had been rear-ended in the past and the boot lid replaced so it had a different key to lock it. Early last year the ignition barrel screwed up so I fitted a replacement so I had a situation where I needed a key for the boot, a key for the front doors and and a key for the ignition so I bought a complete lock set from Ebay and fitted it today as well. Unfortunately it didn't come with a petrol cap or the glovebox lid lock (to be fair mine is one of the very few 205 I have ever seen with locking glovebox. It must have been an optional extra) so I still need the original key but I will leave it in the car. I now only need one key to unlock the door, open the boot or start the engine  I will get a spare cut too. The advantage of owning a pre-immobiliser car is that I can get a spare key in the locksmith's for peanuts


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## Phaeton (17 Aug 2020)

This arrived as my latest project







Running a tad rich at the moment, it would go down a treat a MaccyD's with all the banging, popping & flames, think the float maybe stuck.


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## Drago (17 Aug 2020)

Robin Hood?


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## Phaeton (17 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> Robin Hood?


Aye


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## MarkF (17 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> I have ceramic coating on my car, I applied it and top it up every 6 months or so.


 What's ceramic coating for a car?


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## screenman (17 Aug 2020)

MarkF said:


> What's ceramic coating for a car?



Paint protection.


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## MarkF (17 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> Paint protection.


 Is it any good, worth doing? I am always waxing the 1992 Eunos.


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## screenman (17 Aug 2020)

MarkF said:


> Is it any good, worth doing? I am always waxing the 1992 Eunos.



Properly applied and maintained yes, stops things sticking to the paint.


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## Adam4868 (17 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> Properly applied and maintained yes, stops things sticking to the paint.


What is it called ? Brand name I mean.Is it that much better than say Auto Glynn ?


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## screenman (17 Aug 2020)

Adam4868 said:


> What is it called ? Brand name I mean.Is it that much better than say Auto Glynn ?



There are lots of different brands out there, mine has Kia on the label and is a gift from a valeter pal. Autoglym what? They make many different products.


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## Adam4868 (17 Aug 2020)

screenman said:


> There are lots of different brands out there, mine has Kia on the label and is a gift from a valeter pal. Autoglym what? They make many different products.


Sorry I meant like a autoglym wax ?


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## fossyant (17 Aug 2020)

New back box on order. Wish me luck trying to undo the bolts at the joint. I do have a gas burner to assist, but the exhaust has only been on the car 18 years.


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## screenman (17 Aug 2020)

Adam4868 said:


> Sorry I meant like a autoglym wax ?



The wax is good, but it is certainly not as tough as a ceramic coating, or any other paint sealant, completely different type of thing. Coat it then wax it for maximum protection, not the other way around, I dewax my car before applying a sealant.


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## kennycl (17 Aug 2020)

I've attached a tow bar for the bike rack! It was an effort, half the back of the car had to come off. A couple of holes that should have been threaded needed re-taping. O finished wondering if it had been worth paying someone £300 to do it!


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## cosmicbike (18 Aug 2020)

fossyant said:


> New back box on order. Wish me luck trying to undo the bolts at the joint. I do have a gas burner to assist, but the exhaust has only been on the car 18 years.


Good luck. I'm not looking forward to doing a full cat back change on the Volvo 240, that's been on there for 27 years...


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## fossyant (18 Aug 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Good luck. I'm not looking forward to doing a full cat back change on the Volvo 240, that's been on there for 27 years...



Strictly speaking, it shouldn't be too bad a job - enough room to get it in with the car jacked up on one side, but it's the nuts. If I can't then it will be local garage - they might moan I've got the back box, but it's been a bit of a faff getting the right one for a decent price - £80. The mid section is in good condition, so don't want to replace that, but you know what exhaust places are like.


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## Teamfixed (18 Aug 2020)

I changed the battery on my Peugeot 3008 recently.
Gone are the days of it being a simple clamp with maybe one bolt.
I ended up youtubing it. Many parts have to be removed/unclipped/reclipped


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## roubaixtuesday (18 Aug 2020)

Had a quick skim through the, frankly embarrassing and rank amateur work on display here, and realised you need the example of a pro to follow, so I modestly put forward a small example of my own craftsmanship:

Some compete numpty (), reversing too fast in a narrow lane to let a farmer through, took the casing off the wing mirror on clipping a tree branch.

It's hard to spot it's been repaired at all such is the quality, but please note:

1. Finest materials used - B&M own brand duct tape carefully chosen. 
2. Close colour matching for the right aesthetic
3. Wildlife conservation a must - arachnid habitat provided
4. Attention to detail - missing end part and slight chip to glass ignored entirely

8 months on, still in full operational order and bringing just as many admiring glances as it did before restoration.


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## cosmicbike (18 Aug 2020)

I await my parts, full cat back exhaust and I figured at the same time I'd replace the NSF lower suspension arm and bushings that has been rattling around for a bit. I'd sooner do them now than in January if they make it fail the MOT.


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## gbb (18 Aug 2020)

roubaixtuesday said:


> Had a quick skim through the, frankly embarrassing and rank amateur work on display here, and realised you need the example of a pro to follow, so I modestly put forward a small example of my own craftsmanship:
> 
> Some compete numpty (), reversing too fast in a narrow lane to let a farmer through, took the casing off the wing mirror on clipping a tree branch.
> 
> ...


Top trumped by me doing the same 'ish to a Bentley Continental. 
Former MD, someone clipped his in the car park , he asked me to temporarily secure the flapping bits till he got it to the garage. I obliged in a similar fashion, a little embarrassed given the car.


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## Drago (22 Aug 2020)

Finally armed the correct tools I serviced my XC90 today.

All went well, except while checking the oil level afterwards I managed to break the dipstick. This necessitated removing the dipstick tube to extract the remains, which was fortunately straight forward.

New dipstick on the way!


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## Phaeton (22 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> Finally armed the correct tools I serviced my XC90 today.
> 
> All went well, except while checking the oil level afterwards I managed to break the dipstick. This necessitated removing the dipstick tube to extract the remains, which was fortunately straight forward.
> 
> New dipstick on the way!


Resist resist, you must resist!


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## cosmicbike (22 Aug 2020)

I'd poke fun @Drago but we've all done something similar no doubt...

2 packages have arrived for me, so the Ovlov will be getting some love when I get some time off work. Exhaust is rotted through in at least 3 places on both middle and rear boxes, plus all the joining pipes. SWMBO is not impressed, so hopefully before long we will return to the wafting silence which is far more appropriate for a girl of her age (the car, not SWMBO...)


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## Phaeton (22 Aug 2020)

Well since the RH arrived I haven't been able to get it to run right, timing was miles off, but it was still overfueling massively, plugs were sooting up, so today back to complete basics. Rocker cover off to check no stuck valves & the tappet gaps, happy to report all good on that front, interesting to have to remember from over 40 years ago the last time I did the valves on a Pinto. Had to buy a new set of feeler gauges AND then had to take the angry grinder to them 






Next I went over the timing again, then took the top off the brand new Weber to make sure the float wasn't sticking, lost the smallest R clip they could use, found it, then needed 4 hands to get it back, asked wife to come help, she tried & promptly lost the R clip luckily found it for the 2nd time. She then managed to load up the clip into the pliers, I managed to hold the shaft & washer in place, she then handed me the pliers & got the R clip back it, it was worse than open heart surgery. But still got banging & popping back through the carb, in desperation I said to her, I'll go get a new set of plugs, it won't be that but have to try something different, put new plugs in, fires up & runs loverly ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGH!!!! 

Carb still needs a little tweaking, it's booked in for a rolling road on Friday so still may take it for the sake of £60, then I know it's all good.


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## cosmicbike (22 Aug 2020)

Gotta love a pinto. The 1600 in the Capri has been tickled a little, big valves (bigger than the GT head) and a funky cam. Goes well, but I have a 2 ltr Pinto on the engine stand which is slowly getting stripped and rebuilt. With a suitable cam and tubular exhaust maybe 110 bhp, that will do in the Capri. Until I find the right V8 and gearbox....


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## Phaeton (23 Aug 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Gotta love a pinto. The 1600 in the Capri has been tickled a little, big valves (bigger than the GT head) and a funky cam. Goes well, but I have a 2 ltr Pinto on the engine stand which is slowly getting stripped and rebuilt. With a suitable cam and tubular exhaust maybe 110 bhp, that will do in the Capri. Until I find the right V8 and gearbox....


Maybe I'm getting old, but these old carb engines with adjustable valves are not for me anymore, if I decide to keep the car then I think I'll be looking for a Zetec to replace it with, 1.6L with 120bhp starts on the button no maintenance apart from oil, better economy.


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## cosmicbike (23 Aug 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Maybe I'm getting old, but these old carb engines with adjustable valves are not for me anymore, if I decide to keep the car then I think I'll be looking for a Zetec to replace it with, 1.6L with 120bhp starts on the button no maintenance apart from oil, better economy.



Lots of the Capri owners do exactly that, for the same reasons. At the moment I enjoy the tinkering, and my only inclination for engines is V8 stuff, so maybe, just maybe I'll find a Windsor for sensible money in the future.


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## Phaeton (23 Aug 2020)

We have a Lexus 4.0L VVT V8 engine sat in the garage, all the adapter plates & a M3 3.0L gearbox all to go into my son's E36(?) drift car once he's done for this year with his track days.


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## cosmicbike (26 Aug 2020)

Best time to replace an exhaust system on your Volvo 240? That's right, after a 12 hour night shift
Full cat back, old one off with help from jigsaw and a club hammer. New one just dropped into place. Just under 3 hours start to finish, and the Volvo is quiet for once.


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## fossyant (26 Aug 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> Best time to replace an exhaust system on your Volvo 240? That's right, after a 12 hour night shift
> Full cat back, old one off with help from jigsaw and a club hammer. New one just dropped into place. Just under 3 hours start to finish, and the Volvo is quiet for once.



My back box has arrived, can you pop round next week to fit it ?


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## cosmicbike (27 Aug 2020)

Today, engine mounts. Well 1 of them, before rain stopped play. I was wondering why the mighty red block was moving so much, I suppose the mount being broken in half doesn't help matters. One down, one to go.


----------



## Kajjal (27 Aug 2020)

Just put new floor mats in front and rear


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## screenman (27 Aug 2020)

Cleaned windscreen.


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## Phaeton (28 Aug 2020)

After getting the Pinto running to a point where it ran, I took it to an expert, he checked compression, 180,175,190,185 then stripped & cleaned the carb, reset the timing again then generally played with the mixture & timing on the rollers, it made an extrapolated 107bhp at the crank which isn't bad for an old Pinto that came out of the factory with only 97bhp even though it's supposed to be standard.


----------



## cosmicbike (29 Aug 2020)

At last, the engine in the Volvo is now secured with 2 decent mounts. The drivers side one I did this morning, whilst still in 1 piece, was very deformed. Getting the new one in needed 2 jacks and a few choice words to get things lined up. The sump no longer rests on the crossmember, happy days.


----------



## Drago (29 Aug 2020)

Headlamps refitted, service message reset, all lights etc checked ready for Wednesday's MOT.


----------



## tyred (29 Aug 2020)

Had the Peugeot in for test this afternoon. The new Cat certainly fixed the emission readings, CO and HC now less than half of what is allowed for year of manufacture. 

My main concern was the slightly crusty nature of some it's nether regions but that wasn't even mentioned. Just one failure - there was a broken front coil spring. I'm irritated that I hadn't spotted this but am surprised it didn't rattle or affect how the car drove.

I did have spare front struts in my bit box so I have now fitted them this evening. I was going to swap the springs over to my shocks as I know them to be in perfect condition but I discovered something rather alarming that the tester obviously missed - the spring pans are worn/rusted through where the spring sits on them. It probably wouldn't have been very long until I had self lowering suspension. I saw that happen to an Audi 80 once.

Being a glutton for punishment I did swap the strut top mountings as I had replaced them about two years ago and the steering bearings on the replacement struts felt a bit gritty. Peugeot in their infinite wisdom made their top strut mountings to have about 3,000 individual parts which separate out and need re-assembled in precisely the correct order. Then the three studs which locate the struts to the suspension tower are asymmetrical so need to be offered up in one position only. If you study how it all goes together Peugeot seem to have set this up with offset strut positions, presumably to alter suspension geometry in a way that needs a much better engineer than me to understand but I have a suspicion the front suspension on Peugeot's baby had more sophistication built in than appears at first glance.

When I had the struts out it seemed prudent to wire brush the underside of the strut towers and give it a fresh coat of underseal. It is so much fun getting a face full of dirt, rust and flakes of old paint and it is at such times that even the most ardent classic car fan considers signing the lease agreement on a new Dacia 

While I was underneath I decided to change the oil as it was slightly overdue.

Now all I have to do is to book a re-test. Sadly they will be back-dating the test cert to March which I feel is a bit unfair as it wasn't my fault that I couldn't do my original re-test for several months as the test centres were closed due to Coronavirus and I had to have a full test done again anyway


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## Phaeton (30 Aug 2020)

tyred said:


> Now all I have to do is to book a re-test. Sadly they will be back-dating the test cert to March which I feel is a bit unfair as it wasn't my fault that I couldn't do my original re-test for several months as the test centres were closed due to Coronavirus and I had to have a full test done again anyway


That doesn't make sense, the car is effectively out of test, so when it passes it's from the date it passes surely, the RH I have on the drive ran out of MOT in 2106, when I take it next week, they're not going to back date it till then?


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## DaveReading (30 Aug 2020)

Phaeton said:


> That doesn't make sense, the car is effectively out of test, so when it passes it's from the date it passes surely, the RH I have on the drive ran out of MOT in 2106, when I take it next week, they're not going to back date it till then?



I suspect the difference is that the OP's "re-test" doesn't have to be paid for again, whereas a new test from scratch will cost.


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## tyred (30 Aug 2020)

Phaeton said:


> That doesn't make sense, the car is effectively out of test, so when it passes it's from the date it passes surely, the RH I have on the drive ran out of MOT in 2106, when I take it next week, they're not going to back date it till then?



The way it works is that the first test is due on the 4th anniversary of the date of registration and each subsequent test will be due on the same date each year. 

Test it after the due date and it will be backdated to the that date. If you tested it 360 days after the due date you would only have a valid test for a few days before doing it again. 

I don't feel it's fair. I really hoped they'd give from the actual date of test this time as the reason people have cars out of test is purely because the test centres were closed for several months which is not the customer's fault but the customer is being made pay for it. As usual.


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## tyred (30 Aug 2020)

DaveReading said:


> I suspect the difference is that the OP's "re-test" doesn't have to be paid for again, whereas a new test from scratch will cost.


It did have to be paid for. Re-tests are half price.


----------



## Phaeton (30 Aug 2020)

Still think you are incorrect if the car was brand new you get 3 years but because of the covid that was extended to 3.5 years. Now it has been tested it will get a new test date from the day it passes


----------



## figbat (30 Aug 2020)

Phaeton said:


> ...if the car was brand new you get 3 years but because of the covid that was extended to 3.5 years.


Only if the first MOT fell within the MOT extension period (3 April - 1 August). There is not a blanket extension to all MOTs and all new cars.

EDIT - just noticed that @tyred is in Ireland, so different rules to UK. Above is for GB.


----------



## Profpointy (30 Aug 2020)

tyred said:


> The way it works is that the first test is due on the 4th anniversary of the date of registration and each subsequent test will be due on the same date each year.
> 
> Test it after the due date and it will be backdated to the that date. If you tested it 360 days after the due date you would only have a valid test for a few days before doing it again.
> 
> I don't feel it's fair. I really hoped they'd give from the actual date of test this time as the reason people have cars out of test is purely because the test centres were closed for several months which is not the customer's fault but the customer is being made pay for it. As usual.



That doesn't make sense surely ? I had a car which had been off the road for 6 years - by the logic above when I got an MOT it would have immediately expired 5 years previously. Presumably I'd have needed 5 consecutive retests before I was up to date


----------



## Drago (30 Aug 2020)

Phaeton said:


> That doesn't make sense, the car is effectively out of test, so when it passes it's from the date it passes surely, the RH I have on the drive ran out of MOT in 2106, when I take it next week, they're not going to back date it till then?


A car that passes its MOT from today has a years new ticket from that date. It is not backdated to when the last ticket expired, regardless of the circumstances. 

The garage are either ignorant, talking our their arrisses, trying to pull a flanker, or all three.


----------



## tyred (30 Aug 2020)

Drago said:


> A car that passes its MOT from today has a years new ticket from that date. It is not backdated to when the last ticket expired, regardless of the circumstances.
> 
> The garage are either ignorant, talking our their arrisses, trying to pull a flanker, or all three.


In Ireland it will be backdated to whenever it was due and you will not get a year from date of test unless you test it on the due date or up to 3 months prior to ths due date assuming it already has test.


----------



## Drago (30 Aug 2020)

Sorry, sometimes forget that not everyone lives in Midsomer.


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## Phaeton (30 Aug 2020)

tyred said:


> In Ireland it will be backdated to whenever it was due and you will not get a year from date of test unless you test it on the due date or up to 3 months prior to ths due date assuming it already has test.


So what happens to a car in the situation mine is, it was due its first MOT in November 2016 it wasn't taken & stored in a garage, I bought it & now it's ready for a test, it's going next week?


----------



## tyred (30 Aug 2020)

Phaeton said:


> So what happens to a car in the situation mine is, it was due its first MOT in November 2016 it wasn't taken & stored in a garage, I bought it & now it's ready for a test, it's going next week?




They would backdate it to Nov 2019 so you would need to test it again in November 2020. 

It is the same with "road" tax. It always runs from the first of the month. Tax your car on the 31st and you will have wasted a month's tax.


----------



## fossyant (2 Sep 2020)

Started to change the back box - it WAS nice and dry - hissing it down now. Blasted both exhaust joint nuts/bolts with the little gas burner, which made removal straight forward. Mid section was propped up with a bungee, and back box came appart.

Now, 18 years on the car - getting the rubber hangers off the back box hooks was a nightmare. The rust had stuck them on. Lots of wriggling and eventually they came off, me rather damp by now. New back box just slipped on.

Son gone out for a couple of nuts and a gasket and we should all be done.


----------



## fossyant (2 Sep 2020)

Son couldn't get the nuts or gasket (wire mesh type) so I cut the nuts off the old backbox and reused the gasket with assembly paste then assembled.

Turn car on, blowing. Not from the backbox joint, but the mid silencer. The jiggling had opened up a gap. Currently sealed and curing, but I guess its a new mid section, hence why you usually replace both. Oh well.


----------



## fossyant (3 Sep 2020)

No unexpected noises from the exhaust this morning !


----------



## Pale Rider (3 Sep 2020)

Topped up the washer bottle on my new to me CMax.

First time I've opened the bonnet since I bought the car late last year, not that I've been anywhere what with lock down and being poorly.

Thought about checking the tyre pressures, but there's something in the handbook about having to reset the automatic pressure sensor.

Looks a bit complicated, so might do that another day.


----------



## fossyant (3 Sep 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> Topped up the washer bottle on my new to me CMax.
> 
> First time I've opened the bonnet since I bought the car late last year, not that I've been anywhere what with lock down and being poorly.
> 
> ...



My son's uses the ABS sensors to detect if the air pressure might be low which seems less problem prone to the pressure sensing valves.


----------



## Pale Rider (3 Sep 2020)

fossyant said:


> My son's uses the ABS sensors to detect if the air pressure might be low which seems less problem prone to the pressure sensing valves.



I recall reading something about an early Renault system costing hundreds to fix if it went wrong - which it often did.

I'll admit to liking a lot of the gadgets on the new car, but one or two do seem to be more trouble than they are worth.

The auto heating/ventilation system still baffles me, despite several attempts to understand it.

I have another expense on the horizon.

I've managed to mislay one of the keyless entry keys.

Looks like a replacement will be best part of £200.


----------



## Drago (3 Sep 2020)

fossyant said:


> My son's uses the ABS sensors to detect if the air pressure might be low which seems less problem prone to the pressure sensing valves.


Indeed. Most manufacturers have gone to indirect monitoring systems that work in this manner, and they actually work very well. The direct monitoring systems were notoriously problematic and the sensors fragile.


----------



## fossyant (3 Sep 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> I recall reading something about an early Renault system costing hundreds to fix if it went wrong - which it often did.
> 
> I'll admit to liking a lot of the gadgets on the new car, but one or two do seem to be more trouble than they are worth.
> 
> ...



Check the fridge for the key 👅

I quite like the auto feature on my heating system - was always a worry as everything (vents etc) have a little servo that switches where the air comes out from - needn't have worried, the car is 18 years old and all works still.


----------



## Pale Rider (3 Sep 2020)

fossyant said:


> Check the fridge for the key



Ho-ho.

The sodding key will be in here somewhere because the car was parked in the back yard when I mislaid it.


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## Illaveago (3 Sep 2020)

I washed both our cars yesterday when it was raining . It saves having to wash the suds off . 
I got the garage to do the MOT on our car when I bought it in the end of June . The first MOT would have been due in October .


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## Pale Rider (3 Sep 2020)

Illaveago said:


> I washed both our cars yesterday when it was raining . It saves having to wash the suds off .



I do that for the same reason.

Our respective neighbours probably think we are nuts.


----------



## Illaveago (3 Sep 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> I do that for the same reason.
> 
> Our respective neighbours probably think we are nuts.


We are using less water. Just one bucket of shampoo water and no pre or post washing . 

Mind you trying to chamois it off is a bit difficult !


----------



## Pale Rider (3 Sep 2020)

Illaveago said:


> We are using less water. Just one bucket of shampoo water and no pre or post washing .
> 
> Mind you trying to chamois it off is a bit difficult !



I find speed is the key there, just wring the chamois out quickly as I go along.


----------



## figbat (3 Sep 2020)

I also wash in the rain. Rain water is generally soft and we live in a hard water area so letting the rain rinse off the car means no water marks. Unless of course there’s one of those Sahara winds that drops dust on everything,


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## Profpointy (3 Sep 2020)

figbat said:


> I also wash in the rain. Rain water is generally soft and we live in a hard water area so letting the rain rinse off the car means no water marks. Unless of course there’s one of those Sahara winds that drops dust on everything,



I too wash my car in the rain. Well, strictly speaking, the rain washes the car all by itself


----------



## gbb (3 Sep 2020)

fossyant said:


> Son couldn't get the nuts or gasket (wire mesh type) so I cut the nuts off the old backbox and reused the gasket with assembly paste then assembled.
> 
> Turn car on, blowing. Not from the backbox joint, but the mid silencer. The jiggling had opened up a gap. Currently sealed and curing, but I guess its a new mid section, hence why you usually replace both. Oh well.


While exhausts seem much better quality than years ago, i long since gave up just replacing an odd section, just do the lot. There have been several cars where i replaced the back box....only to have the middle or front box fail a few weeks later. 
The combination of the stress the old box takes while bludgeoning everything apart...plus the increase in pressure the new section subjects the old sections to, sees the old parts off in a lot of cases (as described by an exhaust fitter years ago)


----------



## Gunk (3 Sep 2020)

Illaveago said:


> I washed both our cars yesterday when it was raining . It saves having to wash the suds off .
> I got the garage to do the MOT on our car when I bought it in the end of June . The first MOT would have been due in October .



I hate to admit this but I don't think I've washed a car myself for at least 5 years. I Hoover them out myself about once every 6 weeks or when they start to smell! and have them washed at local hand car wash about every 6 weeks.

Bikes and motorcycles however, I do enjoy cleaning and detailing.


----------



## Drago (3 Sep 2020)

I'm dreading the day the exhaust starts to go on my XC. Its the original pipework and still pretty decent, but its the quad pipe version unique to that ttim level and a new one is a grand for the parts.

Conversely, MIJ near Birmingham will made a near replica of the original in stainless for £640 fitted, so I think that's where my cash would go.


----------



## Phaeton (3 Sep 2020)

Well the RH arrived a couple of weeks ago, but it's on it's way to a new home tomorrow.


----------



## tyred (4 Sep 2020)

I changed oil and filter on the 205. Noticed fan belt was slightly loose so tightened that. Topped up windscreen washer. Made small tweaks to exhaust mounting bracket as the exhaust occasionally knocked on bodywork when taking off. 

The heater resistor pack for the Skoda had arrived in the post so I fitted that. Managed to drop one one of the screws holding the passenger side airbag into the nether regions of the dashboard but they're M6 so easy to replace using a spare from my jar of random nuts and bolts. Incredible to think that a garage said this car wasn't worth fixing. I've only spent 30 or 40 notes on bits and pieces and applied a bit of ingenuity to repair the gear linkage rather than buy the part. It's ready for the road now whenever I need it. I will never fall in love with it but I can't find any rust, engine and gearbox are good and I expect it would give years of service. It's the 1.2 3 cylinder motor so should be economical too although no ball of fire. Amazing what people throw away.


----------



## Drago (4 Sep 2020)

What they meant to say was, "we can't make a profit put of fixing it for you."


----------



## cosmicbike (5 Sep 2020)

Felt like new car day yesterday. Grace, the 27 year old Volvo 240 estate, has been running rough since bought her in January. Logical fault finding has slowly been leading to replacing engine control parts, none of which cost the earth, and if no change then I have spares. I tested the Mass Airflow Sensor back in March and it was all good, so didn't change (new is very expensive). After chaning the crank position sensor last week I disconnected the MAF and she ran well, but very rich, so picked up a used good MAF on ebay. Chucked it in last night and she is like a new car, perfect 800rpm idle, excellent pickup and super smooth. Happy days


----------



## Phaeton (6 Sep 2020)

Middle of the F1, got a call from the son, have a look on the net he says & see if the BMW 3.0L diesel auxiliary belt does the water pump, never mind as I start to look, yes it does the temperature has just shot up, so I missed the 2nd half of the race as I had to get in the truck & go recover him. He was due at work at 4pm we got there at 4:20pm so not too bad.


----------



## Gunk (6 Sep 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Middle of the F1, got a call from the son, have a look on the net he says & see if the BMW 3.0L diesel auxiliary belt does the water pump, never mind as I start to look, yes it does the temperature has just shot up, so I missed the 2nd half of the race as I had to get in the truck & go recover him. He was due at work at 4pm we got there at 4:20pm so not too bad.



If it's an E46 the plastic expansion tank fails. Ours went once when we were on holiday, steam everywhere!


----------



## Phaeton (6 Sep 2020)

Gunk said:


> If it's an E46 the plastic expansion tank fails. Ours went once when we were on holiday, steam everywhere!


Not sure it's a 2002 I never get the hang of the E numbers, but it's definitely the belt, minutes before he heard a noise then it went flying out the side of the the car


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## Gunk (6 Sep 2020)

If it's a 2002 3 Series it'll be an E46, they were a very good car, I loved mine.


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## Phaeton (6 Sep 2020)

Gunk said:


> If it's a 2002 3 Series it'll be an E46, they were a very good car, I loved mine.


5 Series, I know that much, he as another couple of 3 Series, both 1998, I think they are E36's maybe, possibly,


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## Gunk (6 Sep 2020)

E39, very good cars. That was the golden age of BMW


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## tyred (6 Sep 2020)

Feeling inspired by gaining a nice shiny new test cert, I washed the 205 and gave it a coat of polish, cleaned and hoovered the interior, polished the dashboard and other interior plastics with GT-85 which brings cheap, tacky '80s French interior plastics up like new. The seats didn't seem dirty but I tried some instant valet stuff in an aerosol and there is definitely a difference. Amazing how well it cleaned up really after 25 years and 221,000 miles. I must try something to restore colour to the very faded bumpers and oddly the rear window winder handles have gone grey too.

While I was cleaning it, I was sitting in the back seat and looking at the ashtray on each door and thinking "how quaint!" A sign of the chain-smoking era that it was designed in - a personal ashtray for each rear seat passenger - why deny your teenage children the right to have somewhere to flick their cigarette ash while you drove them to school? Modern cars don't seem to have ashtrays in these politically correct times.


----------



## cosmicbike (7 Sep 2020)

tyred said:


> While I was cleaning it, I was sitting in the back seat and looking at the ashtray on each door and thinking "how quaint!" A sign of the chain-smoking era that it was designed in - a personal ashtray for each rear seat passenger - why deny your teenage children the right to have somewhere to flick their cigarette ash while you drove them to school? Modern cars don't seem to have ashtrays in these politically correct times.



Dreadful isn't it. My Volvo has a cigar lighter, most of these modern motors just have a 12v socket!


----------



## Phaeton (9 Sep 2020)

New project arrived last night on the back of the truck,







then donor for new project on the back of the truck






Then finally on the drive, however we have other things to sort before work can commence, the drift car needs work to reattach the diff to the chassis. But before that have to finish off installing the new windows in the bedroom.


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## Gunk (9 Sep 2020)

I bet the neighbours love you


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## Phaeton (9 Sep 2020)

Gunk said:


> I bet the neighbours love you


Surprisingly they do, who fixes anything that goes wrong on the street?


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## cosmicbike (10 Sep 2020)

Gunk said:


> I bet the neighbours love you





Phaeton said:


> Surprisingly they do, who fixes anything that goes wrong on the street?



My driveway looks like that quite often with either the Volvo or Capri in bits, on ramps or getting welded. Funnily enough my neighbours are fine with it, and I get to fix things for them too....


----------



## Phaeton (10 Sep 2020)

We picked the MX5 up yesterday from a little lock-up in Wigan, before we could get it loaded we had to move a MK3 Capri, he then showed us inside the lock-up, a very nice MK1 Escort both a MK1 & MK2 Capri both almost completed, along with a lot of other stuff,


----------



## Gunk (10 Sep 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> My driveway looks like that quite often with either the Volvo or Capri in bits, on ramps or getting welded. Funnily enough my neighbours are fine with it, and I get to fix things for them too....



we all do it now and again


----------



## Phaeton (10 Sep 2020)

An Abba stand, only other one I have seen in use


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## Gunk (10 Sep 2020)

Phaeton said:


> An Abba stand, only other one I have seen in use



they’re a great bit of kit, I’ve had mine for years


----------



## cosmicbike (12 Sep 2020)

Yesterday I took one rear wheel off the Volvo in an attempt to clean off 27 years of ingrained iron. Not a chance. When I asked SWMBO which wheel she thought I'd cleaned she pointed to the wring one
Anyway, I noticed some of the underseal coming adrift whilst under there, so this morning Grave had her bum in the air, rear wheels off and arches brushed out. In my wisdom I removed the mud flaps, shearing the 3 very rusty retaining screws. Installed rivnuts instead, and no she's back on all 4 with nice arches, on the inside at least.


----------



## PeteXXX (14 Sep 2020)

I finally got around to change the mirror indicator on my Jazz.
Bit of a phaff getting the mirror glass off intact, then the plastic cowl clips.
Four electrical connectors and two Hex screws to change the led indicator, then reverse the procedure to clip it all back together but not before de-spidering the area!! 

And a bonus ¾ hour listening to the new release of Goats Head Soup.. 👍🏼


----------



## fossyant (14 Sep 2020)

My son made some car ramps from timber a few weeks ago. They are very good and I've used them twice now - saves jacking the car up.


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## Phaeton (15 Sep 2020)

Yesterday evening was quite busy, I was plodding along quite merrily removing stuff to get the MX5 engine & gearbox out of the donor MX5, when my son turned up & decided to help, things then speeded up & quite quickly the engine & box was taken out of the car, albeit with a lot of gearbox oil all over the driveway. We were then stood deciding on the best course of action to get the existing engine out of the kit when his mate who is a professional mechanic turned up. All hell seemed to break loose at that point, within the next couple of hours, the kit engine was removed & replaced with the one we'd just taken out of the MX5 along with a clutch change, although working in the dark by phone & torch is not good.


----------



## Phaeton (21 Sep 2020)

Bit further on with the kitcar, unfortunately backwards, started by getting rid of the shell






Then I started with






Then replace the shocks & springs with new ones






Then eventually ended with











Gearbox change tomorrow, then the build can actually start by revering what I have done tonight


----------



## cosmicbike (22 Sep 2020)

Finally got around to replacing the front lower suspension arm bushes on the Volvo over the past couple of days. Nightmare to make the new bushes fit the arm, I know they should be a tight interference fit, but I don't need my Zeus book to know that a bushing measuring 34.8mm OD is not going into a hole measuring 34mm ID..
Spent some time adjusting diameters with files and dremel, then it all went together like magic. No more rattles and bangs every time I go over a pothole or drain, wonderful.


----------



## tyred (26 Sep 2020)

The wheels on the Skoda were pretty rusty. I removed them today and cleaned them up a bit and gave them a coat of paint. It's not done properly I know as I didn't remove the tyres but it tidies things up a bit. Car actually looks pretty good now I think (apart from being bland and having a face that only it's designer could love). Just needs a good wash and a bit of polish. When I had the wheels off I noted that the gaiter things which protect the rear shocks have self-destructed but it's possible to do DIY versions (practice from MKI Golf ownership where they failed in the same way - what have VW learned in 50 years?). That black trim stuff on the doors/B post is starting to blister up and peel off too. Seems to be some sort of vinyl wrap stuff. I'll live with it.





If I wasn't so tight I'd buy a set of wheel trims

Bodywork seems to be genuinely completely rust free although the exhaust system looks to be in it's twilight years.


----------



## Phaeton (26 Sep 2020)

I spent 9 hours in the workshop finding the floor, the workbench & space on my shelves, I've listed 20 items on Fleecebay which I think somebody may buy & thrown lots of other stuff I just know somebody out there wants/needs but too much hassle to deal with. The scrap lads who come around in their transits had a field day, there was 6 piles of stuff collected through the day, the lad who dropped lucky on the 6 alternators & 5 starter motors was over the moon.


----------



## raleighnut (27 Sep 2020)

tyred said:


> The wheels on the Skoda were pretty rusty. I removed them today and cleaned them up a bit and gave them a coat of paint. It's not done properly I know as I didn't remove the tyres but it tidies things up a bit. Car actually looks pretty good now I think (apart from being bland and having a face that only it's designer could love). Just needs a good wash and a bit of polish. When I had the wheels off I noted that the gaiter things which protect the rear shocks have self-destructed but it's possible to do DIY versions (practice from MKI Golf ownership where they failed in the same way - what have VW learned in 50 years?). That black trim stuff on the doors/B post is starting to blister up and peel off too. Seems to be some sort of vinyl wrap stuff. I'll live with it.
> View attachment 549292
> 
> 
> ...


Sooner have the 205.


----------



## tyred (27 Sep 2020)

raleighnut said:


> Sooner have the 205.


Me too. Whoever styled that must have had a few too many Praga the night before.


----------



## Illaveago (27 Sep 2020)

tyred said:


> The wheels on the Skoda were pretty rusty. I removed them today and cleaned them up a bit and gave them a coat of paint. It's not done properly I know as I didn't remove the tyres but it tidies things up a bit. Car actually looks pretty good now I think (apart from being bland and having a face that only it's designer could love). Just needs a good wash and a bit of polish. When I had the wheels off I noted that the gaiter things which protect the rear shocks have self-destructed but it's possible to do DIY versions (practice from MKI Golf ownership where they failed in the same way - what have VW learned in 50 years?). That black trim stuff on the doors/B post is starting to blister up and peel off too. Seems to be some sort of vinyl wrap stuff. I'll live with it.
> View attachment 549292
> 
> 
> ...


That black plastic vinyl will come off with a heat gun . The remaining sticky stuff will come of with white spirit and some work , it should be the same colour as the car underneath .


----------



## Drago (27 Sep 2020)

Ordered some poly strut bar bush inserts for my XC90. And easy fit, by all accounts. We'll have to see how they perform.


----------



## tyred (27 Sep 2020)

Illaveago said:


> That black plastic vinyl will come off with a heat gun . The remaining sticky stuff will come of with white spirit and some work , it should be the same colour as the car underneath .



Does seem to be the case although it would look a bit odd I think with body coloured B posts as they all seem to have black there.


----------



## Drago (27 Sep 2020)

How about remove the failing drcals and redo them in satin black spray paint?


----------



## Illaveago (28 Sep 2020)

tyred said:


> Does seem to be the case although it would look a bit odd I think with body coloured B posts as they all seem to have black there.


You could start a new trend in colour coding .
I personally can't stand all the black plastic trim that manufacturers insisted on sticking everywhere. It was a right pain to clean and keep black . I'm glad to say that my newer car has the absolute minimum .


----------



## keithmac (28 Sep 2020)

3 hours in yesterday, pulled AWD coupler out and managed to remove gearbox seal, went to fit new one and wrong fxxcking size..

I had first beer in 3 weeks after that.

Ordered genuine seal today so my nights are going to be laid under car after work to get it all back together.

Made a brace for the PTU and will conver it to stud and nut fitment so not a complete waste of time..


----------



## Illaveago (28 Sep 2020)

keithmac said:


> 3 hours in yesterday, pulled AWD coupler out and managed to remove gearbox seal, went to fit new one and wrong fxxcking size..
> 
> I had first beer in 3 weeks after that.
> 
> ...


A bit of nostalgia there! I can remember days of lying underneath a car . What I hated the most was trying to weld or grind in that position and having sparks bouncing around and going into my ear !


----------



## keithmac (28 Sep 2020)

Yeh I've had hot grinding shrapnel down the ear on many occasions!, not nice when you can hear it sizzling..


----------



## Illaveago (30 Sep 2020)

Our Kia Venga has got an ESP warning light come up on the dash . I thought I would check to see if other Kia owners have had similar problems and what the reason might be . It seems as though the garages have used a" suck it and see " approach and fitted new steering columns which didn't seem to cure the problem . I did find a couple of causes which I may have to investigate . Battery low! Could be as the battery is the original on a 11 plate . Battery earth contact . Brake pedal switch .
My original thought was the ABS rings so I have got a few Suck it and Sees to perdue.
It seems as though the car has become jealous of the attention my new car is getting .


----------



## fossyant (30 Sep 2020)

Check the ABS rings - although that warning usually comes up at speed - mine had cracked, and didn't show up other than at 60 mph, where the sensor can then detect the tiny difference in the gap between the teeth - just couldn't sense it at lower speed. Easy to see when under the car and turning the wheel.


----------



## Drago (30 Sep 2020)

If its abs rotors then the light is likely go off with the ignition and reset til next time. If its sensors, or something on the electronic side, itll likely be permanently illuminated, on at all times with the iginition. Slightly more advanced code readers will read ABS systems (I use iCarsoft V2).


----------



## cosmicbike (30 Sep 2020)

Replaced both tailgate hinges on the Volvo today, the old ones were split along their length and held together with a mixture of silicone sealant and gaffer tape. Also made new wiring looms for each side, so I now have functioning central locking on the tailgate, and (hopefully, as yet untested) a working heated rear screen.
Rear light clusters next, and then I'll turn my attention to the heated seats, which are somewhat less than heated at present. Getting the seats out is easy enough and it would seem that stripping down to find the faulty heat pad is reasonably straightforward. One for a rainy day I think.


----------



## keithmac (30 Sep 2020)

Some systems use a magnetic strip that is part of the wheel bearing rather than a tone wheel, sneeze near it and its knackered..

Managed to get the seal in the gearbox and all built up, 20 miles so far leak free. 

Horrible job, took an hour just to press the seal in, had about 6 inches of room between PTU and gearbox.


----------



## Phaeton (30 Sep 2020)

When & picked up the subframes & suspension from the powder coaters, then set about putting the new 22 polybushes in, got 3 in then noticed I'd put the wrong 3 in so had to take them back out again & put the right ones in Arrrrrrrrrrgh






The marks are dirt where they were stood outside the guys works


----------



## Drago (30 Sep 2020)

Powdercoat. Poly bush. Words like that are just filthy, dirty, porn!


----------



## Drago (1 Oct 2020)

And proof that poly bushes are sheer pornography...






Strut bar/top engine mount poly inserts. Very good value to buy after shopping about, and tightens up the autobox changes a treat. Tres sexy!

Less than 10 minutes to fit and a noticeable improvement. Happy as a happy thing on laughing gas.


----------



## Phaeton (1 Oct 2020)

@Drago something for the weekend Sir?


----------



## Drago (1 Oct 2020)

Phaeton said:


> @Drago something for the weekend Sir?
> 
> View attachment 550159
> 
> ...


Oh my. That caused structural failure of my Y fronts. Its pictures like that which make me proud to be a man.


----------



## Illaveago (1 Oct 2020)

Oh what fun ! I jacked the Venga up, removed both wheels and crawled around on the floor. I removed the ABS sensors and had fun cleaning out each of the teeth on the reluctor and then cleaned the sensors off with white spirit .I did a road test later and the light didn't come on . I'm not sure if I have fixed the problem yet as the light has been a bit intermittent today .


----------



## Phaeton (1 Oct 2020)

Did you clean the actual sensor as well they are magnetic & attract metal particles which stop them working


----------



## Illaveago (2 Oct 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Did you clean the actual sensor as well they are magnetic & attract metal particles which stop them working


Yes . I wiped them off before refitting .


----------



## Phaeton (2 Oct 2020)

Illaveago said:


> Yes . I wiped them off before refitting .


Hopefully you've cracked it then, failing that the sensors can be tested with a meter


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## Illaveago (2 Oct 2020)

I'm not going to do anything thing with the car today as the weather is just to glorious to be lying down next to it . 
I tried my cheap fault code reader and found Err! Same as me scratching my head ! That was before I worked on the car .


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## fossyant (2 Oct 2020)

My son's got a third party reader for his Skoda - it's a copy of the VW one. It can do all sorts of stuff. He's altered the throttle response, activated the 'clock sweep' on the dash on start up, tweaked his alarm and so on. He's fitted an induction kit in the last week, which means you can hear the turbo spin up more.


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## Illaveago (2 Oct 2020)

My fault code reader is only a cheap Draper one but has been useful for detecting faults .
Some years ago our old Corsa Easytronic car refused to start and came up with an "F" on the gear indicator. Never seen that before .
I put the fault code reader on and it came up with camshaft sensor circuit. I went to my local Vauxhall dealer for a camshaft position sensor.
When they heard that I had an "F" come up alarm bells started ring ! Could be the gearbox actuator! £1000 plus re programming . "It's got to come in for us to sort out ! "
I had to hire a recovery truck to deliver my car to the garage . The garage kept my car in so that they could connect it up to their diagnostic equipment. They kept it for a day and fixed it .
The cause ? Camshaft position sensor ! 
It only cost me £200 +!


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## Drago (2 Oct 2020)

iCarsoft V2 Volvo-SAAB here. As well as engine codes it does transmission, SRS, brakes, aircon, all the gubbins. It will clear codes on all systems, and can configure new modules, force regen, calibrate new components, set base settings. Not _quite _as comprehensive as VIDA-DICE, the volvo dealer system, but it runs it close and is far, far more convenient to use. Well chaffwd for £136.


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## keithmac (2 Oct 2020)

I use FORScan on our Kuga with the Ford VCM2 adapter.

Much better than Fords own dealer IDS software which I've also been unfortunate enough to use.

FORScan does module calibration, firmware updates, fault codes, data logging etc.

The VCM2 was £150 BUT Ford wanted £100+vat just to read 2 geabox codes..


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## MrGrumpy (2 Oct 2020)

Was fighting with rear discs and pads on the wife’s Mini Cooper the other week! First time I’ve come across the fact you have to turn and push the piston back in. Much sweating and all sorted albeit I’ve split the dust gator on one side . That’s gonna hurt at some point!
Coming to the conclusion it’s easier to pay someone to sort this shoot out .


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## gbb (2 Oct 2020)

MrGrumpy said:


> Was fighting with rear discs and pads on the wife’s Mini Cooper the other week! First time I’ve come across the fact you have to turn and push the piston back in. Much sweating and all sorted albeit I’ve split the dust gator on one side . That’s gonna hurt at some point!
> Coming to the conclusion it’s easier to pay someone to sort this shoot out .


Many years ago I had a Lancia Beta and spent hours (without the luxury of a manual) trying to get the piston back...and failed completely. I often wonder if that was one of the early examples of wind in pistons and I just didnt realise it at the time.


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## MrGrumpy (2 Oct 2020)

Was massive pita , till I read up on it. First time for everything i suppose


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## Drago (2 Oct 2020)

Rear calipers almost always wind in, exception being some Citroens like the Xantia that had the handbrake operating on the front wheels.


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## MrGrumpy (2 Oct 2020)

Yep and then it’s either clockwise or anti clockwise !! Every days a school day! Just need to sort out new tyres and get the MOT done, wish it never got extended ! It just got put off !!


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## Phaeton (3 Oct 2020)

Drago said:


> Rear calipers almost always wind in, exception being some Citroens like the Xantia that had the handbrake operating on the front wheels.


Yep & as mentioned below they were left handed threaded on the passenger side


MrGrumpy said:


> Yep and then it’s either clockwise or anti clockwise !! Every days a school day! Just need to sort out new tyres and get the MOT done, wish it never got extended ! It just got put off !!


I don't think you are the only one, lot's got put off, some very unsafe cars I would expect as well


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## screenman (3 Oct 2020)

A piston wind back tool is very handy to have, full service time next week on my Octavia which I will be doing myself.


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## raleighnut (3 Oct 2020)

I used to work on SAAB cars, the mk11 99 had wind in calipers on the front wheels (the early ones had a drum brake inside the front discs) 
Loads of cars used to fail the MOT on ineffective handbrake (it's on the front wheel not the rear) and excessive lever travel (the handbrake is set with a 15 thou feeler gauge on the actuating arm, 6 clicks on the handle is factory standard)


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## MrGrumpy (3 Oct 2020)

screenman said:


> A piston wind back tool is very handy to have, full service time next week on my Octavia which I will be doing myself.


Bought some of Amazon , made of cheese !! Ended up with long nose pliers and some grunt.

Have another problem with restricted performance alarm, now and again appearing on the Disco 4. Never had a cheap fix yet on that car so preparing at worst for cracked manifold or maybe just an air leak from a hose :/


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## screenman (3 Oct 2020)

MrGrumpy said:


> Bought some of Amazon , made of cheese !! Ended up with long nose pliers and some grunt.
> 
> Have another problem with restricted performance alarm, now and again appearing on the Disco 4. Never had a cheap fix yet on that car so preparing at worst for cracked manifold or maybe just an air leak from a hose :/



Buy cheap buy twice, I think ours came from Mac years ago.


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## MrGrumpy (3 Oct 2020)

Indeed you do! Too much of a rush at the time


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## Phaeton (4 Oct 2020)

Subframes built up yesterday luckily I could just get each one in the workshop












Then today put the diff into the rear subframe go the wheels on, then the EXO to make an expensive wheelbarrow, added the steering rack to the front subframe, then the wheels on at which point, the heavens really opened so didn't get a picture, other than after making a shorty


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## Richard A Thackeray (7 Oct 2020)

fossyant said:


> My son's got a third party reader for his Skoda - it's a copy of the VW one. It can do all sorts of stuff. He's altered the throttle response, activated the 'clock sweep' on the dash on start up, tweaked his alarm and so on. He's fitted an induction kit in the last week, which means you can hear the turbo spin up more.



I keep thinking about a fault-reader/re-setter

My Octavia's well over 9 years old (June '11 registration, I bought it in March '12)
It's still garage serviced, as it was yesterday
(crikey, that synthetic 5W/30 oil's expensive!!)

Granted yes, I could do the oil/filters myself, but there'd still be the service light illuminated

Plus, there's the peace of mind, that as I ask them to road-test it, they make pick up on an issue that I've not noticed - due to sheer familiarity (maybe due to simple 'wear & tear')

We've used the same garage for over 6 years now, so we trust them
(they also look after wifes C-HR, & daughters car too)


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## Phaeton (7 Oct 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> (crikey, that synthetic 5W/30 oil's expensive!!)
> 
> Granted yes, I could do the oil/filters myself, but there'd still be the service light illuminated


Yes oil is expensive which since if comes from the same dinosaur juice which is at an all time low is surprising isn't it.

As far as the service light is concerned that's an easy one, I'd happily bet there's lots of 2nd hand cars out there that have it reset just before being sold having told the new buyer it's been serviced & all that's been done is a reset.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpDGwKAC_nc


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## fossyant (7 Oct 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> I keep thinking about a fault-reader/re-setter
> 
> My Octavia's well over 9 years old (June '11 registration, I bought it in March '12)
> It's still garage serviced, as it was yesterday
> ...



I have a generic code reader for my Nissan and it came with an app called Torque Pro for reading and resetting codes. It won't do an air bag warning but all Nissans have magic button and key switches to run diagnotics and clear codes. I have an occasional air bag light from the drivers side airbag. The ruddy connector is right in line to be kicked by rear passenger's feet. Once a year blast with contact cleaner sorts it.


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## Richard A Thackeray (7 Oct 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Yes oil is expensive which since if comes from the same dinosaur juice which is at an all time low is surprising isn't it.
> 
> As far as the service light is concerned that's an easy one, I'd happily bet there's lots of 2nd hand cars out there that have it reset just before being sold having told the new buyer it's been serviced & all that's been done is a reset.
> 
> View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpDGwKAC_nc





Thanks!!

If only the _Bulb Failure Warning Light_ would disappear now
(all lamps/bulbs are lit, & have been since it first started to appear)

Diagnostics don't state which bulb it is
I've pulled a few, but they look okay

I guess I to pull some more, or wait for the culprit to fail?


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## Drago (7 Oct 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> I keep thinking about a fault-reader/re-setter
> 
> My Octavia's well over 9 years old (June '11 registration, I bought it in March '12)
> It's still garage serviced, as it was yesterday
> ...


I can heartily recommend the iCarsoft V2.0. Not quite as good as a dealer computer or clone, but it runs them surprisingly close, and its quicker and simpler to use.


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## tyred (24 Oct 2020)

The wiper arms on my Peugeot had flaking paint and surface corrosion so I removed them today, cleaned/sandpapered them and gave them a coat of black paint. Amazing the difference it has made.


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## tyred (1 Nov 2020)

I started my 1991 VW pickup for the first time in 18 months today and drove it around the yard a bit. 

VW's good old naturally aspirated 1588cc Umwelt diesel. Started first attempt after waiting for the glowplug light to go out but my God was it smokey until it warmed up a bit. Diesel engines have come a long way since the '80s.

I really must look for a replacement front wing and bumper and make a start on sorting this thing out next year.


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## Drago (1 Nov 2020)

I can recall the Umwelt diesel getting a piece in New Scientist back in the 80's, it was so economical.


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## cyberknight (1 Nov 2020)

helped to make a few hundred of these yesterday


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## tyred (1 Nov 2020)

Drago said:


> I can recall the Umwelt diesel getting a piece in New Scientist back in the 80's, it was so economical.



It genuinely is if driven properly. They had a very short power band, the secret is to change gear when required and stay in the power band. Try to rev out through the gears like you can with a petrol engine won't make it accelerate any faster - just create more noise and waste fuel.

60MPG+ is perfectly possible in a MK2 diesel Golf and all done without any electronics. Not very good for traffic light grand prix though.


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## Phaeton (7 Nov 2020)

Son in law sent a Whatsapp saying that daughters car has a leaking radiator & should he put Radweld in it, I said NO! Asked why he wasn't putting a new one on, he said they couldn't afford it until payday, so I said I'd buy it & they could pay me back at the end of the month. Found a new one on Fleecebay cheaper than the rest so ordered it. 

Got it up in the air & took the under engine cover off, but before draining the coolant I thought I'd just check they'd sent the correct one, I've been burnt that way before, imagine my surprise when instead of a radiator the box had an Air Con condenser inside FFS!

Rang them up only to be told that was the only one they had & it must have been booked into stock wrong, although I suspect they could get one but not for the price they'd sold it for, they're taking it back at their expense so we need to find another.


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## Drago (8 Nov 2020)

I was going to suggest somewhere local to refurb the old rad - there are still plenty of places about that do it - but with the lockdown and the like that's probably not going to fly.


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## Phaeton (8 Nov 2020)

Didn't think they bother refurbing them these days, plastic outer, alloy inner, 2 local firms we had closed down years ago, not like the old days where you could cut the offending tube & solder the ends up. 

Once spent a couple of hours doing this only the leave a set of pliers on to of the radiator on starting which fell into the fan & straight into the newly repaired radiator, senior moments even in my late teens.


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## fossyant (8 Nov 2020)

Son's changing the high bulbs on his Fabia 2015 with projector bulbs. I've just left im too it as the passenger side one is a pig - can get the bulb in, but there is no room to twist it - he's got smaller hands than me. I've tried and my hand is aching.

My car's original mats are still looking good, but the driver's side one isn't as 'stiff' as it was and bunches up a little. Just fixed it by sticking some spare mat to the underside of the original with hot melt. 

Son had all his wheels off yesterday giving his car a good clean. Down side of his 'Domino's deliveries' locally is there are quite few small lanes, which at this time of year are full of farm mud. His car was a mess from Thursday's deliveries.


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## fossyant (8 Nov 2020)

He's done it now - he'd fitted the spare projector headlamp retaining ring to to the bulb, not the high beam - that's why one wouldn't go in - both slightly different.


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## dave r (8 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Son's changing the high bulbs on his Fabia 2015 with projector bulbs. I've just left im too it as the passenger side one is a pig - can get the bulb in, but there is no room to twist it - he's got smaller hands than me. I've tried and my hand is aching.
> 
> My car's original mats are still looking good, but the driver's side one isn't as 'stiff' as it was and bunches up a little. Just fixed it by sticking some spare mat to the underside of the original with hot melt.
> 
> Son had all his wheels off yesterday giving his car a good clean. Down side of his 'Domino's deliveries' locally is there are quite few small lanes, which at this time of year are full of farm mud. His car was a mess from Thursday's deliveries.



I always have that problem with changing bulbs, my hands are too big, when I had my KA I once changed a bulb, when a bulb went on its replacement, a Hyundai Getz, I just took it down Halford, too much faf to do it myself.


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## fossyant (8 Nov 2020)

dave r said:


> I always have that problem with changing bulbs, my hands are too big, when I had my KA I once changed a bulb, when a bulb went on its replacement, a Hyundai Getz, I just took it down Halford, too much faf to do it myself.



It's really tight in his Fabia. Mine and MrsF's Nissans are OK. A mate had a Honda that needed the front bumper taking off for headlight bulbs.


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## figbat (8 Nov 2020)

My BMW 130i required the airbox to be removed to change a headlight lamp. By contrast the Volvo V50 was a tour de force of thoughtful design, with a pin that was removed allowing you to take the whole headlight out, then take it in the warm/dry to replace the lamp(s) at your leisure.


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## Drago (8 Nov 2020)

Same on the XC90 - 2 pins, one conmector, the entire headlamp is off in seconds.


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## Richard A Thackeray (8 Nov 2020)

figbat said:


> My BMW 130i required the airbox to be removed to change a headlight lamp. By contrast the Volvo V50 was a tour de force of thoughtful design, with a pin that was removed allowing you to take the whole headlight out, then take it in the warm/dry to replace the lamp(s) at your leisure.



Like the V50, my Octavia is easy
One plastic nut to be unscrewed (vibration proof), & a metal lever, then the whole headlamp comes out
Only issue with mine is, that somewhere along the roads, there's the rubber cover that fits over the access port, as it's missing from the offside unit


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## Hicky (10 Nov 2020)

Renault Clio headlights, you have to have claw hands and vision that can astound superman, The XC70 drivers side is only ever so slightly better which is a shock considering the size of the thing. My old Focus was an absolute joy to do basic things on.


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## MrGrumpy (10 Nov 2020)

My Discovery 4 is an absolute breeze to remove the headlights. About the only thing !


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## Drago (10 Nov 2020)

MrGrumpy said:


> My Discovery 4 is an absolute breeze to remove the headlights. About the only thing !


They were such a breeze on the D2 that any passing tom,dick or harry would steal them


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## Salad Dodger (11 Nov 2020)

I changed the headlamp bulbs on my VW T4 campervan about 12 years ago, and the scars are still evident on my knuckles........


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## Pale Rider (12 Nov 2020)

For some years EU regs have stipulated that bulbs must be changeable at the roadside.

That's why some cars come with a cheap cross head screwdriver as part of the sparse tool kit.


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## screenman (12 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Son's changing the high bulbs on his Fabia 2015 with projector bulbs. I've just left im too it as the passenger side one is a pig - can get the bulb in, but there is no room to twist it - he's got smaller hands than me. I've tried and my hand is aching.
> 
> My car's original mats are still looking good, but the driver's side one isn't as 'stiff' as it was and bunches up a little. Just fixed it by sticking some spare mat to the underside of the original with hot melt.
> 
> Son had all his wheels off yesterday giving his car a good clean. Down side of his 'Domino's deliveries' locally is there are quite few small lanes, which at this time of year are full of farm mud. His car was a mess from Thursday's deliveries.



Something I have wondered about for a while, who pays the insurance for delivery drivers like your son?


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## fossyant (12 Nov 2020)

screenman said:


> Something I have wondered about for a while, who pays the insurance for delivery drivers like your son?


He has business use cover on his policy.


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## Pale Rider (12 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> He has business use cover on his policy.



I have 'class 1 business use' which covers me for journeys made in connection with my employment, over and above commuting to a single place of employment.

But I am not covered for commercial travelling - working as a sales rep - or for doing deliveries, which insurance companies call 'hire and reward'.

Some companies now market hire and reward policies as 'courier insurance' or even more plainly 'food delivery insurance'.

Those types of policies will usually cost more than simple business insurance, particularly food delivery.

That's because an assumption is made delivering food will involve a lot of night time driving when, statistically, more accidents happen despite lower traffic volumes.

Worth double checking the lad is covered for exactly what he is doing.


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## Phaeton (12 Nov 2020)

At least he's got some insurance, most (anecdotally) part time delivery drivers don't have it


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## Pale Rider (12 Nov 2020)

Phaeton said:


> At least he's got some insurance, most (anecdotally) part time delivery drivers don't have it



I'm no fan of Uber, but I understand they require proof of hire and reward insurance before they sign up a driver.

No idea if there's a monitoring process for subsequent years.

My employers check annually, which I comply with not least because they won't pay expenses otherwise.

I agree it's unlikely your local takeaway owner's brother-in-law who helps out with deliveries at the weekend is fully insured.


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## figbat (12 Nov 2020)

The consequences go beyond whether or not expenses are paid. If you have an accident and it turns out you do not have the requisite cover, your insurers are still likely to be liable to the third party but may then come after the policy holder to cover their costs. You will then also face the prospect of having had insurance withdrawn or cancelled, making it difficult to get future insurance cover.

Of course this is all moot if by "business cover" it was meant the appropriate hire and reward cover. In general terms though, "business cover" generally means the type that @Pale Rider describes - effectively being able to drive to places other than your normal place of work in the course of your employment. For me this includes things like driving to the airport for a business flight, driving to a customer's site, driving to an alternative office in my business etc. It does not cover me making deliveries or carrying goods for sale.


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## fossyant (13 Nov 2020)

How easy is it to replace the front suspension top mounts ? My son's car just failed on the near side mount (2015 Fabia) - never had one fail on my cars ever. Just thinking suspension bolts might be a pig to undo - he's keen to do it himself, I'm more keen to drop it in the local garage !


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## MrGrumpy (13 Nov 2020)

I wouldn’t say they would be hard , but it’s the usual what you need to take off to actually do it and what’s bloody seized on lol


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## screenman (13 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> How easy is it to replace the front suspension top mounts ? My son's car just failed on the near side mount (2015 Fabia) - never had one fail on my cars ever. Just thinking suspension bolts might be a pig to undo - he's keen to do it himself, I'm more keen to drop it in the local garage !



Last time I replaced some was 25 years or more ago, spring compressor needed.


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## fossyant (13 Nov 2020)

Spring Compressor - yup - don't really fancy that but they aren't expensive. We have a blow torch so can deal with aged nuts (used it on my back box and MrsF's anti-roll bar links). Also depends upon how big a socket is needed for the lower strut bolts. His mates probably have half the kit anyway.


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## MrGrumpy (13 Nov 2020)

Big lever bar for the wheel bearing nut ! Might need to take that off to gain access to the strut ?


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## Bazzer (13 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Spring Compressor - yup - don't really fancy that but they aren't expensive. We have a blow torch so can deal with aged nuts (used it on my back box and MrsF's anti-roll bar links). Also depends upon how big a socket is needed for the lower strut bolts. His mates probably have half the kit anyway.


Spring compressors are OK, but you just need to be very careful with them. Tighten each side progressively and evenly. 
Although I will freely admit, personally I have found it a buttock clenching process, and I have breathed a huge sigh of relief when they have released on to the replacement fitting.


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## tyred (14 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> How easy is it to replace the front suspension top mounts ? My son's car just failed on the near side mount (2015 Fabia) - never had one fail on my cars ever. Just thinking suspension bolts might be a pig to undo - he's keen to do it himself, I'm more keen to drop it in the local garage !



I have never worked on anything that new so maybe things have changed but you will probably need a 7mm Allen key to stop the shock from turning when trying to undo the top nut. Most cars seem to use a 7mm Allen key for this purpose for some reason and it's not a size you find in most sets of Allen keys. 

A standard 13/16" plug spanner usually found in a typical socket set (of the type in the picture) usually fits the top mounting nut of a VW so you can remove the rubber bung thing which is inside the plug spanner to grip the spark plug and put the Allen key down through the centre of it and use a large ring spanner on the hex part of the plug spanner. If you're really unlucky it will be a 22mm nut.


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## Rockster57 (15 Nov 2020)

MOT time so had a poke around on my Mum's car for her. Rear brakes were a horror story. The one on the left is not too bad but the one on the right in the photo is cringe-worthy. The picture doesn't do justice to the extent of the damage to the disc surface. To be fair, I drove it myself and never noticed anything amiss with the feel of the brakes. Just shows, you need to get down in the dirt and take a proper look! However, all's well that ends well. New replacements fitted and fronts checked out and found to be healthy and another 12 months on the MOT ticket. Sorted!


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## cosmicbike (15 Nov 2020)

Rockster57 said:


> MOT time so had a poke around on my Mum's car for her. Rear brakes were a horror story. The one on the left is not too bad but the one on the right in the photo is cringe-worthy. The picture doesn't do justice to the extent of the damage to the disc surface. To be fair, I drove it myself and never noticed anything amiss with the feel of the brakes. Just shows, you need to get down in the dirt and take a proper look! However, all's well that ends well. New replacements fitted and fronts checked out and found to be healthy and another 12 months on the MOT ticket. Sorted!
> 
> 
> View attachment 558200
> ...



I presume the kitchen knife is a specialist tool for the job!


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## rockyroller (15 Nov 2020)

last week, I put a new battery in my Son's '94 Camry. we swapped cars so he could take mine on a trip to Vermont w/ his girlfriend. while I had it I did some poking around & decided that would be an appropriate thing to do, with winter coming & the battery being 4 yrs old. also did the engine air cleaner & cleaned inside the throttle body a little. saw him yesterday & he reports it seems to be starting & running a bit better than before his trip


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## Rockster57 (15 Nov 2020)

cosmicbike said:


> I presume the kitchen knife is a specialist tool for the job!



Haha, well spotted! 
Nothing to do with it being a rough neighbourhood round here  
You are right, that knife was essential to the task! The new pads were shinkwrapped in what must have been ballistic grade plastic film! I had to resort to the cutlery drawer


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## fossyant (15 Nov 2020)

My son has decided to tackle the top bushings. We can't get any for order from Euro Car Parts so have ordered some FAG ones from Germany. £20 delivered for 2. He's bought the suspension winding tool also. Looks like just a 21/22mm nut on the top followed by what ever other bolts we need to do near the wheel hub (drop link and strut bolts I assume). Down side is he's off the road for a few days.


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## Drago (15 Nov 2020)

rockyroller said:


> last week, I put a new battery in my Son's '94 Camry. we swapped cars so he could take mine on a trip to Vermont w/ his girlfriend. while I had it I did some poking around & decided that would be an appropriate thing to do, with winter coming & the battery being 4 yrs old. also did the engine air cleaner & cleaned inside the throttle body a little. saw him yesterday & he reports it seems to be starting & running a bit better than before his trip


Years ago a mate of mine was asked to service his Dad's car. Upon receiving the vehicle he reckoned the oil was pretty clean, so he decided not to do the job and keep the oil for his own use.

Some weeks later his Dad's car died a death when the sump plug fell out. My chum was then left with the option of taking the blame, or owning up to being a thief.

Moral of the story - never work on a relatives car!


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## keithmac (15 Nov 2020)

^^ What did he do, own up?.


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## rockyroller (16 Nov 2020)

Drago said:


> Moral of the story - never work on a relatives car!


if I was a better Dad, my kids would be better mechanics


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## Drago (16 Nov 2020)

keithmac said:


> ^^ What did he do, own up?.


Nah, he took it on the chin and meekly apologised for not having done up the sump plug properly.


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## Richard A Thackeray (16 Nov 2020)

Lent daughters b/f my old trolley jack, to lift his FreeLander (a replacement for his Golf)

It's a proper, heavy-duty one, 3 tons, & the saddle goes to about 16" off the ground
(from my Land Rover owning days)

She was telling him it was too heavy for him to carry, & to let me
So............ he tried to lift it over his head, to prove it, & the 'saddle' dropped off, missing his toes (in Vans) by inches
He put it down quickly!!


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## fossyant (16 Nov 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Lent daughters b/f my old trolley jack, to lift his FreeLander (a replacement for his Golf)
> 
> It's a proper, heavy-duty one, 3 tons, & the saddle goes to about 16" off the ground
> (from my Land Rover owning days)
> ...



That's a big beastie - I've only got a 2 tonne one.


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## Richard A Thackeray (16 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> That's a big beastie - I've only got a 2 tonne one.



Coped very easily with a 110CSW


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## Richard A Thackeray (16 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> That's a big beastie - I've only got a 2 tonne one.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The 110CSW, was the last Landie I owned
A '_Heritage'_, with the Td5 (green leather, & white faced instruments)



Sadly, I never got the 101FC, I wanted (although, I've driven them)


----------



## gbb (16 Nov 2020)

Not DiY at all but MOT day for my 2015 Astra, 66k miles.
I've been wondering about the brake pads, they're still the originals.
Pass with 3 advisories, 2 front tyres getting close..I knew about that...and front pads getting quite close. That answers that then.
Very clean u underneath the tester remarked. Not sure why, I dont do anything special underneath.


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## Richard A Thackeray (16 Nov 2020)

gbb said:


> Not DiY at all but MOT day for my 2015 Astra, 66k miles.
> I've been wondering about the brake pads, they're still the originals.
> Pass with 3 advisories, 2 front tyres getting close..I knew about that...and front pads getting quite close. That answers that then.
> Very clean u underneath the tester remarked. Not sure why, I dont do anything special underneath.



Time to replace stated items then

Is it worth replacing for safety?


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## gbb (16 Nov 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Time to replace stated items then
> 
> Is it worth not replacing for safety?


Absolutely. Tyres are not quite at the wear indicators, so maybe 2.5 mm depth. I watch them regularly....as well as my DILs car.
Brakes function well but I know they're not going to last much longer...they've lasted so well because I'm a sensible driver, light brake use as a result of reading the road and traffic. I know a guy who didn't get 10k out of his pads...his driving style was quite different .


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (16 Nov 2020)

gbb said:


> Absolutely. Tyres are not quite at the wear indicators, so maybe 2.5 mm depth. I watch them regularly....as well as my DILs car.
> Brakes function well but I know they're not going to last much longer...they've lasted so well because I'm a sensible driver, light brake use as a result of reading the road and traffic. I know a guy who didn't get 10k out of his pads...his driving style was quite different .


I think it was early last year, I was taking wife/f-in-law & 2 family friends to Yeadon Airport, along a very wet M62
The traction control light was flickering at 55MPH, due to insufficient tread-depth to clear the water
They were on a similar depth to yours

Changed within the week
Mindst you, they had been on for over39.000miles, at that depth


----------



## fossyant (16 Nov 2020)

gbb said:


> Absolutely. Tyres are not quite at the wear indicators, so maybe 2.5 mm depth. I watch them regularly....as well as my DILs car.
> Brakes function well but I know they're not going to last much longer...they've lasted so well because I'm a sensible driver, light brake use as a result of reading the road and traffic. I know a guy who didn't get 10k out of his pads...his driving style was quite different .



Dare I say it I'm still on my original discs - no heavy braking needed !


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (16 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Dare I say it I'm still on my original discs - no heavy braking needed !



Second set on mine
First fronts at about 50,000 (& rears 'skimmed')
However, wife was using it constantly, & travelling to Cardiff, Bristol, Newcastle on average 3 times a week, so a lot of 'rush hour' motorway miles

It had a full set & all pads at about 140,000

(it's a July 2011 registration, I bought it in early March 2012, with about 7.000 miles recorded, & now it's on about 147,700)


----------



## cosmicbike (17 Nov 2020)

Does gaffer tape count as DIY? If it does, I stuck the rear number plate lamps back on yesterday....
Really must get around to a proper fix


----------



## gbb (17 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Dare I say it I'm still on my original discs - no heavy braking needed !


Me too


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (17 Nov 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> I think it was early last year, I was taking wife/f-in-law & 2 family friends to Yeadon Airport, along a very wet M62
> The traction control light was flickering at 55MPH, due to insufficient tread-depth to clear the water
> They were on a similar depth to yours
> Changed within the week
> Mindst you, they had been on for over39.000miles, at that depth



I have all the paperwork for servicing/tyres, etc.... since the day I bought it
I did think about checking dates/mileage for tyres/disc renewals, but decided approximations were enough


----------



## Rockster57 (17 Nov 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> The 110CSW, was the last Landie I owned
> A '_Heritage'_, with the Td5 (green leather, & white faced instruments)
> View attachment 558465
> 
> ...



Fellow 110SW owner here Richard. Just the job for transporting a couple of bikes along with all my kit on camping holidays.


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (17 Nov 2020)

@Rockster57

I sold mine, back in 2010


Curiously enough, I saw it for sale a few months afterwards in '_LRM_'

Quite apart from the NAS lighting I had fitted to the front being replaced with standard (not sure about the back - maybe it had returned to the 'glow-worms'?), it had miraculously gained a full/complete service history

A friend looked after it for me (agricultural engineer, but he did it at home). so no paperwork


Maybe a Land Rover/other 4x4 thread ought to be started??


----------



## MrGrumpy (17 Nov 2020)

My Discovery 4 has just failed its MOT !  Needs new brake pipes front to back, both sides . Also got a restricted performance warning as well, which pops from time to time. Gonna be an expensive month.


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (17 Nov 2020)

MrGrumpy said:


> My Discovery 4 has just failed its MOT !  Needs new brake pipes front to back, both sides . Also got a restricted performance warning as well, which pops from time to time. Gonna be an expensive month.



oh dear!!
Any good independants near you, rather than the main dealer?


----------



## Drago (17 Nov 2020)

Rockster57 said:


> Fellow 110SW owner here Richard. Just the job for transporting a couple of bikes along with all my kit on camping holidays.
> 
> View attachment 558548


D-Day recognition stripes?


----------



## fossyant (17 Nov 2020)

MrsF's 2012 Qashqai N-TEC+ just flew through it's MOT, sorry @MrGrumpy


----------



## MrGrumpy (17 Nov 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> oh dear!!
> Any good independants near you, rather than the main dealer?



Yep that is where it is at just now ! Found about them last year so switched from main dealer to them. Should get the car back tomorrow. Albeit cleared the fault on the RP, we shall see. Brake pipes are 4hrs labour so I`m good.


----------



## Archie_tect (17 Nov 2020)

Our 2008 Polo had to have new discs, after around 4 years, for its last MOT... due to lack of regular driving to keep them clean they'd rusted in the damp weather just enough to wear them prematurely + the drums liked to rust in if not moved every few days!


----------



## Rockster57 (17 Nov 2020)

Drago said:


> D-Day recognition stripes?



You are correct Drago 

Put them on for my visit to Normandy last year for the 75th D Day commemorations. Decided to keep them in place thereafter as a continuing tribute to all those who gave so much for our freedom. Likewise the poppy still proudly displayed at the front.


----------



## MrGrumpy (17 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> MrsF's 2012 Qashqai N-TEC+ just flew through it's MOT, sorry @MrGrumpy


Its flew trough all the MOTs until now, first failure at 8rs old. Its not a cheap car to keep going, but you need to spend the money.


----------



## Drago (17 Nov 2020)

My old tank is 12 and never had so much as an advisory.


----------



## fossyant (17 Nov 2020)

Drago said:


> My old tank is 12 and never had so much as an advisory.



Psst It's a LR, I'm surprised it's still going


----------



## Drago (17 Nov 2020)

It's an XC90. Once you've owned a few LR's you'll never go back (to LR's!)


----------



## Phaeton (17 Nov 2020)

Drago said:


> My old tank is 12 and never had so much as an advisory.


Our 2007 Rav4 is the same,


----------



## cosmicbike (17 Nov 2020)

Drago said:


> It's an XC90. Once you've owned a few LR's you'll never go back (to LR's!)



I've owned 2, and I'd gladly have another. (XC90's that is, never had a LR)


----------



## Drago (18 Nov 2020)

Having said that, my XC90 is throwing up a "Volvo On Call Service Required" message. I've scanned it with the V2 and it's the back up batteries in the built in car phone (remember them?) There are 2 at £70 each, or a whole new unit from Volvo at £400 plus fitting.

At those prices I won't be fiddling with it. Hell, the car phone still works fine, not that I ever use it, and pressing the button on the end of the stalk clears the message until the ignition comes on again so I'm going to live with it. But that's the first fault in 142,000 miles.


----------



## MrGrumpy (18 Nov 2020)

MOT passed , so that’s it for another year .


----------



## fossyant (22 Nov 2020)

Good deed of the day done. My brother called last night to see if I could look at his Kuga as the front and rear wash wasn't working. Fortunately the motor was spinning but no water coming through.

Blasted some hot water into the tank but that didn't make much difference. So..

Off with the wheel and about 15 clips to enable me to pull the wheel arch liner out of the way. Removed both pumps then pulled out the rubber washer on the tank. Larger pump (for headlamps) had no filter, but the smaller pump had a tiny filter on the rubber washer. It was gunked up.

All cleaned and reassembled the car. Took just over an hour. 

Saved my brother a lengthy garage visit. Only down side, his car was bloody filthy, which in turn left me filthy.


----------



## Phaeton (24 Nov 2020)

WIring anybody?


----------



## rockyroller (24 Nov 2020)

Daughter is driving 200 miles, in the rain, thru 3 states, to visit boyfriend for the US Thanksgiving. I can't talk her out of it. gotta give her car (which is registered to me) the once-over before she leaves Thursday am. jeez, kids these days ... I never tortured my parents like this ... cough, cough (but this year, she might be killing us when she gets home, due to the covid)


----------



## rockyroller (24 Nov 2020)

Phaeton said:


> WIring anybody?


reminds me of an old MG, a girlfriend's father was renovating. he said "take some pics of the wiring so I know what to do, when I re-wire it". she & I broke up before he ever renovated it. I was lucky on at least 1 count


----------



## fossyant (24 Nov 2020)

Two new suspension bushings arrived today for my son's Fabia. Only taken over a week...

Son made a start but we ran into a block with the strut top bolt. It needed a recessed 21mm spanner and an allen key to stop it spinning. Did antwhere have a 21mm spanner, no.

I opted to get him an early Xmas present, a cordless impact driver. That whizzed off both top nuts without any bother. He will use it though.

After a fair bit of banging my son finally freed the struts from the lower arm. I let him do all the crawling under the car.

Next issue, another 21mm recessed socket that wouldn't undo as the suspension strut span with it. Tried a few local places and couldn't find a 21mm spanner.

Back home, ordered a spanner from ebay.

Thought I'd give them one last go with the driver. Used a strap wrench from my bike box (for undoing air cans on the FS MTB) to hold the inner strut whilst whizzed the driver. PS used spring compressors first.

Bingo, off.

The side that failed had a noticeable clunk when you wriggled the rubber bushing. On disassembly, I noticed a washer that wasn't on the good side. Someone had bodged a repair to get through the previous MOTs (car is new shape Fabia 2015). 

Replaced both bushings. Ready to go back together after work tomorrow.

Hmm my son's 'I'm doing it myself to save money' has cost me £240 for two ten pound parts. Well I could have paid it to a garage, and we now have a few extra tools instead.

My son has a trial day at a local car tuners tomorrow (interview today) with the hope he might get an apprenticeship with them. This will suit him as he loves fiddling with cars and is quite 'techy'. He's been out of work a few months, and filling in with Domino's delivery.


----------



## fossyant (25 Nov 2020)

My son finished his trial day at the 'car tuners' and they said 'see you at 9am tomorrow'. Hopefully they like him ? I've worked for big companies where you get all sorts of employment contracts, so maybe this means he has a good chance at a job for a small business. He was mucking in with suspension upgrades, various 'tuning' re-maps, etc etc, and he was running arround closing up the shutters this evening when I collected him - possibly a good sign. He's buzzing though.

Extra tools collected today so my son set about re-assembling the front suspension (after work at about 7.30pm under lights). Front passenger side was a doddle, drivers side not, as the drive shaft is longer and at a shallow angle, so the sub frame was about 2 inches too high to get the strut back in (how we got it out ?). We both ran through various solutions with jacking up the strut, spring clamping, and eventually got it up enough to get the sub frame to slot in, just. Pig of a job - had it been my car, and my age - garage.

I was struggling crouching for so long. He's 20 and was determined. I'd suggested I would pay 2 weeks ago - it's actually cost me more in tools, but it's also given him great experience for his new job.

Anyway, it's done.

He messaged the 'boss' at the new place and he's said they have a MOT partner that can re-test the car (it's over the 10 days free re-test as the £6 part took so long - we did both sides so £20 incl post) so he can drive in to work tomorrow (local) and it will get tested.

I can see why my father (who was a really good car/bus/truck fitter) stopped doing his car's in his 50's (and my car) and went building planes for British Aerospace - it's not fun getting out from under a car (with my back).


----------



## MrGrumpy (26 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> My son finished his trial day at the 'car tuners' and they said 'see you at 9am tomorrow'. Hopefully they like him ? I've worked for big companies where you get all sorts of employment contracts, so maybe this means he has a good chance at a job for a small business. He was mucking in with suspension upgrades, various 'tuning' re-maps, etc etc, and he was running arround closing up the shutters this evening when I collected him - possibly a good sign. He's buzzing though.
> 
> Extra tools collected today so my son set about re-assembling the front suspension (after work at about 7.30pm under lights). Front passenger side was a doddle, drivers side not, as the drive shaft is longer and at a shallow angle, so the sub frame was about 2 inches too high to get the strut back in (how we got it out ?). We both ran through various solutions with jacking up the strut, spring clamping, and eventually got it up enough to get the sub frame to slot in, just. Pig of a job - had it been my car, and my age - garage.
> 
> ...



I’ve all but given up working on my cars these days. I help out my boys where I can and advise etc. I enjoyed working on cars , they were simpler but nowadays they seem harder. An example fuel filter housing is located underneath my car just in front of the fuel tank !! A serviceable part I mean wtf. Anyway it’s on the blink and needs swapped out. £100 part and an hours labour at the garage It’s a no brainer getting someone else to do it !


----------



## screenman (26 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Two new suspension bushings arrived today for my son's Fabia. Only taken over a week...
> 
> Son made a start but we ran into a block with the strut top bolt. It needed a recessed 21mm spanner and an allen key to stop it spinning. Did antwhere have a 21mm spanner, no.
> 
> ...



Crack the nut before compressing the spring, so not remove it completely of course until the spring is compressed.


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## Pale Rider (26 Nov 2020)

All this talk of MoTs reminds me of a tip I heard years ago.

MoT an older car in June, even if it means losing a few months of the previous one.

If you need to get out and get under, you can at least do it in the better weather.


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## DaveReading (26 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> I can see why my father (who was a really good car/bus/truck fitter) stopped doing his car's in his 50's (and my car) and went building planes for British Aerospace - it's not fun getting out from under a car (with my back).



Haha.

Trust me, some of maintenance tasks that aircraft designers leave for the poor airline mechanic fall into the same category: "WTF were they thinking?"

I can still remember several tasks from my time in the industry that only selected individuals would ever be asked to do, because they were flexible enough/had long arms/small hands/etc.


----------



## fossyant (26 Nov 2020)

screenman said:


> Crack the nut before compressing the spring, so not remove it completely of course until the spring is compressed.



He'd removed stuff before cracking it  Anyway the impact gun sorted it.


----------



## fossyant (26 Nov 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> All this talk of MoTs reminds me of a tip I heard years ago.
> 
> MoT an older car in June, even if it means losing a few months of the previous one.
> 
> If you need to get out and get under, you can at least do it in the better weather.



Mine has been January since new ! Brrrrr.
Now MrsF's is November (covid extension) Grrrr


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## Pale Rider (26 Nov 2020)

fossyant said:


> Mine has been January since new ! Brrrrr.
> Now MrsF's is November (covid extension) Grrrr



In a fine example of 'do as I say, not as I do', mine is due next month.

However, the only person who will be getting cold, wet, and miserable, is the mechanic I will pay to fix it.


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## gbb (26 Nov 2020)

DaveReading said:


> Haha.
> 
> Trust me, some of maintenance tasks that aircraft designers leave for the poor airline mechanic fall into the same category: "WTF were they thinking?"
> 
> I can still remember several tasks from my time in the industry that only selected individuals would ever be asked to do, because they were flexible enough/had long arms/small hands/etc.


When i talked to my dad, former airframe fitter in the RAF, i asked if he ever worked on fighters etc (he joined up when there were still a good few Spits, Mosqitoes etc around, but i suppose the same applies to modern aircraft)...noooooo he replied, give me Bomber Command any day, bloody fighters were so difficult to work on, even getting your hands in inspection plates was near impossible, you had to do everything by feel.


----------



## fossyant (26 Nov 2020)

gbb said:


> When i talked to my dad, former airframe fitter in the RAF, i asked if he ever worked on fighters etc (he joined up when there were still a good few Spits, Mosqitoes etc around, but i suppose the same applies to modern aircraft)...noooooo he replied, give me Bomber Command any day, bloody fighters were so difficult to work on, even getting your hands in inspection plates was near impossible, you had to do everything by feel.



There is something to be said for old landrovers ! Space to work.


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## Cletus Van Damme (27 Nov 2020)

I need to fit some front shock adsorbers to my Mazda 2 as they are shot. I'm tempted to replace the springs too, as it's 9 years old. There's such an array of cheap shock adsorbers that I have never heard of that I have a feeling that they're maybe sh1te. The only cheap brand I've heard of are QH. I can't find any information on them really, just they were taken over and probably cheap tat. I think common sense probably dictates spending almost double for KYB or Sachs. It doesn't look like that hard a job if the fasteners come off. It has pinch bolts on the lower part so the hub or whatever doesn't need to come off, like I've done on older cars years ago. I don't enjoy working on cars as much as I did when I was young, so I think spending more on better components is probably a wise choice.


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## Phaeton (27 Nov 2020)

If you have time Plusgas everything for a few days before


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## Cletus Van Damme (27 Nov 2020)

Phaeton said:


> If you have time Plusgas everything for a few days before



Yes I agree thanks I'll do that. It needs a CV joint replaced. I tried the other day, but could not shift the 32mm hub nut. I used to have a bit of scaffolding tube, but it's been lost in a house move. The breaker bar just would not budge it. I've toyed with the idea of getting a Dewalt Impact Driver/Wrench as I have batteries for my drill. The body of a decent one is £160, plus impact sockets. I'm tempted to just pay somebody as I'll hardy use it. Handy tool to have for suspension, but I'm getting too old and I really don't know what I'd use it for. I can't see replacing the dampers needing one hopefully..


----------



## Phaeton (27 Nov 2020)

It was a good day on the kitcar, I'd started the wiring got the sidelights, brake, fog & headlights working but was struggling with the indicators/hazards & the reverse. So with daylight & not working under a handheld floodlight started checking the fuses, all good but not getting power to the switch, so followed the harness only to find it went nowhere, but in daylight it was obvious where it needed to go, connected them together & now they worked. Similarly I'd missed a connector on the reverse, a bloody great big one that has 25 pins with only 12 being used, only to find that the reverse doesn't go through it. 

Next was to see if it would start, after a few attempts of nothing, brake cleaner down the throttle body had it starting but not running. Checked the fuel pipes to find I'd got them the wrong way around but still wouldn't run, didn't realise that unless the MAF was actually having air drawn over it it wouldn't work & would stop the engine running, connected the pipe & it runs lovely.


----------



## Phaeton (27 Nov 2020)

Cletus Van Damme said:


> Yes I agree thanks I'll do that. It needs a CV joint replaced. I tried the other day, but could not shift the 32mm hub nut. I used to have a bit of scaffolding tube, but it's been lost in a house move. The breaker bar just would not budge it. I've toyed with the idea of getting a Dewalt Impact Driver/Wrench as I have batteries for my drill. The body of a decent one is £160, plus impact sockets. I'm tempted to just pay somebody as I'll hardy use it. Handy tool to have for suspension, but I'm getting too old and I really don't know what I'd use it for. I can't see replacing the dampers needing one hopefully..


If it's the 18V one they are very good we have one, one you have it you'll be surprised how often you use it.


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## Cletus Van Damme (27 Nov 2020)

Phaeton said:


> If it's the 18V one they are very good we have one, one you have it you'll be surprised how often you use it.



Yes it's 18V. I think I'll bite the bullet. Thanks for the advice


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## Phaeton (28 Nov 2020)

Cletus Van Damme said:


> Yes it's 18V. I think I'll bite the bullet. Thanks for the advice


I think this is the one we have, https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-d...r-brushless-cordless-impact-wrench-bare/4660j will do most stuff, unless my lads mate has used his Milwaukee before on it, but that was £400+ I think.


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## fossyant (28 Nov 2020)

We got this:-

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kielder-kwt-002-12-drive-18v-brushless-impact-/


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## fossyant (29 Nov 2020)

Son's car passed MOT yesterday. Took it to the garage that does the MOT's for the company he's just started working for. Had to wait a bit as they squeezed him in. Didn't do a full test as they just inspected our work. Must have done a proper job as it was all fine. Can't believe someone bodged it to get through the MOT before we bought it.


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## fossyant (4 Dec 2020)

My son's now onto replacing his exhaust  Oh no, noisy one I can see. He's in the middle of shaping a pipe to match the original before fitting the replacement back box. He's cut the pipe and bent it to shape and is learning welding. His new employer is letting him use their welding kit - probably better practicing on something of your own that you can chuck in the bin if it all goes wrong.


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## Phaeton (4 Dec 2020)

fossyant said:


> His new employer is letting him use their welding kit - probably better practicing on something of your own that you can chuck in the bin if it all goes wrong.


Absolutely despite what our Educationalist tell us, we need people who can fix things & not just sit pushing buttons on keyboard every day


----------



## Phaeton (10 Dec 2020)

Work on the kitcar continues, last week's disaster was making brackets to mount the radiator, drilled & tapped holes only to find once filled with coolant & up to pressure it was coming back out, I'd drilled too deep, new radiator ordered only to arrive & the fan mountings were different so all new brackets had to be made. 

Once all fitted back together ran it up to temperature, only issue was the thermostat was stuck so chucked the coolant out  new one fitted yesterday & all is good. I've also been stripping the wiring out, removing things like electric window, central locking, heater, power steering pump wiring, SRS etc. After each wire removal making sure the engine still starts along with all the lights. Did okay apart from one wire which was the immobiliser telltale light.

Problem now is that running the engine up has revealed an issue that it has an oil leak from the rear crankshaft seal, so everything has the be removed again, frame removed to split the engine & gearbox, FFS!!


----------



## cosmicbike (10 Dec 2020)

Grace has been occupying some of my time. Nothing more than you would expect from a 27 year old car, windscreen washers stopped working, so pump removed and freed up, all good. Finally got around to sourcing and fitting the missing drivers door trim, so she looks more presentable.
On a trip to the dump the rear wiper stopped working, so that's next on the list to fettle. Need to keep things tip top, MOT next month...


----------



## Drago (12 Dec 2020)

Volvo's dashboard lit up with all kinds of strange warning lights threatening deathkill annihilation within seconds. Plugged in the iCarsoft V2 and it tells me some kind of yaw sensor relating to the stability system was out of calibration, and that in turn had caused the ABS to surrender. Cleared the fault, and Mrs D has done 40 miles in it for me today with no recurrence, so I'm hoping its a gremlin, a stray neutron from outer space, rather than an actual fault.


----------



## figbat (12 Dec 2020)

Send the wife out to test it - nice work.


----------



## Phaeton (12 Dec 2020)

So this his how the kitcar started at 8:30 this morning







This is how it was at 4:00 pm this afternoon






Doesn't look a lot different right, however in the middle there was this image of after the engine had been removed, rear crankshaft oil seal replaced before all going back in again.


----------



## Bazzer (12 Dec 2020)

Replaced my Golf TDI a couple of months ago with another Golf (GTE). The DAB reception is driving me nuts. 
Mrs B's Tiguan's DAB is brilliant, but this car 😡. I know the aerial is in the heated rear window and took the panels off the hatch back to look for signs of bad connectors or perhaps a previous rear dash cam, but zilch. So time for a rethink.


----------



## keithmac (12 Dec 2020)

fossyant said:


> Good deed of the day done. My brother called last night to see if I could look at his Kuga as the front and rear wash wasn't working. Fortunately the motor was spinning but no water coming through.
> 
> Blasted some hot water into the tank but that didn't make much difference. So..
> 
> ...



Seems a really common problem on the Kugas?, what washer fluid was he using?. 

Our Mk2 Kuga went straight through it's 4th MOT on Monday.


----------



## fossyant (12 Dec 2020)

keithmac said:


> Seems a really common problem on the Kugas?, what washer fluid was he using?.
> 
> Our Mk2 Kuga went straight through it's 4th MOT on Monday.



He said he'd accidentally mixed it (makes). TBH never had any issue myself and my car is nearly 19 years old. Might be because the filter is plastic and has tiny holes. His was gunked up badly with blue gunk. If you have to do it, it's the lowest 'pump - the bigger one is the lights. When you pull it out, the water should gush out, his didn't as the filter was blocked. You just have to pull the rubber stopper out and the filter comes out with it.


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## Gunk (12 Dec 2020)

Bazzer said:


> Replaced my Golf TDI a couple of months ago with another Golf (GTE). The DAB reception is driving me nuts.
> Mrs B's Tiguan's DAB is brilliant, but this car 😡. I know the aerial is in the heated rear window and took the panels off the hatch back to look for signs of bad connectors or perhaps a previous rear dash cam, but zilch. So time for a rethink.



Sounds like a fault, my GTD is perfect. I’m sure they have an amplifier for the aerial, check that.


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## Pale Rider (13 Dec 2020)

Bazzer said:


> Replaced my Golf TDI a couple of months ago with another Golf (GTE). The DAB reception is driving me nuts.
> Mrs B's Tiguan's DAB is brilliant, but this car 😡. I know the aerial is in the heated rear window and took the panels off the hatch back to look for signs of bad connectors or perhaps a previous rear dash cam, but zilch. So time for a rethink.



What age is the car?

Early factory DAB installations were poor whatever the make.

My 2017 Ford Cmax is pretty good, although it takes a few seconds to change channels - a known characteristic.

DAB transmission is still iffy in parts of the country.

In my case, some of Northumberland is a DAB free zone.


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## Bazzer (13 Dec 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> What age is the car?
> 
> Early factory DAB installations were poor whatever the make.
> 
> ...


65 plate.
Mrs B's car is a year younger and has never had any trouble picking up DAB. I know there are some dead spots, but where I live isn't one of them. Also, apart from occasional silences, her car has picked up DAB from Devon to Fife.


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## Gunk (13 Dec 2020)

My GTD is the same age and no problems with DAB reception


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## Drago (13 Dec 2020)

Just to upset you, my own car is a bit elderly so has a Nextbase DAB adaptor - the reception is superb!


----------



## tyred (13 Dec 2020)

The bearings in the 205's alternator were developing the squeal of imminent death. It probably is the original alternator so I can't complain. I did replace bushes at some point in the past. 

I considered getting it reconditioned or looking for an exchange unit then I had a brainwave. It's a Lucas alternator. I have a brand new Lucas alternator in the attic at home still in it's box. I believe it is supposed to fit an Austin Meastro. I had bought it to upgrade an old Ford tractor from dynamo to alternator years ago and then found something better to use instead.

I got it out and compared it to the one on the 205 and it was very, very similar. I changed the pulley and made a minor modification to the mounting bracket, changed from spades to screw-on terminals and it fits perfectly, runs silently and shows healthy charge when tested with the multimeter. All done in 40 or 50 minutes with no expenditure. Cars of the '80s and '90s are so DIY friendly


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## Bazzer (13 Dec 2020)

Drago said:


> Just to upset you, my own car is a bit elderly so has a Nextbase DAB adaptor - the reception is superb!


I am reminded of my own car's DAB inability every time I drive Mrs B's car. But thanks for the (not) sympathy. 
A replacement amplifier has been ordered via fleabay. An alternative would have been to swap the amplifier with that in Mrs B car and see if that worked, but fleabay was a better marriage alternative.


----------



## BianchiVirgin (13 Dec 2020)

Drago said:


> Just to upset you, my own car is a bit elderly so has a Nextbase DAB adaptor - the reception is superb!


I did that too in the XC70 but a Kenwood version, that bears and uncanny resemblance to the Nextbase one. Works well though.


----------



## Drago (13 Dec 2020)

I hid the antenna behind the top tint on the screen so its invisible. I was a bit dubious about how well it would work, but ive been blown away.


----------



## Gunk (13 Dec 2020)

Drago said:


> I was a bit dubious about how well it would work, but ive been blown away.


----------



## BianchiVirgin (13 Dec 2020)

Drago said:


> I hid the antenna behind the top tint on the screen so its invisible. I was a bit dubious about how well it would work, but ive been blown away.


Aye, top corner n/s of screen. Work great even in DAB poverty NI.


----------



## MrGrumpy (13 Dec 2020)

figbat said:


> Send the wife out to test it - nice work.


That’s what I thought


----------



## Drago (13 Dec 2020)

In my defence, she was doing a run to Costco so I just asked her to use my car instead.


----------



## yo vanilla (14 Dec 2020)

Since the pandemic we haven't put many miles on the cars, thus no need for anything for quite some time. In October I bled the brakes in the Jetta wagon (Golf Variant) and fitted the snow tires to all three cars. I'm sure I've got a few things coming up for the Audi..


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (16 Dec 2020)

Gunk said:


> View attachment 563222




A 'Wedge' TVR

The 420 & 450SEAC were beasties!


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (16 Dec 2020)

Not really DIY (about 15:00)
Only DIY, in that I did it, not the local car-wash

*Before




After

*

Not spotless, but it'll be at least 6 months since I last cleaned the wheels
No, I didn't wash the car, it started raining


----------



## Phaeton (18 Dec 2020)

Half shaft gasket gone


----------



## shep (18 Dec 2020)

Undergoing a bit of bodywork!


----------



## BianchiVirgin (19 Dec 2020)

Starting some body work repair and restoration on this bad boy, my 1972 Opel Commodore GS coupe.


----------



## Gunk (19 Dec 2020)

Wow, now that’s a car!


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## BianchiVirgin (19 Dec 2020)

Gunk said:


> Wow, now that’s a car!


Thanks. Have it since 1991 i think. Its in pretty good shape overall. Has been lying idle for last 20 years in a shed as I'd no time or room to do anything to it. That time has now come.


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## Phaeton (19 Dec 2020)

I do like a big 2 door coupe


----------



## gbb (19 Dec 2020)

My first 'car trouble' in years, maybe decades....
Astra 2015, 68k miles, ESP and engine management lights came on. Didn't notice anything untoward but I was only a few hundred yards from home. A little research pointed to spark plugs or coil. I replaced plugs earlier this year so took it out for a quick drive,now misfiring very obviously.
Whipped the plugs out for a visual, they look fine. New coil pack ordered. 
I could be borrowing my SILs old Fiat Doblo high top for a day or two, ugly as sun but I don't mind it.


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## Gunk (19 Dec 2020)

Sounds like a coil pack, better to replace all 4


----------



## gbb (19 Dec 2020)

The irony is I was thinking of getting an obd2 reader with any Xmas money, just as it's something useful to have.
My SIL has one and is a garage mechanic but given the prevalence of ESP and MIL lights, a misfire and peoples experience a spark plug or coil pack solves the issue, it seems a reasonable step to assume it's the coilpack. SILs only reservation was dont get a cheap one, they often fail in his experience after a few months. OEM Delphi coilpack ordered, £98.
I will still get a code reader though.


----------



## gbb (22 Dec 2020)

BianchiVirgin said:


> View attachment 564000
> 
> Starting some body work repair and restoration on this bad boy, my 1972 Opel Commodore GS coupe.


Looks the same colour as an Opel Ascona SR I had many moons ago.
I'm gonna guess 3 ltr for the Commodore ? ( I havnt googled)


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## gbb (22 Dec 2020)

New coilpack fitted, no misfire, ESP and Engine management lights self cancelled, running as it should.


----------



## rockyroller (23 Dec 2020)

wipers were a bit streaky, so I replaced them


----------



## rockyroller (23 Dec 2020)

Wifey's key fobs were dead, so I replaced the batteries


----------



## screenman (23 Dec 2020)

Wife's car is very muddy so I left it out in the rain.


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## JhnBssll (23 Dec 2020)

I've got this little lot to fit at some point:







- 2x phone antennae and cables, need to run them from the glovebox to somewhere behind the rear bumper. This is the last part of the infotainment upgrade I did recently.
- Front assist camera and wiring loom, need to run the loom from the front radar sensor to the drivers side A pillar, then up and around the windscreen to the rear view mirror. This upgrade also needs a new windscreen before the camera can be attached and calibrated.
- 2x side radar modules and wiring loom, these sit on either side of the car behind the rear wheels under the bumper. Wiring loom needs to connect up somewhere, not really sure where yet 
- Park assist module and wiring loom, plus four additional side sensors (not pictured), these are an upgrade from the park pilot system which beeps to the park assist which parks for you.

The two phone antenna and cables will go in as soon as I get an opportunity to take the rear bumper off, the rest can wait a bit longer. I'm due a company car from 1st Jan and am yet to see the list of options. If there's something electric on there I'll order it and sell the Passat, in which case I will probably sell the parts seperately to save myself some faff


----------



## BoldonLad (23 Dec 2020)

I was going to change my windscreen wipers today (Renault Captur), but, it is raining, and, cannot get the car in the garage for bikes, so, tomorrow it is (possibly)


----------



## rockyroller (23 Dec 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> I've got this little lot to fit at some point:


oh boy


----------



## Gunk (23 Dec 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> I've got this little lot to fit at some point:
> 
> View attachment 564816
> 
> ...



So what are you adding John, OEM reversing camera and phone kit?


----------



## JhnBssll (23 Dec 2020)

Gunk said:


> So what are you adding John, OEM reversing camera and phone kit?



The phone antennas are OEM and connect to the new infotainment module. In essence the car borrows your phones SIM card via Bluetooth and connects itself to the GSM network. This will give better mobile phone coverage and also allow the car to check traffic etc to keep the sat nav happy. The front camera will allow me to enable all the front assist features, ie self steering, lane control etc while the side radar modules will monitor the blind spots. I've got new wing mirrors to fit with orange lamps that light up when there's a car next to you and it will actively steer away if you try to sideswipe someone you haven't spotted. All very clever really! I have fitted the OEM rear view camera as well


----------



## Gunk (23 Dec 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> The phone antennas are OEM and connect to the new infotainment module. In essence the car borrows your phones SIM card via Bluetooth and connects itself to the GSM network. This will give better mobile phone coverage and also allow the car to check traffic etc to keep the sat nav happy. The front camera will allow me to enable all the front assist features, ie self steering, lane control etc while the side radar modules will monitor the blind spots. I've got new wing mirrors to fit with orange lamps that light up when there's a car next to you and it will actively steer away if you try to sideswipe someone you haven't spotted. All very clever really! I have fitted the OEM rear view camera as well



So is it plug and play, or do you need to cut it in to the Canbus system?


----------



## cosmicbike (23 Dec 2020)

Rear wiper on the Volvo not working, unless the tailgate is open, really helpful. Tested tailgate open/shut, cables broken in the hinges again. Rather than do the same repair again, I opted to use an exiting grommet opening and run the cabling that way. Working wiper, happy days.


----------



## Drago (23 Dec 2020)

Had the warning lights back up on the Volvo. The V2 tells me its the OSF ABS sensor, but reading around tells me its more likely to be a cracked reluctor ring. Ill split the difference - I'll do the sensor myself, and if that doesn't fix it the dealer can do the reluctor ring, because its apparently the very devil itself to get the new ring onto the shaft.

And it will be the dealer - the car is so complex it even has an onboard fibre optic network for some systems, so i wouldn't entrust it to an independent. You gotta know when to hold and when to fold.

Otherwise, its still driving fine in the meantime.


----------



## fossyant (23 Dec 2020)

Drago said:


> Had the warning lights back up on the Volvo. The V2 tells me its the OSF ABS sensor, but reading around tells me its more likely to be a cracked reluctor ring. Ill split the difference - I'll do the sensor myself, and if that doesn't fix it the dealer can do the reluctor ring, because its apparently the very devil itself to get the new ring onto the shaft.
> 
> And it will be the dealer - the car is so complex it even has an onboard fibre optic network for some systems, so i wouldn't entrust it to an independent. You gotta know when to hold and when to fold.
> 
> Otherwise, its still driving fine in the meantime.



Easy to check with a torch. It will be a tiny split. The ABS warning on my car lit up when I hit motorway speeds. Fairly common issue TBH as both mine have cracked at different times (the car is nearly 18 years old). Wasn't just the ring that had to be replaced, the whole unit, as you can't buy the rings easily, plus no-one will faff with it. The garage, even with all their power tools had a right job after 16 years on the car.


----------



## fossyant (23 Dec 2020)

After replacing the back box a few months ago, the mid section has gone, which was to be expected. Now we have a decent impact driver gun, this should be easy (son's early Xmas present) and he has a set of deep impact sockets coming from Santa, that I might borrow if my sockets don't fit


----------



## fossyant (23 Dec 2020)

My car has been stood too long this last 9 months. Now it's getting damp and cold outside, it's occasionally stuttering when at low revs. Used to get this in winter when I was cycle commuting as the car never moved. Problem went when I was using it more.


----------



## JhnBssll (23 Dec 2020)

Gunk said:


> So is it plug and play, or do you need to cut it in to the Canbus system?



Theyre all OEM modules but the wiring and connectors don't exist as they weren't factory fitted so yeah, I'll have to connect in to the canbus again in several places. The rest is coding with VCDS to tell the car the new bits exist then enable the various options


----------



## Drago (23 Dec 2020)

fossyant said:


> Easy to check with a torch. It will be a tiny split. The ABS warning on my car lit up when I hit motorway speeds. Fairly common issue TBH as both mine have cracked at different times (the car is nearly 18 years old). Wasn't just the ring that had to be replaced, the whole unit, as you can't buy the rings easily, plus no-one will faff with it. The garage, even with all their power tools had a right job after 16 years on the car.


I'm planning to have a look early in the new year. Hoping its just the sensor, but if I have to wave some shekels at Volvo then so be it. Its the first fault on the car in 12 years and 143000 miles, so can't grumnle.


----------



## rockyroller (26 Dec 2020)

with the last storm, our Son pulled too hard on the passenger side door handle. '94 Camry is plastic. I personally broke the driver side when he was still living w/ us a cpl yrs ago. I've taken precautions, like warning him about the hazzard. (but not recently). I've also taken steps to clean all the gaskets & wipe them w/ protectant (as recently as this Fall). grrr, I'll have to order the cheap part. we had our shop do it with an oil change & tire rotation last time. he doesn't even want to fix it, which I just don't understand, there must be a missing gene ...


----------



## keithmac (26 Dec 2020)

I think I may have a gearbox fetish.

After all the hassle I've had with ours I still wasn't completely happy with it's "brain", Fords programming and gearbox strategies just didn't feel right to me (certain situations it could get confused and take a second or two to make it's mind up).

So £350 and 90 seconds later it's running DTUK's custom firmware.

Done 30 miles this morning and it's transformed the car, I'm genuinely over the moon with it.

Transition from braking to accelerating, setting off from junctions, cluch clamp rate, target gear selection, all of it is much much better. 

Worth every penny!.


----------



## Gunk (26 Dec 2020)

I could do with that mod on my 2015 DSG Golf GTD, just now and again, especially coming out of a roundabout it just gets confused to which gear it should be in and you end up with a huge flat spot.


----------



## keithmac (26 Dec 2020)

I was very sceptical, some have said similar units just do a gearbox reset.

I have the factory diagnostic kit, have done firmware updates, clutch and fork learns etc and the DTUK boxes definitely alter the gear selection and clutch strategies.

Can't recommend it highly enough really!.


----------



## JhnBssll (26 Dec 2020)

Gunk said:


> I could do with that mod on my 2015 DSG Golf GTD, just now and again, especially coming out of a roundabout it just gets confused to which gear it should be in and you end up with a huge flat spot.



I had the 7 speed DSG in my Passat mapped at the same time as the engine - it made a big improvement. The shift points were all tweaked and the torque limits raised in-line with the new engine output. It now shifts quicker on acceleration and holds each gear for longer, almost completely eliminating the nuisance shifts when you try to make progress  I would second @keithmac in recommending getting it done and although I didn't use a plug in solution the piggyback boxes seem to get good reviews


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## keithmac (26 Dec 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> I had the 7 speed DSG in my Passat mapped at the same time as the engine - it made a big improvement. The shift points were all tweaked and the torque limits raised in-line with the new engine output. It now shifts quicker on acceleration and holds each gear for longer, almost completely eliminating the nuisance shifts when you try to make progress  I would second @keithmac in recommending getting it done and although I didn't use a plug in solution the piggyback boxes seem to get good reviews



I couldn't find anyone why could reflash my 6DCT450, basically the DTUK TCU+ rewrites the software inside the gearbox (over canbus), once it's done that you remove the dongle and job done.

Same result as yours but done at home.

As you say it's night and day different, "nuisance shifts" describes them very well; you wouldn't make those in a manual car.


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## Phaeton (26 Dec 2020)

None of the CC's has access to VagCom do they, we have an engine issue with the LT35 & want to see the codes, I have a cheapo Bluetooth ELM327 & Torque, although it sees the ELM327 it won't connect to the ECU


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## JhnBssll (26 Dec 2020)

I've got VCDS yeah but I'm down south rather than Oop North (ish), and it's a limited VIN version so tend not to lend it out. If you're stuck and cant find one closer feel free to give me a shout.


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## MrGrumpy (31 Dec 2020)

Got a rocker cover gasket to change on the lads Mini Cooper. Been misfiring so replaced all coil packs only to then realise there was a small pool of oil sitting on the spark plug 1 !! Now know why it’s using a fair bit of oil as well !!


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## Pale Rider (2 Jan 2021)

MrGrumpy said:


> Got a rocker cover gasket to change on the lads Mini Cooper. Been misfiring so replaced all coil packs only to then realise there was a small pool of oil sitting on the spark plug 1 !! Now know why it’s using a fair bit of oil as well !!



Years ago, the advice was not to tighten the rocker cover bolts too much because they could cause the mild steel cover to splay, and in turn leak.

Probably not as critical today with rigid alloy rocker covers.

I suppose if the fixing bolts are centralised, you could still crack the cover by over-tightening.


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## Tail End Charlie (2 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> Years ago, the advice was not to tighten the rocker cover bolts too much because they could cause the mild steel cover to splay, and in turn leak.
> 
> Probably not as critical today with rigid alloy rocker covers.
> 
> I suppose if the fixing bolts are centralised, you could still crack the cover by over-tightening.


Good advice, an instance where a torque wrench is worth its weight in gold.


----------



## Phaeton (2 Jan 2021)

Went out to the wife's Rav4 this morning at 7:30 to go do a bit of shopping, tried to start & it failed, wouldn't turn over enough, tried to jump it off a spare battery but that failed as well, in the end got the big jump charger out, left it on 5 minutes & away it went. It's been very cold here the last few days, the car is hardly being used, last run was probably 2 miles a week ago. 

First time it has let us down in 7 years on the battery that came with it. So new Yuasa battery ordered, £189 direct from manufacturer, £84.99 from Fleecebay


----------



## fossyant (2 Jan 2021)

Looks like we will need to replace the new FAG top mount bushes on my lads Fabia. 

After a month they have compressed so the top cap that holds them in place is 5mm proud of the bodywork. Came from Germany. He does have two performance poly bushes, so we will swap over when its warmer.


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## MrGrumpy (2 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> Years ago, the advice was not to tighten the rocker cover bolts too much because they could cause the mild steel cover to splay, and in turn leak.
> 
> Probably not as critical today with rigid alloy rocker covers.
> 
> I suppose if the fixing bolts are centralised, you could still crack the cover by over-tightening.


10Nm


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## Phaeton (2 Jan 2021)

I draw the line at trying to wore the kit car in the snow, I need to move & buy a house with a useful garage


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## gbb (2 Jan 2021)

Phaeton said:


> I draw the line at trying to wore the kit car in the snow, I need to move & buy a house with a useful garage


I always sympathise with heavy plant mechanics, fork lift truck engineers etc etc who have to do their stuff through winter, often in the open.


----------



## Bazzer (2 Jan 2021)

keithmac said:


> I couldn't find anyone why could reflash my 6DCT450, basically the DTUK TCU+ rewrites the software inside the gearbox (over canbus), once it's done that you remove the dongle and job done.
> 
> Same result as yours but done at home.
> 
> As you say it's night and day different, "nuisance shifts" describes them very well; you wouldn't make those in a manual car.


Can this be used to tweak when shifts take place, or to disable some of the existing software? Apart from the DAB radio reception, (of which more later), the biggest irritation with my Golf GTE is its refusal to go into 4th gear until in excess of 30mph is reached. The software also overides paddle shifting it into 4th. Mrs B's Tiguan is happily trundling along at 4th at speeds the Golf refuses 4th, but both have DSG boxes.
Meanwhile, elsewhere in VW world, it looks like the dash cam hardwire kit for my daughter's Up! is faulty. Working just before Christmas, it now is hit and miss, despite12v to the electronics box. I had had in one of my boxes of bits a Nextbase dash cam wire, so soldered that in, but it's just as flakey. Looks like it's one of the capacitors or inductors, but my knowledge of testing these is more limited, so it's looking like a new kit.


----------



## Pale Rider (3 Jan 2021)

My six speed 1.5 diesel Cmax presumably has a similar gearbox to @keithmac's Kuga.

It is sometimes jerky when pulling away, but works well enough otherwise.

I imagine the changing could be improved, but I lack Keith's skill and knowledge to do it.


----------



## DRM (3 Jan 2021)

gbb said:


> I always sympathise with heavy plant mechanics, fork lift truck engineers etc etc who have to do their stuff through winter, often in the open.


It gets harder & harder as each year goes by to cope with, then the powers that be put trackers on the vans, it also monitors excess idling, so you can’t even have the engine & heater running, pre COVID you could sit in the canteen to do the paperwork , but that’s not an option now, all you can do is get wrapped up with loads of layers and pray it doesn’t rain!


----------



## cosmicbike (5 Jan 2021)

I changed a side repeater lamp on the Volvo 240 this morning, the only thing I could find wrong before her MOT at midday. Which she passed of course. 27 years young and no major issues, quite pleased with that.


----------



## gbb (5 Jan 2021)

Sundays I always check my DILs car for tyre pressures, fluid levels etc. 
55 plate Chevrolet Kalos, flipped the lever to open the bonnet....nothing.
Removed the interior panel the lever is attached to, still wont undo.
Released cable from lever, pull with pliers, still wont undo.
Waggled screwdriver through smallest gap in bonnet to vainly attempt to loosen the catch, still wont undo.
Got under car to look. No chance.
Waggled the grill, no chance.
45 minutes later (after many repeated attempts) I got it undone and for the life of me, I'm not sure how.

Grease applied to the catch, I think it was all dry. Put it all back together, opens perfectly (hands together and prays it stays that way)


----------



## Phaeton (5 Jan 2021)

gbb said:


> Grease applied to the catch, I think it was all dry. Put it all back together, opens perfectly (hands together and prays it stays that way)


That's the frightening one closing it again for the first time after you've spent 45 minutes getting it open in the first place


----------



## shep (5 Jan 2021)

gbb said:


> I always sympathise with heavy plant mechanics, fork lift truck engineers etc etc who have to do their stuff through winter, often in the open.









Not plant but we were taking that mast down you can see in the background, took us a week.


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## Drago (5 Jan 2021)

Booked the XC90 in for the dealer to do the reluctor ring next week. I'm not pulling driveshafts in this weather, and it needs doing as the traction control keeps cutting in and muting the power, which is disconcerting.

DIY wise, I checked the under bonnet levels this morning and plugged it into the charger for a few hours.


----------



## fossyant (5 Jan 2021)

Call from local exhaust specialist, got your mid section, we think it's the wrong one though. Popped down, was the wrong one. Like Drago, not crawling under a car in this weather.


----------



## DRM (5 Jan 2021)

fossyant said:


> Call from local exhaust specialist, got your mid section, we think it's the wrong one though. Popped down, was the wrong one. Like Drago, not crawling under a car in this weather.


I’ve found it’s usually financially pointless diy’ing an exhaust as you don’t seem to save to much price wise, and you still have to roll round on the floor wrestling rusty pipe and fittings, then you can guarantee it knocks somewhere under the car, but won’t if you shake the thing by hand


----------



## Drago (6 Jan 2021)

And seeing as most exhaust places do free fitting anyway, and you get a 1 or 2 year warranty, it's not worthy fannying with them. I'll tackle most things like the thrusting go-getter that I am, but it simply makes more sense to leave exhausts to Fred in a Shed.


----------



## gbb (6 Jan 2021)

DRM said:


> I’ve found it’s usually financially pointless diy’ing an exhaust as you don’t seem to save to much price wise, and you still have to roll round on the floor wrestling rusty pipe and fittings, then you can guarantee it knocks somewhere under the car, but won’t if you shake the thing by hand


Agreed, i long since stopped DIY'ing exhausts. There's not enough to save vs the work involved.
And wherever, replace all the sections at the same time (Cat excluded of course), got fed up of replacing a back box...for the mid pipe to fail weeks after.


----------



## Phaeton (6 Jan 2021)

Rav4 passed MOT 134,391 miles still no advisories





I thought we'd owned it longer but we bought it 02/02/2015 it had been going from Yorkshire to South Germany by looking at the SatNav when we bought it.


----------



## Smokin Joe (6 Jan 2021)

DRM said:


> I’ve found it’s usually financially pointless diy’ing an exhaust as you don’t seem to save to much price wise, and you still have to roll round on the floor wrestling rusty pipe and fittings, then you can guarantee it knocks somewhere under the car, but won’t if you shake the thing by hand


I did it once with a complete system, a fairly simple job on a Marina made even easier because the ex FiL had a pit in his garage. The only part I've done since is the odd back box.


----------



## cosmicbike (6 Jan 2021)

DRM said:


> I’ve found it’s usually financially pointless diy’ing an exhaust as you don’t seem to save to much price wise, and you still have to roll round on the floor wrestling rusty pipe and fittings, then you can guarantee it knocks somewhere under the car, but won’t if you shake the thing by hand


Did the full Cat back system on the Volvo, I expected a nightmare but old off, new on in about 2 hours on the driveway. £100 all in.


----------



## Phaeton (6 Jan 2021)

Exhaust are one of those items which have come down dramatically in price, I seem to remember having to pay over £20 in the very early 80's for just a back box on a MK3 Cortina


----------



## Richard A Thackeray (9 Jan 2021)

Daughters b/f has changed his car again 

Audi A3 (written off, not his fault) > MGB GT > VW Golf 2 > FreeLander Td4 
Now he's in a Fabia vRS, one of the earlier models with the 1.9Tdi
There's a few things to do on it


----------



## tyred (10 Jan 2021)

I stripped and freed the callipers replaced the front pads and disks on the 205 as I will try and test it again. The sliders on the callipers had not been sliding as they should (due to lack of use and old age I assume) but normal service has now been restored. I would like to do one more road trip in it this summer (if we're allowed to go anywhere due to Covid) before taking it off the road for refurbishment next winter. The exhaust was knocking on something so investigated that too - very simple, one of the rubber mountings had broke and the others were hanging by a thread so good job I looked. I wouldn't mind but I replaced all the rubbers when I replaced the cat and the middle section of the exhaust last August. Luckily I had kept the old ones as I had to put them back on again. Cheap rubbish obviously. 

Brakes seem much better now but next Saturday I might pull the back drums to see what's going on in there as although the handbrake works very well it is very long. I suspect the self-adjusters aren't self adjusting as usual.


----------



## Phaeton (10 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> I suspect the self-adjusters aren't self adjusting as usual.


Do/did they ever on any car?


----------



## tyred (10 Jan 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Do/did they ever on any car?



Not in my experience. 

The wedge adjusters in the old Golfs were easily fixed though by getting someone to stand on the brake pedal and then hitting the drums with a hammer so the wedge was shocked into taking up the slack.


----------



## Cletus Van Damme (10 Jan 2021)

I replaced the front suspension in my Mazda 2. It was bouncing all over the place. I ordered new shocks and springs, bump stops and dust gaiters. 

When doing this I found that one shock adsorber was totally knackered. The other side appeared to be fine, but I still replaced it. The springs looked fine, the same height as the replacements, but I still replaced them. The gaiters were completly knackered on both sides. When doing the job one of the strut top bearings was in a right state, but I never ordered these parts. So I've had to take one side out again and replace that. I've also just done the other side today as I'm a bit of a perfectionist. 

I guess you learn from your mistakes, just replace everything and do it once. The car had done 59K. It's a much better drive now, well as good as a 1.3 Mazda 2 can be..


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## Phaeton (11 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> Not in my experience.
> 
> The wedge adjusters in the old Golfs were easily fixed though by getting someone to stand on the brake pedal and then hitting the drums with a hammer so the wedge was shocked into taking up the slack.


The only ones that I can remember working were some inboard disc ones, possibly Jaguar or maybe P6 Rover they were a very fine toothed & held in a greased enclosure or something where damp couldn't get to them. Although I maybe completely wrong about it, but have a vague recollection of being quite impressed with them.


----------



## Pale Rider (12 Jan 2021)

When we serviced a drum braked car, we would routinely wind up the rear self adjusters a couple of clicks.

That, and blow lethal asbestos dust all over the garage with the compressed air line.


----------



## Adam4868 (12 Jan 2021)

I seem to remember there was a service hole on some drum brakes ,? Used to like a screwdriver through to adjust


----------



## Pale Rider (12 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> I seem to remember there was a service hole on some drum brakes ,? Used to like a screwdriver through to adjust



Yes, there was a hole in the back plate.

Handy if you didn't want to remove the drum.

From a garage service point of view, the procedure was put the car on a wheel free hoist, remove the drum, check the shoes for wear, scuff the shoes with emery cloth, blow the dust everywhere, then click the self adjuster.

It was also easy to pop the drum back on again, check for free spinning, and give the adjuster another click if it would take it.

Incidentally, most drums had a small countersunk set screw to hold them in place.

I could never work out why, given the drum is also held in place by the wheel and its four studs and nuts.

Or three bolts and a locator pin if it was a Renault, but that's the French for you.


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## Phaeton (12 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> Incidentally, most drums had a small countersunk set screw to hold them in place.
> 
> I could never work out why, given the drum is also held in place by the wheel and its four studs and nuts.


Especially as they were a right royal barstool to get out


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## Adam4868 (12 Jan 2021)

Lol...never replaced the screw  But the drum was sometimes a barstool to get off,hammer time ! I remember as a kid my dad saying put your ear to it and blowing it out....


----------



## fossyant (12 Jan 2021)

Turned out a good job I took the car to the garage for the mid section of the exhaust. I'd fitted the rear box in the summer, so that was easy to remove. An hour and a half it took them to fit the mid section after twice being sent the wrong one (despite knowing exactly which bit it was). The bolts were a little stubborn after 19 years !


----------



## rockyroller (12 Jan 2021)

hey Drago, do you have a home DIY thread started?


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## Pale Rider (12 Jan 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Especially as they were a right royal barstool to get out



Some were, although we always replaced them, and had a little tray of new ones to use if the head was badly chewed.

As regards purpose, all we could think is they were there in the unlikely event of losing a wheel.

If the drum went as well, all the braking slack - depending on the system - could be taken up by the now 'free' shoes, meaning you'd have no brakes on the other wheels.

I lost a front wheel on a customer's disc braked Datsun Bluebird.

'Someone' had forgotten to tighten the nuts on that wheel.

No big drama, the car bumped and ground to a halt on three wheels.

The car was undamaged, apart from some road scuffing on the edge of the disc.


----------



## tyred (12 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> I seem to remember there was a service hole on some drum brakes ,? Used to like a screwdriver through to adjust


My 1960s Ford tractor has that and no self-adjusting mechanism. 

Tighten it up until it starts to bind and then back off half a turn.


----------



## Phaeton (12 Jan 2021)

Put some new calipers on the back of the kit car this afternoon strangely enough they have manual adjusters on the handbrake even though they work on the discs.


----------



## Ming the Merciless (12 Jan 2021)

Fixed bonnet release catch so bonnet shuts properly. Prompted by mot fail.


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## Drago (13 Jan 2021)

Collected my XC90 from the dealer, who'd fitted a new ABS reluctor ring. They seemed most affronted that my DIY diagnosis was correct, and that id not paid them to diagnose it

So the iCarsoft V2.0 Volvo has already paid for itself.


----------



## Drago (14 Jan 2021)

Noticed last night that the bidet is getting a bit lazy. The power of Google shows that the dirt and crud gets sucked into the low pressure area behind the car and finds its way past the wiper motor spindle seal and bungs it up. So, if the rain permits today i'll whip the motor out for a strip, clean and regrease, which appears to be a straightfoward procedure.

I love fixing stuff!


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## biggs682 (14 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> Lol...never replaced the screw  But the drum was sometimes a barstool to get off,hammer time ! I remember as a kid my dad saying put your ear to it and blowing it out....


Lada's use to have alloy drums so they often corroded against the stub on the axle Shaft had quite a few shatter on us whilst trying to remove


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## Adam4868 (14 Jan 2021)

biggs682 said:


> Lada's use to have alloy drums so they often corroded against the stub on the axle Shaft had quite a few shatter on us whilst trying to remove


The car or the drum


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## Phaeton (14 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> The car or the drum


You joke but have you seen the price of Lada's recently especially the Niva!


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## biggs682 (14 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> The car or the drum


Drums


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## Drago (15 Jan 2021)

Today I whipped the rear wiper motor out of the XC90. The motor is a neat bit of design and comes right apart with a torx key. A good strip, clean and relube of the little gearbox and crank and the rear wiper is as good as new. The old grease had simply gone hard, like the stuff inside Shimano brifters does with age.

Not a difficult job, but messy. 45 mins from start to finish. So if id paid a dealer that would have been a ton for a new motor, and probably 50 labour, plus the value added tragedy. So not only did I save nearly 200 portraits, I did it in less time than it would have taken to drive to the dealer and back.


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## Electric_Andy (15 Jan 2021)

Today I fitted a new alternator to my Fiesta. But I can't get the belt back on (long story short; no flat surface, no lift or jack, bad back and bad knee). My nearest garage is 1.2 miles away (5 mins): do you think I can drive to the garage with no auxillary belt without overheating?

The battery is new and fully charged


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## Drago (15 Jan 2021)

Yeah, that'll get you there. Some Fordsmyou need a wedge shaped tool doobrey to get the belt over the pulley.


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## Electric_Andy (15 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Yeah, that'll get you there. Some Fordsmyou need a wedge shaped tool doobrey to get the belt over the pulley.


I've seen YouTube videos where people just used a bit of cardboard and a screwdriver. But i can't get near it. So much easier when the car is in the air


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## DRM (15 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> My 1960s Ford tractor has that and no self-adjusting mechanism.
> 
> Tighten it up until it starts to bind and then back off half a turn.


Fork lifts are the same, but with self adjusters, only difference being to get the drum off, you have to remove the half shaft ,the wheel bearings then back the shoes off then pull the drum off, to save time you leave the wheels on, I wonder why my joints are knackered  we would make an adjuster by using a length of thin steel bar, bend the end up about 45 degrees and cut a V notch in it


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## Drago (16 Jan 2021)

Fork lifts are drum braked? You know, I never thought about it.


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## gbb (17 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Fork lifts are drum braked? You know, I never thought about it.


Lower speeds, heavy loads, I suspect brake shoes and drums will actually give better or more reliable, braking force by virtue of their larger surface area.


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## DRM (17 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Fork lifts are drum braked? You know, I never thought about it.


Some smaller electric ones have discs, hydrostatic drive ones don't have any they just lock the hydraulic drive motors, but one brand have a hydrostatic drive with drum brakes as well , weird as the idea is to do away with brakes in the traditional sense so it's one less thing to maintain, reach trucks and electric powered pallet trucks have electromagnetic brakes, which is just a parking brake, the AC motor does the braking.


----------



## Phaeton (17 Jan 2021)

Yesterday I spent a frustrating couple of hours out in the cold on the kitcar, this one has a windscreen so need to have wipers, there is no real build manual just a few pictures. It uses the MX5 wiper motor & the wiper pivots that take the rotary movement of the motor & make them into the arc movement needed by the wipers. First nerve wracking is drilling the holes for the pivots, it only says 45mm down from the screen but not where so you have to work it out. You then that to cut/shut the drive arm from motor to pivot, sorted the drivers side so that it sweeps nice & then parks at the bottom, the passenger one is then driven from the drivers. Worked it all out, cut/shut the arms, bend them so they cleared each other, switched the power on only to find I had one going one way & the other going the other & clashing in the middle, a total WTF moment  Another hour later they were working right


----------



## tyred (17 Jan 2021)

My job for this morning involved freeing out the self-adjusting mechanism on the 205's drum brakes. Simple, what could possibly go wrong?

Well, there was a slight dampness when I pulled back the dust covers on the cylinders when I was working on the passenger side. The very beginnings of a leak. Caught just in time I thought, before it contaminated the liners. I sorted out the brake adjust mechanism anyway and was congratulating myself on policy of checking on these things occasionally before they develop into more serious issues. I put it all back together with the intention of ordering a new cylinder during the week and fitting it next weekend.

I then moved on the driver's side, yes it had started to leak fluid too, only in this case enough to contaminate the liners so I will need two cylinders and a set of brake shoes and have to strip it all down again next weekend

The brake fluid level was down when I checked but not by much, it was still just above the minimum and hadn't triggered the low level warning light yet so the leaks must have been very slight and pretty recent.

I does show that it's worthwhile to give a car a check over on a relatively regular basis, even if it doesn't do very many miles like mine (I actually think that's my problem as the braking system keeps seizing up over time).

I'll try the local motorfactor tomorrow to see what they can do for me. The Peugeot specialist that knows 205s inside out and usually still has most things in stock and where I usually get bits and pieces is out of reach due to the Covid travel restrictions.

Just to round the day of nicely I tried to start my Fabia and the recent frosty spell seems to have killed the battery

My plan for the year had been to drive the 205 over the summer and then take it off the road for sill reconstruction over the winter and use the Skoda but I am in some ways tempted to just put the Skoda on the road now and sort the brakes at a later date.

The only good thing is that I don't actually need either car as I am only allowed to travel 5km which I can do on foot. The only thing I actually use the car for at the moment is to collect and deliver my parent's shopping.

Maintaining old cars is so much fun


----------



## figbat (17 Jan 2021)

I loved my 205 XS. ☹️


----------



## tyred (17 Jan 2021)

figbat said:


> I loved my 205 XS. ☹


Mine is only a humble 1124cc.

The XS is a forgotten model. Loads of GTIs seem to have survived but I cannot remember the last time I saw an XS.


----------



## Phaeton (17 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> Loads of GTIs seem to have survived


Funny that isn't it, they'll end up like the 66 Mustang with the 427 (or something like that) there are more registered on the road today than were ever produced.


----------



## tyred (17 Jan 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Funny that isn't it, they'll end up like the 66 Mustang with the 427 (or something like that) there are more registered on the road today than were ever produced.


I suppose they sell for such silly money these days that would be worthwhile faking one if you were that way inclined.


----------



## figbat (17 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> The XS is a forgotten model. Loads of GTIs seem to have survived but I cannot remember the last time I saw an XS.


Even back in the day they were rarer than the rather ubiquitous GTi. Mine was a 1989 with the 85 bhp variant of the 1,360cc TU3. Part-exchanged it for a mk1 MR2.


----------



## raleighnut (17 Jan 2021)

figbat said:


> I loved my 205 XS. ☹


My ex had the GR, a 1360cc 5 door.


----------



## rockyroller (18 Jan 2021)

discovered which of my 4 disc brakes is squealing. found a nice little groove going on one of them


----------



## figbat (18 Jan 2021)

raleighnut said:


> My ex had the GR, a 1360cc 5 door.


S'funny - they had a bit of a system going, with G_X_ models (eg GL, GR, GT) being 5-door and X_X_ models (XL, XR, XS) being 3-door (the second letter denoted trim level). The GTi was a notable exception.


----------



## tyred (18 Jan 2021)

I wish mine was a GR. They were much quieter and more refined than the basic models. They must have more sound deadening stuffed under the carpet.


----------



## raleighnut (18 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> I wish mine was a GR. They were much quieter and more refined than the basic models. They must have more sound deadening stuffed under the carpet.


They also had a 5 speed gearbox. The 1.2 had the best fuel economy though, better than the underpowered 1.0.


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## tyred (18 Jan 2021)

raleighnut said:


> They also had a 5 speed gearbox. The 1.2 had the best fuel economy though, better than the underpowered 1.0.


I think every 205 apart from the most basic 1.0 XE had a 5 speed box from about 1990 onwards. 

As a 1996 car with the 1124cc engine mine doez have a 5 speed but top gear is quite low so things get noisy for sustained high speed driving. Most of my driving is on minor rural roads so it's not too much of a problem. I'll always take the scenic route anyway as driving on main roads is boring.


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## raleighnut (18 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> I think every 205 apart from the most basic 1.0 XE had a 5 speed box from about 1990 onwards.
> 
> As a 1996 car with the 1124cc engine mine doez have a 5 speed but top gear is quite low so things get noisy for sustained high speed driving. Most of my driving is on minor rural roads so it's not too much of a problem. I'll always take the scenic route anyway as driving on main roads is boring.


Pamela's would do 80 in 3rd, we were going up north (her family were from Blackburn) and hit a contraflow on the M1 which slowed traffic to about 25mph for 1/2 a mile then slowly sped up til we cleared it after a couple of miles more and went back up to cruising speed, after a few miles she said "why is the car making a funny noise" and so I turned the Cassette down to have a listen (I'd just given the car a full service) then asked her why she was still in 3rd gear. to be fair we'd been nattering whilst in the contraflow, just the normal stuff like "look at that dickhead" and "Why is he changing lanes when the signs said stay in lane" etc. and the speed had very gradually built up to about 50 when the roadworks finished so she had been a bit distracted. 
mind you the car enjoyed it, it was running like a sewing machine after that good 'blow through'* and me changing the oil and filters and setting the mixture and timing at my mates fully equiped workshop. 

* Known in the trade as an 'Italian tune-up'


----------



## cosmicbike (18 Jan 2021)

Love an Italian tune up, though my 27 year old Volvo does sound strained at 4500rpm, I've not dared redline it. Always worth doing on the warm up run to her MOT, blow the cobwebs out.


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## figbat (18 Jan 2021)

My old 205 was the cause of one of my most satisfying problem-solving interventions. In cold weather it would run rough and then cut out at almost the same point on my commute every day. After cutting out it would restart and be fine for the rest of the journey. I decided it must be carb-icing and systematically worked my way from air intake to carbs.

There was an automatic inlet air heating setup which used vacuum to operate a valve on the inlet to draw air from over the exhaust manifold (or somewhere warm) when cold. It turned out the diaphragm in this vacuum valve had failed - 20 minutes to replace it and it was fixed. I was dead chuffed with that. From memory it was the only thing that went wrong with it.

I was inspired to consider carb icing by my experience in the Air Cadets, where at age 17 I had completed a gliding proficiency course in a powered glider called a Slingsby Venture, which used an aero-derived VW engine. There was a ‘carb icing’ control in the cockpit which had been explained to me early on, along with the causes, symptoms and consequences of carb icing.


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## shep (18 Jan 2021)

Coming along nicely......


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## tyred (18 Jan 2021)

raleighnut said:


> Pamela's would do 80 in 3rd, we were going up north (her family were from Blackburn) and hit a contraflow on the M1 which slowed traffic to about 25mph for 1/2 a mile then slowly sped up til we cleared it after a couple of miles more and went back up to cruising speed, after a few miles she said "why is the car making a funny noise" and so I turned the Cassette down to have a listen (I'd just given the car a full service) then asked her why she was still in 3rd gear. to be fair we'd been nattering whilst in the contraflow, just the normal stuff like "look at that dickhead" and "Why is he changing lanes when the signs said stay in lane" etc. and the speed had very gradually built up to about 50 when the roadworks finished so she had been a bit distracted.
> mind you the car enjoyed it, it was running like a sewing machine after that good 'blow through'* and me changing the oil and filters and setting the mixture and timing at my mates fully equiped workshop.
> 
> * Known in the trade as an 'Italian tune-up'



The TU3 series of engines seem to thrive on revs. They're not a refined engine by any means but they really rev out and appreciate being driven like that. I've hot 60 in 3rd often but have never tried for any more although it would do more. I suspect the 1124cc engine would safely rev a little higher than the 1360cc as they usually find the extra capacity by lengthening the stroke.

It is the one thing that I noticed in the Skoda (the 3 cylinder 1200cc engine) is that it just doesn't want to rev. It's all about low down torque which can be relaxing in some circumstances but I would prefer a wider power band. VW seem to have made a small petrol engine with the power characteristics of a N/A diesel I suppose it's easier driven around town.


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## gbb (19 Jan 2021)

Had the wheel off my car Sunday, check the actual condition of my pads (recently given an MOT advisory) and check the actual diameter of the discs to make sure i get the right pads.
Discs look ok
Pads are sitting at around 5mm.
2015 car, 68k miles, still on the original pads .


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## raleighnut (19 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> The TU3 series of engines seem to thrive on revs. They're not a refined engine by any means but they really rev out and appreciate being driven like that. I've hot 60 in 3rd often but have never tried for any more although it would do more. I suspect the 1124cc engine would safely rev a little higher than the 1360cc as they usually find the extra capacity by lengthening the stroke.
> 
> It is the one thing that I noticed in the Skoda (the 3 cylinder 1200cc engine) is that it just doesn't want to rev. It's all about low down torque which can be relaxing in some circumstances but I would prefer a wider power band. VW seem to have made a small petrol engine with the power characteristics of a N/A diesel I suppose it's easier driven around town.


Nah Pams had the earlier 'X' engine that was laid nearly flat with the rocker cover right at the back against the bulkhead, you had to do the exhaust clearances by feel as you couldn't actually see them and getting the cover back on without damaging the rubber seal/gasket was a nightmare and if it leaked the oil went straight onto the exhaust manifold DAMHIKT.


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## fossyant (19 Jan 2021)

My car is due it's MOT. Checked the last one and I've done 3000 miles this year. Usual is 7000-8000 (Wales trips).

Anyway, the front shock gaiters have 'vanished'. They haven't been in good nick for a long time. Pulled what was left off (not much), checked shock, all looked OK. Got new gaiters, cut them, popped over shock, then used two cable ties to keep in place, whilst I glued them back together. Wasn't pulling the suspension to bits to fit.


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## fossyant (24 Jan 2021)

Son is just finishing replacing the front suspension bushes. The FAG ones we ordered have compressed leaving a 5mm gap with the top cap (only fitted in November). Replaced with upgraded poly bushes. Downside is one of the bolts on a drop link snapped on removal so I'll run him to Eurocarparts in the morning.


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## cosmicbike (24 Jan 2021)

Cross posting with the Volvo thread, I repaired both the heated front seats on my 240 this morning. Looking forward to warm bum motoring


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## fossyant (24 Jan 2021)

cosmicbike said:


> Cross posting with the Volvo thread, I repaired both the heated front seats on my 240 this morning. Looking forward to warm bum motoring



Both now...


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## fossyant (24 Jan 2021)

Son is also doing pad change, oil, plugs etc tomorrow. Then needs to get two new front tyres (that I bought via ebay) on pronto as one front is very near the limit.


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## fossyant (25 Jan 2021)

Ran my son for parts. New anti-roll bar drop links fitted, oil change, filter and spark plugs done. The Brembo pads that we picked up were the wrong size (blooming Europarts) so took them back and exchanged them for some other Brembo's on 'the parts list'. Whilst there picked up a piston push back tool as my son had to remove his calipers to change pads - I just undo one bolt on mine and flip them up, and can use a bar to push the piston back. He's just re-fitting the wheels now. Tomorrow's job is off to the garage to swap the tyres over.


----------



## Adam4868 (25 Jan 2021)

Don't know about anybody else but I find Eurocarparts expensive now.I get barely anything from them.Maybe use them as a price guide at best.Thats even with a mechanics supposed mates rate.Far cheaper places around me


----------



## gbb (26 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> Don't know about anybody else but I find Eurocarparts expensive now.I get barely anything from them.Maybe use them as a price guide at best.Thats even with a mechanics supposed mates rate.Far cheaper places around me


I agree, I had some terrible service from them, vowed not to go back and since then, comparing prices, even Halfords can often come up as csimilar prices on some stuff. It's also worth seeing if there are any maker specific independent parts suppliers out there. I got my coilpack, Delphi...really good make, cheaper than some cheap parts elsewhere from AutoVaux, Vauxhall specialists.


----------



## Phaeton (26 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> Don't know about anybody else but I find Eurocarparts expensive now.I get barely anything from them.Maybe use them as a price guide at best.Thats even with a mechanics supposed mates rate.Far cheaper places around me


Like with everything these days you have to shop around, they have some silly offers, once bought a two cans of Plusgas from them for £8.98, they were flown in from Germany on Free delivery. But by the same token needed a radiator, for the daughters Auris, they wanted £179 including the discount, I paid £65 for a branded one.


----------



## keithmac (26 Jan 2021)

I put some fancy diesel in ours from BP (Ultimate Diesel?).

I've never put any credence into thoughts of expensive diesel being better than Tesco fuel but I'm sure it's running a lot smoother.

Might have to eat my words!.


----------



## keithmac (26 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> Don't know about anybody else but I find Eurocarparts expensive now.I get barely anything from them.Maybe use them as a price guide at best.Thats even with a mechanics supposed mates rate.Far cheaper places around me



They nearly always have discount codes online, so their normal prices are nigh on double what it should be but the "discount" makes it look like a good deal!.

I bought a battery a while back, £200+ before the code, £115 after which was the going rate..


----------



## Adam4868 (26 Jan 2021)

Even after discount codes I can usually but cheaper locally.


----------



## Pale Rider (26 Jan 2021)

cosmicbike said:


> Cross posting with the Volvo thread, I repaired both the heated front seats on my 240 this morning. Looking forward to warm bum motoring



A mate of mine switched on the heated seat in his Volvo and something caught fire.

Turns out he had stuffed an empty McDonald's bag under the seat and forgotten it was there.


----------



## Scottish Scrutineer (26 Jan 2021)

I had a productive weekend fettling the Caravelle. The rear calliper's had seized up, probably made worse by the lack of use, so replaced both callipers - should have ordered pads as although they are only about 50% worn, look very glazed. Not too surprising seeing as the o/s brakes were smoking at one point. 
Next job was replacing a steering arm as the ball joint was showing wear. I had soaked the rod thread with PlusGas a week earlier and was pleasantly surprised to find it undone very easily, the biggest fight was shocking the ball out of its taper. Not sure if it was the original part, but it did had the VW/Audi stamp on it, not bad at 9 years and >250k miles.
Also, as the work had involved removing 3 of the wheels, decided it was an opportune time to put the winters on.


----------



## fossyant (26 Jan 2021)

My car was running a bit rough yesterday - It's had £80 of fuel in it since September - two part full tanks. It's only done supermarket runs ! MOT is tomorrow, so as the tank was empty, chucked in a bottle of injector cleaner and Italian Tuned it up the motorway at 70 mph and 5000 rpm. Came back and chucked £40 of fuel in. Running fine now.

Son has had the front tyres replaced on his Fabia, but on torquing up the wheels he and the garage noticed some 'play' - the bushes on the lower arm are worn on the passenger side - another job. Going for poly bushes again, and that will be the front suspension bushes all upgraded - the down side of lots of driving on urban roads... wear and tear !


----------



## fossyant (26 Jan 2021)

PS son was planning on polly bushing the car's suspension and tuning it. Just needs a full time job now to pay for it....


----------



## Scottish Scrutineer (27 Jan 2021)

fossyant said:


> My car was running a bit rough yesterday - It's had £80 of fuel in it since September - two part full tanks. It's only done supermarket runs ! MOT is tomorrow, so as the tank was empty, chucked in a bottle of injector cleaner and Italian Tuned it up the motorway at 70 mph and 5000 rpm. Came back and chucked £40 of fuel in. Running fine now.


My Elise almost failed an MOT emissions test because it had "old" petrol in it. MOT was March and it hadn't really be used since October. I had thought that either the head gasket was going (K-series), or the inlet manifold gasket was leaking. Next MOT I had fresh premium fuel in and had given it a good run on the way to the test centre and it passed fine.
It had also developed a slight hesitation when transitioning from a trailing throttle. I had check the usual suspects and fitted new spark plugs, but replacing the coil packs eliminated the problem and really improved how crisp the car felt.


----------



## fossyant (27 Jan 2021)

<<<< My Car just flew through the MOT, 19 years old and 137k miles, with only 3k done this year. Only did any mileage in July to September going to and from our caravan (when it was open).


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## irw (27 Jan 2021)

fossyant said:


> <<<< My Car just flew through the MOT, 19 years old and 137k miles, with only 3k done this year. Only did any mileage in July to September going to and from our caravan (when it was open).



Pfffft, that's nothing...Our Polo passed the other day. 20 years old, 81,391 miles, and only 1856 miles this year!


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## cosmicbike (27 Jan 2021)

fossyant said:


> <<<< My Car just flew through the MOT, 19 years old and 137k miles, with only 3k done this year. Only did any mileage in July to September going to and from our caravan (when it was open).





irw said:


> Pfffft, that's nothing...Our Polo passed the other day. 20 years old, 81,391 miles, and only 1856 miles this year!



Oh all right then. My 27 year and 5 month old, 181,254 miles on the clock Volvo 240 passed 3 weeks ago.


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## fossyant (27 Jan 2021)

cosmicbike said:


> Oh all right then. My 27 year and 5 month old, 181,254 miles on the clock Volvo 240 passed 3 weeks ago.



And it's heated seats work again !


----------



## Pale Rider (27 Jan 2021)

keithmac said:


> I put some fancy diesel in ours from BP (Ultimate Diesel?).
> 
> I've never put any credence into thoughts of expensive diesel being better than Tesco fuel but I'm sure it's running a lot smoother.
> 
> Might have to eat my words!.



I've used super diesel a couple of times.

The car did feel a bit more perky, but that is a very subjective judgment.

Lots online about supermarket fuel being cheap and nasty, but there's also lots of people who say it comes from the same depot as the fuel delivered to Shell or BP stations.


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## figbat (27 Jan 2021)

What lots of people don’t realise is what is actually in pump fuel. 99+% of it is ‘base fuel’, which comes from the same limited number of refineries and is distributed to all fuel sellers. What makes one fuel different to another is the small amount of additives that are added to the fuel to manage things like combustion properties, lubricity, foam, deposit formation and so on. This is dosed into the fuel during final distribution so whilst it might appear that ‘all fuel comes from the same place’, at the pump they differ by supplier.


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## Drago (27 Jan 2021)

The quality of the storage at each individual retail premises varies wildly, and makes a far bigger difference than any notional minor differences in the actual fuels themselves.


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## figbat (27 Jan 2021)

Maybe, but a well-kept fuel with no additives in it will always have no additives in it.


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## tyred (27 Jan 2021)

cosmicbike said:


> Oh all right then. My 27 year and 5 month old, 181,254 miles on the clock Volvo 240 passed 3 weeks ago.


My 25 year old Peugeot 205 with 234,000 miles passed in September. 

Whether or not it will pass this year without some welding remains to be seen but I will find out soon.


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## Drago (27 Jan 2021)

Mines a positive sprog with a mere 143,000 miles under it's belt, but in 10myears of tests it's never had an advisory. I don't know how long I can keep that going, but i'll certainly try.


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## fossyant (27 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Mines a positive sprog with a mere 143,000 miles under it's belt, but in 10myears of tests it's never had an advisory. I don't know how long I can keep that going, but i'll certainly try.



It's only 10.


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## fossyant (27 Jan 2021)

3 out of 4 failed four year old tyres got me last year, they weren't even half worn. Splits on the inner side wall. Wasn't happy as they were Maxxis, who make ace MTB tyres.


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## Drago (27 Jan 2021)

fossyant said:


> It's only 10.


13 this year.


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## fossyant (27 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> 13 this year.



Let you off, 12 !


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## Adam4868 (27 Jan 2021)

I think mines got about 180,000 miles on it.Barely run in ! MOT last week and a brake imbalance was it.Got a sticking front caliper.Got it passed and bought a second hand one from scrapyard.Ill get it fitted in next few weeks.


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## fossyant (27 Jan 2021)

My missus keeps saying, 'when are you going to change it'. Why, it just works. Unless it get's un-reliable, I'll keep it. The exhaust lasted 18 1/2 years, so not complaining. Still on all original brake pipes etc. All you need to do is wash the car, and jet wash off salt and mud from under the arches and the underfloor. 

Given how things have changed at work, it's just the bike lugger now. If I changed it, I'd get a 3 year old Nissan Pulsar 1.6T Tekna, slightly smaller, still easy to reach the roof, but a hatch, oh and 190 bhp, easily tuneable to 230 with a quick re-map, but still looks like your nan's car !


----------



## gbb (27 Jan 2021)

Not so much car diy but more car rescue...
DIL phoned me up tonight.....
'has my car got a spare wheel?'
'You got a puncture then ?'
'Errrr....'
She was across town, it's dark. 
'Gimme 10 minutes '

Yes, she had a space saver. Job done,


----------



## keithmac (27 Jan 2021)

gbb said:


> Not so much car diy but more car rescue...
> DIL phoned me up tonight.....
> 'has my car got a spare wheel?'
> 'You got a puncture then ?'
> ...



I made sure ours came with a spare, the tin of gunge and the crappy inflator don't cut it!.


----------



## keithmac (27 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I've used super diesel a couple of times.
> 
> The car did feel a bit more perky, but that is a very subjective judgment.
> 
> Lots online about supermarket fuel being cheap and nasty, but there's also lots of people who say it comes from the same depot as the fuel delivered to Shell or BP stations.



Yep it comes from the same place but the additive package is different.

We've used Tesco Diesel for 15 years or more but it definitely feels smoother to drive and idle which genuinely surprised me (I honestly didn't expect any difference).

Doing the family shop tomorrow while my wife is recovering so will see how it performs in the morning..


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## Adam4868 (27 Jan 2021)

I've allways thought a space saver was a sh1t idea.Bit like selling a car on the strength of it having cup holders ! Proper spare wheel ffs.


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## slowfen (28 Jan 2021)

1n the 90s/2000s I ran a fiesta 1.8 diesel, I took it to 125000 miles. As it was used for work I was logging all mileage.
Premium brands (shell/esso etc) gave 10% better fuel consumption. This more than offset the extra price. However I never tried the super versions.


----------



## keithmac (28 Jan 2021)

I'll have to see what Tesco is per litre, the fancy stuff was £1.35/ litre iirc.

A few people have said the mpg is better on the Premium diesel.


----------



## Electric_Andy (28 Jan 2021)

Well, I fitted a new alternator and a new battery the other week. Couldn't get the belt back on (stretchy belt, no tensioners) so the garage did it for me and replaced both belts while they were at it. I then went out the pther morning to a flat battery. Tested the alternator and it is certianly charging the battery. Must be some sort of drain. I had a look at my subwoofer in the boot and sure enough the remote power wire had come loose. I think it was either disconnected or making contact with the constant power wire so was draining all night. Have to test it later but hopefully that was the problem.

Next DIY job is make a tray for the subwoofer and box around the wires so my shopping doesn't keep catching them


----------



## Gunk (28 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> I've allways thought a space saver was a sh1t idea.Bit like selling a car on the strength of it having cup holders ! Proper spare wheel ffs.



Personally I’ve always thought runflats were a good idea, having had a puncture in our old 3 series touring with a boot full of luggage and two babies on board, being able to just drive on (albeit at reduced speed) to a garage to get it fixed was far more appealing than trying to change a wheel on the hard shoulder of the M6.

Mrs Gunks Mini has them, and I’ve just changed all four tyres, they are expensive, and that’s why lots of used Minis are just fitted with cheap regular tyres and a can of gloop in the boot, but I think they’re worth it


----------



## Adam4868 (28 Jan 2021)

Getting back to mileage on engines,I've had over 700,000 miles of a diesel engine in the past.The vehicle was falling apart when I scrapped it but engine was still good.Nissan 2.7 diesel,probally the best engines I've ever owned/drove.


----------



## fossyant (28 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> I've allways thought a space saver was a sh1t idea.Bit like selling a car on the strength of it having cup holders ! Proper spare wheel ffs.



Mine has what is labled as a space saver (big sticker on it) it's a steelie from the base model (smaller wheel, but higher profile tyre). I had a space saver on an Alfa once, bloody dangerous TBH - only drove the car home.


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## fossyant (28 Jan 2021)

Gunk said:


> Personally I’ve always thought runflats were a good idea, having had a puncture in our old 3 series touring with a boot full of luggage and two babies on board, being able to just drive on (albeit at reduced speed) to a garage to get it fixed was far more appealing than trying to change a wheel on the hard shoulder of the M6.
> 
> Mrs Gunks Mini has them, and I’ve just changed all four tyres, they are expensive, and that’s why lots of used Minis are just fitted with cheap regular tyres and a can of gloop in the boot, but I think they’re worth it



Many folk hate the ride quality though - quite harsh. Add in low profile run flats, oh my back ! Only ever had a 'flat' at home


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## Gunk (28 Jan 2021)

fossyant said:


> Many folk hate the ride quality though - quite harsh. Add in low profile run flats, oh my back ! Only ever had a 'flat' at home



the 3 series on 18’s and 19’s RF’s are not good, mine were 17’s and the Mini has 16” wheels so the ride is OK


----------



## Drago (28 Jan 2021)

No spare on my Volvo - its the 'sporty'model with the quad exhaust set up which takes up space where the spare would go. Its has the gunk and pump but I tells you, im rigorous about pressures and regularly checking for F.O.D.


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## tyred (28 Jan 2021)

Adam4868 said:


> Getting back to mileage on engines,I've had over 700,000 miles of a diesel engine in the past.The vehicle was falling apart when I scrapped it but engine was still good.Nissan 2.7 diesel,probally the best engines I've ever owned/drove.


I think there is between 350,000 to 400,000 miles on my 1991 1.6d VW (an estimate because I had to replace the instrument pod twice when they stopped working properly). It's been off the road now for about 2 years awaiting body refurbishment but the engine and gearbox are still going fine.

I think the highest mileage I ever saw on an engine without rebuilds was around 600,000 on a E36 BMW 325TDS that belonged to a friend of my uncle's.


----------



## Gunk (28 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> I think the highest mileage I ever saw on an engine without rebuilds was around 600,000 on a E36 BMW 325TDS that belonged to a friend of my uncle's.



I had a 325 TDS touring brand new back in 1996, I sold it to my parents three years later with just over 100,000 on the clock, they managed to clock up another 175,000 miles in it, still with the original clutch. The seats looked virtually unworn, the only tell tale sign of the inter-galactic mileage was a very worn leather steering wheel.


----------



## Moodyman (29 Jan 2021)

Rear windscreen wiper motor gave up on the Mk2 Octavia hatch.

£200+ at the dealer, £100-£150 backstreet garage for new motor and fitting.

Took bootlid trim off and dismantled motor. Wire brushed inner cogs to remove rust and corrosion, regreased and reinstalled*. Fully working again.

Cost = cold fingers and a bit of swearing.

* It's a common fault with VAG of the time as they ran the screenwash pipe next to the motor and it often came loose and dumped screenwash into the motor innards, washing out grease and causing corrosion. Now tied pipe down with electrical tape and cable tie.


----------



## Pale Rider (29 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> I think there is between 350,000 to 400,000 miles on my 1991 1.6d VW (an estimate because I had to replace the instrument pod twice when they stopped working properly). It's been off the road now for about 2 years awaiting body refurbishment but the engine and gearbox are still going fine.
> 
> I think the highest mileage I ever saw on an engine without rebuilds was around 600,000 on a E36 BMW 325TDS that belonged to a friend of my uncle's.



I've been told a million+ miles is quite common on passenger coaches.

No idea if the engines need rebuilding in that time.


----------



## gbb (29 Jan 2021)

keithmac said:


> I'll have to see what Tesco is per litre, the fancy stuff was £1.35/ litre iirc.
> 
> A few people have said the mpg is better on the Premium diesel.


Somewhat embarrassingly i cant remember if it was a diesel or petrol but in my working abroad days i used to get ferried to / from the airport by a guy with a 5 series estate who did all the companies shuttling back and forward.
He always maintained supermarket fuel gave poorer fuel economy (mind this was 15 years ago...how time flies). He was fastidious with his record keeping so i never had reason to doubt him....but who knows, you hear plenty of opinions the other way (realising that isnt quite the same as comparing premium with standard supermarket fuel)


----------



## gbb (29 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I've been told a million+ miles is quite common on passenger coaches.
> 
> No idea if the engines need rebuilding in that time.


Not quite the same but certainly the Mercedes lorries at a former employer were serviced within an inch of their lives, very well and regularly maintained. To go round the clock was no big deal at all.


----------



## Moodyman (29 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I've been told a million+ miles is quite common on passenger coaches.
> 
> No idea if the engines need rebuilding in that time.



That's perfectly plausible. Coaches and trucks do long continuous journeys which are kind to engines and drivetrains.

It's difficult to achieve a million miles for an ordinary car due to our congested roads. Stop/start driving kills cars quick.

In the US, where they do much longer journeys due its size, it's not uncommon for cars to glide past a million miles.


----------



## tyred (29 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I've been told a million+ miles is quite common on passenger coaches.
> 
> No idea if the engines need rebuilding in that time.


That's definitely possible. My Dad had several Volvo lorries that all ran past the million miles or more.


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## Phaeton (29 Jan 2021)

The 2007-2012 Toyota 2.2 D4D 150/180bhp variants were very susceptible to poor quality fuel, they had to pay for quite a few customer engines, can't remember exactly what it was but it was a big deal back around 2010, it took it that long to raise it's ugly head, if you go onto some Toyota forums & suggest all fuel is the same it's like making a homophobic or racist remark on this website.


----------



## figbat (29 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I've been told a million+ miles is quite common on passenger coaches.
> 
> No idea if the engines need rebuilding in that time.


As others have said, perfectly reasonable. I have spent some time working on oils for such vehicles (trucks, buses, agricultural and construction machinery etc) and a key factor with commercial vehicles is that they are both an asset and a liability. They are primarily money generators so need to be busy as much as possible because if they are idle they are money pits. Servicing is handled differently by different users - some use a guilt-edged service approach to keep the vehicle healthy and avoid unplanned downtime; this is an expensive approach though so others save costs on servicing and fix what breaks.

A busy truck is a happy truck though and 100,000 miles a year is not out of the question. Long journeys at constant speed are kind to the drivetrain so long-haul fleets can manage well. These engines have huge oil volumes too, so plenty to absorb all the power and abuse thrown at it (oil drain intervals can go up to 100,000 miles under perfect conditions). Throw in some hills, heavy loads or stop-start operation typical of, for example, construction equipment (idle, idle, idle.... FULL POWER!!.....idle, idle idle) or agricultural machines (hibernate, hibernate..... HARVEST!!!.... hibernate...) and component life can be shorter with more servicing and overhaul needed.


----------



## Adam4868 (29 Jan 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I've been told a million+ miles is quite common on passenger coaches.
> 
> No idea if the engines need rebuilding in that time.



The Nissan's 2.7 turbo and non turbo will do well over a million miles.Same engine that was fitted in the London taxi at one point.Pretty much indestructible unless you bolied them/overheated !


----------



## tyred (29 Jan 2021)

Now when I think about it I remember reading an article in a Car Mechanics a few years ago where they featured an E30 BMW which had something like 1.5 million miles covered but the car still had the original tyres.

The reason was that it had been used as a test mule by Mobil for testing different engine and transmission oils and had spent basically it's whole life inside on rollers.

It shows just how long an engine will last in ideal circumstances.

A friend of my Dad's had a late 1970s Massey Ferguson 565 which has over 30,000 hours on the clock on the original engine. The tractor was bought new and we'll maintained but it did work very hard for most of it's life. The clutch pedal had to be replaced as it wore through and the steering wheel is worn through to the steel! His son still owns it although it's enjoying a gentle retirement. It still starts instantly and uses very little oil.


----------



## figbat (29 Jan 2021)

There's a Volvo P1800 with over 3,000,000 miles on it. Admittedly it has had servicing and overhauls along the way but the same owner drove it from new until his death a few years ago.


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## gbb (29 Jan 2021)

figbat said:


> As others have said, perfectly reasonable. I have spent some time working on oils for such vehicles (trucks, buses, agricultural and construction machinery etc) and a key factor with commercial vehicles is that they are both an asset and a liability. They are primarily money generators so need to be busy as much as possible because if they are idle they are money pits. Servicing is handled differently by different users - some use a guilt-edged service approach to keep the vehicle healthy and avoid unplanned downtime; this is an expensive approach though so others save costs on servicing and fix what breaks.
> 
> A busy truck is a happy truck though and 100,000 miles a year is not out of the question. Long journeys at constant speed are kind to the drivetrain so long-haul fleets can manage well. These engines have huge oil volumes too, so plenty to absorb all the power and abuse thrown at it (oil drain intervals can go up to 100,000 miles under perfect conditions). Throw in some hills, heavy loads or stop-start operation typical of, for example, construction equipment (idle, idle, idle.... FULL POWER!!.....idle, idle idle) or agricultural machines (hibernate, hibernate..... HARVEST!!!.... hibernate...) and component life can be shorter with more servicing and overhaul needed.


Assets and a liability, good term.
At my former employer, once the largest fleet user of Mercs in the country, I kept all the records for our site transport. Circa 1995 a gearbox change was £6k, a clutch change was a few thousand, so the costs are high. At the other end of the scale, we had 2 or 3 older units that were just used as shunters, pretty much worn out and fairly wrecked looking and rusty. They went to auction and went for £6k each all that time ago. One had a pretty much dead gearbox and clutch.
I asked how on earth they were worth so much ? (Maybe I was naive about their real value)
The answer, they were destined for Africa...nothing , but nothing would be wasted, every component had a value in markets such as that, the trucks were a very valuable source of spares.


----------



## Bazzer (29 Jan 2021)

Long story short, 10 days ago Mrs B got a puncture on a busy road and buggins here was called out. Realistically, even if she knew how to change the wheel, she couldn't do it, as the 235 x 55 tyres on 17inch alloys on her Tiguan, are bloody heavy.
Whilst I have changed her wheels on our drive, that was at my pace, whereas because of the circumstances, the last incident had to be done as quickly as possible and was very unpleasant. It also rammed home how awkward it is fitting heavy wheels to non studded hubs, as quickly as possible, whilst trying to look out for motorists not keeping attention. 
So, a couple of days ago I bought a bolt with the correct thread:





Out with the grinder, off with the head and a quick tidy up of the burrs:





Now I have a wheel locating stud as part of her Tiguan's wheel changing kit.  

I will check tomorrow, if it is the same thread on child 2's Up! I think it is, in which case I have a second bolt...... And whilst her wheels are a lot lighter and she knows what to do, if it makes life easier in a stressful situation, 10 minutes of grinding is worth it.


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## figbat (29 Jan 2021)

My 1988 Audi 80 came with a plastic locating stud in the toolkit.


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## BoldonLad (29 Jan 2021)

Gunk said:


> Personally I’ve always thought* runflats were a good idea,* having had a puncture in our old 3 series touring with a boot full of luggage and two babies on board, being able to just drive on (albeit at reduced speed) to a garage to get it fixed was far more appealing than trying to change a wheel on the hard shoulder of the M6.
> 
> Mrs Gunks Mini has them, and I’ve just changed all four tyres, they are expensive, and that’s why lots of used Minis are just fitted with cheap regular tyres and a can of gloop in the boot, but I think they’re worth it



Yes, I thought that too, until an "incident" with a 3 series, some years ago, caused me to re-think.

First day of a three week holiday, travelling along French motorway, at 130kph. 

Puncture, by the time I stopped, tyre was shredded. We did have a space saver, so, I changed the tyre and drove on. to garage.

Then, the problems started, garage informed me matching tyres on 20 day lead time.

Phoned BMW breakdown service (car was 2 months old)... absolutely no help from them.

Found nearest BMW dealer, myself, and drove there, they were also unable to source a tyre.

Ended up at a French version of Quick-fit, where an enterprising tyre fitter rustled up a part worn, but serviceable replacement, and fitted it for free, allowing us to continue our holiday. 

Even when we returned to UK, it took 5 days to get a replacement tyre.

This all happened in 2003, so, things may have improved.


----------



## Bazzer (29 Jan 2021)

figbat said:


> .
> My 1988 Audi 80 came with a plastic locating stud in the toolkit.


Research suggested Audis did but the thread is different to VWs. Also the bigger VW Tuareg comes with a locating stud, as do (I think), the latest Golf Rs. 
More VW euro cent pinching.


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## Drago (29 Jan 2021)

To be fair, VW Group need the money to pay for the billions in fines around the world for Emissionsgate.


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## Gunk (29 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> To be fair, VW Group need the money to pay for the billions in fines around the world for Emissionsgate.



VAG still manage to make a good product. No one really cares about the Dieselgate fiasco, memories are very short.


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## DRM (29 Jan 2021)

tyred said:


> Now when I think about it I remember reading an article in a Car Mechanics a few years ago where they featured an E30 BMW which had something like 1.5 million miles covered but the car still had the original tyres.
> 
> The reason was that it had been used as a test mule by Mobil for testing different engine and transmission oils and had spent basically it's whole life inside on rollers.
> 
> ...


Went out to a fork truck this week, it was 5 years old and had done just shy of 25,000 hours, was scraped and battered but the diesel engine ran as sweet as a nut, was a Toyota 1DZ engine utterly bullet proof


----------



## Drago (29 Jan 2021)

Gunk said:


> VAG still manage to make a good product. No one really cares about the Dieselgate fiasco, memories are very short.


Memories aren't that short. I'm of Jewish heritage and refuse to own one.


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## Gunk (30 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Memories aren't that short. I'm of Jewish heritage and refuse to own one.



hence the Volvo


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## Phaeton (30 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Memories aren't that short. I'm of Jewish heritage and refuse to own one.


Shirley is that a rabbit hole we need to go down here?


----------



## Drago (30 Jan 2021)

Indeed, Phaeton is right.


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## cosmicbike (30 Jan 2021)

Drago said:


> Indeed, Phaeton is right.



He is, and I like this thread being free of me in my moderators hat, so lets keep it that way.


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## Richard A Thackeray (1 Feb 2021)

Moodyman said:


> Rear windscreen wiper motor gave up on the Mk2 Octavia hatch.
> 
> £200+ at the dealer, £100-£150 backstreet garage for new motor and fitting.
> 
> ...



I know all about this....
However, the washer is at the top, by the high-level brake-light (& has worked constantly)
1st attempt... https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/car-d-i-y.258173/page-18#post-6017888
Success!... https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/car-d-i-y.258173/page-19#post-6019790


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## Richard A Thackeray (1 Feb 2021)

Gunk said:


> Personally I’ve always thought runflats were a good idea, having had a puncture in our old 3 series touring with a boot full of luggage and two babies on board, being able to just drive on (albeit at reduced speed) to a garage to get it fixed was far more appealing than trying to change a wheel on the hard shoulder of the M6.
> Mrs Gunks Mini has them, and I’ve just changed all four tyres, they are expensive, and that’s why lots of used Minis are just fitted with cheap regular tyres and a can of gloop in the boot, but I think they’re worth it



Remember the old Dunlop Denovo?
Spilt-rims though?!


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5n7MRBfaQ4


----------



## Gunk (1 Feb 2021)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Remember the old Dunlop Denovo?
> Spilt-rims though?!
> 
> 
> View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5n7MRBfaQ4




Sadly I’m old enough to remember them. My Mum had a 1275GT back in the day


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## Richard A Thackeray (1 Feb 2021)

Gunk said:


> Sadly I’m old enough to remember them. My Mum had a 1275GT back in the day



So am I, & the TV adverts
(I'm 55)

My mothers first car was a (rather rotten) Mini Clubman, circa 1982?
From memory, it was held together with underseal


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## Gunk (1 Feb 2021)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> So am I, & the TV adverts
> (I'm 55)



Same age, I’m 56!


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## Drago (3 Feb 2021)

Fitted new wipers to the volvo. I always go for decent wipers, so this time went for Bosch aerotwins. Not cheap, but still 6 sheets cheaper than OE Volvo. Please to see the XC90 has a very simple click fit system, so no fannying about finding the correct adaptor etc.


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## Phaeton (14 Feb 2021)

Slight problem with the kit, I've bought Goodridge braided hoses for the brakes, it has new cunifer hard lines from the MC to the end of the braided hoses. I have a weep on one joint, clearly on brakes not acceptable, so cut back the cunifer & reflared it, reconnected & still got a leak. Going to try to replace the fitting tomorrow, but f that doesn't work all I can think is the flexible hose is faulty


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## fossyant (20 Feb 2021)

My son's mate turned up earlier. We've moved our cars off the drive. They are 'half way' through fittling lowering springs to his friend's DS3. They did have to pop out for a set of weird torx sockets as the Citroen has some odd bolts on the rear suspension. They are working socially distanced in the fresh air. They did have to take the gazebo down as it was about to blow away ! Fortunately, the rain has held off.


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## fossyant (20 Feb 2021)

They are onto the front now (rear finished), passenger side going back in with 45mm lower springs. Just drivers side to do.


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## cosmicbike (20 Feb 2021)

Drivers side headlight glass has had a hole in it since I bought the Volvo 240 last year, so after finding an original to replace it with on a well known auction site, I stripped the front end and replaced it. The damage has been done to the reflector bowl though, and I foresee an advisory on next years MOT....


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## fossyant (20 Feb 2021)

Slight issue. My son's friend had the bright idea of hitting the threadded top of the strut with a hammer to seat the suspension better. Erm they have damaged the thread. Made worse by trying to thread the nut back on and took half the thread off the nut, and then they tried the nut off the other side and damaged that.

They have called re-inforcements from a friend who has a tap and die set. I feel the car will be stuck on our drive a few days ! Lads eh. The friend isn't 'bothered' he's messed it up - worse case he just gets upgraded shocks as he was just doing the springs so far.

I just asked 'how's it going'... I just shook my head when I heard. They have to learn.. 

As a bear minimum they will need two new nuts.


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## fossyant (20 Feb 2021)

Oh well, car is going no-where. Friend is ordering upgraded aftermarket shocks. Two other 'assistants' have just turned up, and on more fiddling, the drive shaft popped out dumping transmission fluid over my drive I recon !


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## fossyant (21 Feb 2021)

I have a small oil slick on my drive. Scrubbed it with screw fix degreaser but I'll need more. They recon they lost a litre. They will have to drain the box then refill with 2.2 litres, as no way of measuring.

I said don't do it until you've installed the new shocks and springs just incase the drive shaft pops out again.


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## Phaeton (22 Feb 2021)

fossyant said:


> I said don't do it until you've installed the new shocks and springs just incase the drive shaft pops out again.


Been there done that on a Citroen C2 we were changing the strut, said to the lad, you need to keep the pressure on the drive shaft of it's pop out of the gearbox, just as it popped out of the gearbox. Isn't the fill hole the level hole on them? It's 4 years ago so can't remember


----------



## fossyant (22 Feb 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Been there done that on a Citroen C2 we were changing the strut, said to the lad, you need to keep the pressure on the drive shaft of it's pop out of the gearbox, just as it popped out of the gearbox. Isn't the fill hole the level hole on them? It's 4 years ago so can't remember



The fill hole is on the top of this, but it specifically says change to lot (which it would do). I've had others where the fill hole is on the side. It's a battery and battery tray out job to get to the fill hole - and to add to the fun, the ECU is attached ! 

I believe on my lad's skoda you can remove the drive shaft without the oil coming out.

I expect the car to be on my drive most of the week, unless his mate takes a day off - WFH ! He lives about 15 miles away !


----------



## Phaeton (22 Feb 2021)

fossyant said:


> I believe on my lad's skoda you can remove the drive shaft without the oil coming out.


Yes unfortunately Citroen do try to do things cheaply, as you mention others VW, Toyota, Mazda, BMW (only ones I have worked on recently) all split the driveshaft just before it goes into the gearbox/differential which makes life a lot easier, but costs more.


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## fossyant (24 Feb 2021)

The lads are back at it. No use of hammers this time . Front suspension now re-installed with new shocks and lowering springs. They now have to remove bits of engine cover and the battery to get at the gearbox oil filler hole !


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## fossyant (24 Feb 2021)

All done. Lads popped out to get a square socket for the gear box sump - finally ended up at Machine Mart and £20 lighter for a set, but it fitted. Drained, and re-filled with the correct amount of gearbox oil as there is no way of telling what they lost. Car re-assembled, tools put away. His car looks quite good, only 45mm lower, so nothing stupid.

They discovered the driver side CV gaitor strap had snapped at some point as my son's mate got a handful of CV grease - looks like it broke some time ago. Temporary repair with a jubilee clip, but you can get the correct straps and a fitting tool for not too much.

One of their mates took a look on Saturday and told them not to use the impact spanner tightening up the struts - big torque wrench used !

I gave them a spark plug socket with a 'hole' in the top, so they could use a 7mm allen key (from my bike tool chest) to hold the strut still, whilst the other one tightened up the nut using an open spanner on the socket. Worked a treat.


----------



## fossyant (26 Feb 2021)

Oh dear. Son's that happy with the job they did o his friends car, he's ordered a full set of adjustable coil overs.

Currently has his car in bits.


----------



## Scottish Scrutineer (26 Feb 2021)

I really hope they weren't using the impact wrench on the spring compressor 

A recipe for disaster and serious injuries


----------



## Phaeton (26 Feb 2021)

Scottish Scrutineer said:


> I really hope they weren't using the impact wrench on the spring compressor


B' rite


----------



## rockyroller (26 Feb 2021)

fossyant said:


> Oh dear. Son's that happy with the job they did o his friends car, he's ordered a full set of adjustable coil overs.
> Currently has his car in bits.


hehe excellent! I remember being young & every new-to-me car I got, the 1st thing I did, was change shocks/springs/struts, whatever, at all 4 corners. my Son's '94 Camry needs it bad, but not sure I want to spend my money (or his) that way, right now. he needs to replace that car altogether


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## Phaeton (26 Feb 2021)

Started adding the bodywork


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## fossyant (26 Feb 2021)

All fitted and the car is 50mm lower. New shocks and springs. The front runs on two different springs rather than one.

The anti roll bar was rubbing the drive shaft so my son turned round the drop link that moved the bar out of the way. Ideally he needs shorter drop links.

His lower wishbone bushings are worn, so he has poly bushes on order as his top link bush has already got poly bushes.

The car will be no good for my back.


----------



## rockyroller (26 Feb 2021)

fossyant said:


> The car will be no good for my back.


hehe that's what young spongy spinal disks are for


----------



## shep (1 Mar 2021)

As part of my camper resto I'm changing springs, shocks, brakes etc, spot the deliberate mistake......


----------



## Phaeton (1 Mar 2021)

shep said:


> As part of my camper resto I'm changing springs, shocks, brakes etc, spot the deliberate mistake......


You're trying to fit calipers to drum shoes


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## Drago (1 Mar 2021)

You fitted the calipers to the floor instead of the camper?


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## BianchiVirgin (1 Mar 2021)

They don't match.


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## shep (1 Mar 2021)

It's a bench as it happens but no, maybe 'spot the difference ' should have been a better description.


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## Adam4868 (1 Mar 2021)

Wrong Caliper ?


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## cosmicbike (1 Mar 2021)

Different caliper, an upgrade perhaps?


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## shep (1 Mar 2021)

Casting the same but brake pipe entry point drilled in the wrong place, sent back and got some coming from a different supplier.


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## Phaeton (1 Mar 2021)

You sure you've tried to fit the NS to the OS and visa versa, DAHIKT when the bleeds are at the bottom not the top


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## shep (1 Mar 2021)

Phaeton said:


> You sure you've tried to fit the NS to the OS and visa versa, DAHIKT when the bleeds are at the bottom not the top


If you look closely the new one has the brake pipe hole in the centre of where the piston is whereas the original is on the top.


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## Phaeton (2 Mar 2021)

shep said:


> If you look closely the new one has the brake pipe hole in the centre of where the piston is whereas the original is on the top.


As long as there was no fouling on the pipes I'd have probably would have still fitted them, if the flexi's reached


----------



## shep (2 Mar 2021)

Phaeton said:


> As long as there was no fouling on the pipes I'd have probably would have still fitted them, if the flexi's reached


It's a small solid copper that goes to the caliper then a flexi from that to that to another copper to Master cylinder.


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## Phaeton (2 Mar 2021)

shep said:


> It's a small solid copper that goes to the caliper then a flexi from that to that to another copper to Master cylinder.


Had similar on Mini's the short copper pipe may not be original & the flex goes straight into the hole in the middle of the caliper, it could be the ones you have taken off have been replaced at some point & the new ones are how the should be. But if you have replacements coming it doesn't matter either way


----------



## gbb (4 Mar 2021)

Borrowed the 'love bus' tonight, a Fiat Doblo Hightop, it gets used maybe 6 times a year so the battery is inevitably flat when I got to it. Sat with jump leads on it for 10 minutes just to let the batteries equalise a bit....several failed attempts...impatience being the cause.
Got it going at about the 6th try after 15 minutes or so.
It had a spare battery in it, not enough juice to get the diesel started so it's getting a trickle charge tonight, ready for a tip run on Saturday.
55 plate, 1.9 JTD turbo, 155k miles, engine is sweet as a nut when it's going....the rest rattles and clanks a bit...but a good workhorse.


----------



## Drago (4 Mar 2021)

I love cars like the Doblo and Berlingo - they do exactly what they say on the tin with no attempt at pretension.


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## Richard A Thackeray (4 Mar 2021)

gbb said:


> Borrowed the 'love bus' tonight, a Fiat Doblo Hightop, it gets used maybe 6 times a year so the battery is inevitably flat when I got to it. Sat with jump leads on it for 10 minutes just to let the batteries equalise a bit....several failed attempts...impatience being the cause.
> Got it going at about the 6th try after 15 minutes or so.
> It had a spare battery in it, not enough juice to get the diesel started so it's getting a trickle charge tonight, ready for a tip run on Saturday.
> 55 plate, 1.9 JTD turbo, 155k miles, engine is sweet as a nut when it's going....the rest rattles and clanks a bit...but a good workhorse.



Many years ago (2003), we almost bought a Kangoo(?), but the Skoda main-dealer offered us a good deal on a new Fabia estate
As much as I liked the Fabia, & its quirky colour, I wondered what it would have been like to own a Kangoo


----------



## gbb (4 Mar 2021)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> Many years ago (2003), we almost bought a Kangoo(?), but the Skoda main-dealer offered us a good deal on a new Fabia estate
> As much as I liked the Fabia, & its quirky colour, I wondered what it would have been like to own a Kangoo


Being van derived in both cases (Doblo and Kangoo) I assume...I find it very upright the seats, you sit high. With the armrests it's a very roomy and a relaxed drive, like slouching upright. I love it, its quirky...if fugly.


----------



## Pale Rider (5 Mar 2021)

I drove a Honda Acty van for a Honda dealer as a summer job.

Great fun, you could overtake lines of traffic almost like a bicycle, and pull strokes such as using wheelchair ramps in car parks.

The garage fitted a folding rear seat, so the Acty could be used by their five-a-side football team.


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## Richard A Thackeray (5 Mar 2021)

Pale Rider said:


> I drove a Honda Acty van for a Honda dealer as a summer job.
> 
> Great fun, you could overtake lines of traffic almost like a bicycle, and pull strokes such as using wheelchair ramps in car parks.
> 
> The garage fitted a folding rear seat, so the Acty could be used by their five-a-side football team.


I used to have a Bedford Rascal

Damned scary things though on wet roundabouts, or on m-way, with trucks overtaking

It was useful for bike-transport/mobile changing room


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## Drago (5 Mar 2021)

A Honda Accy?!


----------



## fossyant (6 Mar 2021)

Following my son and one of his mates lowering his car, my son decided to go the whole hog with coil overs. Well his mate has been back today with a full set of coil overs for his car so they have been fitting them today.

We've noticed a problem with one of my son's locking wheel nuts - the garage had fitted it on too tight when he had a new tyre about 12 months ago. We can't get it off. He's even been back to the garage and they can't remove it. There is an engineering place next door who will drill it out for about £60. 

Just googled and found a guy had positioned his car near the house wall and used a sissor jack to hold the breaker bar and locknut key tight to the locknut (the key wobbles about - even a brand new one). We'll give that a go tomorrow, as well as heating the hub with the blow torch. We'll stick a big pipe on the end of the breaker bar.


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## Drago (6 Mar 2021)

A set of extractor sockets and a mallet will give change from £20.


----------



## Gunk (6 Mar 2021)

Closed the drivers door on my Mk 7 Golf during the week and glass for the wing mirror popped off and smashed on the floor.

Replacement (with the backing plate) was £65 from the main stealers 🤑

A couple of minutes to fit and it’s all fixed. It was a bit hairy driving without a drivers side mirror for a couple of days.

I also wedged some hard foam behind the rev counter on Mrs G’s R55 Mini to stop the rattling at 50 mph, works perfectly!


----------



## gbb (6 Mar 2021)

Different driving styles...
My car, 2015 Astra still has the original brake pads at nearly 70k miles
My daughter has a late 2015, early 2016 Astra GTC with 20k miles...and her husband replaced the pads today. (as well as an oil and filter change)
One day I'm going to look at her trip computer, see what MPG shes achieving


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## bikingdad90 (7 Mar 2021)

gbb said:


> Different driving styles...
> My car, 2015 Astra still has the original brake pads at nearly 70k miles
> My daughter has a late 2015, early 2016 Astra GTC with 20k miles...and her husband replaced the pads today. (as well as an oil and filter change)
> One day I'm going to look at her trip computer, see what MPG shes achieving


My 2015 scenic is on its second set of discs and pads all round and it only has 65,000 miles on the clock. It’s a flipping heavy car, but I need the 3 isofix seats in the back at the moment. As we are both home working the mileage has gone right down and it’s wasted as a diesel but needs must as we can’t afford any of the other options out there (S-max, C4 Picasso, Touran, BMW X5).


----------



## Phaeton (7 Mar 2021)

New rear tyres on the Rav4 not too bad £160 the pair fitted, had it 7 years now, 46K miles put on it & they weren't new tyres when we bought it.


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2021)

Drago said:


> A set of extractor sockets and a mallet will give change from £20.



Sorted it.

Power of google. Scissor jack and pressure onto the locknut key made of cheese, and I only needed to lean on it with an 18" breaker bar.

Oh and a handy wall from the house.

Saved £60. Took me longer to find the locknuts as son still in bed.


----------



## tyred (7 Mar 2021)

A scissor jack is such a versatile piece of kit. Do many ways in which you can use it.

My 25 year old Pug passed test first time this morning


----------



## Drago (7 Mar 2021)

I use a scissor jack as a rifle rest when up the outdoor range.


----------



## dave r (7 Mar 2021)

tyred said:


> A scissor jack is such a versatile piece of kit. Do many ways in which you can use it.



A long time ago, when we were newly married, we spent twelve months with a jack holding up one corner of our bed after we broke a leg off the bed and had to wait a while before we replaced it.


----------



## Ming the Merciless (7 Mar 2021)

Filled up car with fuel a few weeks back . Impressed with my car DIY skills.


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## bikingdad90 (7 Mar 2021)

dave r said:


> A long time ago, when we were newly married, we spent twelve months with a jack holding up one corner of our bed after we broke a leg off the bed and had to wait a while before we replaced it.


Bet that put a dampener on bedroom activity for a while; you know newly married couples never get our bed 🛌 🤣😘


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## Phaeton (7 Mar 2021)

Ming the Merciless said:


> Filled up car with fuel a few weeks back . Impressed with my car DIY skills.


Did you notice the huge increase in price?


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## Ming the Merciless (7 Mar 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Did you notice the huge increase in price?



Yep car doubled in value


----------



## Drago (7 Mar 2021)

Going to fill up mine on friday. Haven't topped it off since before christmas, andnits almost down to half a tank.


----------



## fossyant (8 Mar 2021)

I filled up at the end of November, still over 1/4 of a tank left !

My son is onto, what is hopefully, the last of the suspension fettling. After fitting front two new top mounts (ended up with poly bushes as the replacements were crap), we discovered the top mount bearing on the side that had been 'fiddled with' for an MOT had broken. New bearing required.

The knackered top mount, bearing and lower arm bushing have all been on the left !

My son's just removed the lower arms and the bushing fell out of the left side (not good). These are now being replaced by poly bushes as he's upgraded his suspension anyway.


----------



## fossyant (8 Mar 2021)

Adjustable coilovers






Poly bushes on lower arms


----------



## stephec (9 Mar 2021)

dave r said:


> A long time ago, when we were newly married, we spent twelve months with a jack holding up one corner of our bed after we broke a leg off the bed and had to wait a while before we replaced it.


Breaking the bed, even for newly weds that's impressive. 😉


----------



## yo vanilla (15 Mar 2021)

This weekend I was replacing the seal on the upper timing cover for my Audi... and this happened


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## steven1988 (22 Mar 2021)

I spent today polishing my idea for a bike rack in the back of my van, the rack was too wide for the cyclocross tyres so i have filled it out with some 12mm ply. 

They are now snug but the top is










catching on the spokes, tomorrow's plan is to take them back out and take an inch off the top so it will be all tyre and a bungee cord to hold them in.


----------



## tyred (5 Apr 2021)

I replaced a seized rear brake calliper and fitted new pads on my Mum's Kia Soul. Pretty straightforward really, much less hassle than working on drum brakes, but the replacement shoes and two new rear cylinders for my 205 cost about half of what calliper cost for the Kia.

The horn has also stopped working and I couldn't seem to find it to test if there is power getting to it. Mr Google informs me that the whole front bumper assembly has to be removed from the Soul to access the horn

Give me my ancient Peugeot any day. It's cheaper and easier to maintain it.


----------



## Phaeton (6 Apr 2021)

Edd China has popped up again trying to get yet another Youtube channel going 
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snL20nBCi04&t=23s
although I respect his knowledge I'm not sure he's a born presenter.


----------



## Rooster1 (6 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Edd China has popped up again trying to get yet another Youtube channel going
> View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=snL20nBCi04&t=23s
> although I respect his knowledge I'm not sure he's a born presenter.



Haha - I know where he lives (not telling) but I said hello as I passed him on his drive when I was out riding.


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## Drago (6 Apr 2021)

Sadly, I reckon both Ant and Elvis are better spannermen too.

Edd's a director for several companies, his address isn't hard to find. The anus of a town isn't that large.


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## tyred (11 Apr 2021)

I replaced the horn on my Mum's Kia today, managed to avoid having to completely remove the front bumper. I undid the top studs and managed to fit my hand in to unscrew it.

I fitted the fancy dual tone jobs robbed from an old Audi 80 Sport, sounds much better than the pathetic original.

I also got two new tyres fitted to the front of my Peugeot.


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## dave r (11 Apr 2021)

tyred said:


> I replaced the horn on my Mum's Kia today, managed to avoid having to completely remove the front bumper. I undid the top studs and managed to fit my hand in to unscrew it.
> 
> I fitted the fancy dual tone jobs robbed from an old Audi 80 Sport, sounds much better than the pathetic original.
> 
> I also got two new tyres fitted to the front of my Peugeot.



My Suzuki Swift needed a new bonnet catch last year, Suzuki were telling me it would need the front of the car dismantling and it would cost me two arms and three legs, I took it to the local garage they did it while I waited, took them less than half an hour and they charged twenty five quid for the fitting.


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## shep (11 Apr 2021)

Bit more done.


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## Drago (11 Apr 2021)

dave r said:


> My Suzuki Swift needed a new bonnet catch last year, Suzuki were telling me it would need the front of the car dismantling and it would cost me two arms and three legs, I took it to the local garage they did it while I waited, took them less than half an hour and they charged twenty five quid for the fitting.


Suzuki will do it the way the factory advise, covers their arriss in any subsequent liabilty claims. Sometimes thats a good thing, sometimes thats a bad thing. For a simple bonnet catch I'm not sure thats a good thing, but I can understand their reluctance to deviate from manufacturers processes.

Ive been thinking of selling my car and the motorhome and getting a camper or a day camper. I do like some of the VW's, but object to paying the 'VW tax', and being Jewish im disimclined to purchase any product from the company.

Despite all that, I do rather like the look of the shape/model you have there.


----------



## dave r (11 Apr 2021)

Drago said:


> Suzuki will do it the way the factory advise, covers their arriss in any subsequent liabilty claims. Sometimes thats a good thing, sometimes thats a bad thing. For a simple bonnet catch I'm not sure thats a good thing, but I can understand their reluctance to deviate from manufacturers processes.
> 
> Ive been thinking of selling my car and the motorhome and getting a camper or a day camper. I do like some of the VW's, but object to laying the 'VW tax', and being Jewish im disimclined to purchase any product from the company.
> 
> Despite all that, I do rather like the look of the shape/model you have there.



Originally the local mechanic fixed it with a spare spring he found in the workshop, it was only the spring that had failed, apparently a not uncommon problem, they tend to rust, but I wasn't happy with that as a long term solution so I went looking for a new spring and was told they don't do just the spring but I'd have to have the whole catch.


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## cosmicbike (11 Apr 2021)

shep said:


> View attachment 583300
> 
> 
> Bit more done.



Did most of Europe as it was in one them, folks bought it new after having had a bay window for a few years. B442 ABH from memory.


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## shep (11 Apr 2021)

cosmicbike said:


> Did most of Europe as it was in one them, folks bought it new after having had a bay window for a few years. B442 ABH from memory.


Had mine almost 20yrs now, kids grew up with it so thought it time to bestow some love on him.


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## Bazzer (11 Apr 2021)

Had a very unpleasant surprise this morning. 
During the last couple of days I have been giving the wheels and arches on Mrs B's Tiguan a deep clean following winter. I came to do the same on my Golf, so off with the first wheel; or so I thought.
Normal socket bar - Wheel stud wouldn't move
Extension bar - Nothing
Steel pipe added to extension bar - Zero movement
Electric impact driver - Nothing

Out of 20 wheel studs only 2 would remove and those only with the impact driver. 
The car was only bought last September! I thought the days of overpowered tyre guns were behind us, but obviously not.
I'll need to ring the garage who looks after Mrs B's car tomorrow and get it booked in.


----------



## Phaeton (11 Apr 2021)

Bazzer said:


> The car was only bought last September! I thought the days of overpowered tyre guns were behind us, but obviously not.


Might be a VW thing, son has a LT35 flatbed, we torqued his wheel nuts up to 110, tried to get them off a few weeks later even a 450 impact gun wouldn't touch them, ended up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar & a 6ft pole with his 18st bouncing on it.


----------



## figbat (11 Apr 2021)

I might be tempted to put a long breaker bar on, have it resting on the ground or a brick or block of wood, and then either push the car or, if really wound up, get in and slowly drive it so the breaker bar turns the nuts anti-clockwise.

Many years ago I used a similar technique to free an alloy wheel from an iron hub - slackened the nuts a little, put it in gear and dropped the clutch. There was an almight ‘crack’ and the wheel was free.


----------



## Bazzer (11 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Might be a VW thing, son has a LT35 flatbed, we torqued his wheel nuts up to 110, tried to get them off a few weeks later even a 450 impact gun wouldn't touch them, ended up with a 3/4 drive breaker bar & a 6ft pole with his 18st bouncing on it.


Didn't have a problem with my last Golf and Mrs B's wheels haven't been a problem at any time during the last 2 1/2 years of her ownership, despite those wheel studs being torqued to 120nm.
I'll ring the garage in the morning. My main sockets are 1/2" and although I have 3/8 and 1/4, I don't go up in size and with the 1/2" and a steel pipe on the extension bar, it didn't feel as if it was going to take the full weight of 75kgs hanging off the end.


figbat said:


> I might be tempted to put a long breaker bar on, have it resting on the ground or a brick or block of wood, and then either push the car or, if really wound up, get in and slowly drive it so the breaker bar turns the nuts anti-clockwise.
> 
> Many years ago I used a similar technique to free an alloy wheel from an iron hub - slackened the nuts a little, put it in gear and dropped the clutch. There was an almight ‘crack’ and the wheel was free.


If it was a single stud I would be tempted, but I've 18 refusing to move.


----------



## Phaeton (13 Apr 2021)

So up at 6am, coffee out to transporter which refused to start in the minus temperature, a frantic 15 minutes later & some carb cleaner it started, got to the test station with 15 minutes to spare, which was okay, but more stress than I would have liked







Unfortunately a fail before it got into the garage on the first 2, but not a bad result.

1. The wheel arches are in the correct place, but I read the regs wrong, the arch has to cover between 30 & 50 degrees, about 150mm of the centre line which how I did them, what I didn't realise is there has to be some cover on the 150mm, but it's quite an easy fix.

2. The windscreen is from a 1973 VW Beetle 1303, it is laminated, but it does not have an E mark, or state it's laminated, so another fail

3. Emissions, not sure why but the hydrocarbons were fine, the Lambda is fine, but the Co2 has to be less than 0.3, it was 0.7, but interestingly it got very hot & the fan did not cut in, so it could hopefully just be the temp sender for the ECU, the gauge & the ECU use different ones.

4. The seatbelt anchors below the seat, I used a nut & bolt, but apparently it has to be a bolt with a welded nut, you have to be able to remove them with a single spanner, so you can release the person in the seat, WTF you wouldn't just put a knife through the belt I don't know, but I'm not there to argue.

5. There is a slight weep on the rear NS brake line where it goes from hard pipe to flexi, never seen any fluid on the floor so I suspect it's only when under pressure, hopefully it can be nipped up, or the hard pipe flare remade.


----------



## Bazzer (13 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> So up at 6am, coffee out to transporter which refused to start in the minus temperature, a frantic 15 minutes later & some carb cleaner it started, got to the test station with 15 minutes to spare, which was okay, but more stress than I would have liked
> 
> View attachment 583733
> 
> ...


Unlucky, but at least fixable.
Unless kit cars have their own regs, the seatbelt anchor regulation has been in place for many years. It was something I hadn't actively considered, but came across it when I stripped my Stag (72 reg). It stuck in my mind because one of the bolts was a particular barsteward, which ultimately sheared in the captive nut and had to be drilled out.


----------



## Drago (13 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> So up at 6am, coffee out to transporter which refused to start in the minus temperature, a frantic 15 minutes later & some carb cleaner it started, got to the test station with 15 minutes to spare, which was okay, but more stress than I would have liked
> 
> View attachment 583733
> 
> ...


I see you stuck a £20 note on each tyre for the tester


----------



## Tail End Charlie (13 Apr 2021)

What sort of kit car is it? I had presumed you had a Phaeton.


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## Phaeton (13 Apr 2021)

Tail End Charlie said:


> What sort of kit car is it? I had presumed you had a Phaeton.


This one is a MEV Mevster, one of only 20 ever made, we only know where 9 of them are, MX5 based. Yes built a Dutton Phaeton back in 1980 & put it on the road in 1981.



Drago said:


> I see you stuck a £20 note on each tyre for the tester


Maybe I should have tried £50's


----------



## Phaeton (14 Apr 2021)

No1 on my list addressed today






New one ordered, just waiting for delivery information.


----------



## Gunk (14 Apr 2021)

That is a nuisance having to change it


----------



## Phaeton (19 Apr 2021)

After the debacle of the transported not starting for the IVA test, I went out with trepidation to see about changing the glowplugs on it. Armed with a brand new 6 sided 10mm socket & a can of Plus gas. gave the based a good spray, then tried to back each off, then tightened again, back off & tighten a few more times & each came out. Once changed it started 1st throw of the switch, but it wasn't minus 2, so we'll see if it has any real effect. Put each of the old ones across a battery & the tips did glow red, so they weren't completely shot, although the wiring was damaged on No4


----------



## Badger_Boom (19 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> No1 on my list addressed today
> 
> View attachment 584004
> 
> ...


Could you not just have etched 'Laminated' on it somewhere?


----------



## Phaeton (19 Apr 2021)

Badger_Boom said:


> Could you not just have etched 'Laminated' on it somewhere?


I suppose I could, but that would have had to have been in the back & would have been obvious if you scratched it with a finger nail, whereas the new one has it etched into the front screen of the laminate so you can't feel it. It's £90 plus fuel costs to go back for a retest, or £93.25 for a new one, plus a tube of Tiger Seal, one is risky the other not, I chose the non risky option.


----------



## Drago (25 Apr 2021)

Reading the regs it seems the screen only has to "bear" the mark.


----------



## Phaeton (25 Apr 2021)

Drago said:


> Reading the regs it seems the screen only has to "bear" the mark.


It's done now, but I am having a nightmare trying to get the CO level within limits, I'm going to see a dyno specialist tomorrow to see if he has any clues, what's happening is just not logical.


----------



## Phaeton (25 Apr 2021)

For those who may have some pearls of wisdom.

Things I have done yesterday & today.

Removed the air temp sender, connected to multimeter, warmed it up with a hairdryer the resistance changed, tried the air temp sender in front of the MAF where it is as stock & also after MAF where I am running it, the readings were consistent in both positions with the engine running.
MAF, ran the engine at 1k, 1.5k, 2k, 2,5k & 3k & took the voltage at each step, plotted them on a graph & got an almost perfect straight line, which should indicate it's working as expected.
TPS, connected multimeter & then as the TPS was opened it was a steady increase in resistance & decrease as it was closed, tapping it gently at any given point doesn't make any difference.
Water temperature sender, as the water got hotter the voltage decreased, if the connector is removed the engine note changes & switches on the fan if the engine gets hot is also switches on the fan.
Fitted a new Lambda, even though I'm convinced there was nothing wrong with the last one, checked the wiring multiple times, I'm sure it's wired correctly
I've also continuity tested all the wires from the senders back to the ECU, I am now at my wits end, I have no further thoughts, I'm going to see the guy to who I've taken my carburettor cars to , he has a dyno etc. he works on programmable ECU's but as this is a sealed ECU I'm not sure he will be able to do anything.


----------



## Drago (25 Apr 2021)

How badly out is the CO?


----------



## midlife (25 Apr 2021)

Most modern ECU's can be remapped so hopefully mapper can sort out the emissions


----------



## Phaeton (25 Apr 2021)

Drago said:


> How badly out is the CO?


Needs be be less than 0.3, currently no matter what I appear to be it's 0.7


midlife said:


> Most modern ECU's can be remapped so hopefully mapper can sort out the emissions


It's 1998, so not exactly modern, it's not even OBD compatible but the tuner races & works on MX5's so I'm hoping he may have some test equipment.


----------



## midlife (25 Apr 2021)

Ah! My old 400 odd BHP methanol injected Impreza from 2001 had a mappable DENSO Ecu. Before that it was the black art of motherboards or replacing the Ecu!, presumably the AFR is way off stoic if so much Co?


----------



## Bazzer (26 Apr 2021)

Any air leaks?


----------



## Phaeton (26 Apr 2021)

Bazzer said:


> Any air leaks?


Not that I can hear/find, I would expect to see some evidence of sooty deposit


----------



## Drago (26 Apr 2021)

What exhaust is it running? Is the design allowing sufficient scavenging?


----------



## Phaeton (26 Apr 2021)

Others running the same setup don't have problems


----------



## Bazzer (26 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Others running the same setup don't have problems


Cat converter f*****d? Would a cleaner help?

Not DIY, but found Mrs B's Tiguan wishbone bushes were wrecked. - Not an ideal discovery when braking on a dual carriageway.😳 The car is on a 64 plate FFS!
Anyway, having fought track rod end bushes on my Stag it was off to the local garage. £245 notes later, I was quite glad I hadn't attempted it, as even he said they were a bastard to fit.

Meanwhile in Triumph world, I am hoping to collect 2 cylinder heads this weekend. I should have picked them up last last Saturday, but I unexpectedly needed to be home to support Mrs B and child 2.


----------



## Phaeton (26 Apr 2021)

Brand new Cat but suspect that's the issue ordered a type approved one now 3 times the cost but if it works then it's worth it


----------



## Scottish Scrutineer (27 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Brand new Cat but suspect that's the issue ordered a type approved one now 3 times the cost but if it works then it's worth it


Apart from the air leaks issues mentioned by others, can you get the engine and exhaust up to full operating temperature before the test? Some "Sports" cats are not that good at working unless fully warmed up.

Air/exhaust leaks don't always seem that visible, are there any flexi pipe sections? They seem to cause frequent problems.


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## Phaeton (27 Apr 2021)

Scottish Scrutineer said:


> Apart from the air leaks issues mentioned by others, can you get the engine and exhaust up to full operating temperature before the test? Some "Sports" cats are not that good at working unless fully warmed up.
> 
> Air/exhaust leaks don't always seem that visible, are there any flexi pipe sections? They seem to cause frequent problems.


Getting it up to temperature with an Italian tune up is difficult as it's not road registered, so it can only be done statically, although it's booked in on Thursday with a rolling road specialist, so at least he should be able to simulate a drive, but that will not help me on the retest, however if he confirms that is the issue I do have the option to drive it there, I would prefer not to. I would like to do my shake down tests after it's registered. There's no flexi involved, it comes as a 4-2-1 which has the Lambda, then straight onto the Cat, then stainless to the back & the silencer across the back of he car. Hopefully the new Cat which is due before 12:08 via DHL will sort out the issues, assuming it's a straight swap


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## Phaeton (27 Apr 2021)

Cat here ahead of target, looks the same which is good, it's a while since I lifted the one that's on, but first impression is this one is much heavier


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## Scottish Scrutineer (29 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Cat here ahead of target, looks the same which is good, it's a while since I lifted the one that's on, but first impression is this one is much heavier


I hope this fixes the problem. The RR session will be helpful too. If you've not witnessed one before, it can be a bit intimidating, especially if its your car


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## gbb (29 Apr 2021)

Are you fitting OEM sensors (lambda) ? I hear aftermarket ones can sometimes not work well at all on some cars, ditto the cat .
MAP sensor ? (assuming one is fitted)
Throttle body clean ? Buildup around the butterfly can cause issues with mixtures being thrown off.


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## Phaeton (29 Apr 2021)

Scottish Scrutineer said:


> I hope this fixes the problem. The RR session will be helpful too. If you've not witnessed one before, it can be a bit intimidating, especially if its your car





gbb said:


> Are you fitting OEM sensors (lambda) ? I hear aftermarket ones can sometimes not work well at all on some cars, ditto the cat .
> MAP sensor ? (assuming one is fitted)
> Throttle body clean ? Buildup around the butterfly can cause issues with mixtures being thrown off.


Fitting the better quality Cat appears to have fixed the problem, CO levels came down from 0.7 region to the 0.07 area, although the tuners suggestion is to replace the new Bocsh Lambda with a Denso/Nippon one, he believes the Japanese ones work better with Japanese cars.

Oh & it made a huge 110bhp


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## gbb (29 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Fitting the better quality Cat appears to have fixed the problem, CO levels came down from 0.7 region to the 0.07 area, although the tuners suggestion is to replace the new Bocsh Lambda with a Denso/Nippon one, he believes the Japanese ones work better with Japanese cars.
> 
> Oh & it made a huge 110bhp


Yebbut, 110 bhp pushing something the weight of a carrier bag  is probably good going ( but I suspect you know that already )


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## Pale Rider (30 Apr 2021)

Moral of the cat story is pattern parts are rarely a good idea.

In my brief career as a Saturday boy mechanic, we came across several examples.


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## Phaeton (30 Apr 2021)

We now have an issue with the LT35, it went to Santa Pod with the drift car on the back, no issue on the way down, come to try to come home & it wouldn't start. Would fire & run for 1-2 seconds, then stop, it did the same when I once tried to start it with the wrong key. We think it's the immobiliser not coming off, we got it recovered home, which was fun when the recovery guy turned up & saw the BMW on the back of it.

Went out yesterday & the fing started up first throw of the switch but on turning off it now won't start again, looks like we need to find somebody with Vagcom or VDCS (or some such acronym) going to pull hte ECU this afternoon as they appear prone to water damage, hopefully that's all it is.


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## Phaeton (30 Apr 2021)

Charged the LT35 battery up overnight, put it on this afternoon & it fired up, so moved it off the road where it's been for the last 36 hours, much to our neighbours annoyance. Got it onto the drive then turned it off, it started up 6 more times without any issue, but still decided to look for the fault.

Went for the ECU to find




















Started to gently try to clean up the ECU but came across at least 1 broken pin




Anybody know a good company that is likely to be able to repair it?


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## cosmicbike (30 Apr 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Anybody know a good company that is likely to be able to repair it?



Seem to be well thought of on one of the Volvo forums I frequent, not used myself.

https://the-ecu-doctor.co.uk/


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## Phaeton (30 Apr 2021)

Looks like it's the only broken pin, so we're wondering now if we can just wire around it, solder a wire on the inside drill a hole in the case & connect back to the wire in the harness.

Watched video where the guy used vinegar to clean off the verdigris anybody any other thoughts?


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## gbb (1 May 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Looks like it's the only broken pin, so we're wondering now if we can just wire around it, solder a wire on the inside drill a hole in the case & connect back to the wire in the harness.
> 
> Watched video where the guy used vinegar to clean off the verdigris anybody any other thoughts?


I like the theory although making it absolutely moisture proof might be hard (if I'm interpreting your description correctly)
I had a miniature output relay go once in a small control unit in a machine. No spare available but I found a bigger relay, soldered link wires from the PCB to the new relay and sat it in a space in the unit. Worked perfectly. It sometimes pays to think outside the box.


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## Phaeton (1 May 2021)

Had a proper look today there are 3 broken pins fortunately 2 aren't used but 1 is so for now this is the solution


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## Illaveago (14 May 2021)

I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas on a good OBD2 reader. We have decided not to be fleeced by the main dealer To have an oil change when it doesn't need it . Most of the service is what a garage does for an MOT so no point in paying twice .
I have a Jaguar XE 20t with the Ford Ecoboost engine .
Thanks .


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## fossyant (14 May 2021)

There are quite a few. My son's ODB2 reader does most of the VAG stuff. Mine is a bit more generic but it can clear codes. I've got a bluetooth one that runs Torque app on my phone. Someone could recommend a good JRL unit.


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## fossyant (14 May 2021)

After my son fried his ECU by trying to flash it (and lost power) - no idea why he was doing this.... he picked up a new ECU for £200 but it wasn't coded to the car, so wouldn't work, plus all the component's threw errors as they weren't coded to it.

VAG wanted £1200 plus to do it. He contacted a specialist about 12 miles away - £86. AA towed him out there and car was fixed within a couple of hours. Jus thope he learns... I doubt it as...

He has a turbo off a 1.4 TSI to go into his 1.2 110 bhp. He's also bought a custom exhaust, and additional 'pipes' and plans getting it re-mapped to 180 bhp.

I've suggested he get's a specialist to fit the turbo... I doubt he will listen - it's a straight swap.


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## Scottish Scrutineer (14 May 2021)

Illaveago said:


> I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas on a good OBD2 reader. We have decided not to be fleeced by the main dealer To have an oil change when it doesn't need it . Most of the service is what a garage does for an MOT so no point in paying twice .
> I have a Jaguar XE 20t with the Ford Ecoboost engine .
> Thanks .


I'd suggest getting one that is a Bluetooth link to the phone, rather than a WiFi link. They seem to be more stable. Key is making sure the App does what is needed and is compatible with the phone and the car.

TBH if you can do an oil change yourself, it is well worthwhile for a cost saving, but not doing oil changes can be false economy. With modern emissions controls oils take a hammering, especially with diesels, and the extended service intervals have thrown up all sorts of issues which could have been avoided by simple oil changes, particularly where cars do lots of short runs.


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## Phaeton (14 May 2021)

fossyant said:


> I've suggested he get's a specialist to fit the turbo... I doubt he will listen - it's a straight swap.


TBH I'd be happy doing the mechanical swaps, but I'd be taking it to a professional to be doing the mapping

Just to add I'll be Supercharging my kitcar once registered, I know which tuner/rolling road specialist I'm going to, I'll be buying the ECU he recommends.


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## fossyant (14 May 2021)

Phaeton said:


> TBH I'd be happy doing the mechanical swaps, but I'd be taking it to a professional to be doing the mapping
> 
> Just to add I'll be Supercharging my kitcar once registered, I know which tuner/rolling road specialist I'm going to, I'll be buying the ECU he recommends.



He plans on the mechanical swap, but will be going for proper tuning as it's mapped out to the individual car isn't it - not every one is quite the same. Been quoted £500 for a map, which is about right. I'm hoping he goes and does it at a friend's lock up as his friend knows a lot more about cars and runs a few including an old MX5 he uses for drifting.


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## Phaeton (14 May 2021)

fossyant said:


> I'm hoping he goes and does it at a friend's lock up


Personally I'd pay the £500, his 'friend' can easily do that amount of damage getting it wrong, if they don't have access to a rolling road then the only option is to street test it, 'friend' sat in passenger seat with laptop whilst your son breaks all the speeding laws screaming around the place, to get all speeds in all gears


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## fossyant (14 May 2021)

Phaeton said:


> Personally I'd pay the £500, his 'friend' can easily do that amount of damage getting it wrong, if they don't have access to a rolling road then the only option is to street test it, 'friend' sat in passenger seat with laptop whilst your son breaks all the speeding laws screaming around the place, to get all speeds in all gears



sorry wasn't clear - doing the mechanicals with a friend, then getting it professionally mapped.


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## Drago (15 May 2021)

Get the brand specific iCarsoft V2.0. Not cheap, but does ABS, stability systems, airbags, accessory electrics, pretty much everything. Bought one when I inherited the XC90 and its paid for itself several times over.


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## fossyant (23 May 2021)

Son has been busy making a replacement exhaust system. Not quite finished as he's expecting a sport cat, and is literally changing the back box now as the previous one did nothing and was too loud. He's welded it all himself, not super neat, but gas tight. Not bad for a beginner.

He also fitted a turbo from a 1.4 TFSI engine, which when tuned should give nearer 180 bhp, from 110.

He's done all this whilst we were away this weekend, and on his own. Just wish he would apply this enthusiasm to tidying his room.

Boys....


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## fossyant (23 May 2021)

Drago said:


> Get the brand specific iCarsoft V2.0. Not cheap, but does ABS, stability systems, airbags, accessory electrics, pretty much everything. Bought one when I inherited the XC90 and its paid for itself several times over.



Hes got some VAG specific stuff, but it wouldn't recode the immobiliser and linked components. Got that sorted at a specialist.


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## tyred (26 May 2021)

My 205's clutch release bearing has developed a death squeal and the clutch isn't clearing properly. 

Typically it would happen when I'm in the process of moving house and actually need a car to move things so unusually for a tightwad like me, I've farmed the job out to a mechanic friend as I don't really have time.

Now in possession of my Mum's Kia Soul.


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## Illaveago (27 May 2021)

Well! I've just come back from an MOT on our Venga . It failed on excessive play in the nsf track rod end. They quoted a price to do the job but I said that I would do it myself . They asked if I had heard any knocking noise whilst driving . I hadn't but then I haven't driven it much .
I got my wife to put it on a hard lock whilst I got down and watched the joint whilst she rocked the steering . I couldn't see or feel any play ! We tried it on the other side with exactly the same outcome ! I thought perhaps they meant bottom ball joint but that wouldn't require tracking . I would have thought that any play would have shown up , also I would have thought that the tyre would also show signs of uneven wear .
I have taken my cars there for years and have trusted them but I'm a bit suspicious!


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## Drago (27 May 2021)

Perhaps get them to show you?

I once had a car fail on a headlamp with an incorrect beam aim, butnthey told me they jad adjusted it and it would only be a tenner. Funny that, seeing as the adjuster was broken off and Id been using washers as shims to physically alter the aim. Lots of "oh's" and "ah's".


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## gbb (27 May 2021)

Illaveago said:


> Well! I've just come back from an MOT on our Venga . It failed on excessive play in the nsf track rod end. They quoted a price to do the job but I said that I would do it myself . They asked if I had heard any knocking noise whilst driving . I hadn't but then I haven't driven it much .
> I got my wife to put it on a hard lock whilst I got down and watched the joint whilst she rocked the steering . I couldn't see or feel any play ! We tried it on the other side with exactly the same outcome ! I thought perhaps they meant bottom ball joint but that wouldn't require tracking . I would have thought that any play would have shown up , also I would have thought that the tyre would also show signs of uneven wear .
> I have taken my cars there for years and have trusted them but I'm a bit suspicious!


Knocking can often be caused by a vertical strut (cant remember the terminology). It's a rigid bar, 300mm ish long with a ball joint either end, very common item to go apparently.


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## neil_merseyside (27 May 2021)

Illaveago said:


> Well! I've just come back from an MOT on our Venga . It failed on excessive play in the nsf track rod end. They quoted a price to do the job but I said that I would do it myself . They asked if I had heard any knocking noise whilst driving . I hadn't but then I haven't driven it much .
> I got my wife to put it on a hard lock whilst I got down and watched the joint whilst she rocked the steering . I couldn't see or feel any play ! We tried it on the other side with exactly the same outcome ! I thought perhaps they meant bottom ball joint but that wouldn't require tracking . I would have thought that any play would have shown up , also I would have thought that the tyre would also show signs of uneven wear .
> I have taken my cars there for years and have trusted them but I'm a bit suspicious!


You need to hold the joint while someone swings the wheel and you'll feel it give a bit compared to the good side, well if it is fubar you will.


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## Phaeton (27 May 2021)

@gbb Droplinks, they knock more than track rods.

@Illaveago Does it say the track rod is worn, or something along the lines of dust cover deteriorated allowing ingress of dirt etc.


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## fossyant (27 May 2021)

Worn track rod dust covers are a fail.


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## Illaveago (27 May 2021)

It has got play ! I was wrong !
I jacked it up and took the wheel off and got my wife to rock it again . I could see movement in the ball joint . Once I had removed it from the hub carrier I could move the ball joint up and down . It must have taken up the slack on the deck .


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## cosmicbike (27 May 2021)

gbb said:


> Knocking can often be caused by a vertical strut (cant remember the terminology). It's a rigid bar, 300mm ish long with a ball joint either end, very common item to go apparently.



That would be a drop link


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## Scottish Scrutineer (28 May 2021)

Illaveago said:


> It has got play ! I was wrong !
> I jacked it up and took the wheel off and got my wife to rock it again . I could see movement in the ball joint . Once I had removed it from the hub carrier I could move the ball joint up and down . It must have taken up the slack on the deck .


often at extremes of lock, the articulation on the ball moves it out of the wear area. You need to check it with the wheels pretty much straight. Sometimes you can ease the weight off the tyre with a jack and feel the play by rocking the wheel holding it at 3-9 o'clock position


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## rockyroller (28 May 2021)

while it was raining the other night, I ran out with a bucket of suds & a big sponge. sometimes the rain just isn't good enough to remove the thick pollen we've had lately


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## gbb (28 May 2021)

Service is overdue by a thousand miles perhaps, been cancelling the dash warning daily. Suddenly, tonight after work...sod it, down to Halfords, oil and filter, home, change oil...and finally properly reset the service due light.

No air filter on stock, will pick one up some other time....somewhere.


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## Badger_Boom (29 May 2021)

Looks like I _won’t_ be doing my front discs and pads this weekend. The parts arrived yesterday, but my new jack didn’t despite allegedly being on next working day delivery (I doubt today will count).


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## Badger_Boom (7 Jun 2021)

Badger_Boom said:


> Looks like I _won’t_ be doing my front discs and pads this weekend. The parts arrived yesterday, but my new jack didn’t despite allegedly being on next working day delivery (I doubt today will count).


Finally got the car, parts and jack in the same place on Saturday. It took a bit longer than I hoped because when I did the first disc I stuck to my Yorkshire roots and refused to go and buy a longer breaker bar to undo the carrier bolts. A big hammer and the one I had got them off... eventually. Lesson learned, I picked one up for the other side and did it in half the time.

Thankfully it no longer feels like I'm sitting inside a cement mixer when I apply the anchors.


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## gbb (7 Jun 2021)

Auxillary /alternator/ aircon belt has been squealing lately, it's done 70k.
Ebay, new belt sourced, £8, spent an hour tonight under the car, fitted.
You realise sometimes, you have to do more sometimes to save time, it's easy to take the easiest route...but make it hard for yourself. Limited space, no swinging room for a ratchet to release the tensioner, struggled and sweated, then decided...take the arch liner out. All of a sudden you have sight and space. Should have done that in the first place  
Probably a very easy job on a lift...not so easy under the car but I usually enjoy a little tinker. Not often you get chance nowadays.


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## fossyant (7 Jun 2021)

Son has finished modding his car at the moment. His Fabia 1.2 TSi 110bhp and 175nm torque is now 178bhp & 270nm torque after a rolling road tune which was done today (the car has been there all day).

Turbo was changed by him to a model from a 1.4, induction kit, new performance coil packs, 2.5" exhaust which he's welded, which includes a sport cat to keep it legal.

The garage said they could have got more without the cat, and bangs and pops. Thank god they didn't.

It's lowered with adjustable coil overs. Let's say I don't go in it, it's spine jarring. Young persons car with spongy discs, not someone who is missing half a vertebra and a couple of squished discs.

It "WAS" a nice car when he got it.


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## neil_merseyside (7 Jun 2021)

fossyant said:


> Son has finished modding his car at the moment. His Fabia 1.2 TSi 110bhp and 175nm torque is now 178bhp & 270nm torque after a rolling road tune which was done today (the car has been there all day).
> 
> Turbo was changed by him to a model from a 1.4, induction kit, new 2.5" exhaust which he's welded, which includes a sport cat to keep it legal.
> 
> The garage said they could have got more without the cat, and bangs and pops. Thank god they didn't.


Blimey what's that done to his insurance?


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## fossyant (7 Jun 2021)

neil_merseyside said:


> Blimey what's that done to his insurance?



He's with a modified car policy that covers it. Not cheap.


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## Drago (8 Jun 2021)

I remember perhaps 25 years ago, my neighbours lad was heaviliy intomhis car modifying. He fitted a turbo kit intended for a Saxo VTS onto his Pug 106 GTi (essentually the same car under the skin, so a stright fit).

He contacted his broker, but becuase no insurer lister a turbo conversion for a 106 as a recognised mod there was no increase in premium, only rhe token tenner or whatever for updating the policy with a note. I don't know what happened come renewal time though.

Personally, I could never understand why he didn't just but a faster car in the first place, which would have been easier and cheaper, but some like the journey as much as the destination i guess.


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## fossyant (8 Jun 2021)

Drago said:


> I remember perhaps 25 years ago, my neighbours lad was heaviliy intomhis car modifying. He fitted a turbo kit intended for a Saxo VTS onto his Pug 106 GTi (essentually the same car under the skin, so a stright fit).
> 
> He contacted his broker, but becuase no insurer lister a turbo conversion for a 106 as a recognised mod there was no increase in premium, only rhe token tenner or whatever for updating the policy with a note. I don't know what happened come renewal time though.
> 
> Personally, I could never understand why he didn't just but a faster car in the first place, which would have been easier and cheaper, but some like the journey as much as the destination i guess.



I was too into riding and racing pedal bikes to be that bothered about cars - I looked after my cars as I used them for the biking/work - I did have a car from 17, but it soon had roof racks etc. I just shake my head now as this modding does break stuff, and he's been off the road a fair bit. It's also massively uncomfortable. He was a bit shocked how well MrsF's SUV went over the speed bumps and pot holes without spinal injury.


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## neil_merseyside (8 Jun 2021)

Drago said:


> a Saxo VTS


Known around here as a Paxo, because if you crashed one you are well and truly stuffed.


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## gbb (13 Jun 2021)

DILs car Chevrolet Kalos, she wondered if someone had tried to break into it, the door lock has disappeared into the handle..punched in maybe ? Seemed odd.
Door liner off after lunch, quickly realised the handle is held on with two 6mm screws...one of those secures the lock itself.. had fallen off, come loose over a period I suppose.
Fiddly fiddly, all back and working, found the screw in the bottom of the door.


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## fossyant (13 Jun 2021)

Update, son's car broke same evening after tuning. Seen the state of the turbo internals. Dead engine basically as metal fragment's everywhere. Arrived home at 2am on the back of an AA low loader - I think he can pay for the membership as I won't be getting any no claims discounts, despite my car being very elderly (19 years). I've gone to the caravan before I strangle him (bart simpson style). 'New' engine has apparently been collected but it's a 1.4 TFSI - 150 BHP without mods... FFS.


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## gbb (15 Jun 2021)

I changed my auxillary belt up post....I still have an occasional, sometimes persistent squeal 
Things to consider....
It's not there all the time, it seems to be in the belt/ pulley area.
There is no power steering pump, electric rack.
I've sprayed some WD40 in the tension pulley bearing area, doesn't seem to make any difference.
I've sprayed the belt, doesn't make any difference if its squealing.
When I stop the engine, I usually get a quick 'chirp'

Strangely, if I turn the steering wheel slightly...the squeal stops, but comes back as I straighten up. But I have an electric rack, no power steering pump running off the belt.

Air con...seems to work ok, compressor clutch therefore assumed to be ok.

Brakes ? Mine does have audible warning plates on the pads and I know the pads are getting low...but the squeal is sometimes there when I'm static. Brake backplates discounted for the same reason.

Gearbox is a known issue on some Astras, mine doesn't have the notorious one and my shifting is smooth as ever.

Water pump ? Why would it stop squealing when I turn the wheel if it were the pump ?

Belt is coming off again in the next few days, will probably clean up the pulleys thoroughly in case they've become glazed or dirty. Cant see why alignment of pulleys should be a problem, nothings been moved or changed (other than the belts of course)

Somewhat annoying eh ?

I do need to consider it might be the tensioner losing tension with age, rather than the tensioner bearings.


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## Badger_Boom (16 Jun 2021)

gbb said:


> I changed my auxillary belt up post....I still have an occasional, sometimes persistent squeal
> Things to consider....
> It's not there all the time, it seems to be in the belt/ pulley area.
> There is no power steering pump, electric rack.
> ...


It sounds like the bearing in the tensioner pulley might be on the way out.


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## bikingdad90 (16 Jun 2021)

@gbb binding brake pads from electric handbrake or possible play in the bushes on the wheels?


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## gbb (16 Jun 2021)

Badger_Boom said:


> It sounds like the bearing in the tensioner pulley might be on the way out.



I did spin the pulley when I changed the belt, no detectable play.


bikingdad90 said:


> @gbb binding brake pads from electric handbrake or possible play in the bushes on the wheels?


Pads are always worth considering but sometimes I have the squeal when the car is stood still.

Day off today waiting for a delivery, itchy feet, let's get at it.
Belt back off, inspect...hmmm, some slight damage to one of the ribs, I did notice similar on the original.
Check water pump, all feels good.
Check alternator, ditto.
Aircon compressor, ditto.
All pulleys wire brushed on the running surfaces, cleaned with solvent cleaner, no play, nothing.
Spinning the last pulley I was cleaning...what's that ?, a tiny stone or something wedged in one of the vees. Picked out, that would probably have caused the slight belt damage.

There was some tarnish or surface wear to the tension pulley, gave that a thoroughly good clean, much better.
Quick drive, no squeal...too early yet though but nice to find something at least and also to know that all the other ancillaries feel fine.

Off to shops, once the engines warm....squeal 
Ah well...I will revisit it


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## MrGrumpy (16 Jun 2021)

New discs and pads for the Disco to be fitted. May attempt today........ /Checks for torx impact bit.... yep got it. Because you just no that`s going to be your Nemesis !


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## cosmicbike (16 Jun 2021)

The trusty brick refused to spray water on the windscreen on the way home from work this morning. To be honest I've kept the washer pump limping along since Winter, so new one on order to spoil the old girl!


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## keithmac (16 Jun 2021)

Phaeton said:


> For those who may have some pearls of wisdom.
> 
> Things I have done yesterday & today.
> 
> ...



Mix 20% Methanol in the tank for the retest..


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## Drago (16 Jun 2021)

Filled up today. Economy on the XC90 always improves in the warm weather, but im up pretty much 5mpg. I can only presume that the swirl flap repair I bodged skillfully deployed is working well.


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## gbb (17 Jun 2021)

Failed at replacing front brake pads this afternoon....why ?
Poor planning ( failed to make sure I had everything I thought I had). Went to push the caliper piston back in....bugger where are my big water pump pliers . Bugger, they're at work (I'd taken them in a few weeks ago) Sods llaw, been in my home toolbox for an eternity.
Ah well...put everything back together.

Am I reaching the cusp of the point where a car starts to cost you money ? 70k miles and 6 years old, barely cost me a bean since i brought it at 8k miles. Got a squeal I havnt fixed yet, brakes ready for doing, generally it could do with a deep service, fluids replaced, that kind of thing, it's ok but you know that things are going to start wearing / failing as the miles rack up.


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## gbb (17 Jun 2021)

Drago said:


> Filled up today. Economy on the XC90 always improves in the warm weather, but im up pretty much 5mpg. I can only presume that the swirl flap repair I bodged skillfully deployed is working well.


Pretty much the case for me. Steady driver in a 1.6 petrol Astra, struggle to make 45mpg in the winter, now averaging 50 /51 mpg


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## Badger_Boom (17 Jun 2021)

gbb said:


> Failed at replacing front brake pads this afternoon....why ?
> Poor planning ( failed to make sure I had everything I thought I had). Went to push the caliper piston back in....bugger where are my big water pump pliers . Bugger, they're at work (I'd taken them in a few weeks ago) Sods llaw, been in my home toolbox for an eternity.
> Ah well...put everything back together.



I had a similar experience doing mine the other week. I did the first side and discovered that the ratchet clamp I had with me wasn’t up to the job. The quickest solution was a 1.5 mile round trip on foot to Screwfix for their cheapest 6in G-clamp.


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## gbb (18 Jun 2021)

Badger_Boom said:


> I had a similar experience doing mine the other week. I did the first side and discovered that the ratchet clamp I had with me wasn’t up to the job. The quickest solution was a 1.5 mile round trip on foot to Screwfix for their cheapest 6in G-clamp.


Yep, G clamps occured to me, scoured my home toolkit, to realise...they're at work too


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## Drago (18 Jun 2021)

gbb said:


> Am I reaching the cusp of the point where a car starts to cost you money ? 70k miles and 6 years old, barely cost me a bean since i brought it at 8k miles. Got a squeal I havnt fixed yet, brakes ready for doing, generally it could do with a deep service, fluids replaced, that kind of thing, it's ok but you know that things are going to start wearing / failing as the miles rack up.


During low moments I think the same way, but I then remind myself that the cost of repairs over the last year have still not added up to half of a single months loan repayment on a new one. Probably not even a quarter.

So while it can be a ballache with an older vehicle it is rarely financually advantageous to start anew.


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## MrGrumpy (18 Jun 2021)

MrGrumpy said:


> New discs and pads for the Disco to be fitted. May attempt today........ /Checks for torx impact bit.... yep got it. Because you just no that`s going to be your Nemesis !


Just to add to this. I did these last night but once again after jacking and preparing , thinking Ive got everything I need. I find that I need a 21mm bi hex socket for the carrier and breaker bar. As these buggers are torqued to 275Nm !!! Oh and I couldn’t find the brake caliper rewind kit either !! So out with the G clamp and the old pad to wind the pistons back in. Ive getting too old for crawling about the ground …..


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## fossyant (18 Jun 2021)

Drago said:


> During low moments I think the same way, but I then remind myself that the cost of repairs over the last year have still not added up to half of a single months loan repayment on a new one. Probably not even a quarter.
> 
> So while it can be a ballache with an older vehicle it is rarely financually advantageous to start anew.



What's this about 'repairs' ? 19 year old Nissan and the only things it's had in the last two years is oil change, new tyres and an exhaust - the exhaust only lasted 19 years !  Outrageous


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## fossyant (18 Jun 2021)

That said, my son keeps breaking his car. He's moved over most of the various pipes from his 'knackered' engine to the replacement. He's just had delivered an engine hoist - he had planned to get the car to his friend's workshop, but that's in Buxton, 20 miles away, and the car has no 'front' so can't exactly be towed onto a trailer. I suggested the cost of a hoist would be cheaper than transport and travel to Buxton. Hoist and engine 'mount' was less than £200.


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## fossyant (24 Jun 2021)

Son's car currently looks like this. New engine runs but sounds like its on 3 cylinders so plugs on order as the new ones on his old engine are cooked, along with the turbo and the engine. 

God knows what tune the garage did. He's struggling to find another tuner that can or will remove the map, so it might be another ECU then get the immobiliser recoded.

What a mess. Oh and my garage is too. He's a very messy worker. I've just dumped all the sockets and tools that were covering my garage floor in a bucket for him to sort.


----------



## Drago (24 Jun 2021)

Fitted a new kayak carrier to my roof bars this morning.


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## fossyant (24 Jun 2021)

The old engine had a slight seep from the main seal (engine to gear box), and on opening up you could see traces of oil - wasn't a bad leak, but would have needed doing. The 'new' engine is spotless and whilst at it he's fitted a new clutch (might as well as it's in bits). 

The original 'tuner' doesn't want to know !


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## Badger_Boom (25 Jun 2021)

fossyant said:


> The original 'tuner' doesn't want to know !


Sounds like he’d be wise to keep it that way.


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## gbb (26 Jun 2021)

Nice late afternoon, finally replaced the front pads, Brembo pads from GSF parts were only a few quid more than Eichers, no brainer.
Minimal wear on the discs, maybe 1 to 1.5mm each side....edited to add, well, i thought minimal but apparently, replace when at 1mm . Next job then.


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## gbb (30 Jun 2021)

Late last year we brought our DIL a little Chevrolet Kalos, 2006 with around only 30k miles on it. It's done well, gave no problems apart from a door lock that imploded, diy fix, ditto a stuck bonnet catch...and one headlight had faded terribly. Did the old toothpaste polish on it a week or so ago, came up much better though not perfect.
Passed its Mot today, no advisories. Turning out to be a good buy for £600.


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## fossyant (4 Aug 2021)

Son's car is all back together - finished it himself a couple of weeks ago. Complete engine swap, new clutch and all new fluids. Re-mapped by someone who knows what they were doing and running at 170 bhp from a 1.4 (not a 1.2 any more).

We also seem to be the new 'car repair' centre. Had 5 Fabia's outside on Monday - each doing some job or another. One girl's car had bits missing from her bumper after hitting an animal at night on the motorway. They managed to repair and glue the bumper back together. Today has been another friend turning up to change his brake pads on our drive, and tomorrow, is 'yet another' Fabia coming for lowering. 

Fortunately they are all a nice bunch of 'kids', just car crazy. They don't drink much or do drugs which is something - spend their wages on their cars. I gave five of them on monday left over stir fry I'd cooked. Tonight was two home made pizzas. Better stop that or they will always be round.


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## fossyant (5 Aug 2021)

There is another Fabia on the drive, a bright blue one. The girl also has bright blue hair to match. Currently fitting lowered springs to the car.

They are all going to a meet at Santa Pod - it's Friday to Sunday camping. About 10 friends. So they are all busy finishing jobs on their cars and washing them.


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## MrGrumpy (5 Aug 2021)

How’s their car insurance working out !! As a son of 20yr old who now wants to tart up his Mini his current insurer AXA won’t let him do anything ! 
he plan to change provider on renewal !


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## tyred (5 Aug 2021)

Must admit that I don't get the fascination with Fabias. They are serviceable and have their good points but lack any kind of personality or features of interest. A Nissan Sunny for the 21st century.


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## fossyant (5 Aug 2021)

tyred said:


> Must admit that I don't get the fascination with Fabias. They are serviceable and have their good points but lack any kind of personality or features of interest. A Nissan Sunny for the 21st century.



They are good cars, and reasonable to insure.


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## fossyant (5 Aug 2021)

MrGrumpy said:


> How’s their car insurance working out !! As a son of 20yr old who now wants to tart up his Mini his current insurer AXA won’t let him do anything !
> he plan to change provider on renewal !



Expensive, but they all seem to use a specialist like Adrian Flux to cover the modifications.


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## MrGrumpy (5 Aug 2021)

fossyant said:


> Expensive, but they all seem to use a specialist like Adrian Flux to cover the modifications.


Funny that was the name my son mentioned , will probably go to them. His current insurer wouldn’t even let him change the car mats!


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## gbb (6 Aug 2021)

My former colleague was told 15 years ago he'd need a specialist insurer, just because he put aftermarket wheels on. Anything other than standard, regular insurers just dont like.


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## fossyant (6 Aug 2021)

gbb said:


> My former colleague was told 15 years ago he'd need a specialist insurer, just because he put aftermarket wheels on. Anything other than standard, regular insurers just dont like.



They don't. Mine has a 'OEM' boot lip spoiler - it's the only one I've ever seen with one - I fitted it after I bought the car. That's all I did, and the car's still with me 19 years later.

You've got to declare stuff like wheels, suspension, air intake changes, so going with a 'modified car' provider just covers the lot - they tell you. My son's now got a bigger engine in his (after it exploded).

They spend silly amounts on their cars, for no real improvement, but then again, speaking to a few of my son's mates , they aren't out boozing, taking drugs. They just go for a 'drive' and having seen their instagram pages, they tend to drive to places with great views at sunset etc, and take pictures of their cars.


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## tyred (6 Aug 2021)

Despite what society and the sort of people who write to the local rag or call radio phone in programmes to be hysterical, the young people in the cars covered in body kits etc are rarely the people who are dangerous. 

They have invested a lot of time and money in messing up their cars so the last thing they want to do is prang it. Most are just driving around the neighbourhood. Annoying possibly but not really dangerous.


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## fossyant (6 Aug 2021)

tyred said:


> Despite what society and the sort of people who write to the local rag or call radio phone in programmes to be hysterical, the young people in the cars covered in body kits etc are rarely the people who are dangerous.
> 
> They have invested a lot of time and money in messing up their cars so the last thing they want to do is prang it. Most are just driving around the neighbourhood. Annoying possibly but not really dangerous.



My son was saying he get's people that get angry with him going over some of the pot holed roads when he's delivering pizza, as he's going slowly and carefully. Lots of un-adopted roads near us. Holds up all the 4x4's. 

I get the same though when I'm on my MTB, these 4x4's are far slower on un-adopted roads/farm tracks.


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## MrGrumpy (6 Aug 2021)

fossyant said:


> They spend silly amounts on their cars, for no real improvement, but then again, speaking to a few of my son's mates , they aren't out boozing, taking drugs. They just go for a 'drive' and having seen their instagram pages, they tend to drive to places with great views at sunset etc, and take pictures of their cars.


Must admit back when I was 17-18 I was hanging about with my pal down the harbour. Where we would all meet in cars. We weren’t getting up to much but plod always came for a visit. Just so they knew where we were.
Laughing just now as my mate had a Austin Maestro and I used to sit beside him with L plates on ! We were both only 17


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## cosmicbike (7 Aug 2021)

fossyant said:


> They spend silly amounts on their cars, for no real improvement, but then again, speaking to a few of my son's mates , they aren't out boozing, taking drugs. They just go for a 'drive' and having seen their instagram pages, they tend to drive to places with great views at sunset etc, and take pictures of their cars.



We used to do the same thing, only it was MkI/II Escorts, Renault 5 GT and so forth. Without Instagram.


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## fossyant (7 Aug 2021)

cosmicbike said:


> We used to do the same thing, only it was MkI/II Escorts, Renault 5 GT and so forth. Without Instagram.



I had two mates with bonkers Renault5's. One was bright blue, wide bodykit and fully modded. The other had the engine tuned and it spat flames. Lethal though as they were paper thin.


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## gbb (7 Aug 2021)

tyred said:


> Despite what society and the sort of people who write to the local rag or call radio phone in programmes to be hysterical, the young people in the cars covered in body kits etc are rarely the people who are dangerous.
> 
> They have invested a lot of time and money in messing up their cars so the last thing they want to do is prang it. Most are just driving around the neighbourhood. Annoying possibly but not really dangerous.


It the minority who spoil it for everyone, their own enthusiast pals get tarnished reputations because of it (I suspect)
We have a huge problem developed here with drifters and car meets. They use a part of an industrial area to drift, engines roaring and tyres howling until sometimes, 2, 3, 4am. Every week give or take for 10 years (there was a year when it didnt happen at all tbf but even covid lockdown didnt stop them)
10 freaking years of howling tyres and roaring engines every weekend that's now spilling out into local roads. Police simply aren't interested, ditto the council....and in the meantime, hundreds of local residents have to grit their teeth and bear it. 

It was never dealt with and now it's completely out of control.


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## gbb (7 Aug 2021)

Diy inspection ?
DIL needs a slightly bigger car, she asked me to look over a Vauxhall Corsa, 2006, 1.4,.
I didnt get far, outwardly it looked ok but....
Dipstick out, plenty of oil....does it smell of petrol ?... slight  moment.
Oil filler cap off...looks ok.
Coolant tank...looked inside, a fair film of oil on the surface, dug my finger in, sludge, oily sludge.

I glanced at my DIL....
I said to the seller, sorry, were gonna leave it there, not comfortable with that mate, thanks for your time but....
He wasnt happy...i know the head gasket is ok he said.
It may be, equally it might be the timing chain housing gasket, waterway passes through it, seals leaks, oil in the coolant apparently according to our SIL garage mechanic as i explained it to him later.


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## Badger_Boom (8 Aug 2021)

gbb said:


> It was never dealt with and now it's completely out of control.


Has the industrial area considered a gate?


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## Richard A Thackeray (9 Aug 2021)

*Wiring Question*

I know it's viable, as the current draw is minimal, using LEDs....

Has anyone added side-repeater indicators to their caravan (or indeed, a trailer)?
Mine has 'marker-lights' on the side (to either side of the axle)







I was thinking of this in two ways
*1. *Replace the present marker-lights, with red/white items (BUT.... I think they incorporate reflectors?)
*2. *Add a separate 'repeater' in a suitable position, something like these; https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-55-lighting/c-141-indicator-and-rear-lamps?product_id=1318

It'd just really be a case of making sure that all connections are water-tight, & the wiring is clipped/tie-wrapped safely out of the way


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## Drago (23 Aug 2021)

Full service on my XC90 today. The works, including coolant and brake fluid.

The diesel filter can be a bit of a swine on these, but mine came undone first try.

Conversely, the torx screws holding the airbox lid down were a bugger and I damaged 2 undoing them. Ive ordered a new set of 5 for £3.69 and will grease the threads before fitting them.

Drove Mrs D to the shops and now its cooled off it only needed a slight top up of coolant to get to the max level.

145,172 miles and drives faultlessly. Long may it continue, because when it dies I won't be buying another. When it gets to 150k it'll qualify for the Volvo bronze high mileage badge.

And Thursday next week its the date with the M.O.T. tester.


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## shep (28 Aug 2021)

Son's recently bought a Mini Cooper S, not my cup of tea but there you go. 

"Bought some Union Jack rear lights Dad, can you help me fit 'em".

No worries I thought, went in easy enough just plug and play. 

Turned them on and they flicker on start up, warning lights on dashboard and half the 'flag' doesn't work!


2 days later, a plug in Bluetooth module, a £30 Bimmercode App and hours of YouTube videos to find out which codes needed changing they're all working fine. 

Total cost £400!


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## MrGrumpy (28 Aug 2021)

shep said:


> Son's recently bought a Mini Cooper S, not my cup of tea but there you go.
> 
> "Bought some Union Jack rear lights Dad, can you help me fit 'em".
> 
> ...


Yes nuts isn’t it, stuff needs coded etc even frickin batteries sometimes !!


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## shep (28 Aug 2021)

MrGrumpy said:


> Yes nuts isn’t it, stuff needs coded etc even frickin batteries sometimes !!


No dipstick either, car needs to be warmed up, running and sat on flat ground, you then go through the 'menu ' on the dash and select oil level and it then runs a diagnostic check and tells you the result. 

Hope nothing ever goes tits up with it!


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## Drago (28 Aug 2021)

I dont think Mrs D's new car has a dipstick either. I'll know when it arrives on the 2nd.


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## Drago (28 Aug 2021)

My car cleaned and bulbs tested ready for the MOT. It's going to the same place as it did last year, and in 2020 the tester remarked that he could not believe the condition of the car for its mileage.

Was feeling energetic and the sun peeped out, so also did the plastics with Vista, which should keep them looking like new until the spring.

Then tested all lights, how, washers, degreased the screen and checked the wipers, reset the tyre pressures and had my tread depth gauge on them. It ain't going to fail.

Mrs D's car is gopping, but we're saying adios to it on Thursday 2nd when her new Polestar 2 arrives so I have little inclination to do anything about it.


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## Bonefish Blues (28 Aug 2021)

Drago said:


> My car cleaned and bulbs tested ready for the MOT. It's going to the same place as it did last year, and in 2020 the tester remarked that he could not believe the condition of the car for its mileage.
> 
> Was feeling energetic and the sun peeped out, so also *did the plastics with Vista*, which should keep them looking like new until the spring.
> 
> ...


Accy, the chicken one's best, I find.


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## Drago (28 Aug 2021)

Im a chow mein man myself.

Last week I drove past the factory where they were invented and made. I felt that I was in the presence of gods. A truly humbling experience.


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## fossyant (28 Aug 2021)

Drago said:


> I dont think Mrs D's new car has a dipstick either. I'll know when it arrives on the 2nd.



Only you as the dipstick


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## fossyant (28 Aug 2021)

Son's car developed a slight petrol leak (petrol smell) Apparently the exhaust heat sheild has got hot, but was touching the tank and melted a bit of the plastic petrol tank (yikes). He drained the tank then has repaired it and moved the heat shield further away. I'll check when back from holiday and suggest some additional insulation.

I told him not to park it near the house until he's sure its not leaking.


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## Drago (28 Aug 2021)

fossyant said:


> Son's car developed a slight petrol leak (petrol smell) Apparently the exhaust heat sheild has got hot, but was touching the tank and melted a bit of the plastic petrol tank (yikes). He drained the tank then has repaired it and moved the heat shield further away. I'll check when back from holiday and suggest some additional insulation.
> 
> I told him not to park it near the house until he's sure its not leaking.





View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RLG1ys2CGcI


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## Bonefish Blues (28 Aug 2021)

Drago said:


> Im a chow mein man myself.
> 
> Last week I drove past the factory where they were invented and made. I felt that I was in the presence of gods. A truly humbling experience.


It's remarkable when you look back at some of the then exotic foods we craved as kids, isn't it?

Mine won't touch anything that hasn't taken me a week to make!


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## fossyant (28 Aug 2021)

Drago said:


> View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RLG1ys2CGcI




Doesn't bear thinking about as he's just back from doing the NC500 with loads of driving, hence the heat.

I'll check it when home. Must have been a tiny hole, but my word, could have got bad.


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## tyred (2 Sep 2021)

I cleaned the inside of my car's cigarette lighter in an effort to remove corrosion so hopefully my mobile phone charger will work more reliably. 

I am tempted to try to fit another lighter socket or some sort of power point somewhere else in the car as Peugeot put the lighter socket in a rather awkward and charger unfriendly place deep inside the ashtray but I guess charging smart phones and other devices wasn't high on the list of designer's priorities back in the 1980s...


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## JoeyB (20 Sep 2021)

Bought a second hand oil sump for my 2012 Mini Countryman SD as I suspect it has a hairline fracture (or 4) and is leaking. The replacement sumps whilst OK on the outside seems to have a spiders web of cracks on the inside...I'm guessing they haven't gone all the way through as nothing is visible externally so I've ordered some JB Weld and some rotary burr attachments and will tidy up the replacement ready for fitting at the weekend.

Joy.


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## CXRAndy (21 Sep 2021)

I did a quick service on lads car.

Dropped oil and filter, air filter, new full synthetic oil 5w30 filter new wiper blades. 

Took an hour, but I dropped a chubby a screwdriver, lost it in the sub frame, couldn't see it anywhere. 

I had to dig out borescope camera to locate bloody thing, that nearly doubled the afternoon project


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## MrGrumpy (21 Sep 2021)

Not my car but mate at work likes his Mercedes cars. He’s just bought a C Class 2010 AMG 6.2 V8 for his daily drive  . What a sound from the engine and rear end !! Pops and fires , sounds awesome  .


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## Richard A Thackeray (22 Sep 2021)

Nothing much recently, barring checking oils/washer bottles/expansion tanks & tyre-pressures on all 3 cars

Plus, fitting a 'breakaway cable' mount on my Kodiaq


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## JoeyB (22 Sep 2021)

MrGrumpy said:


> Not my car but mate at work likes his Mercedes cars. He’s just bought a C Class 2010 AMG 6.2 V8 for his daily drive  . What a sound from the engine and rear end !! Pops and fires , sounds awesome  .


Always fanced one of the older C63s... sound glorious


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## Richard A Thackeray (22 Sep 2021)

JoeyB said:


> Always fanced one of the older C63s... sound glorious


I still fancy one of these..

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/uni-mogs.255060/


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## MrGrumpy (22 Sep 2021)

Sti ke


JoeyB said:


> Always fanced one of the older C63s... sound glorious


non turbocharged and apparently revs to about 7000rpm 

got a nice sticker on the boot lid ! “ life’s to short to drive a hybrid “


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## JoeyB (22 Sep 2021)

MrGrumpy said:


> Sti ke
> 
> non turbocharged and apparently revs to about 7000rpm
> 
> got a nice sticker on the boot lid ! “ life’s to short to drive a hybrid “



Yes I prefer the N/A version. That sticker is on point haha


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## tyred (2 Oct 2021)

I had a growling front wheel bearing on the 205 so fitted a replacement this morning and all is quiet (or as quiet as a base model 205 is likely to be) on the test drive  

On the test drive, some prat came around a blind corner way too fast and way across the white line and almost put me in the hedge as I tried not to collide with him.


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## Drago (2 Oct 2021)

Mine hasn't moved in a week so I plugged in the charger.

The delivery man from Fortnums (in a Tesco uniform so as not to upset the working class neighbours) thought it was an electric car. I explained that it was not, and showed him how the mains lead plugs into the socket on the bumper and the charger inside the boot. He was dead impressed that the scandinavians had thought of thar, even though it was all my own work.

Irnonically, Mrs D's electric car was parked next to it but wasnt plugged in as shes only done 70 miles in the week.


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## fossyant (17 Jan 2022)

I've had a 'thud' on my rear suspension for some time - never been able to pin point it. Not Anti-roll bar links, nor anything catching, nor the suspension shocks as you can hit 'speed bumps' quite hard without any noise. The sound is more like something loose in the boot, and can be heard on uneven roads.

Had a poke about underneath, nothing loose, but the rear anti-roll bar rubber bushes looked 'old' and were slightly out of shape. Hmmm, hardened, I wonder. Checked on line, yup just £6 a pair (this idiot thought they came as singles so bought two). Before ordering, checked I could undo the four bolts for the brackets - yup the 18" breaker bar shifted them. Just collected the parts, and from getting the tools out, to putting away was just 20 minutes. Why didn't I have this brainwave before. 

Suspension is now quiet as a mouse, road tested on the worse road in the area - ex cobbled road, with tarmac thrown on top. Now to get booked in for it's MOT.


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## gbb (19 Jan 2022)

Not DIY but had my 2018 Mazda MOTd last night, easy pass, no drama, but....
The car before me was Fiat Panda, 2008, with just over 20k miles on it ?
As the MOTer climbed in mine he remarked....ooh, nice and clean In here, the Fiat was a bit rank inside.

Little did he know, 45 minutes earlier I'd been frantically trying to figure why the car stank of dog sheeeiiite .

Id brought some in (unwittingly) on my boot. Car mat was thrown in the boot, then thrown in the garden pending cleaning. That would have been embarrassing.


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## Adam4868 (19 Jan 2022)

Lad I work with had his car in for MOT today,had to jump it to start.Battery on its way out,filthy,two bald front tyres.Told me he's not serviced it in four years ! 
Failed on two bald tyres....Put a couple of part worn on and they gave him a pass lol.
I'd have sworn it would fail on more.


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## fossyant (19 Jan 2022)

Whizzed to Stoke and back today (Uni interview for daughter) and the car was whisper quiet over the crappy roads. Yay.


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## fossyant (19 Jan 2022)

Adam4868 said:


> Lad I work with had his car in for MOT today,had to jump it to start.Battery on its way out,filthy,two bald front tyres.Told me he's not serviced it in four years !
> Failed on two bald tyres....Put a couple of part worn on and they gave him a pass lol.
> I'd have sworn it would fail on more.


The wheel company my lad works at had to get a customer sign a disclaimer last week. He'd come in for some new wheels for his M4 BMW. They pointed out his car tyres had just 0.5mm of tread left and were illegal - you need new tyres. No, just fit my current ones he said - they had to get him to sign a disclaimer that they had already pointed out the tyres were illegal and he took all responsibility for them.


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## Adam4868 (19 Jan 2022)

fossyant said:


> The wheel company my lad works at had to get a customer sign a disclaimer last week. He'd come in for some new wheels for his M4 BMW. They pointed out his car tyres had just 0.5mm of tread left and were illegal - you need new tyres. No, just fit my current ones he said - they had to get him to sign a disclaimer that they had already pointed out the tyres were illegal and he took all responsibility for them.


The mad thing to me is he knew they were bald...almost slicks ! They've been checking cars over Xmas around here aswell ! What's the point of going for the mot knowing this 🙄


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## raleighnut (20 Jan 2022)

Adam4868 said:


> The mad thing to me is he knew they were bald...almost slicks ! They've been checking cars over Xmas around here aswell ! What's the point of going for the mot knowing this 🙄


Maybe he had plans of going to a car 'show' gathering and showing off with a big burnout before fitting new tyres.


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## Drago (20 Jan 2022)

We see this in Volvoland, people buy big, expensive cars and can't afford to run and maintain them properly.


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## gbb (20 Jan 2022)

Drago said:


> We see this in Volvoland, people buy big, expensive cars and can't afford to run and maintain them properly.


I remember a discussion about 'cyclops ' drivers....with one headlight out. Owner complained it was a Mercedes and a replacement light was a few hundred quid. Tough, he chose the blooming thing, expensive cars have expensive parts, surprise surprise.


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## figbat (20 Jan 2022)

Drago said:


> We see this in Volvoland, people buy big, expensive cars and can't afford to run and maintain them properly.


I once followed a newish BMW X5 in queuing traffic and I could see the canvas on both rear tyres. As it happens the queue of traffic comprised some people heading to the same office I was heading to to begin work, and this car went into the car park I was using. I didn't see where the driver went but I let Reception know the car's details and they contacted the driver. It turned out to be someone I knew in passing and they were a relatively senior, well-payed person and one who has spent their whole career in and around the automotive servicing business. He was grateful for the intervention and horrified that it had happened. One explanation I have seen for this kind of outcome is that cars with big wheels, sitting low on their suspension offer limited view of the tyre tread in day-to-day viewing - if you're not specifically checking and simply hoping to notice it in passing then you probably won't.


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## mikeIow (20 Jan 2022)

fossyant said:


> The wheel company my lad works at had to get a customer sign a disclaimer last week. He'd come in for some new wheels for his M4 BMW. They pointed out his car tyres had just 0.5mm of tread left and were illegal - you need new tyres. No, just fit my current ones he said - they had to get him to sign a disclaimer that they had already pointed out the tyres were illegal and he took all responsibility for them.


Now I hate the way Covid has turned much of the UK into a bunch of curtain twitchers, checking on neighbours to report for getting fresh air with 2 pals (unless you work at Number 10…)…..
….but frankly, any garage or tyre place taking the action of getting signed disclaimers for this kind of nonsense should be *obliged* to also send those disclaimers to the local Police. They can tell the customer that. 

That is a danger to all of us on the roads. Either the vehicle needs to be declared SORN, or it REQUIRES new tyres 🙄


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## fossyant (20 Jan 2022)

Garages aren't obliged. They refused to re-fit the tyres unless he signed a disclaimer stating he knew they were illegal.


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## MrGrumpy (20 Jan 2022)

gbb said:


> I remember a discussion about 'cyclops ' drivers....with one headlight out. Owner complained it was a Mercedes and a replacement light was a few hundred quid. Tough, he chose the blooming thing, expensive cars have expensive parts, surprise surprise.


Actually headlights on most of these new cars are scary ! LED units , I’ve heard of cars being written off due to the cost replacement of insignificant items versus car value !?


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## mikeIow (20 Jan 2022)

fossyant said:


> Garages aren't obliged. They refused to re-fit the tyres unless he signed a disclaimer stating he knew they were illegal.


Oh, I understand that…..I just think they *should* be obliged to not allow an illegal car back out on the road.
Some topics could be a little contentious, but tyres below the legal minimum is an obvious one to avoid 🤷‍♂️


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## figbat (20 Jan 2022)

I’d still think they may retain liability in terms of knowingly aiding and abetting.


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## fossyant (20 Jan 2022)

figbat said:


> I’d still think they may retain liability in terms of knowingly aiding and abetting.



Depends upon the business. Personally I'd refuse to fit them, but not everyone thinks like that - the Garage boss possibly doesn't care so long as it's been pointed out to the owner - and the wodge of cash in his bank for some fancy wheels.


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## CXRAndy (20 Jan 2022)

An owner has just been found guilty of death by dangerous driving due to letting his car be used when he knew the tyres were illegal. He wasn't driving at the time of crash, he was a passenger. This was in the UK 
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-beds-bucks-herts-59728543


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## fossyant (28 Feb 2022)

Just dropped Ms Fos at college. On the way back along the 'motorway' a van driver was driving like a 'silly van driver'. So I gave him a little 'toot' on the horn. Problem was, it was a 'little toot' - like those poor single tone car's are. Whatttt.

Popped the plastic cover off, and one of the horns cables has snapped. Off with the horn, spliced in an extra few inches of cable, and a new spade connector, and I'm back with my fog horn. 

Could have been broken ages, not used it in a long time.


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## cosmicbike (28 Feb 2022)

I'm bringing down the neighbourhood again. My new to me Volvo V70R is up on axle stands again. Trying to track down a front end rattle, so now drop links fitted. Whilst it's up I'm also trying to pin down a reasonable oil leak from the back of the engine. Never leaks when stationary, so I'm hoping it's the turbo oil return to the sump which is spraying under load. The gearbox output shaft it right next to it so any oil spitting from the seals will get splattered everywhere. A few quids worth of parts, but a fiddly job to change.


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## shep (28 Feb 2022)

fossyant said:


> Just dropped Ms Fos at college. On the way back along the 'motorway' a van driver was driving like a 'silly van driver'. So I gave him a little 'toot' on the horn. Problem was, it was a 'little toot' - like those poor single tone car's are. Whatttt.
> 
> Popped the plastic cover off, and one of the horns cables has snapped. Off with the horn, spliced in an extra few inches of cable, and a new spade connector, and I'm back with my fog horn.
> 
> Could have been broken ages, not used it in a long time.


As a matter of interest what does 'tooting ' at someone you think has committed a 'crime' actually mean?

Is it to alert the driver of your presence or is it to somehow make him/her aware of your displeasure of their actions?


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## fossyant (28 Feb 2022)

shep said:


> As a matter of interest what does 'tooting ' at a driver you think has committed a 'crime' actually mean?
> 
> Is it to alert the driver of your presence or is it to somehow make him/her aware of your displeasure of their actions?



I supose swerving all over the motorway without indiation and nearly crashing in front of you. I only had a little toot !


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## shep (28 Feb 2022)

fossyant said:


> I supose swerving all over the motorway without indiation and nearly rashing in front of you. I only had a little toot !


Sorry, not sure what you've said here?


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## fossyant (28 Feb 2022)

shep said:


> Sorry, not sure what you've said here?


Driver was driving dangerously, as I passed a tooted as he was swerving in and out without indication. Anyway, what's this got to do with car DIY... 

I have no idea how long one of the hooters wasn't working for.


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## fossyant (28 Feb 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I'm bringing down the neighbourhood again. My new to me Volvo V70R is up on axle stands again. Trying to track down a front end rattle, so now drop links fitted. Whilst it's up I'm also trying to pin down a reasonable oil leak from the back of the engine. Never leaks when stationary, so I'm hoping it's the turbo oil return to the sump which is spraying under load. The gearbox output shaft it right next to it so any oil spitting from the seals will get splattered everywhere. A few quids worth of parts, but a fiddly job to change.


Only takes a tiny drip to spread given air flow - just have to try and trace it back !


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## shep (28 Feb 2022)

fossyant said:


> Driver was driving dangerously, as I passed a tooted as he was swerving in and out without indication. Anyway, what's this got to do with car DIY...
> 
> I have no idea how long one of the hooters wasn't working for.


You piss*d?


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## fossyant (1 Mar 2022)

shep said:


> You piss*d?


Nope. Now tootle off 👅 PS typing on a phone with big fingers isn't easy


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## cosmicbike (2 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> Only takes a tiny drip to spread given air flow - just have to try and trace it back !


Since the weather has been rubbish I've been consigned to finishing the kitchen, so the Volvo is still on stands. At least if it's a static leak I may be able to spot it over the next few days. If nothing then I plan to run it whilst on the stands and video it from underneath on the phone, see if I get anywhere that way.


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2022)

The Datsun is poorly. Trip to Wales at weekend, perfect going down, but didn't start promptly when we got into it yesterday morning. Took a bit of cranking ! Main issue is it didn't have much poke, so drove it stready on the way home - no MIL, but it managed "about" 70 OK.

Filled with premium when near home, but on starting the MIL came on.

ODBC plugged in and read the fault code - P0335 crankshaft position sensor. Reset then tested again. I'm getting about 50% immediate starts, the rest take cranking. Running OK but I've not driven it. As the code has popped up again, I've ordered a set of genuine Nissan crank and cam sensors off ebay (new in box) for £54. Parts should arrive this week. Needs the car on a set of ramps as it's at the rear bottom of the engine. 

Anyone know if crank sensors are in the 'oil' - do I prepare for oil to come out ?


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## rockyroller (7 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> The Datsun is poorly. Trip to Wales at weekend, perfect going down, but didn't start promptly when we got into it yesterday morning. Took a bit of cranking ! Main issue is it didn't have much poke, so drove it stready on the way home - no MIL, but it managed "about" 70 OK.
> 
> Filled with premium when near home, but on starting the MIL came on.
> 
> ...


sorry can't help you but curious what Datsun you have. I haven't see that name in the US in a long time. learned to drive a stick in a HS teacher's 240Z (1977). I was so bad my friend Sherry couldn't stop laughing the whole time


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## fossyant (7 Mar 2022)

rockyroller said:


> sorry can't help you but curious what Datsun you have. I haven't see that name in the US in a long time. learned to drive a stick in a HS teacher's 240Z (1977). I was so bad my friend Sherry couldn't stop laughing the whole time



Sorry it's a 'joke' - we sometimes still call them Datsuns, It's a Nissan Primera - not dissimilar looking to the Maxima in the US (from around 2005 - my car is 2001), although fitted with less polluting euro engines !


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## rockyroller (7 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> Sorry it's a 'joke' - we sometimes still call them Datsuns, It's a Nissan Primera - not dissimilar looking to the Maxima in the US (from around 2005 - my car is 2001), although fitted with less polluting euro engines !


oh haha cool!


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

And the Nissan/Datsun lives.

Two sensors arrived today - genuine Nissan sensor pack off ebay, crank and cam with end serial number letters 3 and 4. One on the car were 0 and 1. So 3 replaced 0, the faulty crank sensor, and then replaced 1 with 4 as a matched pair. I was a bit dubious, but the parts were physically identical.

What a bloody job to get out. - The sensor is located at the rear of the engine, above the drive shaft about half way up - only access is from the rear of the engine underneath - other side blocked by gearbox, and top - too many hoses and metal pipes.

Under car, on my back, arm up between drive shaft and subframe, elbow deep. Got the retaining screw out, but the sensor wouldn't pull. It would rotate in the 'hole', but would it come out ? Took an hour of twisting and turning, using this tool and that to try and prise it out. Finally it popped out. New one just slotted in without any trouble, no resistance at all. I think the seals swell over time. THe cam sensor was at the top of the engine and a couple of minutes to swap.

Car started first time but, it was running rough. A quick drive and the MIL reported cylinder 3 misfire (using an ODBC II reader). In with new spark plugs and brake cleanered the coil packs. Swapped 3 and 4 to prove 3 was dodgy - as you pull the coil pack, it stops a spark plug firing, so when I pulled the swapped 3 out, it ran even worse (2 cylinders). Swapped back and cleaned up 3 again. Fortunately, this extra cleaning sorted it.

Hopefully another 20 years out of it. The Mrs was like 'you need a new car, it's getting on, I know you don't use it much but...' So £54 for parts and an extra £18 for four plugs, and a sweary hour or so and it's purring again.

Dasun nice Nissan !

The big wory was if this didn't sort it, it could be a stretched timing chain, and it's a massive job (they don't tend to stretch on these engines though - but it would get worse, rather than an 'instant' starting/misfire like mine was). A new chain would be a big job in labour and more than the car's worth.


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

The offending bits of plastic with magnets and stuff. Critical on modern injected cars.


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## rockyroller (9 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> The offending bits of plastic with magnets and stuff. Critical on modern injected cars.


impressive work!


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

rockyroller said:


> impressive work!



Thinking about it, there was a recall on my car for these sensors, so I suspect I never got one - hence the serial number being a digit or two different (replacement revised part). I've owned the car 19 out of 20 years.


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## fraz101 (9 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> Thinking about it, there was a recall on my car for these sensors, so I suspect I never got one - hence the serial number being a digit or two different (replacement revised part). I've owned the car 19 out of 20 years.


Glad,you got it sorted and it was only the sensors.

I used to work on Renaults and we shared workshop with Nissan techs. Timing chains were very common for throwing the cam sensor fault codes. Very common for chain stretch which isn’t a quick or easy job.


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

fraz101 said:


> Glad,you got it sorted and it was only the sensors.
> 
> I used to work on Renaults and we shared workshop with Nissan techs. Timing chains were very common for throwing the cam sensor fault codes. Very common for chain stretch which isn’t a quick or easy job.



Chain stretch should only ever happen if the car isn't looked after - i.e. oil changes. Mine has had all that. We've had chain driven cars for over 20 years, no issues - Nissan and Toyota. It's like cam belts, you don't look after it, the car will get you.

Mine has a Nissan engine. Thing is a chain failure will start to cause running issues - that's when it needs looking at. A sensor going is quite quick TBH, but will lead to big problems. I've been massively impressed with Toyota and Nissan engines. Nissan always have a 'backdoor' fix without their software.


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## fraz101 (9 Mar 2022)

Yes oil quality is key to prolonging the life of the chain.

I have seen many Nissan chains stretched and the first symptom is usually MIL light on and showing cam sensor fault(as it alters cam timing due to chain stretch),usually then followed by a slight misfire


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

fraz101 said:


> Yes oil quality is key to prolonging the life of the chain.
> 
> I have seen many Nissan chains stretched and the first symptom is usually MIL light on and showing cam sensor fault(as it alters cam timing due to chain stretch),usually then followed by a slight misfire



I'd seen nothing until a struggled start - but the MIL said crankshaft. The car is old though, but it's been incredibly reliable, and hasn't ever 'broken down'.

Oil changes are key - but most folk won't pay nor will they do it. My son's mate's car had oil like soup come out of it, when he wondered why it wasn't running - they (son and mates) did their best to fix it - new oil, full service, but it was done for. 64 plate Corsa..


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## fraz101 (9 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> I'd seen nothing until a struggled start - but the MIL said crankshaft. The car is old though, but it's been incredibly reliable, and hasn't ever 'broken down'.
> 
> Oil changes are key - but most folk won't pay nor will they do it. My son's mate's car had oil like soup come out of it, when he wondered why it wasn't running - they (son and mates) did their best to fix it - new oil, full service, but it was done for. 64 plate Corsa..


Like you said earlier there was indeed a recall on the sensors many years ago And it’s usually cam sensor fault with a stretched chain.
Keep changing the oil regularly 👍


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

fraz101 said:


> Like you said earlier there was indeed a recall on the sensors many years ago And it’s usually cam sensor fault with a stretched chain.
> Keep changing the oil regularly 👍



I think mine never got done  It's the bike hauler, as it's easier getting bikes on the 'car' rather than the Qashqai - which has been brill too.

It's old, still looks nice, comfy, has lots of toys... and can get 4 big MTB's on the roof, 4 riders in the car in comfort, dirty kit in the boot, and still wipe clean with a baby wipe (the interior is cream .....)...


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## fossyant (9 Mar 2022)

Pic on my avatar....


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## fossyant (10 Mar 2022)

Happy to report the car is running well, and just got an MPG record on the way to our caravan, 45.4mpg, running on super unleaded. Worth the extra as E10 gets less than 40mpg.


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## rockyroller (13 Mar 2022)

button cluster on the driver's door. 2014 Jeep Cherokee. tried a cheap unit off Amazon that only partially worked. returned that & got a legit Mopar unit for considerably more. fix the problem with having to wiggle the driver's window button to get it up. also now the auto-up works again. the re-programming procedure didn't work. replacing the whole cluster did the trick





two connectors, easy peasy




never had a set of window buttons fail before. I may be a window over-user. surprised they are so reliable. at least replacing them was easy


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## tyred (13 Mar 2022)

rockyroller said:


> button cluster on the driver's door. 2014 Jeep Cherokee. tried a cheap unit off Amazon that only partially worked. returned that & got a legit Mopar unit for considerably more. fix the problem with having to wiggle the driver's window button to get it up. also now the auto-up works again. the re-programming procedure didn't work. replacing the whole cluster did the trick
> View attachment 635197
> 
> two connectors, easy peasy
> ...


It is my experience that electric windows give less trouble than their manual predecessors.


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## tyred (13 Mar 2022)

I had a plan to fit a USB charging socket in place of the cigarette lighter as I find those adapters never stay in place so bought something suitable from ebay surprisingly cheaply. 

What I've found is that it has a big blue light in it even with nothing plugged into it so I will have to fit a switch or else find a power source controlled by the ignition switch but can't really be bothered dismantling the dashboard to find one


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## gbb (13 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> Happy to report the car is running well, and just got an MPG record on the way to our caravan, 45.4mpg, running on super unleaded. Worth the extra as E10 gets less than 40mpg.


Which echoed my experience, around a 10:% increase in fuel consumption with E10. Lying b'stards and their 2 % calculation.
I stick with E5 now, better for GDI engines anyway.


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## fossyant (13 Mar 2022)

fossyant said:


> Happy to report the car is running well, and just got an MPG record on the way to our caravan, 45.4mpg, running on super unleaded. Worth the extra as E10 gets less than 40mpg.



Got over 44 mpg on the way back as well, steady 60 mph on the motorway (and uphill). Must report the car is not worse for wear with the misfire/dodgy sensor - all fixed and running well, panic station over. E5 normal would get low 40's if I took it careful, so E5 Super wasn't worth it, but the drop with E10, is worth popping in the Super these days. I've never seen plus 40 mpg on the way home, and today was cross/head winds (also 10am from Wales not 5pm)

If your car isn't used much, Super is better for the tenancy for E10 to absorb more water (conensation).


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## keithmac (14 Mar 2022)

Replace the electronic boot strut this morning, was a lot easier than I expected and calibrated first time.

Managed not to knock myself out which was the top priority to be fair!


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## MrGrumpy (16 Apr 2022)

Just spent an afternoon fixing my PDC sensors on the Disco. Wiring loom had rubbed on the metal chassis underneath the bumper. Been annoying the hell out of me for 2 months. So decided to try and get it fixed. Broken wire managed to take out the sensors and rear camera . So all repaired now with some cable and solder. Now wrapped on cable sleeve .


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## Phaeton (16 Apr 2022)

Son took one of the kitcars on a trackday, drove there, came back on a flatbed, he's manage to snap a driveshaft, although TBF looking at it,





I think it was my fault, I don't think I put it in correctly.


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## Phaeton (21 Apr 2022)

Sunday saw the removal of the diff & the remaining driveshaft, then off on a trip to buy another set, Monday saw the reverse process putting it all back together, only slight hiccup was the prop shaft the existing one was 40mm too long as the new set-up has a damper on the diff input shaft which mine didn't have. Luckily in my stash of stuff I had another prop shaft which luckily was the one I needed.

Today I got chance to go out & test the LSD.


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## rockyroller (22 Apr 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Sunday saw the removal of the diff & the remaining driveshaft, then off on a trip to buy another set, Monday saw the reverse process putting it all back together, only slight hiccup was the prop shaft the existing one was 40mm too long as the new set-up has a damper on the diff input shaft which mine didn't have. Luckily in my stash of stuff I had another prop shaft which luckily was the one I needed.
> 
> Today I got chance to go out & test the LSD.
> 
> View attachment 641161



nice!

View: https://youtu.be/LFdpIM5k_Sk


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## Richard A Thackeray (29 Apr 2022)

The recently purchased Touareg has a non-functioning high-level brake-light
After much consultation of owners forums/YouTube, we've come to the conclusion that it's going to be huge _pain in the proverbial _to replace
I've managed, after risking fingertips & nails, to remove the section of the trim that gives access to the supply wire

However............ father-in-law left the multimeter at the caravan a couple of days ago, so we can't test to see if there's a feed to it , & if there's not, it's 'further upstream'?_ 
Sods Law_ dictates it'll be in the hinge assembly, where the supplies run through a plastic shrouding that (at first glance) is prevented from being removed by the actual tail-gate hinge
If there is a 12v supply to it. I might bypass it all together & fit one of these (or similar); 
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Universal-Third-Brake-Light-Mount/dp/B07H9N1R3N/ref=sr_1_53?crid=1BXLG88GPNCP3&keywords=high+level+led+brake+light&qid=1651247973&s=automotive&sprefix=high+leve%2Cautomotive%2C270&sr=1-53


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## Phaeton (29 Apr 2022)

Do you not have a spare bulb, bulb holder & a couple of lengths of wire? @Richard A Thackeray


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## Phaeton (29 Apr 2022)

Just been & fetched a bit of a fixer upper






Only joking I've only bought it for the engine, but it was the easiest way to get it home.


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## Richard A Thackeray (29 Apr 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Do you not have a spare bulb, bulb holder & a couple of lengths of wire? @Richard A Thackeray


Yes, of course
It was more a case of giving him something to do
Now....... do I remind him that there'll probably be no live feed to the relevant plug/socket, with the 'hatch' open, if he tests it tmorrow?


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## Richard A Thackeray (1 May 2022)

With regard to the above
It's a complete & utter 


Microscopic wire, with a less that 1mm pin/hole to try & insert a meter into on the live feed, & to test the light itself
I'm at the point of simply cutting the plugs off to test it, *but*, that probably risks it throwing up stupid dashboard messages about bulb-failure )or such like


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## DRM (1 May 2022)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> With regard to the above
> It's a complete & utter
> 
> 
> ...



Poke a paper clip or similar in the hole, or even take the paper from a sandwich bag tie, put that in the connector,then touch the wire with the meter probes


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## keithmac (1 May 2022)

You need these (plus leads to match if yours aren't two piece).


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## Badger_Boom (1 May 2022)

keithmac said:


> Replace the electronic boot strut this morning, was a lot easier than I expected and calibrated first time.
> 
> Managed not to knock myself out which was the top priority to be fair!
> 
> View attachment 635310



I replaced both the manual ones on my Discovery 3 last week, plus a rear indicator bulb. This was, however, a warm up for replacing the alternator which had shown worrying signs of failure the week before.

it was a surprisingly easy job apart from the earth band which refused to come off until I snapped the post off the old one.


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## rockyroller (2 May 2022)

Wifey backed into & knocked over Daughter's Boyfriend's motorcycle & dented the gas tank


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## MrGrumpy (2 May 2022)

rockyroller said:


> Wifey backed into & knocked over Daughter's Boyfriend's motorcycle & dented the gas tank



Ooohyaa f…..ker . Was he trying to get away


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## MrGrumpy (2 May 2022)

Next job was the door actuator , however after some dismantling I noticed the small cable from actuator to inside handle is damaged. The outer has a broken clip boooo. Ordered on from eBay , so be end of the week before I can continue .


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## rockyroller (2 May 2022)

MrGrumpy said:


> Ooohyaa f…..ker . Was he trying to get away



hehe no, & nothing Freudian. she just has a reputation for hitting vehicles while backing up


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## cosmicbike (2 May 2022)

My 'new to me' 1998 V70R continues to keep me occupied. I've done most stuff but been struggling to find a minor coolant loss, minor enough not to drip anywhere, major enough to lose a few mm from the coolant reservoir every 100 miles. Compression test showed a healthy 13 bar on all 5 cylinders, so I figured I'd try a UV dye. Added this morning, 30 miles later, leak found.






Turbo coolant feed line banjo joint. 20 pence in parts, no doubt a day of swearing....


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## Phaeton (2 May 2022)

I got back from the kit car show to find






No idea where I lost it, suppose it means no speeding tickets


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## Phaeton (4 May 2022)

Took the other kit car to Nottingham yesterday morning for it's IVA test, it's like a MOT test but far stricter as they also check that it conforms to all the rules, regulation & legislation, quite a big deal, VOSA charge you £450 for the privilege & if you fail it's £90 for each re-test until you get a pass. It's always a bit stressful no matter how friendly the tester is, some of the areas are a bit wooly to say the least & are open to personal interpretation, but they have a job to do so best not to argue. But came away with a 1st time pass which is great although it did look in doubt at one point, just could not get the emissions to come into scope, on investigation I found a piece of rubber hose not connected to anything. Looking around the engine at where the pipe could reach I found a unit with electrical connector where you could see that the pipe had broken. Since found out it's a purge valve but no idea at the time, but I sealed the unit with a tiny screw I found in the Shogun & a tie wrap on the pipe, this sorted the emissions out PHEW!

Just need to get it registered now, but I'm going to sell it now & let the new owner register it & become the first owner on the V5C


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## Badger_Boom (7 May 2022)

MrGrumpy said:


> View attachment 642798
> 
> 
> Next job was the door actuator , however after some dismantling I noticed the small cable from actuator to inside handle is damaged. The outer has a broken clip boooo. Ordered on from eBay , so be end of the week before I can continue .



I have a similar problem but in the absence of anywhere proper to work I’ve decided to leave it to the professionals.


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## MrGrumpy (7 May 2022)

Badger_Boom said:


> I have a similar problem but in the absence of anywhere proper to work I’ve decided to leave it to the professionals.



Wise move lol , I’ve swapped mine out and the door now locks ! However I broke the new cable I ordered  trying to take it all apart again becauseI cannot open the door from the inside !


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## MrGrumpy (11 May 2022)

MrGrumpy said:


> Wise move lol , I’ve swapped mine out and the door now locks ! However I broke the new cable I ordered  trying to take it all apart again becauseI cannot open the door from the inside !



I think it know what’s wrong with this but not sure 🤔 want to strip it all back again . I’ll see ….. certainly not till after my holiday next week.


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## tyred (14 May 2022)

I gave the Fabia a bit of a service today and fitted the replacement gearbox mounting. I don't know the service history but judging by the oil filter it was well overdue. Engine now sounds a lot happier and hopefully the new air filter will help fuel consumption. I also freed and lubed the sticky bonnet release and fixed the broken parcel shelf. The joys of recommissioning a freebie car. 

I also started my 205 for the first time since February and drove it around the yard a bit. I must find someone to do some welding for me.


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## Richard A Thackeray (18 May 2022)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> The recently purchased Touareg has a non-functioning high-level brake-light
> After much consultation of owners forums/YouTube, we've come to the conclusion that it's going to be huge _pain in the proverbial _to replace
> I've managed, after risking fingertips & nails, to remove the section of the trim that gives access to the supply wire
> 
> ...


The ordered high-level brake-light arrived yesterday
Quite surprisingly, the Touaregs rear window slopes enough to keep the light face vertical!

Now, l’ve just got to remove some trim to get to the wiring






I’ve also ordered a set of ‘jump-lead’ clamps
I have a set in the Kodiaq, & also have another set hanging in the garage
The garage set were in my Land Rovers, & have an Anderson Plug at one end, the clamps are damaged
(must have been dropped & stood on at some point?)
They’re probably about a 500 amp rating?

*EDIT; Thursday 19th @ 09:23*

Back in the day.......


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## Richard A Thackeray (18 May 2022)

With regard to the above
It’s in place, barring a couple of pieces of trim to go back

With 2 ‘Caveats’
*1.* Due to the tailgate wiring seeming to go through the head-lining & descending into body at the ‘C-pillar’, not the ‘D’, as l expected, there’s a couple of inches showing in the tailgate surround
I ran it through a length of heat-shrink tubing to help protect it
‘Needs Must’
(I wasn’t ripping out the headlining to get further)

*2.* Schoolboy Error
It works, but……. it’s a bit dim
I didn’t even consider the silly ‘privacy glass’


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## Phaeton (19 May 2022)

Decided to change the engine on one of the kit cars, from a 1.6 to a 1.8 VVT, 110 bhp to 146 bhp, thought it would be a nice easy swap, but no, the whole wiring harness has to be changed, also the exhaust manifolds & downpipes are completely different


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## DRM (19 May 2022)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> The ordered high-level brake-light arrived yesterday
> Quite surprisingly, the Touaregs rear window slopes enough to keep the light face vertical!
> 
> Now, l’ve just got to remove some trim to get to the wiring
> ...



That Anderton plug looks like a 120A to me, they come in 50A, 120A, 175A & 350A, the bigger the capacity, the bigger the plug, most material handling trucks now use REMA plugs which come in male and female, and 80A, 160A & 320A sizes.


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## DRM (19 May 2022)

REMA type plugs


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## Richard A Thackeray (19 May 2022)

DRM said:


> That Anderton plug looks like a 120A to me, they come in 50A, 120A, 175A & 350A, the bigger the capacity, the bigger the plug, most material handling trucks now use REMA plugs which come in male and female, and 80A, 160A & 320A sizes.


They'll get chopped off, when I get the 'crocodile clips', & thrown in the back of the Touareg, for emergency use


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## Richard A Thackeray (20 May 2022)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> They'll get chopped off, when I get the 'crocodile clips', & thrown in the back of the Touareg, for emergency use


I somehow doubt that they're 'fit for purpose'


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## Phaeton (20 May 2022)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> View attachment 645310



I have a set like that, I used to have the Anderton connectors on all the vehicles (including the caravan), then a set of jump leads with a male/female connector near one end along with a set of big croc clips, if I want to use them just as normal jump leads just use the crocs, if I wanted to use the Anderton just unplug the crocs & plug the Anderton straight in.


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## Phaeton (24 May 2022)

Looking slightly better


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## stephec (27 May 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Looking slightly better
> 
> View attachment 646145



Are you actually doing all the work on the driveway, rolling an engine hoist over that block paving?


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## fossyant (27 May 2022)

Ah, thinking about this has given me an idea. I need to change the lower engine mount on the Aygo, but one of the bolts isn't budging. Son's got the breaker bar in his car, but I couldn't move it last time - the dugga dugga gun won't move it, even after applying heat.

Just realised my son has a piece of box section steel that I can use as an extender for the breaker bar. I'll let you know when I can get in his car for the breaker bar - the Aygo is currently on ramps !


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## Phaeton (27 May 2022)

stephec said:


> Are you actually doing all the work on the driveway, rolling an engine hoist over that block paving?



Yep. all work has to be done on the drive I have no garage to speak of, it is only a storage area.


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## fossyant (27 May 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Yep. all work has to be done on the drive I have no garage to speak of, it is only a storage area.



You are like my son. PS the car looks like it's puked !


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## Phaeton (27 May 2022)

fossyant said:


> You are like my son. PS the car looks like it's puked !



Getting there a lot less wires in there now, but making it tidy is the hard one without cutting & shutting every single wire.


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## fossyant (28 May 2022)

fossyant said:


> Ah, thinking about this has given me an idea. I need to change the lower engine mount on the Aygo, but one of the bolts isn't budging. Son's got the breaker bar in his car, but I couldn't move it last time - the dugga dugga gun won't move it, even after applying heat.
> 
> Just realised my son has a piece of box section steel that I can use as an extender for the breaker bar. I'll let you know when I can get in his car for the breaker bar - the Aygo is currently on ramps !



Job jobbed. Box section on end of breaker bar shifted the bolt. Nice 3ft long breaker ! Lower engine mount was worn, the larger end being a bit 'loose' and the rubber worn. Fairly straight forward to replace, jacked engine to support it whilst changing. The part was £20. Cheap as chips these Aygo's.


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## Tom B (28 May 2022)

One of the best tools I own is a 3ft knuckle breaker bar. Great for all sorts of jobs including scaring idiots. When I used to work and run shops in dubious areas it stayed in the car footwell along with a few sockets to legitimise it (a 17mm and some whitworth sockets - handy for a 1998 corsavan)

Just bought a car that needs a clutch. Briefly considered doing it on the drive. Then remembered the swearing I did doing. A much smaller clutch on the Corsa years ago.

Local clutch man reckons he can do it in a morning.

I still can't get my head around why the clutch gets lower and lower as it wears.


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## Phaeton (28 May 2022)

Tom B said:


> I still can't get my head around why the clutch gets lower and lower as it wears.



It's all about leverage, as the plate wears it gets thinner, which means the release bearing moves forward to take up the slack/wear. The few millimetres it moves is exaggerated immensely by the length of the clutch pedal.


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## MrGrumpy (28 May 2022)

Think I’ve only ever fitted one clutch on my life time. My mother however needed a new clutch in her Corsa after about 4yrs old. Hence her next car will be an auto . Will be her last car, she’s 84 this year .


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## DaveReading (29 May 2022)

Changing Mini clutches was a piece of cake ...


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## fossyant (29 May 2022)

My son's done a few clutches, when replacing his engine twice.


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## gbb (29 May 2022)

Never done a clutch, looked at them and always thought it should be quite achievable.
I know, stripping machines at work you know you've never done it before, probably won't ever do it again so you approach it blind, and particually, when putting stuff back together, occasionally put loads if stuff back to realise, oh, I didn't realise that piece won't go in now and have to strip back to the point where you can 
Lots of stuff to strip back on modern cars before you even get to the bit you're interested in.


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## Phaeton (29 May 2022)

DaveReading said:


> Changing Mini clutches was a piece of cake ...



Presume you mean the real Mini's they were okay IF the flywheel came off, if not they could be right barstools been known to have to cut the flywheel off before


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## DCLane (2 Jun 2022)

Our Peugeot Tepee's showing some rust under the number plate. So that's come off, only to discover whoever put the last set of plates on - 10+ years ago? - just drilled a pile of holes then stuck the plate in. Some of the holes were used. Others have just been letting water / dirt in. Quite a bit of paint has lifted and there's several rust patches underneath.

So the back's been cleaned up, lifted paint taken off, all sanded and I'm in the process of treating the rust. The bottom sill is getting some treatment as well since that was welded for the MOT last year but is showing rust signs.

Then it'll be all anti-rust primer'd, then painted over the next few days.


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## Electric_Andy (2 Jun 2022)

Not DIY but I wish I could. Having new clutch and flywheel fitted on Wednesday, £1000 😭


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## Phaeton (2 Jun 2022)

Electric_Andy said:


> Not DIY but I wish I could. Having new clutch and flywheel fitted on Wednesday, £1000 😭



Dual mass?


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## bikingdad90 (2 Jun 2022)

@Electric_Andy not looking forward to getting my Scenic done. It’s on 70,000
Miles and 7 years old this year. It has a heavy clutch (high bite point) but it’s running fine. 

Been told it’s an engine out job to replace the clutch when it does go.


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## gavroche (2 Jun 2022)

Just come back from a vintage car show and one had the bonnet open to show the engine. It was a Ford from the 70s and it reminded me how easy to was then to work on a car. So much room around the engine and everything at hand. 
Now, when I open the bonnet on my car, no space around the engine, loads of electronic devices and everything buried under everything else.
How mechanical things have changed and become so complicated for the DIY mechanic, if there is still such a thing.  Certainly not for me.


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## Phaeton (2 Jun 2022)

bikingdad90 said:


> @Electric_Andy not looking forward to getting my Scenic done. It’s on 70,000
> Miles and 7 years old this year. It has a heavy clutch (high bite point) but it’s running fine.
> 
> Been told it’s an engine out job to replace the clutch when it does go.



Our Rav4 144k still on original clutch & have towed caravan, cars on trailers, still going strong.


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## Electric_Andy (3 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Dual mass?



Yes. I was expecting it anyway, it's over due


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## Phaeton (3 Jun 2022)

Engine & all the wiring finished, seems to pull nicely, just got a couple of issues, I didn't tighten the water pump pulley bolts properly & they knackered up the new drive belt, also as I've removed the charcoal canister the MIL comes on the say there's a problem with the purge valve, hopefully I can find a fix for that.


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## raleighnut (5 Jun 2022)

bikingdad90 said:


> @Electric_Andy not looking forward to getting my Scenic done. It’s on 70,000
> Miles and 7 years old this year. It has a heavy clutch (high bite point) but it’s running fine.
> 
> Been told it’s an engine out job to replace the clutch when it does go.



With most cars it's either engine or gearbox out to do a clutch (Mini's and SAAB99/900's excepted)

Funny story, years ago a mate had a SAAB 99 and when the clutch went he took it to a local garage to get it fixed (He'd moved back up to Scotland by then) anyway a few months later he came back to visit friends in Leicester and when he came to see me he asked (knowing I'd been a SAAB mechanic) how long it would take to change a clutch, when I told him 2 1/2- 3 hours he was incredulous.
The procedure is

Take the bonnet off
remove the grill
Undo 4 bolts and the bottom hose and remove the front panel with radiator, cooling fan and headlamps still attached and move it to the windscreen area where it will sit on the heater box.
Undo 3 screws that hold the plastic clutch shield on.
Depress clutch pedal (you need some help here) and insert either the 'special tool' or a length of hard wire between the diaphagm springs and the outer cover to keep the spring compressed.
Then remove a litttle cover and extract the spigot shaft which has a threaded hole in the end for removing it.
Then either remove the actuating fork or unscrew the 3 bolts that hold the (internal) slave cylinder on (depends on the age of the car as they changed from an external slave cylinder and an arm to an internal cylinder with the release bearing concentric with it)
Remove the 6 bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel and lift it out as one assembly, if you haven't inserted the tool or the length of wire it won't come out (not enough clearance)
Either take the old clutch cover to a press or as we used to do jack up one wheel and use that to compress the spring by lowering the car onto it gently with either the 2nd 'special tool' or any suitable bit of round wood or metal so you can extact the 'special tool #1 (or bit of wire) then lift the car back up/release the press then place the new clutch in and depess the springs so you can insert tool #1 in that.
Put the centre plate, cover and release bearing togher in order and drop it back in to the clutch housing then using the spigot shaft to align the centre plate (no need for a 'blind' spigot shaft or aligning tool) put the 6 bolts back in that hold the clutch to the flywheel and torque them up then (using the assistant again) depess the clutch pedal and extract tool #1 (or bit of wire),replace the cover.lift the front panel down and reinstall the 4 bolts, refit the top hose and then screw the grill back on,refit the bonnet and fill the coolant system back up. On the very early cars you may need to adjust the clutch fork pivot bolt but the later cars are 'self adjusting'.
It seems the local garage he took it to didn't know this and having got 'stuck' decided to seperate the engine and gearbox whilst it was still in the engine bay, now I have no idea how they managed this as some of the bolts are really inacccesible, we would lift the entire assembly out as a unit before splitting them but suffice it to say it took them about 3 days to do the clutch and he ended up with a bill like the national debt of a 3rd world country.


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## Phaeton (5 Jun 2022)

raleighnut said:


> With most cars it's either engine or gearbox out to do a clutch (Mini's and SAAB99/900's excepted)



Vauxhall's did it with the Cavalier MK2 & 3's, you could pull the main gearbox input shaft back into the gearbox from the passenger side wheel well, then drop the clutch & pressure plate out of the middle, took a little aligning to get back, but saved ages in time, no idea why they dropped the idea.


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## bikingdad90 (5 Jun 2022)

It was a Renault main dealer that said it’s an engine out job.


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## Phaeton (5 Jun 2022)

bikingdad90 said:


> It was a Renault main dealer that said it’s an engine out job.



We had a Megan at one point, that fat arsed one, one of the front wishbone bushes was highlighted at MOT time, not a fail but I thought I'd look at it. To do it the Renault way that was an engine out job or at least you had to disconnected everything & drop the whole engine/gearbox along with the front suspension subframe. The reason was that the bolts had been put in by the robot from the front of the car going towards the rear, which meant they couldn't be removed as there was not enough clearance with engine/gearbox/subframe attached.

It potentially is the same with yours to do it the Renault way, as you would not be able to remove a driveshaft to move the gearbox. However there is a trick for the sneaky mechanic who doesn't want to rip their customers off at Mainstealer rates. You undo the long suspension bolt, you drive the bolt out 10-15mm till it hits the body, then you saw the head off the bolt & pull the bolt back through the suspension arm. Once the arm is replaced or in your instance the clutch changed you replace the bolt with a new one going in from the opposite direction, very simple solution & save 10-15 hours work.


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## Tom B (6 Jun 2022)

Electric_Andy said:


> Not DIY but I wish I could. Having new clutch and flywheel fitted on Wednesday, £1000 😭



I was jolly happy with the £500, that's including a DMF or £400 if it isn't the DMF. I was quoted by a bloke who does clutches and gearboxes only. He reckons he does two a day. 

One before (my) breakfast.



bikingdad90 said:


> @Electric_Andy not looking forward to getting my Scenic done. It’s on 70,000
> Miles and 7 years old this year. It has a heavy clutch (high bite point) but it’s running fine.
> 
> Been told it’s an engine out job to replace the clutch when it does go.



My focus had 220k on it. The clutch was high, made all sorts odd groaning noises, but showed no signs of slipping or giving up. The DMF on that was however goosed. I'd been preparing to change that for about 6years.

Clutch guy reckons dmfs are good for no more than 100k, certain ford types half that. 

That's said he wasn't keen on doing solid conversions.


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## Phaeton (6 Jun 2022)

Tom B said:


> That's said he wasn't keen on doing solid conversions.



They make a lot of vibrations which essentially is what kills the DMF's


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## cosmicbike (7 Jun 2022)

Volvo 240 clutch was changed on the drive. Prop out, gearbox out etc. Awkward and a sod to do single handed, but simple enough.


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## Electric_Andy (7 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Dual mass?



yes that's right. The fingers have started to go (is what the mechanic said), though I don't really know what that means. but I knew it would need doing fairly soon, and Passat forum members had said it's between 1200-1500 quid so i was braced for it. It's been making a loud rattling when the clutch is pressed in so I knew something wasn't right. He said it could go in 6 months, or tomorrow, so I've not been driving it until it's booked in (which is tomorrow)


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## Phaeton (7 Jun 2022)

A traditional flywheel was a single piece of steel, it went on the end of the crankshaft & using the inertia of the weight spinning would keep the engine running, it was also the thing that kept the engine running when you came off the throttle going downhill.

The problem with diesel engines especially the common rail type is they have a lot of vibration, one of the fixes/aids to dampen that vibration is the dual mass flywheel. No idea who invented but could be Citroen/Peugeot it's made up of 3 pieces the inner part is steel which is connected the the crankshaft, the outer is also steel & that is the weight that carries the inertia, but these 2 parts are vulcanised together with rubber, but because of the constant vibration, this eventually gives up & the 2 parts separate from each other.

The real answer is to refine the engines more so they don't vibrate as badly, but that is expensive to build & car manufacturers don't like spending money getting the cars onto the road, they're quite happy if parts have a finite lifespan.


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## fossyant (8 Jun 2022)

Quick Oil change on the Aygo - only thing that's not been done since we got it in November as it did have fresh oil in. Changed from 5w30 to 5w40 as it's over 100k now and it might quieten the little 3 cylinder a little.

No matter how careful you are, you always splosh some oil on the floor - this time moving the used oil tray ! Out with the degreaser, brush and hose to remove the stain.


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## Adam4868 (8 Jun 2022)

fossyant said:


> Quick Oil change on the Aygo - only thing that's not been done since we got it in November as it did have fresh oil in. Changed from 5w30 to 5w40 as it's over 100k now and it might quieten the little 3 cylinder a little.
> 
> No matter how careful you are, you always splosh some oil on the floor - this time moving the used oil tray ! Out with the degreaser, brush and hose to remove the stain.


Is that not what cardboard 
boxes are for 😁


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## fossyant (8 Jun 2022)

Adam4868 said:


> Is that not what cardboard
> boxes are for 😁



I know - I covered the ground with taupaulin, moved the tray, then sploshed it. Also put used oil in a container that had a hole in it... FFS.

Fortunately, screwfix degreaser to the rescue, and it wasn't on the drive - on the road. The Aygo can be oil changed without having to be jacked up as there aren't and underbody panels to remove !


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## Phaeton (10 Jun 2022)

Took the Mevster out today first real run after the engine swap & the rewire, all good apart from no horns, I can hear the relay click but the horns don't sound, hopefully a fuse, also no engine cooling fan, again hopefully something simple, suppose first check is did I plug the cable back in.


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## Andy_R (11 Jun 2022)

Changed the steering wheel and driver's airbag on my Occy today.
15 years of mucky fingers and sun damage have left the original in a right old state, so 40 quid for a new "to me" steering wheel and airbag from ebay. Bonus - I can stick my old airbag on the 'bay for £25. Just need to change the front seats now...


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## gbb (11 Jun 2022)

Oil and filters today.
How much are garages charging now ? DIY cost me IRO £45 for air and oil filters and oil and i could have spent double on oil, some of its ridiculously priced.
I had intended doing an interim one, say every 6000 miles but i forgot, 10000 miles is its standard...oil was quite dark.


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## Phaeton (12 Jun 2022)

Not quite Car DIY but we have a broad brush here at Phaeton Towers, the daughter saw a horse trailer for sale the other day & asked to go look, which I did, I too my trolley jack & checked each wheel bearing as the are silly expensive, they were all good, but it's difficult to check the brakes as it was just in a field, but she said they had been serviced by her mechanic brother, but there was a problem with the handbrake. Anyway bought it & I dragged it home with the Shogun & all was fine, but she was correct the handbrake lever was rusted solid, well it was the energy store (big spring in a tube) so I replaced that & tried the handbrake, still didn't stop the box rolling.

Today I figured I'd adjust the brake shoes up to get the handbrake working, however on removing the drums on one side I found out why the handbrake wasn't working there is no braking pad left on either of the shoes on one side, I expect the other side to be the same.














I'm glad I checked as I wouldn't want the daughter to be towing her horse & pony around in a box with no brakes like the previous owner clearly had.


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## bikingdad90 (12 Jun 2022)

Clearly telling porkies about her brother servicing the brakes!


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## tyred (12 Jun 2022)

bikingdad90 said:


> Clearly telling porkies about her brother servicing the brakes!



Serviced in 1983.


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## fossyant (13 Jun 2022)

Trailers do bother me, caravan's included, given how shoddy people maintain their own cars that get a yearly MOT.


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## Phaeton (13 Jun 2022)

fossyant said:


> Trailers do bother me, caravan's included, given how shoddy people maintain their own cars that get a yearly MOT.



I agree, this is even worse in my eyes as they were carrying horses in this up to a couple of weeks ago, no reason why any trailer over 750Kgs should not have an annual test, but again who is going to check that the test has been carried out, unless they went down the registration process.


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## fossyant (13 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> I agree, this is even worse in my eyes as they were carrying horses in this up to a couple of weeks ago, no reason why any trailer over 750Kgs should not have an annual test, but again who is going to check that the test has been carried out, unless they went down the registration process.



Exactly, I mean some MOT's are a bit dodgy - they can't have possibly checked the brakes on the Aygo we bought - front discs and pads were shot, and the MOT was two months before we bought it.... in this case the cost to me was just £38. I've checked the drums since and they are fine.


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## Phaeton (13 Jun 2022)

fossyant said:


> Exactly, I mean some MOT's are a bit dodgy - they can't have possibly checked the brakes on the Aygo we bought - front discs and pads were shot, and the MOT was two months before we bought it.... in this case the cost to me was just £38. I've checked the drums since and they are fine.



This is going to cost a fair bit more, the backplates are welded on, so will have to be cut off & then the new ones welded into position, not quite sure how to ensure they are in the correct place yet, they are £32 each, (£128) then 4 sets of shoes another £120 plus all the time involved


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## Scottish Scrutineer (13 Jun 2022)

gbb said:


> Oil and filters today.
> How much are garages charging now ? DIY cost me IRO £45 for air and oil filters and oil and i could have spent double on oil, some of its ridiculously priced.
> I had intended doing an interim one, say every 6000 miles but i forgot, 10000 miles is its standard...oil was quite dark.



Yes, I did part of the service on my Caravelle on Saturday; 

Oil & filter, decided to leave the fuel filter as I'd changed that in 2020, and haven't done much mileage. 
Repaired the front parking sensor that popped off the inside of the bumper at least 4 years ago; access involved removing the bumper which was a bit time consuming trying to find all the fastenings. 
Cleaned out the build-up of debris from between the radiator, aircon rad and intercooler whilst the front gill was off.
Found out I had ordered the wrong gearbox mount (5-speed mount won't fit), and decided it really does need changing soon
Discovered I need a larger set of multi-spline bits to replace the anti-roll bar bushes
A reasonable productive day, even managed to wash the engine and outside.


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## CXRAndy (13 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> This is going to cost a fair bit more, the backplates are welded on, so will have to be cut off & then the new ones welded into position, not quite sure how to ensure they are in the correct place yet, they are £32 each, (£128) then 4 sets of shoes another £120 plus all the time involved



If the backing plates are genuine parts, they should have identical weld points for position. Or just make sure edge of plate is equidistant from axle stub


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## gbb (15 Jun 2022)

I can see some DIY on the near horizon.
Went out to the car this morning (2018 Mazda 3 with Stop start)..door wouldnt open, nothing.
Got in with the key ...battery dead flat. Walked to my SILs (3 mins away ) to get the Doblo and jump mine, duly done. I assumed id maybe left the boot ajar or something but im not convinced id left anything awry.
14 mile drive, test battery, 12.2v static, dropping to 11.5 when starting, 13.2 charging at idle, 14.5 ish at 1500 rpm. First two readings are a tad low but its only 14 miles on a dead flat bettery.
I can get a Bosch equivelent for £123...tomorrow may be the decider.


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## Phaeton (15 Jun 2022)

gbb said:


> Doblo and jump mine, duly done.



Just an FYI & if I'm teaching a granny eggs & all that, ignore me, but on modern cars if you are going to jump them, before connecting the jump leads switch on the lights, that way if there is a spike/surge it goes to earth via the lights & not the ECU


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## Tom B (16 Jun 2022)

So a bit of a flap on here.

The aforementioned clutch still hasn't been done. Clutch God has personal issues and can't do it yet.

Took it to another garage who said they could do it next week. But identified issues getting a flywheel. Booked it in and asked them to let me know if they couldnt get one and I'd try to source one. My exact words leaving the places was book it in, and let me know if there are issues.

Called them today to check they'd got one and they couldn't find my booking, but then remembered. They called me back after trying to source a flywheel to advice the flywheels are in short supply and the only one they could get is £400 the job would now cost £1100. 

The killer was that apparently because they was having trouble getting a flywheel they booked other work in and now can't do it until I'm on holiday.... In the car. 

So now I'm back to trying to find someone to do it. Autodata shows it as a 3.5hr job so hopefully shouldn't be a complex one. 

However it is true that flywheels are in short supply for this car and consequently expensive if you can get one (second hand 100k miles dmfs are on eBay for £250!) Annoyingly I can get one for £200 from Germany but it won't be here in time.

Im now considering finding someone to fit just the clutch kit (bearing, friction plate and pressure plate).

Would the learned folk here advise on the sensibility of that? The car seems really smooth and no flywheel noise. I'm more concerned that the flywheel will be worn and won't resolve my issues. (Low clutch bite/dragging clutch)

Any views.


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## Tom B (16 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> They make a lot of vibrations which essentially is what kills the DMF's



Understood but my brain still wont cope with the pedal moving down as it wears.


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## MrGrumpy (17 Jun 2022)

Tom B said:


> So a bit of a flap on here.
> 
> The aforementioned clutch still hasn't been done. Clutch God has personal issues and can't do it yet.
> 
> ...



Not very learned with these DMF, what’s the garages mechanics point of view ?


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## Phaeton (17 Jun 2022)

Are you sure the clutch needs changing? other than not having a lot of clutch pedal is it slipping?


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## Tom B (17 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Are you sure the clutch needs changing? other than not having a lot of clutch pedal is it slipping?


Yes but no but yes.

Best way I can describe it is push the clutch to the floor, pop it in first and start the car with the handbrake off and you'll feel it move slightly as the clutch drags.

Changing gear is problematic especially when hot. Double declutching helps as does rec matching. Problem is mainly getting it in first when stopped. There are no gear selection issues when engine is off and the box feels nice and tight.

There is no fluid loss and pumping the pedal doesn't change anything. I've had it to two clutch specialists one who seemed great (but has had to close for a few weeks) both diagnoses a clutch. Apparently it's the standard mode of failure for these. (Hyundai i40)

Apparently when they take the clutch out they don't appear much more than 50% worn. But give these symptoms and the only way to remedy is to change the clutch. Clutch God 1 was surer than sure it was the problem and I'm minded to agree with what he says.


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## CXRAndy (17 Jun 2022)

Choices, risk holiday in failing car or rent/borrow a nice car, no worries


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## Phaeton (17 Jun 2022)

Think I'd be tempted to just do the clutch & then do the flywheel at a later date IF the issue occurs


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## Scottish Scrutineer (17 Jun 2022)

Tom B said:


> Im now considering finding someone to fit just the clutch kit (bearing, friction plate and pressure plate).
> 
> Would the learned folk here advise on the sensibility of that? The car seems really smooth and no flywheel noise. I'm more concerned that the flywheel will be worn and won't resolve my issues. (Low clutch bite/dragging clutch)
> 
> Any views.


I'd be wary about going down that route. The clutch on my T5.1 went at 236k miles, the symptoms were intermittent loss of the pedal which came back with a bleed and when stripped the dual-mass flywheel was clearly knackered as well as the release bearing.

Video of DMF

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/2KDLrjMlp84?feature=share


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## rockyroller (17 Jun 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> Choices, risk holiday in failing car or rent/borrow a nice car, no worries



the latter


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## Tom B (17 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Think I'd be tempted to just do the clutch & then do the flywheel at a later date IF the issue occurs



Got a garage having a look tomorrow. He's up for doing just the clutch kit, but will look at the DMF both before he strips and and when it's stripped.

If it's obvious knackered then it'll need changing and I'll have to find one, but if it looks okay he's happy to build it back up and we can revisit it or not as required.

I only do about 4k a year so it's potential to outlast the car. My previous car have 220k on the flywheel. Twas a bit tired.


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## cosmicbike (22 Jun 2022)

Volvo number 2, the 1998 V70R, has been my ongoing project. Now the engine is pretty much sorted I moved onto other stuff, and decided on a quick hour to bleed the brakes yesterday before it got too hot. Which is why I was still there at 1130, 2.5 hours later. A leaky valve on my Gunsons pressure bleeding thingy being the cause. Glad I did it, the old stuff was green. Just over 1 litre later and all nice and clear.
Also 1 hour on the 240, oil and filter change. Love the old cars, so easy to service. 
Next up is SWMBO Fester, a modern lump which likes expensive oil...
One day, on day I'll actually get some time in on the Capri....


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## Phaeton (22 Jun 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> Next up is SWMBO Fester, a modern lump which likes expensive oil..



If this is the same Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, Volvo lump, just buy the expensive stuff through gritted teeth, you'll regret it if you don't


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## cosmicbike (22 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> If this is the same Ford, Citroen, Peugeot, Volvo lump, just buy the expensive stuff through gritted teeth, you'll regret it if you don't



It is, and I do, these modern things are fussy. Mind you, the old pinto in the Capri is too, likes a high zinc content.

I think far more fun will be had with the V70 next week. When removing the NSF wheel to bleed the brakes I got black grease on my fingers, and found the out CV gaiter starting to crack, must have just caught it. Rather than split the CV joint I've bought one of the stretch fit type boot that comes with a cone, will see how that goes. In the interim the 240 is my daily.


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## Phaeton (22 Jun 2022)

Never had much success with that type on the past so stay clear of them I try were possible to get the shaft out of the CV


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## tyred (23 Jun 2022)

I've used the stretch fit boot and cone method on the 205 without issue. It's a Godsend as Peugeot driveshafts were a bit different from normal and not that straightforward to take apart as you need to remove the whole thing to work on it and the driver's side one has a carrier bearing on in it.


----------



## Tom B (23 Jun 2022)

Moving in from the clutch job. Car is with original clutch God for it to be fettled today.

When did coolant get so complicated! I need to fix a coolant leak and will change the coolant.

The manual just says use antifreeze and water FFS.

Tempted as I am to put in Blue I think I'm going to go with red (if only to keep it the same as the missus honda jazz)


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## Scottish Scrutineer (23 Jun 2022)

Tom B said:


> Tempted as I am to put in Blue I think I'm going to go with red (if only to keep it the same as the missus honda jazz)


As it's an older cooling system, it should be fine with most coolant types, it's only the later vehicles with alloy blocks, pumps etc that are fussy. I'd go with red OAT anti-freeze if the Honda is the same. Makes life easier.


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## gbb (23 Jun 2022)

Tom B said:


> Yes but no but yes.
> 
> Best way I can describe it is push the clutch to the floor, pop it in first and start the car with the handbrake off and you'll feel it move slightly as the clutch drags.
> 
> ...



Had a similar problem but it was years (decades ) ago. Difficulty engaging gears, put in 1st, start car, felt as though it was already biting....clutch release bearing


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## Phaeton (25 Jun 2022)

Not quite a car, but my latest toy to play with, had to hand crank as no starter motor


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## gbb (25 Jun 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Not quite a car, but my latest toy to play with, had to hand crank as no starter motor




Scary 
Mid 1970s, we had a brickies mate did a lot of damage to his arm starting a cement mixer, starting arm didnt disengage....


----------



## Phaeton (25 Jun 2022)

gbb said:


> Scary
> Mid 1970s, we had a brickies mate did a lot of damage to his arm starting a cement mixer, starting arm didnt disengage....



Yes it should have stopped spinning, but I wasn't going to try to get hold of it to test the theory. As it's not fastened down I couldn't start it on my own, I couldn't spin it quick enough then throw the decompression lever, so waited until my son came over. He spun it over whilst I threw the lever, but I did explain all the dangers before he did, especially if it kicked back.


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## Tom B (27 Jun 2022)

Finally got the clutch done at the original specialist after he reopened and very kindly fitted me in.

Sadly it needed a DMF. It seemed someone had already been in the box and has damaged the drive shaft seals so that'll need doing as he couldn't get one at the time.

Killer was DMFs are in very short supply so had doubled in price as have clutch kits apparently they're made in the Ukraine. Or was. If you have a fiat 500 they're neigh on impossible to get.

Anyway point is it's like a different car and a pleasure to drive instead of fighting for every gear I can now hear the knocking Track Rod end.

Just need to sort the radiator. Euro car parts are odd folks. Two weeks ago they had three radiator types £65 £110 £140. Last week the £110 was sold out, the £65 was now £100 and the £140 was in-stock at 6 nearby branches. 

By Thursday only the £140 was available but in multiple locations, by 9am Saturday none were available. 

I can only imagine someone has decided to buy them all up, but from all the depots? Odd.

None of the other motor factors had one.

So I've have to order one from the internet, £85 5year guarantee.




My final point is, does anyone know anything about Aircon? When the car is warmed up and the AirCon is switched off there is a gentle ryrhimic..... Brrrrr........ Brrrrr..........brrr..... Coming from possibly the compressor. Doesnt seem linked to engine speed. Sounds a bit like the washing machine when the pump is running and the drum has emptied.
Turning on the AirCon stops it.

It seems Aircon compressors are in short supply too.

You don't get this mither with a bike.
.... Managed to squeeze roof box and two bikes on the car too.


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## fossyant (27 Jun 2022)

You could have an issue with the pump/clutch on the aircon ? We leave our a/c on on all our cars, even when cold outside.


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## bikingdad90 (27 Jun 2022)

@Tom B, does it happen when the air con is on recirculate? Might help you diagnose if it’s happening when pulling hot in and cooling it or just when recirculating cold air?


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## Tom B (27 Jun 2022)

fossyant said:


> You could have an issue with the pump/clutch on the aircon ? We leave our a/c on on all our cars, even when cold outside.



Yup it certainly seems to be coming from the compressor.

I tend to run mine weekly at least for a short time. So most of the year that means all the time.




bikingdad90 said:


> @Tom B, does it happen when the air con is on recirculate? Might help you diagnose if it’s happening when pulling hot in and cooling it or just when recirculating cold air?



Both.
I'm not sure if it goes away with a few revs on or if I just can't hear it for the revs.


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## cosmicbike (27 Jun 2022)

If you can see the compressor pulley it's worth checking to see if the clutch disengages when you turn the ac off, like any other clutch they wear but can normally be adjusted using shims.


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## Tom B (28 Jun 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> If you can see the compressor pulley it's worth checking to see if the clutch disengages when you turn the ac off, like any other clutch they wear but can normally be adjusted using shims.



How would I know from the pully?

I can see the pully, but there is no free end at the back of the compressor as such so I can't see if it disengaged.

With the car idling, hot, and the noise apparent it very gently hunts. Put the AC on and the hunting stops.

It also seems to deactivate the stop start too. But i'm new to that so not 100% sure thats the case.


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## BianchiVirgin (28 Jun 2022)

The pulley will freewheel, spin, all the time. When the clutch engages it obviously still spins but then has the compressor load on it. When on no load it sounds like yours must be not quite right as it should be virtually silent. Maybe it's starting to drag against the clutch, in which case it needs to be checked and adjusted.


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## cosmicbike (29 Jun 2022)

Tom B said:


> How would I know from the pully?
> 
> I can see the pully, but there is no free end at the back of the compressor as such so I can't see if it disengaged.
> 
> ...



I was going from knowledge on my V70, where you actually see the pulley and clutch engage and disengage from above/below. Maybe not the case on all cars..(it is 25 years old)


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## BianchiVirgin (29 Jun 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I was going from knowledge on my V70, where you actually see the pulley and clutch engage and disengage from above/below. Maybe not the case on all cars..(it is 25 years old)



Yeah, you should be able to hear and see it clicking in and out.


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## gbb (1 Jul 2022)

Yesterday, preparing my DILs 2006 Chevrolet Kalos for MOT today.
Replace one brake light
Tighten door strap mount.
Check fluids etc, top up as neccessary.
Oil badly wants changing...a bit of a worry because that will likely effect emissions.
Windscreen wipers might just pass.
One headlight buffed up, was very milky, now acceptable.
Will probably get an advisory for a small tack in the tyre. Been there for ages, im not taking it out.

Its a low mileage car but owned by someone from new who didnt look after it...and neither does my DIL tbh, its not in very good condition really.

3.30 will tell....


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## cosmicbike (1 Jul 2022)

The V70R is back on the drive NSF outer CV boot has just started to fail, enough to spread some grease around the rim. 36mm socket purchased, no danger of that nut coming undone on a 2ft bar. I have a big impact wrench coming that I hope will work, if 950NM won't do it then I'll take it to the garage!


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## Adam4868 (1 Jul 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> The V70R is back on the drive NSF outer CV boot has just started to fail, enough to spread some grease around the rim. 36mm socket purchased, no danger of that nut coming undone on a 2ft bar. I have a big impact wrench coming that I hope will work, if 950NM won't do it then I'll take it to the garage!


Blowtorch 😁


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## gbb (1 Jul 2022)

gbb said:


> Yesterday, preparing my DILs 2006 Chevrolet Kalos for MOT today.
> Replace one brake light
> Tighten door strap mount.
> Check fluids etc, top up as neccessary.
> ...



Despite its mildly scruffy state overall, MOTer said it was mechanically quite sound.
Advisory on front pads, MOT passed 
People have got so used to stupid car prices, he was fairly taken aback when i told him i only paid £600 for it.


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## cosmicbike (1 Jul 2022)

Adam4868 said:


> Blowtorch 😁



Maybe, though TBH I have a DeWalt DCF899 impact wrench coming to have a go tomorrow/Sunday, and if that won't shift it my local garage can change the boot for me!


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## gbb (2 Jul 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> Maybe, though TBH I have a DeWalt DCF899 impact wrench coming to have a go tomorrow/Sunday, and if that won't shift it my local garage can change the boot for me!



I remember undoing the hub nut on a transit van once, that was a big size. I snapped a colleagues 1/2 Snap On breaker bar trying. He wasnt best pleased 
Good luck...


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## cosmicbike (2 Jul 2022)

gbb said:


> I remember undoing the hub nut on a transit van once, that was a big size. I snapped a colleagues 1/2 Snap On breaker bar trying. He wasnt best pleased
> Good luck...



I was expecting an issue. No joy on the lowest setting, wound up to level 3 and it was off in seconds. Awesome tool, bit overkill for wheel nuts but should be helpful for getting the suspension apart on the 240 also.


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## Phaeton (2 Jul 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I was expecting an issue. No joy on the lowest setting, wound up to level 3 and it was off in seconds. Awesome tool, bit overkill for wheel nuts but should be helpful for getting the suspension apart on the 240 also.



Make sure you use good quality 6 sided sockets not 12's


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## cosmicbike (3 Jul 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Make sure you use good quality 6 sided sockets not 12's



Learnt that some time ago. I tend to go mid-range with Bahco stuff, but the last set of ratchet spanners were Halfords Advanced and I've found them to be really quite good. The 36mm impact socket is from the same range.


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## Tom B (3 Jul 2022)

Clutch done last week by clutch man.
I then found then radiators had sold out. eBay to the rescue From a radiator specialist with a 5yr warranty. It's not exactly the same as the OEM but it's equally crappy and fits.

Annoyingly the bottom hose was help on with a spring clip, clearly these are put on before the radiator is installed as there was no was to get a tool onto the clip. It would have made the job a bit easier.

It's a bit of a naff design as the air con radiator sits Infront of the cooling rad. As I split them off the gap between was filled with leaves and crap. I need to remember to clean that.

Refilling was hard work it wouldn't warm up past 75° to burp, but we got there in the end with a brick and a few revs. Not sure I got all the old blue coolant out as my red coolant has gone yellowish. So I'll change it again in a couple of weeks.


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## fossyant (23 Aug 2022)

MrsF's Qashqai has been clunking when in lower gears, bit like a thud. The lower dogbone/gearbox stabilising bar had worn - the rubber bushing was split. Ordered a new one for £20, and fitted it in minutes. Did need the piece of box section steel on the end of the breaker bar to act as a 3 foot breaker to undo the two bolts.


----------



## chriswoody (30 Sep 2022)

The electric windows on the Golf have been playing up recently and I was being a bit lazy about getting around to looking at it until last week when the wife mentioned after trying unsuccessfully to get the passenger window to go up, there was a loud bang and the glass slid down into the door. I managed to get the glass back up and fixed into place temporarily whilst I looked into it. Seems the window regulator is to blame and on Golf 4's it comes as part of the inner door panel, which means agro and money. A bit more research revealed you can actually get the regulator separate for just 20 Euro's, so not entirely convinced I was ordering the right thing I put an order in from an online motor factors. 

So today I stripped out the door which is a colossal pain in the backside, so many clips, electrical connectors and fittings and of course each fitting is different, Torx 20, 30 and PH2 are just some of the sizes we found! First the inner panel comes off, then undo the window clamps through a tiny circular hatch, then remove the metal inner door panel. 






The actual regulator is riveted to the inside of the metal panel, which need drilling out to release it. luckily though the new one comes with threaded inserts and bolts which just bolt through the original rivet holes. The old broken VW one below shows the metal clamps that should be attached to the white plastic runners on the regulator, as well as the window. The plastic has exploded though, leaving the clamps floating free of the regulator.






Popping everything back together was just as hellish, there where several times when I wished I had three hands. I was quite relieved after re-assembly to find that it all worked seamlessly, we have a working passenger window again. I then stripped down the drivers door side to investigate why that one was also playing up. 






Basically the same issue as the other side, with a broken plastic runner no longer attached to the metal window clamp, however, the second clamp was still working on this side, so the window was still working after a fashion. I haven't bought a new regulator for this side yet, because I hadn't realised this one was also broken, but a new one is on order. Using plastic for this is VW cost cutting at it's finest, the new replacement regulator uses a cast metal part for both the clamp and the carrier though, so a good upgrade.


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## fossyant (30 Sep 2022)

Got a job to do on mine - I've LED replacement bulbs in the stop/tail but noticed one wasn't very bright. First job, pop the lights off, open up and squirt with brake cleaner on the contacts. If that doesn't work, new bulbs.


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## MrGrumpy (30 Sep 2022)

chriswoody said:


> The electric windows on the Golf have been playing up recently and I was being a bit lazy about getting around to looking at it until last week when the wife mentioned after trying unsuccessfully to get the passenger window to go up, there was a loud bang and the glass slid down into the door. I managed to get the glass back up and fixed into place temporarily whilst I looked into it. Seems the window regulator is to blame and on Golf 4's it comes as part of the inner door panel, which means agro and money. A bit more research revealed you can actually get the regulator separate for just 20 Euro's, so not entirely convinced I was ordering the right thing I put an order in from an online motor factors.
> 
> So today I stripped out the door which is a colossal pain in the backside, so many clips, electrical connectors and fittings and of course each fitting is different, Torx 20, 30 and PH2 are just some of the sizes we found! First the inner panel comes off, then undo the window clamps through a tiny circular hatch, then remove the metal inner door panel.
> 
> ...



Did a similar job on my Disco 4 , but it was the central locking. Fairly easy to strip down the door on mine. However plenty stuff with stupids clips which can break. Got the other door to do. It putting it off as has planned to get rid of the car .


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## Tom B (30 Sep 2022)

chriswoody said:


> So today I stripped out the door which is a colossal pain in the backside.



My single most hated "car job" is stripping off a door. Along with possibly doing anything on top of the pedalbox.

Im not a fan of interior trim jobs really. I need to strip out the centre console from my i40 to get at the back of the electric handbrake switch which is loose.

All in I can't see the attraction of the electric handbrake.

My mate had an old bubble shape fester that the window kept dropping on. After a few months of getting a wet arse we used tiger seal to stick the glass up.


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## Gunk (30 Sep 2022)

Tom B said:


> I can't see the attraction of the electric handbrake.


I’ve got a Golf with an electric hand brake and BMW with a regular hand brake, I’ll take electric all day long


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## MrGrumpy (30 Sep 2022)

Gunk said:


> I’ve got a Golf with an electric hand brake and BMW with a regular hand brake, I’ll take electric all day long



£1500 to fix my electromechanical handbrake on my Disco4 due to a ham fisted back street mechanic . You live and learn


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## Tom B (1 Oct 2022)

Gunk said:


> I’ve got a Golf with an electric hand brake and BMW with a regular hand brake, I’ll take electric all day long



Go on... Sell it to me?

I just don't feel I have the control I do with a propper brake. I'm the type that puts the handbrake on for a hill start or a red light.

It's good practice anyway, but I always point the wheels to the kerb on a gradient with the electric.


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## Tom B (1 Oct 2022)

MrGrumpy said:


> £1500 to fix my electromechanical handbrake on my Disco4 due to a ham fisted back street mechanic . You live and learn



Luckily mine wind back with a big hex key in the back of the caliper and it all seems pretty simple. Then again £1500 would buy me a third of the car let alone a couple of calipers.


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## fossyant (1 Oct 2022)

Fixed the bulb issue. Brake cleaner on contacts and a gentle scrape has the bulb back to full brightness.


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## chriswoody (1 Oct 2022)

Tom B said:


> My single most hated "car job" is stripping off a door. Along with possibly doing anything on top of the pedalbox.
> 
> Im not a fan of interior trim jobs really. I need to strip out the centre console from my i40 to get at the back of the electric handbrake switch which is loose.
> 
> ...



I know, it's an absolute pain trying to work out where all the hidden screws and clips are, all I can say is I'm glad Youtube exists, I watched a couple of videos that helped to clarify the process.


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## cosmicbike (1 Oct 2022)

After getting the 1998 V70R through it's MOT with a clean bill of health, not even an advisory, it was time to give the 1993 240 estate some attention. My MOT man recommended I replace the front brake hoses, so I ordered a pair and fitted them a couple of weeks ago. Of course, being Volvo, it has 2 on each side at the front, so another pair ordered and replaced today. The rears are corroded n the ferrules so I think I'll swap them out too.


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## Jameshow (1 Oct 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> After getting the 1998 V70R through it's MOT with a clean bill of health, not even an advisory, it was time to give the 1993 240 estate some attention. My MOT man recommended I replace the front brake hoses, so I ordered a pair and fitted them a couple of weeks ago. Of course, being Volvo, it has 2 on each side at the front, so another pair ordered and replaced today. The rears are corroded n the ferrules so I think I'll swap them out too.



Stop it!! - you've made me look at Volvo estates in eBay!!!!


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## Gunk (1 Oct 2022)

Tom B said:


> Go on... Sell it to me?
> 
> I just don't feel I have the control I do with a propper brake. I'm the type that puts the handbrake on for a hill start or a red light.
> 
> It's good practice anyway, but I always point the wheels to the kerb on a gradient with the electric.



I haven’t got shares in an electric handbrake company so I’m selling anything, but with the DSG gearbox it just works perfectly, also it never creeps forward in traffic.


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## Jameshow (1 Oct 2022)

Gunk said:


> I haven’t got shares in an electric handbrake company so I’m selling anything, but with the DSG gearbox it just works perfectly, also it never creeps forward in traffic.



DSG is a auto gear box so is a powershift.... 

VW electric brake Vs ford electric brake.......🤣🤣


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## Gunk (1 Oct 2022)

Jameshow said:


> DSG is a auto gear box so is a powershift....
> 
> VW electric brake Vs ford electric brake.......🤣🤣



I can’t compare, last Ford I drove was a Mk 2 Capri 3.0 about 35 years ago


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## Jameshow (1 Oct 2022)

Gunk said:


> I can’t compare, last Ford I drove was a Mk 2 Capri 3.0 about 35 years ago



Powershift are rubbish!!! DSG are lovely!


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## gbb (1 Oct 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Stop it!! - you've made me look at Volvo estates in eBay!!!!



I say this tongue in cheek, I have no love or hate for Volvos, I only ever drove one...and was genuinely surprised how agricultural it felt.
This wasn't an old bottom range car, it was a directors car, one of those barge like estates, mid 1990s, possibly an 850 or similar. I wondered how a director drove it, it really did seem agricultural in feel. Lovely exterior and interior, just a strange driving experience


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## Jameshow (1 Oct 2022)

gbb said:


> I say this tongue in cheek, I have no love or hate for Volvos, I only ever drove one...and was genuinely surprised how agricultural it felt.
> This wasn't an old bottom range car, it was a directors car, one of those barge like estates, mid 1990s, possibly an 850 or similar. I wondered how a director drove it, it really did seem agricultural in feel. Lovely exterior and interior, just a strange driving experience



I think that's part of the appeal.... 

They handle like nothing else apart from a Tory gov unwilling to u turn! 

The 850 was a different car to the older 240 / 740 / 940 series car which is probably the car your thinking of. 

The 850 became the V70 much more driver centred (for a Volvo not compared to a BMW) and was a revolution being fwd and using a legendary 5cyl engine turbo charged in the T5 and R versions.


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## cosmicbike (1 Oct 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Stop it!! - you've made me look at Volvo estates in eBay!!!!



I have a Capri in the garage too. Likely to find a Volvo cheaper nowadays..


gbb said:


> I say this tongue in cheek, I have no love or hate for Volvos, I only ever drove one...and was genuinely surprised how agricultural it felt.
> This wasn't an old bottom range car, it was a directors car, one of those barge like estates, mid 1990s, possibly an 850 or similar. I wondered how a director drove it, it really did seem agricultural in feel. Lovely exterior and interior, just a strange driving experience





Jameshow said:


> I think that's part of the appeal....
> 
> They handle like nothing else apart from a Tory gov unwilling to u turn!
> 
> ...



My 93 Torslanda is the last of the 240 series. The only electric thing in it is the heated seats, and it is a wonderful car to plod about in, drives like a boat but yes, agricultural. That said, the 4 cylinder red block is renowned and at 185k mine is not yet run in. Fast forward 5 years, and the V70 is a world apart. Turbocharged 5 cylinder white block lump which is very tunable though mine is stock at 240bhp and will stay that way as the auto 'box won't take much more. Still has the most comfortable seats ever, is sensibly quick and eats miles with ease.


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## Jameshow (1 Oct 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I have a Capri in the garage too. Likely to find a Volvo cheaper nowadays..
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Never had a 240... 

Had a 440 best forgotten....

940 possible best car I've had (= to VW caravelle) 

850 2.0 dull gutless and totally unbustable. 

V70 T5 and D5 Great cars, D5 as drivable at the T5 tbh with more torque. 

XC90 d5 163 and 185, 185 with newer auto box transformed the drive. Amazing for long distance journeys. Most comfortable car I've owned. 

Various heaps in between inc... 

Audi A4 2.6 estate lovely car. 

Reliant scimitar crazy impulse buy great fun though.


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## DRM (1 Oct 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I have a Capri in the garage too. Likely to find a Volvo cheaper nowadays..
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Had a 260 GLE Estate years ago, was one hell of a Q car, it would set of from the lights and XR3i, Golf GTi and the other hot hatches couldn’t shake off this huge Swedish barge, 3.0 V6 in it with overdrive, it didn’t even notice the big white shed on wheels when it was on the back, in fact it was keeping up with a 2.0 Mondeo going through Pateley Bridge towards Harrogate, up the hill with the BWSOW attached, it was very comfortable, actually built in Sweden too, unlike the 240’s that were built in Belgium I believe, the 850T5R’s grandad you could say


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## cosmicbike (2 Oct 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Never had a 240...
> 
> Had a 440 best forgotten....
> 
> ...



My first Volvo was a 1998 V70, rather ploddish 2.5 10v. Followed up by a lovely 163bhp D5 XC90 Ocean Race which I sold to move house. The later 205bhp XC90 I bought new on a whim, so much quicker but a silly purchase if I'm honest.


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## Jameshow (2 Oct 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> My first Volvo was a 1998 V70, rather ploddish 2.5 10v. Followed up by a lovely 163bhp D5 XC90 Ocean Race which I sold to move house. The later 205bhp XC90 I bought new on a whim, so much quicker but a silly purchase if I'm honest.



Nice the one I never had along with a v70r which are stupid money these days!! £10k


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## fossyant (10 Oct 2022)

I think the Aygo needs a new clutch. Changes fine, no slipping etc, but as I was moving the car tonight, it started screaching when the clutch was fully depressed. Slight noise with the clutch up but out of gear. No noises driving or when clutch partially depressed. Sounds like the clutch release bearing, but as the price differential between just a bearing and a repacement clutch is minimal - £40 bearing or £100 clutch kit, and it still needs all removing, might just stump up the extra as the labour cost will be similar. Expecting about £400 - 3-4 hours labour and £100 for the clutch kit. I shall see what the garage says. Something always 'breaks' after my son's been using it for a while.  I did check the dash cam footage, and he's not been doing anything daft. PS I'm not crawling under a car in Autumn for many hours !


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## Sallar55 (11 Oct 2022)

Yesterday up to the garage to see about a torn steering gaitor on the vito. Understaffed but said can order it and have it in an hour, sent me out to pick up a gearbox rebuild. Told me I can fix it with the shop tools, going back next week to check tracking when less busy.😁


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## Hicky (18 Oct 2022)

XC70 is playing silly b#ggers. I've twice come out to the car over the past two weeks to a flat battery.
Jump started and off I go all hunky dory for a while without noticing any reason for the drain.....both times the car has sat for a few days.
The last time this happened I noticed the rear tailgate courtesy light was on so out I jumped and closed the boot....no change. Removed the lamp. Viola I think I've solved it. Unfortunately the microswitch is in the innards of the tailgate lid and lock mechanism.
Dilemma....do I piddle about with it to try to correct it or just accept I have no light in the boot?

Ps I've had a current clamp on the + feed and it's charging fine.


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## fossyant (18 Oct 2022)

Hicky said:


> XC70 is playing silly b#ggers. I've twice come out to the car over the past two weeks to a flat battery.
> Jump started and off I go all hunky dory for a while without noticing any reason for the drain.....both times the car has sat for a few days.
> The last time this happened I noticed the rear tailgate courtesy light was on so out I jumped and closed the boot....no change. Removed the lamp. Viola I think I've solved it. Unfortunately the microswitch is in the innards of the tailgate lid and lock mechanism.
> Dilemma....do I piddle about with it to try to correct it or just accept I have no light in the boot?
> ...



Can you get near any contacts - worth giving it a squirt with brake cleaner - it's great at cleaning electrical contacts.


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## Adam4868 (18 Oct 2022)

Hicky said:


> XC70 is playing silly b#ggers. I've twice come out to the car over the past two weeks to a flat battery.
> Jump started and off I go all hunky dory for a while without noticing any reason for the drain.....both times the car has sat for a few days.
> The last time this happened I noticed the rear tailgate courtesy light was on so out I jumped and closed the boot....no change. Removed the lamp. Viola I think I've solved it. Unfortunately the microswitch is in the innards of the tailgate lid and lock mechanism.
> Dilemma....do I piddle about with it to try to correct it or just accept I have no light in the boot?
> ...


Have you checked your battery isn't on the way out ?


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## Hicky (18 Oct 2022)

I'm almost sure the light is the issue. I had the tailgate window smashed 12 months ago and the replacement tech didn't remove the lower trim to cleanout the glass detritus which has always niggled me however the sun aged abs screams I'll snap every time I consider touching it.
I wonder if that could be another or is the issue down in the depths of the mechanism.


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## Sallar55 (24 Oct 2022)

Fitted swivel seats was going to use the ones out of the old van , never went to plan as they changed all the seat fixing centres on the newer one . Had to reroute all the seat electrics as well. 😩


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## Jameshow (24 Oct 2022)

I fitted a VW T5 double swivel seat to my old Renault master and still had a walk through. 

Not done it to my current transit. 

No need too on a green Goddess!


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## nagden (28 Oct 2022)

I am having a nightmare with my 2004 Peugeot 206 1.4 hdi. After some starting problems I fitted a new starter motor. All went well then the battery light comes on. Test the output with a multimeter almost zero. Fit a refurbished alternator only to find it is producing zero volts. I even bought a new multimeter because I couldn't understand it. So now it is back to the shop.


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## Hicky (28 Oct 2022)

nagden said:


> I am having a nightmare with my 2004 Peugeot 206 1.4 hdi. After some starting problems I fitted a new starter motor. All went well then the battery light comes on. Test the output with a multimeter almost zero. Fit a refurbished alternator only to find it is producing zero volts. I even bought a new multimeter because I couldn't understand it. So now it is back to the shop.



Can you spinup the alternator to see if it outputs voltage?


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## nagden (28 Oct 2022)

Hicky said:


> Can you spinup the alternator to see if it outputs voltage?



Yes I have done that. Strangely unlike everything else in the car the terminals are easy to access. With the car running I have tested the alternator, positive lead of the meter to the alternator terminal and negative to earth. It reads zero. I did spin the old one up with an electric drill and that did give a minimal reading. 
Thanks for your reply.


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## Jameshow (28 Oct 2022)

Is you battery ok? 

If your battery is flat or partially flat it won't produce and inducing current to start the alternator producing current. 

Unlike a dynamo which is a permanent magnet arrangement which will produce current if simply spinned.


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## nagden (28 Oct 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Is you battery ok?
> 
> If your battery is flat or partially flat it won't produce and inducing current to start the alternator producing current.
> 
> Unlike a dynamo which is a permanent magnet arrangement which will produce current if simply spinned.



Thanks. I have not come across that. I have two batteries on the go at the moment and would say they have never been fully charged. I have put one on charge overnight and will try it out tomorrow. Thanks again.


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## midlife (28 Oct 2022)

I'm sure once the alternator is spinning the current for the field windings comes from the alternator itself via the diode trio?


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## nagden (28 Oct 2022)

midlife said:


> I'm sure once the alternator is spinning the current for the field windings comes from the alternator itself via the diode trio?



Thanks. I am at a loss. I will look at it over the weekend. If no success it is back to the spares shop.


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## Hicky (31 Oct 2022)

This weeks job is to remove the A pillar trim on my Volvo, the cloth trim is loose and floppy(a common thing). I have fake leather and spray glue, let’s see how it goes.
Looking on other forums it seems like a straightforward job.


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## nagden (31 Oct 2022)

nagden said:


> Thanks. I have not come across that. I have two batteries on the go at the moment and would say they have never been fully charged. I have put one on charge overnight and will try it out tomorrow. Thanks again.



A quick update. Took the car to the car spares shop. They tested everything and concluded that the alternator was us. I will pick up a replacement Wednesday.


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## fossyant (31 Oct 2022)

New pads time for MrsF's car - they are OK, but as we're coming to winter and she's about to get 4 new tyres, might as well get it done. I've just picked up Bosch ones - was a little more expensive than no-name stuff. Picked up a tin of waxoyl under coat and gave the Aygo, jacking points/sil given a quick coat, and the same with my car as it needed a quick refresh. Very quick job considering it's so mild outside. Taped off the Aygo bodywork and a couple of coats applied, tape off and all done in about 15 minutes.


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## Hicky (1 Nov 2022)

Update, one A pillar is done. It is a fairly straightforward job but tedious. LOTS of scraping and sanding. Once the material is off there is some fibre wad which is bonded to the plastic....that had to be filed/sanded to achieve a good surface to glue to.
Spray glue, it went everywhere despite being careful At first I thought the finish was going to be awful. Once the glue had dried overnight the uniform surface I hoped for....it isn't quite the beige I was looking for but I can replace it in the future if my efforts don't last long.
Cost,£8 for the material and £4 for a tin of spray glue


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## fossyant (1 Nov 2022)

Front pads replaced so far. Would have been a quick job until the slider pin bolt head snapped off. Looked everywhere - It's only a M8 bolt, but is a fine thread. Eurocar parts, GSF Motor Parts, NISSAN and even screwfix and Machine Mart. Only Euro could order them in so they have ordered for 3pm.

Dug around in all the various car bolts, loads of M8, none with a fine enough thread. On arriving home, hmm, check the bike parts tray - blooming square taper BB bolt was just the job and it's high tensile steel so will be fine. Fractionally shorter, but it will be fine - £40 otherwise for a full kit of bolts, rubbers and slider pins.  Lunch hour wasted chasing a bolt ! Rears to do after work, then collect Aygo from garage (clutch bearing/clutch replacement).


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## fossyant (1 Nov 2022)

Aygo is back. Clutch Kit just short of £100 and labour £230 - they also freed up the clutch arm. It's super light in action now. Not bad for £330 all in (incl VAT).

Whilst I was there I asked if they had any 'spare' brake caliper slider bolts, they did and gave me two - a 1mm pitch (which is the correct one) and a 1.25mm. No charge. Happier as this is a little longer than a bike BB bolt. 

Rear pads next but the weather gods mean it won't be this evening !


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## cosmicbike (1 Nov 2022)

Grrr. Grumbly grumbly on the front of the V70R with the dreaded wheel bearing drone. Was hoping to press it into my daily driver and take the 240 off the road to refresh all the rear suspension, but looks like I'll have to do these first. Thankfully the bearing/hub is a one piece bolt in assembly, bit of a PITA to do and at £150 a side not cheap. Mind you, when I see my work colleagues chucking £600+ a month on PCP plans etc for a car they'll never own it seems good value.


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## Jameshow (1 Nov 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> Grrr. Grumbly grumbly on the front of the V70R with the dreaded wheel bearing drone. Was hoping to press it into my daily driver and take the 240 off the road to refresh all the rear suspension, but looks like I'll have to do these first. Thankfully the bearing/hub is a one piece bolt in assembly, bit of a PITA to do and at £150 a side not cheap. Mind you, when I see my work colleagues chucking £600+ a month on PCP plans etc for a car they'll never own it seems good value.



V70r nice beast! P1 or 2??


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## cosmicbike (1 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> V70r nice beast! P1 or 2??



P80, 1998


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## Jameshow (1 Nov 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> P80, 1998



P1 nice. 

Less lardy than the mk2


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## Hicky (4 Nov 2022)

Lookers Stockport Volvo....I phoned the spare dept for a side repeater, 5 mins later after much background waffle n chatter he comes back on to say they don't do them anymore.....when I questioned it I was met with the response well m8 it is a 20 year old car!
eeerrrrm no m8 you need to work on your maths. 
Seems like unless you have a sparkly new Volvo they aren't interested. I phoned a Volvo Indy a few mins from Stockport and viola "yeah we can get you one no problem, I wouldn't recommend a second hand one from the scrappy as the clips are known to be brittle and probably wouldn't last very long so go OE on this." 
That's better!


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## fossyant (4 Nov 2022)

After the new pads on the Qashqai, we've just fitted 4 Michelin Cross Climate 2's. Bit spendy , but got £64 off and a free Lego Technic model !

Looking forward to whizzing past all the pretend 4x4's if we get any snow.


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## Hicky (4 Nov 2022)

fossyant said:


> After the new pads on the Qashqai, we've just fitted 4 Michelin Cross Climate 2's. Bit spendy , but got £64 off and a free Lego Technic model !
> 
> Looking forward to whizzing past all the pretend 4x4's if we get any snow.



Is a Qashqai a 4x4?


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## fossyant (4 Nov 2022)

Hicky said:


> Is a Qashqai a 4x4?



Nope, we'll just whizz past the 4x4 with big fat low profiles. There is a 4x4 model but it's rare.


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## cosmicbike (4 Nov 2022)

Hicky said:


> Lookers Stockport Volvo....I phoned the spare dept for a side repeater, 5 mins later after much background waffle n chatter he comes back on to say they don't do them anymore.....when I questioned it I was met with the response well m8 it is a 20 year old car!
> eeerrrrm no m8 you need to work on your maths.
> Seems like unless you have a sparkly new Volvo they aren't interested. I phoned a Volvo Indy a few mins from Stockport and viola "yeah we can get you one no problem, I wouldn't recommend a second hand one from the scrappy as the clips are known to be brittle and probably wouldn't last very long so go OE on this."
> That's better!



FRF Swansea will get you anything you need, and usually well priced too.


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## Bonefish Blues (5 Nov 2022)

fossyant said:


> After the new pads on the Qashqai, we've just fitted 4 Michelin Cross Climate 2's. Bit spendy , but got £64 off and a free Lego Technic model !
> 
> Looking forward to whizzing past all the pretend 4x4's if we get any snow.



For anyone else looking to do this, Hankook Kinergy 4S2. As good. Are cheaper.

https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm


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## Jameshow (5 Nov 2022)

I like toyo tyres great grip and good prices. .. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/25559966...ar=555541103408&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


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## fossyant (5 Nov 2022)

Bonefish Blues said:


> For anyone else looking to do this, Hankook Kinergy 4S2. As good. Are cheaper.
> 
> https://www.tyrereviews.com/Article/2022-Tyre-Reviews-All-Season-Tyre-Test.htm



We were going for the Avon's as they were cheap, but they are on back order and they don't know when they will get them. The offer we got reduced the tyres to about £130 each


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## Hicky (5 Nov 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> FRF Swansea will get you anything you need, and usually well priced too.



Thanks, I’ve gone online aftermarket for the part at £14, the car is rough but the oily bits work well. My aim is to get it to 300k.


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## bikingdad90 (5 Nov 2022)

Not a fan of Hankook tyres; from personal experience when they are worn down to around 4mm I find that they start to slip and can’t grip when starting off resulting in some awful shudder in the cabin. 

Falken tyres have been a mixed bag for me, I don’t know if it’s my tyre size but I’ve found them prone to punctures or getting a slit in the sidewall. Happened to me three times now and I’m only driving a scenic!

I’ve decided when it comes to tyres it’s best to pay out for premium and focus on wet grip most.


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## fossyant (5 Nov 2022)

I think tyres can vary. I had a set of Maxxis and 3 of the 4 developed slits on the side walls within 4 years and they still had 5mm tread.


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## Bonefish Blues (5 Nov 2022)

fossyant said:


> We were going for the Avon's as they were cheap, but they are on back order and they don't know when they will get them. The offer we got reduced the tyres to about £130 each



Good call there - the Avons are plumb last in many tests, and if there's a good deal to be had on the CC2s, then a great buy.


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## nagden (5 Nov 2022)

J


nagden said:


> A quick update. Took the car to the car spares shop. They tested everything and concluded that the alternator was us. I will pick up a replacement Wednesday.



Quick update on the alternator nightmare. I fitted another one which made zero difference. After checking everything without a result I was resigned to putting the car into a garage. I spoke to a mechanic in the bar this morning. He explained that the small plug next to the positive terminal comes from the ignition and activates the alternator and that they were well known for failing. He advised me to cut it off and put on a small terminal and connect it with that. He even offered to help me if I couldn't sort it. Good outcome for the price of a coffee.


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## DRM (5 Nov 2022)

That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry


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## Jameshow (5 Nov 2022)

DRM said:


> That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry



That's a dynamo you describe an alternator works differently iirc.


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## midlife (5 Nov 2022)

My Impreza had some sort of "smart alternator" which had a variable output. If the car had a sulk it would output zero! Seemed OK if I had the air con on all the time as that seemed to wake it up.


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## CXRAndy (5 Nov 2022)

DRM said:


> That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry



Not anymore, a lot of alternators are actively controlled by the ECM. Pulsed width modulation to control amount of charging


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## fossyant (5 Nov 2022)

DRM said:


> That is ridiculous as a design, an alternator is a dumb part, the engine makes it turn, therefore electricity comes out of the other end and charges the battery, it doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that, other then a diode to stop the electric going the other way and a voltage regulator to prevent the battery boiling dry



The Aygo's alternator failed - well the diodes did, so it was trying to be a motor with the engine off - passed the charge tests, but you could watch the battery voltage drop ovr a short time. Started draining the battery once it failed. Took a bit to diagnose, as I could hear a faint hum, then traced this to a warm alternator...


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## CXRAndy (5 Nov 2022)

My F150 has developed a weeping power steering hose. So in light of its age and need of an overall. I've ordered full workshop manual from the states. I ve sorted all the part and numbers I need. So I will be changing coolant hoses, serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump, transmission filter and cooler lines (reports of fracture). All the fluids, oils and brakes. 

Just over $800 in parts and whatever the fluids cost


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## BianchiVirgin (5 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> That's a dynamo you describe an alternator works differently iirc.



Nope. Dynamo is DC. Alternator is AC but basic functionality the same.


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## Jameshow (5 Nov 2022)

BianchiVirgin said:


> Nope. Dynamo is DC. Alternator is AC but basic functionality the same.



Functionally they both product electricity but the way they do so is different!


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## DRM (5 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> That's a dynamo you describe an alternator works differently iirc.



Was going to say one DC, the others AC, iirc an alternator provides an even current supply, same principle, basically a generator, but @BianchiVirgin beat me to it, but really all it has to do is charge the battery, nothing more there’s no need for a smart alternator to cock things up


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## Jameshow (5 Nov 2022)

DRM said:


> Was going to say one DC, the others AC, iirc an alternator provides an even current supply, same principle, basically a generator, but @BianchiVirgin beat me to it, but really all it has to do is charge the battery, nothing more there’s no need for a smart alternator to cock things up



You haven't been inside of a car designers head!!


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## DRM (5 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> You haven't been inside of a car designers head!!



I think designers of a lot of things really need to go and have a word with themselves


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## Tom B (5 Nov 2022)

The Lecky handbrake switch / auto brake switch has been loose since i got the car. Basically the Auto Brake momentary switch sticks due to the switchy bit being loose in the housing, if you dont spot it after you press it after a few mins it throws an error on the dash.

Had no intention of paying main stealer price for a new switch and scrappies / ebay wanted £50+ for some scabby examples.

Finally got around to popping out the trim, popping out the switch and was able to slip some glue and bit of plastic between the switch and the housing, then drove a hot pin through the plastics and snipped it off. Reassembled and it works a treat. I actually came out in profit as i found a grotty £5 note under the trim!

Next job is finding and curing an annoying rattle/run in the dash, hopfully it'll be a bundle of £20s rattling and identifying the knock on the front axle that i've let develop.

Then I need to get rid of the miss-matched ditchfinders fitted to the front.


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## Hicky (7 Nov 2022)

New colour matched material has arrived(I'm much happier with the shade), pics to follow of the A pillar when I have some time to do them.....side repeater due before Wednesday.


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## fossyant (7 Nov 2022)

The Aygo has been parked up for a month at an angle (one side higher) and we've a very tiny drop of water in the boot under the carpet (50p sized). It has chucked it down over this time though. These are all known to leak (C1 and 107 as well) and over the last year I've traced all the leak points (high level brake light, light body seals, boot seal and even the bump stops). Noticed the sealing on the 'leaky side' of the bump stop wasn't so good so resealed again, then ran some silicone sealant around the whole of the boot seal as you can get some water creep. Let's see how it goes - was only a 10 minute job.


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## Hicky (7 Nov 2022)

fossyant said:


> The Aygo has been parked up for a month at an angle (one side higher) and we've a very tiny drop of water in the boot under the carpet (50p sized). It has chucked it down over this time though. These are all known to leak (C1 and 107 as well) and over the last year I've traced all the leak points (high level brake light, light body seals, boot seal and even the bump stops). Noticed the sealing on the 'leaky side' of the bump stop wasn't so good so resealed again, then ran some silicone sealant around the whole of the boot seal as you can get some water creep. Let's see how it goes - was only a 10 minute job.



Check the weather report and put some tissue paper at known points and inspect when the rain dies off...it could narrow down the search.


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## fossyant (7 Nov 2022)

Hicky said:


> Check the weather report and put some tissue paper at known points and inspect when the rain dies off...it could narrow down the search.



It's just one point below the rear driver's side lamp and the water settles in part of the boot floor moulding, so either the bump stop or indeed the light seal - that will be next to check. The amount of water is tiny though, so the old talc trick may be needed.


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## midlife (7 Nov 2022)

There was a leak around the boot spoiler on my Impreza. The garage locked someone in the boot for half an hour while they used a hose pipe on the boot. 

Suffice to say it was one of the young lads in the boot with a torch and not the boss .


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## CXRAndy (7 Nov 2022)

midlife said:


> There was a leak around the boot spoiler on my Impreza. The garage locked someone in the boot for half an hour while they used a hose pipe on the boot.
> 
> Suffice to say it was one of the young lads in the boot with a torch and not the boss .



Common leaks are around the tail light clusters. I did the same, but folded the rear seats down for access. Water was seeping in through the bolt holes on the lights. I applied silicon to these and all other mounting holes. Problem solved


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## fossyant (7 Nov 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> Common leaks are around the tail light clusters. I did the same, but folded the rear seats down for access. Water was seeping in through the bolt holes on the lights. I applied silicon to these and all other mounting holes. Problem solved



Yup, been watching those too. Had a reent mis-fire on my car recently, traced down to poor earth connection in the rear light cluster/loom as the car stands unused for ages, so you get some internal body sweatting in the boot. Older car but all canbus, and the earth for the fuel pump comes via the lights. All sorted now, brake cleaner, and WD 40.


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## CXRAndy (8 Nov 2022)

fossyant said:


> Yup, been watching those too. Had a reent mis-fire on my car recently, traced down to poor earth connection in the rear light cluster/loom as the car stands unused for ages, so you get some internal body sweatting in the boot. Older car but all canbus, and the earth for the fuel pump comes via the lights. All sorted now, brake cleaner, and WD 40.



My Impreza turbo was brand new 1997. kept it 11 years. Ruined the car, got sucked into the modding scene after early 2000s when it was all the rage. Had the car up to 500bhp, just far too much power. Everything else that goes with twin plate clutch, straight cut PPG gearbox, suspension, brakes, ECU/mapping. The parts just went on and on. Gave te car away to the engine builder in the end. Blew the engine after another mapping company sent a rod or two through the crank case on the rolling road. Successfully sued them- pay out recompensed me fully- lost interest after that, so dropped out of Subaru.

The Impreza for functionality, 5 seater, decent boot, saloon with speed and rarity-back in 1997 was fantastic(apart from 23mpg)

It was like owning an early Tesla for street cred.


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## gbb (8 Nov 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> My Impreza turbo was brand new 1997. kept it 11 years. Ruined the car, got sucked into the modding scene after early 2000s when it was all the rage. Had the car up to 500bhp, just far too much power. Everything else that goes with twin plate clutch, straight cut PPG gearbox, suspension, brakes, ECU/mapping. The parts just went on and on. Gave te car away to the engine builder in the end. Blew the engine after another mapping company sent a rod or two through the crank case on the rolling road. Successfully sued them- pay out recompensed me fully- lost interest after that, so dropped out of Subaru.
> 
> The Impreza for functionality, 5 seater, decent boot, saloon with speed and rarity-back in 1997 was fantastic(apart from 23mpg)
> 
> It was like owning an early Tesla for street cred.



My SIL has a 2002 Imprezza WRX STI ProDrive, 320BHP iirc standard as the day it came out the factory, but its been off the road for maybe 7 years now. Its under covers but outside. I keep reminding him it's going to rot to oblivion but he is adamant its worth almost as much as he paid for it, even in it's current off road condition.
Cat, worth maybe £1500
Engine does need a rebuild but was functioning ok.
The Prodrive system, with its paperwork is probably worth £2k 
Even parted out, he thinks he could get near to what he paid for it, being at the time, top of the range.


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## fossyant (8 Nov 2022)

MOT passed for MrsF's car this morning - just checked on-line. Will go to collect it shortly.


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## midlife (8 Nov 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> My Impreza turbo was brand new 1997. kept it 11 years. Ruined the car, got sucked into the modding scene after early 2000s when it was all the rage. Had the car up to 500bhp, just far too much power. Everything else that goes with twin plate clutch, straight cut PPG gearbox, suspension, brakes, ECU/mapping. The parts just went on and on. Gave te car away to the engine builder in the end. Blew the engine after another mapping company sent a rod or two through the crank case on the rolling road. Successfully sued them- pay out recompensed me fully- lost interest after that, so dropped out of Subaru.
> 
> The Impreza for functionality, 5 seater, decent boot, saloon with speed and rarity-back in 1997 was fantastic(apart from 23mpg)
> 
> It was like owning an early Tesla for street cred.



Roger Clark Motorsport got my Bugeye to over 400 BHP with Methanol Injection mapped by Bob Rawle.

Then the subaru modding scene died a death and lots of people went over to big diesels with monster torque.


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## fossyant (8 Nov 2022)

midlife said:


> Roger Clark Motorsport got my Bugeye to over 400 BHP with Methanol Injection mapped by Bob Rawle.
> 
> Then the subaru modding scene died a death and lots of people went over to big diesels with monster torque.



Shush, don't let the electric car bunch let you hear things like this


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## CXRAndy (8 Nov 2022)

I never went methanol, did dabble with 102ron petrol. Mainly ran it on 99ron as it was dual mapped for two fuels 

I remember a few jumped onto BMW diesels, a few went down the Mercs A45 .

EVs now. So quick standard, no need to think about modifying. 

Even the Plaid Tesla's don't interest me . Alot of extra money for a second quicker to 60mph

If I was to get a particular car the Porsche Taycan is a beautiful car, especially in super strong colour like the lime green


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## Phaeton (8 Nov 2022)

Watched Top Gear last night a Pagani £3,300,000+ a Ferrari £330,00+ & a Porsche £150,000?, I must be getting old as all I could think was why? What really is the point of them, where can you use what they are capable of, impressive technology, but did nothing for me, is it just jealousy?


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## DRM (8 Nov 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Watched Top Gear last night a Pagani £3,300,000+ a Ferrari £330,00+ & a Porsche £150,000?, I must be getting old as all I could think was why? What really is the point of them, where can you use what they are capable of, impressive technology, but did nothing for me, is it just jealousy?



I must admit to thinking the same as they went along the Autobahn at 80 Km/h, an utter waste of money, the congestion was just as bad as any UK motorway, yet the bit were they went back at night looked utterly terrifying, iirc they were all at around the 170 Mph mark, the concentration levels required were unsustainable, so even in Germany, there’s no point having one


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## midlife (8 Nov 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> I never went methanol, did dabble with 102ron petrol. Mainly ran it on 99ron as it was dual mapped for two fuels
> 
> I remember a few jumped onto BMW diesels, a few went down the Mercs A45 .
> 
> ...


Just out of curiosity were you on Scoobynet?


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## CXRAndy (8 Nov 2022)

Yes I used to use Scoobynet. Haven't been on for years.

My engine builder/tuner API engines


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## CXRAndy (8 Nov 2022)

DRM said:


> I must admit to thinking the same as they went along the Autobahn at 80 Km/h, an utter waste of money, the congestion was just as bad as any UK motorway, yet the bit were they went back at night looked utterly terrifying, iirc they were all at around the 170 Mph mark, the concentration levels required were unsustainable, so even in Germany, there’s no point having one



I've done some quick speeds on the autobahns on motorcycles. I've averaged 125mph for an hour and half. I must admit I was buzzing when we pulled into the service station.


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## midlife (8 Nov 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> Yes I used to use Scoobynet. Haven't been on for years.
> 
> My engine builder/tuner API engines



Small world, I still drop into Scoobynet but its a bit of a desert nowadays. 

David at API sorted out my jap gearbox after I smashed a couple of UK ones lol.


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## raleighnut (8 Nov 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> I've done some quick speeds on the autobahns on motorcycles. I've averaged 125mph for an hour and half. I must admit I was buzzing when we pulled into the service station.



My mate Graham had an FJ12, one year he went over to the Dutch TT then decided to visit an old girlfriend in Germany (she lived in Hanover*) and went via several 'Autobahns' and when he was back I asked him "What'll it do then" and he reckoned it was indicating 170 mph with more to come but that was 'quite quick enough' for him and my next question was "What does it feel like at full throttle" and he reckoned he had never found the throttle stop, it may have only been a hair away but the bike was accelerating more than adequately. Mind you the bike may have been 'got at' as he bought it from Chris Vincent's shop in Earl Shilton and apparently it was one of his 'toys' before he sold it so it would have had the restrictors removed at least if not 'tuned' beyond the 148bhp the standard motors could produce (at the time there was a 'gentlemen's agreement' that bikes were limited to 125bhp so Yamaha put a 'gate' in the plastic manifolds that stopped airflow but if you took the carbs off it was a matter of a couple of minutes with a Stanley Knife and a bit of sanding to remove them.

* When I met Kirsten she was working in a pub in Narborough (having come back from America with Graham after his father died) and when 'half drunk' punters would ask her "So where are you from then darling" she would reply "I'm from Hanover..........................Just like your Queen"


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## CXRAndy (9 Nov 2022)

My bike is the FJR1300


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## Hicky (9 Nov 2022)

A friend has just won an Aprilia rsv4 on one of them social media raffles, he’s not rode in about ten years….once legally on the road he went on and promptly put the fear into himself 🤣
I’m not sure how long it will last


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## fossyant (9 Nov 2022)

I have a feeling some of these now 'leccy car drivers' are paying a penance for driving planet burning cars/motorbikes in the past - just saying !


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## CXRAndy (9 Nov 2022)

Nothing like a bit of electric self flagellation


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## shep (10 Nov 2022)

Fitted electric power steering to the old van along with a Mk1 Golf Gti steering wheel.


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## Jameshow (15 Nov 2022)

VW transporter t5.1 140 passed mot yesterday....
Today losses power and flashing coil and em light?!! 

Drop off tomorrow at garage on way to train to Morcambe!


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## nagden (18 Nov 2022)

nagden said:


> J
> 
> 
> Quick update on the alternator nightmare. I fitted another one which made zero difference. After checking everything without a result I was resigned to putting the car into a garage. I spoke to a mechanic in the bar this morning. He explained that the small plug next to the positive terminal comes from the ignition and activates the alternator and that they were well known for failing. He advised me to cut it off and put on a small terminal and connect it with that. He even offered to help me if I couldn't sort it. Good outcome for the price of a coffee.



A further update on my alternator nightmare. I have finally enlisted the help of a mobile mechanic. He has tested the car every which way and did a diagnostic. Result found nothing only the alternator is not charging. He is going to take it away next week and give it a further check with a friend who is an auto electrician.


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## Jameshow (18 Nov 2022)

nagden said:


> A further update on my alternator nightmare. I have finally enlisted the help of a mobile mechanic. He has tested the car every which way and did a diagnostic. Result found nothing only the alternator is not charging. He is going to take it away next week and give it a further check with a friend who is an auto electrician.



If you have a volt meter you can easily check an alternator by seeing if the voltage goes up to 14.4-7v whilst running. It will be at about 12.5v when charged.


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## fossyant (18 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> If you have a volt meter you can easily check an alternator by seeing if the voltage goes up to 14.4-7v whilst running. It will be at about 12.5v when charged.



This above. Showed me the Aygo's alternator was charging, but we had a parasitic drain overnight. The volt metre showed the battery voltage drop little by little whilst the car was off. Some poking about under the bonnet, and I could hear a very faint hum. More poking about found a warm alternator. A diode had failed and it had effectively turned into a motor, but of course couldn't turn with the belt on. New alternator time.


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## Tom B (22 Nov 2022)

Went to visit the old man today and decided to take advantage of his drive and tools and able (ancient) assistance (in passing all the wrong tools) to change one of the track rod ends that was highlighted on the MOT in March and had developed into a knock.

Genuine part came in at £20.34 so wasn't worth faffing with the unknown nobranders. Was also handy that it was exactly the same size so could count the turns off and count the turns on to keep the tracking something like.

As usual all the tricky bits went fine and the easy bits turned (nice big accessable nut) turned out to be a PITA as did the wheel nuts that had been seemingly done up with a windygun for trucks. Why don't people but a bit of copper slip on the hub mating face to stop alloys sticking? Seems I need to buy a new size of single hex socket for the nuts on this car.

I'll get the other side when its in stock. Then get the tracking done and the ditchfinders swapped off.

And how the hell can the main stealers justify £10 per wheel nut!


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## nagden (24 Nov 2022)

nagden said:


> A further update on my alternator nightmare. I have finally enlisted the help of a mobile mechanic. He has tested the car every which way and did a diagnostic. Result found nothing only the alternator is not charging. He is going to take it away next week and give it a further check with a friend who is an auto electrician.



The nightmare continues. The mechanic took the car to his garage today. He could find nothing and thinks it is the fuse box or écu box. In which case it would not be viable to repair considering its age and mileage.


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## gavroche (24 Nov 2022)

I can't believe it! It must be a joke. I have just read that the government is going to introduce a seatbelt tax to all new cars from 2025. 
Apparently, their reason is that motorists will have to pay a tax to insure their safety when driving. 
Does that mean that there will be no more fatal accidents with cars made from 2025 because the new tax will prevent that?


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## bikingdad90 (24 Nov 2022)

@gavroche, it was a load of bollocks by top gear. 😂


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## Hicky (30 Nov 2022)

Damaged retaining clip for the A pillar ordered from Volvo(little plastic doobytwitchy)….£1.78 🤣
The inconsistent brake light failure diagnosed to dirty contacts on the rear side LED section…easy fix.
I wish all car issues were that easy.


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## Jameshow (30 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> VW transporter t5.1 140 passed mot yesterday....
> Today losses power and flashing coil and em light?!!
> 
> Drop off tomorrow at garage on way to train to Morcambe!



Car fixed egr valve replaced £488!


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## fossyant (30 Nov 2022)

Lots of car electrical issues are caused by age and contacts. Quite easily fixed with brake cleaner - it's the same stuff as electrical contact cleaner, but a fraction of the cost. Magic stuff TBH.


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## fossyant (30 Nov 2022)

Jameshow said:


> Car fixed egr valve replaced £488!



Oof 

Leccy drivers will be along shortly to say, now't to pay for theirs, until the battery fails in 10 years..£kkk Actually £488 is much less than a months lease of a Tesla or other lecy car.


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## Hicky (1 Dec 2022)

fossyant said:


> Lots of car electrical issues are caused by age and contacts. Quite easily fixed with brake cleaner - it's the same stuff as electrical contact cleaner, but a fraction of the cost. Magic stuff TBH.



I use it because contact clearer is readily available at work, bringing an aerosol home for a squirt then returning it is hardly corporate theft. But thanks for the heads up


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## CXRAndy (1 Dec 2022)

fossyant said:


> Oof
> 
> Leccy drivers will be along shortly to say, now't to pay for theirs, until the battery fails in 10 years..£kkk Actually £488 is much less than a months lease of a Tesla or other lecy car.



Eh? Weird way of looking at it.

My Brother in law has just traded in his VW Toucan/Toerag or something, Having spent the month before £3000 on an EGR and turbo on his die-sel. 
Then wasted money on a hybrid which he alleges to do 40 on the battery, which will be 20 miles range really. 

Should have gone full electric. 

Saving on running over 10 years will easily pay for my million mile battery replacement


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## mikeIow (1 Dec 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> Eh? Weird way of looking at it.
> 
> My Brother in law has just traded in his VW Toucan/Toerag or something, Having spent the month before £3000 on an EGR and turbo on his die-sel.
> Then wasted money on a hybrid which he alleges to do 40 on the battery, which will be 20 miles range really.
> ...


Very true.

We have a Kona EV: covered over 40,000 miles since June 2019 at an approximate cost of £600, thanks to being on Octopus Go.
Of course when the rates double (on our next annual update), so those costs will rise: maybe triple 🤷‍♂️

In my old XC60, that would have been £8-9k 😱

& yes, I do appreciate we are very lucky to have parking that suits this mode of transport, & had the capital to enable us to buy the car…..


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## Tom B (2 Dec 2022)

I agree with the comments about EV. There are a lot of people who just have a pathological dislike for them. Most of their Issues turn out to be bon issues. A mate has one and it's just like any other family car. He charges it once a week instead of filling it. He drives to family in Kent from Manchester a couple of times a year no issues.

I'd have one tomorrow, but the costs don't stack up for me. When you take in the whole life cost (not including battery replacement should it be needed) ICE worked out cheaper for me to about £2.20 a litre. That was when electric prices were about 12p KWH. So it'll be greater now and greater again when EVs pay VEL.

I simply don't do enough miles to make it worthwhile the capital costs of acquisition of a car and it's subsequent depreciation is a greater cost.

£488 is pretty much my fuel bill for a year!


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## Phaeton (2 Dec 2022)

Tom B said:


> £488 is pretty much my fuel bill for a year!



I honestly cannot comprehend spending that amount of money a month on a car especially one that you don't actually own, but then again I don't understand what drives a lot of people to do what they do, £1200 for a phone, I really don't get it.

But I do think car prices have accelerated exponentially compared with wages, in 2014 I bought a Rav4 with 93K on for £6,750, it was 7 years old, we've added another 53K on it in 8 years, if I now want to buy another 7 year old Rav4, if I can find one with less mileage than our currently have they are wanting £16-17K that's getting on nearly tripled in price, I know my salary hasn't increased anywhere near that in the last 8 years.


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## Tom B (2 Dec 2022)

Phaeton said:


> I honestly cannot comprehend spending that amount of money a month on a car especially one that you don't actually own, but then again I don't understand what drives a lot of people to do what they do, £1200 for a phone, I really don't get it.
> 
> But I do think car prices have accelerated exponentially compared with wages, in 2014 I bought a Rav4 with 93K on for £6,750, it was 7 years old, we've added another 53K on it in 8 years, if I now want to buy another 7 year old Rav4, if I can find one with less mileage than our currently have they are wanting £16-17K that's getting on nearly tripled in price, I know my salary hasn't increased anywhere near that in the last 8 years.



Are you me?

On the flip side Mrs B bought a second hand honda Jizz 6 years ago from the main stealers, I could sell it today for 95% of what we paid.

I suppose cars live longer these days, I've just bought a 110k 8year old i40 for £4.5k, 25 years ago, certainly 35years ago cars that age were fit for the bin. I'm a sucker for high mileage cars.

We're getting off topic but PCPs to me seem like the worst value ever to acquire the use of a car. Unless you value the new car reg on your drive. I've convinced several colleagues to ditch PCPs .


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## CXRAndy (2 Dec 2022)

Tom B said:


> Unless you value the new car reg on your drive



That's it in a nutshell.


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## fossyant (2 Dec 2022)

Tom B said:


> I agree with the comments about EV. There are a lot of people who just have a pathological dislike for them. Most of their Issues turn out to be bon issues. A mate has one and it's just like any other family car. He charges it once a week instead of filling it. He drives to family in Kent from Manchester a couple of times a year no issues.
> 
> I'd have one tomorrow, but the costs don't stack up for me. When you take in the whole life cost (not including battery replacement should it be needed) ICE worked out cheaper for me to about £2.20 a litre. That was when electric prices were about 12p KWH. So it'll be greater now and greater again when EVs pay VEL.
> 
> ...



I've said to my wife for over 10 years I might as well as get rid of my car (and it was 10 then) but it's the bike hauler, then ended up being used when I broke my spine for 5 years commutes, but it's back to not moving - took it out yesterday for about 30 miles to do some shopping just to give it a run as it hadn't moved in two weeks.

No point spending £500 a month (being economical here) for an EV, when maintenance and fuel on mine (excluding EV leccy) is less than £1,000 or £1,500 a year for an old car.

Neither of us do enough miles to justify the switch to EV, an I cycle to work. My car is used for 'hauling'.

I do wish I'd stumped up and got a first gen Zoe on a battery rental second hand when they were sub £8k. I was tempted, but the range wasn't enough to pop to the caravan and back (lack of chargers at the time, and still an issue).


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## Tom B (3 Dec 2022)

CXRAndy said:


> That's it in a nutshell.



Two new cars on the drive and bugger all in the fridge.

I was conscripted (well my day was donated to the food bank by my employer) a few years ago. Amazed me how many of the people collecting their big free Christmas food parcel (Christmas on Jesus) came in a) a car and b) a car under 5yrs old.


Anyways were digressing

@fossyant likewise, mine is essentially a holiday hauler. The only reason I got this car was to fit in the new bigger tent and extra child. It does about 40% of its miles in three weeks in July. I can usually make a tank of the last of summer diesel last from mid October to the end of Feb when we usually go away and it does 300miles in a week.


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## Hicky (4 Dec 2022)

Go on any new build estate and you often see the cars costing the same as the mortgage….to me it’s insane economics.


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## cosmicbike (4 Dec 2022)

I did the new car thing once, but having worked hard saved hard paid cash. Sold 2 years on at great loss and never did it again. I won't include my motorhome in that which was also new, but sensible given the tiny used vs new variation.

Anyway, on topic, the £720 Volvo 240 estate (which was bought as my daily to afford the motorhome) needs new trailing arm bushes, since the old shells have rusted out. Apparently a pig of a job, I have the bits and once I get some time I'll get them done, might tighten up the boat like ride a bit, not really😄


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## Gunk (4 Dec 2022)

Phaeton said:


> But I do think car prices have accelerated exponentially compared with wages, in 2014 I bought a Rav4 with 93K on for £6,750, it was 7 years old, we've added another 53K on it in 8 years, if I now want to buy another 7 year old Rav4, if I can find one with less mileage than our currently have they are wanting £16-17K that's getting on nearly tripled in price, I know my salary hasn't increased anywhere near that in the last 8 years.



Over the last few years they have shot up but, you tend to get a lot more standard kit. We bought Mrs Gunks Golf GTD new in 2015 and with a few extra bits and bobs (DSG gearbox was an extra back then and is standard now) it was around £30,000 on the road. 7 years later an identical specced Mk8 GTD would be £36,000, so not a huge increase.


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## fossyant (4 Dec 2022)

Used prices are crazy at the moment too due to chip shortages for new cars.


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## Jameshow (4 Dec 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I did the new car thing once, but having worked hard saved hard paid cash. Sold 2 years on at great loss and never did it again. I won't include my motorhome in that which was also new, but sensible given the tiny used vs new variation.
> 
> Anyway, on topic, the £720 Volvo 240 estate (which was bought as my daily to afford the motorhome) needs new trailing arm bushes, since the old shells have rusted out. Apparently a pig of a job, I have the bits and once I get some time I'll get them done, might tighten up the boat like ride a bit, not really😄



That was a bargain!


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## Gunk (4 Dec 2022)

fossyant said:


> Used prices are crazy at the moment too due to chip shortages for new cars.



A couple of our friends have just cancelled new orders and bought used instead


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## Phaeton (4 Dec 2022)

fossyant said:


> Used prices are crazy at the moment too due to chip shortages for new cars.



Woman up the road bought a brand new Ford Puma, almost immediately she realised she didn't like it, when back to the dealer who gave her £2K more for it than she'd paid as they couldn't get hold of them & had a large waiting list.


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## fossyant (4 Dec 2022)

Phaeton said:


> Woman up the road bought a brand new Ford Puma, almost immediately she realised she didn't like it, when back to the dealer who gave her £2K more for it than she'd paid as they couldn't get hold of them & had a large waiting list.



My sister 'sold' her PCP 2 year old Seat SUV for the bigger one, and got more for it used, than she 'paid' new (not real money with PCP)


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## fossyant (4 Dec 2022)

Back on car DIY, slight oil top up on the Aygo, and I adjusted the passenger side headlamp aim slightly (bought better bulbs for it recently - made a significant difference to the brightness output - Halfords Advanced). The airbag light came on a few weeks ago after some road debris hit the underside of the car. Cleaned the connectors for the seats and front passenger airbag, and ran the reset/test pocedure (certain key turns) and all has been fine since.

Worth knowing the reset procedures as this can be an expensive dealer visit. If there is a fault the light won't go out, but a connector issue (common), if fixed will mean the light goes out after the car checks.


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## Phaeton (4 Dec 2022)

My next project is to make sense of this


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## Gunk (4 Dec 2022)

Good luck!


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## cosmicbike (5 Dec 2022)

Jameshow said:


> That was a bargain!



I thought so, especially as I bought it from the original owners Son, so effectively 1 previous owner. Love the thing, and it is cheap motoring really.


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## Tom B (6 Dec 2022)

Ten days ago we went to see the *luminations at Blackpool. Arriving back late I quickly bundled the kids out of the car and into bed. 

Seems my little lad left the interior light on (at least I'm blaming him) after a week or so it seemed to have run the battery down. The first I knew about it was this weekend when I came to get some bits out of the boot and it wouldnt zap. 

Popped the cover off the door handle cover and used the key to open the door and retrieve my bits including the battery charger. Next problem was the car was down the street from the house and being an electric handbrake I couldn't just roll it. I managed to daisy chain enough extension cables together to reach the car. I then remembered I'd attached the connector that came with the charger to the battery and left it tied up near the grill with the intention that I could simply fish it out and plug the charger in without having to open the car if it went flat. (I have a tendancy to get flat batteries when camping). Surely connected and a few hours later we was back on the road. The reconditioning cycle on the charger seems to have done the battery good and it's stop starting more than ever. I'm going to see if I can find a weatherproof connector that I can fix into the grill to simplify the process*.

Interestingly I didn't refit the emergency lock cover right away and noticed that I couldn't then open the drivers door with the handle for the outside... Only the inside. Normal service was resumed when I snapped the cover back in place. I assume it is some sort of anti theft feature. 


*Of course the whole ease of charging thing is defeated if I leave the charger in the boot.


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## Phaeton (6 Dec 2022)

Tom B said:


> Next problem was the car was down the street from the house and being an electric handbrake I couldn't just roll it.



I have always thought electric handbrakes were one of those, just because you can doesn't mean you should inventions, not being able to move the car with a flat battery further enforces that belief.


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## bikingdad90 (6 Dec 2022)

Phaeton said:


> I have always thought electric handbrakes were one of those, just because you can doesn't mean you should inventions, not being able to move the car with a flat battery further enforces that belief.


Most cars have a manual override that is like a cable pull in the boot to overcome this problem.


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## Jameshow (6 Dec 2022)

cosmicbike said:


> I thought so, especially as I bought it from the original owners Son, so effectively 1 previous owner. Love the thing, and it is cheap motoring really.



Back in 2000 I brought a 940 for £500. 

I drove it for 3 years, till my first son came along. Sold it as the Mrs found it too big. I regret selling it and still wish I had it!


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## mikeIow (6 Dec 2022)

I can recommend having a USB battery pack car charger. Used mine several times on the kids old Fiesta (now gone), & even a couple of times on our Kona EV - the 12v battery can cause grief, although ours was over 3 years old.
Also recommend the BM2 battery monitor (available at popular internet outlets): get a regular check on the 12v battery 👍


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## Richard A Thackeray (19 Dec 2022)

Just the front wiper-blades for my Kodiaq this afternoon 

The ice finished the near-side rubber
£18 for the pair (21” & 24”, l think)


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## Jameshow (19 Dec 2022)

I had the egr valve replaced, the dsg oil replaced(sounds much better) and new winter tyres just in time... 

Only to find a 9" dent to the front wing. Wheelie bin height! 

My wife denys all knowledge of it!!


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## Phaeton (31 Dec 2022)

Checking on the engine out in the garage that's going in the kit car, previous owner said he'd changed the cam belt & water pump but not turned it over since. Tried to turn it over only to find the alternator had seized, not a problem as there was a spare in the shed. Sorted that out & engine turns over freely.

Then went to start the other kit car which hasn't been started for a couple of months only to find the alternator had seized lol.


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## Hicky (1 Jan 2023)

Jameshow said:


> Back in 2000 I brought a 940 for £500.
> 
> I drove it for 3 years, till my first son came along. Sold it as the Mrs found it too big. I regret selling it and still wish I had it!


The landlord of our local is considering selling his 940, less than 200k red block LPT owned for 20+years, Volvo serviced. I’m sure it’s a GLE, leather seats, dog guard accessories all there. No piston slap however the usual lacquer peel. If the price is right and I can get classic insurance I might have a punt.


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## Hicky (1 Jan 2023)

The XC70 just had a new battery(by me), a new coolant thermostat housing and a tyre repair(left to the garage). I might pop the tailgate light back in to see if it was genuinely that or a diff battery now it has a new one🧐
I need to takeoff the O/S mirror to see why it isn’t moving as I can hear the motor going. 
Pickup the replacement retaining clip for the a pillar and fit(Volvo OE £1.78), recover the first attempt so they all match….I just need to replace the split washer res.


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## Phaeton (2 Jan 2023)

03/03/2021 bought a pair of Goodyear 225/65 R17 (102) H EFFICIENTGRIP SUV £162.68 fitted, they went on the back, getting ready for a pair on the front, same company, same tyres £258.78, 60% increase in price in 2 years


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## multitool (2 Jan 2023)

Fitted reversing sensors, cruise control, new electric window regulators, oil/filters changes, fitted air horn to van, battery replacements etc.

Won't do anything that requires long periods under car.


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## gbb (3 Jan 2023)

Phaeton said:


> 03/03/2021 bought a pair of Goodyear 225/65 R17 (102) H EFFICIENTGRIP SUV £162.68 fitted, they went on the back, getting ready for a pair on the front, same company, same tyres £258.78, 60% increase in price in 2 years



I always liked the efficient grips, a nice mid range tyre. Tbf, £80 each in 2021 must have been a good price, I think the last ones I brought were 16 inches, cost me £100 ea in maybe 2019


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## Phaeton (5 Jan 2023)

Just looked at the invoice again & there was a £30 offer on them, so should have been £192, but even so £192 to £258 is a bit steep. Our local Mr Tyre can do a pair for £238 so asked them to get a pair in.

It was picked up yesterday & taken for it's MOT it passed with advisories on front pads getting a bit thin & the tyres under 3mm, not bad for a 16 year old car with 147K on it.


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