# Are old (70's 80's) Road bikes any good?



## Sam Kennedy (14 Oct 2009)

I'm thinking of getting a new road bike, and maybe an older one just because I don't have too much to spend on a bike.

I was wondering if bikes from the 70's and 80's could still be of any use now?

What would be the pros/cons of riding an older bike compared to spending £200-£300 on a brand new road bike?

Cheers,

Sam


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## peanut (14 Oct 2009)

frames from the 70's and 80's are likely to be steel and some of them can be excellent. many are still sought after by collectors to build retro original spec bikes so their price has risen in the past two years.

Provided the frame and forks are straight and true, sound without cracks or dents and of a good tubeset, ie Reynolds 531 or 531c or better then you can't go far wrong.

More importantly you need to look at the age and quality of the bike's components.
If these are 20-30 years old they are *likely* to be worn out and unreliable.  
I would suggest you go for a bike that has at least 8 speed gearing preferably 9 speed and get someone that builds and maintains their own bikes to check the bike over for you before you buy.


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## I am Spartacus (14 Oct 2009)

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Classic-Light...s_GL?hash=item33563c4b6a&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Have a look at that one... very tidy.. owner has the sound of an enthusiast as well..
compare it to an inferior new bike in that really low entry level mark


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## jimboalee (14 Oct 2009)

So what's this baby worth??? 

Full 531 Pug PX10LE from 1974.

Brooks cutaway Pro.

6 speed screw-on block.

10.25 kg with quills, clips and straps.


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## peanut (14 Oct 2009)

not sure what you are asking here Jimbo ? 
Are you offering your bike for sale to the op ?
or trying to advertise it on his thread ?
or just fishing for an evaluation ?

OP is asking if 70's and 80's bikes are a viable alternative to purchase as apposed to a new bottom of the range bike .



jimboalee said:


> So what's this baby worth???
> 
> Full 531 Pug PX10LE from 1974.
> 
> ...


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## Davidc (14 Oct 2009)

I can't add much to Peanut's post, but...

Be aware that many but not all bikes from that era have steel wheel rims (in the wet you may as well cut the brake cable!)

Watch out for rusting.

If you're after cheap cycling I'd say go for later 80s with alloy 700c size rims. If you do as Peanut suggests and look for 8 speed or higher at the back the width of the hub means the chainstays are wide enough for current kit, and there's a good chance the wheels are already 700c.

That looks a nice machine Jimbo. In the 70s Pug made some good machinery. I rode one for 20 years and never once regretted buying it.


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## wafflycat (14 Oct 2009)

The answer is somne are, some aren't. If you know what to look for you can get a decent bike.


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## threebikesmcginty (14 Oct 2009)

Davidc said:


> ....width of the hub means the chainstays are wide enough for current kit, and there's a good chance the wheels are already 700c.



You can always widen the chainstays if they aren't wide enough, levering them apart gently and evenly with a length of timber. I did and it works!


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## beanzontoast (14 Oct 2009)

threebikesmcginty said:


> You can always widen the chainstays if they aren't wide enough, levering them apart gently and evenly with a length of timber. I did and it works!



I did too, but you really have got to be careful not to distort the frame geometry.

All told, it may be better for the OP to look for a bike that doesn't need this doing.


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## threebikesmcginty (14 Oct 2009)

beanzontoast said:


> I did too, but you really have got to be careful not to distort the frame geometry.
> 
> All told, it may be better for the OP to look for a bike that doesn't need this doing.



probably right - maybe I'm just showing off!!


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## swee'pea99 (14 Oct 2009)

The answer to the OP is an emphatic yes. You can get some wonderful bikes from that era - and certainly at the £200-£300 level you're talking about, you'll do infinitely better with a well-chosen 2nd hand bike than new. Use google to checkout any likely candidates. Oh, and no offense Peanut, but it's simply not the case that 20-30 year old components will be shot. It depends what they are and how they've been used/stored. I have 20-25 year old Shimano 600 and 105 gear that still runs sweet as you could ask.


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## Liddington (14 Oct 2009)

+1 swee'pea 99. A little patience is required but there are some bargains out there. I got one from ebay that had only done 1000 miles and then sat in a shed for 30 years. Price - £73. OK it needed a stripdown, lubing and new tyres and tubes but what a superb result. So what if the spec is way out of date, 10 suntour gears is pretty good and the frame is outstanding. The only bind is lack of tyre choice for 27 1/4" wheels but I can live with that.


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## Garz (14 Oct 2009)

Show off!!


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## bigjim (14 Oct 2009)

There is some good stuff out there. I got this in mint virtually unused condition for £50. Beautiful 12 speed campag equipped ride. Will run forever.


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## wafflycat (14 Oct 2009)

bigjim said:


> There is some good stuff out there. I got this in mint virtually unused condition for £50. Beautiful 12 speed campag equipped ride. Will run forever.




That is a beautiful bicycle..


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## bigjim (14 Oct 2009)

Thankyou. Although it is not as pristine at the moment. It is used regularly and I recently completed an 80mile CTC club run on it. Unfortunately most of it in the pouring rain. The bike behaved impeccably though the rider was a bit dodgy.


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## raindog (14 Oct 2009)

bigjim said:


> There is some good stuff out there. I got this in mint virtually unused condition for £50. Beautiful 12 speed campag equipped ride. Will run forever.


That's gorgeous, especially for £50! Bloody big frame though!
My steel rebuild cost me about 400 euros in the end, but it looks beautiful and rides like a dream - worth every penny.


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## peanut (14 Oct 2009)

swee said:


> will [/B]be shot did I ?!
> 
> 
> 
> I wrote 'is likely to be'


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## swee'pea99 (14 Oct 2009)

'as usual'? Pish tush sirrah, i is not a nargumentative type. Tho' you do make it hard when you spout such tosh! 

"20-30 year old components will be useless in 90% of cases"

Will they buggery! 

As for downtube + friction (or SIS at best), well boo hoo! Nowt wrong with either.

I say again, choose carefully, do your homework, be patient, and you can get a £200 '80s bike that will crap on anything new at twice the price.


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## bigjim (14 Oct 2009)

How can unused 20/30 year old components be no good? I just do not understand that reasoning. My 30yr old bike above has now done several hundred miles in all weathers It is still on original tyres and tubes and I have not even had the dreaded P. Admittedly I know it's history as it was bought new in the 80s, used about twice and then dry stored. I greased and oiled it as a precaution, but that's it. I have modern bikes as well so I am not bias, but I have had niggling problems with the more expensive bikes. I'm probably quite hard on them as I weigh 14 stone+ and 6'2" hence the big frame. I find the older steel framed bike more comfortable for all day rides and would recommend them for simplicity and reliability. If you have the money and can easily afford a new modern bike fine. The industry needs the support, but do not be put off buying the older well maintained machine if you are on a budget. A good one will serve you well. They are simple to maintain and parts are plentiful and cheap.


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## jimboalee (15 Oct 2009)

[quote name='swee'pea99']'as usual'? Pish tush sirrah, i is not a nargumentative type. Tho' you do make it hard when you spout such tosh! 

"20-30 year old components will be useless in 90% of cases"

Will they buggery! 

As for downtube + friction (or SIS at best), well boo hoo! Nowt wrong with either.

I say again, choose carefully, do your homework, be patient, and you can get a £200 '80s bike that will crap on anything new at twice the price.[/QUOTE]

Don't get so bothered Swee'pea. I know for a fact that wheel cones from the seventies have at least twice the thickness of case hardening than that crap of today.
The cones in my Pug are ORIGINAL... The hub cups are ORIGINAL. The head races are ORIGINAL. The B/B cups are ORIGINAL. The Chainrings are ORIGINAL ( got spares but never needed them ).

What you have to remember is Trek, Giant, Spesh, etc, etc; not to mention Shimano would like to sell you lots of replacements in two to three years from your first purchase.
This is where the BIG profit margins are.


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## asterix (15 Oct 2009)

I'm just completing the rebuild of a 1987 British Eagle Touristique that I bought off ebay for £50 - will be rideable tomorrow (literally - will take pics)

Pre-rebuild I rode it a lot and it was such a pleasant machine to use I decided to give it the works even though I have 3 recently made bikes.

There is no trace of internal rust. I have replaced the DT shifters with bar-end jobs only because I was going from a 6 speed freewheel to 8 speed cassette and wanted to make things easier on very hilly rides. On the front I have given it a Schmidt dynahub so both original hubs have gone too.

I replaced the cup 'n' cone BB with a sealed unit but kept the Stronglight 80 chainset and front derailleur. The back derailleur was ok but going to indexed gears I changed it for a Shimano 105 long reach. Had to replace the original Modolo canti's when the blocks wore out for lack of replacements - maybe they are out there somewhere? - but kept the Modolo levers for which I found new rubbers for a tenner.


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

bigjim said:


> How can unused 20/30 year old components be no good? .



Read the post jim . 

I didn't say that 20-30 year old *unused* components would be no good did I ?!

I said that components that are 20-30 years old with no *provenance* (look it up) are *likely *to be US .

The op is not looking for a retro bike they are asking if a 20-30 year old bike could be a reasonable alternative to a new low end bike in terms of *cost saving*.



try to read what is written before jumping on the bandwaggon with all the other kneejerkers .

Read the original post and try to understand what is required by the op rather than use every post as an opportunity to vent your spleen.


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

bigjim said:


> Admittedly I know it's history as it was bought new in the 80s, used about twice and then dry stored. .



pretty exceptional wouldn't you say ? 
of course the components on your bike are likely to be serviceable but you miss the point. The bike in question has no provenance.
The majority of bikes from 30 years ago that have not been refurbished or maintained are likely to be well used abused rusty and not suitable for the op's needs, that is a fact.


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## 4F (15 Oct 2009)

Peanut, I have read the OP post and he asks what are the pro's and cons of a 70' / 80's bike compared to a new bike costing £ 200 / £ 300.

Given that the OP is looking to spend up to £ 300 then I would suggest that the OP will get much more for his money on an old school bike than a £ 300 new bike. 

If he said that he had £ 500 to spend then we are talking a different ball game.

Both my bikes have been purchased second hand. A 1980's dawes now converted into a fixed which cost £45 and 10 year peugeot for £200 which rides like a dream.


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

4F said:


> Peanut, I have read the OP post and he asks what are the pro's and cons of a 70' / 80's bike compared to a new bike costing £ 200 / £ 300.
> 
> Given that the OP is looking to spend up to £ 300 then I would suggest that the OP will get much more for his money on an old school bike than a £ 300 new bike.
> 
> ...



I agree entirely.

I am not disagreeing that an old bike can be a good bike.

I have a 1960 Carlton and a 1980 Ribble 653 myself.

I also have more than half a hundredweight of 1970'1980's and 1990's components lots of which are NOS in boxes.

I love classic bikes I have 4x classic frames still to build.

The newest bike that I have is 1980 


*I am not disagreeing that an old bike can be a good bike they can be simply the best in terms of ride quality and comfort in my opinion.*

All I am saying is that the op should make sure that the componentry of a 30 year old bike *IS* up to scratch


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## ASC1951 (15 Oct 2009)

asterix said:


> ... I have replaced the DT shifters ......both original hubs have gone too.
> 
> I replaced the cup 'n' cone BB ....The back derailleur was .....changed for a Shimano 105 long reach. Had to replace the original Modolo canti's ....


Ay, lad, it's been a grand axe, that - only three new heads and five new handles.


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## asterix (15 Oct 2009)

> All I am saying is that the op should make sure that the componentry of a 30 year old bike IS up to scratch



Very sensible! 

Of course modern stuff e.g. STI/Ergo levers are more complex than say, simple DT so the older stuff may well be easier to fix or adjust. 

Also, I find the old 6 speed blocks are quite adequate for non-competitive riding and more robust than the finer modern products.


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

ASC1951 said:


> Ay, lad, it's been a grand axe, that - only three new heads and five new handles.



 still got a good edge

1951 ......a great year that


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## jimboalee (15 Oct 2009)

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSmSTpRUeLs


20 years....


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## SimonC (15 Oct 2009)

If this is to race on Sam, and I think you do from your other posts, then I would go for something secondhand with Ergo/STI gear shifters. You dont need 11 speed, 8/9 speed perfectly fine.

Having to sit down and back the pressure off to change gear, especially climbs (like your recent hill climb) is a major pain in say a road race or hill climb, you lose time, gaps open etc.


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## swee'pea99 (15 Oct 2009)

peanut said:


> All I am saying is that the op should make sure that the componentry of a 30 year old bike *IS* up to scratch


Ah, if only that *were* all you said...

That aside, my last word, FWIW, is that you can get a damn fine bike off ebay for £100, if you choose carefully, do your homework, and are prepared to be patient. If you have £200 to spend, the world of fine '80s bikes is your lobster. 

At that kind of level and upwards, any bike you choose is likely to have started out with quality componentry - 600/105 or thereabouts - and been looked after by the kind of enthusiast who had several hundreds of pounds to spend on a serious bike back when several hundreds of pounds would buy you most of Lincolnshire. 

Good componentry lasts forever. Well, not forever, but decent 30 year old stuff that's received competent maintenance will be fine. Swap an email or three with the seller, to gauge what kind of person you're dealing with, and you should be ok.

It is of course possible to come a cropper. As it is buying a new bike. But the answer to your original question - Are old road bikes any good? - is some are, some aren't. But some that are are very good indeed. And many that are are way way better than anything you'll get new for that kind of money.


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## PpPete (15 Oct 2009)

beanzontoast said:


> I did too, but you really have got to be careful not to distort the frame geometry.
> 
> All told, it may be better for the OP to look for a bike that doesn't need this doing.




I've done it with timber too - but I prefer a length of M10 threaded rod, nuts & big washers. On a 531 frame you may need to force the drop outs to as much as 145 - 150mm apart, the spring back will take it to about 130mm which is what you want for a modern road wheel.
You can put a piece of string around headset and back to drop-outs to check it stays symetrical as you go.

Best is to have a second piece of rod, clamp one onto each drop out, check they line up so you know the drop outs are parallel after you've spread them - or use the rod as lever until they get there.

Whilst I agree it's better to look for a frame that doesnt need this, it is a lot easier job than dealing with stripped crank threads, stuck seat posts, milling out a non-standard head tube to accept a standard headset cups - all jobs I have had to do recently on old steel frames.


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## asterix (15 Oct 2009)

ASC1951 said:


> Ay, lad, it's been a grand axe, that - only three new heads and five new handles.



..and here is the 'axe' with new bits. Might need a bit of ergonomic tweaking before the ride tomorrow..


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

gorgeous colour. very midnight

Its a big frame 25"? you must have arms like an urangatan 

I had a 25" Carlton once and it was a very comfortable ride.

I really like the modern rims with classic steel frames they are a nice blend of old and new.

Very nice


asterix said:


> ..and here is the 'axe' with new bits. Might need a bit of ergonomic tweaking before the ride tomorrow..


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

[quote name='swee'pea99']

It is of course possible to come a cropper. As it is buying a new bike. .[/QUOTE]

it certainly is.

I always recommend second hand quality bikes (old or new) over modern new bikes if the budget is less than about £450 you should be able to get a much better bike.

The only reason i sometimes recommend a cheap new bike is where the purchaser is new to biking and has no practical skills or knowledge of bike maintainence. At least with a new bike they will benefit from a years warrantee and a free service etc


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## swee'pea99 (15 Oct 2009)

peanut said:


> Its a big frame 25"? you must have arms like an urangatan


You really must stop sweet-talking people 'nut - it's a bit nauseating.


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## asterix (15 Oct 2009)

swee said:


> is[/I] a big frame (62cm) and people often tell me I have arms like an Orangutan as I swing through the branches of trees.
> 
> ..but anyway it's nice to get a bit of praise. Cheers, peanut.


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## Over The Hill (15 Oct 2009)

I have no great experience with this but I bought a Felt F85 which was and still is about £700 new for £130 two years ago. At the time I think it was about five years old. It has 3x8 gears and sdi shifters. Apart from a new saddle and tyres (choice not necessity) I have spent nothing on it.

So I would say on the price side - why get something older? I think the chances of problems, rust and obsolete spares will mean you have more chance of having to spend on it. 

If however you want an old bike because you want an old bike then that is a different matter. 

A bit like a car - 10 year old ones are dirt cheap so why get a 20 year old one?


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## jimboalee (15 Oct 2009)

asterix said:


> ..and here is the 'axe' with new bits. Might need a bit of ergonomic tweaking before the ride tomorrow..



Is that a 32 ring and a 28 sprocket as a low gear?

It certainly needs a gear that low on a bike that heavy


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## jimboalee (15 Oct 2009)

jimboalee said:


> Is that a 32 ring and a 28 sprocket as a low gear?
> 
> It certainly needs a gear that low on a bike that heavy



23 1/2lb I guestimate.

Nice choice of gearing for an Audax jobbie.

30" lowest for a 20% hill.


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## asterix (15 Oct 2009)

D'you know I can't remember exactly what the gearing is! 

However, it is the same as pre-renovation which means I can ride up a 33% hill in Bransdale (North Yorks) without much effort other than keeping the front wheel on the ground. So it'll be under 30". You may be right about the ring, but the sprocket is more likely bigger than 28. 

Being a tourer, it is a heavy-ish bike, made from 531ST but I don't mind heavy bikes, having done the tourist Raid Pyrenean on a laden tourer, i.e. a 28lb bike plus 20kg of luggage. I want to do the 100 hour one next year on a 24lb machine, unladen this time.


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

[quote name='swee'pea99']You really must stop sweet-talking people 'nut - it's a bit nauseating. [/QUOTE]

you should hear my chat-up lines for the ladies


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## fossyant (15 Oct 2009)

1980's bike are rubbish, just like this one....

Not for sale though......... although you can pick up some top notch machines, and like folk say, it's the engine that counts.....


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## bigjim (15 Oct 2009)

> try to read what is written before jumping on the bandwaggon with all the other kneejerkers .
> 
> Read the original post and try to understand what is required by the op rather than use every post as an opportunity to vent your spleen.



You're a sweetalker. Venting my spleen? LOL. Don't think so. Just putting forward an experienced opinion. May not agree with yours but I still have a right to express it.
You have such a nice way of encouraging other new members to post. I don't know, whatever happened to good manners?


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## peanut (15 Oct 2009)

bigjim said:


> Just putting forward an experienced opinion. May not agree with yours but I still have a right to express it.


ah but you're not just putting forward your opinion are you jim ? 

thats the point you see.

What you did was post a critism of my opinion ....there is a difference. 


I suggest in future you read the post properly (I didn't say anywhere that all 30 yr old components would be u/s )
and try to post your own opinion *without* criticising anothers if you can


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## Hacienda71 (15 Oct 2009)

I love my 79 Eddy Merckx bought it and sorted it to make sure i wanted to ride a road bike regularly has been modernized but frame and forks original.


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## bigjim (15 Oct 2009)

> ah but you're not just putting forward your opinion are you jim ?
> 
> thats the point you see.
> 
> What you did was post a critism of my opinion ....there is a difference.


Incorrect. I said I did not understand. That is not a criticism of you. It may even be a criticism of myself if anything, as I stated I did not understand your point. Even so if you did see it as a criticism [which it is certainly not] you do not need to post in such a bad mannered and offensive way. By the way that is a criticism! I was always taught manners cost nothing. I suppose we all have different ways of dealing with things.


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## threebikesmcginty (15 Oct 2009)

Just sniffing around on ebay and this came up - Reynolds 653 for £50, ok day left on it but the foundation of a good bike there for not a lot of dosh...at the mo.

Collection only so a bit far for you but shows you what's about.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ribble-Mens-R...UK_Bikes_GL?hash=item2a01c2a791#ht_500wt_1182


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## mistral (15 Oct 2009)

swee said:


> I'd agree with Swee'pea
> 
> 
> I'm riding a 1980 Holdsworth - had the frame from new, along with same vintage Brooks saddle, that apart not much is original.
> ...


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## fossyant (15 Oct 2009)

threebikesmcginty said:


> Just sniffing around on ebay and this came up - Reynolds 653 for £50, ok day left on it but the foundation of a good bike there for not a lot of dosh...at the mo.
> 
> Collection only so a bit far for you but shows you what's about.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ribble-Mens-R...UK_Bikes_GL?hash=item2a01c2a791#ht_500wt_1182




Having ridden 531c, 653 and Columbus SLX...... 653 is good, much stiffer than 531c (competition), but not at SLX level - that was twice as expensive.....

PS I ride 653 and SLX now......


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## swee'pea99 (15 Oct 2009)

I got a 653 Dawes about six months ago, and anything else feels dull by comparison.

(Having said which, I should 'fess up that I've never ridden a modern bike - carbon, titanium, anything like that, so maybe they're even better...?)


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## asterix (16 Oct 2009)

A choice of grades is one of the attractions of steel for frame building. There are so many with different attributes. 

The bike I've just completed replaced a stolen 531 bog-standard job and when I got the stronger (slightly heavier) 531ST frame I realised it was better suited to my weight.

Roberts built me a bike in Columbus tubing with a compact style frame specced to flatter my hill-climbing abilities. Sure enough it is a lovely bike for hilly rides although the heavier British Eagle _may_ be slightly better on the descents.


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