# "Slick" road tyres...Will I avoid dying?



## perplexed (12 Jul 2010)

Ok folks, just a bit of general advice if you'd be so kind...

I'm shortly about to join the ranks of road bike cyclists. I ride a hybrid at present, which I will continue to do.

Now, much as I'm looking forward to getting out and about on my new road bike (haven't got it yet, its on order), the one thing that I think may be tricky to get used to is the tyres.

How much of a difference can I expect to find between the "slicks" and the treaded tyres (700cc) on my hybrid? Clearly there is going to be some difference, and I understand that the slicks should be pretty grippy in the dry.

But in the wet, how will they behave, how big is the difference?

Thanks all...


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## Kestevan (12 Jul 2010)

The tread on a bikes tyres does absolutely nothing on road. The slick will have just a good grip(or better) in the wet as a tyre of the same width with a tread pattern


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## perplexed (12 Jul 2010)

Kestevan said:


> The tread on a bikes tyres does absolutely nothing on road. The slick will have just a good grip(or better) in the wet as a tyre of the same width with a tread pattern




I didn't know that. I assumed that the tread was to shed water to reduce the risk of aquaplaning (as it were...).

Ta!


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## accountantpete (12 Jul 2010)

The only real difference will presumably be a smaller contact area with the road -so you learn to take it steady round corners especially in the wet and avoid painted bits.

If the bike is new then the chances are that the stock tyres will be fairly naff - may be worth saving up for some Michelin Pro's or similar.


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## rh100 (12 Jul 2010)

perplexed said:


> I didn't know that. I assumed that the tread was to shed water to reduce the risk of aquaplaning (as it were...).
> 
> Ta!




As I understand it, bicycle tyres are too narrow to aquaplane. Sheldon explains it better (as always  ) edit: heres the link as the formatting is out http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_ho-z.html#hydroplaning


*



<H3>Hydroplaning

Click to expand...

*


> When an automobile is driven fast on wet roads, especially if it has worn-out tires, a cushion of water can build up under the tires, preventing the rubber from contacting the road. This is very scary and dangerous, because it leads to a total loss of traction.
> 
> Fortunately for cyclists, *this cannot happen to a bicycle*; they don't go fast enough, nor have a large enough contact patch, nor do the tires run at a low enough pressure to make hydroplaning possible.
> 
> ...


</H3>


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## GrumpyGregry (12 Jul 2010)

to aquaplane a bike tyre at 100psi, what with it being very narrow and relatively rigid, you would be topping 100mph iirc.


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## Alan Whicker (12 Jul 2010)

I've always understood that the road surface acts as the grip by 'biting' into the tyre.


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## Randochap (12 Jul 2010)

As noted, it's near impossible to hydroplane on a bicycle -- unless one can generate speeds around 200 km/h.

Yes, the road is the "tread" as rubber deforms around not-so-microscopic irregularities in tarmac. Tread is only useful on soft surfaces, otherwise it actually squirms around on hard surfaces, giving _less _traction.

Overinflated tyres will also give less traction on paved roads, so make sure you are inflating for surface/weight, rather than assumption that the higher the inflation the faster the bike.


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## g00se (12 Jul 2010)

I think it's more the case that treaded tyres on hybrid-style tyres is more to grip on surfaces with 'give' - country tracks, sandy unsurfaced roads etc.


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## HJ (12 Jul 2010)

perplexed said:


> I didn't know that. I assumed that the tread was to shed water to reduce the risk of aquaplaning (as it were...).
> 
> Ta!



You would need to be travelling in excess of 90 mph to aquaplane a bicycle using slick tyres...

See Sheldon Brown for more that you ever thought you wanted to know about tyres...


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## Fab Foodie (12 Jul 2010)

Tyres also vary in the 'softness' or 'grippiness' of rubber compound. Softer rubber like Pro Race 3s are hugely grippy in the wet and dry, but wear quickly. Others grip well in the dry but are hopeless in the wet. So they all differ.
Otherwise I agree that tread has no value on the road.


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## User10119 (12 Jul 2010)

And you'll get used to them quick enough. I moved from a Halford's gas pipe special with 8 foot wide knobblies (ok, that might contain the merest hint of exageration) to slick 32s when I bought my new bike. Felt completely bizarre and mildly terrfying for the first few miles (possibly because I bought the bike in December so the first few miles were a defiant "I WILL ride this bike if it kills me" slide round the block in the snow, of course) but after a couple of days of normal pootling about, once the ice and snow had gone, they were fine. And when I used my dearly_beloved's bike recently it felt utterly bizzare to ride on squidgy squirmy knobblies again.


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## HLaB (13 Jul 2010)

[QUOTE 1128391"]
And you'll get used to them quick enough. I moved from a Halford's gas pipe special with 8 foot wide knobblies (ok, that might contain the merest hint of exageration) to slick 32s when I bought my new bike. Felt completely bizarre and mildly terrfying for the first few miles (possibly because I bought the bike in December so the first few miles were a defiant "I WILL ride this bike if it kills me" slide round the block in the snow, of course) but after a couple of days of normal pootling about, once the ice and snow had gone, they were fine. And when I used my dearly_beloved's bike recently it felt utterly bizzare to ride on squidgy squirmy knobblies again.
[/quote]

+1, When I bought my first bike after a long break I couldn't picture how folk would handle 23mm, they looked unnaturally narrow; I think I bought a bike with 700x35c they were changed to 32mm to get better clearance from the guards, my next bike had 28mm and then 25mm and my current road bikes have 23mm, which no longer seems unnaturally narrow. The 23's have been incredibly grippy and I've had no problem (touch wood) in the wet (rain or sleet).


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## perplexed (14 Jul 2010)

Thanks to one and all, most reassuring!

I'll let you know how it goes...


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## Banjo (14 Jul 2010)

When I started riding the road bike last year I couldnt trust the 23 c slick tyres and took it very easy around bends wet or dry. Now after a couple of thousand miles I feel safer on the road bike than the hybrid with wider treaded tyres.


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## martint235 (14 Jul 2010)

As well as avoiding white bits in the road, avoid anything metal: drain covers etc and those little squares near pedestrian crossings particularly when cornering. On my commute I have a tight right hand bend over a zebra crossing and believe me you wake up quickly if you're leaning the bike in the wet and it hits one of those square things!!!


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## HJ (15 Jul 2010)

Banjo said:


> When I started riding the road bike last year I couldnt trust the 23 c slick tyres and took it very easy around bends wet or dry. Now after a couple of thousand miles I feel safer on the road bike than the hybrid with wider treaded tyres.



Time to put 28mm tyres on the hybrid then


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## marinyork (15 Jul 2010)

The wet is bad for tram tracks and fairly steep gradients like 14%. Other than that you get used to it.


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## perplexed (17 Jul 2010)

Now the good folks of CC have explained the theories and the science behind the tyres, I feel alot more comfortable about going out and about, even in the wet.

Being in Sheffield, it's impossible to go more than a very short distance before hitting a steep hill, but I'm looking forward to improving my climbing!


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## Sheffield_Tiger (17 Jul 2010)

perplexed said:


> Now the good folks of CC have explained the theories and the science behind the tyres, I feel alot more comfortable about going out and about, even in the wet.
> 
> Being in Sheffield, it's impossible to go more than a very short distance before hitting a steep hill, but I'm looking forward to improving my climbing!



Nah, you can go around hills or find zig-zag routes for many hills..that's the way I tend to do it

On the tyres...I'm more nervous cornering in the wet on my road bike with 23s (not fancy ones either, Mitchelin Oriums, £10 each approx) but I've had more actual little slips/wheelspins on the tourer with 32s - though I put the uphill wheelspins down to the extra weight - I'm not sure whether its all in my head, as I would say the 32s are less slippy but on evidence there is nothing to back that up


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## Mad Doug Biker (17 Jul 2010)

This sounds like a challenge for someone - be the first person to aquaplane a bike!!


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## Mad Doug Biker (17 Jul 2010)

martint235 said:


> As well as avoiding white bits in the road, avoid anything metal: drain covers etc and those little squares near pedestrian crossings particularly when cornering. On my commute I have a tight right hand bend over a zebra crossing and believe me you wake up quickly if you're leaning the bike in the wet and it hits one of those square things!!!



The very first time I went out on the Felt to do a proper ride, I hit a kerb a speed (the way it was I didn't see it until it was too late - I wont make that mistake twice!). With a large BANG, the bike lurched up violently but still kept going.
Scared I had just knackered the wheel, I stopped and heard that I'd given myself a puncture! 
It was 5 in the morning and the first train home wasn't for another hour, so I walked the bike home instead  (I make sure I always carry a spare tube and pump with me now).


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