# Chat Zone for The Big Big Trip Journal!



## cosmicbike (9 Oct 2019)

Cracking write up sir, keep at it, I'm enjoying your tour.


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## tom73 (10 Oct 2019)

book marked look forward to reading more


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## IaninSheffield (10 Oct 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I’ve had confirmation that I cannot complete the Outer Banks route and I need to find a link to the mainland route south. That’ll take me by an alligator park but also through some pretty barren areas with a distinct lack of campsites, shops and other services.


That's a real shame. Looks like it would have been quite a ride, but doubtless you'll have other fascinating experiences when you resolve your alternative route.
Looking forward to reading your continuing posts.


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## mjr (10 Oct 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> [...] I toddled into the Tourist info offfice to be told tht there was a problem with one of thee ferries on the Outer Banks - the route I was planning to take. It seems that Hurricane Dorian has left his mark ina big way and the ferry from Cedar Island to Ocracoke is only carrrying locals with special permission. Since this is at the southern end, it looks like my journey down the O.B. is not going to go ahead.
> They were kind enough to give me a map of North Carolina and I had a look for a while at alternative routes down. In any case, I decided to head on to my destination for today and headed off again through the swamp/park.


Using online maps over here, it looks like the obvious choices are to carry on to Ocracoke then take the Swanriver ferry if that's running (33 miles longer) or cross back to Manns Harbor (4 miles shorter but yes, across alligator reserve) and follow NC bike routes 2 (Mountains to Sea) and 3 (Ports of Call) to regain your route at Jacksonville NC. Which will you choose...? Good luck!

ETA: https://www.ncdot.gov/news/press-re...-10-01-ocracoke-emergency-routes-october.aspx says "The Hatteras-Ocracoke Silver Lake route is open only to high ground-clearance vehicles" too, so it seems access to Ocracoke from the north is also currently blocked for cycles. Good luck!


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## cisamcgu (10 Oct 2019)

Superb - I am very jealous !


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Oct 2019)

Hi folks, thanks for the comments. I imagine there will be many times in the coming months I'll be glad of a supportive word or two.

I'm trying to do all this on a phone and sometimes a tablet and, as I'm finding out internet/data/WiFi is not always easy to get in rural USA. All going well I'll try to update as often as possible while I'm on the road.

I've requested this thread from the mod team (and very grateful to them too) to try to keep the flow of the main travelogue complete & flowing. Trying to post updates and track comments all in the one thread on a mobile phone is not easy. 

I appreciate your understanding & co-operation and I hope you enjoy the read.


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## cosmicbike (13 Oct 2019)

Thanks for the update today, a great read over breakfast for me. I don't know how you're dealing with those long straight roads, I think I'd go mad! A question, what made you decide to do it?


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Oct 2019)

cosmicbike said:


> Thanks for the update today, a great read over breakfast for me. I don't know how you're dealing with those long straight roads, I think I'd go mad! A question, what made you decide to do it?


Yes the roads are making me a little crazy! The thing is I know I'll be hitting long straight roads in places like Texas & Mexico, but it's like I'm expecting them. I wasn't expecting them in North Carolina! 😀

As to why?
Ha! Good question!
I'm not sure if you mean generally, or specifically so I'll try to answer both.

Generally, it started after a trip from NL to Spain and back. One evening, bored, I looked at the distance I had cycled (about 6500 km I think) and started looking at where else I could reach cycling that distance. I could go into Russia. I could go across Canada or the States. Once I realised I could do it, the ideas started to come. I had done that distance before, I could do it again, right?

Initially I wanted to try around the world going east, but that threw up logistical issues - one big factor was that a visa stamp from certain countries would deny access to the U.S. and Canada - two places I definitely wanted to bike through. Then there is the ongoing issues in the Middle East (I also wanted to go through Iran). So I started looking westwards and the idea of an American Continent(s) ride. 

Every bit of reading was making the idea more solid, more real, more attainable.The problem with an idea like mine is that it becomes a worm, drilling into my head & refusing to leave.
They say at the end of your days you regret the things you don't do. This felt like one of those things I'd be regretting. So I planned to do it.

I have not considered the idea of doing similar in stages. Say one trip to the US. Another to Mexico. Another to Central America etc. This has always been the Big, Big Trip. Not the lots of little trips.

A couple of years ago I was about 3 months from doing similar, but involving a trans-Canada aspect as well as either the US west coast or the GDMBR. That fell through and to put it simply I was devastated. 

A year later, I was back in the saddle making a trimmed down plan. Smaller budget meant less time in the US & no Canada at all, but the full Central & Southern America legs. 

That's the inspirational side, if you like. The more practical side is that I'm single and have no kids. I used to be self employed and frankly, focused almost exclusively on work to the detriment of everything else. There's a balance in my life that needs to be reset and I hope that this adventure will help. 
There's also the physical aspect. I'm not getting younger and I've neglected my body for years. The longer I leave this, for example as a nice retirement present for myself, the less chance there is of me succeeding - something is bound to go! ;-) Furthermore, I've no intention of growing old alone and finding female touring partners at any age is a challenge! :-)


If you're asking why I decided to do this when I could barely walk a few weeks before I left, the answer is simple. 
I had very few other options. I had just sold my house, all my belongings were either sold or donated, I had finished with work. If I had stayed I would have had to find a place to live, either try to get my old job back (while on sick leave) or get a new one. And I knew that this was my last chance to do this. 
I figured it was better to try & fail than not try at all.


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## uphillstruggler (15 Oct 2019)

I have to say, fantastic write up so far and congratulations on making the decision to up sticks and get off

Just the initial trip on the cargo ship is a wonderful way to go 

I’m looking forward to hearing more about this

Bon voyage and stay safe


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## Blue Hills (15 Oct 2019)

uphillstruggler said:


> Just the initial trip on the cargo ship is a wonderful way to go



Agree - have been interested in this ever since reading about it as an impressionable youth in an old 70s somewhat hippyish Time Out Book of London.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2019)

uphillstruggler said:


> Just the initial trip on the cargo ship is a wonderful way to go


Many thanks for the kind words.

The ship indeed, is a wonderful way to travel. Especially if you are interested in ships and how they operate. 

It's not luxurious as on a cruise, but offers so much more. 

There is also an amount of luck involved. Fellow passengers, and crew are all luck of the draw. For example, the Captain changed 3 days after I got on and the whole vibe from the officers changed - for the better. 

I travelled with 2 ladies, one doing a round trip from the U.S., the other German lady boarded in Bremerhaven and sailed to New York. She was more like a big kid than I was and it was interesting (and a bit heartwarming) to see how all the officers & crew responded to her. The Captain even let her change the speed of the ship! 

It costs anything from €80-120 per day, the lower end if you are sharing. Certainly not cheap, but then again, it's like a (basic) floating hotel that moves you from place to place.

Mine was a French company and that would be something to consider. Not all countries have the same standards.


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## Blue Hills (16 Oct 2019)

Thanks for the info.

Yes i gathered soon after my youthful dream that it wasn't a cheap option.


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## uphillstruggler (16 Oct 2019)

80 - 120 a day doesn’t seem too bad, especially as it would probably be a tick on the to do list 

Was the grub included and was it reasonably decent? If so, it makes it even more attractive


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2019)

uphillstruggler said:


> 80 - 120 a day doesn’t seem too bad, especially as it would probably be a tick on the to do list
> 
> Was the grub included and was it reasonably decent? If so, it makes it even more attractive


Grub's included. Food was pretty good, although the chef changed same time as the Captain & I was told food improved then. What there wasn't was choice. There was a set menu same for officers as passengers.
Wine was included with lunch & dinner, but it's really not the environment for overindulging.😀

Again, I'm fairly sure the fact that my ship was French played a factor in that.

It is, however, vital to have a flexible approach to dates when travelling.


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## uphillstruggler (16 Oct 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Grub's included. Food was pretty good, although the chef changed same time as the Captain & I was told food improved then. What there wasn't was choice. There was a set menu same for officers as passengers.
> Wine was included with lunch & dinner, but it's really not the environment for overindulging.😀
> 
> Again, I'm fairly sure the fact that my ship was French played a factor in that.
> ...



that sounds like a decent deal to me.

I would imagine that one a tour like this, the flexibility regarding the times would be par for the course and part of the fun.

best of luck with the rest of the trip, i'm looking forward to reading about it


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## Vantage (16 Oct 2019)

Absolutely brilliant write up Hobbes. Very jealous.
Looking forward to more entries and wishing you the best of luck!


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## cosmicbike (16 Oct 2019)

Enjoyed your last few updates. I can relate about the spiders, but the yellow eyes following you around amused me greatly Nice to read you found some bends and hills, though that Highway 17 doesn't sound like my idea of fun.


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Oct 2019)

Vantage said:


> Absolutely brilliant write up Hobbes. Very jealous.
> Looking forward to more entries and wishing you the best of luck!


Thank you sir. You've got your shiny new bike, though 😀


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Oct 2019)

cosmicbike said:


> Enjoyed your last few updates. I can relate about the spiders, but the yellow eyes following you around amused me greatly Nice to read you found some bends and hills, though that Highway 17 doesn't sound like my idea of fun.


17 got worse!!
I've redone my route to keep me off it as much as possible.


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## netman (21 Oct 2019)

Great reading your travelogue - I love root beer! It's an acquired taste though!


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## Milkfloat (22 Oct 2019)

No updates for a few days, I hope it is because he is enjoying himself and not because Highway 17 got him.


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## CharlesF (22 Oct 2019)

Hobbs, these continue to be a brilliant read, like the old fashioned serials in a magazine, I can’t wait for the next. Although each one makes me more and more envious! It would be huge boots for me to follow/fill.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

netman said:


> Great reading your travelogue - I love root beer! It's an acquired taste though!


Guinness is an acquired taste - Root beer is just vile!


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

Milkfloat said:


> No updates for a few days, I hope it is because he is enjoying himself and not because Highway 17 got him.


In a way my silence was due to 17 - avoiding it by going out into the woods. No WiFi in the woods - but no cars eitherv


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Hobbs, these continue to be a brilliant read, like the old fashioned serials in a magazine, I can’t wait for the next. Although each one makes me more and more envious! It would be huge boots for me to follow/fill.


Thank you! That's very nice to read.

I'm no mad adventurer, my bike is as basic as they come, my fitness is in my boots, I can't navigate for peanuts. If I can do this, anyone can. It starts with throwing your leg over your bike and cycling somewhere, anywhere,with the intention of having an adventure.
Keep reading, less of the envy, more of the inspiration, please.


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## CharlesF (22 Oct 2019)

Yes, I know! I seriously need to get a grip of myself and do something, maybe not so grand to start with, but something is better than nothing . You’ll be the first hear how you inspired me.


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## bruce1530 (22 Oct 2019)

Really enjoying these reports. Trying to visualise the route on a map - has anyone marked one up?


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

bruce1530 said:


> Really enjoying these reports. Trying to visualise the route on a map - has anyone marked one up?


Hi!
HobbesOnTour is on Strava. You can see the daily routes there (including the wrong turns!) and some other photos. I don't think you need a paying subscription to follow.
Thanks for the interest!


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## cosmicbike (24 Oct 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Hi!
> HobbesOnTour is on Strava. You can see the daily routes there (including the wrong turns!) and some other photos. I don't think you need a paying subscription to follow.
> Thanks for the interest!


Excellent, following you now
Do keep the updates coming, really enjoying reading of your adventure.


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## lazybloke (24 Oct 2019)

Really enjoying the unfolding adventure BUT wtf? You don't like cats?!


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2019)

cosmicbike said:


> Excellent, following you now
> Do keep the updates coming, really enjoying reading of your adventure.


Thank you. The encouragement is appreciated and I'm sure will be needed in the future.

I try to take several "road shots" every day which will go on Strava. I'm limited to 10 pics per post in the normal thread. 

Just FYI, I'm in rural South Carolina now, heading for the mountains. I'll be needing wifi to post more updates. So please, be patient! 😀


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## tom73 (24 Oct 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Guinness is an acquired taste - Root beer is just vile!


Good job your travel pal is not snoopy then


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## IaninSheffield (29 Oct 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Really enjoyed that. Great write up.
> I found a pee bottle makes cold (or wet) weather camping much easier. Mine's a repurposed juice bottle. No need to leave the tent.





IaninSheffield said:


> Thanks.
> I have considered that, but the thought of an 'accident' in a tent with a bathtub floor, and in the proximity of a down sleeping bag, is too much stress to bear I fear.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Went back to finish the packing a little later than planned and got a bit of a shock when I opened it up. There was a bit of a wet patch on the floor! My pee bottle hadn't been fastened properly after my 4am pee! Not quite disaster, but certainly not helpful.


I must refer my right honourable friend back to the suggestion he gave me recently


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2019)

IaninSheffield said:


> I must refer my right honourable friend back to the suggestion he gave me recently



In fairness, the issue was due to poor execution, rather than a bad idea - I didn't fasten the top properly!

Now where's the cat lover??


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## CharlesF (1 Nov 2019)

A couple of testing days, hopefully the time inside allowed you to recoup and dry out. This remains the best read on CC, even better than the retirees!


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2019)

CharlesF said:


> A couple of testing days, hopefully the time inside allowed you to recoup and dry out. This remains the best read on CC, even better than the retirees!


Thanks Charles! 😊
The 3 miler was certainly testing! 
A night of pampering myself was just the ticket! Had a fantastic day today! It would have been miserable (and dangerous) in the weather.


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## cosmicbike (1 Nov 2019)

Just had a catch up, though I am following you more closely on Strava. Looking like quite the adventure now with the weather starting to get 'interesting'..


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2019)

The weather is certainly a bit more challenging. I knew to expect cold, wet and windy in these parts, just not the intensity nor the speed of change. 
But the country??? This is beyond description!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2019)

In one of my posts I mentioned an earworm - "Didn't we Almost have it all". Apparently, that's a Whitney Houston song.
The correct one is 
View: https://youtu.be/Ru2tsT32pHA


It's pretty effective at keeping the bears away! 😀


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## cosmicbike (2 Nov 2019)

I note you've discovered 'Naked & Afraid', they show it on one of the dross channels here in the UK. The scenery for your latest update looks simply fantastic, though they don't show how cold it is..


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## CharlesF (2 Nov 2019)

Wonderful pictures, remind me of seeing the Fall in Toronto, the colours look unreal but are even more vibrant in real life.


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2019)

cosmicbike said:


> I note you've discovered 'Naked & Afraid', they show it on one of the dross channels here in the UK. The scenery for your latest update looks simply fantastic, though they don't show how cold it is..


That's the show!

The scenery is out of this world, coupled with the fact that I have little traffic to contend with. If there was constant traffic I'd be seeing far less, such is the attention required.


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## CharlesF (6 Nov 2019)

These dogs are ruining my story, let alone your ride. Seeing you are in farming country, maybe a cattle prod or riding crop would give you close quarters defence. In fairness, I expect any traffic not in a vehicle is a strange and exciting sight for a bored dog. It sounds as if they are kept purely as guard dogs and that means the owners have no desire to call them off.

Riding up all those hills impresses me! And then you nonchalantly talk about traversing two mountain ranges!!

The pictures are brilliant, especially the rolling roads and farmsteads hidden in the trees.

Keep on peddling Hobbs, and may the dogs all be handbag varieties from now on.

*Edited, to make it clear the prod or crop suggestion is mainly tongue-in-cheek.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2019)

CharlesF said:


> These dogs are ruining my story, let alone your ride. Seeing you are in farming country, maybe a cattle prod or riding crop would give you close quarters defence. In fairness, I expect any traffic not in a vehicle is a strange and exciting sight for a bored dog. It sounds as if they are kept purely as guard dogs and that means the owners have no desire to call them off.
> 
> Riding up all those hills impresses me! And then you nonchalantly talk about traversing two mountain ranges!!
> 
> ...



Well, in a sign of progress there were no dog incidents worth talking about today! 😀

Joking aside, a weapon of any kind would be pretty impractical to use, unless stopped. I'll stop when I have to, but prefer to keep moving.

The frustrating thing is I like dogs! And they usually like me. But they are having an effect mentally. For pretty much any other negative experience I can pull in, relax and "get my head together", but for some reason it's not working with the dogs.

Hopefully a few dog free days will restore the equilibrium.

Thanks for the comments


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## Richard Fairhurst (7 Nov 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Cycle.travel had plotted a long route with lots of rural roads. Komoot suggested a more direct route, at least the first half, was shorter and not so much climbing. I tried to alter the cycle.travel route but it's not the easiest task on a phone, so I loaded the Komoot route and followed that. (Sorry, Richard)



I'll let you off! 

(Still working on the app which will make it easier to create and edit routes on a phone. And OSM needs some shoulder tagging on the main road which would help reassure c.t it's an ok road to take...)

Really enjoying reading the journal.


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Nov 2019)

Richard Fairhurst said:


> I'll let you off!
> 
> (Still working on the app which will make it easier to create and edit routes on a phone. And OSM needs some shoulder tagging on the main road which would help reassure c.t it's an ok road to take...)
> 
> Really enjoying reading the journal.


Thanks, Richard!

I can't imagine the complexity involved in the tagging process. It seems to me that it's the counties that have responsibility for the roads and shoulders. Oftentimes there's a significant variation in both at a county border.

Another factor is speed limits. I can see no rhyme or reason to them. 4 lane highways with a wide grass section between both sets of lanes can have a 45mph limit, a two lane with no shoulder can be 55. 
Throw in different levels of traffic and it gets very confusing!
Also, in this part of the world the roads connected to quarries and/or forests can have a high level of trucks - and some of those drive like lunatics! Of course, the section of forest being harvested changes regularly, too!

So far I haven't found myself on a cycle.travel route and thought I needed to get off it. Only the ACA 😀


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## h00chm0nster (8 Nov 2019)

Wow! Great read! Fantastic to be able to follow you on your adventures. I’m picturing you singing and playing the drums on your bike: makes me laugh! But in a good way: so wonderful you’re riding your dream right now!
Keep it up! Wanna read more!!


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## Always Cross (9 Nov 2019)

Could you try pepper spray for the dogs I think its legal over there. Great trip enjoying reading about it.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Nov 2019)

Always Cross said:


> Could you try pepper spray for the dogs I think its legal over there. Great trip enjoying reading about it.


I've thought of pepper spray, but have rejected the idea for a couple of reasons. First of all, I like dogs & wouldn't want to hurt them. Secondly, it won't stop the initial approach from the dog. It certainly won't help me as I'm riding towards a dog that has seen me until he decides to go for me, and the water is pretty effective at that stage, besides, I'm probably more likely to spray myself as well as any hounds in the vicinity 😊.

It's not the dog encounters that are the issue so much as the anticipation and the anxiety resulting from so many encounters.


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## Heigue'r (10 Nov 2019)

Excellent..stumbled accross the travel log on Monday..hooked,what an adventure


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Nov 2019)

Heigue'r said:


> Excellent..stumbled accross the travel log on Monday..hooked,what an adventure


Thank you! 😊

You may have to wait a little bit for your next fix!


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## tom73 (10 Nov 2019)

Not a lot to be said Mr H


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## CharlesF (10 Nov 2019)

Congrats on Stage 1, even though yo missed the ticker tape parade!


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Nov 2019)

h00chm0nster said:


> h00chm0nster said:
> 
> 
> > Wow! Great read! Fantastic to be able to follow you on your adventures. I’m picturing you singing and playing the drums on your bike: makes me laugh! But in a good way: so wonderful you’re riding your dream right now!
> ...


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Nov 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Congrats on Stage 1, even though yo missed the ticker tape parade!


Maybe I'm too modest to mention the parade! 😀


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## BoldonLad (10 Nov 2019)

Just found your Thread. 

Have caught up now. 

Brilliant!

Waiting for next update (im)patiently


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Nov 2019)

BoldonLad said:


> Just found your Thread.
> 
> Have caught up now.
> 
> ...


Thank you & welcome to this little adventure 😀

Patience!
There's a lot of chores to be done. I'm currently drying out the tent, sitting in the sun to protect it from three of the most malevolent semi feral cats I've ever met!

There's also some sightseeing to do, some beers to be had and some food to enjoy!

For anyone wanting more I highly recommend CrazyGuyOnABike for the treasure trove of journals. Sit back, read, enjoy, be inspired and start to make your own plans for a bike adventure. Big or small, long or short, it really doesn't matter. What matters is throwing a leg over the bike and going off to explore!


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## Pale Rider (16 Nov 2019)

You mentioned 'religion being everywhere' as you passed through what I believe is known as the bible belt.

Did you see any of the racism for which the area is infamous?

Perhaps I watch too many films, but in some of the forests you camped I could imagine finding a group of men in white pointy hats standing around a burning cross.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2019)

Pale Rider said:


> You mentioned 'religion being everywhere' as you passed through what I believe is known as the bible belt.
> 
> Did you see any of the racism for which the area is infamous?
> 
> Perhaps I watch too many films, but in some of the forests you camped I could imagine finding a group of men in white pointy hats standing around a burning cross.



The racism is an interesting point that I'll come back to when I've a bit more time. Surprisingly, it seems to be linked to the religion - someone has observed that Sunday is the most segregated day of the week.

To answer your specific question, no, I haven't seen any hooded men burning things - in fairness when I was stuck in the woods burning anything would have been pretty miraculous!


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2019)

My rest time in Nashville is coming to an end. The weather was bitterly cold for a few days so I was quite happy to be in some comfort!
Weather permitting I'll be heading off again on Wednesday, following the Natchez Trace Parkway, then linking up with the Mississippi River trail for a little while before joining the Southern Tier westbound.
Austin is the next big city, then Mexico, although if I'm feeling it I may make a detour through New Orleans.


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## Pale Rider (19 Nov 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The racism is an interesting point that I'll come back to when I've a bit more time.



Please do, the grittier, darker side of an area can be just as interesting as the nicer bits - from the safety of a computer screen.

I say that with a visit in mind I made to a friend in Dublin.

He took me for a short motoring tour, and I asked him to include some urban decay with the usual touristy bits.

We pulled into a street behind the Guinness brewery.

My friend swore, having not realised it was a dead end.

Sure enough, as we turned around (briskly) the local yobbos started pelting the car with stones.

It was almost as if they knew we had only come to gawp.

I suppose you could say we got what we deserved.


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## Heigue'r (25 Nov 2019)

Kerrygold...you just can't beat it👍


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2019)

Pale Rider said:


> Please do, the grittier, darker side of an area can be just as interesting as the nicer bits - from the safety of a computer screen.
> 
> I say that with a visit in mind I made to a friend in Dublin.
> 
> ...


To be honest my experience of the grittier places has been positive - once I calm down the instinctive (?) fear that rises.

The people are friendly, saluting, saying hello and generally giving off a positive vibe, even if every other indicator is negative - houses with tarps covering the roof, broken down cars dumped around houses etc.
That's a marked contrast to the suspicious looks I receive cycling through the richer neighbourhoods.

While there may be little outright racism on display, the relics definitely remain. 

It is a very complex issue.

As for your experience in Dublin, unfortunately I believe that is something common to the UK and Ireland. I've cycled through some of the dodgier areas of many cities in Europe with no issues. Cycling past Manchester and out of Dublin were two of my most unpleasant cycling experiences. I had no hassle, but there was an air of intimidation from groups of young men.


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## CharlesF (25 Nov 2019)

Seeing Nashville with your friends sounds magical, and anything to do with Johnny Cash, priceless. It’s great have new reads on a cold wet Monday.


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## Brandane (28 Nov 2019)

Wow; what a read @HobbesOnTour ! 
As an ex Merchant Navy apprentice deck officer (1978 to 81 ) I especially enjoyed your Atlantic crossing. Also look forward to reading about the Mexican section of your ride as I spent 6 months on a tanker which was on contract to PEMEX (Petroleos Mexicanos - I think is the name of the national petroleum refiners). We used to load at Salina Cruz in the south, and then discharge at various ports on the Pacific coast including Manzanillo (where I flew to join the ship), Ensenada, and Mazatlan where you are headed.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2019)

Thanks @Brandane The ship was the satisfaction of a long held dream! 

I'm sure times have changed since your day; One day I overheard the Captain commenting that he was nothing more than a remote control - all decisions about route, speed etc. were made in Head Office. He just implemented them.
When I got off in Norfolk the Captain and Chief Engineer were going for a run. Far from the carousing I expected when a ship made port! 

The technology too, is amazing. "Live" charts showing depth, currents and other ships as opposed to the "old" paper ones. Yet, at night, the Bridge was in total darkness and any lights strictly forbidden to ensure that human eyes could still see as well as possible! They may have state of the art navigation and radar equipment but the eyes are all important!

And in port! The organisation of the loading & unloading of the containers! Amazing! I'd never thought about such things but the logistics are beyond comprehension. The Second Officer took a morning to explain the whole system and told us that the only way such big container ships could operate efficiently was due to computers. He said that the logistics of placement, loading & unloading are too complicated for human minds.

As I'm getting closer to Mexico a certain apprehension is starting to build up. Mexico doesn't have a great reputation in these parts, but then again, when I lived in NL the next town over didn't have a great reputation! 

There's the language issue and for the first leg to Mazatlán I'll be following a route that few have cycled. But at the end of it I'll be cycling "The Devil's Backbone"! 😀


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## Brandane (29 Nov 2019)

Containerization of cargo was what spoiled the Merchant Navy as a job, @HobbesOnTour . All that efficiency might be good for profits and speed of turn-around in port; but it's not much fun for the crew who are full on working when in the old days you spent days (sometimes weeks) in port appreciating the local culture . Just like most walks of life, things were done in a much more leisurely fashion back then. And I'm beginning to sound old . Good luck with the rest of your trip, especially once you reach Mexico. I've been on this site for about 9 years and don't know how to bookmark a thread; but I'm about to learn .


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2019)

@Brandane ,
I certainly didn't mean to imply you were old!!! 😀

You're right about the speed of turnaround - typically 24 hours in port, or less.

And the crew certainly work their asses off! In this case, a handful of French officers with Filipino crew.

In NY/NJ there were new rules prohibiting shore leave from the immigration services. Due to some crew on some ships disappearing, any crew with less than 5 years of records entering (& leaving) the USA were prohibited from shore leave. It had a big affect on the crew.

Delighted to read you're learning how to bookmark! Many thanks for the compliment!


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## Brandane (29 Nov 2019)

A few years back I was working locally as a taxi driver and used to get occasional runs taking crew/officers from our local coal port at Hunterston to or from Glasgow airport for crew changes. Chatting to them was fun and finding out the changes to life on board over 30 odd years. We used to carry a full crew of about 40 personnel; from the Captain, Chief Engineer, deck and engineer officers, radio officer (probably replaced by a mobile phone now), deck crew, engine room crew, and catering staff.
All now reduced to about 20 I believe! No such thing as stewards to clean officers cabins and serve meals, it's all DIY - although you spoke about a steward @HobbesOnTour , so maybe they still have one where passengers are carried (I never sailed on a ship with passengers). No bar on some ships too, are they "dry"? Any ship I was on had 2 bars; one for officers one for crew, and they were the hub of the ships social life. Very well attended!


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## CharlesF (29 Nov 2019)

Loved your visit to Elvis' birth place, I'm a huge fan of his. And imagine you spoke to someone who knew him! I once read that he used wear mascara in the days around Sun Studios, I would ask if that was true. 

I'm sure you will find the local Mexicans friendly and helpful. I'm friends with a Bolivian lady, as far from drug dealing as you can get; so caring and thoughtful.

All the best as you head off into the "unknown".


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2019)

Brandane said:


> ....We used to carry a full crew of about 40 personnel; from the Captain, Chief Engineer, deck and engineer officers, radio officer (probably replaced by a mobile phone now), deck crew, engine room crew, and catering staff.
> All now reduced to about 20 I believe! No such thing as stewards to clean officers cabins and serve meals, it's all DIY ...
> 
> are they "dry"? Any ship I was on had 2 bars; one for officers one for crew, and they were the hub of the ships social life. Very well attended!


All in there were about 20 on board - officers, crew & up to 3 passengers.

I was told the ship was dry....but it wasn't! Wine served with lunch & dinner.
The Officer's mess had 3 tables; One for French officers, one for Filipino & the table in the middle for passengers. Filipino crew had a separate mess.

The French officers had their own bar and the Filipino officers and crew had a separate one.

The steward was there for food service & cabin cleaning. Split shifts every day. A real PITA trying to organise going ashore for him.

As you said, things have changed. For anyone considering such a trip, I'd imagine a good agent and an established company from a Western country would be top priorities.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Loved your visit to Elvis' birth place, I'm a huge fan of his. And imagine you spoke to someone who knew him! I once read that he used wear mascara in the days around Sun Studios, I would ask if that was true.
> 
> I'm sure you will find the local Mexicans friendly and helpful. I'm friends with a Bolivian lady, as far from drug dealing as you can get; so caring and thoughtful.
> 
> All the best as you head off into the "unknown".


Glad you liked it!
I wouldn't class myself as a big fan, but I really got a kick out of it.
The couple I chatted to had also visited Graceland and said that while parts were over the top there was also an authenticity to it too.

To be honest, it's not drug dealers I'm wary of. Americans aren't flavour of the month south of the border and it will automatically be assumed that I'm one of them!

There have been some kidnappings along the border too - far away from where I'm crossing.

And you're dead right - most locals everywhere are friendly and helpful. All my experience points to that. 😀


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## theloafer (1 Dec 2019)

this is a great read  have caught up now ... waiting in anticipation for the next update  stay safe


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## netman (2 Dec 2019)

I've been reading avidly and really enjoying the writing - had something in the back of my mind for a while and then you wrote it - The Road Not Taken! The perfect poem for your trip...

*The Road Not Taken* 
BY ROBERT FROST

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood,
And sorry I could not travel both
And be one traveler, long I stood
And looked down one as far as I could
To where it bent in the undergrowth;

Then took the other, as just as fair,
And having perhaps the better claim,
Because it was grassy and wanted wear;
Though as for that the passing there
Had worn them really about the same,

And both that morning equally lay
In leaves no step had trodden black.
Oh, I kept the first for another day!
Yet knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.

I shall be telling this with a sigh
Somewhere ages and ages hence:
Two roads diverged in a wood, and I—
I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference.


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Dec 2019)

netman said:


> I've been reading avidly and really enjoying the writing - had something in the back of my mind for a while and then you wrote it - The Road Not Taken! The perfect poem for your trip...
> 
> *The Road Not Taken*
> BY ROBERT FROST
> ...


A great poem, simple but deep. Thank you.

'Tis the great dilemma of the Traveller - where to go & which route to get there. I'm of the opinion that too much planning and research only confused the mind, a bit like a kid in a toyshop, we want it all.
Then there's the reality on the ground that can often be different to what we expected. 
Enjoying the moment is the key, being grateful for where we are, not frustrated at what we're missing.
Thank you for that!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Dec 2019)

FYI I've just tried to upload the latest updates, but the internet is dodgy and I can't get any pics up.

I'm nearing the end of the Natchez Trace (I'll miss it) but will soon be crossing the Mississippi!

Tomorrow may be a leisurely day so hopefully I can get a better connection!


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## CharlesF (8 Dec 2019)

Still waiting in anticipation for the next entry as something different happens each read, and I love the pictures of the roads and views from the road, gives us an idea of what you see as you ride along. 

A suggestion for _far in the future, _when the trip is finished. I would be very interested in how the bike is set up, gearing tyres, etras, etc; and what you carry in your panniers, what clothing, tools, how much food. All the detail!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Still waiting in anticipation for the next entry as something different happens each read, and I love the pictures of the roads and views from the road, gives us an idea of what you see as you ride along.
> 
> A suggestion for _far in the future, _when the trip is finished. I would be very interested in how the bike is set up, gearing tyres, etras, etc; and what you carry in your panniers, what clothing, tools, how much food. All the detail!


Oh dear! I'm not a huge fan of gear lists and my bike is far from being anything fancy. I'm a believer in KISS - Keep It Simple, Stupid! 😀
And as for gear, I pack what I think I'll need and keep me comfortable.

I will, when I've a bit of time throw up a list of stuff. Weight weenies prepare to be horrified!! 😀😀


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## netman (10 Dec 2019)

The hospitality at the church sounds amazing. And glad you're taking the dogs in your stride now! Enjoy Texas and thanks for the brilliant read so far...


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## Foghat (11 Dec 2019)

A fine journal you've got going there! Very interesting images and an enjoyable read.....


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2019)

netman said:


> The hospitality at the church sounds amazing. And glad you're taking the dogs in your stride now! Enjoy Texas and thanks for the brilliant read so far...


Thank you!
As for the dogs, I think a big part of it is that I stopped having multiple encounters every day - my anxiety level dropped as a result.

On top of that, there are lots of fences in Texas. That, coupled with ridiculously high speed limits means that more dogs don't have access to the roads. 

It all helps!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2019)

Foghat said:


> A fine journal you've got going there! Very interesting images and an enjoyable read.....


Thank you & welcome!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2019)

CharlesF said:


> A suggestion for _far in the future, _when the trip is finished. I would be very interested in how the bike is set up, gearing tyres, etras, etc; and what you carry in your panniers, what clothing, tools, how much food. All the detail!


Just to come back to this for a sec. I was thinking about this and all going well I'll be taking a few weeks in Mexico to learn some Spanish. I should have the time to do it then and can give a decent review of what's working & what isn't. 
I'll probably forget do it's your job to remind me!


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## CharlesF (12 Dec 2019)

Day 90 seems magical, it all sounded like a perfect day. 

I was intrigued with the purple paint, do you have a picture of any; you definitely need to know the local traditions/rules with that!


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Day 90 seems magical, it all sounded like a perfect day.
> 
> I was intrigued with the purple paint, do you have a picture of any; you definitely need to know the local traditions/rules with that!


I'll get you a picture. That's something I picked up from CGOAB.

I would copy & paste info that I thought might be useful as I came across it. That info was all dumped in a document file, normally by country. Then those files get transferred to my Kindle so I have a mass of info (disorganised, maybe), always with me.


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## CharlesF (13 Dec 2019)

What an idiot in the truck. I suppose it made him feel macho being in a truck and intimidating a vulnerable cyclist.

But

The campsite is fantastic, what pictures! And Vicky was what you needed to restore faith in man/womankind.


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## footloose crow (15 Dec 2019)

Love the laconic style of your writing and your honesty. Admire how you have stuck to your principles and beliefs in the face of adversity. 

Cycling alone brings out the introspective observer in all of us I think. It is good that you talk to people - sometimes when I have been cycling on my own I forget how to talk and just watch. Feel very inspired by your journey, the challenge to us all to not simply express jealousy but to take the first steps (or pedal revolutions!) ourselves. 

It must be lonely and frightening at times for you. There are many on this forum that think about you and hope you continue to journey safely and well. You are not alone! Vaya con dios.


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2019)

footloose crow said:


> Love the laconic style of your writing and your honesty. Admire how you have stuck to your principles and beliefs in the face of adversity.
> 
> Cycling alone brings out the introspective observer in all of us I think. It is good that you talk to people - sometimes when I have been cycling on my own I forget how to talk and just watch. Feel very inspired by your journey, the challenge to us all to not simply express jealousy but to take the first steps (or pedal revolutions!) ourselves.
> 
> It must be lonely and frightening at times for you. There are many on this forum that think about you and hope you continue to journey safely and well. You are not alone! Vaya con dios.


Thank you! Those are very kind words.

As far as I'm concerned, this Travelogue has two purposes - the first is a record for me, something I can look back on in my dotage - the second is to inspire. If I'm reading that someone is feeling inspired then I'm a happy man!

It may sound bizarre but I've had just as much fun at times pootling around Holland on weekends! Even though I lived there for over 20 years, I'd often pretend to be a tourist - for the full tourist experience 😊. 

My first bike tour as an adult was along the Danube, a company moving my bags from hotel to hotel! 6 years later I'm doing this! If I can do it, pretty much most people can! It's all in the head.

Again, thanks for the support.


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## cwskas (20 Dec 2019)

I am loving your posts. When do you plan to leave Austin?


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Dec 2019)

cwskas said:


> I am loving your posts. When do you plan to leave Austin?


Thanks!
I've already left Austin - it was hard to do!
Rolled into San Antonio last night - Friday


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## cwskas (22 Dec 2019)

I just caught up through day 100.

When you first posted your trip on the ACA forums, I had hoped I could meet you while you were in Austin. But timing didn’t work. Looking forward to the rest of your trip.


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## Blue Hills (22 Dec 2019)

Still in texas hobbes?

Take care

BBC News - West Lothian round-the-world cyclist injured in US crash
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-50886714

Following your travelogue with interest.

Happy christmas/new year to you both


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2019)

Blue Hills said:


> Still in texas hobbes?
> 
> Take care
> 
> ...


Yeah, that guy is not having much luck.

My last two days riding involved riding in the dark as much as I try to avoid it.

I'm lit up like a Christmas tree and use my mirror extensively. I'm also very cautious, regularly pulling in to let traffic by if I don't trust them.

I can see no rhyme, rhythm or reason to speed limits here, especially in Texas which are the highest I've come across - up to 75 mph on two lane roads.

This really is a place where you want to pack up your testosterone and mail it home. The more I see, the more convinced I am that the biggest issue is ignorance - drivers think "well, I didn't hit you so there's no problem", unaware of the impact a pickup truck at high speed has passing close by a cyclist on a dodgy shoulder or edge of road.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Dec 2019)

CharlesF said:


> I was intrigued with the purple paint, do you have a picture of any; you definitely need to know the local traditions/rules with that!



Since the Sam Houston forest there have been less purple signs - the forest is public land and in these parts it's wide open - easy to see trespassers and pick them off with a rifle available in your local Walmart!

This one is a private house, taken from a distance. I'm not going to stand in front of someone's drive & snap their warnings!! 







This is another.... A gatepost into a field.





Back further east it was often just paint daubed on tree trunks or fence posts.


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## CharlesF (23 Dec 2019)

Thank for the purple pictures, I find it really intriguing and wonder when and who started it. I think I need some time with Mr Google!

I continue to enjoy your pictures of the roads, makes it reading your roads come a live for someone miles away.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Dec 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Thank for the purple pictures, I find it really intriguing and wonder when and who started it. I think I need some time with Mr Google!
> 
> I continue to enjoy your pictures of the roads, makes it reading your roads come a live for someone miles away.


If you find out anything let me know!

I think you're following me on Strava, but for anyone else..
Without meaning to plug my Strava feed is exclusively pictures of the road. I try to use as few here as possible, but at the moment no camera can do the scale and immensity of the landscape justice, so it's mainly road ones.

If you have Strava (no sub required)
Check out Hobbes OnTour on Strava
https://www.strava.com/athletes/22850894


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## CharlesF (23 Dec 2019)

Purple Posts. Now we know!


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## CharlesF (25 Dec 2019)

Happy Christmas!


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## Richard Fairhurst (25 Dec 2019)

Yes, Merry Christmas Hobbes!


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## netman (25 Dec 2019)

Yep, Merry Christmas @HobbesOnTour - hope you're having a great time...


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## Blue Hills (26 Dec 2019)

Merry boxing day hobbes.
Apologies if addressed in your journal (am following but haven't read all) but a question occurred to me while idly watching bits of Oklahoma! On brit tv - did any films help inspire your desire to pedal across the US interior?


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Dec 2019)

Blue Hills said:


> Merry boxing day hobbes.
> Apologies if addressed in your journal (am following but haven't read all) but a question occurred to me while idly watching bits of Oklahoma! On brit tv - did any films help inspire your desire to pedal across the US interior?


Movie? No.
I would have loved westerns when I was a kid. The inspiration would have come mainly from music and books.
Books like the North & South trilogy, especially the third, by John Jakes, the novels of Zane Grey & Larry McMurtry, other Texan authors like Kinky Friedman & Joe R Lansdale. And Steinbeck too. I gave serious consideration to replicating the Joad's route from Grapes of Wrath or the looping route from Travels with Charlie. In the end I opted for my musical pilgrimage


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## theloafer (26 Dec 2019)

Merry boxing day hobbes... have caught up


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## Blue Hills (26 Dec 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Movie? No.
> I would have loved westerns when I was a kid. The inspiration would have come mainly from music and books.
> Books like the North & South trilogy, especially the third, by John Jakes, the novels of Zane Grey & Larry McMurtry, other Texan authors like Kinky Friedman & Joe R Lansdale. And Steinbeck too. I gave serious consideration to replicating the Joad's route from Grapes of Wrath or the looping route from Travels with Charlie. In the end I opted for my musical pilgrimage


Kinky friedman i just have to google.
Ps, don't watch Badlands.


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## cwskas (27 Dec 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Two days ago when I turned off the highway onto the backroads the spirit of adventure was pumping through my veins.
> 
> A couple of weeks ago when I saw the Mississippi for the first time I felt like an explorer.
> 
> ...



Well said and very inspiring. Thanks for taking time to post.


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2019)

cwskas said:


> Well said and very inspiring. Thanks for taking time to post.


Thanks


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2019)

Blue Hills said:


> Kinky friedman i just have to google.
> Ps, don't watch Badlands.


Too late! 😀


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## Blue Hills (28 Dec 2019)

Just read up to your impending exit from Texas Hobbes, which you appear to have loved.

Was a bit puzzled/confused by this statement though:

>>I'm really glad about the way I did this part of the trip. As opposed to following a route I was visiting places that I wanted to visit. There were times if I was just following a route I think I would have considered abandoning it.

Can you explain/say more?


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2019)

@Blue Hills 
Lots of people select a route, for example, The Atlantic Coast Route or the Southern Tier and ride that. The "route" is what they are riding.

The US stage of this little adventure was about visiting places I wanted to visit - the cycling just happened to link them together.

If I had set out to cycle the Atlantic coast route I could well have aborted it once I discovered the reality of the roads suggested.

I'd easily imagine that if I had no particular grá for Texas the highways recently passed and the ones to come (if I continued west) would also be testing.

I'm glad that I chose places I wanted to visit first, then organised to cycle between them rather than selecting a route and then trying to figure out what's interesting along it.

The fact of having regular destinations with different attractions was a great motivator and balm in times of discomfort.

Honestly, if I had three months to cycle coast to coast and all I had to focus on was the arrival on the other side I'd probably become a little crazier than I already am. Just the mental focus of "getting to the end" would probably tip the balance away from being able to stop and smell the roses.

I'm of the opinion that just about anyone can bike tour on just about any bike. People tend to focus on gearing, weight, ascents etc and neglect the mental gearing, mental & emotional weight we're lugging around and the mental & emotional rollercoaster we can ride on a tour. When we get the balance right between physical, bike & gear and mental preparation we can really enjoy ourselves!

Now I've to go & cross a border!


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2019)

FYI

I'm about to head into Mexico where my internet coverage is an unknown quantity. Don't be surprised if there's no updates for a while, or if they become sporadic. 

I'll keep writing ( journal keeping is a really good habit and very enjoyable, I find!) but I may not be able to post.


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## Blue Hills (28 Dec 2019)

You are one of those NASA space missions of my childhood Hobbes - but on a bike - hope to hear you on the other side of the static fog.


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2019)

Blue Hills said:


> You are one of those NASA space missions of my childhood Hobbes - but on a bike - hope to hear you on the other side of the static fog.


Ah Jayzus! It's not the other side of the moon!  I just need to locate a Sim card!


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## cwskas (28 Dec 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> FYI
> 
> I'm about to head into Mexico where my internet coverage is an unknown quantity. Don't be surprised if there's no updates for a while, or if they become sporadic.
> 
> I'll keep writing ( journal keeping is a really good habit and very enjoyable, I find!) but I may not be able to post.



I look forward to whatever thoughts and pictures you are able to post. It has been very inspiring to vicariously ride with you. I am preparing for my first multi-day trip and posts like yours to Blue Hills above are very good advice.


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## cwskas (28 Dec 2019)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Day 106, Friday Dec 27, Brackettville to Del Rio 54km
> 
> Before I leave Texas, I have to say what a fantastic place it is!! I rode into Texas on December 08 and I'll be leaving 20 days later - and I've still only seen a tiny piece of the State! It's huge!!
> 
> I loved it, but then again I've wanted to visit for a long time.


There are many beautiful places and many roads. It is a shame there are not more cyclists taking advantage of them. I hope you are able to return sometime.


> Texans appear to be genuinely friendly....


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2019)

cwskas said:


> I am preparing for my first multi-day trip and posts like yours to Blue Hills above are very good advice.


I look forward to reading about it!


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## IaninSheffield (30 Dec 2019)

@HobbesOnTour becomes HobbesinMexico! Well done sir!
I'm not sure I would find in those interminably long, straight roads and apparently unchanging landscape the delight that you seem to. Chapeau sir!


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## CharlesF (30 Dec 2019)

Lying in hospital and I have caught up. The pictures of Mexico are very different to Texas, strange how a man-made border has different scenery on either side, or that’s my perception after reading the entries. I’m so glad that the ordinary people continue to be pleasant.

In one you mentioned your trousers had worn out, did you manage to find replacement? I must be boarded going down to that level of detail!


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2019)

CharlesF said:


> Lying in hospital and I have caught up. The pictures of Mexico are very different to Texas, strange how a man-made border has different scenery on either side, or that’s my perception after reading the entries. I’m so glad that the ordinary people continue to be pleasant.
> 
> In one you mentioned your trousers had worn out, did you manage to find replacement? I must be boarded going down to that level of detail!


Sorry to read you're in hospital, especially at this time of the year. Hoping it's nothing serious.

To be honest, until today the landscapes were quite similar between Texas and Mexico - the main difference being scale and lack of trees. I'm no botanist, but the scrub looks similar, just more stunted south of the border. That, combined with fewer trees means I can see more!

As for my trousers......yes! Your focus on detail is a little disturbing! 😀
However, if you'd read closely enough I picked up a pair in Austin anticipating the inevitable! 😀

Take care of yourself


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## CharlesF (31 Dec 2019)

I’m fine, thanks. Re the trousers funny how that stuck out and then I never remembered the solution! I think it was because I was please that you are “ able” to cycle sans Lycra.


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## Vantage (31 Dec 2019)

Regarding those trousers, which model did you use Hobbes? 
I'm after a pair as I plan on touring without the lycra and wondered about a good alternative.


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2019)

Vantage said:


> Regarding those trousers, which model did you use Hobbes?
> I'm after a pair as I plan on touring without the lycra and wondered about a good alternative.


Oh dear! I'm afraid I can't tell you - they were quite old & Decathlon don't do them anymore - my one irritation with Decathlon - they are always replacing their range. I did check my local Decathlon before I left and the material they are using now is different and not, in my opinion, suitable for on the bike.

The zip off trousers I got in REI in Austin have still not been used - I'm back in shorts - also Decathlon, also no longer in stock. They're my favourite to tour in unless it's very cold. Cargo style hiking shorts. Rip resistant, quick drying and easy to wipe off. The multiple pockets come in very handy.

Sorry I can't be more help


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## Vantage (31 Dec 2019)

No probs Hobbes. I went there today to look at walking trousers. They had loads of different ones but all had one thing in common......all sized for lanky giants. Nothing for the vertically challenged amongst us.


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2019)

Happy New Year, folks!

Some highlights so far.

Thanks for following along & here's hoping for a fantastic 2020 for us all!


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> BBC News - West Lothian round-the-world cyclist injured in US crash
> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-50886714



An update for anyone interested

https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-50956941


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2020)

For anyone interested, here's a good video of the Natchez Trace Parkway. (His other videos are interesting too).


View: https://youtu.be/WOzml_UTGEI


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## Blue Hills (1 Jan 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> An update for anyone interested
> 
> https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-50956941


Yes saw that. Was amazed by the rapid dismissal of the incident by the US police as "just an accident" . The "angel" should have been sat on the shoulder of the driver shouting in their ear.
Worries me.


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## IaninSheffield (1 Jan 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> An update for anyone interested
> 
> https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-50956941


A rather too thin line I fear.


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## CharlesF (6 Jan 2020)

Congrats on the first desert crossing, hopefully the will have as many nice people as the first.


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## Blue Hills (6 Jan 2020)

Question re your coffee habit hobbes. From a coffee head. You often describe, with appreciation,managing to find your first coffee of the day. Don t you carry stuff with you to fix your habit?


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jan 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Question re your coffee habit hobbes. From a coffee head. You often describe, with appreciation,managing to find your first coffee of the day. Don t you carry stuff with you to fix your habit?


Of course! Never without it. However, there is no comparison in the ease & speed of rolling up to a store and getting a cup of coffee as opposed to brewing one & the unpacking/packing that entails.


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## Vantage (10 Jan 2020)

It's nice to see that Mexico hasn't been quite the tourist kidnapping extravaganza that you feared. 
By all accounts, it sounds like a very nice place indeed! Happy trails amigo!


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## IaninSheffield (10 Jan 2020)

Find it heart-warming that you're mostly welcomed and feted in a country where you're a stranger, perhaps even more so than you might be in your own country?
Examples similar to the kindnesses you seem to have enjoyed since arriving in Mexico are, at least in my experience, sadly much rarer for the cycle tourer here in the UK.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2020)

Vantage said:


> It's nice to see that Mexico hasn't been quite the tourist kidnapping extravaganza that you feared.
> By all accounts, it sounds like a very nice place indeed! Happy trails amigo!



That makes two of us @Vantage 

The advice for the two states I've been in is to "reconsider your need to travel".

Every day I'll pass the paramilitary Police checkpoints. They hardly register with me now. For example, yesterday arriving in Durango I was waved around the back of one to avoid the traffic.

Also, I haven't really hit any of the tourist areas either. That may also be a factor.

But yes, it is a very nice place! It may not be for everyone but I'm certainly enjoying it!


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## CharlesF (10 Jan 2020)

From your latest post, I can empathise with the height of the Dutch; I spend a fair bit of time Leiden and am dwarfed by most of the Dutch.

Also, I reckon Mexico can appoint you as unofficial Tourism Minister, you have made Mexico an unmissable destination with the pictures and friendliness of the people.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Find it heart-warming that you're mostly welcomed and feted in a country where you're a stranger, perhaps even more so than you might be in your own country?
> Examples similar to the kindnesses you seem to have enjoyed since arriving in Mexico are, at least in my experience, sadly much rarer for the cycle tourer here in the UK.



I'd tend to agree, not just with my limited experience in the UK & Ireland, but also on Mainland Europe with the possible exception of Spain. Unsolicited help or assistance is rare, yet I'm pretty sure that if I needed help it would be forthcoming.

I can't help but think that a lot of the difference is down to culture. I've had many positive encounters with people in Europe, but normally there has been a "reason" for them to break the ice - perhaps eating beside the loaded bike, or stopped looking at a map. 
Here, people turn around and come after me (in the best sense!). There is no formality to it, no apparent reason. It is very refreshing! 

Then there's the level of expression. In the UK or Ireland I might get a finger or two raised from a steering wheel in recognition, that was a standard greeting in a lot of rural USA. Here it's a full arm wave - or more! 

What I can offer no thoughts on are the trucks! Not all, certainly, but the vast majority, are beyond respectful and make me feel like a welcome part of the road community. In the States I was invisible!

Of course, in this part of Mexico a loaded bike tourist is a rarity so that's a factor too.

Sometimes on some of my weekend trips in NL I'd play the clueless foreign tourist (not a demanding role for me) and ask a question of someone. Then the hospitality & friendliness would be on display. A bit duplicitous on my part, but enjoyable.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2020)

CharlesF said:


> From your latest post, I can empathise with the height of the Dutch; I spend a fair bit of time Leiden and am dwarfed by most of the Dutch.
> 
> Also, I reckon Mexico can appoint you as unofficial Tourism Minister, you have made Mexico an unmissable destination with the pictures and friendliness of the people.



Thanks😊

For months I've been hearing how dangerous Mexico is, so such positive experiences are a real contrast to what I was conditioned for.


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## IaninSheffield (10 Jan 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> In the UK ... I might get a finger or two raised from a steering wheel


Yeah, I get that quite often ... unfortunately!


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Jan 2020)

Just an FYI
Still tootling along the Devil's Backbone. Taking my time to soak it all up. Internet is intermittent but not strong enough to upload pictures. Will be posting more when I can


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## Blue Hills (17 Jan 2020)

Thanks for the post hobbes.
Wandered over here after getting worried that no post on main thread since the 10th.


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## Brandane (18 Jan 2020)

Sorry to hear about Hobbes , hopefully through the magic of internet communication he might miraculously turn up again.


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## CharlesF (18 Jan 2020)

My condolences on Hobbes going missing, I know how you must feel to loose such a good buddy.

On a happier note, you photos continue to amaze, and do so much to show what your surrounding are like, Durango is beautiful.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jan 2020)

Thanks for the kind words. It might seem like Hobbes is just some stuffed material, but he's come to represent far more than that.

Besides, from the comic strip he's obviously a very witty, intelligent and keen observer of human nature - not a bad thing in a travelling companion!

Without meaning to deliberately heighten the suspense () I'm off the bike for the next while. I'll let the travelogue catch up with me a day at a time

I've made a slight change to the format including the climbing & descending as well as the min & max heights. I thought it might help people get a clearer picture.

If anyone has any suggestions for improvements I'm all ears - so long as it's not too much extra work. Please remember that all this is being done on a phone! Plus, internet connectivity (or at least decent connectivity) is increasingly difficult.

If anyone is genuinely worried, Hobbes on Tour is also on Facebook.
https://www.facebook.com/HobbesOnTour
I try to post something every day, when possible - it's really just a way of letting the most people know that I'm still alive! 

Since posting the photos is the most difficult here, that can lead to a delay in updating the Travelogue.

My genuine & sincere thanks to the @Moderators for allowing both the travelogue and this chat thread. Logistically it is much easier for me. 

I am really enjoying writing this. I heartily recommend it to anyone. Not only is it a great way to remember so many little details that would otherwise be forgotten quickly, it is a great exercise to do at the end of the day just to recognise what has been achieved, enjoyed and to put the tough times into perspective.

My thanks also to all those reading this. Travelling solo has its advantages & disadvantages. Knowing that there's a group of people following along is very heartening.

To any lurkers out there, don't be afraid to post something too, or ask a question. I've a few weeks learning Spanish so this is as good a time as any. There's no dumb questions - just maybe my dumb answers


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jan 2020)

CharlesF said:


> Durango is beautiful.


It is indeed! 
There's a lovely vibe to the city.
In fact, I considered staying here to learn Spanish when my original plan seemed to be unravelling.

It seems to get a lot of Mexican tourists, but not many from the rest of the world.

There's a wonderful civic pride on display in most (not all) Mexican towns and cities.

Apart from the public spaces like parks and squares that are well maintained and well used, you'll see people sweeping outside their houses and washing the pavements every morning.

Generally, the towns and cities are impeccably clean - footpaths and roads may be broken up - but they are clean! Unfortunately, roadsides can be heavily littered.

The bright colours of houses are also wonderful! A house may be falling apart, but it is painted brightly! 
I don't take too many photos of people's homes - I don't feel comfortable doing that.


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## Pat "5mph" (18 Jan 2020)

So sorry to read about missing Hobbes 
I wonder if some of your newfound Mexican connections will find him?
Take care!


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jan 2020)

Pat "5mph" said:


> So sorry to read about missing Hobbes
> I wonder if some of your newfound Mexican connections will find him?
> Take care!


Thank you!
Well, the word has gone out on Facebook, but I reckon he was picked up by someone else.
I did a thorough search in the area and he's too heavy to be blown far.
I reckon he's not lying on the side of the road in the litter - he's gone off on his own adventure!


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## cwskas (20 Jan 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've a few weeks learning Spanish so this is as good a time as any.



I hope you are relaxing in Mazatlan or other beautiful location while you learn Spanish.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2020)

cwskas said:


> I hope you are relaxing in Mazatlan or other beautiful location while you learn Spanish.


Yes, I'm planning on staying in Mazatlán for a few weeks. Sun, sea & Spanish is on the menu!😄


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## Heigue'r (23 Jan 2020)

Felicidadesgran logro


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jan 2020)

Gracias, señor 😀


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## Brandane (23 Jan 2020)

Congratulations on reaching Mazatlan; it's been a brilliant read over the past few months .
Mazatlan looks nothing like I remember, but I was there nearly 40 years ago - time flies!
Hope you have a great time there .


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## netman (23 Jan 2020)

Seriously, well done! Not just on the journey, but the travelogue too - it's been a real pleasure to follow your progress. Enjoy your time in Mazatlan - you've earned it!


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## cwskas (23 Jan 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I climbed a bit of a hill and there it was directly across the road! It was cloudy and therefore dull, but I'm pretty sure my smile alone added to the lumen level! I was delighted! I was so satisfied! Feck it - I was damn proud of myself! Ocean to ocean!





> Mazatlãn was the first decent place I came across in my planning that had a language school. The sea would be a bonus to spend time around. But I've actually cycled across a continent!



Praise indeed! What an accomplishment, inspiration & enjoyable vicarious journey for others thanks to your most excellent posts!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jan 2020)

Taking a break from my Spanish homework and it's very nice to read these messages! 
Thank you!

I'm moving out of my AirBnb tomorrow to move into a homestay. This will give me a chance to practise more with my Spanish (I hope!)

The first lesson was hell!! 
I finished college back in '93 (I think) and even though I studied myself for an accounting qualification for a couple of years afterwards I haven't picked up a book in anger since.

Quite a shock to my system! 😀

Learning the vocabulary is proving rather challenging! 😀

I want to give these few weeks the best shot possible because I know it will pay off further down the road.


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## Vantage (23 Jan 2020)

Sorry to hear about Mr Hobbes. 
As I was reading your post of day 125,i thought if he was going to go off on his own adventure, he's picked the perfect place to start. 
I caught myself smiling reading that post and I'm not someone who's easily impressed. That write up was fantastic!
Im also not someone who likes the idea of being in a foreign land. Different cultures, foods, etc. It just doesn't appeal to me. But from the photos and the way you've written and described Mexico? I soooooooooo wanna go there! 
Well done sir!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jan 2020)

Vantage said:


> Sorry to hear about Mr Hobbes.
> As I was reading your post of day 125,i thought if he was going to go off on his own adventure, he's picked the perfect place to start.
> I caught myself smiling reading that post and I'm not someone who's easily impressed. That write up was fantastic!
> Im also not someone who likes the idea of being in a foreign land. Different cultures, foods, etc. It just doesn't appeal to me. But from the photos and the way you've written and described Mexico? I soooooooooo wanna go there!
> Well done sir!


Wow!
Thank you, @Vantage !
Praise indeed!😊


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jan 2020)

Specs

Bike: Trek 800 Sport (Rigid) MTB

Wheel Front: 26 559 Front Wheel 36h Ryde Andra 30 Rim with SON 28 Dynohub - Black. Drilled for Schrader valve

Wheel Rear: 26 559 Rear Wheel 36h Ryde Andra 30 Rim with Deore 8/9/10 speed Hub - Black. Drilled for Schrader valve.

Tyres: Schwalbe Marathon Mondial 26 * 2,0

Chainset: Shimano Acera 42/32/22

Cassette: 7 Speed 11/32 (11/34 if I can get it)

Brakes: Deore Rim Brakes

Dynamo: Son 28

Charger: Cycle2Charge

Front Rack: Old Man Mountain Pioneer 

Rear Rack: Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack

Front light: SON Edelux High Power LED 

Rear Light: Generic Battery operated 

Saddle: Brook's C17

Seatpost: Thorn Micro Adjust Alloy Seat Post

Trailer: Extra Wheel with additional rack

Trailer Wheel: 26 559 Front Wheel 36h Ryde Andra 30 Rim

Trailer tyre: Schwalbe Marathon Plus 26*1,5 (left over)

Trailer Rear Light: Busch & Muller Secula Rear Light - Mudguard Fitting


Misc:

Delta Nylon Toe Clip & Strap Set - Black

SKS Chromoplastic Mudguard Set - 26" 

Mount Skidmore Bottle Cage Adapters *2

Oversized bottle holders *2 (1 Topeak, 1BBB)

Small Decathlon saddle bag

Cheapy compact pump that works quite well given its price

Clickstand

Bar end mirror


Discuss! 

Roccado on day 1






In development





Getting closer...






And Rocco...... Where it all began!


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## CharlesF (23 Jan 2020)

And congratulations from me. Each diary entry has been anticipated and throughly enjoyed, and pictures have brought it all to life.


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## IaninSheffield (24 Jan 2020)

Was half expecting @HobbesOnTour 's spec list to be in Spanish


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Jan 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Was half expecting @HobbesOnTour 's spec list to be in Spanish


That would have been much easier!!

mi bicicleta


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Jan 2020)

Vantage said:


> Im also not someone who likes the idea of being in a foreign land. Different cultures, foods, etc. It just doesn't appeal to me. But from the photos and the way you've written and described Mexico? I soooooooooo wanna go there!
> Well done sir!


Just to come back to this for a minute……

I read once that travelling by bike is so good because we can actually see and often feel the subtle changes from place to place. I fully agree!

If I get on a plane and fly from Amsterdam to Madrid, the differences are very stark, whether that's weather, language, food, landscape etc.

However, if I cycle from Amsterdam to Spain I experience many, many variations at a relatively slow pace and have lots of time to adapt.

The other thing about a bike trip is that it is very primitive. Each day becomes about finding water, food and travelling to a safe place to sleep. Even if there's a café every mile and your accommodation is a 5* hotel you still have to get to them! 

I find that on a bike (say, as opposed to a car) I appreciate the basics much more because I have to earn them by propelling myself along. In a car I just turn off at the next services.

For me, this also has the knock on effect that less satisfies more. Simply put, it requires more effort on a bike to give me more choice, therefore I need a darn good reason to turn my nose up at what is in front of me.

Finally, donning a "touring head" changes us, or at least, me! For one thing, time loses its significance. The focus of my daily life changes (water, food, sleep). My interactions with people change. When so many things are different, differences don't seem as significant as they would from far away.

I'm an incredibly fussy eater. Always have been and have caused much, much annoyance with that!
Truthfully, I'd rather not be so fussy.

A bike trip forces me out of my comfort zone and when I'm hungry enough I'll eat most things! I still have my limits, though! 

I guess what I'm trying to say is that if some big hand plucked me out of my life in NL and dropped me at one of the roadside restaurants I've eaten at recently my stomach would be applying for a body transplant!

However, having pedalled up to one I am far more comfortable to pull up a chair and let a random stranger feed me random food.

It's a gradual process, definitely something I knew I'd have to face and another thing I'm a bit chuffed about.

The fact is, that compared to the mainly junk food on offer in the US, this food is far superior!

Finally, a big factor is the natural friendliness of the locals who rarely don't engage as best they can.

I can't imagine getting the same positive responses from many restaurants in my usual part of the world if I rolled up, stuttered that I was hungry and smiled hopefully. There's not many places would bring things out for me to see or even taste!

In this way the local culture is actually helping me along in the eating stakes. 

So, to finally get to the point , for things like strange food it's not as bad as we might think sitting at home. Once on the road the changes can be gradual and easier to manage.


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## Vantage (2 Feb 2020)

Whilst I understand that you need a break every now and then, I really must insist you get back to cycling Mr @HobbesOnTour .
Im bored!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Feb 2020)

Vantage said:


> Whilst I understand that you need a break every now and then, I really must insist you get back to cycling Mr @HobbesOnTour .
> Im bored!


Well now, Mr @Vantage I really must insist that you get out on that shiny new bike of yours and cycle away from all that boredom!

Or try learning Spanish! Boredom won't be an issue, although frustration might be!! 😀

It's a tough life here in Mazatlãn - it rained yesterday - the first rain since....... Oh I can't remember!! 😀😀

I'm here for another week, at least, possibly two so you'll need something to keep yourself going 😉

But seriously, that trip with your Dad..............That'll be fantastic! It makes me very jealous! Not something I ever got to do. Squeeze every ounce of enjoyment out of it!


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## Vantage (2 Feb 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> But seriously, that trip with your Dad..............That'll be fantastic! It makes me very jealous! Not something I ever got to do. Squeeze every ounce of enjoyment out of it!



Well we've agreed on 30 miles a day roughly and chosen our campsites. 
Dad's just got himself a turbo trainer to get fit for the trip and step mum sent me a video of him on it. Wonder how long it'll be before he burns it out of boredom 
So he's getting ready already 
I don't think we've rode together since I was a kid.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

Ok, someone asked for a gear list….so here it is!

Gear list

I carry 4 panniers and a rackbag as well as a handlebar bag.

Two of the panniers are what I call "dry" - I should only need to open them at the end of the day. These are the ones I carry on the bike.

The other two panniers are mainly for food and are designed to be opened during the day 

Pannier 1:

1 pair shoes (I'm wearing another)
Maps
Silk Sleeping bag liner
Sleeping Bag, Down, customised (Cold feet!), rated -16C
Drybag night clothes
Drybag Extra (heavy) jumper

Night Clothes:
1 Merino Socks
1 Merino Underwear
1 Merino Long johns
1 light Merino top
1 Merino Balaclava
1 Merino glove liners

Extra Drybag
1 Heavy Merino Top
1 Wooly hat

Pannier 2

Major toolkit
Snugpak Jungle Blanket
Down Jacket
Drybag cycling clothes
Drybag Other clothes
Drybag Cycling Clothes
2 Quick dry underwear
1 Merino Socks
1 Football top
2 Merino tops
1 Quick dry t-shirt
1 Camping pants (zip off)
1 Hiking Shorts
1 Quickdry, long sleeve hot weather top

Drybag Other Clothes
1 Merino socks
1 Underwear
2 Merino t-shirts
1 Fleece
1 Camping pants (zip off)
2 Regular t-shirts

Major Toolkit:

Adjustable spanner
Cone wrenches
"Proper" hex key
Cassette removal tool
Crank Extractor
Screwdriver with multiple heads
Nail polish (for scratches
Quicklink tool
Fibrefix spoke *2
Chainwear tool
Grease
Split between the two panniers are:

Tablet
Kindle
Fold out solar panel
Spare cables, brake pads, tent repair patches, various nuts & bolts, power bank, spare batteries (headlamp/lights), cable ties, gorilla tape, spare wiring & connectors for dynamo.
Adapters, memory cards & associated cables, battery charger

Kitchen Panniers

Trangia cookset
Stanly Thermos 75cl
Collapsible plate large
Collapsible plate small
Collapsible cup
Spork
Spatula
Knife
Corkscrew/bottle opener
4 water bladders (1-3 ltr)
Water filter & accessories
Water purification tabs
Breakfast bag:
Coffee, sweetener, honey, oatmeal, couscous, 
Meal Bag:
Whatever "meals" I'm planning to eat. Usually pasta, noodles, sauces, tortillas, crackers, tuna.
Misc bag:
Whatever snacks I'm carrying - trail mix, peanut butter/Nutella, fruit, jerky, 
Small bag of condiments:
Olive oil, various seasonings, a tube of tomato puree etc.

Toilet bag
Spare tube
Spare plastic bags

The actual composition varies day by day due to the necessity to balance the trailer.

The idea is that these panniers operate well below capacity so that groceries can be added daily or extra food & water can be added when necessary.

RackBag

Thermarest Trail Pro sleeping mat
Alite camping chair
Spare Folding tyre
CamelBak 3 ltr
First Aid kit
On the road toolkit (puncture repair, spoke key, quick link, tyre boot, gloves.
Chain lube
Laundry bag (washing powder, line, a few pegs plus space for wet laundry that can't be dried)
Misc. bits'n'bobs - extra elastic for strapping, a couple of straps, two locks - one long combi cable lock and one small lock made of layers of springy stainless steel - very difficult to cut in the normal way). Couple of extra drybags.
Currently carrying an extra cassette.
Emergency (foil) blanket
Sewing kit
Extra guyline rope.
Trailer Drybag
This is my foul weather gear:

1 Goretex jacket (ex military)
1 Gorewear Jacket (for cold weather)
1 Gorewear Rainpants
1 Balaclava
1 Overshoes 
Plastic bags for feet
Alu foil for inside shoes
Heavy duty waterproof gloves
Merino glove liners
Orange HiViz (normally strapped on the RackBag)

I also have a cheapy Decathlon (small) backpack that I brought to have on the ship and for carrying documents related to the ship. I've kept it since it's proving very handy! It straps on top of the rackpack.

Handlebar Bag:

Camera
Passport, associated docs & vaccinations.
Current map
Powerbank
Plug
Snacks
Daily cash
Spare batteries (headlamp)
Headlamp
Keys
Powerbank & associated cables
Notebook & pen
Glasses
Bug repellant
Plastic Spork
iPod & headphones
Barbag cover
Helmet cover.
Fold up shopping bag
In addition, I also have a small saddlebag with 2 tubes, multitool & Leatherman.

Tent
The original plan was to carry this on the trailer, but I was sailing close to exceeding the max weight for the rack (not the trailer).

It sits on the front Rack
It's an Exped Orion Extreme, 2 man.

Not the lightest, especially since I added the footprint and extra pegs for different conditions.

It's what I refer to as a "Smart" tent and it's quite possible it's too smart for me!
My biggest issue is that one side is longer than the other (by design) which makes it difficult to pitch one side tautly.
Also, in cooling weather or wet weather there is significant sagging of the material. Recently, where evening temperatures plummet quickly a repegging/adjustment is required.

However, it does appear to be tough and is reasonably freestanding which were my two main requirements.

Miscellaneous comments:
Love my trangia. 
My thermos is the business! For coffee, for finishing cooking for a warm drink on a cold night.
Sleeping pad is big & bulky (1 kg) but is tough and is comfortable. 

Last year I was shocked to learn that synthetic sleeping bags degrade significantly over time so I upgraded to a down bag. Same size and weight as my old synthetic, but about 18C extra protection.

The Snugpak is to be used instead of the main bag or in addition to it as conditions demand.

The camping chair has not had a lot of use on this trip so far but has proven a Godsend in foul weather. I can sit under shelter, off the wet ground and cook and eat in comfort.

Spare spokes are carried in the handlebars (for each wheel).

Any questions? Fire away!


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## Vantage (12 Feb 2020)

As you say, better to be comfy than sleek.
2 different sized plates though? I suppose you'll have a spare if one breaks 
Easy to look at that list and think OMFG!!!!!! I did at first, but considering the distance you're doing and where, maybe it isn't so nuts 
I'd be needing a small diesel engine to be hauling all that though 

Hows the spanish coming along? The language that is, not the small crew you've hired to pull you up the hills


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## Blue Hills (12 Feb 2020)

Many thanks for that list @HobbesOnTour 
Will look through it at my leisure.
If you don't mind getting gear nerdy (though you maybe asked for it) can i ask about the snugpak jungle blanket, which caught my eye?
Am a fan of their stuff and will be near them soon.
How do you find it?
I know some such things can suffer performance degredation in use. How is the warmth of yours holding up?
I understand there are two sizes - can i ask which you use?


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## CharlesF (12 Feb 2020)

@HobbesOnTour . Thanks very much for providing the list for your fans! You have everything really well sorted and I’m glad to see comfort and convenience are key, that’s my way of travelling.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

Vantage said:


> As you say, better to be comfy than sleek.
> 2 different sized plates though? I suppose you'll have a spare if one breaks
> Easy to look at that list and think OMFG!!!!!! I did at first, but considering the distance you're doing and where, maybe it isn't so nuts
> I'd be needing a small diesel engine to be hauling all that though
> ...


Yes, I'm built for comfort, not speed 😀
It's interesting the things people focus on!
Actually, the smaller plate could more accurately be described as a bowl, but is rarely used as a bowl.
In fact, the two plates are hardly being used this trip (so far) as I'm doing so little "proper" cooking. Very handy though for holding chopped veg etc.

My Spanish is progressing about as slow and steady as I would up a steep hill! 😀 A bit wobbly at times, but getting there!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Many thanks for that list @HobbesOnTour
> Will look through it at my leisure.
> If you don't mind getting gear nerdy (though you maybe asked for it) can i ask about the snugpak jungle blanket, which caught my eye?
> Am a fan of their stuff and will be near them soon.
> ...


Ooh!
I just checked the tag and there's no size, and I don't use the stuff sack so I can't give the size, other than it's square and barely covers me from shoulder to feet.
I can't say how good it is because I simply haven't got to use it in extreme (cold) conditions.
I like the fact that it is multipurpose - not just in a sleeping situation, but also as a seat or wrap.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

CharlesF said:


> @HobbesOnTour . Thanks very much for providing the list for your fans! You have everything really well sorted and I’m glad to see comfort and convenience are key, that’s my way of travelling.


To my way of thinking......
If I'm on the bike 6-8hours a day that leaves 16-18 hours a day that I also need to be comfortable. 
Throw in variable weather into the equation and requirements grow.
After a hard day in rain & cold there's little nicer than some comfy, warm, dry clothes!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

Oooh!
I forgot about locks!
I carry 2
One is a long combination cable lock (bought specifically for the trailer)
The other is an interesting one I bought at a Dutch expo. The guy did a very convincing demo using angle grinders and saws that were very ineffective against the tensioned layers of steel. Of course it needs to be accompanied by a good lock.

The small one is used to lock the frame to something and the cable to loop through saddle and trailer.

My idea is that nothing will stop a determined and equipped thief, but I hope that my gear will at least slow them down or encourage them to move on to an easier target.

It also helps that my bike is a regular, old MTB, at least at first glance.

I rarely lock the bike when popping into a shop but always do when going into a larger store where sightlines are more difficult.


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## Blue Hills (12 Feb 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Ooh!
> I just checked the tag and there's no size, and I don't use the stuff sack so I can't give the size, other than it's square and barely covers me from shoulder to feet.
> I can't say how good it is because I simply haven't got to use it in extreme (cold) conditions.
> I like the fact that it is multipurpose - not just in a sleeping situation, but also as a seat or wrap.



Thanks for the reply hobbes.

Can I ask how tall you are?

If you do ever measure it let me know.

Since seeing your posts I have read some very good write-ups of it online.

Snugpak do do some nice sensible stuff.


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## Blue Hills (12 Feb 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It also helps that my bike is a regular, old MTB, at least at first glance.



But I assume rides wonderfully.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Thanks for the reply hobbes.
> 
> Can I ask how tall you are?
> 
> ...


Oh dear Lord! 😀
I genuinely don't know how tall I am. Less than 6 feet anyway. Taller than average in Mexico and below the average in NL.😀

Having tried a couple of liners I decided versatility was the key and got that to beef up my old bag.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> But I assume rides wonderfully.


I've no complaints.


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## cwskas (15 Feb 2020)

Great post! Thanks for the pictures! I was hoping you would make It to Guadalajara & Mexico City. Teotihuacan is well worth a stop as well.


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Feb 2020)

cwskas said:


> Great post! Thanks for the pictures! I was hoping you would make It to Guadalajara & Mexico City. Teotihuacan is well worth a stop as well.


I haven't made it anywhere yet! 😀


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## Blue Hills (17 Feb 2020)

Burning question.
What's the heritage of mazi?
A mexican cartoon hero?


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Feb 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Burning question.
> What's the heritage of mazi?
> A mexican cartoon hero?


Ehm.......I wandered around the old town of Mazatlãn looking at stuffed characters......and he caught my eye.
If he has any pedigree or heritage I'm not aware of it😀


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## crossfire (18 Feb 2020)

Nice to see you have a new cycling buddy,I just wonder what will happen if the old one returns. No fighting I hope!


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## cwskas (20 Feb 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> They use their whole face to smile here, not just their mouths. Eyes light up and twinkle just as brightly as the mouths. There's a depth and genuineness (if that's even a word!) that I think is wonderful. It is certainly inspiring and motivational.



So well put. I had the good fortune to spend a lot of time in Mexico earlier in my life and that is exactly how I remember it. I can see their faces as you write!


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## PaulSB (23 Feb 2020)

@HobbesOnTour I only discovered your thread a few days ago. I'm busy catching up and thoroughly enjoying the read. You make this reader feel as though he is on the trip.

Thanks and good luck.


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## CharlesF (24 Feb 2020)

Glad you are back in the saddle, I have an interesting read to look forward to! I am mighty impressed with you riding in that heat, much harder than hill climbing. As always your photos bring everything to life.


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## cwskas (26 Feb 2020)

It looks like Mazi is enjoying the layover.


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Feb 2020)

CharlesF said:


> Glad you are back in the saddle, I have an interesting read to look forward to! I am mighty impressed with you riding in that heat, much harder than hill climbing. As always your photos bring everything to life.


Did you miss the parts where I'm climbing....in the heat??


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Feb 2020)

I've made a small change and totted up as best I can the cumulative kilometerage (?) to date.
I'll keep that up to date from now on as well. It's handy for keeping track of maintenance.


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## cwskas (27 Feb 2020)

Really enjoyed your posts about Tequila. I drove the quota one weekend from Guadalajara to Mazatlan and then back. My companions and I all enjoyed the scenery and it brings back good memories. We arrived back in Guadalajara very late (passed through Tequila around sunset) on Sunday night and I remember being a bit anxious about the 'don't be out after dark' warnings.

We had no issues. However, when we got up the next day, there were stories on the front page of the newspaper about a roadblock that had been set up on that very road from Tequila to Guadalajara the night before, all cars were stopped and the passengers robbed!

I do not remember the name (it quite likely would not be the same I suppose), but there was an Argentinian steak house in Guadalajara which had the best steak I have ever eaten. Just food for thought, if you haven't left Guadalajara yet.


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## CharlesF (27 Feb 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Did you miss the parts where I'm climbing....in the heat??


Opps


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Feb 2020)

cwskas said:


> ..., when we got up the next day, there were stories on the front page of the newspaper about a roadblock that had been set up on that very road from Tequila to Guadalajara the night before, all cars were stopped and the passengers robbed!
> 
> I do not remember the name (it quite likely would not be the same I suppose), but there was an Argentinian steak house in Guadalajara which had the best steak I have ever eaten. Just food for thought, if you haven't left Guadalajara yet.



Using the iOverlander app there are regular points marked where people were stopped for "donations" and other places where people were run off from stealth camping spots by armed men.

It has been explained to me that the Government hasn't always been fair in dealings over land for Government projects so locals sometimes seek redress in their own way - as in the unofficial tolls. 

Also, the cartels are now involved in far more than drugs. Fuel & illegal logging are also big business. I haven't put it in a post yet but I have seen trucks being tailed by armed guys in "private security" vehicles. I can only assume they are a guard detail.

Even in Guadalajara there are heavily armed private security guards on some of the fancier department stores.

It's important to be aware of the risks and dangers, but at the same time not be overpowered by fears. 

I'll wait for Argentina for an Argentinian steak 😊


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## netman (3 Mar 2020)

_"One of the greatest things about travelling on a bike is that it can be so easy to simply exist in the moment. I think it's incredibly healthy not to be thinking of the past or the future, just concentrating on making the best of now. It took a while for me to learn that and it's not always easy to stay in the moment, especially after a lifetime of constantly looking forwards or behind."_

Very nicely said, and something we'd all do well to remember... your travelogue just keeps getting better and better! Thanks for the inspiration


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Mar 2020)

netman said:


> _"One of the greatest things about travelling on a bike is that it can be so easy to simply exist in the moment. I think it's incredibly healthy not to be thinking of the past or the future, just concentrating on making the best of now. It took a while for me to learn that and it's not always easy to stay in the moment, especially after a lifetime of constantly looking forwards or behind."_
> 
> Very nicely said, and something we'd all do well to remember... your travelogue just keeps getting better and better! Thanks for the inspiration


Thank you 😊


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## cwskas (4 Mar 2020)

It would be hard to say which I enjoy more, the pictures or the story. Some really nice pictures in this post. Beautiful skies.


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## CharlesF (4 Mar 2020)

netman said:


> _"One of the greatest things about travelling on a bike is that it can be so easy to simply exist in the moment. I think it's incredibly healthy not to be thinking of the past or the future, just concentrating on making the best of now. It took a while for me to learn that and it's not always easy to stay in the moment, especially after a lifetime of constantly looking forwards or behind."_
> 
> Very nicely said, and something we'd all do well to remember... your travelogue just keeps getting better and better! Thanks for the inspiration



Well said, I completely agree.


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## Vantage (8 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm fairly sure the woman making my coffee was flirting with me which was very nice, but my Spanish quickly failed me which was not so nice!



The language of love knows no boundaries! 
Do a u turn and go back for her!


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## Blue Hills (9 Mar 2020)

Loved your post on the contented couple in the restaurant and the wonderful pic of the carousel in the playground hobbes, but my darkside also calls, so
≥≥≥Some of the churches can have some quite horrific statues!

Any chances of some pics?


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Mar 2020)

Vantage said:


> The language of love knows no boundaries!
> Do a u turn and go back for her!



Wasn't it your good self who was urging me to get my ass in gear in Mazatlán....and now you're urging me to go back?? 
Tough crowd!


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Mar 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Loved your post on the contented couple in the restaurant and the wonderful pic of the carousel in the playground hobbes, but my darkside also calls, so
> ≥≥≥Some of the churches can have some quite horrific statues!
> 
> Any chances of some pics?


Sorry! You"LL have to Google!
I don't feel comfortable taking pictures in churches, especially these ones since they get a lot of use.


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## Vantage (9 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Wasn't it your good self who was urging me to get my ass in gear in Mazatlán....and now you're urging me to go back??
> Tough crowd!



Put her on the trailer! 
Honestly, I have to think of everything!


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Mar 2020)

Vantage said:


> Put her on the trailer!
> Honestly, I have to think of everything!


That's right! Put the woman in the kitchen you sexist!! be


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Mar 2020)

Vantage said:


> Put her on the trailer!
> Honestly, I have to think of everything!


The signs may be indicating that you're on to something!


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Mar 2020)

@Andy in Germany , I recall you asking about climbing vs distance in a thread before and I was relatively blasé as I've never found it too difficult even travelling as heavy as I tend to do.
Well the last couple of weeks have kicked my ass - hard!
I've come to the conclusion that it's the combination of heat & climbing that is so difficult. Whereas before I never really looked at altitude, now it's a big factor. Getting caught with a long climb at the hottest part of the day is no fun! 
Something to consider for Japan.


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## Blue Hills (10 Mar 2020)

Always like a good freecamping pic hobbes and was intrigued by your latest close to a road pitch. I know how invisible you can be close to speeding traffic. Did you take a pic?


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Mar 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Always like a good freecamping pic hobbes and was intrigued by your latest close to a road pitch. I know how invisible you can be close to speeding traffic. Did you take a pic?


Sorry! No pic. 
I literally laid low until it was dark to avoid being spotted by truck drivers. In the morning it was all systems go to get back on the road.


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## Andy in Germany (11 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> @Andy in Germany , I recall you asking about climbing vs distance in a thread before and I was relatively blasé as I've never found it too difficult even travelling as heavy as I tend to do.
> Well the last couple of weeks have kicked my ass - hard!
> I've come to the conclusion that it's the combination of heat & climbing that is so difficult. Whereas before I never really looked at altitude, now it's a big factor. Getting caught with a long climb at the hottest part of the day is no fun!
> Something to consider for Japan.



Thanks for that @HobbesOnTour, it confirms my suspicions. I won't be carrying as much as you but I suspect the climate will be much more humid which will make matters much worse. Will have to think about that...


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## Shadow (11 Mar 2020)

_The campground is small, but lovely, a small community of "snow birds", people from Canada, mostly, avoiding the cold winter. There was one other tent and as luck would have it, an Irish couple (and their dog) in it!_

As a one time resident north of the 49th parallel, I am familiar with snowbirds. I know of one couple who usually drive south to somewhere in the Carolinas or northern florida between january and march each year...to play golf. It suits them! And another couple who used to do the snowbird thing in Florida annually in a posh condo. Now they 'cruise'. Currently they are in the Pacific somewhere, as part of a 4 month trip. They are wealthy. It suits them! And offers a total contrast to your journey. (As an aside, I believe the snowbird tag also applies to folk from northern US).

And what lovely serendipity to come across an Irish couple. Altho' one may find 'Irish' all over the world. At what stage does one no longer be 'Irish'?!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2020)

Shadow said:


> And what lovely serendipity to come across an Irish couple. Altho' one may find 'Irish' all over the world. At what stage does one no longer be 'Irish'?!


Well,it's a very small world these days.
As for your question....I met many, many people in the US who claimed to be Irish (not of Irish descent), although I had the feeling that many would struggle to point out Ireland on a map. On the other hand, some had done some serious research on their ancestors and visited Ireland more than once. The immigration officer back in NJ had visited Ireland 16 times meeting up with family. He only stopped when his own kids came along.
I've been away from Ireland longer than the Irish couple. In fact, I'm coming to the stage where I've lived outside of Ireland longer than I've lived there. I wonder where that leaves me?


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## Vantage (12 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I wonder where that leaves me?



Here. 




I was born in Bolton to Irish parents who then took me home to Ireland till I was 10 years old. Been living in England since then. My parents only left to escape the troubles. My brother and sister were both born in Ireland and to be honest, I'm more Irish then they are!
I still have most of my accent and the folk here often struggle to understand a word I'm saying 
The official line is that the country's laws you are from dictate your nationally but I'd say that if you feel you're Irish in your heart, that's good enough


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## Andy in Germany (12 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've been away from Ireland longer than the Irish couple. In fact, I'm coming to the stage where I've lived outside of Ireland longer than I've lived there. I wonder where that leaves me?



I don't know, but we're in the same place.

Our kids are in an even more interesting position: on the one side they have British ancestry going back into Wales (grandfather) and (Grandmother) Viking/Scottish/possibly Hugenot. On the other they have ancestral ties to one of the oldest Samurai families which used to own Kochi Castle.



Vantage said:


> The official line is that the country's laws you are from dictate your nationally but I'd say that if you feel you're Irish in your heart, that's good enough



Curiously, the boys now have UK/German nationality but they are very clear that they are _not _German, despite being born here and having no plans at all to leave when they're older. Beautiful Daughter has UK/German/Japanese nationality and speaks all three languages fluently. Unless we leave Germany she'll have the choice of UK/German or Japanese nationality at 21.


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## Vantage (12 Mar 2020)

You have to wonder about how far back on the ancestral ties do we go though. 
My family name has origins in Scotland. Further back, the celts are believed to have emigrated from East Europe, some say Transylvania. Even further back, science says humans originated from Africa. 
Were do we draw the line?


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## Andy in Germany (12 Mar 2020)

Vantage said:


> You have to wonder about how far back on the ancestral ties do we go though.
> My family name has origins in Scotland. Further back, the celts are believed to have emigrated from East Europe, some say Transylvania. Even further back, science says humans originated from Africa.
> Were do we draw the line?



Well, the family lived in the castle environs until the UK military booted them out after WW2, so that's fairly recent.

The Celts are an interesting group; there's remains of Celtic culture locally to me here, but their origins could even be in Asia, and in a pleasing symmetry,some of the designs in temples in Japan are nearly identical to designs in Celtic artefacts in Scotland and Ireland.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2020)

I wasn't really questioning my Irishness. I do recall a few years ago considering applying for a Dutch passport (they allow you to have two!) but quickly gave up on that idea when I realised I'd have to surrender my Irish one.

A little bit of history and a bit of travel soon educates us that our current "nationalities" are pretty modern concepts and a lot derived from lines drawn on a map.

From my own area of interest, there are often debates about the origins of whisk(e)y - Ireland or Scotland. Back in the day there was constant, seasonal migration from Northern Ireland to Scotland and vice versa. Our "modern" concept of these two nations don't easily process that. It has to be one or the other.

Then throw in ideas that are propogated for other means and the whole thing gets very, very complicated. 
Again, staying with whiskey, it is commonly thought a significant difference between Irish & Scotch is in the number of distillations (Ireland 3, Scotland 2), or the ingredients used (only barley in Scotland, a mix of grains in Ireland). But that's simply not true, historically, and is often used as a marketing advantage these days. Imagine what cunning political leaders could do manipulating ideas of nationality, nationhood and sovereignty? 

Until relatively recently, Germany as a nation did not exist. There were people who spoke German in lots of independent states, provinces & cities. Today, not all German speakers are German! They are Italians or Belgians or even French!!
And look at Belgium! Split between a Dutch & French side. And that split is real and tangible!

We are what we are by an accident of birth. It's good to know where we came from because that's history and history is very important.


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## Shadow (12 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A little bit of history and a bit of travel soon educates us that our current "nationalities" are pretty modern concepts and a lot derived from lines drawn on a map.


How true!

At some stage, I think you would enjoy _*this*_ book.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2020)

Shadow said:


> How true!
> 
> At some stage, I think you would enjoy _*this*_ book.


Ha!
You're the second person in the space of a week to recommend a Pamir book!
A quick look on Amazon tells me it's not in Kindle format so I'll have to wait.


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## Shadow (12 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Ha!
> You're the second person in the space of a week to recommend a Pamir book!
> A quick look on Amazon tells me it's not in Kindle format so I'll have to wait.


That's why I said 'at some stage'...meaning when you are near english speaking book stores!


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## cwskas (15 Mar 2020)

I wonder about your Morelia is ‘hell on earth for tourists’ comment? But I am loving the photos and narrative as usual.


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Mar 2020)

cwskas said:


> I wonder about your Morelia is ‘hell on earth for tourists’ comment? But I am loving the photos and narrative as usual.


You'll have to remember that irony is a staple of my writing style . I think the next post will clear up any misunderstanding


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## cwskas (18 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> You'll have to remember that irony is a staple of my writing style . I think the next post will clear up any misunderstanding


It did … made me wish I was there.


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## CharlesF (18 Mar 2020)

Having to now work from home, your travels are even more entertaining. I do hope you only a 24 hour lurgy and recover quickly.


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Mar 2020)

I've been laying low the past couple of days. Still not feeling 100% and in no real rush to be moving south.

The situation in Mexico wrt CV seems pretty relaxed, although I believe they are closing schools. Further south the situation is more serious with borders closed to foreigners and some countries on lockdown - Peru has a nightly curfew.

From what I can glean a lot of potential tourists have cancelled trips, others are returning early and some are staying put - literally hunkering down for a month or so.

There is a lot of confusion, it seems.

The biggest risk that I can see is if a lockdown situation kicks in and I can't find a suitable place to stay. Even though I'm out of Europe since September, my passport is European and that is causing problems for other travellers.

In the big scheme of things my issues are tiny and insignificant. There are far more serious situations and many people have a lot of genuine worries. 

Take care of yourselves and each other!


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## Pat "5mph" (22 Mar 2020)

@HobbesOnTour I've been thinking about you.
You might not be able to come back to the Netherlands for a good while, I think most flights to Europe are now grounded.
The important thing to to stay healthy.
Best way to do that is by keeping 2 meters distance from any human being, don't fall off your bike, don't get any non corona virus related illnesses.
Looks like you're going to explore Mexico in depth, your Spanish will be flawless by the time you can return.
Ride safe and keep us updated.
Have you got enough money to keep going for another few months?


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Mar 2020)

Pat "5mph" said:


> @HobbesOnTour I've been thinking about you.
> You might not be able to come back to the Netherlands for a good while, I think most flights to Europe are now grounded.
> The important thing to to stay healthy.
> Best way to do that is by keeping 2 meters distance from any human being, don't fall off your bike, don't get any non corona virus related illnesses.
> ...


Thanks, Pat!

Financially, I had planned to be on the road for another year, at least, so I'm very lucky that I'm not bothered if that is in Mexico or further south.

Believe it or not I actually had a phonecall from the Irish Embassy in Mexico City yesterday! How's that for service! (I'd registered with them when I arrived).

Their advice is simply to go home. 
Mexico is currently the most relaxed of the Central & South American states but that is expected to change. In other places the borders are shut and various curfews are in place, often militarily enforced. The guy warned of the dangers of being stranded with no way out. He also suggested I think about the availability of local support networks - not something I have much of.

He understood that I was on he road long term, unlike many tourists who would need to return by X date.

From a purely selfish point of view I could stay put and wait (and hope) that all this blows over. 
But.... I also have to think of a bigger picture - if I fall ill I'll be adding to the burden of a country's health system at exactly the wrong time. (Not pleasant for me, either). He also told me that he expects turmoil for the next several months.

Also, a foreigner may not be quite as welcome as before. 

The updates from the Australian Embassy are excellent, although each day they add to a sinking feeling. More restrictions on top of restrictions.

Everything is pointing to a premature end to this trip. 
However, if I stop now I know I'll never get the chance again.
Also, home....where exactly is home? Getting a flight back to Europe will probably leave me stranded in whatever country I arrive in! I'm lucky in that I've good friends in several countries that will help out. 

Looking online I've seen other bike tourists, some on the road much longer than me, stopping & going home. 

Various options open to me are:

Hunker down and outlast this as best I can - but what will the conditions be for touring when things open up again?

Pack up, go back to Europe & hunker down over there.

Store bike & gear here until sometime I can return and complete the trip. But when? And again, what will conditions be like?

As the title of my travelogue indicates.... If you want to give the man (or woman) upstairs a laugh - just tell them your plans😀

I know my issues are tiny in the face of all that's going on. I'm bloody lucky to have the dilemma in front of me. I got to set off in my great, big adventure and this is all part of that. Thanks for following along!


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## Blue Hills (22 Mar 2020)

Happy to learn that your plans financially were so longterm hobbes.
Take care whatever you do.
If you do continue i think i'd be inclined to not ride every day.
Be super careful on the roads.
Very impressed by the irish embassy by the way.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Mar 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Happy to learn that your plans financially were so longterm hobbes.
> Take care whatever you do.
> If you do continue i think i'd be inclined to not ride every day.
> Be super careful on the roads.
> Very impressed by the irish embassy by the way.


I've had a few dealings with Irish Embassies over the years and have found them to be unfailingly excellent and highly professional. Oftentimes they have to deal with some of the worst situations and I have always found them to be empathic and extremely helpful. It's the main reason that I place such a heavy weight on their advice.


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## Pat "5mph" (22 Mar 2020)

@HobbesOnTour I feel relative safety at the moment is being isolated as much as you can.
You're in the ideal position to do that.
I think (purely from my position here, of course) that you should stay in Mexico, try to find a friendly, remote village where you can weather this out.
Ok, you could get sick, but it's the same here, we are really just hoping for the best, taking precautions, there's no guarantee of success lol
Depending on how the situation develops, you can, in a couple of months decide if to carry on touring or heading back to Europe.
Practice your Spanish a lot, a good grasp of the language will help immensely whatever comes next.
When the pandemic is over, I'll come visit you in the Netherlands or in Ireland, with my bike


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## Blue Hills (22 Mar 2020)

Your last line pat.
A bit of applied psychology to send him fleeing to the mexican hills?


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Mar 2020)

Pat "5mph" said:


> @HobbesOnTour I feel relative safety at the moment is being isolated as much as you can.
> You're in the ideal position to do that.
> I think (purely from my position here, of course) that you should stay in Mexico, try to find a friendly, remote village where you can weather this out.
> Ok, you could get sick, but it's the same here, we are really just hoping for the best, taking precautions, there's no guarantee of success lol
> ...


I'll look forward to the visit!! 😀

That's my first instinct too, to hunker down and wait it out. My current location is perfect for that and I am sorely tempted.

However, taking a longer term perspective, even if the spread of the virus stopped tomorrow there are a lot of issues to work their way downstream, so to speak. It will be a while before a lot of services I depend on (campsites, small hotels, restaurants, shops etc.) will be back to normal. 
There is also a multitude of countries on my route and thus far there is little coordination between them. I just read of a group of cyclists being rounded up in northern Columbia and being quarantined indefinitely by the army. Questions answered with a gun! Decisions are made on passports carried, not length of time in the region. 
A resurgence of the virus in the winter, for example, could leave me stuck in a nasty situation.
As on another thread here, the reactions of locals to outsiders is becoming uncomfortable, to say the least - and that's in the UK.
On a Facebook forum another poster alluded to the security situation and the risk that exposes foreigners to. 

I've just asked my (wonderful) AirBnB hosts about the possibility of storing my bike here, indefinitely, and am waiting on an answer. If positive, I think I will book a ticket to Europe and sit it out over there, returning when it is sensible to do so.

I'm gutted at the prospect of stopping, but I have had such a wonderful time so far, with amazing hospitality it would be a shame to risk it all by overstaying my welcome.


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## Vantage (22 Mar 2020)

I'd love to get hold of whoever started this effing virus and kick the living **** out of them.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Mar 2020)

Vantage said:


> I'd love to get hold of whoever started this effing virus and kick the living **** out of them.


You know, on the one hand I agree with you, on the other hand humanity has been given a great opportunity to look at itself, decide what it likes and doesn't about itself and make some changes. There may be some positives out of all this and at the end of the day a bike tour is neither here nor there.

But go with your Dad whenever you do get the chance! I, for one will be very jealous!


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## Vantage (22 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> You know, on the one hand I agree with you, on the other hand humanity has been given a great opportunity to look at itself, decide what it likes and doesn't about itself and make some changes. There may be some positives out of all this and at the end of the day a bike tour is neither here nor there.



I do like your optimism but I fear it won't work out that way.
The human race has proven itself time and time again to be the most stupid, wreckless, greedy and downright nasty species on the face of this planet and from my observations over how it's behaved over this bug, is only set to lower itself into the sewer even further.
But hey, it's been a nice sunny day so there's hope! 



> But go with your Dad whenever you do get the chance! I, for one will be very jealous!



I hope to!
He's on a 2 week break that he'd booked way before all hell broke lose and decided the other night to retire right now. No point in returning to work just for 3 more months. So he's got more time to train!


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## cwskas (22 Mar 2020)

Maybe this will help ...


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## cwskas (22 Mar 2020)

Quite impressive ... and that is only the Mexico part.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Mar 2020)

cwskas said:


> Maybe this will help ...
> 
> View attachment 509809


I've a stalker!! 😀😀


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## Milkfloat (24 Mar 2020)

@HobbesOnTour Have you considered a plan to cut short your wonderful tour? People are actively being told to return to their home countries and the door is closing as to when that will be possible. A colleague who lives in the Netherlands just took 6 days to get home from South America. He was on a cruise around the Arctic Circle and got bounced around from country to country trying to negotiate his way back and avoid quarantine at every hop. He got pretty lucky as we have very good local contacts in each country/city he hopped through so we could help him. His main saving grace was that the ships captain when they docked in Argentina was able to claim that the ship was in fact Argentinian and therefore the passengers had already been in 2 weeks quarantine before they docked. Although you seem to be having a wonderful time, I would hate to see you stranded in a country where accommodation is fully closed and you have no way to get out.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2020)

@Pat "5mph"
Sorry....I've some bad news.....
You'll have to postpone that visit for the time being
I've decided to stay put and see this thing out for as long as I can.

I was ready to go back to Europe (I don't know where home is anymore😊) and had flights ready to book, but I just couldn't pull the trigger.

I'm not ready to give up, just yet, and it would have been giving up.

As I've alluded to already in the travelogue, I've checked off all the things I wanted to do and the rest of my trip is about the journey - not the destination. If I never make it to "El fin del Mundo" I won't be too bothered, but if I don't make the most of this trip then I know myself and I know I will be bothered - for a long time. If staying put and looking at mountains every day is a part of my journey I can think of many worse things to be looking at.

It's become popular for some folk to jump down the necks of others in this current climate, so I'll head some of that off by saying I'll be living as a hermit and socially isolating myself so far as possible. I've discussed all this with my hosts and we are confident that we can help each other to come through this.

When I informed the Irish Embassy of my decision to stay I had a call from an employee asking if I could take a call from the Ambassador, themselves! I took it expecting to receive a bollocking, but the lady was charming, understanding and very helpful! I am so glad to carry an Irish passport!

I understand that I will shortly be "locked in" and unable to leave for an unknown period of time. My way of looking at it is that I was expecting to be on the road for another year, at least, so I can manage a few months of lockdown. Perhaps longer.

Whether I continue on when this clears up is a decision for another day. I can foresee many potential problems in certain countries further down the road. I'll cross those bridges when I encounter them.

From a practical point of view my biggest challenge will be the weather & seasons. Again, that's for later.

This was by no means an easy decision to make. Chatting to my Godson the other day he asked me when I was "stopping cycling & coming home?" That almost floored me - until I realised he just wanted someone to help with his Lego 😀 The first 24 hours after I had made it was tough, knowing that escape options were reducing by the hour. Today is better 😀

I have one more day to write up on the Travelogue but I'll check in here every now & then. If anyone has any questions, just fire away!

Look after yourselves & everyone else and as The Boss would say "See you further on up the road!"

My view 😀


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2020)

Vantage said:


> I hope to!
> He's on a 2 week break that he'd booked way before all hell broke lose and decided the other night to retire right now. No point in returning to work just for 3 more months. So he's got more time to train!


I like his style!!


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2020)

cwskas said:


> Quite impressive ... and that is only the Mexico part.


You'll have to tell me how you did that!


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## Pat "5mph" (25 Mar 2020)

@HobbesOnTour I'm glad you're staying.
I really think you're safer from the virus where you are.
We are all "locked" here, I don't think I could have visited you anywhere in Europe for the next foreseeable 
Keep uploading if you can, ride safe


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## Rickshaw Phil (26 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> @Pat "5mph"
> Sorry....I've some bad news.....
> You'll have to postpone that visit for the time being
> I've decided to stay put and see this thing out for as long as I can.
> ...


Good luck and keep us posted on how you're getting on.


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## netman (26 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> @Pat "5mph"
> Sorry....I've some bad news.....
> You'll have to postpone that visit for the time being
> I've decided to stay put and see this thing out for as long as I can.
> ...


Personally, I applaud your decision and think I would do the same in the circumstances. Best of luck and we'll miss your tales from the road - until they start again...


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Mar 2020)

netman said:


> Personally, I applaud your decision and think I would do the same in the circumstances. Best of luck and we'll miss your tales from the road - until they start again...


Thank you!
Don't worry, I'll be getting back on the road as soon as I can!


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## Shadow (26 Mar 2020)

My very, very, very best wishes to you and your continued journey, wherever that may take you.
Take great care, stay safe, ride on.
And, as others have said, please let us know, when you are able, to keep in touch here.


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Mar 2020)

Shadow said:


> My very, very, very best wishes to you and your continued journey, wherever that may take you.
> Take great care, stay safe, ride on.
> And, as others have said, please let us know, when you are able, to keep in touch here.


Thank you, @Shadow .
Don't worry, I've become quite good at looking after myself - better late than never! 
My internet connectivity is good here so I won't be disappearing of the face of the earth anytime soon!


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## CharlesF (30 Mar 2020)

For what it’s worth, I think you have made the right decision; and it sounds as if the Irish Embassy is there in need.
Good luck, and keep well.


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## Andy in Germany (30 Mar 2020)

Agreed with the above posters: after reading your thoughts I can see why, and I think it is the mos sensible thing to do under the circumstances. The Irish Embassy sound very pragmatic as well. 

I hope you'll still post the odd picture so know you're okay...


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Mar 2020)

Oh my, I love the last picture in your last travelog post!
I feel like I want to cry, don't know why, such a positive post - must be my hormones 
Stay safe out there! xxx


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## cwskas (30 Mar 2020)

Love your last picture. where Did you shoot that?


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2020)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Oh my, I love the last picture in your last travelog post!
> I feel like I want to cry, don't know why, such a positive post - must be my hormones
> Stay safe out there! xxx


Ah Jayzus @Pat "5mph" ! Careful now or you'll set me off! 😀

@cwskas I took that photo in 2018 on a round trip from NL to Ireland. My best guess at location is sometime after York on the way to Hull.....

@Andy in Germany , @netman put an idea in my head a few days ago.... Watch this space 😉


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## Milkfloat (30 Mar 2020)

I did not realise that you were essentially homeless, so I have now changed my mind and think you are being pretty smart. If things get really hairy then I have very good contacts in Leon, admittedly 250km away, who would be more than happy to help. They work closely with the government so they have an inside line on things and can probably pull a few strings.


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2020)

Milkfloat said:


> I did not realise that you were essentially homeless, so I have now changed my mind and think you are being pretty smart. If things get really hairy then I have very good contacts in Leon, admittedly 250km away, who would be more than happy to help. They work closely with the government so they have an inside line on things and can probably pull a few strings.


Wow! That's very generous, thank you. I will definitely hold that in reserve because there is no way of knowing how this will turn out.

Homeless has such negative connotations, I prefer to think of myself as house hunting - just in a very large area! 

My sincere thanks again.


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## Milkfloat (30 Mar 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Wow! That's very generous, thank you. I will definitely hold that in reserve because there is no way of knowing how this will turn out.
> 
> Homeless has such negative connotations, I prefer to think of myself as house hunting - just in a very large area!
> 
> My sincere thanks again.


Not a problem, I once got marooned by Hurricane Katrina so I know how much having even a little bit of support means. I guess one good thing is that house prices will probably fall whilst you are away so you might be in a good position when you finish your tour. Stay safe and try to enjoy your enforced rest.


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2020)

The A-Z of an American Bike Tour

I started putting this together on the road in the States and have just completed it. It's just a collection of some of my observations from the road, some not mentioned in the Travelogue.

It's not intended to be gospel, and yes, I'm fully aware that I only biked in a tiny percentage of the country

Apologies to any of my American readers who may not like some of my observations. One of the most charming places I've ever visited on a bike is Vienna, yet I recall reading a journal on CGOAB of a guy who HATED the place! We're all different, but hopefully can disagree without falling out.

I'd recommend a bike tour in the US once you've considered two conditions; Safety (traffic & dogs) and expense (it is not cheap).

I'd certainly not recommend it to an inexperienced cyclist and driver. (The ACA specifically say on their maps that driving experience is essential and I agree if only to understand what a car driver sees).

Of course, local knowledge can mitigate my argument - so get an American friend!

*One of my favourite photos, taken in South Carolina*







A is for alcohol.
I've never quite understood the American attitude to alcohol. It's weirdly puritanical, messed up and impacts on cycling in the following ways:
Drunk driving is a part of life in many places. I well remember the time (in Ireland) when a drink driver could boast about his exploits and brag about avoiding checkpoints. America seems to be stuck in that stage.

Broken glass: Former beer & whiskey bottles are waiting to get you!

Litter: Cans, boxes and these new alu bottles are found everywhere polluting an otherwise beautiful place.

With the honourable exception of Tennessee the State Parks banned alcohol. Sometimes there is very little better than a cold beer at the end of a long day, or a bottle of vino tinto on a lazy day.





B is for "be safe". I have found it very strange and not a little disturbing that nearly everyone I have encountered has said this to me, normally accompanied by a depiction of U.S. drivers as lethal morons. "Have a great trip", would be expected but the final words are always an indication of impending doom.

C is for Check ins
I think I can safely say that US campgrounds are the most complicated to check in that I have ever experienced. The information required (name, address, telephone) are complicated for the foreigner because often our details won't "fit" the computer system and we have no official ID with an address. It can be a laborious process.

On top of that, when available, there is often a choice to be made as to which particular site. That's kind of difficult without looking at a map. No more than twice was I told I could choose one when I got there (but I'd have to return, several kms) to tell them which one - even if I was the only tent camper!) Certainly the State Parks were the most bureaucratic, followed by the KOA chain. The independents tended to be more casual.

Even when the campground allowed for a late check in the process was laborious and not helped by a lack of pens or pencils on at least one occasion. To put it simply, reservations are the way to go. To do it properly, you'd need to set up accounts with each State (for their parks), the Federal system, the Army Corps of Engineers before you arrived, then hope your internet connection existed when you wanted to make your reservation. For someone used to rolling up to campsites and doing things on the fly it was a bit of an adjustment. Having said all that, some of the campgrounds were simply fantastic!






D is for Distracted Drivers - they are everywhere. It seems like everyone is on their phone, not talking but browsing. Sometimes, pulled in at the side of the road I can see this in action. Even in urban areas the phone use is scary. It's not so much the talking on the phone that is the issue (most cars are automatic and can be driven one handed), it's the browsing that is really scary. Watching people pull away at junctions while looking at their phone rather than what's around them is astounding. The most flummoxing experience I had was in a Lyft (cab) in Austin. The driver was telling me how crazy I was to cycle in America while holding his phone & trying to navigate by it. I know Americans aren't famed for their grasp of irony, but I thought this was a bit extreme!

E is for Eejits!
Treat every single person on the road as one is generally good advice. Doubly so in America!!

F is for flags. They sure love their flags in these parts! Sometimes, on the edge of town where the car dealers live it's like a contest to see who's got the biggest flag.
Houses too, are regularly flying the Stars and Stripes. My understanding is that these often are a sign of support for the service men and women. Sometimes one flag just isn't enough. One house I cycled past had so many flags I lost count at 14.

Of course, there's also the Confederate flag flying, but not in significant quantities. In fact they are so rarely flown that I couldn't help but think that a statement was being made when they were flown. One house in North Carolina was covered in Confederate flags that I was pretty sure was a statement. I wanted to take a photo, but there were also signs advocating the Second Amendment as well as numerous No Trespassing signs so I didn't feel particularly comfortable.

*These types of roads thrilled me!*





G is for Gravel. There's two contexts to this. The first is the gravel that accumulates on the side of the road and at intersections. For a cyclist it can be quite tricky, if not downright dangerous. Junctions, slip roads, laybys all require serious attention.

The second is the use of gravel as a pitch for tents. I really dislike it. It gets everywhere, where the tent poles are joined together, onto the fly itself as well as the inner. It is a very fine gravel so isn't particularly uncomfortable to lie on, but I can't see it doing very much for the longevity of tents.

I understand that it is useful for drainage, is cleaner than just earth, but I really miss my grass pitches!

H can only be for HellHounds!
I've never come across anything like it! The most memorable accounts are covered in the travelogue so I won't rehash that here. For anyone considering doing similar to my route be prepared for dogs. It is that simple. What amazed me most was how it had such a negative effect on me. I believe it was the accumulation of anxiety that pushed me past the point of tolerance. Thankfully, a break in Nashville allowed the anxiety to drop off.

I is for Immense. That's the one word that keeps coming to mind as I wander through this land. There is a scale here that is simply not matched by anything I've seen in Europe.

It might be the size of the drinks in fast food places or convenience stores, it might be the size of the typical "family car" or pick up (the top of the bonnet is in line with my shoulders!), It might be the sound made by that same pickup (louder than an 18 wheel truck). It could be the RV that passes you on the road, towing a full sized SUV behind it. The RV is already bigger than the bus that brought my rugby team to matches and when stopped, panels will open out to make it even wider! It could be the size of a forest (just take out a map and look at the size of some of these places!). One hungry day it was a roadside sign advertising a restaurant in "Only 16 miles"!

All that is before I mention the roads! My first encounter with long, very long, straight roads occurred in North Carolina and flummoxed me - I just wasn't expecting them there. However, I came to really enjoy them, especially when the roads were quiet. Such a different riding experience really emphasised to me that I was in a totally different place. I have many, many photos of these roads stretching away in front of me that I know will thrill me and excite me when I'm far too old to consider riding them.





J is for Junk.
It might be a stereotype of white trash of old cars rusting beside a trailer, but there sure are a lot of old cars rusting around people's homes. One had a full grown tree that had wandered through the engine bay. Sometimes it's one or two, but other times it can be up to twenty. It seems land plots are quite large and some people have a fair swing at filling their property.

In true Texas style, one house had the remains of two small planes sitting outside! Everything is bigger in Texas!

K is for The King. I really enjoyed my visit to Elvis' home in Tupelo. I'd highly recommend it as a simple, dignified tribute.

L is for Litter that is, unfortunately, everywhere. It's not unusual to see the contents of a room or even a small house dumped beside the road. The amount of empty beer bottles and cans alongside the roads is not just ugly but very disturbing. One day in South Carolina on quiet roads I passed a blue Bud Light bottle approximately every 2 km. It's easy to believe that someone was chugging bottle after bottle and discarding them along the road. One of the scenes that struck me most was back in the Alligator River National Park; A beautiful two lane road, woods on one side, swamp on the other, hardly any traffic yet someone had dropped a fast food drink container on the road. Fines for littering vary from $2000 to $3000 depending on the state, but they don't seem to have any effect.

M is for Mirror. Quite simply, I'd advise anyone considering cycling in this part of the world to use a mirror.

N is for navigation and I have found cycle.travel to be a fantastic route planner, even over here, in the States.

Of course, my preferred route may not be yours, but for touring it is excellent at picking out the quieter options. I remember especially, arriving into Nashville and trying to make my way North. Komoot wanted me dead! Cycle.travel saved my ass that day!

Some things to be aware of though;
I was directed through "gated" communities. When a gate was closed I had to figure out my own way around it. This is an issue with the underlying map info, not a cycle.travel issue.

Locating an actual address can be difficult. It's good at finding the road, not so good sometimes at finding a number on that road. A road in the U.S. can be miles and miles long. So navigation to a number is important as opposed to just a road.

In towns and cities it will default to taking you around the edges or bypassing altogether. This can mean perhaps a tour of the poorer parts of town or missing chances to resupply.

It also has a tendency to route off main roads, even for a short distance. When that means crossing two or four lanes of traffic to cycle a secondary road for 2km before rejoining the main road (and crossing those lanes again) it may be better to ignore the option.

Here in the U.S. I came across several bike trails, mixed use paths that were time limited - for example can be used only in daylight. Cycle.travel (nor any other service) will not tell you that.

Unfortunately, its campground search function doesn't work usefully in the U.S. A very handy tool in Europe, though.

As with any route planner use your common sense!

*Harvesting cotton was a big thrill!*





O: Original thought:
Cycling in the U.S. is the first time I've had a serious debate with myself over the supremacy of cycling alone or as part of a duo (or more) due to safety concerns.
I was mightily relieved many times that I was solo.

For example, two (or more) cycling close together (even in single file) could be a big issue on busy roads. I'd hate to be the second cyclist and witness some of the close passes happening to my forward partner. Similarly, I'd feel compelled to constantly check on my partner in the rear on some of those roads. Not a nice feeling.

With dogs, the first cyclist just wakes the mutts up so they are ready for number two!

Imagine cycling with your husband, wife, son or daughter and seeing some idiot deliberately make a close pass at them. Or imagine pulling into a store to wait for your riding buddy who gets delayed for some harmless reason. It would be very easy to imagine the worst.

There are pros and cons of going solo or not, but my time in the U.S. is the first time that safety was a consideration.

P is for Porches. It might be a stereotype but people really do sit on their porches in rocking chairs and watch the world go by. That was obvious from day one in Virginia. As I got closer to Nashville there were less people, but then again it was cold, mind you, there were lots of rocking chairs on lots of porches, or in some cases, swings. I have to say I was charmed by the sight.

The other use of a porch is for storage; Many porches are full of what seems to be junk. I've no idea how some people even get in their front door there is so much stuff stored on the porch!

Q is for sQuirrels! They are everywhere! Within ten minutes of rolling out of the port in Norfolk, squirrels have been an almost constant companion on this trip. They seem to thrive in suburbia where houses are built on big plots of land and trees are everywhere and they run riot in the wilder areas.

They are quite used to humans and display a reasonable cautiousness, but they can be great fun to observe. Many's the time I've stopped just to watch them chasing each other. Their climbing and leaping skills are really extraordinary.

They like to investigate around my tent at night (at least I hope it's squirrels!) and can make a surprising amount of noise when running through the fallen leaves on the ground.

So far, they haven't bothered me - I have heard of them ripping tents and bags to get to food.





R is for Roadkill - it is everywhere! I haven't commented in the actual blog posts but I am genuinely surprised at the volume and range. I've seen everything from snakes (young and old), raccoons, armadillos, squirrels and many, many deer as well as an alligator. The deer in particular are surprising, left to decompose on the side of the road. On bridges, especially in North Carolina there were many birds. I'm guessing they were hit by trucks after getting buffeted by strong crosswinds.

From Louisiana onwards the smell became an issue - I'm thinking something to do with humidity? Sometimes the smell of death was so strong, so dense and so heavy it was like I could taste it on my tongue.

S is for Shoulders. From my very limited exposure to American roads I have learned that shoulders are a vital factor in being able to relax and enjoy a ride. A busy road without a shoulder is not pleasant. However, the presence of a shoulder is not everything. The width is important, the presence of a rumble strip can seriously reduce the width or a drop on the outside can be hairy. Then, of course, there's the crap in the shoulder; I've seen everything from clothing, including one brand new runner, various nuts, bolts and pieces of engines to tyres, mudguards, mudflaps, buckles and straps for tying down loads. Not to mention all the blown out tyres and all the tiny, puncture making wires contained in them. It does make me wonder just where all this stuff is coming from and just how safe are some of the big loads whizzing past me.

I came across the largest pair of men's boxers that I've ever seen beside the tiniest thong I would have thought possible. Disturbing thoughts had for a while after that!

T is for Texas!
I had a T for Trump section written, but feck it, Texas was wonderful! I've wanted to go for so long, have read about it, listened to the music - and it did not disappoint! In fact, it was far superior to my expectations in one significant aspect - the riding was great. Yes, the speed limits are crazy fast but I rarely recall having a bad day with the exception of the late, wet run into New Braunfels.





To see some of my musical heroes was just fantastic! If I lived there I'd be going to gigs all the time!

There is huge satisfaction to be had by finally riding to and through a place you've always wanted to go!





U is for Underclass
There's an underclass in America, clear as day, in every town I visited. In the bigger cities there's no shortage of homeless.

It's evident in the poor houses and the trailer parks. There'd be times I'd be cycling past what appeared to be a ruin only to see laundry hanging out the back or someone moving around inside. Texas, perhaps, was an exception as it seemed wealthier, although Austin & San Antonio had lots of rough sleepers. The rural parts of the Carolinas, Louisiana and Mississippi were probably the most extreme examples.

Vigilance
I'd recommend a high degree of vigilance before and during a tour of the U.S.
Beforehand, a good researching of routes and accommodation options can help unless you're capable & comfortable with adjusting things on the fly. For example, I bought the ACA maps but did no further research on them. Hitting Highway 17 was a shock to the system!

On the trip itself, vigilance is required on the road at (almost) all times. There's not only traffic, but road surfaces, debris, suddenly disappearing shoulders, critters and the weather! I had no reason to fear for my safety from a criminal element (with the possible exception of the gun toting racist in Mississippi) although the thought was never far from my mind. It's amazing how, if you keep your eyes open, you'll nearly always pick up a positive sign from someone just as your fears are starting to overwhelm.

W is for weather.
In this part of the world weather can kill. It's as simple as that. There's such an immensity to the landscape that weather can be just as immense. Depending on where you are you may be hours riding from civilisation.

Since I've left America, Nashville has been hit by tornadoes, lightning & storms have killed people in Alabama, Mississippi and Louisiana. Not meaning to frighten anyone, but there are risks from weather, especially those who may be camping off the grid. Couple that with a lack of internet connectivity and we need to have our wits about us!





X is for X choice. It really is phenomenal just how many choices there are here, especially when it comes to food! On asking for (what I thought was) a simple breakfast sandwich I had fourTEEN choices of bread/toast/bagels/biscuits with which to make the sandwich. Stumped and unable to make a choice I asked for whatever was best or the server's favourite. More confusion!

The outskirts of towns are filled with multiple fast food outlets - McDonalds, KFC, Arby's, Burger King, Taco Bell, Domino's. Just hop in a car and make your choice.

Y: Yanks! What else could it be?
Is it fair to generalise a whole nation? Probably not. Especially not in the case of the U.S. Texas is different to South Carolina. Even Charleston is different to the rural parts of South Carolina.

I will make some general observations, though. Americans are very polite in the main. Regular people referred to me as "Sir". It can be quite ostentatious in the South, perhaps less sincere in the North. (Yes, I know I wasn't really North!)

They are also genuinely friendly, once the ice has been broken. Breaking the ice can be difficult for a reason that I picked up on fairly early and was present during my whole trip - There is a strong sense of fear in the US at the moment. Fear of change and anything different. Fear of the future. More than once I was asked about the "Muslim" problem in Europe. What they had heard did not match the reality as I know it.

Rereading that paragraph, I'm being a tad unfair. Texas was more relaxed in this regard.

Being Irish was a tremendous advantage.

There's also a shock at my apparent lack of fear (I do get scared!). Perhaps traffic, perhaps all the "bad people" out there, definitely Mexico & places south. That fear was palpable.

The number of times I was asked if I was armed was staggering. Some police officers I chatted to were stunned by the idea that regular Guards (Police) in Ireland were unarmed. They could not see the value in what I think is called "Policing by consent". I'm reminded of the elderly couple I saw pulled over by the Police in Texas. She crying, he sitting helpless in a wheelchair and the contents of their SUV being searched in a seemingly aggressive way.
I'm also reminded of my encounter with the ranger in the State Park in Texas and the aggressive way he approached me. It required effort to stay calm. No doubt fear played a part in the method he chose to deal with the situation. I've had encounters with Police in most countries and even when I've done something wrong (nothing criminal, just silly!) the approach is totally different. (I've managed to fall off my bike, drunk as a lord, in front of Police cars in at least two countries! The issue was to get me home safe - I don't think that would be the case in the U.S. - I wasn't willing to try!)

For all the hospitality and friendliness there were enough incidents of outright hostility to this guy on a bike to make me concerned. I am not used to witnessing such hostility and I found it surprising and disturbing, yet almost accepted by most people I mentioned it to.

For all the bravado associated with Americans about America I was left with the idea that there's a huge amount of insecurity about America, in America, that there's a fear that it is under some kind of attack.

I'm not surprised there's an obesity crisis in the States. In smaller places it's an hour's drive (or more) to buy fresh food. I found fresh food to be expensive. When there are cheap (and admittedly tasty) fast food options in the local petrol station it's an easy choice to make.

My night at the church in Texas was wonderful, but sobering. The constant efforts of all the churches to feed people in a wealthy state in a wealthy country left a deep impression on me.

Zzzzzzzzzz…...bored?

Hop on your bike! Go for an adventure! And America is full of adventure!!

I loved my trip through "my" piece of America. I said it before that I was really glad I wasn't just riding from A to B. Having places I really wanted to visit was a big positive when faced with busy roads and aggressive dogs.

By the way, there won't be one of these on Mexico. Mexico has bewildered, bemused and charmed me in ways unimaginable a few months ago and in such a manner that mere words could never do it justice. I loved America, but it seems like Mexico has swallowed me up in a warm hug. It would be inappropriate to write about such an intimate relationship😊


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## Vantage (31 Mar 2020)

Well Mr Hobbes, having read your latest addition to what must be one of, if not the best bike touring journal I've read, I am in awe of your dedication to this tour. Selling your house? Wow, yours must be made from pure iron and clang! 
Nice to know the Irish embassy are looking after their own 😊
I'm sure things will be quiet for a while but looking forward to reading more of your escapades, especially when this arse of a bug effs off or at least becomes less of a threat and you and that ugly Irish bloke who's carting you about get back to touring. We all know you're the same Mr Hobbes that vanished and that you actually visited a health and beauty spa! It did wonders.


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## Shadow (31 Mar 2020)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Oh my, I love the last picture in your last travelog post!





cwskas said:


> Love your last picture.


Seems I'm a couple of days behind everyone else. Just read your latest post of the travelog and this was my _immediate_ thought too!


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## cwskas (2 Apr 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> ... I prefer to think of myself as house hunting - just in a very large area!



 Love it!


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## Shadow (3 Apr 2020)

Do not know which is your beverage of choice when you need a cold one but this just to let you know that the Mexican government has announced that beer is non-essential product and so Corona lager production is being wound down in the 11 breweries in the country. There is a slim possibility production could be re-started if it is deemed to be an agricultural business.
Sales have unsurprisingly fallen dramatically partly due to its unfortunate name.


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## h00chm0nster (3 Apr 2020)

Take care, be safe, read, don’t eat too much or you’ll need a bigger bike when this is over , learn Spanish, keep writing, and we’ll see eachother on the other side!
Sorry for the drama, haha. But genuinely relieved you’re in a good place and I think you made a good decision.


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Apr 2020)

Shadow said:


> Do not know which is your beverage of choice when you need a cold one but this just to let you know that the Mexican government has announced that beer is non-essential product and so Corona lager production is being wound down in the 11 breweries in the country. There is a slim possibility production could be re-started if it is deemed to be an agricultural business.
> Sales have unsurprisingly fallen dramatically partly due to its unfortunate name.


Beer is pretty low down on my list of priorities at the moment 😀,. But I'm not surprised sales are falling for Corona - sometimes I wonder about people's intelligence!

As for closing the breweries, that is interesting and news to me. 40% of Mexicans live in poverty. A European style lockdown faces many, many challenges here due to this poverty. People do not have the money to stock up, nor do many have any option to just stay home from work. I've mentioned the micro-economy that I have seen in action, especially the food operations. These will be decimated and the government does not have the resources to bail everyone out. 
In a similar vein access to clean and safe water is an issue. Water deliveries will have to continue, again affecting the effectiveness of any lockdown/social distancing.

Keeping the breweries open might relieve the pressure! 😀


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Apr 2020)

Thanks to @netman who put this idea in my head.....

I've started another bloody Travelogue here https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/travels-with-hobbes-the-velodyssey.259190/

Turns out I kind of miss the writing and I definitely miss the cycling!


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## netman (3 Apr 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Thanks to @netman who put this idea in my head.....
> 
> I've started another bloody Travelogue here https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/travels-with-hobbes-the-velodyssey.259190/
> 
> Turns out I kind of miss the writing and I definitely miss the cycling!



And we miss the reading! So yay! More inspiration - which I desperately need right now... so thank you @HobbesOnTour


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Apr 2020)

netman said:


> And we miss the reading! So yay! More inspiration - which I desperately need right now... so thank you @HobbesOnTour


Thank you very much 😊


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## theloafer (4 Apr 2020)

going to miss your update s ..stay safe


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Apr 2020)

The weekend just gone by was tough.

Saturday morning started with a tweet (I've just joined Twitter) from the Irish Embassy stating that the Government were closing hotels and hostels and that I should "go home".

This was followed up with an email with the same advice/instruction.

Since this is not exactly my situation it left me concerned - for my hosts as well as myself. The last thing I want is to get them in trouble.

It reopened the whole "should I stay or should I go" debate, not something I am taking lightly. 

What I really needed to know is if the Mexican Government are kicking all foreigners out. This is not something that I have seen explicitly anywhere else. Many countries have closed hotels etc. and made it extremely difficult for foreigners to stay, but none I've seen have kicked any out.

A personal reply to that question came an hour or two later. On a Saturday! The Embassy folk are working hard! 

In the meantime I had a chat with my hosts and am blown away by their commitment to a stranger. 

By Monday evening I'd spoken with the Embassy again and reassured somewhat and my hosts had spoken to the head of tourism for the State. They were told that - wait for it - their responsibility was to my good health and that my leaving at this time would be too risky!!

It took me a while to process that since it was not the response I was expecting. 

When it comes to Mexico I find mere words are not enough to describe the place. I can't begin to describe just how lucky I am to be here at this time.

My hosts have their own problems. They've taken their business offline, have staff they worry about and I have some company - a mother/mother-in-law who has been confined to a wheelchair for 30 years and two nephews, here to wait out the lockdown. The older lady is a delight, feisty and full of spirit! The two young lads were a little shy but one needs help with his English and the other wants me to shoot penalties at him! And they brought a puppy so now I have two dogs to play with!

The title of my travelogue refers to the fragility of plans - a reference, I thought, to the difficulty in getting this trip off the ground. Ha! How naïve was I?? 

Sunday, for personal reasons, was a significant day for me. I had often wondered where I would be and what road I'd be riding. My Dad died on that date and for years I've taken a little time to remember him as best I can. It may sound silly, but I'd been looking forward to riding with him in Mexico on that day. But, as is the way with plans……

Still, when I look at where I am and the situation I'm in it sure seems like someone is looking out for me!


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## Shadow (7 Apr 2020)

Good news.
Continued good wishes to you and your amazingly wonderful hosts.


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## Blue Hills (7 Apr 2020)

forgive me hobbes - am sure it's in one of your posts - where do you know these wonderful hosts from?

and more congrats to the irish embassy - you are lucky - have long had the impression that Brits aren't too on the ball/well resoursed when btits are in potential pickles abroad.


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Apr 2020)

I didn't know them at all. I simply looked for a small Airbnb in a small village where I could see availability for a few weeks....
Then I landed on my feet!


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## jay clock (4 May 2020)

Just wanted to say thanks and wish you all the best @HobbesOnTour - I am an avid cycle tourist and stuck at home with mild CV19 I have literally just spent 9-5 today reading your trip in full detail. Look after yourself!


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## HobbesOnTour (4 May 2020)

jay clock said:


> Just wanted to say thanks and wish you all the best @HobbesOnTour - I am an avid cycle tourist and stuck at home with mild CV19 I have literally just spent 9-5 today reading your trip in full detail. Look after yourself!


That's praise indeed! I've read some of your blogs too! 

Take care of yourself. 

I've been struggling this morning to write up the last day of my Camino travelogue - I just don't want it to end! 

None of us can tell when we'll be able to have adventures on our bikes again and the world is full of bad and scary news reports. The real irony is that travelling on a bike just reinforces what a good, friendly and fantastic place the world really is!

I can't wait until we're all able to get back out into it!

Be well!


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## HobbesOnTour (15 May 2020)

We may have found Hobbes!!!


View: https://youtu.be/ePrttjfsIMg


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## CharlesF (29 May 2020)

@HobbesOnTour . How are you getting on, all well I hope?

I thought of you as we’re watching a Rick Stein in Mexico episode. His food, description and pictures, is making my mouth water and we have just finished a great pasta dinner!


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## HobbesOnTour (30 May 2020)

CharlesF said:


> @HobbesOnTour . How are you getting on, all well I hope?
> 
> I thought of you as we’re watching a Rick Stein in Mexico episode. His food, description and pictures, is making my mouth water and we have just finished a great pasta dinner!


Well, @CharlesF if you were trying to drag me down by mentioning food you've certainly succeeded! 
Between you and the bakery addict @IaninSheffield I'm hovering on the brink of a food depression! 

To be honest, it's been a bit like being on a roller coaster the last couple of months - a glacial rollercoaster - sometimes up, sometimes down and sometimes hanging upside down  just in very slow motion!

I have left the grounds three times until today, each time to go to a supermarket in the city. Tomorrow, I'm going to out on the bike for a while. There is wonderful country around here and I can't stay doing nothing.

My concern up till now has been to avoid bringing any hassle to the doorstep of my hosts but we've had a chat and all seems good.

Things in Mexico are not good. In fact the WHO is saying that the Americas are now the epicentre of the outbreak. It's not the worst hit, yet, but they're starting to open up despite the fact that the scale of the problem is underreported. 

Guatemala is horrific. They were so overwhelmed that bodies were being placed on the street and left for days. 
In Peru crowds tried to leave Lima to return to their rural homes because they were starving. Police opened fire. 
Brazil is a basket case.

All of Latin America is suffering from extreme poverty due to the closure of the informal/micro-economy. When people can't work for a day they don't eat that day. 

Just down the road there's an encampment of the "caravan", those folks en route to the US from Central America. They are flagging down traffic looking for money.

The ban on hotels etc. operating is being lifted so I am considering moving to Mexico city. My hosts need all the income they can get and I'm currently occupying their best room!

I don't see how my plans can survive. I'm reading as much as I can as to what is going on - everywhere. 
From a purely selfish point of view Central America is a frightening prospect for the foreseeable future. In theory, I could possibly skip down to maybe Argentina by plane at some stage and hopefully things would have improved by the time it was time to head north again.

Another alternative is to head to the US. Certainly the run up to the election would be a very interesting time. Texas is plenty big to keep me amused for a while  However, it's a lot more expensive and the border will most likely be closed to me for quite a while.

I'm in no rush to go back to Europe. I'd need to get a job and that's not looking likely. So long as I can be safe, and not be a problem for others I'm happy enough to stay put. In the short term I'd like to see if I can sign up for some voluntary work and actually contribute something.

On a positive note, my Spanish is getting better - or at least I think so! But so many vowels!! My tongue is getting a great workout! 
Duolingo is a great app for the basics and practice. There's an element of competition to it which makes me do it even when I don't feel like it. There's lots of YouTube lessons too, so between the app, the videos and my own little stories it keeps me amused.

I really, really miss the journey. Different places every day, different people, wonderful food . I was looking through old photos (Google Photos is great!) for the inspiration thread and it both cheered me up and dragged me down!

I keep telling myself how lucky I am. And I really am. 

Hoping that y'all are keeping well! 

As Bruce would say, see you further on up the road


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## IaninSheffield (30 May 2020)

Hola F, great to have an update from you. Sad to hear though about the situation in Central and South America. An even smaller proportion of our news than normal is reporting on what is happening elsewhere so I wasn't at all aware how bad it has become.

I guess part of the problem for us all, but given your circumstances, you in particular, is the inability to plan a path forward. There are few if any clues on what prospects the medium and longer term futures hold and it seems life has become increasingly about living from day to day. Making the most of that might be the least worst option for the time being, until a clearer (or less risky?) path shows itself. If you're able to undertake any voluntary work as you suggested, that might help those in your host country and you ... not least your improving Spanish!

Stay well. Stay safe.


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## CharlesF (30 May 2020)

Thanks for setting it all out, tough times for a lot of people. I wasn’t trying to make you feel hungry, it was supposed to be Rick’s comments on how welcoming and friendly the Mexican are.

I hope you can get sorted for the next few months, being so resourceful I’m confident that you will!

All the best to you and your hosts.


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## netman (30 May 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Another alternative is to head to the US. Certainly the run up to the election would be a very interesting time. Texas is plenty big to keep me amused for a while  However, it's a lot more expensive and the border will most likely be closed to me for quite a while.



Have you thought about California (when you can get back in) - amazing state to visit - Yosemite, Death Valley, Joshua Tree NP and a ride along the coast around San Fran would be a trip to remember... expensive though, as you say!


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## IaninSheffield (1 Jun 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Don't be getting excited, I'm not back on the road, well at least not in any *travelling* sense.


Oh, but you are!


HobbesOnTour said:


> My 14km yesterday, my 12ish today may total up to 26km on the road, but in my head I've travelled further than I think I've ever done before


And whilst it might only be a few km in the tyres turning sense, perhaps metaphorically it's been much further?


HobbesOnTour said:


> I met people who waved and smiled. I met cars and pickups who pulled over for me, or slowed down to reduce the dust. Three teenagers passed me on an ancient motorbike (social distancing how are you??!) smiling and waving. I met groups of cowboys off on a Sunday jaunt.


These wonderful participants in your story are, albeit briefly, sharing your adventure. You and they (and the cowboys, caballeros and wavy girl) are both contributors and recipients, each giving and receiving a little something that lightens one anothers load. I wonder how many went home and told of this loco gringo out having the time of his life on his bike? Maybe a son or daughter, brother or sister might have been inspired and just might pull that old bike out the stable and ...
You'll likely never know how many lives you touched, but touch them you have, just as they have affected you ...


HobbesOnTour said:


> Someone must have been slicing some big onions when I continued on. In that brief conversation a lot of my fears were put to bed and I realised that this hiatus is going to give me the chance to get so much more out of this little adventure! It *may well not be on a bike*, but I can live with that!


Ooo, that's a tease!


HobbesOnTour said:


> Day by day the layers get heavier. The New Normal - the phrase of our times. *We just get used to the load.*


Or as you did, we hop on our bikes, head for the nearest dirt road (or potholed stretch of tarmac!) and rattle those waffers off.


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## Pat "5mph" (1 Jun 2020)

@HobbesOnTour, good to hear from you!
I can't cycle at the moment because I've injured my knee during a vigorous gardening session.
Your post makes me want to jump on my bike on this sunny Scottish morning!
Keep safe and well, as long as we have our health everything else is going to work itself out.


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## netman (1 Jun 2020)

And he's back! Great to read and I felt just a few of those waffers melting as I read - to get the rest, I'm just gonna have to take off somewhere myself I think!


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## cwskas (1 Jun 2020)

Fantastic, I am so glad you were able to get in the saddle and enjoy the countryside.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jun 2020)

Thanks all!
@netman I have indeed considered the Pacific coast of the US and indeed onwards across Canada as a route back! I may have been immobile, but my poor brain is always planning! 
I have to say the scenes coming out of the US this past weekend are shocking. Charleston, Nashville, Austin, San Antonio have all featured - all places I've been to on the bike. Cincinnati I visited by car. Somehow, things seem more real when I know the places. 

@IaninSheffield many thanks for your kind words. 

@Pat "5mph" injured gardening???
I always knew it was a dangerous hobby! Take care of yourself!

Anyways, I'm off for another mini adventure!


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## cwskas (20 Jun 2020)

Great post, brings back lots of good memories!

Day whatever… .it's really not important!


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## Pat "5mph" (21 Jun 2020)

Glad you're keeping safe and well @HobbesOnTour 
I'm writing this from a rainy Scotland.
I can't cycle (can barely walk lol) at the moment because I've injured a knee in a gardening mishap, silly me.
For best or worse, lockdown is easing everywhere in Europe, won't be long till you can get going again.


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## CharlesF (21 Jun 2020)

Lovely heart warming story of the locksmith. Glad you here you’re OK


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jun 2020)

Wo


Pat "5mph" said:


> Glad you're keeping safe and well @HobbesOnTour
> I'm writing this from a rainy Scotland.
> I can't cycle (can barely walk lol) at the moment because I've injured a knee in a gardening mishap, silly me.
> For best or worse, lockdown is easing everywhere in Europe, won't be long till you can get going again.


Wow, that injury is really keeping you down!!
I was laid up last year for the guts of six months - nearly drove me crazy! My sympathies.

Things may be opening up, but I'd be questioning how long for. Look at Beijing - another lockdown. I'm in no rush to get going again. I mean I really, really miss the road, but it's just too much of an unknown.

Hoping to get good news on being able to stay longer here this coming week (my visitor permit expires) but predictions are that Covid will remain serious here until at least October. ☹️

Take care of yourself, take the time to dream - you never know where you can be 12 months from now 😀


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jun 2020)

My next update just got a whole lot more interesting!
Mexico was hit by an earthquake today, but provisional reports are quite positive.
I'm telling you, there is no end to adventure on this trip!


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## netman (23 Jun 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My next update just got a whole lot more interesting!
> Mexico was hit by an earthquake today, but provisional reports are quite positive.
> I'm telling you, there is no end to adventure on this trip!



Yep, just saw that on the news and had to remind myself where Aporo was just to check you weren't anywhere near!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jun 2020)

netman said:


> Yep, just saw that on the news and had to remind myself where Aporo was just to check you weren't anywhere near!


I'm actually in México city! Have my visitor permit / visa meeting tomorrow 😀


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## IaninSheffield (23 Jun 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm actually in México city! Have my visitor permit / visa meeting tomorrow 😀


Wishing you good fortune 🤞


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## IaninSheffield (29 Jun 2020)

Reading your posts is always a treat sir, but your latest in Mexico City was an absolute gem. I had no impression whatsoever of what it might be like. Since I would never be likely to visit, I've simply never spared it a moment's thought. After reading your post I'd now love to explore, experience and savour some of the many delights you describe.

It sounds like it's totally captured your heart and I completely understand why you're keen to tarry a while. What a wonderfully serendipitous discovery. *If* this catastrophic situation had not developed and you'd not been obliged to change your plans. And *if* you'd not found sanctuary with these particular hosts. What then? Carpe diem 👍


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## cwskas (29 Jun 2020)

Excellent post! So much fun reading it. I read about half of it to my wife I was so excited. She seemed to enjoy the parts I read and the pictures I shared with her.

Willie


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## cwskas (29 Jun 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A six street junction controlled by traffic lights … A mass of cables and power lines, seemingly in a massive tangle … Trees. Everywhere trees! … And smiles. So many smiles … experiencing an earthquake … Mexico City has happened to me … I've fallen, and fallen hard, for this place.
> 
> Parks … squirrels … architecture … people … Centro Historico … monuments … the city is so alive … road noise … vender noise … people noise … museums … big puddles … dodgy surfaces … making up my own spanish course … adventurous for sure!
> 
> ...



I wanted to reply to so many different things ... such a good post! 

Thank you again for sharing your pictures and narratives of your adventures.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Jun 2020)

Thanks @IaninSheffield and @cwskas for the compliments 😊

I'm the worst judge of my efforts, but I'm enjoying it! Wandering around this great city the words are are piling up in my poor brain! Some of them even are Spanish words 

You're absolutely right, Ian, about the serendipity of the situation. So many ifs and so many positives. I'm incredibly lucky! 
But isn't that touring in a nutshell? 
Hope for the best
Prepare for the worst
Be happy with what you get.


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## CH99 (11 Jul 2020)

Absolutely fantastic read. Found your thread by chance and I’ve been well and truly drawn in. You’ve just made it to Charleston!


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## CH99 (12 Jul 2020)

Update - finished 

Couldn’t stop reading it. Your genuine love for touring and Mexico in particular was infectious.

Never read a bike touring blog before and I’m not sure I’ll read another because I’d only be disappointed.

Seriously ballsy decision to stay put and it reads as though you without question made the right call. Wishing you all the best for your continuing adventure in Mexico City. Staying put doesn’t mean you can’t update, I’m sure we’d all love to hear what you’ve been up to 

Stay safe


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jul 2020)

Thanks @CH99 for the kind words. I can't recommend CrazyGuyOnABike.com for a fantastic selection of journals from all over the world. Great, inspirational reading! Maybe not for now, but certainly for those long, winter nights!

From Charleston to México in a day is pretty impressive travelling! And now you want more? 

I am working on a couple of posts - the problem here is that almost every day is full of things worth remembering and trying to organise everything into something logical is proving quite difficult! México and logic appear to be two words that do not naturally sit well together - meant in the best possible way! 

You say I made a brave decision to stay put. What has to be remembered is that I was already in México for three months at that stage and my experience (and gut) led me to believe that this was as good a place as any to stay.

Forgive me if I come across as a bit of a twat, but the great thing about travelling on a bike is that we have the chance to connect with real things. In the real world. We're not clock watching, we're not measuring ourselves. We're seeing things as they really are - not on a screen, not through a window. We're feeling things as they really are (not always pleasant! ). I believe that allows us to tap into parts of us that we don't normally use in day to day life. Instinct. Gut feeling. Call it what you want, but I believe it's there.
My decision was mainly based on that (and not having a home to return to! )

I haven't been proven wrong in the meantime.

I'd also like to add, probably late at this stage, but sometimes dark clouds can hover around a bit too long. This chat thread has been a bright sun and a gentle wind at times, breaking up those clouds and sending them on their way.

So, a little late, but a heartfelt thank you to all the contributors on this thread.

Edited to add:
There's many great travelogues right here! Support your own community!


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## CharlesF (12 Jul 2020)

Hey, Hobbs, it was sad to read that you have had some dark clouds as I have, selfishly, been reading your posts ( and drinking in your brilliant pictures) as my own silver lining, without a though that not everything is always rosy.

Take heart that you have lifted many spirits With your Big Big Trip Journal and we are all here for you, if only in spirit.


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Jul 2020)

Thanks @CharlesF for the words and the sentiment.
It's nothing serious and nothing to worry too much about.

It's always nice to read a positive comment and sometimes I dip in here to reread some of the nice things you good folk have said 😊

Normally, on the bike I can drop a negative mood on the road and cycle away from it until it's lost way behind me. Being less mobile that's a bit more difficult to do!

I'm loving my time in México, even if it's not in the way i anticipated. As good as it is, there are certainly scenes and events that would require a heart of granite not to be touched. 

Sometimes I need a little lift and with time differences and the like this thread is always there.

I just wanted to record that fact and express my gratitude.


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## CharlesF (13 Jul 2020)

Seeing as Mexico City is to the fore, this makes interstellar reading Crowd-sourcing mapping


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Jul 2020)

CharlesF said:


> Seeing as Mexico City is to the fore, this makes interstellar reading Crowd-sourcing mapping


Interesting article, thanks.
Yes, i've seen those buses - in fact every town or city has them here, but I've no idea how they work . All I know is they'll go anywhere.....and stop whenever and wherever they want 

They're just one branch of the many, many "unofficial" services available in this country. 

I think it's quite an innovative approach for the Government to encourage out of the box thinking by experts in different fields.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Jul 2020)

If I ever get rolling again, I'll have to be mindful of a new hazard on the roads......


View: https://youtu.be/BLazttsK1ko


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## Blue Hills (14 Jul 2020)

I trust you weren't downwind.


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## cwskas (18 Jul 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Of course, I didn't write down the number directly, I codified it, disguising it effectively…..very effectively as it turns out!



Very funny! There are probably not many (if any) reading this who cannot relate to that feeling!

Willie


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## IaninSheffield (18 Jul 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> However, I'm not a fan of the Bolt because I think it's a bit small and I'm not a fan of the Roam because it's overpriced for what it does and it has too many bells and whistles for me.


I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that there is no ideal GPS doohickey. I can get a whole bike I can customise precisely to my various needs, but one little navigation device ... nope!
I wonder how much more complex (and frustrating) it is conducting research for such things in a country where you're not working in your primary language?


HobbesOnTour said:


> I should also add that the Elemnt has been acting up, generally too. Not reloading an existing ride when switched off and even totally freezing one day - it's never done that. This is all happening after a three month layoff. I'm not an electronics expert but I can't help but see a connection.


Perhaps not being able to 'see the _connection_' is the problem? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> *The nerve centre! Tidied especially for the photo *​


Mission Control!

Houston, we have a problem.
_Copy that Hobbes. What is the nature of the problem?_
It's a memory cache issue Houston. Insufficient for a four digit numeral.

Glad to see that Mexico, like so many other places, hasn't grasped the concept of electrical sockets at a useful height ... or maybe there's a cunning use case scenario I haven't identified.


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## Blue Hills (18 Jul 2020)

Maybe I'm biased but I think it a pity that you went for more wahoo after your troubles hobbes. I'd have gone maybe a bit backwards in tech (not always bad) and gone for something like an etrex 20/x. AA batteries so no way will the batteries compromise the life of the thing. Normal AAs. Or rechargeables, easy to recharge from mains on stops. You can also charge AAs from a cheapo thing Ikea (and doubtless others) sell plugged into a powerbank. That charged of course from your dynamo.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jul 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that there is no ideal GPS doohickey. I can get a whole bike I can customise precisely to my various needs, but one little navigation device ... nope!



You're absolutely right about that. I'd say to anyone thinking about a unit to have a really goid think about what they want *before* they go looking. Once you start looking you're overwhelmed with sales talk and "must haves". 


IaninSheffield said:


> I wonder how much more complex (and frustrating) it is conducting research for such things in a country where you're not working in your primary language?


Surprisingly not, thanks to the internet. Specs, reviews etc. are available everywhere. I just need to be careful of import duties and availability of any necessary accesories. For something like a gps unit what maps are included is important too (thinking specifically of Garmin here).


IaninSheffield said:


> Perhaps not being able to 'see the _connection_' is the problem?


Sorry - not seeing the connection here either 


IaninSheffield said:


> Mission Control!
> 
> Houston, we have a problem.
> _Copy that Hobbes. What is the nature of the problem?_
> It's a memory cache issue Houston. Insufficient for a four digit numeral.





IaninSheffield said:


> Glad to see that Mexico, like so many other places, hasn't grasped the concept of electrical sockets at a useful height ... or maybe there's a cunning use case scenario I haven't identified.


The things people notice!


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jul 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Maybe I'm biased but I think it a pity that you went for more wahoo after your troubles hobbes. I'd have gone maybe a bit backwards in tech (not always bad) and gone for something like an etrex 20/x. AA batteries so no way will the batteries compromise the life of the thing. Normal AAs. Or rechargeables, easy to recharge from mains on stops. You can also charge AAs from a cheapo thing Ikea (and doubtless others) sell plugged into a powerbank. That charged of course from your dynamo.


I think you're forgetting that I only have my phone to work with, increasing the complexity of interacting with the unit significantly.
Other than this battery failure and one time at home when I unwittingly tried to use the unit while it was updating, the Elemnt has been a dream. It's connectivity with the likes of Komoot is not to be underestimated on the road. (Not to be read as an endorseme of Komoot - its not, but it is handy in cities). I wouldn't like anyone to think I've "had troubles" with Wahoo. I've had one issue (not an uncommon one in electronics) and it has been rectified to my satisfaction.
As things stand I can create or "borrow" a route thousands of km long and put it straight onto the unit. I'm not sure I can do that with the different etrex units.
As I mentioned, I've read of too many issues with memory cards. The one in my phone has been corrupted. The logistics of trying to sort that out on the road is not a pleasant thought.
Yes, the battery is the weak point (like all electronics) but I'm covered now for a year at least, in the event of any further problems. 
Trying to get a handle on what maps I would need for the Garmin was not easy (complicated by the fact that I have no idea where I will be going next) and would involve extra expense or a lot of effort (have I mentioned I only have a phone).

Garmin customer service is not the best in my experience (I had a "touring" unit that crashed more times on one ride than my Elemnt in three years.)

There are other issues as well. I'd need a special mount for an etrex, a completely new bit of kit that can't be tested in a rough environment until I'm in that environment. Available here, but not easy to get. My current mount (and the spare I carry) will work for the new unit and I have more spares! Plus, I know it works - even over the rough stuff.
Then there's a different cable needed for the unit.
There's too many "new" things to deal with on the road in a strange part of the world.
Finally, to reiterate, the killer thing for me is the ease of syncing to strava. Currently, an internet connection is all I need to quickly upload the day's ride to Strava. that's not so easy on an etrex.
Oh, the price! Wahoo gave me a hefty discount on the price of either unit and while a bit more expensive than an etrex it meant that price wasn't an issue in the decision- not usual for me.

Another time in another place an etrex may well do a good job.


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## Blue Hills (18 Jul 2020)

Didn't realise you were only carrying a phone hobbes. Assumed you had a tablet or mini laptop.
Admire you writing your wonderful tour blog on a phone.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jul 2020)

If you go down to the woods today.....


View: https://youtu.be/dEixl0OIMcQ


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## Blue Hills (26 Jul 2020)

Happy you are still enjoying Mexico Hobbes and they are treating you well, but I fear that questionable film sold you a bit of a tale on Italy, Marissa Tomei or not.


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## cwskas (27 Jul 2020)

Intriguing post, thanks for the photos.

Willie


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## IaninSheffield (27 Jul 2020)

Another captivating post sir; I can see why you seem to be increasingly enchanted with your adopted country of refuge. 'People over rules' ... or reminders of Marissa Tomei perhaps? 

Your seismic experience sounds to have been unnderstandably unsettling, and yet somewhat reassuring, if only in the aftermath. I guess if you live with the continual threat, you become respectful of the potential for harm, but intent on not being cowed by it - know thine enemy I suppose. Here in the UK, perhaps through lack of practice, we invariably seem inadequately prepared for calamitous events. When I was in NZ staying in an AirBnB, I was watching the news on the TV with my host when an article came on about the potential for disruption to water supplies during times of crisis - can't remember whether it was earthquake, volcano or drought. He calmly said he hadn't thought about that, then went down to his garage and filled up several multi-gallon containers ... just in case. All very matter of fact; preparedness is just what you do there.

Stay safe. And watch out for those illicit, gangsta gas vendors


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Jul 2020)

Blue Hills said:


> Happy you are still enjoying Mexico Hobbes and they are treating you well, but I fear that questionable film sold you a bit of a tale on Italy, Marissa Tomei or not.


I loved my time in Italy! Please don't try to take it away from me! 😄


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## Blue Hills (27 Jul 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I loved my time in Italy! Please don't try to take it away from me! 😄


OK.
I'll spare you my reading list.


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## cwskas (10 Aug 2020)

> I have very, very short hair now……. and a brand spanking new baseball cap! 😄



I can relate to that. Many years ago I attempted to cut my wife's beautiful, almost to her waist hair (at her request) thinking 'how hard can it be?' By the time I had about 3 inches off the back and still not straight, she was not a happy woman and had called one of her friends to salvage the job. It was never spoken of again!!!

I enjoyed your translations of dog thoughts and intentions.

Willie


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## Vantage (10 Aug 2020)

I had a similar situation with my eldest daughter a few weeks ago. 
I warned her it would go well but she insisted because all the hairdressers were closed due to covid. 
I tried. I really did. But I eventually gave in and phoned my other half to come to the rescue. Thankfully it wasn't a complete disaster.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Aug 2020)

cwskas said:


> I enjoyed your translations of dog thoughts and intentions.
> 
> Willie


Thanks, Willie,
Let's not forget the dogs were speaking Spanish


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## IaninSheffield (10 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm one of those people that thinks dogs can smile


I agree. How could the pooches on this page be doing anything other than smiling?



HobbesOnTour said:


> I can buy action hero masks, scary masks, traditional style artisanal masks (the most wonderful, bright colours) as well as a variety of medical style masks. I can buy them in pharmacies or from any number of sellers on the street.


Or a Hobbesian version?



No, wait. Given the hair situation, maybe you might be better off with ...


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Aug 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> No, wait. Given the hair situation, maybe you might be better off with ...



I'd be afraid I might become too attractive for the locals 

https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-45834417

I've got to take my hat off to this country.....


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## CharlesF (17 Aug 2020)

I enjoyed the latest diary entry, the descriptions bring it all alive and the pictures are amazing. Two thoughts as a result.

The first being, with so much to see in a relatively area small cycling any distance, as a target, would be a sin if you missed all people and views.

Secondly, it shows how beneficial learning the local language can be in gaining an understanding of what you see.

Thanks, @HobbesOnTour, entertaining as always.


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## cwskas (17 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> This place is exceptional and deserves to be treated exceptionally!



Thanks for painting such great pictures with your words and for the actual pictures!

Willie


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## Shadow (17 Aug 2020)

Another great piece.
It is so life affirming and such a positive view of the human condition. Something I find lacking in the UK at times.
Thank you.


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Aug 2020)

CharlesF said:


> I enjoyed the latest diary entry, the descriptions bring it all alive and the pictures are amazing. Two thoughts as a result.
> 
> The first being, with so much to see in a relatively area small cycling any distance, as a target, would be a sin if you missed all people and views.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much @CharlesF I'm delighted to know you're enjoying it.
I really hope that all goes well for you and that soon I'll be able to read about your adventures.

Absolutely true that it would be sinful to miss the detail, however, I am missing more "normal" riding. 

Also, the language is proving to be valuable. One of my favourite parts of travelling by bike is that it lubricates interactions. Language is a necessary second step for anything other than simple interactions. 
It also has to be said just how open the people are here. It makes interactions, of any level, much richer. These then act as motivation to double down on the Spanish - quite a positive circle

Take care of yourself!


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Aug 2020)

Shadow said:


> Another great piece.
> It is so life affirming and such a positive view of the human condition. Something I find lacking in the UK at times.
> Thank you.


Thank you for the kind words.

There _is_ something life affirming in the air here, but in fairness, there is in a lot of places - we can just get out into the habit of looking for it! 

I know someone who would see my story of the two young fellas playing in the road as evidence of a dangerous tendency in this country to undervalue life and therefore a very negative thing.
When I saw them dodging the traffic I pulled in just to watch. My focus was less on them and more on everyone else. From my perspective it's a positive story. 

I could write an essay on this subject, but the short version would be that the world is often very different to how it's portrayed. To see the real world, meet the people!*

Oh, this smiling thing is contagious! Smile at someone and they're much more likely to smile back! 

I cycled over and back across the UK a couple of years ago and received many kindnesses there. There was one jackass, but he only served to highlight everyone else's humanity.

This, I think, is a great song for our times. 

View: https://youtu.be/MPrPtDoaB3s


* It's also entirely possible that I am slowly going crazy and my perspective is totally banjaxed


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Aug 2020)

cwskas said:


> Thanks for painting such great pictures with your words and for the actual pictures!
> 
> Willie


The truth is Willie that I am taking gazillions of photos
I can only only post 10 per post here so there's a lot missing out.
I have a couple of ideas, though, to try and get some more up, either here or Strava or Instagram. 

Thanks again for the kind words!


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## netman (18 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The truth is Willie that I am taking gazillions of photos
> I can only only post 10 per post here so there's a lot missing out.
> I have a couple of ideas, though, to try and get some more up, either here or Strava or Instagram.
> 
> Thanks again for the kind words!



I'd be happy to set you up with a free online Blog for this (I work in IT) - there's Blogger or Wordpress (only up to 3GB is free) and I'd happily help copy what's already on this site... it would be good to have a second copy online all in one place with more photos... your writing certainly deserves that! Or we could even set you up with your own domain and hosting if you preferred that? PM me if you're interested - would be a cool project!


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## CharlesF (18 Aug 2020)

@netman Excellent idea


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Aug 2020)

What perfect timing for @Shadow - random acts of kindness from (real world) strangers! 

Thank you @netman for your kind and very generous offer. 

When I was thinking about this trip one thing I knew for sure was that I wanted a record kept. I want someday, when I'm old, decrepit and grumpier to look back on a great big adventure.

Heading away on my first ever bike tour (along the Danube, my bags being carried from hotel to hotel) was one of the best things I ever did. What I saw and ate and drank could have been anticipated, but how I felt? Naw. Nothing could have prepared me for that.
That little jaunt set in train a series of life changing decisions that has me ultimately where I am and I regret not a single thing. (Well, maybe that I didn't start this touring thing earlier!)

That's a very long winded way of saying that this travelogue has a second purpose - to inspire anyone (and I mean pretty much _any_one) to throw a leg over a bike and cycle....anywhere....for an adventure.
If i can do it.....anyone can.

I set about looking at the options and what was best for me in the situations I envisioned.
The leading bike touring website, CGOAB was denied to me (slightly embarassing pubic admission coming up😊) because I was banned! Never been banned from anything in my life!

I didn't like the feel of the commercial blog sites - they were too clean, too organised, too slick. I'll admit to being clean (most of the time) but organised and slick are not two adjectives normally associated with me)

Then I discovered the Travelogue section here, hidden away in the back. (I'm tempted to throw up a Dirty Dancing reference here but don't want to ruin my manly, macho image 😀).

I tested out writing up my trip to Ireland (on the phone) and realised how it could work very easily. 
I had chats with the mod team because this would be slightly different from what went before, certainly in terms of length. They have been fantastic to me since before I started.

I can't think of a better place to record this trip. A parallel or secondary hosting site would seem disrespectful to this site, the mods and to everyone reading this here. 

This site is a fantastic community, friendly and helpful in the main and as a part of this community it behooves us all to keep it that way. I don't mean to come across as egotistical but I'd like to see my Travelogue and this chat thread as a part of my effort in that.

@netman has played his part in that and there are others who have contacted me privately to offer help and words of encouragement too. 
I really couldn't be happier than to have this as the only place to record my trip.

Thanks again, @netman


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## IaninSheffield (23 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Then this vision appeared (ok, out of a car, but an appearance nonetheless!)


Err ... speechless!
That's ... that's ... dedication? 

Can't wait to see photos of your Día de Muertos outfit


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## netman (23 Aug 2020)




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## Fluffy Tilburg Aussie (30 Aug 2020)

Hi Frank, Amazing trip so far. Got talking to Josine & Jeroen about you trip. Temporary stranded in Mexico but living life pure and at it’s fullest. Comparerd to my mini sabbatical in NZ and Perth last year for 3 months in 2019 your trip/travel is epic. I enjoy reading your posts and love the pics. Take care, safe travels and greetings from Fluffy (Tilburg Aussie) and Mrs. Fluffy


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## IaninSheffield (30 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It was on this date one year ago that I handed over the keys of my lovely house and with quite a bit of trepidation started this little adventure


What an amazing adventure ... if not an "aventura"!

You've been so far ...
... but how far have you come ...
... and where are you now?


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Aug 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> What an amazing adventure ... if not an "aventura"!
> 
> You've been so far ...
> ... but how far have you come ...
> ... and where are you now?


And there was me thinking you were following along 

I could be a whole lot worse off!


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## IaninSheffield (31 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> And there was me thinking you were following along


Apologies. Rather too ... enigmatic perhaps?
Was thinking more in terms of - how have you changed after everything you've seen and done in the last 366 days, if at all? Are you the same F who set out a year ago?


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Aug 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Apologies. Rather too ... enigmatic perhaps?



Noooo - I understood perfectly, was just avoiding the question 



IaninSheffield said:


> Was thinking more in terms of - how have you changed after everything you've seen and done in the last 366 days, if at all? Are you the same F who set out a year ago?



The short answer would be that of course I've changed! What would be the point of a year on the road in foreign parts without some kind of a change? 
Of course, that leads into thoughts of where have these changes ocurred? and how real are the changes? 

There's also the complicated issue that the world has changed significantly and probably will not be the same again. When change is happening in a changing environment it's very difficult (to my mind) to measure the degrees of change.

One of the goals of this trip was to redress an imbalance in my life after years of a very heavy workload and driving myself way too hard. Mission is being accomplished! 

As someone who was terrified for far too long of the dark, of dead things, of a world between the living and the dead I can now say that those days are definitely in the past. A magical moment on the Natchez Trace revelling in the inky blackness, celebrating the unknown sounds and, of course, meeting, approaching and talking to Catarina are proof that previous thoughts are well and truly put to bed.

Learning a new language (for someone who was never good at them!) is turning out to be fun, exciting, fulfilling and very rewarding! I've basically come up with my own "course" utilising a variety of sources and developing my own methods that work for me. There's life in the old brain yet! 

A big one would be learning to let go of "stuff". Anyone who's read this little adventure knows that planning is not my strong point - on a bike!
In my previous life, planning, management and control were as vital to me as oxygen. Coming late to cycling and never really learning to measure my "performance" or to define a bike ride in terms of distance, I experienced a whole new world on a bike - one that was about experiencing things, not measuring or controlling things. (Not all the experiences are good.)
I'd find myself, with varying levels of success to transfer my "bike head" to normal life. 
Basically, no matter how well a trip is planned things will happen. The enjoyment of the trip is pretty much based on how we react to the happenings. 
You get a puncture? You can moan and bitch and whinge or you can fix it and get back on the road or you can fix it and look around to see what you might have missed without that puncture. 
If you're a dumbass you might just spend a day bouncing around Mexican backroads only to find yourself almost back at the start. What to do? Go have a coffee and meet a pretty girl
I think my Covid experience is proof that these ideas are taking a firm root in my operating system. If I can admit to a little pride, I'm very happy with how I'm coping in a country of this size, knowing a handful of people in a time of crisis. 
Not every day is easy, but there are far more positives than negatives. Instead of concentrating on what I can't do (or control) I'm looking for what I can do. I can't help but think that this country is designed to help in that, but at the end of the day I'm playing my part and that's more than good enough. 

Finally, there's baggage. I'm sure my load is the cause of much mirth but I genuinely believe the heaviest loads we carry are in our minds. 
There's something about cycling, the quiet time, the meditative rhythm of turning the pedals that shakes our heads up like a snow globe and gives us the time and space to examine, to reflect and to file past experiences away. The longer the road, the more time there is to do these things. Given the right opportunities we can transform the blizzards of our minds to a calm and still landscape.
I have.

I bet you're sorry you asked the question now 
The thing with change is that it's changeable! 
While I've read many, many accounts of bike trips there is a serious dearth of accounts of "what happened next...."
I know I had problems reintegrating into "normal" life after previous trips - I put it down to the trip highlighting the differences between where I was and where I wanted to be with the inevitable conflict from that. I'm hoping that after such a long trip and what will effectively be a new start that there will be no conflict. 
But hey, it's a bike tour - anything can happen!


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## IaninSheffield (31 Aug 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I understood perfectly, was just avoiding the question


Figured as much. That's why I pushed ... gently I hope 


HobbesOnTour said:


> I bet you're sorry you asked the question now


Far from it. For me, learning how other folks make sense of their experiences helps me think about what's important for me. What _really should_ matter rather than what I superficially think matters.


HobbesOnTour said:


> There's something about cycling, the quiet time, the meditative rhythm of turning the pedals that shakes our heads up like a snow globe and gives us the time and space to examine, to reflect and to file past experiences away. The longer the road, the more time there is to do these things. Given the right opportunities we can transform the blizzards of our minds to a calm and still landscape.
> I have.


Wonderfully put. If someone asked me what I think about while I'm bimbling along, often I'd be hard pressed to provide an answer. I do know though that having the time to reflect and ponder at length has been at times both cathartic (in coming to terms with difficult issues) and inspiring (wrestling with interesting problems to find innovative solutions). At other times I just take delight in a bird twittering in the hedgerow, or drink in the breathtaking view which appears after rounding a bend. I would never have believed I'd be comfortable spending hour after hour allowing the thoughts in my mind to tumble over one another like shirts, shorts and socks in a washing machine. But mostly, just like the clothing, they seem to come out fresh, fluffy and clean ... at the end of the cycle.


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Aug 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Figured as much. That's why I pushed ... gently I hope


No harm done! 


IaninSheffield said:


> Far from it. For me, learning how other folks make sense of their experiences helps me think about what's important for me. What _really should_ matter rather than what I superficially think matters.


I can't help but wonder how many people do the things they "should" do as opposed to the things they _want_ to do.
Based on a scientific study of one (me!) it took time and practice to develop the "courage" to say "feck travel guide/top ten list etc. I'll see and visit what I want to." To me, the important thing is to be comfortable in where I am as opposed to wondering what I'm missing somewhere else. 

It's also raises the importance of compatible travelling companions.



IaninSheffield said:


> Wonderfully put. If someone asked me what I think about while I'm bimbling along, often I'd be hard pressed to provide an answer. I do know though that having the time to reflect and ponder at length has been at times both cathartic (in coming to terms with difficult issues) and inspiring (wrestling with interesting problems to find innovative solutions). At other times I just take delight in a bird twittering in the hedgerow, or drink in the breathtaking view which appears after rounding a bend. I would never have believed I'd be comfortable spending hour after hour allowing the thoughts in my mind to tumble over one another like shirts, shorts and socks in a washing machine. But mostly, just like the clothing, they seem to come out fresh, fluffy and clean ... at the end of the cycle.



Cathartic? Of course! I haven't had a good trip unless I've wept at least once! 😊

And sometimes some dirty thoughts can be fun too! 

However, all that time and meditation brings up an important point in preparation that is often overlooked - the mental side.
If someone isn't prepared all that time could be spent worrying or doubting or other states of anxiety.
I've met more than a few touring cyclists who were very stressed and did not seem to be enjoying themselves at all. 
I'm not suggesting I don't become stressed or anxious, but I really appreciate my time on the bike and if my head's not right I'll take a bit of time to try to make it right. 
The perfect bike, the best gear, the latest tech and the best made plans mean very little if the head isn't right.

I think I've just seen my first ever humming bird! - it's tiny!! México's great!


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## cwskas (31 Aug 2020)

Great post, I liked the pictures before, nice to see the spruced up pictures though.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Sep 2020)

cwskas said:


> Great post, I liked the pictures before, nice to see the spruced up pictures though.
> 
> Willie


Actually, Willie, they're all the original pics - no enhancements at all


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## IaninSheffield (7 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I can't get a really good handle on how easy or otherwise Strava is to look at pictures, so if anyone has some feedback or suggestions I'd appreciate it!


From my tablet, where I'm not logged in to Strava, I'm shown only three preview thumbnails. Strava asked me to download the app to view more, but then of course it will ask for an account to be created. That's OK for me since I do have one, though of course other viewers may not, or may be viewing from a PC/laptop where installing an app isn't possible.
This is obviously just my (selfish) preference, but I enjoy viewing photos most of all when they illustrate a narrative and encourage me to try to imagine what it must be like to be there. But that's just me.


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Sep 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> From my tablet, where I'm not logged in to Strava, I'm shown only three preview thumbnails. Strava asked me to download the app to view more, but then of course it will ask for an account to be created. That's OK for me since I do have one, though of course other viewers may not, or may be viewing from a PC/laptop where installing an app isn't possible.


Thanks, Ian. It's difficult for me to get a handle on what people can see since this is all done mobile.



IaninSheffield said:


> This is obviously just my (selfish) preference, but I enjoy viewing photos most of all when they illustrate a narrative and encourage me to try to imagine what it must be like to be there. But that's just me.


I agree 100%.....
In normal circumstances
The fact is that there is so much here to see, to experience and to see again that there aren't enough words!
I've written loads..... but I'm pretty sure reading it will seem repetitive and dull. Just how many dog/park stories can the world take? 

There's one particular neighbourhood that deserves its own book. Every time I visit it I see things I haven't seen before, or that seem different in sun, in rain, in the morning or at night. It's mind scrambling, I tell you! 

I'll ponder some more.

Thanks for the feedback!


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## tom73 (7 Sep 2020)

@HobbesOnTour wordpress or other basic stripped down blogging type site?


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Sep 2020)

tom73 said:


> @HobbesOnTour wordpress or other basic stripped down blogging type site?


Thanks, Tom.
It's a possibility, but, to be honest, I'd rather keep as much content as possible here. 
This is a great little community, the Mods have been great and there's good activity on this thread. The only problem is the 10 pictures per post limit. 
I suppose I could use a dedicated blogging site for the pandemic time, but it feels a bit off, really. 

I think Ian's right - words and pictures together, perhaps supplementing the pictures elsewhere. I'm playing around with a few ideas over my morning coffee 😊







That's an example of what I'm dealing with - I've walked & biked past that tree numerous times and yesterday noticed that tree for the first time! 

I'm telling you, this city just keeps on giving - it's great!


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## tom73 (7 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Thanks, Tom.
> It's a possibility, but, to be honest, I'd rather keep as much content as possible here.
> This is a great little community, the Mods have been great and there's good activity on this thread. The only problem is the 10 pictures per post limit.
> I suppose I could use a dedicated blogging site for the pandemic time, but it feels a bit off, really.
> ...



Yes very no better place really 
You can always have a blog type page and keep it private for when you want to have a play around. With your thoughts and ideas before you write things up. In the same way some always carry a note book about or have one by the bed. So easy to see or think stuff then only to forget when later comes.


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Sep 2020)

tom73 said:


> In the same way some always carry a note book about or have one by the bed. So easy to see or think stuff then only to forget when later comes.


I always have a notebook (and sometimes a pen) in my handlebar bag, but the simple truth is that a phone just does a better job!
I can write up a quick note related to one or a series of photos, or better still make a voice memo to record a particular place, feeling or event. Long after the moment has passed I have a recording of exactly how I felt at the time - simply priceless.


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## tom73 (7 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I always have a notebook (and sometimes a pen) in my handlebar bag, but the simple truth is that a phone just does a better job!
> I can write up a quick note related to one or a series of photos, or better still make a voice memo to record a particular place, feeling or event. Long after the moment has passed I have a recording of exactly how I felt at the time - simply priceless.



Cool I was not sure what your set up was I do the same notes app is a great go to mind pad.


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## IaninSheffield (7 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There's one particular neighbourhood that deserves its own book.


Can I put in a pre-publication order please?
You should do it. Seriously! There's no shortage of cycle touring books out there, but I've seen nothing which fits the niche of a cycle tourist confined through circumstances to a particular place, especially one as amazing as you're describing Mexico City to be.
I can see it now "Ciclista flâneur en la ciudad de méxico."


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Sep 2020)

This place really _is_ crazy!

The video is in Spanish but the pictures are clear enough 

View: https://youtu.be/7zXN86idJAg


Maybe Hobbes has been having more fun than me!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Sep 2020)

Fluffy Tilburg Aussie said:


> Hi Frank, Amazing trip so far. Got talking to Josine & Jeroen about you trip. Temporary stranded in Mexico but living life pure and at it’s fullest. Comparerd to my mini sabbatical in NZ and Perth last year for 3 months in 2019 your trip/travel is epic. I enjoy reading your posts and love the pics. Take care, safe travels and greetings from Fluffy (Tilburg Aussie) and Mrs. Fluffy


Hola Señor y Señora Fluffy! 
Only saw this today so apologies for the late reply.

Thanks for blowing my anonymity Guess I'll have to stay here now😄

I highly recommend México as a place to visit. The most important thing to pack is time. This is not a place to rush through. By pure dumb luck I seem to have landed in the best place to see out this pandemic.

You may also be interested in this recent NZ blog https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/m...w-zealands-north-island-in-early-2020.259907/

Great to hear from you, glad you're enjoying the adventure and tell everyone (well, nearly everyone) I said "Hola".


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## IaninSheffield (14 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> He mentioned Coyoacán and I told him of my near drug-like addiction.


Catching up with the BBC World Service Witness History podcasts the other day and there was one on Frida Kahlo. What a force of nature she seemed to be, especially given the difficult circumstances with which she lived.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Sep 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Catching up with the BBC World Service Witness History podcasts the other day and there was one on Frida Kahlo. What a force of nature she seemed to be, especially given the difficult circumstances with which she lived.


Indeed! A most interesting character, much beloved in a country where a lot of what she represented in her art and her life are anathema to the main religion.
Her museum in the house in which she lived reopened just last week! I'll be paying a visit most likely next week.
Her famous "Blue House" is a pilgrimage for a lot of artists and fans of her work, but if I'm honest, it's not even the most interesting building on the street, never mind the area 

When I'm finished there, I might pop in to the Leon Trotsky museum and learn a bit more about one of her affairs


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## IaninSheffield (28 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There are definitely days and they're coming around more frequently now when the road isn't just calling out to me, it's bellowing, Sergeant Major-like at me. The urge to explore sometimes, is very dominant, clouding everything else.


Was catching up with a recent episode of Alastair Humphreys' Living Adventurously podcast featuring a chap called Jack Cornish and was immediately minded of your own adventure(s). Although the #everysinglestreet notion might not appeal, vis ...


HobbesOnTour said:


> Now that cycle.travel is working here I could easily throw a route together to bring me from church to church. Feck that! This way is a lot more fun!


... at least insofar as chasing the target of walking/cycling #everysinglestreet, nevertheless, the enchantment in exploration, delight of discovery, and relishing revelations shine through in all your posts. However, I couldn't help but notice on the Every•Single•Street site that Ciudad de México doesn't currently appear to be covered - #justsayin 😉 - although there's probably a good reason for that.

Although you might not quite be motivated by the same rationale as the chap behind Every•Single•Street, you and he do seem to share at least some similar philosophies. The video is well worth a watch:


View: https://youtu.be/jy_W5qsjB5U


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Sep 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Was catching up with a recent episode of Alastair Humphreys' Living Adventurously podcast featuring a chap called Jack Cornish and was immediately minded of your own adventure(s). Although the #everysinglestreet notion might not appeal, vis ...
> 
> ... at least insofar as chasing the target of walking/cycling #everysinglestreet, nevertheless, the enchantment in exploration, delight of discovery, and relishing revelations shine through in all your posts. However, I couldn't help but notice on the Every•Single•Street site that Ciudad de México doesn't currently appear to be covered - #justsayin 😉 - although there's probably a good reason for that.
> 
> ...



Thanks for the link!

You do like your podcasts! At the moment I'm pretty much staying away from them and any cycle touring blogs etc. as it's just too depressing.

I had a look at that video over my first coffee of the day and had an almost physical reaction to the idea  and not a good physical reaction!

I'm not sure why someone would intentionally place such a restrictive route upon themselves? (What does that say that I see it as restrictive?)

I like the idea that he's not dressed like a runner and appears to interact with people but the cynic in me can't help but wonder if the camera influences actions and reactions.

If I understood it correctly, he "ran" SF in one block of time, sleeping in his car. In my world, that's bordering on (unhealthy) obsession.

Knowing me, as I do, I'd get lost, do the same street multiple times and miss entire blocks!

I tried something like this in the Roma district, on the bike. Up and down, up and down then over and back. As an experiment, it was worthwhile. As an experience I think it suffered from rigidity. It was a dry run for another area but that one will be done differently. Of all the places that I've visited, this fantastic place only suffers when I try to impose some kind of discipline on it! 

What I took from it is the reminder that every street, every alley, every person is worth a look - even if not in the traditional touristic sense.

I'm not sure if it's this place or my covid influenced mentality that has me genuinely enthralled as I walk around. I wonder if I was back at home if I could do it and if I would notice the interesting features of people, buildings and trees like I do here.
It's probably a bit of both. It's easy to look on things with fresh eyes when we're not at home. 

There's a very interesting discussion about the advantages and disadvantages of planning, especially in detail. Information is so freely and easily available that top 10 lists are soon filling up the mind. These can easily morph into checklists. A journey can then easily become about checking off those things.

However, no top 10 list can tell us how we'll react, how we'll feel. The important thing is to be happy where we are. 

I remember vividly the first time, on my first, solo, self supported tour when I turned off my lovingly planned route (on laminated maps!) and headed off to cycle through a German forest. One of the most significant things I've ever done on a bike! 

Oh! CDMX is represented on the site!


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## IaninSheffield (30 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Oh! CDMX is represented on the site


You're right! Sorry about that; not sure how I missed it first time around.

I suspect he was obliged to be somewhat rigid and restrictive in order to complete his mission - a rather different approach to that of the flâneur. Perhaps what that might bring though is the obligation to sally forth into areas one might otherwise avoid ... though the same could of course happen by chance when merely out for a random wander.


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## CharlesF (30 Sep 2020)

I had to look up flâneur. Now I know, it's something t aspire to! I consider myself an apprentice flâneur.


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Sep 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Perhaps what that might bring though is the obligation to sally forth into areas one might otherwise avoid ... though the same could of course happen by chance when merely out for a random wander.


Ah, you see, I don't need that for I am equipped with an active sense of direction distortion device - I can end up anywhere - whether I want to or not!


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Sep 2020)

CharlesF said:


> I had to look up flâneur. Now I know, it's something t aspire to! I consider myself an apprentice flâneur.


I thought it was a makey-upy word where the meaning came from the sound
I'd be happy to be considered a flâneur, although not too happy with the French connection


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## IaninSheffield (30 Sep 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I thought it was a makey-upy word where the meaning came from the sound
> I'd be happy to be considered a flâneur, although not too happy with the French connection


Makey-upy indeed! Tsk!
Actually I suppose it did generate 'Cycleur' which struck me as a step too far ... until I read a wonderful post which unpicked it a bit. Especially loved a quote therein:

*“Flâneurs are opening their eyes and ears to the scene around them. They are not treating the street as an obstacle course to be negotiated; they are opening themselves up to it.”*
Alain de Botton

And what's wrong with the French Connection? Thought it was one of Gene Hackman's best 😉


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Sep 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Makey-upy indeed! Tsk!
> Actually I suppose it did generate 'Cycleur' which struck me as a step too far ... until I read a wonderful post which unpicked it a bit. Especially loved a quote therein:
> 
> *“Flâneurs are opening their eyes and ears to the scene around them. They are not treating the street as an obstacle course to be negotiated; they are opening themselves up to it.”*
> ...


That is a fabulous article! Everyone should read that!
I'm quite familiar with some of Mr de Botton's work (although, juvenile part of my brain reads his name as Bottom) but that was exceptional! Thank you for the link!

And yes, the French Connection is a great movie! It's the "French" part that bothers me! 
However, much like the maligned Germans, the French have a stereotype that does not match the reality, at least on a bike!
I'll extract the urine from the French and the Germans, but I love them, really


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## mikeIow (5 Oct 2020)

I’m slowly wading through your adventure tale: looks absolutely mad!!
before I wade through this chat thread......do you have any sort of full kit list you have with you? That bike+trailer set up looks pretty well loaded!
Stay safe, & keep adventuring!!


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Oct 2020)

mikeIow said:


> I’m slowly wading through your adventure tale: looks absolutely mad!!
> before I wade through this chat thread......do you have any sort of full kit list you have with you? That bike+trailer set up looks pretty well loaded!
> Stay safe, & keep adventuring!!


Hi Mike! Welcome aboard!
I wouldn't be reading too fast if I was you...

I posted bike info in January and a little later the gear I carry (on the chat thread)
Not sure if I'm doing this properly, but here goes 

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-11#post-5860101

Enjoy!


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## Eziemnaik (5 Oct 2020)

Fantastic description of Roma in DF.
Reminds me of Telmo in Buenos Aires - on the verge of becoming overgentrified but still authentic.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Oct 2020)

Eziemnaik said:


> Fantastic description of Roma in DF.
> Reminds me of Telmo in Buenos Aires - on the verge of becoming overgentrified but still authentic.


Argentina is looking so far away at the moment!  Also, I'll probably never have as much time to really immerse myself anywhere so I have to try to make the most of it!


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## IaninSheffield (28 Oct 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> ...
> Why am I talking about plane crashes?
> Well, I haven't been in the best of form for a while. Nothing serious, but it first manifested itself in a poor sleeping pattern. I'd wake up suddenly and have terrible difficulty getting back to sleep. This would happen several times a night, and of course, with sleep, it affects everything else.
> It took me a while to i.d. the trigger and as I alluded to above it was a few things all running together.
> ...


Reading onwards from the above would indeed suggest a rather rough patch ... hopefully, rather than a crash, more ... 🤔, more ...


> "Ladies and gentlemen, the Captain has turned on the fasten seat belt sign. We are now crossing a zone of turbulence. Please return your seats and keep your seat belts fastened. Thank you.”


Good to see you appear to have flown through with no more than a little spilt coffee down your shirt. The city, the architecture, the trees, and of course the people (_and the dogs!_) together constituted your seat belt. Maybe it was tricky to get it to clunk-click at first, then it dug in a little at times, or was a little too tight, but in the end it kept you safe.

Oh, and if you could avoid paragraphs like:


HobbesOnTour said:


> In the centre of the old town of Coyocán a girl walking her Shepherd notices that the little guy selling sweets shrinks from her dog. Leaving the dog sitting obediently, she goes over to the little guy, hunkers down and has a little chat. On cue, the shepherd approaches and she slowly takes the little boy's hand in her own and places it on the dog's head. Moving slowly, they rub the compliant dog's head as one until she slowly removes her hand leaving his stroking the dog. How often do we get to see new friendships start?


... in future, I'd be grateful. Definitely felt the quivering of my lower lip. If there'd been a photo accompanying it, I'd have been a blubbering wreck!

Enjoy the rest of your flight 😉


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## Shadow (28 Oct 2020)

Weird. A couple of days ago I was wondering what had happened to you because we (CC) had not heard from you in a while. Now we know why. Thanks for posting, it made a good read. An uplifting, ultimately, little tale. As Ian above said, glad you have got over your bumpy ride. 
As always, a fascinating insight into life in the city. Your observations are always interesting. 
Love the special tree in the last pic. Others presumably also found it special in order to build a plinth around it. Or was it planted in its own concrete housing to commemorate something/someone?
Looking forward to the next post and reading about the impending decision.
As always, best wishes.


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## Vantage (28 Oct 2020)

Sorry to read of your rough turbulence @HobbesOnTour but glad you landed safely with a complimentary pint of sunshine


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> If there'd been a photo accompanying it, I'd have been a blubbering wreck!
> 
> Enjoy the rest of your flight 😉


Thanks Ian😊
Fear not, there is no photograph! Some scenes can be destroyed with the introduction of a lens.....and I wasn't risking that one!

It was an unusual scene, but not out of character for this place. There's something in the air, it seems, that people take the time and interact with each other in meaningful and respectful ways. 
It was a special moment and I discovered that I'd apparently swallowed a golf ball😊


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2020)

Shadow said:


> Love the special tree in the last pic. Others presumably also found it special in order to build a plinth around it. Or was it planted in its own concrete housing to commemorate something/someone?
> Looking forward to the next post and reading about the impending decision.
> As always, best wishes.


Thank you, Shadow. 
The tree is indeed special but how or why I am still trying to find out.
It's located outside the convent at Churubusco and was the site of the last battle between Mexico and the USA in the war of 1847.
There'll be a post with more detail in the not too distant future and there's a friendly man who mans the Church gates on Sundays that I have a hunch will have some more info - once my Spanish improves enough to understand the details

This city is full of trees and having a plinth is not unusual. Nor is it unusual to see (new) buildings built around an (old) tree! The one photographed is particularly special though. I can't tell you how many times I visited to get a chance to take a photo without people under it! To step under the protection of that tree when the sun is belting down and feel the instant coolness is almost magical. There's a calmness under those branches that's hard to explain - no wonder it's so popular!


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2020)

Vantage said:


> Sorry to read of your rough turbulence @HobbesOnTour but glad you landed safely with a complimentary pint of sunshine


Ah, it was just a bit of turbulence, but thank you for the kind words.
I debated with myself whether to include it or not, but it's part of the journey so it belongs here.
On a regular trip bad places or experiences can literally be left behind, negative thoughts can be dumped on the side of the road never to be seen again (unless dumbass does a big circle!), but this has not turned out to be quite the typical little bike tour 

In the supermarket a couple of days ago I saw some cans of Guinness and thought of you! I'd have bought one and drank it in honour of you and Vantage Snr. but my trangia set is in a corner under the bed and I was just too lazy much of a conservationist 
Thanks again


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## cwskas (29 Oct 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> On a regular trip bad places or experiences can literally be left behind, negative thoughts can be dumped on the side of the road never to be seen again (unless dumbass does a big circle!), but this has not turned out to be quite the typical little bike tour


... a philosopher


> ... I was just too lazy much of a conservationist


... and a humorist.

Willie


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## Shadow (29 Oct 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I debated with myself whether to include it or not, but it's part of the journey so it belongs here.


Quite so. 
It is all these things, good and bad, that make us the folk we are today. Some are memorable, some stay dormant or hidden but still remain part of us. Surely this is one of the principal reasons for these journeys.
I have mentioned it before, so this is merely a reminder when able, I think you (and all other CC'ers who read Hobbes' posts) would really enjoy Kate Harris' 'Lands of Lost Borders'.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2020)

Shadow said:


> I think you (and all other CC'ers who read Hobbes' posts) would really enjoy Kate Harris' 'Lands of Lost Borders'.



It's available on Kindle!!
Downloading a copy as I type!
Thank you!


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## Shadow (29 Oct 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It's available on Kindle!!
> Downloading a copy as I type!
> Thank you!


Hope it lives up to my hype now!! Don’t let it disrupt your Spanish revision!
🇨🇦


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## IaninSheffield (1 Nov 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Date.....Part 1


It sounds like start of a wonderful relationship! Love at first sight? 
What an amazing place! And a splendidly evocative description.
What you've been doing since your enforced but serendipitous rest from travel is, with each post, opening my eyes to the wonders of a location I would never have associated with such cultural, architectural and social wealth. That's doubtless sadly due to my ignorance and eurocentric(?) biases. How ironic though that without this infernal worldwide affliction, you might never have been able to share such detail ... and yet we are (I am!) unable to pursue the possibility of enjoying what this amazing city has to offer because of that very same pandemic. <_How selfish of me 🙁_> One day though ...


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2020)

@IaninSheffield 
Yes! Most definitely love at first sight!

My photo doesn't do her justice, but it's an accurate representation from the day.

Located with a busy artery on one side, most wonderful park (surprise!) on the other, with a vast expanse of space in front, now thankfully usable for people to gather, it's like she has risen from the ground as a beacon of beauty and grace that we should all strive towards!

Don't be hard on yourself with respect to ignorance or Eurocentric attitudes. My experience is less that of a tourist and tilted slightly to that of a resident.

Simple fact is that any news about México is invariably bad. Top news story on the BBC website the last few days is the discovery of 59 bodies in a town.
It's also the same for the UK. And Ireland. And the US. Bad news sells. 
It's a lesson we'd do well to learn, especially those of us on bikes - get out and see the real world - not the fake, mass media representation of it.

There's a trick, though. We need to give ourselves the time to appreciate it too. And once in a strange place, be open to the strangeness, not critical of it. These are choices we make and the further I get away from home (measured more in time than distance these days) I see how the society I come from places different importance on different things. 
This weekend, Halloween to you and I, is the perfect example. There is such a happy, joyful, natural slant on death that is quite different from my own, it is quite simply mind blowing.

If my trip ended tomorrow I don't see how I could have squeezed anymore out of it. This weekend has been that special!

I often wonder if I could wander the city I used to live in NL with the same attitude as here? I know I could do it in the next town over. If I could do it at home? Magical!😊

Sorry for prattling on! This weekend has been delightfully emotional😊


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## CharlesF (1 Nov 2020)

The Date is a brilliant read, I felt was there with you. Maybe your best post to date. Thanks!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2020)

CharlesF said:


> The Date is a brilliant read, I felt was there with you. Maybe your best post to date. Thanks!


Thanks Charles!
There's parts two and three to come.....so I'll have to ask you to keep your distance


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2020)

An interesting video....


View: https://youtu.be/1wxJ4KcFbws


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## CharlesF (3 Nov 2020)

An illicit read during working hours! And was the Blue House worth interrupting work for? A resounding Yes!

I now have some reading lined up for this evening.

As the unofficial Mexico Travel Ambassador @HobbesOnTour is doing a brilliant job of making me want to know more and see it all in real time.

Another compelling read, thanks!


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## IaninSheffield (15 Nov 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Date Part Two.......


I suspect I'm not alone in feeling that @HobbesOnTour's missives are beginning to take on the flavour of Alistair Cooke's Letter from America ... and that's a wonderful thing. A regular treat, awaited with anticipation, and to be enjoyed in all its deliciousness. I only hope, for @HobbesOnTour's sake, that it doesn't ultimately enjoy the same longevity that Cooke's series eventually established. But while it does, I'll continue to look forward his 'Carta de la Ciudad de México'.


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Nov 2020)

Thanks @IaninSheffield ! That's praise indeed!😊

It wasn't my plan to be dragging one day out so much, but when I sit down to write it up from my notes and pictures it just grows and grows.......

It feels unfair not to make some kind of decent attempt to record and describe what's going on around me. This city deserves that, at the very least.

As for the duration? 
I heard of and then made contact with a cyclist who has crossed into Guatemala in the past week. The border is now open again, subject to checks and a clean Covid test.

This leaves me in a bit of a dilemma. Borders can close again (CDMX is on the verge of a shutdown again) and there were enough unpleasant tales back in March/April. And there are a lot of borders in a relatively short distance.
This week was a bit of a rollercoaster with the idea that I can get back on the road, then the realisation that it would be quite different to what I had originally envisaged. 

Lots to think about! In any case, I won't be budging until the current (record!) hurricane season is well and truly over which is December.


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## IaninSheffield (15 Nov 2020)

@HobbesOnTour Not sure whether you can access online BBC World News from where you are, but there's been an incredibly sad story running this weekend, part of which centres on a family in Mexico City:
*Covid-19 evictions: 'Where will I go with my children?'*
I'm sure it must reflect the reality for so many others who are living hand to mouth.


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## cwskas (15 Nov 2020)

What a fabulous photo of ‘The Post Office’. I will have to look up some historical references.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Nov 2020)

Yes, @IaninSheffield 
That is a sad story, far from unique and not new.
Immediately after the lockdown I started hearing these types of stories. It's a difficult concept for most of us to get our heads around that a lot of people are living day to day. One day without work can undermine a domino, more days and that domino falls, setting off the next one and soon it's like a runaway train - impossible to stop.

Yesterday I took a long walk to a large park in the city. There are hundreds of little carts/wagons selling their goods. When the park was Covid closed these folks had no income. When the park reopened they returned but the people stayed away. 
At least now they can make some money.
But they're waiting to see if the Government will shut it again.

Prices for the basics - eggs, milk etc. have risen. That can blow apart domestic budgets.

The people who make their living on the streets have been hard hit. Street entertainers, roadside food, fruit & veg sellers were hammered. 

Peru is a prime example - a very early, hard lockdown yet it is, I think, third in per capita deaths - because so many are so poor they couldn't follow the lockdown rules. México is far wealthier and I can see the effect here - I dread to imagine the effect in other places.
Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua are also contending with a particularly nasty hurricane season.

Yet, despite all that, there are daily examples of people helping each other. The government may not be providing much of a safety net but the people are. Maybe I'm being a patronising dick, but there is a communal, shared responsibility on display that is genuinely heartwarming to witness.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Nov 2020)

cwskas said:


> What a fabulous photo of ‘The Post Office’. I will have to look up some historical references.


That photo was taken through a closed gate!
I'll be back soon and hope to get inside!


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## cwskas (22 Nov 2020)

What a magnificent tour we are having with you as our guide! Beautiful photos, thoughtful descriptions. In these times, my sanity & that of my wife greatly benefit by getting a lot (for me) of miles on the trike and looking forward to your next post.


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## anothersam (22 Nov 2020)

Epic and awesome.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Nov 2020)

cwskas said:


> What a magnificent tour we are having with you as our guide! Beautiful photos, thoughtful descriptions. In these times, my sanity & that of my wife greatly benefit by getting a lot (for me) of miles on the trike and looking forward to your next post.


Thanks, Willie. My best to Kathy.
I might start throwing in some Spanish just to make it more challenging 
I do sometimes wonder if I might be suffering some mental effects from this darn pandemic. I do use the word "wonderful" a lot 
I'm just writing what I see and I realise how lucky I am to have the time to observe so much.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Nov 2020)

anothersam said:


> Epic and awesome.


Thank you 😊


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## Shadow (23 Nov 2020)

anothersam said:


> Epic and awesome.


And Uncle Sam does not use either word lightly. Along with 'iconic', they have become somewhat belittled by over use and inappropriate use.

Wonderful last post Date, IV. Those stairs are magnificent. As cwskas mentions, your personal and detailed vision of some of these buildings are superb. Most enjoyable and educational to read, far better than any 'guidebook'.


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2020)

Shadow said:


> And Uncle Sam does not use either word lightly. Along with 'iconic', they have become somewhat belittled by over use and inappropriate use.
> 
> Wonderful last post Date, IV. Those stairs are magnificent. As cwskas mentions, your personal and detailed vision of some of these buildings are superb. Most enjoyable and educational to read, far better than any 'guidebook'.


Thank you! 
I'm not very good at accepting compliments😊
Truth be told, I enjoy the whole process. And it's not like this city doesn't have inspiration!
Google keeps throwing photos at me from this day/week last year and while it's incredibly frustrating, it's easy to recall the details of each day because I've taken the time to absorb them and write them down. I heartily recommend it to everyone!


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## IaninSheffield (25 Nov 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Day Whatever, Tuesday, November 24, 2020
> The Poem


It's not uncommon for travellers to accumulate mementos of the places through which they've passed. For many, those reminders take the form of captured images, whilst for others it might be knick knacks to adorn their mantel pieces. It's hard to imagine many will have unexpectedly received such a rare and meaningful gift in exchange for a few pesos. And, though your transient friend could hardly have known it, how appropriate for a cycle tourist - so easy to carry and pack!
I truly cannot imagine a better memento of your journey. I think I'd be likely to have that framed when I returned 'home'.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> It's not uncommon for travellers to accumulate mementos of the places through which they've passed. For many, those reminders take the form of captured images, whilst for others it might be knick knacks to adorn their mantel pieces. It's hard to imagine many will have unexpectedly received such a rare and meaningful gift in exchange for a few pesos. And, though your transient friend could hardly have known it, how appropriate for a cycle tourist - so easy to carry and pack!
> I truly cannot imagine a better memento of your journey. I think I'd be likely to have that framed when I returned 'home'.


Yes indeed! Travelling on a bike is hardly compatible with collecting momentoes! And you've seen pictures of my bike

I did pick up a painted skull around the time of the Día de Muertos. I spent a long time looking around and in the end took a long walk to a man with a stall to buy one. As it turned out, his were papier maché, so light as a feather! The stamps in the passport a sign of how far I've come, the skull evidence of a different journey.

The chap yesterday had no clue about me other than I wasn't from his parish, he just rifled through his poems and picked one out. There are local parks where I'm sure the locals have become used to seeing me, but not the park yesterday.

After I posted last night I had a horrible thought that someone may come on here and say "oh, that's such-and-such a poem from What'sTheirName", but it really doesn't matter. In a city of 12 million, an urban area of 20 million, a language barrier, cultural and racial barriers there's something here that makes all those things insignificant.

You're dead right! That poem is staying with me!


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## CharlesF (28 Nov 2020)

Although you painted an excellent picture of Alex’s place, I would love to see it in the flesh, a quick picture next time?


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2020)

CharlesF said:


> Although you painted an excellent picture of Alex’s place, I would love to see it in the flesh, a quick picture next time?


Oh Charles!!
I spent a long time crafting that, polishing the description so that it refelected the place! And still you want more?

I'd love to oblige, but I'm afraid that I can't.
I feel at home there. I'm not a Gringo, not a tourist. I'm Francisco. A regular. I'd be afraid that taking out a camera would shatter that. I'm sorry, that's a risk I'm not willing to take.

However, there was a reason I gave the name of the place and the address in the post!
I'm pretty sure Google Maps/Streetview will illuminate a few more details. 

Happy hunting!


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## IaninSheffield (28 Nov 2020)

Ah, I figured as much! Despite the wonderful description, I must confess that I too wanted a closer look, so took to Google Maps/Streetview to get a sense of the surroundings. If I got the right place, do the washing machines next door add to the ... ambience? 
It's all too easy with no local knowledge to walk past places like this, but with a little spirit of adventure - and perhaps a developing sense of familiarity - to give them a try. Even if it doesn't always pay off, the gems you sometimes drop on make it all worth while.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Ah, I figured as much! Despite the wonderful description, I must confess that I too wanted a closer look, so took to Google Maps/Streetview to get a sense of the surroundings. If I got the right place, do the washing machines next door add to the ... ambience?
> It's all too easy with no local knowledge to walk past places like this, but with a little spirit of adventure - and perhaps a developing sense of familiarity - to give them a try. Even if it doesn't always pay off, the gems you sometimes drop on make it all worth while.


I haven't looked, but the washing machines are a bit of a giveaway

Flying down a hill in Spain one time, I flew through a wonderful aroma. I jammed on the brakes, turned around, struggled back up the hill to the roadside restaurant and pulled in. The menu was handwritten on a blackboard (indecephirable), I couldn't understand a single word the old man was saying, so I mimed me cycling and smelling something good....
Normally I'm not a fan of fish pie, but this one was fabulous!

So much harder to do at home where everything is familiar!


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## IaninSheffield (12 Dec 2020)

Day - blahblahblah
Almost a year?! Cor blimey, where did that go?
Hoping you are now fully recovered from your unwellness and back enjoying the gustatory and olfactory delights of the city's food vendors.
It's difficult to imagine what it must be like living with the possibility of being ejected from one's temporary home or place of refuge. As you've often remarked though, the generosity of your host country and people seems to know few bounds. It's even harder to imagine from the oft far less understanding shores of this country. Almost embarassing.
What an amazing place that post office is! The central post office in Sheffield was a grand building too. Though lacking the same degree of opulence as the one in your photos (obvs), the sense of theatre when walking across the tiled 'shop' floor, and the distant vaulted ceiling never failed to impress. Even so, you win the post office Top Trumps by a country mile.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2020)

Yes @IaninSheffield ! Almost a year! Christmas in Texas, New Year in México! Google is a bo**ix - it keeps reminding me of last year! I think it's a year tomorrow since I found the greatest little backroad in Texas!

The illness passed, but the "feeling good" is only returning now. I've been staying close to home this week.

If I gave the impression that I'm living under fear of deportation or sudden ejection, then I was being too dramatic! The fact is that an overstay will only be detected if I have a run in with the Police, or at the border. I won't be thrown in jail! It just doesn't sit well with me to break the rules of a country that's been so welcoming. 
And yes, it is very different from the attitude in a lot of countries, my own included.
The fact that the lady listened to my situation, had a think, then said "well, we can try this...." was different in itself.
At the risk of repeating myself, being welcome to strangers, being hospitable is a vein that runs right through my experience here. Even when I caught a guy trying to pick my pocket it was such an aberration that it's had no effect on my image of the city.

Yes, the Post Office is magnificent! Yet so normal to the locals. I was wandering around, gazing, just an irritation to people trying to do their business - not that they would express it.
People were looking out the window trying to figure out what the big deal was when I got so excited and tried to photo the Palace of Fine Arts through the window! 
Chatting to the poor guy outside, selling postcards, was a return to the new normality. No tourists means no income for him. I've a pile of postcards here beside me still!
I know there are many such grand buildings that house other public services but I have no business in them, unfortunately. At least not yet!


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## IaninSheffield (12 Dec 2020)

Dog Day Whatever.......

Your posts are always an eagerly awaited treat but this time sir, you have surpassed yourself ... at least in my eyes. The writing was of course up to its usual high standards, the photos were excellent as always, but the topic this time tugged at my heart strings. I've always loved dogs, but since leaving home all those years ago, never been in a position to have one.

The vignettes you described paint a picture of such mutual love and respect between dogs and their owners(?), but also of a understanding of appropriate and acceptable behaviour within the wider community. We're supposedly a nation of dog lovers too and sure, whilst out running I sometimes witness similar events to those you describe, but rarely with the same respect for others sharing the same space. It never worries me when a big, friendly (or otherwise!) beast comes bounding across or tangles itself with my tired, old legs, but for some this can be quite distressing. Yet as often as I encounter owners who are apologetic, there are as many instances where they show little regard for how their charges might be perceived by others.

The more you write about México, the more it emphasises the sense of joint understanding and respect that people share there is often missing in our more entitled(?) population.

Just a few days ago I came across this video of a Méxican cyclist and his companion and _almost_ shared it with you. Now I think I have to.


View: https://youtu.be/1uGhDRLIfIw


Apologies if you've seen it already.

Now I'm (mostly) retired, and having seen videos like the above, maybe it's time to rethink the possibility of a canine companion?


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Your posts are always an eagerly awaited treat but this time sir, you have surpassed yourself ... at least in my eyes. The writing was of course up to its usual high standards, the photos were excellent as always, but the topic this time tugged at my heart strings. I've always loved dogs, but since leaving home all those years ago, never been in a position to have one.


Thank you!😊 Very much!



IaninSheffield said:


> The vignettes you described paint a picture of such mutual love and respect between dogs and their owners(?), but also of a understanding of appropriate and acceptable behaviour within the wider community.



Well, that's praise indeed because that's exactly what I was aiming for.

However, in the interests of objectivity I have to point out that these stories are from this city. In earlier places, I've seen emaciated, undernourished packs of dogs. Leaving the "hotel" early in the morning just outside of Torreon there were three distinct packs of dogs within a couple of hundred yards. Having said that, I was never in danger, so even the strays buy into the social contract.

There is no shortage of "love and respect" on display. A few weeks ago, I was pulled from my Spanish studies by a sudden and loud series of yelps. Across the road, a Doberman, (a feckin' Doberman to me is black, brown and menacing…) leadless, was bounding around and leaping up at his boss. The yelps were of joy and as they trotted away there was no mistaking the adoration on display - and that's across 5 lanes of traffic! A few more sights like that and I'll view a Doberman as black, brown and messing!

It's said that there are no bad dogs, just bad owners and if evidence is needed, then it'll be found here. There's a Pit Bull pup that's a regular in my local park. He's just a pup, but already stronger than most other dogs he meets. If ever the term "gentle giant" applied……
With his dirty white coat, elongated head and pink mouth (it's nearly always open in what I interpret as a doggy smile) he reminds me of Babe, the pig, from the movie. He just wants to be friends - with everyone!



IaninSheffield said:


> Yet as often as I encounter owners who are apologetic, there are as many instances where they show little regard for how their charges might be perceived by others.


I wonder how much attention those owners are paying to their dog as opposed to their phone? That's something here that is noticeably different - rarely are heads buried in phones when they're with their dog. I remember seeing a man and a dog on a beach in Wales. The dog wanted to play, wanted some attention from his boss. His boss was playing with his phone. It made me so angry! And sad.
In the same vein, it's not at all unusual to see one person with several dogs, but not each dog is treated the same. One may be on a lead, another not - a sure sign that the boss knows their dogs. (More often than not, it's the smaller, less threatening dogs on the lead, the bigger, more "ferocious" loose!)



IaninSheffield said:


> The more you write about México, the more it emphasises the sense of joint understanding and respect that people share there is often missing in our more entitled(?) population.


To my way of thinking, that's a reflection of society. A lot of people don't care too much for a lot of other people. 
Here, people care. I see it all over, dozens of times every day. 
There's a lot of respect shown for those on the fringes, not perfect, but certainly more than I'm used to seeing. The musicians, the street entertainers, the people selling snacks in the park, those selling the artisanal crafts, the beggars; they are all "looked after". People listen to them, talk to them. It's very human.
Buying a few bits and pieces around the Día de Muertos I was engaged in conversation that was not simply transactional in nature. The lady I bought flowers from will stay in my memory for a very long time. Again, human.
Here, drivers don't just stop to let me cross the road, they'll wait patiently while I stand in the road taking a photo! If I stop to let someone past I'll get a "gracias" and a big smile. Ever held a door open for someone for them to barrel on through as if it was their right? That doesn't happen here. Human.
And smiles. When the default is to smile, it sets a really good basis for everything else.
When someone responds positively, well, we're more likely to do it again. It's a circle - we can make it virtuous or vicious. That's human too!

It's all the more surprising here, in this country, with its problems. Some of the local stores have a guard armed with a shotgun. Five heavily armed men refill the ATM in the supermarket. Lots of evidence that people should be suspicious, yet little evidence that they are. 
There's a very strong religious belief still, but I'm not sure that's it. 
It's way beyond my knowledge to speculate as to why things are the way they are, but it's very easy to see it.



IaninSheffield said:


> Just a few days ago I came across this video of a Méxican cyclist and his companion and _almost_ shared it with you. Now I think I have to.


Thank you! I really enjoyed that! Normally, I all on for soaking up inspiration anywhere I can find it. These days it's a bit trickier. It can be a reminder of what I'm not doing. But a doggy video? Always welcome!



IaninSheffield said:


> Now I'm (mostly) retired, and having seen videos like the above, maybe it's time to rethink the possibility of a canine companion?


My fella died around about this time a few years ago. He moved back to Ireland after the end of a relationship, but I still got to see him once or twice a year. Had I not headed off, I'd have been out to the refuge, so I can easily relate to your urge. 
There's a genuineness to a dog that is almost unique. There's no artifice or mental games. Feed them, water them, exercise them and they'll repay it in spades. 
Lots of people tour with dogs too, although B****t will make hopping to Europe with one more difficult. It's a life change, but where there's a will…..

*Mi compañero*​


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2020)

IaninSheffield said:


> Your posts are always an eagerly awaited treat but this time sir, you have surpassed yourself ... at least in my eyes.



Well said!


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> View attachment 563096



I love the eyes in this picture. They speak so much!


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2020)

cwskas said:


> I love the eyes in this picture. They speak so much!


The second picture of your "fella".


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2020)

cwskas said:


> I love the eyes in this picture. They speak so much!


Full of divilment!


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## IaninSheffield (20 Dec 2020)

The one with the squirls!
The 70s brought us the rabbits of Watership Down. The 80s followed with moles in the Duncton Chronicles. Thirty years later and you might just have spotted a new niche - Ardillas de Ciudad de México.
There you go, that's another book I've found you could write. Need a literary agent?


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## cwskas (21 Dec 2020)

What a "squirrelly" post! I loved it.

I got some video earlier this year of a couple of squirrels building a nest in the top of one of the pecan trees in my yard. I had watched them for awhile and decided to use the zoom on the video camera to get a better look. They are quite the masters of the trees!


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## cwskas (21 Dec 2020)

I started following your thread about a week after you arrived in Norfolk, I don't remember the exact date, I just remember I read all the older posts in one sitting to catch up.

Yesterday was my one year anniversary ... on CycleChat. I signed up to make my first post asking when you were leaving Austin!

Thanks for all the great reads and thanks to CycleChat for the platform!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2020)

cwskas said:


> I started following your thread about a week after you arrived in Norfolk, I don't remember the exact date, I just remember I read all the older posts in one sitting to catch up.
> 
> Yesterday was my one year anniversary ... on CycleChat. I signed up to make my first post asking when you were leaving Austin!
> 
> ...


Thanks Willie!
I do hope you look around the other fora on here. In my experience online, Cycle chat is by far the friendliest.

I was thinking about leaving Austin over the weekend. The weather turned wet and it was pretty miserable.
A little fella came up to offer me some money outside a filling station/store, thinking that I was homeless. That'll brighten up any wet day!

It's been so long since I actually made a cycling post I'm starting to feel like a fraud😊.

I hope Kathy is doing well and still enjoying my ramblings. Thanks very much for following along and participating on this thread. It's appreciated.


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## cwskas (23 Dec 2020)

Hooray for the extension till January! So nice to see the flowers in the photos, not much color around here these days.


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## Shadow (24 Dec 2020)

No preocuparse!
Again, thanks for another life-affirming post. Enjoy the next 17 days. And feliz navidad.
No preocuparse!


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Dec 2020)

Shadow said:


> No preocuparse!
> Again, thanks for another life-affirming post. Enjoy the next 17 days. And feliz navidad.
> No preocuparse!


Thank you😊


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Dec 2020)

It's not a Christmas tree, but it is a special tree!

Happy Christmas to you all and many, many thanks for all the contributions on this thread. They're all very much appreciated.


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## IaninSheffield (25 Dec 2020)

Seasons cheer to you and yours sir. 🎄
And thank you for keeping us entertained, informed, enlightened and amused throughout 2020.


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## Oldhippy (27 Dec 2020)

Fabulous as always. Can you please write all your adventures in a book with photos! You inspire many I'm sure.


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2020)

Oldhippy said:


> Fabulous as always. Can you please write all your adventures in a book with photos! You inspire many I'm sure.


Good to see a lurker joining the conversation!

Not a hope of this turning into a book! 

They say we all have at least one book in us and this isn't mine!

There's quite a few journals that have been turned into books and frankly, they are never as good as the "live" versions in my opinion.

Thanks for the compliment, though😊


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## cwskas (27 Dec 2020)

>



One of my favorite photos yet! I could spend so much time looking at this ... I bet the proprietor has many tales to tell as well.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2020)

cwskas said:


> One of my favorite photos yet! I could spend so much time looking at this ... I bet the proprietor has many tales to tell as well.
> 
> Willie


He's a bit grumpy, to be honest.


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2020)

Broadening the scope beyond México for a moment, a doggy escapade in Bolivia

https://www.bbc.com/news/av/world-latin-america-55458599


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## netman (1 Jan 2021)

I was inspired to find out a little about Francisco Sosa Escalante after reading...

Couldn't find much, but it is interesting... https://translate.google.com/transl.../Francisco_Sosa_Escalante&prev=search&pto=aue (translation may be a bit dodgy in places!)

Sounds like he would appreciate the street named after him:

"You were the beautiful tree, on whose green branch
The bird, already tired, calmly rested,
And had with your shadow the only happiness that it loves,
Singing its illusions, its sorrows and its love."


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2021)

netman said:


> I was inspired to find out a little about Francisco Sosa Escalante after reading...
> 
> Couldn't find much, but it is interesting... https://translate.google.com/transl.../Francisco_Sosa_Escalante&prev=search&pto=aue (translation may be a bit dodgy in places!)
> 
> ...


Well, that showed me up!

That poem is pretty darn accurate! 
I'll have to redouble my efforts to be able to enjoy it in its original form!

Thanks for doing the reading and sharing!


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2021)

Shadow said:


> How true!
> 
> At some stage, I think you would enjoy _*this*_ book.


The Land of Lost Borders is a fabulous book!
Thank you for prodding me a couple of times
It's not a typical travelogue type book so I think would be interesting to anyone who has any grá all for a bit of travel or adventure, not necessarily in that part of the world.
The author is well equipped to explore those regions, highly intelligent, well read and a very accomplished cyclist, but the narrative flows along, bouncing lightly around from topic to topic, many not cycling related at all - the cumulative effect I found to be inspirational. 

There's a lot of discussion about the advantages of travel by bike and lots of talk of exploration and what it means in the modern world.

One pair of sentences, particularly, struck home.
_"But exploration, more than anything, is like falling in love: the experience feels singular, unprecedented and revolutionary, despite the fact that others have been there before. No one can fall in love for you, just as no one can bike the Silk Road for you"_

Replace "Silk Road" with a local churchyard, a bridge, a river, the coast or México city, don our "exploring head" and a bike ride becomes something wonderous.

Thanks @Shadow !


View: https://youtu.be/aAf3FTOPSEk


Another book I reread over Christmas was "The Brendan Voyage" by Tim Severin (who died in December). It has nothing to do with bike touring but is full of adventure, camraderie, goodwill and inspiration for trying "the impossible".


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## Shadow (6 Jan 2021)

My pleasure - always happy to prod gently! Glad you enjoyed it.


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## Oldhippy (6 Jan 2021)

Reading Land of lost borders now. Enjoying it.


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## cwskas (16 Jan 2021)

I really enjoyed your short review of 2020 in pictures. But it was too short!


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2021)

cwskas said:


> I really enjoyed your short review of 2020 in pictures. But it was too short!


Well, in all fairness, 2020 was a little short in the touring sense!


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## cwskas (23 Jan 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Today
> 
> ... I realised that this crazybeautiful city has just about everything I ever want on a bike tour!
> ... the sense of exploration. I don't want to know every last thing about where I'm going….. I want to find them out - for better or worse.
> ...



Fantastic post!
But next time why don't you tell us how you really feel!
I thought with my tongue jammed firmly in a cheek.


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## IaninSheffield (25 Jan 2021)

Sunday Whatever…….. 

Now you mention it, Sundayness does seem to be a thing. It's the one day of the week which has a different feel to it, a different pace perhaps. Since retiring - and especially in current circumstances - Sundayness for me has been turned down a notch or two, but in México City it would appear to be turned up to eleven. I wonder if the intensity of being in a city where people and experiences are so ... concentrated(?) amplifies the feeling or makes it more vivid? For the cycle tourist mostly on the move and rarely in one place for a single week, let alone months, the likelihood of ever identifying such routines or rhythms must be small. Another advantage of becoming 'de-toured' perhaps?

Can't wait for the 'bin men' post


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Jan 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Sunday Whatever……..
> 
> Now you mention it, Sundayness does seem to be a thing. It's the one day of the week which has a different feel to it, a different pace perhaps. Since retiring - and especially in current circumstances - Sundayness for me has been turned down a notch or two, but in México City it would appear to be turned up to eleven. I wonder if the intensity of being in a city where people and experiences are so ... concentrated(?) amplifies the feeling or makes it more vivid? For the cycle tourist mostly on the move and rarely in one place for a single week, let alone months, the likelihood of ever identifying such routines or rhythms must be small. Another advantage of becoming 'de-toured' perhaps?
> 
> Can't wait for the 'bin men' post


"De Toured"  I like it!!! It works on multiple levels! You're quite the wordsmith!

In a former life I spent far too many Sundays working, (and hated it!) so I always had a yearning for a lazy Sunday.

The weird thing is that when I first got here, all the days blended into one. It was only when I started treating a weekend as a Weekend that it started to dawn on me that it was so different. For me, the effect is noticable as soon as I step outside. All of the tiny car repair places immediately around me are closed. Normally it's a hive of activity and noise, often until late into the night. Sunday? Not a peep!
To digress slightly, a Saturday evening/night in that area is very pleasant. People gathering, some cooking, having a drink or two, a bite to eat and chatting with friends and competitors to mark off the end of another workweek.

I don't think it's turned up to 11 - yet! Damn Covid is seeing to that - but there is definitely something in the air, and it's not bad.

When open, all the Government museums are free to the public (even foreigners like me!) on Sundays.

Binmen will come in their own good time!


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## IaninSheffield (26 Jan 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I don't think it's turned up to 11 - yet! Damn Covid is seeing to that - but there is definitely something in the air, and it's not bad.


Apologies. I didn't mean to suggest the intensity of the activity was overwhelming, just the sense of Sundayness. That sense seems to make itself more apparent, perhaps in the more relaxed, (even) more social way people (and dogs) go about their lives on that day of the week.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Binmen will come in their own good time!


So true!


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Jan 2021)

No need to apologise!


IaninSheffield said:


> That sense seems to make itself more apparent, perhaps in the more relaxed, (even) more social way people (and dogs) go about their lives on that day of the week.


I've been thinking about this the last couple of days.....

Yes, Sunday is definitely a more pronounced example of what I see every day - sociability.

It's the sociability that actually makes it different to other places. 
I can, for example, stop and watch a little brother and sister, both jammed into a battery powered car that has hit a kerb, try to manoeuvre themselves out of their mess and not feel like a stranger, an outsider. Instead I'm likely to get a smile and an eyes to heaven look from Mama or Papa. I, the stranger, am included in some sense.
Similarly, I can stand beside the doggy section and observe all the fun inside without ever drawing an ill look from a human (a dog did announce his disapproval once, following me around until I finally left the fence!)

It's different to parts of Europe, where sometimes it can seem that by virtue of being a stranger in someone's orbit I'm taking something from them. I'm excluded.

That's the magic here. These are not once off events, dependent solely on individuals. These are common, normal and natural it seems. That's what takes the lonliness and scatters it to the winds. The sociability. Especially noticeable on Sundays.

Thanks for prompting me to tease it out.😊


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## cwskas (30 Jan 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Yes, Sunday is definitely a more pronounced example of what I see every day - sociability.... sociability that actually makes it different to other places.... The sociability. Especially noticeable on Sundays.
> 
> Thanks for prompting me to tease it out.😊



Well done you two!


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## cwskas (30 Jan 2021)

In your last post it was interesting to see your _paired down_ touring setup ... without the trailer.
And as odd as it may seem ... it was for me sentimental to see Hobbes in your pictures.


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Jan 2021)

cwskas said:


> In your last post it was interesting to see your _paired down_ touring setup ... without the trailer.
> And as odd as it may seem ... it was for me sentimental to see Hobbes in your pictures.


He was so clean in those days!
I miss him too. 
It was interesting going through the photos of 2020 and realising that Mazi appeared a lot less than Hobbes would have. Apparently, I have some kind of a psychological bias!😊 In fairness, he's bigger and more cumbersome (but then again, so am I). I've made a promise to myself to include him more when I'm back on the road...... Altrhough, he may have to share the limelight......... 

I've rarely ridden a "pared down" rig! I've always seen myself as practising for "the big one" since I bought Roccado.
Other than the weight of the trailer, there wouldn't be a huge weight difference between both setups. The trailer spreads the load, improves flexibility of loading options, increases manoeuvrability on dodgy surfaces and gives me a spare wheel - something that has already helped


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## IaninSheffield (7 Feb 2021)

Doggy Day Whatever.... Again!

Another welcome observation of canines cavorting in the Cuidad.
I've been pondering whether the pooches in your adoptive city are different from the ones over here. I can't recall ever seeing dogs and their humans gathering in parks in the ways you describe. Perhaps I've just never noticed, or more likely, I've spent too little time in cities where the need to seek out limited(?) public recreational spaces is perhaps more pressing. 
Given the way folks seem to get along and are considerate of one another, should I assume owners clear up after their dogs or is fouling a problem?

And apologies in advance, but dare I say I find Frida just a little bit scary? I think it might be the eyebrows 😲


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Feb 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Doggy Day Whatever.... Again!
> 
> Another welcome observation of canines cavorting in the Cuidad.
> I've been pondering whether the pooches in your adoptive city are different from the ones over here. I can't recall ever seeing dogs and their humans gathering in parks in the ways you describe. Perhaps I've just never noticed, or more likely, I've spent too little time in cities where the need to seek out limited(?) public recreational spaces is perhaps more pressing.
> ...


Everything is different, Ian
And the dogs speak Spanish!

I lived in a city in NL +/- 200,000 souls and no areas like here for dogs. In the main park on the edge of the city where I brought my fella he was supposed to be on lead. I'd take him down at dawn to chase rabbits. They terrified him! People could be very funny about their dog interacting with another - or maybe it was just my fella!

In Ireland, some parks have areas where dogs can be off-lead at certain times.
Here, the parks have fenced, equipped (seats, tunnels, seesaws etc) doggy specific areas - and dogs wandering freely everywhere else too! 

I am bemused. I regularly see people training their dogs, but honestly I think they are just being fussy! The dogs are already 99% there.

When I see the dogs running loose beside a bike or a jogger and following every cue I'm dumbfounded at the process that got them there. And also at the Bosses! I'd be freaking out!😊

I've seen one dog fight in all my time here. 
The 2 boyos in the park really stood out for their behaviour. 
There is no fear and no reason for fear. The woman with her child in the park was not fazed at all. 
It's both funny and interesting to see a bull terrier getting his ass handed to him by a terrier or shi tzu. 

I can only speculate, but there is a very relaxed, we're-all-in-this-together vibe and a real sense of live and let live. I assume the dogs pick up on that. If people are relaxed, chances are their dogs will be too.

Fouling happens, but is incredibly rare, especially in relation to the numbers of dogs. Everyone is equipped with poop bags. 

So Frida's scary?
Her monobrow is famous!
It wasn't my plan to call her Frida but nothing else worked. No other name stuck. So, I think it was chosen for me rather than by me!
Nothing wrong with having such a formidable character on the road!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Feb 2021)

Oops!
I nearly forgot!
Google created a collage of Squirrel Hunter!





His buddy (bottom right) just sat calmly ignoring everything.....


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## cwskas (14 Feb 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> So Frida's scary?
> Her monobrow is famous!
> It wasn't my plan to call her Frida but nothing else worked. No other name stuck. So, I think it was chosen for me rather than by me!


I am very pleased to have been introduced to Frida! Definitely for you and not by you!


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## chriswoody (14 Feb 2021)

Interesting post today about your inspirations, in this day and age we have access to so much information. It made me reflect on my own inspirations and how I started touring in a more analogue age with much more limited access to other peoples adventures for inspiration. For me it all started in the mid eighties when my Mum bought me a second hand 10 speed Raleigh Winner, I absolutely loved that thing and rode it all over North Devon where I grew up.

Then came a time when I had exhausted all of the day rides around and yet I still had a huge yearning and thirst to know what was over the furthest hills and see for my self where the lines on the map led too. I decided along with a close friend to do what naturally comes next and buy a rack and some cheap panniers. So at the ripe old age of thirteen, we asked our respective parents for permission to undertake a five day bike tour, to our surprise they agreed! I really don't know what inspired me, other than a thirst for adventure and a desire to see over the horizon. We set off and covered about 250 miles I think, around Northern Cornwall. I do remember being told by our respective parents to sleep in an official campsite every night, however, the campsites often forbid any one under 18 to camp without parents, so we ended up stealth camping in small copses more often than not.

That trip led to a life as an Outdoor Instructor where expeditions where a common feature of my life, Canoes, Sea Kayaks, Feet and Bikes where all means of transport. Inspiration came from all around, friends, colleagues, books, magazines and just a good old desire to explore the different spaces on a map.

Nowadays, I'm no longer working in the UK Outdoor Education sector, however the urge to explore has never been greater. Moving to Germany and particularly this Northern corner, I had to recalibrate my ideas about what wild spaces looked like. The forests and gravel riding became my new means of connecting with the wild spaces around. Then I discovered through cycle chat a reference to a bike packing website and subsequently discovered the world of bike packing, which nicely dovetailed with gravel riding and exploration that lay at the core of my ethos for traveling. 

With the global pandemic and the climate crisis I have started to look much closer to home for inspiration and realised that I have never really explored the country I now call home. I now have four local routes, two of which start on my doorstep, to explore in the coming year or years. The internet has certainly opened up lots of possibilities for new inspiration and following others in their adventures. However, for me, my primary inspiration has always been the intrinsic desire to explore and connect with nature in wild and remote spots.

Anyway, sorry for the long and rambling post in response to your thought provoking write up on your own inspirations. It's always fascinating to hear what inspires us to under take the journeys we do.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2021)

Oh, please, Chris, don't be apologising! This is the chat thread! All chat genuinely welcomed!

Thanks for sharing your inspiration!

It's funny, because I had a similar experience to you as a 13/14 year old. Myself and a friend took a train to the opposite end of the country and set off on a bike tour of 4-5 days. In my case, at least, it wasn't an urge to enjoy the outdoors or nature - it was first and foremost a way to get away from a very restrictive upbringing and to have an adventure.
For some reason, I don't count that as my "first tour".
What's also interesting, is that I got permission! Originally there were three of us, but the one with the most "liberal" parenting regime was forbidden!

For you, it led to a career (if I'm understanding correctly), for me it led to........nothing😊

It is amazing what can be on our own doorstep - if we open our eyes. After about 15 years living in NL, I started going out on a bike and started to see the country in a totally different light.

I was sure camping as an adult would be a horrifying experience and now I'm pretty sure it's my favourite part of the whole package! (The danger of preconceptions!)

From my own experience, inspiration is really the key. 
I remember as a kid being made to play the trumpet. All classical music. I hated it and dropped it at the first opportunity. Looking back, I wish that I had access to (or someone had shown me) all the different styles of music I could play if I had the basics. 

You had the basics, then found bikepacking and everything clicked.
And now you get to inspire the next generation! 
I think that's brilliant!

Rugby's over (sigh), sun is shining so I'm off out on the bike. It may not be "touring" but riding a bike here? Now that's an adventure!

Thanks again.


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## IaninSheffield (16 Feb 2021)

View: https://youtu.be/-FXZbNqo-do

Saw this and it instantly reminded me of ...


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## cwskas (24 Feb 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> View: https://youtu.be/-FXZbNqo-do



That dog's has some moves!


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## cwskas (5 Mar 2021)

Congratulations on your extension! Fooled them again! (That last sentence is sarcasm.)

Your concept and reality analogy (17 and not 17) is spot on. I can relate.

I pray your arms recover quickly. 

Willie


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## IaninSheffield (5 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Crash Boom Bang Day Whatever.....


Oh my.
OH. MY!
There was more excitement(?) recounted in that single post than I'd want to experience in a whole raft of tours!

I think though, on balance, taking all into consideration, and injuries notwithstanding, that was a win ... just.
Excellent news that your visa has been further extended, your Spanish continues to grow in strength (_think how useful that will be when travel once more becomes possible_), and your familiarity with CDMX (both its geography and its bureaucracy) have been enriched.
But the results of your accident sound like they've been a right ... well, pain! Although I've been fortunate that cycling accidents have never broken me quite that badly, a couple of rugby injuries briefly left me dependent on others until I made accommodations and learned to manage the pain. I can't imagine how difficult that would be, away from all the support structures. Impressive resilience sir.
It did set me wondering though how you stand with access to healthcare? Do you have direct (and free) access to the Mexican 'system'? Is the travel insurance you presumably originally took out still valid, and can you renew it, given the advice you received way back when to return home? Will you be able to be vaccinated when one becomes available?! Until your accident I hadn't thought about this strand of your predicament.

Wishing you a full and speedy recovery ... and that porridge can once more return to its rightful place in your diet.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Mar 2021)

I think you may be suffering from Lockdownitis! It wasn't that exciting!

But definitely a win!

Having lived in NL I have had more than a few run ins with bureaucracy so I have a natural (I think) apprehension approaching something like a visa extension. However, as I've said before, there's something in the air here and despite having to go hither and tither and do a lot of waiting there's a humanity on display that keeps me calm. 

I'm probably on the "world's whingiest patient" list, somewhere near the top, but when I'm on my own there's not a lot of point in complaining

As for the logistics.... 
My (health) insurance is still valid. It will not be possible to extend the policy. Two years was the maximum. (I'm currently looking for an alternative).
There are "levels" to the system here so decent insurance is advisable for travellers. Covid is putting pressure on everything, everywhere. An example here is that it has pushed up the amounts not covered by Insurance (for all) with the result that some people can't pay enough to "get into" the system, or have relatively large debts after they get out.
If I need to, I'm supposed to contact the Insurance Co. and follow their instructions as to which hospital etc. to use.

A vaccine is more complicated. The roll out here is "interesting" and erratic. I'll be looking to "buy" one, if and when available. 
It's interesting watching all the bickering going on around the world. Other than Australia & New Zealand (I think) how quickly one country gets vaccinated is not really going to make a difference on a global scale. 

What's not clear (to me) is if the vaccine (or one of them) protects me _and_ stops me carrying the virus. It doesn't sit easily with me that I may be a carrier.

Also, down the road, a vaccination cert may be necessary to cross borders. (I have noticed some countries now demanding proof of health insurance to enter since Covid struck). Given the way things can change, vaccinations may become out of date or different ones may be more acceptable or effective than others.

The simple fact, though, is that without a decent (health) insurance package past September the balance of probabilities is that it's too risky to continue. I'm not 17 anymore!

The way I look at it, any injury or illness that requires a hospital is now a lot riskier than before due to the Covid effect.

All changed, changed utterly: 
A terrible beauty is born. (A bit of Yeats).


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Mar 2021)

cwskas said:


> Congratulations on your extension! Fooled them again! (That last sentence is sarcasm.)
> 
> Your concept and reality analogy (17 and not 17) is spot on. I can relate.
> 
> ...


Thanks Willie!
The right arm is getting back to normal, the left, especially the elbow, is proving more obtuse! 

17 was great! Freedom was beckoning, doors started appearing where before there were solid walls. There were lots of opportunities, lots of exploring to do. 
I'm not quite ready to give up on that yet!


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## CharlesF (5 Mar 2021)

What a great piece of writing, my arms were sore just reading your travails. As I read I thought “how can Hobbs post such cheerful pictures when he is in a world of pain”. Then I read the end and the happy experiences (despite the toing and froing) with the Immigration officials - that’s why the pictures were cheerful!

I do hope you’re getting back to normal.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Mar 2021)

CharlesF said:


> What a great piece of writing, my arms were sore just reading your travails. As I read I thought “how can Hobbs post such cheerful pictures when he is in a world of pain”. Then I read the end and the happy experiences (despite the toing and froing) with the Immigration officials - that’s why the pictures were cheerful!
> 
> I do hope you’re getting back to normal.


Always good to hear from you Charles!
I hope that's hyperbole - the last thing you're needing is a pair of sore arms!
But thank you for the compliment!

In fairness, taking photos was all but impossible, most of those are from just before I fell off. 

And a bad day is always made a little better with some clips of Frasier or Whose Line is it Anyway on Youtube


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## CharlesF (13 Mar 2021)

I’m guessing that the purple flowered trees are Jacarandas, a bit of nostalgia for me.


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2021)

CharlesF said:


> I’m guessing that the purple flowered trees are Jacarandas, a bit of nostalgia for me.
> View attachment 578403


Oh wow!!!!
Where was that?


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## CharlesF (14 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Oh wow!!!!
> Where was that?


My home town, Harare Zimbabwe (aka Salisbury Rhodesia)


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## cwskas (16 Mar 2021)

Another fine post with beautiful pictures. The pear trees around here are really captivating now. I love spring.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Mar 2021)

cwskas said:


> Another fine post with beautiful pictures. The pear trees around here are really captivating now. I love spring.


Thanks, Willie
But ......
I do have to ask .....
Where are _your_ pictures?

You've mentioned your pecan trees before and now pear trees! Show us what we're missing!


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## Dwn (18 Mar 2021)

I’ve come to this very late indeed but over the last couple of days I’ve been catching up on your travelogue (I’ve got to the point when you are arriving in Mexico City).

I’m sure that you’ve been told this many times, but what an absolutely amazing trip - and very brave to be heading into places off the beaten track. 

I’ve driven a few times in the USA and it’s always struck me that the level of aggression from other drivers is just appalling; I’m not surprised that you were treated to badly on a bike. I love the USA, but it can be a very odd place in many ways; familiar through language and culture, but quite alien in lots of other ways.

Your experience of Mexico and its citizens absolutely chimes with my own (in a much smaller way, of course). In 2014 I was doing quite a lot of international travel with work and many of the cities I visited were not as exotic or interesting as I hoped. Mexico City was the big exception; I expected a sort of third rate Los Angeles but it was one of the best places I have ever been to, and utterly different to Europe or the USA.

I had been in Sao Paolo a few weeks previously and didn’t enjoy the place at all; it felt ugly and unsafe at night. I I expected that Mexico City would feel the same, but in fact my wife and I walked all over the centre at night without ever feeling at risk. And everyone was super helpful; we would go back in a heartbeat.

Of course, it was very hard to square this with the savage butchery going on in many parts of the country. You wonder how such a friendly people can harbour so many horrors amongst themselves.

Looking forward to catching up on the rest of your travelogue!


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Mar 2021)

Whoah!!!! @Dwn 
Two days to get to CDMX?? I suggest you slow down!

I don't want to spoil the rest of your reading but CDMX does not disappoint!

Here's the funny thing about touring (at least for me), I'm struggling to recall any aggression in the US at this point. Or, to be a bit more accurate, I can recall some details, but there's precious little emotion. On the other hand, I have a vivid, warm recollection of a little Hispanic boy trying to give me some money outside a petrol station. 
Only this morning I was thinking about the lady (ooops! forgot her name😊) who welcomed me into a campground after a really bleh day on the roads. She gave me dinner! And beer! Ah, you gotta love Texas!

As for the darker side of this great land, I'm working on something on paper. I'm no sociologist and can't claim to understand it. Conversation with people is still Covid limited. There are some desperately brutal events, some terribly sad and others that are beyond scary! I deliberately don't dwell on it for fear I'll never move again and don't write too much because some people are already worried enough.
Big lesson though, as you already know, is that we normally only get the bad news.

I think you've got your first tour coming up? Belgium, I think? 
Be careful! That was my old stomping ground! You never know where the road will take you!

By the way, I highly recommend keeping a travelogue (publishing is up to you). It's a great way of keeping track of all the little details that otherwise get forgotten. 

Thanks for the kind words and enjoy the rest! Slowly!


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## cwskas (21 Mar 2021)

Dwn said:


> I’ve driven a few times in the USA and it’s always struck me that the level of aggression from other drivers is just appalling; I’m not surprised that you were treated to badly on a bike. I love the USA, but it can be a very odd place in many ways; familiar through language and culture, but quite alien in lots of other ways.



According to Wikipedia the contiguous United States occupies an area of 8,080,464.3 km2 (3,119,884.69 sq mi).
Mexico covers 1,972,550 km2 (761,610 sq mi).
The 27 member states of the EU have a combined area of 4,233,255.3 km2 (1,634,469.0 sq mi).

From https://www.ga.gov.au/scientific-to...formation/dimensions/australias-size-compared







My point is that when talking about any large area as an entity, it is so easy to miss the *vast* *variation* of people, topography and culture.

Willie


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## Dwn (24 Mar 2021)

Just reading about your dilemma on which way to go, given the continued prevalence of COVID-19. It’s difficult to see how countries will vaccinate a large proportion of their populations this year - unless they happens to be wealthy states. And I’m getting the sense that vaccinated countries are going to do an Australia / NZ and heavily restrict international arrivals for fear of new COVID variants. 

Personally, I’d head for whatever seems most like home, since I don’t think South America is going to see mass vaccination until 2022 - at best. However, I also wouldn’t have been bold enough to head off on your tour in the first instance - so what do I know!

A tough decision for you, but I’m sure you’ll make the right one.


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## IaninSheffield (25 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I made up my mind on one of the (many!) walks between the Immigration offices and home


May I refer my right honourable friend to the subtitle of his travelogue?


HobbesOnTour said:


> I have two basic options:
> Back to Europe or continue.


Only two? Might there be some middle ground?


HobbesOnTour said:


> México, from what I can see is pretty open so I could move around here. That's still a risk though, riskier than my current lifestyle, and always the risk of lockdowns kicking back in.


How much more risky than being in the city?


HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not thinking of going back to Europe yet.


A smart move!


HobbesOnTour said:


> I don't have anywhere I _really_ want to go


Do you need to revisit _*why*_ you set out on your Big Trip in the 1st place and to what extent those reasons are still valid? Maybe you've achieved many of the things you wanted ... and more? If there are still places you want to see, the possibility or likelihood that you'll be able to do, at least in the forseeable future, are sadly small. So what *can* you do that is manageable, achievable, fulfilling and mitigates risk? For example, could you (afford to) stay where you are, but do some small-scale, relatively local, short-duration touring? See (a little) more of Mexico, push your boundaries somewhat, gain new experiences/challenges, yet have the stability and safety net of a base to which you can return?

Going to Columbia, Ecuador, the Andes, or even Europe, don't really appear to be viable options (yet) so perhaps you just need to freshen things up and revitalise your touring desires to stave off the staleness for when things improve?


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## Shadow (25 Mar 2021)

Good post, Ian. Something along the lines of what I was thinking, more eloquently put!


_HobbesOnTour said:_
_I don't have anywhere I _really _want to go_

One of the main themes you often re-iterate while you have been in CDMX has been your desire not to follow the road you are on if you wanted to go up a side street, only to discover some other magic. Could you knot follow this own instinct of yours over a wider area, e.g. more of mexico, it is a large and diverse country by european standards or a journey back north into some of the lesser known states of the US or even further north into canada? (This last option is probably too far to go by bike because it would be time to head south again by the time you got there to avoid its impending winter!)


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Mar 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> May I refer my right honourable friend to the subtitle of his travelogue?


That made me laugh! 
Thank you!

I do think getting back on the road is riskier. I'll have a lot more contact with people, for one, and I won't know where the nearest hospital/clinic is for another. 
Now, whether that risk translates into real harm is another discussion.
(I'm not forgetting my potential to be a spreader either).

You're absolutely right, there is a middle ground and it's no harm to shake myself up and and ask the "why" question again. I have ticked off nearly everything on my (loosely organised) list. Perhaps that needs to be redone.

@Dwn , thanks for the positive words. On my bike there are no right and wrong decisions I'd do terrible damage to myself if was cycling along thinking about my wrong ones!

@Shadow thanks for pointing out the (very obvious) contradiction in my thought process! 
You're right, of course, but on a day's rambling I always have the safety net of the apartment to come back to (when I eventually find it!) Loading up and rolling off "feels" different this time. It feels a lot more of a trip into the unknown than when I was leaving home.

It's interesting, a year ago the USA (and Canada eventually) were an option, but the idea barely popped its head up this time before I dismissed it. Sure, I'd go back to Texas in a heartbeat, but I can't drum up any enthusiasm for anywhere else.
In my original plan, the US and Canada were going to be big parts, I know the places to go, the general routes to take, but I can't drum up an ounce of enthusiasm for them. Rightly or wrongly, my focus is south.

And that's the troublesome word - focus. 

I need to adjust my focus! 

I'm off to give that a shot!

Thank you!


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## rich p (27 Mar 2021)

I don't know if you have underlying health conditions but what are the consequences of heading south in truth.
All right, you may get Covid and suffer badly from it!
Or you may not catch it if you're careful or lucky!
Or you may catch it and have something similar to a bad cold for a week!
The latter is what happened to me, by the way, and is the most likely consequence.
Take a punt?


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## Dwn (27 Mar 2021)

I’m not sure that I’d worry about catching COVID-19, since for most under 70’s it isn’t too bad. My worry would be another health issue or an accident happening in a place where the local health systems were in disarray because of the high incidence of COVID cases. And not sure about border closures as you work your way south. A horrible cliche, but no easy answers


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Mar 2021)

rich p said:


> I don't know if you have underlying health conditions but what are the consequences of heading south in truth.
> All right, you may get Covid and suffer badly from it!
> Or you may not catch it if you're careful or lucky!
> Or you may catch it and have something similar to a bad cold for a week!
> ...


I can understand the instinct to just hop on the bike and ride off…..
But here are some of the things I'm weighing up;

While I am reasonably confident that Covid may not be fatal for me, any (non Covid) event involving medical care is a whole lot more complicated;
A dose of "long covid" scuppers everything;

I am not in my natural environment. Temperatures this weekend are due to hit 45C. If I go to Colombia and continue south, after a few weeks I climb to 3500 meters and pretty much stay there for a few months with occasional dips and peaks above 4000 meters. I'm not a medic, but even a "mild" dose at those heights can't be pleasant;

I'd imagine there's a difference between suffering a dose at home and in a strange country, possibly on the side of the road. A sweating, coughing, foreign cyclist may not get the greatest of welcomes.
(Peru, a country of great heights has one of the highest per capita death rates.)

There's logistics too. In a constantly changing situation it's important to stay on top of news. Crossing in to a "no travel" state could annul my insurance. Because my current policy predated Covid I have pretty good coverage, but I do have to be careful. And I will need new coverage shortly. New policy, new rules.And staying up to date in a (still) foreign language? Not the easiest.
Throw into the mix the fact that I will most likely have to pay up front for any medical treatment (then claim from insurance), and the fact that oxygen cylinders, as an example, are in such short supply that people have to pay large amounts as a deposit simply "having" insurance may not be such an advantage.

Crossing borders has become tricky. Ignoring the increased criminality inspired by border closures, rules about vaccines/quarantine/tests can be changeable. Currently the Belize & Guatemala borders are closed to all but essential traffic. Sure, I might be able to bribe my way across, but pay for it at the next border.

Finally, there is the general security situation. All over these parts criminality has surged in the past 12 months. Cartels have used the desperation of people to expand territory, more desperate people flee for the border. (I'm not necessarily talking about the US border. México is doing huge work with people surging up from Central America, Colombia is making similar efforts with people fleeing Venezuela. These are stories barely mentioned in mainstream European/US media).
Very simply, those who made their living robbing travellers (mainly in RVs) have a much smaller market these days. A cyclist may not have been worth the risk or effort before, but now who knows? 
Or, if before, 1 out of 100 touring cyclists got mugged (or worse) what are the odds now with practically none on the roads? 
And a lot more people are a lot more desperate than before. Two hurricanes and disastrous flooding last year have left many, many people in Central America, Guatemala especially, in circumstances I can't even imagine. Ditto Venezuela, Ecuador & Peru. I'm well aware of horror stories from the last two.

Colombia did seem the safest bet. No real security risk until the south (although that can change quickly. Anyone know that the Colombian Government is dropping bombs in its own country?)
Up to three months (possibly extended) before crossing a border, at least two large cities en route, well connected, for bail out options. Weather that won't kill me. 
But an effective dead end at the Ecuadorian border. 

Apart from all that, there is the possibility that I could carry the virus and spread it, not something that sits well with me.

Finally, what would the touring be like? After a year (365 days today!) of teaching myself Spanish I can think of few crueler fates than being shunned or avoided on my journey.

However, latest news today is that it may be possible to buy a vaccine in México from the middle of the year. 
Negotiations have taken place, terms are being trashed out - the first movement since the first week of February.
Given that time here is much less precise, even later in the year still leaves some options open.

Thanks for making me set it all out.


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## IaninSheffield (28 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I particularly enjoyed this mural on a (double) garage door


I'd have that on my garage door!


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## cwskas (28 Mar 2021)

> this is México - normal rules don't apply.
> Maybe I'm being conned by most of the people all of the time, but I really don't think so. There's a genuineness here that is not common.
> 
> For a place with next to nothing this restaurant has got atmosphere.



Your last post really brings back memories.

Willie


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## Dwn (28 Mar 2021)

cwskas said:


> According to Wikipedia the contiguous United States occupies an area of 8,080,464.3 km2 (3,119,884.69 sq mi).
> Mexico covers 1,972,550 km2 (761,610 sq mi).
> The 27 member states of the EU have a combined area of 4,233,255.3 km2 (1,634,469.0 sq mi).
> 
> ...


That’s a fair point - my driving in the USA has been on the west coast, so it may be pretty unrepresentative. And even within that, LA was definitely a worse place to drive than San Francisco (in my limited experience).

For what it’s worth, even in the UK there are quite big variations regionally in terms of driver courtesy.


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## IaninSheffield (28 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Pass up a chance for some doggy time? Not me!


If I remember rightly, podcasts aren't your thing, but Episode 201 of 'You Are Not So Smart' involved an extended interview with Kate Leaver, the author of 'Good Dog'. The interview - and presumably the book - involved a number of incredibly touching stories which perhaps go some way towards explaining our desire canine connections and companionship.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Mar 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> If I remember rightly, podcasts aren't your thing, but Episode 201 of 'You Are Not So Smart' involved an extended interview with Kate Leaver, the author of 'Good Dog'. The interview - and presumably the book - involved a number of incredibly touching stories which perhaps go some way towards explaining our desire canine connections and companionship.


Thanks Ian.
I tried to listen last night but I fell asleep😊
I'll try again tonight!


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Mar 2021)

cwskas said:


> Your last post really brings back memories.
> 
> Willie


Hey, Willie!
This is the "chat thread" 
You can't come in, drop the "memories" line and toddle off again!

Have you navigated by the moon?
(Were you one of the Magi?)
Have you been seduced by a smile? 
Or do you just like a good baked potato?


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## IaninSheffield (29 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Thanks Ian.
> I tried to listen last night but I fell asleep😊
> I'll try again tonight!


😄
Maybe give it a go the next time you're in a park watching the antics.


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## Dwn (29 Mar 2021)

Your Mexico City posts have brought back some great memories of the week we spent there. I only got to Coyoacan for one evening, but absolutely loved it.


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2021)

Dwn said:


> Your Mexico City posts have brought back some great memories of the week we spent there. I only got to Coyoacan for one evening, but absolutely loved it.


It's looking like you were there around the time of the Day of the Dead. 
The plaza in the background has been closed since I arrived in June.

The dead figures in the seats are interesting. Back in October/November restaurants had seating limits. I thought they were using the figures to fill spaces, but clearly not!


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> 😄
> Maybe give it a go the next time you're in a park watching the antics.


I was out for a walk tonight and I was listening to a podcast about a dog - but alas (not really!) it was in Spanish!

Look up Negro Matapacos, a Chilean street dog who has become the face of civil protest for a moving doggy story! 

By the way, that mural you like has contact info on it!


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## IaninSheffield (30 Mar 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was out for a walk tonight and I was listening to a podcast about a dog - but alas (not really!) it was in Spanish!
> 
> Look up Negro Matapacos, a Chilean street dog who has become the face of civil protest for a moving doggy story!
> 
> ...


Negro Matapacos - that's one feisty canine!

Hadn't spotted that handle & hashtag, but unfortunately they don't appear to be too active. The artist's name is top right though - Leo Tezcucano. I suspect works like that might be rather out of my price bracket though. 😉


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Negro Matapacos - that's one feisty canine!
> 
> Hadn't spotted that handle & hashtag, but unfortunately they don't appear to be too active. The artist's name is top right though - Leo Tezcucano. I suspect works like that might be rather out of my price bracket though. 😉


Well, I'm not the one with a Yorkshire reference in my handle, but I reckon a flattery filled email could knock a few pesos off the price! 
My understanding is that such an idea is what drags you folk out of bed in the morning!
Then, you could look for the canine to match the door!


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## cwskas (4 Apr 2021)

OK, I stand chastised.

I spent a lot of time in Mexico during one phase of my life. My wife and I almost moved to Guadalajara to give our 5 children under 13 extended exposure to a different culture and intensive Spanish training. My job changed and that was no longer a workable option.

What we liked best was the genuine kindness and sense of welcoming we felt from almost everyone we met. The fabulous food (I was especially fond of one open air restaurant that offered a blackened tuna that still makes me drool just thinking about it) … the casual atmosphere … the large markets containing countless small sellers of just about anything you can imagine … all still bring smiles to our faces.

I acknowledge this comment is only slightly better (maybe) than the first.

Willie


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## cwskas (26 Apr 2021)

> Apparently, I'm going to be on Mexican TV tomorrow morning! And I don't even have a tv!
> Being on tv wasn't what got me excited - it was doing a short interview in Spanish and not making a total eejit out of myself!



Maybe we can catch it on YouTube! 



> _My amor, the Palace of Fine Arts_



Hmmm, did you get yourself a drone for that picture? Very pretty view!

Thanks for the update, it came just before I was headed to sleep. Very nice pictures and commentary as usual.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Apr 2021)

cwskas said:


> Hmmm, did you get yourself a drone for that picture? Very pretty view!
> 
> Thanks for the update, it came just before I was headed to sleep. Very nice pictures and commentary as usual.
> 
> Willie


Thanks Willie!
No drones!
The photo was taken from atop this beauty...





That's the Torre Latino, the first skyscraper in Latin America.
It looks a bit dated and dilapidated now, but then I have to remember it's in a "seismically interesting" area


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## IaninSheffield (29 Apr 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Every Sunday, from 8am to 2pm the City Government hands over 23 prime kilometres of street to cyclists. Volunteers and Police man the junctions, access roads are taped off, volunteer tents are set up approximately 4 or 5km apart for repairs.



Since this Sunday city bike ride seemed like a 'thing', I went searching. The "Muévete en bici" apparently, but what an amazing facility(?)/event(?)/experience(?).

I look to the Netherlands for cycling which is embedded in the national psyche - something like the Muévete probably isn't needed there? Bike-friendly cities such as Portland, Oregon have annual bike festivals such as Pedalpalooza, and more regular rides, but nothing I'm aware of on the scale of the Muévete. If I had to name a city that gave over so many km of its streets to cyclists, once a week, every week, and had been doing so for 14 years(!), CDMX would not have figured in my top ten guesses. Perhaps that says something about my ignorance of other cultures, especially those where English is not the primary language? Or perhaps it says something about our lack of ambition and poor attitude towards cycling in the UK that nothing remotely of that scale exists here. Perhaps it's linked with all of the other accommodations and allowances that people generously make for one another that you described in this and many of the other posts - the Muévete is just one more manifestation of Méxican-ness?

The night rides sound like they might be worth checking out, if you have the chance.


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## Shadow (29 Apr 2021)

Another fascinating post, HOT, thanks.

Returning to your future, of what/where you would like to go next on your adventure. [Previously, I had mentioned back north of the border. I apologise, as I was partly imposing ideas of what _*I*_ would like to do. I know some parts of the US and canada very/quite well and would like to explore more, by bike or otherwise].

_"If it hasn't become clear yet, I'm finding México to be a very friendly and welcoming place,..." _So, again, why not explore other areas of this country you have found yourself living in far longer than originally imagined?


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Apr 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Since this Sunday city bike ride seemed like a 'thing', I went searching. The "Muévete en bici" apparently, but what an amazing facility(?)/event(?)/experience(?).


It is all of those things!
A wonderful facility, a fun, uplifting event and definitely something to experience. 
Without meaning to be big headed, I've cycled in some great places - Sunday in CDMX is up there with the best.



IaninSheffield said:


> I look to the Netherlands for cycling which is embedded in the national psyche - something like the Muévete probably isn't needed there? Bike-friendly cities such as Portland, Oregon have annual bike festivals such as Pedalpalooza, and more regular rides, but nothing I'm aware of on the scale of the Muévete.


There's no need in NL, although I am aware of 1 or 2 day rides.
However, groups of students (on school trips) or retirees are regular sights.
But.... My understanding is that back in the 50s/60s local governments made town centres traffic free on Sundays as a part of a move to using cars less. The Dutch infrastructure and attitude to cycling is something that has been fought for, built up, planned for. 



IaninSheffield said:


> If I had to name a city that gave over so many km of its streets to cyclists, once a week, every week, and had been doing so for 14 years(!), CDMX would not have figured in my top ten guesses. Perhaps that says something about my ignorance of other cultures, especially those where English is not the primary language?


Ian, I was here & didn't know about it! I looked online, saw it was postponed due to Covid, and had a completely distorted view of what it actually was!
Ignorance can be a hard word. 
Remember, my initial response when I saw it was puzzlement. It was only when I actually joined in that I actually "got it". 



IaninSheffield said:


> Or perhaps it says something about our lack of ambition and poor attitude towards cycling in the UK that nothing remotely of that scale exists here.



That's a toughie. 
There is a different attitude here to bikes - they are a part of normal, every day traffic. People work on them.

( One thing I left out of the post had to do with the typical "workbike" here in the city - an old, battered MTB with a large, steel rack at the rear to carry crates of cargo. I'll see a few of those on a Sunday, crate gone, a cushion in its place and some father-child time being enjoyed - the majority of passengers are girls! )

But there's a wider societal difference too. The biggest difference, to my view, is a lack of (critical) judgement of others. People give and receive the benefit of the doubt all the time.
I'd imagine that any attempt to get something similar off the ground could easily get bogged down in training volunteers, insurance, rules - covering all the negative bases, in other words. I mean, could volunteers set up tents and carry out repairs without insurance?
Similarly, how would dogs react? And people to dogs?

I did post recently about increased cycling infrastructure in European cities due to Covid. The response wouldn't be classed as optimistic. On a cycling forum!! Imagine what a Daily Mail reader would make of it!

If ever there was a time to get a popular bicycle event off the ground, surely it would be the summer that a pandemic is winding down when lots of people have gone out and bought bikes?
Is it not true that a lot of towns and cities are dead on Sundays due to out of town shopping centres?

A thing I think that is worth remembering is that the membership of a cycling forum is a teeny tiny subset of people who actually ride bikes. 



IaninSheffield said:


> Perhaps it's linked with all of the other accommodations and allowances that people generously make for one another that you described in this and many of the other posts - the Muévete is just one more manifestation of Méxican-ness?


Yes! 
The things I see on a Sunday are the things I see every day - basic respect, good manners, inclusion, smiles and a little craziness.
The things I don't see on a weekday, things like anti-social behaviour, also are absent on a Sunday.

I made a point last Sunday to slowly cycle past the grumpiest, meanest looking Policeman I saw on the route and say "Gracias". In an instant I received a beaming smile.

I'd challenge even the most cynical anti-cyclist to wander (even on foot!) the route on a Sunday and not be moved by all the sights to be seen.



IaninSheffield said:


> The night rides sound like they might be worth checking out, if you have the chance.


Riding at night is fun in this place!!Life threatening, but fun!


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## Shadow (30 Apr 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Riding at night is fun in this place!!


That is something - night riding in large cities - I would recommend to any cyclist!


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## cwskas (1 May 2021)

> _An early morning bike ride is a great way to see firsthand . . ._



A fitting description for your whole post! It is so refreshing to find a time and place where there are few motorized vehicles (or none) and a relaxing, energizing ride. I always smile when I see someone riding their cycles, even when I am confined to my car.

Thank you once more for sharing your observations and photos. You have truly become a blogging ambassador for CDMX!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (2 May 2021)

cwskas said:


> A fitting description for your whole post! It is so refreshing to find a time and place where there are few motorized vehicles (or none) and a relaxing, energizing ride. I always smile when I see someone riding their cycles, even when I am confined to my car.
> 
> Thank you once more for sharing your observations and photos. You have truly become a blogging ambassador for CDMX!
> 
> Willie


Thanks Willie. I'm just writing what I see - this place is inspiring in lots of ways.

I keep thinking about your comment about taking your family to México for a couple of years.
I understand that it was a while ago and things may not be the same, but it would have been a very interesting experience.

I find the kids here to be very open, very smiley and chatty. No evidence of a fear of "stranger danger". If I spent as much time hanging out in parks in NL as I do here, I'd probably be arrested!  Here, kids (and their parents) aren't spooked by this stranger.

The parks are full of kids and like the dogs, they all get along with no problems. And amused with such simple things! 
A ship must have arrived from China because the last couple of weeks there has been an explosion of "bubble guns" that shoot out millions of bubbles. The fun such a fundamentally simple thing generates is infectious! 

I pulled up at a skateboard area recently to watch. Teenagers flying around on skateboards and bmx bikes and not an ounce of any anti-social behaviour. Just kids having fun. Out of about 80 kids, only one, a girl, had any kind of safety gear. In other places they'd need padding from head to toe to take part.

Just tonight, in my local park, after dark, two little sisters, I reckon maybe 6/8 years old, are rollerblading up and down a ramp right beside a basketball/soccer space. A group of teenagers, guys, are having a hectic game of football right beside them. There's no swearing (that I can tell), no negativity, just two very different groups side by side without a problem. Oh, anyone walking up or down the ramp are careful to avoid the girls - no complaints like "you shouldn't be here". 

It's different. Good different.

Of course, the flip side is that there are a lot of kids working or selling things. There's a cabin/shop on a lake in the Bosque de Chapultepec with a delightfully friendly woman. Her son, probably about 12, spends his weekend working with her. 

If comfortably off, I think there are a lot of positive things that kids could pick up here.


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## cwskas (2 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I sometimes wonder about myself, if I'm descending into some cavern of madness or dementia. . . . I don't think anything in here is going to disprove that thought.


Does cyclechat have a survey option? 



> 400 days of preparation & Tabare


Definitely preparation. I suspect we all knew you were at the starting line, waiting for the starter to fire his pistol for the next race! stage of the adventure! Tabare seems to have been the starter!



> There's a romance to his story that is just so hard to resist. He loves riding his bike . . . His attitude is infectious . . . One of the greatest joys of travelling on a bike is the ability to live in the moment, to savour the present, the here and now. I reckon Tabaré has become the master of that!


 . . . sounds familiar!



> México! It's feckin' great (and Uruguay must be worth a visit too!)


The crescendo is building, the conductor lifts his baton . . .



> I'm hitting the road again!



And there it is . . . the audience goes wild!

Willie
who is now off for a ride!


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## IaninSheffield (5 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm back on the road and there's no going back!!


Cor blimey! So you _are_ off then?
Can't imagine what it's like spending such a long stretch on a motorway without being yelled at ... or arrested! And the thought of a driver 'having your back' rather than screaming blue murder at you being in his way ... well, that's plainly another universe entirely!
Are you sure you didn't post this whilst still in a dream?

Wonderful to see you (although no travelling companions?) back on the road. It'll be interesting to see what difference your newly acquiired linguistic skills bring to your experiences in the boondocks. Wishing you tailwinds and downhills whenever they're needed.


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## CharlesF (5 May 2021)

I feel your pain Hobb when starting cycling again! Great that you are back on the road, I can get Google maps and Wikipedia working as I follow the route.


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## netman (5 May 2021)

Lovely to see you back in the saddle @HobbesOnTour ! Wishing you happy travels...

"Until one is committed, there is hesitancy, the chance to draw back, always ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth, the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans. That the moment one definitely commits oneself, then providence moves, too. All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred." _William H Murray_


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## HobbesOnTour (7 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Cor blimey! So you _are_ off then?


Probably more of a linguistic device. I've no idea how things will turn out and a return to CDMX is not off the table. 
It was just emphasis that this phase is on




IaninSheffield said:


> Can't imagine what it's like spending such a long stretch on a motorway without being yelled at ... or arrested! And the thought of a driver 'having your back' rather than screaming blue murder at you being in his way ... well, that's plainly another universe entirely!
> Are you sure you didn't post this whilst still in a dream?


Ah now! I thought you were following along! Riding a bike in México is nothing like riding a bike anywhere else!

And Sí, a little Spanish is already enriching these little escapades!

And here's a pic of one travelling companion, outside the Azteca stadium in CDMX


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## HobbesOnTour (7 May 2021)

CharlesF said:


> I feel your pain Hobb when starting cycling again! Great that you are back on the road, I can get Google maps and Wikipedia working as I follow the route.


If you're reading Wiki, you'll probably have more info than me! 
Don't be afraid to share it!

Oh, check your PMs - there's a surprise in there for you!


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## HobbesOnTour (7 May 2021)

netman said:


> Lovely to see you back in the saddle @HobbesOnTour ! Wishing you happy travels...
> 
> "Until one is committed, there is hesitancy, the chance to draw back, always ineffectiveness. Concerning all acts of initiative (and creation), there is one elementary truth, the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans. That the moment one definitely commits oneself, then providence moves, too. All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred." _William H Murray_


Thanks @netman 
I firmly believe the head is the most important "piece of kit" for a bike tour. 
Sometimes, it's just like a starter motor in a car, just needed to get us going.
The sentiment is 100% correct. We can't possibly know what to expect until we get out there.And when we do, things have a way of working out.
Thanks!


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## HobbesOnTour (7 May 2021)

I may be out of Internet coverage for some days. No panicking please


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## cwskas (7 May 2021)

Finally had a chance to catch up ... and you had already posted 3 times! A great way to start my day. Now it is off to take care of business that must be done before the weekend. How mundane!

Willie


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## Cathryn (9 May 2021)

I can't believe you're not in Mexico City any more  Your photos were beautiful and have given me a great desire to visit....especially in jacaranda season.Stunning.


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

cwskas said:


> Finally had a chance to catch up ... and you had already posted 3 times! A great way to start my day. Now it is off to take care of business that must be done before the weekend. How mundane!
> 
> Willie


Willie, you're going to have to ration yourself!


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

Cathryn said:


> I can't believe you're not in Mexico City any more  Your photos were beautiful and have given me a great desire to visit....especially in jacaranda season.Stunning.


The truth is my photos, even the edited ones don't do the city justice! 😊
I believe I was blessed by the Touring Gods to have that time there. The only thing I'd say to anyone thinking of visiting is to allow time to do nothing - that's when the magic happens and the only necessity to pack is a smile - it will open so many things and be repaid a thousandfold.


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## cwskas (11 May 2021)

> There's a beauty in a lot of things if we take the time to stop and look.


Amen!



> A route not around two volcanoes but right between them! If things worked out, I'd get to camp! But first, there was a monster climb (to me) to get out of the way. I reckoned about 1200 meters in less than 30km.





> About 9km in I came to my first little food stall. . . . I had chicken with melted cheese served in a blue tortilla, washed down with cafe de ola, a Méxican coffee . . . Lovely and smooth.
> 
> But of far, far more value was the chat, the interaction, the observation. . . . Three women and two kids running the show. Open every day. . . . The stove!
> 
> We talked about where I came from, where I was going, about the volcano, the weather, the pine trees, why I was doing this alone. (The absence of a wife and children is always an interesting topic of conversation). A lovely, lovely time.



Your description made me feel almost like I was there. So thankful that you are on the road again and taking us along with your narrative skill!

Willie


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## Pat "5mph" (11 May 2021)

@HobbesOnTour I have moved your post in the main thread, as requested.
I must admit that im very behind in following your adventures, must make time for this most enjoyable read asp!
Pat


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

Pat "5mph" said:


> @HobbesOnTour I have moved your post in the main thread, as requested.
> I must admit that im very behind in following your adventures, must make time for this most enjoyable read asp!
> Pat


Thanks @Pat "5mph" , sorry for being a klutz!
Hopefully that troublesome knee is better and with Spring up there and a bit more freedom it's  time!


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## chriswoody (11 May 2021)

Great to see you back on the road and enjoying your riding. In that last entry, some of those roads look like the kind of thing I'd be riding! 

I spent 6 weeks in Mexico, nearly 20 years ago now, I wasn't cycling, but working for an overseas expedition company. I can remember some of the places I visited, but I really must go and dig out my notes to check out some of the places I did go. Your trip is bringing back some good memories though, it certainly is an interesting country. One place that really does stick in my mind though was the train ride through the Barranca del Cobre, a slightly touristy thing to do, but stunning none the less. Hope it continues to go well for you and I'll keep an eye out for your updates.


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

chriswoody said:


> Great to see you back on the road and enjoying your riding. In that last entry, some of those roads look like the kind of thing I'd be riding!
> 
> I spent 6 weeks in Mexico, nearly 20 years ago now, I wasn't cycling, but working for an overseas expedition company. I can remember some of the places I visited, but I really must go and dig out my notes to check out some of the places I did go. Your trip is bringing back some good memories though, it certainly is an interesting country. One place that really does stick in my mind though was the train ride through the Barranca del Cobre, a slightly touristy thing to do, but stunning none the less. Hope it continues to go well for you and I'll keep an eye out for your updates.


Thanks Chris! I was thinking that you'd love some of those roads! Especially downhill! There were times I was a tad envious of your bike and typical loading! And a buddy with one of those elastic tow ropes would have been handy on the way up!

I'm familiar with that train trip. There are some bikepacking routes up there too! Unfortunately, while the train route is deemed safe, the area surrounding it, is troublesome, to say the least. 

I'm glad to read that good memories are stirring up!

Thanks!


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## Shadow (13 May 2021)

_"...entirely blue! I have no idea if this is the famed Bluebird..."_

I thought you were taking pictures during your travels!! 
(not just of the trees and views!)


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## HobbesOnTour (14 May 2021)

Shadow said:


> _"...entirely blue! I have no idea if this is the famed Bluebird..."_
> 
> I thought you were taking pictures during your travels!!
> (not just of the trees and views!)


I saw the bird twice (or two different ones). The first time in a tree, too far away to grab my phone, the second time hopping on the ground beside me. Sorry! I wasn't risking scaring him off!


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## IaninSheffield (17 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *This, though? Very Mexican!*​





HobbesOnTour said:


> *C R A Z Y !! Not a mention anywhere that this might happen. I talked to a couple of Policemen in Orizaba about how confusing it was *​



'*Jings, Crivvens, Help ma boab!'* or '*What in the name of all that's holy...!!!*'


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## IaninSheffield (17 May 2021)

I wonder if I’m the only one who’s found @Hobbes’ posts since leaving CDMX …? Disconcerting? I’ve been casting around to think why. The general structure has changed little if at all, and the quality of writing sustains its high standard. So why did recent posts make me feel so unsettled?
Perhaps the content? Posts composed during the enforced ‘rest’ period became regular treats - welcomingly anticipated, comfortably familiar, reassuringly (mostly!) positive. Over the handlebars airborne antics and visa renewals aside, there was rarely a sense of hazard or peril. And in these times especially, that was heartening, at least for me as a reader.

Now back on the road and all that’s changed. Who knows what’s around the next bend or over the next crest? Will the road that’s indicated on the map be rideable … or even there?! When and where will food, water and a place to sleep be found?

It’s taken a few posts but at last I’ve managed to rationalise things. Isn’t it always the same when setting out on tour, at least for the first few days? It takes a while to settle into the rhythm of the road and becoming accepting of whatever it generously (or grudgingly!) provides? Of course there will be highs and lows (often literally!); touring life almost obliges us to ‘treat those two impostors just the same’, whether it’s a simple, spicy, and lovingly prepared meal, or a broken pannier rail.

I hope @Hobbes is taking as much delight in his onward journey as I’ve begun to settle into reading his unfolding account. Where next I wonder?


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## netman (18 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I wonder if I’m the only one who’s found @Hobbes’ posts since leaving CDMX …? Disconcerting? I’ve been casting around to think why. The general structure has changed little if at all, and the quality of writing sustains its high standard. So why did recent posts make me feel so unsettled?
> Perhaps the content? Posts composed during the enforced ‘rest’ period became regular treats - welcomingly anticipated, comfortably familiar, reassuringly (mostly!) positive. Over the handlebars airborne antics and visa renewals aside, there was rarely a sense of hazard or peril. And in these times especially, that was heartening, at least for me as a reader.
> 
> Now back on the road and all that’s changed. Who knows what’s around the next bend or over the next crest? Will the road that’s indicated on the map be rideable … or even there?! When and where will food, water and a place to sleep be found?
> ...



That's interesting... I was the opposite! The longer @HobbesOnTour was in CDMX, the more disconcerted I got! I felt a large sense of relief once the cycling recommenced  Not sure what that says about me! Maybe wanderlust is programmed in to me...


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## IaninSheffield (19 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Tomorrow will be a belt and braces pannier repair, new cassette, new chain and new rear gear cable


None of that would be a big deal ... when at home! But crikey, on tour?
If the pannier problem is the one you illustrated with a photo recently, I'll be interested to see how you effect that repair. It looked like you needed replacement screws/bolts?
And do you carry a cassette lockring tool, plus appropriately large spanner on tour? Again, crikey! Or, knowing you might have to change the cassette, did you pick up the tools in CDMX?
I know this is mundane chit chat compared with the bigger picture stuff, but I'm always keen to learn how folks deal with mechanicals whilst away.


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## HobbesOnTour (19 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> None of that would be a big deal ... when at home! But crikey, on tour?
> If the pannier problem is the one you illustrated with a photo recently, I'll be interested to see how you effect that repair. It looked like you needed replacement screws/bolts?
> And do you carry a cassette lockring tool, plus appropriately large spanner on tour? Again, crikey! Or, knowing you might have to change the cassette, did you pick up the tools in CDMX?
> I know this is mundane chit chat compared with the bigger picture stuff, but I'm always keen to learn how folks deal with mechanicals whilst away.


I'm happy to answer pretty much any question, so fire away!

Look, I'm as mechanically inept as they come but I trained myself to do all the basics on this bike.
It really is the great advantage of an old bike - simple technology and I'm not afraid to get in and have a go.

Yes, the pannier issue is the same. Last time 3 of the 4 screws came loose, this time all of them. Because I nabbed it instantly the screws were safe and the other bits inside.
The fact is, I was not happy with the spares so, yes, I got metal bolts, nuts and washers. 
I did read once of a guy advocating that everyone should replace the plastic "bolts" ortlieb use.

I'll be checking daily as I go along now and hopefully prevent the same happening again.

I can't really fault Ortlieb - I'd have no problem recommending them to anyone (but not my newer ones).
They have been subject to a lot of violence the last few days - all that feckin' rumblestrip!

As for the cassette, I do have a lockring but no chain lock thingy for leverage. That's a trip to the bike store to get it loose. 
(There may be times when I will carry an extra cassette far from likely spare parts stores. In that event I'll use my existing chain for leverage).
I have an adjustable spanner, not huge, but not small. 
I always carry a spare gear and brake cable. The only fault I can find with Roccado is the cable for the front derailleur can be a bit exposed. I think I have changed the front gear cable 3 times on "tour". 

I've read of folks changing out every nut/bolt to a uniform size so that they can carry one hex key. That's great! Until you need a spare and it's different!

I also have a crank extractor, used twice so far, once the day I was at the Wright Brothers thingy, and one of my last days in CDMX on a fully loaded shakedown ride.
A little girl nearly fell off her bike when her pedal came off. Her mother was trying and failing to fix it, so I offered my help. Seeing the problem, I told them I had the tool, dug it out of my panniers and fixed it on the spot.
For that little girl's reaction alone, it's been worth the weight.


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## IaninSheffield (20 May 2021)

Thankss for that detailed response. Hope writing it didn't take time away from the repairs themselves 😉


HobbesOnTour said:


> They have been subject to a lot of violence the last few days - all that feckin' rumblestrip!


I came across them occasionally in NZ. 'Orrible things!
To me it would make more sense incorporating them with the white line itself, thereby providing an earlier warning for the errant driver.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Seeing the problem, I told them I had the tool, dug it out of my panniers and fixed it on the spot.


I see a bright future as 'Mobile Bike Repairman'👨‍🔧


HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm happy to answer pretty much any question, so fire away!


You may come to regret that!
Another rather mundane, perhaps even intrusive, aspect of touring is cost. Can I be frightfully rude and ask what your daily expenses are like in Mexico? A typical simple hotel for example? A meal from a roadside vendor, or from a simple 'restaurant' in the evening? Thanks.


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## cwskas (20 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I wonder if I’m the only one who’s found @Hobbes’ posts since leaving CDMX …? Disconcerting? . . . Posts composed during the enforced ‘rest’ period became regular treats - welcomingly anticipated, comfortably familiar, reassuringly (mostly!) positive. . . . Now back on the road and all that’s changed. Who knows what’s around the next bend or over the next crest? Will the road that’s indicated on the map be rideable … or even there?! When and where will food, water and a place to sleep be found?


I too was enjoying the regularity of the posts and was thoroughly entertained by the excellent descriptions of the people and the places of CDMX.


IaninSheffield said:


> I hope @Hobbes is taking as much delight in his onward journey as I’ve begun to settle into reading his unfolding account. Where next I wonder?


I am glad he is on the road again, and enjoying pictures of new places, all of which are new to me now, having never been south of CDMX. I am spending more time looking up where he is and info about the area.

All the tools and spares he carries makes me wonder where he puts anything else!


HobbesOnTour said:


> For that little girl's reaction alone, it's been worth the weight .


And once again a clear indication of why he does what he does.

Willie


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## IaninSheffield (21 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


>


What an amazing building!

Just had to find out more about it, but didn't get much further than...



> Built in the XIX century, this property was known as “La Casa de los Altos”, because at that time this was the only two-level house in the whole city of Tehuacán. The owner was José Domingo Rodríguez de Apresa.
> 
> Some years later, the house was confiscated by the church when it was known that it was bought using tithes. It was originally given to The Franciscan community, however, they decided not to use it. Years later it was offered to the Government but they couldn't take care of it, so it remained abandoned.
> ...
> Inside this Moorish style building you will find a mural painting that describes the history of the town named “The 5 Regions of Tehuacán” Take a close look at this painting, it covers a space from top to bottom, arches included. You will also find another one that honors one of the most popular personalities of Tehuacán and that is named “A New World”.


There's a more detailed account here with some interesting historical images for comparison.

What's intriguing me, and what I haven't been able to find, is what significance the text under the arches has.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> What an amazing building!
> 
> Just had to find out more about it, but didn't get much further than...
> 
> ...


Uh oh! I'm being fact checked!

I saw the text but I was so tired that I couldn't follow along! 

I am not one of the people who needs to know everything about everything, I just know what I like! And I loved those arches!

The guard was of no help and seemed amazed that I was spending so much time there!
In fact, it's quite common for folk to show little appreciation or awareness of some of the stunning beauty I see. 

Case in point; I pulled in at a viewing point yesterday, high up in the mountains. A white wall to lean on and admire the view. Right below the wall, this....




Rubbish everywhere!
Not posted as a criticism, just the reality. I think Ireland in the 70's and early 80's was similar

Thanks for the links. It appears y'all are doing more research than me!
I didn't even bother to look up Tehuacán in my guide book. 😊 I preferred to wander and see where I ended up.

I'm going to return to your "disconcerting" post. I wanted to see if anyone else chimed in. 
And the costs. 
I just need a bit of time and internet that doesn't take 15 minutes to load a photo


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## CharlesF (22 May 2021)

Great to catch up with your adventures. I might have missed it, but why no trailer?


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## HobbesOnTour (22 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Another rather mundane, perhaps even intrusive, aspect of touring is cost. Can I be frightfully rude and ask what your daily expenses are like in Mexico? A typical simple hotel for example? A meal from a roadside vendor, or from a simple 'restaurant' in the evening? Thanks.



Ok! I asked for it! 

Not being a smartass, costs vary. 

Because there are different currencies involved, I'll list prices in pesos. I calculate 20 pesos as being roughly equivalent to €1.

I'm paying up to 300 pesos for a room at the moment. Sometimes 200, 250, 280. 300 is kind of my internal limit. I could probably save some money by timing my arrival at a Love Motel just in time for sleeping!
I remember paying 500 in Tequila and thinking "pricey"! But it was a lovely room!

I have no idea what effect Covid is having on prices. 

It's worth remembering too, that if there were two of us I'd be paying the same price for a hotel room. 

Also, I have seen bloggers talk about haggling. In a former life I was a pretty mean negotiator but I either can't or won't bring that skill to bear here. These are very tough times.

I like AirBnB for multiple days. It can be cheaper than a hotel, Wifi is generally better.
Booking.Com gives a good indication of prices in an area. To my surprise, sometimes it's cheaper (not by much) than what the hotel asks for.
One significant advantage of both is the ability to pay for accommodation without cash and (especially) the need to hand over my credit card. Both are a great backup. I had never used either before this trip. I use Expedia too, but rarely as it seems to have less hotels where I am.

I've never seen breakfast offered.

Camping can be as little as 50 or 60 pesos. (60 in the Ecovillage, 150 in the Trailer Park with the best showers & toilets I've seen in México!)

Food varies.
It's the Mexican thing - great disparities in very short distances. 
"Proper" restaurants have menus with prices, roadside places generally don't. I don't believe I've been diddled yet.
Yesterday, I paid 70 pesos for some very good mole with turkey, rice, beans, unlimited tortillas and a half liter bottle of soda. 
A few days earlier, I was charged 30 pesos for 2 filled tortillas with Chorizo and cheese and 2 cokes. I argued about this! Way too cheap! I paid double. 
A liter of fresh OJ (I mean squeezed in front of me) can be had for 30-40 pesos. 
My chicken lunch the other day was 75 pesos - half a grilled chicken, potatoes, rice, salsa. 

Basically, the cheapest is from a stand (no seating). Price has little correlation to quality that I can see. 

Choosing a place to eat can be a bit complicated. I prefer where I can sit outside, under shade. I prefer to avoid crowded places, for Covid and also for the interactions. I do like a cold drink and not all places have fridges and of those that do, not all work!
For example, the "restaurant" that gave me my breakfast leaving the Ecopark had no fridge (nor electricity), but a channel was dug in the cool wet mud and a variety of soft drinks and beers were buried up to their necks. Remove, wipe and serve a cool drink! 
It seems strange but it's interesting how we adapt.

I have to admit to having a particular skill, it seems, in picking out good places to eat. I am rarely disappointed. 

Coffee can be had from a street vendor for 8 pesos. A latte at a trendy coffee place (if I can find one can be 6 times that).
I do like my coffee and sometimes will sit at a coffee shop (Not feckin' Starbucks!!) and sip a little luxury and watch the world go by.

I always tip, minimum of 15%, often more. 

Tim Tower on CGOAB gives very good details. I think he budgeted for about $25 dollars per day. That's a good indicator in my book, but it could be done cheaper.

The thing with budgets, in my experience, is to avoid the trap of knowing the price of everything and the value of nothing. Theroux in his "Old Patagonian Express" absolutely went to town on what we would call backpackers for their attitude to finances.
I see reviews and comments, especially on IOverlander of people (constantly) whinging about prices and costs. It's not a good look. 
I've stayed in or eaten at some of the finest places where I'm little more than a number. And I've arrived into a little hotel, panting, sweating and wheezing to check in only to be given a cold glass of cider. Priorities!
To me, there is no way to put a value on that.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 May 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Great to catch up with your adventures. I might have missed it, but why no trailer?


Hola Charles!
The absence of the trailer is preparation for a post-Covid world that may mean more hopping, skipping and jumping than originally planned.

No fault with the trailer, I really like it and reccommend it to anyone with a bike who may want to tour without the need for a new bike. (The new models look pretty cool). 

I had little chance to test it out with my current equipment before leaving (six months on a floor will do that!). As a result, the tent is just a tad too heavy for the trailer. 

This is my way of testing to see if I need the trailer. Personally, I prefer the handling with the trailer, but with the tent on the front now it doesn't make much odds.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 May 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I wonder if I’m the only one who’s found @Hobbes’ posts since leaving CDMX …? Disconcerting? I’ve been casting around to think why. The general structure has changed little if at all, and the quality of writing sustains its high standard. So why did recent posts make me feel so unsettled?
> Perhaps the content? Posts composed during the enforced ‘rest’ period became regular treats - welcomingly anticipated, comfortably familiar, reassuringly (mostly!) positive. Over the handlebars airborne antics and visa renewals aside, there was rarely a sense of hazard or peril. And in these times especially, that was heartening, at least for me as a reader.
> 
> Now back on the road and all that’s changed. Who knows what’s around the next bend or over the next crest? Will the road that’s indicated on the map be rideable … or even there?! When and where will food, water and a place to sleep be found?
> ...


Hmmmmm…… Interesting! 

I think there is something to what you say. I had been dwelling on the same thought in Orizaba. 

There has been a higher than usual level of anxiety. 
I wasn't sure how being a rambling tourist was going to be perceived (thankfully no negative experiences to report).
I can't overstate how at home I felt in CDMX. Leaving that comfort provokes its own anxiety.
I'm not physically in shape and have had some pretty tough, intense days. I find myself quite tired.

It's not like me to be this anxious other than normal "first day" nerves which rarely last past the first pedal stroke. This anxiety, though, I can feel in my belly. It's there, it's real, although this past week has eased a lot of it (you haven't read it yet!)

Also, there have been relatively few "normal" cycling days. Too many days were too intense, although that is easing up now. Intense days limit my "being in the moment".

There is a certain disjointedness to my posts as well. CDMX spoiled me for Internet. On the road posting is very, very slow. About 3 hours per post.

I think I'm suffering a bit from not having a "destination" - and yes, I know how "woe is me" that sounds. I'm heading south but at some stage I'll have to turn around. 
I'm not sure what coverage is like in other parts of the world, but in Colombia, for instance, there have been serious riots because poor people can't cope with Covid. I can see such things spreading through the continent and from a completely selfish point of view, messing up my plans. (Yes, I know how horrible that sounds). It also raises the question if cycle touring in a pandemic is morally justified. I tell myself that CDMX was getting noticeably busier in the run up to my departure. On the road or there, there really is little difference.

Finally, if I'm honest, I'm also a little lonely. The places I'm hitting are all touristy places, much more enjoyable with company. Charleston, Austin, San Antonio nobody would have wanted to be with me  - I knew what I wanted to do. That's different now. (I know, more woe is me!).

But…. I'll take it as a big compliment if you got the vibe that there was something disconcerting in my posts! It means that they're a pretty accurate portrayal of what's going on! 

On the plus side, my limited Spanish is opening so many doors, windows and gates along the way that this part is a very different journey to what came before. 

Now, @netman , what was disconcerting about my CDMX posts?


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## cwskas (23 May 2021)

I have thoroughly enjoyed your posts since you started out again. I am really enjoying the pictures as well and the character sketches of persons you have encountered along the way.

I love visiting new places and seeing new sites. Reading your reports isn't as good as being there . . . but almost!

Willie


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## netman (23 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> <snip>
> Now, @netman , what was disconcerting about my CDMX posts?



Ah, no! Nothing disconcerting at all - I thoroughly enjoyed them, but it was like I was getting itchy feet on your behalf! The pandemic has made many things seem slightly unreal and rather 'not normal', I guess I just feel life is a little more 'normal' with you back on the road @HobbesOnTour!
Please don't ever underestimate the value of your posts to us stuck in one place with jobs, rent, bills etc.! Through you we can dream of adventure and the open road - truly inspiring . Safe travels...


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## HobbesOnTour (23 May 2021)

@cwskas & @netman 
Thank you both for the kind words😊


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## CharlesF (23 May 2021)

In your latest post, I got all excited and looked for Roy Rogers in the brilliant pictures. No luck there!!


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## cwskas (24 May 2021)

netman said:


> ... it was like I was getting itchy feet on your behalf! The pandemic has made many things seem slightly unreal and rather 'not normal', I guess I just feel life is a little more 'normal' with you back on the road @HobbesOnTour!
> Please don't ever underestimate the value of your posts to us stuck in one place with jobs, rent, bills etc.! Through you we can dream of adventure and the open road - truly inspiring . Safe travels...


Well said, netman!


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## cwskas (24 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There's no earthly reason I should have enjoyed the day as much as I did. Incredibly slow progress in sustained heat and sun, occasional bouts of being unwell, disappointment of non-existent stores, hard, hard physical effort, but this was different country, beautiful in its own way, firing my imagination, filling in images to scenes read long ago.
> 
> Small acts of kindness from random strangers when all the advice is just "No!". There was little traffic so at times I felt so alone, just an explorer, pitting himself against nature - and coming out the other side.
> 
> I arrived exhausted, but elated.



What an adventurous, long *(14 hour!) *day. Fantastic, rugged scenery!

I really liked the first and last pictures. And also the picture of Rocaddo resting (posted on Strava).

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (24 May 2021)

cwskas said:


> What an adventurous, long *(14 hour!) *day. Fantastic, rugged scenery!
> 
> I really liked the first and last pictures. And also the picture of Rocaddo resting (posted on Strava).
> 
> Willie


Thanks Willie! And for posting the extra photo.  Roccado did a lot of resting!


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## cwskas (26 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> flying down the many hills, even going up was fun! I took a tope at full speed - amazing fun - but I won't be doing that again!


That pretty well sums up your day. 

Great fun to read.

Willie


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## cwskas (28 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There's something about sleeping in a tent that wakes up some kind of inner child in me.


I identify with that.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I've a balcony outside my room, excellent internet and my plan was to relax, eat, savour a cold beer and watch a little HIGNFY.
> For a change the plan succeeded!



Relax . . . savor . . . recharge!

This may be my favorite door so far!

And what a beautiful shot this is with the light coming through the trees!

Willie


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## cwskas (28 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Chocolate and coffee are products from here too. I did not know this when I arrived but there is a chocolate hotel here!!
> Unfortunately, not made of chocolate!











HobbesOnTour said:


> My poor hostess in the AirBnB asked me this morning what I thought of México - she's lucky I ran out of vocabulary after about 10 minutes!


Did she have a chance to participate in the conversation? 

Willie


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## cwskas (28 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Monte Alban: I went, I saw, I got a little bored but was saved by trees and lizards!


Frida & Mazi don't look bored! And they don't have *any say* in where their guide takes them! 

I have never had a tour of ancient sites like this, but really stand in awe of the people and times behind them. I visited Teotihuacan many times, but always by myself or one other and on my own to read and take pictures.

I did have a guided tour with two friends once of Chapultepec Castle in Mexico City. But it was by an indigenous guide and so quite a different perspective I suspect than what others may have gotten.

Your corner looks superb! I could spend a lot of time admiring those branches.

Willie


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## cwskas (28 May 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> If I take a figary(!), I'll be close to the narrowest point of México - I can do another continental crossing!
> Ocean to ocean - again!


And your second crossing of Mexico! Why not!



HobbesOnTour said:


> On the positive side, in this land of wonderful trees, my first pit stop tomorrow is a huge, massive tree!


I look forward to the pictures.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (30 May 2021)

cwskas said:


> I did have a guided tour with two friends once of Chapultepec Castle in Mexico City. But it was by an indigenous guide and so quite a different perspective I suspect than what others may have gotten.


Hi Willie,
Chapultepec castle is the one place that I really wanted to visit but it remained closed the entire time I was in the city. 
I couldn't even get close - the approach was covered by guards, could only catch glimpses from various vantage points.


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## Dwn (31 May 2021)

Just been catching up with your posts after your departure from Mexico City - interesting as always, and a welcome corrective to the news stories which give us a very different picture of Mexico.


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## IaninSheffield (5 Jun 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 30, 2021, El Camaron Yautepec to Jalapa


That really did seem like an incredibly tough day, not least because those you encountered, rather uncharacteristically seemed to offer little solace. Not only were the gods not smiling down on you, but were apparently scowling!


HobbesOnTour said:


> Covid Interlude, Monday, May 31, 2021, Jalapa to Tehuantepec


I was almost sweating just reading your account of the heat, which would seem to be becoming an ever present companion. Given the terrain and remoteness(?), trying to keep hydrated would really worry me. With your penchant for figaries, is that ever a concern, or are comedors far more abundant than I might expect?


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jun 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> That really did seem like an incredibly tough day, not least because those you encountered, rather uncharacteristically seemed to offer little solace. Not only were the gods not smiling down on you, but were apparently scowling!


I went back and read what I wrote and I wouldn't classify it as incredibly tough.  I did laugh a lot! At myself, mainly, but I did find it long. Especially the last part of the last leg.

Interestingly, I hadn't put together the various people I encountered in one theme. The day seemed to have many different sections. 
The shirtless man and presumably his wife stand out for me. That was uncomfortable. 




IaninSheffield said:


> I was almost sweating just reading your account of the heat, which would seem to be becoming an ever present companion. Given the terrain and remoteness(?), trying to keep hydrated would really worry me. With your penchant for figaries, is that ever a concern, or are comedors far more abundant than I might expect?


Hydration is a concern, but not a major one. I invariably set off with 3.5 - 4 liters of water every day and keep it topped up precisely because of my penchant for figaries and the ability to camp if I come across a good spot.

I'm consuming vast quantities of fluids this past week and it doesn't always agree with me. The worst is trying to drink warm water. There are times I'd happily sell my soul for a cold drink!

My biggest concern is too much sun, or too much humid heat, the latter is scary. Shade offers a respite from the sun, there is no escaping humidity.

At the end of the day, given where I am, I am pretty sure that in the event of emergency I could always hold up an empty bottle and it wouldn't be long before I had a full one. Or a lift. 

Comedores are random and can be bunched together. Also, day of the week has an effect. Roads or places popular for recreation may have some at weekends or evenings, but not at 9am on a Monday morning or not if rain is forecast.


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## CharlesF (6 Jun 2021)

After reading about 1st June, I thought “that’s an epic ride -111km”. Then 2nd June knocked it off top spot, for these latest 3 days anyway. Humidity is cruel! I’m glad Wednesday ends us virtual riders on a high. Atmospheric photos as always.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jun 2021)

Hola!

More photos here, the wonderful road from Oaxaca to HumidityHell

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DFgfRf4ED1UspFkF6


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## CharlesF (6 Jun 2021)

Brilliant, I like the ones with you bike included.


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## CharlesF (12 Jun 2021)

Today’s post is great reading and the usual evocative pictures brought it to life. Thanks for entertaining me!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jun 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Today’s post is great reading and the usual evocative pictures brought it to life. Thanks for entertaining me!


Thanks, Charles
It's going to be a while before there's another ....
After 18 months Montezuma finally avenged himself on me (for what I have no idea!) and moving out of range of a bathroom is probably the scariest part of the trip so far!😊


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## cwskas (13 Jun 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My biggest concern is too much sun, or too much humid heat, the latter is scary. Shade offers a respite from the sun, there is no escaping humidity.


I was on a (car) trip for 8 days with a grandson, most of it above 8000 ft elevation in very dry conditions. I got really spoiled.

My first day back I rode 100k. It was hot but overcast for the first 2/3. No clouds and very humid in midday sun after that. I often pulled off in any shade accessible!

But I didn’t have mountains or busses or trucks or rain to complicate things! 

I just spent all morning catching up on your posts. Very relaxing and enjoyable.

Willie


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## cwskas (13 Jun 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> After 18 months Montezuma finally avenged himself on me (for what I have no idea!) and moving out of range of a bathroom is probably the scariest part of the trip so far!😊


And I thought you were just giving me a chance to catch up! 

Willie


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## IaninSheffield (18 Jun 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Hopefully normal service resumes soon!


Oooerrr! The tension mounts!
Have you recovered from the ... stomach upset?


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jun 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Oooerrr! The tension mounts!
> Have you recovered from the ... stomach upset?


Stomach upset sounds so ...... Gentle


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## IaninSheffield (20 Jun 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It seems like I'm in a different world. A green, mountainous world.
> I'm not seeing anything I haven't seen before in terms of plants or trees or mountains, it's just that there is a density and a proximity that increases the impact.


It's all really happening then! Guatemala?
I wonder though, if you hadn't passed through a border post and gone through all the immigration procedures, would you have known you were in a different country? Are the peoples completely different? For example, when i travel from England into Scotland, i only really know I'm in a different 'country' from the accents of the people I encounter. Or is it more like travelling from the Netherlands into say Germany?


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## CharlesF (22 Jun 2021)

Wow! Reading the latest journey made me realise that I had become “at home” with your stay in Mexico!!! Now I have ventured into unknown territory and I need to do background reading on Huehuetenango and Guatemala in general.

Exciting times!


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jun 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> It's all really happening then! Guatemala?
> I wonder though, if you hadn't passed through a border post and gone through all the immigration procedures, would you have known you were in a different country? Are the peoples completely different? For example, when i travel from England into Scotland, i only really know I'm in a different 'country' from the accents of the people I encounter. Or is it more like travelling from the Netherlands into say Germany?


Oooh! That's a bit philosophical!

The landscape had been changing in Oaxaca and Chiapas so that isn't all that different. It's just more intense.

People are more likely to call out to me. "Hey Gringo" "Bye Bye" and other American sayings like "Hey Man, how are you doing?"
Whistling is common too. 

Lots of beeps from passing cars and trucks but a bit confused on tone. Today a guy in a pickup nearly scared me off the road.

Food is different and there's a lot less fresh food/fruit for sale on the side of the road. More shops too and less stalls.

Houses have become bigger and with more detail. Columns and balconies are common. Given the size of the houses I reckon there are multiple generations living in them. 

Like México there are lots of car washes, but here they use the English name. There seems to be a strong American influence.

The women wear indigenous clothing, especially in rural areas and carry things on their heads.

The thing is, I only dipped my toes in México really. There were differences between CDMX, Oaxaca and Chiapas. 
One thing for sure, the south is very different to the north!

So, to answer your question I'd certainly be aware of being in a different area, but not necessarily a country (ignoring things like currency and car number plates).


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jun 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Wow! Reading the latest journey made me realise that I had become “at home” with your stay in Mexico!!! Now I have ventured into unknown territory and I need to do background reading on Huehuetenango and Guatemala in general.
> 
> Exciting times!


You've ventured into unknown territory???
What about me!

Any info you dig up will be gratefully received. Huehuetenango is in the news at the moment because of all the heavy rain!


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## IaninSheffield (29 Jun 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I had a bit of an incident today that resulted in the loss of my phone


Eek! Hoping this was no more than a mishap and didn't involve nefarious activity.


HobbesOnTour said:


> When I made it clear that I had nothing for him he sat down beside me and gave me a pretty intimidating stare.


But if we're taking bets, based on recent accounts and the fact that it's currently the rainy season in that part of Guatemala, I'm going to have a shilling on water damage.


HobbesOnTour said:


> There's two kinds of rain here. Rain and downpours. This was a downpour





HobbesOnTour said:


> My camera is still suffering the consequences of rain a few weeks ago and my phone goes haywire


Any other bets?


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## cwskas (30 Jun 2021)

Fantastic reads over your last week. I was again out of contact for much of the week with grandkids. I try to maximize my opportunities to camp and travel with them when they are out of school. But today I determined to catch up!

Exceptional scenery, especially the clouds in the mountains. Hopefully you will be back online soon with a new sleeping pad as well as phone.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

cwskas said:


> Fantastic reads over your last week. I was again out of contact for much of the week with grandkids. I try to maximize my opportunities to camp and travel with them when they are out of school. But today I determined to catch up!
> 
> Exceptional scenery, especially the clouds in the mountains. Hopefully you will be back online soon with a new sleeping pad as well as phone.
> 
> Willie


I hope you're playing them some good, Texas music in the car on all these road trips!😀


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Any other bets?


All bets are now off!


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## IaninSheffield (1 Jul 2021)

I really was hoping for a water-related cause for the phone loss, but...


HobbesOnTour said:


> Ciudad de Guatemala
> Getting robbed at gunpoint can kind of influence your opinion of a place and I'm afraid that I'm not big enough to get over that.


What to say, other than we're relieved to hear you're OK!
I can't imagine the emotions that must have swirled through your mind since the event. Fear to frustration to anger; maybe acceptance, relief, gratitude?
I guess the 'cup half full' view is to, as you seem to have done, reflect on the kindness and generosity of the overwhelming majority of the people you've encountered on your travels. One awful experience might weigh heavily on one side of the scales, but adding the wealth of positive encounters on the other must surely tip the balance?

You didn't mention a visit to la policía. Not worth the effort?


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## netman (1 Jul 2021)

Unfortunately that young man who held you up is on a path to a life of suffering and pain - nothing good will come to him if he continues on that path. You seem to be taking it very well given the obvious shock it will have caused - well done for that @HobbesOnTour and well done for not reacting and just letting him get what he wanted. I hope you recover your equilibrium as quickly as possible - stay safe!


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

Thanks, folks.
@IaninSheffield no, I didn't bother going to the Police.
There are no shortage of armed guards on buildings but few Police to be seen (at least in comparison to México.
I'd normally advocate that everything should be reported, but honestly, I didn't see the point.
I couldn't describe the guy, could only say a small orange car (never saw the driver) and I just wanted to get through the blocking, changing and setting up the new phone - I'd be lost without my maps

@netman , you're right, of course. No good will come of that chap if he stays on that course. It's very obvious after visiting the city that there is a very large gap between the haves and the have nots. I can see where young people, men especially, don't have the skills, the education or the prospects to close that gap by more honest means.
And, as I have been told, Covid has ramped up the pressure on the have nots.

Now for a few small towns to recharge my touring batteries.


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## chriswoody (1 Jul 2021)

Good to hear you're safe and well, not the greatest of experiences, but thankfully it wasn't much worse. 

On another note, it's great to read of your other experiences in Guatemala and the photos look fantastic. I look forward to reading of your continuing adventures.


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Jul 2021)

chriswoody said:


> Good to hear you're safe and well, not the greatest of experiences, but thankfully it wasn't much worse.
> 
> On another note, it's great to read of your other experiences in Guatemala and the photos look fantastic. I look forward to reading of your continuing adventures.


Thanks, Chris.
You're so right - it really could have been so much worse. 
Having read about travelling in these parts I have come across a few horror stories.

It's like I've put on my "scaredy cat" glasses and everything is filtered through them at the moment. That's not good, but it is getting better. 

To be honest, the photos don't do the place justice! There is something magical about the sky, clouds and mountains (or volcanoes) and the way they combine - and then promptly change
I can stand in the same spot and just wait a few minutes and Mother Nature will change the light, the shade, the sky and the clouds!

Yesterday looking back






Same spot looking forward





A bit busier and noisier than the Black Forest but it'll do me for now!

And mystery everywhere..... 
(I keep telling myself that's a good thing!)






In good news, I've just had confirmation that boats are allowed to cross from Panama to Cartagena, Colombia again!
Good news at the right time! 

Thanks for the kind words


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Jul 2021)

For folks interested here's an album of Guatemala - part 1

https://photos.app.goo.gl/6h6WNtN2hbpPmAiG6


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## IaninSheffield (2 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A friendly little town - just what the doctor ordered





HobbesOnTour said:


> Small towns and the people in them!


And breathe. Normal service resumed.


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## cwskas (2 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I hope you're playing them some good, Texas music in the car on all these road trips!



Yes, sir! Even some car dancing! But mostly I try to teach them to look for and see the beauty around as we travel!

Willie


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## cwskas (2 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> To be honest, the photos don't do the place justice!



I really like that first photo you posted on leaving Antigua of the volcano with the smoke meandering from the top. Great shot! I like a lot of the others too . . . there seems to be much more contrast on average in Guatemalan terrain.

Willie


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## netman (2 Jul 2021)

The new phone takes great photos


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jul 2021)

cwskas said:


> I really like that first photo you posted on leaving Antigua of the volcano with the smoke meandering from the top. Great shot! I like a lot of the others too . . . there seems to be much more contrast on average in Guatemalan terrain.
> 
> Willie


I kept looking at that volcano and not being sure if it was smoking or not - lots of low cloud can mess with the view, but that morning there was no doubt!

Yes, Guatemala seems very compact, like lots of things are compressed together. Today (Sunday) for example, at a low altitude I was looking down on clouds!

The swiftly changing weather, the sheer power of the sun and the ever present clouds can change a scene from one moment to the next.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jul 2021)

netman said:


> The new phone takes great photos


Not all the time!
It's slow to focus which does not suit my point and shoot style. In bright sunshine the screen is almost impossible to see until I look later and see what I got.

It seems to be doing a good job on the colours though!


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jul 2021)

The second part of Guatemala is here


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## IaninSheffield (5 Jul 2021)

What's the weather been like for the past coupla days? Has it been warm? 



HobbesOnTour said:


> If I could have bottled the goodwill I felt leaving that little shack I'd be the wealthiest man on the planet.
> Frida has a good home.


And there, right there, the scales overbalance back in your favour ... as you no doubt expected they might. How reassuringly heartwarming, yet completely unpredictable.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> And there, right there, the scales overbalance back in your favour ... as you no doubt expected they might. How reassuringly heartwarming, yet completely unpredictable.



At the risk of being a total twat, I'm going to elaborate a little, because, yes, I was pretty confident that these parts (and the people) could restore some balance but there's also work I have to do on my own side.

A few years ago now I was diagnosed with Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD).
It was a recent event that triggered it and with the help of an excellent therapist* was quickly brought under control.

What was fascinating to me was the process.
As I understood it, a traumatic event often doesn't get filed away properly in the filing cabinet of our mind. It gets flung in, the door slammed shut to float around the filing cabinet often popping up at unexpected times - the slightest connection can bring the "trauma file" front and centre.

What needs to be done is for the file to be taken out, studied, understood and then filed away properly. That way we don't come across it by accident or tangenitaly. 

What that means in practice, is effectively reliving the experience with the understanding that now, in a safer environment, we can be more objective about the experience. This can help significantly with perspective and context, especially with older trauma.
Once perspective, understanding, context and whatever else is relevant is gained, then the file can be put in its proper place.

And that's what I did with this gun experience. I took some time, quiet time, to reflect and remove all the "excitement" out of it. Then it could be filed away, more normally.

However, there's a second stage to this - or at least there is for me - and that is the difference between _knowing_ something and _feeling_ something.
I knew that my experience was unfortunate and rare and that there are many positive experiences every single day. However, I needed to feel that.

That was my goal getting out of the city and I was confident that it was achievable. I think the few days after Guatemala City prove that my confidence wasn't misplaced. 
I wonder if my experience would be the same closer to home?

To emphasise the importance of the first step (and what has triggered this long-winded response) is that earlier today, walking a dirt track in the middle of nowhere I rounded a bend to meet a young man walking and waving a long, shiny machete. My first instinct was to smile and say "Buenos Días". Of course, I got a cheerful reply in return. My first thought wasn't trauma, nor was my first feeling.

Job done. 

*I'll admit to being one of those who was sceptical of "therapy", however it happened at a time in my life where I was making changes and was open to new things.
Now, I take the attitude that if I had a troublesome knee I'd go to a physiotherapist, why not the same idea for a troublesome mind?


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## IaninSheffield (6 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Some of this may be graphic but is included to give the full picture of a long distance tour in foreign parts.


I think I might rather have faced a youth with a gun. Actually, if I did face a youth with a gun, I suspect the second debilitating event might have quickly followed!
I can't imagine what facing this whilst on tour must be like, but hope you're now fully recovered.

I say this rather sheepishly, especially after my previous observation, but is it possible you picked up this episode from yesterday's stop at the friendly comedor? Having little experience of such things, I'm interested to know whether it's possible to trace back to potential causes, identify what the likely contributory factors were, and aim to avoid them in the future? Or would that restrict your options for sustenance so radically, you'd never get to eat?


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I think I might rather have faced a youth with a gun.


We're all different!
Having recently experienced both I'd beg to differ!


IaninSheffield said:


> Actually, if I did face a youth with a gun, I suspect the second debilitating event might have quickly followed!
> I can't imagine what facing this whilst on tour must be like, but hope you're now fully recovered.



I think I'm as fully recovered as I can expect to be, thanks. 


IaninSheffield said:


> I say this rather sheepishly, especially after my previous observation, but is it possible you picked up this episode from yesterday's stop at the friendly comedor? Having little experience of such things, I'm interested to know whether it's possible to trace back to potential causes, identify what the likely contributory factors were, and aim to avoid them in the future? Or would that restrict your options for sustenance so radically, you'd never get to eat?


Yes, it is quite possible.
I know enough about food poisoning to know that things need to work through the system before becoming apparent, except in extreme cases such as really bad seafood.

It's next nigh to impossible to accurately point a finger short of scientific analysis. 

It could well have been the water I drank with the ladies. 
However, using new electrolyte powder I think I may have overdosed and that may be a cause too. (I'm not an expert).

Or it could simply be a bug in one of my water bottles. 

Or it could be that I still have some kind of bug within me that will kick in every now and then. Some cyclists have suffered on and off for months!

If I ran into the Honduran cousins of those ladies tomorrow would I change anything?
Probably not. It strikes me as rude. 
However, I now have a full supply of tablets so if I feel at risk I'll try to be preemptive.


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## CharlesF (7 Jul 2021)

Love the “Irish” exchange with the tame Yank! Makes you think “World Power, wow, heaven help us.”


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jul 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Love the “Irish” exchange with the tame Yank! Makes you think “World Power, wow, heaven help us.”


Ah now, Charles.
It's only one person and I'm pretty sure he's kept well away from the levers of power

It reminds me of an old joke.... 

When God was creating the world he waxed lyrical about one island he was going to create... 
A green land with gentle hills and many rivers, a soft climate. Crops farmed there would be healthy and bountiful, animals prized for their quality. 
It's people would have great storytelling skills and be recognised around the world as poets. 
He'd give them the secrets of brewing a black, magical beer and delicious, golden whiskey. 
St. Peter suggested to God that it might be a bit unfair on everyone else that such a place got such favourite treatment.
"Not at all", said the Big Man (or Woman!), "wait until you see who I give them as neighbours!"


----------



## cwskas (9 Jul 2021)

I really liked all the pictures and the narrative of Copan Ruinas! Sounds fantastic!

And now I know why you are such a good storyteller. 

Willie


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## CharlesF (9 Jul 2021)

Brilliant descriptions and magical photos, thanks for brightening my day.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jul 2021)

cwskas said:


> And now I know why you are such a good storyteller.
> 
> Willie


Thanks, Willie 😊

It's not much to do with me - I'd challenge anyone to travel in these parts and not be inspired! The landscape, the weather and especially the people. 
A man (or a woman!) would need to be a statue to not be invigorated, inspired and enthused. 
All I do is take what I see and feel and stick it on some (virtual) paper.

I wanted some special memories and Central America is delivering!

*Weaving through the countryside.... 
Birds calling in multiple bird languages, traffic friendly, tooting, waving and offering sustenance. Believe it or not I can have more chats in the countryside than in a city surrounded by people! *




​Your turn!


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jul 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Brilliant descriptions and magical photos, thanks for brightening my day.


Thanks, Charles.
Trust me, it's even brighter in real life! 

Hope you're coming along well


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## cwskas (10 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It's not much to do with me



I was referring to this line of your old joke. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> It's people would have great storytelling skills and be recognised around the world as poets.



But I do agree with your other explanation about inspiration.

Willie


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## CharlesF (11 Jul 2021)

Odds 'n Ends - Yes please! They add to the atmosphere/ understanding of the trip.


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## cwskas (12 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've decided that every now and then I'll pick ten of those orphan photos and throw them up with some commentary in an attempt to "fill out" some of the detail of this little trip.


Excellent idea!


HobbesOnTour said:


> It's all well and good to say that I have a right to be in the road, it's a different matter with an ancient, heaving, huffing and puffing articulated truck bearing down on me.


Well said. I often take quite a detour to avoid some of the bridges in my area after having been passed by an 18 wheeler on a bridge in a no-passing zone. Not quite the same option in a new place.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Unfortunately, they are bolted to the ground and the bolts often remain ready to ambush a tyre!


Yikes!

Willie


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## CharlesF (16 Jul 2021)

Three things jump out from the latest post:
The police 
The children 
The stoney river picture

Why? Just different from the other days.


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## cwskas (19 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> somewhere there are videos of a grinning cyclist riding his bike!





HobbesOnTour said:


> Today was a high "smiles per mile" day.





HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not an observer, but a participant!





HobbesOnTour said:


> There are days when everything gets as close to perfection as we are allowed and today was one of those days.



Great post and fine pictures today! "Smiles per mile" is definitely a winning description.

Willie


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## cwskas (21 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> You could have plugged me into the national grid and I'd have powered a small town I was so charged up!



I think this is one of my favorite descriptions yet! These last few posts have definitely made me feel as if I was along for the ride (but I didnt have to do any climbing) and of course the pictures are fantastic!


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## netman (21 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> That's a common thing I hear from people along the way that God is going along with me, looking after me, keeping me safe.
> It's not a theory I subscribe to, but I do find it reassuring in that so many people display basic, Christian principles day in day out. I may not believe in a God, but I am certainly benefiting from those that do.


Very well said indeed! Respect for others' beliefs is something that's sadly lacking these days.

And serendipity is a very beautiful thing . So glad you're enjoying Honduras - sounds (and looks) like a wonderful place.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jul 2021)

netman said:


> .....
> So glad you're enjoying Honduras - sounds (and looks) like a wonderful place.


It really, really is. And I really, really am.

Looking at the big map in the hostel I was a bit shtumped at the size of the place - I'm really only dipping my toes in and used to looking at small maps on my phone. (I have one "big" map for all of Central America).
Most cyclists cut through El Salvador and have maybe one or two days in Honduras. There is not much info out there for the other areas, nor indeed Nicaragua on the other side.
But it's definitely a place where more time could be spent, safety permitting.

The goodwill is palpable. 
You've an idea of the scenery.
The roads are either really, really good or pretty bad but the traffic is always great.
Turning on to that highway a few days ago I felt deflated leaving the smaller, rougher mountain road behind. 
It didn't take long for me to completely revise my opinion.
It's not just that people smile and wave - it's the energy and enthusiasm they put behind it. It's infectious!


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## bruce1530 (21 Jul 2021)

I've been following this travelogue from day 1 - mostly reading it on my phone.

Today, I read the latest installment on the "big computer", with a proper screen. 
It's a revelation - the photos are so much more impressive on a big screen.


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## netman (21 Jul 2021)

The comment on seeing things on a larger map got me thinking and so I decided to plot the epic journey so far on a Google map . @HobbesOnTour has kindly agreed I can share the link, so here you go: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
Pretty impressive eh?!


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## IaninSheffield (21 Jul 2021)

netman said:


> The comment on seeing things on a larger map got me thinking and so I decided to plot the epic journey so far on a Google map . @HobbesOnTour has kindly agreed I can share the link, so here you go: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
> Pretty impressive eh?!


Brilliant! I love it!


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jul 2021)

netman said:


> The comment on seeing things on a larger map got me thinking and so I decided to plot the epic journey so far on a Google map . @HobbesOnTour has kindly agreed I can share the link, so here you go: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
> Pretty impressive eh?!


I've kindly agreed??

I love it! 
It's even got the Dutch leg and Bremerhaven!
Thank you for the effort and time.

I'm feeling as proud as punch! It's amazing where we can end up once we throw a leg over a bike!

Thank you @netman and to @cwskas for his version earlier too.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jul 2021)

Sorry! I couldn't resist!😊


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jul 2021)

bruce1530 said:


> I've been following this travelogue from day 1 - mostly reading it on my phone.
> 
> Today, I read the latest installment on the "big computer", with a proper screen.
> It's a revelation - the photos are so much more impressive on a big screen.


Well sir, you have an advantage over the author! I make my posts on a phone so I have very little idea of how the pictures look on a proper screen!😊
It's my "Something to look forward to" when this is all over.

I know myself that sometimes I take a photo specifically including some detail that I want to highlight but that detail is often missed on the small screen when I'm trying to figure out what to include. 

If ever I needed a definition of a "First World Problem"

Glad you're enjoying it!


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## IaninSheffield (22 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I am a bad, bad tourist


Mebbe, but looking up the etymology provided:


> 1772, "one who makes a journey for pleasure, stopping here and there" (originally especially a travel-writer) https://www.etymonline.com/word/tourist


So maybe you're a natural.


HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not comfortable using Public transport to extend my exploration range


Is this an understandable Covid related concern, or is there something else about public transport more generally?


HobbesOnTour said:


> The front derailleur trigger hasn't been springing back into place. I opened it up and could see no blockage. I guess the spring needs replacing but as I can draw it back manually it's not on the urgent list. I also have a few


I had a similar problem on an older bike recently and couldn't spot the cause. After a bit of searching I found it's a common problem caused by hardening grease, often easily cleared with a bit of WD40 or similar.

View: https://youtu.be/Tj2gLVRhApE

Or of course, it could be the spring!


----------



## Shadow (22 Jul 2021)

I'm still here avidly following your journey and reports, even though I may not contribute much to this thread. Often I have just wanted to say great picture or make comment/query about a particular incident/place but am often looking at something you visited/wrote up days ago, so procrastinator that I am, it never happens.

I have been following your trip on a map for a while (why did I not do this earlier when your were in the US, I do not know, it is so obvious!), I find it adds more enlightenment about your environs. And suddenly we have a brief map discussion here! I was thinking similarly to you about seeing merely a small part of Honduras when you see the whole country on a map. And yet you have seen so much more than most of us have or ever will. And @netman 's wonderful, no doubt painstaking, project. Chapeau!

I have been thinking of how you choose your route, not necessarily tomorrow nor long term, but say 3 days hence. Your choice of road options will presumably become smaller as you traverse Costa Rica and Panama. So, for example, gong through Guatemala and now Honduras, how did you choose the route you have taken? Presumably there is a vague plan? Because of something you have read? Or somewhere you wish to visit? Or to avoid a big volcano?! Or just to see where it leads? 

Looking forward to seeing which direction you take after Colombia. Yes, I realise it some way off at the moment, yet parts of South America fascinates even though the nearest I have been is Cuidad Juaréz (on US border across the river from El Paso)!!


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jul 2021)

Shadow said:


> I'm still here avidly following your journey and reports, even though I may not contribute much to this thread. Often I have just wanted to say great picture or make comment/query about a particular incident/place but am often looking at something you visited/wrote up days ago, so procrastinator that I am, it never happens.


Thanks for posting!
If I may....
I get a real kick when someone replies on here! It was the motivation for requesting this Chat Thread way back at the start - to have a relatively easy system for maintaining a dialogue. Mixed in on the Travelogue it would be far more difficult for me. (And again my thanks to the Mod team).
The thing is, all my posts are behind me (blog rule #1: don't be too accurate with current location!) so a comment on the latest post is already behind me.
Of course, it's also possible that a comment might inspire something I'd forgotten or just a long winded reply like this one!

What is very handy is when people quote the post from the Travelogue.



Shadow said:


> I have been following your trip on a map for a while (why did I not do this earlier when your were in the US, I do not know, it is so obvious!), I find it adds more enlightenment about your environs. And suddenly we have a brief map discussion here! I was thinking similarly to you about seeing merely a small part of Honduras when you see the whole country on a map. And yet you have seen so much more than most of us have or ever will. And @netman 's wonderful, no doubt painstaking, project. Chapeau!



Yes! Netman's map is cool! And Willie's before him.

I've been thinking similarly recently. In NL I saw lots and lots of laden cycle tourists and in most cases was too shy to approach. Witnessing the waves, salutes and sheer goodwill that is so visible in these parts has I hope, changed my attitude. 


Shadow said:


> I have been thinking of how you choose your route, not necessarily tomorrow nor long term, but say 3 days hence. Your choice of road options will presumably become smaller as you traverse Costa Rica and Panama. So, for example, gong through Guatemala and now Honduras, how did you choose the route you have taken? Presumably there is a vague plan? Because of something you have read? Or somewhere you wish to visit? Or to avoid a big volcano?! Or just to see where it leads?



This could be a long one!
Since I got close to the Pacific back in México my main routing focus was to stay in the mountains! Too darn hot!
Lake Atitlán, in Guatemala I avoided, for example, because what I read reminded me too much of San Cristobal de las Casas - backpackers high, drunk and pretty obnoxious. I got to see it through magic clouds!
Ironically, one place I wanted to visit outside of San Cristobal was very disturbing and so I have barely written of it. I should have had a better idea what to expect but the reality was too strange.
What can look interesting far away at home can be very different in the flesh.
My first town after Guatemala city was pure fate - a road accident encouraged me to detour, I liked what I saw so I stayed. 
The lovely Parque Aurora from a few nights ago was from iOverlander.
My border crossing into Honduras was chosen for the least climbing (bad belly). 
There's not much info on the mountains of Honduras on CGOAB. Tim Tower and the Shaws went this way. There's nothing for other parts of Honduras.
Once I get to Costa Rica it's pretty much one road. 

Another factor is weather. Simply, anything offroad is out in the wet season. 

Three days out I have a rough idea where I'm heading but that can change if other opportunities exist. I have my notes (made several years ago now), iOverlander and whatever Google or Osmand throws at me. And people. Although with people estimating distances (especially uphill!) can be unreliable. 

I don't like to overload myself with information nor checklists. Top ten places to visit? Not for me (besides a lot are closed!). Travelling solo I can please myself. I've met and known too many people who seemed stressed wondering if they were in the "best" place, rushing here to there and missing the middle bits. For me, the middle bits are often the best bits. But that's me. 


On the subject of routes, I do wonder if there is a particular mindset, especially in North America
Two recent threads on the ACA forums were interesting to me;
In one, a retired lady asked for route advice for a tour of unspecified length. Cue all the various long distance route suggestions. I suggested thinking of the places she'd like to visit and linking them together. No response.
In another, someone on tour with older paper maps and newer gps files was conflicted because gps didn't match paper.
It seems that the thought process is "there is a route. I need to follow it and only it". Off the route there be dragons! 
(My limited experience in the US is that my own (cycle.travel) routes were far superior and safer than the ACA.)


Shadow said:


> Looking forward to seeing which direction you take after Colombia. Yes, I realise it some way off at the moment, yet parts of South America fascinates even though the nearest I have been is Cuidad Juaréz (on US border across the river from El Paso)!!


The thing is, my focus has completely shifted now. When I was "planning" this seasons were important and getting from A to B within X time was important. Now? Not so much. Covid has banjaxed so much that any kind of a long term plan is foolish, and knowing me, possibly detrimental.
Until the other day and seeing photos from Ushuia, Argentina had become a concept. I say to people that's where I'm heading but I don't know if I believe that. 
My goal right now is to milk what I can out of each day. I'm so bloody lucky that there's so much to milk I could make a mountain of cheese!

If I make it to Colombia, then a big evaluation will need to be made. Weather in Peru will not be good on current timelines. But I'll cross that bridge when I need to.

Sorry for rambling - I was having my morning coffee😊

Thanks for posting!


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Mebbe, but looking up the etymology provided:
> 
> So maybe you're a natural.
> 
> ...



Thanks Ian.
Apologies for responding out of order - Shadow's post was more exciting.😊
Yes, I had investigated Youtube and saw similar advice.
I'm not sure anything is stuck, though. I haven't seen any WD40 here at all. I could probably use some of my meths to clean it out but the oil I have to relubricate everything is a bit waxy and I'm not sure I wouldn't be storing up more problems!
It works for the moment so that's the most important. 
If I do get to Panama via boat I reckon that after a sea crossing on a boat would be a good time for a deep clean, new cables and lube. And if it pleases the Touring Gods a 34 tooth cassette!
If that doesn't do it, I can consider a new shifter and possibly upgrade to 8 speed.

Thanks!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> in honour of the day if they ever surface I'll break my own rules and post it here. Today was that special!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Is this an understandable Covid related concern, or is there something else about public transport more generally?


Sorry! Missed this earlier.
It's purely a Covid precaution. To be honest, I'd have loved to have taken a day in Guatemala and travelled back a road I'd covered on the bike. A very different perspective, I'm sure!
Also, I'd like to have tried one of the Collectivos in CDMX. At the start scary and intimidating but with a bit of Spanish not nearly so scary.

I don't really mention it in the posts but I'm very conscious of Covid and take precautions.


----------



## Shadow (23 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Top ten places to visit? I've met and known too many people who seemed stressed wondering if they were in the "best" place...


Oh, how true. I often ask folk if they would return to a place that was a highlight from their top ten list and often the reply would be "no, I don't think so, I've been there and seen it". This to me is an indication that the place may not be that great to visit in the first place!


HobbesOnTour said:


> ...missing the middle bits. For me, the middle bits are often the best bits. But that's me.


How true, again! Yes, that is you! Part of the 'It is the journey, not the destination' type narrative.


HobbesOnTour said:


> When I was "planning" this seasons were important and getting from A to B within X time was important. Now? Not so much. Covid has banjaxed so much that any kind of a long term plan is foolish


I think planning *is *important. It is also as important to have the ability to be flexible and have the wisdom to recognise when to veer off plan. I think you have both.


HobbesOnTour said:


> I say to people that's where I'm heading but I don't know if I believe that.


Not sure I do either; but it will be fun to watch where you do go and reading all about it here! We CC'ers are fortunate.


HobbesOnTour said:


> My goal right now is to milk what I can out of each day


You are exceptional at this, please carry on.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Weather in Peru will not be good on current timelines


I have a query about this but it can wait - you have so, so many adventures to discover before south america.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Sorry for rambling


Please, no apologies. It is not rambling.


yello said:


> I haven't commented before. I'm overwhelmed by so many aspects of your journey, from the motivation to day-to-day reality. I feel a desire to know more but to boil down my curiosity into single questions would feel inadequate


Eloquently put. Welcome to the thread!

Thanks for posting the pic of your 2 roadie friends.

And just FYI @HobbesOnTour, should you come across any rabid Honduran footy fans, you can express your sympathy for their Olympic men's team losing their first match.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jul 2021)

yello said:


> ....... I haven't commented before. I'm overwhelmed by so many aspects of your journey, from the motivation to day-to-day reality. I feel a desire to know more but to boil down my curiosity into single questions would feel inadequate.


Welcome aboard!
Overwhelmed and inadequate are two words that I often read online when it comes to bike touring.

It's riding a bike!  There's not much simpler than that! The more we do the easier it becomes.

I chatted about my motivation early on in this chat thread. Anything else, ask away. If I don't want to answer, I won't



yello said:


> .........leaves one wanting to know more of his story (kind of like how I feel about your journey!) How would he recount that same exchange? What is his 'back story'? You've got the kernel of a story there, and you could go so many ways with it. Of course, you/we will never know the truth of it (expect perhaps by some outrageous coincidence - which could also form a part of the story!) Endless speculation. Something to exercise the mind whilst the pedals turn.


This is the thing - we are all different! I have no urge to know his back story at all.
What I take from it is that a man reacted, interacted with a total stranger for some reason that he couldn't express properly and that I suspect was not quite known to himself.
I find that to be wonderfully brave and a lesson to be absorbed. 

The irony is that with his English he was the likeliest participant in a chat that I've met for a while


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## Shadow (24 Jul 2021)

So glad you got your day of being cool. The coolest guy in Honduras, perhaps!?

I love the idea of a shop assistant trying to sell a model sailboat to a cycle tourist...lol!


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Jul 2021)

Shadow said:


> So glad you got your day of being cool. The coolest guy in Honduras, perhaps!?
> 
> I love the idea of a shop assistant trying to sell a model sailboat to a cycle tourist...lol!


He knew his market and my grá for such boats!
On a tour of parts less unknown it could well have ended up on the back of the bike!


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## cwskas (24 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Take a bike, stick a load of bright, uncoordinated bags on it, dress in the clothing that least resembles "proper" cycling gear and ride your bike between Ojo de Agua and Danlí in the misunderstood but wonderful country of Honduras. In fact you don't even have to ride - get a lift, lean the bike against a railing, and wait. The coolness will be bestowed!
> 
> People will be so genuine, so energetic and so frequent with their greetings, their cheers and their encouragement that unless you have a heart of stone you too will feel like the coolest person on the planet doing the coolest thing ever. No matter how hot it is!



I have a friend who rhetorically asked me once, "How do you get a baby to smile?"
And then he answered, "Smile at the baby!"

I think that works in most situations and with most people.


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## cwskas (26 Jul 2021)

Welcome to Nicaragua. Another world to explore!


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## IaninSheffield (26 Jul 2021)

Last night, catching up with an episode of University Challenge, one of the questions was along the lines of:
"Which central american country has the largest body of fresh water in proportion to its land area, and shares its name with that of the country in which it sits?"

Reckon you'd have been a shoo-in for that


----------



## HobbesOnTour (28 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Last night, catching up with an episode of University Challenge, one of the questions was along the lines of:
> "Which central american country has the largest body of fresh water in proportion to its land area, and shares its name with that of the country in which it sits?"
> 
> Reckon you'd have been a shoo-in for that


You don't know me well at all!


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Jul 2021)

Hello all,
I've an idea bouncing around in my head and have little access to internet at the moment to flesh it out so I thought I'd ask here if anyone can help.

I have heard that "anyone" can now get a Covid Vaccine in the U.S.
Can anyone verify if that is true? Especially in the case if someone without citizenship, social security number etc.
And travelling from abroad.

If that's the case I may take a trip up to get the vaccine. 
I could do it in two ways - up for 3 weeks to get both shots or up twice. 

If anyone knows or could throw up some links that would be great! 

Muchas Gracias!


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## IaninSheffield (29 Jul 2021)

Sounds like a smart move, if practicable, and of course if you can gain entry to the US. The US Embassy in Nicaragua site might provide some helpful info https://ni.usembassy.gov/covid-19-information-2-2-2-2/ 
CDC information on testing requirements https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/travelers/testing-international-air-travelers.html

As far as getting jabbed is concerned, from the CDC, it would seem you would be in with a shout:


> CDC does not require United States citizenship for individuals to receive a COVID-19 vaccine.


Although, also from the CDC:


> The federal government is providing the vaccine free of charge to all people *living* in the United States, regardless of their immigration or health insurance status..



I've had a quick scan around some state Coronavirus response sites. It seems to be a mixed bag, with some states more 'generous' than others.
California -


> *Do I need to be a California resident to get COVID-19 vaccine?*
> No. Vaccine eligibility is based on age. Residency or immigration status does not matter.


Missouri -


> COVID-19 vaccines are open to anyone age 12 and up, regardless of residency, ...



The Wall Street Journal has helpfully gathered links to relevant state websites - https://www.wsj.com/articles/how-to-get-a-covid-19-vaccine-a-state-by-state-guide-11611703769 - so that might provide a jumping off point, depending on where you want to travel to.

Apologies, but the above is no more than a scattershot of possibly helpful (or unhelpful) information with nothing definitive. Maybe boots on the ground in the US might have access to something more concrete ... or is an Irish Embassy likely to be as helpful as previously?

If there's anything specfic you need a hand with, let us know.


----------



## netman (29 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Cheap, tiny but a chance to see a Honduran horse fiesta!


Or even a Nicaraguan one perhaps?!! Sheesh, I don't know... getting through so many countries you can't even remember which one you're in eh?!!


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## CharlesF (29 Jul 2021)

I loved the Saturday pictures of the trees, peaceful and interesting.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jul 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Sounds like a smart move, if practicable, and of course if you can gain entry to the US. The US Embassy in Nicaragua site might provide some helpful info https://ni.usembassy.gov/covid-19-information-2-2-2-2/
> CDC information on testing requirements https://www.cdc.gov/coronavirus/2019-ncov/travelers/testing-international-air-travelers.html
> 
> As far as getting jabbed is concerned, from the CDC, it would seem you would be in with a shout:
> ...


Thanks Ian! It's all helpful!
(But you forgot the lake!) 
As you can guess I had some decent Internet (between powercuts) last night.

It's a confusing situation. For example, NYC is actively promoting itself (as is Alaska) as a Vaccine destination for tourists but Immigration are only allowing "essential travel" only - and don't consider a vaccine essential!

Yet, there are travel agencies in Latin America organising Vaccine vacations! And flights to the US have jumped 30-40% in price since March. As always in these things I'll stick out like the proverbial sore thumb!

My US visa is still valid, I'd have a return ticket but there is always the unknown.

Thanks for the input and if anyone else wants to weigh in.......


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jul 2021)

netman said:


> Or even a Nicaraguan one perhaps?!! Sheesh, I don't know... getting through so many countries you can't even remember which one you're in eh?!!


Did you stop to think that they may be Honduran horses at a Nicaraguan fiesta?

My bad! 😊

It is quite confusing! 
The notes for this are ahead of the posts and Strava is still languishing in Honduras! 
Plus, I'm looking ahead to Costa Rica and Panama! Costa Rica, especially is pernickity.

My poor little head can be fried at times!

But I wouldn't have it any other way! 😊

Backroads Hond... Nicaragua


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jul 2021)

CharlesF said:


> I loved the Saturday pictures of the trees, peaceful and interesting.


One more then!


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## netman (29 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Did you stop to think that they may be Honduran horses at a Nicaraguan fiesta?


Nope! My brain is refusing to process that information... you're just showing off now  I sometimes get to go across the border from Dorset to Hampshire though


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## IaninSheffield (29 Jul 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> (But you forgot the lake!)


It could only be Cocibolca or ... https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Nicaragua


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## cwskas (31 Jul 2021)

Somoto Canyon looks beautiful and very interesting.

Did you ever find out the occasion for the fiesta?

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Jul 2021)

netman said:


> Nope! My brain is refusing to process that information... you're just showing off now  I sometimes get to go across the border from Dorset to Hampshire though


When things open up again look to travel on the Vennbahn - multiple countries, multiple languages and all in a day if you push yourself!


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Jul 2021)

cwskas said:


> Somoto Canyon looks beautiful and very interesting.
> 
> Did you ever find out the occasion for the fiesta?
> 
> Willie


It was a "Horse Fiesta" with horsepeople travelling from all over to show off (their Honduran horses!)


----------



## HobbesOnTour (1 Aug 2021)

cwskas said:


> Somoto Canyon looks beautiful and very interesting.


Somoto Canyon photos are here.....
https://photos.app.goo.gl/7BVQhaad5crdJkjm6


----------



## IaninSheffield (2 Aug 2021)

I haz a coupla questions.


HobbesOnTour said:


> I stopped for a second breakfast peanut butter and banana on a concrete base for a light.


Try as I might, I can't interpret this one. Predictive text imposing itself? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Over my coffee I was pondering why is it here in Nicaragua that I am touring in my more traditional style


I've always wondered whether the coffee in places where it is produced, is better than it is by the time it's travelled and reached us over here. And Nicaragua is a producer of particularly fine coffee is it not?

I've noticed that on the road, you generally come across a small store or somewhere to buy a snack or drink, even when on the backroads. In NZ, an ostensibly more 'developed' country with a similar population, there are parts where you can go for miles and sometimes days without any refuelling options.
No question really, but do you have any observations why central America appears to be more helpful to the thirsty/hungry touring cyclist in this regard?


----------



## Andy in Germany (2 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I haz a coupla questions.
> 
> Try as I might, I can't interpret this one. Predictive text imposing itself?
> 
> ...



According to Wikipedia Nicaragua has an area of 130,375 km² (50,338 sq mi) and population of Ca. 6,486,201 people, giving a population density of 51/km² (132.1/sq mi).

New Zealand has 268,021 km² (103,483 sq mi) and a population of 5,127,490 people, or 19.0/km² (49.2/sq mi) a slightly smaller population than Nicaragua on twice the land area, and most of those will live in Wellington and Auckland and surrounding areas.

Given that unfortunately there aren't enough cycle tourists to support a chain of roadside stores, I'm guessing that the higher population density of Nicaragua means that they can support more shops in rural areas. 

That is just a guess though and @HobbesOnTour may know of a different reason.


----------



## CharlesF (2 Aug 2021)

Andy in Germany said:


> According to Wikipedia Nicaragua has an area of 130,375 km² (50,338 sq mi) and……….
> That is just a guess though and @HobbesOnTour may know of a different reason.


I though it was the different transport. I imagine in Nicaragua, there is more pedestrian, horses, etc. Slower and less distance traveled in an hour, or day.
In NZ, cars, etc are the main transport and its easy to get to a store miles away.

Who knows?


----------



## cwskas (2 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not the best listener but I got a bit of a lesson today from my coffee companion.
> I'd refer to her as a girl but there was a little boy, three or four years of age who called her "Mamá".
> 
> She wasn't fazed by Virginia to Nicaragua on a bike but was when I mentioned a town 50km away!
> ...



I realize that I am lagging in my reading, but I just had to comment on that encounter. Possibly the observation I will most remember.

Willie


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## cwskas (2 Aug 2021)

Really enjoying the foliage of Nicaragua! I had the opportunity to visit once for about a week. Brings back memories. I am glad you are finding your figaries satisfying.


----------



## Shadow (2 Aug 2021)

I also found your encounter with the young girl aka known as mama to be fascinating and touching. And something else too that my addled brain is struggling to find words for.

According to Wiki, St Rafa of the North is _'the highest town in Nicaragua, which attracts tourists from many countries for hiking, swimming and vacations'. _I wonder if we should add cycle touring to the list of tourist attractions? Or maybe Hobbes could add a comment to the Wiki listing?!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (3 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I haz a coupla questions.
> 
> Try as I might, I can't interpret this one. Predictive text imposing itself?
> 
> ...


Nope!
I don't use predictive text - between English, Spanish, ocasionaly Dutch and rarely some German my poor phone would melt!

I have to say I'm disappointed - if I'm going to expend huge effort cycling these roads it's hardly too much to ask for a bit of effort to interpret?

Everyone knows light concrete works really well in a tortilla. Heavy concrete, that's another matter altogether! That's best served with a good salsa and eaten with a fork.

It may be easier to read it as:
I stopped for a second breakfast of peanut butter and banana. 
I ate it sitting on the concrete base of a light pole. 
(There's even a picture of said base & light in the post!)

Coffee?
You'd be surprised. Comedor coffee is served black and sweet, very sweet. I used to drink my coffee very sweet but even this is a bit much for me.
A fancy coffee house will have varieties - if one can be found. I rarely go as they are so expensive and if I do I have a latte (comfort coffee) so I'm not the best judge.
I did load up on coffee from my stay in the mountains - feckin' delicious! The Bikepacking lads & lassies would have a fit if they saw my coffee bag! They could fit an expedition trip in it!

Stores?
I think @CharlesF is closer to the truth.

These are not stores like we're familiar with, often little more than a hatch in someone's house.
They can be stocked very poorly or very widely. In Nicaragua, especially, they can be very poor.
They serve the local communities, some of whom are living half way up the mountain off the road.
Phone credit appears to be important. 
People lack transport for grocery shopping so depend on these for basics. And treats.

Don't forget, economics here are very, very different. 98% of these would be unviable in our world but with little work, little state support anything that allows someone or a family to survive will continue. 

Deliveries to these stores are Cash on Delivery. If anyone has ever tried to operate a retail business, especially a low turnover one under those conditions it can be very, very difficult.

Often they are clustered. There might be 3,4 or 5 in a small settlement along the road. Do they specialise? I don't know. Very few stock cigarettes, for example but will direct me to another. It may be the next town! I'm assuming the high stocking cost and risk of theft is a factor. 
Water, surprisingly, can be rare. Cold drinks are likely to be sugary sodas. And often not even cold.
A village will have a couple of fruit and veg stalls too. And a little hut making tortillas. Fresh meat though? Not so much. Then again, a lot of people keep animals, especially chickens. Pigs have become a very common sight outside of houses!

The likes of an Oxxo convenience store such as at a petrol station are rare outside of the big, big towns or maybe a junction. If they exist they are lightly stocked. Nicaragua is too poor, it appears, for such frippery. 

México is the king of roadside refreshment, though.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (3 Aug 2021)

cwskas said:


> I realize that I am lagging in my reading, but I just had to comment on that encounter. Possibly the observation I will most remember.
> 
> Willie



I may be wrong but I think the fact that I'm on a bike helps lubricate or even spark some of these interactions. What I omitted from the post was that she initially came over with a plastic plate and cup to offer me for my breakfast. I'm sure someone on a bike setting up for breakfast is not a common sight - and is perhaps treated as such.

I'm wary of dipping into the political side of things, but I think it's always good to hear different perspectives. 
To do that, I need to keep my big trap shut!😊

It's a lesson I hope I can hang on to.



Shadow said:


> I also found your encounter with the young girl aka known as mama to be fascinating and touching. And something else too that my addled brain is struggling to find words for.


Sorry, I'm going to evangelise for a moment....
Travelling on a bike is great, I mean 
G R E A T for giving us (or at least me) time to let things settle and figure them out.
In a car or a bus you're at your next destination before you know it and moments, experiences are lost.



Shadow said:


> According to Wiki, St Rafa of the North is _'the highest town in Nicaragua, which attracts tourists from many countries for hiking, swimming and vacations'. _I wonder if we should add cycle touring to the list of tourist attractions? Or maybe Hobbes could add a comment to the Wiki listing?!


So, I camped in the highest town in Honduras and passed through the same in Nicaragua!  I'd love to say they are all part of the plan but that'd be a big fib! Serendipity is all.

The place is tiny and I saw no evidence of hotels (but I did avoid the steeper streets). Tourism here has been devastated by political unrest in 2018.
It was more my kind of place though.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (3 Aug 2021)

Anyone have any contacts in Costa Rica who may be able to store a bike and gear for a few days?


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## cwskas (4 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Everyone knows light concrete works really well in a tortilla. Heavy concrete, that's another matter altogether! That's best served with a good salsa and eaten with a fork.


  

That's a good one. Had Kathy & I both laughing. I had to reread that particular line

"I stopped for a second breakfast peanut butter and banana on a concrete base for a light."​
several times myself before I understood it.

Willie


----------



## cwskas (4 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I did load up on coffee from my stay in the mountains - feckin' delicious! The Bikepacking lads & lassies would have a fit if they saw my coffee bag! They could fit an expedition trip in it!


Doubled your 5kg payload, I suppose?

Willie


----------



## Andy in Germany (4 Aug 2021)

CharlesF said:


> I though it was the different transport. I imagine in Nicaragua, there is more pedestrian, horses, etc. Slower and less distance traveled in an hour, or day.
> In NZ, cars, etc are the main transport and its easy to get to a store miles away.
> 
> Who knows?



The two aren't mutually exclusive: low population densities and high car ownership mean that shops become even more sparse. It's a known problem when planning public transport.


----------



## cwskas (4 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> . . . this Travelogue is mine.
> The fact that I have an audience only has two influences;
> I am more likely to moderate my language
> It instils discipline.
> ...


Thank you for 'keeping it real' . . . and the photos! Both add a welcome dimension to the story.


HobbesOnTour said:


> *I hope you can now understand why I split the day into two posts😊


What a fine campsite!

Willie


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## cwskas (5 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *Since México it's advisable to get used to what they are before progressing too fast. Such is the volume of water they need to cope with that grates have to be big!*


Yikes! Makes me think about your description of the hidden holes after or during a rain in CDMX.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Aug 2021)

cwskas said:


> Yikes! Makes me think about your description of the hidden holes after or during a rain in CDMX.
> 
> Willie


It's almost a given that you shouldn't drive on the roads in México at night. The common response is because of crime but I've read of more vehicles getting trashed by drains, speedbumps and the like than by criminals.

On a bike, near the edge of the road I am very aware of what can crop up!

There's an episode of Frasier where he learns to ride a bike and can't avoid riding into obstacles. All he has to do is see something and he focuses on it - until he hits it.
Frasier moments worry me😊


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## IaninSheffield (5 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Anyone have any contacts in Costa Rica who may be able to store a bike and gear for a few days?


Sadly no. I have few relatives or even friends abroad - I guess an old university chum on the Isle of Man will be of little help?

Have you thought of checking for any cycling clubs in the vicinity? Might have members who might be able to help. I appreciate that might be the naive assumption of someone who's never travelled in such lands, especially given the low levels of income amongst many of the folks you've encountered, but perhaps possible in centres of population such as one with an airport?


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## cwskas (5 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It wasn't my plan but I stayed an extra day!


I am so glad you posted more pictures of that fantastic campsite. What a great location for a rest day!

Willie


----------



## CharlesF (6 Aug 2021)

Saturday seems like a day to forget! Although the pictures without the rain have some magnificent trees. Hopefully the rain will pass over and not linger.


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## Shadow (8 Aug 2021)

A couple of thoughts.
Almost all of the roads in Nicaragua seem to have lovely tarmac, visible painted lines and no cracks or holes, although there may not be a decent shoulder, except for the backroads you enjoy, which must be lovely to ride on. Which I sent in contrast to Mexico and all countries south. Any theories to why this may be?
The natives seem much less friendly than the last three countries you have been through, again the contrast. Again, any ideas why this might be? Maybe just a national temperament, like the whinging poms?!!
Love the picture of the bike in the rain, it looks just like southern England, here right now!!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Aug 2021)

Shadow said:


> A couple of thoughts.
> Almost all of the roads in Nicaragua seem to have lovely tarmac, visible painted lines and no cracks or holes, although there may not be a decent shoulder, except for the backroads you enjoy, which must be lovely to ride on. Which I sent in contrast to Mexico and all countries south. Any theories to why this may be?
> The natives seem much less friendly than the last three countries you have been through, again the contrast. Again, any ideas why this might be? Maybe just a national temperament, like the whinging poms?!!
> Love the picture of the bike in the rain, it looks just like southern England, here right now!!


Oooh! Tricky!

I think the roads are better because relatively recent Nicaraguan history saw the overthrow of a dictator family and a sharp swing to a hard Socialist government (and eventually not far from a dictatorship, it seems).
Road building is a good way to spread money around, show progress (and donning cyclical hat) get to troublesome areas and keep control?

Honduras was the outlier in terms of friendliness so Nicaragua was always going to suffer in comparison

Just theories... 
It's usually assumed I'm from the US. I wouldn't be surprised at some standoffishness.
Serious political unrest in 2018 may play a part too. 
Political symbols, statues, memorials for the Sandanistas were prominent where I travelled. Almost cult like in terms of prominence and frequency.
It would seem the movement is a dictatorship in all but name now and political opposition is jailed.
Such things tend to make people reserved with strangers.

Finally, I travelled a less well travelled route, off the PanAmerican for a good while. That may have an impact too.


For balance.....
A Nicaraguan speed bump! 




Just rocks dumped on cement and painted yellow. Brutally tricky on a bike!


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## Shadow (8 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It's usually assumed I'm from the US.


Interesting, never thought about that. Wouldn’t not have thought an accent could be detected if you just said ‘Buenos dias’, until further conversation ensued. Although obviously a gringo. 
In spite of time living in NL and who knows where else, presumably your accent is still Irish. My experience in North America was that the Irish accent was often mistaken for American.

Love the speed hump! Not fun on a laden bike. Nor cars presumably, judging by the tracks and lack of vegetation on the ‘shoulder’!!


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Aug 2021)

Ok, since we've started setting trivia, let's see who can guess where I am.....

I'm not afraid of the Mad Dogs, in fact I quite enjoy them....
I can visit a Saxon if I want....
I think I'm going to have me a shot....😊


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## Shadow (9 Aug 2021)

Far too cryptic for me at this time if day....will think on it later!


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## IaninSheffield (9 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Ok, since we've started setting trivia, let's see who can guess where I am.....
> 
> I'm not afraid of the Mad Dogs, in fact I quite enjoy them....
> I can visit a Saxon if I want....
> I think I'm going to have me a shot....😊





Shadow said:


> Far too cryptic for me at this time if day....will think on it later!


Me too Shadow!
All I can think of is that Hobbes doesn't mind being 'out in the noonday sun', and that he might be back in Mexico - Tequila perhaps? But then cryptic crosswords have always been impenetrable to me.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Aug 2021)

I'm disappointed!

Mad Dogs refers to Margharitas....

Saxon refers to the Saxon Pub, home of the legendary Bob Schneider Monday night residency....

It may only be 9:20 am but I just had a shot...... In my arm

I may not have picked the best time to visit https://www.theguardian.com/us-news/2021/aug/09/austin-catastrophe-epicenter-again-pandemic 

But it's all working out.


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## Shadow (9 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Mad Dogs refers to Margharitas....
> Saxon refers to the Saxon Pub, home of the legendary Bob Schneider Monday night residency....


Not just cryptic, but downright obscure!!

Glad its all working out though.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Aug 2021)

Shadow said:


> Not just cryptic, but downright obscure!!
> 
> Glad its all working out though.


And I thought people were reading what I wrote!

Big relief. Still have to get back to Central America, though!


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## IaninSheffield (9 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm disappointed!
> 
> Mad Dogs refers to Margharitas....
> 
> ...


Ahhhh! That's great news! Well, apart from the Austin bit. I guess you'll be there until your 2nd jab, although I appreciate we don't receive your missives in real time and that may well have already happened.

Will there be a post (or two) describing these adventures?

Bob Schneider? Had to google him.
And as for margaritas ... not many of them supped in Yorkshire pubs!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (9 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Ahhhh! That's great news! Well, apart from the Austin bit. I guess you'll be there until your 2nd jab, although I appreciate we don't receive your missives in real time and that may well have already happened.
> 
> Will there be a post (or two) describing these adventures?
> 
> ...


Flying visit only. J&J jab.
With the way things are going there was/is a danger of getting stranded.

These are live updates! Wooooh!

Bob & the Chili Parlour were mentioned way back on my first visit to Austin.


----------



## CharlesF (10 Aug 2021)

After looking on the map, I can see why you wanted to see the lake (Lago Cocibolca), it’s massive. 

It sounds as if all the hills have strengthened your legs and that you benefited from that when riding on the flat.


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## Pat "5mph" (11 Aug 2021)

Finally I'm keeping up with your adventures!
Can't wait to read what's next.
Guess you must wait for your second jab, if you leave for another country or region it will be difficult to prove you had your first one.


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## cwskas (12 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was very pleased with myself! I clocked up a decent distance, thoroughly enjoyed it and didn't totally melt in the heat. Some of my daily distances have been on the low side lately. Mind you, I'm not exactly in a hurry! That changes in Granada.



What a cool looking church in Granada.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Aug 2021)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Finally I'm keeping up with your adventures!
> Can't wait to read what's next.
> Guess you must wait for your second jab, if you leave for another country or region it will be difficult to prove you had your first one.


Welcome back!
No, I got the J&J jab. Things are changing rapidly and I was afraid of getting stranded.
Heading back today.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Aug 2021)

cwskas said:


> What a cool looking church in Granada.
> 
> Willie


It's a very pretty town, the most colonial architecture I've seen in a while. Interesting history, too - lots if pirate attacks over the years!


----------



## Pat "5mph" (12 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Welcome back!
> No, I got the J&J jab. Things are changing rapidly and I was afraid of getting stranded.
> Heading back today.


Back where? Ireland, Netherlands or the States? 
By bike?
Here in Glasgow we fear that restrictions could come back in the winter, like it happened last year.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (12 Aug 2021)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Back where? Ireland, Netherlands or the States?
> By bike?
> Here in Glasgow we fear that restrictions could come back in the winter, like it happened last year.


Oh, I'm sorry!
It's not clear because the Travelogue is a bit behind.
Costa Rica is my destination today! I had raced to CR to get a flight to Austin.

I haven't given up on this trip yet!😊

I think you're dead right. The Covid train has a long, long way to run yet. Restrictions are a "rich country" solution and in some cases a political/ideological response or not. Nothing is certain. 

At least now, with a vaccine, bailout options are open to me again.


----------



## CharlesF (15 Aug 2021)

Boy COVID has thrown up lots of hurdles for you! Well done for organising the trip using your phone and having (so it seems) plenty of unknowns.

Fingers crossed that the vaccination trip is now a smooth and easy trip.


----------



## cwskas (15 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Tomorrow, Thursday, is for going as far as I can. Friday is a long day to Liberia (airport). Saturday is for getting the Covid test, checking out the airport and storing the gear. Sunday morning I leave Costa Rica again.


That makes me tired, just reading it!!!

Willie


----------



## Pat "5mph" (16 Aug 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Boy COVID has thrown up lots of hurdles for you! Well done for organising the trip using your phone and having (so it seems) plenty of unknowns.
> 
> Fingers crossed that the vaccination trip is now a smooth and easy trip.


He's had the vaccine, J&J, one shot only needed.
It's on the post above yours


----------



## cwskas (18 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There were several small rivers to cross that flowed into the lake but mainly I was cycling through trees with rare glimpses of the water to my left.


Southern Nicaragua and Costa Rica look very nice. Lots of jungle I hear. I am reading about Liberia on wikipedia now.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Aug 2021)

cwskas said:


> Southern Nicaragua and Costa Rica look very nice. Lots of jungle I hear. I am reading about Liberia on wikipedia now.
> 
> Willie


You're doing it wrong, Willie!
You're supposed to be reading up _before_ I get there and suggesting where I go!


----------



## IaninSheffield (18 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> You're doing it wrong, Willie!
> You're supposed to be reading up _before_ I get there and suggesting where I go!


If we had the slightest clue where you were going, we might! But even then you'd head off in some figary and our efforts would be wasted.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (19 Aug 2021)

@IaninSheffield 
Too true!
I'm going South......most of the time!

However, I'd suggest that researching a little, or just plain old reading about foreign places is never wasted effort! Look where it got me!

Ironically, the most developed Central American country has the most intermittent internet! Updates coming soon and another feckin' race to a border


----------



## cwskas (20 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> they were on after Lucinda Williams. Nobody, and I mean nobody, could have generated the emotion, the spirit, the energy or the power that was in the air while she was on stage.


Nothing beats live music! It’s even better in good company! And Lucinda was soooo good!

Willie


----------



## netman (20 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> stateless, homeless and some might say feckless


Love it! I aspire to be like that one day too!

Can't believe you saw Lucinda Williams - I'm a huge fan. Did she play Copenhagen? I bloody love that song!


----------



## netman (20 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The day had one flaw - my Ipod reset itself in Texas.



Let me know if there's anything I can do to help - dump some music somewhere online so you can download it? (I have some Lucinda Williams!)



HobbesOnTour said:


> Let's just stop and appreciate that for a moment.
> Willie lives about 120 miles away, has effectively "moved" to Austin for the duration of my visit and brought me a bike!


Nice one @cwskas


----------



## HobbesOnTour (20 Aug 2021)

netman said:


> Love it! I aspire to be like that one day too!
> 
> Can't believe you saw Lucinda Williams - I'm a huge fan. Did she play Copenhagen? I bloody love that song!



Hop up on a bike and you never know who you'll see!

No, she didn't play Copenhagen but she did play Joy which I took to be a big "Feck you" to her condition.

Not trying to make you feel bad, but it was a special performance.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (20 Aug 2021)

netman said:


> Let me know if there's anything I can do to help - dump some music somewhere online so you can download it? (I have some Lucinda Williams!)


That's very, very kind. 
It's an ipod classic I have (very old school) and can't be updated except from my laptop (sitting in an attic in NL - a well insulated attic I hope)

And my phone fills up with photos.

I really appreciate the offer (and may take you up on it later!) but for the moment I'm good. One long, busy road in Panama may just change my mind!

It gives me a chance to master my songwriting skills!

Thank you! 



netman said:


> Nice one @cwskas


Willie's the Biz!


----------



## IaninSheffield (21 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Great! As well as all kinds of killer spiders and creepy crawlies, snakes and crocodiles I have to be careful of *snails*!


With the heat, humidity and hills ... oh, and now the mud, you better take care you don't get overtaken by one!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (21 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> With the heat, humidity and hills ... oh, and now the mud, you better take care you don't get overtaken by one!


At least our colour schemes don't match otherwise I might be in danger of being bagged!

Out of the hills and flying!


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Aug 2021)

I've just realised @netman is keeping my map up to date!!!

Thank you!


----------



## netman (29 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've just realised @netman is keeping my map up to date!!!
> 
> Thank you!



Least I can do... really hope the grey gloom has subsided and been replaced by sunny yellow


----------



## HobbesOnTour (29 Aug 2021)

netman said:


> Least I can do... really hope the grey gloom has subsided and been replaced by sunny yellow


I do admire your optimism!

Really appreciate the map!


----------



## cwskas (31 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Pacific Ocean! I still get a little thrill when I say Pacific! It means I've travelled far!


What a beautiful photo!



HobbesOnTour said:


> One of my better "eat at the side of the road" spots!


It looks like it might be nice for a nap too!

Kathy says Iguana tastes really good!



HobbesOnTour said:


> I'll say one thing for a Swiss run place - it had the softest, gentlest, kindest toilet paper my poor bum has been exposed to in ages!


Ahhhh, the luxury!



HobbesOnTour said:


>



Very nice and peaceful looking.



HobbesOnTour said:


> It all took less than an hour - I'm getting good at this! - and I was back on the road, my results arriving by email later.



Excellent!



HobbesOnTour said:


> When this is the road to my camping spot I just know I'm in for a treat!


----------



## cwskas (31 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Panamá here I come!!


Kathy found your description of the CR exit to be very entertaining.


----------



## cwskas (31 Aug 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I bet there are fewer Panamanian cycle tourists per capita than just about anywhere else in the world! Because Panamá is feckin' brutal for bike touring!





HobbesOnTour said:


> The guy in charge, all of 15 years old (a guess) . . . and the young fella was on top of it all.
> 
> An interesting personal interaction in Panamá! Things are looking up!





HobbesOnTour said:


> On the far edge of town I spotted a bakery, stuck my head in the door and asked if they had coffee. Of course came the answer from the prettiest girl I've seen in Panamá! I nearly danced a jig! I must be old because the jig was inspired by the coffee not the pretty girl!


I sure hope you find some addtional inspiration in Panama. Perhaps it is because you have been "on the feckin' Pan American" which you have been previously able and keen to avoid.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Sep 2021)

cwskas said:


> Kathy says Iguana tastes really good!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (1 Sep 2021)

Just a little heads up.
I've made it to the Carribbean! 

My time cycling in Panamá is almost at an end and no tears will be shed.

All going well I'm due to sail to Cartagena, Colombia on September 10, arriving (weather permitting) September 15.

I'm leaving México and Central America behind and I'm sadder than I would have expected.

Unfortunately (for you, not for me!) I am in a most glorious camping location looking out over the sea with two friendly dogs, a beach, lots of land to explore and minimal internet!

I'll probably be incommunicado until I arrive in Colombia but I'm taking time in Cartagena to acclimatise to a new continent, service Roccado and explore a city again. I'm promised good wifi so I hope to catch up then. 

This day two years ago I was flat on my back on a friend's floor. I had sold my house yesterday and I was due to get on a ship to start this adventure in two weeks time. I was terrified.

Since then, I've cycled in the US, made a musical pilgrimage, visited old friends, seen some heroes on stage, rode my bike in Texas, (and someone else's!) explored and been captivated by México, ridden the Devil's backbone, crossed ocean to ocean - twice, learned some Spanish, explored Central America, been robbed at gunpoint, got a vaccine and now I'm getting ready for a boat crossing to another continent. 
Excited is the appropriate description now.

I've just had a cold beer to celebrate reaching the Carribbean and the last two years. Two years!!! I should be finished by now!

@netman was perfectly right earlier when he spoke of serendipity kicking in when we commit to something. 
These things can be scary before we begin but once we give it a lash things have a way of working out.

I know Covid has fecked things up for loads of people (there's a new "variant of interest", I read today, originating in ..... Guess where .......... Colombia!) but we can still get things done.

An old friend of mine once said;
Hope for the best...
Expect the worst...
And settle for what you get.
He's dead right. 

See y'all on the other side!


----------



## Shadow (2 Sep 2021)

If you see this before 10 sep, safe sailing and safe travels.
If you see this after 15 sep, hope you had a pleasant boat trip.

I'm led to believe Cartagena is very, _very _touristy. I would not have thought Hobbes-like territory. But no doubt you fill find all the non-touristy, interesting bits and report on that. Yes, please!

Very much look forward to the start of the south american sojourn.


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## cwskas (5 Sep 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm leaving México and Central America behind and I'm sadder than I would have expected.


You spent a lot of time and come away with many good memories and you have a knack for holding on to those.


> Unfortunately (for you, not for me!) I am in a most glorious camping location looking out over the sea with two friendly dogs, a beach, lots of land to explore and minimal internet!


What a way to celebrate, rejuvenate and relax before the next stage.


> I'll probably be incommunicado until I arrive in Colombia but I'm taking time in Cartagena to acclimatise to a new continent, service Roccado and explore a city again. I'm promised good wifi so I hope to catch up then.


I can hardly wait for reports from this 'new world' you are about to conquer.

Willie


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## cwskas (5 Sep 2021)

> *9 Oct 2019*



The first post on *The Big Big Trip Journal!*



HobbesOnTour said:


> What follows is written for two purposes;
> 
> Firstly, it is for me; I'm going to want to remember as much of this trip as possible and I hope the discipline of regular updates will make me note so many of the details that I often forget.



300 Posts, over 25k views . . . not counting the Chat thread.



> The second reason is to hopefully inspire someone who thinks about getting on a bike and going for an adventure. If you knew me, you’d know I’m about as unlikely a person to climb on a bike and head off.
> 
> For starters, I was born without a sense of direction and have thus far failed to acquire one. I’m a lazy bugger who really likes his comforts. I've lived in The Netherlands for twenty odd years so hills, and especially mountains, are, literally, a foreign country to me. Five years ago I couldn't fix a puncture or ride more than 10 km without rest for a ciggie. I write, with all honesty, that if I can do this, then just about anybody can.



I have been quite inspired, entertained and educated by your adventure.



HobbesOnTour said:


> This day two years ago I was flat on my back on a friend's floor. I had sold my house yesterday and I was due to get on a ship to start this adventure in two weeks time. I was terrified.
> 
> Since then, I've cycled in the US, made a musical pilgrimage, visited old friends, seen some heroes on stage, rode my bike in Texas, (and someone else's!) explored and been captivated by México, ridden the Devil's backbone, crossed ocean to ocean - twice, learned some Spanish, explored Central America, been robbed at gunpoint, got a vaccine and now I'm getting ready for a boat crossing to another continent.
> Excited is the appropriate description now.



A *full* two years. I wonder how many photos . . .

Thank you,

Willie


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## Pat "5mph" (10 Sep 2021)

Today is the day our @HobbesOnTour sails!
Bon Voyage friend, wishing you calm seas, a swift journey xxx


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Sep 2021)

Thank you all for the good wishes!
Here we are heading out to the "big boat"





An old chap has just explained to me that a hurricane further north is going to "suck all the weather away" and that I'm in for a pleasant trip!

We depart in a couple of hours and I should be waking up in the San Blas islands.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Sep 2021)

Cartagena, Colombia!






AirBnB is "temporarily" without internet, will try to update soon.....


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## CharlesF (16 Sep 2021)

Bike tourist? No! Bike Explorer, especially after reading the latest entry.


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## Alex321 (16 Sep 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Cartagena, Colombia!
> 
> View attachment 609411
> 
> ...


That was the "big" boat?

I only joined this site a month ago, and have managed to read your entire main thread, start to finish. Great writing, very inspirational.

It was a bit odd reading the pre-pandemic entries, knowing what was coming, when you had no idea as you wrote them.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Sep 2021)

Alex321 said:


> That was the "big" boat?
> 
> I only joined this site a month ago, and have managed to read your entire main thread, start to finish. Great writing, very inspirational.
> 
> It was a bit odd reading the pre-pandemic entries, knowing what was coming, when you had no idea as you wrote them.


Yep!
That was the "big boat". About 15 meters long and home to 13 people.
Roccado travelled (wrapped in plastic) in the hold. 

Thanks for the kind words. Most days I have no idea what's around the next bend so a global Pandemic fits right in

Travelling two years now and if someone had told me then that I'd "only" be crossing from Panamá to Colombia now it would have been seen as a failure.
If this is "failure" then "success" would probably finish me off!


----------



## cwskas (16 Sep 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Touring Wars: The cyclist strikes back! . . . a lone cycle tourist takes on the might of an unholy alliance between a treacherous road, malevolent machines and the results of a global pandemic. Just when the alliance seemed to have moved into position to crush the cyclist he decided to strike back!



A funny reference to me, perhaps a more serious analogy for you! 



HobbesOnTour said:


> I am not enjoying Panamá. . . . How ironic that it's this place that gives me the luxury of time! . . . What kind of a touring cyclist sets a goal of 35km for the day? This one! . . . . 35km I said to myself. My mantra of the day.



Sounds like quite a good battle strategy!



HobbesOnTour said:


> . . . the Panama Canal and I am not going to rush past that! Big boats in a canal? Locks?



So at least something that might redeem Panama in your memories!



HobbesOnTour said:


> . . . . The place was closed and up for sale.*



 . . . time for a flanking maneuver!



HobbesOnTour said:


> I walked back, my toes turning black from all the volcanic sand and couldn't believe that this was the same day as earlier.



And the enemy retreats allowing you to regroup to full force!


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## CharlesF (23 Sep 2021)

From your joyful photos, I can see you really enjoyed Cartagena. Despite the relentless touts and annoying taxis. Each picture has so much to absorb - thanks for the brilliant posts.


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## IaninSheffield (24 Sep 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Day 738 , Monday, September 20 2021, Cartagena to Puerto Colombia


After Panama, it sounds like cycling in Columbia has taken a turn for the better? Well, apart from the rapid-fire Spanish speakers.
And apart from the scorching heat.
And apart from axe/machete wielding potential ne'erdowells.
And apart from the rectilinear views.
Oh, and ...


HobbesOnTour said:


> My nipples are killing me!


Maybe your piercings are due their annual service?


----------



## IaninSheffield (26 Sep 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Always on a bike tour we hit that point where we're heading home. Have I just passed mine?


Given the distance remaining and the undoubted challenges yet to be faced, I suspect not. Metaphorically speaking, I imagine you're unlikely to be freewheeling for some while yet! However, has this realisation changed the way you think about the remainder? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> My ass is worrying me a bit. I should not have ignored the discomfort on the first day but I was reluctant to stop.





> If you do develop saddle sores, take it easy and give yourself time to heal. Continuing to ride with sores will likely make them worse.


From https://www.healthline.com/health/saddle-sores
But you prolly know most of this already.
It's possible (although not necessarily advisable) to work around an aching joint or tender muscle, but for a cyle tourer, the one area you can neither neglect nor ignore is this one. Time to seek medical attention? AND get some cycling-specific shorts, even if only for the time needed to get things sorted?
Otherwise the earlier part of this post might become irrelevant.


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Sep 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Given the distance remaining and the undoubted challenges yet to be faced, I suspect not. Metaphorically speaking, I imagine you're unlikely to be freewheeling for some while yet! However, has this realisation changed the way you think about the remainder?


I don't know!
I have been looking forward to Colombia for a while, intensified in Panamá. My plan is to "enjoy every sandwich" in the wise words of Warren Zevon.
Truthfully, my head has been occupied with Iohan the last few days. 
I'm still not thinking beyond Colombia at the moment so I'm not sure what that means!



IaninSheffield said:


> From https://www.healthline.com/health/saddle-sores
> But you prolly know most of this already.
> It's possible (although not necessarily advisable) to work around an aching joint or tender muscle, but for a cyle tourer, the one area you can neither neglect nor ignore is this one. Time to seek medical attention? AND get some cycling-specific shorts, even if only for the time needed to get things sorted?
> Otherwise the earlier part of this post might become irrelevant.


Thanks for that. I do enjoy getting the pants scared off me!

The thing is, this is more like a one off, unusual situation as opposed to a typical sore. 
One advantage of a pandemic is that I have a spray bottle of alcohol to keep things clean and safe - but, man does it sting!!
I've dug out my swimming trunks (actually a Lidl/Aldi type of cycling short with very thin padding). It's really to help the "good cheek" because the saddle is at an unusual angle.
The gauze seems to be doing a good job of protecting it during the day. 
I'm monitoring things closely but so far so good. 
All this stems from not paying enough attention to the saddle l alignment after the boat and not wanting to stop.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (27 Sep 2021)

Surprisingly, I missed a buddy at the Panama Canal so I'd like to introduce Tig!


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## IaninSheffield (30 Sep 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Day 745, Monday, September 27, 2021, Curumaní to Pelaya, 68 km Total KM *12348*


Surely you could have stopped 3km earlier?


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## Shadow (1 Oct 2021)

Glad you are heading south again, there is a much warmer, happier vibe to your posts now, likely reflecting your frame of mind since being in Colombia. (i find it fascinating that Panama and, especially, CR were less pleasant.).

Have enjoyed much of he local artwork.

Total aside, I have also been to Las Vegas....in New Mexico. Older than its more well-known 'mercan cousin, quieter too and sadly, not very interesting, so did not hang around.

Very happy to see your new companion, Tig!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Surely you could have stopped 3km earlier?


Well.....
I could have if I kept track of such things

Besides, that would have meant sleeping rough
And that would mess up @netman 's map

So now it's your job to remind me when i get to 123,400km!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> Glad you are heading south again, there is a much warmer, happier vibe to your posts now, likely reflecting your frame of mind since being in Colombia. (i find it fascinating that Panama and, especially, CR were less pleasant.).



I think when push comes to shove that I'm not much of a cyclist at all. I'm just using a bike to get around and it tends to draw folks in. 
Panamá not being bike friendly at all was never going to feature highly on my list of top places.
Costa Rica was more frustrating - so much to see but so little opportunity to stop. 
Both places are very expensive and touristy. Because of Covid I had to buy an insurance policy for every day I was in CR. More often than not I felt I was a part of a long line of tourists. Genuine interactions were rare. That's just me.
I think I mentioned in a post that Costa Rica might be best done in a car or even campervan. Or possibly backpacking. 
As a stand alone destination for a bike tour it could be great with enough time and a big enough budget. 

And now Colombia...... After a kind of schizo start in Cartagena (you weren't wrong!) I'm settling into a nice little rhythm, I'm comfortable on the roads and while there's nothing like the goodwill evident in México or Honduras there's enough (and increasing) to keep me ticking along. 



Shadow said:


> Have enjoyed much of he local artwork.


Yea. It is pretty special. It continues here in Colombia.



Shadow said:


> Total aside, I have also been to Las Vegas....in New Mexico. Older than its more well-known 'mercan cousin, quieter too and sadly, not very interesting, so did not hang around.


I've been to Reno! Wouldn't be in a hurry back 



Shadow said:


> Very happy to see your new companion, Tig!


Yeah. Every now and then there are photos that are special. He goes in them.

Thanks for chatting!


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Oct 2021)

It's been a while since I did one of these....
Nicaragua - the bestest bits!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/PzUfFu395o2PYFc27


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## Shadow (2 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not much of a cyclist at all


NO, of course not...only 12,000+ km in 700+ days. Deffo no cyclist!



HobbesOnTour said:


> could be great with enough time and a big enough budget


Of course, but surely that’s true of anywhere!



HobbesOnTour said:


> settling into a nice little rhythm


That’s what we all like...whether touring Colombia or going down the shops.



HobbesOnTour said:


> there's nothing like the goodwill evident in México or Honduras


Except for all the truckers letting you have your space. And you never know what goodwill may befall you tomorrow.

Ride on!


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> NO, of course not...only 12,000+ km in 700+ days. Deffo no cyclist!



That's less than 20km a day! I'd clock up more at home!
And if you heard me swearing up the hills it would confirm my perception!
(Although in fairness, yesterday had practically no swearing and lots of positive exclamations).




Shadow said:


> Except for all the truckers letting you have your space. And you never know what goodwill may befall you tomorrow.


For the sake of clarity, it wasn't meant as a criticism, just an observation.
The last few days, especially in the hills, there are evermore positive vibes. 
Folk clearly can't understand my swearing and take pity on my soaked, struggling presence
But yes, the truck drivers are great and special mention to bus drivers too.

And I've just been told that my plan to avoid Bogotá is foolish - that I really should visit as it is wonderful for cyclists. What a dilemma!


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## IaninSheffield (3 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> And I've just been told that my plan to avoid Bogotá is foolish - that I really should visit as it is wonderful for cyclists. What a dilemma.


I think I'd be torn too. It would seem that the city has made huge strides (or should that be pedal strokes?) in recent years to make cycling a more attractive proposition:


> Bogota, Columbia. 'A place for bikes, books and coffee'


Right up your street?

However, it can't *all* be unicorns and rainbows though can it? Or maybe you might find it similar to La Cuidad de México? A tricky decision for sure.

I think I might be tempted to give it a try just to have the chance to experience the Cyclovía:


> On Sundays Bogotá belongs to bicycles


Such a unique institution, and devoted to cycling? I wouldn't want to miss that.


----------



## IaninSheffield (5 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A surging river flowing to where? Wouldn't it be fun to hop in a canoe and see what's around that bend?





HobbesOnTour said:


> Waterfalls were common, often hidden behind the flora.


Erm!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (5 Oct 2021)

O


IaninSheffield said:


> Erm!


Oh @IaninSheffield where's your sense of adventure?

This was waiting for me at the bottom of a hill the other day, along with a truck on my tail and a bus heading towards me....
A waterfall isn't the worst thing in the world!


----------



## IaninSheffield (6 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Day 750, Saturday, October 02, 2021, Rionegro to Girón, 29km Total KM *12567*


There you go. Now you're getting the hang of it!


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## Shadow (6 Oct 2021)

_'Lots and lots of things are in bags that we would not expect. Water. Milk.'_

Reminds me of when I first returned to north america and discovered milk could be bought in 2 litre (?) plastic bags. I wondered, "how the hell do you pour from that", when I realised you could purchase a jug to put the plastic bag into, snip a corner of the bag and it poured perfectly!
(Until you came to the end of the bag and the whole effing thing would fall out of the jug onto whatever you were pouring onto if you were not careful! Life is full of little learning experiences in a different environment!)


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## mjr (7 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> I think I might be tempted to give it a try just to have the chance to experience the Cyclovía:
> 
> Such a unique institution, and devoted to cycling? I wouldn't want to miss that.


I'd love to read that. On the map, Bogota looks only to have Buenos Aires as serious competition for bike-friendliness in South America and I have not heard of a similar event there. Brasilia and Lima complete the first division on the map, with places like Rio in the next.


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## Shadow (7 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> _'Lots and lots of things are in bags that we would not expect. Water. Milk.'_
> 
> Reminds me of when I first returned to north america and discovered milk could be bought in 2 litre (?) plastic bags.


Like this:




Each bag contains 3 x 1.33 litre pouches.


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## IaninSheffield (8 Oct 2021)

There are many things I enjoy when reading The Big, Big Trip Journal: the quality and readability of the account; how much I learn about other peoples and lands; and then there's the improvement in my vocabulary. First there was 'figary'. Then


HobbesOnTour said:


> Sitting in the little Plaza he'd have *conniptions* because the pigeons fly low


and


HobbesOnTour said:


> Good Lord what a *hames* they made of it


which I initially assumed must have been a typo.
Which is why this one had me pondering for a good while


HobbesOnTour said:


> what seemed to be an unofficial *dumoing* spot


until it finally struck me!
Doh!


----------



## Alex321 (8 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> There are many things I enjoy when reading The Big, Big Trip Journal: the quality and readability of the account; how much I learn about other peoples and lands; and then there's the improvement in my vocabulary. First there was 'figary'. Then


Figary was new to me too, but I did know Conniptions.

And "Hames" I thought at first may have been the filter on this site, until I looked it up.

And yes, that last was a typo


----------



## Shadow (8 Oct 2021)

Giron sounds like a lovely and interesting (in a good way) place to visit.



HobbesOnTour said:


> The old town of Girón is charming. Cobbled streets, narrow and steep between low, white buildings that are obviously under some kind of a protection or preservation system?


Could it have something to do with its Pueblo Patrimonio status?



IaninSheffield said:


> There are many things I enjoy when reading The Big, Big Trip Journal: the quality and readability of the account; how much I learn about other peoples and lands; and then there's the improvement in my vocabulary. First there was 'figary'. Then


Its all cos of his oirishness....

....regardless of how long he has lived elsewhere!!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> There are many things I enjoy when reading The Big, Big Trip Journal: the quality and readability of the account; how much I learn about other peoples and lands; and then there's the improvement in my vocabulary. First there was 'figary'. Then
> 
> and
> 
> ...


Phone, people, phone! And two fat thumbs! That's what this gets written up on!

You've brought your own vocabulary in here too! Flaneur for one and I was particularly impressed with de-toured!

Interestingly, had I wanted to teach English in these parts I would be at a disadvantage (and a lower rate) in comparison to North Americans (USA & Canada, especially USA)! A higher value is placed on US English even though the whole world knows the Irish speak the best English

I know I've used grá a few times. Does everyone understand that?


----------



## HobbesOnTour (8 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> Giron sounds like a lovely and interesting (in a good way) place to visit.
> 
> 
> Could it have something to do with its Pueblo Patrimonio status?


Now you're just showing me up!
Go on, share Pueblo Patrimonio with the class!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Oct 2021)

There are figaries on top of figaries going on at the moment. Ye may need a bit of patience for the next update


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## IaninSheffield (9 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There are figaries on top of figaries going on at the moment. Ye may need a bit of patience for the next update


Ooerr. Looks like we're not in Kansas any more Toto.


----------



## Shadow (9 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Now you're just showing me up!
> Go on, share Pueblo Patrimonio with the class!



Hey, no intent to show you up. I thought you might have discovered it in your ‘research’! It’s all your fault for starting this tour and this thread and our education of lesser known places!

Now, is class paying attention. I just looked up the town, as I often do and as someone suggested upthread ages ago from the map and found it on wiki!

Linky here https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pueblo_Patrimonio_(Colombia)


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> Hey, no intent to show you up. I thought you might have discovered it in your ‘research’! It’s all your fault for starting this tour and this thread and our education of lesser known places!
> 
> Now, is class paying attention. I just looked up the town, as I often do and as someone suggested upthread ages ago from the map and found it on wiki!
> 
> Linky here https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pueblo_Patrimonio_(Colombia)


Well, we learn something new every day!
As it turns out I'm in another town on the list tonight and I'll be hitting a few more too. I see Ciénega is on there! I wonder who they bribed?


----------



## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Sorry to leave people hanging with the latest multi-installment post but the rain has stopped and I have a Pueblo Patrimonio to explore


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## cwskas (10 Oct 2021)

Once again, I am far behind in my reading . . . what a terrible vicarious traveler I am!

I really enjoyed the* taste of some of the fantastic street art of the Getsemeni district *and the depictions of the early coastal road. What a different view that was, it seemed so flat, marshy. Marta looked very interesting and I could not help but linger on this picture.



HobbesOnTour said:


> It's always dangerous in the other place! . . . I should not have enjoyed today as much as I did. But I did! . . . I'm back in a place where I'm a welcome part of the road. . . . The neverending banana field! . . . Small town Colombia is fascinating and frantic. Not the best for sleeping!


Good to hear you are enjoying exploring new territory and once again thanks for sharing.

Willie


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## cwskas (10 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I know I've used grá a few times. Does everyone understand that?


I do now. I looked it up!


----------



## CharlesF (10 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> I do now. I looked it up!


So did I - Irish = love


----------



## cwskas (11 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Palm Trees for me are special signs that I am in a different world


You might find other indications that you are in a different world. 



> as a testament to the heat here, king wimp turned off the (first) hot water (for weeks!) in favour of the cold!


"sweaty chicken" could also be a testament to the heat!



> Lovely mountains because I don't have to climb them!


With so many mountains you have the luxury of choosing which to climb.


----------



## IaninSheffield (11 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane)
> ...
> *I felt like Royalty riding along here!*


Just occasionally, on one or two of those lanes flanked by stone walls, you could almost be in rural England (or the RoI?). Well, apart from the vertiginous mountain views around each bend that is ... and the palm trees ... and the lizards ... and most definitely, the heat!


----------



## CharlesF (11 Oct 2021)

Brilliant posts, and I loved the road pictures!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (11 Oct 2021)

uphillstruggler said:


> .....
> hopefully if you cross one of his paths, you’ll be able to have a quiet thought and if you are of a certain disposition, a prayer.


You were right even if I wasn't on one of his paths

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/t...-just-tell-him-your-plans.254046/post-6557380


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Oct 2021)

I've put together an album of the figary available here......
https://photos.app.goo.gl/vXLMy9BR79fcz4nW8

And the Chicamocha Canyon.....
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FYL91rVorQP24zHx8


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Just occasionally, on one or two of those lanes flanked by stone walls, you could almost be in rural England (or the RoI?). Well, apart from the vertiginous mountain views around each bend that is ... and the palm trees ... and the lizards ... and most definitely, the heat!



A warren of walls from yesterday....


----------



## cwskas (12 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've put together an album of the figary available here......
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/vXLMy9BR79fcz4nW8
> 
> And the Chicamocha Canyon.....
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FYL91rVorQP24zHx8


I really enjoyed the photos. It would be cool to see the GPS route and elevation screenshot of those days . . . since you have nothing else to do.

Willie


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## cwskas (12 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield: could you repost the link to the google map of his route? I thought I had bookmarked it, but I can't seem to find it.

Willie


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## IaninSheffield (12 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> IaninSheffield: could you repost the link to the google map of his route? I thought I had bookmarked it, but I can't seem to find it.
> 
> Willie


Here you go Willie


netman said:


> The comment on seeing things on a larger map got me thinking and so I decided to plot the epic journey so far on a Google map . @HobbesOnTour has kindly agreed I can share the link, so here you go: https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
> Pretty impressive eh?!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (12 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> I really enjoyed the photos. It would be cool to see the GPS route and elevation screenshot of those days . . . *since you have nothing else to do.*
> 
> Willie


Oh Dear Lord!
I have created a sarcastic monster!

Strava shows the elevation profile, doesn't it?


----------



## cwskas (13 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Strava shows the elevation profile, doesn't it?





> the Chicamocha Canyon.....
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/FYL91rVorQP24zHx8









HobbesOnTour said:


> an album of the figary
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/vXLMy9BR79fcz4nW8











Willie


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## cwskas (13 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The greatest bike in the world? 25 years old, 21 speed.


Looks pretty good to be so old . . . and covered so many miles!

A dog year is equivalent to 7 human years I've heard. I wonder what 25 bicycle years equates to? 🤔

Enjoyed the writeup and pictures of Rionegro.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> A dog year is equivalent to 7 human years I've heard. I wonder what 25 bicycle years equates to? 🤔


Roccado says he feels old enough thank you very much without anyone trying to make him older!

I always mention his age when chatting to people and they are usually shocked. I imagine a lot of people think that if I'm this far from home I must have a super dooper new bike. 
I have a super dooper bike, just not new!


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## Andy in Germany (15 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Roccado says he feels old enough thank you very much without anyone trying to make him older!
> 
> I always mention his age when chatting to people and they are usually shocked. I imagine a lot of people think that if I'm this far from home I must have a super dooper new bike.
> I have a super dooper bike, just not new!



This was one motivation for my touring bike conversion: to show that you don't have to have the latest high-end bike for it to be reliable and enjoyable to ride.


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## CharlesF (15 Oct 2021)

@HobbesOnTour A question; a admonishment and 2 comments:

Question - what is in the breakfast empanadas?

Admonishment - remember you’re NOT a Tourist but Explorer or Adventurer. A tourist has a fixed itinerary and wears long socks with sandals!

Comment - the church interior is absolutely stunning; ideal blend of ancient and modern.

Comment - when this is over, it will be sacrilege if there isn’t a book full of pictures and your diary.


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## Alex321 (15 Oct 2021)

I think it's really great that you can take the time to properly experience the places, rather than just rushing onwards. 

There was a definite feel from some of your earlier posts, when you were pushing the distances each day, that you were spending a lot of time concerned about reaching your intended destination at a reasonable time, and probably not getting nearly as much enjoyment from the trip as these shorter days are giving you.

As you say in your latest post, if you have the time available, use it to make the most of your experience.


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## cwskas (15 Oct 2021)

CharlesF said:


> when this is over, it will be sacrilege if there isn’t a book full of pictures and your diary.


I agree!


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Oct 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Question - what is in the breakfast empanadas?


Empanadas? There are lots of them! Truthfully, I haven't quite figured them all out yet.
Some will have minced beef, others chicken and rice (and sometimes sweetcorn). Others will have egg and cheese. All good, all a good dose of calories I invariably buy them from ladies and have a bit of a chat. Truthfully, the ingredients are less important than the chats and interactions.😊

I may also sometimes use empanada in the general sense - every pastry has its own name and it's hard to keep track of them all. They do a delicious puff pastry filled with chicken too! 



CharlesF said:


> Admonishment - remember you’re NOT a Tourist but Explorer or Adventurer. A tourist has a fixed itinerary and wears long socks with sandals!


I accept my admonishment contritely😊



CharlesF said:


> Comment - the church interior is absolutely stunning; ideal blend of ancient and modern.



That church was beyond special. The feeling of being in a special place, the sense of calm has to be experienced. Neither words nor pictures (and I am especially proud of that shot!) can possibly do it justice.



CharlesF said:


> Comment - when this is over, it will be sacrilege if there isn’t a book full of pictures and your diary.


The pictures are nothing special and similar and better can be seen in blogs and vlogs all over the internet.
I don't think I could ever let an editor at my scribblings I can be (or maybe used to be is more accurate) a bit of a control freak.

I've had an idea for a book for a few years and this isn't it. This is for the older, decrepit, scared-of-my-own-shadow me and anyone who wants to follow along.
If it demystifies touring, if it gives someone the idea to throw their leg over a bike and head off themselves then all the better! 

Thanks for commenting!


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Oct 2021)

Alex321 said:


> I think it's really great that you can take the time to properly experience the places, rather than just rushing onwards.
> 
> There was a definite feel from some of your earlier posts, when you were pushing the distances each day, that you were spending a lot of time concerned about reaching your intended destination at a reasonable time, and probably not getting nearly as much enjoyment from the trip as these shorter days are giving you.
> 
> As you say in your latest post, if you have the time available, use it to make the most of your experience.


I'm not sure of when exactly earlier?
Certainly Cartagena to Santa Marta had me on edge but that was because of previous bike tourist incidents.

Crossing into México I was on edge due to all the warnings I had been reading.

I recall in the US there not being many options for food, water or camping requiring long days.

I find it takes a little time for a new country to "settle down" in my mind. Not just the "Is it safe? Am I going to be mugged?" but the "Are there places to get food or water regularly?" or "Are there places to stay?". Once I have an idea of those, things settle down.

Costa Rica had very few places to safely stop on the side of the road - a real shame. Panama had lots but it was very unpleasant (traffic buzzed me) and usually there was feck all of interest to look at.
Coombia? It's Goldilocks territory! Lots and lots to see, to absorb, lots and lots of places to do it and (every day) more and more friendly people who don't bother me at all. It's just right!


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## CharlesF (15 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Empanadas?
> 
> The pictures are nothing special and similar and better can be seen in blogs and vlogs all over the internet.
> I don't think I could ever let an editor at my scribblings I can be (or maybe used to be is more accurate) a bit of a control freak.


It’s the combination of the pictures and diary that makes it compelling; but I hadn’t thought of an interfering editor!

I asked about the empanadas because I only know them filled with mince and I guessed there were more varieties.


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Oct 2021)

Andy in Germany said:


> This was one motivation for my touring bike conversion: to show that you don't have to have the latest high-end bike for it to be reliable and enjoyable to ride.


The way I look at it is that 25 years ago people were cycling around the world on what they had available then. 
If anything it's easier now. My components are cheaper, simpler and currently easier to get. 

It is, I think, a part of the "consumerist" model - having to have the bestest, newest etc. 

The problem with that is people thinking that good enough is not going to cut it. 
I once saw a woman picking up a €4k touring bike (Santos, Rohloff, racks, dynohub) and she was going to use it for doing messages! 

We see regularly on the Touring forum folk coming in looking for the perfect touring bike and never hear tell of a tour. Whatever holds them back it's normally not the bike.

This is a cycling forum, we discuss the latest models etc. There are literally millions of people cycling bikes all over the world who never look at a cycling forum


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## cwskas (15 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I feel very comfy in Colombia! . . . If someone had said to me a few years ago that I'd bounce into a Colombian village on a bike, knowing nothing about it, having no accommodation lined up and that I would feel totally at ease I'd have had serious doubts. . . . I may well be the world's worst tourist but I'm starting to get the hang of this travelling thing.



We get good at what we practice!


> Then I came to a Police Checkpoint. I slowed down but I've never been stopped here in Colombia. This time I was. . . ."Where are you going?" can be tricky to answer. Do they mean today, in their country or further afield?
> Before I could answer he barked again "Bogotá?".
> I shook my head and said I was heading for Oiba but my final destination was Argentina - El fin del Mundo.
> "Aaahhhhhhh!", he says, a great big smile breaking across his face "To Patagonia!"
> Then he was calling over to his colleague to tell him where I was off to and after lots of fistbumps I was on my way!



That must have been cool - fistbumps all around!


> No-one will ever want to ride with me in pretty places - we'll make no progress! Stop. Take a photo. Ride 100 meters rinse and repeat. (Earlier it had been 200 meters!)
> 
> I took 305 photos today to Oiba! . . . All those blogs I used to read? I'm living them now!



And those of us who can keep up get to read your travelogue and enjoy your pictures! And who knows how many others will later find this thread and benefit from your "adventure"!


> This church needs more time! . . . I've been in some amazing Churches and Cathedrals in my time, my all time favourite a little stone and wood small, rural church along the Camino Frances route in Northern Spain. . . . This reminded me so much of it, but on a much bigger scale. What was especially intriguing was the expert blending of the old and the new. . . . I stopped taking photos in churches some time ago but I couldn't resist talking one here. A special place.



What a very fine church and well captured!


> . . . . the scenery deserves to be appreciated properly and so many small places are really quite interesting. I have the great gift of time - I'd be a fool not to use it!



Well said!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> And those of us who can keep up get to read your travelogue and enjoy your pictures! And who knows how many others will later find this thread and benefit from your "adventure"!


Thanks for the kind words, Willie. I really do like that shot of the church!

iOverlander is full of reports of corrupt cops pulling folk over and "on the spot" fines - all through Latin America. 
I'm sure it happens but thus far I've had no experience. At worst, I'm ignored. 
At best I get an escort! Ah, Honduras!

Perhaps it's the bike and the assumption I don't have two coins to rub together or maybe it's just that people see a traveller on a bike as "different". Good different. It's something that pretty much most people can aspire to and achieve pretty easily. 

You'd know more than most about my stopping for photos


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## cwskas (16 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Having a wander today it hit me that I'm really not doing justice to these little towns, pictorially.
> 
> I've decided to throw up some extra photos (when merited) to give you all a better idea of what I'm seeing.


Thank you for the additional photos! Are you going to post an album?



> _A view of the magical church from the front door towards the altar. . . . The Church towers over every other building . . . A truly special building._


What an interesting and beautiful church.



> _Unless I'm greatly mistaken the dedication reads something like " A monument to the illustrious people who, through their efforts raised the profile of our town". _


 A+ for you. That is very close, but better IMO, than what Google translate came up with. "Monument to the illustrious people who with their work magnified the name of our municipality"

Willie


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## cwskas (16 Oct 2021)

Your trip thus far through Santander department has really peaked my curiosity. So I did some searching on the history, in particular the indigenous peoples. I found a couple of YouTube videos quite interesting. They are in Spanish, but YouTube can translate on the fly into English when captions are available. Some of the translations seemed pretty funny (perhaps missing nuance) but I found it satisfactory for my purpose.

Los Guanes - Una Etnia De Santander 3:37 no captions

La Cultura Guane en el Cañón del Chicamocha 19:47 captions

There were more, but I did not watch any others yet.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> Thank you for the additional photos! Are you going to post an album?



I throw up some extra pictures and you still want more?


Do you have any idea of the time (online) it takes to make an album?
My internet connectivity isn't always great! I'm not in the great State of Texas anymore!

Anyway, you've seen all I have of the church.

It may be something I do later, when this is all over, to relive some things and put together some albums of different themes or roads or whatever. I've never done any albums like these before (until this trip) and I'm still trying to figure it all out.

But since you asked, a particularly pretty stained glass window from the Cappuchin(?) church in Socorro, just down from where I was staying. No effects, just "night mode" again.







Thanks for the YouTube links. Not really in a position to watch them now but will later.

Oh! Villa de Leyva is quite the spot for star gazing going back to preHispanic times. They even have a yearly get together with Astronomers from all around the world.
Wouldn't that make a great destination on your trike?
(And bloody right I'll be looking for lots of photos!)


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> A+ for you. That is very close, but better IMO, than what Google translate came up with. "Monument to the illustrious people who with their work magnified the name of our municipality"



For Google I think we should adopt a variation of the 80-20 rule;
80% of the time it works ok but 20% of the time it can get you into serious trouble!
This applies to Maps and Translate.

Ye wouldn't believe some of the absolute crap it throws up as a translation at times!  Sometimes it can be dangerous! 

For anyone interested, Spanishdict.com is an excellent translator (and educational resource) that understands the difference dialects of Spanish. 

Mucha suerte!


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## cwskas (17 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> For anyone interested, Spanishdict.com is an excellent translator (and educational resource) that understands the difference dialects of Spanish.
> 
> Mucha suerte!



Thanks for the link.

Willie


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## cwskas (17 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It's possible I'll get bored of such scenes, but I doubt it.



Your panoramic views are fantastic!

Willie


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## cwskas (17 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I throw up some extra pictures and you still want more?
> 
> 
> Do you have any idea of the time (online) it takes to make an album?



I certainly dont want to appear ungrateful! Perhaps, as it says under my initials, I was having a 'senior member' moment! 

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> I certainly dont want to appear ungrateful! Perhaps, as it says under my initials, I was having a 'senior member' moment!
> 
> Willie


Don't be worrying yourself, Willie
I'm in Colombia....... Nothing bothers me here!


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## IaninSheffield (17 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I understand it's a bit of a tourist trap





HobbesOnTour said:


> Most definitely a touristy place and full of tourists


Curious where the tourists might be from, given you're now deeper in Columbia and travel is generally still somewhat limited. Are they Columbians or folks from elsewhere?


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Oct 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Curious where the tourists might be from, given you're now deeper in Columbia and travel is generally still somewhat limited. Are they Columbians or folks from elsewhere?


I'm not sure travel is limited, at least domestic travel?
They're all Colombians and since I'm getting close to Bogotá, most seem to be from there. A mix of young couples, families and older folks.

The couple running the lovely place in Girón were about to pull the trigger on a second property because business was booming. After a lockdown and a reluctance to international travel "home" tourism is booming.


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## Shadow (19 Oct 2021)

Am really enjoying Colombia.....or I should say I am enjoying your thoughts on your journey through it!

The church in Oiba - super picture, lovely light, provides a real sense of specialness. (the night mode function on the camera is impressive). And the flowers to the right and left in front of the altar, they are huge arrangements. That must keep some folk busy. I wonder from where they are sourced.

Your road signs making eyes at you - I could resist no longer! So I resorted to looking at Colombia's version of the Highway Code. I surmised it had something to do with lights but could not guess completely correctly. It means 'Low beam headlights'. Very useful to know as a cyclist!

Moniquira - I trust you sampled the _bocadillos_ and _panelitas de leche_ in the area, for which it is well regarded and well known?!


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> Am really enjoying Colombia.....or I should say I am enjoying your thoughts on your journey through it!


That makes two of us then!
Just remember my thoughts and impressions are just that - mine!
I could be very wrong in a lot of things!


Shadow said:


> The church in Oiba - super picture, lovely light, provides a real sense of specialness. (the night mode function on the camera is impressive). And the flowers to the right and left in front of the altar, they are huge arrangements. That must keep some folk busy. I wonder from where they are sourced.


Thank you! I'm very proud of that shot.
There are no shortage of religious shrines along the roads, usually immaculately kept. Flowers are a major component of any of the markets and each town has one.


Shadow said:


> Your road signs making eyes at you - I could resist no longer! So I resorted to looking at Colombia's version of the Highway Code. I surmised it had something to do with lights but could not guess completely correctly. It means 'Low beam headlights'. Very useful to know as a cyclist!


Yes! There was a lengthy discussion on this years ago on CGOAB and the same conclusion was drawn. For me, it's usually a sign of an impending steep climb!


Shadow said:


> Moniquira - I trust you sampled the _bocadillos_ and _panelitas de leche_ in the area, for which it is well regarded and well known?!


Don't you know that the greatest single advantage of bike touring is to be able to graze the whole way?

The bakeries here are pretty amazing but trying to keep track of the names is a nightmare. And sometimes they change from one region to another. Pointing is safer (I remember my faux pas in CDMX all too clearly😊).
In Spain a bocadillo is a swandwich! I've been known to dream about Spanish bocadillos de bacon!
Also, something with cheese can be sweet or savoury! Confusing!

Here's a selection of cookies!






The very modern "confession room" in the church in Oiba


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## Shadow (20 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Just remember my thoughts and impressions are just that - mine!
> I could be very wrong in a lot of things!


Of course. Would not want it any other way!



HobbesOnTour said:


> it's usually a sign of an impending steep climb!


That was my conclusion too.



HobbesOnTour said:


> The very modern "confession room" in the church in Oiba


Ummm...glad I'm not a practising Catholic!


And now you have just out done yourself...four posts describing a huge total of a 32k bike ride, on a sunday, when _nada pasa_ except for going to church. Excellent reportage, thank you.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> And now you have just out done yourself...four posts describing a huge total of a 32k bike ride, on a sunday, when _nada pasa_ except for going to church. Excellent reportage, thank you.


😊
I'm waiting to get called out for being full of crap!


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## cwskas (21 Oct 2021)

Santa Sofia, Boyacá, Columbia is located at an altitude of 2,387 metres (7,831 ft)!

Museo El Fósil - one afternoon in 1977, some local farmers stumbled across the massive, near-complete skeleton of a Kronosaurus, a Cretaceous-period relative of the crocodile.


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## cwskas (21 Oct 2021)

Magnificent scenery.


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## cwskas (22 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> this is what "real" tourists do



You mean you didn't want to ride this road?

*Paso de Angel*




According to lonely planet: "This vertigo-inducing mountain path running along a ridge on the way to the Guatoque waterfall is a popular attraction in its own right. At its narrowest point, the Angel's Step, it's only around 33cm wide for about a meter and a half, with vertical drops of over 100m on one side and 30m on the other. Views on both sides are amazing."

Willie


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## cwskas (22 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The views did not disappoint!


Your pictures convey a great expanse with lots of variety, but I am sure your eyes got a better view than the camera can convey.



> The onion pickers. For some reason this gave me immense joy. I think it's the fact that I'm getting to see "normal" things


It looks to me like you are having more fun than they would be. 



HobbesOnTour said:


> And a close up


What a great picture! Looks to be a decent crowd for mass.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> You mean you didn't want to ride this road?
> 
> *Paso de Angel*
> 
> ...


Eh....... No!
I'm happy with my adventures without having to resist the temptation of throwing someone off at the narrowest point


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## Scoosh (22 Oct 2021)

I've been to that battlefield at Boyacá ! 

After school, I joined the Royal Navy as an officer cadet and at the end of my first year (1969 ), was randomly selected to be part of the 12 member RN contingent of the British Military Delegation to go to Colombia to help celebrate the "150th anniversary of Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela's liberation from the Spanish tyranny".

Why? Well, it turned out that the Colombians had assistance from the British military in their campaign and they wanted to thank us on this special occasion. With the Army and RAF cadets, we stayed in the Colombian army base in Bogotá and I well remember the excellent coffee !

One of the major battles was at Boyacá, so there was to be a parade there, to be attended by the President himself. After a long bus journey (80miles), we paraded and waited for the President. It started to rain. The President was 1 hour late. It rained all the time. The President gave a 1 hour speech. It rained all the time.

Although it was August and only 4 degrees from the Equator, we were 2.5k metres/8.2k feet up in the mountains (as we are all aware now) and it was not warm. It was a cold, soaked, hungry delegation on a very steamy, smelly bus for the return journey. 


As a footnote, one of our RN contingent (selected purely at random) turned out to be a descendent of the commander of the British forces fighting against the Spanish, one James (Jaime) Rooke, who was born in Dublin in 1770 and fought at Waterloo before ending up in Colombia and at Boyacá. Greatly honoured in Colombia, so his descendent had to go to all sorts of extra gatherings !


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

Scoosh said:


> I've been to that battlefield at Boyacá !
> 
> After school, I joined the Royal Navy as an officer cadet and at the end of my first year (1969 ), was randomly selected to be part of the 12 member RN contingent of the British Military Delegation to go to Colombia to help celebrate the "150th anniversary of Colombia, Ecuador and Venezuela's liberation from the Spanish tyranny".
> 
> ...


It appears I was luckier with the weather than you!

There was a small display in the Maritime museum in Cartagena dedicated to an English officer who had been a liaison with and coordinator of the fledgling Colombian Navy. Their name escapes me now.

The British were heavily involved South American (and elsewhere) affairs although from my perspective less as wishing to aid in freedom and liberation and more to interfere with French & Spanish objectives. The U.S.A. too, including lending ships and crews to the Colombians. Several British captains amassed a significant personal fortune by piracy while on "official" duty.

A lot of Irish were involved too, often rising to high station in their adopted countries having arrived in that part of the world courtesy of the British as convicts or sailors. 

One thing that is amazing to me from my travels is the distances travelled and bravery displayed by young Europeans. Whether driven by religious, military or commercial goals they travelled great distances in great discomfort with incredibly little knowledge of where they were going. 

Here's a few extra pics for you.....

*The surprisingly small río*







*An alternative view of the bridge complete with wannabee Instagram star. Despite a line of people wanting a similar photo she hogged the bridge*








*A memorial on the far side of the motorway to the bridge*







*And a close up. Each "face" seemed to be dedicated to a different regiment and the obelisk has been restored by the U.S. embassy!*







​


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

Hola.
I'm a bit under the weather and taking a couple of days off.

I have a question about photos;

I've started using more portrait style photos in the travelogue because they show up larger (and more detailed) on my phone screen. I'm assuming the same transfers to a "big screen" such as a P.C.

I'd appreciate any feedback if that is really the case.

For reference,
This is the portrait version








And this the landscape






Thanks!


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## IaninSheffield (23 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Hola.
> I'm a bit under the weather and taking a couple of days off.
> 
> I have a question about photos;
> ...


I suspect it depends on the orientation of the device on which one is viewing the posts. I usually read (and write) forum posts on a 10" tablet in portrait mode - your assertion is correct in this case. I then turned the tablet landscape and this allowed more detail to be visible in the landscape version of the scene. It would thus (unsurprisingly!) appear you won't be able to please all of the people all of the time, but thanks for trying .

Hope you're soon back to being 'over' the weather, although a couple of days off will surely not go amiss?


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

Thanks @IaninSheffield , strangely enough when I tilt my phone to landscape mode the portrait image is still larger and with more detail (that's without selecting the picture to look at in full screen mode).

I'm still curious for the perspective on a PC/Laptop.

As for pleasing people .......
At the risk of coming across as a complete plonker I'm only thinking of myself
Someday, I'm going to get to sit down and read this travelogue on a proper screen and I want to make sure that I enjoy the maximum experience😊

I've been trying to solve the sweaty screen/finger problem with using the phone as a camera. Interestingly, using the phone in portrait mode gives less problems. 
I've also bought a type of wallet for the phone that protects it from sweat in my pocket and a teeny tiny microfibre towellete to dry fingers when necessary.
Of course, going into the mountains is also a big help!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

Thanks @IaninSheffield , strangely enough when I tilt my phone to landscape mode the portrait image is still larger and with more detail (that's without selecting the picture to look at in full screen mode).

I'm still curious for the perspective on a PC/Laptop.

As for pleasing people .......
At the risk of coming across as a complete plonker I'm only thinking of myself
Someday, I'm going to get to sit down and read this travelogue on a proper screen and I want to make sure that I enjoy the maximum experience😊

I've been trying to solve the sweaty screen/finger problem with using the phone as a camera. Interestingly, using the phone in portrait mode gives less problems. 
I've also bought a type of wallet for the phone that protects it from sweat in my pocket and a teeny tiny microfibre towellete to dry fingers when necessary.
Of course, going into the mountains is also a big help!


----------



## Alex321 (23 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Thanks @IaninSheffield , strangely enough when I tilt my phone to landscape mode the portrait image is still larger and with more detail (that's without selecting the picture to look at in full screen mode).
> 
> I'm still curious for the perspective on a PC/Laptop.



You definitely see more in landscape mode on a PC.


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## IaninSheffield (23 Oct 2021)

Yep, what Alex said. Much more detail.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

@Alex321 @IaninSheffield Thanks folks.
That's interesting and a bit surprising!
I'll resist the urge to use the portrait photos (they still look the best to me on my phone) and stick with the landscapes


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## IaninSheffield (23 Oct 2021)

It'll likely take you longer to read the journal than it did to undertake the adventure in the first place!


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## cwskas (24 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've started using more portrait style photos in the travelogue because they show up larger (and more detailed) on my phone screen. I'm assuming the same transfers to a "big screen" such as a P.C.


Both look fantastic on my laptop screen. The portrait mode seems to accent the sky more, while the landscape mode (of this particular photo) seems to accent the expansiveness of the view.

Upon download, the portrait mode is 506 × 900 pixels and the landscape mode is 1200 × 675 pixels.

In this case, the 'more detail' of the portrait mode comes from the cropping, it seems to me, rather than the orientation.

Are these two different photos or is the portrait mode cropped from the original landscape? If 2 separate images, was any zoom involved when taking the portrait mode?

Willie


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## cwskas (24 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> These days I keep reminding myself that I'm in the Andes and that a price has to be paid for that. The Andes! On my bike! Me!


I just had to quote that here. Everything costs something! Well done and I am sure quite satisfying.

Hope you are back on top of the weather soon!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> Both look fantastic on my laptop screen. The portrait mode seems to accent the sky more, while the landscape mode (of this particular photo) seems to accent the expansiveness of the view.
> 
> Upon download, the portrait mode is 506 × 900 pixels and the landscape mode is 1200 × 675 pixels.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Willie,
From looking, the landscape picture is indeed larger than the portrait one. 

They are two separate pictures, no cropping was done.
(The only "editing" I do is to rotate some pictures taken with my camera). The rare times I do anything else I'll stick a note on the bottom of the pic).

I can't recall if there was zoom in the portrait mode. Certainly it looks like it but the phone camera has a very useful "reverse zoom) function. It's possible the landscape version had this applied.
I'll try again with two photos, no zoom, just orientation.

Thanks again


----------



## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2021)

cwskas said:


> I just had to quote that here. Everything costs something! Well done and I am sure quite satisfying.
> 
> Hope you are back on top of the weather soon!
> 
> Willie


😊 It's _incredibly_ satisfying!

I'm sure someone will read it with rolling eyes but I think it's important to remind ourselves _what_ we have achieved. For way, way too long I'd have focused on what I had failed to do or what still had to be done. So much healthier to do this.

And to be grateful for what we have rather than what's missing.

I'm stopping a lot these days (and not just because of the feckin' hills) to savour where I am, what I am seeing, hearing, smelling and feeling.

I used to do the same when I first restarted riding a bike. There was a spot along a canal that was my regular stop off point for a bit of reflection. Even on my commute I had a few places to stop and appreciate. A great way to set me up for work. 

I highly recommend it!


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## Alex321 (25 Oct 2021)

That photo of the mountain town storm drain reminded me of Singapore, when I lived there for 18 months aged 11-12 (my Dad was in the RAF and was stationed at Changi).

The "interesting one" could be a death trap if you weren't ready for it.


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## Shadow (25 Oct 2021)

Ha, the education this thread brings is endless! Basilica: I thought this was essentially a grand church; larger than a church, less impressive or imposing than a cathedral. Not right, but not too wrong either. In a religious sense, it is a building with double colonnades and apse.

_'Anyone following this on a map is going to look and wonder just what the hell I'm doing! '_
I look at the map and wonder what is he doing, he's going round in a circle just when I thought the was heading for Bogota. Thought of posting such wondering and then thought, no, he has a plan and all will become clear in due course.



HobbesOnTour said:


> A lot of Irish were involved too, often rising to high station in their adopted countries having arrived in that part of the world courtesy of the British as convicts or sailors.


So true. There was an Irish bar in Montreal, QC that had about 6 or 7 examples of such elevated social standings written on the paper 'placemats'. It was astonishing, now I wish I had not binned the one I kept as a souvenir for many a year.



HobbesOnTour said:


> And to be grateful for what we have rather than what's missing.


So, so true.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm stopping a lot these days (and not just because of the feckin' hills) to savour where I am, what I am seeing, hearing, smelling and feeling.


Which is wonderful for us too, it helps bring alive more detail of your journey. Keep pedalling, keep stopping!


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Oct 2021)

Shadow said:


> Ha, the education this thread brings is endless! Basilica: I thought this was essentially a grand church; larger than a church, less impressive or imposing than a cathedral. Not right, but not too wrong either. In a religious sense, it is a building with double colonnades and apse.


I learn something new every day! 
I found it grotesque, functional and intimidating outside, horribly ostentatious inside. I visited three times in total and never felt comfortable. It's the "fanciest" church I've been in for quite a while and I couldn't think of anything more inappropriate to celebrate the son of a carpenter.



Shadow said:


> _'Anyone following this on a map is going to look and wonder just what the hell I'm doing! '_
> I look at the map and wonder what is he doing, he's going round in a circle just when I thought the was heading for Bogota. Thought of posting such wondering and then thought, no, he has a plan and all will become clear in due course.



I like that you think I have a plan
The (unplanned) trip to the bridge (Battle of Boyoca) is what turned a short loop into a longer one! It will make a good story for future Colombians that I meet.

Still no intention of visiting Bogotá although I'm reconsidering Medellín. Apparently, after Santiago in Chile it is the best place to live in South America! 



Shadow said:


> So true. There was an Irish bar in Montreal, QC that had about 6 or 7 examples of such elevated social standings written on the paper 'placemats'. It was astonishing, now I wish I had not binned the one I kept as a souvenir for many a year.



Yeah, we get everywhere! I've a copy of "Wherever Green is Worn" by Tim Pat Coogan (Irish historian) which paints a detailed global picture of Irish influence all around the world. It's particularly interesting in this part of the world. Even watching the news the other day someone was giving a speech with an Irish surname.



Shadow said:


> Keep pedalling, keep stopping!


I will!
I am finding Colombia very, very comfortable. While people are not as outwardly expressive as in say, México, there are always one or two people who make a point of engaging me in conversation in every small town. 
Not having an imaginary ticking clock counting down the time helps a lot too.


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Oct 2021)

Something for @cwskas 

I have no idea of the make but it's from 1952. 
The rear bumper is of solid wood!


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## cwskas (26 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Something for @cwskas
> 
> I have no idea of the make but it's from 1952.
> The rear bumper is of solid wood!


Pretty cool looking. I bet that has a few miles on it. It looks like a Willy’s Station Wagon.

Willie


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## CharlesF (26 Oct 2021)

Loved the Odds ‘n Ends photos, really add an understanding of what you see and experience. Thanks!


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## Scoosh (28 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I gave myself a gift today. The gift of a day. A day in small town Colombia.
> 
> After breakfasting, packing up and taking one last look at the early morning Plaza from my balcony (I had a balcony!) I started picking up the panniers for the trip downstairs when I asked myself just what was I doing?
> Here was a chance to see a "normal" town on a normal day in luxurious (by recent standards) accommodation at a very cheap price (€6,50).
> A quick chat with the receptionist/chambermaid and I didn't need to carry my panniers anywhere for at least 24 hours.


Love this !!! 
I love the relaxed, inquisitive, observant, fascinated, respectful good sense that you are bringing to this Tour Report Adventure !
You really sound content and at peace with your world. 

Loving the street art – it demonstrates an appreciation of the towns and the people, by the people of those towns.
Thank you.


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Love this !!!
> I love the relaxed, inquisitive, observant, fascinated, respectful good sense that you are bringing to this Tour Report Adventure !
> You really sound content and at peace with your world.
> 
> ...


Well, I'm just glad you didn't take the obvious meaning that I'm a lazy sod!
And a nosey so-and-so

But seriously, thank you for the compliment. I'm feeling very comfortable in small town Colombia, the more "normal" the town the better. 

I was so proud of myself for my gift to myself. And it was a very pleasant day.

Thank you


----------



## cwskas (29 Oct 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was grinning like a loon trying to photograph a funeral!



Now that’s funny!

Willie


----------



## cwskas (1 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A magical, mysterious, musical, mountainous day


So many shades of green now. . . some very deep!



> . . . Anyone who knows me in the real world knows that I can get a bit hyper and wax lyrical about things important to me. Today, I did that in Spanish!
> 
> Palo Blanco . . . Silly me was looking for Mama or Papa but no, the eldest girl, maybe 10 years of age, was the boss!
> 
> ...


Waxing lyrical in Spanish and lovely conversations with children. The Spanish is subsiding deeper into your brain. 

When one begins to think in another language, they are getting literate and proficient!



> _I'm not sure if the tape is a warning or an attempt to hold the rock back _
> 
> There was a hefty 500 meter climb out of town that soon had me heating up. The road had several examples of pretty serious subsidence . . .
> 
> ...



The hills are slowly subsiding! Washing away in all those little waterfalls by the side of the road! 

Willie


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## cwskas (1 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There was a magical, mysterious shroud everywhere . . .
> 
> Bitterly, bitterly cold . . . The road, treacherous as it could be was a lot of fun. . . . this was a bike adventure!
> 
> ...


INDEED!



> Trying to photograph what I was seeing was pointless. There was a scale that no camera could possibly capture but there were so many other components to the scene too; the birds were chirping after the rain, the light, glowing in the west was dancing on the water coating everything, the big drops falling from the trees could have been diamonds and it seemed that everywhere was the sound of falling water. A gentle wind wafted through the last lingering mist revealing and hiding, teasing. I tried to store it all.
> 
> *The colour! The life!*
> 
> A man standing with her asked me what my day was like? . . . That's when I found myself babbling away in Spanish


A very descriptive post! I am ready for the movie!
"Hobbes in the Andes"

Willie


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## cwskas (1 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Once the traffic was gone I set off again with the road pretty much to myself.
> And what a road!
> 
> It was both so similar and so very, very different to yesterday.
> ...


Interesting photos in this very descriptive post.

Willie


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## cwskas (1 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *Clouds draping mountains - the perfect start to a day in my world*
> View attachment 615921
> 
> 
> ...





> *Three rivers today!*
> View attachment 615917


*Day 777 . . . 123km*
Quite the contrast today to recent days. Nice photos of 'Rural Columbia'. I especially like the last river picture.

Willie


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## Scoosh (1 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There was no point in even trying to take a photo. I'd need to remember.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Trying to photograph what I was seeing was pointless. There was a scale that no camera could possibly capture but there were so many other components to the scene too;


I've reached the stage of life where I take very few photos.
Photos can never capture the 'true' colour, the feel, the heat/cold, the smell, the feeling of the moment. I have some older photos that I look at and immediately feel the sweat and the tropical heat where they were taken. 

I now take pictures for myself and my memories. I see a scene and almost imagine a 'click' as I blink at what I see or I do the 'panorama shot' as I look around.

I, however do not have the CC audience waiting/hanging on my next instalment, so please keep at it, I'm loving it and all the pics !


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## cwskas (2 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The monument to Peace on the plaza . . . declares that this is the time to create a new history, to be able to disagree without becoming enemies.


What a great idea! I can think of at least 2 governments (US & Texas) who seem to have forgotten what it is like to work together for the betterment of all.



> In an attempt to keep my anonymity I will not say who is who


Hint . . . He recently posted about trimming his beard!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> The hills are slowly subsiding! Washing away in all those little waterfalls by the side of the road!



Trust me - the hills are still here!



cwskas said:


> A very descriptive post! I am ready for the movie!
> "Hobbes in the Andes"


Nope! No video cameras on this ride!



cwskas said:


> *Day 777 . . . 123km*
> Quite the contrast today to recent days. Nice photos of 'Rural Columbia'. I especially like the last river picture.


Yes, it was a bit different. It felt good to knock out a long day



cwskas said:


> Hint . . . He recently posted about trimming his beard!


Not fair, Willie!
You actually know what I look like!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> I've reached the stage of life where I take very few photos.
> Photos can never capture the 'true' colour, the feel, the heat/cold, the smell, the feeling of the moment. I have some older photos that I look at and immediately feel the sweat and the tropical heat where they were taken.
> 
> I now take pictures for myself and my memories. I see a scene and almost imagine a 'click' as I blink at what I see or I do the 'panorama shot' as I look around.
> ...


I understand what you're saying and if anything I'm going in the opposite direction

The camera helps me to record all the small details of a day on the bike that would otherwise be forgotten in all the detail. Just point and click and I've a reminder for writing up later. 


There's the process too, the act of stopping, made easier it seems by the urge to take a photo.

Later, there is the process of reviewing the day's photos and selecting the ones for this travelogue. It's a very rewarding experience and I can't help but think that it helps enbed the memories properly.

Absolutely there are not many scenes that can be transferred to a photo without losing depth, scale and intensity, and, as you say there is a lot missing - the temperature, sounds, aromas. The photos, especially the reviewing process, are gentle prompts. 
The thing is, I need prompts. Moving on every day as I (usually) do things can get confused and a bit blurry. 
Writing from the photos can really bring every little detail back.

I think the combination of the written word and the image is a winner.

I've said it before that keeping a travelogue is one of the best things I've done and that I'd encourage anyone to do the same - publication not necessary. It's a great way to remember what we saw, heard, smelled and most importantly how we felt. 

Google throws up old photos at me now and only a handful will bring me back to the time and place. The photos from this trip? Every single one!

I recently read elsewhere of a touring cyclist encountering another on the road. They were stopped and staring into what the poster thought was space. It made them uncomfortable. When the space starer asked the poster if they had cried on the bike it seemed like confirmation that something wasn't right. 
Well, maybe I'm a bit mad but I regularly stop and absorb all that's on offer and I'm not immune from shedding a tear or two along the way either. 

I get a lot of positive reactions from people when they see me pulled up and taking photos. I normally have a big smile on my face but I think most people like the idea that a traveller is enjoying their country.

Just to add, as a non competitive cyclist with zero interest in tracking progress I love, absolutely love, my Strava record of each day. A map, vital statistics and lots and lots of photos. A chance to relive the road day by day whenever I want.


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## Scoosh (2 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The camera helps me to record all the small details of a day on the bike that would otherwise be forgotten in all the detail. Just point and click and I've a reminder for writing up later.


Agree totally and a brilliant _aide-memoire_ ! .
I don't do any writing up, so no need for me !


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## Scoosh (2 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've found myself welling up a couple of times in the past couple of days. There have been many moments of pure elation, intense satisfaction, gratitude and beauty that I think there'd be something wrong if some emotion didn't leak out.


Anyone would think you were actually _enjoying_ this trip ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> I am so damn lucky to be doing what I'm doing and the last couple of days, especially, hammered that home.


Yes – but you have made your own "luck" and are now reaping the rewards in shed-loads ... as are we ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> I stopped and savoured an orange sitting on a wall in dappled shade.
> I pulled up on a long bridge and had a chat with a farmer.
> I stopped at a barking dog and he came over to be my friend and investigate my panniers.
> Best of all a butterfly landed on the bike as I rested.


Now _that_ is poetry.


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Yes – but you have made your own "luck" and are now reaping the rewards in shed-loads ... as are we !


Thanks for that. 
It's quite true but I have a bad habit of not taking credit for personal things that I do that turn out well. (And everything bad _is_ my fault)

But I'm still lucky!
Today, after dawdling and foostering for most of the day I was checking in to my hotel when the heavens opened


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## IaninSheffield (4 Nov 2021)

Loved the image of the leaf cutter ants. With the butterfly picture from earlier, you're becoming quite the entomologist! I can see it now - 'Roadside Wildlife' by Hobbes.

Now to test your arboricultural expertise - why are the bases of the tree trunks are painted white in Fresno plaza?


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Nov 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Loved the image of the leaf cutter ants. With the butterfly picture from earlier, you're becoming quite the entomologist! I can see it now - 'Roadside Wildlife' by Hobbes.
> 
> Now to test your arboricultural expertise - why are the bases of the tree trunks are painted white in Fresno plaza?


Oh dear Lord!
I'm back in school!
I'm going to guess that the paint has some kind of of protective function.


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## Scoosh (4 Nov 2021)

Loving the arty-farty pics ! 

Hope you've got your sunblock ..... or maybe you reckon you're too old !


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Loving the arty-farty pics !
> 
> Hope you've got your sunblock ..... or maybe you reckon you're too old !


Sunblock?
Wait until you read tomorrow's post


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Nov 2021)

Just a heads up.....
The Formula 1 this weekend is from CDMX. As far as I know it's a circuit within the city so there may be some interesting footage.
It's also the end of the rainy season so there's always the possibility of carnage on a grand scale if that's your thing


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## cwskas (6 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A desire (or a wish) changes nothing. A decision changes everything.



Outstanding photos & quite impressive climbing! I think the mural applies quite well to your adventure!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> Outstanding photos & quite impressive climbing! I think the mural applies quite well to your adventure!
> 
> Willie


Thanks, Willie.

Yes, I think it does apply. All the wanting in the world didn't get me here. 
A few decisions did. Time will tell whether they were the right ones!

Climbing? Wait until you see the latest post!


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## CharlesF (6 Nov 2021)

Congratulations on completing the Climb, a huge achievement and I am super impressed!


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## IaninSheffield (6 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Total Climb Two thousand asnd forty eight feckin' meters (2048)


You may be aware that in the binary world of computing, a kilobyte is not 2000 bytes as one might expect, but 2048.
So your climb could be claimed as a kilo-climb. Or should that be a killer climb? 
I'll get my coat.

An amazing achievement though. I'm not sure I'd have found the fortitude, let alone the energy, to undertake such a challenge.


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## Rickshaw Phil (6 Nov 2021)

Well done getting over the climb. No wonder someone wanted to film you.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> You may be aware that in the binary world of computing, a kilobyte is not 2000 bytes as one might expect, but 2048.
> So your climb could be claimed as a kilo-climb. Or should that be a killer climb?
> I'll get my coat.
> 
> An amazing achievement though. I'm not sure I'd have found the fortitude, let alone the energy, to undertake such a challenge.


Well, you're the one that likes their numbers round

I prefer to think of it as 2km. Do you have any idea how far I'd have to cycle in NL to clock up 2kms of climbing?

As for the fortitude aspect......
You have to remember I had no idea what I was doing
I didn't know anything about the significance of the road until I had finished it!
I only had my own rough calculations.
After the last descent before the final push to the top I really had no choice but to continue on (or camp). 😊

However, had I known I may have gone differently simply because I don't really see myself as a cyclist and the world's longest climb must be off limits for me, right?

Interestingly, my alternative route over backroads (rejected because of the weather and a lack of accommodation) had this warning yesterday!






Things could have been a whole lot tougher!


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Congratulations on completing the Climb, a huge achievement and I am super impressed!


Thanks Charles and I hope you're doing well.
It's a bit of a strange one. I'm not feeling a huge sense of achievement (maybe just a little one😊) but I am highly, _highly_ amused with myself

I've been trying to think how I could have incorporated this into my "planning process" but short of Googling "ultimate cycling roads" (not something I'm likely to do) it was just a happy coincidence. 

That's what I enjoy about bike adventures - the things that happen that haven't been planned for.

The more I think about it, I think I'd have been less likely to enjoy it if I knew just what I was attempting. My mindset would have been different.
And I did enjoy most of it, immensely. The views were outstanding, humbling and from a far away world (for me). 
Probably a lot of the last three hours to the summit in the rain I didn't. Starting the final push for the summit after dropping all those meters? Heartbreaking!
But that's three hours out of three days riding. They're not bad odds. At all.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> Well done getting over the climb. No wonder someone wanted to film you.


Thanks!

You know, I hadn't thought of the video dude like that. You're clearly a more charitable person than I was at the time I'll try to remember that angle for the next time!

I've had lots of people ask for photos and take videos but they do it (at the very least) with a smile.
I couldn't even get a proper look at the guy.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

Some more pictures of Alto de Letras here......
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BMrAyZk5bJM1iRUdA

Enjoy!


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

Shadow said:


> I look at the map and wonder what is he doing, he's going round in a circle just when I thought the was heading for Bogota. Thought of posting such wondering and then thought, no, he has a plan and all will become clear in due course.



To come back to this there's now an album of the highlights of what I call The Barbosa Loop.
An ugly town, not terribly friendly but great fun and adventure doing a big circle from it!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DmW2eqQKZ5ypi1Pa8


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## cwskas (6 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Things could have been a whole lot tougher!


You probably wouldn't have gotten many pictures of a landslide either! 

The pictures you got early in your climb were breathtaking and I am sure will stay in your memory for a long time. I was thinking that the biggest negative about the climb was the fact that there were so few opportunities to visit with the locals. But you did manage that as well!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

A bit of time on my hands so here's some more pictures from a while ago...

Costa Rica https://photos.app.goo.gl/LgeevHETW66twYYz7

Panama https://photos.app.goo.gl/egnkezm89foWxLVw9

Enjoy!


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## Scoosh (6 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Now, when I say "uninspiring landscapes" it should be understood that I'm speaking relatively.
> 
> Another way of thinking about that paragraph listing my complaints is that I'm speaking out of my ass!
> I'm on my bike in Colombia, in the coffee triangle and I'm whinging that the scenery isn't up to snuff!
> Spoilt or what?


I love the way you re-assess your mind and tell it to behave ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Yes! The sky really was that threatening! There were regular times when a few raindrops fell but _the sky was happy just to threaten_


That's so beautifully put.


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> I love the way you re-assess your mind and tell it to behave !


If I didn't do that I'd never have set off on a bike at all!


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## cwskas (8 Nov 2021)

> Alto de Letras here......
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/BMrAyZk5bJM1iRUdA
> 
> The Barbosa Loop
> ...


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## Scoosh (8 Nov 2021)

Manizales looks like a bit of a 'culture shock' – to me at any rate ! I'm now so used to your laidback, relaxed journeying that, coming to what looks like a big city, is a bit ... well, even daunting, I'd say . From a gentle, relaxed pace (ok, uphill too ) to 4-lane highways and the speed and bustle of the big city.  



HobbesOnTour said:


> ...... As well as ascending to crazy heights on my bike I'm mining down into the soul of Colombia in these places.


. The difference between being a Traveler and a tourist. 

Some of those views from up looking down are staggering ! 





Am I the only one to see an angelic being flying across your photo ? (just below and right of the sun...)

Hope the ankle/foot gets better quickly !


----------



## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Manizales looks like a bit of a 'culture shock' – to me at any rate ! I'm now so used to your laidback, relaxed journeying that, coming to what looks like a big city, is a bit ... well, even daunting, I'd say . From a gentle, relaxed pace (ok, uphill too ) to 4-lane highways and the speed and bustle of the big city.
> 
> . The difference between being a Traveler and a tourist.
> 
> ...


It was a bit of a culture shock, alright. Very busy. I was quite disturbed at the lack of places to relax - traffic was everywhere! It helped reinforce the idea that avoiding Bogotá and Medellín is not such a bad thing. I'm sitting in a little Plaza now in a much smaller place and it is so much more relaxing. 

Yes, the views were impressive! Easily reached on foot from the centre and places have been made for people to gather and enjoy them. I really like that! I recall being appalled in Costa Rica at how much beachfront was "private" and only for the access of hotel/restaurant/bar guests. 

I'm not seeing any angelic beings but the cloud does look like a dinosaur!

I forgot to put it in a post but one of the days on the Alto de Letras I had a view of a large bird, a hunting bird I like to think, soaring in the sky but way below me. It was one of many magical moments, emphasising the height I was at but also the beauty right in front of (and below) me.


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## cwskas (9 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Pishing rain and I see some misty hills, what else to do except stop for a photo?


Sounds reasonable to me! 



> _The world's biggest coffee cup! Wrapped in plastic! . . . _I could only laugh and laugh I did, loudly and from the belly. I think I may have disturbed a few locals. A lap of the Plaza and it was coffee time! A delicious coffee from a trailer and a bit of people watching. It wasn't the hidden cup but the place didn't speak to me at all. The coffee was good, the girl was friendly and smiley but I wasn't feeling much at all.


A few locals may have thought you disturbed! 



> By rights I should have been happy with myself - out of Manizales in the rain, the ankle was ok and I'd arrived with lots of time to explore. But there was nothing down there or over there that called out to me.


Great news that the ankle is is OK. 



> Out with Osmand, a new route to Gizmo and off I went!


A new route, new vistas, new possibilities, new encounters . . . what motivation!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Nov 2021)

Having a relaxing morning here in Coffee Country and just had a peep at @netman 's map

It's feckin' brilliant! And up to date! 

Thank you so much for all the effort.

Here's a "Happy Bike Tourist" photo with Marcelo & buddy taken the other day for those of you not in Feckbook.


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## cwskas (13 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My day was far from boring, dull and uninspirational but that snake sign stuck in my head until I arrived and kept me on my toes (literally!) all day long!




Eyelash Viper Wikipedia


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## cwskas (13 Nov 2021)

Seems the snakes would be hard to spot since they are small, nocturnal and usually in branches or other camouflage.

How about the Howler monkeys?


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> Seems the snakes would be hard to spot since they are small, nocturnal and usually in branches or other camouflage.
> 
> How about the Howler monkeys?


You're giving me the heebie-jeebies

Nocturnal they may be but tree branches are everywhere and sometimes in my wheels! 

This was my road yesterday - a landslide on one side, a road collapse on the other







And look at all these big feckin' red things!





Didn't see any monkeys but was happily mauled by two big, playful, happy dogs!


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## CharlesF (17 Nov 2021)

Loved the last few posts with the wild roads and rain; some great descriptions there! I hope your ankle is improving, even if only slowly.


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## Scoosh (17 Nov 2021)

WOW !  You've really got an adventurous being/spirit inside you ! 

I do wonder though, has this being/spirit always been evident to you or has this trip and its adventures stimulated it to the extent that it is now overflowing in joyful abandon ? 


Wondered when you'd get to the victory over the ABs ! . Well done Ireland !


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## Shadow (17 Nov 2021)

Finally caught up with this thread and the Big Journal one - its taken me days! I've had questions, replies and comments to make but they have all got lost in my foggy head. Note to self: must make more effort to stay up to date.

*Coffee*. You are in coffee country. (I still do not know/recognise a coffee plant- in spite of your photos!). So, a few queries:

What makes the Colombian coffee you are enjoying so good? How does it differ from 'good' coffee available in europe?
When you take your coffee at 'the Plaza' (it does not matter in which town!), what do you actually ask for? Does it generally arrive as you requested? (or does it come as the proprietor/server think you should have it!)
How do you like your coffee - e.g. milk, cream, sugar? Has your taste changed since being in Colombia?


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## Alex321 (17 Nov 2021)

A lot of the best coffee available in Europe comes from Colombia - So Hobbes is getting it from the source


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Nov 2021)

CharlesF said:


> Loved the last few posts with the wild roads and rain; some great descriptions there! I hope your ankle is improving, even if only slowly.


Thanks Charles
The ankle is still sensitive but not hampering me anymore.
I'm genuinely surprised it hasn't happened before!


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> WOW !  You've really got an adventurous being/spirit inside you !
> 
> I do wonder though, has this being/spirit always been evident to you or has this trip and its adventures stimulated it to the extent that it is now overflowing in joyful abandon ?



Interesting question and I'm not sure I'm best placed to answer it!

I'd think that certainly I was a bit adventurous when I was younger but that I lost that for quite a while.

I think getting on a bike and going for a ride was a catalyst for some of it coming back.

I think I made the point that I may not have enjoyed the completely unexpected road surface a few years ago..... But these days it was beyond fabulous!

There's probably a few reasons for that;
I'm confident in what I'm doing. And I have the gear that I need. Plus, I've been on the road for a while.
I feel very comfortable where I am - that makes adventure easier.
My head is in the right place.

I think I was trying to make the point in the post that, for me, the idea of being able to attempt a big adventure came from completing lots of small adventures.
And every bike ride can be a small adventure.



Scoosh said:


> Wondered when you'd get to the victory over the ABs ! . Well done Ireland !


Our first victory against them was in 2016! We've now won three times in 5 years! (Or 100+). Of course, they still win the ones that count.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2021)

Shadow said:


> What makes the Colombian coffee you are enjoying so good?



The coffee served here is second grade - the good stuff is exported. So there's that. 
Having said that, it is still pretty good in comparison to what is served in other places. 
Honestly, I think a huge part of the enjoyment is the location and the overall experience. 
That coffee I get when I roll into the Plaza of a new town? There's all kinds of flavour in there! Adventure, comfort, the "I'm home" flavour. Another day safely negotiated. 
And of course, I get to plonk my ass down and watch the world go by. 



Shadow said:


> How does it differ from 'good' coffee available in europe?



In the service.
I have a choice of coffee - filtered or from an espresso type machine.
I prefer the filtered, it's cheaper and the experience is better. The filtered here knocks the pants off the filtered at home. And it's fast! 



Shadow said:


> When you take your coffee at 'the Plaza' (it does not matter in which town!), what do you actually ask for? Does it generally arrive as you requested? (or does it come as the proprietor/server think you should have it!)


From a vendor with flasks I'll ask for a "tinto". A black coffee. Usually it is already sweetened. It will usually be served in a plastic, disposable cup and I'll have a choice of big or small, nearly always described in terms of price. 
They normally expect the foreigner to want it "con leche" (with milk) but I've weaned myself off that. I'm not sure the milk was agreeing with me. Sometimes I have to insist!

From an espresso type machine it can be more variable - I'm not sure everyone is familiar with the machines. For years my goto coffee in such a place is a latte. I prefer to avoid them here. If it's my only choice I'll have an "Americano". 



Shadow said:


> How do you like your coffee - e.g. milk, cream, sugar? Has your taste changed since being in Colombia?



My "comfort" coffee is a latte. 
Generally, I prefer a milky coffee in the morning but these days its black.
I'd normally take my coffee sweet but the prevalence of "panela" from sugar cane is game changing! Wonderful stuff!

Prices vary hugely! A tinto from a street vendor won't exceed 1000 pesos and often cheaper. From a coffee "wagon" with "proper" machine 3000 or more.


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## Shadow (18 Nov 2021)

Alex321 said:


> A lot of the best coffee available in Europe comes from Colombia


Yes, I am aware of that. My query was poorly worded, I should have said '...in europe, imported from anywhere _but _Co.'


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## Shadow (18 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My head is in the right place.


^^^ this. many times this.



HobbesOnTour said:


> And every bike ride can be a small adventure.


^^^ and this! (Even near home).

Thanks for expanding on the coffee, fascinating and invariably leads to more mental meanderings from me:


HobbesOnTour said:


> The filtered here knocks the pants off the filtered at home.


I wonder how and why. Does the vendor almost make a new batch for each customer? Or is the vendor generally busy so the coffee does not go stale?



HobbesOnTour said:


> Usually it is already sweetened


With what? What if you like unsweetened coffee?



HobbesOnTour said:


> the prevalence of "panela" from sugar cane is game changing


What is 'panela'? How is it game changing?


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## Shadow (18 Nov 2021)

_'All those meters climbed and for absolutely nothing! '_

Ha! Your attitude to hills is _soooo_ different since being in Co and also since ascending Alto de Letras with (relative) ease. The Intrepid Condor!, perhaps.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2021)

Shadow said:


> I wonder how and why. Does the vendor almost make a new batch for each customer? Or is the vendor generally busy so the coffee does not go stale?


I have no idea!
I have seen filter coffee being poured out of a big "machine" then being poured back through the coffee grinds at the top.
The flasks are premade so I have no idea how that is made, if differently.

You have to remember that I'm an "experience" kind of guy. I'm in Colombia drinking coffee after riding past coffee plants growing in some pretty spectacular places. I don't want to separate that from what's in my hand. 😊
You'd need to do a triple blind taste test on me and there's no guarantee it would back up what I'm writing 



Shadow said:


> With what? What if you like unsweetened coffee?


You ask for it! Maybe they have it, maybe not. Sometimes the coffee is unsweetened and I need to add sugar. Perhaps it's a regional thing? 
I'm assuming it's sweetened with sugar.


Shadow said:


> What is 'panela'? How is it game changing?


It's a type of sugar from sugar cane. Very smooth, it has flavour over and beyond being sweet and is less sweet than sugar. It seems to combine better with the coffee.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2021)

Shadow said:


> _'All those meters climbed and for absolutely nothing! '_
> 
> Ha! Your attitude to hills is _soooo_ different since being in Co and also since ascending Alto de Letras with (relative) ease. The Intrepid Condor!, perhaps.


Relative ease???
It was bloody hard work!!
But immensely enjoyable.

I'm just a bit more confident now, is all.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

@Shadow 

Especially for you......

My typical "tinto" served in a big plastic cup in a little plastic cup. (The little is the "normal" size.








My preferred type of coffee vendor. Just flasks of premade coffee. It keeps very well and service is fast. There are invariably people hanging around so the transaction is often very sociable. And cheap! For me the taste is only a part of the overall experience. 







The typical setup. All coffee. All the same! 






You'll have to excuse me..... I have coffee to drink!


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## Scoosh (21 Nov 2021)

Seeing those plastic bags hanging on the side of the coffee flasks reminds me of being in Singapore, where many of the drinks stalls used to have Coca Cola in small plastic bags.
Cue my wife writing (way before mobile phones, this was ) to her brother and telling him how we were buying "coke" in small bags ... 



HobbesOnTour said:


> I took the card and showed him where I put it, on top of my bar bag where maps are supposed to go. Nice and visible.
> .....
> His sister smiled at me appreciatively as I pushed away, happy, I believe, to see him so happy.


That is lovely – so kind of you. 



HobbesOnTour said:


> Then I had a coffee and a couple of "croissants" in a bakery. I'd love to know what French people make of Colombian croissants!


Got a pic, so we can make up _our_ minds ? Please ??? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> A quarter of an hour after starting this was my view. I just knew it was going to be a good day!


Now that is stunning ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> *Now, try to not notice the cairns!*


Are they just a place where someone has piled up the stones ? Who stacked them ? Why ?? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> On the Río Magdalena! This was a thrill! And I didn't get sick!


Now that's the seasoned traveller ! One who doesn't get sick on a pan-flat bit of (ok – moving) water !


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Got a pic, so we can make up _our_ minds ? Please ???



They look just like "normal" croissants, at least ar first glance. Where a normal croissant melts in my mouth, sometimes almost with a bit of fizz these ones are dense and heavy. They require work to eat! 
Come on over and see for yourself!


Scoosh said:


> Are they just a place where someone has piled up the stones ? Who stacked them ? Why ??



I don't know! The museum was closed!


Scoosh said:


> Now that's the seasoned traveller ! One who doesn't get sick on a pan-flat bit of (ok – moving) water !


Less of the sarcasm! That's my thing!
I'll have you know the river is incredibly fast and the ferry was initially swinging wildly!
I thought I had sea legs until my first night leaving Panamá! Panamá of all places!! I won't be so cocky again!


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Nov 2021)

More piccies of the amazing Tatacoa desert are here.....
https://photos.app.goo.gl/BJe3FSMWMAzxgM8o6


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## cwskas (22 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Now, try to not notice the cairns!


A very interesting picture!






Surely there is some significance to those who travel that way.

Willie


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## cwskas (22 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> More piccies of the amazing Tatacoa desert are here.....
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/BJe3FSMWMAzxgM8o6


What a fabulous collection of photos!

Willie


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## Scoosh (22 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> What a fabulous collection of photos!
> 
> Willie


... and what a fertile desert. It obviously gets a fair bit of rain sometime.


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## Shadow (22 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Especially for you......


...thank you, I can almost taste it!


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## netman (22 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> For @netman
> Wild camp spot google
> https://maps.app.goo.gl/fXcDVZG3rWtvBoWh9
> And
> ...



Thanks! Was actually trying to figure it out as I went through the post... and then there it was for me!



HobbesOnTour said:


> One thing that I have learned from this trip is that language enhances the experience on so many levels that any future trips will be to places that I can communicate with people. All the views, the mountains, the rivers, the deserts aren't half as impressive as chatting to people. At least for me.
> Uprooting and continuing somewhere else just isn't on the agenda for now. Not philosophically and certainly not budget wise.
> Stopping now leaves me with the Big, Big Trip Part Two for dreaming and inspiration.
> Instead, I'm going to ask the Colombians to extend my visa (straightforward, I believe) and pass another couple of months here then head back to Europe, probably Spain. More language practice!



Fantastic! Thank you so much for taking the time and making the effort to share your travels with us here. It's been hugely inspirational and extremely interesting and I'll look forward to the final chapters (as well as any possible future ones!). Thanks again


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## cwskas (22 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> ... and what a fertile desert. It obviously gets a fair bit of rain sometime.


More info on the Tatacoa Desert. And a very cool aerial view.

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Nov 2021)

netman said:


> Thanks! Was actually trying to figure it out as I went through the post... and then there it was for me!


You're the one doing all the work! It's me that's grateful to you! 
I really, really love it and use it to show off to people!😊




netman said:


> Fantastic! Thank you so much for taking the time and making the effort to share your travels with us here. *It's been hugely inspirational *and extremely interesting and I'll look forward to the final chapters (as well as any possible future ones!). Thanks again


The bolded bit is the most satisfying for me even if some is inspiration for what not to do!

I'll say it again - it's a very worthwhile thing to do, even if only for ourselves, never to be "published". 
Sometimes I'll "spin" through Google Photos and land on a random day. The memories are so vivid. Much more than previous adventures. 
And with a smartphone giving photos, voice memos and notes it is surprisingly easy.
It has been my pleasure!
And I can't wait to sit down and go through it properly😊

Oh, it's not finished yet!😊


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> More info on the Tatacoa Desert. And a very cool aerial view.
> 
> Willie


Thanks Willie!😊


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## cwskas (26 Nov 2021)

Best municipal sign yet, I think. Great shot!


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## IaninSheffield (26 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Hop on a loaded bike and roll into town. It's important to pack one thing - a smile. People will stare curiously, some will smile back shyly, the motorbikers will wave and when you pull up at the little Plaza an old man will give you a coffee that you have to fight to pay for. For the people around you'll become the centre of their conversations. They'll speculate where you're from, where you're going - not in any way disrespectfully, just curiously. They'll comment on snippets they can glean from your conversation with another. They'll watch you wander over to the church and perhaps slyly approach the bike for a better look. In most places that's a cause for concern. Not here. Away from the bike looking up this street and down that one you'll hear "that's him, the guy on the bike". You're a celebrity! In a far off country, in a little town, in the middle of nowhere (a beautiful, mountainy nowhere). It feels pretty good!


If a stranger who looks so different to 'us' pulled up in an English village, would she/he/they receive a similarly curious *but warm* welcome I wonder?


HobbesOnTour said:


> Interestingly, the way I am being addressed has changed. Up north people called out "Amigo" - friend or mate. In a shop I may be referred to as "Caballero" (Gentleman) or Señor (Sir/Mister). Of late, people reger to me as vecino (neighbour). I'm taking that to mean that I'm different, but welcome.


Now this (how you are being addressed) would be different in different parts of the UK. I wonder how someone with English as a second language, when arriving in a Yorkshire village shop, would react when welcomed as 'duck'?


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## cwskas (26 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Different animal warning signs





 "Before accelerating, let us cross" "I brake for animals"



HobbesOnTour said:


> I really, really have no idea!!




unexploded ordinance??? 

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Nov 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> If a stranger who looks so different to 'us' pulled up in an English village, would she/he/they receive a similarly curious *but warm* welcome I wonder?
> 
> Now this (how you are being addressed) would be different in different parts of the UK. I wonder how someone with English as a second language, when arriving in a Yorkshire village shop, would react when welcomed as 'duck'?


Well, to veer into NACA territory for a moment I read something recently to the effect of how the Union Jack has undergone a striking change in meaning from the days of "Cool Britannia" to a type of isolationist nationalism these days.
I've no doubt though, that welcomes, especially in smaller places, would be just as warm. You're a local, remember, and see through local eyes.
I think I included in the text too, the value of wearing a smile. That always helps! 

As for greetings...... I was welcomed to Scotland by someone yelling obscenities at me as only a good Celt can do! I can understand the friendly intent but I'm not sure how some others might interpret it! 

Interestingly, I hate the typical "luv" from barmaids and shop assistants (that I rightly or wrongly always associate with England) yet here, amor is used in exactly the same way and I find it charming - once I got used to it.

Travel - it broadens the mind


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## Scoosh (26 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Another sound today was water. It was almost ever present whether as a raging río, a whooshing waterfall or countless roadside rapids. There was a fury to the water today, like it didn't want to be here, was angry, in fact, and in a fierce rush to get somewhere else. The water alongside the road, in particular, whether in man made canals or self made rivers was flowing at a tremendous rate. Too fast to tinkle and sing it growled instead.


Wonderful how one's senses can be so heightened to be 'in tune' with nature. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> The first Hospedaje I tried was full but they suggested another around the corner


Quite a few have been full. Are these [for] travelling business people, country people come to town to re-stock ... ???
Do they really have that many 'travellers/tourists' ?


HobbesOnTour said:


> The AbSoLuteLy FABulous tree in the Plaza in Iquira


WOW – that's a stunner ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> If you ever tire of the humdrum of normal life, feel that you're insignificant and that life consists of just going through a series of numbing, repetitive motions then I have a cure!


Travel with Hobbes !  The huge difference between being a 'tourist' and a 'traveller'; one looks and goes away, the other becomes part of where they are and eat and drink it all in (both literally and figuratively). 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Then I saw the third way; Down to La Plata and stop. Make up my mind tomorrow!


Now _that's _travelling ! 


cwskas said:


> unexploded ordinance???


I was thinking 'explosives in use' - but you're probably more accurate, given the locality and it's recent past... 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Travel - it broadens the mind


----------



## Scoosh (27 Nov 2021)

*MOD HAT ON:*
I've Edited some of the links from recent posts on the Tour thread, so you should not be meeting someone from Cumbria now.


----------



## Scoosh (27 Nov 2021)

Most interested in how so many of these small towns seem to have a real sense of civic pride – their "Yo  .... (town name)" everywhere, the clean-looking plazas, brightly painted buildings, street art etc. It conveys a sense of pride, friendliness, happiness and peaceful way of life.

I can see why you are so laid-back about it all and enjoying it so much.  

... as are we, through you !


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## cwskas (28 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> ferocious waterfall


That is incredible . . . I assume there is a canyon between you and the waterfall. It looks like it is going straight into the earth.

And just imagine how many of those are in the mountains and not beside a road.


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## cwskas (28 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Towns along the way


The churches in Agrado & Garzon seem to me a bit different style. The stone is very pretty. As you go deeper into the interior, does it seem to you to be older areas? I will look it up on wikipedia and see if I can find an answer. Still in Huila district I see.


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Wonderful how one's senses can be so heightened to be 'in tune' with nature.



You flatter my senses! You have to remember that I'm slowly, very slowly going uphill - I'd need to be a particularly dense bike tourist not to notice. These flowing waters are not exactly subtle!


Scoosh said:


> Quite a few have been full. Are these [for] travelling business people, country people come to town to re-stock ... ???
> Do they really have that many 'travellers/tourists' ?



Eh, I can't recall too many being full. There was one place that I'm pretty sure the girl just didn't like the look of me.

But yes, there can be a lot of people staying, the type depending on the location.

A roadside town? A lot of truck drivers. 
A non-touristy town? Folks working in or around the town for a (presumably) short time. It may be staff for a temporary medical clinic, people working on the road construction (there's been quite a bit) and I've seen a Policeman leaving in the morning in full uniform. Some will have a room with anything up to 8 people. And an equivalent number of motorbikes parked up outside.
In all the places the cheapest options will have young couples looking for a bit of "privacy". 
There seems to be quite a lot of internal tourism taking place at the moment, explained to me as people who can't or won't go abroad discovering their own country. 


Scoosh said:


> Travel with Hobbes !


I'm not quite sure that such an option would be pleasant for a lot of people


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> *MOD HAT ON:*
> I've Edited some of the links from recent posts on the Tour thread, so you should not be meeting someone from Cumbria now.



Thank you!

What happened?
My internet is rarely good these days and uploading can take a long, long time but one uploaded I thought they were "safe"?

And you'll need to explain the "Cumbria" reference. Even _I_ would know if I was that lost!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Most interested in how so many of these small towns seem to have a real sense of civic pride – their "Yo  .... (town name)" everywhere, the clean-looking plazas, brightly painted buildings, street art etc. It conveys a sense of pride, friendliness, happiness and peaceful way of life.
> 
> I can see why you are so laid-back about it all and enjoying it so much.
> 
> ... as are we, through you !


I first noted the civic pride back in Durango in México and invariably the little old ladies sweeping outside their vividly painted houses no matter their condition. It's something that has continued more or less since there.

I really like the big signs although México has the best placement of them. Some in these parts are hard to manoeuvre to. 

Interestingly, there are often big billboards outside the town announcing a warm welcome to X but these are normally sponsored which is odd to my eye. Not local businesses either, usually a national soft drink or even beer (even stranger to my eyes) sponsor.

What I get a real kick out of are when the locals themselves are picked out and honoured.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> That is incredible . . . I assume there is a canyon between you and the waterfall. It looks like it is going straight into the earth.
> 
> And just imagine how many of those are in the mountains and not beside a road.


It falls into a (surprisingly small) river that flows under the road just before encountering the waterfall. 
I could hear a tremendous noise (not that unusual) but didn't see the waterfall until I passed it at that building in the photo.









The teeny tiny río!


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2021)

cwskas said:


> The churches in Agrado & Garzon seem to me a bit different style. The stone is very pretty. As you go deeper into the interior, does it seem to you to be older areas? I will look it up on wikipedia and see if I can find an answer. Still in Huila district I see.


In some of the bigger towns yes, there are older buildings but in the smaller more roadside places not so much. 
In some places other than perhaps the church and the civic offices there may not be much of a colonial vibe. 

Of late I'm finding the towns less architecturally interesting (generally) but that's compensated by interesting and interested people.


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## Scoosh (29 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> What happened?
> My internet is rarely good these days and uploading can take a long, long time but one uploaded I thought they were "safe"?


"safe" ?? – well, Yes ... but we Mods have access under the bonnet to some bits of the machinery and we can Edit/ Delete/ correct spelin  and a few other things.

When I clicked on the Chat Zone link, I was taken to the New Member's Introduction page, so did some checking and noticed that the last number of the Chat Zone link had been dropped, which changed the link to a New Member from Cumbria's introductory page - from March 2009 !

Members should be able to Edit their own posts for a day or two after posting – but we Mods can see if posts have been Edited and check back on the History.


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## Scoosh (29 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Look closely - a tree and a cactus embracing! There's inspiration in a troubled and divided world!


Lovely illustration. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> ..... She handed me three bananas when I asked for two and would take no money. At all. ......


Always interesting how people who relatively have so little, are often the most generous. 
Humbling too.


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Nov 2021)

Just an FYI ......
The Trampoline of Death is coming up soon so I'm not expecting to be online for a few days.
Those without a nervous disposition can have a peep on youtube or just wait for my reports
"Trampolin del muerto" "trampolin del diablo" will probably work and between Macao and Pasto.
Three days is pretty common to cover the ground and me being me I may take longer. There are some spectacular views but often lost in mist, cloud and rain. I may shorten days if I think I can improve the views!


----------



## cwskas (30 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> He got that look in the eye that suggested he was imagining himself inserted in some of my stories. At one stage he said that he'd love to do something like that himself


Whaaat! Who would do such a thing!!!


----------



## cwskas (30 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Just an FYI ......
> The Trampoline of Death is coming up soon


Well that looks like it well generate a lot of notes and photos.


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## Scoosh (30 Nov 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The lady refused me sugar, telling me that her coffee was so good it didn't need sugar!


Love someone who takes a real pride in their product ! 
We used to have a local ice cream shop which had plenty of lovely flavours but when we asked which was "the best" the man said "Oh, the vanilla – but we don't put it on display because we'd be forever refilling the display tub ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> There were other cyclists something I haven't seen in a while. With one exception none acknowledged me.


Typical roadies !!! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> A looooooooong way down!


That's almost vertigo inducing – and I'm looking at it on a computer screen !!! 
Beautiful, though. 

We look forward to hearing from you "on the other side" – and do try not to bounce off the trampoline !


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Nov 2021)

Scoosh said:


> That's almost vertigo inducing – and I'm looking at it on a computer screen !!!
> Beautiful, though.


Wait until you see what's coming!!


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Dec 2021)

We survived!😀
Normal service will resume after a hot, hot shower, lots of scrubbing, laundry and general pampering😊


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## cwskas (5 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A quiet night was had. And at midnight I turned 49.













What a youngster, you are!


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## cwskas (5 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> chatted to Jay from South Dakota here on a motorbike. He flew into Bogotá with his bike, is touring Colombia then going to fly to Chile and try to get into Argentina. He presumed I was on a motorbike too. He wasn't quite sure how to react when I pointed out Roccado!


Inside I am sure he was jealous!

I really like the sign for San Agustin and the variety of interesting wall art!


----------



## cwskas (5 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> the archaeological park


What an interesting place. I hope you have more photos. Here is a link to the UNESCO reference.


----------



## cwskas (5 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *Just enjoy*


Sounds reasonable to me.



> San Juan de Villalobos isn't so much a one horse town as a three legged blind mule town stretched along the road.





> I may be 49 but there's still a lot of 17 in me!


Well a birthday didn't cost your sense of humor!


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## cwskas (6 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Trampoline of Death Day One


What a fine collection of photos from an amazing place.

Did you have cell service at "_The famed cellphone tower #2"?  _


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> What a fine collection of photos from an amazing place.
> 
> Did you have cell service at "_The famed cellphone tower #2"? _


Thanks Willie!

The photos only give the barest taste of the experience! 
And no! No cell service! Apparently, it's referred to as a cell tower but it's actually TV/Internet I believe! 

I picked up random weak coverage as I progressed but it wasn't until I'd hit the high point on day three that I had a consistent signal. 
Bliss!


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## cwskas (7 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Setting off into the mist and the mystery . . . I was full of enthusiasm . . . there were always phantom trees to amuse me.


Sounds like a great start!



> I . . . became aware of my gender as the women suddenly focused their attention on poor little old me!
> 
> A cursory run through my trip and the conversation quickly focused on my single status with lots of in jokes shared amongst the ladies. They knew to slow down their speech when talking to me so I knew when the tempo increased they were talking about me. I'd had a look around outside and saw no comfortable places for a tent and fearful of a night alone with this pack I headed back out into the weather.



Kathy and I were quite entertained by this story. She especially liked the fact that you could tell when they were talking *about* you.

Amazing photos! Maybe this chapter can be titled "Hobbes in the Mist" .


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## cwskas (7 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The restaurant where I'd get permission to bed down in the school with a "chicken bus"* parked up outside.


What a great photo. That bus looks a lot better than the one you posted from a previous city . . . and you got "_The king of bikes"_ in the photo as well.


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## cwskas (8 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm delighted with myself for doing it, moreso I think for having achieved a kind of dream rather than the physical act of riding the road.
> There's a tremendous amount of satisfaction in that.



Well done! 

Not that you need or want our approval!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> Well done!
> 
> Not that you need or want our approval!


Thanks, Willie!

Ah, a little approval does no harm😊 I'm not a robot!


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## Scoosh (9 Dec 2021)

A bit late catching up , so here's the first "catch-up" comments:


HobbesOnTour said:


> Stopped to admire the coffee plants a tiny humming bird put in an appearance.


Love the way you are still seeing the little things like this. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not about to pull out my own food at a roadside restaurant especially not one as impoverished as this.





HobbesOnTour said:


> A surreptitious shot of my coffee and empanada stop. A simple display of crisps, soft drinks and empanadas. A flask for the coffee. The couple live in a two room shack their bed a mattress on the floor. It's a tough life in these parts


Very gracious and absolutely right, IMHO. Traveller vs Tourist again. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> ... a voice whispered "This is for you. No need to share. Just enjoy".


Sensible voice ! 
I fully get how very difficult it is to get a photo which captures the full emotion, colour, atmosphere, humidity, smell and _feeling_ of that exact time and place.  Even more so on a small phone camera !


HobbesOnTour said:


> I couldn't have designed it better myself


What an amazing and beautiful view. 
... and I know it was actually better in "real eye view" ; the camera lens/sensor always compensates for the lighter or darker bits of the photo, while the natural eyes just take it all in !


HobbesOnTour said:


> Being a totally selfish git I was thinking that it was a poor thing for cyclists if this road is improved while on the other hand I was glad that I got to travel it before the improvements are completed. What a dick!


You can always go back and do a comparison  when it's finished ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Then Wonder Wuss takes over ... ... but this happened less and less as the day wore on. I guess we really do get more comfortable as we push out our boundaries. Literal and metaphorical.


Knowing we didn't die or injure ourselves can do a lot for our confidence – and we realise we are more able/capable than we thought ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> There were times when I was feeling very emotional looking down on these scenes. Not only was I living my dream I was doing it in such spectacular circumstances.





HobbesOnTour said:


> A magical, magical road!!


Thank you for inviting us to join your dream and live it with you ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Uncompacted clay and stones, minimal visibility, magic tape..... I wanted adventure and I'm sure getting it!!


Tremendous photo ! Really captures the contrast between the clearer skies and the mist and damp. How many others who have ridden this road have seem the brightness you have ? Not many AFAICS from the few reports I've read ...


HobbesOnTour said:


> No words





HobbesOnTour said:


> Then there's the scenery. I've become quite accustomed to it all. That's not to say I'm bored. Not at all. But I wonder if someone from far away would be able to process it all? Would they have the time and the luxury to make friends with the trees? To know which ones speak to them and lift their spirits?


I genuinely doubt it – but that's because you are a fascinated traveller, absorbing all you can and sharing it, your thoughts, pictures, experiences etc with us.
You stop enough to be amazed at the views etc; do you ever take time to look and think "Wow – I've just cycled up _that_ ???   


HobbesOnTour said:


> One blog I had read before inspired the note "not as friendly as before". A couple had noted over the whole Trampoline that people shunned them, ignored them and generally made them feel unwelcome. I didn't notice that at all, quite the opposite in fact.


Maybe being solo, interested and courteous makes the difference ? Also this…:


HobbesOnTour said:


> ... and often short chats


More than 'communication' - that's 'connection'.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I also asked myself what it must be like to fly into a place and do a route like this or the Alto de Letras .... As I rode up I wondered what those people would be missing.


Tourists vs Travellers  ... but, to be fair, not everyone can have or make the time to be the Traveller. Many just don't have the time/flexibility in their lives to be able to take off and do as you are doing and "a marathon or ...(a) triathlon or do *one of those obstacle courses that involves lots of mud and tears*" is as much adventure/ challenge as they have time/ inclination/ courage/ nerves to do.
Families are great ... but also change one's priorities/ requirements/ desire for adventure ... 


*...*: Yes, I signed up for one of these 2 years ago, to complete it shortly before another 'significant' birthday. It's been Covid-delayed since then, so I now find myself faced with the prospect of doing it _past_ that 'significant' date and 2 years older ! 
Now whose bright idea was that ... persuasive Mrs Scoosh ??? (she did one a few years ago ...)
There will not be a Report.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Dec 2021)

Thanks for all the comments



Scoosh said:


> do you ever take time to look and think "Wow – I've just cycled up _that_ ???


All the time! And sometimes not even big hills
I still get a thrill at looking at @netman 's map. I am very impressed with myself😊
I can't keep writing it down though



Scoosh said:


> to be fair, not everyone can have or make the time to be the Traveller. Many just don't have the time/flexibility in their lives to be able to take off and do as you are doing and "a marathon or ...(a) triathlon or do *one of those obstacle courses that involves lots of mud and tears*" is as much adventure/ challenge as they have time/ inclination/ courage/ nerves to do.
> Families are great ... but also change one's priorities/ requirements/ desire for adventure


I didn't mean to come across as critical or that one way is better than another. 
And I am very well aware that not everyone can do what I have been able to do. I'm very lucky and a little brave (or foolish - the jury's still out)

I think I was perhaps clumsily, trying to make the point that there's more to these experiences than just riding the road and hitting the peaks. (I just rode a road that I rate as tougher than the Alto de Letras - but no-one has put a sign up on it!).
The implication being that any road can be as "special" or as rewarding as the Trampoline.

I'd imagine that over there right now there's a lot of frustrated bike tourists chomping at the bit to get out and away. 
It need not be somewhere exotic or "famous". A day or two jaunt around the local area can be just as rewarding personally if approached in the right state of mind. It won't check off any peaks, it might look boring on Social Media, friends and family might think you're nuts but _personally_? It can be as rewarding as you want it and allow it to be. 

I could sell a tour to people by emphasising the meters climbed on a famous road, the top level bike they'd use and the spa day at the end. I'd go out of business trying to sell a tour to people telling them of the trees they'd make friends with

As for the triathlons and things I was just amused at myself. I'd never consider such a thing yet happily set off into extreme discomfort for "my" thing. 
Just sitting here over a coffee I'm thinking that it may be that a triathlon/marathon/mudfest requires "training" and that word leaves me cold.
I'll practice as much as I can but training? No thanks! That sounds unpleasant. 



Scoosh said:


> Maybe being solo, interested and courteous makes the difference ? Also this…:


Honestly? I think it's my big, dumb grin that does it, even through a facemask.
A few years ago I was severely chastised on a different forum for commenting on yet another gear list that no-one ever included a smile. It's the most important thing in my world. 



Scoosh said:


> There will not be a Report.


If I can include failed midnight runs () to the bathroom then surely you can give a brief account?


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## Scoosh (9 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The famed "cellphone tower #2". And I cycled up to it!


Ooops - I just answered my earlier question ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> At the end of the day I had a profound sense of gratitude. I had completed day one successfully and safely.





HobbesOnTour said:


> ... and fearful of a night alone with this pack I headed back out into the weather.


"Single Irish Americas Traveller scared of a Few Women" headline ? 
Somehow, I suspect there is more to this than you're telling ... and it's best left that way ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> No railing and a recent landslide. All roads should be like this!


I've been trying to work out if you were mostly (meant to be) riding on the Mountain side of the road ... or the Drop-to-Your-Death side ? Or was it one going up and t'other going down ? 



HobbesOnTour said:


> I didn't mean to come across as critical or that one way is better than another.


My apologies , I wasn't intending to be at all critical of you, just the realities of life make it more difficult for many folk, who are unable to fulfil their on-the-road dreams.


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## Scoosh (12 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I passed the only hotel in town and continued up the hill to the little Plaza and church. I struggled to find a coffee and was struggling to feel comfortable.


Isn't it interesting how one develops a 'feel' for a place – good or bad, relaxed or uneasy, friendly or not ?
You should be well tuned by now !


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> "Single Irish Americas Traveller scared of a Few Women" headline ?
> Somehow, I suspect there is more to this than you're telling ... and it's best left that way !






Scoosh said:


> I've been trying to work out if you were mostly (meant to be) riding on the Mountain side of the road ... or the Drop-to-Your-Death side ? Or was it one going up and t'other going down ?



With the switchbacks it was both although the steepest drops tended to be on day one and early day two. 
In truth with traffic generally bunched together I could choose my side most of the time. At the start that was cliffside (opposite of drop side) irrespective of the road condition. As time went one it was whatever side was easiest for riding. If stopping, I invariably pulled up cliffside because starting off tended to be wobbly.



Scoosh said:


> My apologies , I wasn't intending to be at all critical of you, just the realities of life make it more difficult for many folk, who are unable to fulfil their on-the-road dreams.


I didn't see any criticism. I tend to evangelise when it comes to bike travel and sometimes my words can be stronger than I meant.


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Isn't it interesting how one develops a 'feel' for a place – good or bad, relaxed or uneasy, friendly or not ?
> You should be well tuned by now !


There is that, but also a lot is in our heads. 
Santiago had a smaller, bleaker, colder Plaza and coffee was hard to find. Straight away it was behind Colón. That would have affected my mood and my mood would have affected my impression of the place.


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## Scoosh (13 Dec 2021)

Perhaps my road-side definitions should have been the "Mud-Slide" side or the "Drop-to-Your-Death" side !
Either way – pretty ... hmmm  ... "unnerving"  .... until you get used to it !


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Now whose bright idea was that ... persuasive Mrs Scoosh ??? (she did one a few years ago ...)
> There will not be a Report.


Very humorous! I can relate at least to the persuasive part!


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> lucky . . . a little brave . . . or foolish . . . mood . . . *Coffee*


Sounds like essential ingredients of a good recipe, plus your clear and (almost always present) attitude of expectation and wonder.


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The implication being that any road can be as "special" or as rewarding as the Trampoline.


We often find what we are looking for, IMO, be it doom or delight! So much can be found in the situations in which we find ourselves. What we focus on matters.

I am particularly fond of your observation that a headwind at least keeps you cool! That illustrates for me your general attitude toward your travels.



HobbesOnTour said:


> It can be as rewarding as you want it and allow it to be.





HobbesOnTour said:


> a smile. It's the most important thing in my world.


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## cwskas (13 Dec 2021)

Donger said:


> Once more I can vouch for the mental benefits of solo cycling. I had been really struggling with the wording of my brother's eulogy, but found the words just came to me as I pounded away today. I always find that, in the bad times, cycling either gives you the opportunity to think things over, or it lets you completely let go and clear your mind. Today it was the former.



I thought the above quote to be quite well said and appropriate to the recent discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Perhaps my road-side definitions should have been the "Mud-Slide" side or the "Drop-to-Your-Death" side !
> Either way – pretty ... hmmm  ... "unnerving"  .... until you get used to it !


What's more unnerving is trying not to drop the phone over the side when taking a photo!


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> I am particularly fond of your observation that a headwind at least keeps you cool! That illustrates for me your general attitude toward your travels.



I have a vivid recollection of a day's cycling home from outside of Utrecht after a night camping in heavy rain. As I headed south the wind blowing north was brutal! A puncture was a blessed relief for a while.
I zigged, I zagged but the wind got me at every turn.
If you'd met me that day you wouldn't have such a rosy picture of my attitude to headwinds


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> We often find what we are looking for, IMO, be it doom or delight! So much can be found in the situations in which we find ourselves. What we focus on matters.


That's very true.
Travelling solo, though, we only have ourselves to help keep on the right track. 
Sometimes when we're not finding what we are looking for it helps to take a step back and reassess just what we are looking for. 
It's a habit that is worth cultivating - looking for the small details that can help reconstruct the bigger picture.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2021)

I climb 1000 meters and just before the descent the heavens don't just open they are overwhelmed with water!
At least I've good internet to read this article
https://www.theguardian.com/lifeand...pher-then-i-stayed-home-and-my-world-expanded

A little explanation on the joys of cycling close to home.
I think the subject is a member here?
Also, I think there's a thread here somewhere but navigationally challenged me can't find it😊


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## Shadow (14 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I climb 1000 meters and just before the descent the heavens don't just open they are overwhelmed with water!
> At least I've good internet to read this article
> https://www.theguardian.com/lifeand...pher-then-i-stayed-home-and-my-world-expanded
> 
> ...


Yup, that's hoopdriver. Start here.


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## Shadow (14 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> Yup, that's hoopdriver. Start here.


And there is another of his published articles linked from here. (Maybe behind a paywall now, sadly).


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## Shadow (15 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> In México yesterday an articulated truck rolled over killing 53 migrants in the back.


I saw this in one of the weekend newspapers. In addition to having similar thoughts, I wondered how the driver managed to flip an artic truck over on what appeared to a wide, dry road albeit on a slight curve. And the report stated he scarpered too. Tragic.

_"I can't help but think that there are a lot of societies that could do with an infusion of the basic humanity I've witnessed and experienced again and again."_
Oh how so, so true.

_"Dying in a dark trailer after tipping over on a road is a risk that many will still take."_
I am not sure they were aware the truck might be flipped on its side! But yes, plenty of other risks too. And this happens all over, on a daily basis. Close to home, the risks taken by the folk who have managed to get from where they have escaped from, to the north french to coast and then cross the english channel to what they hope is a better life in the UK, must also be staggering. I struggle to imagine the horrors of what they have left behind and makes me think how privileged we are.

Looking forward to reading/seeing Las Lajas!


p.s. can someone pls let me know I can take multiple quotes from one thread, e.g. the Big Trip Journal, to another, e.g. here, without copying and pasting as I have above. Ta.


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## IaninSheffield (15 Dec 2021)

@Shadow Highlight the text you want to quote, click +Quote in the bottom right of the post, repeat for other texts you want to quote.
Navigate to the box where you want to make the quotes, choose Insert Quotes, and finally Quote Message from the pop up.


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## cwskas (16 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Back on the PanAmerican! But we're not in Panamá anymore. Pedregal.


What exceptional street art!


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## cwskas (16 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> can someone pls let me know I can take multiple quotes from one thread, e.g. the Big Trip Journal, to another, e.g. here, without copying and pasting as I have above.





IaninSheffield said:


> Highlight the text you want to quote, click +Quote in the bottom right of the post, repeat for other texts you want to quote.
> Navigate to the box where you want to make the quotes, choose Insert Quotes, and finally Quote Message from the pop up.



Thank you for asking the question, @Shadow and for the answer @IaninSheffield. I have used that feature before, but had forgotten how. I just tested and had 19 accumulated quotes waiting for me to insert them!


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## cwskas (16 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> . . . good news in two stages . . . my visitor permit to Colombia has been extended to March
> 
> The second bit of good news popped up later. I'd applied through the Irish Government website for my U.S. Covid vaccine to be recognised by the EU.
> . . . at least now I'm in the system.


Congratulations on both counts!


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## cwskas (16 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Visibility was unhindered and I felt like I could see forever
> 
> Everything seemed so alive, so vital, myself included! There were whoops of joy many, many times
> 
> The landscape never stopped amazing me





HobbesOnTour said:


> I wasn't in the least bothered about doubling back - this was a bright, shiny new world for me to explore


What a difference a little light makes! Such great pictures!


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## IaninSheffield (16 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Turning around and heading "home"





cwskas said:


> What a difference a little light makes! Such great pictures!


Retracing one's steps (pedal strokes?) rarely holds much appeal, but on this occasion ... wow! An inspired decision/whim.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Retracing one's steps (pedal strokes?) rarely holds much appeal, but on this occasion ... wow! An inspired decision/whim.


It really was! And I have no idea where it came from!
Hence the 9 pages of photos😊

Of course, I have no idea what I missed on "the road not taken". Maybe I'll have to go back

Oh! I forgot to put in that I picked up my lock at the hotel and had a nice chat with the lady and the lady from the general/hardware store too. A day that could have been so dark and depressing turned out to be anything but.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> What a difference a little light makes! Such great pictures!


Yes! It's truly a great road. Under normal circumstances I'd have been distracted by the impending border crossing.
Of course, traffic was probably lighter than normal too - but the roadworks (twice) certainly helped this cyclist.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> Close to home, the risks taken by the folk who have managed to get from where they have escaped from, to the north french to coast and then cross the english channel to what they hope is a better life in the UK, must also be staggering. I struggle to imagine the horrors of what they have left behind and makes me think how privileged we are.


Agreed.

I don't want to veer too much into NACA territory but one of the real problems with the polarisation so common these days is the lack of thought that is given to "the other side" of the argument. 

"They are all X. They just want Y" is far too simple for such complex issues. 
"Why?" is often the most important word for gaining understanding but is often abused. 

I've received several warnings from locals to be careful of "The Venezuelans" and I've encountered them on long, lonely stretches of road. Invariably they are either friendly and supportive or sullen and withdrawn. When you see an entire family shuffling along the roadside, belongings strapped to buggies, shopping trolleys and homemade carts in plastic bags it's easy to understand why some would be sullen.

Between San Juan and Ipiales there is a refugee/migrant help station for these people. Seemingly in the middle of nowhere yet a long line of people along the road attest to its necessity.

Not that long ago Venezuela was a pretty decent place to live by Latin American standards. Now there is a long line of Venezuelans traipsing north and south through the Latin world with no more than they can carry.
If the Government changed tomorrow a huge proportion of the population are gone - rebuilding will be so much more difficult.

There's an entire section of the Colombian Immigration website given over to helping Venezuelans so it's not all bad news.
The Spanish conquest and subsequent struggle for Independence has created a bond between countries that is perhaps uncommon in the world I'm more familiar with.

Since the accident the Mexican President has called on the US to do more to prevent the exodus from Central America by providing relief and investment. 
Looking at the bigger picture, China is applying pressure (or offering incentives if you prefer) on Central American countries to "unrecognise" Taiwan. 
The big countries play their games and people suffer.


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## Shadow (16 Dec 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> @Shadow Highlight the text you want to quote, click +Quote in the bottom right of the post, repeat for other texts you want to quote.
> Navigate to the box where you want to make the quotes, choose Insert Quotes, and finally Quote Message from the pop up.


Many thanks Ian.
Will let you know how we get on!


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> I just tested and had 19 accumulated quotes waiting for me to insert them!





Shadow said:


> Many thanks Ian.
> Will let you know how we get on!


Uh oh!


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Anyone with a bit of time on their hands......
Here's the Trampoline Album.

Enjoy!


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## cwskas (17 Dec 2021)

@HobbesOnTour In case you didn’t see it, @Dave 123 posted a fine tree picture on the your ride today thread.


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## cwskas (19 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I had not been looking forward to this day - the day I turned around and this Big, Big Trip started heading for home - but as is so often the case on this trip my fears were unfounded and were obliterated by the journey.


So many good photos! It is hard to imagine what it was like it person!


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## cwskas (19 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> And coffee! I can reach out and touch the plants. I don't understand it but these are my "bliss" plants


Have you kept track of how many liters of coffee you have consumed? 

May be the best street art yet!



HobbesOnTour said:


> a hotel with hot water, a place for Roccado . . . A hot shower . . . a busy grill restaurant. When I saw my plate arrive I knew just how right I was this morning - a great day!


I bet you slept well that night!


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## cwskas (19 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Celebratory street art Yacuanquer


Such a variety of style, clearly not just one artist.



HobbesOnTour said:


> In all directions there are "characters" heading towards the crib - some recognisable and others, very, very local. And lots of animals! A wonderful, child friendly display.


What interesting "characters". The design and painting of them is very interesting. Could you tell what they were made of? I especially like the "cuy on a spit".


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

It's always good to get notifications of multiple quotes



cwskas said:


> So many good photos! It is hard to imagine what it was like it person!



It's hard to describe it!



cwskas said:


> Have you kept track of how many liters of coffee you have consumed?


Jeez Willie! I can only keep track of my mileage because of the computer

I've broken the 15,000km mark! It only took 26 months😊

I will say though, that I still have some blood in my coffee system!



cwskas said:


> What interesting "characters". The design and painting of them is very interesting. Could you tell what they were made of? I especially like the "cuy on a spit".


Willie! I'm clearly a foreigner and appreciate the welcome I usually receive in these places. I'm not about to risk getting run out of town by groping the statues!

I'm pretty sure the cuy guy was plastic though


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

I'm hoping to have a few days off over Christmas and some good Wifi will hopefully be available.

If anyone has any ideas for an album of photos that they'd like to see I'm open to suggestions......

I'm not guaranteeing that I'll do it though😊


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## Shadow (20 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> put me in the shower with a cold beer after a crap day and it is one of the simplest yet most decadent, pleasures in life


Sounds blissful.

Doesn't the beer get diluted though?!!!!


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## Shadow (20 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> Will let you know how we get on!


Post above using this method, albeit with one quote, magic! Thanks.


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> Sounds blissful.
> 
> Doesn't the beer get diluted though?!!!!


Ah bless! You think it lasts long enough to be diluted


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## Scoosh (21 Dec 2021)

Catching up again ...


HobbesOnTour said:


> The things my mind will do when I'm climbing!


Anything to stop for a rest photo op ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> It seems like the clouds are crashing over them like waves on rocks on a stormy coastline


Ah  The poet romantic returns !  


HobbesOnTour said:


> México had signs asking people to remove fallen rocks - a good habit I have acquired if a little dangerous


Could you _ever_ see that working in UK/Europe ???


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## Shadow (21 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> ...here's some more street art from Pasto...


Some of these are fantastic, really atmospheric and very different from some of the others we've seen.
Did you look at the small plaques next to them? Did they convey any useful details?


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Could you _ever_ see that working in UK/Europe ???



Actually, I could! 

But remember....


Scoosh said:


> Ah  The poet romantic returns !



When I see the usual rants about drivers on here (or cyclists elsewhere) I can't help but think that the solution to such aggro lies not in rules, enforcement and punishment but in changing attitudes.

If we give up on the idea that we can change then life is going to be pretty bad.

So, to turn the question around, why wouldn't it work?

I can only think of one reason - liability and insurance. 

There are similar examples, though like organised litter picks, or cleaning sections of rivers and canals. Of course, they're organised, not spontaneous and wouldn't be necessary in the first place if people didn't litter. 

Give it a hashtag #clearingrocks and connect to Instagram and Tiktok and away we go!

Sorry, I'm not feeling very cynical these days


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> Some of these are fantastic, really atmospheric and very different from some of the others we've seen.
> Did you look at the small plaques next to them? Did they convey any useful details?


Can you not zoom in?
The boat one, at least, is legible (my favourite, of course).

It's artist name, title and the technical details - ie what it is painted on.
And the "Museum open to the world"

I may be a crap tourist but I'm not a bad journalist😊


----------



## Scoosh (21 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> No words........


What _stunning  _photographs ! Just breathtaking – and that's from here ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Now that's a waterfall!!


Or 2  ... any idea of its height ?  


HobbesOnTour said:


> Moss overhanging the road. In real life this is spectacular!


Is there any evidence of the overhanging moss causing rockfalls – or is the road new enough that it's not an issue ?


HobbesOnTour said:


> I was home in Pedregal before the rain. Even this little place looked brighter and livelier


What a difference it makes to a town/village when the houses are painted bright colours ! 



HobbesOnTour said:


> But ....... I wonder how México would appear to me now with more improved Spanish?


Anyone got any ideas for a confused traveller ? 

Really loving your write-ups and tapping in to the joy, excitement and thrills you are experiencing.


----------



## Shadow (21 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Can you not zoom in?


Yes....but sadly not enough to read them!


HobbesOnTour said:


> title


That is _exactly _what I wanted to see!


HobbesOnTour said:


> but I'm not a bad journalist


So, come on then , tell us....!!!


@IaninSheffield - this multi quote stuff is wonderful, ta muchly.
(like most things, easy when you know how)


----------



## Scoosh (21 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Yacuanquer. The characters in the Plaza brought a big smile to my wet face


The white paint on the base of the trees look (to me, at any rate ) like the trees are a big dog, with grey legs and white 'socks'/feet !


HobbesOnTour said:


> Snowmen!


They don't appear to get snow in winter, according to WorldWeatherOnline. They do do rain, though ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> In all directions there are "characters" heading towards the crib





HobbesOnTour said:


> What it also has, which makes it spectacular in my opinion, are local characters - especially the guy making sugar cane juice.


What a lovely concept ... 


HobbesOnTour said:


> This one is outside someone's house.


Just wonderful – and so much more interesting, creative and skilful than a bunch of blow-up Santas on a roof !

Really enjoying your journey  and your kindness in keeping us all in suspense ...


----------



## Shadow (21 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Anyone with a bit of time on their hands......
> Here's the Trampoline Album.


Thanks. Fantastic. Worth waiting for!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Or 2  ... any idea of its height ?


No! 


Scoosh said:


> Is there any evidence of the overhanging moss causing rockfalls – or is the road new enough that it's not an issue ?


I'm bemused! 
How in the name of all that's holy am I supposed to know?


Scoosh said:


> Really enjoying your journey  and your kindness in keeping us all in suspense ...


I'm confused..... What suspense? 
Glad you're enjoying it (but not as glad as I am to be doing it)
If you really are in Edinburgh you can stand me a pint or two of 80 shilling, preferably Alloa, the next time I pass through


----------



## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> So, come on then , tell us....!!!


The boat one is by 
Andrés Latorre Ruano, it's entitled "La Conquesta" and it's on tile

The rest will have to wait until I have some sleep.

You might like

View: https://youtu.be/CuxkZQh-3ts


----------



## Scoosh (22 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Is there any evidence of the overhanging moss causing rockfalls – or is the road new enough that it's not an issue ?





HobbesOnTour said:


> How in the name of all that's holy am I supposed to know?


Well, because in quite a few of your photos, there appear to have been mudslides (clear brown hillside visible) in the midst of roadside hill with moss growing, so I just wondered if the moss was helping to root the hillside on or the weight of the moss was bringing it down. If these links take one back to the photos, you might see what I mean ?


HobbesOnTour said:


> That's my road over there!





HobbesOnTour said:


> Whatever about the horizon there was lots on my side of the road to keep me amused too.





HobbesOnTour said:


> What were grey and vague down the road slowly became green and detailed


From the Trampoline Album:






HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm confused..... What suspense?


Yeah, me too   – not sure what I was meaning to say ...


----------



## HobbesOnTour (23 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> Well, because in quite a few of your photos, there appear to have been mudslides (clear brown hillside visible) in the midst of roadside hill with moss growing, so I just wondered if the moss was helping to root the hillside on or the weight of the moss was bringing it down. If these links take one back to the photos, you might see what I mean ?
> 
> 
> From the Trampoline Album:
> ...


I can't imagine the weight of moss pulling anything down.
The moss initially referenced was hanging from overhanging rock - I'd be pretty sure that the rock was well tested or it would have been removed. This is earthquake country after all.

As regards landslides the content of the hillsides varies through the levels. I'd imagine in some cases the plant life growing on it gives some structural support and I could see in other cases that roots would allow for the ingress of water and the weakening of the mountain face over time.
There are lots of quarries where soil, sand and gravel are removed to make bricks as an example. These are often small because solid rock sandwiches the softer material that is extracted.

I know nothing about these things other than the moss is very atmospheric and I like looking at it


----------



## IaninSheffield (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> When he was finished and presented it to me for testing I told him he was an artist with his welding tools. It's a strange thing to see such a man, physically strong, dressed in dirty overalls, coated in sweat and grime from his work *blush like a schoolgirl.*


Your Spanish may now be receiving compliments, but are you sure you called him an artist?


----------



## netman (24 Dec 2021)

Feliz Navidad @HobbesOnTour - hope you enjoy your break in Popayan...


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Am I taking a break and resting up or stopping to savour some of Nature's music? Who cares!





HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm a long, long way from home when that is someone's reaction to a stranger lurking under their roof.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Coffee at the back of the hostel.


So many interesting pictures. And thank you for the picture of the coffee before harvest.


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My plan was relatively simple. Explore the few villages along this road, enjoy the views and get a place to stay.





HobbesOnTour said:


> I love the idea of being in the clouds (even if that often means discomfort from being wet).





HobbesOnTour said:


> there's not a lot better than stopping and just ....... being.





HobbesOnTour said:


> I wanted to record this experience and just how content and relaxed I was.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Sometimes I actually cycled!


I could read the contentment in your words, but it is a great picture! You have a lot for which to feel content, thankful, peaceful . . . !


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There's always a ******* jackass Part Two


After reading Part One, I had forgotten the title. What a turn of events!



HobbesOnTour said:


> Home, safe and relaxed.


One jackass < many beautiful views!

La Florida looked quite nice. The most recent towns seem to have brighter colors . . . almost like they are new instead of worn.


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There was an open area that seemed to be used as an open air museum.


What an interesting painting! Perhaps a couple who had lost a child.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Then he announced that he'd drive on to the Police, tell them where I was and they'd look after me. That was a good solution. I thanked them profusely and set off again.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Nervous now, I turned around at one stage then took some deep breaths and continued on bouncing slowly uphill


Wow, a lot to think about on this stage of the journey! And then discover you had no highway access. Maybe that is what everyone was trying to emphasize. But that wouldn't require police or explain Robert De Niro's concern.


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Things were going so well that something had to balance things out and an unexpected tunnel did just that!





HobbesOnTour said:


> the road I had planned to avoid!😊





HobbesOnTour said:


> Setting off up again I still had a long way to go. Having never cared about climbing information before this trip I now use it all the time.


ADVENTURE!


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Renault 4!


Parked turned away from the road and with a block in front of the tire! An experienced driver.


----------



## cwskas (24 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Roccado was specifically chosen for two reasons - the type of bike he is means that there are clones (and thus spare parts) just about anywhere and the fact that he's steel means that in worst case scenarios he can be welded.
> 
> Today he got welded!
> 
> ...


Good catch, which led to a fine chat with "an artist with his welding tools".



HobbesOnTour said:


> Nothing ventured nothing gained I pulled up and asked the pleasant lady on reception about the cost of their simplest room to discover that it was well in my budget! And it had a pool! A day relaxing? Sold!





HobbesOnTour said:


> Street art in the busy little town of El Bordo


Very relaxing, pastoral tones.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (24 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> I could read the contentment in your words, but it is a great picture! You have a lot for which to feel content, thankful, peaceful . . . !


I sure do!😊
I'm thinking you haven't read the last post? I'm a bit rough after all the medication but it's Christmas and downtime so it could have been worse.



cwskas said:


> La Florida looked quite nice. The most recent towns seem to have brighter colors . . . almost like they are new instead of worn.


Those days the towns are "off the beaten track" and I'm thinking an attempt has been made to develop some tourism. 
There's also a more pure (or less diluted) indigenous vibe to the places. I can't help but think that paint, colours and murals are an expression of that identity



cwskas said:


> What an interesting painting! Perhaps a couple who had lost a child.


Unfortunately what looks like an information board in the bottom left is blank so I can't comment. But isn't that the thing with art that we see that which affects us?



cwskas said:


> Wow, a lot to think about on this stage of the journey! And then discover you had no highway access. Maybe that is what everyone was trying to emphasize. But that wouldn't require police or explain Robert De Niro's concern.



I'm pretty sure I could have made it onto the highway by staying on the "road" (a very generous term) but by then, honestly, my nerves were fraying and I just wanted out of there. 
I wasn't seeing anything I hadn't seen lots of times before but the warning was ringing loudly between my ears. 




cwskas said:


> Parked turned away from the road and with a block in front of the tire! An experienced driver.



I'm impressed with the level of study you give to the pictures!
Rocks are often used in lieu of handbrakes around here. And never, ever, e v e r get too close to the back of a truck or bus that is stopped in the road. Hill starts are not a great skill of the typical Latin driver


----------



## chriswoody (24 Dec 2021)

Hobbes, I've not had chance to catch up with your last few posts, but I will soon. Thanks for all of the wonderful writing and photos you've posted this year and I wish you a happy and contented Christmas wherever you happen to be at this moment in time.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (24 Dec 2021)

chriswoody said:


> Hobbes, I've not had chance to catch up with your last few posts, but I will soon. Thanks for all of the wonderful writing and photos you've posted this year and I wish you a happy and contented Christmas wherever you happen to be at this moment in time.


Thanks Chris😊
I'll be looking forward to reading about your adventures in the new year too!


----------



## cwskas (26 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> the smallest room ever - just big enough for a bed. No towel, no soap, no toilet paper and no toilet seat. Luxury!


I just had to give that quote it's own space!


----------



## cwskas (26 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm thinking you haven't read the last post?


And right you were! 



HobbesOnTour said:


> I got bitten by a dog last night. . . . My first reaction was surprise but they swiftly got close and weren't backing away. One rounded behind me and got me in the back of my right leg behind the knee.


Yikes! That is one of the things which is a bit worrisome when I ride, since I am low to the ground. However, I have not been bitten so far.



HobbesOnTour said:


> The danger is rabies, something I have been vaccinated for but the treatment requires several shots spaced out over time. Rabies is not a nice way to die so I'd like to prevent it, if possible.


The vaccine and the prevention both sound like wisdom to me! I am glad you had the supplies for instant attention as well as the opportunity to get the shots immediately.


----------



## cwskas (26 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> At one such break a character showed up armed with a shovel. Deep potholes on both sides of the road had been filled in with gravel and he set about shovelling gravel from one hole to another - once. The rest of the time he spent taking the coins out of his pocket and counting them over and over then thrusting his cap out to passing traffic. Because of the tendency for traffic to arrive in packs he was doing no business whatsoever and I took a certain pleasure in that. It wasn't that he was doing practically nothing it was the fact that he was making the situation even more dangerous by standing in the middle of the road waving his shovel about.


That is a funny story.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (26 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> Yikes! That is one of the things which is a bit worrisome when I ride, since I am low to the ground. However, I have not been bitten so far.


The thought did cross my mind when we were whizzing around Austin on your trikes. There's a head/facial vulnerability that I noticed. 



cwskas said:


> The vaccine and the prevention both sound like wisdom to me! I am glad you had the supplies for instant attention as well as the opportunity to get the shots immediately.


I have a small but well stocked first aid kit. For all my impulsiveness/foolishness (delete as appropriate) there is _some_ semblance of preparation 😊

You know it never crossed my mind that the hospital wouldn't have the shots. If I had been a bit more switched on I could have asked about that. The good news with the rabies shots is that I have a couple of more opportunities to ask!

It was strange going through my yellow "Vaccine passport" to see that I had received my original three shots in December/January 5 years ago (in preparation for a March departure - which never happened). I checked the lifespan before I left this time.
There is _some_ method to my madness


----------



## HobbesOnTour (26 Dec 2021)

cwskas said:


> That is a funny story


He really annoyed me!
I've passed people doing this before and thought it amusing. This time not so much. I think it was the fact that he did nothing to improve the situation and probably made it worse. 
Five minutes with the shovel would have sorted it. Too lazy to do even that.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2021)

A more professional approach.....
Bikepacking The Andes - A Colombian Gravel Epic: 
View: https://youtu.be/x0s3GSm25Us


It's an hour and a half long but worth it. Listen out for the alarm birds! And laugh out loud at his comment about riding fully laden.


----------



## Alex321 (28 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A more professional approach.....
> Bikepacking The Andes - A Colombian Gravel Epic:
> View: https://youtu.be/x0s3GSm25Us
> 
> ...



Definitely worth watching.I have a GCN+ subscription, so saw it months ago and enjoyed it. I like most of the ones they do with Jenny Graham, though I could never ride the sort of distances she does. 

I was wondering whether to re-watch it after reading your Columbian experiences.


----------



## Alex321 (31 Dec 2021)

So, if the Equadorian border is now open, are you considering continuing your journey?


----------



## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Alex321 said:


> So, if the Equadorian border is now open, are you considering continuing your journey?


I am continuing my journey......
Just not in a southerly direction.


----------



## Scoosh (31 Dec 2021)

It doesn't sound as if you had a particularly "Happy" Christmas.  
Being away from "home", not knowing anyone around, being a recovering pin-cushion  and in a rather crappy town doth not a Happy Christmas make. 

Hope you and 'it' gets better by the time 2022 comes around ... 
Meanwhile, from all of us –  and maybe even  !


----------



## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Scoosh said:


> It doesn't sound as if you had a particularly "Happy" Christmas.
> Being away from "home", not knowing anyone around, being a recovering pin-cushion  and in a rather crappy town doth not a Happy Christmas make.
> 
> Hope you and 'it' gets better by the time 2022 comes around ...
> Meanwhile, from all of us –  and maybe even  !


No, it wasn't the happiest Christmas ever but that's the way when travelling, no?
Last year in CDMX my plans to get away camping for a few days were shot down last minute by a lockdown but I could still wander around. The year before in Texas was very pleasant - a home from home. 
It's all jigs and reels, spins and roundabouts.
The shots didn't help this year either.

If it wasn't holiday season I'd be on the road and no doubt enjoying that more. As it is being off the road at the moment is no bad thing - The news last night was full of stories of gridlock. 75,000 people stranded in the Bogotá bus station. The local paper (Calí) yesterday was covering the worst day of traffic congestion.... Ever - on the day that I arrived

Things could be a whole lot worse! 

As it is, I've a few days to explore Calí, take it easy and do a few things to Roccado. Coffee country is just up the road.


----------



## Shadow (31 Dec 2021)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I am continuing my journey......
> Just not in a southerly direction


Might you elucidate just a teeny weeny bit sometime after tomorrow? (Merely to keep a few of your loyal readers out of suspenders suspense!).



I have been thinking about this for a wee while:
I would like to nominate a CC'er for going way above and beyond the call in assisting our nomadic correspondent in an hour of need. It would be a virtual medal, maybe a green star, for humanitarian endeavour to a (almost total) stranger. That person would be Willie, aka @cwskas, for his wondrous hospitality back in Austin. I salute you, sir. 🌟☘


----------



## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Shadow said:


> Might you elucidate just a teeny weeny bit sometime after tomorrow? (Merely to keep a few of your loyal readers out of suspenders suspense!).


I thought I already did 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021





HobbesOnTour said:


> Instead, I'm going to ask the Colombians to extend my visa (straightforward, I believe) and pass another couple of months here then head back to Europe, probably Spain.



Of course, that was pre fifth wave Covid. 
That plan still stands but my travels in Spain will be different and I don't think I'll be keeping a Travelogue. 



Shadow said:


> I have been thinking about this for a wee while:
> I would like to nominate a CC'er for going way above and beyond the call in assisting our nomadic correspondent in an hour of need. It would be a virtual medal, maybe a green star, for humanitarian endeavour to a (almost total) stranger. That person would be Willie, aka @cwskas, for his wondrous hospitality back in Austin. I salute you, sir. 🌟☘


I'm fully in agreement but I have a sneaking suspicion that Willie doesn't see it as above and beyond anything - just simple, Texan hospitality. 
He's probably the most prolific contributor to this chat thread too, another thing I am grateful to him for.

Not to undermine your intentions but the kind folk back in Aporo really kept the show on the road in the early days of the Pandemic. 


Oh, I nearly forgot.....
The artists from Pasto....
Alicia Viter Valencia
Jano Buscallo
Carolina Zambrano
Jairo Buesaquillo
Juan Carlos Jurado
Andrés Latorre Ruano
Happy Googling!


----------



## Pat "5mph" (31 Dec 2021)

Happy New Year 2022 @HobbesOnTour!
May the road ahead be kind on you, may you always find a coffee vendor, may you never get the 'Rona


----------



## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Happy New Year 2022 @HobbesOnTour!
> May the road ahead be kind on you, may you always find a coffee vendor, may you never get the 'Rona


Thanks Pat😊
Clearly you've been absorbing my thoughts on coffee
The road ahead leads me back to coffee country so I won't be complaining
Avoiding Rabies is up there with the 'Rona at the moment.

Hoping you're having a Hoolie for Hogmanay and that 2021 gets kicked far away into touch if for no other reason it means your knee is back in form.


----------



## cwskas (1 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Silvia. It was another one of those places where I instantly felt comfortable despite being a clear outsider. It's a significant town, famous for a weekly market and traditional clothing still worn by the locals. A vivid blue, woolen cloak is the garment of choice and men wear a skirt to match!


Very rich color, seems almost purple.

And the murals are fantastic! I especially like this one which looks like it is tile instead of paint.

Nice picture with 2 ‘chicken buses‘ in the same shot!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> And the murals are fantastic! I especially like this one which looks like it is tile instead of paint.


The link shows a chicken bus? 
I think all the photos from Silvia are on brick/plaster. 



cwskas said:


> Nice picture with 2 ‘chicken buses‘ in the same shot!


Thanks! I've been trying since Guatemala to get one with Roccado and a chicken bus. Two buses is progress!


----------



## cwskas (2 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> I especially like this one which looks like it is tile instead of paint.


Oops, here is the one I meant to reference. 






It looks almost like a mosaic to me.


----------



## cwskas (2 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Art along the way
> 
> I thought today was a remarkable day for the art so please indulge me as I try to document it here......



Excellent!


----------



## cwskas (2 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I tracked down the same guy from earlier, explained the situation and was told to take a seat. A quarter of an hour later he was back, yes, they had the vaccine! Another quarter of an hour I was two thirds of the way through my rabies treatment and back on the street. This time there was no charge.


Patience. & persistence pays off again!


HobbesOnTour said:


> with more than 30km to go I was just a cork bobbing along in a surging río of traffic


Very descriptive!


HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm going to try to track down a homestay / Workaway place where I'll get a place to stay in return for labour. A coffee farm sounds idyllic😊


That would be nice. Maybe you could get one of those jobs shoveling gravel from pothole to pothole.


----------



## Scoosh (2 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A very long sculpted mural (my verbal creation). Clearly coffee and the arrival of a train has had significant impact here. I think the detail, work and effort speak volumes and the focus on history is refreshing


Stunning work yet again ! 
I wonder if there are state/council employ artists who do all these, as the "I  [town name]" signs are all very, well similar, standards seem very high and do the folk in places like Mondomo... _"a few houses scattered along a busy road "_... really have someone with the necessary art skills ? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> The Plaza in Santander de Quilichao ...


Oh No  – they missed a golden opportunity ! How cool would it have been to have the 3 sides showing the same inside figure, from the 3 different perspectives ?  

That second picture
View attachment 624634
... looks Impressionist to me ... [but I know amazingly little about art ! ]


HobbesOnTour said:


> There is always an interesting tree!


Now that's a well secured/rooted/anchored tree  Bring on the tornados – it's going nowhere !


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> Oops, here is the one I meant to reference.
> 
> View attachment 624676
> 
> It looks almost like a mosaic to me.


I thought that may be the one.....
It's actually painted on brick but there is a definite mosaic effect to it.

These murals are instantly noticable when I do a lap of the Plaza but it's only when I stop and give them a bit of time does it become clear just how much work, effort and thought has gone into them.


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> I wonder if there are state/council employ artists who do all these, as the "I  [town name]" signs are all very, well similar, standards seem very high and do the folk in places like Mondomo... _"a few houses scattered along a busy road "_... really have someone with the necessary art skills ?


I have no idea. I have noticed the same names on some paintings in different towns back aways. The sculpted murals are a relatively new phenomenon. 
A bit like me not knowing one tree from another I just enjoy what I see and ask no questions😊




Scoosh said:


> Oh No  – they missed a golden opportunity ! How cool would it have been to have the 3 sides showing the same inside figure, from the 3 different perspectives ?


I'm sorry I can't follow your train of thought here. 



Scoosh said:


> Now that's a well secured tree  Bring on the tornados – it's going nowhere !


Tornadoes aren't the problem...... Earthquakes, floods and landslides are!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

Since no-one has commented on Oso I want to highlight what I thought was a fabulous bit of art back at the restaurant.
Brutally difficult to photo without being 5 meters tall and not helped by a bright sun these are the best that I can do.











Logistically I think it's amazing.

Edit:
I just found this one online.....


----------



## Pat "5mph" (2 Jan 2022)

@HobbesOnTour are you managing to post the pictures with the new software?
I read you mentioned having issues, all good now?


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> @HobbesOnTour are you managing to post the pictures with the new software?
> I read you mentioned having issues, all good now?


Ah, I just need to get used to the new format.
Previously the pictures were in a column and I could see them all in one look, now the thumbnails are larger but run across the page meaning I can only see three at a time. This makes it more difficult to select in the right order.

Also, when there's a problem uploading (say due to poor wifi cutting out) it's not immediately clear that there's a problem. The "old" system clearly showed the file name crossed out. I'm used to hitting "upload", putting the phone down and coming back in a while to see what was uploaded and what wasn't. 

It works, I just need to get used to it. 😊


----------



## Pat "5mph" (2 Jan 2022)

Clear your cookies just in case: it might help, Shaun says so all the time when we have forum issues


----------



## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Clear your cookies just in case: it might help, Shaun says so all the time when we have forum issues


That was the first thing I did


----------



## Scoosh (2 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> Oh No  – they missed a golden opportunity ! How cool would it have been to have the 3 sides showing the same inside figure, from the 3 different perspectives ?





HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm sorry I can't follow your train of thought here.


Ah – to explain...
The first picture shows a lady viewed from her right side.
Walking round the tower to the left, the second and third could have shown her from her back and from her left side, as if she were actually sitting _inside the tower _and one is viewing through windows. 
Yes ???


----------



## Scoosh (4 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> This is a regular house's crib!


Complete with water feature, I believe ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> and the toilet was in a old UK phonebox.


I hope old enough not to have windows all round ... 



HobbesOnTour said:


> - made from three cassettes! She proudly explained to me what they were, "for music" she added helpfully making me feel very, very old!


_au contraire _– cassettes are back in for the trendy bands these days ! Yeah, I've no idea why either - there's a reason cd's took over...


----------



## cwskas (5 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I complimented her on the theme, told her I loved the menu and got very excited when the napkin holder arrived on the table - made from three cassettes! She proudly explained to me what they were, "for music" she added helpfully making me feel very, very old!





HobbesOnTour said:


> I pulled up a stranger in a strange town and in minutes I'm chatting and laughing and joking with the locals. Touring head locked on!





HobbesOnTour said:


> Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great!





HobbesOnTour said:


> I had no idea where I was going to sleep but I knew I was home. Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great!





HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm back on the road and it feels great!


I really enjoyed these last few posts, your descriptions brought me right in.


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## Shadow (5 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *Street art in Yumbo. There was something very bright and vivid that stopped me in my tracks and mafe me take out the camera for the first time.*


This mural stopped me in my tracks too.  Fantastic colours and combos. I wonder if it feel smore vibrant because it was finished only 3 months ago and so has not had time to fade from weathering.
Also like the porthole window being used for the chameleon's eye.



HobbesOnTour said:


> these days recieves about three million pilgrims annually.





HobbesOnTour said:


> As it turned out that queue at the Basilica was for a painting of Christ, reputed to have miracle granting qualities. Thanks Wikipedia!


I thought you knew this ahead of time, which is why you specifically visited Buga, seeing you have a penchant for pilgrimage towns!
When you eventually arrive in España, you could take detour to Lourdes, where your fondness for religious tat will be overwhelmed!


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2022)

Shadow said:


> I wonder if it feel smore vibrant because it was finished only 3 months ago and so has not had time to fade from weathering.


You're just showing off now 


Shadow said:


> Also like the porthole window being used for the chameleon's eye


They do this kind of thing all the time. Walls are imperfect surfaces and electrical boxes etc. are often camouflaged


Shadow said:


> I thought you knew this ahead of time, which is why you specifically visited Buga


Not a clue! I just knew it was pretty.


Shadow said:


> you could take detour to Lourdes,


Hell no!!


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## Spartak (7 Jan 2022)

@HobbesOnTour .... Just found your travelogue, bookmarked the page. 

Your tour looks fab.... 👍


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## CharlesF (7 Jan 2022)

Great photos, as usual! Not at all important,I would love to see the old and new front brakes! Just to show how much travelling the bike as done. In fact we do need more close-up bike photos


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jan 2022)

Spartak said:


> @HobbesOnTour .... Just found your travelogue, bookmarked the page.
> 
> Your tour looks fab.... 👍


Well, I'm quite enjoying it😊

Welcome aboard and don't be shy if you've any questions or comments


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jan 2022)

CharlesF said:


> Great photos, as usual! Not at all important,I would love to see the old and new front brakes! Just to show how much travelling the bike as done. In fact we do need more close-up bike photos


You didn't think of asking when I had some time off and WiFi?

Give me a day or two and I'll post up some pics. You won't be seeing much! 

Roccado's about 25 years young but I bought new brakes a couple of years before I left so that I could take the old ones apart and learn how the darn things work😊 The replaced brakes aren't actually that old.

The weld is all but invisible. 

I can show you my nail polish topups though! 😊


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## Scoosh (8 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> There's little to this little town outside of the Plaza - if all I do is look. But if I feel? I feel comfortable, welcome.


Interesting observation and great to be so relaxed – means you can get the very best out of each place. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> The "Welcome to San Pedro" sign proudly (if a tad optimistically) declares "Where dreams are born".


... though, hopefully not just dreams of "getting out of here' ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> A process that seemed incredibly complicated and stressful, potentially dangerous and just generally a PITA a couple of weeks ago in a tiny, dingy room in Rosas had come to an end as I stepped out into bright sunshine in another small town.
> I'm not advocating getting bitten by a dog when you go away but I got to see parts of Colombia that tourists don't often get to see. And I quite enjoyed it.


You appear to have developed an extremely useful skill of turning adversity into triumph !   


HobbesOnTour said:


> Even with a dogbite and potential rabies infection Colombia still has me feeling comfortable.
> I went for a coffee and just sat thinking about what a lucky fecker I am.


... and gratitude is a wonderful thing.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> Interesting observation and great to be so relaxed – means you can get the very best out of each place.


These days I think that if I was anymore laid back I'd fall over in a heap😊




Scoosh said:


> ... and gratitude is a wonderful thing.


I was very fortunate once to meet a woman who gave me a simple bit of advice; sit down at the end of the day and make a list of all that happened that I'm grateful for. 

It took me a while to give it a shot but it has turned out to be excellent advice. It's now a well established habit and I feel so much better for it.


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## IaninSheffield (9 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> What a camping spot!!!


Absolutely breathtaking!


HobbesOnTour said:


> I went back down to pick up the bike and laboured up. It was really, really tough.


Wonder if that's the etymological origin of 'breathtaking'? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> They do paragliding from up here!


In the photo, I first wondered why you set up such a long pole, then why you were only drying a single sock.
Then I read on.


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## Scoosh (9 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> La Paila had an original sign


Cheapskates !! . ... but it's mobile ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> When I told him where I was going after Ríosucio - an adventurous road shall we say - my choice today didn't seem quite so mad.


It's all relative ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Then two, but soon to be five, ten year olds on bikes came over ...


Building very strong legs already ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> That GCN Colombian backpacking video that I referenced in the Chat thread


I watched that t'other day – and thought of how much they were missing by dashing through and being time-constrained !
Your way of being totally immersed in the country and culture is much more to my liking. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> What a camping spot!!! (Taken the next morning)


 (as in 'incredible, amazing, on top of this world !) – just  ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> ... but an evening like this is why I carry what I do. I could camp. I could feed myself. I could make coffee and share it. I could be comfortable. I could relax.


Now _that_ is contentment ... within and without. Zen, almost


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## IaninSheffield (10 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The light sputtered, waxing and waning as if in a battle with shyness to push through the cloud then became more confident, strode cockily through the cloud and spread its warmth.
> The vivid green peaks leaked downwards, the sun bringing life, colour and warmth to the valley, eventually to the valley floor itself


You sir are no mere wordsmith. Way beyond literary journeyman.
'Gran maestro de palabras' perhaps?


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2022)

IaninSheffield said:


> You sir are no mere wordsmith. Way beyond literary journeyman.
> 'Gran maestro de palabras' perhaps?


Thanks Ian😊
That's fleshed out from my notes that morning. It was a pretty inspiring location.
Two pots of coffee helped too!


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> I watched that t'other day – and thought of how much they were missing by dashing through and being time-constrained !
> Your way of being totally immersed in the country and culture is much more to my liking.


That struck me too - going across the globe to spend three days. With the best will in the world that's no time at all to get a sense for a place. But it's a cycling channel and they're cyclists - the jury is still out on whether I'm one - and they went to cycle.

The fact is that those types of trips are going to become rarer and rarer at least until long distance travel becomes more eco friendly.

A number of people on here have commented on a renewed sense of exploration of their local areas in a Covid affected world. 
Perhaps that's the future?

Is an exotic or "famous" location in the same category as the latest gadget or component to be acquired and checked off a wishlist? Or can we enjoy our cycling without the latest fashion, be that gadget or location?

Of course, that's very easy for me to say giving my extremely privileged location. 😊

Having said that, I'm not quite immersed in the culture unfortunately. I avoid the bars more for Covid precautions than anything else and my interactions are carefully chosen. If there's a market I visit, for example, it's when it's quiet. 
But I'm doing my best! A girl told me the other day that I had to go to Bogotá - how could I have a sense of a country without visiting its Capital? She has a point but I'm loving my small town experiences. 


Scoosh said:


> Now _that_ is contentment ... within and without. Zen, almost


Regulars here are probably sick to death of me commenting on threads about the importance of getting out and giving touring a try before investing heavily in a bike and all the gear. I think it's extremely important to know what you like to do - then equip yourself for that. 
The bike wandering I enjoy now is a far, far cry from what I thought I'd enjoy when I first started cycling. And in places unimaginable back then.

There's other things too, though. 
Would I have been so comfortable leaving a bike that cost two, three or four grand as I walked up to see if the place was open? And then be exposed, alone, on top of a Colombian ridge at night? I'd probably have opted for the hotel that Google told me was in San José. (It was incredibly steep and rough path up - not something I'd tackle in hope. Once I saw where I'd be camping it didn't seem quite so tough!)

So yes, almost Zen - but like a duck gracefully gliding across a lake a hell of a lot of work practice went on under the surface to find out what I really enjoy and then to set myself up for it. After that it's all down to me.


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## netman (10 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *One of my better decisions*


So stunning... were you not tempted to stay a while longer maybe? I think I might have still been there a month later!


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Jan 2022)

netman said:


> So stunning... were you not tempted to stay a while longer maybe? I think I might have still been there a month later!


You know, I never even thought about it! 

I did dally over my breakfast and decided to make the day shorter but the thought of staying another night didn't cross my mind.

Thinking about it now there would have been a trail of people up and down all day meaning I'd be pretty much stuck there. I'd have no doubt the guy in charge could be trusted but people and their dogs? Not so sure. 

Sometimes it's better to have a beautiful time together and part before the flaws and irritations come to the surface😊

Besides, it was the perfect day for being on that road.


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## cwskas (11 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Even with a dogbite and potential rabies infection Colombia still has me feeling comfortable.
> I went for a coffee and just sat thinking about what a lucky fecker I am.





HobbesOnTour said:


> It may not come across in tbe text but I was enjoying myself immensely.


It came across quite clearly to me!


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## cwskas (11 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm thoroughly enjoying these days on the (relative) flat, the easy cycling, the regular towns and villages. Why? I'm not sure. There's an easyness, a comfort to it. No pressure. That'll change tomorrow when I start climbing again! But for now it's just about perfect.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Back on the pleasant road I turned off to San Francisco. I nearly didn't as it looked small but I doubled back and discovered a very long, well spread out village where just about everyone greeted me. Very pleasant.


Oooh! I like the road into/out of San Francisco. Very pretty & peaceful looking.


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## cwskas (11 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> With height came the views. With the views came the loon face. . . . There are few things more satisfying than cycling up and looking down on clouds snagging on mountains. I love it!





HobbesOnTour said:


> I found myself asking myself just why these towns speak to me so much as I laboured up and away. Is it the town itself or my own state of mind? Probably somewhere in the middle.





HobbesOnTour said:


> I enjoyed the last few days with the easy cycling and the town visits but this was a different kind of touring. Soaked and dripping I was literally immersed in the environment.





HobbesOnTour said:


> I don't travel light and I sweat (and frequently swear) climbing but an evening like this is why I carry what I do. I could camp. I could feed myself. I could make coffee and share it. I could be comfortable. I could relax.


Excellent narrative in these last few posts. Very descriptive and fine pictures.


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## cwskas (11 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> This part of the trip is a gift to myself. I chose this area, I chose this route. It's not distance, nor meters nor destination that count but enjoyment. How cool is it that on the other side of the world, in a huge country that I don't really know I can pick an area and head for it and not be disappointed. It's both comfortably familiar yet incredibly exotic. This is my choice, for me, and I'm loving it!





HobbesOnTour said:


> It's a bit strange. I'm heading in the opposite direction that I wanted to go, I'm coming to the end of this Big, Big Trip yet the dark cloud that I've been expecting to descend any day now is nowhere on the horizon.


Many miles, many experiences, many pictures . . . I think this trip you have taken us on will stick with many of us for a long time.


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## Scoosh (12 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I think this one might illustrate the steep streets (and the epic views)


Yes. It does. 

Perfectly.  


HobbesOnTour said:


> I just wasn't feeling it this morning.
> 
> 
> HobbesOnTour said:
> ...


It requires a lot of mental strength to cycle/sail/walk/whatever solo for so-o-o long and still be enjoying it. You've obviously found out how _you_ need to get yourself in the right frame of mind to go on and still enjoy it. 
It only comes with experience and practice. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> ...because everyone stared at me from tiny kids to old folks but they were quick to smile and wave.


Do you (the penguin*) usually initiate the "smile and wave  " or do the locals ? It's always a great ice-breaker/peace-maker either way – as is saying "Hi" to children. 

* 'Madagascar' film reference there... 


HobbesOnTour said:


> ... I felt privileged to get to be a part of it for a little while. And it is right to say "a part of it". People spoke to me, included me. Were interested in me.


Mutual respect and interest is a wonderful thing – sadly more usually found in less "sophisticated"/rural places. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> A surprise restaurant ..... That was my cue to move on.


Your own special show – how do you manage these things ? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> It's very nice to be able to help, to give something back to this wonderful country.


That's the Traveller, not the Tourist, speaking. 

Still loving your Reports. 
Thank you so much for them all.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> Do you (the penguin*) usually initiate the "smile and wave  " or do the locals ? It's always a great ice-breaker/peace-maker either way – as is saying "Hi" to children.


I invariably arrive with a big smile on my face. I think that helps
(Never seen Madagascar😊)


Scoosh said:


> Mutual respect and interest is a wonderful thing – sadly more usually found in less "sophisticated"/rural places.


I think it's quite simple; in a small place everyone local knows I'm a stranger. The usual response is welcoming but there have been places where that was absent. 



Scoosh said:


> Your own special show – how do you manage these things ?


I keep my eyes open

This bike touring lark it's really not rocket science, you know


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## cwskas (13 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> the random "white trees" scattered around. I can't explain it but I love 'em


Have you identified the name of these trees. I am not sure I have gotten a very good view of them yet. They seem to always be hiding among many other trees.


HobbesOnTour said:


> now the air was filled with different scents drifting in the wind. And birds. Lots of chattering and singing birds.


Singing cascades, scents, birds . . . sounds fantastic!


HobbesOnTour said:


> A bird house for pigeons. An appalling idea that I loved for some strange reason


I bet you did not sit under this tree to write up your notes?


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## cwskas (13 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I keep my eyes open
> 
> This bike touring lark it's really not rocket science, you know


That will be on the test at the end of the course!


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> Have you identified the name of these trees. I am not sure I have gotten a very good view of them yet. They seem to always be hiding among many other trees.


I haven't. And the thing is I have no urge to find out. 😊

They are exceedingly difficult to capture in a photo precisely because they are hiding amongst all the other trees - that's their very attraction for me. There's something wonderfully random and defiant about them (and the yellow ones previously). 

The other thing is that they're really only strongly contrasting at distance - up close they're not nearly so impressive nor prominent.

I'll try and keep an eye out for a decent shot.



cwskas said:


> That will be on the test at the end of the course!



Oooh! A test!! Now there's an idea!!

Q1 What should a touring cyclist do on encountering a drain?
A. Dismount and walk around it 
B. Ride happily into it
C. Listen to that internal voice telling you to stay in a magical place, turn around and postpone the decision for a day

Q2. Those horses that you can see are they
A. Nicaraguan horses in Honduras
B. Honduran horses in Nicaragua
C. Latino horses

Q3. When one gets lost and inadvertently dors a big loop arriving back where they started from should one
A. Sulk in room
B. Go and get a coffee from pretty barista
C. Never admit that it happened

Any more suggestions?
These are important topics


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## cwskas (15 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Oooh! A test!! Now there's an idea!!
> 
> Q1 What should a touring cyclist do on encountering a drain?
> A. Dismount and walk around it
> ...



Q1. A. Dismount and walk around it

Q2. C. Latino horses <<< sounds like it will cover either of the other possibilities 

Q3. B. Go and get a coffee from pretty barista <<< sounds like it is a good choice for many questions!


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## cwskas (15 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> it _was_ pretty, very pretty at times - the experience wasn't pretty.


It sounds like quite the adventure.



HobbesOnTour said:


> was disappointed because the vegetation all around seemed to become even more dense and interesting but I had no time to stop and appreciate it. I was aware of a real sense of loss - that I'd expended all this effort and was now going as fast as I could through the rewards and not really able to even look at it properly.


Too bad you couldn't enjoy it properly. I suppose tomorrow you could ride back up 20 km and then back down 20km in the daylight!
. . . and be rewarded with another night "in touristy hell!!."



HobbesOnTour said:


> I have to hand it to the Colombians - when they talk of equality through road building they really mean it! Ríosucio and Jardín have the same length of surfaced road!






HobbesOnTour said:


> I flew! I had one objective, and only one - coffee!



. . . from a pretty barista?


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> Too bad you couldn't enjoy it properly. I suppose tomorrow you could ride back up 20 km and then back down 20km in the daylight!
> . . . and be rewarded with another night "in touristy hell!!."


Oh Willy! Don't be a silly billy!

I think you may have forgotten a couple of things......
1. I must be the laziest energy conserving bike tourist in the worlds...... And 
2. I'm in Colombia. Colombia never disappoints! Around the next bend, over the next hill there's always something to amaze me


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> . . . from a pretty barista


Colombia is renowned for its pretty ladies. And I see evidence for that renown every single day......
But there's a problem. Most of them don't smile 
There's very little prettier than a smile.

And no. If I'd ordered a café con leche she could have curdled the milk!


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> Q1. A. Dismount and walk around it
> 
> Q2. C. Latino horses <<< sounds like it will cover either of the other possibilities
> 
> Q3. B. Go and get a coffee from pretty barista <<< sounds like it is a good choice for many questions!


Q1 ❌
Stay (in Morelia) or ride happily into it. 
Riding happily into it lets us see a repair in action in a little backstreet shop and later introduces us to great service! 

Q2 ❌
Remember the horse festival?😉

Q3 ✅


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## cwskas (16 Jan 2022)

Oh no! I must be the worst cycle tourist blog reader in the world! I only got 1 of 3 correct!


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## cwskas (16 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I talked this lot into posing for me


How kind of them! Those caterpillars or grasshoppers and beautiful!


HobbesOnTour said:


> It was a lovely day for cycling but I wasn't even thinking about that. In fact, I wasn't thinking much at all. There was something so calm, so comfy that I left my head empty and just felt.





HobbesOnTour said:


> Special places should be treated specially. I took another day.


Sounds reasonable to me/



HobbesOnTour said:


> I went back to the Plaza simply because it feels so comfortable and had more coffee.


Charging your internal batteries, I suppose.



HobbesOnTour said:


> When am I ever going to be back here again? What's my rush?





HobbesOnTour said:


> I'd love to say that I did loads, discovered more walks or hikes. But I didn't.
> I soaked. I absorbed. I wandered from coffee place to coffee place. I read. I wrote. What's really strange, to me anyway, is despite all the coffee I'm imbibing I'm incredibly relaxed! Magic coffee perhaps?


Magic coffee! Yeah, that's the ticket! Maybe while you are there, you can organize their next advertising campaign.


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## CharlesF (16 Jan 2022)

The last two posts about Jardin are magic, and extra special photos.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> Oh no! I must be the worst cycle tourist blog reader in the world! I only got 1 of 3 correct!


Do I know the trees that I like?
Can I tell one bird from another? 
I don't even know what road I'm on half the time......
It's not about the knowing....... It's about the feeling

And at least you gave it a shot!


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## Scoosh (18 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> _I talked this lot into posing for me_


Great observation to have seen them ... but I suppose they do stand out somewhat ! 

Amazing the difference one feels when, after rain and road 'stress' ... the sun comes out, warmth returns ... and suddenly the world looks a much more benign place – not out to 'get' you but to show itself to you and let you enjoy it. 


HobbesOnTour said:


> This is a place with no urgency. At all.


 this !
One of most under-rated things – time. Time to explore, time to relax, time (as you might say) to _be._


HobbesOnTour said:


> Christ the King! It's quite small actually.


One of those tress in front of the statue (immediately right of the flags) almost looks to have the same shape as the statue – with a head and arms outstretched ! 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Coffee country


... with a well-earned view  !


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## Shadow (18 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> *Lots and lots and lots of colour*


 
quote from gogglemaps (_my italics obvs_):

Jardín is an Andean town in northwest Colombia, _known for its brightly painted houses (1)_, _colorful floral displays_ and _milk candies (2)_. The main plaza, El Libertador Park, features rose gardens, a central fountain and the twin-towered, _neo-Gothic Basilica_ (3) of the Immaculate Conception, with views from its bell tower. The nearby Clara Rojas Peláez House Museum offers art, antiques and a library in a colonial building.

1 - found and noticed; what a wonderful tourist you are!
2 - not found presumably; normal Hobbesian tourist!
3 - I thought we had sorted the church/basilica thing!

Loved your Dr Doolittle skills getting the butterflies and 'hoppers in formation.


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jan 2022)

Shadow said:


> 1 - found and noticed; what a wonderful tourist you are!
> 2 - not found presumably; normal Hobbesian tourist!
> 3 - I thought we had sorted the church/basilica thing!


1. I didn't realise I was being graded...... And against feckin' Google!!! Google maps is not to be trusted! (Coloured houses are kind of hard to miss)

2. Oh they're found alright! The Latin world has something that goes far beyond a sweet tooth. I can't eat them - they're far, far too sweet for me and that's saying something! Just about every place has their own sweet thing.

3. A church is a church in my world😊.


And the museum was closed for restoration!


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## cwskas (20 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> looking at a photo is only a tiny proportion of the experience. The smells, the sounds, the wind moving through the leaves are the real experience


I think that is why it takes me so long to catch up on posts when I get behind. I can at least imagine.



HobbesOnTour said:


> If I ever get bored of these views it's time to put me out of my misery. The fact that all the work to get up here was done a few days ago certainly helps


I dont think that will happen, you are far too observant and inquisitive.



HobbesOnTour said:


> This town has an energy and I was plugged in!


Soaking up as much as you can . . . 



HobbesOnTour said:


> *Aerial view of an aerial town*


That picture of the town is one of my favorite so far. The longer distance views are so beautiful, but this one really shows some of the character of the town . . . elongated in between ridges. Really interesting.


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

cwskas said:


> I think that is why it takes me so long to catch up on posts when I get behind. I can at least imagine.


Reading slow is the ultimate way to read in my world, especially with an accomplished writer.

I remember hearing an Irish writer reading an excerpt from his book (a book I'd tried and failed to get into) and not understanding why the experience was so much better.
I dug out my copy and tried again, at a much slower pace. All of a sudden the rhythm, the sounds and the story combined.....
A very educational experience.

Take as long as you like!


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

@CharlesF 
You wanted brake photos.....


The old brakes. The top one is the damaged one. Not a great man for terminology you can see how the silver bar is bent and won't seat properly meaning the brake is operating with hardly any tension









The replacement. You can see where the rack is attached to the brake. I'm thinking constant rattling loosened the attachment to the brake, the brake become loose and that little "tension bar" popped out of its hole. Most likely tightening everything up on the Trampoline I messed up and caused the bend in the "tension bar". 





And the other side....







The rubber frame protectors were "lost" by the "mechanic" in Cartagena. A combination of huge quantities of sweat, shorts that hit the cables when I stop and no protectors are causing this.....







And this





Anything else?


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Just a thought in relation to Willie's post above.....

I'd hope that anyone reading the travelogue who's way behind won't be shy about posting a question or comment from any stage. Go slow and try to feel - that's what I'm trying to do.
Using the quote function would be handy though

With thanks to @IaninSheffield 


> Highlight the text you want to quote, click +Quote in the bottom right of the post, repeat for other texts you want to quote.
> Navigate to the box where you want to make the quotes, choose Insert Quotes, and finally Quote Message from the pop up.


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## CharlesF (20 Jan 2022)

Thanks for brake photos, helped me imagine how many Km’s they covered and the extreme terrain; just makes your trip a bit more “real” seeing wear and tear.

By the by, why _did _you ditch the trailer? It’s been a recurring thought and then you mentioned it in your post.


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## CharlesF (20 Jan 2022)

Those last 3 posts, extreme travelling, what a trip! The photos conveyed the terrain you were covering - congratulations!

Loved the R4, one of the best cars ever. I would take one over a super car any day.


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

CharlesF said:


> Thanks for brake photos, helped me imagine how many Km’s they covered and the extreme terrain; just makes your trip a bit more “real” seeing wear and tear.
> 
> By the by, why _did _you ditch the trailer? It’s been a recurring thought and then you mentioned it in your post.


The wear and tear on the brakes is more accurately described as user error

I thought I mentioned the trailer before, but anyway .....

When I set off from CDMX I had no idea how far I'd get. There was a risk of having to hightail it out of states or regions that might be going into lockdown and necessitating using public transport. The trailer could be a hindrance for that.

I also didn't expect to be taking too many backroads. For safety and security I thought that bigger roads would be better so less need for the trailer.

If I was to continue south I imagined using a plane to skip over parts (Central America) and the trailer would be a costly extra to have. 

When I set off there was definitely a feeling of trepidation. I could have been back in CDMX in a matter of weeks.
As we now know things weren't nearly so bad as I feared. 
There's a book title in there "The Bike Tour: Not nearly as scary as we might think!"


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

CharlesF said:


> Those last 3 posts, extreme travelling, what a trip!


Thanks, Charles, but let's be honest here
That was one of the dumbest things I've ever done and that's from quite a large and deep pool of dumb things

I am impressed with myself though for not panicking and being able to work through it and come out the other side.


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## CharlesF (21 Jan 2022)

What a day - Day 856 - that was. Thank goodness for the kindness of strangers. Well done for getting to the other side.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2022)

CharlesF said:


> What a day - Day 856 - that was. Thank goodness for the kindness of strangers. Well done for getting to the other side.


Sorry Charles but I have to ask ....

You "liked" the post with a "sad" emoji.... Can I ask why?
I don't class it as a sad day at all. The two Cowboys dominate all the negativity of the experience so in my book it's a fantastic day.

A full accounting of the cost will be coming up in a few days though


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## IaninSheffield (21 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Whoever sang "Mommas don't let your sons grow up to be Cowboys" has obviously never been to Colombia


I suspect that somewhere out there, iohan is looking down, delighted at your resilience on this adventure within an adventure. Personally, I'm also delighted that I'm experiencing it from a comfortable, dry, ant- and tic-free sofa, from which a few snake- and (mostly) spider-free strides will take me to a tap from which I can draw fresh water and turn it into a cup of coffee in mere moments.
But then, nor do I have the inspirational, rejuvenative sights, sounds and smells from which a true adventurer might continually draw heart.

As you trudged back and forth, back and forth with panniers, bags and bike, I wonder how often the demon on one shoulder took delight in reminding you of Remi's set up.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2022)

IaninSheffield said:


> As you trudged back and forth, back and forth with panniers, bags and bike, I wonder how often the demon on one shoulder took delight in reminding you of Remi's set up




Very little, actually

Of course the thought crossed my mind but it didn't get bogged down or remain to taunt me. With that setup I'd have been rightly up the creek as night fell.

I also wasn't too hard on myself for not turning around when I ran out of road.

For someone who for years had a nasty, shrill little fecker mouthing off into my ear it's a pleasant change. 

You asked a long time ago now about changes on the trip.....
This is one of them. Those internal demons have shut up. They say their piece and then I hear no more.


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## CharlesF (21 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Sorry Charles but I have to ask ....
> 
> You "liked" the post with a "sad" emoji.... Can I ask why?
> I don't class it as a sad day at all. The two Cowboys dominate all the negativity of the experience so in my book it's a fantastic day.
> ...


Fat Finger Syndrome, says it all!

Should have been “Loved It”. I will change it.


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## Scoosh (21 Jan 2022)

Meanwhile, back in Day 853... 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Stair art!


That is brilliant ! I wonder how long it takes the artist to do ? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> Disappointed that they didn't have an "Andes" sign .... - the sign!! I pulled up and two guys sitting in front of it darted out of the way to let me take my photo.


Evidence requested !


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## Scoosh (21 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> But the view!!! The road and river are what I have to reach


. They are a l-o-o-ong way down there – but _what_ a view; there are probably only a handful of people alive who have seen that same view ! 
... there are only a few brave/daft /lost enough ... 

What an incredible day or three ! 
CHAPEAU SIR !


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> Evidence requested !


Evidence posted......
On Feckbook & Strava


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## chriswoody (21 Jan 2022)

Blimey Hobbes, those last few entries and those dirt trails, looks like we may make a proper adventure cyclist out of you yet! *



HobbesOnTour said:


> This was the lowest moment of the past couple of days. Already a bit out of sorts from the cool reception at the house (a couple of hours ago but only a couple of hundred meters away) this was like the last straw. Up to this point I'd been calm, stoic and not letting my emotions run away with me. Now I could feel them gathering strength and preparing to break out. That wasn't what I wanted. There was no place to stop and lean the bike so I picked a rock in the field and told myself to stay calm until there. I heaved and dragged and slipped to the rock and had a smoke and a chat with myself.


I could really empathise with this, I've been in that place myself more than once, though that euphoric feeling when you emerge the other side and look back with a good coffee in your hand, has kept me returning for more unplanned adventures.

The photos and writing from Columbia have really been quite inspiring, I wish I could drop everything and fly out to experience those trails and that amazing country myself, you've really opened up my eyes to a stunning part of the world.

*I hope you realise I had my tongue planted firmly in my cheek when I typed that!


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2022)

chriswoody said:


> Blimey Hobbes, those last few entries and those dirt trails, looks like we may make a proper adventure cyclist out of you yet! *



Someday I'll get there! This has been a pretty tame couple of years after all.
We never know what will happen in the next few days...... 


chriswoody said:


> The photos and writing from Columbia have really been quite inspiring


Thank you.
Genuinely, that's the greatest compliment I can get


chriswoody said:


> I wish I could drop everything and fly out to experience those trails and that amazing country myself, you've really opened up my eyes to a stunning part of the world.


It's always good to have something to aim for. This used to be the Big, Big Dream
A bike packing rig would be pretty perfect though.
I hope this Colombia obsession of yours doesn't mean I'll have to avoid northern Germany for ever more because Frau Woody wants to throttle me!


chriswoody said:


> *I hope you realise I had my tongue planted firmly in my cheek when I typed that!


Don't worry


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Jan 2022)

Scoosh said:


> Evidence requested !


Here you go


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## cwskas (24 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> But the view!!! The road and river are what I have to reach





HobbesOnTour said:


> Jungle bikes!


What a beautiful, inspiring view . . . And what a massive effort!

As @CharlesF said, "The photos conveyed the terrain" and your "extreme travelling".


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## cwskas (24 Jan 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Being right handed I walked on the left of the bike on the edge of a stiff drop. Slow and slippy. Progress was very, very slow. The walking over and back had made the path slippier for the most awkward load. Lesson learned.
> 
> The next stage the bike went first but the same pattern was followed. It felt like progress was faster because I was always moving but it was hard work. Fully loaded downhill, slipping and sliding back up to repeat the process. I was not a good advertisement for the joys of bike touring!


What a descriptive account of the process.



HobbesOnTour said:


> This was where a hummingbird came over to check out the Feckin' eejit


I choose to think it was there to encourage you on your efforts!



HobbesOnTour said:


> It wasn't all doom, gloom, mud and blood. There was some incredible, wild beauty around me. I developed my "system" so that when every stage was completed I'd sit and rest. . . . On one such occasion, surrounded by what can only be described as jungle I was treated to a wonderful choir of birdsong. I know I've mentioned birds chattering and twittering as I go past but this felt different. This was singing. A chorus. Joyful and happy all the more precious because the source was invisible and seemed to be spread over a wide area. I couldn't help but feel that this was for me.


More encouragement!



HobbesOnTour said:


> Oh how my heart leapt for joy when I saw this fine example of road engineering


 It is all a matter of perspective!



HobbesOnTour said:


> Osmand was right about something! This would lead me down to the main road. I'd been travelling 6.5 hours to get here, a distance of less than 4km.


But that is probably the fastest anyone has done that segment on a loaded bike!



HobbesOnTour said:


> Damn but it was hard. . . . I struggled.
> Then I had another chat with myself and told myself my head was on wrong. I shouldn't be looking for what was wrong, what was hard, I should be looking at what I'd done. That's when I realised that I hadn't expressed any gratitude for getting out of a sticky mess. I had a look around, thought about where I had been, thought about where I'd be without those two, kind men and I whooped once in gratitude, once for joy. (I had no more energy!)


That is what the birds sang, I am sure!



HobbesOnTour said:


> Near death experience aside the encounter lifted my spirits for the last stretch. I took the turnoff and left the highway behind now on a simple two laner alongside the Río Cauca.


Definitely getting pretty close to earning that Explorer/Adventurer badge! 

Well done!


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## CharlesF (27 Jan 2022)

Very interesting last post about the battering taken by the tent and bike. It’s those details that emphasise the distances covered, and obstacles overcome.


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## cwskas (2 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Can I ever go back to NL after this?


How many Km would it take to match the climbing you have done in Columbia? Just a hypothetical thought.



HobbesOnTour said:


> The mighty Roccado! Battered but not broken still taking me higher and higher


Roccado might be ready for a vacation somewhere. Maybe a cycle spa, some place he can dream of downhills on smooth roads.



HobbesOnTour said:


> Maybe I'm the laziest bike tourist of them all, maybe I'm going a little crazy but I can stand at the side of the road and be lost in these scenes. The jags, the crags, the valleys, the peaks. It's a visual orchestral performance


Clearly not crazy . . . at least not all the time!  As you often point out, the breaks allow you to really take in the location and take lots of pictures. 



HobbesOnTour said:


> This touring thing is tougher than it looks!






HobbesOnTour said:


> The road to the Casa de Ciclistas


I looked up the bike shop and Casa on the internet after you mentioned them a few posts back. Looks like a great place to stay. Maybe you can hear about some of what you missed this time in Ecuador.

I also plotted a route from La Pintada to the cycle shop on Osmand, for practice.


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Feb 2022)

cwskas said:


> How many Km would it take to match the climbing you have done in Columbia? Just a hypothetical thought.


With the exception of Limburg on the German/Belgian border and a few hills around Arnhem NL is the proverbial cycling pancake. I'd be cycling the rest of my days to match the climbing
(Not taking the Dutch headwinds into account)


cwskas said:


> Roccado might be ready for a vacation somewhere. Maybe a cycle spa, some place he can dream of downhills on smooth roads.


Sounds good for me too!


cwskas said:


> Clearly not crazy . . . at least not all the time!


There's a vote of confidence!


cwskas said:


> I also plotted a route from La Pintada to the cycle shop on Osmand, for practice.


Ah, you should try from Jericho and see what it throws up!


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## IaninSheffield (5 Feb 2022)

Not sure whether @HobbesOnTour will be interested in, let alone able to watch 'Fat Biking Through Columbia and Ecuador' during this year's (Virtual) Cycle Touring Festival, but just in case https://cycletouringfestival.co.uk/2022-event/


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## bruce1530 (5 Feb 2022)

Fredonia. I was sure I'd heard of that before. But I think I may be thinking of "Freedonia", from the Marx Brothers "Duck Soup"
"Hail, Hail Freedonia, Land of the Brave and Free"


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Feb 2022)

New album up on Google......
Jardín, Jericó, Andes and getting lost on the mountain

https://photos.app.goo.gl/o7vVkkUUNBykBS999


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## cwskas (16 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I also text chatted with Remi, the French bikepacker. He's getting ready to do the Trampoline tomorrow. I'm jealous! And also a little nervous - it's my recommendation. He also did the loop outside of Pasto that I had recommended and loved it. He's given me a couple of tips too for further down the road. I sent him a picture from my "adventure on the mountain" and think I've earned bikepacking legendary status.


You think he will try the 'adventure on the mountain" route?



HobbesOnTour said:


> Picking these roads I have no idea what I'm in for but I'm making sure I'm enjoying every single moment


What an excellent idea and well practiced! I am usually on roads I travel with some regularity in the car, but they are different on the trike, especially when I can catch them with little or no traffic. I also love the sounds of the birds and which I could figure out how to image them.



HobbesOnTour said:


> Maybe I'm becoming sensible!


This sounds like a good time for a poll! 



HobbesOnTour said:


> Best of all I got to go past and under my "road of trees" ...... Again!


I really like the canopy of trees over the road.



HobbesOnTour said:


> All the work is done by hand so everything is so tranquil and peaceful. Only walking or cycling are the ways to properly appreciate the scene and the sounds. You'll never hear the sound of a machete in a car!


That picture is amazing. The care taken to cultivate that field is quite evident!



HobbesOnTour said:


> Remember .... This was my second choice road!


One of the best shots you have gotten which can somewhat display the breadth of the view!

Now let me see if I can figure out how to do a poll . . .


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Feb 2022)

cwskas said:


> You think he will try the 'adventure on the mountain" route?


 I'm thinking not! He did my route in reverse....... But stuck to the roads


cwskas said:


> Now let me see if I can figure out how to do a poll . . .



You and your polls!

But here's a question for a poll.......
I'm thinking of taking a figary near Popoyan (what kind of figary involves thinking ahead?) that would bring me close to the road to Mocoa.......
Should I consider doing the Trampoline again? 

Glad you're enjoying the photos!


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## netman (16 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Should I consider doing the Trampoline again?


Depends really! Do you feel you have unfinished business there? How much did you love it first time? I'd be worried that it wouldn't be the same a second time, but then, it may even be better...


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Feb 2022)

netman said:


> Depends really! Do you feel you have unfinished business there? How much did you love it first time? I'd be worried that it wouldn't be the same a second time, but then, it may even be better...


I have zero unfinished business there! That was a dream coming true right under my ass.

I loved it the first time, despite the hard work. But I was incredibly lucky with the weather.

I'm afraid too that it wouldn't be the same. Let's not forget that it's bloody tough and not a little dangerous too. 

The thing is that to get to Pasto (and from there to Ecuador) I only have two road options - both of which I've done before. 
Either way I'm going to be covering "old ground". 

What a feckin' dilemma!


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## netman (17 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The thing is that to get to Pasto (and from there to Ecuador) I only have two road options - both of which I've done before.
> Either way I'm going to be covering "old ground".


In that case I'd let the old legs decide myself ... if they're good then maybe the trampoline... not so good then the easier road - tongue firmly in cheek there as I'm not sure there are many 'easy' roads in Columbia by the sounds of it!

Whichever way you decide I wish you a safe journey and as Joe Barr says "Your life, all your experiences, can appear in a single pedal stroke. You move it all forward when you move the bike forward."


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Feb 2022)

netman said:


> I'm not sure there are many 'easy' roads in Columbia



You're not wrong!




netman said:


> Your life, all your experiences, can appear in a single pedal stroke. You move it all forward when you move the bike forward."


You know all the great quotes!


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## Rickshaw Phil (18 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> ......................
> I'm thinking of taking a figary near Popoyan (what kind of figary involves thinking ahead?) that would bring me close to the road to Mocoa.......
> *Should I consider doing the Trampoline again?*
> .......................................


It's something only you can decide of course..

If you did want to traverse it again I'm sure you'd have a great deal of support and encouragement from those of us half a world away.


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## cwskas (19 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Should I consider doing the Trampoline again?


I assume it would be the opposite direction? That could seem like a whole new route.


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## cwskas (19 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Am I the laziest bike tourist ever or am I doing this right?


I appreciate and enjoy your approach. 



HobbesOnTour said:


> I don't recall seeing someone as pale.


🙂 That is because I had long sleeves and tights!



HobbesOnTour said:


> A bit wild, a bit tamed. What a place to live!





HobbesOnTour said:


> the countryside was just so damn perfect!


Your photos from this day are fantastic and support your enthusiasm. 



HobbesOnTour said:


> My miles per day are crap for a "bike tourist" but my smiles per mile are sky high!


Smiles per mile . . . Might be a good title for a new journey. 🤔



HobbesOnTour said:


> I stopped and savoured. Moved 50 meters and repeated the process. I'm coming to the end of coffee country and I'm feeling it. I can't explain it, it kicks my ass on a regular basis but there is something about this area that doesn't just speak to me, it sings to me.


🎶 🎶 🎶


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## cwskas (19 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was nearly out of *México* before I knew it and straight into mystical *Guatemala* which tempered my sense of loss on leaving *México*. This is different. I'm heading into familiar country, Ecuador is down the road, then some big roads, a big city and a plane.


Am I confused or just lost trying to keep up?


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Feb 2022)

cwskas said:


> I assume it would be the opposite direction? That could seem like a whole new route.



No, it would be in the same direction. If it was in the opposite direction it would be a no-brainer. I'd be seeing everything different and at different times of the day.
There's only one border post open, unfortunately so options are limited.



cwskas said:


> Am I confused or just lost trying to keep up?


Sorry! After so long in Colombia (and looking forward to it for quite a while) I'm feeling a sense of loss as I close in on the border. A lot like when I was leaving México. Hence the talk of México and Guatemala


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Feb 2022)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> It's something only you can decide of course..
> 
> If you did want to traverse it again I'm sure you'd have a great deal of support and encouragement from those of us half a world away.


Thanks!


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## cwskas (24 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My enthusiasm was at zero. This hadn't sprung up overnight, it had been building for days.





HobbesOnTour said:


> For a start, I'm coming to the end of this trip. I knew that would hit me at some point and now it has. The fact that I'll be finishing in Ecuador and not Patagonia as planned feels like a failure of sorts.





HobbesOnTour said:


> feelings aren't reality. I know that - I just don't feel it. Frustrating!





HobbesOnTour said:


> This trip is nothing like a failure! It wasn't what I had planned but is all the more wonderful for that.
> Ecuador I still need to get my head around and I could do with rediscovering my "Touring Head".
> And the road to Ipiales? I have alternatives. Not easy alternatives, but they exist. Besides, what kind of a Dumbass on the other side of the world decides that he's seen it all?





HobbesOnTour said:


> I had several long chats with myself along that road. Not a lot changed in terms of my mentality but my destination did. I'd stop in Piendamo for the night. I'd pamper myself, relax and give my head a bit of time to get itself together. I'd still have the figary option in the morning if I felt like it.


Sounds like you have a good grasp of what you are feeling and why. Hopefully, the pampering will be just what you need. And . . .
Feelings are neither right nor wrong, they are just feelings. I think sometimes the types of feelings expressed above are akin to mental and/or emotional exhaustion.

I often retreat to some of my older favorite music which transports me to different places and times and almost always brings back memories that help soothe my runaway mind.

The last days of winter tend to always be hard on me, but that just makes the onset of spring time that much more enjoyable.


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Feb 2022)

cwskas said:


> Sounds like you have a good grasp of what you are feeling and why. Hopefully, the pampering will be just what you need. And . . .
> Feelings are neither right nor wrong, they are just feelings. I think sometimes the types of feelings expressed above are akin to mental and/or emotional exhaustion.
> 
> I often retreat to some of my older favorite music which transports me to different places and times and almost always brings back memories that help soothe my runaway mind.
> ...


Thanks Willie,

Yep! Feelings are just that. They can be as substantial as we let them be. The problem for me has always been to control the darker ones. I'm getting better at it, though.

Of course, you would mention music! After Texas wiped my iPod! I actually found some music on a memory card a little while ago. It was a playlist I had made for someone else. There's a lot of crap on it but there's some good stuff too. YouTube is great too - I have some playlists on there - but internet has been sketchy of late. It will seem silly that on the adventure of my life I find myself looking forward to plugging in my old laptop and hearing all my old friends. My iPod would have helped a lot on those days.

Yes, Spring is just around the corner! (Some people here are amazed at the idea of four different seasons. To them two seasons is perfectly normal - wet and dry). Time for more adventures on your trike! 
The last couple of years have been hard on a lot of folk. Hopefully now things can start getting back to normal. 

Thanks for commenting

And as proof that things aren't quite so gloomy and dark........


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## cwskas (27 Feb 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> And as proof that things aren't quite so gloomy and dark........


Yes sir! You are now probably on at least 4 new FB posts!



HobbesOnTour said:


> It won't go down as the longest or greatest day on a bike but it was just what the doctor ordered. I left in good form, I enjoyed the day


Very impressive photos today as well. Too bad the butterflies are left to our imagination.


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Mar 2022)

cwskas said:


> Very impressive photos today as well. Too bad the butterflies are left to our imagination


I included two photos on the Strava log just for you! If you can pick out the butterflies you have better eyes than I


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## cwskas (1 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Some trees are just special


Very interesting shot, I really like the composition.



HobbesOnTour said:


> My day started with a bright beaming smile and it ended with one too.
> 
> What a great day!





HobbesOnTour said:


> There is nothing, and I mean nothing to make me think "oh, this is a nice place" - except for the people.


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2022)

Hi folks

Well, it happened again. I've lost my phone again and without my tablet I'm locked out of all my accounts. New phone, new location = all kinds of problems.

I know some of you follow HobbesOnTour on Facebook. If you could make a post on my page (wall?) to explain that I'm currently unable to communicate through normal channels that would be great. Google, Hotmail, Facebook, WhatsApp are all locked down.

If you could ask anyone that I have had email contact with to email me on dumbassontour@gmail.com that would help a lot. I need to provide email addresses and subject lines for verification.

If anyone knows someone in Google that would be even better!

There's a lot of short term hassle but the biggest problem if I don't get back in to Google is that I'll lose the last two and a half years of photos.

I got jumped by four guys on a busy road. Not a single car stopped to help. Other than a sore elbow and a broken chain guard we're fine. All they wanted was the phone. (No need to mention that on Facebook)

Many thanks!


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## cwskas (3 Mar 2022)

Done!


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## IaninSheffield (3 Mar 2022)

PM'd


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## CharlesF (3 Mar 2022)

That’s bad news, I’m not on Facebook, but will send an email


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## chriswoody (3 Mar 2022)

Blimey, that's bad news, I hope you can get back into your accounts without too much hassle and you're not too shook up by it all. I'll send you a PM as well.


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2022)

Thanks, folks.
I appreciate all the sentiments.
At the moment I'm working at two paces - one is very, very slow, having to wait before I can do something, the other is working frantically to do what I can outside of the blocked accounts. Also, trying to do things at European times. 

Just to clarify, I need the information from email correspondence prior to losing the phone - email address and subject title - to my blocked account. 

Anyone who wants to email me is more than welcome  but it won't be helping the "blocked" problem.

As a non techie person the whole thing is really, really interesting - or it will be when I come out the other side. A lot of people lose access to their accounts with no comeback. It seems next nigh to impossible to talk to a human. "Use your home or work WiFi" they say!

It's a real shame that this happened so close to the border (I'm in Ipiales). 

As you might guess there'll be no updates for a while - notes and photos are on the phone/cloud and inaccessible. But, there'll be a humdinger of a post when I get around to posting!

In the meantime I'm happy to chat. 

Thanks!


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## netman (3 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Just to clarify, I need the information from email correspondence prior to losing the phone - email address and subject title - to my blocked account.


Have sent you an email...
Do let me know if there's anything I can do to help from this end...
Al.


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2022)

@Moderators , @Pat "5mph" 

@netman has just reminded me that I have emails from cycle chat about PMs (and possibly other activity)

Could I ask (if possible) to send me maybe 3 or 4 of the most recent ones (prior to March 02) with the email address it was sent from and the subject heading to 
dumbassontour@gmail.com and 
dumbassontour@outlook.com

That would be really helpful!

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> @Moderators , @Pat "5mph"
> 
> @netman has just reminded me that I have emails from cycle chat about PMs (and possibly other activity)
> 
> ...


Sorry. Quoting this to add @Shaun 

Thanking you


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## ColinJ (4 Mar 2022)

I haven't really been keeping up, but just looked in. I'm sorry to hear about you having your phone stolen.

Just a suggestion - how about buying a really cheap 'sacrificial' phone to keep in a pocket for muggers to steal while you keep your good one well hidden?


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## Pat "5mph" (4 Mar 2022)

@HobbesOnTour I can't find where the system keeps sent emails: I have asked @Shaun,he's probably still at work just now.


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> @HobbesOnTour I can't find where the system keeps sent emails: I have asked @Shaun,he's probably still at work just now.


It's ok @Pat "5mph" 
I don't need them now.
I need emails that I sent to people, not received. 

I rarely use email anymore and trying to track down the ones I do is tricky without access to my accounts. Family and friends have been sceptical to get random messages


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Mar 2022)

Just a little update.....
Got access to my main email, Hotmail.
Cannot get access to Google. Can't even begin the process.
Got Facebook.

Have enough info to cross the border.

Not all good, but not all bad.


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## Pat "5mph" (5 Mar 2022)

A step forward @HobbesOnTour


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Mar 2022)

Ok the good news........

I got access to Hotmail, my main email address, which gave me access to my EU vaccine QR code and my permission to stay in Colombia until March. I can cross the border.

After a lot of stress I finally managed to register my phone for online banking. Without that I would have had to tap into an emergency reserve left with a friend and had to change my plans. 

The landslide of offers of help, assistance, money and goodwill from a pretty wide part of this little planet is probably the best bit of good news from all of this. Thank you seems so inadequate. 

The bad news.....

I'm still locked out of Google. In fact, I can't even begin the "account recovery process". It's a frustrating, never ending series of loops. 
In practical terms this means I'm without any photos. If I don't get the account back all the photos of this trip are gone. I'm not dwelling on that too much although I imagine some friends of mine are breathing large sighs of relief! :-)
It means that Osmand and Google Maps are blank in terms of any places I've saved - all that data is tied to Google. 
They still work, Osmand will still be my planner but any places that tickled my fancy and had been marked are gone. 

My contacts, WhatsApp etc. are gone. Remi, the French bikepacker? Lost in Cyberspace. A pity. And lots more. 
My notes, original copies of my travelogue are all behind the Google wall. My voice memos (for those special moments in special places) are gone with the phone for good. 

There's more but I couldn't be bothered listing it all. Let's just say it's been a major inconvenience. 

But it could have been so much worse. 

I'm very glad that I started to develop what I call the "gratitude habit". Look, however hard it may be, for the things to be grateful for. 

There's you lot on here posting supportively and helpfully and messaging privately. Not for the first time @cwaskas Willie, in his understated way, stepped up.
I didn't know Willie when I set off. Willie, and people like him, are one of the reasons for doing a trip like this. 
I think poor @pat5mph was more stressed out by the whole thing more than me - and that's saying something.
You others who have contacted me. Thank you. 

The girl in the shop where I replaced my phone was efficient, honest and fair. The guys in the hotel were good too. 
The Police were helpful in a practical way, less interested in the details of the crime than making sure I got the best advice in relation to cancelling the old phone. They were wrong but there was no doubting the enthusiasm. 
The guy in the Claro shop (telecom) who got me set up for international calls (for the Bank), personally escorted me to the cashier to make sure I got the right type of credit and who then dropped everything when I returned half an hour later with the phone still not working. He discovered I needed to dial an "exit code" before the international code.

The guy in the hotel in Las Lajas who recognised me, listened and set me up (again) on their WiFi so I could attempt to log in to Google from a familiar WiFi location. (It didn't help).
And I'm OK.
Lots to be grateful for.

And to the Travelogue.....
More bad news.........

I have neither my notes, write ups nor photos for the next posts in the Travelogue. 
I could recreate the text. I have a handful of photos on my camera. I could throw something together but I'm not going to do that.

Not meaning to build up the suspense but the next day was one of the most satisfying on a bike for me. It involved mountains, roads, heights and incredible satisfaction.

I took the loop from Pasto along the road that inspired me to take a selfie. More great days if it didn't quite work out as planned. 

Even the day to here, Ipiales, that ended so unpleasantly, was good up to that point. Good, tough and satisfying. 

Those posts deserve better than to be "thrown together" and to be influenced by what happened later. So there'll be no more posts for a while. I'll still write them up and sort photos but I want to keep the sequence correct. 

It shouldn't be too long, I hope. In any case the flight ticket is booked.
I'm going to cross a big imaginary line and that'll be the end of the Big, Big Trip. Part One.


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## CharlesF (6 Mar 2022)

Gradually good news emerges, I feel completely unhelpful and can only hope everything is res.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Mar 2022)

CharlesF said:


> Gradually good news emerges, I feel completely unhelpful and can only hope everything is res.


Charles, I've no idea why you'd be feeling unhelpful. Please don't. 
There's very little _anyone_ can do. Posting here is help enough - it reminds me that I'm not alone.

I've made it to the border, left Colombia a little sadly, and now standing on a bridge waiting for a doctor to show up and say I'm medically fit to enter Ecuador - that's my next challenge!

Since you like to see pics of wear and tear here's poor Roccado's chainset


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## Pat "5mph" (6 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I think poor @pat5mph was more stressed out by the whole thing more than me


I haven't given up: I have just sent you something I've Googled, another try to get into your account from the phone you have now 
Like you said, it could have been worse, you could have been badly injured for a start.
Even if you can't share the visual part, you still have your memories!


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## CharlesF (6 Mar 2022)

At least the chair set is functioning, the broken plastic adds a bit to your story.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Mar 2022)

Adiós Colombia....... Hola Ecuador...









Country # 9 aka Ecuador


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Mar 2022)

A new country......





Same old thirst for the backroads.....












Same old Dumbass decisions 




















New country?
It's a different world!


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## Pat "5mph" (9 Mar 2022)

How on earth did you ride (or walk) over that big flood?
Can't wait to read all about it!


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> How on earth did you ride (or walk) over that big flood?
> Can't wait to read all about it!


Don't you know by now that I can walk on water

If I get stuck there's always some local help


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## IaninSheffield (10 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Don't you know by now that I can walk on water
> 
> If I get stuck there's always some local help
> View attachment 634597


That's a load of bull.


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## cwskas (10 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A new country......





HobbesOnTour said:


> Same old thirst for the backroads.....





HobbesOnTour said:


> New country?
> It's a different world!



I am going to ignore that middle comment! I am so glad to see some pictures of Ecuador and of new adventure!


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## cwskas (10 Mar 2022)

And I always heard things were bigger here in Texas!


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## cwskas (10 Mar 2022)

IaninSheffield said:


> That's a load of bull.


Did you see this one? Posted by @bagpuss on Your ride today....


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Mar 2022)

Sorry Willie, you're going to have to elaborate......


cwskas said:


> I am going to ignore that middle comment!


Do I do too many backroads? Too few?


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Mar 2022)

cwskas said:


> I am so glad to see some pictures of Ecuador and of new adventure!


Not sure about new but .....

Ecuador..........


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Mar 2022)

These are panoramas that Google created..... No idea what they'll look like....



Ecuador.....





Colombia




Ecuador


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## cwskas (11 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Sorry Willie, you're going to have to elaborate......
> 
> Do I do too many backroads? Too few?



I chose to ignore this comment --> "Same old Dumbass decisions "

But judging from the smilies, I suspect you knew which one!


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Mar 2022)

cwskas said:


> I chose to ignore this comment --> "Same old Dumbass decisions "


Well, it was certainly a DumbAss decision......
I just tried to make the most of it!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

Just thinking out loud.....
@Moderators @Pat "5mph" 

If I was to continue the Travelogue from Ipiales (missing out the days I have few or no photos from) can I go back later (perhaps much later, say 6-9 months) and insert the "missing" posts in the correct order.
If that is not possible for me, is it possible for a Mod to do?

Thanking you


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Just thinking out loud.....
> @Moderators @Pat "5mph"
> 
> If I was to continue the Travelogue from Ipiales (missing out the days I have few or no photos from) can I go back later (perhaps much later, say 6-9 months) and insert the "missing" posts in the correct order.
> ...


Hi Hobbes: I think yes, possible for @Shaun to do this.
Have you tried accessing your old Google by adding your new number under the Google settings for recovery in your new phone, as I suggested?


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Have you tried accessing your old Google by adding your new number under the Google settings for recovery in your new phone, as I suggested?


That makes perfect sense......
Except that I need to be in my Google account to change the number! 

And I can't get in!!!


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Except that I need to be in my Google account to change the number!


Well, that's not what Google support states: they say you change the number from the present phone, in Google settings.
Edit: settings on phone, Google account. Not log into your actual Google account. You change the recovery phone to the present one ... it's on the net


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Well, that's not what Google support states: they say you change the number from the present phone, in Google settings.


Yes indeed. For the Google account associated with the phone. For me that is a brand new account! 

If I want to use this new phone for the old account I need to access the old account. And that's what I can't do.


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> If I want to use this new phone for the old account I need to access the old account. And that's what I can't do.


Yes, I understand.
But it would allow you to link the 2 accounts, I think?
A wise man (my company's IT trainer ) once said: never set up 2 step verification on the same phone you want to access, in case you lock yourself out


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> But it would allow you to link the 2 accounts, I think?


Of course! So long as you have access to both accounts


Pat 5mph said:


> A wise man (my company's IT trainer ) once said: never set up 2 step verification on the same phone you want to access, in case you lock yourself out



Isn't hindsight great! 

The issue is my Hotmail account _is_ my recovery email but for whatever reason Google only wants to use the phone.
(I have emails from Google (to my Hotmail) informing me that someone (ME!!!) tried to access the account and Google stopped them! 

It's email only for me from now on.


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It's email only for me from now on.


IIRC, one can also set up security questions.
Again, hindsight!
I have alerted @Shaun of your predicament, in case he can help.
I have also asked him about the retrofitting of your travelogue.


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Mar 2022)

Security questions on the internet: I usually put the name of my cat.
This was fine 20 years ago. Meantime I had another dozen cats, sometimes I forget the name I put down 
Are you gonna tell us how you passed the flood? I'm dying to know


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> IIRC, one can also set up security questions.
> Again, hindsight!


They don't do that anymore but if an account is old enough (and mine is) they will be a part of the recovery process.
Unfortunately, I cannot begin the recovery process - I am in a hellish loop revolving around the phone number.

Between the Travelogue, Berman's map, purchases (storage space, Duolingo etc.) and links to a PayPal account I am pretty confident that I can prove "ownership".
The really, really frustrating part is I cannot start that process for whatever reason





Pat 5mph said:


> I have alerted @Shaun of your predicament, in case he can help.
> I have also asked him about the retrofitting of your travelogue.


Thank you.

I've reached out to people I know in several countries who work in IT. Other than an 'in' with someone in Google there seems like there is little to be done.

My best hope at this stage is to wait until I'm back in NL and hopefully my old laptop is still alive. Assuming, of course, that I can remember it's password!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Security questions on the internet: I usually put the name of my cat.


Now that's just silly to be posting online! 



Pat 5mph said:


> This was fine 20 years ago. Meantime I had another dozen cats, sometimes I forget the name I put down


I used girlfriends ....... And had the same problem




Pat 5mph said:


> Are you gonna tell us how you passed the flood? I'm dying to know


I will.......
When I know that I can go back later and add in the missing posts


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## IaninSheffield (13 Mar 2022)

Truly terrific topiary in Tulcan.
'Normal' service would appear to have resumed.


HobbesOnTour said:


> I have decent WiFi now so will take advantage of it. Enjoy


Indeed we will, and so glad you found the stamina to fight through recent trials and tribulations to resume the adventure.


HobbesOnTour said:


> I asked him about the quality of the back road to El Angel - great he said. I'd asked my coffee guy yesterday and he said the same.


I wonder if they might have been thinking of another 'back road'?
I'm always dubious about responses from non-cyclists to questions like 'How far is it to ...' or 'Is the road to x hilly?', but you'd hope for a more accurate response from a fellow two-wheeled traveller. I'm now imagining the scene later that day of an Ecuadorian racing snake wafting along some smooth tarmac, conversing with other members of his cycling club - (_In spanish, obvs_) 'So the gringo on his pantechnicon excuse for a bike asks me about the quality of the back road to El Angel. And I said ...' Cue muching


HobbesOnTour said:


> Now this I loved!!! A huge, long mural on the road south


Amongst all the wonderful street art you've shared, that is exceptional!

Looking forward to seeing how/whether Ecuador insinuates itself into your heart in the ways that Mexico and Columbia did.


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

IaninSheffield said:


> Truly terrific topiary in Tulcan.



Thanks for showing up my lack of vocabulary 



IaninSheffield said:


> Normal' service would appear to have resumed.



Not sure if it has. I'm feeling uneasy on the bike. It was easier to process the Guatemala incident because I'm rarely in big cities and it was (I think) a freak circumstance. I'm finding it harder to process this one because it happened on the bike (where I spend a lot of time) in a situation I didn't even suspect and happens every single day.


IaninSheffield said:


> I wonder if they might have been thinking of another 'back road'?


Unlikely but there is a problem with maps in Ecuador, apparently. A lot of roads don't appear on maps. Google is more crap than usual. Mira's streets don't exist according to them.


IaninSheffield said:


> the gringo on his pantechnicon excuse for a bik


What did you just call Roccado????? 


IaninSheffield said:


> Amongst all the wonderful street art you've shared, that is exceptional!


It really, really is! The scale, the vibrancy, the sheer length of the thing and the quality is just stunning.

I was lost in this one


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## chriswoody (13 Mar 2022)

Great to see you back updating your blog. Ecuador is a country I've spent a good few months traveling in, it's such a wonderful and diverse country. I really loved my time there and found the people really friendly and accommodating, though this was nearly twenty years ago, I'll be interested to read how you find you now.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm sure some folk think that pushing a bike on a bike tour is heresy but I really don't care. I'm not convinced that I'm a cyclist so "traveller" suits me better. And walking and pushing is travelling. Besides, get a bike and ride Tulcan to El Angel and then talk to me about pushing!



Given the road you were on, pushing is a perfectly valid option, however, us hardy off-road touring types tend to call it "hike a bike" it sounds more rugged than pushing.


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## cwskas (14 Mar 2022)

Ian seems to be feeling his oats . . . Or perhaps just energized by your return to the blog.

Quite entertaining I say! 👊🏻 For each of you.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Mar 2022)

chriswoody said:


> Ecuador is a country I've spent a good few months traveling in, it's such a wonderful and diverse country. I really loved my time there and found the people really friendly and accommodating, though this was nearly twenty years ago, I'll


You've been to lots of great places!
It's going to be interesting for me too!
The thing is in my head I came here to cross the equator and catch a plane...... It's not exactly in discovery/exploration mode.

However, my few days camping have reset my head so I think I'm in a better frame of mind. You'll just have to be patient





chriswoody said:


> I'll be interested to read how you find you now.


I'm never sure how I find myself

I know what you mean. Had a wonderful day on backroads and small villages yesterday




chriswoody said:


> us hardy off-road touring types tend to call it "hike a bike" it sounds more rugged than pushing.


You know, I always thought Hike-A-Bike implied carrying the thing - easy to do with a light setup, not so much for me

If all it means is pushing I'm going to be less scared of all those bikepacking routes!

Seriously though, a couple a couple of months ahead of me attempted the Trans Ecuador (Road) bikepacking route got stuck and had to abort. The rain has been unusually heavy and early/late this year otherwise I would have being giving some of it a go.


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## chriswoody (14 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> You've been to lots of great places!
> It's going to be interesting for me too!
> The thing is in my head I came here to cross the equator and catch a plane...... It's not exactly in discovery/exploration mode.
> 
> However, my few days camping have reset my head so I think I'm in a better frame of mind. You'll just have to be patient



I was just lucky that in the early noughties, as an Outdoor Pursuits Instructor, I had a job for an expedition company leading overseas adventure trips. I managed to bag a few expeditions going to South America and Ecuador was one country I returned to a couple of times. Whilst being paid to work and travel in Ecuador is pretty cool, it did mean that I couldn't follow my heart and travel where I wished, though we did get to some amazing out of the way places and had a fair few adventures. Funnily enough, even though I did criss cross the Equator whilst there, I passed up the chance to visit the Mitad Del Mundo. It will be good to see Ecuador through your eyes and experiences, I will patiently await more news of your exploits though.



HobbesOnTour said:


> You know, I always thought Hike-A-Bike implied carrying the thing - easy to do with a light setup, not so much for me
> 
> If all it means is pushing I'm going to be less scared of all those bikepacking routes!
> 
> Seriously though, a couple a couple of months ahead of me attempted the Trans Ecuador (Road) bikepacking route got stuck and had to abort. The rain has been unusually heavy and early/late this year otherwise I would have being giving some of it a go.



Whilst I have got the weight of my bike and kit combined, to below 20kg, it is still a pig awkward thing to carry when loaded up. I can happily lift it over obstacles like fallen trees, but given the option, I'll push every time. Shame to hear of folk aborting the Trans Ecuador, the weather can be a real issue with off-road routes, however, I'm going to go and look into this Trans Ecuador route now and dream!


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## cwskas (14 Mar 2022)

chriswoody said:


> Whilst I have got the weight of my bike and kit combined, to below 20kg, it is still a pig awkward thing to carry when loaded up.



I much prefer having my trike support me to the other option! Probably weighed 35# that day.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Mar 2022)

We don't need the bestest, newest bikes.
We don't need to be super fit (no smoking at the equator!)
We don't need the lightest, minimalist gear.
Hell, we don't even need a sense of direction!

For something that was a figary, to head to Ecuador and ride across the Equator, it turned out to be a pretty good feeling!


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Mar 2022)

This one is for @cwskas 

I've been carrying that shirt since Costa Rica (after my Texan vaccine trip).

Willie, that shot should get you free sandwiches for life! 

My thanks, my sincere thanks, for your support, your words and your actions that have helped and enriched this whole trip.






It's your turn now 

(I'll probably regret this later......
But someday that shirt will be photographed in Ushuaia)


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## cwskas (16 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I've been carrying that shirt since Costa Rica (after my Texan vaccine trip).


I ate there yesterday and was trying to remember if I had given you that shirt or not. I remembered thinking about it!

HUGE congratulations on making it to the equator!

Willie


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## cwskas (16 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'll probably regret this later......
> But someday that shirt will be photographed in Ushuaia


You won't doubt it, that is for certain!


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## Pat "5mph" (16 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> When I know that I can go back later and add in the missing posts


Greetings!
I can confirm that we will be able to do the renumbering of the posts for you at a later date.
Shaun aka the Boss says so! 
I feel another database training coming on for this Mods team


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> I can confirm that we will be able to do the renumbering of the posts for you at a later date.


Many thanks!!


Pat 5mph said:


> I feel another database training coming on for this Mods team


Ooooops!  Sorry!


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Mar 2022)

Hola all!

Sorry, while I have internet access I don't have enough to be uploading pics (and I have a fair bit of research to do) so the Travelogue has been put on the back burner. It's all written up and ready to post.

I'm just outside of Quito and due to board a plane to Madrid, tomorrow evening (Tuesday) and arriving on Wednesday afternoon! 

I am excited! 

There's a whole load of logistics and complications to sort out - I've never flown with a bike before and COVID doesn't help - but I'm working my way through it all. 

I'll be landing in Madrid, reassembling Roccado and cycling to a campground - how cool is that?

I've filled my empty map of Spain with loads of routes but I'm leaning towards a relaxing ride reading and following Don Quixote to start off. Then, who knows?

I am so looking forward to my first bottle of vino tinto and a tortilla de patata! I'm wondering how my Latin Spanish will fare in the land of Castellano!

What I thought was sure to be a depressing time - the end of the Big, Big Trip - is anything but! 

Viva España!


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## Oldhippy (21 Mar 2022)

Reading about your adventures has made me think could I, should I go the full Hobbes and be a nomad. A lot to think on.


HobbesOnTour said:


> Hola all!
> 
> Sorry, while I have internet access I don't have enough to be uploading pics (and I have a fair bit of research to do) so the Travelogue has been put on the back burner. It's all written up and ready to post.
> 
> ...


----------



## Alex321 (21 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Hola all!
> 
> I'll be landing in Madrid, reassembling Roccado and cycling to a campground - how cool is that?
> 
> ...


You'll be wondering where all the hills are - that before you went you would have thought were mountains!


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## Cathryn (21 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Hola all!
> 
> Sorry, while I have internet access I don't have enough to be uploading pics (and I have a fair bit of research to do) so the Travelogue has been put on the back burner. It's all written up and ready to post.
> 
> ...



I'm excited you're in the same continent as us!!!!


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## IaninSheffield (21 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> What I thought was sure to be a depressing time - the end of the Big, Big Trip - is anything but!
> 
> Viva España!


That's great to hear.


HobbesOnTour said:


> I'll be landing in Madrid, reassembling Roccado and cycling to a campground - how cool is that?


Hope your sleeping bag is up to muster. Still a bit chilly at night this far north of the equator. But then nights in the mountains weren't always so warm, were they?


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## CharlesF (21 Mar 2022)

What a ride for us arm chair travellers. Thanks @HobbesOnTour


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Mar 2022)

Alex321 said:


> You'll be wondering where all the hills are - that before you went you would have thought were mountains!


I do seem to remember no shortage of climbs the last time I was in Spain


Cathryn said:


> I'm excited you're in the same continent as us!!!!


Almost! 


IaninSheffield said:


> Hope your sleeping bag is up to muster. Still a bit chilly at night this far north of the equator. But then nights in the mountains weren't always so warm, were they?


It was bought for the shoulder seasons in the Andes..... I think it'll handle Spain OK
I do like my comfort! 😊


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## cwskas (21 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'll be landing in Madrid, reassembling Roccado and cycling to a campground - how cool is that?


Woohoo! Onward, Rocado, Onward!



HobbesOnTour said:


> I am so looking forward to my first bottle of vino tinto and a tortilla de patata! I'm wondering how my Latin Spanish will fare in the land of Castellano!
> 
> What I thought was sure to be a depressing time - the end of the Big, Big Trip - is anything but!


I am looking forward to stories and photos from España and I have no doubt there will be a high degree of enthusiasm and satisfaction expressed in your posts.

 And I am wondering if the title of the new blog will be as long as this one!

Willie


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Mar 2022)

cwskas said:


> I am looking forward to stories and photos from España and I have no doubt there will be a high degree of enthusiasm and satisfaction expressed in your posts.


Oh dear 

I'm sorry, Willie, but I'm not planning on maintaining the Travelogue after Ecuador.
I'm pretty sure that I already said that. 
And I've no plans to start a new one. 

This part of the trip is different. I'm going to be looking for a place to settle down. A place that speaks to me and that will give me a chance to try a few ideas I have to make a living. 
I'm just not going to have the time to write everything up. I'll be doing research along the way.* It takes quite an amount of time for each post on a phone, you know, even with good WiFi.

I'll keep notes to be sure and it might make an interesting winter project to write it up but my last post in this Travelogue will be about my (hopefully!) exit from Ecuador.

If things work out TBBT Part Two will pick up in Ecuador. But that'll be a while away 

You've some trips coming up, no? 
Your turn! 

* I reserve the right to throw up the odd miscellaneous story from the road, mods permitting.


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## cwskas (22 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm sorry, Willie, but I'm not planning on maintaining the Travelogue after Ecuador.
> I'm pretty sure that I already said that.
> And I've no plans to start a new one.


I understand and I do remember. I responded hastily. Kathy can attest to that 'occasional' tendency.


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## CharlesF (22 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Oh dear
> 
> I'm sorry, Willie, but I'm not planning on maintaining the Travelogue after Ecuador.
> I'm pretty sure that I already said that.
> ...


As my mother liked to say “All good things come to an end”! 

But do add an occasional brief update on how things are going. Many of us feel a real connection to you!!


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## Andy in Germany (22 Mar 2022)

Are you travelling in Europe? Let me know if you are passing through Freiburg...


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Mar 2022)

Andy in Germany said:


> Are you travelling in Europe? Let me know if you are passing through Freiburg...


You may come to regret that offer! 
I do intend to be passing through Germany, route as yet unknown, probably in the Autumn. Roccado might need a service in your workshop and I can be walking, talking proof of how far we can go on an old bike


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## cwskas (23 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was chatting to French people in Spanish in a German campground in Ecuador! I cannot describe just how chuffed I am with myself!


Sounds like just what the doctor ordered. What an excellent place it sound like.



HobbesOnTour said:


> The. Food!
> I didn't stop smiling the whole time I was there. I was either eating, looking forward to eating or enjoying the satisfaction of a good meal well savoured.





HobbesOnTour said:


> A slightly more rotund yours truly


I thought those two comments might somehow be related!


----------



## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Hola!
Greetings from cold and wet Madrid!

For a first time flying with the bike everything went flyingly

Talk about culture shock on arrival!! 

It's cold, damp and could be miserable but I bought some wine, chorizo, cheeses and had a feast in my tent last night. Oh! I ❤️ Spain!

I'm going to acclimatise (in every sense of the word), get out of Madrid and go looking for some backroads. 







Hasta luego!


----------



## Oldhippy (24 Mar 2022)

Welcome back to Europe! 😁


----------



## cwskas (25 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Homework for @cwskas


By homework, I assume you meant research. 


*Lento pero viene
by *
*Mario Benedetti*

Lento pero viene
el futuro se acerca
despacio
pero viene

hoy está más allá
de las nubes que elige
y más allá del trueno
y de la tierra firme

demorándose viene
cual flor desconfiada
que vigila al sol
sin preguntarle nada

*iluminando viene
las últimas ventanas*

lento pero viene
las últimas ventanas

lento pero viene
el futuro se acerca
despacio
pero viene

ya se va acercando
nunca tiene prisa
*viene con proyectos
y bolsas de semillas
con ángeles maltrechos
y fieles golondrinas*

despacio pero viene
sin hacer mucho ruido
cuidando sobre todo
los sueños prohibidos

los recuerdos yacentes
y los recién nacidos

lento pero viene
el futuro se acerca
despacio
pero viene

ya casi está llegando
con su mejor noticia
con puños con ojeras
con noches y con días

con una estrella pobre
sin nombre todavía

lento pero viene
el futuro real
el mismo que inventamos
nosotros y el azar

cada vez más nosotros
y menos el azar

lento pero viene
el futuro se acerca
despacio
pero viene

lento pero viene
lento pero viene
lento pero viene



Translated by Google!

Slow but it's coming
the future is coming
slowly
but it's coming

today it's beyond
of the clouds you choose
and beyond thunder
and from the mainland

delaying is coming
what suspicious flower?
watching the sun
without asking him anything

*illuminating comes
the last windows*

slow, but it's coming
the last windows

slow, but it's coming
the future is coming
slowly
but it's coming

it's getting closer
he's never in a hurry
*it comes with projects
and seed bags
with battered angels
and faithful swallows*

slowly, but it's coming
without making much noise
taking care of everything
forbidden dreams

the lying memories
and newborns

slow, but it's coming
the future is coming
slowly
but it's coming

it's almost coming
with his best news
with cuffs with dark circles
with nights and days

with a poor star
without a name yet

slow, but it's coming
the real future
the same one we invented
us and chance

more and more us
and less chance

slow, but it's coming
the future is coming
slowly
but it's coming

slow, but it's coming
slow, but it's coming
slow, but it's coming​


----------



## cwskas (25 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Greetings from cold and wet Madrid!
> 
> For a first time flying with the bike everything went flyingly
> 
> ...



Bienvenidos a Madrid, Señor Hobbes! En españa te espera una nueva y magnífica aventura ciclista.


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## cwskas (25 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Pan Am. Some people dream of riding this "road". I was one of them. It varies so much from place to place that there's no consistency. I like to stop and tell myself just what road I'm on to remind myself just what I'm doing ...... then look for an alternative





HobbesOnTour said:


> Then there was one of those moments of serendipity that always seems to happen. First, one familiar face, then another peered around the door. Simon and Vicki, the Austrian couple I'd met back in the Casa de Ciclistas in Medellín! Sometimes sticking to the big roads has its advantages! And having a big, ugly flag - that's what they noticed!
> 
> After what happened to me in Ipiales I had made contact to warn them (and also the Casa) but they hadn't enjoyed Colombia like I did and were already in Ecuador. Somehow, slowcoach me had overtaken them!





HobbesOnTour said:


> We set off together and there and 912 days into this trip I knocked something off my list that I'd forgotten about - cycling with someone else!





HobbesOnTour said:


> We learn things about ourselves when we cycle with others.





HobbesOnTour said:


> With a cheap, basic camping option near to the equator we stocked up in a town and found the place.
> Another pleasure. Setting up camp with others. A totally different experience for me. A well experienced team it was interesting to watch the teamwork and organisation. My tent floor was very wet from this morning so needed a bit of time in the wind and fading sun to dry out.
> 
> Simon & Vicki set about preparing dinner for the three of us, I brewed coffee and later provided the vino tinto to wash it all down. My second vegan meal of this trip. It's difficult to describe how enjoyable the whole experience was. Obviously it's very enjoyable to have a good meal prepared and handed to me, but having company in what would otherwise be an empty corner of a field was quite the experience.





HobbesOnTour said:


> We chatted until well past my usual camping bedtime and were comfortably in our tents when the rain started. Home - with amigos!


What satisfying and unexpected timing to help you finish up Part One!


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## cwskas (25 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I passed a couple of coach makers along the road


That carriage is quite a restoration or perhaps new project.


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## cwskas (25 Mar 2022)

_*Cayambe volcano *_
has a permanent snow cap . . . last erupted in March 1786 . . . at 4,690 metres (15,387 ft), its south slope is the highest point in the world crossed by the Equator, and the only point on the Equator with snow cover.


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## cwskas (25 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The Equator!
> 
> It's just a line. But for me it represents the end of one thing and the start of another. I was so happy that I took this figary and instead of heading for Bogota and a plane I gave myself one more journey. An eventful journey, to be sure, but one that I'm not going to forget.


A day that will often be remembered I suspect and recounted with friends and fellow travelers.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2022)

cwskas said:


> By homework, I assume you meant research.


I only meant to translate the bit in the photo
Well done for showing me up!



cwskas said:


> day that will often be remembered I suspect and recounted with friends and fellow travelers.


Remembered, yes. 
Recounted, not so sure. It's only a line on a map after all. It only becomes significant for what it means - and that's just to me.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2022)

cwskas said:


> That carriage is quite a restoration or perhaps new project.


Given that I passed two (or maybe three) of these places my money would be on new projects - but I know nothing about such things.


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## CharlesF (25 Mar 2022)

@HobbesOnTour I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew, I have started to whizz through the entire post, reading bits and looking at the photos. 

So much has passed, I need to get a better grasp of the magnitude of your adventure.

Wish me luck!!


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## Alex321 (25 Mar 2022)

CharlesF said:


> @HobbesOnTour I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew, I have started to whizz through the entire post, reading bits and looking at the photos.
> 
> So much has passed, I need to get a better grasp of the magnitude of your adventure.
> 
> Wish me luck!!


I did that, after joining this forum last year. VERY well worth the read, even knowing something of what is coming with the pandemic.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2022)

CharlesF said:


> @HobbesOnTour I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew, I have started to whizz through the entire post, reading bits and looking at the photos.
> 
> So much has passed, I need to get a better grasp of the magnitude of your adventure.
> 
> Wish me luck!!


Whizz???
WHIZZ???
A euphemism for urination???
Or in the same vein as zip, fly and speed????


I'll not be wishing luck for such an approach

I'll admit to being a bit jealous, though

Enjoy! 

And if you (or anyone else) wants to get a grasp of where the road will be taking me soon then dig out that copy of Don Quixote that is knocking around somewhere and have a read. 

I just have to get out of Madrid ...... And frankly, that's going to be a tough thing to do! If ever a city was designed for my kind of flaneuring it's Madrid. And CDMX. 

You'll have to excuse me - my calamari sandwich has just arrived.  Oh to be back in a country where food is an expression of life and not just a means to live.


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## IaninSheffield (25 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I know somewhere that @IaninSheffield is banging his head against a wall wailing "could he not do another 17km??


Nah. There's a standard cycle touring 17km, then there's the Hobbes figary to reach the same destination. You'd still be in Ecuador up some little farm track in the hills if you hadn't made that call.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Mar 2022)

IaninSheffield said:


> the Hobbes figary


You know me so well!


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## Pat "5mph" (27 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'll keep notes and maybe write it up over the winter. Or maybe there's a book in it.


Ahem, I'm used to read your BBT journal while having my dinner, I'll just have to restart from the beginning 
There certainly is a book in the BBT!


HobbesOnTour said:


> Anyone know any literary agents?


Nay, but surely we can find one.
I volunteer to be your proof reader/editor 


HobbesOnTour said:


> The strange, the unusual, the foreign is to be celebrated, savoured and understood.


I bet you had a field when you first moved to the Netherlands  


HobbesOnTour said:


> When I get around to doing TBBT Part Two I'll ask to reopen this thread (and cue the complaints about the long title!)


I've locked it, as you requested, but I also left it pinned, because it's one of the best travelogues CC has for now 
Can't wait to read about your Spanish adventures.
Hola for now


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## bruce1530 (27 Mar 2022)

@HobbesOnTour - a sincere thank you for writing this travelogue. It's been quite an adventure for you - and I like to think that we have shared a little of that with you. Your writing has been inspiring, and the photographs incredible. 

And I'm sure I'm not the only one who became more than a little concerned when we went a few days without a new post!


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> I'm used to read your BBT journal while having my dinner


Oh dear! Some posts were not "dinner suitable" 


Pat 5mph said:


> There certainly is a book in the BBT!


Nope! It's very kind of you to say no (and you're not the first) and it feels very good to read that but I wrote that out as it happened for better or worse. It's as accurate a reflection as I could relate. The idea of an editor butting in would squish my heart.


Pat 5mph said:


> I volunteer to be your proof reader/editor


 @cwaskas got in before you 

I've had a specific idea for a book for a long time (bike touring based) but it will need quite a bit of research first. 
I am half serious about a professional effort of recreating the hapless adventures of Don Quixote & Sancho Panza though. A long plane journey will do that. Who else is better suited for hapless adventures 


Pat 5mph said:


> I bet you had a field when you first moved to the Netherlands


Not quite getting that. 
In fairness, I never really settled in NL. I was too resistant to the Dutch way of doing things. Looking back it took quite an amount of arrogance to hold the view that 17.5 million people were wrong .... And that I was right
When I changed work, took the foot off the accelerator I mellowed and started to change my perspective.


Pat 5mph said:


> I also left it pinned,


Thank you. 
My first reaction was to say not necessary but as I think about it a locked thread with no posts will sink to the bottom. So thank you for that!


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Mar 2022)

Thanks for the kind words



bruce1530 said:


> And I'm sure I'm not the only one who became more than a little concerned when we went a few days without a new post!



That's what Facebook was for! It's my "Let-People-Know-I'm-Not-Dead method of communication.

I was dependent on WiFi and it could take hours just to lay out and upload a post - even when it was all written out.

Since the forum software upgrade it has taken longer and been more difficult trying to format the layout and adding the photos.


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## Pat "5mph" (27 Mar 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The strange, the unusual, the foreign is to be celebrated, savoured and understood





Pat 5mph said:


> I bet you had a field when you first moved to the Netherlands





HobbesOnTour said:


> Not quite getting that.


Well, I meant the weed smoking and beer drinking ... and, of course, the coffee drinking 
Did you not celebrate, savour, understand? 


HobbesOnTour said:


> In fairness, I never really settled in NL. I was too resistant to the Dutch way of doing things.


That's why you did a Hobbes!
I did the same 35 years ago, but I took the train


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## Scotchlovingcylist (28 Mar 2022)

Just spent the last 3 days reading your travelogue and I dont think words will do justice to how, amazing, inspiring, informative, resilient it and you are sir. To say I dont know you I felt fully immersed in your adventure and ranks as one of the most memorable things I have ever read.
I must also admit to a selfishness in the sadness felt now it has come to an end after only just coming across it and giving it the attention it deserved. 
All the best for the future and will look forward to anything you post from your time in Spain!


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Mar 2022)

speedfreak said:


> Just spent the last 3 days reading your travelogue


Three days???? THREE DAYS????
Well, you're living up to your name!



speedfreak said:


> felt fully immersed in your adventure and ranks as one of the most memorable things I have ever read.


Thank you! That's a real compliment! It's a difference I've noticed from my own reading of the difference of a "live" account and a later memory.
CrazyGuyOnABike will have more!



speedfreak said:


> I must also admit to a selfishness in the sadness felt now it has come to an end


Well, after three days of reading I've little sympathy for you!  In touring we have to pace ourselves! 


speedfreak said:


> All the best for the future and will look forward to anything you post from your time in Spain!


Many thanks!


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## Pat "5mph" (29 Mar 2022)

I think I'm gonna start the BBT travelogue from the beginning again: me too I am guilty of speed reading!
I read books that I enjoyed twice at least, the second time they are even better


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Well, I meant the weed smoking and beer drinking ... and, of course, the coffee drinking
> Did you not celebrate, savour, understand?


Weed? Not a bit of it.
I have no interest in that stuff or anything stronger. A certain amount of fear of it too. 
It's a bit of a stereotype about the Dutch - weed, hookers and clogs.
Other than a bit of experimentation the vast majority have no interest in my experience. However, for some it's a part of everyday life.
As for the booze? I was working in a bar. And Dutch beer is pish. German & Belgian beers are where it's at 

Coffee? Hmmmm. Dutch coffee is expensive and service is crap I used to drink my coffee at work from a (pint) Guinness mug 




Pat 5mph said:


> I did the same 35 years ago, but I took the train


Feck off with yourself then to a train spotter's forum!


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Mar 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> I think I'm gonna start the BBT travelogue from the beginning again: me too I am guilty of speed reading!
> I read books that I enjoyed twice at least, the second time they are even better


Thank you! 😊

My favourite books are like old friends. I've read some books so many times I can read them with my eyes closed. 

I've learned to slow down and savour though. At home, reading aloud is a great pleasure


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2022)

Cryptic mode.....
Texas and Toledo. Anyone make out the connection?


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## Alex321 (30 Mar 2022)

Well there is a place in Texas called Toledo Bend, but I doubt that is what you are talking about


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2022)

Alex321 said:


> Well there is a place in Texas called Toledo Bend, but I doubt that is what you are talking about


Nope!
Texas is where I got my COVID Vaccine, Toledo where I got my booster.
As things currently stand all European borders are open to me.
Without the booster I'd have had problems crossing borders after May. Mind you, I don't quite know how that would have worked out on a bike anyways..... At least until I hit a ferry.

Edited to add.....
Toledo is jaw droppingly amazing!


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Apr 2022)

The Trampoline ...... in a van.....


View: https://youtu.be/YO5yq73_mVg


(From about 18 mins. )


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Apr 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A more professional approach.....
> Bikepacking The Andes - A Colombian Gravel Epic:
> View: https://youtu.be/x0s3GSm25Us
> 
> ...




Sorry to quote my own post but.....

I bumped into Jenny (from the video) today and was able to give feedback on the video! 

It could well be said that the fastest female bike tourist on the planet met the slowest 

I had tears in my eyes lifting her bike and she had tears trying to lift mine - but for completely different reasons

And it's a toss up if she was the most interesting person I met today - I spent more time chatting than cycling

Bike touring - it's feckin' great!


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## HelenD123 (26 Apr 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Sorry to quote my own post but.....
> 
> I bumped into Jenny (from the video) today and was able to give feedback on the video!


Sadly the video is now private


----------



## Alex321 (26 Apr 2022)

HelenD123 said:


> Sadly the video is now private



It was one of the GCN+ videos, normally only available to subscribers, that they made generally publicly available for a few weeks only.


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## HelenD123 (26 Apr 2022)

Alex321 said:


> It was one of the GCN+ videos, normally only available to subscribers, that they made generally publicly available for a few weeks only.



Ah, I'm a GCN+ subscriber but haven't been on for a while. Will see if I can find it that way.


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## Alex321 (27 Apr 2022)

HelenD123 said:


> Ah, I'm a GCN+ subscriber but haven't been on for a while. Will see if I can find it that way.



If you are logged in, this is the link 
https://plus.globalcyclingnetwork.com/watch/colombia-an-andes-adventure


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## HelenD123 (27 Apr 2022)

Alex321 said:


> If you are logged in, this is the link
> https://plus.globalcyclingnetwork.com/watch/colombia-an-andes-adventure



Thanks. I have watched that one. Very envious that HobbesonTour got to meet Jenny Graham. I think she's awesome.


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Apr 2022)

HelenD123 said:


> Thanks. I have watched that one. Very envious that HobbesonTour got to meet Jenny Graham. I think she's awesome.



I bet you wish you were still in Spain for all kinds of reasons.

To my shame I only knew of her from the video - endurance riding and records aren't exactly my thing. It was only later that I had a quick peep online inspired by something she said to discover that she's the fastest female circumnavigator. 😊

A very pleasant and down to earth character.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 May 2022)

I have found it! The ultimate non-bike, bike touring accessory!

Not in the least guaranteed to make the bike tourist lighter or faster (although it may help us seem that way!), not made of the latest, lightweight polywhatsitsname (it's one of the oldest traveller's friends from a material that's probably older than humans) and it's probably not for the health conscious. 





This is my Bota! A wineskin made from goatskin.

It'll hold a litre of vino tinto.
The half litre size was too small for sharing, the 1.5 litre seemed indulgent and I don't have a tinto problem big enough or sufficient amigos for the 4 litre version.

If anyone is unsure..... Spain is feckin' amazing!


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## HobbesOnTour (31 May 2022)

Hey folks, just a heads up that Willie aka @cwskas has rounded himself up a posse and is heading off on a multi-state adventure! 
He's writing about it here:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/off-on-my-first-longish-catrike-adventure.285685/

Suerte, amigo

And whoever suggested Spain isn't hilly......


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Jun 2022)

@CharlesF ,
I know you like photos that show the damage that a long journey does so here you go.....





After another muddy encounter I didn't clean the brake pads properly and managed to gouge out a nice section from the rim.
That was about two months ago and I monitored the situation daily...... Until last week when I lost my nerve
New rim and ready to rock'n'roll!


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jul 2022)

Calling @netman (and anyone interested in a great performer)






Just thinking.....
Maybe you could ride your Schwinn to see her Stateside!


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## netman (6 Jul 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Calling @netman (and anyone interested in a great performer)
> 
> Just thinking.....
> Maybe you could ride your Schwinn to see her Stateside!



Awesome, might have to try to make one of those! Sadly won't be in the US though - I'm back home now, need to finish my write-up in retrospect!


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jul 2022)

netman said:


> Sadly won't be in the US though



Sorry, I didn't mean right now but for a bit of a bike touring fantasy.......

She lives in Nashville (I think) and a quick check on CycleTravel tells me that it's (exactly) 1000km Ohio to Nashville.

Just saying.....


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jul 2022)

Sometimes it's hard to look on the bright side....... Especially if the view suggests I may need to lay off some of the fantastic Spanish food 😊
But at least I have another wear & tear photo for @CharlesF


----------



## HobbesOnTour (9 Aug 2022)

More broken things for @CharlesF 

Second thermarest to go bubbly and unusable. 






And I've never managed this before.....
One of the cogs (fourth from smallest) got bent and was unusable.


----------



## CharlesF (9 Aug 2022)

Shows plenty of use. I wonder how one bent? Maybe a stone was flicked up, we will never know.


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## netman (9 Aug 2022)

CharlesF said:


> Shows plenty of use. I wonder how one bent? Maybe a stone was flicked up, we will never know.



It's the sheer pure power @HobbesOnTour puts down that did it...


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## Alex321 (9 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> More broken things for @CharlesF
> 
> Second thermarest to go bubbly and unusable.
> View attachment 656454
> ...



That's two of the cogs effectively unusable, as the chain won't sit on either of them with that small a gap.

I wonder what caused it?


----------



## HobbesOnTour (10 Aug 2022)

@netman that might be how some cycle in Spain..... But it sure as hell ain't my style!

The heat has been incredible and conservation of energy and effort is vital. 

These were the "roads" I was travelling when it happened....




















Tough on the bike, tough on me but great fun!!


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## netman (10 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> @netman that might be how some cycle in Spain..... But it sure as hell ain't my style!



Not even when coffee is calling?! ☕

How's the cortado's over there?


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## cwskas (11 Aug 2022)

netman said:


> Not even when coffee is calling?! ☕



How do they say 'tinto' in Spain?


----------



## HobbesOnTour (11 Aug 2022)

netman said:


> Not even when coffee is calling?! ☕
> 
> How's the cortado's over there?



Cortado? As in coffee? 
My go to is a café con leche - simple, delicious and normally cheap. 
Believe it or not, it has been so hot for so long that my coffee consumption has dropped significantly!


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Aug 2022)

cwskas said:


> How do they say 'tinto' in Spain?



Oh, we still say "Tinto" .......... but these days it refers to wine.
It's a killer though. I was so looking forward to hitting Rioja & Navarra and sipping my way around - but it was too darn hot!!! I mean record breaking hot.


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## cwskas (11 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was so looking forward to hitting Rioja & Navarra and sipping my way around



Filed in the 'For another time' section of your brain, I suspect.


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## Pat "5mph" (11 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Believe it or not, it has been so hot for so long that my coffee consumption has dropped significantly!


Try iced coffee, it's lovely!


----------



## Shadow (11 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I was so looking forward to hitting Rioja & Navarra and sipping my way around


Rioja does come in white, that will be 'blanco', and very tasty it is too. And there is Albarino, Txacoli (sp?!), manzanilla and many others. In fact, españa produces an array of very delicious white wines - less well known and underrated in the UK and US.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Aug 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Try iced coffee, it's lovely!



I may have to!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Aug 2022)

Shadow said:


> Rioja does come in white, that will be 'blanco', and very tasty it is too. And there is Albarino, Txacoli (sp?!), manzanilla and many others. In fact, españa produces an array of very delicious white wines - less well known and underrated in the UK and US.



About a third of Rioja is white..... But it doesn't sit well with me. I tried one and found it far too sweet, which for sweet tooth me is saying something!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Aug 2022)

Wine country.....






















CycleTravel did a great job of keeping me off the main roads and on smaller gravel tracks that weaved through the vineyards. And up!! And more up!! 

Not the same magic (for me) as coffee country but remarkably similar in terms of the odd person out and tending to the crops, poor roads that only the locals and farmers used and little towns dedicated to the crops and the products. And not any kind of negativity to the foreign interloper puttering through their domain. The very rare pickup or even rarer tractor I'd meet would always slow down so as not to throw up too much dust.
I wasn't rushing but it still passed too fast. Temperatures were in excess of 40C and too much time in the sun became extremely uncomfortable. Places to stop were chosen for shade, not beauty and there were far too few of the former to properly appreciate the latter.


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## Shadow (15 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> About a third of Rioja is white


Not sure where you found this/who told you this! It is only about 10% (9% in 2020).



HobbesOnTour said:


> But it doesn't sit well with me. I tried one and found it far too sweet,


This is very, very weird! I am not familiar with any Rioja producer making sweet (i.e. dessert level sweetness) wine, however, a few do make a _semi dulce_ or _semi seco _e.g. Diamante from Bodegas Franco Españolas. These would taste 'sweet' to someone who likes a dry white! 
If you asked for a glass, or bottle, of vino blanco, I find it very hard to believe they would give you a _semi dulce_ or _semi seco_. And if they did, I would send it back! 
So, I urge you to try again! Ensure you are given vino blanco seco - they are delicious. Although beware of the 'traditional' long oak aging of some, e.g. Tondonia from Lopez Heredia, they are an acquired taste! Even to me, and I will drink almost any wine, they need spanish cuisine.


edit: 
p.s. love the 3rd pic in post #1171, such a typical spanish landscape.


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## dimrub (16 Aug 2022)

Finally I decided that enjoying this epic journey silently is the wrong way to do it. I'm now at day 112, having taken a hiathus, and am enjoying it immensely. 

Einstein was right, but also wrong. You don't need to speed to almost the speed of light to cause time to slow down. Time flows differently when one travels on a bicycle. Our week-long adventure along Eurovelo 6 seemed like a month - while it was going on: things that took place on the first or second day seemed to have happened long time ago. I can only imagine the subjective time dilation that takes place over a span of almost 3 years. Very inspirational. One day I too will undertake, well, maybe not something as epic, but a journey that will play curious games with time and distances.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Aug 2022)

Shadow said:


> Not sure where you found this/who told you this! It is only about 10% (9% in 2020).


It was the guy doing the winery tour. Mind you, I wasn't in agreement with a lot of what he said.
In the interest of openness I've worked pretty extensively with wine in a previous life.


Shadow said:


> I am not familiar with any Rioja producer making sweet (i.e. dessert level sweetness) wine


It wasn't a dessert wine but a semi-sweet and still far too sweet for my palate


Shadow said:


> So, I urge you to try again!


For whites I prefer Italian, but tinto is my favourite casual (wine) drink. Especially Spanish tinto. In any case my alcohol consumption is almost zero because of the heat.




Shadow said:


> Although beware of the 'traditional' long oak aging of some, e.g. Tondonia from Lopez Heredia, they are an acquired taste!



I'm awkward! The woodier the better


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Aug 2022)

dimrub said:


> Finally I decided that enjoying this epic journey silently is the wrong way to do it


I agree wholeheartedly  Welcome aboard! 


dimrub said:


> Time flows differently when one travels on a bicycle


It really does. Or it can if we allow it. Not everyone does.


dimrub said:


> a journey that will play curious games with time and distances


If you really, really want to mess with time and distance involve a global Pandemic! It really changes things up! 

Travelling as you do with your son you have another time dimension in your equation. In years to come, decades even, there will still be memories of trans European adventures. The hassles, the stresses, all the things that go wrong will disappear or become part of a great tale, memories and bonds. 

Enjoy my story but enjoy continuing your own even more!


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## Shadow (16 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Mind you, I wasn't in agreement with a lot of what he said


 I wonder where they found him or 'educated' him.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I've worked pretty extensively with wine in a previous life.


Now you have really piqued my interest. May I ask doing what & where?
Also being open, my first job in the wine world was with a spanish specialist.



HobbesOnTour said:


> It wasn't a dessert wine but a semi-sweet and still far too sweet for my palate


I know what you mean. And yet they can make wonderful aperitifs, I adore german kabinetts.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm awkward! The woodier the better


Of course you are! Then I strongly urge you to try both white and red Tondonia from Lopez Heredia. And/or any other red from this producer. They are quite unlike anything else I have ever had the pleasure to drink.


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Aug 2022)

Shadow said:


> May I ask doing what & where?


I spent four years in hotel school in Dublin then spent a few years working in Dublin including being headhunted for a pretty famous restaurant. My wine experience comes from college then working ..... And some playing. There was a lot of wine tasted in those days. I did everything from banquets to high end dining.
Later, I ventured into the world of whisk(e)y. And beer, of course, as I gravitated to more bar work. 
At one stage I had 350 different whiskies on my shelf and a story for every one. Well, to be honest, I had no story for one but that in itself was its story. 

I dislike intensely anything that makes enjoying food or wine difficult. As I've become older I much prefer the experience to the product. Give me a decent drink or simple food with good company any day over something fancy. Colombian coffee as an example. It wasn't that the coffee was so great but the experience was. 
I used to do whisk(e)y tastings, pretty informal by most standards but I got great feedback from them and great craic doing them. 
There's far too much bullshoot involved in much of the food & beverage business these days. I try not to add to it 
Those 350 whiskies weren't on a list or a menu. We tried to match a whiskey to the customer based on what they told us. I had some fabulous staff who really got into it - the females were always better than the makes and a few could identify most of them blind - something I'd struggle to do. 

I like to ask the waiter/bar tender what's good, to recommend something. People who care about what they do can make some great suggestions. There's apps for that these days. One of the reasons I got out when I did.
In one of my favourite restaurants I didn't order - I just left it up to the chef who was fabulous. I loved his food (even though he couldn't comprehend my aversion to asparagus) and he loved my reactions. I reciprocated by expanding his whiskey knowledge.



Shadow said:


> They are quite unlike anything else I have ever had the pleasure to drink.


The strangest wine I ever had was Lebanese. Not always available because the poor man couldn't always get to his vines to harvest them because of the civil war. I swear I could taste metal and gunpowder in it!


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## cwskas (17 Aug 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Well, to be honest, I had no story for one but that in itself was its story.



Was that an empty bottle?


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Aug 2022)

cwskas said:


> Was that an empty bottle?



Hell no! No story, no sales.


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Sep 2022)

@CharlesF
Here's some more "wear and tear" for you..... Although less wear and tear and more complete dumbassery on my part! 

I managed to not just mangle the rear derailleur








But snap half of it off





To make matters more interesting I was in the middle of nowhere with practically no passing traffic about 35km from a town ......








But a beautiful part of the world! 







Honestly, folks, if a feckin'eejit like yours truly can do this cycle touring lark..... Just about anyone can!


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## Oldhippy (11 Sep 2022)

Hope you get it sorted and are back on your way soon.


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Sep 2022)

Oldhippy said:


> Hope you get it sorted and are back on your way soon.



Thanks!
I'm currently waiting for the bulls to start running! 
It's Fiesta time where I am so no hope of a bike shop being open for a few days. The nearest city is almost impossible to reach by public transport so Amazon came to the rescue. 

I get to wait and soak up a local Fiesta. 
When life serves up lemons.......


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## Andy in Germany (11 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Thanks!
> I'm currently waiting for the bulls to start running!
> It's Fiesta time where I am so no hope of a bike shop being open for a few days. The nearest city is almost impossible to reach by public transport so Amazon came to the rescue.
> 
> ...



Ah, I was about to ask how close you were to Freiburg but you've answered that one. I could send one in the post...


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## Pat "5mph" (11 Sep 2022)

@HobbesOnTour believe it or not, just yesterday I was thinking about you!
I said to myself I must check your FB, haven't had posts for a while - well, sometimes you don't get notifications, as you know.
Did you detach the derailleur, ride the 35K single speed?
Keep well!


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Sep 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> @HobbesOnTour believe it or not, just yesterday I was thinking about you!
> I said to myself I must check your FB, haven't had posts for a while - well, sometimes you don't get notifications, as you know.
> Did you detach the derailleur, ride the 35K single speed?
> Keep well!



Ha! That explains the bad karma yesterday!


Yep! I shortened the chain and _attempted_ to cycle the last 35km.
Turns out this single speed park is a bit specialist, especially trying to connected chain with no "give" from the derailleur or the ability to adjust the position of the wheel. 
The only way I could get any kind of consistency was in the small front ring and a middle sprocket on the back (with occasional and random skipping) which led to some furious pedalling at very low speeds

Behind me the sinking sun made the whole country a rich, red, gold colour and in front of me a full, orange moon was rising. 
As disastrous days go it wasn't all that bad! Until I got to the campground..... That was closed! But that's another story


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Sep 2022)

Andy in Germany said:


> Ah, I was about to ask how close you were to Freiburg but you've answered that one. I could send one in the post...



Thanks, Andy. 
Maybe next time! ￼
How are your wheel building skills?


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## Andy in Germany (11 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Thanks, Andy.
> Maybe next time! ￼
> How are your wheel building skills?



What do you need? I've probably got a suitable one in the wheel breeding colony store. If you let me know what you need now I may even find it by the time you get here.


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Sep 2022)

Andy in Germany said:


> What do you need? I've probably got a suitable one in the wheel breeding colony store. If you let me know what you need now I may even find it by the time you get here.



You're too good! 
I'm grand, thanks, at least for the moment. 
But any double walled, expedition standard rims (26 inch, 36 hole) that you come across I'll be happy to pay for.


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## Andy in Germany (11 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> You're too good!
> I'm grand, thanks, at least for the moment.
> But any double walled, expedition standard rims (26 inch, 36 hole) that you come across I'll be happy to pay for.



Front and rear?


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Sep 2022)

Andy in Germany said:


> Front and rear?



With what I'm doing to my poor wheels at the moment yes please*

Rim brakes too - those disc brakes are too new fangled for me 

In all seriousness I won't be making it up to Germany for a while (although I had a lovely chat this morning with a chap from Bingen that did make me feel a bit homesick. I ❤️ that stretch of the river!)


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Sep 2022)

September 14, 2022*
Three years on the road!!! 













Taken before the heavens opened and (almost) biblical floods tried to wash me away. And no photo can depict the wind. Oh the wind!! Granny gear all the way! 

I'm feeling a bit tired, Roccado too, and am actively looking for work to stay here for a while.

Jury's still out on whether this was the smartest or dumbest thing I've ever done but I'm leaning towards smartest

* Typically me I completely forgot the "anniversary" on the day


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## Vantage (21 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Jury's still out on whether this was the smartest or dumbest thing I've ever done but I'm leaning towards smartest


Cycling every day exploring the world vs going to work every day in a job you might hate for some scmuck who neither values your efforts or pays well for those efforts?

Well, that's a tough one!


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Sep 2022)

Vantage said:


> Cycling every day exploring the world vs going to work every day in a job you might hate for some scmuck who neither values your efforts or pays well for those efforts?


Oooh! Tough crowd on here! 

Fear not, I know just how lucky I am! 

The picture you paint isn't wrong, but it is just one scene.
After a crappy day at work (or an eventful day on tour!) you've got Pam at the end of the phone for a lift or just a hug. If I'm lucky I get a friendly doggy  

I certainly don't regret what I've done (and don't see myself doing that in the future, either) but a bit like a snowglobe, everything has been shaken up and I'm waiting to see how it all settles down. 

My fear is that the curiosity, the calmness, the lack of fear (ironically!) that this trip has given me will fade away. 

We'll see what happens.......


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Sep 2022)

I'm not the greatest at recording my journey on a map (I miss @netman ) but I discovered that Google Photos has been tracking me! 
This is what I've been doing for the last few months.


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## netman (28 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not the greatest at recording my journey on a map (I miss @netman ) but I discovered that Google Photos has been tracking me!
> This is what I've been doing for the last few months.
> 
> View attachment 662635



I miss following your travels too! Try https://timeline.google.com/maps/timeline as well - that might have been tracking you also!
Looks an amazing journey - I often travel to the Girona area and love it there... did you go by Figueres by any chance? The Dali Theatre-Museum is an extraordinary place!


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Sep 2022)

netman said:


> I miss following your travels too!


You're very kind!
I'm taking good notes so I hope to settle down some day and write them all up.


netman said:


> I often travel to the Girona area and love it there... did you go by Figueres by any chance? The Dali Theatre-Museum is an extraordinary place!


I got to Girona late in the evening but had a good wander around. Like so many places here it is just dripping with history. It's less a case of seeing it and more "feeling it" - or maybe I'm just becoming more "loco".

I'm not visiting many museums - some of them have very strange opening hours - because I'm trying to drill down into the place I'm in. Besides, I reckon I'm going to be here for a while so what's my rush? 

I did find that Catalunya had an "edge", a busy-ness that is absent from everywhere else in Spain. 
In a small hill village I was warned (for the first time since Central America) not to leave my (loaded) bike unattended. 
The bigger places, while not hostile, felt less relaxed. There's also a clear poverty divide in Catalunya, far moreso evident than in other places. The wealthy are very wealthy and the poor are very poor.


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## Shadow (28 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> This is what I've been doing for the last few months.



Love the pink tracing. Looks like a spanish _pulpo_ floating around between the med and biscay or perhaps lying on a slab at market!


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Sep 2022)

Shadow said:


> Love the pink tracing. Looks like a spanish _pulpo_ floating around between the med and biscay or perhaps lying on a slab at market!



It looks like someone really needs a trip to Spain!  Or at least a good Spanish restaurant 

I had Calamari only the other evening. A starter of mixed meats with cheese, the squid, rice pudding for dessert, a large bottle of cold water, a generous Copa de vino tinto and two coffees. All for €14,20!


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## Shadow (28 Sep 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> It looks like someone really needs a trip to Spain!  Or at least a good Spanish restaurant



I would be happy with both. Either would suffice. Gladly.


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## cwskas (7 Oct 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm not the greatest at recording my journey on a map (I miss @netman ) but I discovered that Google Photos has been tracking me!
> This is what I've been doing for the last few months.
> 
> View attachment 662635



17,500 photos in 7 months ???!!! I am guessing the map covers the 7 months and the photo count is since you signed up on Google!


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Oct 2022)

cwskas said:


> the photo count is since you signed up on Google!


Aye, since Hobbes signed up on Google the second time round!
Remember the stolen phone? No access to the original Google account yet


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Oct 2022)

cwskas said:


> 17,500 photos in 7 months ???!!! I am guessing the map covers the 7 months and the photo count is since you signed up on Google!



I knew you'd be the one to notice the number of photos! 

No, Willie, those photos are all since March! 
Pretty much a few weeks of Ecuador and then España.

I am going to be the biggest bore if anyone ever says "oh, do you have any pictures of your little trip?"


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Oct 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Aye, since Hobbes signed up on Google the second time round!
> Remember the stolen phone? No access to the original Google account yet



Yep! That's right! 
It gives an idea of how many photos ai've lost 

Speaking of which, I'm going another round with Google. inspired by the payment of my annual subscription for storage space (for all those feckin' photos!). So far I've got two people to just ignore me. I view that as progress because before I couldn't talk to anyone! 
I have a definite link between me and the account - if only I can get someone who can do anything other than parrot the account recovery process. 

The payment also triggered my PayPal which I have been able to restore after emails and a phonecall. 

Slowly. Slowly. I'll get there.


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Oct 2022)

It's not mine but from Facebook.
I've twittered on and on about layers of mountains.......
Well, this is what a proper photographer can do! (Colombia)


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Nov 2022)

Hmmmm....... Maybe drones aren't so bad after all.....


View: https://youtube.com/shorts/3iJv0POn9UM?feature=share


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Nov 2022)

The end of the road........




And it sure looks pretty 

I've just moved in to my first "proper" accommodation since México after packing up the tent for the last time..... For a while 

I have a job, a tax number but there is still a whole load of hoops to jump through - the Spanish authorities make the German bureaucracy look like child's play! 

I'm in a beautiful part of the world, near to the ocean and mountains. Who'd have thought I'd come to ❤️ mountains so much! 

I'm looking forward to sitting down and reading my Travelogue (I've ordered a Chromebook to enjoy the photos on a bigger screen), improving my Spanish and really getting a feel for this place. I thought I "knew" Spain when I arrived - Ha! Dumbass! 

I've taken pretty good notes and have a bazillion photos so I'll get around to writing everything up at some stage. 

I turn 50 in a few days and it's more than three years since I headed off and I'm ready to settle in one place for a while. I'm excited at what's in front of me. I keep saying that I don't know if this was the smartest or dumbest thing I've ever done but at this stage I don't regret a thing. 

Bike touring - it's feckin' great!


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## Oldhippy (23 Nov 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> The end of the road........
> View attachment 668941
> 
> And it sure looks pretty
> ...



So looking forward to reading the book of the tour Hobbes. 😁


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## Pat "5mph" (23 Nov 2022)

@HobbesOnTour so you won't have access to your old laptop in the Netherlands to try to sign into your old google account?
Will someone send you over that laptop? I guess you could go and get it yourself, you're a stone throw away


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> to try to sign into your old google account?


Ah, there you go breaking my heart!! 

I think I'm up to 12 people now ignoring me in Google! 

I realised that Google has an app (Google1) that covers all the "stored" content in Google so I downloaded that and tried to log in. I went through a slightly different process that actually used my "recovery" email address and received the response that Google would look into verifying me. That'll take a month, so maybe by Christmas! 

Otherwise I'll need to take a trip up to NL to retrieve the laptop but after so much time I wouldn't be confident that that will change anything. It's not a priority.

There's a flaw in Google's processes in that I have the name of my account, my password and my recovery email but no-one will explain why nothing is working. There doesn't seem to be a complaints process nor an internal review. If it was just a "free" account I'd probably accept that - we get what we pay for - but I'm paying for the storage - so I'm not accepting it - plus it's pretty clear prrof that the account is mine. 

I'll get there. Sooner or later. 

The killer is that one of the "lost" days from the Travelogue was one of my best days on a bike - ever! 
If I do get my notes and photos back you'll be one of the first ones to know since the Mods will have to squeeze the lost days in!


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## chriswoody (27 Nov 2022)

Best of luck for the future, exciting times ahead. I hope it's not too hard a transition settling down and stopping after all this time on the road. Don't leave the tent packed too long though, no doubt there's plenty of shorter touring options to be had where you are!


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Nov 2022)

chriswoody said:


> Best of luck for the future, exciting times ahead. I hope it's not too hard a transition settling down and stopping after all this time on the road. Don't leave the tent packed too long though, no doubt there's plenty of shorter touring options to be had where you are!



Thanks! 
No doubt it will be a bit strange, at least at first but I'm happy with my decision. A bit of a base for a while won't be a bad thing at all. Luddite me has discovered Spotify so one of the things I've been missing the most - music - is sorted for a while.

There's lots of interesting cycling around here - one of the reasons I'm here - and I'll be hoping to do a few overnighters. It gets cold at night but is pleasantly warm and sunny in the daytime. A light load and I can get to some interesting places.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2022)

Yes, I'm a tease 

@Pat "5mph" I'm afraid that I'll be asking to insert a few "lost" days into the Travelogue


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## Pat "5mph" (12 Dec 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> @Pat "5mph" I'm afraid that I'll be asking to insert a few "lost" days into the Travelogue


Did you get access to your account then?
Excellent!


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Did you get access to your account then?
> Excellent!



I did! 
It only took nine and a half months


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Did you get access to your account then?
> Excellent!



Hola, @Pat "5mph" 
Not only do I have (most) of my photos and notes I've started writing them up in the Thread Editing Suite

Now, I've no idea how difficult or otherwise it is to add the new posts to the BBT thread or if it makes sense to wait until I'm finished them all before posting them so I'll leave it in your hands if that is ok?

Neither do I know if it's easier to delete the "holding" post or just place the new ones after it. Again, your call.

For reference, https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/t...-just-tell-him-your-plans.254046/post-6685984 is the "holding" post.

My thanks in advance for your help.

Spoiler alert!


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## Pat "5mph" (14 Dec 2022)

@HobbesOnTour the posts to be inserted are from the 29th of February to the 5th of March 2022, correct?
I don't know how to insert them in the correct order, after the holding post, but @Shaun said at the time it can be done, so I'll ask for instructions.
If I just move them from the thread editing suite, they will go automatically at the end of the BBT thread.
It also occurred to me that for those that have already read till the end, we should also add a link that takes them back to the 29th of February.
You carry on writing, meantime I will find out how to insert your new posts.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> @HobbesOnTour the posts to be inserted are from the 29th of February to the 5th of March 2022, correct?
> I don't know how to insert them in the correct order, after the holding post, but @Shaun said at the time it can be done, so I'll ask for instructions.
> If I just move them from the thread editing suite, they will go automatically at the end of the BBT thread.
> It also occurred to me that for those that have already read till the end, we should also add a link that takes them back to the 29th of February.
> You carry on writing, meantime I will find out how to insert your new posts.



Thank you, @Pat "5mph" 
The "missing" posts actually start on February 24 and will cover the period up to March 05 (inclusive). 
A few days will have multiple posts (a bad habit I've picked up ) and one post will be covering the days in Ipiales. The Travelougue currently continues on Sunday March 06.

I had been thinking to post a link to the first one here when it goes live.

There's absolutely no pressure on this. They're already nearly 10 months late so haste or deadlines don't really count 

If it's all very complicated, I suppose we could add the new ones to the end of the Travelogue and edit the "holding post" with a link to the new posts putting a link in the last one back to the next one back a few pages?

Whatever is easiest.

Many thanks!


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> You carry on writing, meantime I will find out how to insert your new posts.



I'm done 
The missing posts are in the thread editing suite, in order.

(No pressure. I have my photos, I'm happy!)


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## cwskas (16 Dec 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> I'm afraid that I'll be asking to insert a few "lost" days into the Travelogue


Woo Hoo !!!!



Pat 5mph said:


> for those that have already read till the end, we should also add a link that takes them back to the 29th of February.



Thank you, Pat! I am looking forward to the update!


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## Pat "5mph" (25 Dec 2022)

Merry Christmas @HobbesOnTour et all!
With a little help of @Shaun the Boss, I think I have merged the missing posts in the correct order.
Please, Frank, check, let me know if I made mistakes or if something needs changed.
If you need to do edits, I could unlock the BBTJ for you to do them.
I am proud to say that I have acquired new IT skills (at almost 60 😄) and I'm not afraid to use them


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## cwskas (26 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> I am proud to say that I have acquired new IT skills (at almost 60 😄) and I'm not afraid to use them



Woohoo! Thank you for using those new skills.


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Merry Christmas @HobbesOnTour et all!
> With a little help of @Shaun the Boss, I think I have merged the missing posts in the correct order.
> Please, Frank, check, let me know if I made mistakes or if something needs changed.
> If you need to do edits, I could unlock the BBTJ for you to do them.
> I am proud to say that I have acquired new IT skills (at almost 60 😄) and I'm not afraid to use them



Thank you Pat!  On Christmas day!! I feel very privileged!

I'm really glad that you have acquired these new skills because we're going to need them

There is a bit of a problem with the daily sequence because I'm pretty sure I didn't pack my flux capacitor and therefore time travel was beyond me. (And yes, there's no hope of me hitting 88 mph hour either! )

I'm going to list the posts as they appear by date. I'll include a link to the first post for each day and the (X) refers to the number of posts for that day

Feb 18
Feb 24 (3)
Feb 25 (6)
Feb 26 (3)

Feb 19 (2)
Feb 20 (1)
Feb 21 (1)

Feb 27 (1)

Feb 22 (3)

Feb 28 (2)

Feb 23 (4)

March 01 (1)

March 02 (1)

March 03 (1)

The rest seems to be in the right sequence but perhaps we can drop or better still edit the "holding post" here which explained the gap in the travelogue
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/t...-just-tell-him-your-plans.254046/post-6685984

I am so, so grateful for all your work on this.
There is absolutely no rush in this. Take your time.

Frankly, I'd rather get jumped on the side of the road then hsve to do what you're doing! 

Best of luck, thank you so much and Buon Natale

For everyone else please hold your horses. I'm going "Diva" mode and ask you to wait until they're all ready. 😊

In the meantime check out the videos mentioned in this post. They'll keep you entertained and inspired for quite a while!


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## Pat "5mph" (26 Dec 2022)

@HobbesOnTour the list you gave me wasn't working for me, because on days with multiple posts, if I changed the date on one, then I would lose the connected one from your list 
So, I did search the BBT tread for actual _day_ numbers to match to your posts - lucky you have the habit of starting with "day x, date xxxx".
I started from day 887 and checked that all posts from there matched the date stated.
On multiple posts for one day, I have tried to keep them in the right sequence, because the thread search gave me the order in which you had posted them.
Have another check, please, let me know of any discrepancies, I'll try to fix them  
I have also left a mod's note in your placeholder post, let me know if you'd like different wording instead.
Pat x


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Dec 2022)

Eres estrella, Pat!



Pat 5mph said:


> lucky you have the habit of starting with "day x, date xxxx



Lucky you that (for once) I got a sequence of posts using the correct numbers!  


Pat 5mph said:


> On multiple posts for one day, I have tried to keep them in the right sequence, because the thread search gave me the order in which you had posted them.


OK, there's still a few problems..... But we're a hell of a lot closer!

We have to go back to Feb 13 (Day 883) (Post # 571) - this is the final post in the correct order

Then we jump forward to Feb 19 (Day 889). Two posts, both correct
Feb 20 (890) is next, one post. 

Now we jump back to Feb 14 (884) two posts, both correct
Feb 15 (885) has three posts all correct
Feb 16 (886) has two posts, both correct

Then we jump to Feb 22 (892), Three posts, all correct

Then back to Feb 17 (887) one post
Feb 18 (888) has only one post from two

Feb 23 (893) has the first 2 posts of 4!

Now back to Feb 18 (888) for the second post.

Then Feb 23 (893) again, for posts 3& 4 of four posts.

Feb 24
Feb 25
Feb 26 
Are all good

Then we go back to Feb 21 (891) Single post

Jump forward to Feb 27 (897) Single post
Feb 28 (898) Two of two posts
March 01 good
March 02 good


In summary:
Feb 13 (883)
19 (889) (1 & 2 /2)
20 (890) ( 1/1)
14 (884) ( 2/2)
15 (885) (3/3)
16 (886) (2/2)

22 (892) (3/3)

17 (887) (1/1)

18 (888) (1/2)
23 (893) (1&2 /4)
18 (888) (the towns) (only post 2 of 2) 
23 (893) (3 & 4 /4)
24 (894) all good
25 (895) all good
26 (896) all good
21 (891) 
27 (897) (1)
28 (898) (2/2 all good)
March 01 (899) 
02 (900) 


We can see that I'm still doing a bit of time travel.
It's a bit of a nightmare for me to go through the posts - and I wrote the feckin' things! - so I can't imagine how frustrating it must be for you. 
Please, take your time. As far as I'm concerned there is no rush. 




Pat 5mph said:


> I have also left a mod's note in your placeholder post, let me know if you'd like different wording instead.


Your wording is perfect. Thank you!


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## Pat "5mph" (27 Dec 2022)

@HobbesOnTour sorry!!!! 
I don't know why the posts are still mixed up, it's supposed to be a database for goodness sake!
Yes, I'm having difficulties because, when I move one post (correct the date) then the other posts move in the sequence too, if they were one day matching one post, I think (not 100% sure) that the date changing would keep the sequence.
Could also be that too many date changes at once confuse the system, I'm no IT expert.
However, I won't give up.
Shaun doesn't have time to come on CC very often, so I will sort it   
I'll give it another bash tomorrow


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2022)

Oh, @Pat "5mph" , please stop apologising.
I'd run away rather than face into what you've taken on

However, I am very impressed with your determination! 

As far as I'm concerned there is absolutely no rush. Take your time. 
Enjoy the process even 

My gratitude to you for all your effort.


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## Pat "5mph" (29 Dec 2022)

@HobbesOnTour and all readers: I found out why the BBT is still out of sinc with the new posts added, even though the date of posting has been changed to match the date the event happened.
Now, Frank, I went back to the Journal, found day 879 is the first one in the wrong place.
Why are the posts still in the wrong sequence?
Because (example) if a ride was posted on the 28/12/22, and I change it to 13/02/22, there is already a ride posted by @HobbesOnTour on the 13/02/22, relating a ride that happened on the (example) 10/02/22.
How can I put these posts in order, then?
I need to change the time of posting too!
Frank, because of the multi posts days (need to check the time of each to keep the sequence), and because I am not off work for the hols, this will take me a few days, but it's going to happen  
I was so happy last night when it all clicked: of course a database cannot be wrong, the human input is incorrect!


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Dec 2022)

Quick reply:
@Pat "5mph" , if it makes more sense to remove the posts altogether and place them at the end we ( I mean you) can put in a link in the last correct post to the "new" ones at the end and then a link back.
The "flow" will hardly be interrupted and I'd imagine it would be a whole lot easier for you.

Many, many thanks for all your efforts on this.


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Dec 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Quick reply:
> @Pat "5mph" , if it makes more sense to remove the posts altogether and place them at the end we ( I mean you) can put in a link in the last correct post to the "new" ones at the end and then a link back.
> The "flow" will hardly be interrupted and I'd imagine it would be a whole lot easier for you.
> 
> Many, many thanks for all your efforts on this.


Nay, I have started now, I'm gonna finish the job  
Another couple of days and it will be done, I forgot I volunteered to do some computer work for the local food bank too


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> Another couple of days and it will be done


Like I keep saying there's no rush .. 

And thank you!


Pat 5mph said:


> I volunteered to do some computer work for the local food bank too


If it involves databases you'll blow them away with your expertise!


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Dec 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> If it involves databases


It does, but only to input data


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Dec 2022)

@HobbesOnTour all done!
In Chronological Order  
Question: where do you want to place post "Some odds 'n ends", this post is currently dated 16th of February.
Let me know if you want it moved to another position.


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2022)

Pat 5mph said:


> @HobbesOnTour all done!


Thank you!

Pat, since before I started this trip you have been beyond helpful to me and this is just another example of you going above and beyond.

They say that it takes a village to raise a child and I have been so fortunate to have a virtual village help me "raise" this adventure.
and record it here.

My sincere, genuine thanks to you for this. I'm sure it was a pain in the proverbial but I hope that you've at least gained some new experience from it.




Pat 5mph said:


> Question: where do you want to place post "Some odds 'n ends"



I couldn't give a damn! They're odds'n'ends; they can go anywhere!

For the rest of you the first new post is here

However, you may want to start a couple of days before to get in the right frame of mind. To refresh memories, I was heading south (again) towards Pasto and had the option of taking the "old" Pan American as opposed to retracing my tracks on the "new" Pan American. I had been feeling quite bleh and demotivated. 

For anyone looking at Strava I won't be going back in and adding any missing pictures at this stage but here's an album (almost 800 photos!!) of the Old Pan American route.

And for the season that's in it......
Here's a Youtube Video that features some of the "old" Pan American covered in the "lost" posts and..... as a special treat the Trampoline done in reverse! There's a feel of the real Colombia coming through the video. Watch out for the Chicken bus and how its loaded, the amazing scenery and try to ignore the fact that they did the Trampoline in a single day (or so it seems!) making me look like a lazy fecker! And if you look closely you'll see some of the amazing bright flora growing on the cliffs as they do the Trampoline.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxCiMjl975k&list=WL&index=11


I'm slowly working my way through the whole thing (of course, I have a hell of a lot more photos to browse on another tab ) and I am loving it! A little disappointed with the quality of some of the photos but really enjoying the larger size. The typos annoy me and I think it took me a while to get into a groove but I'm pretty proud of myself.

Again, my sincere gratitude to @Pat "5mph" for making this complete.

Happy New Year to you all and hope all your dreams come true in 2023.

From a bike adventuring point of view, remember the mural on the Alto de Letras - a dream changes nothing, a decision changes everything!

Hasta Luego


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## Pat "5mph" (31 Dec 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> My sincere, genuine thanks to you for this. I'm sure it was a pain in the proverbial but I hope that you've at least gained some new experience from it.


Don't mention it: you can buy me a nice meal when I come visit you  
Yes it was a wee bit, and yes I have learned something new!
Happy new year to you and all readers! 🍾🥂


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2023)

Pat 5mph said:


> you can buy me a nice meal when I come visit you


But of course!! 
Does this mean you're back on two wheels and the kranky knee is left behind in 2022?


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## netman (1 Jan 2023)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A little disappointed with the quality of some of the photos but really enjoying the larger size



I'm quite experienced and relatively competent at post-processing digital photos - happy to take a look at some of the more important ones you're disappointed with - it's very likely we could improve them somewhat! DM me if needed!


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## Pat "5mph" (1 Jan 2023)

HobbesOnTour said:


> But of course!!
> Does this mean you're back on two wheels and the kranky knee is left behind in 2022?


I've been back on 2 wheels since summer 2021, but I don't think I'm fit enough to cycle to Spain


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2023)

netman said:


> it's very likely we could improve them somewhat!


Not for the first time you're being very kind to me! As if the map isn't enough! 
Thank you. 

I may take you up on the offer but not right now. Some of the "zoom" shots I used are frankly, terrible, and I was surprised to see a few blurry photos that looked OK on the phone but not so good on a bigger screen. 
Perfectionism would dictate that I go back in and replace some of the photos (I have a whole lot more  ) but as a reflection of the reality of a long tour they can stay where they are. (And I'm scared to ask @Pat "5mph" to do anymore 




Pat 5mph said:


> I've been back on 2 wheels since summer 2021


Yay! 


Pat 5mph said:


> I don't think I'm fit enough to cycle to Spain


Trust me - cycling _to_ Spain is the easy part..... Cycling _in_ Spain is a whole other thing!


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## cwskas (4 Jan 2023)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Some of the "zoom" shots I used are frankly, terrible, and I was surprised to see a few blurry photos that looked OK on the phone but not so good on a bigger screen.



Whaaaat! I am sure you are the first to have ever had that problem! 

I now carry a lens cloth with me (unless I forgot) since I have many times gotten back to discover that all of that day's photos looked good to my eyes, but were in fact all substandard! Sometimes it is my glasses that need cleaning, sometimes the phone lenses!


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## Emanresu (5 Jan 2023)

Just spent the whole of the quiet time over Xmas reading about your journey - better than a box set. I've got it bookmarked for next Xmas so I get to read all 631 entries again. 

May the Touring Gods continue to provide you with adventure.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2023)

Welcome aboard! 
I do enjoy getting the random likes as someone works their way through .
I'm glad to note that you took your time and didn't race through too! 


Emanresu said:


> I've got it bookmarked for next Xmas so I get to read all 631 entries again.


Well, I'm working my way through it myself, nice and slow, feasting on the extra photos that I have. It's my first time seeing the pictures on a screen bigger than my phone. 
I am so glad that I did this. 
So many things are so clear, so vivid. México will always have a special place in my heart but reading back over Honduras? Wow! What a special place! 


Emanresu said:


> May the Touring Gods continue to provide you with adventure.


May they provide us all with adventure! 

Don't forget to check out the chat thread as well! 

And thank you for the kind words


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