# How to use a D-lock...



## GrasB (9 Jun 2011)

How many times have you seen someone with a D-lock around the top tube & a solid object? Well wandering back from lunch & I spot this



a perfect example of how to use a D-lock to secure your bike.


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## wheres_my_beard (9 Jun 2011)

Was there an unsecured quick release from wheel and seat though? This can be annoying > like so - not mine thankfully


If you are struggling to afford a suitable lock for your bike, this may help


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## HLaB (9 Jun 2011)

You are Hal Ruzal and I claim my fiver ;-)


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## phantasmagoriana (9 Jun 2011)

I see so many bikes locked up by the top tube only, regardless of lock type - lots of people seem to use long (often very flimsy!) cable locks around the top tube and don't bother locking the wheels etc. Aside from risk of people stealing bits, it makes the bikes likely to fall over, particularly in well-used bike racks! 

(Have to say, I don't lock mine up as in that picture though - I go for the front triangle + front wheel, as only my front wheel is QR. If I use a second lock, I do the rear.)


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## Melonfish (9 Jun 2011)

GrasB said:


> How many times have you seen someone with a D-lock around the top tube & a solid object? Well wandering back from lunch & I spot this
> [attachment=3900:dlock_proper.jpg]
> a perfect example of how to use a D-lock to secure your bike.



thats actually how i usually do mine, through the wheel and frame.


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## GrasB (9 Jun 2011)

wheres_my_beard said:


> Was there an unsecured quick release from wheel and seat though?


Some kind of alternative skewer 'locks' for the wheels (something similar to [urlhttp://www.pinheadcomponents.com/]pinheads[/url]) & I challenge anyone to have a *secure RIBE* driver to hand for the seat post


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## HLaB (9 Jun 2011)

I tend to use a Dlock through the seatstays and wheel (like pictured) and a krpto flex cable to secure the front wheel (not quick release) but it sometimes takes longer than the visit to the shop, etc. I'm a bit stupidly paranoid and still go through this procedure but I can understand somebody just locking around the top tube for a quick visit to the shops in a quiet town.


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## summerdays (9 Jun 2011)

[smug mod]That is exactly how I lock up my bike .... and I have wheels which need that 5 sided allen key to release.[/smug mode]


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## Holdsworth (9 Jun 2011)

I've tried locking my bike up like that but my Evo Mini lock won't reach around the seat tube and the rim, it's just too small. I'll experiment more and see if I can include the rear wheel any other way, not prepared to buy a new, bigger lock though as cash is tight once more. I do lock my front though with my old cable, probably insecure but my work bike sheds don't seem that dodgy and are only a stone's throw from the security both and several CCTV cameras.


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## wheres_my_beard (9 Jun 2011)

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbklkFuFk-4
This has probably been posted more times here than I have had bikes stolen... 

The picture quality is more shocking than the content TBH.


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## Night Train (9 Jun 2011)

Also be aware of the type of lock on yout U lock.
[media]
]View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-LWGJzglho&NR=1[/media]


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## subaqua (10 Jun 2011)

Melonfish said:


> thats actually how i usually do mine, through the wheel and frame.




snap, and will take a picture later. i then add in a cable lock round the front wheel and frame and through the seat metalwork.


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## MacB (10 Jun 2011)

I've gone a step further and now use two d-locks, one as above through frame and rear wheel to bike stand and the other round DT, through front wheel and to bike stand. If it's not possible to lock the front to the street furniture as well then I still lock the front wheel to the frame.


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## Jezston (10 Jun 2011)

Sheldon style through the back wheel with a mini-u, and cheap but not clipper-friendly cable through the front wheel and frame.


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## calibanzwei (10 Jun 2011)

HLaB said:


> I tend to use a Dlock through the seatstays and wheel (like pictured) and a krpto flex cable to secure the front wheel



+1


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## Mad at urage (10 Jun 2011)

Unclip front brake, release front QR, place front wheel on left chainstay. Long D-lock with decent locking around/through street furniture/Sheffield rack, front wheel, frame and rear wheel. All locked together, simples.


Of course I don't have one of these modern, delicate bicycles that can't lean the forks on the ground!


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## Manonabike (10 Jun 2011)

Holdsworth said:


> *I've tried locking my bike up like that but my Evo Mini lock won't reach around the seat tube and the rim, it's just too small*. I'll experiment more and see if I can include the rear wheel any other way, not prepared to buy a new, bigger lock though as cash is tight once more. I do lock my front though with my old cable, probably insecure but my work bike sheds don't seem that dodgy and are only a stone's throw from the security both and several CCTV cameras.




Obviously this will depend on the thickness of all parts concerned but this is how I do it with a Evolution Mini 










And this is how I use my other lock







If I'm leaving my bike for a while I use the Evolution to lock the front wheel and yellow to lock the bike as seen in above pic.


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## MontyVeda (10 Jun 2011)

wheres_my_beard said:


> Was there an unsecured quick release from wheel and seat though? This can be annoying > like so - not mine thankfully
> 
> 
> ...



yeah i popped into a pub for five minutes and came out to find my bike lacking a front wheel... man i was furious, so much so I don't have quick release any more.


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## asterix (10 Jun 2011)

Still don't understand why nobody else puts the D-lock through front wheel and frame triangle (without removing front wheel!). Why carry an extra cable lock to attach your front wheel? I use a standard Granit x plus and it is perfectly easy to do this and fill the shackle.


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## Wobblers (10 Jun 2011)

Well, you hold the lock by the end of the shackle. That gives you decent grip and good weight. Then give the lock a good swing and apply to the skull of your opponent...


... oh, wait, I seem to have misunderstood the question! 

As you were, nothing to see here... 


On a more serious note, I lock my bike the same way as Manonabike: through the rear triangle with the seat stays enclosed by the lock:



Manonabike said:


>



That way you can ensure that the lock is filled so ought to be much harder to break.


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## MacB (10 Jun 2011)

asterix said:


> Still don't understand why nobody else puts the D-lock through front wheel and frame triangle (without removing front wheel!). Why carry an extra cable lock to attach your front wheel? I use a standard Granit x plus and it is perfectly easy to do this and fill the shackle.



I do, I use two d-locks and do front and rear, but it's only the shopping bike and so is permanently shod with panniers etc and only does short runs. My nicer bikes I just don't lock up in public but, if needed, would at least do one d-lock and probably remove front wheel to attach as well.


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## funnymummy (10 Jun 2011)

My Mummy bike has a frame lock on the back wheel. Once I went to the shop without #2 & his trailer - which of course had the D & cables locks in it, but I was only popping into the Co-op so no biggy, just put the bike in the rack & flicked the frame lock on.
As i walked out the shop a few mins later, some daft chav was about to mount my bike & ride off.. i'm 6'2", Mummy bike has a 22" step through frame, the chav was about 5' nothing & scrawny. I shouted "Oi Muppet" He looked over his shoulder, stood on the pedals & tried to ride off, he moved about 1/2 an inch - all that the frame lock would allow the wheel to turn, the bike tipped over, the chav went splat, much to the amusement of his friends a few feet away. 
He got up dazed, started swaering at me, then realised I used to be his teacher, muttered somthing about Poo & ran off!
Cost me a couple of new spokes, but the entertainment value was priceless - I also rembered to keep the D lock in my panniers after that!


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## HLaB (10 Jun 2011)

asterix said:


> Still don't understand why nobody else puts the D-lock through front wheel and frame triangle (without removing front wheel!). Why carry an extra cable lock to attach your front wheel? I use a standard Granit x plus and it is perfectly easy to do this and fill the shackle.



The theory is the back wheel costs more to replace so a lot of folk (myself included) like to use their better lock there. One lock wont reach the front and back wheel.


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## Arfcollins (10 Jun 2011)

There's nothing wrong with securing the top tube to an immovable object. I haven't lost a bike yet. I carry a small oxy-acetylene kit in the left-hand pannier and weld my bike to a lamp post. The petrol driven disc-cutter in the right-hand pannier that I use to release the bike adds considerable weight on my commute but I still prefer the panniers to carrying the equipment in a ruck sack. My question is this: should I continue to wear the leather welding apron between home and work or, statisically, is it just as safe to let the sparks hit my middle-aged lycra-clad midriff?


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## gambatte (11 Jun 2011)

Q: If reach of a small D lock is an issue, why not secure solely to the rear wheel, at a point between the seat and chainstays? Surely the geometry secures the frame too?


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## Wankelschrauben (11 Jun 2011)

Those videos have been quite shocking.

I'm on the lookout for one of the cool looking yellow New York locks to replace or use with my Doberman cable lock.


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## asterix (11 Jun 2011)

HLaB said:


> The theory is the back wheel costs more to replace so a lot of folk (myself included) like to use their better lock there. One lock wont reach the front and back wheel.



Ah yes, my back wheels wouldn't be that tempting.


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## Black Sheep (11 Jun 2011)

I see so many bikes secured with a D lock round the fork, through the front wheel

I see it as my civic duty to unclip the wheel, flip the rest of the bike through 180 and put the wheel back in


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## MontyVeda (11 Jun 2011)

funnymummy said:


> My Mummy bike has a frame lock on the back wheel. Once I went to the shop without #2 & his trailer - which of course had the D & cables locks in it, but I was only popping into the Co-op so no biggy, just put the bike in the rack & flicked the frame lock on.
> As i walked out the shop a few mins later, some daft chav was about to mount my bike & ride off.. i'm 6'2", Mummy bike has a 22" step through frame, the chav was about 5' nothing & scrawny. I shouted "Oi Muppet" He looked over his shoulder, stood on the pedals & tried to ride off, he moved about 1/2 an inch - all that the frame lock would allow the wheel to turn, *the bike tipped over, the chav went splat,* much to the amusement of his friends a few feet away.
> He got up dazed, started swaering at me, then realised I used to be his teacher, muttered somthing about Poo & ran off!
> Cost me a couple of new spokes, but the entertainment value was priceless - I also rembered to keep the D lock in my panniers after that!



classic!


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## MontyVeda (11 Jun 2011)

Arfcollins said:


> There's nothing wrong with securing the top tube to an immovable object. I haven't lost a bike yet. I carry a small oxy-acetylene kit in the left-hand pannier and weld my bike to a lamp post. The petrol driven disc-cutter in the right-hand pannier that I use to release the bike adds considerable weight on my commute but I still prefer the panniers to carrying the equipment in a ruck sack. My question is this: should I continue to wear the leather welding apron between home and work or, statisically, is it just as safe to let the sparks hit my middle-aged lycra-clad midriff?



A leather apron in the rain? Might compromise it's life... best keep it in a pannier too


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## Wankelschrauben (12 Jun 2011)

Is this the right lock that is recommended?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Kryptonite-Ne...sure_Cycling_BikeLocks_SR&hash=item1c1c5697a2

Or is it worth going for the Fahgetahboudit version?


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## fossyant (12 Jun 2011)

Go for the Fagh - really. If leaving your bike, then it's the Fagh or ABUS top model !

Parkers used to do it for £55. That's where I got mine.

I lock though frame and wheel near rear brake like posted above - totally filled the space. Bit of an ass when the sheffield stands are too close to a wall.


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## Manonabike (27 Feb 2012)

Arfcollins said:


> *There's nothing wrong with securing the top tube to an immovable object.* I haven't lost a bike yet. I carry a small oxy-acetylene kit in the left-hand pannier and weld my bike to a lamp post. The petrol driven disc-cutter in the right-hand pannier that I use to release the bike adds considerable weight on my commute but I still prefer the panniers to carrying the equipment in a ruck sack. My question is this: should I continue to wear the leather welding apron between home and work or, statisically, is it just as safe to let the sparks hit my middle-aged lycra-clad midriff?


 
The only problem with that is that you might leave room for a mini jack..... like this







That is why I use a mini D-lock and fit it like I've shown in the previous post.


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## Ethan (27 Feb 2012)

HLaB said:


> You are Hal Ruzal and I claim my fiver ;-)


 
Jesus, locking my seat has never occurred to me! Which is stupid considering I have a £60 odd just in the saddle and seat post!
I make sure to lock my frame twice and both wheels with good D locks (Thank you university for practically giving away Kryptonite d locks in the anti-bike theft promotion thingy). Always get things as tight as possible!
Going to have to invest in one of them cable things to get the saddle nice and secure!

Thanks for bringing that to my attention!


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## Maz (27 Feb 2012)

GrasB said:


> How many times have you seen someone with a D-lock around the top tube & a solid object? Well wandering back from lunch & I spot this
> View attachment 2938
> 
> a perfect example of how to use a D-lock to secure your bike.


It looks Ok to me...


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## Manonabike (27 Feb 2012)

Ethan said:


> *Jesus, locking my seat has never occurred to me! Which is stupid considering I have a £60 odd just in the saddle and seat post!*
> I make sure to lock my frame twice and both wheels with good D locks (Thank you university for practically giving away Kryptonite d locks in the anti-bike theft promotion thingy). Always get things as tight as possible!
> Going to have to invest in one of them cable things to get the saddle nice and secure!
> 
> Thanks for bringing that to my attention!


 

Here is something you can make yourself easily..... all you need is an old chain, an old tube and a chain remover tool. Measure the chain so it fits between the seat rail and the seat stay, cut the length by removing the pin. Cut some old tube to length and then fit the chain inside, around the stay and saddle rail. Finally join the chain with a pin. Job done.... like this:








I think it was Hal Ruzal who invented this little trick, so I give credit where credit is due


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## Maz (27 Feb 2012)

Manonabike said:


> Here is something you can make yourself easily..... all you need is an old chain, an old tube and a chain remover tool. Measure the chain so it fits between the seat rail and the seat stay, cut the length by removing the pin. Cut some old tube to length and then fit the chain inside, around the stay and saddle rail. Finally join the chain with a pin. Job done.... like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


But wouldn't a would-be thief just need a chain remover tool to remove a pin and unlock the whole thing?


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## Manonabike (27 Feb 2012)

Maz said:


> But wouldn't a would-be thief just need a chain remover tool to remove a pin and unlock the whole thing?


 
Of course, but he would have to be carrying an alan key and a chain remover tool!!! You are missing the point though. Nothing would protect your bike 100% against a determine thief, everything we do to protect our bikes will only buy you a little time and hopefully the thieves will rather pick an easier target.

I used this chain thing for a while and a number of cyclists commented positively on it, basically it saves you having to carry a long cable that can be easily cut anyway. These days I use a more drastic method which I would not recommend to anybody that is likely to be adjusting their saddles.... in my case my saddle will not be moving so it works for me


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## jefmcg (27 Feb 2012)

It's not just what lock, and where you place the lock, it's also about how well secured the "accessories" are, and where you lock it.





I pass this every day on my commute. I am pretty sure last week it still had a hub.


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## Manonabike (29 Feb 2012)

jefmcg said:


> It's not just what lock, and where you place the lock, it's also about how well secured the "accessories" are, and where you lock it.
> 
> View attachment 7342
> 
> I pass this every day on my commute. I am pretty sure last week it still had a hub.


 

Very true. My bikes are not expensive at all but I built them myself so they have huge sentimental value, hence I do anything in my power to keep them......

In addition to the locks I use (both shown in previous posts) I also use a set of pitlock to secure the wheels...






I secure the saddle and seatpost with a ball bearing glued to the bolt's head ( not recommended for those people that like to tinker with saddle position)

Basically, if the bike gets stolen then I'd know that it wasn't my fault.


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## Bodhbh (29 Feb 2012)

Ethan said:


> Jesus, locking my seat has never occurred to me! Which is stupid considering I have a £60 odd just in the saddle and seat post!...Thanks for bringing that to my attention!


 
Some saddles, particular something like a tastefully worn-in Brook can be noticed from a mile off and are pretty nickable. My hack bike only has a 15quid saddle, so I jsut use a hoseclip around the QR, but anything decent I'd run a cable thru the rails. In hotspots you wouldn't want to leave a saddle like that Brooks on at all (short of a D-locking that too, lol).


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## Moodyman (29 Feb 2012)

I thought this thread was going to show me how to use a D Lock on a pesky motorist.


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