# Bike cleaning



## Matt49 (7 Jan 2018)

Hi,

It's been many years since I rode a bike, when I'd just fill a bucket of soapy water and sponge it down. The bike shop looked at me funny when I said I sprayed my trek bike chain with WD40 so does anyone have some simple every day cleaning advice as I don't want to much effort but after cycling 30 miles the other day I didn't feel much like cleaning it but aiming to cycle every other day even in this cold weather. The shop gave me some TF2 and some cycle wash and I have a can of SAS and GT85. Advice appreciated.

Matt


----------



## ChrisEyles (7 Jan 2018)

Soapy water and a sponge down is what I do after a wet muddy ride, paying particular attention to the wheel rims getting rid of all grit/mud. Then dry the bike off with an old tea towel - the frame doesn't matter much but it's good to dry off the derailleurs and chainset. 

Search on this forum for the "mickle method" of cleaning your chain, that's probably the best cleaning tip I've picked up from this forum. 

I use a drop of light oil (chainsaw oil - it's cheaper than bike oil, another tip I picked up on here) on all the derailleur and brake pivot points every once in a while (careful not to get any on your rims or brake pads), and a small spray of GT85 on the points where the gear/brake cable inners go into the outers while I'm at it. 

Cleaning the bike is a great time to check for any damage or mechanical issues too. Every few months I'll give it a more thorough clean and check over all the bolts, BB, wheel axles etc, better than finding out on the road a long way from home. 

It does take a lot of time but it's quite satisfying keeping a well maintained bike and it does seem to ride the better for it.


----------



## mjr (7 Jan 2018)

What's the cycle wash? Far too many IMO are degreasers putting the bike on the fast track to corrosion and generating more sales for bike shops.

Car shampoo with wax, sponge, soft brush where needed and dry.


----------



## bpsmith (7 Jan 2018)

I would advocate some proper bike lube for the chain tbh, but will soon be shot down by the chainsaw fanatics.


----------



## Matt49 (7 Jan 2018)

Thanks for your replies. Why pay attention to wheel rims so much, is that so the brake pads run clean? Cycle wash as attached. The bloke said in the shop that my bike being dirty was the reason the chain would come off at least once a ride so every 25 miles I'd say it comes off once mainly when I switch from the 1st to 3rd crank or vice versa, does jumping across the gears do that rather than smoothly changing up or down? I will check out the mickle method, thanks

Matt


----------



## screenman (7 Jan 2018)

Jet wash and blow dry with air line for me.


----------



## MiK1138 (7 Jan 2018)

A tip if you use spray wax, don't apply it in -2 degrees and then go searching for a cloth to polish it. came back out and wax just flaked off the bike DOH!


----------



## ChrisEyles (7 Jan 2018)

Matt49 said:


> Thanks for your replies. Why pay attention to wheel rims so much, is that so the brake pads run clean? Cycle wash as attached. The bloke said in the shop that my bike being dirty was the reason the chain would come off at least once a ride so every 25 miles I'd say it comes off once mainly when I switch from the 1st to 3rd crank or vice versa, does jumping across the gears do that rather than smoothly changing up or down? I will check out the mickle method, thanks
> 
> Matt



Depends on what the soil type and state of the roads is where you ride, but I find the red sandy soil around here hell on wheel rims and brake blocks. Leads to premature wear of both rim and block, and lots of messy black gungy alumnium paste if you don't clean it often. Grit can also get stuck in your brake pads, leading to a scoring motion on the rim when you apply the brakes, so best to pick it out when you clean the bike. 

The chain has to be pretty manky to jump off (assuming the derailleurs are indexed nicely), but it does run smoother and quieter for being cleaned and oiled. Jumping from the 1st to 3rd chainring on a triple can cause the chain to derail, but you can look at adjusting the limit screws on your front derailleur to help, and possibly all together prevent this. Guess you know already, but it also helps to ease off on the pedal pressure while you're shifting.


----------



## NorthernDave (7 Jan 2018)

My cleaning routine - takes 10 minutes unless the bike is absolutely filthy

Hosepipe
Muc-off bike cleaner
Wait 3-5 minutes
Hosepipe again
Dry off with a microfibre cloth
Mickle the chain using the lube of your preference - ask 50 CycleChatters and you'll get 50 different opinions on this one 
GT85 on cables and other moving parts (using the little red straw)


----------



## johnnyb47 (7 Jan 2018)

Hi Matt and welcome to Cycle Chat buddy.
If like me, a hose pipe is a bit awkward to get out this time of year ,I just use one of those pressurized garden sprayers. The type that you pump and not the smaller trigger type. I just fill it up before I go for ride, and as soon as I get back after a ride, I give the bike a good spray, with the mud on the bike is still wet. It seems to do a good job at washing off all the crud. A quick spray of Wd 40 or Gt85 over the gears and its good to go. 
Hope this helps buddy


----------



## Matt49 (7 Jan 2018)

I realise even after spending my childhood on a chopper and then a racer that I know little. I can't do any mechanical fixing, never felt inclined to bother as a teenager, perhaps I should have tinkered with it, as for derailleurs indexing :-/ !!! I think I need to watch some you tube bike videos. 

Why is there red sandy soil in Devon? I spent some time in the Australian outback once where there is red soil but Devon is a green and pleasant hilly land unlike Hertfordshire.


----------



## ChrisEyles (7 Jan 2018)

Devon has a lot of sandstone, which I guess accounts for the reddish gritty soil. 

You tube is ace for how-to videos. There's a lot of useful stuff to be found on CycleChat with the search function too, and plenty of helpful people on hand if you can't find what you're looking for that way.


----------



## NorthernDave (7 Jan 2018)

johnnyb47 said:


> If like me, a hose pipe is a bit awkward to get out this time of year ,I just use one of those pressurized garden sprayers. The type that you pump and not the smaller trigger type. I just fill it up before I go for ride, and as soon as I get back after a ride, I give the bike a good spray, with the mud on the bike is still wet. It seems to do a good job at washing off all the crud.



Good advice, I used to do this before I put the outdoor tap in.


----------



## ChrisEyles (7 Jan 2018)

If you use a hosepipe with a pressurised trigger end on, be careful not to point it directly at the headset bearings on either end of the head tube, it can be quite easy to blast the grease out if you've not got a sealed headset. 

How do I know...? Don't ask but let's just say I need to re-grease the bearings on the headset of my MTB after a muddy Exmoor ride!


----------



## bpsmith (7 Jan 2018)

There’s a cracking video on GCN on YouTube where they blast a bottom bracket bearing with a proper pressure washer. It takes a long time of direct high pressure to even let any water through. A lower pressure garden sprayer would do nothing at all to your bearings.

It’s a myth basically.


----------



## PaulSB (8 Jan 2018)

Welcome Matt. We all ride machines in the form of beautiful bikes but they are still machines. All machinery benefits from and works better as a result of good maintenance. I’m retired now and have plenty of time for bike cleaning but when I worked my routine after a ride is below.

My top tip is to spend some time getting your chain, rear cassette, chain rings and jockey wheels spotlessly clean. Get off every bit of dirt. Invest in a quality lube suitable for the conditions and apply very sparingly. If you do this and clean as below your drive chain will run very smoothly, last longer and be simple to keep clean. Check the “Mickle method” and adapt to your own situation. Quality lubes are great value if used correctly and sparingly - my current bottles are 2-3 years old.

1. Wipe chain thoroughly to remove dirt
2. Spray bike with hose or garden sprayer.
3. Bucket of hot, soapy water. I use car shampoo but anything will do - it’s not in contact with the bike long enough to do harm.
4. Rinse thoroughly
5. Bounce bike gently a few times to shake off water
6. Have shower myself then back to bike
6. Wipe down with dry cloth
7. Lube as needed
8. Clean rims with small amount of white spirit. You’ll be amazed at the oil gunk which comes off!!

The actual bike cleaning shouldn’t take more than 15-20 minutes or less. I always did the washing before getting changed myself. If I showered first I tended to ignore the bike.

Every 4-6 weeks spend a couple of hours on a very thorough degrease and clean. At this point make sure the drive chain is spotless again. Polish the bike carefully. I use Mr Sheen but many other products work.

Start with a clean bike and it’s quick and easy to keep it clean.


----------



## Matt49 (8 Jan 2018)

Ok, yes hose pipe is used.


----------



## Matt49 (8 Jan 2018)

Thanks for all your replies guys, I will reread these again until I fall into some form of cleaning habit! Trying to get out today, so hard though, want the summer!


----------



## bpsmith (8 Jan 2018)

At this time of year it’s important to at least hose off the salt, if you do nothing else.


----------



## Ticktockmy (8 Jan 2018)

I feel guily now of neglected , I am sorry to say I dont bother much with all this cleaning stuff, having a MTB if it gets too muddy I leave it out in the rain and let nature do the job, when the chain get too grungy I just pull it through a Muc-Off chain cleaner. And give it a good service once every 3 month or4 months or so. Now and then when the frame looks a little sparkling I spray it with Household Mr Sgeene wax which seem to help the crap fall of easly.


----------



## The Central Scrutinizer (8 Jan 2018)

Am i missing something here but isn't water the major factor in causing rust?


----------



## vickster (8 Jan 2018)

What is this 'cleaning' of which you speak? Dirty bike = time to change for new bike


----------



## bpsmith (8 Jan 2018)

The Central Scrutinizer said:


> Am i missing something here but isn't water the major factor in causing rust?


Nope. Oxygen is.


----------



## nickyboy (8 Jan 2018)

A new innovation for me......

Back from a cold, damp and salty ride on best bike (problem with the winter bike). Took my water bottle inside and filled it up with fairly warm water. Then proceeded to squirt it all over the drivechain and also the bits that had got a bit muddy. Took a couple of bottles to do it but v fast and, I suspect, a reasonable way to quickly get the salt off as the warm water jet is easy to aim 

Left it outside to dry for an hour or two. Then back inside and a quick wipe of the chain with a rag to get moisture off. Job done


----------



## alicat (8 Jan 2018)

Good idea, just don't mix it up with the bottles you take on a ride.


----------



## ianrauk (8 Jan 2018)

nickyboy said:


> Took my water bottle inside and filled it up with fairly warm water. Then proceeded to squirt it all over the drivechain and also the bits that had got a bit muddy. Took a couple of bottles to do it but v fast and, I suspect, a reasonable way to quickly get the salt off as the warm water jet is easy to aim
> 
> Left it outside to dry for an hour or two. Then back inside and a quick wipe of the chain with a rag to get moisture off. Job done



This is what I do with my commute bike when I get to work. Quick wash down with the bottle and given a good raggin'


----------



## welsh dragon (8 Jan 2018)

Good lord. After hearing what everyone else does, i might be tempted to clean my bike. Only tempted mind you. I shall have to have a think about it first.


----------



## s7ephanie (8 Jan 2018)

i didn't know one was supposed to clean a bike !!


----------



## ianrauk (8 Jan 2018)

welsh dragon said:


> Good lord. After hearing what everyone else does, i might be tempted to clean my bike. Only tempted mind you. I shall have to have a think about it first.





s7ephanie said:


> i didn't know one was supposed to clean a bike !!



Tsk Tsk


----------



## welsh dragon (8 Jan 2018)

ianrauk said:


> Tsk Tsk




I know. I should be ashamed, and you def put me to shame where cleaning bikes is concerned.


----------



## Matt49 (9 Jan 2018)

So my efforts so far have been to extract the most lazy advice out of all your comments. Get home, hose down bike, bounce it around, wipe down with cloth, put back in shed lol! Question though, am I not hosing off the GT Oil that I sprayed on the cranks, chain and derailer (?) before my ride so then I have to respray next time or is the stuff water resistant?

Complete change of subject but I'd like a trainer road. I looked online on amazon and felt like I was putting my head in a lions mouth. I just want something cheap to plonk my back wheel in and 'talks' to strava? Should I start a new thread?


----------



## mjr (9 Jan 2018)

Matt49 said:


> So my efforts so far have been to extract the most lazy advice out of all your comments. Get home, hose down bike, bounce it around, wipe down with cloth, put back in shed lol! Question though, am I not hosing off the GT Oil that I sprayed on the cranks, chain and derailer (?) before my ride so then I have to respray next time or is the stuff water resistant?


Yeah, you should probably use a water disperser like GT85 on those bits after washing, then mickle it before the next ride. If you do nothing else, water disperser and wipe after each wet ride, else the chain can rust near-solid more quickly than I think.



Matt49 said:


> Complete change of subject but I'd like a trainer road. I looked online on amazon and felt like I was putting my head in a lions mouth. I just want something cheap to plonk my back wheel in and 'talks' to strava? Should I start a new thread?


Yes, new thread, then your questions might get spotted by people who like that but don't want to discuss bike cleaning.


----------



## HLaB (9 Jan 2018)

I don't if someone has said it but baby wipes are good for wiping things down, they are incredibly good at cleaning things without any danger of chemicals (or a jet washer) doing damage to your bike.


----------



## mjr (10 Jan 2018)

HLaB said:


> I don't if someone has said it but baby wipes are good for wiping things down, they are incredibly good at cleaning things without any danger of chemicals (or a jet washer) doing damage to your bike.


But please get ones that decompose / biodegrade. Oh and don't use the same wipe to clean your kitchen worktops afterwards  https://www.theguardian.com/lifeand...fatbergs-sewers-spreading-superbugs-hospitals


----------



## PaulSB (11 Jan 2018)

Matt49 said:


> Question though, am I not hosing off the GT Oil that I sprayed on the cranks, chain and derailer (?) before my ride so then I have to respray next time or is the stuff water resistant?



Can I ask why you’re applying GT Oil in that fashion?


----------



## MontyVeda (12 Jan 2018)

PaulSB said:


> Can I ask why you’re applying GT Oil in that fashion?


at a guess, as a light lube for the drive.


----------



## PaulSB (12 Jan 2018)

MontyVeda said:


> at a guess, as a light lube for the drive.



I feel this is more likely to attract dirt. I’d 60 miles on filthy lanes today. Two minute wipe with an old cloth afterwards and the chain was gleaming.


----------



## Mattk50 (19 Jan 2018)

Is this wrong? I'm hosing down and drying off after each ride then spraying the chain and cranks with GT85 to lubricate and stop the chain from rusting.


----------



## mjr (19 Jan 2018)

Matthew Knight said:


> Is this wrong? I'm hosing down and drying off after each ride then spraying the chain and cranks with GT85 to lubricate and stop the chain from rusting.


I'd keep the water off the chain and bearings and use the mickle method, but as you can see from above, others disagree.

I also use a wax car wash rather than plain water, hoping that at least some crud will fail to breach the wax.

I don't think anyone's done robust independent experiments on this, so let a thousand snake oil flowers bloom!


----------



## Mattk50 (19 Jan 2018)

Ok so order is hose (not too violently) and brush, degrease (Except chain), wipe down, lube using mickle method . My lube is a dry one, do I need a wet one? Its ridiculously expensive as well. Any cheaper recommendations?


----------



## bpsmith (19 Jan 2018)

It’s only expensive if you put too much on!


----------



## Tin Pot (19 Jan 2018)

Matt49 said:


> So my efforts so far have been to extract the most lazy advice out of all your comments. Get home, hose down bike, bounce it around, wipe down with cloth, put back in shed lol! Question though, am I not hosing off the GT Oil that I sprayed on the cranks, chain and derailer (?) before my ride so then I have to respray next time or is the stuff water resistant?
> 
> Complete change of subject but I'd like a trainer road. I looked online on amazon and felt like I was putting my head in a lions mouth. I just want something cheap to plonk my back wheel in and 'talks' to strava? Should I start a new thread?



If you’re riding every other day, it’s pointles getting precious about it - I’d say your doing ok.

I wouldn’t even hose mine down, just wipe the chain and rims, maybe oil or spray the cassette.

The funny thing is that through months of it, the bike will be fine. But leave it in the shed for a month and the thing will look like it’s ready for the tip(!)

(See the links in my sig for more)


----------



## PaulSB (20 Jan 2018)

Matthew Knight said:


> Ok so order is hose (not too violently) and brush, degrease (Except chain), wipe down, lube using mickle method . My lube is a dry one, do I need a wet one? Its ridiculously expensive as well. Any cheaper recommendations?



First as I’ve previously suggested get the whole drive chain seriously clean.

For riding every other day I would:

1. Wipe chain to remove all gunky muck.

2. Hose down after every ride at whatever pressure comes out of the tap when a finger is placed over hose mouth. You cannot possibly do damage.

3. Bounce bike a few times and dry off.

4. Wipe the rims with white spirit till nothing shows on the rag - you’ll be amazed at how much oily residue comes off.

At weekend, presuming you’re working, wash with hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Clean thoroughly when you get the chance. I’d only degrease when I’ve time to get the bike really clean. 

Two main points are to keep the drive chain clean and hose off salt, mud, etc. Ten minutes at most.


----------



## mjr (22 Jan 2018)

I managed to get grit inside the rear hub dust cover on Saturday. I can hear it grinding when the wheel spins. I'll be stripping that wheel down this evening to remove it


----------



## Mattk50 (27 Jan 2018)

Is lubing the chain enough lubrication for the entire drive chain? Doesn't the cassette need oiling as well? I noticed my chain although gleaming yesterday had a bit of rust on the outsides of it :-/


----------



## ianrauk (27 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> Is lubing the chain enough lubrication for the entire drive chain? Doesn't the cassette need oiling as well? I noticed my chain although gleaming yesterday had a bit of rust on the outsides of it :-/


Just the chain is enough. The lube in the chain will also lube the cassette.
Surface rust on chains is no problem. Use a rag to regularly wipe the chain of crap and excess lube. That'll do ya.


----------



## si_c (27 Jan 2018)

I commute around 30 miles a day at the moment, just over half that is on filthy country roads or tracks covered in sheep sh1t. The other half is dual carriageway, which throws up salt and other crap.

I wipe the chain down when I get in from work and am just hosing down and washing at the weekend - nothing serious just a bucket of soapy water and the hose. Bike seems to be doing ok, but it's going to need a deep clean come spring, not done one since I got it.


----------



## Alan O (29 Jan 2018)

I'd planned a ride of about 25 miles yesterday, but I managed to twist my knee quite painfully on Saturday so that was off. Instead, I put some of the time to good use cleaning my tourer and MTB (which I've ridden a couple of times each this month).

I hosed down the frames and wheels and any other bits covered in mud/crud, using a stiff brush to get it all off, and wiped the chains and wheel rims with a rag. I left the bikes to drip dry briefly, and then sprayed the drive chains with GT85 to dispel water. Before I go out on each next time, I'll put a little TF2 oil on the chain. Only about half an hour in all, and time well spent.

I do a fuller clean of chains a couple of times a year, by taking them off (they have quick links) and soaking/cleaning in white spirit.

I never buy fancy cleaning products - if I need soap, washing up liquid is fine. And I stock up on GT85 whenever Aldi is selling it cheap, or I get WD40 whenever it's going cheap at my local weekend market - I don't think I've ever paid more than £2 for a 400ml can.


----------



## Mattk50 (29 Jan 2018)

Whats the point of GT85 or WD40 as a water dispeller? Surely, after drying down your bike and leaving it a few minutes then all the water has gone anyway right?


----------



## Alan O (29 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> Whats the point of GT85 or WD40 as a water dispeller? Surely, after drying down your bike and leaving it a few minutes then all the water has gone anyway right?


Dampness can remain for a long time, especially in a wet chain.


----------



## Racing roadkill (29 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> Whats the point of GT85 or WD40 as a water dispeller? Surely, after drying down your bike and leaving it a few minutes then all the water has gone anyway right?


Never use WD40 ( except the bike specific stuff ), on a bicycle chain. It’s viscous and sticky, and will just trap dirt, which will become like a grinding paste on your sprockets, chainrings, and chain.


----------



## si_c (29 Jan 2018)

WD40 is great at getting rid of water from pivots, or along a brake line, but it's a light lube in an aerosol solvent so will attract dirt and grime to a chain or simply wash out really quickly so you're better off using a proper lubricant or some form of light machine oil.

Nothing wrong with it per-se, but it has it's limitations. I regularly squirt a bit down my brake and gear lines to help keep water out.


----------



## Racing roadkill (29 Jan 2018)

si_c said:


> WD40 is great at getting rid of water from pivots, or along a brake line, but it's a light lube in an aerosol solvent so will attract dirt and grime to a chain or simply wash out really quickly so you're better off using a proper lubricant or some form of light machine oil.
> 
> Nothing wrong with it per-se, but it has it's limitations. I regularly squirt a bit down my brake and gear lines to help keep water out.


It’s great for any bits that aren’t metal on metal, or don’t move much, but it’s really not a great idea to use it in place of a proper lube.


----------



## Alan O (29 Jan 2018)

Racing roadkill said:


> It’s great for any bits that aren’t metal on metal, or don’t move much, but it’s really not a great idea to use it in place of a proper lube.


Definitely not as a replacement for a lube, no. I made that mistake many years ago and was plagued by dirty chains for ages until I worked out what the problem was.


----------



## Mattk50 (29 Jan 2018)

I thought GT85 and WD40 were similar? So GT85 is ok as a spray after washing including on the chain before lubing?


----------



## Alan O (29 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> I thought GT85 and WD40 were similar? So GT85 is ok as a spray after washing including on the chain before lubing?


They are similar, but GT85 has some kind of Teflon stuff added to it which sounds like a good thing, and WD40 does seem to dry out leaving a stickier residue. I use GT85 on my chain frequently to dispel water (including after I've come home in the rain) as I hate leaving chains wet and open to rust, and then use a simple bike oil to lightly relube afterwards. And my chains stay clean, rust-free, and smooth-running.


----------



## Racing roadkill (29 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> I thought GT85 and WD40 were similar? So GT85 is ok as a spray after washing including on the chain before lubing?


GT85 is a PTFE loaded solvent, which leaves PTFE behind upon evaporation. WD40 is a gloopy water dispersant, which is like a dirt magnet.


----------



## Mattk50 (29 Jan 2018)

Nope I didn't know. I typed in PTFE into google and feel like I'm back learning chemistry at school!


----------



## ChrisEyles (29 Jan 2018)

WD40 is a water displacer first and foremost (I've always assumed that's what WD stands for - anyone know if this is right?). Better than nothing but it all evaporates away leaving little protection. It's also a great solvent, so good for cleaning stuff with, but can dissolve out other grease/oil that would be better off left on the chain or in bearings etc. Not ideal for bikes if it's the only thing you use, but certainly has it's uses. 

I don't personally find GT85 that much better for bikes if used by itself for the chain/cassette, but do use it to squirt into cable inners where it's tricky to get light oil in (which I use for preference everywhere I can easily apply it).


----------



## Alan O (29 Jan 2018)

ChrisEyles said:


> (I've always assumed that's what WD stands for - anyone know if this is right?).


Yep, "Water Displacement, 40th formula"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40


----------



## ChrisEyles (29 Jan 2018)

Thanks - one of life's little mysteries solved!


----------



## NorthernDave (29 Jan 2018)

GT85 is a WD40 company...

https://gt85.co.uk/about-us/


----------



## Racing roadkill (29 Jan 2018)

NorthernDave said:


> GT85 is a WD40 company...
> 
> https://gt85.co.uk/about-us/


It is, they’ve got a lot of fingers in a lot of pies.


----------



## Mattk50 (31 Jan 2018)

Is SAS20 of the WD40 or GT85 mould?


----------



## Racing roadkill (31 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> Is SAS20 of the WD40 or GT85 mould?


More like WD40, the residue left behind is sticky.


----------



## Mattk50 (31 Jan 2018)

Is there a water displacer better than GT85?


----------



## Racing roadkill (31 Jan 2018)

Mattk50 said:


> Is there a water displacer better than GT85?


Yes WD40.


----------



## Notxal (15 Feb 2020)

Have a look at Scottolier FS360. Very simple to use, great for the winter and can be washed off with hosepipe or pressure washer


----------



## Phaeton (15 Feb 2020)

Notxal said:


> Have a look at Scottolier FS360. Very simple to use, great for the winter and can be washed off with hosepipe or pressure washer
> 
> Mod edit: link removed.


Do you eat SPAM fritters for tea?


----------



## carlosfandangus (15 Feb 2020)

I used to use a scottoiler on my motorcycles, however soon got fed up of the faff of setting them up to give the correct amount of oil, cant see any benefit to having one on a bicycle, just wipe with a cloth/sponge sprayed with GT85 to clean and then re lube once the solvent has evaporated off


----------



## Notxal (19 Feb 2020)

Scottoiler FS365 is not a Oiling system but a water based corrosion resistant surface protection system. It's formulated using mild alkalis and chemical compounds known as pH buffers that work to balance out the acidic elements. The sprayed surfaces are protected against salt and other contaminants. Ideal for winter use and does not leave a sticky residue.


----------



## BigMeatball (19 Feb 2020)

A few weeks ago I made the rookie mistake of washing the bike with soapy water, which is fine per se, but I also lightly washed the chain, big mistake. Obviously forgot to wipe it dry, then didn't touch the bike for some time because of sucky weather.

Surprise surprise! The chain started to get rusty. It got all dry and the chain links would get stuck on some of the front chainrings. Basically unrideable.








Fast forward to today, got myself some products (muc off drivetrain cleaner, wd-40 chain wet lube, parktool chain cleaner tool and solvent) and cleaned/lubed the chain the best I could




Results are pretty good I have to say, better than expected. The cassette is still a bit dirty but that's because I was out of clean cloth and out of time. Particularly pleased with the chain; even after washing and lubing it, some links were still stuck so had to move them about by hand until they got loosened up.










Lesson learned from today: buy plastic gloves


----------

