# My new build, finally finished



## Panter (3 Jan 2010)

Well, a couple of months ago actually but I finally have a picture.








You simply wouldn't believe that money and heartache that I've poured into this thing.......


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## mickle (3 Jan 2010)

Bloody wow! That's a mighty fine bike you have there Chris. What bar/ stem/ post you running?


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## gaz (3 Jan 2010)

was it worth it?
it looks like a real beauty


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## Panter (4 Jan 2010)

Thanks guys 

Stem and bars are standard Easton gear, thanfully not the recall affected stuff though!
The post is an Empire NC-17



gaz said:


> was it worth it?



Yes and No.
The main aim was to build up a cheap bike and learn a lot about DIYing n the process.
To that end, it was successfull as I did learn a fair bit although there were more than a few jobs where I ended up with my tail between my legs at the LBS because I couldn't complete something.
Cost wise, No, it wasn't worth it. It cost me about fourty squillion pounds to complete (rough guesstimate, I haven't totaled it all and don't intend to ) but I could've got far better off fleabay for what I've spent.


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## 02GF74 (5 Jan 2010)

Panter said:


> Thanks guys
> 
> No, it wasn't worth it. It cost me about fourty squillion pounds to complete (rough guesstimate, I haven't totaled it all and don't intend to ) but I could've got far better off fleabay for what I've spent.



yep. par or the course.

what frame is it?

looks fine BTW.


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## 02GF74 (5 Jan 2010)

Panter said:


> Thanks guys
> 
> No, it wasn't worth it. It cost me about fourty squillion pounds to complete (rough guesstimate, I haven't totaled it all and don't intend to ) but I could've got far better off fleabay for what I've spent.



yep. par or the course.

what frame is it?

looks fine BTW.


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## spence (5 Jan 2010)

Frame's a Spech Enduro circa 2004. They used that ano colour for the S-Works so should have had a "Brain" but the seat stays is wrong/replaced.

Had one a few years back and was a great bike. Bearings are a little supseptable to grit etc. so keep a check on them. You can/could get a little gard to protect the shock.


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## spence (5 Jan 2010)

Frame's a Spech Enduro circa 2004. They used that ano colour for the S-Works so should have had a "Brain" but the seat stays is wrong/replaced.

Had one a few years back and was a great bike. Bearings are a little supseptable to grit etc. so keep a check on them. You can/could get a little gard to protect the shock.


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## Muddyfox (5 Jan 2010)

Stunning looking bike 

I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labour 

Simon


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## Muddyfox (5 Jan 2010)

Stunning looking bike 

I hope you enjoy the fruits of your labour 

Simon


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## Panter (6 Jan 2010)

Thanks all 

Spence, spot-on with the frame, thanks for the bearings tip I shall certainly keep an eye on them.

The rear shock normally wears a Lizrd skin actually. I know they are reputed to cause problems, but I'm going to wash it after every ride.
Sounds a lot of hassle I know but this bike won't actually see a lot of mileage as I live in the SE and my HT is the main bike.


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## spence (6 Jan 2010)

Chris,
One thing looking at your picture, make sure there is enough seatpost in the tube. Ideally have a small amount below the tube (but not enough to contact the shock), ie use all the seat tube to support the post. A friend didn't and it snapped.


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## Panter (6 Jan 2010)

Thanks for that, thats a scary picture!

The seat post does extend to the bottom of the tube on mine.
I bought a 400mm post which was too long so I cut it down and, being a bit of a tart, I've cut it to the angle of the bottom of the tube which is why it doesn't show.... 

That picture does serve as a very visual warning of the consequences if you get it wrong 

EDIT: Was he Ok? (the friend, not the bike)


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## 02GF74 (6 Jan 2010)

the seat tube welded on to one side is always going to be vulnerable to snapping.

I've had 2 posts snap on me - the last time I was climbing up a hill, then next thing I am on the ground behind the bike. the jagged end of post scraped my inner thigh but it could have been a lost worse - there is a big artery somewhere round there.

incidentally, that is same post design as on proflex - they have a little bump inside the seat tube to prevent andy chance of the post slipping down and into the shock.

I guess drilling a small hoke and fitting a bolt would serve the same purpose.


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## spence (6 Jan 2010)

Perversely the spesh, IIRC has a hole to view that the post is far enough down the tube.


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## Panter (6 Jan 2010)

02GF74 said:


> the seat tube welded on to one side is always going to be vulnerable to snapping.
> 
> I've had 2 posts snap on me - the last time I was climbing up a hill, then next thing I am on the ground behind the bike. the jagged end of post scraped my inner thigh but it could have been a lost worse - there is a big artery somewhere round there.
> 
> ...



The trouble is that I want to be able to lower my seat for descents.
It's all fine at the moment but if the seat does slip it will destroy the shock.

So far the only thing I've thought of is fitting a clamp to the seatpost itself to stop it slipping past a setpoint and hitting the shock, until I can scrape the pennies together for a gravity dropper anyway.


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## spence (6 Jan 2010)

Don't worry too much, mostly post slip a little at a time not drop completely so it should be noticeable. If by chance the base of the post dose hit the shock it will be on the body and not the piston so shouldn't do any damage. I have seen a rubber bump stop fitted to some shocks in this sort of design, may be worth looking out for one.


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## 02GF74 (7 Jan 2010)

spence said:


> Don't worry too much, mostly post slip a little at a time not drop completely so it should be noticeable.




I've had problems with posts slipping - one was due to grease and other was trying to use thin lightweight clamp.

what I do it paint a small red dot and then every once in a while take a peak to see if it has dropped.

ofcourse you can use other colours.


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## Panter (7 Jan 2010)

Thanks guys,

I believe the original brain would've come with a rubber stopper to fix to the shock, I may stick a blob of silicone on or similar.

My main worry is that I'll bottom out really hard and drive the seatpost straight through the shock but I'm probably worrying about nothing.


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## spence (7 Jan 2010)

Due to the FSR design there is very little vertical movement of the shock body, the travel is taken up along the length of the compression with only minimal swing movement in the link - which by the way if it’s the original sworks can be flipped to give more/less travel - so as the frame does not compress contact would be unlucky. But don’t worry the bike was very well designed and can handle any stuff in this country and most beyond, in my case the bike was far better than I was/am so was always well within its limits even when I thought I was pushing it.

 There used to be an animation on the speech site showing the movement but can’t find it now. The Enduro manual http://cdn.specialized.com/OA_MEDIA/pdf/manuals/04_Enduro_Tech_Manual.pdf shows the seat tube and bump stop.


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## Panter (7 Jan 2010)

Cool, thanks for that.
There does seem to be very minimal movement from the shock to the post, I did let all the air out of it and gave a few pushdowns on the seat and even with the post just a few mm's away it seemed Ok.

Just need the snow and ice to clear so I can give it a proper test run in Wales


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## spence (7 Jan 2010)

Enjoy Wales, it'll devour Afan etc.


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