# Giant Peloton SS



## Bark clark (25 Jul 2014)

Hi all, new to this forum and new to SS. Got a hold of my dad's old aluminium giant peloton 8200 9 speed frame and was introduced to singlespeed by my cousin. Slowly been converting it as can be seen by the pictures below. Being a vertical dropout it needs a tensioner which is on its way. Ordered a shimano alfine and discovered that it could also assist a two speed option (which I'm sure true SS's will frown upon), anyways here it is so far . (One picture along side my cousins old steel frame singlespeed!)
Cheers!


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## Andrew1971 (30 Jul 2014)

She will look good when finished


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## Bark clark (30 Jul 2014)

Cheers Andrew! Chain and tensioner are now on!!  Tensioner is only so far back because it's on the small chain ring, may still be room for more chain adjustment.


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## Andrew1971 (31 Jul 2014)

Now is see what your doing. Never thought of that before !! 2 speed fast and even faster


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## Bark clark (31 Jul 2014)

Yep that's the idea!
39/18 = 56.9" & 53/18 = 77.3"
Once I'm used to them I'll change the rear cog to a 16T to make the small chainring a good all rounder for my hilly commute then the large chainring to blitz the straights!


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## Bark clark (1 Aug 2014)

Chainline is less than desirable on the big chain ring though :/


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## Andrew1971 (1 Aug 2014)

As long as the chain does not come off while pedaling. How much clearance is there between the frame and chain rings. 
Just thinking may be be able to get a smaller bottom bracket bearing to bring the chain ring closer to the frame so chain
is more in line with big ring
Andrew


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## dan_bo (1 Aug 2014)

That looks pretty smart. Like it.


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## Bark clark (1 Aug 2014)

Andrew1971 said:


> As long as the chain does not come off while pedaling. How much clearance is there between the frame and chain rings.
> Just thinking may be be able to get a smaller bottom bracket bearing to bring the chain ring closer to the frame so chain
> is more in line with big ring
> Andrew



Cheers for the info!

Got a cheap set of pedals on it to test it out. Chain stays on when on the 53T chain ring, the tensioner definitely helps but it definitely runs smoother on the 39T as the chain line is pretty straight! Only a few mm's I think from the 53T chain ring to the chain stay so a little but not much movement there!


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## Torvi (2 Aug 2014)

amazing colours mate  lovely bikes both of them altho im not a fan of fixies  keep posting work progress


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## ClichéGuevara (2 Aug 2014)

What a nice looking bike. Well done. 

Obviously, the best way to improve it, would be to stick me on top, so when do I collect?


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## Andrew1971 (3 Aug 2014)

ClicheGuevara
Dont forget to get a saddle and seat post might get uncomfortable 
Cant see one in pic's


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## Bark clark (3 Aug 2014)

Hahaha saddle and seat post are definitely next! Not very cycle-able (new word haha) without one! Just buying bits and bobs as I go along haha


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## Bark clark (3 Aug 2014)

ClichéGuevara said:


> What a nice looking bike. Well done.
> 
> Obviously, the best way to improve it, would be to stick me on top, so when do I collect?



Hahaha good try


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## Bark clark (6 Aug 2014)

Seat stem ordered and ill use my dad's old seat for the time being! I have about 8mm from the big chainring and about 4mm from the small chainring. Would this allow for said smaller BB bearing? Probably will be easier just to get a new chainset, current one is probably pretty knackered anyways!


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## Bark clark (12 Aug 2014)

Tightened up the chain some more and my seat stem arrived!


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## MrGrumpy (12 Aug 2014)

Hmm food for thought, I have a Giant CFR 2 which looks same as that but carbon tubed. What hub are you using on the back ? Is it a freewheel conversion or is it a single speed screw on hub type thingy!  Pretty sure I measured the BB chainline on mine and could fit a track chainset on there and get a 45mm chainline at the front, then just need to sort the spacing at the back. Already have a Langster so this is just playing around. Mind you time I added up all the bits I could probably fit a groupset on for not much more if hunting around the classifieds.


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## Bark clark (12 Aug 2014)

It's a flip flop hub with freewheel on one side and fixed on the other. It's all new to me so I'm unsure what my options are with the BB & chainsets etc. I'll get my rear wheel re-dished at some point though to better the chain line!


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## Andrew1971 (13 Aug 2014)

Hi 
If you plan on getting a new chain set i would leave the rear wheel alone and see what can be done with a new chain set on.
If you redish the wheel you wont be able to use the other side as if something goes wrong with single speed.


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## Bark clark (14 Aug 2014)

Andrew1971 said:


> Hi
> If you plan on getting a new chain set i would leave the rear wheel alone and see what can be done with a new chain set on.
> If you redish the wheel you wont be able to use the other side as if something goes wrong with single speed.



Good point. Never thought about that! Not that'll ill use the fixed side, it could come in handy if something goes wrong!


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## Bark clark (15 Aug 2014)

Coming together!


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## Andrew1971 (15 Aug 2014)

She's coming along nicely. Your handle bars they look like cut racer one !! if so that's what i have done to mine Awesome


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## Bark clark (15 Aug 2014)

Andrew1971 said:


> She's coming along nicely. Your handle bars they look like cut racer one !! if so that's what i have done to mine Awesome


How did you guess :P haha. Yeah I chopped them!


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## Bark clark (23 Aug 2014)

Ditched the tensioner / two speed idea for now because the chain kept getting thrown off recently when testing it. I can always go back to it.

Going to try and get the perfect chain tension with the right cog ratio with/without half link if its possible. According to the online calculator it COULD work.

How do you measure chainstay length? Keep reading conflicting information online. I've measured a length of 40.5cm.

Below it's set up as 53×18. Chain too tight and far too big a gear for my commute... but it's soo quiet!


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## Andrew1971 (23 Aug 2014)

Well what to do !! if it were mine i would take off big chain ring move smaller chain ring out side and get a chain tensioner that look's like this
http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/tensioners/singulator-html.html
Then enjoy her


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## Bark clark (23 Aug 2014)

Andrew1971 said:


> Well what to do !! if it were mine i would take off big chain ring move smaller chain ring out side and get a chain tensioner that look's like this
> http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/tensioners/singulator-html.html
> Then enjoy her



Going to use the small chain ring on the inside for the chain line. Then fiddle cog sizes from there. Getting a singulator is always an option. 39x17 should get things rolling (quite literally haha) to start with anyways


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## Old Plodder (26 Aug 2014)

WARNING do not used fixed cog with a chain tensioner!
(Put another S/S cog on there for emergencies if you must.)

As an aside, I tried using both double & triple chainsets, but found it much easier to stick with a single, you soon get used to pushing a little harder uphill, (or, in my case, walking), & just relax going downhill). But, as with anything, it is your machine - enjoy.


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## Bark clark (27 Aug 2014)

Right. On my bike just now i have 39t x 18t. 46" chain is too tight. Adding a halflink to make it 46.5" makes the chain too loose.

So I have ordered a Sturmey archer 17t freewheel. (39t×17t; 60gi) This should reduce the distance the chain needs to travel by 1/4". Keeping the 46" chain which was previously too tight, it 'should' fit nice.

If all works out well I can reduce the 17t to a 15t, remove two links and replace with a half link to give me a nice 68gi!

Spent the last few days getting my head around it. Not the easiest haha.

On another note I'm not entirely convinced that this:
http://eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php
has completely accurate information.

Cheers


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## Bark clark (2 Sep 2014)

GOOD NEWS!

17t freewheel arrived. Fitted it up with the rest of my set up and bingo! Perfect chain tension, no tensioner needed.

I now have a nice quiet 60gi bike! Next up is brakes and removing the 53t chain ring!

Over and out!


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## Andrew1971 (30 Sep 2014)

@Bark clark 
Have you finished her yet !!


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## Bark clark (8 Oct 2014)

Sorry I've been fairly busy and I've not had much time for the bike. I ordered some bar end brake levers today though to get the bike to a running standard. Think I'll order a 15t fixed cog too!


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## Bark clark (13 Oct 2014)

Received my Cane Creek 200tt brake levers today!


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## Andrew1971 (13 Oct 2014)

The new lever's look good  can you reach them !!


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## Bark clark (13 Oct 2014)

Yeah I can reach them haha. Surprisingly they are a very comfortable positioning


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## DaveS (14 Oct 2014)

Great looking bike, nice project! I had a Giant Peloton a while back set up single speed . 43/17 fitted perfectly for around 68 inch.


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## Bark clark (15 Oct 2014)

DaveS said:


> Great looking bike, nice project! I had a Giant Peloton a while back set up single speed . 43/17 fitted perfectly for around 68 inch.



Cool! I'm keeping 39 on the front as that's what's already on it haha. Currently set up as 39x17 60gi but I have just ordered a 15t fixed to make it 68-69gi just like yours was.



Had a quick rough set up to see how the front brake line would set up. Theyll get changed anyways as ive ordered new brake lines, along with my new fixed cog and some handlebar tape.


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## Andrew1971 (15 Oct 2014)

She will be a good one when finished


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## Bark clark (15 Oct 2014)

Andrew1971 said:


> She will be a good one when finished


It's taken me long enough eh?! Haha


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## Andrew1971 (15 Oct 2014)

Better late then never !!


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## philtalksbx (15 Oct 2014)

If you take the big ring off, try a chainguard like this
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b2s149p2381 
from Spa Cycles. They do one that suits a 39T inner. I put one on mine, it looks sleek and keeps her trews out of the oily bits.


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## philtalksbx (15 Oct 2014)

Or even yer trews, ##**## autocorrect!


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## Bark clark (15 Oct 2014)

philtalksbx said:


> If you take the big ring off, try a chainguard like this
> http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b2s149p2381
> from Spa Cycles. They do one that suits a 39T inner. I put one on mine, it looks sleek and keeps her trews out of the oily bits.


Cheers for the info!! Seems like a great idea! Would that just bolt in and replace the outer chainring?


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## philtalksbx (16 Oct 2014)

Yes exactly that - slides on over the crank arm, use the same bolts that held the big ring in place and away you go. Just make sure you measure the bolt holes for bolt circle diameter (BCD). Easiest way is to measure from one bolt centre to the centre of the crank spindle (radius of the circle) and then double it. Its usually 130mm for road cranksets but it pays to make sure.


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## Bark clark (16 Oct 2014)

philtalksbx said:


> Yes exactly that - slides on over the crank arm, use the same bolts that held the big ring in place and away you go. Just make sure you measure the bolt holes for bolt circle diameter (BCD). Easiest way is to measure from one bolt centre to the centre of the crank spindle (radius of the circle) and then double it. Its usually 130mm for road cranksets but it pays to make sure.


Awesome! I'm pretty sure it's 130mm but I've only checked it once and as you says it's best to double check! Cheers!


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## Bark clark (20 Oct 2014)

Looking for barrel adjusters for my brakes at the caliper end. Can only find 6mm or 10mm ones. My ones seem to measure up at 8-9mm. Any ideas?


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## DaveS (20 Oct 2014)

From the photo they look like campag callipers, correct?


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## Bark clark (20 Oct 2014)

DaveS said:


> From the photo they look like campag callipers, correct?


Good point i never though about that. Yeah as far as I'm aware it was all campag gear that was originally on it. Specialist campag component I take it that's needed?


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## Bark clark (20 Oct 2014)

Fitted my 15t fixed cog. Removed two links and fited my half link! 68gi hopefully it'll be on the road by next week!!


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## DaveS (20 Oct 2014)

The campag callipers I have all have a 6mm adjuster, but the callipers are NOT threaded. Instead they have a flat which matches a flat on the adjuster, and slip in freely . Adjustment is made by screwing the wheel adjuster up or down the thread . See pic below. Thus, probably any 6mm adjuster will do if you can file a flat on it and add a m6 nut for adjustment . Maybe you have lever adjusters and just need a cable support, in which case you could just forget the nut on the barrel adjuster. Dedicated campag adjusters would be best though I guess . . . .


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## Bark clark (21 Oct 2014)

Starting to look like a complete bike again! Front brake cables and handlebar tape fitted!


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## Bark clark (22 Oct 2014)

Both sides wrapped up with the brakes fitted! Rear brake not fully functioning yet though!


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## Andrew1971 (22 Oct 2014)

Ohhh so close now Hang on you can ride her now it's fixed don't need a rear brake


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## Bark clark (22 Oct 2014)

Yeah it may not be a functioning rear brake but it's not going to hold me back!


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## Bark clark (23 Oct 2014)

I am selling my shimano alfine chain tensioner on ebay if anyone is interested? It was featured further up this thread. Its a good bit of kit, I just no longer need it. Only had it on the bike for like a week.

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=161459342448&alt=web


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## Bark clark (23 Oct 2014)

It's home! Cycled to my parents and back... scary! In the dark, fixed and haven't properly cycled in about 8 years! But I'm back on the road! Onwards and upwards!! 

Any idea why my front brake sounds like a distressed whale when braking? Hahaha


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## Andrew1971 (23 Oct 2014)

Front brake squeal's BUT is it good?? and your braking rim is covered with what ever they coated the wheel with. Are they new brake block's?
or brake block toe in/out that's where the rear of brake block is just touching the rim and the front of the brake block 1mm gap. (if memory serve's me right) or get one of these make brake block setting so much easier http://www.amazon.co.uk/Tacx-Brake-...?ie=UTF8&qid=1414087958&sr=8-29&keywords=tacx 
Andrew


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## DaveS (23 Oct 2014)

Noisy brakes is 99% certain to be incorrect toe in. Set the blocks so the front of the block hits the rim a little before the tail.


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## Andrew1971 (23 Oct 2014)

Look's like i got wrong


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## Bark clark (24 Oct 2014)

I'll have a fiddle about with the setup of the brakes and ill see what happens. The brake blocks are old too which won't help and I imagine the painted rim isn't doing me any favours either!


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## Bark clark (24 Oct 2014)




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## DaveS (24 Oct 2014)

Brilliant! You are on the road . . . .


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## Bark clark (24 Oct 2014)

DaveS said:


> Brilliant! You are on the road . . . .


Easing myself in slowly.. haha


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## Bark clark (24 Oct 2014)

Hit 33.6mph on a short flat 






(Need to get faster! Haha)


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## Bark clark (27 Oct 2014)

My first commute to work went better than expected


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## jim55 (29 Oct 2014)

No foot retention on fixed,


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## Bark clark (30 Oct 2014)

jim55 said:


> No foot retention on fixed,


Sorry, being a 'newbie' I'm not quite sure what you mean here?


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## jim55 (30 Oct 2014)

If ur building a fixed gear bike and your not quite sure what I mean I'd question wether u should even ride it!
Fixed gear / wheel bikes need to have a permanent connection with your feet and obv its a way of controlling speed and not letting the bike get away from u
Do u intend going down a hill and just putting yr feet out to the side and whizzing down the hill while the pedals rotate wildly and u can't stop them and when u need to pedal again u find that they are spinning to fast for u to get your feet back on and poss scraping ur shin/calve in the process and (more than likely getting your trousers or something caught in the wildly flailing pedals and the bike spitting you off) 
A fixed gear bike without some form of foot retention is dangerous ,look at most ,cleats toe clips orthings I can't remember name of u twist ur foot into
Research it


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## Bark clark (30 Oct 2014)

I take it that you didnt catch the sarcasm in my comment. Your previous comment was just plain blunt and full of assumptions. I have researched it, I understand the dangers of running without foot retention, thats why i am currently using toe clips, I'm also currently looking at some a520 or m520 pedals and cleats purely from research and the good reviews I have came across for their reasonable price. Also I'm not going downhills letting the pedals 'rotate wildly' as I use a combination of brakes and pushing back on the pedals.

As it goes, don't assume, it just makes an ass out of you and me.


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## jim55 (30 Oct 2014)

*How important is Foot Retention??*
Sorry I'm new so feel free to bash

I've heard people say having foot retention and/or toe clips is a must on a fixed gear.


If you're going brakeless foot retention is a must; life or death
You asked a question I answered!!
The assumption was made because I read all of the thread and at no point did u mention it and when I raised the issue you replied " being a newbie you didn't understand " 
How was I to know you posted an ( by your own admission ironic comment??????iv offered advice and u seem to think I'm being a smart arse! Your response was taken as somebody who didn't know the basics ,they're only one ass here and it's not been me


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## Bark clark (31 Oct 2014)

Raised the issue? You offered no help in your first comment. Just a blunt statement with a smug looking 'emoji'. You assumed I knew nothing about the issue. I'll make sure to document everything in the future.

Anyways, I have cycled to and from work twice this week, been hard but I love it. First day on the return 8 miles I was cycling into a head wind but hey ho. Averaging 13mph over a fairly hilly route, in my eyes anyways. 4% gradient on one hill. I'll get stronger .


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## DaveS (31 Oct 2014)

Bark clark said:


> I have cycled to and from work twice this week, been hard but I love it. First day on the return 8 miles I was cycling into a head wind but hey ho. Averaging 13mph over a fairly hilly route, in my eyes anyways. 4% gradient on one hill. I'll get stronger .



Brilliant. If it's too hard, gear down for six months or so. It's largely a different way of riding, working with the bike rather than forcing it. Aerodynamics is critical. Keep narrow and low.


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## Bark clark (31 Oct 2014)

DaveS said:


> Brilliant. If it's too hard, gear down for six months or so. It's largely a different way of riding, working with the bike rather than forcing it. Aerodynamics is critical. Keep narrow and low.


Thankyou for the helpful information. I could change over to my 17t freewheel or even get a 17t fixed. Although it's not too hard going so ill keep at it for now .
I was trying to keep low on Wednesday but it was a bit uncomfortable. But I'm still fiddling about with my set up!


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