# Removing a Fixed Wheel Sprocket/Lockring



## Spin City (2 Jun 2009)

A couple of weekends ago the chain broke on my fixed wheel bike. Luckily (or not) I was struggling up a steepish hill so I was only travelling at a few miles an hour but there was a lot of force being put on the chain. I heard an unusual creak and I was able to clip out before the chain totally snapped so I managed not to topple to the floor. 

I bought a new chain but when I came to put it on last weekend it was apparent that I also needed a new rear sprocket. Anyway, I've left my bike at someone's house so I'm not able to go and look at it before the weekend and I obviously want to have the right tools at hand to remove the sprocket. I know that I will need to have a chain whip but I'm not sure if there is also a lockring to remove. 

My questions are [a] how can I find out whether there is a lockring (If the question and answer are straightforward then I can ask the question) and [b] what tool(s) is required to remove a lockring? 

I've done over 4,000 kms (2,500 miles) on the original set up so here's an extra question: [c] Would I be advised to also replace the chainring at the front at the same time? 

The bike in question is a Genesis Skyline (16 months old) which is very similar to the Genesis Flyer. The Skyline has now been replaced by the Ridgeback Solo and I'm not sure if the Flyer has also been replaced. 

Thanking you in advance for any help you can offer.


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## RedBike (2 Jun 2009)

If it's fixed wheel there will be a lockring. Thats what stops the sprocket just undoing when you stop pedalling. 

You need a lockring remover or for a complete bodge (NOT reccomended) you can probably undo it with a screwdriver and a hammer. BTW, lockrings are left threaded so they unscrew clockwise. 

Ideally you should replace the chainring. However, I seriously doubt it's necassary. 
Look at the chainring to see if it's worn / maybe turn it around to face the other way so you're wearing the opposte side of the teeth. Then make sure you go very easily to begin with incase your new chain slips. 

I've just (about two weeks ago) brought the Ridgeback solo. It no longer comes with a fixed gear, just a single speed. I can't make my mind up what size fixed sprocket to buy. I can only just get up some of my local hills with the 18 yet its far too spinny for some of the steeper downs. What ratio to use? Is it hilly where you ride?


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## Joe24 (2 Jun 2009)

Take the lockring off(use a lockring remover, or what i do is get a punch or srewdriver and undo it)
Remember for a lockring, as RedBike says the thread is the opposit to the sprocket.
The sprocket tightens when you pedal, loosens with the back pedal. The lockring will tighten(well, just stay still) when the sprocken loosens, but loosen when the sprocket tightens. Which all just confuses it all, but its how i work it out every time!
I have just replaced my sprocket and chain, after doing about the same amount of miles, maybe abit more.
Oh, and to put your sprocket on, put it on and put the lockring tight up to it. Then ride it up a steep hill(which will tighten up the sprocket enough) then tighten up the lockring.
Sorted
Oh and @ redbikes, either stay with the 18 and get used to it, or put a 19 on and spin. You will learn how to spin and you will(or should) get comfortable with it.
I ride 48/18(started on 46/19 and worked my way up) and i can now go up some very steep hills without much problem now im used to it.


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## RedBike (2 Jun 2009)

> Oh and @ redbikes, either stay with the 18 and get used to it, or put a 19 on and spin. You will learn how to spin and you will(or should) get comfortable with it.
> I ride 48/18(started on 46/19 and worked my way up) and i can now go up some very steep hills without much problem now im used to it.




It's not so much getting up the hills thats the problem. It's coming back down that worries me! I max out at 160ish at the moment single speed. I daren't go much higher with the gears as I have to zig zag to get up all the climbs over about 10% as it is!


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## Joe24 (2 Jun 2009)

RedBike said:


> It's not so much getting up the hills thats the problem. It's coming back down that worries me! I max out at 160ish at the moment single speed. I daren't go much higher with the gears as I have to zig zag to get up all the climbs over about 10% as it is!



Nah, you will be fine. Just be confident and break yourself into spinning. I never used to like spinning much, then i got used to it, and can now spin pretty darn fast.
Ofcourse, if you realy dont like it, then just brake, you will be fine.


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## Spin City (2 Jun 2009)

Thanks for your replies Redbike and Joe24. That's just the information I needed. 

Redbike: The Skyline came with a single speed but shop I bought the bike from set it up from new with a fixed wheel. I decided to keep the 48/18 ratio that the bike came with and I've had no problems at all. 

I make sure that any route I take doesn't have a hill too steep I can't get up it. I either cycle round the Cheshire lanes which are just undulating or I head out to the Lancashire hills. One of the biggest hills around there is Parbold Hill but I make sure I approach it from the less steep side. 

Going down the hills is interesting because if it's possible to spin out then you just can't do that on fixed (but you can use your brakes). The best downhills are where you reach your maximum spin rate at the steepest part of the hill. I've managed 175rpm (at approximately 36mph) and I have an ambition to get to 180rpm i.e. 3 revolutions per second. 

Hope you enjoy your Solo.......


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## Joe24 (2 Jun 2009)

I did 200rpm quiet a few times. And ive had 39 out of my fixed thats 48/18. Not sure what revs that is though


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## 4F (2 Jun 2009)

Joe24 said:


> I did 200rpm quiet a few times. And ive had 39 out of my fixed thats 48/18. Not sure what revs that is though



 I was starting to feel uncomfortable doing 36 mph on 48/16.


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## Joe24 (2 Jun 2009)

FatFellaFromFelixstowe said:


> I was starting to feel uncomfortable doing 36 mph on 48/16.



You just have to get used to it. On sunday i was going down some hills faster then people on geared bikes! A guy out sat in roughly the same gear as me and couldnt keep up.
Its just about relaxing and going for it. And not thinking about your chain coming off or something coming out and you stopping peddling, and just doing it.
I just chose a nice big hill and went for it, and i used to purposly go and do that hill every so often to get my legs spinning faster.
Wasnt so nice on the old fixed, it used to feel like the back wheel was moving from side to side On the new fixed it doesnt and you can just go along spinning fast without much worry. Which impresses alot of people, especially when your in a chaingang and keeping up, or sprinting for a sign.


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## Radius (2 Jun 2009)

Or just take your feet off and put them on the down tube


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## swee'pea99 (11 Jun 2009)

Joe24 said:


> Remember for a lockring, as RedBike says the thread is the opposit to the sprocket.


Now this I find totally baffling. Surely the sprocket and lockring are both going onto the same thread - the same 'male', as it were - so how can one be threaded one way and one t'other?


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## Landslide (11 Jun 2009)

No, a proper fixed hub has two threaded sections. 
The inner section is right-hand threaded, and takes the sprocket. 
The outer section is smaller in diameter, left-hand threaded, and takes the lockring.


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## Bigtwin (11 Jun 2009)

swee said:


> My hub has a stright thread, but I have a lockring cut with a reverse thread. So you screw it up left handed to get it tight, but turn it the same way left handed to undo, so it stays tight.


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## Joe24 (11 Jun 2009)

What Landslide said.
Heres a pic of a normal fixed hub.





You can see the lockring threads(outer) and the sprocket threads(inner)


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## swee'pea99 (11 Jun 2009)

Joe24 said:



> What Landslide said.
> Heres a pic of a normal fixed hub.
> 
> 
> ...


Ah. Now I understand! Thanks.


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