# Does fixing a puncture get easier?



## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

I've never had a puncture so today as the weather was rubbish I thought I'd have a go at changing an inner tube, which I've never done before.

It was awful. Took me ages to get the wheel off, got tyre off ok, took inner tube out (I'd deflated it), put it back in. Really struggled getting the tyre back on. Went to re inflate inner tube and couldn't.

Turns out I'd somehow managed to puncture the inner tube while taking it out/putting it back in.

So tyre off again. Replaced inner tube. Couldn't get tyre back on this time as my fingers were so painful. Had to get husband to do it.

No idea how I managed to puncture the inner tube. While thing took me 2.5 hours and I couldn't even manage it myself. I'm really worried now what I'll do if I get a puncture 20 miles from home and husband isn't with me.


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## Peteaud (31 Dec 2013)

Practice at home.

It's much easier in the warm and dry and you will get used to doing it.

A cold wet day is never good anyway.


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## screenman (31 Dec 2013)

Phone Barron Cycles and ask them if you can pay them for 30 minutes labour to show you how to do it. Failing that Youtube and practise.

I hope you know of Barrons, superb shop not far from Lincoln.


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## byegad (31 Dec 2013)

Yes. Practice and do it over and over until you are comfortable, AND DO IT AT HOME!

No secrets and no tricks, it is just practice.


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## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

I was doing it in the kitchen at home. I've watched YouTube videos to get an idea of what to do. Barrons might be a good idea, thanks.


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## the_mikey (31 Dec 2013)

Nothing quite like practice. It will become almost automatic once you've changed several dozen!


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## ShipHill (31 Dec 2013)

Speaking as someone who has changed hundreds of tyres on cars, bikes and trucks in his life when I was a tyrefitter many years ago, it will get easier.

Always check thoroughly round the inside of the tyre for whatever caused the puncture.

Water is a great lubricant for getting the tyre on and off the wheel. Dry rubber on metal isn't that good a combination. A bit of water from a bottle, tap or even a puddle will help. 

Be careful not to pinch the tube with your tyre levers when removing the tyre. Partially inflate (very partially) the tube before putting it back in the tyre.

You should be able to get the tyre back on without using levers, just your hands. If you use levers, you risk pinching the tube creating another hole.

There's loads of videos on YouTube which are probably very good although I've never watched any myself.


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## Biker Joe (31 Dec 2013)

Like everything else, "Practice makes Perfect".


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## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

Thanks, will try not using tyre levers to put the tyre back on next time. Ive got marathon plus tyres which I've read are hard to get on and off.


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## Doc333 (31 Dec 2013)

I'm now top man on punctures thanks to the contributions of people on this board. Have a laugh at me in this thread

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/help-needed-even-if-i-am-an-idiot.146007/


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## Saluki (31 Dec 2013)

Its easy. My Dad showed me when I was a kid and I have fixed several dozen punctures/changed innertubes since. Its just a case of practicing and not worrying about it. Worrying will make things worse 
I carry a spare innertube with me and a puncture repair kit too, a pump too. I find that with clever packing that there is enough room in my little saddle bag for some chocolate as well. For medicinal purposes you understand.


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## albion (31 Dec 2013)

Deep rims and marathon plus means its next to impossible to get the tyre on without using a lever.

Makes sure the levers are plastic to reduce the risk.


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## ShipHill (31 Dec 2013)

Binka said:


> Thanks, will try not using tyre levers to put the tyre back on next time. Ive got marathon plus tyres which I've read are hard to get on and off.


Once you've mastered that, the rest is easy. The last bit of the tyre is the hardest to get on.

What you need to do is make sure the 90% of the tyre you have got on so far is in the well of the rim, not on the bead... if you follow my drift. A bit like the letter "E" with the middle bit of the E being the 2 beads and tube squished together or at least off of the rim. Someone may have a better analogy, but that's what you're aiming for.


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## ColinJ (31 Dec 2013)

It is no use practicing doing it the wrong way and it is absolutely untrue to say that there are no secrets or tricks! I punctured twice a day for a week until an experienced cyclist told me where I was going wrong, which was damaging the tubes using tyre levers when putting the tyre back on.


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## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

I've got plastic levers.


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## Peteaud (31 Dec 2013)

Binka said:


> Thanks, will try not using tyre levers to put the tyre back on next time. Ive got marathon plus tyres which I've read are hard to get on and off.



They are not the easiest.


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## Sillyoldman (31 Dec 2013)

this is the best video I found to show how easy it is to fix puncture with Marathon plus tyres. Genius.


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4


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## smokeysmoo (31 Dec 2013)

This video shows how to fit one of the hardest to fit tyres without tools.

[EDIT] cross posted with sillyoldman


and this one shows what can achieved if you out your mind to it.


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## albion (31 Dec 2013)

The thing I also noticed about Marathon Plus.

Some fitted as loose as h**l and some would not fit without using levers.
So each tyre can be different.


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## ShipHill (31 Dec 2013)

Sillyoldman said:


> this is the best video I found to show how easy it is to fix puncture with Marathon plus tyres. Genius.
> 
> 
> View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4




Good video.


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## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

Ok have had another go using the method in the video above. Thanks for that it made it loads easier and using the straps is a great idea. Only problem is now I don't seem to have got the valve out far enough for the pump to fix onto. I shoved it in enough at first but it must have slipped back as I put the second wall in. Can't push it out now so think ill have to take one wall off again!

I feel like I've been lifting weights.....my arms are killing me and my fingers are so sore. I'm such a wuss! I feel like I'm getting better though.


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## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

I haven't had a puncture in over 1000 miles. Am thinking of going touring and didnt want my first go at fixing one to be in some remote place with another 40 miles to go.

I bet I get two next week now.


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## screenman (31 Dec 2013)

Not a good video, the valve should be last as this prevents the tyre dropping into the lower part of the rim if done earlier, think about that and you will get why, also look at the strap buckles. The guy would not be let loose on a pair of my wheels.

OP, where in Lincoln are you?


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## ShipHill (31 Dec 2013)

Get the valve done first... but what do I know... anyway it sounds like you're making progress and you'll find your own way.


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## screenman (31 Dec 2013)

ShipHill said:


> Get the valve done first... but what do I know... anyway it sounds like you're making progress and you'll find your own way.


 Why? I have explained the reasoning behind my method and I am happy to see yours. I was shown valve last by a top GB mechanic too many years ago and have passed it on to many who it has helped.


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## ShipHill (31 Dec 2013)

In my own personal experience I prefer to get the valve in first. That goes for car, motorcycle and any other vehicle. The important thing is not to a) pinch the tube and b) lose the valve in the tyre (not the end of the world I know). 

I've found that leaving the valve until last increases the risk of losing it in the tyre when the last bit of bead pops on. This may tend to happen more on cars and motorbikes where the tyre is wider, but I just do the same when I'm fixing a bicycle tyre. Even so I still hold the valve when I pop the last bit of tyre on. This is obviously less likely to happen on say a 700x28 that a big fat MTB tyre due to the amount of room the valve can drop back.

Or...

... attach something (like a pump) to the valve to stop it dropping inside the rim hole.


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## slowmotion (31 Dec 2013)

The first time I put on a Marathon Plus ( having watched the Spa Cycles video ), I used eighteen cable ties and still struggled for forty five minutes. My fingers hurt like crazy. Marathon Plus tyres are a lot easier to fit once they have done some mileage. The rubber seems to get more supple. BTW,the trick of getting the bead down into the bottom of the rim to get more slack works well with any tyre.


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## Binka (31 Dec 2013)

> OP, where in Lincoln are you?




Saxilby.


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## screenman (31 Dec 2013)

In that case pop into the Anchor Lincoln wheelers should be in the Anchor at lunch time, go and say hello if you can, they are a great bunch. A few live in the village, I am in Bardney so a bit far for you to pop over for me to show you how I fit a tyre.


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## screenman (31 Dec 2013)

Shiphill, if you feel there is a chance of losing the valve I would suggest popping the dust cap on a couple of turns once you have put it in.

Also in car tyres the valve does not sit in the well, this makes valve first fine.


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## Pat "5mph" (31 Dec 2013)

Binka said:


> Thanks, will try not using tyre levers to put the tyre back on next time. Ive got marathon plus tyres which I've read are hard to get on and off.


Hi Binka, I got Marathon Plus too. On fitting them for the first time I broke 3 tyre leavers, almost broke digits, took me over 2 hours. Got a pinch flat next day (my fault for pinching the inner tube), fortunately not far from work, changed tube after work: took me an hour!  
The good thing about Marathons is that if you keep them properly inflated, check routinely for embedded sharp debris, you should not get punctures.
It is true they get easier to fit with use, the rubber becomes softer.


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## Sillyoldman (4 Jan 2014)

screenman said:


> Not a good video, the valve should be last as this prevents the tyre dropping into the lower part of the rim if done earlier, think about that and you will get why, also look at the strap buckles. The guy would not be let loose on a pair of my wheels.
> 
> OP, where in Lincoln are you?



Valve last? Not according to Campagnolo tech documentation for their wheels. Each to their own, I find valve first easiest.


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## Hip Priest (4 Jan 2014)

It gets easier but it will always be a pain in the arse.


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## screenman (5 Jan 2014)

Sillyoldman said:


> Valve last? Not according to Campagnolo tech documentation for their wheels. Each to their own, I find valve first easiest.



Maybe that is why a lot of people struggle to fit tyres on Campag wheels.

If you think what we are trying to achieve when fitting a tyre, which is to get the most of the tyre into the lowest part then you will understand the valve stops us from doing this, not for much but enough to make it harder to fit some tyres on some wheels. The last time I had to use a lever to fit a tyre was the last time I did not do valve last. 

Now of course the method I use may well not be the same as yours, but just give it a try sometime you may well like it. Most people who battle with fitting do so because they are concentrating purely on the last bit, if they took a few seconds to move the rest of the tyre in they would maybe find things easier.

If you do decide valve first then push it up inside the tyre, if it is left under they tyre bead when fitting then again it can make the tyre harder to fit.

Of course I am just saying what works for myself, somebody who does not have a problem fitting tyres, so I could still be wrong according to many and I accept that.


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## youngoldbloke (5 Jan 2014)

Michelin recommend valve last - works for me


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## ianrauk (5 Jan 2014)

Valve first for me.


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## screenman (5 Jan 2014)

ianrauk said:


> Valve first for me.


Why?


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## ianrauk (5 Jan 2014)

screenman said:


> Why?




Just seems easier. Push the valve part way into the rim so the tyre pops on and the rest follows as easy as an easy thing.

I have always done it that way for as far back as I can remember


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## youngoldbloke (5 Jan 2014)

youngoldbloke said:


> Michelin recommend valve last - works for me


- so do Vittoria


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## youngoldbloke (5 Jan 2014)

youngoldbloke said:


> - so do Vittoria


- and Schwalbe (p26)


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## screenman (5 Jan 2014)

ianrauk said:


> Just seems easier. Push the valve part way into the rim so the tyre pops on and the rest follows as easy as an easy thing.
> 
> I have always done it that way for as far back as I can remember



I was hoping for an actual mechanical like reason. I know it works for you but this topic is for somebody not finding the task easy. I have taken the time to say why valve last makes mechanical sense, was hoping somebody argue why I may be wrong.


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## ianrauk (5 Jan 2014)

screenman said:


> I was hoping for an actual mechanical like reason. I know it works for you but this topic is for somebody not finding the task easy. I have taken the time to say why valve last makes mechanical sense, was hoping somebody argur why I may be wrong.




I don't think either is wrong or there is a mechanical advantage or disadvantage either way. It's just what's easier for yourself.

My mechanical reason for doing valve first is that you can seat the tyre round the valve then work round from there.


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## screenman (5 Jan 2014)

The Campag write up is not as specif as the others mentioned.


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## youngoldbloke (5 Jan 2014)

If you start at the valve it then prevents you putting the beads right down into the well of the rim at that point - which helps if you are trying to fit a tight tyre.


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## screenman (5 Jan 2014)

ianrauk said:


> I don't think either is wrong or there is a mechanical advantage or disadvantage either way. It's just what's easier for yourself.
> 
> My mechanical reason for doing valve first is that you can seat the tyre round the valve then work round from there.


Ian there is certainly an advantage to valve last, as it allows the tyre to centre properly. Valve first does not.

For an inexperienced valve last is best, for the expert valve last is best, for the rest just have an open mind.

If you never try you never know.


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## Peteaud (5 Jan 2014)

Valve last for me.


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## Paulus (5 Jan 2014)

I have always put the valve in first, ever since I started mending my own punctures some 50 years ago. I have never tried the valve last method. I will try it next time, but is it not fiddly to get the valve correctly lined up with the hole in the rim?


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## steveindenmark (5 Jan 2014)

Peteaud said:


> Practice at home.
> 
> It's much easier in the warm and dry and you will get used to doing it.
> 
> A cold wet day is never good anyway.



Totally agree. Take the front wheel off. Give it a clean and take it indoors with a couple of tyre levers and a pump.
Doing it in the cold and rain for any of us is a PIA, regardless of experience. Especially the rear wheel.

Steve


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## youngoldbloke (5 Jan 2014)

Paulus said:


> I have always put the valve in first, ever since I started mending my own punctures some 50 years ago. I have never tried the valve last method. I will try it next time, but is it not fiddly to get the valve correctly lined up with the hole in the rim?


The valve is inserted in the hole as usual - it's just that you finish fitting the second tyre bead at the valve position, rather than starting to fit the second bead at the valve position, and finishing opposite the valve.


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## Paulus (6 Jan 2014)

youngoldbloke said:


> The valve is inserted in the hole as usual - it's just that you finish fitting the second tyre bead at the valve position, rather than starting to fit the second bead at the valve position, and finishing opposite the valve.



Ah, I am with you all now. Excuse my baffoonary. It is not putting the valve in last, but where you start/finish putting the tyre on the rim. In that case then, I always finish at the valve, always have done.


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## Sillyoldman (6 Jan 2014)

Paulus said:


> Ah, I am with you all now. Excuse my baffoonary. It is not putting the valve in last, but where you start/finish putting the tyre on the rim. In that case then, I always finish at the valve, always have done.



Ha ha double buffoonery because that's what I thought the guys were meaning as well.


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## screenman (6 Jan 2014)

In that case I apologize for not explaining it properly.


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## ColinJ (6 Jan 2014)

I confess to the same misunderstanding!

I used to insert valve first and start the tyre at the valve, but I switched to valve in first, tyre at valve last and found that ...



... it _was_ easier! 

For the first time, I was able to put tyres back on without using tyre levers.


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## Jon89 (7 Jan 2014)

Had a rear puncture today in the rain . I don't take the entire tyre off, feel round the inside off the tyre for anything that might have got in there and then just use some tyre levers to get one side off and slip your inner tube out valve first, then inflate the spare slightly and slip that in valve first.


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## Machin (7 Jan 2014)

Sillyoldman said:


> this is the best video I found to show how easy it is to fix puncture with Marathon plus tyres. Genius.
> 
> 
> View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4




I thought I was a pro at tyre changing and then I got some Marathon plus tyres! I use a technique similar to the one shown in this video, but I use zip-ties /cable ties: you can get ones that have a built in lever for undoing them quickly and easily. I keep a couple in my bag at all times; as they weigh absolutely nothing.






On the plus side, I've now done about 7000 miles with Marathon Plus tyres without a puncture, riding throughout the winter in all weathers.


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## summerdays (8 Jan 2014)

I find that once you have taken tyres on and off several times it does get slightly easier ... not sure why (I don't mean practise lots though that helps, but they seem to be a bit more malleable). So far I have always done it at home preferring to walk a mile or two and sort it out in the comfort of home. I am waiting for that first one that isn't close enough to walk. Luckily it's not a frequent occurance for me ... a maximum of one or two a year. Recently had a new tyre put on as part of a service and when I picked it up he said he had replaced my inner tube too since it was full of patches - I counted them - all 6 of them and thought that wasn't bad since it had been on the bike for the last 6 years or so.

I've used talc to help ease the tyre back on the bike. Lots of swearing seems to be necessary too! And experiment with different levers - I have a VAR lever which sometimes helps.


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## James Ots (8 Jan 2014)

I'm glad I read this thread earlier today. I just put my Schwalbe Winter tyres on. The first took about an hour. After about twenty minutes I remembered the video, watched it, found some zip ties and then spent half an hour getting the tyre on. The second tyre took about half an hour altogether - and _almost_ seemed easy. I wouldn't like to it by the roadside though.


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## Stonechat (9 Jan 2014)

Had 3 punctures in a day once and repaired them all at the roadside (i.e. no spare inner tube)


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## screenman (9 Jan 2014)

James Ots said:


> I'm glad I read this thread earlier today. I just put my Schwalbe Winter tyres on. The first took about an hour. After about twenty minutes I remembered the video, watched it, found some zip ties and then spent half an hour getting the tyre on. The second tyre took about half an hour altogether - and _almost_ seemed easy. I wouldn't like to it by the roadside though.



So you watched the video and went against the advice most of the tyre manufacturers, read the posts above and you will find the video is very poor. The zip ties tend to squash they tyre onto the bead and not allow it to drop down into the well.

Now I am sure you all studied physics at school so I will be telling you something you certainly already know. First time fit if you think you might struggle, cool the rim and warm the tyre, simple case of expansion and contraction. I know this is not possible on the road, but as others have said second time around is easier.


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## James Ots (9 Jan 2014)

screenman said:


> So you watched the video and went against the advice most of the tyre manufacturers, read the posts above and you will find the video is very poor. The zip ties tend to squash they tyre onto the bead and not allow it to drop down into the well.
> 
> Now I am sure you all studied physics at school so I will be telling you something you certainly already know. First time fit if you think you might struggle, cool the rim and warm the tyre, simple case of expansion and contraction. I know this is not possible on the road, but as others have said second time around is easier.



Well, I haven't read the advice of most tyre manufacturers, the rim was freezing cold as it came in from the garage, the tyres had actually been pretty close to my radiator, and as it happened, despite how terrible the video apparently is, using zip ties made it much, much easier to fit the tyre. 

Also, after some experimenting, I found that doing the valve first was easiest. When I did valve last I couldn't manage to do it without pinching the tyre. So I did valve first, loosened off the nut on the valve so that the tube could drop down into the tyre, and it worked really well.

This morning I rode into work on the tyres. I needed a little more effort to get going on them (understandably — they weigh more and aren't slick like my old tyres), and made an odd noise — a bit like riding on wet grit, or, when I'd got up to speed, like I had an electric bike. But passing pedestrians didn't seem to notice, so they're probably not too noisy. And they didn't affect how long I took to get to work. Now I just need some ice to ride on.


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## screenman (9 Jan 2014)

James Ots said:


> Well, I haven't read the advice of most tyre manufacturers, the rim was freezing cold as it came in from the garage, the tyres had actually been pretty close to my radiator, and as it happened, despite how terrible the video apparently is, using zip ties made it much, much easier to fit the tyre.
> 
> Also, after some experimenting, I found that doing the valve first was easiest. When I did valve last I couldn't manage to do it without pinching the tyre. So I did valve first, loosened off the nut on the valve so that the tube could drop down into the tyre, and it worked really well.
> 
> This morning I rode into work on the tyres. I needed a little more effort to get going on them (understandably — they weigh more and aren't slick like my old tyres), and made an odd noise — a bit like riding on wet grit, or, when I'd got up to speed, like I had an electric bike. But passing pedestrians didn't seem to notice, so they're probably not too noisy. And they didn't affect how long I took to get to work. Now I just need some ice to ride on.



Valve area last gives you more tyre to play with, so maybe you were just unlucky with a tube pinch. Not sure how you guys manage that though, not something that never occurs amongst our circle, maybe it is an age thing. Something like over 50 and it does not happen, maybe down to luck maybe something else.


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## London Female (10 Jan 2014)

Sillyoldman said:


> this is the best video I found to show how easy it is to fix puncture with Marathon plus tyres. Genius.
> 
> 
> View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4



Thank you for posting that. From next month I will be cycling to and from work and was thinking of trying marathon plus but was worried about getting them on.


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## youngoldbloke (10 Jan 2014)

Yes - I would recommend that video too - the technique applies to all tyres - you must get the beads down into the well. You don't always need the straps. The same technique applies to getting the tyre off too, so it is quite feasible to do without tyre levers much of the time. I would *always* check that the tube isn't trapped, only takes a few seconds.


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## sazzaa (2 Apr 2014)

Got my first puncture today waaaaaah.

Time to learn how to deal with it. Take it inner tubes are much of a muchness as long as they're the right size? Or is there a standout brand?


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## cyberknight (2 Apr 2014)

Always carry a couple of spare tubes ,nowt worse than faffing about in the cold , wet and dark trying to mend a tube unless you have too.


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## sazzaa (2 Apr 2014)

cyberknight said:


> Always carry a couple of spare tubes ,nowt worse than faffing about in the cold , wet and dark trying to mend a tube unless you have too.


 
I do carry a puncture repair kit, but I was close to home so just walked the bike back home and took the car to work instead. And to be honest, I would have been guessing what to do with the repair kit anyway!


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## ianrauk (2 Apr 2014)

sazzaa said:


> Got my first puncture today waaaaaah.
> 
> Time to learn how to deal with it. Take it inner tubes are much of a muchness as long as they're the right size? Or is there a standout brand?




Much of a muchness.
Look out for deals, etc Halfords 3 for 1


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## Leodis (2 Apr 2014)

Folding tyres are much easier than wire rimmed ones whilst on the move.


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## youngoldbloke (2 Apr 2014)

sazzaa said:


> I do carry a puncture repair kit, but I was close to home so just walked the bike back home and took the car to work instead. And to be honest, I would have been guessing what to do with the repair kit anyway!


Now you have a good opportunity to practice puncture repair at home then. Next time you might be further from home and as others have said it's a lot easier to change a tube than faff about at the side of the road trying to repair a tube. Take it home and deal with it there. Always make sure you know what caused the puncture and deal with it before replacing the tube, or it's likely you'll simply end up with another punctured tube.


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## sazzaa (2 Apr 2014)

youngoldbloke said:


> Now you have a good opportunity to practice puncture repair at home then.



That's the plan!


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## Pat "5mph" (2 Apr 2014)

sazzaa said:


> That's the plan!


Go for it! 
Let us know how you got on.


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## John the Canuck (2 Apr 2014)

not seen it mentioned....................

does anybody use washing up liquid as a lube on the rim..?

after all, they spread that white gunk on car rims


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## Davidc (2 Apr 2014)

John the Canuck said:


> not seen it mentioned....................
> 
> does anybody use washing up liquid as a lube on the rim..?
> 
> after all, they spread that white gunk on car rims


Out on the road I've always found a squirt of water from my water bottle helps make refitting the tyre easy. (I don't like the taste of washing up liquid so haven't tried it).


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## SWSteve (2 Apr 2014)

As others have said, practice at home in dry/warm. It does get easier with practice, but some tyres are more difficult to fit than others


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## youngoldbloke (3 Apr 2014)

John the Canuck said:


> not seen it mentioned....................
> 
> does anybody use washing up liquid as a lube on the rim..?
> 
> after all, they spread that white gunk on car rims


Talcum powder dusted inside the tyre when you change the tube acts as a lubricant, and prevents the tube sticking to the tyre or the rim tape.


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## Sharky (3 Apr 2014)

An old tale from my Dad. One of his group punctured and nobody had spare tubes or patches left. So they stuffed the tyre with "grass" and it was enough to get him home. Would have been in about 1937. They were are a bit more resourceful in those days!

Keith


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## Widge (3 Apr 2014)

My problem is not so much replacing tube and tyre...but RE_FITTING a rear wheel to a road bike with narrow clearances, next to no wiggle room and a chain that never goes where I want it!

It's like trying to fit an octopus into a saxophone 

I never know whether I should flip the bike (which makes everything upside down and back to front )- or try to wrestle it in with the bike upright?
Never the same problem with my MTB. 

Tips welcome! 

w


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## Sharky (3 Apr 2014)

Widge said:


> My problem is not so much replacing tube and tyre...but RE_FITTING a rear wheel to a road bike with narrow clearances, next to no wiggle room and a chain that never goes where I want it!
> 
> It's like trying to fit an octopus into a saxophone
> 
> ...



Chain on the smallest sprocket
Loosen the cable thingies to widen the clearance on your brakes. You should have one on the brake calipers and one on your brake levers.

If this doesn't work, need to inflate the tyre after you have put it back in the frame.

Cheers keith


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## ianrauk (3 Apr 2014)

Widge said:


> My problem is not so much replacing tube and tyre...but RE_FITTING a rear wheel to a road bike with narrow clearances, next to no wiggle room and a chain that never goes where I want it!
> 
> It's like trying to fit an octopus into a saxophone
> 
> ...




Make sure that your put the gears/chain onto the highest gear (smallest cog) at the back. That way the chain will fit easier.


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## youngoldbloke (3 Apr 2014)

Bike upright. Make sure the chain is on the smallest front chain ring and rear cog before you take the wheel out. Tip - If you need to move the rear mech/chain and you are worried about getting your hands dirty look for a handy dock leaf or similar, or carry disposable plastic gloves.
- and remember to do up the QR on the brake before setting off again.


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## Old Plodder (3 Apr 2014)

I turn my bike upside down, saves my back, otherwise, as above say.


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## alans (3 Apr 2014)

There is an NVQ course available for puncture repairing that begins as a novice & continues through higher education,to university, extending to Diploma,Doctorate & PPP (Professor of Punctures Person) status.
Curriculum details available on request.


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## BAtoo (7 Apr 2014)

Well the P fairy visited me yesterday (probably a pinch after hitting a pot-hole at a reasonable speed).
700C, 25mm Continentals on Mavic rims.
Tyre off one side only using levers to start with.
Tube out, found and repaired the hole as i was doing it a home.
Tube in and pushed up into the tyre.
Very slightly inflate the tyre.
Starting at the valve, push the valve in a little and slip the rim in. (been doing it this way for 40years on a variety of bikes)
Then grasp the tube either side of the start with hands around the whole tyre and rim and roll the tyre bead into the rim.
Work both ways from the starting point.
As you go push the tyre into the well of the rim and check the tube is not caught.
I usually find I can get all but the last 6-9 inches of tyre in easily, the last bit is a bit more difficult but the rolling technique works.
Inflate tyre.
Check it stays inflated.
Find it doesnt 
Back to the beginnign and repair the second hole.
All done leisurely in 30 minutes whilst watching the end of the Grand Prix !!


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## sazzaa (7 Apr 2014)

I finally got round to replacing my inner tube yesterday, found it all quite easy apart from getting the wheel back in (rear wheel), what an absolute faff! Have now bought disposable gloves so I don't get clarted in oil next time.


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## ianrauk (7 Apr 2014)

sazzaa said:


> I finally got round to replacing my inner tube yesterday, found it all quite easy apart from getting the wheel back in (rear wheel), what an absolute faff! Have now bought disposable gloves so I don't get clarted in oil next time.




Make sure you put the gears into the highest (smallest cog) first. Makes putting the chain and wheel back on much easier.


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## Stonechat (7 Apr 2014)

Had a puncture on Friday - really no bother. Found the leak wsa not far from the valve and no glass/stone/thonr left in the tyre

I had an inner tube but in the dry no trouble to change the inner tube

Bob


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## Big Nick (7 Apr 2014)

Yes it does get easier......if you have quick release skewers and if you don't your axle bolts aren't seized on!!


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## sazzaa (7 Apr 2014)

ianrauk said:


> Make sure you put the gears into the highest (smallest cog) first. Makes putting the chain and wheel back on much easier.



I did this and still struggled! I think it would be easier if the bike had been upside down instead of on the workstand?


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## John the Canuck (7 Apr 2014)

how do you ensure the tyre profile is concentric....

bought a Peugeot with 700x23c Continentals
tyres brand new - but decided to install new tubes for peace of mind

no probs until inflated - there is a 'ridge' on the wall just above bead
it doesn't sit on the rim edge all the way round when inflated IYSWIM

so when spinning the wheel, the tyre seems to 'bulge' up and down
deflate - wiggle/roll the bead - inflate - same - 

help.?


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## ColinJ (7 Apr 2014)

sazzaa said:


> I did this and still struggled! I think it would be easier if the bike had been upside down instead of on the workstand?


Hit it! 

I was struggling to get my rear wheel back in after a puncture repair on Saturday. I had put the chain on the smallest sprocket and had made sure that everything was lined up properly. It turned out to be the brake blocks squeezing the tyre, despite having slackened the brake with the button on the ergoshifter (Campagnolo).

One solution would have been to fit the wheel with the tyre flat and then reinflate it, but I couldn't be bothered with that. A couple of well-aimed blows to the tyre with the palm of my hand knocked the wheel into place.


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## ColinJ (7 Apr 2014)

John the Canuck said:


> how do you ensure the tyre profile is concentric....
> 
> bought a Peugeot with 700x23c Continentals
> tyres brand new - but decided to install new tubes for peace of mind
> ...


It is usually due to the bead not being seated properly, perhaps because the tube is pinched. On one such occasion, however, I discovered that the tyre was breaking up from the inside, which was a bit of a scary discovery!


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## Stonechat (7 Apr 2014)

ColinJ said:


> It is usually due to the bead not being seated properly, perhaps because the tube is pinched. On one such occasion, however, I discovered that the tyre was breaking up from the inside, which was a bit of a scary discovery!


That was my thought


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## John the Canuck (7 Apr 2014)

thanks..................^^^^^

sorry i wasn't clear 
the bead is seated too far 'down' in the rim
the tube is not pinched - made sure by squeezing the tyre walls and looking into the well

could be the tyre didn't come up enough afterwards..?
i'll deflate again and try re-seating the bead


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2014)

yeah deflate and make sure you check tube isnt trapped under bead of tyre ,it might not be enough to puncture blow out but b enough to make it look a bit off .
push the tyre (with tube inside it )right into well of rim all the way round (pinch it together basically )and reinflate


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## summerdays (7 Apr 2014)

Well I've decided that winter is gone and replaced the studded tyres on the spare bike with their normal summer tyres. So far so good, only took an hour (but that does include looking for glass too). For me I sort of bounce the wheel a bit before reinflating to settle it into place.


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## youngoldbloke (7 Apr 2014)

^  me too. Half inflate the tyre and turn and bounce the wheel to make sure tube is settled in tyre, and tyre settled in place on rim.


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## John the Canuck (7 Apr 2014)

sorted thanks

inflated to 30psi - made sure the beads were sitting UP on the rim edge then CO2 blast to 100psi


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## Roadhump (8 Apr 2014)

As quite a non-technical type I have found fixing punctures gets easier. I hadn't had one for years and then got 4 in 3 months (2 in one ride) last Autumn despite having armadillo tyres. I changed to Schwalbe Marathon Plus as the owner of the local bike shop advised me you would have to be very unlucky to get punctures with them - tempting fate, but so far so good. I have never been able to get a tyre on my road bike without using levers but have on my mountain bike - must try using water next time as advised above.


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