# Madison Revell Mixte



## DCBassman (7 Sep 2020)

While cleaning the Scott after today's ride, I thought I'd just measure the rear dropouts on the Revell. I'd found that the 120mm spacing on the Peugeot mixte was demonic trying to get wheels for, and wondered what this one was like. Eased off the QR and got out the trusty Rabone Chesterman.

It's 130mm.

Which means I can throw anything i want in there.

So, here's the idea.
I'll sort out an 8-speed cassette, 12-36 if I can find one (doubtful...). I'll fit that to the Shimano r500s I've just taken off the Scott, and fit them in place of the 27x1.25s on there at the moment. The current Weinmann brakes look to have a long enough drop to cope.
I'll keep it as a downtube friction setup, and flip the North Road bars from the Peugeot to give a semi-dropped look. Brake levers from the Peugeot also, as they match the brakes.
Edit: it might also be that the Peugeot can take the 27x1.25s, in which case, win-win! 
I'll make two different bikes out of two different bikes!


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## DCBassman (7 Sep 2020)

I've just remembered, I even have some tyres for the project, some 28mm Luganos that were one size too big for the Scott.
Bingo!


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## DCBassman (8 Sep 2020)

Parts list needed/already have:
*Wheels*: Shimano WH-R500 set. Just really to see how it goes, then later get hold of another set of R550s, which would look good with this if I remove all the decals.
*Tyres* - Luganos in stock, as are new tubes.
*Cables*: 1x brake inner and 2x gear inners. Outers of both in stock.
Brake levers, bars, and possibly stem nicked from the Peugeot P18 mixte in store.
Tools (and knowledge  ) to overhaul the BB and headset.
Supplies and more knowledge (paging @Gunk and @biggs682 !) for lightly renovating, as far as is possible, the paintwork.

So, a not-impossibly-expensive list. The tools will be the expensive bits.


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## biggs682 (8 Sep 2020)

@DCBassman I prefer patina over factory fresh paint , I normally wipe down with white spirit to remove some of the grime and just t cut and polish a couple of times. 

As for tools I have managed to get quite a few of mine from car boots over the years along with some that have come from people who have given up cycling. 

Shout if you need anything else as I need to start sorting out my garage


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## Gunk (8 Sep 2020)

I just deep clean with WD40 or White Spirit with rags and fine wire wool if needed.

I then use cutting polish and cut it back and then buff it up, my preference is to keep as much originality and patina as possible.

this came up really well, but was a lot of work to get it to this standard.


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## DCBassman (8 Sep 2020)

@Gunk and @biggs682 , thanks for the answers, what's your recommendations for tidying up the bad rattle can job? I'd like to touch in the rusty spots at least...


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## biggs682 (8 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> @Gunk and @biggs682 , thanks for the answers, what's your recommendations for tidying up the bad rattle can job? I'd like to touch in the rusty spots at least...



I think both the suggestion made by myself and @Gunk might remove the rattle can spray , certainly worth a try


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## DCBassman (8 Sep 2020)

Certainty going to give it a go!


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## Gunk (8 Sep 2020)

Thinners will remove aerosol paint


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## DCBassman (17 Sep 2020)

Gears: I'm making the possibly erroneous assumption that the Suntour mech will have the range of movement needed to cover an 8-speed cassette. Certainly there won't be much in it , but I'd rather like to keep using the Suntour if at all possible. It would also be nice, but not essential, to replace the Shimano DT shifters with Suntour equivalents.


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## DCBassman (20 Sep 2020)

I am reliably informed that my neighbour has the first parcel from Wiggle waiting for me tomorrow, so I can get started! House sit ends tomorrow morning.


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## DCBassman (22 Sep 2020)

Right, here's the first fiddlings. All I've done is fit a cassette to the wheels and do a trial fit. Basically, it works, although it looks as though the Suntour RD won't do the job, so have fitted my old Sora mech. That has the same size cage, so with judicious chain length selection, may obviate the need hor a hanger extender. This mech was on a road triple before, it should handle a double easily.
Wheels: all good, but probably better with decals removed. What's best to remove after-decal goo?









Edit: 28mm Luganos fitted.


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## raleighnut (23 Sep 2020)

White Spirit on a rag will shift the glue but it will still take some 'elbow grease' too


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## DCBassman (24 Sep 2020)

Tools arrived, just need the weather...
In other related news: the garage I rent which contains any bike not being ridden (currently the Trek and the Peugeot mixte) has decided to no longer allow me access. Repair man coming this afternoon. While he's sorting that, I will reduce the Pug to a rolling frame as I cannibalise it for this project. Will take saddle and post, bars and stem, brakes and mudgards. The mudguards in particular just need the stays cleaned up, otherwise they are shiny mirrors! Heavier than the plastics on the Revell at the moment, but they will look good.
Might also remove the rack and see if it is salvageable by some means. The 28c nylon gumwall Contis on it seem to be untouched by time, might keep those too...


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## DCBassman (25 Sep 2020)

A bit more done today, pix to follow tomorrow.
First ever threaded headset fettle; very dry old grease. Cleaned out, new grease, feels nice! Final check on that when it has a front brake.
Bars removed and flipped to see what it looks like. Think it will be good. Until I can get into my garage (door is jammed), and get the Pug stripped, these are just a temporary fitting. The pug stem is a little taller, and the bars are alloy. Decided I'll keep the Ritchey levers, as this is hardly a faithful restoration!
Next job is cables.


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## DCBassman (26 Sep 2020)

Here it is.
Not sure I like the bars that way now...oh well.


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## All uphill (26 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> View attachment 549174
> 
> 
> Here it is.
> Not sure I like the bars that way now...oh well.


Agree with you on the bars.

That's going to be a lovely bike when you've finished it!


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## DCBassman (26 Sep 2020)

All uphill said:


> Agree with you on the bars.
> 
> That's going to be a lovely bike when you've finished it!


Thank you.
Must invest in some Solvol Autosol for the bars and stem, otherwise they'll look too dull next to the mirror-like guards from the Pug!


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## DCBassman (28 Sep 2020)

Ok, today was jammed garage door and Pug stripping day. Garage door was not too much of a problem, in that it's going to be replaced. The Pug, though...where do I start?
Saddle/seatpost, no issue. Bars/stem, easy peasy. Front brake, good. Rear brake. Not coming off until the rack is off. Rack...is part of a jigsaw puzzle with the rear mudguard! All this was complicated by the fact that I didn't have the right 8mm spanner. Much faffing and cursing later, it came off. Then I discovered I DID have the right spanner...
The front guard's top fixing is via the brake bolt *inside* the fork crown. Who dreamed that up?
It remains to be seen if it will fit the Revell. Similarly, it might just be that the rack won't mount to the Revell frame correctly. 
All will be revealed, with pics, on Wednesday. 
I hope...


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

More work today.
It didn't go well...


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

What worked:
Cabled up.
Gears work, but see Fails.
Brakes work, but see Fails.
Fails:
Forgot to bring the damn brake blocks from home...
Pedals don't fit. Right diameter, but thread pitch very obviously different on this crankset.
Need thin wall socket to remove crankset. So BB not serviced yet.
In top gear, 50-11, the extra downtube on the mixte is *just* touching the chain. Drop a gear or on the small ring, it's fine.

Oh well...


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## All uphill (30 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> What worked:
> Cabled up.
> Gears work, but see Fails.
> Brakes work, but see Fails.
> ...



We all have those days.

The top gear problem is familiar. I had this with a build and found that one large 1mm thick washer put on the axle solved it.

Keep on keeping on! This is going to be good!


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

All uphill said:


> one large 1mm thick washer put on the axle solved it.


Yes, that would do it, for certain. I just don't have one...


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

All uphill said:


> one large 1mm thick washer put on the axle solved it.


But but... how does that affect the QR?


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

Other problems: 
Wanted to use the alloy bars from the Pug. Nope, they're 1.5mm oversize and the Ritchey levers won't stretch.
Wanted to use the shinyshiny guards from the Pug too, but had forgotten that the Revell is a 27" bike, and the Pug's guards are *just* too small.


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## All uphill (30 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Yes, that would do it, for certain. I just don't have one...


Want me to drop a couple in the post?


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## All uphill (30 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> But but... how does that affect the QR?


You just slacken off the nut on the other end of the QR from the lever a little till the tension is back to normal.

More difficult to put in words than do.


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

All uphill said:


> Want me to drop a couple in the post?


Oh, yes please! i'll PM the address.


All uphill said:


> You just slacken off the nut on the other end of the QR from the lever a little till the tension is back to normal.
> 
> More difficult to put in words than do.


Got it!


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## raleighnut (30 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Oh, yes please! i'll PM the address.
> 
> Got it!


Be aware that you need to have a bit of the Axle poking into the dropout still to locate the wheel as I posted to @Reynard earlier


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

raleighnut said:


> Be aware that you need to have a bit of the Axle poking into the dropout still to locate the wheel as I posted to @Reynard earlier


Yup, understood. Really only needs half a mil extra, so should be fine.


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

Another plus: my workshop for the next few days.






And the view if I turn around.


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## DCBassman (30 Sep 2020)

So, the next question: what about those pedal threads?
What research I've done so far indicates the chainset should be entirely standard. Should I add grease and more ft/lbs?


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## raleighnut (30 Sep 2020)

DCBassman said:


> So, the next question: what about those pedal threads?
> What research I've done so far indicates the chainset should be entirely standard. Should I add grease and more ft/lbs?


Err you have got em on the correct side, one side is reverse threaded.


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## DCBassman (1 Oct 2020)

raleighnut said:


> Err you have got em on the correct side, one side is reverse threaded.


Yup, no problem there. They just don't go on more than thread or two. Checked against the Scott in case I'd bought the wrong pedals, but same...


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## raleighnut (1 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Yup, no problem there. They just don't go on more than thread or two. Checked against the Scott in case I'd bought the wrong pedals, but same...


Never come across pedals with a different pitch thread, there are 2 sizes though 9/16ths and 1/2", the smaller ones are BMX normally although my Trike has em.
Is there a visible fault on the thread ?


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## DCBassman (1 Oct 2020)

raleighnut said:


> Never come across pedals with a different pitch thread, there are 2 sizes though 9/16ths and 1/2", the smaller ones are BMX normally although my Trike has em.
> Is there a visible fault on the thread ?



Nothing that I can see...Agree, only BMX and old French stuff is different. It was certainly a bit of a fight getting the old pedals off when I first got it, so maybe I just need to get in there and scrub around a bit, then use lots of grease...


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## raleighnut (1 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Nothing that I can see...Agree, only BMX and old French stuff is different. It was certainly a bit of a fight getting the old pedals off when I first got it, so maybe I just need to get in there and scrub around a bit, then use lots of grease...


Aye an old toothbrush dipped in 3in1 generally does the job


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## SkipdiverJohn (4 Oct 2020)

If you want to clean out a tight crank thread and don't have a proper tap, you can make a DIY one from a pair of scrap pedal shafts with axial slots cut in the threaded end with an angle grinder. Make sure any swarf/burrs are removed then run the DIY tool through the crank arms using light machine oil or spray as a cutting lube. The cut slots will act as swarf breakers and clear any material removed out of the hole without it jamming.


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## DCBassman (4 Oct 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> If you want to clean out a tight crank thread and don't have a proper tap, you can make a DIY one from a pair of scrap pedal shafts with axial slots cut in the threaded end with an angle grinder. Make sure any swarf/burrs are removed then run the DIY tool through the crank arms using light machine oil or spray as a cutting lube. The cut slots will act as swarf breakers and clear any material removed out of the hole without it jamming.



Good tip, but waaaay beyond my competence, I'm afraid.


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## SkipdiverJohn (4 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Good tip, but waaaay beyond my competence, I'm afraid.



Nothing difficult about it. If you can fit a pedal to a bike you can clean up a tight thread.
This is basic engineering benchwork, and may be done in any situation where you had a spare sacrificial part to hand but not the correct tap, or getting one specially for a one-off job would be prohibitively expensive. Not as quick or efficient as using the proper tool, but for DIY fettling this doesn't matter.


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## DCBassman (4 Oct 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> This is basic engineering benchwork


It absolutely is...but, but...I have absolutely nowhere to carry out such work, nor the appropriate power tools. I'll clean it up somehow, for sure!


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## DCBassman (5 Oct 2020)

OK, old toothbrush and GT85 at the ready, I went to do battle with the pedals.
Soaking the brush, I screwed it in to the drive side crank, right through, and back out again. fetched pedal and spanner. Definitely easier, I slowly kept at it until it was all the way in. Excellent. Non-drive side: same process, but eventually, after about two-thirds of the thread, it went on easily. So, one tricky job that turned out to be not too tricky after all.
As that had taken far less time than anticipated, I decided to finish removeing the Shimano wheel decals. That took _much_ longer, and I still have to get the gunk off....


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## DCBassman (7 Oct 2020)

Home from Brentor later today.
Weather permitting, I'll fit the forgotten brake blocks, and then give it a quick spin.
Next work, though, is chainset and cranks off, and service the BB. For this, I need a thin wall 15mm socket. Are such things available, or is it a DIY thing?


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## All uphill (7 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Home from Brentor later today.
> Weather permitting, I'll fit the forgotten brake blocks, and then give it a quick spin.
> Next work, though, is chainset and cranks off, and service the BB. For this, I need a thin wall 15mm socket. Are such things available, or is it a DIY thing?


They are available on ebay. Iirc they are listed as a BMW spark plug socket. Mine was around £6 and came from China, eventually.


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## DCBassman (7 Oct 2020)

All uphill said:


> They are available on ebay. Iirc they are listed as a BMW spark plug socket. Mine was around £6 and came from China, eventually.


What I'd prefer, if possible, is to convert ut to Allen bolts with flush dust caps. Much more elegant, mechanically.


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## All uphill (7 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> What I'd prefer, if possible, is to convert ut to Allen bolts with flush dust caps. Much more elegant, mechanically.


Definitely a better solution.


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## DCBassman (7 Oct 2020)

Ok, first ride, after fitting brake blocks and putting a washer inside the drive-side dropout. Light. Bars look wonderfully retro, but don't suit me at all. Will look for flatter, narrower ones a la Scott/Trek.
Braking is not great, although definitely needs more fettling. Will convert it, maybe, to nutted long-drop dual-pivots.
Gears: DT friction shifting not fun from high flat bars. Much wobbling! Probably better from lower bars, and with more experience. But indexing looms large in my mind. Less concerned about the FD, only two rings means one way or t'other, so may try and find a thumb shifter with a friction setting.
So, far from perfect, but a promising start.


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## DCBassman (22 Oct 2020)

Next steps, when back home next week.
Replace bars with straight narrow alloy item.
Then awaiting Sora flat-bar brake/shifters and will see what shenanigans I must undertake to make the left-hand triple indexed shifter do something with a non-indexed double. Not holding my breath on that one, but we'll see...
Will ignore the DT shifters and run full cables to the rear stops rather than fit cable stops on DT.


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## DCBassman (23 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> What I'd prefer, if possible, is to convert it to Allen bolts with flush dust caps. Much more elegant, mechanically.


And can I find any? What am I supposed to search for? Rats.
Have also managed to find a pair of 2x8 flat-bar EZ-Fire shifters! Identical to those I sent @Reynard but with a 2x left shifter. If I'm a really jammy so-and-so, it'll do the job even connected to the old Suntour front mech. If not, plenty of Shimano ones around!


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## DCBassman (23 Oct 2020)

And no sooner than I grizzle about it...
D'oh...


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## Reynard (23 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> And no sooner than I grizzle about it...
> D'oh...



Always the way, isn't it?


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## recumbentpanda (24 Oct 2020)

Gosh, this takes me back -I designed the head-badge decal on that! Nice bikes. Frames made by Saracen if I remember right . . .


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## DCBassman (24 Oct 2020)

recumbentpanda said:


> Gosh, this takes me back -I designed the head-badge decal on that! Nice bikes. Frames made by Saracen if I remember right . . .


More history! Thanks for that.


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## DCBassman (29 Oct 2020)

Awaiting the weather...





And the weather ain't playin' ball, so it ain't.


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## raleighnut (29 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Awaiting the weather...
> View attachment 555155
> 
> And the weather ain't playin' ball, so it ain't.


Have you seen these,

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sti-pair-of-cable-stops


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## DCBassman (29 Oct 2020)

raleighnut said:


> Have you seen these,
> 
> https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-sti-pair-of-cable-stops


Yes...presumably I can dismantle the band-on DT shifters and scew these to the bosses on the band?


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## raleighnut (29 Oct 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Yes...presumably I can dismantle the band-on DT shifters and scew these to the bosses on the band?


Yep they should have the bosses on the band on part.


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## DCBassman (29 Oct 2020)

raleighnut said:


> Yep they should have the bosses on the band on part.


Coolio, will get some ordered, thanks.


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## DCBassman (29 Oct 2020)

Better yet, these have barrel adjusters!
Linky


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## DCBassman (2 Nov 2020)

Grips and cable stops, courtesy of those nice people at SJS.


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## DCBassman (5 Nov 2020)

What better day to work on this?
Pics later.


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## DCBassman (5 Nov 2020)

And not a moment's work got done.


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## DCBassman (6 Nov 2020)

Right, progress:
Today's start point:






New bars:





Grips and shifters fitted, brakes cabled. Badly, will shorten another day.





Band-on DT shifters removed, and...nope, the new Tiagra cable stops don't fit, or to be accurate, the bolts are too big. >>>>drawing board.





There seems to be a small square braze-on beneath the shifter mounting point...Or is it a bodged up repair?





Fitted Norco saddle and a chromed saddle clamp, just to pay some lip service to colour co-ordination!





Other things checked: took off NDS crank with new box spanner - 14mm end. Had a go at BB as there was play. Lock ring came off easily, bringing the cup with it. managed not to drop any bearings. Needs a good clean and regrease, but replaced it, no play, runs smooth. Refitted crank with new allen bolt and seal, and fitted similar to DS crank. Except the 14mm end of the new box spanner didn't fit. The 16mm end did. Just as well I got one with two ends!
That's it for today, getting cold and dark.


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## DCBassman (6 Nov 2020)

Under higher magnification, that DOES look like a bodged repair. Oh dear...


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## DCBassman (7 Nov 2020)

If only I'd taken that DT shifter off for some reason before...
Time to strip off all the bits and return the frame whence it came.


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## Reynard (7 Nov 2020)

DCBassman said:


> If only I'd taken that DT shifter off for some reason before...
> Time to strip off all the bits and return the frame whence it came.



Oh man, I feel for you xxx


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## DCBassman (7 Nov 2020)

Reynard said:


> Oh man, I feel for you xxx


I haven't been able to go out and strip it yet, it feels...wrong.


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## DCBassman (13 Nov 2020)

Sod it, I'm going to finish it, and ride it. I'm not that heavy, and it's not like I can press dents in it or anything. Onward and upward!


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## DCBassman (7 Dec 2020)

Next bit, tidy brake cables and fit new gear cables.
To which end, I've finally got the cable stops mounted on the old shifter band.




Now to find the motivation to go out in the cold and fit everything!


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## biggs682 (7 Dec 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Next bit, tidy brake cables and fit new gear cables.
> To which end, I've finally got the cable stops mounted on the old shifter band.
> View attachment 562145
> 
> Now to find the motivation to go out in the cold and fit everything!



Yes it's not great tinkering weather


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## raleighnut (7 Dec 2020)

biggs682 said:


> Yes it's not great tinkering weather


It is if you put the bike in the front room


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## DCBassman (7 Dec 2020)

raleighnut said:


> It is if you put the bike in the front room


Not enough space!


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

OK, steeled (pun intended!) myself to get out and do some work.
First: how to clamp, or more accurately wedge, a mixte in a workstand.





Starting point:




First job was to reduce those loopy brake cables to tidy up a bit. The cable the gears, rear first. This ended up being pretty loopy too, in an outward sense. It did index properly like that, but the kink at the frame stop was unacceptable to me eye, so a ty-rap was applied, sorry about the loud colour!
Before





After





Cabling up the front was straightforward, just set to loose and pulled tight. Worked perfectly, first time! Didn't even think about messing with it.
Cable stops on the down tube shifter band.


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

Finished, for now. Will try for a short spin tomorrow, weather permitting, although as this has mudguards, permission might be easier than normal!




















The reality is that it needs stripping to the frame and properly cleaning and the paintwork attending to, and a couple of decals maybe, as well.
But I've no way of doing that, so it will be a task-at-a-time project to do what I can, when I can.
While I was at it, I weighed it as-is, with lights:





Not too bad.


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## Reynard (12 Dec 2020)

Looks pretty neat.


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

Not too bad for a dump rescue!


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

12.1 kg = 26.675 lb. The Scott roadie is 10.78kg or 23.765 lb, so just 2.91 lb in it. Take the lights and mudguards off the mixte, and it would be within shouting distance of the same weight as the Scott.


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## Hebe (12 Dec 2020)

Just had a quick skim of the last few pages. Going to get a drink and enjoy this whole thread. I really like the lugs on the frame and it’s a revelation to see how how you ”wedged” it onto the work stand! Really inspiring.

edit - that must feel so satisfying! Did you learn lots?


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## SkipdiverJohn (12 Dec 2020)

DCBassman said:


> While I was at it, I weighed it as-is, with lights:
> View attachment 563021
> 
> 
> Not too bad.



Can't be doing with those metric measurements, but 26.68 lb in old money is a very respectable weight considering it has both mudguards and lights. I would expect the mudguards to be around a pound based on my own weighings. 
Naked bike would be a shade over 25 lbs! My Raleigh Royal is 25.64 lb in stripped down fair weather condition, but the frame on that is only 75% 531 not 100% as on the Revell. 
Just goes to show how as you go up the frame quality ladder, each step gets a few ounces lighter, and a mixte is inherently a bit heavier than a diamond frame all things being equal. My Gemini hybrid, with 531 main tubes, is the wrong side of 30 lbs with rack, mudguards & bomb-proof Schwalbes fitted.


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

Hebe said:


> edit - that must feel so satisfying! Did you learn lots?


I always do. But I have some luck as well. The front derailleur is the original Suntour unit, not designed for indexed gearing. I took a chance that it would work with the shifters I managed to get, and it did, right off the bat. That was very lucky indeed, I fully expected the job to stop there while I sourced a Shimano fd.


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> not 100% as on the Revell.


Well, Ishiwata 0245 with 531 fork...but I'll take it!


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## DCBassman (12 Dec 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> My Gemini hybrid, with 531 main tubes, is the wrong side of 30 lbs with rack, mudguards & bomb-proof Schwalbes fitted.


But remember, I've got Shimano R500 basic racing wheels fitted, low spoke count, about 4lb bare. 28mm Schwalbe Luganos are not the lightest, but not that heavy either. If I stripped off the guards, lights, and fitted 25mm Lugano folders, to say nothing of lighter tyres, I'd get it to within a pound of the Scott.


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## DCBassman (13 Dec 2020)

Weather utterly foul, so no test ride today...


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## SkipdiverJohn (13 Dec 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Well, Ishiwata 0245 with 531 fork...but I'll take it!



I stand corrected for being a muppet! Especially since it was me that mentioned the Ishiwate tubing some time ago...  I think it was roughly the equivalent of 531ST in gauge, which makes the weight of your mixte even more impressive.


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## DCBassman (13 Dec 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> I stand corrected for being a muppet! Especially since it was me that mentioned the Ishiwate tubing some time ago...  I think it was roughly the equivalent of 531ST in gauge, which makes the weight of your mixte even more impressive.


Hopefully, it's not lighter due to corrosion!


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## biggs682 (13 Dec 2020)

@DCBassman looks good and let's hope you enjoy it as mush as we have enjoyed your thread


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## DCBassman (19 Dec 2020)

Just frustrated now at the appalling weather. No way I'm going to ride in this, even with mudguards!


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## Reynard (19 Dec 2020)

Even Max is staying indoors at the moment @DCBassman - discretion is the better part of valour and all that


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## DCBassman (19 Dec 2020)

Reynard said:


> Even Max is staying indoors at the moment @DCBassman - discretion is the better part of valour and all that


Too right!


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## Reynard (19 Dec 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Too right!



That, and the fact that I need snorkel and flippers. Bog snorkeling is a valid means of getting about, right? 

Hopefully it'll dry up soon, and you'll be able to get a few miles in.


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## DCBassman (19 Dec 2020)

Reynard said:


> That, and the fact that I need snorkel and flippers. Bog snorkeling is a valid means of getting about, right?
> 
> Hopefully it'll dry up soon, and you'll be able to get a few miles in.


Christmas Eve looking possible...


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## Reynard (19 Dec 2020)

DCBassman said:


> Christmas Eve looking possible...



Fingers crossed!


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## DCBassman (3 Jan 2021)

Finally, test ride tomorrow!


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## DCBassman (4 Jan 2021)

Saddle swap before departure - the Norco one fitted contained about a half pint of water, despite being covered. Shame, comfy saddle. Selle RoyalGel road saddle, originally from the Scott, installed for now.


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## biggs682 (4 Jan 2021)

DCBassman said:


> Saddle swap before departure - the Norco one fitted contained about a half pint of water, despite being covered. Shame, comfy saddle. Selle RoyalGel road saddle, originally from the Scott, installed for now.


Enjoy your ride


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## Reynard (4 Jan 2021)

Sore bum or soggy bum... Hmmm...

Hope nothing fell off / broke / tangled / went *twangggg* on the test ride.


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## DCBassman (4 Jan 2021)

Test ride was an almost complete success. Within 2 metres of starting, the rear wheel had skewed in the dropouts and jammed on the ns chainstay. Tightening it up rather more than I usually like sorted it, and didn't seem to overload the bearings at all, so off we went...
Main problem was heel strike on the cranks. These are not my usual pedals, so maybe this needs the big Wellgos as well. Otherwise, how to fix?
More details in YRT! But pleased, it rode well and the gearing worked for me.


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## DCBassman (4 Jan 2021)

The one thing that did surprise me was the braking. Abysmal. Good alloy rims and Koolstop Salmons, too.
Definitely needs looking at, there were some...exciting moments!


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## Reynard (4 Jan 2021)

Cables requiring a bit more tension maybe? 

Took me a few rides to get that just right on the Raleigh. Now, the bike stops on the proverbial sixpence - those cantis are surprisingly effective.

Edited to add that I've got Clarks pads fitted.


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## DCBassman (4 Jan 2021)

Reynard said:


> Cables requiring a bit more tension maybe?
> 
> Took me a few rides to get that just right on the Raleigh. Now, the bike stops on the proverbial sixpence - those cantis are surprisingly effective.
> 
> Edited to add that I've got Clarks pads fitted.



These are old Weinmann 730s, so not the best to kick off with. Good levers, same as yours. Salmons are fearsomely good with the 105 dual-pivots on the Scott, which previously wore these rims, so t'aint the rims. I'll give them a good degunk and try again.


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## Reynard (4 Jan 2021)

DCBassman said:


> These are old Weinmann 730s, so not the best to kick off with. Good levers, same as yours. Salmons are fearsomely good with the 105 dual-pivots on the Scott, which previously wore these rims, so t'aint the rims. I'll give them a good degunk and try again.



Ah, the cycling equivalent of drum brakes all round...  Hopefully a good strip-and-clean of the calipers will help some.


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## raleighnut (4 Jan 2021)

DCBassman said:


> These are old Weinmann 730s, so not the best to kick off with. Good levers, same as yours. Salmons are fearsomely good with the 105 dual-pivots on the Scott, which previously wore these rims, so t'aint the rims. I'll give them a good degunk and try again.


They'll wear in OK with a few more miles on em.


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## DCBassman (4 Jan 2021)

raleighnut said:


> They'll wear in OK with a few more miles on em.


I'm sure they'll be fine, but a good degrease won't hurt.


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## DCBassman (6 Jan 2021)

So, I'll call that a wrap. Or maybe I'll just say I'm finished for the moment. Got to find a way to add a bottle cage at some point, otherwise, done.
Thanks for your interest!


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## DCBassman (25 Jan 2021)

DCBassman said:


> So, I'll call that a wrap. Or maybe I'll just say I'm finished for the moment. Got to find a way to add a bottle cage at some point, otherwise, done.
> Thanks for your interest!


Not a wrap, the brakes are cr@p,
I'll need to sort them out,
Some nutted dual-pivots will improve it,
There's no doubt.


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## Reynard (25 Jan 2021)

DCBassman said:


> Not a wrap, the brakes are cr@p,
> I'll need to sort them out,
> Some nutted dual-pivots will improve it,
> There's no doubt.



Umm, yes. Being able to stop is... important.

Hope you can get something sorted.


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