# Wibble



## Dogtrousers (18 Oct 2021)

...


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## cougie uk (18 Oct 2021)

I can't see any way other than having ample clearance between guards and tyres. My gravel bike has 32 mm tyres and full guards and no issues. 
Pal has clip ons as you described and gets clogged with 23mm tyres.


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## MichaelW2 (18 Oct 2021)

Remove the wheels, clean the mudguards like new and spray on some wax furniture polish to the underside. See if mud sticks.


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## grldtnr (18 Oct 2021)

MichaelW2 said:


> Remove the wheels, clean the mudguards like new and spray on some wax furniture polish to the underside. See if mud sticks.


Try fashioning some tyre skimmers out of coathanger wire, have it drag on the tyre, it's an old trick ,used to discourage picking up flints and thorns in the tyres, might work? 
You will have to ingenious on where you mount them , but behind the BB my best bet,or some form of scraper.


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## davidphilips (18 Oct 2021)

Had the same issues and even had an issue with mud etc sticking around the front wheel and fork on a bike with tight clearances and no mudguards fitted, my solution built up a winter bike with lots of room around permintally fitted mudguards.

What i have noticed allow i dont like or have a bike with disc brakes all seem to have great clearances around the wheels.


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## a.twiddler (18 Oct 2021)

+1 for @ MichaelW2's suggestion. I used to use tyre savers back in the day and they had variable results in preventing punctures but a secondary effect was that they helped to prevent mud build up on the tyre as long as you weren't squelching through a morass. You would have to work out a way to fit them to intercept the mud before the tyre entered the mudguard.


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## Beebo (18 Oct 2021)

grldtnr said:


> Try fashioning some tyre skimmers out of coathanger wire, have it drag on the tyre, it's an old trick ,used to discourage picking up flints and thorns in the tyres, might work?
> You will have to ingenious on where you mount them , but behind the BB my best bet,or some form of scraper.


Does that work?
Isn’t this just another thing to get clogged up and risk getting tangled into the mechanism.


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## simongt (18 Oct 2021)

a.twiddler said:


> tyre savers back in the day


The Carleton tyre saver you talk of came in two models; one that attached to the brake mount bolts and another with springs that clipped anywhere on the mudguards. for me, the latter were better as they were easy to put on and off.


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## I like Skol (18 Oct 2021)

Surely the obvious solution is that it is time for a new bike?


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## simongt (18 Oct 2021)

I like Skol said:


> Surely the obvious solution is that it is time for a new bike?


Or one with better tyre / mudguard clearance - ?


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## fossyant (18 Oct 2021)

Simple answer, after a ride, hose off the underside of the guard. Fixed. I do this on my commuter MTB, that includes canal mud. Never had mine clog. Just hose them after a ride.


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## fossyant (18 Oct 2021)

A hose is literally 20 second job for both guards.


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## Brandane (18 Oct 2021)

fossyant said:


> A hose is literally 20 second job for both guards.


Which is great.... unless you live in a second floor flat with no outside tap . And no, I'm not putting a bike in the shower....


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## grldtnr (18 Oct 2021)

Beebo said:


> Does that work?
> Isn’t this just another thing to get clogged up and risk getting tangled into the mechanism.


Dunno , let's find out.....


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## fossyant (18 Oct 2021)

Brandane said:


> Which is great.... unless you live in a second floor flat with no outside tap . And no, I'm not putting a bike in the shower....


A brush down before you go in ? Pump powered sprayer ?


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## grldtnr (18 Oct 2021)

I like Skol said:


> Surely the obvious solution is that it is time for a new bike?


Not everyone has room or money for another bike, I firmly believe in the notion of N~+1, multiple by how stuffed the bike shed, and bank balance.....


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## Ian H (18 Oct 2021)

Can you adjust the stays so the the clearance at the back of the mudguard is the same or less than the clearance at the brake bridge?


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## rivers (18 Oct 2021)

Will a set of mudguards for slightly wider tyres fit?


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## I like Skol (18 Oct 2021)

Fit them properly and they won't rub.
I've been running the same set of SKS guards over 10 yrs on two bikes and they still stay where you put them (crashes and ham fisted bike shed interactions excepted). I also run them as close to the tyre as possible for aesthetic and toe-overlap reasons.


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## Chislenko (18 Oct 2021)

I have had some dried up sheep droppings in my front mudguard for the last three rides.

The tyre wears it away, I don't do anything.

It's only when it is first picked up and wet it makes a noise but I can live with it based on the knowledge that friction is more powerful than sheep sh-t😃


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## Low Gear Guy (18 Oct 2021)

Have you tried MTB mudguards which have a single bolt to secure them on place. In stock at SJS for 700 size wheels.


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## Rooster1 (18 Oct 2021)

I struggle with 25s for clearance, though they are Marathon Plus with a tread. I am on stock Giant Defy Mudguards that disintegrate after a few hundred miles.


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## ebikeerwidnes (18 Oct 2021)

Rooster1 said:


> I am on stock Giant Defy Mudguards that disintegrate after a few hundred miles.


Is that a design feature???
drops the whole mudguard plus mud off the wheel and away - problem cleared!!

and it reduces weight and drag at the same time

maybe someone should start a business selling mudguards that come in layers and you can drop the bottom layer off at the tough of a button!!

a bit like the F1 driver ripping a strip off their visor

I'm full of these brilliant ideas!


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## I like Skol (18 Oct 2021)

Low Gear Guy said:


> Have you tried MTB mudguards which have a single bolt to secure them on place. In stock at SJS for 700 size wheels.
> View attachment 614130


Great feature on that rear guard, dumping all the crud and water onto your front mech and bottom bracket......


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## a.twiddler (18 Oct 2021)

Smaller wheels? With luck the brakes will reach, otherwise it's new brakes, maybe cables too. Also there's tyres etc. And then, perhaps less choice in tyres available. Alternatively, the tried and tested coathanger wire.


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## Moodyman (18 Oct 2021)

Get your mudguards as close to the tyre as possible without them touching, and allowing for flexing during normal riding conditions. This minimises the gap and thus, the amount of mud that can climb up the tyres/mudguard.

You will still get fine grit and that will grind away after a few wheel rotations, but leaf mulch, mud and twigs will be minimised. Twigs are the real danger as a trapped one will send you over the bars. In Autumn lots of twigs hide under the leaves.


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## Ian H (18 Oct 2021)

Interestingly, steel guards, such as Gilles Berthoud's, seem to weigh no more than SKS chromoplastic ones, and are far more rigid.


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## youngoldbloke (18 Oct 2021)

I always carried a teaspoon - the perfect tool - to scrape out the crud when I rode a Ribble 'blue' winter bike with guards Despite being advertised as 'winter' or 'audax' bikes they had notoriously close clearance with anything bigger than 23mm tyres.


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## Supersuperleeds (18 Oct 2021)

There are two solutions available to you:

1) Remove the mudguards and throw them away;
2) If you insist you need mudguards, stop riding through mud and other sticky shoot.


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## craigwend (18 Oct 2021)

Supersuperleeds said:


> There are two solutions available to you:
> 
> 1) Remove the mudguards and throw them away;
> 2) If you insist you need mudguards, stop riding through mud and other sticky shoot.



3) '- I ran 25s for a few years and it went away. It has only come back because I've returned to 28s' - answer = go back to 25 with mudguards...


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## Chislenko (18 Oct 2021)

craigwend said:


> 3) '- I ran 25s for a few years and it went away. It has only come back because I've returned to 28s' - answer = go back to 25 with mudguards...



4) If you don't remove the existing mud there will be no room for any new mud.


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## craigwend (18 Oct 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> There are 28s on my bike right now. Quite new. I need to wear them out first.


Or have one set of 25c for 'winter' and your 28c for 'summer' & then they'll last twice as long


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## Blue Hills (18 Oct 2021)

Moodyman said:


> Get your mudguards as close to the tyre as possible without them touching, and allowing for flexing during normal riding conditions. This minimises the gap and thus, the amount of mud that can climb up the tyres/mudguard.
> 
> Twigs are the real danger as a trapped one will send you over the bars. In Autumn lots of twigs hide under the leaves.


Shouldn't happen with sks guards - they have an instant quick release. I would never fit any guards that didn't have this.


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## Dogtrousers (18 Oct 2021)

Blue Hills said:


> Shouldn't happen with sks guards - they have an instant quick release. I would never fit any guards that didn't have this.


In fact, mine let go just a few weeks ago. A big stick somehow managed to jump up and wedge itself in my front wheel.


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## Blue Hills (18 Oct 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> In fact, mine let go just a few weeks ago. A big stick somehow managed to jump up and wedge itself in my front wheel.


Yep, has happened to me at least twice, once flying down a hill. Both times they released before i even knew about any stick. Excellent system.


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## Ajax Bay (18 Oct 2021)

grldtnr said:


> Try fashioning some tyre skimmers out of coathanger wire, have it drag on the tyre, it's an old trick ,used to discourage picking up flints and thorns in the tyres, might work?


Have you done this, or just read about it, or is it just a cunning idea? bitd these were around but fitted to a non-guarded wheel secured by the rim brake bolt and nut (at fork crown/seatstay bridge). Shown to have no anti-puncture merit (which is why they became extinct).


a.twiddler said:


> Smaller wheels? With luck the brakes will reach, otherwise it's new brakes, maybe cables too. Also there's tyres etc. And then, perhaps less choice in tyres available.


Have you tried to fit "smaller wheels" to a bike, or just read about it? If 'yes' tell us how it went.


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## youngoldbloke (18 Oct 2021)

Ajax Bay said:


> Have you done this, or just read about it, or is it just a cunning idea? bitd these were around but fitted to a non-guarded wheel secured by the rim brake bolt and nut (at fork crown/seatstay bridge). Shown to have no anti-puncture merit (which is why they became extinct).


Yes, bitd I used them, 'tub savers' as they were known. I don't know whether they worked or not, but I don't recall many punctures while using them, or having to stick the spare tub on the wheel, relying on the glue residue to keep it there! Never heard of them being used to keep mud off the tyre. Theory was they would knock the thorn or flint or whatever off the tyre before it had time to penetrate.


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## recumbentpanda (18 Oct 2021)

My recumbents both have 20” front wheels. They seem no better or worse that the 26” rears for picking up mud. I do try to set up my guards so that clearance is tighter at the front than the back on the theory that if the gap between guard and tire starts small and gets bigger, stuff is less likely to wedge in there.


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## PaulSB (18 Oct 2021)

Blue Hills said:


> Shouldn't happen with sks guards - they have an instant quick release. I would never fit any guards that didn't have this.


Can I ask why?

Sorry just seen your subsequent post.


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## PaulSB (18 Oct 2021)

I don't mean to be facetious but isn't the answer to ride in places which aren't covered in mud. It can't be very pleasant. I ride all winter with guards and I've never experienced a problem such as is described.

I can promise you we have more than our fair share of crappy roads in Lancashire.


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## Blue Hills (18 Oct 2021)

PaulSB said:


> I don't mean to be facetious but isn't the answer to ride in places which aren't covered in mud. It can't be very pleasant. I ride all winter with guards and I've never experienced a problem such as is described.
> 
> I can promise you we have more than our fair share of crappy roads in Lancashire.


no I've never had a problem but then i ride mostly hybrid type bikes.
I do know that some roadies fit very narrow guards - possibly something to do with the rulz or ideas of aesthetics.
Guards should be 10mm wider than the tyres.
A tad more doesn't do any harm.
I carry a fair amount of junk on rides but no coat hangers.


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## PaulSB (18 Oct 2021)

I have 35mm tyres with clearance for 47mm and use what I would call full length guards on the winter bike. I built this bike with winter in mind.

All the people I ride with regularly use retired summer bikes as winter bikes. They all use guards and never have a problem.







Bet you didn't expect that @Blue Hills 😂😂


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## Ming the Merciless (18 Oct 2021)

recumbentpanda said:


> My recumbents both have 20” front wheels. They seem no better or worse that the 26” rears for picking up mud. I do try to set up my guards so that clearance is tighter at the front than the back on the theory that if the gap between guard and tire starts small and gets bigger, stuff is less likely to wedge in there.



Shouldn’t that be other way round?


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## Blue Hills (18 Oct 2021)

PaulSB said:


> I have 35mm tyres with clearance for 47mm and use what I would call full length guards on the winter bike. I built this bike with winter in mind.
> 
> All the people I ride with regularly use retired summer bikes as winter bikes. They all use guards and never have a problem.
> 
> ...


No I didn't  I imagined you were on some super slimline thing.


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## PaulSB (18 Oct 2021)

Blue Hills said:


> No I didn't  I imagined you were on some super slimline thing.


I do have a Cervelo for riding in decent weather. I only put her away two weeks ago.

The Kinesis I built for good weather gravel riding, without guards, and as a winter bike. It does both very well and is the best winter bike I've owned. Can still average 16/17mph which is more than fast enough for winter.

You can probably see it's also set up for short tours.


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## faster (18 Oct 2021)

grldtnr said:


> Try fashioning some tyre skimmers out of coathanger wire, have it drag on the tyre, it's an old trick ,used to discourage picking up flints and thorns in the tyres, might work?
> You will have to ingenious on where you mount them , but behind the BB my best bet,or some form of scraper.



Surely a skimmer mounted behind the BB would only be effective at preventing mudguard clogging when you are riding the bike backwards?


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## cougie uk (18 Oct 2021)

PaulSB said:


> I don't mean to be facetious but isn't the answer to ride in places which aren't covered in mud. It can't be very pleasant. I ride all winter with guards and I've never experienced a problem such as is described.
> 
> I can promise you we have more than our fair share of crappy roads in Lancashire.



It got very muddy at the weekend. I found plenty of muddy roads. In not sure how you'd avoid them short of turning around as soon as you find them. You don't need to go out looking for mud.


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## grldtnr (19 Oct 2021)

faster said:


> Surely a skimmer mounted behind the BB would only be effective at preventing mudguard clogging when you are riding the bike backwards?


If riding fixed, yes! Depends on what to mount and where really.
I've not done it, but old enough to see the use before 'tubs' went out of fashion.


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## Blue Hills (19 Oct 2021)

PaulSB said:


> I do have a Cervelo for riding in decent weather. I only put her away two weeks ago.
> 
> The Kinesis I built for good weather gravel riding, without guards, and as a winter bike. It does both very well and is the best winter bike I've owned. Can still average 16/17mph which is more than fast enough for winter.
> 
> You can probably see it's also set up for short tours.


Nice
when you say "built-up" you mean you put the bits together yourself?
I had the idea that you got the lbs to do most things
am also intrigued, at the risk of getting too intimate, as to why I would be/was surprised at you riding such a beast.
Back to the bike - am impresesd by the daylight i can see under the guards - no coathangers in the seatpack for you.


>>You can probably see it's also set up for short tours.

Can't see a rack. Is the fork carbon? You plan to attach things to it?


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## Blue Hills (19 Oct 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> I'll stick to the turbo, then.


can we see a pic of this bike with the guards?
As paul says, no shortage of muck on roads in his parts - definitely compared to south east london.


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## MichaelW2 (19 Oct 2021)

Rooster1 said:


> I struggle with 25s for clearance, though they are Marathon Plus with a tread. I am on stock Giant Defy Mudguards that disintegrate after a few hundred miles.


I bet those nominal 25mm M+ tyres are wider than some of the racier 28mm models.


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## T4tomo (19 Oct 2021)

MichaelW2 said:


> I bet those nominal 25mm M+ tyres are wider than some of the racier 28mm models.


its not so much wider as higher, as the nuke proof lead protection is quite thick


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## Fab Foodie (19 Oct 2021)

Have to say haven ridden with full guards and long mudflaps on the Rourke for years with 28mm tyres that even with tight clearances have never had any clogging even when out in the sticks.
However, recently have been riding without and fitted a Zefal-type whale-tail to stop the diarrhea strip and protect the saddle-bag with a view to running with 32mm in the future for added comfort over our increasingly schitty road surfaces (the Rourke's 853's quite stiff).








There may be some days when I'm going to regret this and it does lead to more wear and tear on the drive train with all the extra crud, but it may be worth it


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## Blue Hills (19 Oct 2021)

Is this a problem on just the front or back @Dogtrousers or both?


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## Blue Hills (19 Oct 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> Just note that I settled on a a plan - back on page 2 or something in response to @IanH 's post.
> 
> So do carry on discussing. But I'm no longer actively looking for solutions.


ah - sorry.


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## a.twiddler (19 Oct 2021)

Ajax Bay said:


> Have you done this, or just read about it, or is it just a cunning idea? bitd these were around but fitted to a non-guarded wheel secured by the rim brake bolt and nut (at fork crown/seatstay bridge). Shown to have no anti-puncture merit (which is why they became extinct).
> 
> Have you tried to fit "smaller wheels" to a bike, or just read about it? If 'yes' tell us how it went.


I used to use tyresavers which generally fitted to the brake bolt, being of a finer wire than coathanger wire. The wire that fitted to the brake bolt
was connected to the wire that rested across the tyre by a fine piece of clear plastic tube each side so the wire could rise or fall with any imperfections on the tyre surface. I wore a few of them out over the years as the abrasive grit that was carried round by the tyre wore away at the wire where it rested on the tyre. I was able to fit them under the mudguard at the brake bolt because I had enough clearance, unlike the OP.
I never needed to try alternative fittings such as at the ends of the mudguards. They did need rechecking or adjusting from time to time to make sure they were still resting on the tyre centrally. I have seen thorns and flints flicked out by the tyresavers so they weren't completely useless but they weren't a 100% deterrent.

Although not strictly relevant to the OP's situation I have changed from 27 X1 1/4 wheels to 700C wheels in search of a better tyre choice when the former were becoming less common on new bikes. Mind you, that was back in 1983 when I was having my frame refurbished and components upgraded in any case. The result, for me at least, was highly satisfactory.I have rarely had issues with mud clogging mudguards (and with that particular bike, the increased clearance inside the mudguards after changing the wheels made that even more unlikely.) I have had mudguards clogged with snow, however. The only solution to that is probably, no mudguards. 

More recently, I did consider for a while seeing if it was possible to fit 26" wheels to my 700C disc braked tourer as due to the discs, swopping them would have been easier. I'd read about it being done on the Cycling UK forum. I might also have to consider such things as shorter cranks to compensate for the (relatively small) drop in BB height, though just riding it with lower cornering clearance in mind would also have worked, and slightly lower gearing due to the smaller wheels. With the same cassette on the back, it might even have been possible to swap the wheels over summer and winter.

In the end, apart from a slightly lower stand over height and maybe handier handling in tight spaces, the cost/ benefit ratio wasn't enough of an incentive over my 700C set up to justify it when it's a nicely balanced bike and fulfilled 95% of my cycling needs. The thought resurfaced a few times over the years and then along came recumbents into my life which put everything into a whole new perspective.

Generally speaking, whatever my tyres, I like mudguards.


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## presta (19 Oct 2021)

You could always try this


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## grldtnr (19 Oct 2021)

presta said:


> You could always try this
> View attachment 614242


No, no,no, no , no, no to the power of Em2 × by 3.147......NO!


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## I like Skol (19 Oct 2021)

grldtnr said:


> No, no,no, no , no, no to the power of Em2 × by 3.147......NO!


He means yes!


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## Tiger10 (20 Oct 2021)

The specialized sl7 looks to have plenty of clearance , time to change?


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## GuyBoden (21 Oct 2021)

I do think that very long mudflaps at the front and rear do help to decrease the amount of mud getting between the tyre and mudguard.


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## cougie uk (21 Oct 2021)

GuyBoden said:


> I do think that very long mudflaps at the front and rear do help to decrease the amount of mud getting between the tyre and mudguard.


Flaps are great for stopping spray but not sure about decreasing mud. Surely the mud is already on the tyre ? Or does the flap scrape the tyre ?


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## Richard A Thackeray (23 Oct 2021)

When I was using my blue Ribble, the largest that took with mudguards was a '23'
Even then, they were close

Which was ironic, as they invariably marketed it as a 'Winter Bike'

One day, I was out, & fairly close to home, into a headwind
I was getting slower, & I just assumed wind & tiredness
Then the noise started!!

The rear guard had clogged, & was rubbing on the tyre, at the chainstay bridge!







I don't have such issues, with the CGR, as I run a '28' on there (was Durano, now Marathons)

This scraped, but was too soft to clog!






This wasn't taken the same day, but this is about my limit for the ride home, if I ride along the riverbank (Calder) & through NewLand Woods


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## PaulSB (24 Oct 2021)

Blue Hills said:


> Nice
> when you say "built-up" you mean you put the bits together yourself?
> I had the idea that you got the lbs to do most things
> *am also intrigued, at the risk of getting too intimate, as to why I would be/was surprised at you riding such a beast.
> ...


Apologies Blue Hills, I meant to reply to this and then found myself very unwell and not up to doing anything much. All better now. It was a little joke really based on our previous chats when I think you've said you thought I was an out and out roadie meaning I might not want to be on a heavier perhaps more practical bike - especially as she's laden with mudguards, a rear pack, a front pack, lights etc!!!!!

The fork is carbon and no I don't plan to attach anything to it for no reason other than I'm unlikely to carry that much stuff. The fork does have three hex bolts so I imagine there is some type of luggage which could be safely attached? Perhaps you would think otherwise? There isn't a rack attached but I do have one which would fit and various bits of now rather scruffy luggage which would fit. I can nicely accommodate a Restrap Holster Saddlebag under the seat - I got the bag, holster etc for a bargain £60 at the summer factory sale. 

Bit too much daylight at the top of the guards perhaps? Might need dropping down a bit.

There's the start of a plan to use this beauty on a ride to Cape Wrath next summer. Only chat at the moment but I'm hopeful. 

She's a real favourite of mine, one of the best two bikes I've had the pleasure to own. When I talk of "built up" I mean after I identified the frame I wanted, that took six months, I sat down with my LBS discussed what I wanted to get from this bike and the LBS then made recommendations and we chose equipment and "built up" the bike this way. I guess the phrase really means someone did the work themselves - not so in my case!!!!


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## antnee (27 Oct 2021)

Well its that time of year again down in Somerset where the tractors haul loads of muck to spread, so we get clogged up frequently, Strange I never thought of the metal coat hanger solution. I can usually be seen grovelling around at the side of the road looking for bits of thin strong twigs to poke under the front brake where the mud seems to collect this is with 25mm tyres fitted. Though some people are still riding with no guards!


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## fatjel (27 Oct 2021)

I have a Spa Steel Audax with full mudguards 
Only time I had trouble was when I tried 28s 
I put the 25s back on
far be it from me to give advice but .....


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## Blue Hills (27 Oct 2021)

fatjel said:


> I have a Spa Steel Audax with full mudguards
> Only time I had trouble was when I tried 28s
> I put the 25s back on
> far be it from me to give advice but .....


my advice is to ride a bike which when you want it to will take tyres up to 28 or wider.
I do have a nice hybrid set up with narrow guards which will only take 28 because of that - but it could take up to 38 with ease with appropriate guards. Excellent bike - fine for Audaxes. It's also the favourite bike of @raleighnut I think.


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## raleighnut (27 Oct 2021)

Blue Hills said:


> my advice is to ride a bike which when you want it to will take tyres up to 28 or or wider.
> I do have a nice hybrid set up with narrow guards which will only take 28 because of that - but it could take up to 38 with ease with appropriate guards. Excellent bike - fine for Audaxes. It's also the favourite bike of @raleighnut I think.


Yep the Ridgeback, limiting factor with tyres are the Chainstays which are quite tight but I only run 28s on that bike, mudguards on it are clip on 'Flingers' not full guards but they keep the worst off.
The only bike with full SKS mudguards is the Raleigh 'Equipe' which has had several iterations but is now a light Tourer/Audax bike,


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## fatjel (27 Oct 2021)

This wide tyres thing is just a marketing ploy to get you all to buy new bikes to fit the modern fat tyre theory
seems to be working :-)


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## cougie uk (27 Oct 2021)

fatjel said:


> This wide tyres thing is just a marketing ploy to get you all to buy new bikes to fit the modern fat tyre theory
> seems to be working :-)


And pothole manufacturers are in on it too.


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## Blue Hills (27 Oct 2021)

fatjel said:


> This wide tyres thing is just a marketing ploy to get you all to buy new bikes to fit the modern fat tyre theory
> seems to be working :-)


except you might not have to buy a new bike of course if you hadn't followed the earlier fad.


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## Blue Hills (28 Oct 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> Only problem with that is it can't be applied to a pre existing bike.
> 
> I'm not buying a whole new bike just to fix this issue. That would be insane.
> I'll just go back to 25s next time I change tyres. I can't tell any difference between them and 28s


buying a new bike is insane?
what is this?


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## T4tomo (28 Oct 2021)

fatjel said:


> This wide tyres thing is just a marketing ploy to get you all to buy new bikes to fit the modern fat tyre theory
> seems to be working :-)





Blue Hills said:


> except you might not have to buy a new bike of course if you hadn't followed the earlier fad.



Couldn't agree more 27x 1 3/8th, pretty similar width to the 700 x 35mm on my modern gravel bike. The side pull caliper has a lot to answer for answer for. 
Disc brakes aren't the only solution for getting fat tires on "road" bikes. Long live the centre pull caliper & the canti.




*small disclaimer I changed these tyres for some 27 1 1/8th (28.6mm in new money)


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## Blue Hills (28 Oct 2021)

T4tomo said:


> Couldn't agree more 27x 1 3/8th, pretty similar width to the 700 x 35mm on my modern gravel bike. The side pull caliper has a lot to answer for answer for.
> Disc brakes aren't the only solution for getting fat tires on "road" bikes. Long live the centre pull caliper & the canti.
> View attachment 615425
> 
> *small disclaimer I changed these tyres for some 27 1 1/8th (28.6mm in new money)


agree - though you forgot the V brake of course - I know it's considered ugly/so no non rulze by some but I find it very accommodating.


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## Blue Hills (28 Oct 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> I have no plans to buy another. I'm not entirely ruling it out - after all my bike may get nicked or broken, or something like that, but unless that happens I'm sticking with the one I've got. I do have vague plans to get rid of the crap one that I haven't ridden for about 5 years.


what's the "crap one"? will it take wider tyres?


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