# Fixie Project



## grayhamzyvicz (6 Mar 2012)

Hi All,

I've just posted in the welcome page.

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/hello-all.97177/

I am wanting to build a fixed gear bike, keeping it as cheap as possible, and (hopefully) doing it all myself.

Pic of the frame
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77667089@N05/6959962829/in/photostream

I've done a lot of research online, but I am puzzled about some things. Basically I am wanting to buy my parts on ebay to keep it cheapish. Although I don't want to buy anything if it won't fit.

Some question that spring off the top of my head.

The crankset - do I need to buy a certain kind, for example, would this fit?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Single-Sp...ikeparts_SR&hash=item3a70298ace#ht_5309wt_994

I have read online that if i buy a fixed rear wheel it might not fit the frame and that i might have to bend the rear forks a few mm to get it to fit. Is it possible to get a rear wheel that will fit the bike easily?

Is there any other problems that I might encounter when I am doing this? I'm sure I have more questions, and will think of some when I start working on it, which I will post when they spring to mind.

If anyone can give me some of their spare time to give me a hand it qould be greatly apreciated

Cheers

Graham


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## grayhamzyvicz (6 Mar 2012)

Header should be 'Fixed Gear' project. Apologies to all the people that hate the word Fixie!


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## colly (6 Mar 2012)

Fixie ....schmixie. We know what it's about.


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## colly (6 Mar 2012)

A couple of very useful sites that I was pointed to in this thread:
http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-project.92337/


http://www.velosolo.co.uk/

http://www.hubjub.co.uk/

I bought a bb, crankset, wheels, tyres, tubes and a sprocket or two for less that I was expecting to pay for the wheels alone from:
http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/.

Edit: and a chain.


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## Pennine-Paul (6 Mar 2012)

Most fixed wheels have a 120 mm hub and most old frames with horizontal dropouts are 126mm
I find if you fit a slim nut on either side of the axle it takes the spacing out to the right size

That chainset looks fine,The important thing to get right is your chainline,if it's out of line
and your spinning like crazy down hill it can throw the chain.

Make sure you dont fit a 3/32 chain if your chainring or sprockets are 1/8

I started out with an old Raleigh scorpio and had no great problems building it up


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## grayhamzyvicz (6 Mar 2012)

Excellent thank you both.

Had a quick glance at your thread. Looks very useful, I'll give it a full read tomorrow, when I'm in work  . I jumped to near the end to have a look at your bike and it's looking very nice. I'm going to go for a subtle look myself.

I like the look of singlespeed components. I was thinking if my bike could cost sub £200 to get all the parts then I'd be very happy, so £160 for a deluxe package is very tempting.

I think I'll just get on and choose a package tomorrow and buy it, then deal with problems if and when they occur, with your help.

If getting the chainline is the most important part, then I think I'd be happy taking my bike to the LBS to make sure it is perfect.


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## Pennine-Paul (6 Mar 2012)

It's usually a matter of moving the chainring closer to the frame and fitting a spacer behind the sprocket,
Most lbs dont have much experience in Fixed wheel bikes from what i've found,however if you have a good
one by all means use them.

If you get stuck just ask


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## colly (6 Mar 2012)

grayhamzyvicz said:


> Excellent thank you both.
> 
> Had a quick glance at your thread. Looks very useful, I'll give it a full read tomorrow, when I'm in work  . I jumped to near the end to have a look at your bike and it's looking very nice. I'm going to go for a subtle look myself.
> 
> ...


 
I gave Matt a call at Singlespeed to ask about the chainline. He was very helpful. I decided on the bb he supplied because he said it would offer a chainline of 42mm (I think) and with the rear wheel supplied to match my frame spacing between the dropouts it also give a line of 42mm.
It slipped in and fitted perfectly....................


Er? I could have phrased that more delicately.


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## Smurfy (6 Mar 2012)

grayhamzyvicz said:


> Header should be 'Fixed Gear' project. Apologies to all the people that hate the word Fixie!


 
We're gonna have to start a 'swear' box for people who use the word fix*e on here 

Back on topic. There's an awful lot of useful information on fixed wheel bikes (and just about everything cycling) on the Sheldon Brown website:

Fixed gear bikes (watch out for the finger amputation picture!): http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html
Hub spacing: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
Chainline (V. important for fixed wheel): http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
Bottom bracket sizing (to help get the chainline correct): http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html


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## Smurfy (6 Mar 2012)

colly said:


> I bought a bb, crankset, wheels, tyres, tubes and a sprocket or two for less that I was expecting to pay for the wheels alone from:
> http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/.


 
Looks like you got a good deal!


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## Rahul Sapariya (7 Mar 2012)

Check your double chainset on it and see if both chainrings are bolted on. If so then your chainset will be fine, just take out the smaller chainring.

The only issues you will find is lining up the rear fixed sprocket and the front chainring. Sometimes you can add a spacer onto the back to help but really it all boils down to the bottom bracket in my opinion. I'm actually working on a fixed project of my own at the workshop. If you need any advice, do ask.

Oh and regards to the rear dropout, if you have the wheel that went on it originally, measure the cone nuts from one side to the other, this is going to be what your frame is made for. If you don't have the rear wheel, then just measure the dropouts from the inside of each one from one side to the other. You can get away with bending the chainstays out by about 5-6mm while getting the wheel into the dropouts, but after that, it will be an issue.

Long story short, I'd do the measurements first, so the dropouts, bottom bracket, make sure your double can be turned into a single and that single chainring is bolted on and that your chainline is lined up alright (you can get away with 2-3mm but if it is out by like 1cm then it is definitely off and needs sorting tbh.

The reason I say that you need your single chainring to be bolted onto the crankarm is because I have heard of people who have single chainsets where the chainring is pressed on and that they have become loose over time (what that time frame is, I don't know) so it's best to plan for the future and make sure these problems don't arise.

Hope this helps you out


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## Rahul Sapariya (7 Mar 2012)

Just had a look at the ebay posting of the chainset, that looks good for the job.


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## grayhamzyvicz (7 Mar 2012)

> I gave Matt a call at Singlespeed to ask about the chainline. He was very helpful. I decided on the bb he supplied because he said it would offer a chainline of 42mm (I think) and with the rear wheel supplied to match my frame spacing between the dropouts it also give a line of 42mm.


Is there any way of checking to see what chainline the current bb on the bike would give?



> Back on topic. There's an awful lot of useful information on fixed wheel bikes (and just about everything cycling) on the Sheldon Brown website:


I'll have a look at lunch time!



> Check your double chainset on it and see if both chainrings are bolted on. If so then your chainset will be fine, just take out the smaller chainring.


I'll check this out tonight. I'd like to use as many original parts from the old bike as possible.



> Oh and regards to the rear dropout, if you have the wheel that went on it originally, measure the cone nuts from one side to the other, this is going to be what your frame is made for. If you don't have the rear wheel, then just measure the dropouts from the inside of each one from one side to the other. You can get away with bending the chainstays out by about 5-6mm while getting the wheel into the dropouts, but after that, it will be an issue.


I measured between the inside of the dropouts and it was 125mm



> The only issues you will find is lining up the rear fixed sprocket and the front chainring. Sometimes you can add a spacer onto the back to help but really it all boils down to the bottom bracket in my opinion. I'm actually working on a fixed project of my own at the workshop. If you need any advice, do ask.


So, if i get a wheel that gives me a chainline of XXmm, and the bb does not offer the same chainline (does the chainset play a major part in altering the chainline?), the easiest way to rectify the problem would be buying a bb that gives me the same chainline?

Feel as if I've learned so much already and I haven't done anything to the bike other than remove the old brakes etc. To be honest I didn't even know what a bb, dropout, chainset etc were. But this is why it'll be such a great sense of ahievement when I finally build this thing. (although I probably will get the LBS to give it a once over before riding it, for the safety of me, and others!)


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## Smurfy (7 Mar 2012)

grayhamzyvicz said:


> Stuff


 
Sheldon shows you how to make the necessary measurements. I don't recommend adjusting the chainline using spacers at the sprocket, you might not be able to get a lock-ring on*. That leaves you with BB size and spacers at the chainring to adjust chainline. You could also move spacers from one side to the other on the hub spindle, but you might need to re-dish the wheel to do that.

* Whether you need a lock-ring is an area of dispute


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## Smurfy (7 Mar 2012)

Are there any Mods reading this thread? Wouldn't it be a good idea to have a Sticky Thread along the lines of 'How to turn your ebay bargain into a Fix*e Fixed wheel bike'?


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## grayhamzyvicz (7 Mar 2012)

i thought i'd give you an update. i spoke to Matt from http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk and he has been very helpful. my understanding of bike basics must have increased 10 fold in the last day

i'm going down the same route as colly to simplify things, buying all from Matt. i could orobably save a few £ here and there looking about on ebay, but i'd rather be sure everything will work together, and Matt's advice has been spot on so I'm wanting to give him my custom.

So i should have the necessary parts to build next week. This weekend i'll remove all the paint from the frame, then consider which colour i want it and probably start preparing it.

next question is, can someone point me in the direction of a good step by step guide of repainting, from removal to finishing the job properly? i want to know things like sanding or paint stripper, and what types of primer/paint to use? i had a look on sheldon but couldnt seem to see anything.


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## colly (7 Mar 2012)

grayhamzyvicz said:


> i thought i'd give you an update. i spoke to Matt from http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk and he has been very helpful. my understanding of bike basics must have increased 10 fold in the last day
> 
> i'm going down the same route as colly to simplify things, buying all from Matt. i could orobably save a few £ here and there looking about on ebay, but i'd rather be sure everything will work together, and Matt's advice has been spot on so I'm wanting to give him my custom.
> 
> ...


 
I stripped my frame off using Nitromoors Paint and Varnish stripper. It is thinner than the 'paint only' stuff and it doesn't 'cling' as well but it works very fast.Worked it in and rubbed off the old paint with wire wool. Messy!
I don't know if your budget would run to getting it powder coated but assuming you can find a good place near you it is well worth doing. I changed tack and decided to get it done rather than paint it myself.
It cost me £30 all in. In fact if I had gone to the trouble of priming, undercoating, painting and laqcuering the frame myself it would have cost much more. I didn't really need to strip it because they shot blasted it anyway.
The finish was great and it is as tough as old boots too.


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## Rahul Sapariya (8 Mar 2012)

Well with a chainset where the chainring is bolted on, you can always move the chainring from the inner side to the outer side. All you have to do is work out if the chainset is out or too close to the frame (so check the chainline and see if the chainset is in which is causing the non-straight chain line) or out. If it is out, try moving the chainring to the other side of the crank arm. If that isn't enough, you can try changing the bottom bracket to a smaller one...judge it and try to work out what length you might need. If you find that a smaller bottom bracket sorts out the chainline but your chainset is too close to or rubbing on the chainstays, then you'd have to do something about the back wheel. I'd adjust the length of the cone nuts on the hub on the back wheel then. You can change the length of the spacers involved in the rear hub. But you want to try to keep the same length from one side of the hub (including cone nuts) to the other. So you have 125mm between dropouts and the hub on the rear wheel (including cone nuts) has the same. So you just want the wheel to sit in the dropouts but slightly more to the right (this would help to sort out the chainline, if the freewheel is not to the right enough). There is always more than one option when sorting out the chainline so don't worry about that.


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## Ashtrayhead (9 Mar 2012)

YellowTim said:


> Are there any Mods reading this thread? Wouldn't it be a good idea to have a Sticky Thread along the lines of 'How to turn your ebay bargain into a Fix*e Fixed wheel _*bike *_bicycle_'_?


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## Cyclopathic (10 Mar 2012)

I have recently aquired a fixie that I think would make an exceelent project to restore it into a proper touring bike. Any tips?


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## Pennine-Paul (10 Mar 2012)

yeah, price up a new pair of derailleurs ,new chainset and shifters

and all the hassle that goes with em and come to your senses


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## Rahul Sapariya (10 Mar 2012)

Cyclopathic said:


> I have recently aquired a fixie that I think would make an exceelent project to restore it into a proper touring bike. Any tips?


 
What sort of frame is it? Is the frame made for a fixed gear or a conversion to a fixed that you want to turn back into a touring bike?


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## colly (10 Mar 2012)

Rahul Sapariya said:


> What sort of frame is it? Is the frame made for a fixed gear or a conversion to a fixed that you want to turn back into a touring bike?


 
I think it was a tongue in cheek post.


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## Rahul Sapariya (11 Mar 2012)

colly said:


> I think it was a tongue in cheek post.


 
Lol, I am stupid when it's the weekend


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## Cyclopathic (17 Mar 2012)

Rahul Sapariya said:


> What sort of frame is it? Is the frame made for a fixed gear or a conversion to a fixed that you want to turn back into a touring bike?


 Ahh bless you for answeing that seriously. I have to admit though I was teasing just a little bit and in good humour. I have never even ridden a "fixie" so from that uninformed position I feel completely justified in scoffing at things I don't understand.
I suppose one of the ideas behing the fixie is that less is in fact more. I find that this is defimitely the case when looking at the prices being charged by bike dealers who have specialised in fixed gear bikes and accesories. I would have expected to be able to find new entry level fixies for less than new entry level anything else but this doesn't seem to be the case. But please don't take offense at my jibes. I am only pulling your leg, which of course is something you will be used to if you have had to go down any steep hills without the ability to freewheel.


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## colly (17 Mar 2012)

Cyclopathic said:


> if you have had to go down any steep hills without the ability to freewheel.


 
Sir ! You are not wrong.


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## Rahul Sapariya (17 Mar 2012)

Cyclopathic said:


> Ahh bless you for answeing that seriously. I have to admit though I was teasing just a little bit and in good humour. I have never even ridden a "fixie" so from that uninformed position I feel completely justified in scoffing at things I don't understand.
> I suppose one of the ideas behing the fixie is that less is in fact more. I find that this is defimitely the case when looking at the prices being charged by bike dealers who have specialised in fixed gear bikes and accesories. I would have expected to be able to find new entry level fixies for less than new entry level anything else but this doesn't seem to be the case. But please don't take offense at my jibes. I am only pulling your leg, which of course is something you will be used to if you have had to go down any steep hills without the ability to freewheel.


 
I believe you can just take your feet off the pedals and rest them on the down tube, problem solved on the freewheel aspect, or just make sure you have some pedals. I ride my fixed everywhere. I will conquer Cornwall on my fixed one day. I did Le-Jog on my fixed, except it was on freewheel mode. I think the most expensive part of a fixed gear is the back wheel, and bike shops like uniformity so you might as well have a matching front wheel as well. Most of the cost is on the wheels, possibly the chainset as well but mainly the wheels. I wish you could buy some decent wheels that have a flip flop hub but people know they are in fashion right now and people need them so wholesale places sell them for stupid prices, and the bike shops need to add a small mark-up on them to actually create some sort of profit, and by the time the customer gets it, you are looking at £300 plus. I'd just use used parts to lower the price considerably.


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## Cyclopathic (18 Mar 2012)

Rahul Sapariya said:


> I believe you can just take your feet off the pedals and rest them on the down tube, problem solved on the freewheel aspect, or just make sure you have some pedals. I ride my fixed everywhere. I will conquer Cornwall on my fixed one day. I did Le-Jog on my fixed, except it was on freewheel mode. I think the most expensive part of a fixed gear is the back wheel, and bike shops like uniformity so you might as well have a matching front wheel as well. Most of the cost is on the wheels, possibly the chainset as well but mainly the wheels. I wish you could buy some decent wheels that have a flip flop hub but people know they are in fashion right now and people need them so wholesale places sell them for stupid prices, and the bike shops need to add a small mark-up on them to actually create some sort of profit, and by the time the customer gets it, you are looking at £300 plus. I'd just use used parts to lower the price considerably.


 
Is there any snobbery going on between those who stick religiously to fixed and those who will just use the freewheel option? Is it seen as less hardcore or less authentic to just use the freewheel but have all the trappings that go with the fixy style. What I'm saying really is IS IT CHEATING?
Much respect for doing the le-jog, especially with just the one gear. Fixed or not that's quite an achievement.
Do they really charge £300 for a flip flop wheel? If so then that is outrageous and it would be cheaper by far to buy two seperate wheels unless they are charging way over the odds for an ordinary fixed wheel as well. It does prove the point that less is more. A lot more.


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## Rahul Sapariya (18 Mar 2012)

If you have a fixed gear with a flip-flop, it would be stupid not to use the fixed side atleast a bit of the time, because otherwise it is just wasted money and I guess added weight (by like 50g lol). There shouldn't be any bike snobbery when it comes to bikes. I personally hate campagnolo bits with a passion because nothing can justify the price.

When I stated that £300 price, I meant for the entire bike, not the wheel. I can imagine someone making a wheel with a flip-flop hub and DT Swiss spokes and what not but again, I'm not a big fan of stupidly priced bike components unless it is the only option. For me, buying expensive components for a bike and telling people is the very definition of bike snobbery.


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## YahudaMoon (18 Mar 2012)

Yeah but expensive bike components have been made with love with top secret recipes and the best engineers who have contact with with unicorns and faries

Your bike will have been made with hate by poor starving children and the bike will tell you this every time you ride it


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## Smurfy (18 Mar 2012)

Oh dear, I fear my bike was made entirely with hate!

I had a brief glimmer of hope when I remembered that it has Sapim spokes. But alas, it appears that Sapim are made in Belgium, not Italy!


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## Rahul Sapariya (18 Mar 2012)

YahudaMoon said:


> Yeah but expensive bike components have been made with love with top secret recipes and the best engineers who have contact with with unicorns and faries
> 
> Your bike will have been made with hate by poor starving children and the bike will tell you this every time you ride it


 
I just think that sometimes things are over-rated. Like how people go on and on about 'park tools' tools. I've found cheaper equivalents that work better at times. Park tools are extortion imo. It is the same with campagnolo. I make bikes and fix bikes for a living and I generally take my time making bikes, using parts that work. Campagnolo are good, really good but the prices they charge for the components is ridiculous. Fair enough if the parts were twice as good as something else and twice as expensive, but they aren't twice as good, they are slightly lighter and feel a bit more smoother. And then you get people who talk about wheels and stuff, saying that (insert really good wheel here) is really good and it reduces rolling resistance by 2% and the rim allows for 4% better braking. For me, There are 3 types of wheels, a cheapy wheel that works but the performance is a bit rubbish at times, then you have the decent wheels which work and performance is definitely good, and then you have the top end of stuff where there is only a slight improvement on a few things but they charge stupid prices. My problem for the stupidly priced things is that you get people who buy these things and then they talk about it with such love, almost like they look down on other people. Fair enough if they race for a living or ride their bike often but it is those people who look down on others for not wanting to spend money on items like that. Basically, my whole point is 'if it works, why replace it then?' I don't like STI shifters or the campagnolo equivalent, why people continue to tell me to get that is beyond me. Why people tell me I should go for clipless pedals when I prefer toe straps because there aren't any cool looking shoes for spds, is beyond me. Why people tell me I should stop riding a fixed gear when those people, in a race, I still beat them on my fixed gear...and I don't brag about the parts on my bike, I am a cyclist and a bike mechanic, I have a hatred for expensive things because then cycling creates a divide, whereas I see cycling as something that is affordable for everyone to give it a try.

That's my 2 pence (I'm British, not American so it is 2 pence)


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## colly (18 Mar 2012)

You have a point there Rahul. 

Better equipment in all kinds of sports will maybe give you an edge if you are performing. But, and it is a big but, if you personally don't have the ABILITY to make use of that edge then it might well be a waste of money.
There is nothing wrong with buying the best bike, golf clubs, tennis racquet, or whatever, if that is what you want to do and can afford it. It is, after all, very nice to own and use things that are superbly made and function sublimely.
But if you are buying the best just to brag about it and make yourself 'look good' then I personally can't see the point.

I would however really love a hand made stainless frame.


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## Rahul Sapariya (18 Mar 2012)

colly said:


> You have a point there Rahul.
> 
> Better equipment in all kinds of sports will maybe give you an edge if you are performing. But, and it is a big but, if you personally don't have the ABILITY to make use of that edge then it might well be a waste of money.
> There is nothing wrong with buying the best bike, golf clubs, tennis racquet, or whatever, if that is what you want to do and can afford it. It is, after all, very nice to own and use things that are superbly made and function sublimely.
> ...


 
It's always nice to have a good quality item but I just think at a certain point, it just becomes stupid. Of course everyone can buy what they want, just don't brag about it to me  I remember last year when I was looking at a bike magazine and there was this saddle, possibly a san marco, and apparently it gives you 4% more in performance...price? £300. And I remember one of my friends saying he was going to buy it. His bike always gets new groupsets and stuff. Every model, probably ends up on his bike. And he always brag! God how I want to just screw his screws up in his clips up tight...bike justice


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## Cyclopathic (19 Mar 2012)

Rahul Sapariya said:


> It's always nice to have a good quality item but I just think at a certain point, it just becomes stupid. Of course everyone can buy what they want, just don't brag about it to me  I remember last year when I was looking at a bike magazine and there was this saddle, possibly a san marco, and apparently it gives you 4% more in performance...price? £300. And I remember one of my friends saying he was going to buy it. His bike always gets new groupsets and stuff. Every model, probably ends up on his bike. And he always brag! God how I want to just screw his screws up in his clips up tight...bike justice


 I'm with you on all of that. There is definitely a point at which spending twice as much on an item will not make it twice as good and things that encourage elitism can be discouraging to others who might be put off cycling because they feel it is all like that. Having said that though I have just bought some valve dust caps made from the same material that is used to protect the space shuttle from metoir strikes in space. The dust caps have been hand crafted by Mr Campagnolo himself who carved them from a solid block of the expensivisium-wieghsnothingium taking four years to complete the task. After that they were polished with the preserved tears of Eddy Merckx to make them aerodynamic and I can assur you it is not just a gimmick they really do work as when I put them on my raleigh 20 I immediately felt far more superiour to anybody else on any other bike who does not have such good valve dust covers.


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## Pennine-Paul (19 Mar 2012)

> I have just bought some valve dust caps made from the same material that is used to protect the space shuttle from metoir strikes in space. The dust caps have been hand crafted by Mr Campagnolo himself who carved them from a solid block of the expensivisium-wieghsnothingium taking four years to complete the task. After that they were polished with the preserved tears of Eddy Merckx to make them aerodynamic and I can assur you it is not just a gimmick they really do work as when I put them on my raleigh 20 I immediately felt far more superiour to anybody else on any other bike who does not have such good valve dust covers.


 
Mine are better than that,they're made from invisibleium,
They weigh nothing


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## Cyclopathic (19 Mar 2012)

Pennine-Paul said:


> Mine are better than that,they're made from invisibleium,
> They weigh nothing


 
Post a picture of them and if I like the look of them I'll buy them off you for an amount of money that lets everybody know that I will not compromise on quality. I love invisibilium, I hear it's the new black.


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## Pennine-Paul (20 Mar 2012)

I would but i took them off to clean them and i can't find them any where


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## grayhamzyvicz (21 Mar 2012)

I'm back, had a couple of really long weeks in work recently so I haven't really been able to do anything with the bike, but parts have started to come in from the internet orders, handlebar tape etc etc.

I got the bike back from being powder coated and it looks superb (in my opinion anyway). I got it painted a chocolate brown colour, and I will have white seats and a red seat/handlebar tape.

Might not be to some peoples liking but I think it'll look good. Each to their own and all that! 

I've got a flip flop hub on the rear wheel, but for now I didn't even choose to get the freewheel on one side. I'm stuck with fixed, although I always know it can be included for a reasonable price at a later date. My main reason for building this is to cycle to the golf course or gym, or when I go out at weekends with my daughter. All these cycles will be completely flat travel, so I thought I'd add a bit more 'excitement' with the fixed gear, and extra challenge. If I hate it though I will convert to freewheel, but I'm pretty sure I'll love it. I'll probably give my daughter a laugh as well when she sees her dad unable to control his bike!

So far my costs are
£136 for the bb, chainset, wheels, sprocket and chain
£60 to powder coat the frame and forks
£35 for a spanner (32mm) to attach the forks to the frame again, handelbar tape, a brake cable, and a saddle
I'll probably get the bb fitted at the lbs for about £15ish so I'm hoping all in it'll cost less than £250. I think it'll be worth it. I feel attached to it already!

I have one small question I have just put on the wheels to the frame, the rear slotted in nicely, but the front 'screws' dont seem to fit into the slots on the forks (if there is a technical name i'm sure i'm about to find out!) it is a minute difference though. Is there any recommended way i should squeeze them in? Should I just tap it with a hammer? Or file the frame a bit (i know it has just been powder coated but i'm sure the wheels fitted before i sent it away so it could be the extra layer of 'paint' preventing it from slotting in. I'd like to get them in whilst removing as little of the powder coating as possible. If the powder coating is removed slightly from inside the slots I could just get touch up paint from Halfords?

God I hope this make sense


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## Smurfy (22 Mar 2012)

grayhamzyvicz said:


> I have one small question I have just put on the wheels to the frame, the rear slotted in nicely, but the front 'screws' dont seem to fit into the slots on the forks (if there is a technical name i'm sure i'm about to find out!) it is a minute difference though. Is there any recommended way i should squeeze them in? Should I just tap it with a hammer? Or file the frame a bit (i know it has just been powder coated but i'm sure the wheels fitted before i sent it away so it could be the extra layer of 'paint' preventing it from slotting in. I'd like to get them in whilst removing as little of the powder coating as possible. If the powder coating is removed slightly from inside the slots I could just get touch up paint from Halfords?


 
When spindles, nuts and q-r skewers meet paint, there is only ever one winner! If you're sure the wheels fitted before spraying, just remove paint from the appropriate place. Who's going to see that the places where the spindles, nuts and q/r skewers touch doesn't have any paint underneath?

The only alternative is chrome plating, but that's not a very nice thing to do to a bicycle frame, and is very expensive.


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## grayhamzyvicz (22 Mar 2012)

Ok i'll try tapping it with a hammer and if not I'll file the paint off until the wheel fits.

Next problem! I fitted the bottom bracket today:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77667089@N05/6859817628/

and placed the rear wheel/sprocket in their place
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77667089@N05/6859818998/

The put the chainset where i believe it should be (i haven't screwed it in yet)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77667089@N05/7005937889/

It seems to stick out a small bit as you can see, but that is as far as i can push it in (using my hands only)

But there is no way the chainline is straight
http://www.flickr.com/photos/77667089@N05/6859821268/

It's not even close, i'd say about 10mm out.

Have i installed something wrong, or do i need to make adjustments to get them to align. Or is it not possible to get them to align?

I'd say it is a good centimetre out, although if someone could tell me how to do accurate measurements, i'd clarify how much it is out.

Thanks again in advance


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## YahudaMoon (22 Mar 2012)

Is that a real track chainset ?

If it aint a real track chainset you can put the chain ring on wrong I believe ?

In other words put the chain ring on the inside of the spider.

Also when you screw the spider on this will take it in a bit more.


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## YahudaMoon (22 Mar 2012)

I can see from the pic. It ain't a track chainset / crank / spider.


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## colly (22 Mar 2012)

I think the bb for a track/fixed set up is narrower than a road bb.

On my recent conversion the centre line of the bb shell to the centre line of the chain ring was 42mm and the centre of the rear hub to the centre of the rear sprocket was also 42mm.

42mm being the 'chain line'' and it was exact.


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## jim55 (22 Mar 2012)

you need a spacer or two o n the rear hub as well ,apart from the crankset seemingly not being suitable the fixed cog looks to close to the spokes,on my fixed it has a good cm between the spokes and the inner run of the chain ,and the crank defo doesnt look right
iv just checked mine and the teeth of the ring on the crank are a lot closer to the chainstay ,id say you have two things wrong ,crank is totally wrong ,and spacers on the hub


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## Pennine-Paul (22 Mar 2012)

On my conversion I use a 113 mm bb,
put the chainring on the inside of the spider,
this leaves me a gap of 5mm between the chainstays and the chainring
The gap on yours looks way to big,if I look vertically downwards at my chainring
the back of the bolt is lined up with the edge of the bb,looks like yours is a good 6-7mm out
You may need a narrower bb


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## grayhamzyvicz (22 Mar 2012)

So if I had a narrower bb, actually tightened the chainset to the bb moving it in a little, and maybe got a spacer or 2 for the rear hub it should be ok??


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## colly (22 Mar 2012)

grayhamzyvicz said:


> So if I had a narrower bb, actually tightened the chainset to the bb moving it in a little, and maybe got a spacer or 2 for the rear hub it should be ok??


Maybe. I think it will depend on your set-up. I'm told the rear sprocket and chainring on the crank MUST align to within a millimeter or so, preferably, align exactly.

If the chain isn't straight, and properly tensioned, there is a danger of it coming off and that would be dangerous.


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## grayhamzyvicz (22 Mar 2012)

another question.

on this pic http://www.flickr.com/photos/77667089@N05/6859817628/

you see the bb sticks out a mm or so from the frame?

Well it doesnt do that at the other side.

The bottom bracket had

<-----L R----> on it so obviously i've put the 'R' at the side of the chainset, but this side seems to stick out 1mm or so more than the other side. Surely I've put it in the right way! But why can't I put it in the other way, would it do something?? if i could put it in that way, it'd bring the chainset in a bit more

Does that make sense?


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## YahudaMoon (22 Mar 2012)

Yeah BB is correct

(Pending you got the right length)

Go with my original post up thread , suck it and see !


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## grayhamzyvicz (22 Mar 2012)

Ok i'll try that. I'm getting bb that is a couple of mm less so hopefully that'll make a difference. I'll post back when i get back in the house and try some of your recommendations.

Cheers


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