# Chain lube of choice?



## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

Hi

Would like to hear opinions and/or suggestions as to your chain lube of choice, and why?

Must admit I'm a bit confused.....there being so many on the market.....dry, wet, PTFE.

Appreciate advice.


Thanks


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## Heltor Chasca (30 Nov 2018)

Snake oil.


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## DCLane (30 Nov 2018)

Muc-off Ceramic wet lube - most of the time
Race oil - on the race bikes


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## Joffey (30 Nov 2018)

Wend Wax - best thing I've ever used - my drive train is so quiet now. It lasts a good while and keeps the chain nice and clean. Oh, it smells lovely too and comes in lots of pretty colours.


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## winjim (30 Nov 2018)

The short answer is that dry lube is rubbish, any light oil is fine, wet chain lube comes in handy size bottles and that regular wiping clean and relubing is beneficial.

But... the targeted ads seem to suggest something else:


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

Confession......Never heard of it, but just looked it up and a review in October was really impressive. 

Will definitely look into this stuff......thanks for that Joffey.

Now what colour should I go with.......decisions, decisions.


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## betty swollocks (30 Nov 2018)

This is what I use.
You get a very quiet and smooth-runnung chain. It lasts ages and keeps the chain nice and clean.


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## Drago (30 Nov 2018)

Gear oil applied sparingly with a syringe. It's a high pressure oil, so maintains a film even under, erm, high pressure between moving surfaces. 

It's works as well as anything else I've tried, and I was given 5 gallons of the stuff some years back - good reasons to use it! It smells a bit, but if you're not into chain sniffing that's not a problem.

I'm sure liquid chain lube, or any light oil performs similarly. No matter what lube I use I grind my chains to .75 in about 1500 miles.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

DCLane said:


> Muc-off Ceramic wet lube - most of the time
> Race oil - on the race bikes


Cheers for the recommendation. Just wondering what advantage, if any, wet lube has over dry lube......probably something highly technical that I wouldn't understand anyway......or maybe its as simple as 'one's wet, one isn't'.


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## Alan O (30 Nov 2018)

Plain old TF2 Cycle Oil. When the chain's dirty, I clean the muck off with a rag and re-lube, and it carries on working just fine. I'm just about to replace a chain after 2,000 miles (just reaching 0.75% "stretch"), and that's one that's seen a lot of off-road with mud and sand.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

betty swollocks said:


> This is what I use.
> You get a very quiet and smooth-runnung chain. It lasts ages and keeps the chain nice and clean.


Thanks for the link. Another one I've not heard of before.....beginning to feel like I've missed out on so much in life....!

Not sure if we could even get this here in Oz....but I'll take a look anyway and see what the reviews say about it.

Thanks again.


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## Drago (30 Nov 2018)

MilkRace said:


> Cheers for the recommendation. Just wondering what advantage, if any, wet lube has over dry lube......probably something highly technical that I wouldn't understand anyway......or maybe its as simple as 'one's wet, one isn't'.



Think of it this way - how many applications where lubes is critical (car engines, liquid fuelled rocket motor turbopumps, jet engines, etc) get smeared in dry lube?


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## Nebulous (30 Nov 2018)

I use Halfords bike lube with teflon. I've no idea how good or otherwise it is, but what I really like is the tight jet you get from the pump. Ideal for aiming precisely where you need it, on the pivots of the calipers, rather than the pads, for instance. Despite using it very regularly, every week on my work bike, almost every time they are out on my other two bikes, a can lasts me a long time - certainly over a year.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

Drago said:


> Think of it this way - how many applications where lubes is critical (car engines, liquid fuelled rocket motor turbopumps, jet engines, etc) get smeared in dry lube?


Would have to say.....I have no idea.....in answer to your question that is, however it does beg the question as to why they would make a dry lube in the first place if it didn't actually do the job?

I think I'm with you though in that it does seem strange not to have an 'oil' (if that's what it is) that isn't....well....oily...!


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## Salty seadog (30 Nov 2018)

Dry lube tends to be of the waxy nature And is a terrible lube as noted before. It only lubes until it gets squeezed from the moving parts by pressure and because of its non liquid state cannot flow back in when the pressure is relieved. Your drive train will soon start making a noise. 

Wet lube all year round.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

Salty seadog said:


> Dry lube tends to be of the waxy nature And is a terrible lube as noted before. It only lubes until it gets squeezed from the moving parts by pressure and because of its non liquid state cannot flow back in when the pressure is relieved. Your drive train will soon start making a noise.
> 
> Wet lube all year round.


I was thinking much the same but I'm sure someone will leap to the defence of dry lube....after all there must be a reason why it was developed in the first place...I assume?


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## Alan O (30 Nov 2018)

MilkRace said:


> Would have to say.....I have no idea.....in answer to your question that is, however it does beg the question as to why they would make a dry lube in the first place if it didn't actually do the job?


My usual answer to similar questions - marketing.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

Alan O said:


> My usual answer to similar questions - marketing.


Probably spot on....!


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## I like Skol (30 Nov 2018)

Alan O said:


> Plain old TF2 Cycle Oil.


TF2 for me too. Which reminds me, I need to buy some more as I have recently dribbled the last of a 1ltr bottle, bought a fair few years ago, into the smaller squeezy nozzle bottle I use for applying it.
I have covered many, many thousands of miles on different bikes (MTB/hybrid commuter/best road bike) in all conditions and always found this oil does the job. Also pretty cheap when bought 1ltr at a time - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/weldtite-tf2-performance-oil

Bottle has changed a bit since I last bought some  

It doesn't have an offensive smell?


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## EltonFrog (30 Nov 2018)

3 in One. Sorted. Bosh. Tuesday.







Good enough for my granddad, good enough for me.


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## Spiderweb (30 Nov 2018)

Best I've used.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

CarlP said:


> 3 in One. Sorted. Bosh. Tuesday.
> 
> View attachment 440881
> 
> ...


Wow......do they still make this stuff?

Haven't seen this since I was knee high to a grasshopper....but as you say.....it worked back then so why not now?


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## EltonFrog (30 Nov 2018)

MilkRace said:


> Wow......do they still make this stuff?
> 
> Haven't seen this since I was knee high to a grasshopper....but as you say.....it worked back then so why not now?



https://3-in-one.co.uk/ I think it's made by the same company that own WD40.

I do have other brands in the Bicycle Storage Suite ( shed) but they either came free with some goody bag event package or had to buy some whilst out and I use them but 3 in One works fine. The important thing as others have said is to keep the chain clean.


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## MilkRace (30 Nov 2018)

Spiderweb said:


> View attachment 440882
> 
> 
> Best I've used.


Looks the bizz.....not sure what the ceramic bit is all about though.

That said....if nothing else, what I've gleaned from this thread so far is that I know very little.

Cheers Spiderweb.


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## si_c (30 Nov 2018)

MilkRace said:


> Looks the bizz.....not sure what the ceramic bit is all about though.
> 
> That said....if nothing else, what I've gleaned from this thread so far is that I know very little.
> 
> Cheers Spiderweb.


I wasn't impressed with the Finish Line Ceramic stuff, it just made everything black and didn't last that long in bad weather. 

I'm mostly using Muc Off wet/dry lube - the name doesn't imply that it's dry, rather it indicates the conditions in which it is intended to be used. The dry stuff is great in summer, although it does need regular reapplication - however it doesn't go black or collect dirt - so it's great in good weather.

Wet lube is great in all conditions, however it does collect dirt and much easier so a little more additional work is required to keep things clean running - I run a rag over the drivetrain at the end of most days and that seems to do the trick. Reapplication is infrequent - I last put some on a couple of weeks ago and we've had a few wet commutes since then.


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## Supersuperleeds (30 Nov 2018)

Finish Line Ceramic for me.


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## raleighnut (30 Nov 2018)

Chainsaw bar oil.


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## Heltor Chasca (30 Nov 2018)

The Finish Line Dry with Teflon is more oily rather than waxy and doesn’t go black. I love it and love the smell. *Giggles*. Great for summer and in the dry

The TF2 wax samples I tried just dispersed scallops of wax all over the place so I doubt it stayed where you need it. Filthy stuff. 

The TF2 wet lube (green bottle) is really similar to chainsaw oil. It lasts ages and protects the chain. It does go dark in the wet and picks up grit, but it is really easy to remove and reapply. 

Chain drives are a fascination. Sorcery subject to me.


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## Smudge (30 Nov 2018)

Gear oil, same as i use on my motorcycle chains. If i didn't have any gear oil in the shed, then i'd use car or mc engine oil.
I never use expensive specific chain oils, i dont believe they're any better than the above.


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## Sharky (30 Nov 2018)

CarlP said:


> 3 in One. Sorted. Bosh. Tuesday.
> 
> View attachment 440881
> 
> ...


I've been using the 3in1 recently. I seem to use whatever is on sale at our local ASDA.
Works well for me, although now retired, I choose my days and rarely go out when it's wet/raining.


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## rogerzilla (30 Nov 2018)

Finish Line wet lube pretty much does what it says on the bottle - quietens noisy chains and is very resistant to being washed off by rain. Doesn't "string" all over your back wheel like chainsaw oil but may spatter slightly.


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## mangid (30 Nov 2018)

Fenwicks Profession Chain Lube for me

https://fenwicksbike.com/product/professional-chain-lube/


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## rogerzilla (30 Nov 2018)

3 in 1 isn't bad, and goes a bit gummy as it dries out which is no bad thing for chain noise. It just washes off a little too easily.


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## Salty seadog (30 Nov 2018)

si_c said:


> however it doesn't go black or collect dirt



Which means it's not doing it's job properly.



si_c said:


> Wet lube is great in all conditions, however it does collect dirt and much easier so a little more additional work is required to keep things clean running



Which means it is doing it's job properly. Washing in and out of the moving parts and washing the crud out.


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## Ajax Bay (30 Nov 2018)

MilkRace said:


> Would like to hear opinions and/or suggestions as to your chain lube of choice, and why?





Joffey said:


> Wend Wax - best thing I've ever used - my drive train is so quiet now. It lasts a good while and keeps the chain nice and clean. Oh, it smells lovely too and comes in lots of pretty colours.





Salty seadog said:


> Dry lube tends to be of the waxy nature And is a terrible lube as noted before. It only lubes until it gets squeezed from the moving parts by pressure and because of its non liquid state cannot flow back in when the pressure is relieved. Your drive train will soon start making a noise.


From another 'what's the best chain oil thread' [Edited for relevance to this thread]:


Yellow Saddle said:


> A bicycle chain, or motorbike chain for that matter, undergoes two different work cycles; the tension cycle and the return run. On a bicycle the tension cycle is the part on top, from where the chain departs the rear sprocket to where it enters the front sprocket. Any link in this cycle experiences only tension. As soon as the link goes around the front chainring it starts to relax and enters the return run where it remains in relative slack until it turns the corner around the top of the cassette again.
> 
> During the tension cycle oil between the bushing and pin is squeezed out of the interface and on the return run oil returns again. Oil thus flows in and out. The inflow is by way of capillary action and the outflow is because the capillary is squeezed and the fluid moves elsewhere. The black you so quickly see on the chain is steel particles ground off inside the chain when it articulates under tension. The reason the black oil can eventually be seen is evidence that the oil flows as you pedal.
> 
> ...


Another chainsaw oil user here. Why? Lubricating, sticks to where it's needed, excess wiped off after application to minimise 'stringing', inexpensive.


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## tommaguzzi (30 Nov 2018)

i have always used used regular engine oil applied with an old school pump oil can this has worked fine for the last 50 years and i see no reason to change.


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## Slow But Determined (30 Nov 2018)

tommaguzzi said:


> i have always used used regular engine oil applied with an old school pump oil can this has worked fine for the last 50 years and i see no reason to change.



Same here, Total Quartz 0-30 at the moment as that is what goes in the car and that is what I have in the garage.


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## rogerzilla (30 Nov 2018)

Allegedly one popular (and raved-about) chain lube of the 1990s was repackaged Mobil 1 engine oil. It's a good enough lubricant - most engines have chains in them, after all - but tends to wash off too easily.


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## Drago (30 Nov 2018)

MilkRace said:


> Would have to say.....I have no idea.....in answer to your question that is, however it does beg the question as to why they would make a dry lube in the first place if it didn't actually do the job?



To sell it for many hundreds of pounds per kilo, and thus make a lot of profit. A lot of profit.


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## wonderloaf (30 Nov 2018)

mangid said:


> Fenwicks Profession Chain Lube for me
> 
> https://fenwicksbike.com/product/professional-chain-lube/


Me too, one application seems to last ages. Getting two bottles for Xmas, how sad is that!


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## Truth (30 Nov 2018)

I like Skol said:


> TF2 for me too. Which reminds me, I need to buy some more as I have recently dribbled the last of a 1ltr bottle, bought a fair few years ago, into the smaller squeezy nozzle bottle I use for applying it.
> I have covered many, many thousands of miles on different bikes (MTB/hybrid commuter/best road bike) in all conditions and always found this oil does the job. Also pretty cheap when bought 1ltr at a time - http://www.wiggle.co.uk/weldtite-tf2-performance-oil
> 
> Bottle has changed a bit since I last bought some
> ...


Used this for 5 years now with the Mickle Method and suits me just fine ...


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## Ming the Merciless (30 Nov 2018)

Heltor Chasca said:


> Snake oil.



With a hint of wet beaver in the winter


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## smokeysmoo (30 Nov 2018)

Chainsaw oil for me. Used it for years and still on the original bottle, in fact I suspect the bottle will last longer than me, and I'm only 45


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## MrGrumpy (10 Dec 2018)

Just bought some chainsaw oil as the fancy pants Finish Line Wax wet lube ( or what ever its called ) is no good at all in winter weather. Require daily reapplying , which makes it an expensive choice. I think its fine for spring and summer. Will see how we get on with the chainsaw stuff.


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## derrick (10 Dec 2018)

DCLane said:


> Race oil - on the race bikes


What would that be Castrol R?


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## derrick (10 Dec 2018)

Atomatic transmission oil. Put on with a syringe.
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/...LAPzTm2APJgm275srUtNE7hkoELhNwRoaAn3TEALw_wcB


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## Vantage (10 Dec 2018)

3 in 1 is too thin as is WD40 and GT85. 
I tried FinishLine Ceramic but thought it was crap and gets dirty real quickly. FinishLine Cross Country wet oil did a good job did a good job during the years I used it. 
TF2 I also thought is a load of s**t and wears off too quick. Maybe OK for summer use
The best stuff I've used is White Lightning Wet Ride oil. Brilliant stuff. Lasts forever in wet or dry conditions and gives a nice quiet drivetrain.


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## beepbeep (10 Dec 2018)

I was under the impression that GT 85 was ok for bike chains ?

I use it on my Road and MTB's.


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## vickster (10 Dec 2018)

Muc off wet, Finish Line dry as that's what I happen to have currently


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## Richard A Thackeray (10 Dec 2018)

'Red' diesel
Cheap enough to wipe over, every other day, & also clean the cassette/jockey-wheels/chain-rings with

Downside...…………. you'll soon know, if your bike lives in the house, as it has a 'certain aroma'


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## Vantage (10 Dec 2018)

beepbeep said:


> I was under the impression that GT 85 was ok for bike chains ?
> 
> I use it on my Road and MTB's.



There's a guy on the cycling UK forum called Brucey. He's a materials scientist and up there with the likes of Sheldon Brown on bicycle knowledge. If a million people say one thing about something regarding cycling mechanicals and he says differently, I'll take his version every time. 
GT85 and similar aren't thick enough for chain lubrication according to him. That's good enough for me. 
Having tried it myself though, I could feel the chain grinding on the cogs with that stuff. Not good.


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## youngoldbloke (10 Dec 2018)

Progold Prolink applied with a hypodermic syringe, one drop per chain roller. Also use it on all other pivot points on the bikes.


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## palinurus (10 Dec 2018)

Current stuff came from Wilkos. As long as it's cheapish and gloopy enough I'm not fussed.


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## palinurus (10 Dec 2018)

rogerzilla said:


> Allegedly one popular (and raved-about) chain lube of the 1990s was repackaged Mobil 1 engine oil. It's a good enough lubricant - most engines have chains in them, after all - but tends to wash off too easily.



Got some engine oil in the shed left over from previous inhabitant. Might start using that, probably will last me the rest of my life- there's quite a bit of it.


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## DaveReading (10 Dec 2018)

youngoldbloke said:


> Progold Prolink applied with a hypodermic syringe, one drop per chain roller. Also use it on all other pivot points on the bikes.



+1 for Prolink, applied with a leftover ink cartridge refill bellows.


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## Blue Hills (10 Dec 2018)

Vantage said:


> There's a guy on the cycling UK forum called Brucey. He's a materials scientist and up there with the likes of Sheldon Brown on bicycle knowledge. If a million people say one thing about something regarding cycling mechanicals and he says differently, I'll take his version every time.
> GT85 and similar aren't thick enough for chain lubrication according to him. That's good enough for me.
> Having tried it myself though, I could feel the chain grinding on the cogs with that stuff. Not good.


Didn't know he was a materials scientist but I have long had the impression that he operates from an underground bike laboratory. Seems to have taken every bike bit in existence apart. I rate him as you do. Very helpful.

On the lube front, having tried lots of supposedly miraculous lubes I have settled on weldtite's performance:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/weldtite-tf2-performance-oil/rp-prod5960?

and I rather suspect that one of wilco's lubes is the same thing. Just get a smal;l funnel and you can funnel the big packs into the small.

It is a bit on the liquid side but the esteemed brucey reckons that liquidy can be good for clearing chain debris. Everything running sweet with it on my favourite bike at the mo.

And as far as I'm concerned yet again proves that with bike stuff you don't necessarily have to spend a lot.


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## Blue Hills (10 Dec 2018)

palinurus said:


> Current stuff came from Wilkos. As long as it's cheapish and gloopy enough I'm not fussed.


just seen - see my post - may be weldtite? Bottle seems similar and what comes out of the nozzle.


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## User6179 (10 Dec 2018)

beepbeep said:


> I was under the impression that GT 85 was ok for bike chains ?
> 
> I use it on my Road and MTB's.



It washes off in the rain quicker than regular oils


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## MrGrumpy (11 Dec 2018)

GT 85 is great for cleaning and it smells good  . Anyway update thus far on the Chainsaw oil, is that its certainly doing its job ! I applied with a small paint brush and then wiped of the excess. Will see how it stands up to rain.


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## Alan O (11 Dec 2018)

I use GT 85, but not really as a lubricant. If a bike's drive chain is dry and not too dirty, I just clean with a rag and relube with oil.

But if a bike comes home very wet, or dirty and gets a hosing down, I then spray generously with GT 85 as a water displacer - then when the solvent has pretty much evaporated, lube again with oil.

The big beauty of GT 85 for this use is that it's very cheap if you stock up when Aldi has it for just £2 for a 400ml can - but these days I've stockpiled so much of it I have to actively resist buying more whenever I see it.

Oh, and yes, it does smell good!


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## Salty seadog (11 Dec 2018)

Ajax Bay said:


> From another 'what's the best chain oil thread' [Edited for relevance to this thread]:
> 
> Another chainsaw oil user here. Why? Lubricating, sticks to where it's needed, excess wiped off after application to minimise 'stringing', inexpensive.


The @Yellow Saddle quote is exactly where I found my understanding. It.s true and I always knew it.


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## MontyVeda (11 Dec 2018)

£2.99 from Aldi...







I rate it.


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## mgs315 (11 Dec 2018)

Use this at the mo. Green Oil Wet Chain Lube.

Biodegradable and even the container is made from 100% recycled plastic. Seems to work fine as a a product. 

Small green gestures and all. They all add up.


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## MrGrumpy (11 Dec 2018)




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## Ajax Bay (12 Dec 2018)

The chain oil thread, which has been resurrected from 2015 !! as spin-off of this discussion, is this way >>>>>>
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chain-oil-for-bikes-cheaper-alternative.170728/


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## Alan O (12 Dec 2018)

Dogtrousers said:


> You can never have too many chain lube threads.


Ah, but which chain lube thread is better for winter?


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## Drago (12 Dec 2018)




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## Threevok (12 Dec 2018)

mgs315 said:


> View attachment 442260
> 
> 
> Use this at the mo. Green Oil Wet Chain Lube.
> ...



Just bought the last bottle in stock from Wiggle - cheers


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## PapaZita (12 Dec 2018)

mgs315 said:


> View attachment 442260
> 
> 
> Use this at the mo. Green Oil Wet Chain Lube.
> ...




I hope they've reformulated it since the bottle I tried a few years ago. It wasn't obviously bad as a lubricant, but a thick sticky residue built up that was highly resistant to cleaning. I suspect the serious solvents that eventually got it off did more environmental harm than a little bit of oil would have done. I've gone back to oily oil.


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## Threevok (12 Dec 2018)

PapaZita said:


> I hope they've reformulated it since the bottle I tried a few years ago. It wasn't obviously bad as a lubricant, but a thick sticky residue built up that was highly resistant to cleaning. I suspect the serious solvents that eventually got it off did more environmental harm than a little bit of oil would have done. I've gone back to oily oil.



I shall report back


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## mgs315 (12 Dec 2018)

PapaZita said:


> I hope they've reformulated it since the bottle I tried a few years ago. It wasn't obviously bad as a lubricant, but a thick sticky residue built up that was highly resistant to cleaning. I suspect the serious solvents that eventually got it off did more environmental harm than a little bit of oil would have done. I've gone back to oily oil.



Hmm, seems ok with a weekly/fortnightly Mickle method (depending on usage).


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