# Tourney groupset upgrade to Caris/Sora: is it worth it?



## stevenfarthing (10 Aug 2017)

Hello everyone. I'm riding around on a Raleigh Airlite 100; 2014 limited edition which has a tourney groupset. I'm wondering if anyone has upgraded from this to Sora and found it worthwhile. I don't want to go out and buy a Sora groupset and find that the difference isn't worthwhile.


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## BrumJim (11 Aug 2017)

Does the Tourney have STI shifters? i.e. do you change gear from the brake levers, or separate down-tube shifters?

If, as I think, 2014 is the Tourney with 7 gears using down-tube shifters, then there will be a startling difference.
Just checked - Tourney is STI - ignore comment above.

Also, moving up to an 8 or 9 speed cassette will give you lots more options and availability on wheels, cassettes, chains, etc. I moved up from 2300 (Claris equivalent) to 105, and found a tremendous difference - like a new bike. The gears were so much nicer and easier to adjust. Although its probably the new wheels that helped me go just that little bit faster too.


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## bikingdad90 (11 Aug 2017)

Yes you will notice a difference, the shifting will be less clunky particularly if you purchase the new sora with hidden gear and brake cables. It's basically the old shimano 105.


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## ChrisEyles (11 Aug 2017)

I find the (late 90s) Tourney kit on my wife's bike a PITA to adjust, but having said that when it's all set up nicely it's perfectly OK to ride. 

The Sora groupset on my touring bike is the old style with exposed cables and while it's a tad on the clunky/agricultural side for feel, it has so far been pretty much bombproof and much easier to keep in good fettle (had to replace the RD after a slide on the drive-side a couple of icy winters ago and have replaced gear/brake cables once, but otherwise all working great after 6,000 miles or so). 

TBH I'd only bother upgrading if the current Tourney stuff is knackered, since you might as well get your money's worth out of it first. When you do reach that point though, Sora is a great point to upgrade to on the price/quality front.


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## stevenfarthing (11 Aug 2017)

BrumJim said:


> Does the Tourney have STI shifters? i.e. do you change gear from the brake levers, or separate down-tube shifters?
> 
> If, as I think, 2014 is the Tourney with 7 gears using down-tube shifters, then there will be a startling difference.
> 
> ...





BrumJim said:


> Does the Tourney have STI shifters? i.e. do you change gear from the brake levers, or separate down-tube shifters?
> 
> If, as I think, 2014 is the Tourney with 7 gears using down-tube shifters, then there will be a startling difference.
> Just checked - Tourney is STI - ignore comment above.
> ...


My Airlite has STI's using the break levers and a thumb control. It's my first bike in over 30 years and I have enjoyed rides of around 40 miles. But, I'm finding hills a challenge and have had to walk the bike up a few. It weighs 10.7 kl. The frame really suits me as it has a more upright geometry but only 7 cogs on the cassette. The upgrade to a sora groupset I'm told would be £360. Then some new wheels another £160.


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## BrumJim (11 Aug 2017)

You can often get bargains on the groupset. I don't know about the wheels, but they may be designed for a cassette for at least 8 speeds. Worth checking out.

When I upgraded, I had already bought a set of wheels that were a bit of a bargain, so wheels were no cost, other than the spacer which I no longer needed. I went for the 105 as it was a few steps up from the 2300. Anything more expensive would have been too fragile for my riding.


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## CanucksTraveller (11 Aug 2017)

So it'll cost 500 pounds to upgrade a 500 pounds bike... poor value that IMHO. I'd spend the 500 pounds on a better (used) road bike with better kit on it. You'll get a decent alu bike with 105 gear for that money.


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## BrumJim (11 Aug 2017)

If you get everything at list price, yes, too expensive. However, with a good bargain, it is a good choice. The Airlite gets some good reviews:
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-raleigh-airlite-100-11-41657/


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## stevenfarthing (11 Aug 2017)

CanucksTraveller said:


> So it'll cost 500 pounds to upgrade a 500 pounds bike... poor value that IMHO. I'd spend the 500 pounds on a better (used) road bike with better kit on it. You'll get a decent alu bike with 105 gear for that money.





CanucksTraveller said:


> So it'll cost 500 pounds to upgrade a 500 pounds bike... poor value that IMHO. I'd spend the 500 pounds on a better (used) road bike with better kit on it. You'll get a decent alu bike with 105 gear for that money.





BrumJim said:


> If you get everything at list price, yes, too expensive. However, with a good bargain, it is a good choice. The Airlite gets some good reviews:
> http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/road/product/review-raleigh-airlite-100-11-41657/


I paid £300 for the Airlite out of the box from CyclesUK. I have looked at the Raleigh Criterium which sells for £500 but has claris groupset and doesn't weigh much less.


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## CanucksTraveller (11 Aug 2017)

stevenfarthing said:


> I paid £300 for the Airlite out of the box from CyclesUK.



In that case it seems even worse value, personally I'd never spend more on an upgrade than I paid for the bike. If you really, really love the bike and can't part with it, and if you've got lots of money, then it's an option I guess. I still think buying a better used bike is a better option.


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## DRM (11 Aug 2017)

Hi stevenfarthing my first road bike since being a young 'un was a Carerra Zelos, with 7speed tourney on it, & as you say it gets a bit limiting as your ability to ride further increases, I actually was going to do what you are thinking of, but the cost is just not worth it, I managed to get a brand new Verenti Technique, with Sora (11-28 cassette & compact FSA chain ring set) it's Wiggles in house brand, for £350 in the end of season sale, if you tot up the price of the grouset, plus wheels ( I suspect yours will be a freewheel, not a freehub, as was the carerra) plus cables,cable ends & any specialist tools needed, it really isn't viable, perhaps a good second hand bike could serve you well.


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## JasD (11 Aug 2017)

Hi have a Claris drivetrain on my commuter but it's never felt that great, it's a bit clunky. It is however very reliable and performs it's job acceptably, it just feels clunky. So in terms of how it feels to operate, i'm not sure Claris would be that much of an "upgrade".


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## Vantage (11 Aug 2017)

CanucksTraveller said:


> In that case it seems even worse value, personally I'd never spend more on an upgrade than I paid for the bike. If you really, really love the bike and can't part with it, and if you've got lots of money, then it's an option I guess. I still think buying a better used bike is a better option.



It depends on the frame. The frame is the heart of any bike. If that one piece is a pile of sheite then no amount of money and upgrades will make it better.
If on the other hand, the bike handles beautifully, it's worth spending money on.
Maybe the op could take a test ride on a Claris equipped bike to see how much better the groupset performs and then decide if it's worth it.


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## davidphilips (11 Aug 2017)

Really dont think its a good idea upgrading from caris to sora unless you can get the parts cheap or perhaps buy used parts and sell your old groupset to keep the spend as low as you can.

Now if it was me i would buy another bike (a used one) and start a collection, money and space permitting, good luck with your cycling.


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## GlenBen (12 Aug 2017)

I would also say get a new bike, but since you say you like it, ill try to be more constructive.

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-sora-3500-9-speed-double-groupset-1/

Dont know if youre able to do the work yourself, but you can get a sora groupset much cheaper than 360 if you can. 

You can also get a decent set of wheels for under £100, something like these would be fine.
https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-pr-whls-rs010/#pid=29053


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## stevenfarthing (12 Aug 2017)

An issue for me and the Airlite is that my amazing and fantastic wife bought it for me by paying it off over several months after my post was cut at work. The shop kept it boxed out back until it was paid for in dribs and drabs. She thought having a bike would be good for me, so I have some emotional attachment to it. I'm also a leisure and recreational cyclist. I have just come across this interesting point of view about the tourney and claris groupset on Youtube. 

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OqhBtGSmx6w

I'm wondering now if I can just convert the Airlite to 8 ring cassette from the current 7.


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## GlenBen (12 Aug 2017)

I forgot to add, the other option you have is to just put a bigger cassette on the back, something like an 11-32. 
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...m_dm|pcrid|161811237292|pkw||pmt||prd|18192UK

Thatll make the most difference in getting you up the hills.


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## GlenBen (12 Aug 2017)

Thats a reason im quite familiar with myself, ive been using a 'rubbish' bike for years for a similar reason and i wouldnt swap it for any other bike.

7 and 8 speed are compatible, but the easy answer for you is no. A 7 speed shifter wont shift 8 cogs on the back and the shifter is the most expensive part to switch. 

Are you wanting to keep costs down or improve the performance as much as you cam?


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## stevenfarthing (12 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> Thats a reason im quite familiar with myself, ive been using a 'rubbish' bike for years for a similar reason and i wouldnt swap it for any other bike.
> 
> 7 and 8 speed are compatible, but the easy answer for you is no. A 7 speed shifter wont shift 8 cogs on the back and the shifter is the most expensive part to switch.
> 
> Are you wanting to keep costs down or improve the performance as much as you cam?


I'm hoping for easier hill climbs rather than having to walk the bike up some of them. As a recreational rider I'm not too fussed about speed, time trials and so forth.


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## GlenBen (12 Aug 2017)

In that case, id go for just getting a 11/12-32 cassette in 7 speed. 

The more teeth it has, the easier the gear is. Adding another cog to the rear wont make hills any easier. 

I did a quick google and it looks like you have 25 on your biggest rear cog? Not the easiest of gears so a 32 would make quite an impact. Theyre not the easiest thing to find, but shimano do hg200 that goes up to 32 tooth. Id give that a try at least before spending hundreds on a new groupset and wheels.

Hope that helps, or even makes sense.


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## raleighnut (12 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> In that case, id go for just getting a 11/12-32 cassette in 7 speed.
> 
> The more teeth it has, the easier the gear is. Adding another cog to the rear wont make hills any easier.
> 
> ...


I'd think an 11-32 would be pushing the capacity of the rear mech but a 12-28 should fit OK, that would give you 1 gear lower for climbing but would not have stupid 'gaps' between gears on a 7 speed.


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## GlenBen (12 Aug 2017)

I run 32 on my tourney derailluer ok. I just stuck it on and hoped though, no idea if its supposed to fit or not.


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## stevenfarthing (12 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> In that case, id go for just getting a 11/12-32 cassette in 7 speed.
> 
> The more teeth it has, the easier the gear is. Adding another cog to the rear wont make hills any easier.
> 
> ...


It's not easy to find specs for the Airlite 100: 2014 STI Limited Edition, but this link may indicate the cassette on the bike:

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/150814/products/raleigh-airlite-100-limited-edition-road-bike.aspx


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## stevenfarthing (12 Aug 2017)

stevenfarthing said:


> It's not easy to find specs for the Airlite 100: 2014 STI Limited Edition, but this link may indicate the cassette on the bike:
> 
> https://www.rutlandcycling.com/150814/products/raleigh-airlite-100-limited-edition-road-bike.aspx


Is this what I'm looking for ?

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bik...ain-cables/sram-pg-730-7-speed-cassette-12-32


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## guitarpete247 (12 Aug 2017)

Just spotted a Claris groupset for sale on eBay. Currently at £15 used.


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## si_c (12 Aug 2017)

Standard tourney derailleur has always been a long cage one on bikes I've seen. I'd also suggest that it's a freewheel rather than a free hub.

@stevenfarthing you can check this by looking at the rear hub in your wheel. If it is fatter on the gear side between the spokes then it is a cassette, if it is the same on both sides then it's a freewheel.

The good news if it's a freewheel is that getting a 7 speed 14-28 for around £20 fitted by your local bike shop.


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## GlenBen (12 Aug 2017)

That should do @stevenfarthing. 

According to that link you posted, its a cassette, not a freewheel. Always worth checking though as @si_c says. Its one of those phrases that are so often wrong on descriptions.


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## si_c (12 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> That should do @stevenfarthing.
> 
> According to that link you posted, its a cassette, not a freewheel. Always worth checking though as @si_c says. Its one of those phrases that are so often wrong on descriptions.


Yeah I've seen numerous bikes which are described as cassette, but which can only be freewheel.


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## jefmcg (12 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> Its one of those phrases that are so often wrong on descriptions.


This Cycling Plus review for the 2012 version says cassette as well.


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## simon.r (12 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> I just stuck it on and hoped though, no idea if its supposed to fit or not.



That's what we all did before the days of the internet. I sometimes wonder if the ability (via Google) to find out if something's "right" or not has lessened our propensity to just "try it and see". And, by extension, lessened our collective ability to discover new things.


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## stevenfarthing (13 Aug 2017)

Hi everyone. I have just physically counted the teeth on the rear of the Airlite. The larger cog has 28 teethe, and the smallest cog has 12. On the front, the larger of the two 'rings' has 50 teethe. I haven't managed to count the smaller front ring. The only label on the rear states that it is a 7 speed SIS index. It seems the 2014 limited edition Airlite has an updated cassette than the internet reviews available. I have googled the difference between a 28 toothe cog and a 30. There are two opinions; that the 30 toothe cog isn't much better than a 28, and yet others think the 30 just gives an extra edge. Others opinions I have read on discussion threads suggest leaving the mech alone and buying new wheels to take some of the weight off a bike. Another suggestion I read stated that the person asking about cassette issues should loose some body weight and get fitter. Perhaps at 55 I'm just getting older.


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## stevenfarthing (13 Aug 2017)

si_c said:


> Standard tourney derailleur has always been a long cage one on bikes I've seen. I'd also suggest that it's a freewheel rather than a free hub.
> 
> @stevenfarthing you can check this by looking at the rear hub in your wheel. If it is fatter on the gear side between the spokes then it is a cassette, if it is the same on both sides then it's a freewheel.
> 
> The good news if it's a freewheel is that getting a 7 speed 14-28 for around £20 fitted by your local bike shop.


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## si_c (13 Aug 2017)

Looks like a cassette. This is probably what you are looking for.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...E_dm|pcrid|161819001758|pkw||pmt||prd|18192UK

32t makes a noticeable difference compared to a 28t, it's around a 12% difference.


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## DRM (13 Aug 2017)

Having read why you are attached to the bike, I think your best course of action would be to fit the 32 tooth cassette, this will make the inclines easier, I would then keep my eyes open for a used right hand Tiagra lever (10 speed) on ebay or such,then fit that with a 12-32 10 speed cassette when the price is right,then upgrade other things as they wear out, forget the chainset, it's already got a compact fitted, under the circumstances I reckon you will end up with a custom bike that is truly individual and yours.


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## Vantage (13 Aug 2017)

Another option which may or may not have been offered (ive not them all) would be a 36/46t or 38/48t chainset. Lower gears without the faff of switching sti levers.


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## GlenBen (13 Aug 2017)

As above really. A 32 tooth will make a difference for sure. Id see how you get on with that and then if you want to do more, have a look at other options after, there are plenty of other things you could try. 

As for the weight saving, any weight loss will make for easier hill climbing, from either yourself or the bike. However, light weight bike parts dont come cheap and in my eyes at least, dont offer enough difference to warrant consideration. Fitness will come with riding, just enjoy it.


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## stevenfarthing (14 Aug 2017)

GlenBen said:


> As above really. A 32 tooth will make a difference for sure. Id see how you get on with that and then if you want to do more, have a look at other options after, there are plenty of other things you could try.
> 
> As for the weight saving, any weight loss will make for easier hill climbing, from either yourself or the bike. However, light weight bike parts dont come cheap and in my eyes at least, dont offer enough difference to warrant consideration. Fitness will come with riding, just enjoy it.


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## stevenfarthing (14 Aug 2017)

Thanks everyone for the replies. I have just had a 12-32 tooth cassette fitted. I'll see how it works out on a ride tomorrow as I have the day off work.


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## TTSS (16 Aug 2017)

If you bought that bike on-line, I can almost guarantee it will not be set up properly. Find a local bike shop (LBS) not one of the big high street ones.
Pay them to do a basic service. Should be no more than £30. They will adjust everything to the right specification. Cables stretch and minor adjustments are required on all new bikes after a month to 6 weeks dependent on how much your using it. Ride it for a month and see if you notice the difference which I'm sure you will.

Don't spend a tidy sum upgrading a cheap frame and wheel set. This is where bike shops/manufacturers cut back to save money.


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## raleighnut (16 Aug 2017)

TTSS said:


> If you bought that bike on-line, I can almost guarantee it will not be set up properly. Find a local bike shop (LBS) not one of the big high street ones.
> Pay them to do a basic service. Should be no more than £30. They will adjust everything to the right specification. Cables stretch and minor adjustments are required on all new bikes after a month to 6 weeks dependent on how much your using it. Ride it for a month and see if you notice the difference which I'm sure you will.
> 
> Don't spend a tidy sum upgrading a cheap frame and wheel set. This is where bike shops/manufacturers cut back to save money.


Did you read the OP.


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## jefmcg (16 Aug 2017)

raleighnut said:


> Did you read the OP.


Not the OP, but this one



stevenfarthing said:


> An issue for me and the Airlite is that my amazing and fantastic wife bought it for me by paying it off over several months after my post was cut at work. The shop kept it boxed out back until it was paid for in dribs and drabs. She thought having a bike would be good for me, so I have some emotional attachment to it.



<sniff> it's like The Gift of the Magi, without being so depressing.


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## GlenBen (18 Aug 2017)

How did it go?


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## stevenfarthing (13 Jun 2018)

Hi everyone. I have changed the cassette to 32 cog and it has made a good difference. But, it was fitted at Halfords and the chain kept slipping so badly I couldn't ride the bike. I took it to a local bicycle mechanic who had a look and said the 32 cog was fine as are my gear mechanisms and shifters, but it had been set up terribly with the torque way out. The Airlite now changes gear like a dream and I'm out and about on it.


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## MichaelW2 (15 Jun 2018)

I have fitted low end Shimano gears to heavily used everyday commuter bikes and get about 2 years out of a derailleur. They work well enough.
If you are finding hills a problem you need lower gears and/or a lighter bike-rider combination.
It is only worthwhile upgrading after your gears are worn out. An upgrade may not be worthwhile on a heavier entry level frame. Higher level components may be gained by a whole bike upgrade.


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## woosey (15 Jun 2018)

Halfords TDF here, comes with tourney groupset and some unbranded square taper cranks.

It's my daily commuter so mudguards etc, chucked a complete 105 5800 at it for around 11 months and 5000KM, and that was great, but now moving the 5800 to another frame so back to tourney.

TBH i don't miss the 11 speed (vs 7) and setup correctly, as you would expect the indexing is spot on. The massive difference for me is the BB, i would upgrade the cranks / bottom bracket as the square taper is so flexible compared to the newer hollowtech (to the point of rubbing on the front derailer when putting some power down!)


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## MichaelW2 (15 Jun 2018)

woosey said:


> Halfords TDF here, comes with tourney groupset and some unbranded square taper cranks.
> 
> It's my daily commuter so mudguards etc,....he massive difference for me is the BB, i would upgrade the cranks / bottom bracket as the square taper is so flexible compared to the newer hollowtech (to the point of rubbing on the front derailer when putting some power down!)



I would think that the extra stiffness of modern bb units is due to wider diameter frame tube sections. I have never been able to flex a solid steel spindle.

I do like ST for long term reliability. My current commuter bike has 40,000 miles on the original st cartridge.


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## woosey (15 Jun 2018)

MichaelW2 said:


> I would think that the extra stiffness of modern bb units is due to wider diameter frame tube sections. I have never been able to flex a solid steel spindle.


Exact same frame  It might be the cranks - it might be the spindle, but it's all torqued to spec and i even replaced the no-name BB with a shimano unit to see if that was the issue, but the problem only occurs once you go 600W+ so it must be down to flex somewhere! Never had this issue with the 5800 crankset + BB on the same bike.


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## Paulus (19 Jun 2018)

woosey said:


> The massive difference for me is the BB, i would upgrade the cranks / bottom bracket as the square taper is so flexible compared to the newer hollowtech (to the point of rubbing on the front derailer when putting some power down!)



Just an idea, but could it be the actual bottom bracket that is twisting when you put the power down? I have not come across cranks or an axle that amount of flex


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## froze (28 Jun 2018)

There are a lot of responses here which I don't have time to read them so if what I say is a repeat from someone else, sorry! LOL!!

I suggest you NOT upgrade the bike, keep it as it is because the quality of the bike is a basic beginner bike and you'll waist money trying to make it something it's not. While yes spending another $200 or so more than your bike cost you new, to get another bike won't buy you much more than what you have now, so instead of upgrading, save up more money till you have around $1,500 but you may not have to spend that much depending on what you want. The Masi Vincere Disc comes with Tiagra which is really darn close to what 105 is now so it will be a quality groupset, and the bike is only $1,100. Another perhaps even better deal is the Diamondback Century 3, this one comes with the 105 shifting system and it retails for about $1,100. Also the Specialized Allez Elite is another 105 bike for a bit more than the above two at $1,200. Giant Contend SL might be the lightest option with 105 components, but it will the most expensive at $1,450. And the last option is the Trek Emonda ALR4 with comes with Tiagra for $1,150. Of the ones I mentioned the Diamondback has a bit more relaxed riding style than the others so it would be the most comfortable of the group for riding long miles riding comfort; and personally I like the looks the best too because it has a more graceful flowing look, and it does not have just boring black or some boring shade of gray paint on it that's on 90 percent of all bikes made.


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