# I don't know if I am going to Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring



## RollingNoMad (30 Apr 2018)

*No way I am going to Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring*

Since I have put on my New Avid Single Digit 7 V-Brakes and Avid speed dial Brake levers. and Shimano XT trigger Shifter 9 speed. and There is times where I am Starting to look at Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring? And I really don't like the idea of Having a Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring! And I am going to be staying with V-Brakes for my Bicycle Touring Trips





I am using the Avid SD7 V-Brakes front and rear Kool Stop V-Type Brake Shoes
(Dual Compound-Black/Salmon Pad's Rear and Front Dual Compound Black/Salmon V2 Pad's) and Avid Speed dial V-brake levers


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## Rickshaw Phil (30 Apr 2018)

Plenty of other touring riders are still on cantilever or V-brakes. If they please you then there is absolutely no problem with that.


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## raleighnut (30 Apr 2018)

Gotta agree, until there are just 1 or 2 different pad shapes/types for disc brakes (like there are for caliper/V/cantilever) who wants to be stuck while a bike shop orders em in cos they "Don't stock those mate" and you've just trashed em on a muddy/dusty trail.


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## mjr (30 Apr 2018)

raleighnut said:


> Gotta agree, until there are just 1 or 2 different pad shapes/types for disc brakes (like there are for caliper/V/cantilever) who wants to be stuck while a bike shop orders em in cos they "Don't stock those mate" and you've just trashed em on a muddy/dusty trail.


On the plus side, they're a lot smaller to carry spares (than caliper/V/cantilever pads - and definitely my hub shoes!).

But on the minus side, it's another thing to remember to take.


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## Ianboydsnr (30 Apr 2018)

My touring bike has disc brakes, a Kona sutra, it’s around 10 years old and still using the original pads, I bought a new set of pads a couple of years ago, and they are tiny, but the old ones work well and have plenty of life, done 5000 miles, no wear on the wheels either, generally in hilly areas as well, so every time I am going down a 25% hill loaded, I am glad it has discs


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## Heltor Chasca (30 Apr 2018)

I tour on the Surly Disc Trucker. I carry a pair of spare pads and a cable. That’s it. Avid BB7 - Very easy to service.

The thing I always forget to pack are my nail clippers.


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## Ianboydsnr (30 Apr 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> I tour of the Surly Disc Trucker. I carry a pair of spare pads and a cable. That’s it. Avid BB7 - Very easy to service.
> 
> The thing I always forget to pack are my nail clippers.



Mine has the same brakes, I don’t even carry a spare cable, though they look and work ok, it’s about time I replaced them all.


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## Aushiker (1 May 2018)

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My bikepacking bike, a Salsa Mukluk has disc brakes whereas my Surly Long Haul Trucker has v-brakes. Both do the job, but if I was buying a new touring bike and discs where an option I would probably go with those.

Oh the Salsa is tubeless too ... <whoops>


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## Drago (1 May 2018)

No way I'm swapping my ordinary for one of those horrendous new fangled safety bicycles. No siree.


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## Vantage (1 May 2018)

I've had disc brakes on a few bikes and can safely say that their only advantage over rim brakes is no rim wear and a bent wheel doesn't really affect braking.
Granted they're more powerful, but both types stop the bike in the same distance. Either type will lock the tyre or flip the bike under the same circumstances.


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## Heltor Chasca (1 May 2018)

Vantage said:


> I've had disc brakes on a few bikes and can safely say that their only advantage over rim brakes is no rim wear and a bent wheel doesn't really affect braking.
> Granted they're more powerful, but both types stop the bike in the same distance. Either type will lock the tyre or flip the bike under the same circumstances.



And of course disc brakes are much more effective in the wet.


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## Ticktockmy (1 May 2018)

I have two cycles, one with vee brakes and one with disc brakes, normally I find no differance between them, as to rim wear from vee brakes it takes so many miles of normal touring to not be a real issue., however in muddy conditions I find the Disc brake better mainly because they dont suffer so much glogging up with mud as the vee brakes do.


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## Bodhbh (1 May 2018)

I've got a BB7 disc brake at the front and a Deore disc brake at the back. Only cos that's what was in the bit box at the time. If one of em goes, I'll replace it with a more rational setup but neither seemed inclined to die. Both have been going +10yrs no problem. The BB7 will prolly go first - lot of crusted aluminium there - death by road salt.


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## Vantage (1 May 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> And of course disc brakes are much more effective in the wet.



To be honest, I've never in the 6 1/2 years I've had the vantage had issues with braking in the wet. I pull the lever and the brakes bite straight away.
I'd say the cables and fingers get an easier life with more powerful brakes though. Prior to replacing the Oryx's with v brakes, keeping the bike under control on a rocky descent I pulled the lever so hard and so long that the outer broke through the sti housing  and my hands were killing me.


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## MichaelW2 (1 May 2018)

My 10 year old commuter bike has Shimano cable disk brakes and they are trouble free and effective. They work as well in the wet as the dry and they have plenty of stopping power. I find that in the wet, rim brakes take a rotation or two to bite unless you feather the brakes to clear them.
For tourists, they prevent the rim from getting too hot on a big decent. What are the disadvantages of disks for tourists? 
Pads? Pick a common type and carry the small spare pads. I have problems finding pads for my old cantilevers in many bike shops, they are all v-brake pads now. You have to cut them down with a hacksaw to fit.
Fork stiffness? You do need a stronger, stiffer fork for disks which has less built-in vibration absorption. fatter tyres would probably help.
The location of the rear brake should be on the chainstay to avoid interference with rack and 'guards. Brake manufacturers have yet to adjust the cable exit angle for this location.


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## RollingNoMad (1 May 2018)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> Plenty of other touring riders are still on cantilever or V-brakes. If they please you then there is absolutely no problem with that.


I had the Tektro Oryx Front/Rear Cantilever Brake on my Surly LHT 26in Touring Bicycle from 11-2008 to 8-2012 and I had a hard time stopping going down a hill with Tektro Oryx Front/Rear Cantilever Brake then I put on my Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes and I think that my Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes are easy to work on. and I did upgrade my Hubs to Shimano XT M756 6-bolt Hubs in 2013. and I will know more about going to Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring. and I am looking at Soma Sage Disc 26in 52cm 2018 Frameset? or Surly Disc Trucker 26in 52 2018.


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## raleighnut (1 May 2018)

RollingNoMad said:


> I had the Tektro Oryx Front/Rear Cantilever Brake on my Surly LHT 26in Touring Bicycle from 11-2008 to 8-2012 and I had a hard time stopping going down a hill with Tektro Oryx Front/Rear Cantilever Brake then I put on my Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes and I think that my Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes are easy to work on. and I did upgrade my Hubs to Shimano XT M756 6-bolt Hubs in 2013. and I will know more about going to Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring. and I am looking at Soma Sage Disc 26in 52cm 2018 Frameset? or Surly Disc Trucker 26in 52 2018.


Shimano Deore V brakes (or Deore XT) are about the best I've found, Tektro/Avid are just cheapos.


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## RollingNoMad (1 May 2018)

raleighnut said:


> Shimano Deore V brakes (or Deore XT) are about the best I've found, Tektro/Avid are just cheapos.


 What do you mean by *"Avid are just cheapos"? *and My Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes was $43.99 USD and the Shimano deore BR-T610 V-Brakes is $23.99 USD same weight


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## RollingNoMad (1 May 2018)

Ticktockmy said:


> I have two cycles, one with vee brakes and one with disc brakes, normally I find no differance between them, as to rim wear from vee brakes it takes so many miles of normal touring to not be a real issue., however in muddy conditions I find the Disc brake better mainly because they dont suffer so much glogging up with mud as the vee brakes do.


I am using the Avid SD7 V-Brakes front and rear Kool Stop V-Type Brake Shoes
(Dual Compound-Black/Salmon Pad's Rear and Front Dual Compound Black/Salmon V2 Pad's) and Avid Speed dial V-brake levers


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

Rim brakes are old technology. Fine in the dry and summer if we get one but even then. Don't miss them compared to disc brakes as they create a lot of mess, wear out rims necessitating a new rim and wheel build which is a major problem when cycle touring. So many long distance and RTW cyclists have come to grief when rim brakes have worn out a rim and it splits. In the wet compared to disc brakes they are not as good and require a rim to be dead true so if your wheel rim gets damaged you cannot use the brake. Disc brakes are so much better in pretty much every way.


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## SkipdiverJohn (2 May 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> And of course disc brakes are much more effective in the wet.



Having grown up riding heavy steel bikes with heavy chromed steel rims, where I've had to scrape my foot on the ground for extra retardation or jump off a moving bike in the wet on occasion to avoid a possible crash at a junction, I regard even the most basic rim-braked alloy wheel set-up as an absolute luxury in comparison. Consequently I am always very wary of building up too much speed on descents and I tend to be very light on the brakes and do the minimum amount of braking I can. No matter how powerful your brake set-up may be, you can only brake as hard as your tyres will maintain traction. Once you can lock a wheel, that's your lot.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Having grown up riding heavy steel bikes with heavy chromed steel rims, where I've had to scrape my foot on the ground for extra retardation or jump off a moving bike in the wet on occasion to avoid a possible crash at a junction, I regard even the most basic rim-braked alloy wheel set-up as an absolute luxury in comparison. Consequently I am always very wary of building up too much speed on descents and I tend to be very light on the brakes and do the minimum amount of braking I can. No matter how powerful your brake set-up may be, you can only brake as hard as your tyres will maintain traction. Once you can lock a wheel, that's your lot.



Well I suggest you ride a laden touring bike with good disc brakes down a long steep mountain pass and see how much later and harder you will be able to brake meaning you can ride faster and be a lot safer. It's like night and day compared with old technology rim brakes.


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## raleighnut (2 May 2018)

RollingNoMad said:


> What do you mean by *"Avid are just cheapos"? *and My Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes was $43.99 USD and the Shimano deore BR-T610 V-Brakes is $23.99 USD same weight


It'd be Deore every time for me in that case, I've got em on 2 bikes (the ones that use V-brakes) and the Trike.







The front brake manages to stop that lot (+me) as the back brake is a 'band/drum' type and ain't up to much. Oh and BTW that wire going into the front axle is for a 250w electric motor so it goes quite quickly.


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## Vantage (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> Well I suggest you ride a laden touring bike with good disc brakes down a long steep mountain pass and see how much later and harder you will be able to brake meaning you can ride faster and be a lot safer. It's like night and day compared with old technology rim brakes.



You're clearly missing the point regarding tyre traction. Once it goes it goes. Doesn't matter whether it goes under caliper, cantilever, v brake or disc, there's only so much braking force a bike can handle before the bike either flips or skids.
Night and day? Really? Rubbish.
Rims don't need to be 'dead true'. They can be anywhere up to about half an inch out of true and still be braked safely on. The same can be said of disc rotors. They can be an absolute nightmare to straighten once bent and without specialist tools, are near impossible to get true again.
Alot of the mess from rim brakes is due to the larger area of their braking surface. Disc brakes also leave residue in wet conditions but because of their smaller diameter it doesn't create as much. Both can be easily cleaned.
Rim failure through wear on long distance and rtw tours isn't at epidemic levels. In many cases, a replaceable rim can be easier to find than a warped disc rotor or worn pads.


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## davidphilips (2 May 2018)

Rim brakes for me, had cable discs on a MTB and they where no better than rim brakes, at present my run about bike a ridgeback flight that has hydraulic disc brakes they work very well but theres always the danger of a fluid leak or making a mistake when mending a puncture and the wheel wont go back in with out a lot of fun plus there can be fun with lever adjustment.

On there plus side they work well but are heavy and for road bikes have extra wind drag.


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## Jody (2 May 2018)

Vantage said:


> Night and day? Really? Rubbish..



It's down to personal preference but a good quality hydraulic brake is night and day from any rim brake setup. Power, modulation, feel are all there. I couldn't think of one rim brake setup I would trust to stop me with one finger on the lever in almost any condition. 

I'm not knocking V's as they were a massive step from previous types of brakes. But its like saying automotive discs and drums are the same as they both stop a car and can lock a wheel.


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## Ianboydsnr (2 May 2018)

Vantage said:


> You're clearly missing the point regarding tyre traction. Once it goes it goes. Doesn't matter whether it goes under caliper, cantilever, v brake or disc, there's only so much braking force a bike can handle before the bike either flips or skids.
> Night and day? Really? Rubbish.
> Rims don't need to be 'dead true'. They can be anywhere up to about half an inch out of true and still be braked safely on. The same can be said of disc rotors. They can be an absolute nightmare to straighten once bent and without specialist tools, are near impossible to get true again.
> Alot of the mess from rim brakes is due to the larger area of their braking surface. Disc brakes also leave residue in wet conditions but because of their smaller diameter it doesn't create as much. Both can be easily cleaned.
> Rim failure through wear on long distance and rtw tours isn't at epidemic levels. In many cases, a replaceable rim can be easier to find than a warped disc rotor or worn pads.



I think you are missing his point, heavily laden down a 25% mountain pass, it’s not a lacking of grip that is the issue, it’s the build up of heat of the braking surfaces, whether rims or discs, one is better able to cope with heat than the other, and you can safely use them more,

It’s easier to straighten discs than replace rims, done it many times with just an adjustable spanner, on mountain bikes, I don’t know why one would be looking for a warped disc rotor, and pads are easy to bring with you, your much more likely to know when pads need replaced, than when rims need replaced,

My tourer has disc brakes, but retains cantilever mounts as a back up, the wheels being suitable for both, I actually don’t mind using either type, but commuting in all weathers I would prefer discs, especially if a small wheel bike like a Brompton, which wears rear rims fast If using all weathers.


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## KneesUp (2 May 2018)

Vantage said:


> I've had disc brakes on a few bikes and can safely say that their only advantage over rim brakes is no rim wear and a bent wheel doesn't really affect braking.





Heltor Chasca said:


> And of course disc brakes are much more effective in the wet.


Drum brakes also offer all these advantages, plus they are essentially maintenance free, with shoes that last for thousands of miles if not tens of thousands, as I understand.


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## screenman (2 May 2018)

KneesUp said:


> Drum brakes also offer all these advantages, plus they are essentially maintenance free, with shoes that last for thousands of miles if not tens of thousands, as I understand.



When wss the last time you drove a car with drum brakes, for me it was a few weeks back, they did not come close to my discs allbround cars.


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## KneesUp (2 May 2018)

screenman said:


> When wss the last time you drove a car with drum brakes, for me it was a few weeks back, they did not come close to my discs allbround cars.


When was the last time you rode a bike with the same weight and power as a car?


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

You can usually tell disc braked bikes in the rain. They're the ones making horrible horrible noises whenever the brakes are touched. Usually whistling, sometimes scraping. That can't be good for them.

I'm sure you're all mechanically brilliant and keep your disc brakes silent but it doesn't seem like that's common. At best, it seems like they need development to make them easier to set up silent.


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## Jody (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> At best, it seems like they need development to make them easier to set up silent.



At least they stop well when its wet rather than pulling the lever and having a gamble 

Wet disc noises are a little frustrating though.


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

Jody said:


> At least they stop well when its wet rather than pulling the lever and having a gamble


So do my hubs and rim brakes EXCEPT for the retro bike with steel rims. As others have mentioned, most bike brakes used now will cheerfully exceed the available grip and skid or flip you, so surely this discussion should be more about installation, setup and maintenance than stopping power?


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## Heltor Chasca (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> You can usually tell disc braked bikes in the rain. They're the ones making horrible horrible noises whenever the brakes are touched. Usually whistling, sometimes scraping. That can't be good for them.
> 
> I'm sure you're all mechanically brilliant and keep your disc brakes silent but it doesn't seem like that's common. At best, it seems like they need development to make them easier to set up silent.





Jody said:


> At least they stop well when its wet rather than pulling the lever and having a gamble
> 
> Wet disc noises are a little frustrating though.



I think you’ll find amongst disc brake fans, those noises are described as wet, wine glass tunes.


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> I think you’ll find amongst disc brake fans, those noises are described as wet, wine glass tunes.


If only they could vary the note and not only the volume!


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## Heltor Chasca (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> If only they could vary the note and not only the volume!



I can play Beethoven’s 9th coming down Cheddar Gorge.


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## screenman (2 May 2018)

KneesUp said:


> When was the last time you rode a bike with the same weight and power as a car?



Good point, can I turn that back and ask when was the last time you road a bike that had brakes as large as those on a car. Drum brakes on cars and lorries etc are nowhere near as good as disc, in my humble, lot seaier to service as well.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

Vantage said:


> You're clearly missing the point regarding tyre traction. Once it goes it goes. Doesn't matter whether it goes under caliper, cantilever, v brake or disc, there's only so much braking force a bike can handle before the bike either flips or skids.
> Night and day? Really? Rubbish.
> Rims don't need to be 'dead true'. They can be anywhere up to about half an inch out of true and still be braked safely on. The same can be said of disc rotors. They can be an absolute nightmare to straighten once bent and without specialist tools, are near impossible to get true again.
> Alot of the mess from rim brakes is due to the larger area of their braking surface. Disc brakes also leave residue in wet conditions but because of their smaller diameter it doesn't create as much. Both can be easily cleaned.
> Rim failure through wear on long distance and rtw tours isn't at epidemic levels. In many cases, a replaceable rim can be easier to find than a warped disc rotor or worn pads.



Warning: Luddite alert!


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

davidphilips said:


> Rim brakes for me, had cable discs on a MTB and they where no better than rim brakes, at present my run about bike a ridgeback flight that has hydraulic disc brakes they work very well but theres always the danger of a fluid leak or making a mistake when mending a puncture and the wheel wont go back in with out a lot of fun plus there can be fun with lever adjustment.
> 
> On there plus side they work well but are heavy and for road bikes have *extra wind drag*.



LoL!


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

Vantage said:


> You're clearly missing the point regarding tyre traction. Once it goes it goes. Doesn't matter whether it goes under caliper, cantilever, v brake or disc, there's only so much braking force a bike can handle before the bike either flips or skids.
> Night and day? Really? Rubbish.
> Rims don't need to be 'dead true'. They can be anywhere up to about half an inch out of true and still be braked safely on. The same can be said of disc rotors. They can be an absolute nightmare to straighten once bent and without specialist tools, are near impossible to get true again.
> Alot of the mess from rim brakes is due to the larger area of their braking surface. Disc brakes also leave residue in wet conditions but because of their smaller diameter it doesn't create as much. Both can be easily cleaned.
> Rim failure through wear on long distance and rtw tours isn't at epidemic levels. In many cases, a replaceable rim can be easier to find than a warped disc rotor or worn pads.



You are the one clearly missing the point and have failed to realise that technology has moved on, considerably. I haven't said V-braked bikes are inherently bad, merely highlighted their disadvantages compared to more modern disc brakes whose practicality and performance are much better. You win the Luddite Gold medal for today.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

screenman said:


> Good point, can I turn that back and ask when was the last time you road a bike that had brakes as large as those on a car. Drum brakes on cars and lorries etc are nowhere near as good as disc, in my humble, lot seaier to service as well.



Don't forget motorbikes!


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## Jody (2 May 2018)

@mjr Maybe my perception is skewed with mainly riding a MTB. I can only judge based on older brake types on bikes gone by and my road bike, which the rim brakes are very poor in comparison unless I’m on the drops. I wouldn't trust my road bike to stop at speed in the wet first time every time.


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> You are the one clearly missing the point and have failed to realise that technology has moved on, considerably. I haven't said V-braked bikes are inherently bad, merely highlighted their disadvantages compared to more modern disc brakes whose practicality and performance are much better. You win the Luddite Gold medal for today.


I looked for that. Did you mean this?


Crankarm said:


> Well I suggest you ride a laden touring bike with good disc brakes down a long steep mountain pass and see how much later and harder you will be able to brake meaning you can ride faster and be a lot safer. It's like night and day compared with old technology rim brakes.


Who wants to optimise their brakes for riding laden touring bikes faster down long steep mountain passes? Is that a big part of anyone's cycling? And if I'm touring, I'd like to enjoy the ride more than seeing how fast I can downhill. As long as the brakes can stop me, I'll probably pick the ones that are easier to maintain and don't whine in the wet.


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## screenman (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> Don't forget motorbikes!



I did, boy can you remember them with drum brakes, horrible.


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## Jody (2 May 2018)

Out of intertest without wanting to derail the thread how come road bikes didn't move to V brakes?


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## Heltor Chasca (2 May 2018)

It just happens that through budget/opportunity/etc that Famille de Heltor Chasca have a 2:4 rim:disc brake ratio. Discounting all the performance arguments, and the fact that I do all the cleaning and servicing of our 6 bikes, I prefer disc brakes. Much simpler and cleaner. No ‘rubber soot’ to be seen.


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## screenman (2 May 2018)

I have not done any servicing on my disc brakes, am I missing something. The cable rim brakes do take the odd fettle from time to time.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

screenman said:


> I did, boy can you remember them with drum brakes, horrible.



Awful, awful sensation with drum brakes. You'd grab a handle of brake lever and stamp on the foot brake and wonder whether the brakes would actually stop you before the end of the week as you headed for a wall or truck and your life flashed before you. Disc brakes on motorbikes are now taken for granted, unless you still ride a crappy C90 or 100cc bike some where in Asia, but then you wouldn't know any better.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> I looked for that. Did you mean this?
> 
> Who wants to optimise their brakes for riding laden touring bikes faster down long steep mountain passes? Is that a big part of anyone's cycling? And if I'm touring, I'd like to enjoy the ride more than seeing how fast I can downhill. As long as the brakes can stop me, I'll probably pick the ones that are easier to maintain and don't whine in the wet.



As opposed to whining on cycling forums. LoL. My bike's disc brakes don't whine indeed they don't make any noise. If they do they are not set up properly or perhaps a very cheap make of disc brake, pad or rotor.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> I looked for that. Did you mean this?
> 
> *Who wants to optimise their brakes for riding laden touring bikes* faster down long steep mountain passes? Is that a big part of anyone's cycling? And if I'm touring, I'd like to enjoy the ride more than seeing how fast I can downhill. As long as the brakes can stop me, I'll probably pick the ones that are easier to maintain and don't whine in the wet.



Errr ...... clearly not the OP? Quote title : *No way I am going to Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring*


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## raleighnut (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> Awful, awful sensation with drum brakes. You'd grab a handle of brake lever and stamp on the foot brake and wonder whether the brakes would actually stop you before the end of the week as you headed for a wall or truck and your life flashed before you. Disc brakes on motorbikes are now taken for granted, unless you still ride a crappy C90 or 100cc bike some where in Asia, but then you wouldn't know any better.


I quite like Motorbikes with drum front brakes,


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## Rickshaw Phil (2 May 2018)

*Putting my mod hat on for a moment; *there are some polarised opinions on this subject. Please calm it down a bit - this isn't about trying to prove that yours is the one true braking system.



RollingNoMad said:


> I had the Tektro Oryx Front/Rear Cantilever Brake on my Surly LHT 26in Touring Bicycle from 11-2008 to 8-2012 and I had a hard time stopping going down a hill with Tektro Oryx Front/Rear Cantilever Brake then I put on my Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes and I think that my Avid Single digit 7 V-Brakes are easy to work on. and I did upgrade my Hubs to Shimano XT M756 6-bolt Hubs in 2013. and I will know more about going to Disc Brakes for Bicycle Touring. and I am looking at Soma Sage Disc 26in 52cm 2018 Frameset? or Surly Disc Trucker 26in 52 2018.


I think experience with cantilevers can be a bit hit and miss. My two best bikes are on cantilever brakes and give different experiences.

The Dawes has Shimano cantis which I've found quite tricky to set up and finally managed to get the braking adequate. I'm considering trying some mini-V's to see how they perform.
The Raleigh has unbranded brakes which have been a fairly easy set up and give a great feel and a bite that I prefer to the V-brakes on my knockabout bike.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

raleighnut said:


> I quite like Motorbikes with drum front brakes,
> 
> 
> View attachment 406984



Thanks for posting a pic of your bike, but sorry it is not really my cup of tea really old bikes, but it looks in nice condition though.

I prefer more modern ones. As @Brandane I have a Honda VFR which of course has disc brakes and would love either a KTM 1290 Superduke R or a 
BMW S1000R or maybe a new Triumph Speed Triple RS. All have Brembo disc brakes as far as I know.


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## Blue Hills (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> You win the Luddite Gold medal for today.



Lay off it please. You exaggerate I feel.

May come as news to you that I was actually pleased to find my Ridgeback 2016 model (V brakes) before it was changed to discs in the following year. Discs have their plus points but I prefer Vs for all sorts of reasons stated by others upthread.

I keep my rims clean and regularly check the pads for debris. Not gone on a major expedition yet but like the idea that I can pick up the pads pretty much anywhere. Brake unit or lever failure extremely unlikely but if that ever happened I would have little problem getting (and fitting) new ones.

If setting off on a major major trip, no great problem to fit new Sputnik rimmed wheels. I reckon they would outlast most trips.

My 2016 model still has its original wheels as supplied and still running fine - I plan to get some Sputniks to fit when heading off somewhere serious. My general purpose bike has Sputnik wheels built by Spa and they are still going strong after several years. I fitted Vs to that bike (a 90s steel Ridgeback - how quaint/luddite) to replace the original cantis. I also in a modernising fit moved it from 7 speed to 8 speed for the simple reason that it works.

Not had any real problem stopping at all and you would not believe the amount of stuff I carry.

As for stopping in the wet, don't see that as a mega mega problem. And of course on tour, rather than racing to work, you don't necessarily have to ride ride on through a deluge. I might take it easy and spend more time in the tent with a good book. Or if in the UK retire to a spoons to catch up on internet and recharging.

I'd wager that your bike/s contain a fair few bits that are just so last century. But work.


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## Bodhbh (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> Who wants to optimise their brakes for riding laden touring bikes faster down long steep mountain passes? Is that a big part of anyone's cycling? And if I'm touring, I'd like to enjoy the ride more than seeing how fast I can downhill.



To turn this on it's head, it's more about optimising the brakes to go slower. I'm thinking about long twisty decents where you're constantly having to grab a fistful of lever just to keep down to a safe speed. At least with discs you don't have to worry about blowout due to rim overheating. It's never happened to me, but I don't even want it on the table - it does not aid enjoyment !


----------



## Blue Hills (2 May 2018)

Jody said:


> Out of intertest without wanting to derail the thread how come road bikes didn't move to V brakes?


Good question. I idly wonder this sometimes when looking at a fairly sporty bit of steel I fitted Vs to.

I'd guess that it maybe has something to do with supposed aesthetics, "the rules" or some such tosh.

Normal Vs I gather don't work with drop bar controls but I gather that "mini Vs" do.


----------



## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> *Putting my mod hat on for a moment; *there are some polarised opinions on this subject. Please calm it down a bit - *this isn't about trying to prove that yours is the one true braking system*.
> 
> I think experience with cantilevers can be a bit hit and miss. My two best bikes are on cantilever brakes and give different experiences.
> 
> ...



Ehhh? Indeed, but it is about giving objective advice. Simply shouting louder that the Earth is still flat in defiance of scientific knowledge, logic and reason and believers of such are heretics is well what the Catholic church used to do to protect it's orthodoxy. Luckily most have now seen the light to realise this is not the case.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

Bodhbh said:


> To turn this on it's head, it's more about optimising the brakes to go slower. I'm thinking about long twisty decents where you're constantly having to grab a fistful of lever just to keep down to a safe speed. At least with discs you don't have to worry about blowout due to rim overheating. It's never happened to me, but I don't even want it on the table - it does not aid enjoyment !



Good point.


----------



## screenman (2 May 2018)

There is no way I am going to use any of this newfangled stuff, what is up witha penny black, did the job then and it should now.


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## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

[QUOTE="Rickshaw Phil, post: 5231486, member: 20178"*]*Putting my mod hat on for a moment*; *there are some polarised opinions on this subject. Please calm it down a bit - this isn't about trying to prove that yours is the one true braking system.

*I think experience with cantilevers can be a bit hit and miss*. My two best bikes are on cantilever brakes and give different experiences.

The Dawes has Shimano cantis which I've found quite tricky to set up and finally managed to get the braking adequate. I'm considering trying some mini-V's to see how they perform.
The Raleigh has unbranded brakes which have been a fairly easy set up and give a great feel and a bite that I prefer to the V-brakes on my knockabout bike.[/QUOTE]

I've had cantilever brakes on my road bikes, V brakes on my commuter hybrids and now disc brakes on my Troll and MTB. Disc brakes are by far the best brakes I have used on any bicycle. As I say V brakes are ok but disc brakes are just much better. Period.


----------



## Jody (2 May 2018)

Blue Hills said:


> I'd guess that it maybe has something to do with supposed aesthetics, "the rules" or some such tosh.



You're probably right. I fogot about "the rules"


----------



## Ianboydsnr (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> I looked for that. Did you mean this?
> 
> Who wants to optimise their brakes for riding laden touring bikes faster down long steep mountain passes? Is that a big part of anyone's cycling? And if I'm touring, I'd like to enjoy the ride more than seeing how fast I can downhill. As long as the brakes can stop me, I'll probably pick the ones that are easier to maintain and don't whine in the wet.


It is for me, it’s not wanting to ride faster down 25% hills with hairpin bends at the end, is why I prefer disc brakes, 

In the wet, loaded with touring gear, going down a mountain pass is an especially bum clenching period of any touring that I do, that’s why I want brakes that work instantly, work well, and continue to work all the way down, when doing that, the last thing I care about is noise, or if cantilever brakes would be up to it, of course if I only ever cycled the fens or somewhere flat, then it would be different.


----------



## Rickshaw Phil (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> Ehhh? Indeed, but it is about giving objective advice. Simply shouting louder that the Earth is still flat in defiance of scientific knowledge, logic and reason and believers of such are heretics is well what the Catholic church used to do to protect it's orthodoxy. Luckily most have now seen the light to realise this is not the case.


My comment applies to everyone. I wasn't singling anyone out.

Objective advice is great and we want lots of it on the site. Belittling or sarcastic comments towards those who have a different point of view isn't what we want though and we were headed in that direction hence the note.


----------



## mjr (2 May 2018)

Bodhbh said:


> To turn this on it's head, it's more about optimising the brakes to go slower. I'm thinking about long twisty decents where you're constantly having to grab a fistful of lever just to keep down to a safe speed. At least with discs you don't have to worry about blowout due to rim overheating. It's never happened to me, but I don't even want it on the table - it does not aid enjoyment !


It never happened and probably never will, so why swap it for the more likely problems of warped/bent discs or accidental burns when parking the bike?

As for grabbing fistfuls, that's mainly a road bike thing IME so is it just that discs bring road bike braking up to what other bikes have had with Vs and hubs?


----------



## raleighnut (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> Thanks for posting a pic of your bike, but sorry it is not really my cup of tea really old bikes, but it looks in nice condition though.
> 
> I prefer more modern ones. As @Brandane I have a Honda VFR which of course has disc brakes and would love either a KTM 1290 Superduke R or a
> BMW S1000R or maybe a new Triumph Speed Triple RS. All have Brembo disc brakes as far as I know.


It's not my bike, I lack the £20,000 or so to afford one like that.


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## Rickshaw Phil (2 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> I've had cantilever brakes on my road bikes, V brakes on my commuter hybrids and now disc brakes on my Troll and MTB. Disc brakes are by far the best brakes I have used on any bicycle. As I say V brakes are ok but disc brakes are just much better. Period.


Which is fine. I could have mentioned that the best brakes I've had were the hydraulic discs on the rickshaw. A third of a tonne of vehicle and passengers down a steep hill - no problem.


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

Ianboydsnr said:


> of course if I only ever cycled the fens or somewhere flat, then it would be different.


Yeah I may live on the edge of the fens now but I've ridden enough countries I've lost count, on two continents. Not yet with discs except as short test rides because I've not seen enough benefit to add a fifth brake type to the shed.


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## Ianboydsnr (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> Yeah I may live on the edge of the fens now but I've ridden enough countries I've lost count, on two continents. Not yet with discs except as short test rides because I've not seen enough benefit to add a fifth brake type to the shed.



Whereas I ride in an area which has many 25% hills and hairpin bends, but what do I know.


----------



## mjr (2 May 2018)

Ianboydsnr said:


> Whereas I ride in an area which has many 25% hills and hairpin bends, but what do I know.


I lived on the outside of a hairpin on a 25% hill (Monk's Hill in Somerset) 2006-2012, so most rides ended with braking and turning right down that, but what do I know.


----------



## Ianboydsnr (2 May 2018)

mjr said:


> I lived on the outside of a hairpin on a 25% hill (Monk's Hill in Somerset) 2006-2012, so most rides ended with braking and turning right down that, but what do I know.



Clearly you know everything.


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## screenman (2 May 2018)

I went down the stairs once on a tray that had no brakes, not a good idea.


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## MichaelW2 (2 May 2018)

Blue Hills said:


> Good question. I idly wonder this sometimes when looking at a fairly sporty bit of steel I fitted Vs to.
> 
> I'd guess that it maybe has something to do with supposed aesthetics, "the rules" or some such tosh.
> 
> Normal Vs I gather don't work with drop bar controls but I gather that "mini Vs" do.



V brakes give you more tyre clearance. Why do road racers need this?


----------



## Crankarm (2 May 2018)

Ianboydsnr said:


> It is for me, it’s not wanting to ride faster down 25% hills with hairpin bends at the end, is why I prefer disc brakes,
> 
> In the wet, loaded with touring gear, going down a mountain pass is an especially bum clenching period of any touring that I do, that’s why I want brakes that work instantly, work well, and continue to work all the way down, when doing that, the last thing I care about is noise, or if cantilever brakes would be up to it, of course if I only ever cycled the fens or somewhere flat, then it would be different.



And believe me you need disc brakes in the highlands of the Fens just to stop the wind pushing you back from where you came ;@)


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

Ianboydsnr said:


> Clearly you know everything.


No but at least I know not to assume that someone currently living the fens hasn't necessarily always lived there and never ridden anywhere else!


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## mjr (2 May 2018)

MichaelW2 said:


> V brakes give you more tyre clearance. Why do road racers need this?


Road tyres are getting fatter...? Prize for first Paris-Roubaix winner on 4" anyone?


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## RollingNoMad (3 May 2018)

Jody said:


> Out of intertest without wanting to derail the thread how come road bikes didn't move to V brakes?


V-Brakes on road Bicycle I really don't know about that but Road Bicycle are Getting Disc Brakes


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## RollingNoMad (3 May 2018)

Crankarm said:


> [QUOTE="Rickshaw Phil, post: 5231486, member: 20178"*]*Putting my mod hat on for a moment*; *there are some polarised opinions on this subject. Please calm it down a bit - this isn't about trying to prove that yours is the one true braking system.
> 
> *I think experience with cantilevers can be a bit hit and miss*. My two best bikes are on cantilever brakes and give different experiences.
> 
> ...



I've had cantilever brakes on my road bikes, V brakes on my commuter hybrids and now disc brakes on my Troll and MTB. Disc brakes are by far the best brakes I have used on any bicycle. As I say V brakes are ok but disc brakes are just much better. Period.[/QUOTE]
I remember when Surly Bikes came out with the Surly Troll Expedition Touring Bicycle and I was thinking that is a Sexy Bicycle. And I am looking at the Surly Troll Expedition Touring Bicycle and I am going have to go to my LBS= local
Bicycle Shop ASAP to look at the Surly Troll


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## Heltor Chasca (3 May 2018)

RollingNoMad said:


> I've had cantilever brakes on my road bikes, V brakes on my commuter hybrids and now disc brakes on my Troll and MTB. Disc brakes are by far the best brakes I have used on any bicycle. As I say V brakes are ok but disc brakes are just much better. Period.


I remember when Surly Bikes came out with the Surly Troll Expedition Touring Bicycle and I was thinking that is a Sexy Bicycle. And I am looking at the Surly Troll Expedition Touring Bicycle and I am going have to go to my LBS= local
Bicycle Shop ASAP to look at the Surly Troll
View attachment 407107
[/QUOTE]

The Surly Troll is on my wish list. Lovely thing and so adaptable.


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## mjr (3 May 2018)

[QUOTE 5232141, member: 45"]What's with the capitals?[/QUOTE]
Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam are all nice places to cycle.


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## Bodhbh (3 May 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> I remember when Surly Bikes came out with the Surly Troll Expedition Touring Bicycle and I was thinking that is a Sexy Bicycle. And I am looking at the Surly Troll Expedition Touring Bicycle and I am going have to go to my LBS= local
> Bicycle Shop ASAP to look at the Surly Troll
> The Surly Troll is on my wish list. Lovely thing and so adaptable.



Seen as I've now got an excuse to post a pic somewhere...






Just built it up last week from parts swapped over from my old tourer. First time I've actually ever bought a full, new, frameset of anything - rather than bodge together something from eBay. My old Orange P7 with Troll forks worked great as a tourer, but was always slightly too long so I decided to treat myself. Having a multitude of mounts for everything actually makes it easier to brake down and use for use other than touring. First time I've had a bike where you can take off the mudguards and rack seperately as they've always shared bolts someplace. Already it's replaced two bikes, as I plan to swap wheelsets depending what I'm doing. If I get on with the wheel swap thing, it may replace a third. Plan to make full use of the versatility...

On topic: the rim brake mounts will remain as ornamental, magpie scaring devices.


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## SkipdiverJohn (3 May 2018)

I wouldn't describe that as a Tourer! It looks like a conventional 1980's/1990's style rigid MTB fitted with mudguards to me.... It might be perfectly capable of being set up for touring, like any similar rigid MTB frame, but let's not stretch the definition of types of bikes to the point where they actually bear no resemblance to what they purport to be.


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## Bodhbh (3 May 2018)

You're right, I don't think anybody has ever toured on a 80s / 90 MTB.


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## Heltor Chasca (3 May 2018)

Surly pride themselves on the Troll being one of their finest tourers. Especially off road. Take a look at CGOAB and you’ll see many global jaunts have been done on the Troll. YouTube alludes to the Troll being a great choice for touring.

A 90s Mongoose MTB was one of my first touring bikes. I guess I was the first and the last of anyone to try that sort of tomfoolery.  An old Peugeot ‘racing bike’ got me pretty far down the road too.

It makes me want a Troll even more.


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## RollingNoMad (3 May 2018)

[QUOTE 5232141, member: 45"]What's with the capitals?[/QUOTE]
FYI: that is the that I type my words and I have ADHD and I was in special education when I was a kid and I don't know how to put word when typing.


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## RollingNoMad (3 May 2018)

Bodhbh said:


> Seen as I've now got an excuse to post a pic somewhere...
> 
> View attachment 407216
> 
> ...


I am looking at the I am thinking about the Masi Giramando 700c 2018 for my Bicycle Touring Trips in the USA 1299.99+California Tax=$1426.74 t is cheaper to buy a Touring Bicycle then from Frameset 700X40c 32hole spokes and I would replace with 36hole spokes, 36hole Rims and Sun-Ringle Rhyno lites 700c Rims and Shimano Deore HB-M525A Front Hub, Shimano HU-M525A Rear Hub 6-bolt $1299.99 with racks and I would add flat mtn handlebars and I have the Shimano XT SL-M780 Trigger Shifters 10 speed in the box in my Storage unit I am working on the Disc Brakes: Research my question is which Disc brakes will be easier to work on when Bicycle Touring? Avid BB7 Mountain Disc Brakes mechanical vs Hayes MX expert Disc Brake mechanical Long Pull Brakes It is not fun trying to look for bike parts 10 speed on-line bike shops with Mountain vs Trekking bike parts http://www.biketoday.news/2017/10/masi-bikes-new-2018-giramondo-700c.html


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## Crankarm (3 May 2018)

Bodhbh said:


> Seen as I've now got an excuse to post a pic somewhere...
> 
> View attachment 407216
> 
> ...



Arghhh ..................... that's Trolltastic.


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## Crankarm (3 May 2018)

RollingNoMad said:


> I am looking at the I am thinking about the Masi Giramando 700c 2018 for my Bicycle Touring Trips in the USA 1299.99+California Tax=$1426.74 t is cheaper to buy a Touring Bicycle then from Frameset 700X40c 32hole spokes and I would replace with 36hole spokes, 36hole Rims and Sun-Ringle Rhyno lites 700c Rims and Shimano Deore HB-M525A Front Hub, Shimano HU-M525A Rear Hub 6-bolt $1299.99 with racks and I would add flat mtn handlebars and I have the Shimano XT SL-M780 Trigger Shifters 10 speed in the box in my Storage unit I am working on the Disc Brakes: Research my question is which Disc brakes will be easier to work on when Bicycle Touring? Avid BB7 Mountain Disc Brakes mechanical vs Hayes MX expert Disc Brake mechanical Long Pull Brakes It is not fun trying to look for bike parts 10 speed on-line bike shops with Mountain vs Trekking bike parts http://www.biketoday.news/2017/10/masi-bikes-new-2018-giramondo-700c.html
> View attachment 407261



If you must have cable disc brakes then get the Avid BB7s with Avid Speed dial levers. At the moment mine has Shimano SLX hydraulic disc brakes with sintered pads and the braking is pretty good, pretty good ........ 160mm Hope disc at the rear and 180mm Shimano XT disc on the front. Could go to a 203mm on the front, but the stopping power is pretty good at the moment. Although would love some Hope disc brakes.


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## Heltor Chasca (4 May 2018)

For cable discs, Avid BB7s are great as said upthread. But also having experienced TRP Spyres I have got to say they would be my preference. Budget dictates your purchase of though.


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## User10119 (4 May 2018)

When I bought The Very Lovely Valencia (to give her her full title) she was supplied with basic (shimano?) disc brakes. THey worked, but there were only two people in the world that could make them not squeal. After a couple of years I upgraded to BB7s. The next bike I bought was the Circe Helios, and BB7s were a non-negotiable part of the spec.

Although, as V&I discovered, no brakes in the world will help you if the front brake cable snaps halfway down Little Fryupdale...


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## raleighnut (4 May 2018)

[QUOTE 5233171, member: 10119"]When I bought The Very Lovely Valencia (to give her her full title) she was supplied with basic (shimano?) disc brakes. THey worked, but there were only two people in the world that could make them not squeal. After a couple of years I upgraded to BB7s. The next bike I bought was the Circe Helios, and BB7s were a non-negotiable part of the spec.

Although, as V&I discovered, no brakes in the world will help you if the front brake cable snaps halfway down Little Fryupdale...[/QUOTE]
Or a hose goes before the hydraulic fans start wittering on.


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## Drago (4 May 2018)

Seen a Hope hose that had popped out of the banjo. Suffice to say the rider needed new underwear in addition to a new nose.


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## User10119 (4 May 2018)

raleighnut said:


> Or a hose goes before the hydraulic fans start wittering on.



I swore, remarkably quietly, which the chap in front of me said afterwards commented made him think "That doesn't sound good, but I ain't stopping here!" because, despite being a very serious audaxer in possession of a thoroughly well maintained and fully functioning set of rim brakes, he wasn't convinced he safely could. Then I dropped off the saddle onto the top tube, leant back as far possible, and put my feet down (heel first - hurray for trainers and flat pedals) while hauling on the font brake as much as I could. I managed to stop _just_ before a bit where the road, up to that point distinctly downwards, dropped away in a style best described as plummeting.


----------



## raleighnut (4 May 2018)

[QUOTE 5233201, member: 10119"]I swore, remarkably quietly, which the chap in front of me said afterwards commented made him think "That doesn't sound good, but I ain't stopping here!" because, despite being a very serious audaxer in possession of a thoroughly well maintained and fully functioning set of rim brakes, he wasn't convinced he safely could. Then I dropped off the saddle onto the top tube, leant back as far possible, and put my feet down (heel first - hurray for trainers and flat pedals) while hauling on the font brake as much as I could. I managed to stop _just_ before a bit where the road, up to that point distinctly downwards, dropped away in a style best described as plummeting.[/QUOTE]
  at least you had the front brake, imagine trying to stop downhill with only a rear.


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## User10119 (4 May 2018)

raleighnut said:


> at least you had the front brake, imagine trying to stop downhill with only a rear.



You know I'm thinking about it. I'm not convinced it wasn't the front that went. I'd have to find the ride report to check.

I do remember looking around and realising there was only walls or bumpy downhill stony fields to ride off the road into, so I was going to have to stop it somehow...


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## raleighnut (4 May 2018)

[QUOTE 5233237, member: 10119"]You know I'm thinking about it. I'm not convinced it wasn't the front that went. I'd have to find the ride report to check.

I do remember looking around and realising there was only walls or bumpy downhill stony fields to ride off the road into, so I was going to have to stop it somehow...[/QUOTE]
Only having a back brake would lead to a big black stripe on the road and a big brown one elsewhere in my experience.


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## User10119 (4 May 2018)

I checked. It was the front!
View attachment 407306

That's me in the green, a few moments before the fateful kerr-ping (with thanks to @Skuhravy whose photo I just pinched)


----------



## KneesUp (4 May 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> For cable discs, Avid BB7s are great as said upthread. But also having experienced TRP Spyres I have got to say they would be my preference. Budget dictates your purchase of though.


The cable operated hydraulics (such as TRP HY:RD) seem like a good idea - the benefits of hydraulics with the ease of servicing of cable.


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## ianrauk (4 May 2018)

KneesUp said:


> The cable operated hydraulics (such as TRP HY:RD) seem like a good idea - the benefits of hydraulics with the ease of servicing of cable.




I do have to admit. The BB7's are a sinch to maintain and look after.


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## raleighnut (4 May 2018)

[QUOTE 5233252, member: 10119"]I checked. It was the front!
View attachment 407306

That's me in the green, a few moments before the fateful kerr-ping (with thanks to @Skuhravy whose photo I just pinched)[/QUOTE]


----------



## Milkfloat (4 May 2018)

KneesUp said:


> The cable operated hydraulics (such as TRP HY:RD) seem like a good idea - the benefits of hydraulics with the ease of servicing of cable.



Do you not have to service the hydraulic parts too? To me it sound like double work and more chance of issues.


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## KneesUp (4 May 2018)

Milkfloat said:


> Do you not have to service the hydraulic parts too? To me it sound like double work and more chance of issues.


They're sealed as far as I know, but because it's hydraulic it automatically adjusts for pad wear.


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## Ianboydsnr (4 May 2018)

mjr said:


> No but at least I know not to assume that someone currently living the fens hasn't necessarily always lived there and never ridden anywhere else!


But I never assumed anything, until you posted I never knew where you lived, I merely mentioned the fens, because I know they are flat,

There you go assuming that I was assuming.


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## Milkfloat (4 May 2018)

KneesUp said:


> They're sealed as far as I know, but because it's hydraulic it automatically adjusts for pad wear.



Well they still need bleeding maybe less often than normal hydraulics, but in addition they need cables. To me I don't see advantages over full hydraulics.


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## FishFright (4 May 2018)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> *Putting my mod hat on for a moment; *there are some polarised opinions on this subject. Please calm it down a bit - this isn't about trying to prove that yours is the one true braking system.



Very very OT but this is how moderation should be done, out in public with a very clear explanation why.


----------



## Ianboydsnr (4 May 2018)

FishFright said:


> Very very OT but this is how moderation should be done, out in public with a very clear explanation why.



Disagreeing is what discussions are all about, it’s to those involved that credit is due, the reminder was no more than a gentle nudge, which is how it should be or need to be if views of others are to be respected.


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## RollingNoMad (4 May 2018)

ianrauk said:


> I do have to admit. The BB7's are a sinch to maintain and look after.


*Surly LHT 26in wheel frameset V- Brakes vs Surly Disc Trucker Disc Brakes 26in wheels*

Maybe I could buy my 1st Touring Bicycle Surly Disc Trucker 26in 52cm 2018/2019 with Disc Brakes?

I have Shimano XT 10 speed drivetrain in my Storage unit

Feedback is Helpful and appreciated

I know that Disc Brakes have more stopping power over V-Brakes under
Fully-Loaded Touring Bicycle

I have been thinking about Disc Brakes since 11-2008 when I got my Surly LHT
26in 52cm 2008. but I was looking at the Kona Sutra

Well 2012 is when Surly Bikes came out with the Surly Disc Trucker 26in

the 2018 Surly Disc Trucker frameset






I am working on the Disc Brakes: Research
my question is which Disc brakes will be easier to work on
when Bicycle Touring?
*Avid BB7 Mountain Disc Brakes mechanical vs
Hayes MX expert Disc Brake mechanical
Long Pull Brakes*
It is not fun trying to look for bike parts 10 speed on-line bike shops with Mountain vs Trekking bike parts

Most of my words is copied and Pasted

I will keep my Surly LHT 26in 52cm 2008 Touring Bicycle for Stealth Bicycle Camping/Bicycle Touring


----------



## Bodhbh (4 May 2018)

ianrauk said:


> I do have to admit. The BB7's are a sinch to maintain and look after.



Basically a block of aluminium with a bolt at each end to adjust pad location, and a swing arm for a the cable. Not much to go wrong, and you could easy take a spare caliper if really doing crossing contients stuff.


----------



## Skuhravy (5 May 2018)

I was thinking of that just last week, while hacking up New Way. Poor Tony had to go back down and up it twice, to fetch a replacement brake cable (he had the wrong one the first time, or something like that).


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## Heltor Chasca (5 May 2018)

Just to make life difficult and to whet your appetite. Here’s a 50cm 26” DT in various guises.


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## Ticktockmy (5 May 2018)

I currently have Hope X2 hydraulic brake system on the touring bike, which is a MTB frame. hope are a high class bit of engineering, but over the years since i have been using them I have used different pads, from different suppliers, each time I have changed to different pads i have noticed I get quite different braking results, and length of time they last. The sintered pads I am using currently really work very well, but tend to squeal when wet, on a downhill. Rim brakes have the same problem it OK quoting the wonders of different makes of brakes, but its the Brake pads that do the work and pays to experment with different pads.


----------



## steve292 (5 May 2018)

How do you get the BBQ in the panniers?


----------



## Heltor Chasca (5 May 2018)

steve292 said:


> View attachment 407542
> 
> How do you get the BBQ in the panniers?



Ortlieb. I’ll say no more.


----------



## Blue Hills (5 May 2018)

RollingNoMad said:


> *Surly LHT 26in wheel frameset V- Brakes vs Surly Disc Trucker Disc Brakes 26in wheels*
> 
> Maybe I could buy my 1st Touring Bicycle Surly Disc Trucker 26in 52cm 2018/2019 with Disc Brakes?
> 
> ...


At the risk of thread divert I wouldn't use 10 speed on a tourer. The "standard" lht spec should never have gone 10 speed, not until they were dragged screaming.


----------



## RollingNoMad (7 May 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> Just to make life difficult and to whet your appetite. Here’s a 50cm 26” DT in various guises.
> 
> View attachment 407493
> View attachment 407494
> ...


Hi and I am Thinking about the Soma Saga Disc Brakes Frameset 26in 52cm
2018 to change my Surly LHT 26 52cm 2008. And Or the 
Wow I keep looking at the Masi Giramando 700c 2018 for Bicycle Touring 

I am thinking about the Masi Giramando 700c 2018 for my Bicycle Touring Trips in the USA 1299.99+California Tax=$1426.74. and it is way cheaper to buy a Touring Bicycle then from Frameset. And Wheelset 700X40c 32hole spokes and I would replace with 36hole spokes, 36hole Rims and Sun-Ringle Rhyno lites 700c Rims and Shimano Deore HB-M525A Front Hub, Shimano HU-M525A Rear Hub 6-bolt
$1299.99 with racks and I would stay with Drop Handlebars with Microshift Mtn 10 speed Bar End Shifters and Lizard Skins DSP 2.5mm Handlebars tape 

I am working on the Disc Brakes: Research 

my question is which Disc brakes will be easier to work on when Bicycle Touring? 

Avid BB7S Mountain Disc Brakes mechanical vs Avid BB7 Mountain Disc Brake mechanical
Long Pull Brakes. And Tektro V-Drop V-Brakes Levers

It is not fun trying to look for bike parts 10 speed on-line bike shops with Mountain vs Trekking bike parts
http://www.biketoday.news/2017/10/masi-bikes-new-2018-giramondo-700c.html






I would keep my Surly LHT 26 52cm 2008 for Stealth Bicycle Camping Trips in Southern California and Arizona 





I am going to be Saving money $130/120.00 a month to 4-2020


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