# Brompton project



## JhnBssll (27 Oct 2019)

As some may have seen in my wanted post I've managed to find a donor bike for my Brompton project, thanks again to @ABikeCam - I hope to get it back up and running and will document my efforts here 

Here is the bicycle in question:







It has been stripped for spares so there are a few items missing which will need to be sourced, but before then I have a rather lovely set of cracks in the seat tube to try and deal with...






I've shown it to a few of my welder/fabricator friends and responses have ranged from "Ha, good luck with that!" to "That'll MIG up a treat buh..." so I'm not really sure what to expect, other than several hours of entertainment in the garage and plenty of peace and quiet for Mrs Bssll 

One thing that I have read a number of times is never to try and weld a brazed frame, which of course the Brompton main frame is. I've taken this as a challenge and have bought myself a new toy 






First job will be to strip it down and put the parts to one side, then I'll clean the frame up and try and align the cracks before trying to (very cautiously) weld them up, bit by bit, with plenty of cooling. No idea how that will pan out but I've got my lbs looking in to replacement main frame's if/when the worst happens and the brazing melts 

I've sourced some brake bosses and am looking in to the possibility of replacing the caliper brakes with mini V-brakes. For no reason other than it would be a fun project. I've also got a cheap dynamo front wheel on the way, £75 new from eBay  It seems you can get fairly cheap coloured rims so I might look in to those when I've worked out a colourscheme later on - the frame will be getting a full rattlecan respray when I'm done with my tweaks 

Anyway thats all for now, I'll post pics when I have had a chance to make a start. I sincerely hope I don't set fire to anything, it's been an awful long time since I've wielded a welding torch


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## SkipdiverJohn (27 Oct 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> One thing that I have read a number of times is never to try and weld a brazed frame, which of course the Brompton main frame is. I've taken this as a challenge and have bought myself a new toy
> 
> View attachment 490846



Two possible issues are weld contamination from the brass, and joint failure due to heat input.
The latter should not be a problem if you are using MIG, as it has less heat input than MMA (arc) and way way less than gas torch welding. Just do it in short bursts, like when tack welding.
Brass contamination may be an issue if the crack is at a point where it was brazed during farbrication, as it has a lower melting point than steel. You'll just have to hope it doesn't cause any problem.
Get your MIG set up first and play with it on some scrap. Those cheaper machines like the Clarkes have pretty rudimentary wire feeds and are not always very smooth. I've got a similar one and I've also got a semi-professional quality Portamig machine - and the difference in ease of use is like night and day.


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## JhnBssll (27 Oct 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Two possible issues are weld contamination from the brass, and joint failure due to heat input.
> The latter should not be a problem if you are using MIG, as it has less heat input than MMA (arc) and way way less than gas torch welding. Just do it in short bursts, like when tack welding.
> Brass contamination may be an issue if the crack is at a point where it was brazed during farbrication, as it has a lower melting point than steel. You'll just have to hope it doesn't cause any problem.
> Get your MIG set up first and play with it on some scrap. Those cheaper machines like the Clarkes have pretty rudimentary wire feeds and are not always very smooth. I've got a similar one and I've also got a semi-professional quality Portamig machine - and the difference in ease of use is like night and day.



Agreed on all counts  I'm going to try and pop via my local scrap metal merchant on my way home from work tomorrow and see if I can buy some bits for some trial welds


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## JhnBssll (2 Nov 2019)

I've been thinking about what direction to take this bike in a bit recently. My projects have a tendency to escalate quickly and this seems to have happened again 

The dynamo front wheel arrived in the post last week  It's brand new, never had a tyre mounted on it. Total bargain 








Also to arrive this week were the brake bosses - I bought a couple of different types as they were pretty cheap (a few quid each) and I only had a basic picture of them to go off 






Holding them up to the frame and forks it seems I've chosen well, I think they'll work a treat. I just need to practice my welding now 











I've also made a few other purchases  This is where it begins to escalate... Two nice new black rims, one 28 hole to rebuild the dynamo front hub in to and one 36 hole to build up with the bargain Alfine 11 Di2 hub I found on eBay  Of course this means I will need to modify the spacing of the frame but I'll wait for the hub to arrive before I decide how to go about that. Hopefully I can heat it and stretch it rather than having to cut and weld but we shall see... Of course this means I need to keep an eye out for other bargain Di2 bits now and the alfine stuff doesnt seem to come up very often. Fortunately it'll likely take a while to get the frame stripped, repaired, modified and repainted so no pressure 

Next job is to source some reasonably cheap mini v-brakes so I can work out where to put the brake bosses  And of course get some welding time in


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## JhnBssll (3 Nov 2019)

I started the strip down this afternoon  I've got as far as trying to remove the stem but it doesnt seem to want to budge so I've left it soaking in plusgas and will try again another day 






I've hit a couple of minor snags; I don't have a tool that fits the bottom bracket, haven't seen one like this before so will investigate what's needed to whip it out and get something ordered 






The lower hinge bolts were a bugger to release but I got there in the end! I presume I'll be able to get the bits from my lbs (a brompton dealer) to replace the hinge if needed, probably worth doing if I'm able to repair the cracks.






Speaking of cracks, I've found a new one and suspect I may have created it while trying to loosen the stem 






I think the forks are now scrap which is a shame but I'll strip the paint off and see if they're salvagable first. I've found replacement forks for sixty quid so it's far from the most expensive error I've ever made  If the forks are indeed beyond repair it gives me a chance to practice some welding too, I've got a few spare brake bosses so will probably weld a pair on for practice 

Once I get the stem and forks removed I'll pull those headset cups out and in to the bin, there's no place for rusty chrome on this bicycle


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## FrankCrank (4 Nov 2019)

On a recent Raleigh Twenty project, I added some rear brake bosses to the frame, and made a jig to aid holding them for welding. Same jig can be used on forks, so will get good use:


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## rogerzilla (4 Nov 2019)

You need a FAG tool for the BB.


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## JhnBssll (4 Nov 2019)

FrankCrank said:


> On a recent Raleigh Twenty project, I added some rear brake bosses to the frame, and made a jig to aid holding them for welding. Same jig can be used on forks, so will get good use:
> 
> View attachment 491714



Looks like just the job, I was planning on doing something very similar  Building the jig gives me another bit of welding practice too


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## FrankCrank (5 Nov 2019)

.....another thing with brake bosses, at least on all those I've measured, is they are spaced centre to centre at 80mm, give or take a little.
There may be a good reason for this, such as allowing the brake arms to operate correctly, but in any case I'd aim at that spacing.

Not wanting to dampen your enthusiasm, but you really are chucking yourself in at the deep end as regards welding. I TIG weld all my stuff, and O/A would be a second choice, but MIGing would be hard to achieve, especially on brake bosses. Getting two pieces of metal to stick together is not the same as welding 

I hope you have the courage to show us some of your welds prior to attempting this, and best of luck.......


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## Milkfloat (5 Nov 2019)

Totally crazy and not at all cost effective. I love it!


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## JhnBssll (6 Nov 2019)

I just brandished a welding torch for the first time in about 15 years. 20 minutes of playing about with the old brompton seatpost and tweaking the settings and my technique. I started from the left in case it's not entirely obvious 











Clearly theres more practice needed but I'm at least confident now that with some practice I can be reasonable at it, and that's all I'm really aiming for 

A few more bits have arrived but I'll post another update when more has happened. It's been a lousy week so hopefully I'll get more chance to play in the garage and forget about life for a while soon


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## EltonFrog (6 Nov 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> I just brandished a welding torch for the first time in about 15 years. 20 minutes of playing about with the old brompton seatpost and tweaking the settings and my technique. I started from the left in case it's not entirely obvious
> 
> View attachment 492028
> 
> ...


You know you’ve totally fecked that seatpost don’tcha?


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## JhnBssll (6 Nov 2019)

CarlP said:


> You know you’ve totally fecked that seatpost don’tcha?



Nah, that'll buff out


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## tom73 (6 Nov 2019)

Well if nothing else the workmate came out of it well


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## JhnBssll (6 Nov 2019)

tom73 said:


> Well if nothing else the workmate came out of it well



The workmate was purchased specifically for the job  I imagine it will end up with some battle scars


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## FrankCrank (7 Nov 2019)

I'd say by the time you got to JB the settings were about right. What welding stuff did you do 15 years back? Think it's a bit like cycling - you never forget..............so I've heard


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## JhnBssll (7 Nov 2019)

FrankCrank said:


> I'd say by the time you got to JB the settings were about right. What welding stuff did you do 15 years back? Think it's a bit like cycling - you never forget..............so I've heard



Yeah I think I'm close with the settings. Need to get hold of some more steel and try to join some bits together next 

I did an engineering degree and was taught to weld by one of the workshop technicians. I used their welding gear for a few projects and had always intended to buy my own and keep it up, it's just taken me 15 years to realise


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## FrankCrank (7 Nov 2019)

From finishing my engineering days back there to striking another arc over here was a gap of 25 years. Back there it was mostly stick welding, with a little O/A and MIG occasionally. At Foster Wheeler for a while, and we used robotic gear there, which was TIG. Had to learn proper TIG over here by myself, but easy enough once you get used to using both hands. My apprenticeship was 5 years as a fabricator/welder - happy memories of it all looking back......


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## rogerzilla (7 Nov 2019)

Supposedly the mark of a good TIG welder is if they can weld two sheets of baking foil together without blowing a hole in the foil. There's a challenge.


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## steveindenmark (7 Nov 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> I started the strip down this afternoon  I've got as far as trying to remove the stem but it doesnt seem to want to budge so I've left it soaking in plusgas and will try again another day
> 
> View attachment 491712
> 
> ...


There is Brompton hacks page on facebook. It may prove useful.


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## FrankCrank (7 Nov 2019)

rogerzilla said:


> Supposedly the mark of a good TIG welder is if they can weld two sheets of baking foil together without blowing a hole in the foil. There's a challenge.


......baking tins you say............yeah, no problem........


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## rogerzilla (7 Nov 2019)

FrankCrank said:


> ......baking tins you say............yeah, no problem........


No...and not hydrofoils either.


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## JhnBssll (7 Nov 2019)

My mini V-brakes arrived today and my impatience spiked 

















It's not my finest work but it seems solid as I've hit it with a lump hammer a few times and it hasn't moved  The weld wasn't pretty so I've ground it back - I blew a hole in the tube at one point but managed to weld it closed again  I didnt take any photos because frankly I didn't want anyone to see it 

Mounting the brakes on the underside of the stay was a last minute decision - I noticed the top of the arm was going to foul the original brake bridge unless I mounted the bosses at a funny angle and decided to sling them underneath instead  After I'd welded it on I realised it might be in the way of the chain but a few quick checks show there should be a small clearance 

I've just got to do it all again on the other side now, and then stretch the stays out to fit the new hub when it arrives


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## FrankCrank (8 Nov 2019)

....hard to see how the brakes will line up correctly without some kind of a jig? Hopefully you're not planning to sell this on when completed - personally I would not want anything like this done on something I ride, unless I've done the work myself. Maybe it's just an itch you've got to scratch, in which case scratch away, it's very entertaining.......


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## JhnBssll (8 Nov 2019)

It's exactly that itch  

It wont be sold on, I have a bad habit of holding on to my projects


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## JhnBssll (9 Nov 2019)

FrankCrank said:


> ....hard to see how the brakes will line up correctly without some kind of a jig? Hopefully you're not planning to sell this on when completed - personally I would not want anything like this done on something I ride, unless I've done the work myself. Maybe it's just an itch you've got to scratch, in which case scratch away, it's very entertaining.......



I should probably point out that despite my flippant language I'm not just randomly welding bits on without measuring first - I'm also a chartered engineer so there's at least _some_ method behind my madness 

I cold set the rear triangle this morning by clamping the seatstay and chainstay bridges and then putting some threaded stud between the dropouts and gradually winding them open. I put some pretty big washers at either end to spread the load and minimise the dropout deformation, I was concerned they would otherwise have buckled excessively rather than bending the stays. It needs some tweaking but I've managed to squeeze the Alfine 11 Di2 gubbins in and check the alignment, all looks good  I went with the nexus di2 servo unit as it's smaller and I'm planning to mount it upside down as shown in the photos. I would have to remove quite a bit of metal from the chainstay to get it fitted right-side up and I don't think it's worth it just to have Shimano written on the top. The connector is waterproof and I've read reviews stating it gets filled with oil and gunk when it's at the bottom so this may have additional benefits. The only downside I can see is the slightly compromised cable routing but I can live with that, the cable routes on a Brompton aren't pretty at the best of times 
















Next job is to tidy the garage up again before I strip the paint off the other seat stay and weld the other brake boss on  Might get to that later today all being well


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## Pale Rider (9 Nov 2019)

Wouldn't the brakes normally be mounted on the other side of the tube?

I understood the idea was rotation of the wheel would tend to push the brake against the tube rather than away from it.


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## JhnBssll (9 Nov 2019)

It makes no difference to brake function which side of the tube they are, otherwise the front brake would be on the rear of the forks, and actually sometimes they are


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## FrankCrank (9 Nov 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> It makes no difference to brake function which side of the tube they are, otherwise the front brake would be on the rear of the forks, and actually sometimes they are


....agree it makes no odds to brake function. But, you could have cut out the old brake mount from the frame, then spreading to accommodate the hub would be easier. A new piece of straight tube welded back in it's place, and bosses then welded in a more normal position, if that makes sense. Anyways, would be a dull world if we all did things the same way


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## JhnBssll (9 Nov 2019)

FrankCrank said:


> ....agree it makes no odds to brake function. But, you could have cut out the old brake mount from the frame, then spreading to accommodate the hub would be easier. A new piece of straight tube welded back in it's place, and bosses then welded in a more normal position, if that makes sense. Anyways, would be a dull world if we all did things the same way



That would have been a nice solution, but I'm not feeling brave enough to weld structural joints just yet 

Had another play and am really happy with the results  The rear triangle is close to complete now, someone mentioned it would be worth trying to strengthen the storage/transport wheel bracket up top which I may consider but I think I'll strip the paint, treat the rust and prime it while I decide.


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## JhnBssll (11 Nov 2019)

Managed to salvage the forks. No cracks in the brazing around the top boss so I was able to coax it back to almost straight. I think it will be close enough, it only holds the folding clip. I've also now welded the front brake bosses on, I'll build what I have of the bike back up shortly to see what other bits need doing before I strip the paint ready for primer


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## JhnBssll (11 Nov 2019)

Quick build up of some of the other components...











All seems good so far 

Need to decide on a colour at some point. I'm torn between going subtle with a pale olive green or metallic grey or bright and bold with a metallic emerald green or purple


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## rualexander (11 Nov 2019)

Will you have enough tyre clearance after spreading the stays to fit the Alfine?


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## JhnBssll (11 Nov 2019)

rualexander said:


> Will you have enough tyre clearance after spreading the stays to fit the Alfine?



Good question, no idea yet to be honest. I've got some rims and tyres on order and will build them up as soon as I can but until then I won't know for sure. I'll make room one way or another


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## loopybike (12 Nov 2019)

Nice project. 
For the paint, personally I'd go BRIGHT! Show it off!


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## SkipdiverJohn (13 Nov 2019)

Looking at the progress of this project made me realise that, for such an expensive bike, the rear dropouts and fork blades on a Brompton are really no better than the ones on my cheapo Puch 3-speed roadster! That's not to say they aren't fit for purpose, or won't do the job - but elegant they ain't!


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## FrankCrank (13 Nov 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Looking at the progress of this project made me realise that, for such an expensive bike, the rear dropouts and fork blades on a Brompton are really no better than the ones on my cheapo Puch 3-speed roadster! That's not to say they aren't fit for purpose, or won't do the job - but elegant they ain't!


A shopping mall I go to often in BKK has Brommies, and so I had a chance to get a close up perusal. Looking at them in detail I find it hard to believe they cost so much, even the front wheel was radially spoked, which is not a good idea on any bike. I hope to ride one some day to see what all the fuss is about. You're eyes would water if you saw the prices here with all the import taxes added on


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## SkipdiverJohn (13 Nov 2019)

FrankCrank said:


> I hope to ride one some day to see what all the fuss is about. You're eyes would water if you saw the prices here with all the import taxes added on



I've taken one for a spin round the block, and shall we say, the handling wasn't exactly to my liking. I'm not a massive fan of small wheel shopper/commuter bikes in general, although they serve a purpose, but given a choice of say a Brompton or a Dawes Kingpin, I would take the Dawes every time.
The prices of even well-used secondhand Bromptons in the UK are enough to make my eyes water, never mind new ones!


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## JhnBssll (13 Nov 2019)

To tell you the truth I've never ridden one  I imagine it should be pretty good fun to be honest, time will tell 😊

Slight disappointment this evening after finding that the paint is too tough for the blaster at work  It's playing up a bit so I'll have a chat with the workshop tech's and see if it needs tweaking at all and maybe have another go. I'd like to avoid the mess of paint stripper if at all possible 😬

On the plus side the blaster did clean the rust off the stem quill rather nicely


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## ColinJ (13 Nov 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> I've taken one for a spin round the block, and shall we say, the handling wasn't exactly to my liking.


I have never ridden one, but I pushed somebody else's out from Hebden Bridge's Town Hall cafe onto a local road and it did feel distinctly odd-handling to me. Maybe it is different when actually riding, but it didn't make me feel like trying!


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## Drago (13 Nov 2019)

I prefer the ride of the Tern to the Brommy. That said, I'm watching this thread with elevated interest levels.


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## FrankCrank (14 Nov 2019)

...I think their forte is commutes on trains and buses, so a niche product. I've ridden a few bikes with 20" wheels, and for short trips they are ideal. Recently rode one along the Kennet for a few miles, and it was definitely a horse on the wrong course. Have occasionally spotted Brommies on towpaths, guess some people have a higher pain threshold.....


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## LCpl Boiled Egg (14 Nov 2019)

They can be a bit wobbly but having a bag on the front luggage block helps a lot.


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## rualexander (14 Nov 2019)

Like any time you change from one style of bike to another, they feel a bit unusual at first, but you soon adapt and get used to the different characteristics and the ride feels perfectly good.


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## 12boy (15 Nov 2019)

I have a Mercier Nano mini velo and a Xooter Swift folder, both with 20 inch wheels, and both not common on this forum. Just as the Brompton was, as I understand, developed for London traffic, the Swift was designed for New York and minivelos for Tokyo. They're all good but the Brompton is easily my favorite in terms of ride. I think the rubber bung rear suspension and the long wheelbase have a lot to do with that. Another thing at which Bromptons excell is toting stuff...loading the frame in front, coupled with a low center of gravity for the weight, actually improves the ride over crap pavement and makes it seem less twitchy. I will be very interested in how the OP likes the ride when it's done.


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## JhnBssll (15 Nov 2019)

These past few days have been very wheely  The new rims showed up today so I spent a few hours in the garage this afternoon. I'd already bought a dynamo front wheel but had no rear rim so decided to buy two so I had a matching pair. The front wheel was built in a single cross pattern but I decided to go for 2-cross and sized new spokes to suit.

I started with the rear as it was most likely to cause a problem with the two cross pattern due to the wide hub flanges. I needn't have worried because it build up easily enough 😊












Buoyed by my success I took the plunge and stripped down the brand new front wheel 😬






With the hub harvested I went about rebuilding it with new rim and spokes...






I'll likely rebuild the old standard front wheel that came with the bike with this new rim and either keep it as a spare or sell it on to recoup some costs 

Both wheels done and just enough time to pop them in the frame for a test fit before I head out for dinner 
















I'll likely fit tape, tubes and tyres later


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

Had another play when I got in from dinner. First up I refitted the brakes to check everything lines up correctly and rechecked the alignment, she's still straight as an arrow 











The new easywheels arrived this morning so I popped those on and refitted the crank...






Decided to build it up a bit more so on went tyres and tubes...






And while I was at it I figured I'd pop the stem back in and fit the new brake levers to the bars 






This is the first time in my ownership that she has sat on two wheels, that has to be progress 






The lights and chain tensioner are due to arrive tomorrow so more bits to play with


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## SkipdiverJohn (16 Nov 2019)

@JhnBssll , as an engineer, do you regard Brompton's use of hi-tensile in the main frame as parsimonious penny-pinching - or just sensible considering the main tube is curved and has flanges attached to it? 
I can't see that much opportunity to save weight here with butted tubing, nor on any of the generic 20" wheel "shopper" bikes.


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## rualexander (16 Nov 2019)

How much tyre clearance at the chainstay bridge then?
Can we have a close up photo of that please.


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## FrankCrank (16 Nov 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> @JhnBssll , as an engineer, do you regard Brompton's use of hi-tensile in the main frame as parsimonious penny-pinching - or just sensible considering the main tube is curved and has flanges attached to it?
> I can't see that much opportunity to save weight here with butted tubing, nor on any of the generic 20" wheel "shopper" bikes.


...I heard recently that the Brommie design patents had expired, and that clones were being made in China, some of which had titanium frames. Might be worth delving on the web to see what shows up. My understanding is that the same compact frame would not work in ally, as it would need tubes with greater wall thickness, and the whole job would be that much bulkier, and maybe not much lighter. There was a lot of kerfuffle a few years back about a titanium bike called the Helix, with 24" wheels, and claims it would be the smallest folder on the market. Another kickstarter project that went cold........


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## Pale Rider (16 Nov 2019)

Have you tried any test folding?

Clearances on Bromptons are notoriously tight.

I would be concerned something will foul where you least expect it.


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> @JhnBssll , as an engineer, do you regard Brompton's use of hi-tensile in the main frame as parsimonious penny-pinching - or just sensible considering the main tube is curved and has flanges attached to it?
> I can't see that much opportunity to save weight here with butted tubing, nor on any of the generic 20" wheel "shopper" bikes.



In this instance I would say hi-tensile steel was a wise material choice. It's easy to overlook steel as a 'low-tech' and antiquated material but as you know it has some excellent qualities that make it very well suited to some roles, this being one.



rualexander said:


> How much tyre clearance at the chainstay bridge then?
> Can we have a close up photo of that please.



There's not a huge amount of clearance, but clearance there is  I have no idea how much you would expect on an unmodified rear triangle as I had no rear wheel to check with until now 






Excuse my holey shoe at the bottom there, they're too comfy to throw away and perfect for dirty garage jobs 



Pale Rider said:


> Have you tried any test folding?
> 
> Clearances on Bromptons are notoriously tight.
> 
> I would be concerned something will foul where you least expect it.



Point taken, I've just done a test fold as you had me worried  Happy to report everything seems to fold in to the right place, but I won't really know until I've got the proper hooks and catches fitted. A good start and hopefully nothing some minor fettling won't be able to fix though 











Ignore the wonky looking rear wheel in that photo, it wasnt tight and slipped in the dropout


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

Dynamo lights are here  I've just been looking at possible mounting points and cable routes and have come up with a cunning plan. Well, a plan anyway 

Front light will need a new bracket made to bring it closer to the head tube and tyre to prevent fouling:






The rear light is designed to sit on a mudguard but I won't be fitting any. I chose it instead in the hope that it would fit up between the easywheels and it seems I was spot on - again it will need a bracket made but that will be fairly straightforward 😊 The key here will be making sure its high enough for maximum visibility but low enough so as not to hit the floor when folded 






Cable routing is planned as below - rear light cable (red line) will run down inside the seatstay then out and in to the chainstay. The Di2 cable will enter the chainstay at the same point (yellow line) and both will exit in close proximity to the rear brake cable, another reason for mounting the V-brakes underneath the stays. All three cables will then be heatshrunk together and follow the normal cable routing from there to the bars. I'll then run the light cable back down the front brake cable to pick up the front light. I figure this will give maximum protection against repeated folds and snagging.






Anyway, thats the plan for now - these things have a habit of changing so I'm open to other options


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## SkipdiverJohn (16 Nov 2019)

I do like a good tinkering thread, even though it's not the sort of bike I could live with riding. The thought that goes into deciding what to do and how, makes it fascinating to me.


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> I do like a good tinkering thread, even though it's not the sort of bike I could live with riding. The thought that goes into deciding what to do and how, makes it fascinating to me.



Thanks John! In that case I think you'll like this next update too 

Chain Tensioner!

The snazzy aluminium tensioner is here, I'm rather pleased with it  It's designed for a standard brompton rear hub with multiple sprockets so some level of modification was inevitable but having stripped it down I've got a good idea of what I'm going to do 

The first set of modifications are to make it actually bolt on to the bike - quite important  In this case it will have to interface with the Alfine hub bolt and anti-rotation spacer. This spacer (green in the pics) has a small shoulder on the outer edge which I noticed already fits very snuggly in to the hole of the chain tensioner...













It does however stand proud by a little over 2mm when pushed fully home:






I'll pop the spacer in the lathe at work and move the shoulder down ~2mm so that just the teeth and anti-rotation tab of the washer protrude. With this done I'll use a low profile nut to bolt the wheel and washer in place, and then a larger nut and washer to clamp the tensioner over the top. This way the tensioner itself is not holding the wheel in place so it should all be fairly robust. It will make the wheel a little more tricky to remove but these things are a fiddle at the best of times 

The second set of modifications are to align the idler sprockets with the chain. I was a little more concerned about this topic as I didn't know the construction of the tensioner when I ordered it, I just went on the assumption that something made of metal will be easier to modify than something made of plastic  On this tensioner the idler's are able to slide laterally to allow the chain to move between sprockets when changing gear on a standard Brommie. There is about 15mm of travel (estimated, not measured) and the photo below is taken in the fully extended position.






As predicted, due to the spacing of the Alfine hub allowing for the Di2 motor, the chainline is further inboard from the dropout than is currently allowed by this tensioner. Ignore the pulley top left, it looks miles out but this is just a trick of perspective. Behind the chainstay you can just make out the lower pulley, I estimate it will need extending inboard by an extra 5 or 10mm. I don't have the sprocket yet so it's hard to tell 






To find out what changes are needed I first had to take it to bits to find out how it's constructed  I don't know if you've noticed yet, but I quite like taking things to pieces... I was pleasantly surprised to find a very simple construction which requires only minor modifications to fit my requirements 






The bolt and spacer tube in the centre of the picture are what set the maximum extension range of the idler. By adjusting the length of this spacer tube and bolt I can fine tune its lateral position. I'll also make a second, larger diameter spacer to put behind the idler assembly to fix it's position so it can no longer slide in as I don't need this function with my single rear sprocket 😊

So that should be relatively straight forward but I can't start until the sprocket arrives and I can measure things up properly  I'll have to get to work on the light brackets instead for now


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## ColinJ (16 Nov 2019)

This is a very interesting project (which I am enjoying following), but... what happened about the cracked seat tube? That looked like real show-stopper to me!


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

ColinJ said:


> This is a very interesting project (which I am enjoying following), but... what happened about the cracked seat tube? That looked like real show-stopper to me!



A valid point - it's still on the list of things to do but I want to get the paint off the main frame first so I can keep an eye on the brazed joint while I weld it up. I've shown it to a few people, including a Brompton dealer, and theyre confident the cracks can be fixed. I'll document my efforts when I get to that bit  Some searching revealed Tredz appear to sell replacement main frames for £150 so if the worst were to happen I know I can replace it and the project will live on


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## 12boy (16 Nov 2019)

I, too, was wondering about the seat tube. I am also unclear on the rear brake routing and have some concern for too many curves n the cable. Fenderless Bromptons seem to be unusual although the Brompton Explore is one such. What are you planning to do with this bike since it seems your work has a definite purpose?


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

12boy said:


> I, too, was wondering about the seat tube. I am also unclear on the rear brake routing and have some concern for too many curves n the cable. Fenderless Bromptons seem to be unusual although the Brompton Explore is one such. What are you planning to do with this bike since it seems your work has a definite purpose?



I don't really have a plan for the bike once it's finished, it's a project to keep me entertained more than anything else. I am considering keeping it under my desk at work to whip in and out of town at lunchtimes  I'll probably use it to commute on occasionally but I have other bikes for that already that are more suitable for the task  I just want it to be a little different and will have some fun making it such 

On that note I've been doing some CAD modelling - I've measured up and created a short section of seat stay and modelled the rear light so far, now for the fun bit - designing the mount ready for 3D printing


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## rualexander (16 Nov 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> There's not a huge amount of clearance, but clearance there is  I have no idea how much you would expect on an unmodified rear triangle as I had no rear wheel to check with until now
> 
> View attachment 493040



Thanks, that's more clearance than I was expecting from what I've read previously elsewhere. Might be tempted to try and put my Alfine 8 into my Brompton.


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## JhnBssll (16 Nov 2019)

I've designed a bracket, now printing it off for the first time to see what tweaks are needed to the geometry


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## 12boy (16 Nov 2019)

After you learn how very nice a Brompton is for commuting you may think again. The ability to carry a load in the front on the frame is amazing especially as that low center of gravity actually improves the handling. Keep us posted after the bike is finished and you ride it, please.


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## Gunk (16 Nov 2019)

Great project, I’m looking forward to seeing finished, have you made a decision on paint/colour?


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## JhnBssll (17 Nov 2019)

No decision on paint yet but I've got a few ideas... I'm still torn between keeping it subtle and subdued or shouty and bright 

First print out of the light bracket went well - the light fits the bracket almost perfectly (which to be honest I wasn't expecting first time!) but I've got the spacing a little out on the seat stay clamp features so I have another set of bits printing now  Should do the job nicely  If the next set fit well I'll print a final set at a slightly better resolution


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## JhnBssll (17 Nov 2019)

I've printed an updated lower mount, it now fits perfectly to both light and seatstays  With this confirmed I've started the top part printing after tweaking the 3D printer a little - this print was better than the previous ones but if it can be improved slightly for the top part I may as well try


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## JhnBssll (19 Nov 2019)

I wasnt happy with the angle or height of the light when I test fit the mount so I've made another iteration of it 






This time it sits higher points almost directly back rather than dipped down as it was before...






Just need to print the bottom half of it and I can call it done 

In other news the sprocket has arrived so I've fitted that to the hub and checked the chain line. It was a bit out so I've shifted the chainring to the inside of the crank spider. This is far better but the chainring is only a couple of mm from the pivot now. I'll have a play with some BB spacers to move this over a little and that should be about right  I've also got a 44t ring on the way which should better suit the Alfine hub.

Next job is to get the chain tensioner mods underway


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## JhnBssll (20 Nov 2019)

One of my colleagues turned down the spacer this morning, it now fits the tensioner a treat  He blasted the green paint off toowhile he was at it 
















I'll pop it on the bike later this evening and take some measurements to get the idler spacing sorted tomorrow


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## 12boy (21 Nov 2019)

Lookin good!


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## JhnBssll (22 Nov 2019)

I managed to spare some time on the Brommie yesterday evening but forgot to post my progress. With the anti-rotation washer modified I fitted the tensioner and went about replacing the idler spacers to get the correct alignment. This ended up being relatively easy as I had some black nylon spacers in just the right size in one of my handy drawers of odds and sods 











That done I popped the chain on and immediately found a problem - the upper idler back plate clashed with the spokes  I've removed enough material to create some clearance and will tidy it up later.






With that done it all runs rather nicely 











Next time to check the fold again...
















I did come across one minor niggle that I had predicted but not fully thought through - when folded the chain touches the brake boss bolt. I'm not convinced this really matters and don't intend to change it but it'll probably bug me every time I notice it 






All in all pretty good progress though!


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## Gunk (22 Nov 2019)

Looking good


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## tom73 (22 Nov 2019)




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## JhnBssll (29 Nov 2019)

A few more bits have arrived so I spent an hour or so playing with the Brompton this evening 

First up I whipped the bottom bracket out to fit the spacer and try to get the chain alignment right...






While the crank arm was off I replaced the chainring with the 44t hobby that arrived yesterday.

Next up was the new spring and seatclamp assembly...






It looks pretty funky, time will tell how annoying it is in the real world  Rear end built back up and she now looks like this...






Getting there! So how on to the front end. New Brooks Cambrium grips (matching saddle en route) fitted and Alfine gear display fitted to the lh side.






New folding stem spring clip fitted to the forks.






And another test fold for good measure...


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## Randomnerd (30 Nov 2019)

Interesting thread. Your grips might give you a lead with paint colour. I'm thinking desert camouflage would look the business.


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## Justinitus (30 Nov 2019)

Very interesting thread this!

Does the smaller chainring solve the issue with the chain touching the brake boss?


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## Gunk (30 Nov 2019)

Just gun metal grey with Brompton decals would good, people would think that it’s a new higher spec factory bike


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## 12boy (30 Nov 2019)

I have followed this journey with some interest, being impressed with your craftsmanship and persistence in achieving a goal so completely opposed to how mine is set up, but completely right for you. I look forward to seeing each step realized, but have to wonder if the the seat post crack was ever resolved properly. I have often wondered why the strategy of a plastic seat post insert was adopted for these bikes when others which use the sliding seat post idea do not. This issue and the process of replacing the rear triangle bushing are the two things I like least about these fine little bikes since I don't think I could do a good job myself.


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## JhnBssll (30 Nov 2019)

Thanks for your comments. I love the process of analysing a design and working out how I can modify it to better suit my requirements. It's very satisfying to see it come to life and can be equally frustrating along the way 

Regarding the cracks in the frame these are indeed still there. It's a job I haven't gotten round to yet, but might have a go at it this evening if it's not too cold in the garage 😂

I've got a new seatpost and a saddle is on the way but haven't bought the nylon insert yet - as soon as the frame has been welded successfully I'll get one on order  I understand they're bonded in to the frame, I assume it's an epoxy used for this but would be interested to hear if anyone has any experience in doing this job


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## 12boy (30 Nov 2019)

My experience was I botched it. I then sent it via mail to a bike shop 1200 miles away and they redid it with a new one and reamed out the insert. The inserts are superglued in place, I believe.


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## JhnBssll (30 Nov 2019)

Thanks to @12boy I was spurred on this evening to tackle the main job - the cracks in the frame. To recap, this is what they looked like when I bought the bike...







So first stage was to strip the bike back down, which was a shame as it was starting to look like a real bicycle at last with all the bits that had arrived recently 






Next step was to remove the paint around the affected joint. I wanted to check that the brazing was in good shape before I started to make sure it was actually worth saving  I had tried sand blasting the stem with limited success so went straight for the Nitromors. It makes a mess but it gets the job done 






Once I'd let that blister for a while I scraped most of it off with a metal scraper and then went over it with a rotary wire brush until I was left with this...






Super shiny, and all of the brazing looks spot on  So with that confirmed I moved on to stage three, cleaning up the area around the cracks. I managed to fashion a lever out of a very small screwdriver and an allen key that allowed me to put just enough force on to the area to pull the cracks back in to alignment - they weren't perfect but they were much better. I then ground the metal around the cracks to make sure the welds would be as clean as possible.






As you can see there really isn't a lot of room for maneouvre with a welding torch in there  I had a few practice goes with the welder turned off and then bit the bullet and turned it on... Spoiler - it went pretty well!  Unfortunately I got carried away and banged all four welds in before I thought to take any photos  I took it pretty slowly, welding a bit then blowing air over it for a few mins to take the heat out and repeating until they were all done...








There was a bit of spatter but honestly they're much neater than I expected to achieve in the space available. I've now started filing them down so it currently looks like this...






Theres a bit more filing to do as you can still see the edges of the welds. I don't know how tight the tolerances are on the fit of the seatpost shim but the most important thing is the cracks are no more  If you're worried that you think you can see cracks in the image above, I assure you they're gone - the edges of a couple of the welds look like cracks with the camera flash. This tricked me at first, I had to go back down to the garage and double check to make sure I hadn't very neatly welded alongside the cracks 

It couldn't really have gone much better 

So on to paint! I think I've made a decision  I really like @woodenspoons suggestion of desert camo so I'm going to attempt to recreate something like this, matching the colours of the grips and saddle plus another couple of similar shades. Maybe even a rogue bright colour but I haven't got that far yet 






Next job is to finish stripping the paint off the frame, forks and rear triangle. That will take some time in itself so I have a while to think about it


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## tom73 (30 Nov 2019)

As for colour rhubarb and custard combo. Go wild you know you want to


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## Justinitus (1 Dec 2019)

What about lacquer, so you can see all that lovely brazing? Maybe a tinted one like ruby?


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## 12boy (1 Dec 2019)

I know this is probably nuts.....I have been shellacking bar tape and twining tape ends on my bikes for about a decade and use twining for other things like stainless steel water bottles, knife handles etc. In the course of this since I am too lazy to mask the bar and brake levers next to the twine, shellac gets on the metal parts and I've learned it does not come off easily. Shellac is available premixed or in a dry form which is mixed with alcohol since shellac in insoluble in water, only alcohol. Normally comes in clear, amber and garner. When applies it is transparent, sort of. It sort of self levels so is naturally smooth. If scratched or beat up it's very easy to just apply a fresh coat. I don't know if this is the same as the expensive lacquered finish on high end Bromptons but I really love seeing the brass in the brazed joints. If I have occasion to strip another frame I will mix some amber and garnet shellac and do the frame that way, creating a tangerine color. Hopefully, the metal, including the brazing, will shine through. Rattle canning is another option and can look pretty good if done with care and allowed weeks in a warm environment to achieve full hardness. Obviously powder coating is the most durable but a camo powder coat, if doable, would require some skill. I am very impressed with that seat post repair and am looking forward to seeing whatever paint job you come up with as I am sure it will be amazing.


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## JhnBssll (1 Dec 2019)

I had a look at colours this evening. These are the grips I would like to match:






I had a look on the RAL website and went through some colour charts. The closest I can get are RAL 1002, Sand Yellow, and RAL 1013, Oyster White:









Next I checked a few more colour charts out and chose a third camo-esque colour, RAL 8028, Terra Brown as it seemed to match the first two quite nicely.






For colour number four I have decided to go rogue - I had a look through the brighter RAL colours and settled on RAL 230 60 35, so wild it doesnt have a name  Here it is...






One of my friends is following my build and I ran the colours by her. She suggest I send the camo pattern and colours over to her and a short while later she sent me this back after some digital wizadry 






I think it looks pretty cool  I'll use less of the rogue colour in the final camo design but will probably paint the stem in that colour only. I'll lay it down as the first coat and intend to make my own stencils so I will try and recreate the Brompton logo in this colour as well  Might as well give myself a proper challenge afterall 

This evening I've ordered a cutting board and some A4 sheets of stencil vinyl and sent an email off to paints4u to ask a few questions - all being well they'll come back to me early in the week and I can order up the rattle cans 

I should really think about stripping the rest of the paint


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## 12boy (2 Dec 2019)

The blue in the camo reminds me of what one of my friends said many decades ago while tripping on LSD..purple woul be such a nice color if there wasn't so much orange in it.


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## CXRAndy (9 Dec 2019)

Consider sleeving the down tube. drill holes and puddle weld


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## JhnBssll (14 Dec 2019)

A bit of progress today as wind and rain put me off the club ride this morning and wifey is away until tomorrow 

I took the opportunity to strip the rest of the paint off the main frame and forks...
















Plenty of Nitromors and a rotary wire brush attachment in the grinder made it fairly light work, if a little noisy 

I had ordered a long wire brush attachment for the drill to try and take the majority of the loose rust off the inside of the seat tube, it seems to have worked quite well. Once the frame is painted externally I'll mask it up and get some hammerite down the inside of the tube before the insert is glued in place to try and prevent it rusting further.











Next job was to pop the headset cups out of the frame. The bearing surfaces were a bit lumpy and needed replacing anyway so I didnt have to be too careful but they came out fairly easily.






Next up I thoroughly cleaned and degreased the frame and forks a couple of times using new, clean cloths each time to dry them down and then on with some etch primer!











I'm pretty pleased with how it went on but there are a couple of imperfections that I'll need to flat back and touch up before the first colour coat goes on. Pretty good for rattle cans anyway 

Next job is to move the frame and forks to one side once they're dry before stripping the paint off the rear triangle and stem and priming them  I hope to get on to that later this evening after I've had a bite to eat


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## JhnBssll (14 Dec 2019)

Managed to get the paint stripped off the stem and primer applied, I'll have to do the rear triangle tomorrow otherwise I'll upset the neighbours 






Theres a small dent to fill in the stem, also one on the forks and one on the rear triangle. I'll do them tomorrow too if I get a chance


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## ColinJ (14 Dec 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> Theres a small dent to fill in the stem, also one on the forks and one on the rear triangle. I'll do them tomorrow too if I get a chance


Ah - I thought I'd noticed a dent or two in some of the pictures! I had intended to ask.

I am enjoying following the project. It would have been easier (and possibly cheaper? ) to buy a new Brompton but if I had the skills and equipment I would have a go at something like this.


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## JhnBssll (14 Dec 2019)

I think it will come out at less than £600 all in, including the original purchase price. So slightly cheaper than a new one, but that's not why I'm doing it  Its more about the journey than the destination, I'll be a little sad when its finished


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## Gunk (14 Dec 2019)

£600 will be a bargain, you’ve done a great job, really high quality work.


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## 12boy (15 Dec 2019)

That seat post tube looks cherry except for the rust. Way to go dude! 
I am building a mini vardo on a 4x8 light trailer, and really can't do much more until the temps get above 40 F and the wind below 20 mph. Still, it's been a lot of fun so far and while I may not get another shot till February I really am looking forward to painting it artistically, since the structure is pretty much built and primarily needs to be painted and put together some. These kind of projects are so much fun!


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## tom73 (15 Dec 2019)

Nice one


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## 12boy (19 Dec 2019)

Are we there yet?


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## JhnBssll (19 Dec 2019)

Haha no I'm afraid not. I haven't had a chance to get in the garage since the last update, the frame is still in primer and hanging from the roof timbers  I finish work for the year in an hour so should be able to post some updates soon


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## 12boy (19 Dec 2019)

What kind of paint? I have found rattlecan paint takes a couple of weeks to fully harden. In the summer months I put the frame in one of my cars as it gets about 140 F inside, sitting in the sun, but that won't do doodley squat at this time of year. One of my favorites for beater bikes is Rustoleum hammered bronze as the metalflakey finish obscures all kind of flaws.


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## JhnBssll (19 Dec 2019)

Yeah its rattlecan etch primer so will take a while to fully cure  Heres a lineup of some of the paint that will be going on 









I drilled a hole in the frame today then gave it another coat of primer 






The hole will be for a Di2 wire to go into the main frame tube where I will be mounting the battery  I've tried to locate it far enough away from the brazed joint so as not to weaken it, but close enough so the wire picks up the brake cable without too much slack. Only time will tell if I've succeeded 

I've now run out of etch primer and the rear triangle hasnt even had its first coat yet  Just ordered another can, and two more of laquer as I'm aiming for a nice thick protective layer over the top


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## 12boy (20 Dec 2019)

What's the Di2 wire for? Must have missed that part.


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## JhnBssll (20 Dec 2019)

12boy said:


> What's the Di2 wire for? Must have missed that part.



I'm fitting Alfine 11 Di2, I'm installing the battery in the main tube so need a hole to run the wire through to connect the battery to the rest of the system 

I spent a few hours using the works shotblaster this afternoon, the rear triangle is now completely free of paint and I've started filling the dents  All the brazing looks spot on after the cold setting so I'm pleased with that! I also pressed in a small depression in the chainstay bridge to give a little extra tyre clearance for good measure, I'd be annoyed to find I needed it after I'd painted it 






More filling and sanding later, new primer arrives Monday but I might look at putting some colour on the stem and frame later


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## 12boy (20 Dec 2019)

Do love that brass brazing. Thanks on the wire....so it shifts the hub?


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## Drago (21 Dec 2019)

You using a 2K lacquer such as spray max?


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## JhnBssll (21 Dec 2019)

I considered 2k but haven't used it before and was worried about reactions. Sticking with 1k satin laquer but have 4 cans of it so will put several coats down and hope its tough enough


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## Drago (21 Dec 2019)

I've used it many times, you'll be cool  

It cures proper hard, and gives a glassy pro finish which doesnt dull slightly with time like 1K. It ain't cheap though.

Great project, keep the updates coming.


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## berlinonaut (21 Dec 2019)

Just stumbled upon this thread. Very interesting project! Before you start the final painting I recommend doing some quick checks to avoid running into issues with the final build. Until now you are still able to change relevant things and I think you maybe will run into trouble with your positioning of the brakes once you do the full build with all bits and pieces. The Brompton is a complex beast due to folding and tight clearances and the cables are part of that game...

1. *Front brake:* It is more comfy to have the break bosses on the rear side of the fork for two reasons:
- easier to deal with the bracket of the front light when the brake is on the back side of the fork
- with your build the brake cable will leave on the drive side which will probably let the cable stick out to the side in folded state, making it uncomfortable as it might get caught easily on obstacles when moving the bike around. In unfolded state you might run into issues regarding the cable routing to the bars, especially if you are using a luggage block with a bag on it.
All three no killers but I do not see any downsides with having the brake behind the forks but the upsides mentioned above.

2. *Rear brake*: Again the cables might be an issue:
- depending from your brake it might get into the way of the bold holding the stop disk to keep the bike folded. It mounts to the bracket that formerly did hold the original brake. I'd heavily recommend to check this as probably the clearance to the break will be very tight or not enough.
- the cable will again leave on the drive side and possibly come into conflict with the chain in folded state. ou won't have both issues with the brake mounted on the rear side of the seat stays.

Other than that: Brompton wheels with 135mm hubs are ususally spoked asyncronouly with shorter, straight spokes on the non-drive side. I am astonished that you have not run into issues with your wheel build yet, with the chain and sprocket as well as regarding tire clearance - but maybe your thankfully slight chainline issues are an outcome of the way you spread the rear fork. Typically 135mm rear forks for the Brompton are a bit asyncronous with the non drive side being spread more than the drive side.

Regarding tire clearance to the short stay in between the chain stays: You can gently dent it with the sharp side of a hammer to increase the clearance. Does no harm and is kind of common on Bromptons with spread rear frame. If you ever want to mount tires like the 40mm Greenspeed you will be thankful... 😊

Regarding the rear light I suspect I may have to come a little lower not to hit the ground. But this is something to change easily even after the build is finished. 😊

Amazing job! Especially the welding of the broken parts inside the seat tube is very interesting!


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## JhnBssll (21 Dec 2019)

Thanks for the detailed information - there are some points in there that I hadn't considered and a few that I had and chose to ignore 

I wanted the cables all on the drive side hence the brake positions. I think this will make the cable routing easier overall when the dyno and Di2 cables are also considered. I'm sure there are some downsides to this but finding them is all part of the fun 

The stop disc - I wondered what that was  I also wondered why the rear did not lock in the folded position  So you have helped me there, I still have the old parts in the garage and will have a play. I don't intend to move the brakes, but I may have to engineer a modified stop disc if the brakes are indeed in the way  Thanks!


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## Pale Rider (21 Dec 2019)

Is your Di2 hole in the frame where you might want to put the Brompton graphic?


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## JhnBssll (21 Dec 2019)

Pale Rider said:


> Is your Di2 hole in the frame where you might want to put the Brompton graphic?



Pretty close isnt it  Hopefully it'll be below the decal


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## Pale Rider (21 Dec 2019)

You might end up with a 'Brompto.n' decal.


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## CXRAndy (26 Dec 2019)

JhnBssll said:


> I considered 2k



Beware of 2k/ 2 pack. They contain isocyanates, extremely toxic, absorbed through skin, eyes and breathing. You need full body protection and airfed mask with active charcoal


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## 12boy (31 Dec 2019)

Sure am hankering to marvel at the finished project in all its glory. Hope I get to see some pctures soon.


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## rogerzilla (31 Dec 2019)

Seatpost sleeve procedure, or at least the one that worked for me:

1. Obtain new sleeve pack. This may no longer be possible as Brompton have stopped supplying most spares to end users.

2. Select the one that fits. One has a locating lug and one doesn't. It depends on the age of your frame.

3. Break out every last remnant of the old sleeve and scrape away the hardened glue. If you are having the frame resprayed, now is the time - blasting really gets the last bits of glue off.

4. Glue in the new sleeve with something like this: 
View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unibond-2146098-Repair-Extreme/dp/B000O1GVXK
It needs to be flexible as well as strong.

5. Wipe all traces of glue from the inside of the sleeve and seat tube and clamp the seatpost in place. Leave for 24 hours.

6. This should be all you need to do. Brompton say the sleeve requires reaming after fitting but mine is a perfect fit as it is. Step 3 is very important, though.


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## JhnBssll (31 Dec 2019)

Not much in the way of progress on this in the last week or so - I'm hoping to get out in to the garage again later so may get some more done this evening, if not hopefully tomorrow  I'm teetotal so not fear of a new years hangover


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## JhnBssll (31 Dec 2019)

Ok so I've had another play this evening 

Decided to get the rear triangle finished. There were only a couple of things to do - remove the pump brackets and the old gear bracket... The pump would no longer fit due to the rear brake location and the gear bracket is not needed due to the move to Alfine 11 Di2 

So first the pump brackets... I hacksawed the bulk of the metal off first and then filed it back flush.






















Pretty striaghforward and fairly quick  Next I did the same to the gear braze-on...











Then a clean and degrease, followed by a few coats of etch primer then in to the vice to dry 






Nice to know it will go in to the new year with no bare metal 😄 I might even get some colour on tomorrow


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## tom73 (31 Dec 2019)




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## Gunk (31 Dec 2019)

Good progress, looks really good.


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## JhnBssll (1 Jan 2020)

Another few hours spent on the Brompton this morning. I flatted back the primer and decided to whack some colour on  I'm starting with the bright blue and will probably do the darkest colour next, finishing with the sand colour.

I was really pleased with how well the colour went on, it covered well with no runs 

I did the stem first and started with a quick coat inside the hinge. The stem will remain this colour so it's important the hinge gets a good coat 

Once that had sat for 15 mins or so I rotated it and sprayed the rest.






Happy with that! I'm interested to know what colour it cures, slightly different I would imagine but it looks good so far!

With that a success I went ahead and sprayed all the other bits which are now hanging in the garage drying...











Next job will be to make some templates for the camo blobs and start cutting out vinyl, might take a while


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## JhnBssll (1 Jan 2020)

As suspected, this is going to take some time... 






Each one needs tracing on to the vinyl and then cutting out with a craft knife. I wonder how many A4 sheets like this I'll end up needing


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## Pale Rider (1 Jan 2020)

Looks a good finish on the paint, particularly from a rattle can.

We used to look down on those when I was in the motor trade, but I suppose if you have the skill, good results can be achieved.


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## 12boy (1 Jan 2020)

Are you painting the seat post? And, a total of 4 coats of paint plus clear coat at the end? And you will leave the vinyl on each color until done?


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## JhnBssll (1 Jan 2020)

12boy said:


> Are you painting the seat post? And, a total of 4 coats of paint plus clear coat at the end? And you will leave the vinyl on each color until done?



I'm not painting the seatpost, I have a new titanium one to fit. I'm using the old post to hold the frame while I paint it.

It will be a total of 2 coats of primer, 4 coats of paint and probably 2 or 3 coats of satin laquer at the end. Lots of paint  The vinyl stays on until all the colour coats are applied then will get peeled off before laquering


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## 12boy (1 Jan 2020)

I love it that there are those that persevere to be precise, thorough and painstaking in how they do things. I ain't them and I really enjoy seeing your vision realized.


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## EltonFrog (1 Jan 2020)

I’m extremely curious about this paint job, your work on other projects has been excellent but I’m not sure I like the idea of the camouflage effect. I hope I am wrong.


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## ColinJ (1 Jan 2020)

CarlP said:


> I’m extremely curious about this paint job, your work on other projects has been excellent but I’m not sure I like the idea of the camouflage effect. I hope I am wrong.


Me too... I'd be happy to be wrong though!


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## 12boy (1 Jan 2020)

I live in a part of the world where camo is everywhere including pink and gray camo for ladies' concealed carry automatics and their lingerie. I don't groove on it so much and I like things simple to the point of removing decals if they aren't clearcoated. But, if the OP likes it more power to him. I'm sure it will be done well.


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## JhnBssll (1 Jan 2020)

I'm doing it more for the challenge than the finished effect to be honest. I've done solid colour, I've done masked off lugs, so now I'm trying a pattern 

Not that I don't think it will look pretty cool if I can get it right, but we shall see 

I've just spent far more time than I'd like to admit carefully cutting out the Brompton text from a pair of new decals I bought... I was then able to carefully re-use the wax paper backing to keep the spacing correct...







With the individual letters now on the backing paper I could fairly easily transfer them on to the frame to use as a mask...











Once the rest of the colours are all on I'll peel it off along with the camo masks to reveal the brompton logo in blue - unless I mess it up before then  I'm going to start cutting out camo blobs now


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## Randomnerd (1 Jan 2020)

It’s going to look fantastic. Well done on the project so far.


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## tom73 (1 Jan 2020)

Nice one


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## JhnBssll (1 Jan 2020)

Cutting the blobs out with a craft knife isn't quite as big a pain as I thought it would be but still takes some time 






Anyway, she didnt stay blue for long 
















I forgot to put the sheet back over the vice, which is now a lovely shade of brown  Fortunately I haven't forgotten to move the other bikes out of the way yet, that would be an upsetting error 

That's all for today, I'll hopefully get a chance to cut some more blobs out and put the next colour coat on tomorrow evening after work  I'll be masking more blobs off for the next few coats as I want more of the brown and yellow than the blue in the final colourscheme


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## tom73 (1 Jan 2020)

coming on nicely.


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## Gunk (1 Jan 2020)

Wow, I thought I moved on at a pace, you’re rocking on with it today!


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## FrankCrank (2 Jan 2020)

With that camouflage paint, isn't there a danger you might put the bike somewhere and not find it again......


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## JhnBssll (2 Jan 2020)

Another evening, another colour  The rear triangle needed another coat of brown but once that was done I cracked on masking up the main frame with the little blobs I'd painstakingly cut out in advance  I thought I'd done enough to finish the paintjob but alas no, I'll need at least another full A4 sheet, if not two 

Here's the main frame masked up ready for the Sand Yellow coat...






I have no idea if I'm putting the right number on, all I know is I want slightly more yellow and white than I do brown so I'll mask it up slightly more next time and hopefully that will get the balance about right  Here it is again after some Sand Yellow paint...











And here you can see three of the four colours that probably shouldn't have ever been put together, together  (althought the forks are quite far away so you may have to squint)...






I guess I'll crack on with more camo blobs this evening  I'll get the forks masked and painted later hopefully but the rear triangle will have to wait until tomorrow now, I don't like the thought of masking over fresh paint and ruining it


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## 12boy (2 Jan 2020)

I kinda like the textured look with the prior masking all covered in paint. Sort of like a carved leather saddle.


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## Gunk (2 Jan 2020)

I’m strangely starting to quite like it.


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## Pale Rider (2 Jan 2020)

I reckon it will work if done well.

"Done well" can be taken as read with the OP, so it's a thumbs up from me.

Reminds me of the work done by Dave Kindig on his Kindig Customs car show on the telly.

He also takes transfers and graphics to another level.


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## JhnBssll (2 Jan 2020)

Crikey, no pressure then 

So far I've resisted the temptation to peel one of the blobs back and look underneath. The success of the paintjob relies on whether I can continue to resist until the final coat is on


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## Milkfloat (2 Jan 2020)

I have no real imagination so I totally hate the colour right now. It might turn out to be wonderful though.


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## tom73 (2 Jan 2020)

Well that should bring you back to earth


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## JhnBssll (2 Jan 2020)

Back to reality


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## Gunk (2 Jan 2020)

I haven’t got your patience, I would have peeled one off


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## JhnBssll (3 Jan 2020)

I sprayed the rear triangle and forks this afternoon so everything is yellow now that needed to be yellow  I've started masking up the main frame again for the final colour, Oyster White, and once again have run out of blobs  So I'm now tracing a fifth A4 sheet of blobs, and will shortly be cutting around them with a craft knife  I should get the paint on later today 

Until then, here's a sneak peek at the final layer of masking going on...


----------



## tom73 (3 Jan 2020)




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## ColinJ (3 Jan 2020)

Well, it's certainly...






... er, _distinctive_!


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## JhnBssll (3 Jan 2020)

Minor calamity 

The solvent I was using to degrease before paint suddenly started melting the vinyl  No idea why now, as I've used it on every coat, and only in a small area by the bottom bracket. I got the paint on quickly and then waited a short time before removing the now blistering blobs 

Theres a bit of damage but nothing I cant touch up before laquer - otherwise I'm pretty pleased with how it looks 






I'll leave it to harden a bit more before I try and peel.any more off to minimise the damage


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## JhnBssll (3 Jan 2020)

Just realised this was the area I'd used a different sheet of vinyl, although from the same pack... I wonder if it's slightly thinner or something so more sensitive to the solvent. Who knows


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## rogerzilla (3 Jan 2020)

Is this Desert Storm camouflage, ready for the forthcoming Iranian conflict? Packs nicely into the back of a white Mercedes W115 when you need to get around a ruined city faster.


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## JhnBssll (3 Jan 2020)

Words can't describe how satisfying the peeling process is 

I was pleased to find the Brompton logo vinyl came away easily too, although it has left a residue behind. No matter as I'll be lightly wet sanding it and cleaning it up before I laquer it up 


























It's now in the house warming up to try and harden the paint up  Hopefully I'll get the forks and swingarm to the same state tomorrow 

This project is great fun


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## ColinJ (3 Jan 2020)

It is growing on me... I was thinking that there were going to be green blobs everywhere!


----------



## EltonFrog (3 Jan 2020)

That is completely Radio Rental.


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## Gunk (3 Jan 2020)

That looks brilliant


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## Randomnerd (3 Jan 2020)

Excellent


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## 12boy (4 Jan 2020)

You know, I thought the baby poop yellow and the impacted stool brown was disgusting, but I have to say I have changed my mind seeing the end result. That is really nice, or as my kids would say...dope bitchin. I should have known you knew what you were doing.


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## Pale Rider (4 Jan 2020)

Looks good, although there is quite a lot going on.

Have you thought about leaving the forks and rear triangle a plain colour?

That would give it a factory look.


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## rogerzilla (4 Jan 2020)

It's a lot better than I expected from blue-on-brown.


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## JhnBssll (4 Jan 2020)

Heres the frame with the Brooks Cambrium saddle and grip that helped me decide the colours - I think they go pretty well together, pleased with that 







I expect the laquer will alter the look slightly, probably darken it up a shade. I cant see that being a problem though 

@Pale Rider I have considered leaving the forks and triangle solid colour but I'm not sure what colour that might be. I'll continue with the same camo pattern for now, theres always the option to flat them back and paint over the top if it doesnt look right 

I'm quite looking forward to getting it built up now, although there are several challenges still to come once the paint is finished  Mounting the Di2 battery internally for one, plus the dynamo light mounts and wiring... More fun


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## Pale Rider (4 Jan 2020)

My suggestion for a plain colour would be to pick up one of the colours in the transfers, possibly the blue.

Cammoing all of the bike will give it more impact.


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## JhnBssll (4 Jan 2020)

The stem is going to stay blue so there will be a bit of solid colour still


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## Gunk (4 Jan 2020)

Why not wrap the triangle and forks in carbon


----------



## EltonFrog (4 Jan 2020)

Gunk said:


> Why not wrap the triangle and forks in carbon


 Have you been on the laughing gravy?


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## JhnBssll (4 Jan 2020)

12boy said:


> You know, I thought the baby poop yellow and the impacted stool brown was disgusting, but I have to say I have changed my mind seeing the end result. That is really nice, or as my kids would say...dope bitchin. I should have known you knew what you were doing.



I've got to admit, I was getting quite worried by the time I got to the baby poop yellow... 

I've just got the Oyster White on the forks and triangle. I'll let that dry while we pop out for lunch and peel the vinyl off later this afternoon 











All being well that should be the last of the colour coats - just a bit of wet sanding and laquering to do now!


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## 12boy (4 Jan 2020)

Keep them photos rollin, rollin.....


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## JhnBssll (4 Jan 2020)

ok so I've peeled the last of the blobs off all the parts now. They're all indoors close to a radiator to keep them nice and warm before wet sanding.

I couldn't resist taking a quick photo of the parts laid out


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## JhnBssll (4 Jan 2020)

Another coat of blue for the stem - it now has 4 coats in total to the 6 coats on the other parts


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## Gunk (4 Jan 2020)

Did you cover the vice this time?


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## rogerzilla (5 Jan 2020)

It's looking really good. Personally I would try to get it as hot as possible before building it up, to properly outgas and harden the paint. The traditional low-tech way to do this is to put it in a tent made from black bin bags and leave it in the sun all day, but that only works in summer. Can you borrow any IR heat lamps?


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## JhnBssll (5 Jan 2020)

I've been thinking about this too. I'm wondering if I can put it in our 3d printer at work for a few hours, it heats the build envelope up to 90 degrees. Alternatively we have an oven in the workshop but it's a bit dirty... I'm sure theres something I can do though


----------



## tom73 (5 Jan 2020)




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## JhnBssll (8 Jan 2020)

Most of the laquer is on now  Forks, triangle and stem have had 4 coats and I'm happy with the finish so they're pretty much done, just need some time and heat to cure fully. The main frame has now had 3 coats but the last of them bloomed in a few places so I'll keep an eye on that. With any luck the next coat will reactivate the last layer of lacquer enough to fix it, otherwise I'll have to sand it back lightly in a few spots 












I'll try and stick the fourth coat on the main frame later after it's warmed up a bit in the house 

To be honest there are lots of imperfections with the paint when you look up close but it still looks ace from more than about a foot away which is perfectly good enough for me


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## Pale Rider (8 Jan 2020)

If, as seems possible, you put a coat over one that had not fully cured it will now take a long time to cure at room temperature.

We are all impatient to see this project progress, but I would be inclined not to put any more paint or clear on for a week or two.


----------



## JhnBssll (8 Jan 2020)

It's possible, but I've left it at least half an hour between clear coats and it was touch dry 🤷‍♂️ I'll have a look at it later and see how the land lies. When I last popped upstairs much of the cloudiness had dispersed so I think all is well, just needs a bit of time as you say


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## 12boy (8 Jan 2020)

One of the benefits of primer and cameo is the way little imperfections are .....camouflaged!


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## SkipdiverJohn (8 Jan 2020)

This time of year is really not ideal for painting vehicles in an unheated garage environment. Anything that is small enough to take indoors is best taken indoors, so long as you can stand the smell of the solvents!


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## Pale Rider (8 Jan 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> It's possible, but I've left it at least half an hour between clear coats and it was touch dry 🤷‍♂️ I'll have a look at it later and see how the land lies. When I last popped upstairs much of the cloudiness had dispersed so I think all is well, just needs a bit of time as you say



It looks like all should be well.

Does it get a final polish or does one not do that with lacquer?


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## JhnBssll (8 Jan 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> It looks like all should be well.
> 
> Does it get a final polish or does one not do that with lacquer?



It'll probably get a polish at some point but it's not gloss laquer so I'm not aiming for a high shine


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## JhnBssll (8 Jan 2020)

Pleased to report the lacquer is completely clear now  Panic over  It's 13 degrees and 78% humidity in the garage - I've painted in worse but the conditions are not optimal for sure. If I was painting solid colour and high gloss I would have had a heater going for a few hours before I started


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## JhnBssll (10 Jan 2020)

3 hours at 65 degrees C and hopefully no soggy bottom 






I've just taken the bits out, all looking good. I'm hoping to start building bits up later when I get home


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## Gunk (10 Jan 2020)

Proper job 👍


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## JhnBssll (10 Jan 2020)

I've reassembled the frame with no problems 











New black Josef Kuosak headset which was recommended to me as a good value upgrade over the original, a titanium stem quill bolt and titanium and acetal stem clip spring 






Looking good so far


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## tom73 (10 Jan 2020)

sweet


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## 12boy (10 Jan 2020)

A frame saver treatment might be a good idea since you have a wet climate, at least by my standards. Pretty spiffy so far. I think the saddle and grips will really look good on there. Be tres cool to have a bag that goes with it too.


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## Tenkaykev (10 Jan 2020)

How about fitting one of the white suspension blocks that come as standard on the B75? 

Brilliant Bikes put up a YouTube video a few days ago comparing the various blocks.


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## JhnBssll (12 Jan 2020)

More parts built up  The multiple pre-paint builds have certainly helped as it's gone together very well so far 

Itll need to come apart again to go in for the rear hinge replacement and seat post sleeve fitting but not far off a finished bike now! Next job is to measure up for Di2 wire lengths and get them ordered. While I wait for them I'll have to work out how to mount the battery in the main frame tube


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## Gunk (12 Jan 2020)

That’s starting to look like a bike


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## EltonFrog (12 Jan 2020)

The camouflage is a bit rubbish, please tell me I’m not the only that can still see it?


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## ColinJ (12 Jan 2020)

EltonFrog said:


> The camouflage is a bit rubbish, please tell me I’m not the only that can still see it?


Tell us where to look for it and we'll get back to you!


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## tom73 (12 Jan 2020)




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## Drago (16 Jan 2020)

Insane, bizarre, ridiculous.

That why I love it so much!


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## JhnBssll (16 Jan 2020)

I did some work on connecting up the Di2 gubbins today. I started by connecting all the bits together on the bench to check it was all working. It wasn't  I suppose I deserved that after preaching about Di2 reliability in another thread  I connected it to the PC and it reported back an embarrassing error - the Alfine screen unit I'd chosen wasnt compatible with the new battery. I should have checked, but there you go. I'm now on the look out for a new screen, it looks like the old style XTR unit is compatible with my unusual setup. Anyway all the other components reported back a clean bill of health so I went about fitting them 

I fed the cables through the hole I had previously drilled in the frame and connected the battery, via an internal junction box 






I then used my standard method of securing cables inside tubes to hold it all in place - cable ties 






I leave the tails long so they spring against the inside of the tube and hold things in place, preventing rattles  It also has the benefit of being easy to retrieve as and when needed 






Two cables exit the main tube - one goes forward to the bars and will connect to the new screen unit and shifter. The second runs back through the chainstay to the shift motor on the hub...











I've checked and it all still folds  Just need to scour eBay for a new screen now before I can finish the Di2 install off... 

I'm popping in to the lbs tomorrow to get the seatpost sleeve fitted, exciting times


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## Gunk (16 Jan 2020)

Looking really good, did you set a budget for the build?


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## JhnBssll (16 Jan 2020)

Gunk said:


> Looking really good, did you set a budget for the build?



Thanks, I'm really pleased with it.

I didnt set a budget as such, but I have tried to ensure that the spend doesnt outweigh the bikes finished value. I dont particularly want to sell it, but if it doesnt get used it will likely end up going to a new home to make space for the next project


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## Gunk (16 Jan 2020)

I always seem exceed the bikes final value! I’m not very good at controlling the costs and I always make the excuse that I’m going to keep it and then 6 months later I sell at a loss.


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## JhnBssll (16 Jan 2020)

I think had I not been able to weld the main frame the cost of a replacement would have put me over the value of the bike. I happily accept a small loss on projects - it's usually less than I would have otherwise spent at the pub


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## 12boy (17 Jan 2020)

As far as pastimes go this is fairly inexpensive....now if it were boats...you've put some time in this and where else could you get that much diversion for the same price?


----------



## FrankCrank (17 Jan 2020)

You can't put a price on a hobby, so I keep telling myself


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## tom73 (17 Jan 2020)




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## rogerzilla (17 Jan 2020)

This was almost sensible until you started talking about Di2 

Magnificent madness.


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## 12boy (21 Jan 2020)

How's it going. Missed your updates.


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## JhnBssll (30 Jan 2020)

So some minor updates, apologies for the radio silence but I've been out of the country on business so not a lot has happened 

The Brompton went in to my LBS 2 weeks ago to have a seatpost sleeve fitted and the rear hinge replaced. I haven't had a chance to pop in to check progress but I did tell them it was a fill-in job and there was no hurry. I think it's fair to say that they were rather taken by the bike, and I've been told they have a potential buyer for it and it will likely sell for between £1500 and £2k  I've told them if they get offered anywhere near that to accept immediately, at which point I'll buy a new Brompon and start again  Apparently the buyer ships them to Korea where there is quite the market for them, or so I'm told 

The new bars arrived this week, black with slightly lower rise than the standard M-Type bars. They'll suit it really well I think. The shifter is still stuck in China - it was ordered shortly before the Coronavirus outbreak during chinese new year so who know's how fast it will progress now. I'll post updates when its back from the shop and I've fitted the new bars


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## 12boy (31 Jan 2020)

Be good to see photos before you flog that sweet darlin.


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## JhnBssll (31 Jan 2020)

12boy said:


> Be good to see photos before you flog that sweet darlin.



I'm not definitely selling it - I'd rather keep it for a while but if this guy makes me a good offer I will likely take it. Either way I'll finish it off, post pictures and give it a good test ride before it goes anywhere


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## Pale Rider (31 Jan 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> Apparently the buyer ships them to Korea where there is quite the market for them, or so I'm told



My local Brompton dealer has a good customer in Singapore for Brompton bags and accessories.

It's cheaper for the Singapore guy to buy the Brommie bits at a small discount from a UK dealer and have them shipped, rather than buy locally.

Typical of Brompton's approach to controlling their market, my local dealer has been questioned by Brompton as to why he's selling five times as many bags as bikes.


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## Drago (31 Jan 2020)

Christ, just think how much more money they could make if they let their sellers actually get on with the business of selling them.


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## Pale Rider (31 Jan 2020)

Drago said:


> Christ, just think how much more money they could make if they let their sellers actually get on with the business of selling them.



Quite, they are a strange company.

They effectively enforce resale price maintenance, a concept that has been ruled anti-competitive and illegal.

Many people in the bike trade wonder how they get away with it.

There are winners and losers, as always.

The customer pays more for his bike than he would if it was heavily discounted like other brands.

But that also means Bromptons have a much higher resale value than any other bike.

I don't need to take credit for a £1,000 bicycle, but it would make good sense to take a Brompton on Cycle to Work because the tax breaks and the high secondhand value mean I could have the bike for two or three years at very little overall cost.

Some stories of those on high incomes making a small profit on the resale of a Cycle to Work Brompton.


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## DCBassman (31 Jan 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> Quite, they are a strange company.


Not half as weird as R**kenbacker...
Their CEO has been known to personally try and sue anyone, anywhere, who sells a 'Rickenfaker', even if they bought it decades ago, or even second-hand. It got so bad that Basschat banned all sales of basses and parts through Basschat Marketplace, real or copies. Just not worth the hassle.


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## JhnBssll (28 Feb 2020)

Update! It's been a while 

I picked the Brompton up today to fit the new bars and Di2 display. First job was connect the display up and see if it works this time  Great success, the screen sprang to life so I plugged it in to charge and fitted the new bars...







Minor issue - the 31.8mm clamp of the display was never going to fit the 22mm bars  A quick bit of CAD and 20 mins on the 3d printer and I had a custom spacer fitted to take up the slack 






I'd picked up the seatpost sleeve from the lbs so I glued that in and stuck the post in upside down until the glue had cured... this is the first time its looked like a real bike 






I then refitted the brake lever and grip to complete the bars and controls, although I'd like to tidy up the cabling at some point...






Still to do - the seatpost sleeve needs reaming to get the proper fit, I'd like to modify the chain tensioner further to suit standard jockey wheels for ease of future maintenance, and the dynamo lights need fitting. Otherwise it's pretty close


----------



## JhnBssll (13 Mar 2020)

Seatpost sleeve is now reamed out nicely and saddle fitted  It's evengot some cheapo pedals on for the time being courtesy of my lbs 😊






It has stayed with them again, hes going to investigate the rear hub as the freewheel drags enough to cause the chain to sag significantly. I've read some dragis normal on new alfine hubs but neither of us are yet convinced that this one is quite right  Once I get it back I'm looking forward to actually riding it


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## Gunk (13 Mar 2020)

That’s looking really good, that’s what the CHPT3 should have been like!


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## Tenkaykev (13 Mar 2020)

Is that a Brooks Cambium saddle? ( I'm considering a C17 in black to match my Orange and Black Brommie)


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## Pale Rider (13 Mar 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> I've read some dragis normal on new alfine hubs


Mine had a small amount of chain drag which seemed to come and go.

It would also occasionally push the chain forward slowly when freewheeling with the pedals stationary.


----------



## JhnBssll (13 Mar 2020)

Tenkaykev said:


> Is that a Brooks Cambium saddle? ( I'm considering a C17 in black to match my Orange and Black Brommie)



Yes it is, and Cambium grips  I actually chose the paint colours to complement the saddle and grips 



Pale Rider said:


> Mine had a small amount of chain drag which seemed to come and go.
> 
> It would also occasionally push the chain forward slowly when freewheeling with the pedals stationary.



That's interesting to hear, thanks  We'll have a fiddle and see if we can improve it, I think an oil change is worth a try 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Tenkaykev (13 Mar 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> Seatpost sleeve is now reamed out nicely and saddle fitted  It's evengot some cheapo pedals on for the time being courtesy of my lbs 😊
> 
> View attachment 508264
> 
> ...



I was seriously impressed with the amount of kit you have in your garage, then I realised you were in a bike shop.
😁


----------



## Pale Rider (13 Mar 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> Yes it is, and Cambium grips  I actually chose the paint colours to complement the saddle and grips
> 
> 
> 
> That's interesting to hear, thanks  We'll have a fiddle and see if we can improve it, I think an oil change is worth a try 🤷‍♂️



Didn't cause a problem on my bike which had a rigid chain tensioner.

Could be different on a Brompton, assuming you still have a spring loaded tensioner.


----------



## Gunk (13 Mar 2020)

Tenkaykev said:


> I was seriously impressed with the amount of kit you have in your garage, then I realised you were in a bike shop.
> 😁



I thought the same! For a moment I was wondering if he was stocking up on cleaning products ready for self isolation!


----------



## roley poley (13 Mar 2020)

lovely fettle


----------



## 12boy (27 Mar 2020)

Any updates?


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## JhnBssll (2 May 2020)

Guess what I just got back from the lbs 







Just went for a spin round the driveway on it, grinning ear from ear  I'd forgot how cool the silly little thing is 

What shall I do to it next 🤔


----------



## CharlesF (2 May 2020)

Very desirable!


----------



## Gunk (2 May 2020)

> What shall I do to it next 🤔



Just keep it and enjoy it!


----------



## tom73 (2 May 2020)




----------



## 12boy (2 May 2020)

You might sew up some matching togs to ride it in style. While I enjoy my other bikes too, for smiles per mile it's hard to beat.


----------



## LCpl Boiled Egg (2 May 2020)

JhnBssll said:


> Guess what I just got back from the lbs
> 
> View attachment 519347
> 
> ...



Fantastic. So pleased to see the end result


----------



## Nigelnightmare (3 May 2020)

Very nice!


----------



## JhnBssll (10 Jun 2020)

I fitted the front mounting block recently and found a basket on eBay that looked like it might do the job which arrived today. I had been on the look out for one where the mounting area was near the bottom of the basket and this one seemed to fit the bill.






I offered it up this evening and it looked about right, so I drilled a couple of extra mounting holes and off we went... 


























It even still folds with the basket attached, just 






Spurred on by that little victory I have now measured the space left for the the dynamo light and - it doesn't fit 

So I've decided to do away with the cheap bulky plastic light I'd previously bought and have purchased a nice Busch & Muller IQ-XS, the smaller brother of the IQ-X I run with great success on my commuter 








I've also ordered some new brake cables, the ones on it at the moment are really low quality and make the brakes feel awful, I only used them to play with routing and lengths and had always intended to replace them once I'd got it right. I'm only now getting round to it 

I have had lots more interest from the Brompton group I joined a while back now it's getting close to finished, with the current economic climate I will struggle to turn down a reasonable offer but rest assured it's still in the garage getting some attention at the moment


----------



## Gunk (11 Jun 2020)

That basket works a treat John, much better than the one I used from Decathlon, (you should post a link to the basket and bracket as I know from when I did mine there are lots of other Brompton owners who want to fit a basket) I had to modify and strengthen mine to fit the adapter plate. However after a couple of months of hard use and lots of weight it’s held up well, I probably over engineered it! They are really handy, I use mine most days just for running local errands.
















Are you going to fit mudguards? black ones would look good. I also think that that’s a bike you will always regret selling. Just leave folded up out of the way and pop it out for local shopping errands or just when you feel like riding something slightly different.


----------



## JhnBssll (29 Jun 2020)

Gunk said:


> That basket works a treat John, much better than the one I used from Decathlon, (you should post a link to the basket and bracket as I know from when I did mine there are lots of other Brompton owners who want to fit a basket) I had to modify and strengthen mine to fit the adapter plate. However after a couple of months of hard use and lots of weight it’s held up well, I probably over engineered it! They are really handy, I use mine most days just for running local errands.
> 
> View attachment 529080
> 
> ...




I'm really pleased with the basket but can't see anything wrong with your solution either - certainly seems to be standing up to normal use  For future reference mine is a Klickfix Uni Basket, item number 0391KLIK, more details here 

I'm not going to fit mudguards - I thought about it but decided it's not likely to get used in the rain so they're not likely to be needed.

The Busch & Muller IQ-XS front light turned up a while back, I finally had some time to spend on the Brompton again this evening so decided to try and fit it 😊

I started by offering it up, and it was immediately obvious that it wasn't going to fit with the standard bracket. I had rather expected this, so unperturbed I removed the standard bracket and mount by removing the small torx screw on the underside.






I have a little pot full of random brackets that I've collected over the years and quickly found one that looked similar to my needs. A couple of new bends required, and one new hole, but nothing beyond the wit of man 






After about a quarter of an hour of pottering about I had a bracket roughly the right shape with holes in roughly the right places, so I bolted it all together for the first time...

















As you can see, it's pretty tight  But importantly, there is clearance in all directions and the bars turn...














So with that chalked down as a success I wired it up and performed the obligatory 'spin test'...






A quick ride around up and down the driveway gave very pleasing results - the light seems to be solidly mounted, it doesnt bounce or wobble over bumps. Also perhaps more importantly the beam isn't at all obstructed by the basket, and theres only a slight shadow caused by the tyre. I couldn't have hoped for better really 











Since it has an output for a rear dynamo light I'm now on the look out for a decent one but am not entirely sure where to locate it yet. It needs to be somewhere on the rear triangle, the seatpost/saddle is a no-go as I won't be able to get the wire routed there without causing fairly major headaches  Anyway, that's all for now - I've still not advertised it, so it may end up staying. It's really quite a splendid little thing afterall


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## Gunk (30 Jun 2020)

Great work @JhnBssll I really like the dynamo light conversion, I don’t know if I can justify the cost of doing it as I very rarely use the bike at night so the battery lights I have are more than adequate, but it is a very neat solution.


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## AndyRM (30 Jun 2020)

The camo design is beyond cool.


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## Gunk (30 Jun 2020)

AndyRM said:


> The camo design is beyond cool.



I hate to say I’m not a fan of that, probably my age! But I love the bike.


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## AndyRM (30 Jun 2020)

Gunk said:


> I hate to say I’m not a fan of that, probably my age! But I love the bike.



Be boring if we all liked the same things. I'm not a fan of Bromptons, so I reckon there's a good balance going on here.


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## JhnBssll (5 Jul 2020)

The Busch & Muller Mu rear light arrived in the week and I finally unboxed it this evening - it's certainly as small as they advertised it to be  Some Jagwire pro mtb brake cables also arrived yesterday, so this evening I re-cabled the little Brompton and fitted the rear light.

Whilst re-cabling I also swapped out the flexible v-brake noodles for solid ones - the flexible ones introduced far more friction that I had hoped. By swapping back to the standard noodles, fitting the jagwire cables and modifying the routing slightly I've managed to reduce friction significantly and have positive feeling brakes for the first time on this build  The cables originally fitted were only ever meant for testing the routing and as is often the case I didn't get it quite right first time 

For the rear light I've heat shrunk the connectors and run the cables down the seatstay then through the chainstay with the Di2 gear cable. Here it is before I took out the slack and cable tied everything back together...












It then follows the brake cable up to around level with the stem hinge before doubling back and running down the front brake cable where I've soldered the joint and again heat shrunk over the top.






And after the obligatory spin test...
















It's difficult to make out from the pictures, but it's a bright little bugger for its size  I think if I were planning to use it in anger at night I would take a second rear light, but this one is absolutely perfect for the bimbling about its likely to see 






The poor little thing has been moved about a lot in the months I've owned it, but it finally seems to have found itself a spot in the garage to call it's own  The old speedo next to it will hopefully find a new home soon too 






So, aside from a few very minor tweaks, I think it's now as I set out to achieve  I think I've finished a project  To say I'm pleased with the result would be a massive understatement, it's a fabulous little bike which I hope to put a few miles on now it's finished 😊 I've decided not to put it up for sale, at least not in the short term. I think you're right @Gunk - I would regret selling it if I move it on now 

There likely won't be any bicycle related projects for a while as I started digging big holes in the garden this afternoon for an extension, new driveway and some drainage work  That little lot is likely to take a big chunk of my time in the coming weeks and months


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## 12boy (5 Jul 2020)

As you ride your little beast I bet you will find it will become harder and harder to get rid of. Not how I have mine but your workmanship is very impressive. Well done!


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## CharlesF (5 Jul 2020)

It has been brilliant to watch a master craftsman at work, thanks for the detailed explanation and pictures.


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## TerryDi2 (4 May 2021)

This is pretty cool! 
(just spotted the 'for sale' thread)


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## JhnBssll (10 Jun 2021)

So my little Brompton is on its way to pastures new  I was very sorry to see it go but am happy that it will have an exciting new life when it reaches its destination as it's now on its way to Hong Kong 😊 I'm hoping to get some photos of it on the city streets, that would be very cool 😊

I still have the basket I modified in the garage if anyone wants it.


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## Gunk (10 Jun 2021)

JhnBssll said:


> So my little Brompton is on its way to pastures new  I was very sorry to see it go but am happy that it will have an exciting new life when it reaches its destination as it's now on its way to Hong Kong 😊 I'm hoping to get some photos of it on the city streets, that would be very cool 😊
> 
> I still have the basket I modified in the garage if anyone wants it.



Probably like you John, it was nice little relationship whilst it lasted, but I’ve scratched that itch, I don’t think I need another in my life.


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