# The Big Big Trip Journal! If you want to make the man (or woman) upstairs laugh, just tell him your plans!



## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Introduction
I don't know how other people plan their trips. I don’t even know how I plan my trips because there is no consistency to the process and my experience has taught me that decisions made at home should often be reconsidered when faced with the practicalities of the road.

I’m not going to go into too much background planning on this for the simple reason that not an awful lot has been done. It suffices to say that 2018 has not been kind to me healthwise and I’m damned if I’m going to let it finish the way it started.

If at times you find yourself reading this and thinking variations of “What a feckin' eejit!”, please bear in mind that this trip was in the hands of the Medical Gods until (literally) hours before I climbed on the bike and rode off. Three weeks before departure I could barely walk. I’ve gone from a 40 odd km daily commute to hardly being on a bike for months so my physical condition is pretty poor, my practical preparation is almost non-existant. I’m either very brave or very dumb! :-)

What follows is written for two purposes;
Firstly, it is for me; I'm going to want to remember as much of this trip as possible and I hope the discipline of regular updates will make me note so many of the details that I often forget.

The second reason is to hopefully inspire someone who thinks about getting on a bike and going for an adventure. If you knew me, you’d know I’m about as unlikely a person to climb on a bike and head off.
For starters, I was born without a sense of direction and have thus far failed to acquire one. I’m a lazy bugger who really likes his comforts. I've lived in The Netherlands for twenty odd years so hills, and especially mountains, are, literally, a foreign country to me. Five years ago I couldn't fix a puncture or ride more than 10 km without rest for a ciggie. I write, with all honesty, that if I can do this, then just about anybody can.

The rough plan is to arrive in Norfolk, Virginia in early October after checking off a boyhood dream and crossing the Atlantic on a cargo ship. I’m going to fulfill an ambition to visit Charleston, South Carolina for no other reason than I fell in love with the accent years ago.. Her name was Tifffany, if you really want to know and I could have listened to that woman talk for hours. I heard her fighting with her boyfriend and even then the melodious Southern notes were easy on the ear.
Then I fulfill the musical part of the tour - off to Nashvville, stay with some friends, then down to New Orleans (if I have the time) to sit and think at Lake Ponchatrain, then into Texas (to satisfy my cowboy urges) and visit Austin for more music and a margherita in the Chilli Parlour Bar. Then south through New Breunfels and the Gruene Hall, ending the musical odyssey, until I finally drop into Mexico sometime around December.
Mexico is the food part of the trip. I want to try real Mexiccan food, not the bland, barely spicy stuff served in NL. I’m also planning on finding a language school and getting a handle on some Spanish. The way I see it, I’ll be spending quite a while in the Spanish speaking world and it can only enhance the experience. I’ll knock off the Devil’s Backbone on the way to Mazatlan on the coast before turning south.
Then I’ll keep heading south until I run out of land……
I’ll leave Antaartica for the penguins. That’s as far as I have gone in my planning.

I'd love comments and I imagine there will be times when a little inspiration and encouragement will be very welcome.. If you have questions, fire away, but please remember that I’m on the road and expect connectivity to be an issue.
In the interests of keeping this travelogue in a free-flowing format, I’ve been given permission by the mod team here to open a separate thread so that this thread contains sequential posts.

Finally, Hobbes is the tiger who accompanies me on my bicycle trips. He’s getting a bit battered by now, but he’s hanging in there. I’ve a dislike of being in photos, and the idea of a selfie to me starts to make Chinese Water Torture sound like a spa day. Hobbes fills that gap, making photos a bit more personal. He has also come to represent people I’ve known or met along the way who can no longer do the things I’m lucky enough to do.
If you’re interested in a more photo heavy presentation, Hobbes On Tour is on facebook.

Roccado the bike







Hobbes as a young fella, back in 2014


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 1: September 14, 2019 Tilburg - Dordrecht 59 km.

It took all of 800 meters until I had to stop. The wobble from the trailer was just too extreme. I reorganised things and set off again, right through the city centre like I was a cheap hooker - my rear was swaying so much from side to side! Once past the mayhem of the market I pulled up again and noticed that the tyre was a little flat. A bit more pressure and this time the wobbling was less street and more elegant - but still hooker material. I could live with it.

I hadn’t planned much of a route, just fed in the campsite into cycle.travel and just outside the city hit the first roadblock - literally. A diversion for work along the canal that for once, had no diversion numbers or letters to follow. A quick detour through an industrial zone and I was back in the sunshine along the canal.

I knew this canal. Had cycled it many times, winter and summer. But I don’t think I’ve ever seen it look this pretty. And that was the story of the day - sun shining, everything looking pretty and nice steady progress, albeit interrupted when the trailer started to wobble.

I stopped to take a photo on a bridge and an older chap stopped to express his “interest” in my load. Too polite to question me outright, he approached the topic stealthily, eventually enquiring where I was heading.
Well, I couldn’t stay shtum! I told him I was heading for Dordrecht, then Rotterdam, so far so good, then I was catching a ship to America and after that I was heading south to ride to the very bottom of South America.

Bye Bye T-Town








Now, I’ve lived in NL for 20 years and South America is Zuid Amerika, but I have always had a problem with pronouncing the “Zuid” word. (Lots of others too!). Anyway, my grand declaration was met with silence, then confusion. So I repeated myself. Not helping. So then I said Argentina and the reaction was more like I would have expected. There was shoulder clapping and exclamations and he admitted he thought I was mad out for a cycle with such a load, but now he understood. We had a nice chat and went our separate ways.

When I called the campsite to check they were open I was told they were (last weekend of the season), but they were full! When I asked about a fietser met een tent, that was no problem. The campsite was delightful, a separate alley for trekkers tents with picnic tables and close to the facilities. After I had pitched the tent I decided to treat myself to dinner out and was just heading away when I met a young chap from Switzerland waiting politely to check in. He was 3 months into his first ever cycling tour having begun in Switzerland, headed north into Scandinavia, then south to Scotland and was in the process of working his way back home. I got the feeling that home was only going to be temporary as he was talking about heading south for the winter. Careful now! Bike touring can be addictive.








I was starving so headed off on a food quest and we said we’d chat later. Subway was the choice this evening, and afterwards, I picked up a six pack of beer to share with the young cyclist. Back at the campsite he had set up beside me and joined me to eat his dinner but declined the beer. No bad habits. At all.

He was enjoying himself. Seemed to be pretty much following his nose. Scotland had been tough. The weather was not cooperative, unless you actually like getting soaked and blown around. However, he found, as I have, that people are very helpful. He was offered shelter several times in people’s own homes.

As it turned out, the couple in the tent on the other side of me were also bike tourists, just making a weekend trip. We had a good chat the next morning over coffee.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 2: September 15, Dordrect - Brielle 64km (Some of those on the waterbus)

I awoke and tested myself gingerly for any fallout from the previous day’s efforts and gave myself a reasonably clean bill of health.
I brewed some coffee, chatted to my neighbours, waved the Swiss chap off (no coffee for him!), packed up and hit the road.
I played around with the packing of the panniers for the trailer to see if that would improve things. It did, but slightly.
I headed for the centre of Dordrecht with the intention of cheating - I took the water bus to Rotterdam. Cheap, fast and it’s a boat! I love boats! :-)
You can pay on the waterbus if you don’t have a card and bikes travel for free!

One of the interesting aspects of the trip is that you pass a replica of Noah’s Ark. That’s right. A replica. Not a scale model (that was the first one). An actual full size, measurements-taken-from-the-Bible Ark. With a fake giraffe at the front.

Noah's Ark







The water-bus deposited me at the Erasmus Bridge and I wandered down along the river for a bit before heading out and away from the city.
My plan was simple. I needed to check in with immigration on September 17 at a special police/immigration post. After that, I needed a taxi to get me through the port and onto the ship. (Pedestrians/cyclists are a no-no in the port area - this is not the ferry area). So I was heading in the direction of Brielle to find a campsite, have a rest day, then a short cycle to immigration, hop in the taxi and the real adventure would begin!

Rotterdam







Fuelled up on some Surinam food from a stall on the side of the road the cycle was pleasant, past some ships, into the country, along a river. There was a bit of a headwind but given my lack of physical preparation I’ve the idea that a fly could break wind in my general direction and I’d consider that a headwind! Later, when I saw some windmills they were moving, but only breaking even.
The campsite I wanted didn’t answer the phone so I rolled into another. A big one. With a party going on. Nobody at reception. I called the other campsite again. No answer. I called the number on the door. Was told where to pitch and to pay in the morning.

The pitch was on the football field so it was flat. And there you have the only positive point of this campsite. But the music went on and on. Just one mobile home. There were signs up in the wash areas that the water was not for drinking so I hoarded my water. It was not a good campsite. Someone kept driving around in a golf-cart long after dark illuminating the tent as bright as day. People walking dogs let their dogs wander over to my tent and sniff and scrabble.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 3 September 16 Brielle - Brielle 14km 
The next morning I just wanted to get out of there! I was not spending my rest day there! But it was raining, so with no desire to pack up my tent wet, I read my kindle and waited it out. Once it stopped, I paid, commented on the water situation (the water’s fine, just have to have signs up for the law) and headed into Brielle.
I know next to nothing about Brielle except that it is a charming little town, full of history and surrounded by a moat and it even has some cannons. Loads of boats, old and new and a few bridges that open to let the boats under. 
Hungry, I wandered around until I caught a smell in the air and followed that down to one of the little harbours where there was a market in full swing. The smell was sourced from a fish stand so I parked up at a bench and a lovely, friendly lady made me some fish and chips with a delicious tartare sauce. Dessert was poffertjes (like little pancakes) from another stand washed down with some coffee. The sun was shining and all was good in the world.

I had emailed my preferred campsite and received a reply as I ate. Yes, open, come on by. So, after a wander around Brielle (really, really charming) I cycled the few kms out the road to MiniCamping De Bark. Now, this is a campsite! On a farm, lots of trees and hedges, little corners, private yet friendly. Picnic bench for those with a tent. The owner gave a personal tour, talking about 15 mins explaining everything. A great campsite and handy for anyone heading to or from Hull. I even ordered a pizza and had it delivered! :-) 
I took it easy, showered, did some laundry, exercises and devoured my kindle. I got ready for the next day, burned off the last of my meths, washed out the bottle, scrubbed the trangia, cleaned out the burner. Got my paperwork in order for immigration, sent out my goodbye messages, made a few calls and went to bed excited as a kid on Christmas Eve.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 4 September 17 Brielle to Oudenhove 59km.
I was up early, no coffee because I had no more fuel, packed up, cleaned the tent and pegs (I don’t want any hassle on the other side) and headed into Brielle for breakfast.
Breakfast reminded me of one of the things I have found the hardest to deal with in NL - the process.

I found the “breakfast spot” on the same harbour as my fish and poffertjes yesterday. I parked up the bike and went inside and asked to order some food. I was told to sit outside and someone would come to me. I ordered my coffee anyway much to her frustration. Then I got my menu. Then a young chap brought my coffee. I was ready to order my food, but he explained that he didn’t do food orders. His colleague did. A few minutes later he was back - his colleague was on the phone so now he could take my order.
Food was great. I tried ordering another coffee. Confusion. Could he take the coffee order? Apparently he could because it arrived a few minutes later.
Then I was asked to move my bike. So I did. He thanked me, then a few minutes later was back to ask me to move it again.
It was time! Time to hit the road, get my permission from immigration and get on the ship, so I hopped back on the bike and cycled the few kms to the immigration point.
I rolled in not really knowing what to expect. I made a joke about using my Dutch for the last time for a long time and explained what ship I was booked on and asking what exactly I needed to do.
The uniformed officer looked at me seriously, looked at my passport seriously and looked at his computer screen seriously. Then he looked at me even more seriously.

“Sir, your ship is not in port”
That took me a few moments to process.
“Sir, your ship is in Southampton”.
More confusion and more silence from me.
Slowly my brain kicked itself into gear.
“If it’s in Southampton, does that man it’s on it’s way to Rotterdam or has it already left?”
This was a delicate question with quite a bit hanging on the outcome.
“It’s coming from Norfolk,'' he said, “On its way to Rotterdam”.
I think I did a little jig of joy!
At this point his colleagues became involved. Apparently, this kind of thing doesn’t happen very often!
I clarified that the ship was on the way, so at least I wasn’t stranded. That was confirmed.
“Unfortunately Sir, I cannot process you because your ship is not in port”.
That was the least of my worries. I took out my phone to call the Port Agent to see what I should be doing. Then I saw a big sign prohibiting mobile phones, but they told me not to worry about it. So I called and yes, the ship was arriving later, probably not until Friday. Come back on Friday and do the same process.
Then they offered me coffee and we all had a bit of a laugh. They wondered what I was going to do. I said I’d head off on the bike for a few more days and come back on Friday.
Everyone who came into the office was told my story and we all had a good laugh about it. When they told me I was being very calm about it all, I just pointed out how the ship could have been ahead of schedule!

They were all very nice, very helpful. The process is the same as passport control at an airport. Quick and easy. I said my goodbyes, remembered to change the taxi reservation, hopped on the bike and headed for Germany.






(Hobbes in Germany 2014)


Well, it wasn’t Germany, but there were so many Germans on the Dutch west coast I may as well have been in Germany. I picked out another mini camping near Renesse and headed there. The wobble was still there. And a headwind. A real headwind this time, confirmed by the windmills (turbines? I think I prefer windmills) who were generating a healthy profit today. Over some flood defenses, past some windsurfers who were really moving and eventually into a campsite occupied exclusively by the Germans!

I set up, had a shower, did some laundry and popped into town to the supermarket for food. More Germans. Even the cashier was speaking German! Thankfully, I remembered I had no fuel for my stove so bought some Spiritus, some food and headed back for a lazy evening of food and reading. And just a little regret that right then I wasn’t on one of the huge container ships.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 5 September 18 Rest Day 0km
I’ve been paying a lot of attention to my body, constantly scanning for any sign of disruption and I was pleased once again to note that I seemed to be fit, if not quite fighting fit yet.
I had a lazy morning reading my kindle, than I got up, made coffee and read some more. Finally, I tackled a few chores to do with the bike and the wobbling. I adjusted brakes, checked all the nuts and bolts and experimented with different ways of loading the bike.
I’m carrying some extra stuff, mainly papers, notes and some extra clothing for the ship so I’m not carrying my usual load. 
Then off to the supermarket again for some more food.
The Germans in the nearest camper were playing Europop with a heavy bassline into the night. And they wonder why no-one likes them! ;-)


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 6 September 19 Oudenhove to Brielle (again)
There was a bit of rain this morning so I waited until that passed then got up. Breakfast was coffee and bacon and egg butties, lying under the sun. 
I packed up slowly and hit the road, trying to avoid, as much as possible, the way I had travelled down. A very pleasant cycle with lots of sun, a swirly wind and best of all no more wobbling! My rear is in gear!
Of course, I came back to my now favourite campsite after having had an early dinner. I checked in with the port agent by phone. It looks like the ship is delayed again and I need to check tomorrow what time I can board or if Saturday is better. Ah, the life of the wanderer!

Snapshots of Brielle


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 7 September 20
Awake early and the excitement level was high. Today was the day I’d be boarding the big ship. I called the agent but there was no answer. Then again, it was only 7 am. I got up and started to get organised. Brewed a pot of coffee and tried the agent again a little after eight.
Yep! Another delay. The ship wouldn’t be in port until late in the afternoon. Boarding was best done the next afternoon. However, the passport check still had to be done and since the nearest office was not open at the weekend I had the choice of getting processed at the local office today, or taking a trip back into the centre of Rotterdam tomorrow. I chose for today. I contacted the taxi company to change the reservation again.

Now, with no rush, I relaxed, had a leisurely breakfast and enjoyed the peace and quiet. Later, I cycled the six odd km to the passport control to get processed. None of the friendly folks from Tuesday were there, today it was a whole different crew and they were busy. There was a lot of processing going on. Photos. Fingerprints. People waiting. I seemed to be the only one to be processed for departure. The others seemed to be inbound - crew from different ships in port. Outside, a bus was waiting for one group and 2 minibuses waited for others.
There was no need for my photo or fingerprints. My passport was checked, my name on the passenger manifest was checked and I was done.
Dinner was mussels, frietjes and a beer and an early night was had.

Hobbes feeling confined ;-)


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 8 September 21
When I woke up this morning I wasn’t excited - I was apprehensive. I guess there’s only so many times I can get excited about boarding a big ship! Today was definitely the day! I’ not sure where the previous excitement has gone - too many false starts, perhaps.
I’d a leisurely breakfast, aired my sleeping bag and sleeping pad, organised my panniers to make sure I had what I needed handy, cleaned, dried and packed up the tent. Cleaned out my stove and tried to relax..
Since it was not allowed to cycle in the port, I had arranged a taxi to bring me there from the paspoortcontrole, and since passport control was yesterday, the taxi was picking me up from the campsite.

14:00 bang on schedule he was at the gate, we loaded the bike and bags and hit the road. Rotterdam port is big. And getting bigger! When we eventually arrived at the right quay, there was more security to go through and the next obstacle to overcome - my papers were in order, but the taxi was denied access. Because of health and safety I wasn't allowed to cycle portside -- I was stuck! Stuck, at least, until a few emails sorted the issue and we headed to the ship..

I knew it was going to be big, but, there’s big and there's big! And this was definitely big! We unloaded the cab, I paid the driver and he was off, leaving me staring in trepidation at the gangway and wondering just how this was going to work. The problem wasn’t the stairs so much as the narrowness. There were some guys on the deck waving at me to go up, so I grabbed a pair of panniers and headed up. When I got to the top I was welcomed heartily aboard, had to fill in a sign in sheet and told not to worry about the rest of the gear - they had a winch and a big tarp -- it would all be brought up for me. I had people coming up to me shaking my hand, checking my details, pulling me hither and thither.

All my gear safely aboard








I was brought to an office and handed over my passport (standard procedure), then back on deck to find a home for the bike - Rocco got his own cabin!! Then bags picked up and off to my cabin.
As it turned out, the cabin wasn't ready, but I was told the steward would be along shortly. I really don't care -- I had a view to the front of the ship and could see the containers being loaded and unloaded. As a bonus, I had a window to the side giving a view out to sea.

It’s disorientating on such a big ship. Just trying to keep track of where you are in terms of which level is tough enough.

I couldn’t wait to get out on deck and watch the loading and unloading process. Containers were being dropped into position from high cranes stretching over the ship. Below them self driving platforms carried containers to or from their pick up points. From a height, they were like an army of ants, all working in co-orddination with each other. It was fascinating.

When I got back to my room the steward showed up, shocked because I was in the wrong room, apologising profusely as we transferred my stuff to the next room. Advanage - a bigger bed, disadvantage, I lost my view to the sea. This was going to be home for the next couple of weeks.

I wandered around and found the officer's mess where passengers would eat too. In there I found the other passenger, an Americaann lady doing a round trip from Virginia to Virginia, about 35 days in total.. She had travelled as the sole passengers up to this point so I think she was looking forward to some company. We were due to pick up a passenger in Le Havre and another in Bremerhaven. This was news to me. Not that there were other passengers, but that we were going to France and Germany (And Belgium as it turned out!). Never having received a full itinerary, I had presumed we were going directly to New York and from there to Norfolk, Virginia. (I had got this organised about 6 weeks in advance - last minute in terms of cargo ships).
As it turned out, due to the delays, Le Havvre was dropped from the schedule (the containers to be loaded at Le Havre were shipped by road to Bremerhhaveen), the order was changed so that our first destination was Antwerp, followed by Bremerhaveen.

Here’s the thing about travelling by cargo ship - you have to be easy going. Changes are common, schedules are set by cargo, not passengers. You deal with port agents for whom you are a very low priority. The officers have practically nothing to do with you until you are onboard. It’s a working ship so the decks are working areas, the stairs are
steep and plentiful! Food is good, but there is no choice and times are strict.
On the other hand we have a free run of the Bridge (within reason)) and we got tours of all the main areas of the ship with explanations of how everything worked. We got to play with the electronic charts, zooming in and out on our location, checking out other ships in the area. If you like ships and are interested in how they work, I couldn't recommend this more!

We departed Rotterdam during dinner, so straight after it was up to the Bridge for the rundown to Antwerp. Then off to bed for my first night aboard.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Days 9-23 September 22 - October 05 Crossing the Atlantic
I stayed aboard in Antwerp. I've been there before and frankly, I was terrified of being left behind!

There was a day and a half in Antwerp, then off to Breemeerhaaven, back up along the coast. This time I got to see the new pilot arriving before the first pilot disembarked. (Powerful Pilot boats pull up beside the ship and the Pilot jumps from one to the other. Ships of all shapes and sizes everywhere. That stretch of coast between Rotterdam and Antwrp is busy!!

Bremerhaven was a dawn arrival, having had to sit for a few hours due to heavy fog. With a day and a half layover, I decided to go ashore to explore. It was a straightforward process. Get a shuttle bus to the gate and walk out. I walked for about an hour too get to the edge of the city. Bremerhavven is suffering and not as prosperous as it was. A U.S. military base was shut down and 20,000 odd personnel and families are gone. Trade at the port is down, though Bremerhaven is the largest port for car transportation. There are special ships for that. And lots of cars wrapped in plastic. There were a lot of “dance clubs” with no windows and I don’t recall ever seeing so many gambling locations anywhere else in Germany. I walked to the Maritime museum and passed a very pleasant view hours looking at a restored ship from the 1300’s dredged out of the river in the 1960’s and restored over the following 3 decades. The next building over had a VR tour of a German Icebreaker/Environmental exploration ship. It may sound boring, but it wwas really interestingg. With the VR goggles it was like being in the different sections of the ship. It is currently starting a year long investigation where it wil attach itself to ice in the Arctic circle, set up a base camp and drift with the ice….for a whole year!
Across the road is a refurbished U-Boat from WWII. Now that is interesting! How 40 guys lived in those conditions in wartime is beyond me. For all the fear the U-boats inspired during the war, 30,000 GGerman sailors lost their lives in U-boats during the war years. Just in the U-boats.

Bremerhaven








I wandered around the shopping district after, had my last European food - CurryWurst,, Pommes and a cool beer. I’m going to miss Germany. This coming Christmas will be the first time in years that a trip to a German Christmas Market is not possible. I’ll be having a Mexican Christmas! :-)

With a 22:00 departure, we have to be back at least 2 hours before departure. Around 4 pm, I started to get a bit nervous about the ship leaving without me (they will!), especially since the 2 departures you up to now had not been at the scheduled time, so I hopped in a cab and went back to the ship.

Bremerhaven is on one of the Eurovelo routes. Worth a visit.

Our route took us over the top of mainland Scotland (avoiding a storm further south), south of Greenland, parallel to Canada and into New York, well, strictly speaking New Jersey.. I call it the Ryanair affect -- Sell New York, land in New Jersey!!






Somewhere south of Greenland





Safety at sea is a top priority!





View from the Bridge





Loading / Unloading





U- Boat Bremerhaven. Definitely worth a visit.








It is a fantastic way to travel as long as you have books. If you like ships (and I sure do!) it is simply fantastic! Up and down to the Bridge, out on the decks, access pretty much everywhere. Tours of the different areas, lead by the respective officers. Hobbes even got to do his Leonardo Di Caprio impersonation.

One of the things I really wanted to do was to look at the stars from the middle of the Atlantic. The weather was not cooperating with cloudy skies until the second last night before landfall in N.J. Then the clouds stayed away long enough to stare at an open sky and stars stretching as far as the eye could see. I even saw a shooting star!

Manhattan at Sunrise







Immigration was done in NJ despite me not leaving the ship until Norfolk. Picked up by a driver, driven 30 odd km to a terminal building for cruise ships and processed in a matter of minutes. Having gone through iimmigration twice before on different trips to the U.S. this was a surprisingly pleasant experience, consisting off a chat, a stamp on my visa (visa required for land/sea entry) and my fingerprints taken. Then back in the car to the ship.

Later I went ashore again with the crew, first to a Seaman's Centre, a religious group offering assistance to sailors. There are different organizations around the world all doing the same thing. Internet, sim cards, money transfers and all kinds of support are available as well as regular buses to and from the ships for crew. They were currently fighting a new order from Homeland Security that banned crew from going on land unless they had been travelling to the U.S. for 5 years or more. Some crew had jumped ship recently so the reaction was to pretty much stop all crew going ashore. When it was announced on the ship, the disappointment was palpable.
Then to a shopping mall to get a sim card for my phone, then back to the ship on a bus provided by the seamen's centre.
I’ve been to New York before and it's really not my kind of town- Central Park was nice, it wasn't really worth the hassle of going in. I can see Manhattan from one side of the ship. That' enough.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 24 Sunday Oct 06, Norfolk International Terminal to Chesapeake Campsite

Leaving NJ at night







Today was the day! Sundays and Thursdays were special breakfasts on the ship - fresh oj, croissants and pain au chocolat as well as the usual fruit, youghurts, bread and something cooked as well as lots of coffee! I took my time, savouring the last of this luxurious feasting, then outside for one last look from the deck to be treated to the sight of a pair of dolphins frolicking in the water - a good omen, I presumed, then finished packing the bags and down to the ship’s office to pick up my passport and to watch my gear being dropped, sorry, I mean gently lowered to the quay by a crane.

I don’t know what it is with American officials. The shuttle bus that came to pick me up parked a good 10 meters away from where all my gear was sitting on the quay. The captain and first engineer were going for a run (how times have changed! Sailors have a reputation for hitting port and going on a rampage of sex and alcohol!) and persuaded her to come closer.
At the gate we said our goodbyes and I started to assemble all the gear on my bike. What I found very interesting was the fact that there were no security checks on me my gear when I got on and when I got off the ship.

Setting off, I was following a route I had made at home to bring me to a campground in Chesapeake beside the wonderfully named Dismal Swamp. The route brought me past a hardware store where I stopped to pick up some fuel for my stove. As things turned out there was no need for me to dump my fuel before I left because there were no checks!

Riding through Norfolk the route brought me through a large part of suburbia and I was very surprised to see so many squirrels running around relatively tame. I passed through middle class areas, but also some poorer areas. Lots of elderly people sitting on their porches, most waving and saluting me as I rambled by. Cycling was fine, there were even a few bike paths for a little while. I even got cat-called by a lady getting out of her car!

I had to cross a couple of bridges and while one was fine the other had no shoulder so I cycled across on the path after a car blasted me with a horn.

Most of the route was relatively quiet for traffic but occasionally I had to travel a short distance on quite busy roads. On one such road, needing to make a left turn (across the traffic) from 3 lanes of traffic, I decided to use the pedestrian crossing. I got to cross the first set of lights but couldn't manage to maneuver myself to hit the button for the second set of lights. A policeman popped up from behind an electrical box and hit the button for me. It turns out he was in hiding waiting to catch people breaking the lights. I blew his cover!

One thing I have noticed is that there are a lot of churches and churches have always been very useful to my navigation. However these churches are a little different and they lack the big spires that are useful for finding the centres of towns, or occasionally, just towns! And they were certainly busy today! (Sunday).








I stopped in Deep Creek for food - Waffle World - they really need to go to Belgium for some inspiration! I had a breakfast special of hashbrowns, Texas bacon and eggs. Then over to a supermarket for my first American shopping experience! Food’s not cheap! I picked up some pasta, sauce, bread, chocolate and some couscous for breakfast. The only couscous
I could find was flavoured - olive oil and garlic or parmesan cheese - not exactly breakfast materials. When I opened up the box though, the seasoning was in a separate packet - handy for pasta. And the bread is awful! :-)

I’m surprisingly calm. It hasn’t quite hit home yet that I am on my bike so far away from my usual base. One thing that is good, is that I am in a place where we (almost) speak the same language. It sure makes things easier!

The Campsite is big, full of incredible RVs and caravans. I’ve never seen anything like them. The friendly girl in the office had a problem checking me in - her computer system couldn’t find Ireland, so we settled on the Netherlands and my Dutch driving license for I.D. There’s a big tent section in a load of trees and it is very, very quiet. Not a bad way to end the day, stateside.

First night camping in the US of A!






Tomorrow will be further and at some point I will pick up the Adventure Cycling Association “Atlantic Coast Route”. I’ll follow that down to Charlston, then west to Nashville. That’ll be challenging for finding camping spots as well as the Appalachians!


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 25 Monday, October 7, Chesapeake to Bell’s Island 86 KM
Night falls early in this part of the world at this time of the year. Dark by 7 pm. That’s going to be one of the bigger challenges for me - I like meandering and taking my time, but dislike cycling in the dark. It’s bright from 7 am so thaat gives me 12 hours of daylight to work with.

I packed up relatively quickly and headed off, planning on picking up breakfast down the road. Initially, I was riding between the main road and a canal at the edge of th Dismal Swamp. Easy riding, free from the hassle of cars & pick-ups and trucks. 

Swampy!















Then it was away from the road on a motor free road through the swamp proper, complete with signs warning of bears! Now I was starting to feel far from home! 













In sunshine, my gps was reading up to 35 celcius, but there was a wind and shade from trees keeping me cool. I came to an official visitor centre where breakfast came from a vending machine, but fresh water was available. On the off cchance, more for an opportunity to have a chat, I toddled into the Tourist info offfice to be told tht there was a problem with one of thee ferries on the Outer Banks - the route I was planning to take. It seems that Hurricane Dorian has left his mark ina big way and the ferry from Cedar Island to Ocracoke is only carrrying locals with special permission. Since this is at the southern end, it looks like my journey down the O.B. is not going to go ahead. 
They were kind enough to give me a map of North Carolina and I had a look for a while at alternative routes down. In any case, I decided to head on to my destination for today and headed off again through the swamp/park. 

I’m following a route on Gizmo, my Wahoo Elemnt gps and when it directed me off the motor free route and back onto the main road, I decided to risk continuing on along the canal. According to the gps they linked back up later.
Oh! Foolish me! My road was a dead end, approximately 100 meters to the main road. “Ah, not so bad”, I thought to myself. I can just wade through the long grass to the road.
Oh! Foolish me!!
Leaving the bike, I started to wade heavily through the grass, stomping my feet to scare any snakes when all of a sudden something was biting my ankle. And again. And again. Looking down I could see nothing and then they started on my other ankle. I quickly started walking backwards, back to the road to discover that there were no animals biting me - but little burrs stuck to my shoes and ankles. Bending over I started to flick them off with my fingers.
Oh! Foolish me! These are nasty little buggers. With very sharp thorns! One actually stuck to my fingernail! One got under my fingernail leaving me with a bleeding finger for most of the day! 
Removing them all turned into a roadside surgical operation - almost.
One thng was clear, there was no way the bike was going through there - the tyres would be in shreds!

The little buggers







Turning around, I slowly cycled back quietly cursing my inattention to detail and loudly cursing the guy on a training ride who had passed me earlier in both directions and never thought to offer the opinion that I may just be making a mistake. 
There was a shortcut back to the main road, down a dirt track past, what I suppose could be called a “shotgun shack”, a building thrown together from all kinds of scrap materials, roof held down with rope and ballast in the form of tree trunks and rocks and enough old cars rusting to suggest that someone lived there. I did think of turning down, but the notion of “shotgun” would not leave my mind so I continued on the long way.

Back on the road, the shoulder was full of debris of all sorts. The road is pretty straight, pretty boring and I really have to focus on what’s in front of me in the shoulder and what’s coming up behind me. This st the tone for the rest of the day - mainly big roads, variable shoulders, constant awareness required and pretty hot sun.

I stopped in the town(?) of Sligo at a produce store for a cold drink, was tempted into buying some local honey ($13!) and a snow cone. Dumbass me thought a snow cone was an ice cream - nope - just some flavoured ice. I’ll live and learn! Israeli flags were prominent everywhere at this store and a “We’re praying for Israel” sign at the roadside. 

Nearing Bell’s Island I turned off the main road at another unusual market along the side of the road and stopped to buy a dozen eggs (no smaller quantities available) and on then through some quiet wetlands to the campsite.

I wasn’t impressed on arrival. The tent pitches were fine - flat, grass, picnic benches and right beside the water. But the facilities? They hadn’t been updated in years. One shower that drained onto the ground outside, complete with cigarette butts and cotton buds, 2 bathroom cubicles, the one with a door blocked and disgusting. Drinking water was a rusty tap attached to a wall. 








I took a shower (had no choice really) and cooked dinner before the sun set. An early night was had.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Oct 2019)

Day 26 Tuesday October 8 Bell’s Island to Kill Devil’s Hill 77.5km
Falling asleep sometime after 9 pm it was no surprise to be awake at 3 am, but what was surprising was the sound on the tent! Big, wet raindrops were being hurled at the tent making all kinds of strange and unusual sounds. This went on for the next hour or so until the rain stopped, but the wind continued.

I got up at 7 to check out the lay of the land and quickly figured out that my dream of fried eggs for breakfast was not going to work in this wind! I packed up, then tackled the thorny issue of breaking down the tent...without actually breaking the thing!
Let’s just say that it was not easy and this is one of the times when travelling solo has it’s disadvantages! Once on the road, the wind seemed less, but every now and then a gust would make sure I knew it was still there.

I followed the quiet roads back to the main road and then mixed it with the traffic again. A mist turned to rain and with the wind it was not long until I was pretty wet. Not cold, though. Temperature was about 25 C. 
Seeing a 7-11 I turned in for some respite from the rain and hopefully a coffee. 
I’ve never been in a 7-11 before, but I have seen the light and I am converted!! I had coffee, breakfast empanadas, bbq honey chicken and a bananna. In the dry! Although, the airco started to cool me off rapidly. I had a chat with a couple of guys, one of whom had a pistol holstered on his hip. That’s going to take some getting used to.

Back on the road, it was as yesterday, focus on the shoulder, avoid the crap and watch out to the rear. I was heading for Kitty Hawk and would join the ACA Atlantic Coast Route officially today at some point. I was looking forward to that, hoping to get away from the traffic. Silly me! :-)








Without a doubt the worst point of the day was crossing the bridge after Point Harbour.
I was incredibly grateful that I had stopped at a roadside restaurant to sample some typical Southern cooking - Chicken livers with mashed potato & green beans) because without sustenance the crossing would have been more hellish.

Interesting artwork in the gents at my lunch stop







First, there was the wind - diagonally against me. Second the shoulder - less than a meter wide with a big step between it and a crash barrier. Third the traffic. Reasonably frequent and often passing very close, the wake effect adding to the wind to throw me against the step.
I quickly realised that I had to stop whenever a vehicle was passing in the lane beside me. For a truck I had to stop, brace myself and lean in as far away as possible from the truck.
I’ve had better hours cycling! :-)

Not too long after that, I was presented with my own path beside the road for the run down to Kitty Hawk, then back to a shoulder for the run through Kitty Hawk and on to Devil Hills. 







Sand along the road and at junctions was particulalry challenging. 
Thinking of taking a rest day here because I’ve had confirmation that I cannot complete the Outer Banks route and I need to find a link to the mainland route south. That’ll take me by an alligator park but also through some pretty barren areas with a distinct lack of campsites, shops and other services.


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## raleighnut (9 Oct 2019)

Sounds fun so far.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2019)

Day 27 October 09 0km Rest day Kitty Hawk / Kill Hills
I woke up about 6:30 and could hear lots of traffic on the road close by just above the sound of the wind. I hummed & hawed and thought about the route ahead of me. About 100 km to the next accommodations, minimal services and I didn't fancy a wild camp in an area that housed an alligator natural protection area. Brave I ain't! Also, my legs were feeling a bit stiff, so I thought I'd have me a rest day.

I cooked the eggs I'd been carrying for the last 2 days, brewed a pot of coffee and sat down to start this blog. It was cloudy, windy & occasionally drizzly, but not cold at all. 

When that was all done, a few hours work in all honesty, I showered, shaved I've been getting some colour - sunburn or windburn I know not!) & headed off to the Wright Memorial Park. Not as easy as you'd think to get into, but eventually I found my way. It was windy there too! 

There's a hill (now planted with grass) where the Wright brothers used to lug their "gliders" up to launch them - lessons that led them to their first powered flight. I say "gliders" because these were far from the light and sleek creations we glide in today! In their day the hill was sand and getting up was a labour of love, if also a great incentive to stay flying for as long as possible!

I did not climb the hill! 

Mind you, I'm starting to think the whole Wright brothers thing is a bit overblown - I was practically flying at times and I didn't even have a plane!

First Flight!







At 5 I went for some food - and what food!!! The Salt Box cafe close to the campsite - delicious food. Really delicious! I'm thinking of the hardship ahead of me tomorrow! :-)
When I went in it was busy with a sign in the door saying reservations were expected - I didn't have one. As the receptionist looked me over I pointed to another sign that pets were welcome with well behaved owners and introduced her to Hobbes.That swung a seat at the bar. Of course, there were the usual questions about what a grown man is doing toting a battered tiger around the place. When I was leaving Hobbes got a big goodbye - not me!

Dinner! 





While I was enjoying riding the unloaded bike I became aware of a slight wobble in the right crank. Turns out it was very loose! I don't know how this happened. I haven't had the chance to do any poking around down there since the end of last year. A quick tighten with my crank extractor and all seems good.

One thing I'm finding interesting is the event that Halloween is in these parts.
Tonight in the restaurant a partition between the kitchen and bar was covered with a spider web effect and the largest, hairiest fake spider I have ever seen!! When I first saw it I nearly fell of my stool!
Similarly, yesterday, I passed lots of houses with inflatable pumpkins, headstones, ghosts etc. - kids stuff really, but one house had what seemed like dozens of the White Walkers from Game of Thrones with flashing eyes. It terrified me for a moment - a house on the side of the road with the undead walking around! I can't imagine how scary that is at night!

In a similar vein, I've passed a few small graveyards just in from the side of the road. Anything from 4 or 5 to maybe 15-20 headstones. No church nearby. Maybe some houses stretched along the road. I'm normally past them before I realise, but must stop and do some investigating soon.

The campsite is quiet, mostly permanent sites. Nearly all the caravans / mobile homes are raised off the ground. There are marks on the wall of the washroom showing the water levels for two different hurricanes. I should be safe tonight!


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## Pat "5mph" (10 Oct 2019)

Mod Note:
At request of the OP, @HobbesOnTour, I have moved all replies to this thread to a new, companion, chat thread, here:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
For continuity of the report, please leave all comments on the chat thread.
If you forget, don't worry, the Mods team will move your replies to the chat thread.
Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Oct 2019)

Day 28 October 10 Kill Devil's Hill - Engelhard 96km 

We don't skinny dip we chunky dunk - a sign in my breakfast place

Well, the day didn't start much better than yesterday. The wind was up and the clouds dark, threatening rain. I was up for 7 and packed up quickly, rotating the tent before packing to get it as dry as possible after rain in the night.

Setting off, there were drops of rain as I made my way back to the Atlantic Coast Route. Once back on the road things improved - the wind was now at my back, the road was smooth tarmac, the shoulder was wide, well defined and clear of the sand that filled it 2 days ago.








Things got even better when I spied a breakfast place, so I pulled in and ordered a workman's breakfast sandwich and a big cup of coffee. Heaven! It was so good I ordered up some pancakes after. These were amazing - so soft the syrup soaked into them. 
Toby, the co-owner was very friendly and chatty (with everyone who came in) and it was a very pleasant way to start the day. He also confirmed my own idea that I'd have a tailwind for most of the day! Happy news!

Back on the road I was fuelled up and ready for anything. Gizmo was telling me it was 17 C but the wind and the moisture in the air made it feel cooler than that.
I zipped along at a nice steady pace until I met the first of 3 bridges I'd have to cross. Bridges are rapidly becoming my least favourite part of riding in the States. The shoulders are invariably narrow, full of all kinds of debris, there's no protection from the wind and where the bridge surface joins the road surface there is normally some kind of a hole to negotiate.
The roads were big 4 laners and traffic was reasonably heavy until I turned off onto 264 and entered a different world.
A two lane road, perfect surface, hardly any traffic through the Alligator River Park. 







I got excited when I saw my first alligator! But it was a tree branch in the water. After about 10 of these false starts I relaxed my search for them.

No alligators at all. In fact there was a serious dearth of wildlife until I stopped. Once the sound of the wind was gone there was loads to hear, but almost nothing to see. I did spy a few turtles but they slipped into the water as soon as they saw me.

Wildlife watching






Occasionally men fished from bridges, more of a social occasion than a real quest for fish, or so it seemed. 

I was thinking to myself that the name must be a misnomer until I was informed later at a takeout place that there certainly were alligators out there. There is an alligator season - the summer- when they are out in the sun. And bears too! I heard tales of an 800lb bear that regularly raids people's trash cans. In fact, I was told, bears are becoming more of a problem in the locality because they are migrating in search of new homelands as their own forests are removed. There's even 2 bear hunting weeks in the area where people come from all over to shoot bears.

I really have no idea why I'm starting to obsess about seeing some wildlife - whatever it is is likely to scare me half to death and I won't have a clue what to do! 

I rolled into Engelhard in surprisingly good shape I thought, and went looking for the hotel. This is the first town since Kill Devil's Hill / Kitty Hawk and the only accommodation for another good stretch. I was surprised to see signs for a campsite/marina so turned off to find my new home for tonight.

My pitch was right beside the water and putting the tent up was a challenge with the wind. If I messed up the tent was in the water. The "Budweiser" pitch I have christened it - feckin' close to water. 






There's not much in this town, internet included, so I grabbed some takeout to eat at the campsite and tried to figure out my route tomorrow. Again, there's a big gap between accommodation options so it's looking like a long one.

Without internet planning a route can be difficult. I harp on about this every chance I get - Osmand allows me to plan a route offline and then create a gpx file of that route. An adapter cable allows me to hook Gizmo up to my phone and transfer the file. All without internet.

One of the things I am realizing is the scale of this place. Everything is big. Not just my coffee this morning - everything!
The roads are 4 lanes. The pick-ups and SUVs are massive - and getting bigger, it seems. Sometimes there's an older pick-up beside a newer and the old one looks like a kid's toy. Today, the road was straight for miles, then a turn and more miles dead straight. Going by the mileposts, I passed only a brewery that might be classified as a service in the last 40 odd miles. Not a single place to get water, a coffee or something to eat. Not even a town to turn off to. That's a big difference to Europe in my experience.

I've read many journals of people doing in excess of 100 miles per day. I can start to understand why better now. There's not many places to stop and with such big distances between places it makes sense to put the head down and hammer out the miles. I like to stop every hour or so. As slow as the bike is, you can still miss things. Today what I was missing was the noise coming from the land around me. And the chats with the fishermen were good, too. 

Another thing is navigation. It's quite easy - and for me to be saying that says something! 😃.
I think today consisted of 3 turns, 4 if I include the turnoff to the campsite. The junctions are numbered. Write down the direction at the junction and off you go. 






Finally on my thoughts of the day ;-), I've never paid any attention to wind direction when planning a route before. I've always figured that wind is part of the journey and if it's really, really bad I can always zig zag my route. I don't think that's a good plan here. For a start it was very windy. But more importantly there are no other options. There is one road - take it or leave it. 

Hopefully, by the end of tomorrow I'll be back on the (inland) Atlantic Coast Route. With this wind the Outer Banks version would have been a breeze! 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Oct 2019)

Day 29 October 11 Engelhard - Goose Creek State Park 118 km





Dawn by the Budweiser pitch


There's no denying today was a toughie.
The day started cool and thankfully, no wind. During the night was the first time I was awoken by the cold. Until now, a silk liner has been enough. Anxious to get on the road because I had a long day ahead, I scoffed some muesli bars and washed them down with a Pepsi leftover from the night before. Today was going to be another day of long distances between supplies.

My destination for the day was vague. I knew there was a campsite marked on maps near Bath, a state forest, but I had no idea what kind of facilities - all I really needed was water. On top of that, some of these govt. sites can be reservation required. However, this was the only campsite within any kind of reach, so that was the target 

A cool morning was soon warming up and traffic was light along the highway. Still need to pay lots of attention to the shoulder, though.
The wind was the issue. It was coming from the North East with enough force to hit me hard whenever I was heading north - and today there was a fair whack of North.

The prevailing thought for today was that there was nowhere to stop. Literally. No crash barriers on the side of the road to lean on, just grass, sloping down. The couple of times I stopped, cars made a big deal of swerving out of the way of the bike parked in the shoulder. The one place I could stop & sit was on a (high) bridge over a canal. The combination of low wall and long drop left me preferring to stand. On top of that, the heat when I stopped was oppressive. At least on the bike I had a wind to keep me cool.

No place to stop





My first stop was at about 50 km, a small store - the first since Engelhard. I wolfed down a double cheeseburger, some chocolate & a couple of bananas.

Over the day I passed through a few settlements, rather than towns and at least 2 of them had campsites not marked on any maps. I was sorely tempted to stop for the day about 2;30, but pushed on after a cold drink.

I did get to investigate a couple of the roadside cemeteries. From what I can make out, they are all one family. "Davis Cemetery Estd 1984" finally resonated with me after seeing 4 headstones with "Davis" engraved. In my defense it was hot!
Another, set back in a Grove of trees was very peaceful. It had graves from people born in the 1860's. This one had no nameboard but the majority were Gaskins. Good line that family - a lot lived until their 80's or 90's.

Getting close to Bath I met a roadie out for a recovery ride. It was a nice chat as I tried to keep up with him. Not too far from the campsite I pulled into a store & bought some food for the night. 

The campsite is a "primitive" site and has to be one of the finest sites I've ever stayed in.

When I arrived there's a big board with all the rules & a sheet showing vacancies. I saw sites 2,3 & 4 were free (from 14) and cycled past #1. A few minutes later there was no sign of #2. I kept going. Eventually, I saw #2 - reserved. #3 Ditto. #4 occupied. Uh oh.
Thankfully, the Ranger, Doug, was chatting to a couple and came over. A friendlier & more welcoming man hardly exists. 
#3 was mine for the night, no problem. Probably the best site he told me. We had a very interesting chat, giving me advice on other campsites. I told him it was my first time staying in a National Park whereby I was gently but firmly corrected that this was a State park. I was amazed at how much space each pitch had. I cannot see another camper from my own spot. It's about the experience, Doug explained, not the money.
For $15 it was a wonderful experience!

I tried taking a few photos, but quite simply, no photo will do it justice.






I set about cooking dinner as the sun disappeared and had a deer wander to within 10 meters of me while I ate. After an hour of darkness the woods came alive with sounds. A natural orchestra, almost. There were no big, bearlike sounds, although I'm pretty sure the deer was back to nosey around, so I slept like a baby.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Oct 2019)

Day 30 October 12 Goose Creek State Park - New Bern 84 km (some on a ferry)

Every now and then you realise you're in a special place and special places should be treated, well, specially.

In that spirit I changed around my morning routine and let the sun come up and listened to the activity in the forest around me.

Once the chill was out of the air, I got up and prepared a leisurely breakfast of coffee, cous-cous with cinnamon, nuts, chocolate and honey. Food for Kings! Oh, and a banana!

I was in no rush. The place was so quiet I really didn't want to leave. But my space was reserved for that night so instead I took out my maps to see where I was off to now.






Now that I'm back on the official Atlantic Coast Route the ACA maps are relevant again. I had a couple of options to aim for, one further than the other. I already had a gpx route I had copied from RidewithGPS of the route from Richmond to Wilmington so I used Osmand to get me into that route. All should be plain sailing!

Packing up the tent should have been easy after the wind of previous days. Should have been. But a (to me) ginormous spider took up residence in one of the vestibules and did not want to leave! Thank God for my Clickstand, the collapsible stand for my bike. Using that I was able to encourage the critter out and away from the tent. After that I packed up the tent in record time, my head in a constant swivel. I don't like arachnids!

The Ginormous Spider!





It was noon when I was leaving but not a shred of guilt was felt. That spot deserved some time to fully appreciate it. 

My first stop was the town of Bath, the oldest community in the state. To get there Osmand brought me on a shortcut. It's a scale thing again. I zoomed out on the map to the largest scale but one and it seemed like a good idea. Even when the gravel turned to sand I thought it was ok. Then there was grass - easier than the sand, I thought. Then something slithered through the grass and I started to feel less sure. Then something started making noise in the bushes beside me and my confidence was starting to evaporate. I was almost glad when I came to a dead end - that was until I realised that the slithery thing and the noisy thing were waiting for me on the way back! 

The "Shortcut"





Back on the road I hightailed it to Bath, stopping for a bite to eat and some fresh water. On then to catch a ferry (it's been nearly a week since I was on a boat!). 
The ferry was not for another hour but the time passed easily, chatting to the guy in the office and then the owner of a 1960 Studebaker pick-up. This thing is solid!! No crumple zones here! My only knowledge of Studebaker is from the Warren Zevon song and it doesn't paint them in a good light. 
It even smelled like an old car. 











The ferry ride was fast & pleasant, dropping me beside a phosphorus plant on the road to Aurora. It was hot (35C), dusty and very quiet on the road. With the late start, the wait for the ferry I was under the cosh to make the closest campsite before dark. 

At this point I was heading due west, right into the sun and a bit of a headwind. Even though I knew the campsite was miles away, sometimes I'd see a collection of mobile homes, big caravans and an RV or two and get excited. But for nothing. It wasn't a campsite, it was a community.

Literally as the sun was setting I reached the campsite. A closed office, no phone signal, I just rolled in and found the tent area. It's more of a resort type campsite with access to the water. I cycled down to get a sunset shot before it was gone.






Then it was time to set up the tent and have some food - this time my emergency rations - chicken korma. Pour boiling water into a bag, wait a few minutes and eat. Thanks Big Guy!

As I was eating this, one of the guys from a large family party nearby came over with a hotdog, smokey beans and some crisps as well as a miniature bottle of whiskey. When I declined the whiskey he returned with a beer! He even had a disposable knife and fork for me!
I'd spoken to them briefly when they had arrived, but this was a wonderful surprise!
Such an act of kindness and so appreciated! 

There were more spiders! Big, brown ones this time. I couldn't really see them in the dark, but their eyes shine a malevolent yellow when my headtorch picked them out. Two of them circled me as I sat and ate. 
I had to laugh at myself. The last days watching out for bears & alligators and being terrorised by a pair of stalking spiders! 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Oct 2019)

Day 31 October 13 New Bern to White Oak River Campground (Mayville) 48.5km

I was up late last night writing up the day's journal but slept well and woke with the sun. I popped down to the pier area for the dawn view and set about getting myself packed up. Since I had used the last of my coffee yesterday & since the town of New Bern was just over the bridge and was of a size large enough to have a place serving food, my objective was pack, go, eat.

Dawn





Of course, packing up the tent was no easy matter - there was a pair of spiders to consider. Both were in the vestibules & scurried under the groundsheet when I started to break the tent down. Such shuffling & shaking & twisting of a tent was never seen before as I tried to evict my squatters. 

Once packed I headed to the office to pay my bill. I'd no idea it was a "resort" style campsite until I rolled in and was expecting a hefty bill. I toddled in & greeted the two ladies behind the counter & explained my story. I had pitched my tent beside the official tent spots (in case I used the place of a late arrival with a reservation) and since they couldn't put that info into the computer there was no charge! Really! I couldn't believe it & hightailed it out of there before they changed their mind!

New Bern was celebrating "MumFest" a weekend long open air festival of little festivals & hundreds of stalls selling things I had no interest in. Most of the main streets were shut to traffic, but I got directions to breakfast heaven by a traffic volunteer.

After breakfast, outside, there were a group of local older gentlemen who seemed to gather for their regular Sunday chat. I'd had a chat with one of them on the way in so was engaged again on my way out.

It was straight into politics. What effect would Brexit have on Ireland? At first I thought it was a genuine question, but it was really just a mechanism to lecture on how A-rabs (pronounced ay-rabs) had to be kept out and a border in Northern Ireland would help do that. 

Of the four or five guys sitting at the table, I'd say that one had a reasonable grasp of the situation. 

After I had tried to explain (for the third time) that Ireland (Republic of) was not at war with Northern Ireland and England was not Britain nor the UK (that really caused confusion) I was rescued by a Texan who was giving me advice on where to go. He suggested Gruene Hall and was delighted when I told him it was in my plans, that I've even listened to the local radio station at home over the Internet. 
He kept listing places and telling me they were close together…..and I kept pointing to the bike and explaining his "close" and my "close" were literally miles apart. It was fun. Especially when he told me Dallas was only a day's ride from Austin! :-)

Someone else tried to draw me back into a political debate as I tried to leave again. I can't believe bloody Brexit is threatening to spoil my holidays over here!! :-)

Anyway, I hit the road and again there were no services for a little over 30 km. And that was tough because today was hot, hot, hot! It was hitting 35C well before noon, the headwind was definitely warm (I think because I'm a bit away from the water) and the road was straight, flat, wide and with absolutely no cover. At one stage when the sun went behind a little cloud I pulled up just to savour the slightly cooler temperature for as long as possible. Couldn't even get off the bike -nowhere to sit - just straddled the bike and enjoyed feeling cooler for a minute or two.





When I finally got to the filling station I bought a litre of Gatorade and sat in the only shade I could find.

The traffic had been surprisingly busy. I would have expected much less traffic on a Sunday. While the shoulder was wide it was 2 lanes in each direction so some of the autos were zipping close by.

Feeling a little better I headed onwards but soon I was back to square one. Hot, thirsty and now starting to feel a little lightheaded. In Mayville I stopped for another cold drink and contemplated my options; a campsite just outside town or another 45-50 km down the road. The further one was in the middle of nowhere so I decided to have an early day and make use of the town on my doorstep.

I rolled out to the campsite, got myself set up, rode back into town to get the ingredients for dinner and rolled home again.

I've noticed a bit of rust on some of the extremities of the bike so I tackled that and started to clean the chain. I've no lube with me (all flammable materials strictly forbidden on the ship) and haven't been able to see any in any store I've been in. That's when Michael came to my rescue, pulling up on his quad as I had the bike upturned working on it. Michael owns the campsite, having taken it over from his parents. He immediately offered me lube and a bit of history of the site, his life and his return to take care of his dying mother & to take over the business. 
He has his own kids, but they won't be taking it over. It's a heavy responsibility he has, but he carries it lightly, very chatty, friendly and helpful. He introduced me to "Disc Golf", basically like golf but with frisbees! I'd never heard of it, but he assured me it's the coming thing! 






Since this was a Sunday I noticed the churches more today. Obviously today was their busy day. There are a lot of churches. A lot of different denominations, but all Christian. I'd like to attend a service or two here before I leave, just to see what it is like. Religion is a tangible influence in these parts, at least. Lots of houses have the same "Thank You, Jesus" signs in their gardens or yards. 

I also passed a sign today declaring that "a sunset is just Heaven's door ajar". Now, I really like my sunsets, but the idea that when I'm sitting watching the sun go down that I may actually be close to death left me feeling a little cold. 

Today in a local (free) paper that I read with my breakfast, there was a full page article from a local Pastor lambasting "so-called" Christians for not publicly proclaiming their religion and drawing sinners to the one, true faith. In fairness, there was some pretty unChristian language used throughout the article.

On another page there was an article about how to deal with global warming. The answers (from a PhD) were that;
-Global warming is natural, not influenced by man
-Warmer weather was good for us - more food grows in heat, more moisture in the air so less drought.
-Rising sea levels were natural too, but if it became a problem the Dutch could help with pumps.
-CO2 was good for plant growth, the more the better.
To make life more comfortable what was needed was more air-conditioning. The "lefty socialists" wanted to take your air-conditioning away! More cheap power is what is needed.
The end - in so many ways.
I don't think I've ever read or heard of anyone advocating more air conditioning! 
The most shocking thing for me in the paper was a half page community announcement - of all the people arrested since the last copy of the paper, complete with photos and crimes - not alleged crimes. Nearly all the "crimes" were parole violations, one simple assault, one assault on a minor and one drug bust - opium / heroine, cocaine, marijuana, meth. In that case I don't know if he had them all or just one kind. 
One woman, the most middle class looking of them all had an "offence not disclosed" under her picture.
I was left bemused about the idea of "innocent until proven guilty" and then I started to wonder what's the most harmless crime I could be arrested for? Maybe I could get into the paper too?! :-) Funny, maybe, but in a small community a relatively minor transgression could mark someone for a long time. 

Since today seemed to be the day of churches and politics, a question formed in my mind - how is it that a a small community can have so many different churches yet only two political parties? 
Is politics really so much more black and white than religion?

Just after I'd decided to go to bed I felt a massive drop of water land on my head. In panic mode I grabbed my hanging laundry, closed up the tent and was treated to a thunder & lightning display for about three hours. The water poured down, lightened, then poured down again. The storm moved away & then came back again. I eventually fell asleep but the rain seemed to last most of the night.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2019)

Day 32 October 14 White Oak River Campground (Mayville) - Fulcher's Creek 69 km

After the storm last night, today was a bit of a slower start. There had been a lot of rain, so much, in fact, that three separate mobile homes / caravans had people busy on their roofs. 

As I was getting my breakfast organised I had a little visitor from a neighbouring caravan. The previous evening it had been Jake, a 9 week old bull terrier puppy. This morning it was a very inquiring 4 year old who didn't introduce himself.
"Whadat?", he asked pointing at a clip on my pannier. Ditto a strap. Again with another clip. And so it went on. And on. Then I introduced the Russian doll of the stove world to the conversation; my Trangia.
I took it out of the bag - "Whadat?"
I removed the strap - "Whadat?"
I took off the lid/frying pan -"Whadat?"
I lifted the kettle - "Whadat?"
I removed the (nested) bowl - "Whadat?"
You see where this is going and I haven't even had my coffee yet!!

Anyways, after moving the tent into the sun to dry it, I got packed & hit the road for 10. It was warm, but the wind was not as hot as yesterday. The ride started wonderfully, quiet 2 lane, minimal traffic, but best of all it was a lot more broken up than before. There were bends! There were hills! There was shade. Still not a lot of places to pull in, except at people's houses, which I was reluctant to do. 











I approached the outskirts of Jacksonville and there was a bike lane! Brilliant! But it wasn't to last. Leaving Jacksonville I was hailed by a guy walking on the other side of the road. I saluted him and pulled in, waiting for a break in traffic to cross over to him. I should have realised when he started shouting at me that something wasn't quite right. When I got over he told me he could give me directions. He wanted to know where I was headed but anything I said just produced a blank look. That's when the penny dropped - he was either drunk or high, so I thanked him for his help, turned around and joined a massive highway. No cycle path here! Just a shoulder that slithered from narrow to nothing. Taking my exit was not a pleasant experience - across 4 lanes of traffic. And that was the rest of the day, almost. Highway! More Highway. Highway Feckin' 17, South.

The only good thing I can say is that there were frequent service spots. But fun? Absolutely not. At one point I took out the maps in case the gps file was in error, but no, this was where I was meant to be.

Highway Feckin' 17





Trucks were horrible - the draft they created made me unstable. Junctions were a nightmare as cars pulled in to turn right, there was invariably a load of gravel in the spot where cars didn't drive when they either joined or left the highway and cars joining the highway weren't too bothered about cyclists.

On top of this, the bike had developed a grating squeak that seemed to be from the bottom bracket. There had been a lot of rain last night, so maybe that was the problem. The couple of filling stations I stopped at had loads of products for engines, but no simple lubricating oil. 
As I cycled I was wondering about the bottom bracket. Sure, it's new! I only put it in last year. Then I started to estimate the distance it had covered. Maybe 5-6000 km is not quite new anymore.

There were whoops when I finally got off the Highway, heading for Snead's Ferry. Then the squeak really became an issue without the sound of 2 lanes of traffic whizzing by.

Deciding that this needed proper investigation and maybe a new Bottom Bracket I decided to shorten my day and head off course to a campsite.

And what a campsite! It's $35 for me, but I have a rec room with 2 pool tables, fussball, air hockey, arcade games (Pacman, anyone?), a big screen TV and a sheltered patio area to cook & eat. There are 3 sites occupied - I've met them all- and best of all the owner has lent me a tub of grease to investigate the creaks!






I got my wet clothes from last night up to dry in the sun. Tent up to dry out, all my sleeping things in the sun to air and then I tackled the bike. I removed both the pedals and checked the seals on the BB. They seem good. I regreased everything, reattached the pedals and went for a test ride. Creak is gone!
Tomorrow will be the big test. In any case, I'll have time in Nashville so I will probably invest in a new BB there.






Tomorrow I'll be back along the coast for the run to Wilmington. I'm definitely starting to have sympathy for touring cyclists in this part of the world! In Europe we're spoilt for choice & facilities. I've seen a handful of cyclists in the week or so I've been here, all but two in full cycling gear on road or high end MTBs. I've seen one couple out just for a casual ride. No touring cyclists yet. 

I had a real rhythm going in the early part of the day, but the Highway flummoxed me. Constantly scanning the mirror then the shoulder for debris. I'm so glad I have the mirror!

I've found out more about the cemeteries! There's one right at the entrance to the campsite! They're family sites, scattered all over the state, often going back to the time the family owned the land. Oftentimes the land has changed ownership, but the graves are respected. Another resident was telling me where locally a restaurant has a few graves on it's land and a mother and her son are buried in a field beside the campsite.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Oct 2019)

Day 33 October 15 Fulcher's Creek - KOA Wilmington 85 km

One of the great things about this part of my trip is the language - I can talk to people easily. As a result, today got off to a slow start as I chatted with Tim, the park manager, the owner & various other people who all stopped by. 

There was general good humour - the five foot rule means that if you're within 5 feet of a car then they can hit you and variations thereof. Then the gradual move into dangerous areas and, of course, politics. 

This campsite was hit hard when the ACA had to change the route because after 9/11 there was no more thru passage for a Marine base locally. That means that Michael (I think), the owner, and a local for years has to go to the base 3 days before his kid plays a soccer game so that he can get a pass to drive through on the day of the match. On the other hand, he pointed out how the Marines hit town at the weekend, pick up women & bring them back to the base no questions asked.

There was talk of the Southern border and apparently about 100,000 people attempting to cross daily.
There was also a lot of resentment towards the ones that succeeded and towards the "Sanctuary Cities" that won't send them back.
I can't comment on the veracity of those claims but these guys believed it and spoke passionately, but respectfully, of their views. 

At least there was no Brexit talk today! 

They also think I'm a bit nuts. Mexico & Central America is pretty scary. I keep telling people that most people are good & kind, no matter where you go - or at least that's been my experience up to now.

I did get one bit of serious advice, though. "In Mexico, if someone walks up to you, you know the first thing you gotta do is?"
I started to answer how a smile is often the best thing to bring with you when I was abruptly cut off.
"Speak", he said. "Speak and let them know you're not an American!".

Tim, the manager was a character. I think I could have stayed for a week and listened to stories. One in particular was about moonshine & its prevalence. There is still a lot of moonshine distilled & consumed, especially in the mountains. I'm intrigued by this, given the fact that hard liquor is only sold from Govt. stores (except in bars & some restaurants). They're funny little places where you stand at a counter and order what you want. Your order is placed on a turntable that swings out to you. They're normally on the edge of town or just on the side of the road. (I only know this because I stopped at one a few days ago looking for water!)

Anyway, I finally got the road with a blue sky and a squeak free bike!
And what a start. Little country roads, bends, hills, pretty houses and then I cycled right past it - my first alligator!

I'll tell you, there was a squeak alright when I processed the image! And it wasn't from the bike!

I turned around, took out my phone and cycled past it a couple of times, Knight like, armed with a camera instead of a lance. It's a good thing there were no damsels in need of my assistance! 
Instead I scanned the road looking for a suitable place to park the bike ready for an emergency exit, dismounted and approached as close as I dared (not close at all!) and snapped him. Thankfully he didn't snap back!!

My first alligator! 





Hopping back on the bike I really felt alive! I was scanning everywhere, but no more wild animals were spotted. Just before Surf City I had to cross another bridge with a tiny shoulder, but then the shoulder opened up to a proper cycle lane, smooth as silk as I rejoined the Atlantic Ocean.










The whole run through Surf city was very pleasant riding and I stopped several times to have a look at the sea. There's something about water that I can't resist. Throw some boat's in the mix and I'm as happy as Larry.






Typical houses along the shore road.





I could see another bridge ahead so pulled in for a second breakfast. As it turned out, my waitress was from Offenbach, near Frankfurt, in Germany - a place I used to live! Small world!

Continuing on, I took the bridge which had a lovely wide shoulder and a separate path for pedestrians! 

And then it all went pear shaped. Rapidly. I was back on Highway Feckin' 17. The noise! The stink of burned fuel. It was back scanning front & rear and everything was just generally unpleasant.
I decided to knuckle down and get through it just before a place called Hampstead. I remember it well because that's where the shoulder ran out. This was no joke. I pulled in countless times when I saw a truck coming. I had all kinds of vehicles whizzing past me at 55 mph as I tried to dance through the debris on the edge of the road. Hampstead is a long town all along the highway it seems, and I struggled along hoping to see the shoulder reappear. If a shoulder reappeared I would forgive the road everything!! I was sorry! It's such a lovely road!

I turned off. I couldn't take it anymore. I pulled in and plotted a route away from the damned highway to get me to a campsite. This road was busy too, only a 2 lane, and I had the pleasure of a red pick-up burping on me. As he went past he changed gears & revved the engine blasting a big cloud of foul smoke behind him - directly in front of me. I've read of this and I'm fairly sure this was deliberate. I had a few close passes and aggressive honks here too, but after a turnoff for an Interstate all was quiet again. Such bliss! 





It's ironic in a way because it was one of the questions the guys asked me this morning - had anyone run me off the road yet? To be fair, most of the drivers have been very courteous. There are a lot of traffic lights so traffic tends to come in packs then disappear for a while. If the first car behaves well, the chances are the rest will. If the first car passes close, then the rest tend to follow. 

I took a roundabout route, cutting through a few large housing estates. This was definitely a middle class area and quite different to most of the places I have cycled through so far (Kitty Hawk & Surf City excepted). A lot fewer pick-up trucks and far more "Suburban" cars. In reality huge SUVs. 

The last little bit was back on a busy road on the edge of Wilmington but I was so relieved to roll in and claim a spot for the night.

Check-in in was interesting. My spot is less than 150 meters from the office but I was given an escort to bring me to my spot. Having navigated to here from Virginia I assured the lady that I could make my own way, but she insisted, pointing out there was a one way traffic flow and I'd have to follow it the whole way around the park. On a bicycle! Thankfully, my escort (in a golf cart) let me take the shortcut.

I grabbed a cold beer at check in as well and as soon as the bike was parked up cracked it open and sucked it down washing the taste of 17 away.






Looks like tomorrow is going to be a wet one!


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Oct 2019)

Day 34 October 16 Rained off near Wilmington 0km.

There was some unGodly explosions against the tent about 3 am. I woke up with a start until I figured out it was the predicted rain.

It sounded pretty heavy. I read for a while until my heart slowed down & fell back asleep.

Sometime about 6:30 I woke again to a slightly less intense bombardment. I checked the radar on the Windy app and could see the very, very slow progress of a large and angry looking raincloud. At this rate of progress there would be lots of rain until the early afternoon, at least. 

Going on the basis that it sounded worse than it was, I threw on some clothes and prepared to test the conditions. 
Hah! It was pouring down.
I lay back down and considered my options. There was a fair whack of Kms to ride before I had any accommodation options. There was a ferry, too and depending on my timing I could be waiting a while in the rain. On the other hand, my book was very good and there were easy food options in the neighbourhood.
I undressed again and went back to bed.

Halloween decorations


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Oct 2019)

Day 35 October 17 near Wilmington to near Grissettown 122km (some on a ferry)

Some eejit was playing his sound system a bit loud last night & kept me awake. Grrrrrrrrr!

I was awake a bit later than usual as a result and wasted no time getting packed up. An older employee came over to me, having heard about my trip & we chatted. He asked permission to take a photo when the bike was packed.

It took a while packing the tent because the pitch was on a sandy gravel. I wanted as much of it out from the tent & footprint as possible. I get why they do it, but grass pitches are so much easier. My usual pegs were no good in the sandy gravel, but I knew this was likely & have a few different pegs.

Once ready, my photographer showed up & I was on my way.
Immediately I could see a difference from the day before. Yesterday the side of the road was one long puddle of indeterminate depth. Today, all was dry. I had to brave a busy 4 laner for a few hundred meters, then my route veered off into the suburbia of Wilmington. Wealthy suburbia with lovely smooth tarmac. I avoided pretty much most of the city, riding through parks, suburbs and some very exclusive estates.






Going through one of the areas I came across emergency phone boxes every few hundred meters. Press a button and you're patched in directly to the Police. These were just in one area. I found it a bit disconcerting and could determine no reason why they were placed and placed so frequently.



When I eventually rerejoined the official route it was along the beaches then on a major highway down to Fort Fisher where I'd catch a ferry across the Cape Fear river. Thankfully, there was a decent shoulder for most of the way.
I fancied stopping off at the site of Fort Fisher, but since it was so close to the ferry I thought it better to check the ferry times first. As I rolled up, the ferry was in & departure was in 5 minutes. No fort today.
The crossing was quick and I chatted to one of the crew (another couple on their way to Florida was on the ferry before mine!) as well as another cyclist out for the day. More photos taken!









Once on the other side, I turned off the official route and started to make my own way on what was a pretty straight, busy road. Again, there was a shoulder that was adequate for most of the way. The traffic was fine, but the noise was very invasive. There was a fairly strong wind that slowed me down anytime I was heading in a westerly direction. I'd estimated that it was 55km to the ferry, then another 40 or so to the campsite. It was a beautiful day, blue skies, sun shining, but noticeably cooler than other days. Other than the wind, a great day for biking.










I pulled into the campsite about 5:30 and something seemed a little off. Thankfully there was a big communications mast in the next field so I had a phone signal. I called the number to be told that this was an RV park - it didn't take tents. In fairness, the lady was quite nice, explaining they didn't have washrooms, toilets etc.

Out with Google Maps to find another one, plot a quick course (not using Google!!) & headed off at full speed. I don't like biking at night and I particularly don't want to be biking here in the dark. There are many imperfections in the road surfaces that will be a nightmare in the dark, even with lights.

I'd tried calling the new campsite, but they closed at 5, although the website did show that they accepted tents.

Even though I was racing the sun, I was also racing into the sun, so made a point of weaving over and back as much as practical to be as visible as possible.

I made the campsite just as the sun was setting, tried to follow the instructions for late arrivals, failed & went off to set up the tent. The pitch is beside a beautiful little river, I'm all alone, have my own stone picnic table. Best of all, there's a covered area with sinks, 2 sets of 4 plates for cooking on and a vending machine for drinks.

I set up the tent, using no light. I did not want to see sets of yellow eyes staring at me out of the darkness - what I don't know can't hurt me! I put on some warm clothes - this is the first cool evening - and cooked up a dinner of noodles, frankfurters in smoked beans washed down with something I always wanted to try - a root beer (vile!).

There was no hanging around outside tonight! The sky is clear & full of stars, but the thermometer on the bike is reading 8 Celsius.

Sometime today, before the ferry I hit the 1000km milestone, based on the bike computer. It's been acting up a bit lately - the contacts are not very good. I think the heavy rain banjaxed them yesterday. I'll see if I can get it going tomorrow.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

Day 36 Friday October 18 near Grissettown to Myrtle Beach 80km

I didn't quite realise it last night in the fading light, but the park was well packed with lots of RVs & caravans, but I had the whole tent section to myself.





I was at the office just after it opened at 8 to pay. As is now usual with the more formal campsites the processing of my I.D. was causing issues. At the end we hammered through & I went off to prepare breakfast.

While gathering my gear to pop over to the luxurious kitchen area I noticed the tyre on the trailer was looking a bit flat.

After a sustaining breakfast of freeze dried oats & fruit (quite delicious really) I tackled the flat tyre & found this sticking out of the tyre!






After that, I noticed some holes on the pannier that rides on the inside of the trailer. I'm thinking back to a few days ago and the bridge with the kerb that I had to pull into a few times because the traffic was so close. Not wanting to lose any more time I applied some gaffer tape inside & outside. I have some gorilla tape I'll dig out when I've a bit more time.


A quick repair, I packed up & hit the road. Initially I was on small, relatively quiet roads, then a 2 lane road with barely a shoulder & relatively heavy traffic. Still, it was better than 17!














I crossed into South Carolina and straight away the white line marking the shoulder had a vicious rumble strip. Outside the line was too narrow to cycle in do I had to cycle inside it, taking up more space than was strictly necessary. Anytime I was put under pressure and had to go over the line the rumble strip rattled the hell out of me.

This was plantation country in both States, but most are now golf courses and property developments. There were advertisements for estate agents (as opposed to properties), all with pictures of the agents. Most of the signs mentioned lifestyle over specifics and prices were listed like "from low 200s", or more likely "from 350s to 700s".

There were "model homes" (never houses), "Agents on Duty", and I even saw a sign advertising a "Property Counsellor". Presumably for the 200s houses in case they felt inferior.

I was on the dreaded Highway 17 again - but only for a moment as I was crossing it, then through some countryside and continued through some gated communities. While these had gates, they weren't closed & I saw no signs barring entry to common cyclists. These were fantastic riding - smooth surfaces, practically no traffic and lots to see - mainly how the other half live!






By taking these diversions I was missing the worst of the build up to Myrtle Beach and when I found myself back on the main road I had a cycle path pretty much to myself. For a cycle path it had some flaws; it was mainly made of slabs of concrete that seemed to have been used by a giant playing hopscotch when they were first laid - sometimes there was a ramp to fly off, other times there was a nasty step to negotiate. Also, on the path I had to use pedestrian crossings at junctions - a lot of waiting. Still, much, much better than the 4 lane road with no shoulder.





Temperature wise, it was mid to high 20s for most of the day, reasonable enough for cycling, although the wind was ever present. Since Myrtle Beach is a big resort I decided to try the local State Park for camping, expecting this to be cheaper. Silly me! $49 excluding taxes!! The most expensive so far!! Too add fear to injury, I was made to read a page informing me of the dangers of snakes & what to do if I encounter one - apparently it is not to use my foot to measure it up for a pair of boots!

After that, the warning of Racoons stealing my food was a bit hard to take seriously!

When I told the nice lady checking me in that this was all a bit too much, that a couple of nights ago I was being terrorised by big spiders, she gave me one of those looks that made me feel "special".

The pitch is nice. There are a couple of women in the pitch next door. They have a tent, have decorated a tree with fairy lights, have their picnic table covered with a tablecloth and on it the most magnificent array of camping essentials - not!

On the other side a family arrived late & with a real family effort got their tent up & a fire pit in record time. They had a whole lot of fun doing it too!

Dinner was more noodles & beans and some coffee. After a good feed and with the temperature dropping I knelt down at my tent and was hit with the most vicious cramp in my leg. I could do nothing but drop on my back and suffer in as close to silence as I could. It lasted a good 10 minutes. I don't normally suffer cramp and I've been paying attention to my hydration. Then again, up until a few weeks ago, I'd hardly ridden a bike any kind of distance for the last nine months.

At least a snake didn't pick that moment to pay me a visit!







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

Day 37, Saturday, October 19, Myrtle Beach to Huntington Beach National Park 37km

It had been my plan to wake up well before dawn & utilising the campsite's wifi listen to the Ireland v New Zealand ¼ final of the Rugby World Cup. The Wifi Gods, however, were cruel (or perhaps kind in the overall sense) denying me access. I tried a few times, but eventually rolled over & went back to sleep. The bad news would be known soon enough.

I was in no big rush this morning. I had the plan to pootle down the coast to another, hopefully cheaper, State Park.

I had a leisurely breakfast, chatted to my neighbour, on a road trip of sorts of her own. Had a whole pot of coffee. I need filters! Only one left. Chatted to a ranger, rain incoming in the afternoon. He was almost right - it started at 11;55 & I was rolling out at 11;58. 

Nothing too heavy at first, but it gradually increased. Once out of the park I had to cross the main road (4 lanes) & follow the cycle path until it ran out. Then it was my usual detour through a gated community - except this time it really was gated! And closed! Feck! Back to the road. Thankfully, there were a series of big stores along the road that meant I could ride away from the road, if a bit circuitously. It's something to see how quickly the rain forms puddles all along the side of the roads, and given the debris & cracks and holes I was very happy to avoid the road until the next turn off to try my gated community trick again. Busted again! At least now I just had to struggle on a little bit further & then take a left onto some quiet roads. Easy Peasy! Except it wasn't. I got across the first 2 lanes ok, but the second two must have taken a good 15 minutes to cross. I was wet, starting to get cold, my eyes were going blurry trying to judge distance & speed, but once across, all was good again.







I tried to check something off my to-do list - a visit to Walmart - but when I tried parking my bike in their vestibule (so I could see it from the store) I was told that was forbidden! I didn't fancy leaving it out of sight so continued on. It has not been an issue up to now.

Last night as I ate my noodles & beans I realised I haven't cooked anything yet, so since today was a short one I'd been looking for supplies. I found them in a small fruit & veg store picking up ingredients for dinner as well as getting a taste of a local delicacy - boiled peanuts. They're boiled in the shell and mushy when you open them up. OK,a bit bland but nothing great. There are also Cajun versions - they might be better.

Since I was in no great hurry I stopped for a coffee & continued on. I was back beside a big road again but there was a bike path, of sorts.





Then more quiet roads until the last few kms were a wonderful track to the park.










These parks have a kind of gatehouse where visitors pay their entrance (not campers) so I rolled up, rather wet but happy that my journey was nearing the end.

"I'm here for the spa treatment and the saunas", I said to the man in his office who looked at me like I was an invader - unsure of whether to deal with me himself or call in the National Guard for back-up.

Realising my humour was falling on deaf ears I explained I was hoping to camp for the night. I was told that was very unlikely - they were full up, but to go on up to the Ranger's office anyway.

There was loads of space. I opted for the primitive camping hoping to save some $$. $39,90! At least there were no snake warnings!! But I did get a weather warning - incoming storm tonight. Also, a friendly lady gave me some paper I can use for coffee so I don't have to choose between evening coffee or morning coffee! Yaaaay!





I found my spot, away, away at the back of the site & set up the tent in the rain. Again, it's gravel underneath which is rapidly losing its appeal for me, tonight especially, needing to be securely tied down.

Once up, I put my gear in the vestibules, got some water & settled down for a long evening.

Before it got dark I made my dinner, pasta with my own tomato/garlic/onion sauce and shrimps. Delicious, if I say so myself.





Once dark, the wind started to pick up so some coffee was made & the Kindle taken out.

Reservations are expected in this part of the world. State Parks can fill up very quickly (as I was checking in one of the assistants was trying to confirm an RV reservation for January or February next and there was very little available!). Reservations are anathema to me. I hate them! I find they reduce the spontaneity of the road. I'm finding that most check ins are a little "ruffled" due to not having a reservation. But the fact of the matter is that for a foreigner without an American I.D. an online reservation is difficult, if not impossible or a phone reservation takes ages!

Every time I'm asked for I.D. I submit my Irish Passport Card (a credit card sized "copy" of my old passport - it's two years out of date! :-) But it's still me! They're looking for an address, so I'm often asked for a driving license - no problem - here's my Dutch one. More confusion because that has no address either! Eventually, we settle on an address and then we move on to phone numbers. A Dutch number does not compute! One lady a couple of nights ago was amazed that I had no I.D. without an address. She thought I was on the run! I guess over here,whenever you move you need to get a new driver's license or other I.D.

Oh! Nobody's ever noticed my I.D. is out of date!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2019)

Day 38, Sunday, October 20, Huntington Beach State Park to Wild Camp Francis Marion National Forest 80km

Last night was more than a little stormy and the wind made some terrifying sounds whipping through the trees. I know this because it kept waking me up. On top of the wind, there was more very heavy rain.

Thankfully, the worst seemed over as the sun rose. I waited a little while then hopped up, eager to get on the road. My hopes were stymied when the tip of one of my poles stayed in place as I was pushing the pole through the sleeve. At first I thought an entire pole segment was lost in the sleeve. Not an easy or speedy job when dealing with a wet tent. The other thing was that the rain fell with such force that the whole bottom of the tent was covered in sand/grit.

The day started off pleasant enough. It was spitting rain, dark grey clouds overhead drive the humidity up, but I was on a dedicated bike path beside the main road.






The wind was swirly and according to the forecast should change direction during the day.

Eventually, I knew I was going to end back up on Highway 17, but hoped for less traffic since this was a Sunday. 

But first I had to pass through Georgetown, the third city eastablished in the Colony. It is pretty with lots of streets covered by arching trees. 






When 17 came, it wasn't too bad. As usual now for South Carolina, the white line marking the edge of the road was a rumble strip, but I had just enough space inside it to manage - most of the time.

I was feeling seriously underpowered, so much so that I stopped to check the brakes or the trailer weren't jammed. A breakfast & big coffee didn't help.

The problem was another bridge. Reasonable shoulder with a big step, but the shoulder itself was next night to impossible to cycle through. It was full of sand, mud and all the usual debris. I walked the bike over, me walking on the step, leaning over and pulling the bike along the shoulder. Once past the bridge I had the chance to turn off & took it gratefully, back to quieter roads….until I hit it again!

This time I had to take the lane as there was no space past the rumble strip. Thankfully, the traffic was light and all bar one passed me in the other lane.

Now it was coming up to decision time. I'd cycled 60 odd km and had at least another 70 to go to reach a campsite. The quickest way was to stick on 17, the nicer way was to turn off & take some back roads. I turned off.





I entered a whole other world! I think I rode for a couple of hours and encountered 2 cars! I passed real plantations, not real estate ones. For someone whose ideas of South Carolina were inspired by John Jakes' North & South trilogy, this was the real South Carolina! 






























I turned off onto a back, back road, made of sand and all hopes of making the campsite evaporated. I really didn't care. I came across an old church with graveyard that I explored. A lot of people live to a good old age in these parts! People born in the 1890's dying in the 1990's.

I've noticed something here I haven't seen before. On headstones, where one partner has died, as well as their information (dates etc.) there is also the name of the (still living!) spouse. I find this a little odd, not to mention the fact that some people will be literally looking at their own tombstone!

Today, there was one more twist - the wife had died, but at the top of the headstone were the husband's name and date of birth, (but no death date) followed by all her details. Even in death, the Husband has top billing!

I continued on down the sandy road, going very slowly. As the sun was sinking and I still had a wet tent, I tried my Osmand app for camping options. It showed a Hunter's site, with water, about 6 km away. Turning back, I headed for it until it became obvious that while I could walk there, I'd never get the bike there.





So, I've pulled in about 50m from the road (3 cars have passed in 3 hours) & set up the tent, discreetly.

I'm low on water so had one of my emergency boil in the bag meals & some trail mix. Other than the mosquitoes it's a nice little spot. 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2019)

Day 39, Monday October 21, Wild Camp to Mount Pleasant 65km

The night passed peacefully enough, although there were animal sounds that I could not place. I did wake up once, startled, but I heard nothing else & fell back to sleep 





I got up not long after the sun had risen enough to wake me (a bit delayed by the height & density of the trees around me), packed up & hit the road. I was hoping that the sand might be a bit firmer, but there was no real change - 8kph was about the max.





After about 5km of this I hit some proper road & began to make up some time. It was glorious cycling and hardly any traffic at all. Soon I had another choice to make & back on to the side roads or stay on the hardtop & run back to 17. I was anxious to get to a campsite as early as possible today to make contact with home - a young man's birthday - so that was playing on my mind.





The side road was seductive, she seemed firm and curvy, if not a little mysterious, so not for the first time in my life, my head was overruled.

This road charmed me, led me astray, kept me to herself (I met one auto in about 3 hours!), and almost swept me off my feet!
This was, to my gentle sensibility, adventure cycling! In the middle of nowhere, bouncy roads, woods all around me, swamps on either side of the road. With a small bit of imagination it's easy to believe that I'm exploring somewhere new& exciting - well, it's new & exciting to me! A little make-believe can't be a bad thing.
After a couple of hours I stopped for some breakfast - jerky & trail mix. My only concern was water, but while I might get a bit uncomfortable, it wasn't going to be dangerous.

I was so happy I was taking this route. There was no comparison to Highway 17 and its noise & traffic. 

























I went on and on, stopping regularly just to soak up the feeling. 

Eventually, I was back on a road that quickly started to be occupied by heavy trucks. This was a wood harvesting area and the trucks moved fast! I joined 17 to get over a river & promptly pulled off it again to try my luck through another gated community - no chance! This one was manned at the gate. A few hundred meters down the road, I turned onto another side road and was rewarded with a cycle path through the buildup to Mount Pleasant. Again, there were communities on both sides of the road - wealthy ones. Very wealthy. Truth be told, I think my bike path was more for golf carts than for bikes.

Golf carts are big business here. They're used in the big RV sites for people to get around; they can be rented in any of the beach areas I've passed through and they are as common as cars in most of the gated communities I've seen. I've actually seen one or two on golf courses!!

Before I knew it, I was at my campsite for the day. Doing some research at check in, I've booked for two nights. Charleston, my first intermediate destination is only 9 miles away with a bike path the whole way so I can base myself here.






When I couldn't get the WiFi to work, he generously brought me to the office & let me hook into the boss's internet do I could make my call.

Then, I had loads to do! The tent was quite wet this morning (condensation), I had some laundry to do & desperately needed a shower. Once all that was done, it was off to Walmart for a shopping trip. I really needed some lubricating oil for the chain on the bike. It's been pished on twice within a few days and the chain is looking very dry & unloved. 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2019)

Day 40 Tuesday October 22 Touristy day in Charleston 80km

Wow, was it humid last night! Hot and sticky & difficult to sleep.

I was awake well before dawn having slept fitfully and would have done one of my favourite tricks - visit a city as it wakes up - but I'd been having trouble with my front light powered from my dynohub. 

Thinking that this might be as good an opportunity as any I had a quick scan of Google and decided to check out a bike shop for a possible repair.

Having being told that there was a "brilliant" bike path I set off the 13 miles I was told it was to Charleston. Let's just say my idea of a brilliant bike path and the other guy's differ about as widely as the bridge into Charleston - although, in fairness, the bridge was great. 





Once in the city proper, I headed to the bike shop where they were a bit hesitant - I wanted the light & charger rewired with soldering and shrink-wrap. They reckoned only one guy in the city could do it, so I gave him a call. 

There are times when you talk to someone and you know they are a bullshooter. This was not one of those times. Jeff, or old Jeff, to give him his proper moniker, knew his stuff so I headed out the other side of Charleston.

Let's just say the Charleston Bike Company is the place for workmanship and knowledge. A very happy biker, I set off back into Charleston to explore.

Now, Charleston to me is a total flight of fancy. There is no substantial or sensible reason for me to be here - other than the fact that I wanted to visit. In fact, it's added approximately 1000 km to my route to Nashville, denying me the chance to see Jason Isbell perform in the Ryman theatre (formerly the Grand Ole Opry). It has also proven to be a more difficult ride than I had anticipated. What I know of the city is from the novels of John Jakes and my impression has been coloured by a girl from more than 25 years ago who was never more than a colleague!

But, the old town of Charleston is pretty. The edges may be touristy, but the centre is not much changed. People still live in these houses, some spectacular, almost beyond belief. I circled, I wandered up and down streets. I looked at the market area but left as it was full of tat and tourists. I explored more streets. Chatted to a few locals, who were, to a one, charming & hospitable.




































While it had been threatening rain as I first came into the city, now it was bright & sunny. Really, it could not have been nicer. While I was standing on a street just soaking in the views in each direction a cat came over to me to make friends. I dislike cats intensely. I'm of the opinion that they are intent on world domination, if they haven't already succeeded. But they will not leave me alone! A sign that it was time to move on!

I had no real interest in exploring the modern side to Charleston - my interest was solely in the historical and the romantic. Due to the bike repair detour, I had missed my chance to catch a ferry out to Port Sumter which was the site of the start of the Civil War. (The Confederates fired on the Union fort, forcing the Union soldiers to surrender. They then occupied the fort and were swiftly blockaded from the sea by the Union navy). Truth be told, I didn't fancy being in a big group of tourists (there were a lot in the city) on a boat, then the confined spaces of the fort. Wandering around on the bike was enough for me.

Leaving the city behind and heading to the bridge again, I had a huge sense of satisfaction for doing something that was no more than a flight of fantasy, a figary with no rational explanation other than I wanted to do it. 

I returned to the campsite by a different route, just to keep things interesting & stopped of for a Mexican, just to finish off the special day.

While I struggled to make a food choice, the beer (it was a beer day!) choice flummoxed me, so I asked the waitress to pick one. A guy at another table told her what to bring me and that started an interesting conversation between myself, himself and his eating buddy. The conversation flowed from beer to music to fishing - the fisherman of the pair agreed with my observationd that it was less about the catching and more the social occasion or time away from normal life. Good food, beer & conversation. A great way to end a great day.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (25 Oct 2019)

Day 41 Wednesday October 23, Mount Pleasant to Wild Camp after Cross 108km

Last night was cooler so I slept better.
Today was a bit of a psychological leap since I was now turning west and making my own way to Nashville. No more ACA routes for me! I had a number of options to choose from. I had been leaning towards a southern route via Augusta & Atlanta that would have me miss the worst of the Appalachians. Or, I could take a more northerly route, but more hilly. Since I was in a good mood I chose the hilly one! 

I got up, made breakfast of porridge & honey, washed down with coffee and did a reorganisation of my bags as well as repairing the damaged pannier properly. I also checked over the bike and noticed that a bolt on the trailer had worked itself loose. As well as the rack for the two panniers, there's an extra rack attached at the front. When the bolt becomes loose, the whole trailer will wobble.

Satisfied, I started to pack up, break down the tent & get ready to hit the road. There was a cleanup crew busy in the campsite, tidying up all the leaves that were falling down. They had petrol driven leaf blowers, as well as big powerful fans on wheels that would clear entire roads. 
The Campsite





Leaving the Campsite





I knew I had a bit of a longish day ahead of me, and there were times when I had to force myself to slow down and savour the moment.

Setting off, the trailer immediately had a bad wobble. I stopped, adjusted some things to make sure it was evenly balanced. A little better, but not much. Since I was going to be on a highway in a few minutes I stopped for a fuller investigation. I pumped up the tyre, although it was ok pressure wise & then I saw it - the bolt had worked it's way loose already! The only option now was some kind of a locknut to hold it in place. The only problem is that it is in an almost inaccessible place. For about half an hour I was contorting myself & the trailer to get the nut on. Finally, success! I packed up again & gingerly set off. The bolt held, the wobble was minimalised, but not fully solved. Maybe my bag reorganisation was not such a good idea! 

Now, finally, ready to hit the road I said my goodbyes to Highway 17 as I crossed it for the last time and followed pretty much the same route as I had coming in until about 15 km down the road. Then I was on a quiet 2 lane, but with big, fast trucks. I continued on, back through the forest I had been in a couple of days ago, but this time on proper roads. As I went deeper the roads got quieter and for an hour or so I met one car.






I was heading for Monck's Corner where it got quite busy, but I was soon onto a smaller 2 lane that was busy enough, but had a reasonable shoulder outside the rumble strip. 

Cycling along here I saw my second alligator! Beside the shoulder was a grass verge about 2 or 3 meters wide, after that a wide ditch filled with water. The alligator was lying on the bank opposite to me and lunged into the water as I rode by, making a huge splash. For a second I had no idea what I had just seen - it was all so fast! Then it hit me & the adrenaline kicked in. I powered the pedals not knowing if he was coming after me. I became acutely conscious of my bare legs spinning & how tasty they must look. I chanced a quick look behind but nothing was in pursuit. Then I thought about turning around for another pass! It's funny how the mind works sometimes - from "must flee" to "oh, let's have another look" in 5 seconds flat.







There's no way that experience would have been half as much fun in a car! 

Sometimes, along the side of the road there are "historical information" signs. Sometimes, not even a place to stop to read them! It's hard enough on a bike, but impossible from a moving vehicle. Some of them are interesting such as one about Lafayette who stayed here on his first night in the Colonies, then goes on to explain what he did to help defeat the English. Others are very tenous - this is the site of the first post office in the state, and here's some info on the postmaster. 

I had done my usual trick of marking off campsites on Google Maps & then saving the map. Just as well, because I have no phone signal. The first was an RV site, the second was closed, the third was another RV site & the fourth was an hour away - and it was getting dark.
I did stop at a church, but no-one was around, then I saw a Sheriff's office - but that was closed. I was afraid #4 was not going to work either so I was looking for options along the way. Still no phone signal. Then I spotted the Sheriff doing a speed trap, so I rolled over & asked his advice. He told me of a slipway a few miles down the road that should be ok. He said a few people might come along, but they'd be friendly enough. So I set off down a little road in the dark. When I got here it's quite a big spot. One car was already parked on the slipway do I have them a wide berth. Another joined them for a while, then both headed off. I ate some jerky & trail mix - don't fancy cooking. I'm alone now except for the sounds of something big swimming in the lake and something big rustling through the trees at the back! 
Never a dull moment!


























If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Oct 2019)

Day 42 Thursday October 24, Wild Camp after Cross to Gaston 123km

Let me begin with a rant - I don't want a crappy end to take away from a great day riding and exploring.

I get that an RV site will advertise itself as a campsite - even though it has none of the basic facilities of a campsite - toilets, washroom etc. What I don't get is a farm campsite, active on Facebook & with a full profile on Google Maps, one that responds automatically to messages but never in person and then says "oh, we're not doing that anymore!"

Baaaah! 

Anyway, I was awoken at 6 am by somebody unlocking a chain at a gate. They were gone again before I could struggle out of the tent, so I rolled over for another little nap.

A couple of cars had come & gone before midnight, but I wasn't interfered with in any way.

At 7, I got up, packed up as quickly as possible & hit the road.







I was back on Highway 6, nothing like it's maturer version, 17. 2 lanes, reasonable traffic all good. I stopped off in Eutawville at a fish shop come diner for breakfast. There was a little old lady, at least in her 70's who asked me how I was doing. "I'm doing much better now that I've seen you", I told her which had her giggling like a schoolgirl! I was so hungry, apparantly I was flirting with little old ladies!

Food was great - biscuits & gravy & sausage with lots of coffee. I had a couple of chats with different people. One guy was trying to sell me a front wheel motor to zoom up the hills!

When I said I was heading for the Appalachians, he replied "The timing!", and for a moment my heart sank. I had checked a few places for weather info and knew it could be cold (but not fatally so) and wet, probably enough that I may need a hotel to dry out at some stage. But he seemed to be indicating worse.

Then he continued, congratulating me on my timing - that I would see the mountains in all their Fall glory! Himself, his wife & kids were taking their camper up next week! That cheered me up.
He also told me that I most likely scared the alligator yesterday. He said the time to be wary of them was when they don't move! They're getting ready to attack!

At Santee I saw a McDonalds and pulled in for a coffee & internet to update a couple of days here. When I came out, the temperature had really risen. 

Then back on the road and I detoured off 6 for a side trip through a State park. Much too early to stop and make camp I continued on, back on 6. This was real, rural South Carolina. The landscape changed between woods and fields, there were hills and bends. So early in the day it was still nice and cool, though if I stopped it was like stepping in to an oven.















After St. Matthews the hills became more prominent. I had stopped in St. Matthews (trying to make contact with the campsite) and was enjoying a cold drink at a filling station when I got chatting to 2 guys. On being told that I was on my way to Nashville having arrived in Norfolk 2,5 weeks ago, one looked at me confused and said I was going the wrong way. Then I told him I went via Charleston and all was good. His friend told me that it was all uphill for me now in South Carolina! That was great to hear! They also told me that a couple of episodes of the Andy Griffiths show were about an Irishman cycling through South Carolina!

Chatting to the two guys I had said that I really wanted to see the cotton being harvested, but that I seemed to keep missing it. One of them shook his head and told me I was leaving cotton country, so it was with great delight that I came across a field of cotton being harvested by a big, kick ass machine that does it all. It removes the cotton from the stalks, whooshes (technical term!) to the back of the machine where it is compressed into a cylinder bale that then gets wrapped in plastic before being pooped out the back of the machine. I got to see it all, except the pooping. Another thing checked off my list I cycled happily on. 





The pooping end!





As I rode, I was thinking about the last big hills I had to deal with - the mountains of Wales last year when I rode to Ireland. Short, very steep and invariably with a blind bend at the bottom so I couldn't use my momentum to get up the other side! I hope it isn't an omen that the next town was Swansea! I stopped for another cold drink (temp is 30C) at another filling station and a woman came over to compliment me. She said she saw me in St. Matthews and was surprised that I had made it to Swansea!

Since the campsite was 7km away and there were no other options, I headed off to find it. By now I was running out of puff. Eventually, after 500 meters of pushing down a lane of sand I came to the "campsite". No one around. No phone number. A neighbour came out so I went over to chat to her and she offered to make a call. A few minutes later her husband came out & told me the bad news.

On his advice I headed to the nearest town and looked around. I tried a couple of churches, but none had any numbers listed. I used Google maps to find the Fire Station. GM was wrong. Heading for another church, I passed a trailer park on the side of the road. Turning in, I headed for the one caravan I had seen people at and putting on my most desperate face I explained my predicament.
It was only then that I noticed that 2 of the people sitting there were young, well groomed men and there were 3 Bible's on the table. If pushed, I may just have sold my soul for a place to pitch my tent!

In any case, I was directed to the first caravan, the manager, and after a quick conversation, the exchange of $10, I had a place to pitch my tent and a bush to pee in!

I was able to get out my stove, heat up some beans and enjoy beans, crackers and jerky with relish!!

There's a couple of cats around and one has already jumped on my tent and put holes in the fly!! I'll need to patch that in the morning.

I know I'm only a couple of days into this leg of the trip, but so far, the roads I've been following are far better suited to cycling and more interesting than the ACA route I was following before.

People seem a little friendlier here too. A few times today people have beeped from behind, in what I took to be a friendly "I'm coming past you" kind of a message, although one woman, scared the bejaysus out of me my giving 3 long blasts as she passed me by. She was waving frantically as well, which I'm taking to be well intentioned. She did however, cause me to wobble into the rumble strip.

I'm hoping to make it to another State Park tomorrow night. I think a shower would be good for me - and anyone else I may encounter!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Oct 2019)

Day 43 Friday October 25, Gaston to Lake Greenwood State Park 104km (+10-15 not recorded).

Beggars can't be choosers, but the traffic running by my head meant a poor night's sleep and total awakeness at 4:30 am.
I did seriously consider getting up & hitting the road, but I figured it really wasn't a safe option. Traffic is unsure around a bike at the best of times, at 5 am who knows what might happen. Instead I lay awake pondering how when I was trying to find the best tent that I had never considered cat-proofness!

Finally, dragged myself up and out and set about my morning chores, including patching the tent. There's 2 places where the claws went through the material and about 3 or 4 other places I would describe as "stressed". I'll need more patches in Nashville.
Just before I left, while washing my teeth under a tree I managed to drool toothpaste all down my front. An attempt to clean it, only made matters worse. Unwilling to unpack everything again to get a clean top, I simply turned the existing one inside out😀. The simple joys of life on the road!

Since Gaston was away from my route, I had no intention of going all the way back to Swansea so plotted a route to join my original route. This brought me down some a side roads and onto some real, rural South Carolina sand roads. The soil here is a rich orange colour. 












In Pelion I joined up with my original route so promptly stopped for a meatball sub. I'll tell you, there's few things as messy to eat, but it really hit the spot.

Onwards now and I was definitely feeling sluggish - probably just the meatballs. This is rolling Hill country, no real flats at all - either ascending or descending. I think it was after Pelion that the shoulder ran out. For a big chunk of yesterday I had a good 1,5 meters of shoulder, outside the rumble strip all to myself. Still, the traffic wasn't too bad and I was really enjoying myself. So much so, in fact, that I forgot to plug Gizmo into the hub charger and ran out of juice! I reckon the km count for the day is down by about 10-15 km while I recharged it.





I did pass a campsite about noon, but decided it was way too early to stop. Onwards & upwards I continued, stopping in Batesburg for another cold drink. I also discovered Little Debbie's, a brand of confectionery. Tasty! 

I was heading for another State Park, the only camping option in the vicinity. I was making good time so rolled happily along, enjoying the changing landscape. The trees were different now, and more of them. There were cattle in the fields and crops like cabbage growing in the fields. Except for the hot weather it could be a sunny day in parts of Ireland. I rolled through Saluda thinking of a long, hot shower to come, some nice food cooked before the sun set. I even started thinking about maybe taking a rest day.











Up until this trip I've been chased once by a dog - and that was in the Netherlands where dogs are always well behaved. I was cycling through a really flat part (there's flat and there's really flat!), a farming area when a terrier tore after me. The shock of a dog chasing me almost caused me to fall off. I laughed and went on my way.
Up until today in the U.S. I've had 2 dog chases, neither serious, more a determined effort to guard territory than anything else. However, there have been lots of aggressive dogs behind fences that made it perfectly clear that I was toast if they got out.
Then today, rolling slowly up a hill, getting ready to turn off to the left, I spy 2 big crossbreeds on the other side of the road racing in my direction. There are 3 cars coming up behind me so I point to the dogs trying to alert the drivers to my predicament. If one slows down that will probably cover me and deter the dogs. Not a hope. The cars drive by obliviously. 
Now I have a problem. The first is a shepherd cross, probably husky and is racing across the road at me. His compadre, bigger of no discernable mix is a bit lazier. I know I'm supposed to stop and use the bike as a barrier but with 2 dogs I don't want to stop in case one gets behind me. Instead I reach for my water bottle to squirt him with water. Except I forget to pop the nozzle, so no water comes out. My throwing motion and angry yelling though gives him second thoughts so he pulls back. Now his buddy is coming up so I quickly pip the nozzle with my teeth and blast him full in the face about a foot from my foot. He yelps and runs back. Thinking I'm in the clear I try to get out of the middle of the road, build up a bit of speed and try to figure out the best way to make the turn without exciting the two hunters again. Thankfully my head is spinning over and back and I see the first attacker making another run at me. The water bottle to the rescue again. Now all my water is gone so I'm desperately hoping that was the last throw of the dice. As I made my turn I saw the sign for the State Park 15 miles.

I was banjaxed. My legs felt like rubber and after the adrenaline rush faded I was totally out of puff. I didn't want to stop until I had put a bit of distance between me and the dogs. There was no house or property around where I saw them, so if they were strays they might be following me. 

It was a real shame because those last 15 miles were very pretty. I could see what the guy was talking about yesterday. Autumn wasn't arriving - I was riding into it.
What should have taken an hour took almost two, so when I saw the turn off for the Park I whooped with joy and rolled down the big hill to it.

It's Halloween weekend at the park, so the only available spot is a primitive spot. Hmmmmm, no shower! No water either. The primitive spots are back up the hill, along the road and back down another hill. I pay my $19, fill up my water bottles and head reluctantly out to the bike to revisit the joyful hill. As I'm leaving the lady tells me that I'm welcome to come back to the main park in the morning for a shower. I ask her if she can read my mind or are her other senses active. She has the good grace to laugh.

Primitive is primitive here in South Carolina. In the North Carolina State Park the primitive site had a composting toilet and water pumps. This one has trees, leaves and a rickety old picnic table.






I threw up the tent as quickly as possible and made some porridge. Since the dog incident I was feeling a bit off and the porridge helped settle me a bit. Then I boiled up some water and had another boil in the bag chicken dinner - thanks big fella!

By now it's dark and I'm exhausted. I was told I may have one guy coming later but no sign. It's just me in a big forest! 

Not sure yet what tomorrow will hold. I think rain is on the way and the next campsite is well over 100km away. Cell/data coverage is practically non existent in the rural areas. I may pack up here early, roll back up & down to the main campsite, have a shower, a leisurely breakfast and see how the day pans out.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Oct 2019)

Day 44 Saturday October 26, Lake Greenwood State Park to Springfield Campsite (near Anderson, SC) 104km 

Back when I was in primary school, oh dear, about 40 odd years ago, I had to do a project on Autumn. The usual golden leaves stuck to pages of a copybook, but it was then I learned that the Americans called it "The Fall". I remember thinking what fecking eejits! We know they can't spell - leaving the "u" out of colour and all those z's they use instead of s. I became convinced that Autumn was too difficult a word for the trans-atlantic cousins. 
Well, today taught me the error of my ways. Fall is actually a perfect description for Autumn in these parts. Picture the scene; sitting at a picnic table in the middle of the forest waiting for a kettle to boil. A gentle breeze ruffles the air and immediately hundreds, if not thousands, of brittle brown leaves start falling together to land on the ground. A snowfall of leaves. It is a surprisingly beautiful sight that was repeated many times today.

Breakfast view





As you may gather, I was in fine form this morning. I was exhausted going to bed, so tired it's the first night I didn't read. Just as I was nodding off, something boldly making it's way through the campsite gave me a jolt. Brazenly it ploughed through the fallen leaves with no regard for my desire to sleep. It may have been a bold squirrel or a raccoon, certainly not large enough to be a bear,so I calmed myself down and went to sleep.

I awoke a little later than usual - it takes time for the sun to penetrate the forest. My first decision was what to do - pack up, cycle the 5km back to the "official" campground, have a shower, make breakfast, then hit the road, or savour a breakfast right where I was? I chose the latter, making porridge & coffee and enjoying the beauty all around me. 
Afterwards, I still needed a shower though, but the thoughts of packing, moving, unpacking to wash, repacking and cycling an extra 10km was too off-putting. So I concocted a cunning plan. I took out my hygienic moist tissues, (avert your eyes, ladies), stripped off (except for my runners) and gave myself a vigorous, all over clean! Talk about refreshing! There was nobody for miles around and if anyone approached they'd give lots of notice with the noise of the leaves.
Feeling great I got dressed, packed up & ascended the hill to the main road.





Interesting history





Once out of tree cover it was already hot. 25C by 10am. I felt great after a good night's rest and a delightful morning routine so I powered through the first 30km, before stopping for a burger & fries. They even had two rocking chairs outside, so I sat for a few minutes,acting like a southern gentleman. 
In the shop/diner/filling station they had the "Jail News" for sale ($2). It's headline was about 3 unsolved murders, a second story was about a man who strangled his girlfriend and then himself! While the third story was about how a couple's argument progressed to gunfire! 





















There are little towns every 10-15 miles, so services are not an issue. It was another day of climbing & descending, but the landscape was interesting and constantly changing. Traffic was light on the quieter roads and if the road was busier there was generally a good shoulder so it was all pleasant enough. Until it wasn't.

There was no shoulder so I was riding in the middle of the lane when I heard a car behind me. I pulled over and continued along the white line right at the edge of the asphalt. There was no incoming traffic and I could see the car moving to the middle of the road. Then they started blasting the horn in long blasts, a good 500 meters from me. This didn't sound like encouragement and I had a mental image of a hand jamming itself against the horn again and again. Slowing slightly because I was becoming nervous and also because the edge of these roads can be rough & full of cracks I kept my eyes on the mirror as the car approached. Just as they were behind me they veered from the middle over to my side as if to side swipe me. They missed by inches, the horn blasting all the time.

I was raging! I've never experienced such a blatantly hostile act on the bike. I've had close passes and near misses, but this was in a different league. This was a planned and deliberate act. Once again my puff was gone. I limped on until I came to a sportsfield beside a church and sat on the bleachers snacking on trail mix & jerky and thinking happy thoughts until I was ready to go again.

I rode through Due West and continued on to Belton, definitely a town of two halves. The approach was spectacular, big houses, wonderful gardens - very wealthy. The other side as I rode out was significantly poorer. I stopped on the poorer edge to check out my options. My target for the day was over 70km away and since it was now 3:15pm I decided it was too far away to aim for. Instead I found another campsite closer, although well off my route. With luck I won't have to retrace the whole diversion tomorrow, I'll be able to take a shortcut.
30km to go, I reckoned two hours would see me there. 

The route was mainly smaller roads to the town of Anderson, where I thought I was pulled by the police for breaking a red light! But after giving the full lights & siren treatment he drove off, presumably after a more serious criminal. The town itself was dead. The approach was through a very poor area and I have to say I did feel a bit nervous. One house had 4 police cars sitting outside, lights flashing. The thing is, there was no need. Everyone I passed saluted me or said hello. To a man/woman they were all friendly. That's the opposite to some of the "gated communities" I cycled through a few days ago.

Then it was out a 4 lane highway that had so little traffic I could comfortably take a lane all to myself.

When I finally arrived at the campsite, there was a very pleasant older man to check me in. This is a U.S. army (Engineer Corps) campsite on the shores of a lake. It took a long time to process me & get me checked in - the computer system is not very good! Once checked in we had a good chat about my experiences. He's retired & does this for the $ and to meet interesting people. I finally moved off to get myself setup before night falls.

I'm back on gravel again (bah!), have my own tap for water (the joy!) and close to the washrooms.





Dinner was pasta & tomato sauce with tuna. Then a shave and a tepid, long shower and laundry combined. It's amazing how much satisfaction a tepid shower which stops until the button is pressed can give! 

There's heavy rain forecast for tonight & tomorrow. There's no shop for miles but I have food enough with me. If it's as bad tomorrow as I'm led to believe, I may just be taking a rest day. There is no wifi in the campground and I can't get a signal on my phone. Bliss! :-)

It's funny how we start to get used to things. Today, I had four dog chases. Two minor, just running beside me, two more serious. One dog got too close and got kicked in the head twice, the other got a faceful of water.
I need to have a positive experience with a dog - soon!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (28 Oct 2019)

Day 45 Sunday October 27, Rest day @ Springfield Campsite (near Anderson, SC) 0km 

It rained heavily during the night as expected so I slept later than usual.
When I got up I was surprised to see blue skies - the forecast was for more rain. I dithered about what to do as I set about making breakfast. Then, during breakfast I was entertained by two squirrels chasing each other around me - completely unbothered by me! I took it as a sign to kick back and relax and enjoy the day of rest.

Hanging out avoiding the racoons!






I rolled up to the office to pay for another night and kicked off an unfortunate drama. While the computer system was unfriendly last night, it was downright hostile today! The lady dealing with it gave up, calling her colleague (from last night) for help.
He couldn't get it to work either! Then it was a call to a centralised help centre and the instruction came back to wait an hour before trying again! We were already 45 minutes trying at this stage! Helpfully, he told me I could check in on another site - but that would mean moving my tent and all the gear. I said I'd return in an hour. And I did. This time it was only 15 minutes to process me! 
This site is a U.S. army (Engineer Corps) location. If I was American I'd be very worried about my army's abilities! Have to say though the two people trying to help were very friendly if bound by the rules.

Now my laundry had a decent chance to dry, I could charge up all my electronics, reorganise my bags (again!), clean the chain (lots of sand the past few days), retape my bar ends and generally give the bike a once over.

Dinner time!





That pretty much took up the whole day! While I'd been passing the time between check in attempts I discovered I had a phone signal at one of the highest points of the park. This allowed me to call my planned destination for tomorrow night. Due to intermittent opening hours I have to make it there before 5p.m. It's about 75km away, but now I'm really heading into hilly country. I got ready for an early departure.

Sun going down











If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
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## HobbesOnTour (28 Oct 2019)

Day 46 Monday October 28, Springfield Campsite (near Anderson, SC) to Keowee Toxaway State Park 75km

This will probably be one of the hardest updates to make, simply because there aren't enough words to describe how simply wonderful today was!

As planned, I was up early, even before the sun was up and multi-tasked making breakfast and packing up.
I enjoyed my porridge and on a whim decided to take my flask of coffee back up to the highpoint where I could get a phone signal. Well, the view was simply incredible! I stopped & savoured my coffee while gazing & savouring the view. 






I'm not really doing these parks a proper service by arriving as night falls and heading away early the next day. There is so much more to them than just a campsite.






Went back to finish the packing a little later than planned and got a bit of a shock when I opened it up. There was a bit of a wet patch on the floor! My pee bottle hadn't been fastened properly after my 4am pee! Not quite disaster, but certainly not helpful. I mopped it up as best I could, then moved the tent directly into the sun to dry it out and continued packing up. Jeez! What a dumbass!

Finally, I packed up the tent and hit the road.

And what a road!! I used cycle.travel to plot a route to my night's destination and it did not disappoint! Two lane country roads, either going uphill or down, avoiding Anderson - it was pure cycling bliss! There are no words! 











As the day wore on the mountains in the distance became so much closer, the climbs longer and steeper, the descents faster and more exciting! For most of it I had very little traffic to contend with and while the road surfaces were a bit dodgy at times, all was good.











I had two dog encounters - one with a viscous yappy little fella who got a blast of water, the other with a bigger dog who gave a little chase but stopped & wagged his tail!

I did have a nasty encounter with a dumper truck and a car. There was a short section where there were a lot of dumper trucks and one, coming up behind me seemed to take the middle of the road as a car was approaching. It looked like the truck, car & I would all be on the same section of road at the same time so I bailed - off the road and into a little ditch beside the road. There was no collision, but the car driver was still blasting their horn when they went around the next corner!

I picked myself out of the ditch and got going again. There was nothing, I was pretty sure, that could ruin today's vibe.
















It was hot (20C at 10 am) and while the wind was wonderful on the descents, the ascents tended to be slow and hot!

I stopped a couple of times for a cold drink and stopped at a store about 20km from the campsite to stock up on some food. I was out of jerky and trail mix which has become my little snack. I stopped a lot today to take photos and missed not having a nibble.

I was on course to arrive well in time at the campground, which was another reason to be in good form. Too often, it seems, I'm racing the light at the end of the day to make camp. It's nice to have time to relax, unwind, cook while it's still daylight. It gets dark a little after 19:00 and I mean really dark. 

I was delighted to see a cold drink vending machine when I arrived - not so happy to see it out of order! I checked in, have a beautiful spot amongst the trees - I'm the only person in the tent section. Made dinner (chilli) and can use the WiFi at the office to post this later.






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## HobbesOnTour (28 Oct 2019)

Day 46 - some more pictures!





















Always look behind you!


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Oct 2019)

Day 47 Tuesday October 29, Keowee Toxaway State Park to Ammon's Branch Campground,N.C. 41km


The plan was simple. Head for Highlands - there was a campsite there and at about 55km away the day shouldn't be too taxing. If I was feeling up to it, sure I might even ride on towards Franklin!


Oh, foolish, foolish me!!! 


I was up early, organised early, had breakfast early, but there's something about these State Park campsites that is just so…..relaxed. It's a shame to rush away from them when your breakfast is entertained by squirrels, when the view is so ...immense. 

When I finally got up to go, all my earliness counted for squat. The way it should be!


I joined the main road for a few Kms, then turned off onto a side road and it was pretty much side roads, back roads and forest roads for the rest of the day. Fall, or rather, The Fall was putting on a spectacular show! Best of all, I had it pretty much all to myself - there was hardly any traffic. 

















There was nothing I saw that couldn't be studied in great detail without getting off the bike. I was going incredibly slowly, you see, because it's all uphill!


I don't know much about the Appalachians, but I have read that despite being lower than the Rockies they are reckoned to be harder to cross because they are so steep. I now concur!

















The scenery was outstanding, the roads not in the best condition, but interesting with sweeping turns, long steep climbs, short descents and except for one section barely travelled by automobiles. Given where I was - bear country & given that there was very little traffic I was singing (well, I call it singing!) to warn the bears I was in the vicinity. Basically, they'll attack if surprised or if you come between a mother & her cubs. If they know you're coming, they're likely to walk away. 


The problem is the song! Every trip has a song. It's not planned, it just kind of makes its way into my head. More often than not I don't know the lyrics so I sing the same stuff over and over again, or make up new ones as I pedal along. Previous songs have included "Sittin' on the Dock of the Bay", "I've got all the time in the World", several Springsteen numbers and once, embarrassingly, Barry Manilow's Cocacabana!

Back on the coast, 2 girls camping beside me were playing music - most of it from the 80's, not really classics, but almost. So today, I was singing "Didn't we Almost Have it All" to the bears! Strangely, not a one was seen!


Stopping was done frequently - for photos, for water, for breath, for nibbles. On some ascents progress was measured in the tens of meters. It was bloody tough going. By noon, my legs were definitely feeling rubbery. I guess that now I'm really feeling the effects of such a long time off the bike and a severe lack of conditioning.

Not complaining. I'm incredibly fortunate to be able to do this.


Apart from a filling station way, way back at my first turnoff, there were no services. Gizmo was telling me it was 21C and with all the trees towering above me there was lots of shade.


At one stage there was a "scenic point" where I pulled in and laid down on the ground for half an hour. I could easily have slept! 












Then back into another monster climb. Eventually, I turned off onto some forestry roads - gravel - that were beautiful and relatively flat. Then I had a fantastic downhill to a river that was followed inevitably by a nasty, steep climb. I say nasty because the road was loose gravel and on my side was a steep, almost vertical drop of 50meters or more. In the end I finally hopped off and began to push. There was less chance of me disappearing down a gully that way. By now my singing voice was shot so I was busy ringing my bell at every blind corner.












It was getting on and I reckoned I was not going to make Highlands before dark. Osmand showed me there was a primitive campsite run by the forestry service ahead, so I aimed for that. Water was my big issue - I was very low and as far as I knew there was no water at the site.

I was right! No water, but a Guardian Angel in the form of Sharon, taking a few days away from it all who offered me some water! Such luxury! Now I could drink *and* eat! 

We had a long chat, then I got myself set up, ate dinner just as night fell. It's cold tonight & Sharon tells me the next couple of days are forecast to be stormy! Uh oh! 

She also told me of the wildlife - the bears, bats, bobcats and the serial killers! There's also a famous hill for me tomorrow - 3 miles, very steep, no shoulder! Lovely! It'll be even better in the rain! Most people on normal bikes end up walking up - how am I going to cope on a loaded bike????



If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2019)

Day 48 Wednesday October 30, Ammon's Branch Campground,N.C. 0km

Sometime before 10 pm the sky exploded and water poured down all night. The noise was phenomenal! And it continued all night! At 4:30 I was awake and waiting for a chance to get out and start packing up. The weather was not co-operating. The rain was either heavy or really heavy. I poked my head out several times but it was torrential rain and visibility was terrible. By 9:30 I figured out I wasn't going anywhere. With what Sharon had told me about the narrow road, the massive climb, the current conditions I just didn't believe it was going to be safe.

I had a water bottle in the tent with me, but all my food (oatmeal, jerky & trail mix - not a lot) were in 2 panniers hanging away from the tent in case of bears. Several times during the day I faced the choice of going out, getting soaked and getting some food or staying inside, relatively warm & dry. I chose the latter.

On days like this the Kindle is a Godsend! There wasn't a snowball's chance in Hell of getting a phone signal.

The rain continued all day and all night. At about 5am it started to lighten then stopped for a while. Then returned with a vengeance. This pattern continued for a couple of hours then there was a ferocious wind for maybe 15 minutes. The noise was amazing. At first, it was like a large flock of silent, flying birds heading towards me from a distance - just the sound of beating wings. It grew louder and louder until it seemed like the birds were swirling frantically around the tent. The force of the wind was incredible. I was starting to think I was going to be stuck another day! Then, as quickly as it came, it was gone!

A couple of pics from yesterday

















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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2019)

Day 49 Thursday October 31, Ammon's Branch Campground,N.C. to Highlands 8km (lost data due to Gizmo being off)


I jumped out of bed, started getting organised. Loads of rain had splashed under the fly into the inner so there was definitely moisture inside. Outside, I made up some porridge, utilising about half the water I had left. Then, as best I could, started packing and loading up the bike. The tent was soaking & covered in leaves. So much water had fallen, the ground under the tent had subsided. 

After the storm







As I was packing up, Sharon came by again with more bad news. The forecast was for more storms. Maybe if I was quick I could escape the worst. 

As I started off the rain began to fall. The road was rough gravel, running steeply upwards. I was pushing from the start. After a couple of Kms it became flat and asphalt so I hopped on and started to cycle. Then I hit the 3 mile section. Two lane, narrow road, no shoulder, mountain on one side (often with a nasty gulley between the road & mountain) and a sheer drop on the other, a series of S bends going ever higher. Some of the bends were very sharp and I often crossed over so the downhill traffic could see me while staying out of the lane of the uphill traffic.

It was so steep pushing was the only option.

On these kinds of roads hearing is almost as important as sight. I could hear the traffic before I saw it and position myself accordingly. 


It was very slow going. Very slow. Hearing something coming down into a blind bend I stopped well back. It was just as well. It was a pick up from a glazier's firm with a large sheet of glass attached to it's side. Unfortunately, it wasn't fastened well and as the truck took the corner the pane of glass slowly toppled off in front of me, smashing into thousands of pieces all flowing towards me. In seconds I was being surrounded by pieces of broken glass. Thankfully, I was only hit by one fragment, on my shin. A small cut. The driver hollered out if I was OK, when I replied in the positive, he drove on down the hill! I picked my way through the glass and continued on, pretty grateful that I was being so careful.


The rain became heavier as I went higher, the wind picked up as did a swirling mist. Visibility at times was very poor. I had all my lights on, hi-viz vest but was still very cautious. One car pulled in about 50 meters in front of me & waited. Thinking I might be getting a lift (or even a bottle of water would be gratefully accepted) I approached with a big smile. Just as I reached the car, they drove off. 


I have no idea how long three miles feels and gizmo was off because of low power. After what seemed hours I arrived at what seemed to be a descent - and it was! Behind me was a warning sign advising a steep descent and dangerous curves for 3 miles!







Next stop Highlands! I rolled on and stopped at the first place serving food. I was too wet & grubby to eat inside, so I took my food and coffee outside, under an awning. Then I set off looking for a place to stay. The closest campsite was closed due to the storms. I tried a couple of Inns that were way out of my budget. Outside town, I found a more reasonable spot, booked in and set about redecorating my room. There's wet & damp clothing everywhere. The tent is hanging in the bathroom. There's a couple of places close by to eat. I showered, did laundry, some grocery shopping and lay down for a nap 

The problem I'm going to have going on is the lack of campsites. Halloween is typically the end of the season. The weather has changed - the worst of the storm appears over, but nightly temps are going to be hovering above freezing. Also, the clocks change over here this weekend. I reckon I have another 175 km in the mountains - I'm just not sure how long it will take to get those out of the way.


Well, I wanted an adventure, and I'm not being disappointed! 


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2019)

Day 50 Friday November 01, Highlands to Franklin 38km

When I woke up this morning it was like an explosion had occurred in my room! There was clothing, a sleeping bag, shoes, a jacket and all the other contents of my panniers spread everywhere and a dirty, but significantly drier tent hanging in the bathroom.

I'd had a late night. I was enjoying the novelty of a TV. Just when I was ready to sleep I clicked on a show on Discovery, I think, where two unrelated people, one man, one woman, are dropped off in an inhospitable area and they have to survive for 21 days depending on their survival skills and one item each of them can bring. I found it gripping, and, of course, in the American style, they don't just show one episode, but one after another.

Oh, the couple are naked, but in the American style all the bits are blurred out!

My first job was to pack up the tent, then clean the bathroom of the leaves, sand, grit and all the other detritus from the forest.

Packing took longer than usual because everything was out and spread around.

Then it was down to make a good account of the continental breakfast included in the price!

One last check of the room, then down to load up the bike.

The first thing I noticed was that it was freezing outside! The elasticated rope in my clickstand (like in a tent pole) had frozen so the stand wouldn't work. That was a first!
In a pub where I'd eaten the night before,call the talk was of an expected snowfall that night. On the TV there were constant, rolling warnings of freezing, flooding and high winds in the surrounding areas.

I was dreading this day. Back in August, when busy clearing out the house, I was in dire pain. When it came to packing up my gear for this trip I had to do it quickly as a friend had graciously offered to store it for me for a few days. In my haste and muddled by pain I inadvertently threw out a bag of my favourite cycling tops. These were mainly for good weather, but I had a great one, a gift, that was fantastic on cold mornings like this. I only discovered my error on the ship.

The other error I made was while I dried all my gear, I forgot to dry my gloves which were still soaking wet. So I popped back inside for a last coffee!

Then, it was down a steep hill and back on the road. A couple of days previously, Sharon had warned about 64 to Franklin. I had a short taste of it on the way out of Highlands - not pleasant, but within a couple of Kms I turned off.





Quiet, along a river, a brisk 8C but very pleasant. I had to keep an eye out for black ice in the shaded spots. After a short while I started to climb, but it was either not to steep, or where steep, blessedly short. Now this was cycling! When I joined a busier road it was only for 500 meters, then back onto a quieter one. Traffic was not common, but required attention when present - this was speeding country! I had no issue pulling in when traffic was powering up behind me. Most drivers were particularly friendly today, often giving big waves as they drove by. I needed the encouragement - the climbs were steeper and longer. And the dogs were out - 3 chases today. I'm really starting to have a (negative) Pavlovian response to dog barks now. I really need a positive experience with a friendly dog soon. Also, my aim with my water bottle is improving!











I was really enjoying the morning. I knew I didn't have too far to go so was feeling no pressure. I also knew I'd booked a cheap motel for the night so I'd have some comfort. There was no open campsite within range and this stopover would give me a good run to the next one the next day.







Then it got better!! I peaked and started a descent on a perfect surface. It was glorious! The light, the colours, the pure, fresh air was just so inspiring! I could not believe just how lucky I was to be here, in this place, seeing these views. I'd contemplated weather and temperatures and climbing when looking at this route (all exceeded my expectations!), but I had never thought what it might look like!





Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good!


Of course, there was one problem - it was bloody cold!!! I had to stop and don some extra layers.







I continued on through this Autumn wonderland so, so glad that I hadn't attempted this in the rain.







I should have mentioned that when I arrived in Highlands I was flagged down by Steve who had done a cross country ride years before. He had offered me a place to pitch my tent in Franklin had I wanted to ride on. I thanked him but said that after two nights in a forest I really wanted to treat myself. I was also conscious of the fact that a big storm was due in the afternoon. In any case, he'd given me directions to his office in Highlands and told me to return to him if I could find nothing.


Had I cycled on to Steve's yesterday I couldn't have gone this way (too windy) - I'd have been stuck on 64 and that would have been dangerous.


I knew that because I rejoined 64 7 miles from Franklin (according to the sign) and immediately had traffic issues. Close passes, no shoulder, dodgy surfaces at the edge. I spied a filling station with a Mexican attached, so stopped for a warming coffee, breakfast burrito and churoz.

Then back onto 64. I gritted my teeth thinking 7 miles was well worth what I had previously. Then I turned off again! More back roads, along another river, right into Franklin. Franklin has some steep hills! I found the motel, marginally more expensive than some of the campsites, had a shower & relaxed before taking a wander. It didn't take too long!

I found a diner type place for my dinner and had an enjoyable time people watching and reading the local paper. This one too had an arrests section, although without the mugshots. The majority of cases were either assault of a female or domestic abuse with marijuana possession running second.

There were some obituaries, one, of a Chicagoan who had retired to Franklin was both touching and humorous.

He was described as "The Lovable Curmudgeon" who quickly established himself as "local colour".

It described all the organizations he had been involved with, many now defunct, finishing with "He didn't kill every organisation he was involved with".

At the end "In lieu of flowers, do a shot and have your car washed".


I have a longish day tomorrow, with two significant climbs. I've never been one to look at gradient info, but I'm learning some lessons on this trip. I need to be careful not to over exert myself and there is the added complication of the distances between accommodation options. In bear country just hiding out and setting up camp is a foolish option for me given my lack of bear experience.






If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (4 Nov 2019)

Day 51 Saturday, November 02, Franklin to near Murphy 79km

I was asleep later than planned again, this time due to watching the latest episodes of "Have I Got News For You" - isn't YouTube brilliant?!

As a result I overslept a little bit, but got up to a freezing world. There was a freezing fog covering Franklin as I packed up, lubed the chain and rolled off to have some breakfast. I could have gone back to the diner from last night, but that was downhill, do I headed for a little doughnut shop I'd seen the night before. It was open from 7 am until sold out. 

So I showed up at this little store and had a delicious & filling breakfast bagel and coffee. Then I had a doughnut. The little older lady was all charm and very friendly. In the time I was there she sold out of all her stock - that was between 9 and 10 am! I like their style! However, as I was leaving, she called me over & asked if I liked carrot cake? Who doesn't? She put two in a bag for me, told me about a big hill that needed to be climbed and that now I could have a little party to celebrate at the top! How nice!

Then it was out into the fog. I was ready with my gloves, overpants and jacket. I had every light on because it was so gloomy.






I was on a main road to get out of town, then turned off to a smaller one. I was expecting the big hill but it didn't arrive, instead just a series of climbs and descents. Once Gizmo settled down he was showing a temperature of 2 C.





After about 15 km I met the hill. It was a pretty hill now that the sun was burning the fog off, but it was a steep hill with lots of s-bends and was quite enclosed by trees so it felt narrow. The good thing was that I was able to keep pedaling. 















Early on, ahead a me a bunch of pick-ups had pulled in and were letting dogs out into the woods. I approached cautiously, already having had my first dog chase of the day. I tried to engage one of the men in conversation but he wasn't co-operating. All I could learn was that hunting season had started. 

On and on I went, ever upwards, slowly but steadily. I needed to pay attention to my road position as some of the bends were blind and I would be invisible until the last moment for cars behind me.

Way back I could hear roaring engines that I was sure were motorbikes. They seemed to be fairly shifting so I pulled in on the opposite side of the road after a blind bend. I was grateful that I did. It was three VW Golfs being raced up the mountain. One after another they skidded around the corner and flew past me at high speed. I could still hear them five minutes later.

Also, I kept passing the hunters where they were pulled in either releasing or retrieving their dogs. There wasn't a word of encouragement, comment, banter or anything from them the entire time I was working my way up.





The higher I got the greater the view, but there were always trees in the way for good photos. Eventually, about 2,5 hours after I started to climb I felt the wind picking up. Hoping that was a sign I was near the top I ground on. 

It was! At the top there were some pick-ups parked up - more hunters - and one car depositing two fully kitted out hikers of the Appalachian trail. Franklin is along the route of this famous trail that runs from Georgia to Maine.

I fastened up my jacket and began to roll down. Oh, but it was glorious! At first a gentle descent, then some sharp turns, but mainly gentle, so much so that at times I had to pedal hard to keep my momentum against a headwind.

I needed to be careful because there was a fair degree of stones and gravel on the road, mainly at the bends. I blame the racers from earlier and their crappy cornering techniques.

Still, it was great fun!! My extremities were freezing but I wore a grin the whole way down.

I did notice that on this side of the mountain Fall was in the past and winter was moving in!






Now I knew I'd be travelling around a lake that I expected to be flat, but of course, I was wrong! Climb descend. Rinse & repeat. I hardly got to see the lake either. There were quite a few "exclusive" communities along the lake with lots of trees to guard their exclusivity.

When I did get to cycle along the shore for a few minutes I stopped to take a photo and was passed by a car from Sweden of all places! 





I stopped by a closed filling station to eat my celebratory muffins - delicious - and continued on. It was now about 2 pm and I was beginning to feel a little anxiety over my destination for the night. It was the only campsite on the route and I really didn't want to be riding in the dark.

Before I knew it I was climbing again. I took this as a positive sign - the sooner I had completed this climb the sooner I'd have an easier road to the end. My legs, however, disagreed. They were feeling distinctly rubbery. I pulled in, removed my over trousers, jacket & swapped my warm gloves for my regular ones. It was getting warmer now and I wasn't travelling fast enough for wind chill.

This time, the road was straighter, not as steep and less enclosed than previously. To be honest, I wasn't paying too much attention to the view. My head was down and I was focused on keeping my legs turning. I knew that roughly the climb would end at a reasonable sized town so I was desperately scanning ahead for signs of suburbia. 

Taking a pause on the second climb - the mighty Roccado





About 4 pm I turned a corner and began to roll downwards. Before I knew it I was cruising at top speed down long straights with gentle curves. It was fabulous!! All the more for arriving earlier than I had expected!

I did have to stop, though, to dress myself again with my warm gear. 

I zoomed down, passing Valleytown, then Andrews making great time. Now there was a distinct levelling off and the countryside was changing too - more open, less mountains.






I was travelling on a side road parallel to a busy highway - bliss! that turned into the side road of adventure! 
My first adventure was with one of those "pretend" 4x4s, you know the ones that are too small, too boxy and too underpowered to actually go anywhere off road. As it passed me a head stuck out the passenger window and yelled "YAH!" as loudly as they could manage. 
I guess his goal was to scare me. He didn't. Not because I'm some big, tough guy, but because loud noises as cars or trucks pass me are now normal! Some of the engines make a terrible racket and those off road tyres on regular road surfaces can be as loud as tanks.

I was irritated though - irritated that someone thought that was an OK thing to do. I was also amused though, because if he'd imitated a neutered French poodle and barked at me, I'd have jumped out of my skin!

Back to the bliss....until I hit Maltby. I'd venture a guess that Maltby has as many dogs as people. I know that because I met most of them - the dogs not the people.

The first was a bull terrier cross that came at me from a church of all places. This time I was in trouble - trying to work my way up a hill. I had no alternative but to get off the bike, threaten and cajole the bugger armed with my water bottle as a last resort.

He'd sit back for a while and I'd praise him, then he'd take a run at me and I'd yell "Stay" as loud as I could and pretend to throw the bottle. It was touch and go. At the top of the hill getting back on was tricky while watching for traffic, for him and holding the bottle. But I was off. 
Then there was a big Alsation, about 500 meters down the road. This time I had momentum, didn't stop and the water did the trick. Next was another big crossbreed, but in fairness he was lazy. Finally, as I came to a junction, slowing down to turn right, another big crossbreed silently got to my rear wheel before I realised. In a bit of shock I turned left instead of right and roared at him. He stopped, but stayed in the road - in the direction I needed to go. 

At this stage I was feeling very shook. I couldn't go back - I knew what was waiting for me. I couldn't go the way I was pointing. I had to go either over him or through him.

I turned around, and started cycling towards him, giving as much space as I could, the water bottle pointing at him. My talking to him seemed to be doing the trick until he lunged at me, then the water did it's trick. I was past him.

These dog encounters are really starting to get to me. They sure like their crossbreeds in these parts. Makes a difference from the stereotypical image of inbreeding in these parts, I suppose! :-) 

By now, I wasn't too far from the campsite. A couple of minutes backtracking on a highway and I was there. Office was closed, phone wasn't answered, so I wandered over to the tent section, said hello to the only occupants, a couple, and set the tent up. Thankfully, it was pretty dry.

Daniel from the other tent came over to say "Hi", with not one but two bottles of beer for me!! More kindness! I would only accept one, so we chatted and drank beer.

Then with temperatures dropping it was time to get into fresh,warm clothes and make dinner. Some water got into my food pannier and since the ziplock bag the pasta was in wasn't ziplocked the pasta had to be binned. Noodles instead! 
Then into the tent as the temperature plummets.

At this stage, I'm on the edge of the Appalachians. The worst seems to be over. Tomorrow I'll cross into a new state - Tennessee. There's no campgrounds so I'll be motelling again.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Nov 2019)

Day 52 Sunday, November 03, near Murphy to Etowah 104km

This morning was a grumpy morning that extended well into the afternoon. Entirely my own fault - I made a series of foolish decisions.

Cold mornings are what I like least about this hobby. I'm a big softy, preferring to stay in a warm sleeping bag. But the clocks changed last night so I need to make as much of the daylight as I can! This morning was cold! Ice in the water bottle left on the bike.

My first mistake was to skip breakfast, planning to pick up some food (and water) on the way. There was no water at the campsite for tents. No tap, no spigot. Nothing. I'd filled up a bottle at an RV the evening before. The only place for water was in the bathroom and no bottle would fit under the tap. So I set off with a minimum of water.

The next mistake was when I saw all the food places down the road were closed was to continue on.

When my route took me away from Murphy, again with no shops or eateries I chose not to continue into Murphy anyway, hoping to pick up food and especially water at one of the villages along the way. That was my penultimate mistake. To put matters into perspective, the first shop or source of food or water I came to was after 102 km.

My route was 99.9 km and I was expecting it to be reasonably flat. I mean, I was practically out of the Appalachians, right? That expectation was my final mistake.

The day started with a dog chase in the first hour. That didn't help my mood. I was on secondary roads either climbing, short but steep or descending fast but cold. Gizmo was reading 2C.

This pattern was repeated hour after hour, the ascents getting longer. I crossed a river, rounded a lake, but mainly was cycling through the woods.
















I had been rationing the liter or so of water I was carrying. I passed through several villages - a bunch of houses and a church, but no sources of water. At noon, with 70km still to go I realised I was in a bit of trouble. 

About 1 pm I turned onto a side, side road of gravel. There was a rushing creek so I got down and filled a water bag and added a purification tab. Ready in 30 minutes. I don't have a water filter with me (ironically it's waiting for me in Nashville!) and have never done this before. I felt surprisingly satisfied! 
Now the day was turning better! Along a creek, it was relatively flat, although the surface disimproved as I went along. Great fun!










Then it was on to a main road where I stopped at a very rare picnic table, drank my purified water (delicious!) and prepared a second bag, ate some trail mix and then commenced a brutal, slow climb.






The climb was punishment. Some very steep sections almost killed me. At one stage I was stopped, astraddle the bike, brakes fully on, unable to go forward, just able to hold my position. Eventually, I had to get off and push. I felt the wind pick up and mounting a crest I hollered for joy! I wrapped up, hopped on and headed down. Around the first bend and straight back into a climb.
Let's just say I told the mountain it engaged in unnatural activities with its mother at a rather high volume!

But the descent?? It was fabulous! 

Then it was onto another side road with some climbing but mainly descents that were out of this world! The road was narrow, no markings, twisting this way and that. A sheer drop on one side was both terrifying and thrilling! 











This backroad took me into Tennessee, although I only figured that out when the road signs changed. No "Welcome to Tennessee" here!

With about 30km to go I was spat out onto a mainish road, but now the countryside was different - more open farmland.











My initial impression of Tennessee dogs was positive. Some saw me and ignored me. Some barked and ran along their boundary until I was gone. Others chased half heartedly. In nearly all these cases the dogs were from farms so perhaps they were trained to a better degree.

With about 15 km to go it was getting dark. That last 15 km seemed to take forever. There was a wide shoulder outside the rumble strip that was reasonable to ride in. Near the end I hit some gravel in the dark and nearly came off, but managed not to.

I finally rolled into town and craving 7up pulled into a filling station before hitting the motel.

The motel is very bike friendly!

Just as I was moving my gear into my room, a member of staff came along, enquired if I was on a bike & told me he'd change my room to the ground floor so I could have the bike in the room with me!

I showered and went out for dinner. The food was great - the service crap. Starving, I ordered an appetizer and a main course. The Appetiser came out, then five minutes later my main course. As I was trying to eat they started cleaning up around me. I was damned if I was going to rush my food, but in the end I asked for a to go box and took the remains back to the room. On the way back I stopped at a filling station to buy a beer to wash it down and got the compliment of the month - I was asked for I.D.!! 😀


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2019)

Day 53 Monday, November 04, Etowah to Dayton TN 78km

Today was going to be my "taking it easy day", so I had a relaxing morning, taking my time over breakfast and packing up.

I'm running into a bit of a wall, physically, not mentally - there's two more big climbs ahead and I don't want to overload myself. Also, there's the accommodation options, or more precisely, the lack of them.

I settled on Dayton as my destination, approximately 80km away and set off.

At first I was on a major highway, but with a lovely wide shoulder that gave me all the room I needed to meander through the crap that resides there in total safety. Well done, Tennessee!





After about 8km I turned off onto a minor road and that's when the fun began! Hardly any traffic, constant ups and downs, normally gentle enough but with enough steep ones to keep it interesting, decent surface and fair weather.















The landscape alternated between open farmland and forests and was very pleasant to ride through even on this cool day.

It seemed like I was linking smaller roads together by the occasional run down a major highway. One of the highlights was crossing the Tennessee river, on a bridge with a massive shoulder. The surface of the bridge, however, was cut into grooves and the noise of vehicles going over it was unbelievable! It sounded like rockets whining overhead! 















I'm having mixed feelings about the Tennessee dogs and less mixed feelings about some of the residents, dog related.

I had several encounters with dogs today, two memorable ones more so due to the human involvement than the dogs.

A difference here is that people seem to have more than one dog. Another difference is that the dogs seem to know their boundaries better and rarely stray over them. 

A typical example was cycling past a house with three big shepherds, all napping. When they awoke the reacted like the hounds of Hell, leaping and barking ferociously towards me, absolutely scaring the bejaysus out of me only to stop at the edge of the road. In hindsight, harmless, in the moment terrifying.

Other times dogs would just sit and look at me as I went past. 

The fact that the country is opening up means that they can see me from much farther away than before. Quite often they'll be standing waiting for me. I'm finding it quite nerve wracking knowing that they've seen me, waiting for their response.

The first serious encounter was with two shepherds, on my side of the road who raced towards me as I struggled up a hill. I immediately took to the other side of the road (a risk, although hardly any cars were on this road and I can generally hear them well in advance anyway). They didn't stop at the side as I had hoped, and were thwarted by a pickup approaching from behind. Naively, I thought the driver would slow down to shield me as I was almost at the brow of the hill, but not a hope - they continued on. I was able to keep the two at bay until I could accelerate down and away from them.

The second was a bit more sinister. Ascending a gentle hill, wide open landscape, a house and outbuildings a couple of hundred meters on my right with two men working on an ATV. I didn't hear him at all, just caught a glimpse of him as he reached my back wheel. A brown bull terrier. In fairness, he was a fine looking dog! A shiny coat, he was lean and fit - very healthy looking. Immediately I yelled at him, reached for the water and hopped off the bike. He pulled back, then lunged at me and got a faceful of water which only seemed to make him angrier. Since the road was so open it was difficult to prevent him coming in behind me so I concentrated my efforts on getting the attention of the two men. I'm fairly sure they deliberately ignored me for a while, but eventually, one looked up, saw the situation, said something to the other guy and they both went back to work!
I was trying to push the bike up the hill and keep the dog away from me. He kept circling, looking for his chance. 
Eventually, one of the guys called the dog and he responded, starting to run towards them, but quickly turned around and came at me at full pelt. At this point, one of the men drove away in the ATV while the other one went indoors.
As I slowly worked my way up the hill, the dog would drop back, then make a run at me. At the top, when I judged he was far enough away I hopped back on and started to ride off. He gave chase again. More water, more snarling, again off the bike. Eventually, he headed for home so I climbed on again and set off. Thank God for mirrors! He was back, chasing me down again. More water, more snarling and he finally left me alone.

These dog incidents are really starting to take their toll. It's at the point now where every house is making me nervous. Yesterday, I was sure I saw a dog waiting to pounce - it was a mailbox and today a child's swing hanging from a tree looked like a dog leaping through the air for a moment. I'm telling myself that I've handled each and every one ok, so should be taking positives from that. At the same time, I can't help thinking of all the simple things that could happen - a dog in front of me during a descent at 35, 40 or 50 kmh. Or a dog lunging at the same time a car is going by. 

To be honest, later in the day when I ended up on a busier road I was quite happy to be there - nobody let's their dogs loose beside a busy road. Near the end of the day I chose to stay on the busy road with no shoulder and reasonably heavy traffic rather than take a side road that would inevitably mean dogs.

A nice picture to lighten the mood!😀






After the Tennessee river the shoulder I had been enjoying (as wide as a lane) disappeared so it was a reasonably busy 2 lane road with no shoulder until Dayton. There were quite a few big trucks which I was only too happy to pull in for. The shockwave when those guys hurtle past can be wobble inducing.






The motel is cheap & cheerful. My neighbour has a pick-up that has recently been bashed in on both sides, the windows don't seem to close and I can't but help get the feeling that he's on the run from something!

I spent some time on the phone with T-Mobile because the credit is up on the SIM I bought in New Jersey. I can't do it online and they can't do it over the phone because they don't recognise Dutch credit cards. The only thing I can do is visit a T-Mobile shop. And they're only in the big cities! 

Geographically, in my path there's a line of mountains, a valley and another line of mountains. The issue is a lack of accommodation in the valley part. I may need to do two monster climbs tomorrow. Not only that, but they are steep with gradients in the low 20%. If I stick to main roads I can minimise some of that.

I'm going to sleep on it and make up my mind in the morning.





If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Nov 2019)

Day 54 Tuesday, November 04, Dayton TN to Fall Creek Falls State Park, 60 km

They say pride is a sin; if that's true, I'm a little sinful right now!

I decided this morning to take on the two climbs necessary to get me to a campsite. Geography was in my way, a long climb, a drop into a valley losing all the height gained, then another climb just as high. My alternative was to meander along the valley to a motel and put the second climb off till the next day. 

I was awake early, but lazed under the blankets, then a blitz of speed and I was out the door just before 9. Two chambermaids were very interested in my bike & journey so I posed for photos with them, then off to Subway for my breakfast. 

Well fed (and watered - l've learned my lesson!) I was ready to hit the road about 9:30. It wasn't too cold, about 12C and the sky was looking clear. Leaving Dayton was straightforward enough and I was quickly out into the country and into the climb.






Cycle.travel had plotted a long route with lots of rural roads. Komoot suggested a more direct route, at least the first half, was shorter and not so much climbing. I tried to alter the cycle.travel route but it's not the easiest task on a phone, so I loaded the Komoot route and followed that. (Sorry, Richard)

The main road was great. A reasonable shoulder meant that I could slowly head upwards relatively safely. The road was wide with an extra climbing lane on my side reducing the traffic pressure even more.






The gradient was gentle enough that I was never in danger of having to push.

On and upwards I went, long straight stretches, gentle curves. Because this was a main road there were crash barriers along the side, offering a handy place to sit and rest occasionally.

When I got to the top I was presented with a series of rolling hills. On the first descent I got blasted with the wind. I was going to have to be careful.





I entered Bledsoe county and promptly lost my shoulder. Still, traffic was light, so it wasn't too much of an issue.





About noon, I began the descent to Pikeville. It was fantastic! The road narrowed, or at least the countryside closed in, there were sweeping curves, shelter from the worst of the wind and a gradient shallow enough that I could really cut loose without going too fast. The surface was a bit dodgy at times and the crash barriers might be effective for a car or truck, but if I got too close to the margin I'd be in trouble!





It was really great, flying downhill, turning left & right, the sun shining through the leaves.





Then it levelled out onto a highway stretching away in the distance to Pikeville.





Pikeville's a quaint little town. I stopped at a little diner for lunch and seriously considered going back to a B&B I'd passed on the outskirts. I was thinking it'd be nice to spend a sunny afternoon in a little town. In the end, I decided to move on, stopping to buy something for dinner.

After Pikeville, it was more minor roads and an immediate climb. I lost my jacket and overtrousers for the first time in days.

This climb was slower and steeper than the earlier one. The turns were very tight, so much so, that had I a riding buddy whoever was first would be able to spit on the second from above!





Gizmo directed me onto a gravel side road and then lost the plot altogether. Thanks, Komoot! After a km I turned around and rejoined the main road and continued up, this time having to push. 

To be honest, I was at the top before I knew it, so stopped to sit in the sun and enjoy the moment. At this stage I had 24 km to go and I was feeling very good.

When I got going again there was a nice bit if downhill through open farming country, then the road turned to tar covered with loose stones. Tough & slow going, made all the better by the introduction of dogs. All day I hadn't had a problem as I was on main roads. Now, they were everywhere. The worst was when I passed three houses, two on one side and one on the other, all with loose dogs. There were at least six going for me as I was trying to control the bike on the slidy surface with one hand, pedal with one leg because the other was kicking out and simultaneously throw water in every direction. Once clear, I stopped to refill my water bottle and my left leg would not stop trembling.

I cycled on in a somber mood until I met this.





A fire road through the forest! This country is amazing, dragging me down into the dumps then presenting me with this! 
The light through the trees was spectacular. The surface was fun to ride on, even the uphill bits. There was no noise except me. I met one car the entire time.

If you ever find yourself bouncing down a forest road in a Prius there's a good chance you're lost. If, in that situation you find yourself asking me where you might be, then you're really lost!

The only car I met was lost! I took out my phone, fired up Google maps (saved) and showed them where they were.

Onwards I went thinking it doesn't get much better than this. Then it did. Out of the forest onto the smoothest, quietest road! I was flying along now, only a couple of Kms from the campsite. 
I stopped to take a photo and heard some noise in the trees to my left. Nothing unusual in that. The ditches are full of animals and there is often the noise of creatures scurrying around. But this noise was different - it was "bigger" than usual. So I had a good look. Then I saw a shadowy bear shape and instead of the typical flight or fight response I had a foto or flight response. I zipped up my phone and took off with full force. I heard some more crashing from the trees and figuring I'd been spotted, dared to turn around to see if I was being followed. All I saw was the white rear end of a fairly large deer bouncing away from me!





Then Komoot directed me into a forest. Not a forest road. Just a bunch of trees. Bah! Now I wasn't as close as I thought I was. I continued on, past a scout camp, a group camp, maintenance camp until eventually I rolled up & checked myself in.

I've got a primitive site for the night. There's nobody within at least 500 meters of me. There's a shop that I went to for a treat after my great day and they sold beer!!! Normally State Parks ban alcohol!! Not Tennessee, which has jumped right to the top of State Parks in my book!

It's going to be cold tonight. I even lit a campfire, there was so much fallen wood around. Tomorrow I'll probably head for McMinnville and motel it, then another night in another State Park and roll into Nashville sometime on Friday. 

Also, tomorrow I'll be entering a new timezone and getting some of my evening daylight back. 'Tis all very confusing. 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Nov 2019)

Day 54 Some extra pics


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2019)

Day 55 Wednesday, November 05, Fall Creek Falls State Park to McMinnville 58km


Due to accommodation options, today wasn't going to be the hardest day ever. However, I had no idea just how good it was going to be!!!


I was up early enough, despite the cold morning temperature of 2C.






It was so cold I needed the winter add-on for my trangia and the honey was very thick & gloopy, refusing to come out if its bottle.

I know I've said it before, but mornings in these parks are wonderful, especially in my secluded spot. There is such a feeling of calm, of harmony, of peace that I find it hard to break away. Mind you, the cold this morning helped me break that habit!

I was all packed up & ready to go, but before I left I stopped at the check in office to pass on my compliments. The WiFi that was out of range last night was good and strong, so I pulled up at a picnic table and did some stuff online while I could. I think it was well after 10 when I was heading off, but the advantage was that it was now warmer.

A note about Fall Creek Falls State Park. It is simply magnificent! - and I only saw a tiny fraction of it. The roads in and around the park are unbelievably perfect. There's not many places that are the perfect place to start your day, but this is definitely one of them!






There were no big climbs today, just a constant series of ups and downs. Reasonable gradients, good roads, minimal traffic, add in blue skies, a warming sun and the Fall colours in full intensity it was a pretty perfect day.





With no real pressure I could sit back and enjoy. So I did!





The roads were pretty much main roads, so that meant no dog encounters. The only two dog situations they were behind fences. I needed that.







Two drivers pulled in to talk to me today - both called John. The first John, a former engineer, was obsessed with my Extra wheel trailer. His mother was from Ireland (nearly everybody I've met here claims Irish ancestry) but he's never been. The second John pulled into the shoulder in front of me. He took his time getting out of his pick-up and I genuinely didn't know if he was friend or foe. Turns out he's a recumbent trike rider. He'd seen me earlier and told me I was on the wrong road? I told him I'd had a great day! On a trike he needs a wide shoulder so apparently my choice to ride a road without the maximum shoulder possible was alien to him.











Near the day's end I pulled in at a filling station for some food. They had a diner style setup with Bibles on every table! Religion is everywhere here. Christian religion. Few town(land)s marked on a map will have a store or a filling station, but every group of houses will have at least one church, if not several, often at different ends of the community. Sometimes at a crossroads in the middle of nowhere there will be a church.





Also, there are a few "camps" at some of these churches, or their lands, that will show up as Campgrounds on Google Maps. They're campgrounds, alright, but not as I know them! They are for camping retreats, mainly for young people.

Regularly along the side of the road there are homemade signs simply saying "Jesus" or "Jesus Saves". People also place signs on their lawns.

God is everywhere, it seems, except behind the wheel!

The last few Kms were all on a big highway but with a healthy wide shoulder as seems to be the norm in these parts.






The motel isn't particularly cheap and certainly not cheerful, but it'll do as my temporary home for tonight.

Tomorrow will be more interesting! The forecast tonight is for rain that will last until well into tomorrow. Then tomorrow night temperatures are due to drop to well below zero - and I'll be camping again!

Then, all going well, Friday I'll make it to Nashville and phase one will be complete! I'm definitely excited to be meeting a couple of friends. I think they're a bit amazed that I'll be rolling up on a bike! Honestly, I'm a little amazed too!

Went out for dinner, thinking I'd try Applebee's instead of the Mickey D's, KFC, Taco Bell & multiple pizza places in the area.

Again, my starter had barely been delivered when my main course came out! This time I wasn't accepting it. I have no problem eating on my own. I enjoy the people watching, doing a little eavesdropping and watching the operation. God knows I've worked in the industry long enough! But getting dumped on just because I'm alone is not acceptable!

I got apologies and a fresh main course when it was due and then was presented with my bill before I'd finished eating. I'm beginning to think it's not just motorists that have it in for people on bikes - chain restaurants do too! 😀



If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2019)

Day 56 Thursday, November 06, McMinnville to Murfreesboro 68km

I slept poorly. The motel wasn't the best and there were more than a few odd guests.

I was awake at 7, looked outside, saw the rain and went back to bed! 

When I did drag my ass out to the "Continental Breakfast" I wished I hadn't bothered. Watery coffee and teenytiny muffins are not the best way to begin a cycling day.

I packed up & rolled out into the rain. To say it was pouring would be exaggerating, to say it was drizzling would be an understatement. It was going to be a wet day!

I set off on a big highway out of town, but quickly turned off and into the countryside. Despite the gloom, the Fall colours were everywhere, a welcome warmth in the nippy air.










All was going well, crossing Highway 70S. I ignored the dead end sign, thinking there must be a way I could bike. But the road just stopped dead. Nowhere to go except back. Thanks, Komoot! Now, it was fair to say it was pouring, too.

Taking out my phone I fired up Google Maps and had a look. I'd be able to turn off further down and link up with Komoot's route, but looking at the four lanes of 70S and it's wide shoulder, I decided I was going to do something different - stick on the highway. I figured there'd be more places to stop, less chance of another Komoot cock-up and I could take advantage of the wide shoulder & listen to some music.

I fired up my i-pod, and set it to play an entire Springsteen concert from Adelaide a few years ago, inspired by last night's movie - There's a great version of the "Ghost of Tom Joad" with Tom Morello in there somewhere.

I rarely listen to music on the bike. It takes away an important sense and I think it makes me less approachable to people with headphones in my ears. But I like it in the rain.

So, back in the shoulder of the Highway, I plugged in and pulled off. The first song was "Summertime Blues" - someone was having a laugh!






It makes no sense - it was pouring rain, it was cold, there was a nasty wind, but it was fabulous! I was belting out the songs at full volume, occasionally even playing the imaginary drums in front of the bike! 






Rolling slowly up the hills singing along, flying down the other side with a cover of "Highway to Hell" blasting! A different kind of cycling, but just perfect for the conditions!





At a certain point while climbing one of the gentle hills I became aware that something was bouncing around just outside my consciousness. I relaxed, tried to empty my mind of everything and eventually it revealed itself - on a windy hill somewhere in Tennessee, with the rain pouring down, with cars and trucks roaring by at 65 mph there was absolutely nowhere else I'd rather be. As feelings go, it's a pretty good one.





About 11 I came across a filling station just off the highway so pulled in for some coffee & food. To say the welcome was warm would be like describing an iceberg as warm. The woman behind the counter was complaining that I was leaking water on the floor. I took my coffee and food outside. After a while she came outside all friendly. She needed something. I got a ladder, climbed up & changed the price for gas on the big board at the road. And got a free Coke!





After the stop, I was a bit cold, but warmed up once I had a bit of rhythm. The four lanes were reduced to two through a town, then back up to four again for the run to Murfreesboro. 





The rain never let up and I was getting progressively wetter, although, not much colder. Even the nasty wind was manageable. Thinking ahead, I wasn't looking forward to camping in the rain, especially with the temperatures to drop well below zero.






On the edge of Murfreesboro I pulled into another filling station for more coffee and had a quick look online. I found a bargain motel, booked it and cycled over.

The ladies behind the desk were the most animated I've come across. I requested a ground floor room (for the bike) and an old cloth to clean the bike. They couldn't have been nicer. No problem to take the bike in, no problem for a cloth - here's a pile of old towels. A hot shower, hang up all the wet gear and I was ready for an afternoon of leisure!

It's strange - a cold, wet day, riding a road I'd normally avoid like the plague turned out to be the day I couldn't wipe the smile off my face! 



If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (10 Nov 2019)

Day 57 Friday, November 07, Murfreesboro to Nashville 72km

After the rain of yesterday it was great to wake up to bright sunshine! It was cold, though. I had a decent breakfast at the motel, packed up my gear in a leisurely manner and got ready to hit the road.

Rick and George, my friends and hosts had warned me about Nashville traffic and offered to meet me close to Nashville & drive me to their place. I'm sure that really they were trying to organise a parade for my grand arrival and being a modest chap I didn't like the sound of that! In any case, they wouldn't be home until after 5pm (probably preparing all that ticker tape for the parade) so I was in no real rush. Ideally, I'd be there before dark.

Setting off from Murfreesboro wasn't exactly easy. Big, busy roads, no shoulder and heavy traffic. I took to the pavement. Despite the Sandy roads in North Carolina and the forest roads in South Carolina & Tennessee I can honestly say these pavements were the toughest, bumpiest, trickiest surface I rode on.





One out of the city I pulled in for a coffee. Sitting down in the sun I had the chance to ponder on the relatively swift change in the weather. It was about 10C, with a chilling wind blowing from the North. A couple of weeks ago it was twice that! The cold weather seems to be here to stay.

Back on the road, I was on my friend from yesterday - Highway 70S. This time I left the music off. The shoulder was narrower, the surface worse, the traffic was heavier and today there was no rumble strip. Yesterday, if a car moved into the shoulder behind me the rumble strip noise would wake the dead.





There were at least two intersections with an Interstate highway and several towns spread out along the highway so there was always something to be paying attention to. The shoulder often disappeared in a town, resuming again on the outskirts. After about 25 km the shoulder narrowed but a bike lane appeared. Then disappeared for a few hundred meters, then reappeared again. I'd pay good money to see the planner for these bike paths ride a bike on one!







The intersections with the Interstates were tricky, having to move from the shoulder (right) across the filter lane into no-man's-land then back across the entry filter lane into the shoulder again. It can be tricky, especially since it seems American automobiles have a plague of defective indicators. I reckon only about 5-10% of indicators appear to be in working order!

Also, on one of the intersections I got another open window yelling experience, although this time it was a high pitched scream. It was a little more effective than the YAH of a few days ago, but a mild irritant in the big scheme of things. Giving them the finger though, did make me feel surprisingly better!





When the bike lane disappeared for good I turned off into suburbia for a little while before passing a lake (behind trees) on a busy road with a decent bike path.

I stopped for a pee, leaving the bike leaning against a crash barrier. I stepped well away from the road and facing into the woods relieved the pressure on my bladder. Until something started moving and cracking branches in front of me. The trees were so dense I could see nothing, but the noise continued. I quickly zipped up & hightailed it out of there!

I came to a dam and turned off for a few kms of dedicated cycling trail along a river. There was a definite drop in temperature. After the trail it was back into the early evening traffic, although I had a bike path which made for easy enough progress.










I wasn't too far away now and turned onto the road where the lads lived. Four lanes, full of traffic in both directions, no shoulder at all. And I had 7km to cycle down. No way! That was going to be a suicide mission. Instead, I pulled off the road, fired up cycle.travel and plotted a new (longer) route avoiding the crazy road.

This route was far nicer, along a two lane road with a low speed limit. It was certainly busy, but I had no problems with the traffic. Occasionally I'd pull in to let traffic by but that was really more for my benefit than theirs. Each time I stopped, even for just a minute I could feel the cold. Gizmo was now telling me it was 1C.

Then I hit a lake and ride through residential areas before making my way over a river then back on to the crazy road for a few hundred meters.










I had arrived!! Stage one complete!

I'm going to be taking some time off here and enjoy being treated like a king! There's a few upgrades the bike should have had before I left that I'll take care of here. I also need to properly repair the cat damage on my tent fly. I also need to figure out a route for the next stage of my trip. The next intermediate destination will be Austin, Texas. I have half an idea to visit New Orleans on the way. I'll need to check out the logistics of that as well as taking a bit of time to check out the Mexican leg that comes after.

Oh, I'll also need to visit a few honky tonks and enjoy some of my favourite music. Of course, there's lots of food I need to try too!


To be continued…….

Edited to add:
I also saw my first (live) raccoon! 
After wild camping in a National Forest, several campsites where lockers were provided to store food, where practically every other campsite had poles to hang food from, being marooned for 36 hours in a primitive forest site, hearing strange animal sounds outside my tent, my first glimpse of one of these beasts was from the shoulder of a busy 4 lane highway!! He was scurrying across the large lawn in front of a church. 


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2019)

Days 58 - 68 Nashville 0km

I'm not going to go into all the details of what I did in Nashville, but I had a lot of fun, indulged in a lot of food and generally had a great time.

I was very lucky and privileged to have friends who made me so welcome. They even had Kerrygold butter for me!

Nashville, or Music City USA, has a booming tourist trade. A lot of that tourist trade might be convention guests or bachelorette parties, but there's a lot to see and do. Broadway is party central and even at 4:30 pm on a Monday was jammed. A weekend night and it would be my idea of Hell! (I must be getting old and grumpy….ier!)

Of course, having locals to guide me around meant it was a different experience than if I had landed up on my own.

I got to do all the touristy things.

I visited the Ryman, home of the original Grand Ol' Opry, now restored to it's former glory, but still showing signs of its religious past - concert goers sit in pews. The night I visited Ryan Bingham was playing - I'd seen it months before but it was already sold out then.






The Johnny Cash museum was very interesting, if a little small and very busy. Other than the place where you can remix his songs (sacrilege!) it's a place I'd definitely recommend. There's an area playing the video to "Hurt" on a loop and I'd challenge anyone to spend some time watching and listening and not leave with a lump in their throat, at least.

Maybe I'm just weird but I find Cash's version to be defiant and a song sung by someone who's ready for whatever is next.





I got to visit a genuine Honky Tonk on Broadway, not one of the multifloored party central places jammed with party goers at 4 pm on a workday. The solo singer would have been paying for the privilege of playing, his source of income tips from the customers. The Nashville music industry is alive, well and tough!





I did get to see one of my musical heros - Bob Schneider. He's prolific, performs many different genres and was one of the reasons I was going to Austin - he has a weekly residency there. On the European side of the Atlantic he's unknown, but in these parts he's admired for his live shows. When I saw tickets for his Nashville show I wasted no time (the fact that karaoke was provisionally penned in for that night was no influence!). The two lads who were more than a bit sceptical even enjoyed it. 

What was also interesting to see was how respectful the crowd were. This is definitely a music town.






Another interesting place was the Opryland hotel, formerly the largest hotel in the world. It has three giant garden areas inside the hotel, a canal (with boats!) and is just spectacular! They do a massive light display for Christmas too. I was sure it was going to be tacky in a way only the U.S. can do, but I was genuinely blown away. In one massive lobby there are murals of "Old Nashville". In one tiny corner of one mural I was shown the surname of one of my friends representing his great grandfather's business. To be honest, I found this attention to detail to be charming.

I think like most places in the States there are many, many food options but the Nashville signature dish is hot chicken. I won't disgust you with the details but I will warn you that it.is.HOT!

I also took a side trip to Cincinnati which I found to be charming and their signature food - Cincinnati Chilli (not chilli at all) served with spaghetti was delicious!





On this side trip I got to visit a throwback to the "Old America", a couple of roadside attractions that used to be dotted all over the country, a place for travellers to visit and locals to make some money. When the Interstates were built most that were on the old roads died off, but a few still exist - a throwback to simpler times.

Dinosaur World. Old school, definitely, but a lot of fun!
















Nashville is a car town. Places are far apart and traffic is heavy. There are some parkways but getting around on a bike is challenging! For instance, when I needed to get to a Mall under my own steam a 6km trip in a car turned into a 35km trip on a bike! Since some of that was on a mixed use trail that closed at dusk it would have been much worse after dark!

I got work done on the bike - a new Bottom Bracket, chainset, cassette & chain. I got the wheels trued and the hubs serviced too.

I got one of my tent poles restrung ( the elastic got frayed the time the tip got stuck) and I got patches for the cat claw holes in the tent. Ironically, as I was repairing the tent there were two particularly malevolent, evil, sinister cats from the neighbours watching me intently. I was sure that if I had left the tent alone they would have continued their feline friend's destruction.

I also got my hands on some "Gorilla Tape" supposedly Superior to normal gaffer tape. I used it to repatch and reinforce the panniers that got ripped. I have to say these panniers are only a couple of years old, have had minimal use and do not seem to be anywhere as robust as the traditional material Ortlieb use. 

Oh! I also bought a can opener! I don't have one and have never needed one camping before - every can had a ringpull. Not here, though! I got caught out in my first few days and had to ask a woman in an RV if I could borrow one. She took the can off me and opened it with her counter mounted electric opener - nothing like roughing it!

I also took a bit of time to plan the next stage. To get to Austin, I had two basic choices. I could take the Natchez Trace south to Natchez, join the Mississippi River Trail as far as the Southern Tier route then follow that to Austin or I could cut across directly to the Mississippi River Trail and follow that south, visiting Memphis along the way.

My understanding is that the MRT is not the greatest of routes and often is far from the river. I figured the Natchez Trace would be quieter at this time of year, although there can be big gaps in campsites and provisions.

I've postponed making a decision on New Orleans until I'm closer. It seems like unless I want to cycle back from New Orleans the way I went down I'll have to go along the coast and that looks busier. Since I'm neither a fan of doubling back nor busy roads I may skip my visit to Lake Pontchartrain.

This means that the MRT and Southern Tier parts will put me back on ACA routes. I've learned my lesson so I've a backup option if I don't like them. However, the ACA give contact details for a museum, a fire station and a church who host campers so I would like to try those! 

Since Nashville was always "Phase One" I took a few minutes and compiled some stats, based on starting in Norfolk, VA.

I cycled 2287 km.

I climbed 21,111 meters.

I was on the road for 34 days (incl rest days), giving a daily average of 67 km per day every day.

When I "plan" a trip I reckon on averaging 80km per day. The distance normally suits me and my frequent stopping style. For this trip I reduced that down to 60km to allow for rest days/touristy things or whatever the road throws up. I'm quite chuffed that it seems to be reasonably accurate.







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2019)

Day 69, Wednesday November 20, Nashville to Tennessee Highway 50 Bicycle-only Campground, at milepost 408 100km

Before I go any further I should explain that I haven't actually been in Nashville the past week and a half. I've actually been in Madison, a little North of Nashville. That's relevant only because to leave Nashville I first had to enter Nashville.

I was up early, but not as early as I wanted and even though most of the packing was already done, it still took a while to get everything ready. At least I didn't forget anything!

I said my goodbyes and headed off with mixed feelings. On the one hand it was great to be back on the road, resuming my little adventure. On the other hand I was leaving friends behind. If I had a third hand there was also the fact that Nashville had been a great target to aim for because I wanted to go there and I had friends there. From now on, it's places I want to go, but without the friends. Nashville was always going to be my "safety net". After Nashville there's just the fall below me.

I'd gone about a kilometre (uphill of course) when I realised I had forgotten the flag for my trailer, so I turned around and bugged George one last time.

The country around here is all hills. Constant hills. I was quickly learning that 10 days of decadent living is not conducive to cycling up hills!





The route kept me off the main roads bringing me mostly through the suburbs. Other than the hills, it was very pretty country.

I stopped for a quick breakfast in Mickey D's and availed of the pedestrian crossing lights to walk my bike across four lanes of traffic. One car didn't stop. I pulled the bike back and he barely missed me. Had I been riding the bike I was a goner. 

I continued on through the poorer part of Nashville's edges, then the city proper, my route stymied by roadworks and preparations for a Christmas festival.





Getting out the other side proved more difficult, the bike lane disappearing regularly to reappear only to disappoint me once more. And some pretty steep hills. My legs were protesting and doing their impressions of rubber stumps.

Getting off the last main four lane road took about 25 minutes as I had to turn left. Wary of the traffic I cycled on to a junction to avail of the pedestrian crossing, having to cross three times because the one crossing I wanted was broken.

Ummmm maybe Nashville was trying to tell me something!

I was expecting to start the Natchez Trace Parkway after about 35-40 km so stopped for my last Nashville meal at the Loveless Cafe. They're famous for their biscuits. To anyone not from the South, biscuits are bread!

There was no grand fanfare at the start of the Trace, just a good quality two lane road. Since commercial traffic is prohibited I was hoping it would be quiet at this time of the year and I wasn't wrong. I've attended livelier funerals!





For a cyclist it's great! Interesting scenery, especially at this time of the year - the Fall colours are everywhere. There's so little traffic (and they must use the other lane to overtake) that a shoulder is not missed. But the hills!!! They're constant! I climbed to about 300meters then there was a rolling down to 280, up to 320, back to 290, up to 330 and so on. Steep buggers too!
















But it was so quiet! Cars went by at the rate of one every twenty minutes. Sometimes there was the sound of traffic on another road, somewhere, but mainly it was still and quiet, except for the sounds of squirrels in the trees and the grunting, groaning and ocassional swearing of a cyclist.

A highway passing underneath





My target for the night was one of four bike only campsites that I reckoned was about 55 km along the Trace. I had expected to be making better time once out of the city but the hills were not cooperating. I was starting to think I'd be under pressure to make it by dark.





As the sun was setting I pulled into an area where people can access the many hiking trails in the park. There was a carpark, empty, and a toilet block. Hmmm. Handy place to camp I thought. There was grass behind the building so I'd be shielded from view on the road. However, I knew there were specific places where camping is allowed (this wasn't one), I expected someone official along to lock up the bathrooms and I was afraid I'd be kicked out after setting up camp. So I set off again into the failing light.

Dumbass! I should have stayed!

When the night finally fell, the whole world became dark. Only dark. The stars that has been visible in the last light were hidden by cloud. There's not a reflector, a light, a cat's eye in the middle of the road. Just black.

Except when a car went by, of course, and the many bridges along the way had a flashing orange light. But the rest of the time? Totally dark.

And with the darkness were the sounds coming from the trees on my left and right. The nocturnals were coming out to play. 

It was such a special experience that I pulled in and savoured the experience for about ten minutes. No cars passed but I could hear noise all around me, seeing nothing.

There's a song about this very thing.

View: https://youtu.be/cferMD6R4Ew


When I set off again I realised that the biggest risk was a small animal wandering into the road in front of me. It sure makes a pleasant change from bears, snakes and alligators!

When I eventually came to the junction with Highway 50 where the campsite was supposed to be, I had a terrible job finding it in the dark. Like the previous place it's a location where people can access the trails. I have a bin, a picnic table but no bathrooms or water. I should have stayed in the other place.

I got the tent set up, changed my clothes and decided against cooking. It's very cold out there. Instead dinner was some jerky and wraps of peanut butter and honey. Sigh. I'm back to road food!

I've climbed into my sleeping bag and in for a long night. Tomorrow will either be quite long or quite short. Campsites are well spaced on the NTP. I've a sneaky suspicion it'll be a shorter day.

It's clear that one of my greatest challenges will be the short days. It was dark at 4pm. Pitch dark by 4:30. I'm not a fan of riding in the dark. On any other road I'd have stayed at my first option, but given the excellent quality of the surface and the low, low volume of traffic I was happy to continue. But thinking further along, cycling and finding camping spots will not be pleasant. At the same time, I like to take time to stop and enjoy where I am. I don't like rushing. I'll just have to see how it goes.

The good news is that I have a new song swirling around in my head - Willie Nelson's "On the road again". 


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2019)

Day 70 Thursday, November 21 Highway 50 Bicycle-only Campground Meriwether Lewis Camp ground 40 km

Well, one thing is for certain - I've lost my ooomph! Not that I had much to begin with but today was tough and for the last 10 kms I was all out of puff.

Last night I was asleep before 8:30 and slept soundly until after midnight. Thereafter it was less settled until it was time to get up. Then I slept soundly again!

Truth be told, I was pretty sure today was going to be a short day. The next bike campground was about 140 km away, the next regular campground was about 40km. Tough call!

Just to explain about the campgrounds; there are four campgrounds specific for cyclists and several more general campgrounds all run by the State, all free, but with basic facilities. For example my spot last night had no water (at this time of the year) and no toilets. In fairness, both these were available about two kms down the road.

Tonight is a bigger specific campground for RVs as well as tents with a toilet block (no showers) and running water. 

As well as these there are also private campgrounds, almost all are off the route, but not too far away.

Other than the average 100 mile gaps between the bike campgrounds it's a pretty good setup for cycle tourers. Also, some of the bigger attractions along the way will have a toilet block (with water) and normally electrical sockets if you have a good look around.

So I had a lazy morning in no real rush to get moving. When I did I promptly stopped to use the bathrooms, fill my water bottles and have some breakfast. 

The first thing I noticed was a wind coming from the wrong direction. As the route wound it's way around it was always there, either as a cross wind or as a headwind. The only kind thing I can say about it is that it wasn't cold, coming from the south, but it fairly bugged me on the descents having to work hard.










At first, the landscape opened up into farmland but later closed in again with trees on either side. Again, traffic was almost negligible. This, coupled with the lack of noise (except the wind) had me feeling very alone. I could stop and rest on one of the many viaducts and see no trace of human life. I did see a young deer, a tortoise crossing the road, many, many squirrels and one, fairly large unidentified animal. 





Like yesterday it was either uphill or down. The climbs look gentle, but I'm starting to think there's something magnetic in the ground that is pulling at me! 

About half way along I pulled out my iPod more for company than anything else and continued on listening to my favourite country boys. 





Maybe it was the i-pod, but not long after big wet drops started hitting me. Looking at the sky it didn't look serious, but when they came back in a little while I stopped and donned my full rain gear. The temperatures can drop quickly here and I don't want to be cold and wet. As it turned out the rain spattered on and off, but I never really got wet.










As I said, the last 10kms were a killer. I just had nothing to give. The batteries were empty. Eventually, I saw the sign for my turn off for the campground - only 1 mile (uphill of course!). When I turned off there were three separate areas signposted - a car park with bathrooms (I pulled in for water, just in case), the official Merriwether Lewis site and finally the campground another 3-4 km up the road.

I arrived and had a look around. The RV sites are located around the toilet block, while the tent friendly sites are further away. I think they have that backwards! In any case, I was able to get the tent set up in daylight and boiled the kettle while doing so, rewarding myself with a cup of coffee for a job well done.

By 4pm it was dark.






I've climbed into the tent, changed into my night clothes - all lovely warm wool and into my sleeping bag to write this. I'll wrap up later and cook my dinner before settling down properly for the night.

I've had zero phone signal since I started on the NTP but the last weather forecast I saw was for rain tomorrow. It had five raindrops so that means serious rain! Also, temperatures were forecast to drop at the same time. I have a few options for tomorrow based on the weather. The next bike campground is 100kms away. The next (private) campground is about 40 km away. There is also a State Park, but that's a good 25 km off the route, back on a highway. And, if the rain is really bad I have enough food and access to water to stay put. 

I'll see what it's like in the morning.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2019)

Day 71 Friday, November 22

Rainy day at Merriwether Lewis Campground. 0km

When I woke up it was raining pretty heavily, so I rolled over for another nap. When I awoke from that it was still raining so I lay there listening to the sound of falling rain. It's pretty nice so long as you don't have to go out in it.

Leaving Nashville






When it lightened off, I got up and wandered around looking for a faint internet signal. Eventually I had one for long enough to suggest the rain was down for the day. I made some breakfast, a pot of coffee and retired to my tent.

This rain day was nowhere near as exciting as the last one. I had ample food and water. I finished my book, moved on to another, got my postings ready for here (whenever I can get a decent internet connection) then decided to treat myself to an indulgence; I signed up for Netflix last year & have kept the sun running for the moment. It's possible to download programmes for offline use. However, they are time stamped & expire. I had updated them in Nashville so was able to watch Godless & Money Heist on my tablet. 

Peanut butter & chocolate - sounds gross, actually delicious!





I had tuna and crackers for dinner and except for a trip to the bathroom was in the tent all day.

As the rain continued all day I congratulated myself on my decision.

Christmas decorations or a sign of madness?? (Outside Nashville)






If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2019)

Day 72 Saturday, November 23, Merriwether Lewis Campground to Colbert Ferry Park 103 km

Today can be filed under Feckin' eejit day!

I was in no rush to get up today, either. There was still a light drizzle falling and my destination was not too far away.

I got up and made a leisurely breakfast of porridge & coffee, taking my time. Then I set about packing everything up, slowly & carefully since the tent was so wet.

Eventually, I was all packed up & ready to head into the misty drizzle. I was glad I had a short day. I was glad too that the brief forecast I'd been able to snatch with a dodgy internet connection told me the rain would stop any minute now. The tent was soaking and would benefit from an early pitch without rain, to dry it out. I may even have been feeling a little smug!





I was pleased to find that a bit of my oomph was coming back. Despite the drizzle and wind, again head or cross, I was steadily motoring along. The traffic seemed slightly busier, but then again it was a Saturday.





Early on I saw my first bunch of Wild Turkeys. I was already passed them on a descent when I copped them. 

The scenery varied from forests almost to the edge of the road, to more open farmland. On the more open stretches I could really feel the wind, and combined with the rain it could be cold.










Other than the rain lasting longer and sometimes being heavier than I expected, I was flying along, happy out with my iPod playing in my ears.










After about 35km I pulled in to check my bearings. The campground I was heading for should be about 5km down the road. This would leave me a gentle 65km or so for Sunday.

I found the campsite, alright - about 20 km behind me!! Dumbass screwed up the distance and sailed past, obliviously! (In fairness to my good self, it was a private RV park, off the route.)

The only other option was to double back a few km and take a highway 25 km to a state Park. That would mean the same 25km to get back on route tomorrow. There aren't a lot of roads in this part of the world. Of course, I could just continue on to Colbert Creek (Sunday's destination), but that was another 65 km down the road and I had been wasting precious daylight faffing all morning!

I set off again, refusing to go backwards, my annoyance at myself providing decent energy to my legs.

I pulled off the route into the town of Collinwood for some hot food. Once away from the protection of the trees, the wind blasted me ferociously.I was starting to cool down now. It was a little after 1 pm and the temperature was dropping from a high of 12C down to 8C. The restaurant itself was cool and I started shivering from the cold.

Across the road I could see the town's motel and was really, really tempted.

Since I was in town I had a weak internet signal so had a look at what elevation I had to face for the next 55 odd km. Thankfully, it was trending down, so I decided to go for it.

This is another bike only campsite, so no showers or other luxuries. I layered up against the cold & set off again.

Surprisingly, once moving I started to warm up again and moved steadily along, although at times the wind was tricky.

I passed into a new State, Alabama, with a sign that showed no evidence of being shot at.





The rain actually stopped and the sky in front of me was brightening up. Things were looking up!

In all seriousness there hasn't been a great variety of scenery the past few days. Mainly trees on both sides of the road, sometimes opening up to farmland, the occasional creek and that's about it. But I don't find it boring at all. The road has a way of weaving, up, down, left or right that I find mysterious. I want to see what's over the brow of the hill, or around the bend.





Then, as it started to get dark the rain started again. Finally, I was approaching the Tennessee river (again) and my campsite was on the far side 





I'd hoped for a spectacular sunset picture from the bridge - the river is a mile wide - but it was already too dark.

After the bridge, I turned off for the recreation area & bike campground. In the dark I couldn't find where I was supposed to camp, so I'm beside the river, close to bathrooms in a picnic area. Nobody's around and if tomorrow is bright & dry I'll have a fantastic view with my breakfast.

Dark & raining was not how I had planned my camping tonight. The slight wind did a fair job of drying out the floor and the hand drier in the bathroom removed any dampness from my sleeping pad and dried my cycling clothes.

By 18:30 all tucked up warm & cosy.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Nov 2019)

Day 73 Sunday, November 24 Colbert Ferry Park to Tishomingo State Park 43km

Ok, so this wasn't the longest day in touring history, but it ranks up there among the best!

I'm fairly sure the weather imposed rain day followed by a trying day in cold, damp weather played their parts, but it was just a spectacular day. The thing is, I don't think the pictures will do the day justice - you just had to be there!

_The hour is early
The whole world is quiet
A beautiful morning's about to ignite
I'm ready for danger
I'm ready for fire
I'm ready for something to lift me up higher_
*Rodney Crowell - Still learning how to fly.*

If ever a song described a morning this is the one. It was glorious on the banks of the Tennessee river - bright sun, blue skies (although it was darn cold!).





I got up and started to get ready for my day. I put the kettle on for coffee and got my sleeping gear out to dry off in the sun. I moved the tent into some sun to dry it off (the rain started again during the night). Then I had breakfast and leisurely broke camp.

There was no-one around the whole time. As I was leaving a pick-up arrived, an older gentlemen walking his dog. Unusually for this part of the world he didn't return my greeting. I hit the road.





I didn't have too far to go. I was heading for a State Park so I was already looking forward to a shower! 

I started off sans music, just to enjoy the silence. Although it wasn't really silent - there was a wind whipping against me.

Then I plugged in the iPod and away I went.





I was listening to all my boys - the aforementioned Rodney Crowell, Larry McMurtry, Ryan Bingham, Jason Isbell, John Prime, Lyle Lovett and loads more. After years of listening to songs written about places, I was riding through these places! And more to come!

I was humming along, then singing along, then roaring along. I wasn't bothering anyone and nobody was bothering me!






There were lots of little bridges today, over roads or tracks and over creeks. I think I stopped at almost all of them. There's a small shoulder, a place to lean the bike and a place to sit. They're wonderful places to sit and wait for the world to roll past. A wonderful advantage of travelling by bike - there's no place for cars to stop.

There was one, in particular, that stood head and shoulders above the rest. I have no idea why. I think it was that the landscape in front of me was opening out after the tunnel of trees previously. In any case, I sat there for quite a while, savouring and reminding myself just how damn lucky I was to be here doing this.






Before we'd ever had a chance to get properly acquainted I left Alabama and entered Mississippi. There's one for the record books - I rode across Alabama in a day!!






It wasn't all plain sailing - the wind was cool and tossed me around on descents above 30kmh. The climbing & descending of previous days were back again. It was cold too, barely into double digits. Sitting in the sun was warm, but moving in the wind was chilling.





It's a wonder I got any charging done I was stopping so often. It was great to have a short day, great weather and the confidence that I'd be pitching my tent in daylight.

I finally turned off the Trace and followed a delightful road through the woods to the campground. The ranger was helpful and friendly and I was soon on my way another couple of miles to pitch beside a lake. I've sprung for a site with an electrical connection since the last few days have been power heavy. $23. Go Mississippi!





I set my tent up - it's on concrete, although I've positioned the tent in such a way that I could use two pegs in a crack in the concrete. I'm on the shady side of the lake, but the morning should be spectacular!





Then I had a shave and a long, hot, rejuvenating shower! There's a dryer, so I washed my clothes too and had them toasty warm and dry an hour later!

There's no wifi here and I was told no cellphone coverage. Turns out TMobile has a signal, so I was able to check in online and add a couple of posts to this thread. This is the first consistent signal since I got on the Trace.

I was chatting to a guy camping with his kids. He's a biker too, but prefers off-road so he doesn't have to deal with traffic. 





After dark I cooked (heated up, actually) some chilli for dinner. While cooking I happened to look up and the sky was amazing! The stars look so close! The cold night air is so pure they are dazzling! I was planning on eating inside the tent, but the view was just so special I had to sit outside and soak it all up.

I got cold, but it was worth it!

Now I'm tucked up in my sleeping bag, thawing out. When I'm done with this I'll make a visit to the bathrooms, do some jumping jacks and turn in for the night, proper.

All going well I'll be hitting Tupelo tomorrow - the birthplace of Elvis! The forecast is cloudy, but dry. More rain is forecast after that. This week is Thanksgiving over here - Thursday. Looking a bit further down the road, the NTP at Jackson gets quite busy. I may try to do that stretch on Thursday to miss the traffic. I'll have a look in the morning and see what works best.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Nov 2019)

Day 74, Monday, November 25 Tishomingo State Park to Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center 70km

Disaster! When I stopped for my first snack break my packet of trail mix was open and as I pulled it out of my bar bag all the trail mix fell into the barbag!

When that's the worst part of my day, it's a sign that it was a pretty good day!

I was right - this morning was another spectacular morning over water! The sun wasn't shining on me, but it was making a good job of burning off the mist from the lake.





It was cold, but it was heavenly. I was up with an early morning enthusiasm that is a little alien to me and set about making coffee & porridge. This was an extra coffee morning, just walking, sipping and savouring. 





Mississippi! Feckin' Mississippi! What in God's name was I doing in Mississippi?? And how in all that's holy did I get here on a bike??

You might laugh, but this morning (and throughout the day) was the point where the conceptual met the reality! 

Maybe because Nashville was the preliminary destination, I had friends there, safety, security was there. It was my focus.

But now? Now I'm out in the big bad world! And I'm in feckin' Mississippi! I knew I'd be in Mississippi one way or another, but today, the reality hit me! 

Chatting to a friend on WhatsApp I told him I'd rarely felt more alive! 

My musing done I headed off, stopping to tell the girl in the office that the spigot/tap at my spot was leaking and to compliment them in their shower design. Two sections, one for dressing/undressing and one for the actual shower. Their design masterpiece? The shower was lower than the dressing area meaning no water could get at shoes, socks or anything on the ground! 

Then it was a little wander through the woods to get back on the Trace - next stop Tupelo!





I hope I'm not tempting fate but I could feel a bit of oomph coming back. The climbs and descents were still ever present, but I was handling them ok. The wind was still nasty, though, especially on descents and worse in open country.















If you're getting bored of the road pictures I apologise, but in my defence, there really aren't too many alternative shots. 










I have to say I'm loving the riding. The traffic was a little heavier today, but still not a problem at all, the road surface is great and I'm captivated by the colours of the trees as well as what's around the next bend. I could see some people getting bored - not me!

There were fewer bridges today to stop, so that helped my focus a bit. I wanted to get to the bike campground at the official NTP offices on the edge of Tupelo, then pop into town to a supermarket to stock up.

I was going at a nice steady pace, then an hour from Tupelo I pulled in for a lunch of Jerky and peanut butter wraps. Sitting in the sun, on a bridge, it was delicious.






When I did arrive at the office, the campground was over the road and down a trail. With the kind lady's permission I dropped my gear outside her door and sped off to do my shopping.

Well! Talk about culture shock!! 2 km on normal city roads, heavy traffic, no shoulder. Hell!! I got to Aldi and went inside, barbag in hand. They don't do baskets here, only massive trolleys (outside, a quarter needed) so I loaded up my arms and hit the cash register. Of course the guy in front of me was difficult so my arms were killing me. 

When it was my turn, the cashier was all chat (I was wearing my helmet) and the woman behind became involved too! In Aldi!! Nobody ever talks in an Aldi! 

Then it was back into the madness, back to the center to pick up my gear, then across the road and down a trail in the woods. Not sure how long it's been since someone was here - there's a tree blocking the path - but I think I've landed on my feet. No water (i filled up at the center) a portapotty (still uninvestigated) and a pavilion all to myself with a picnic table. The sunset through the trees went from pale orange to deep red. Fantastic!





I can hear some animals moving about and unfortunately I'm close to the city so there's quite a bit of traffic noise. 

I'd like to visit Elvis's birthplace, but frankly, the traffic this evening has put a big question mark over that. I'll see if I can figure out a safe route. I also have to think about my plan to get through Jackson on Thursday. A signpost tells me that's 170 miles away. That's three 100km days in a row. Hmmm….maybe not.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Nov 2019)

Day 75, Tuesday, November 26, Natchez Trace Parkway Visitor Center to Tombigbee State Park 25km

Ah, I woke up this morning and I just wasn't feeling it.

I'd slept poorly, first of all finding it difficult to fall asleep, then waking up regularly. I think it was because I was watching Netflix on my tablet again. They say it's not a good idea to watch a screen before sleep.

(I was watching Sunderland til I die. I thought it was gripping and really drew me in. Many years ago a good friend of mine & flatmate picked two recently promoted teams so we'd have an excuse to go to the pub regularly - his girlfriend was moving in and we were afraid we'd lose our quality time together! I chose Sunderland so have kept an interested eye on them since.)

Given that I was camped under a roof and with tall trees around I had set my phone to wake me rather than the sun. Ha! That worked well!





When I did finally drag myself up I made some coffee and used the portapotty - surprisingly clean and comfortable - and with toilet paper too!

The next campsite was about 55km down the road so I thought I'd hit the Elvis birthplace and head for that. But first, back to the NTP center for some water and to let them know about the fallen tree.





The lady behind the desk was very lively, asking all kinds of questions about my trip.
She'd had an enquiry from someone asking about powerpoints for an e-bike at the different stops. I was able to tell her where I had found them. (They've disappeared the further south I've gone).
That led to a discussion about e-bikes. She thought it was cheating. I think if they give people the confidence to get out and about then they're ok.
She loved the idea of travelling on a cargo ship so I had to tell her all about that too.

When I eventually went to set off I was hailed by a South African couple who wanted to video my bike. The lady sure liked to talk! Non-stop on every topic under the sun! He was talking too, just not as much, so I was trying to hold two conversations simultaneously. Tiring work!

Finally, I was on the road again. Cycle.travel had given me a safe route to Elvis's birthplace, avoiding much of Tupelo, so all in all, it was a pleasant ride.

I stopped for breakfast at an independent coffee place and used their WiFi to update this thread.

Time was getting away from me and I was tempted to skip the touristy stuff and just head south. The sky was ominous and rain was expected at any minute. But how many times am I going to be in Tupelo?

Heading through the suburbs of Tupelo one thing was very clear - there are a lot of churches! I mean A LOT! There were at least two junctions that three of the four buildings on the corners were churches. And big ones too! Often with all kinds of ancillary buildings attached.

For years, Mississippi has been ranked last of all the States on every important index (I believe) - income, education etc. Oftentimes churches step up when government fails. I believe things are improving slowly (or maybe other states are just doing worse).

I arrived at Elvis's Birthplace, expecting little, but was charmed by the whole experience. You can visit parts for free, or pay to see up to three exhibits - a museum, his home in Tupelo and his church ( the one he attended as a boy - not the Church of Elvis!). It is the actual church building - moved to the site!

At first I just wandered around outside but was drawn in and purchased tickets to visit the museum and his home.

The first thing in the museum I learned was that Elvis was a twin. His brother was stillborn. There was a well presented video on his early life in Tupelo (he left at 13 with his parents to Memphis).Times really were hard then, especially in the South. 

There was ancestry information and a large display of memorabilia collected by a family friend. What I found most moving were items donated by fans, often with a letter accompanying them. One was of a battered toy truck that Elvis had given a school friend at about 6 years old. The letter was simple, but powerful.
Outside, there are several seats with plaques from donors.





Then I visited his actual two room house. It's the house built by his father, no running water or electricity, it still has the stove his mother cooked on but the furniture and fixtures are all donated, but era appropriate.





The house was interesting, but the elderly lady acting as ticket inspector and immobile guide was simply a wonder! Full of Southern charm and wit she was a pleasure to talk to. Her family were friends of the Presley's and she knew Elvis. Just chatting to her was worth the admission price alone. She travels the one hundred miles to Memphis several times a year to visit Graceland to make sure she's up to date with any new developments! The man died in 1977 what new developments could there possibly be??
She happily admitted to speeding on the way there too! As well as going motorbiking with her son - she must be in her eighties at least!
She told me to be careful on my bike. A previous visitor, a female cyclist had been killed the same day she visited. I told her that if she'd jinxed me I'd come back as a ghost and sit beside her every day as revenge!

I was very surprised at how tasteful and respectful the whole experience was. There was certainly an air of pride of a local boy done good, but this was no blatant attempt to cash in, at least until the gift shop where you could buy literally anything with Elvis on it. Steering wheel cover anyone?

In the shop there are two cutouts of Elvis for photos. A man was taking a photo of his two daughters do I offered to take one of the three of them. Offer gratefully accepted, then he fecked off without reciprocating! I was bemused, even though that's the very reason Hobbes travels with me, until an older man offered to take my photo with Elvis. When I thanked him and explained that I had a tiger he was bewildered!





Outside again, a couple had seen my bike and were all questions. We had a long chat - they had just come from Memphis and were on their way to Nashville. There I was in Tupelo, Mississippi giving hints on where to visit in Nashville, Tennessee - it's a crazy old world!

I've had more interesting conversations today since I don't know when. There was no way in Hell I was going to make it 60 odd Kms down the road to a campsite, so I headed for a nearby State Park, about 15 Kms away, stopping to buy some food as well.

Cycle.travel had me on quiet roads through a poor area, then a wealthy one, then poor again. And brutally hilly too! One dog chase to remind me of old times.
There were constant drops of rain, without it actually raining, so I was glad to land in the park before the skies burst.
The lady checking me in was great. One look at my foreign ID and she decided it was too much work! She asked me if it was my pickup outside and I pointed to the bike helmet on my head and teased her about having a bad day. Then she was all questions about my trip. When two colleagues came in she told them all about it too.

The bad news is that the rain expected today is now coming tonight, along with some hefty winds! They told me there'd be no issues if I slept in the bathhouse which worried me a little!

I got the tent set up, cooked dinner (proper food!) and just as I sat down to eat the heavens opened. I grabbed my food and ran for the bathouse to eat on top of a tumble drier.

After dinner it was into the tent, lightning flashing not too far away! Another longish night! Oh how I miss the warm, dry weather!

By tomorrow it should be clear so I hope to get at least as far as the next biker site. If I'm making good time I might go further. I just need to remember that Thursday is a big holiday so I'll need to have supplies and I don't want to be on the road late on Wednesday.

Yes indeed! How I miss the warm dry weather!
In the tent I listened to the Now Show podcast then rolled over for a deep sleep. The wind blowing didn't bother me, I'd the tent well pegged out and not under any branches. The rain pinging off the fly was like a soothing lullaby.

It was a warm night so my sleeping bag wasn't zipped up and my arms could roam free. At some stage some idea entered my head that the ground felt weird. When that thought became more persistent I finally woke up and realised that I appeared to be sleeping on a water bed!

It appears this ground can't soak any (more?) water and the water level was rising.

All of a sudden those words about using the bathhouse came back and bit me on the ass!

Inside the tent was remarkably dry so I packed my sleeping bag & clothes into a pannier & ran with that to shelter.
By now there was lightning to go with the rain.

I did a quick assessment and figured better to get everything out of the tent and under a roof.

Once that was done I was soaking, so I dried off, managed to make change from a late user of the laundry and get my clothes into a drier.

My sleeping mat, rainjacket and other assorted items are hanging in the bathroom waiting for the heating to kick in. I'm in fresh clothes so that's ok. I ate some peanut butter cups and wanted a can out of the vending machine to wash them down. My coins got stuck and my dollar bill was too wet! I stuck it in the drier for a minute and all is good!

If I look out now I can see the tent sitting in what is to all intents and purposes, a stream.
I didn't pitch tonight on concrete because I had no place to peg it out and strong winds were forecast. I placed the tent specifically to avoid any branches that may fall in the wind. I never thought for a second that I needed to worry about flooding! Also, two of the staff came by as I was setting up & we chatted. No mention of any risks.
Oh well, I wanted an adventure!

The morning after!





There's one dry spot on the floor that I'll settle down on when I think there's no chance of late visitors.
It's 23:30 - gonna be a long night!

Oh yes. I came across this too tonight - things get better and better!
Pack of feral hogs attack and kill woman outside Texas home https://jrnl.ie/4907638


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2019)

Day 76, wednesday, November 27, Tombigbee State Park to Witch Dance 55 km

How well can someone sleep on the floor of a toilet block? Surprisingly well, as it turns out!

I was awoken just after 6am by someone bursting in, but stayed warm & cosy for another half hour until it was brighter.

The first thing that struck me when I went outside was that the creek I was expecting my tent to be in was gone! Lots of big muddy puddles, though.

First job was to move the tent out of the swamp & onto some tarmac.
Second job was to mop out the inner floor with a micro fibre cloth.
Third step was to angle the tent for optimum drying.
Fourth step was coffee!

There was no wind and the sun wasn't penetrating the trees until it got higher. This was going to take a while!

I emptied out all my food bags to let them dry.
I checked every stitch of clothing for dampness.
I cleaned & oiled the chain on Roccado.
And I waited.

Given that my next campground was beside the road I had no idea what the conditions would be like so I was not leaving until all was dry.

Slowly everything started to come together. The tent was drying, the bags were getting packed. By 11:30 I was ready to rock & roll.

I set off initially going back the way I had arrived yesterday. Same route different vibe - dogs were out. One particularly nasty brute was very persistent. Not helping was a strong wobble from the trailer. I wanted to stop and sort it, but there was no place for a while. When I got the chance I pulled in, pumped up the wheel & set off again.





Easy, suburban riding on quiet roads until I hit the farmland. There was a lot of water everywhere! And now a wind from the south west. Cold! I was making a beeline to the NTP, passing through Verona.





This Verona is nowhere near as busy (or as pretty) as the original Verona. If it had a campground I doubt it's as attractive as the campground at Verona, high up a hill with great views of the city and tent pitches under vines - glorious!

However, it did have a mangy Labrador who followed me for about 2km to s busy junction. He was just friendly and seemed to want to join this little trip. Trying to get him to stop following me was impossible until a car positioned themselves between us and motioned me to go.

When I rejoined the NTP I promptly turned the wrong way, heading north rather than south! When I realised the cycling was too easy I checked my bearings and turned around into the wind.





Traffic was heavier now, not sure if it's Tupelo or the day before Thanksgiving. I saw a filling station and pulled in for some warm chicken.

Thereafter it was my usual NTP experience - rolling hills, lots of trees, more open farmland, regular stops at the little bridges. The sun now was shining and having a wonderful effect on the trees. It was really beautiful. 





I had a couple of impatient drivers but most were very respectful. Near the end one asswipe slowed down behind me due to an oncoming car but then went for it, his mirror missing me by inches. I rode off the road in shock.

Litter is prevalent along here which I find to be such a shame. Earlier, I'd passed a sign advising of a $50 fine for littering. When I started in Virginia it was $2000, then moved up to $3000! C'mon Mississippi!





This stretch has less bathrooms at points compared to Tennessee. A small layby and an info sign is all you get. The road is definitely poorer too. There have been a few nasty sunken sections and potholes. Possibly it's due to the soft ground - it does look very wet 





At one of these stops, the Black Belt, it explains how this area was under the sea "ages ago". I couldn't help but think that this vague, unscientific measurement was used not to cause offence to those believing the earth is less than 6000 years old.





I got to my camping spot well within daylight, set up the tent and was gathering wood to cook over (there's a couple of grills I can use) when I was approached by a fellow cycle tourist (although he was in a car today). We had a good old chat until darkness fell. When he headed off, I skipped the fire, lit the trangia and cooked dinner - pasta with a homemade tomato sauce with tuna. I also hardboiled 3 eggs for breakfast or lunch tomorrow 





My campspot is in an area beside the road that has bathrooms. I reckon I'm about 200 meters from the road. Earlier there were some other folks on the other side of the bushes listening to dire music on a radio. They're gone now! 

The sky is crystal clear and the stars are out, although the trees are in the way of an impressive scene.

Tomorrow is Thanksgiving so I'm hoping the traffic will disappear. There's a campground about 60 km down the road and the next bike one is about 120km. If it's a nice day, not too windy, I may go for the far one. 

Just before I turned in for the night I took advantage of the toilet block to wash my dinner dishes & to change into my night clothes - it's warm in there!
I took the time to read the info board on this place - Witch Dance. Apparently, folklore has it that witches gathered here….to dance! Lovely thing to read just before I turn in! Now strange noises in the night might be critters after my food….or harridans on broomsticks!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2019)

Day 77, Thursday, November 28, Witch Dance to Jeff Busby Campground 65 km





Yesterday, I wrote that I might make a 120km run for the next bike campground. Well, I slept on it and decided that would be foolish!

When I woke up the sun was already up, although it was still cold. Mind you, I'd had a great sleep.





I made a leisurely breakfast of oranges, coffee & porridge and checked my dynamo charger. It didn't give any charge yesterday, although the light was working. It could be the unit itself, the connection at the hub, a dodgy cable or a dodgy mini usb port. In the end it was none of these things because it worked fine today! User error, most likely!

I was just ready to leave when a car pulled up full of young people (I hate writing that - makes me sound old!!). I reckon college kids. The boys were loud shouting about beer so I decided to wait until they left. With great public bathrooms one of them still peed in a bush.

They left and I hit the road. It was neither busy nor quiet. Cars seemed to arrive in packs. Perhaps travelling together for the holiday or perhaps the fast drivers all got stuck behind slower drivers.





It appears this blog is getting read in Redneck country because a pickup passed me rather close with a dog barking out the window! One minute the sound of a pickup, the next a hunting dog in my left ear! That shook me alright. I'm finding it hard to think that it wasn't deliberate. The pass was too close and the window too far down to be comfortable at that speed. I get that some people don't like cyclists. Hell, I don't even like some cyclists. I just don't get these kinds of actions.

In any case I was going fairly well. The sky was blue, the sun shining making every tree and bush shimmer. There seemed to be more flat and downhill sections, although gizmo says otherwise. The wind could still be nasty, though and was nippy. I got to thinking that at some point I'm going to be turning into that wind!





About noon the clouds took over the sky and I definitely missed its warmth.

About half way through the day I stopped on a bridge for lunch - boiled egg & jerky wraps. Delicious! Then onwards again. 

The stopping points here are much less developed than back further. Here it's a small layby and a sign. No picnic table, no bathrooms. Zilch.
There were a lot of creeks today, running under the road and weaving through the forest on either side. There was something really mysterious about some of them. One, in particular, really gave me an urge to get a canoe and go exploring.










The landscape today was generally forest, some swampy forest and open, agricultural land. I'm still not bored, which I think is interesting. I like the idea of cycling along a similar (albeit much easier!) path to people from long ago. It gives a route a bit of depth, character and soul, I think.





I passed mile marker 223 and kept an eye out for 222 because that would be the half-way point. When I saw mile marker 208 I realised I'd been so engrossed in looking into the forests on both sides I'd completely missed it. I'll take that as a good sign!

It's great when you are under no pressure. The only teensy concern was that since it's Thanksgiving and this campground is first come first served that I may have an issue getting a pitch. In any case I'd be there well before the end of daylight so I was free to stop whenever and wherever I like.

After about 2pm the traffic really dropped off. Everyone sitting down for dinner, I suppose. That was the real reason for not going for a long day today. The chances of me being caught in the dark were too high and I figured the chances of meeting a drunk driver today were high too. Combine those factors and I'm perfectly happy to have a shorter day.





At the turnoff for the campground there's a bathroom so I stopped for a pee and a chat. I may have been a little brief, but in fairness, stopping a man on his way to the bathroom is a risky business! In any case, I was officially welcomed to Mississippi.

Then onto the campground proper. No issues with space - I have my choice of pitches. There's a toilet block that is also my source of water. I'm low on meths for my stove so will have to cook sparingly to make sure I have my coffee tomorrow!





Tomorrow is another 55/60 km day to the next bike campground. It's close to a small town so I hope to restock and refuel as well.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Dec 2019)

Day 78, Friday, November 29, Jeff Busby Campground to Kosciusko Information Center 56km

I was up at the crack of dawn, or at least a little after - 6:30 am to be precise. I'd slept well, the morning was fresh, but not too cold and I was the only one stirring in the campground.

I wanted to make my destination early to give time to resupply, but as tends to be common for my mornings, breakfast was "leisurely". This was the first morning in a while that it was warm enough to sit and eat.

I finally got on the road and the warmth disappeared. Once I was moving the cold air had a chilling effect. There was no sun either, to warm me up.





Until the first hill, that is! After that I was warm and toasty!

Traffic was light and all seemed to be heading in the opposite direction.

The scenery was a mix of forest, swampy forest and some more open farmland. As is the case here, the open land was windy!





I've really been enjoying the riding the past few days. Certainly the shorter distances help remove the stress of racing the sun to my destination. The regular bridges give me a comfortable place to stop as often as I like. But the main attraction is following a weaving road through some glorious country! 





I stopped at an info board at a place called French Camp and was followed in by a car 

It was an octogenarian intrigued by my Extra wheel trailer. I was happy to chat away with him and he told me he'd built his own trailer for his bike back when he was about 10. 

Then he asked me if I was carrying a gun, all the while scrabbling around under his seat and door pocket looking for his.

Apparently, I needed to have a gun in this country. From the way he was talking, it was almost a legal requirement. He told me how he'd pulled out his gun to show some other "European cyclists" and they'd reacted badly, thinking he might shoot them.

All the while, still hunting for his gun.

When I tried to explain that us Europeans weren't used to seeing guns in everyday life so it could be quite a shock he dismissed me out of hand.

Muttering that his gun must be in his pick up he elaborated on why I needed to carry a gun;

"They made a mistake when they started this country. They let all those f*****g African Americans (not the actual term used) in. Now they all have guns so we need 'em too".

Now, I don't consider myself a bleeding hearted snowflake but I was stunned at the casual way the "n" word was thrown out to a stranger. I was also more than confused that the people he spoke of were described as being "let in". That kind of flies in the face of some things I thought I knew.

Unsure of exactly how to handle this and now a little nervous as he was searching for his gun again, I ventured the idea that they were hardly here of their own free will?

Oh dear!

"Let me tell you something. If the slave owners treated 'em as bad as was let on, they'd have risen up & killed every last one". 

Now I really wanted out of the conversation, but he was back to guns and the need for me to have one. 

When I told him that I was pretty sure it was illegal for me to have a gun, I was informed not in Mississippi! 

I made the mistake of trying to lighten the mood with a joke saying if I had a gun I'd probably only shoot myself.

That did not go down well, launching a stirring invective against men these days not being men. 

I really wanted to get out of there, yet at the same time I was wondering what else would be forthcoming. It's not often you meet someone who speaks so candidly and with such apparent conviction.

Cyclists were next - as I stood astride a bike. Apparently, we've too many rights and have lost our fear of cars! To emphasise his point he regaled me with the tale of his attempt to overtake a cyclist at (only) 50mph on a blind bend. When the inevitable happened and a car appeared he blasted his horn, but the damn cyclist did not pull off the road. Instead, my new friend had to brake really hard.

When he asked where I was heading I lied and said my goodbyes. He was still looking for his damn gun!

The whole incident left me quite shaken. The transformation from interested old soul to someone quite sinister was sudden and totally unexpected. I was shocked at his use of the n word - to a stranger - and the casual way he used it like the last 60 odd years never occurred. 

When he spoke of the cyclists I started to get very uneasy. I felt that he may be about to work himself up into a fit of righteous indignation and then take it out on the nearest cyclist - me!

The sun came out to shine and I looked up to see a bright blue sky, but that didn't help much. All of a sudden every car seemed a bit more sinister. It really wasn't a nice way to be riding. 

After a bit of a climb to work out some frustration and a pleasant descent I was starting to feel a bit better. Two cars were approaching me when suddenly the second car pulled into my lane in an overtaking move. I had no choice but to pull off the road and down a (thankfully) gentle slope. The car stayed in my lane but never overtook the first car. Did they really not see me or was it just another bike hater?

Now I was really not in a good mood. I came to another info board so pulled in and parked the bike. It was the start of a nature trail through a swamp so I took a wander then ate an orange and some trail mix. Then back on the road.










As I got close to Kosciusko I started to feel a little better. It was warm, I had hours of daylight and a big Walmart on my way to the campground. 





Sometime yesterday the route I had plotted on cycle.travel diverged away from the NTP. It's the second place it has done so. I noticed it at the planning stage but left it as it was so I'd have a handy alternative if the NTP was not as I was expecting. At some stage today I had the unusual opportunity to cycle over this alternative route! Two lane highway, rumble strip, no shoulder - I was happy where I was! 

The road not taken





I pulled into the Walmart and was a bit uneasy about leaving the bike and gear outside. Inside, I was a man on a mission grabbing what I needed. I'd throw my eye outside every now and then, the bike was fine.

I made it to the Information Centre where cyclists can camp. It's close to the road, but a nice setup. The toilets are left open for me! 





Last night I had a terrible craving for cheese, so once the tent was set up, I melted some cheddar and ate that with the best bread I could find in Walmart. The bread's crap - dry and flakey, but the melted cheese is delicious! OK, it'll take an hour to clean the pot, but who cares? 😀

The host at the centre is a volunteer, a very nice, welcoming man. He's given me his number in case I need anything tonight. We had a nice chat about my trip and my gear. He declined my offerings of fondue, coffee or peanut butter cups. 

Tomorrow I'll be heading for Jackson. The traffic on the Trace at Jackson can be murderous. 25% of car wrecks on the whole NTP occur in one short section I'm due to be cycling! Lovely!

Since the next campground is the far side of Jackson I may be motelling it tomorrow night. I'm pretty sure I could do with a shower and my clothes could do with a rinse!

As I was relaxing at my picnic table another (lightly) loaded cyclist rolled in! I was very excited!! After all these kms in the US this is the first I have seen!! 

Emma is British, but working over here and has taken a few days to do the NTP. It was great to have a chat and compare experiences. She arrived when all the goodies I had bought in Walmart were strewn over the table - God knows what she thought of me! She's travelling lighter than me (who isn't??) and has been doing longer days. 

The weather tomorrow is turning stormy, so my plan is to be up early and knock off the 100km or so to Jackson.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Dec 2019)

Day 79, Saturday, November 30, Kosciusko Information Center to Ridgeland (Jackson suburb) 99km


I was up just after sunrise at about 6:30 am. Emma was already up and packing, ready to head off. She's working to a deadline so has two long days ahead of her. We compared notes on the weather, a storm was definitely heading in. 





I breakfasted & packed up & by my standards was on the road early enough. The first thing I noticed was the wind! It was strong! Coming from the south west it was going to be fighting me all day.

Truth be told, I was already feeling apprehensive about today. Jackson traffic is well flagged and reinforced by my host last night. The 100km odd felt far away. Too slow and I'd be riding into the storm. To help me along I plugged in my iPod for the first time in days as I left. Springsteen at Madison Square Garden - the gig where he plays "The River" (double) album in the middle of the gig! 





Setting off the sky was overcast and would stay that way for most of the day. Traffic was light and I was soon rolling along at a reasonable pace.

When the trees lined the road I had some shelter from the wind, but when the land opened up the wind was trying to bully me. The road seemed unusually flat which I was grateful for.





By 11 am I had covered 40km, by noon I was more than half way. If I could stay above 15 kmh I'd be arriving between 3 and 4 pm. I'd picked out a couple of motels close to the NTP but hadn't booked anything. 

The first indication that maybe the locals weren't treated so well



o

The pendulum swung from gun-toting racist yesterday to John, today.

Riding along, a covered pick up pulled in and the driver busied himself at the rear of the truck. I slowed down to time my passing with an oncoming car.

John flagged me down and quickly eased my paranoia. Did I need anything? Food? Water? He thought my "rig" was cool! He'd cycled himself from Florida to Washington State, a life changing 8 months. His excitement and enthusiasm was infectious! He warned me of the incoming storm and conscious I was under pressure pumped my hand several times, checked once more I had everything I needed and drove off leaving me recharged.

On I went, stopping to snack and drink every hour or so. I was happy to see that I was making good time. The sun even came out for a little while, but mainly it was behind clouds. When it did shine the fast moving clouds made it seem like it was a searchlight panning down or across the road.





About 25km from the end I was passing a large reservoir and had a decent data signal so I booked a motel. By the reservoir the wind was brutal so immediately my speed slowed. Then it started to rain so I pulled in to don my rain gear. It looked like the last bit was going to be the hard bit!





The rain never really got going and petered out. I hopped off the NTP proper and onto a mixed use trail. The traffic wasn't particularly busy, but the cars were passing closer than before so this option made sense to me.





The trail was surprisingly tough, lots of short steep climbs.

Then I had to leave the trail and onto regular roads for the last couple of kms to the motel. Waiting at traffic lights to turn left onto a 4 lane highway a guy from the pickup behind me ran up to me and thrust a red bike light into my hand and ran back to his truck! I've a light on the trailer and one on the rack of the bike - both on! I called out to him asking why he did this. He roared something back about more lights weren't a problem!

Such kindness!

I was only on the main road for about 300 meters, then back to smaller ones. 

I pulled into the motel, checked in and hit the room. Wifi took a while to get organised. I checked in with some folks at home, did my laundry, had a shower and tried to order a pizza. When that failed, I went out for food. There were a few options within walking distance, but the lack of footpaths, a 4 lane highway to cross and foul weather left me choosing the closest - Wendy's. Surprisingly good burgers!

Lightning is flashing all around, winds are expected to gust up to 60 mph! Glad I'm not in the tent tonight!

As Birthdays go, it certainly wasn't the worst! 😀


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Dec 2019)

Day 80, Sunday, December 01, Ridgeland (Jackson suburb) to Rocky Springs Campground 83km

I suppose if you wanted to take lessons from bike touring and apply them to life, one of the lessons would be that sun follows the rain - it certainly did in style today!






The TV was full of weather warnings last night but this morning was bright and sunny, the sky almost completely blue except for a few stretches of thin, cottony cloud. Cool though. Even so, I donned my shorts for the first time since Nashville.

I hadn't slept great, getting up a couple of times to rotate laundry in front of the ancient air-conditioning unit. There's no breakfast here so I figured I'd grab something on the go.

Frankly, the motel was a dive. I'd picked it because it was the same brand as my stay in Eutaw - and that place was fantastic! I guess the franchising standards are a little loose!

I packed up and rolled out reversing my route from yesterday to get back to the NTP. Once I got there I had two options; Get straight on the NTP or take the mainly parallel mixed use path. I watched the road for a few minutes, saw the speeding traffic and opted for the path. I'd also pass a water point (I'd prefer that to the motel water) and there was more chance of grabbing a bite as well.





This MUP proudly boasts suitable for wheelchairs. Yeah, right! There were times it was so dug up and rough I was considering staying and setting up a wheel unbuckling service! On top of that, often literally, was the detritus from last night's storm - lots of wet leaves.






It was slow going. When i saw a filling station I grabbed a coffee& muffin. When I started again the first thing that hit me was the wind! Strong! 

I came to the water station and slowly filled my bottles - low pressure. 

I'd passed a major intersection and now the NTP was quiet! Time to get back on it! Easier said than done. Sometimes it was as close as 10 meters away, but with a ditch, trees or bushes in the way, or all three! Sometimes it was above me, sometimes below. None of the local roads seemed to join it. They either went over it or under it. Eventually, I saw a kind of gap, cleared out the dead branches and pushed through. I was back on the Parkway!










Oh, but that wind!! Much stronger than yesterday! It was like someone was messing with my head - here's a lovely road, here's a beautiful, blue sky and a bright, shining sun. Oh by the way, here's the feckin' wind!!!

It was slow going. I'd an "easy" 70 odd Kms to go to the campground. I was rapidly revising the easiness.

In fairness, though, there was no traffic. This part is closed due to road subsidence. I'm assuming it's Ok to bike on it. In any case, it's Sunday so no workmen to deal with.





The first 25km were hard fought for. I was drinking like a fish! I dislike headwinds intensely! A hill has an end. I may never make it, but I take reassurance from that and can motivate myself to meet it.

But wind? That can go on and on and on! Some other power is messing with my mind!

In fairness, the countryside was spectacular in the sun. The few remaining golden leaves on the trees positively glowed as if proud of their longevity. I think that may have angered the wind because several times I was caught in a blizzard of falling leaves.






On one stretch there were even a couple of swirling raves of leaves. It seemed like tiny tornadoes were whipping them up and spinning them around. 





I stopped often to rest up & take a break from the wind. As the day wound on the wind started to swirl, changing direction - but of course, never a tailwind.

With about 25 km to go I pulled in and ate an orange, trail mix and jerky. 5 Kms further I was stopping for peanut butter wraps! 

With about 5 km to go a lady cyclist came up behind as I was resting on a bridge. She's a bit of a bike tourer too. As it turns out she's camping out at my destination too. 

She stumped me though, with a question - How far to Argentina? I have not got a clue!! I suppose that sounds totally irrational and probably downright dumb! To my way of thinking, a long trip like this shouldn't be reduced to distance, or especially distance divided by speed, it should be taken section by section. In the very early stages of looking at the route it became apparent to me that Mother Nature in the form climate, seasons and weather was going to be the main influence. Trying to race her, to beat her to maintain a route or momentum would be a fools errand. 

On top of that situations in countries can change quickly too requiring detours of all sizes.

Simply put, any route, and therefore, distance, planned sitting at home would not survive the practicalities on the ground.

I set off again and made the campground about 4:30pm. It was still bright! This is a bit of a plus. On the first night out if Nashville it was pitch dark by 4:30!

I got the tent pitched & changed into my evening clothes. Even though Gizmo was showing temps around 20C for most of the day it never felt that warm. The night will be cold.






There's a faint discolouration to the water in the washrooms so I'm boiling my water for tea & cooking, preserving the last liter of "good" water I have.

I'm off now to make dinner, then turn in for the night. There isn't a hint of a phone signal here.

Tomorrow will most likely be the last day of the Natchez Trace Parkway. 

Then I'll be joining the Mississippi River Trail. Back onto regular roads and no more of these Forestry Service campgrounds. These have been very good. Pitches with fire pits & picnic tables, washrooms (no showers) most with outdoor water turned off (winter) but water from the taps in the washrooms.There have been no electrical sockets (that I can find) since Tennessee. Electric hand dryers are a great way of removing dampness from clothes! Someone comes by in the morning to clean the washrooms and empty trash. 

They operate on a first come first served basis and are free. I'm sure in high season (Spring & Fall) they are quite busy, but at this time of the year almost empty.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Dec 2019)

Day 81 , Monday, December 02, Rocky Springs Campground to Coles Creek (stealth camp) 63 km

I woke up well after sunrise, well rested. It had been a cold night and the morning was still cold. I took my day clothes to the washroom and changed in there - it was a bit more comfortable.





I put my coffee on, ate an orange and was busy making my porridge when a ranger came along to clean the bathrooms. I took advantage to ask him about the water. He wasn't aware of any problems but advised against drinking it. I told him I was boiling it for safety's sake. Since there were also washrooms at the entrance I asked if it was the same water source. He said he'd check the water there and report back to me.

I had my breakfast and assessed the water issue. I had a little under a liter of "good" water. The next place for water was a town about 25 km down the road. I should be able to manage.

I packed up and the ranger returned, this time driving a big leaf blower, clearing the road. The water in the other washrooms was the same, but he handed me a half liter of water for the journey! 

I hit the road and the first 15km or so were fabulous! The sun was shining, the road was incredibly quiet and I was blanketed on both sides by dense trees. Then the landscape opened up and the wind took a more active role! 





I slowed right down! But there was the town to aim for and I was starting to think of some warm food. The temperature wasn't rising above 11C and like yesterday, it felt cooler than that. 





Port Gibson is where I was heading. I passed two filling stations on the way into town but continued on. I was hoping for a diner or even a fast food joint. Food & water at the same time. No joy. I found a supermarket and bought some water. Then out of town on a highway to rejoin the Trace. That wasn't much fun! Near the Trace was another Filling Station so I pulled in & had a sandwich. 





Then it was back on to the thankfully, quiet Trace.

Port Gibson was an interesting little town, obviously way past its prime. Some lovely old houses were barely above ruin status, yet seemed to be occupied. "Too pretty to burn" was on the sign that I saw on the way out. A reference to the civil war, I'm sure.

One older chap talked to me outside the supermarket asking if I'd seen deer. "I have", I told him "and turkeys too!". Then he told me I should be seeing hogs too. Not sure how to feel about that.





Back on the road progress was steady, if not speedy. Traffic was very light and the hills had returned. As a campervan was overtaking me it slowed down to my pace, the passenger window dropped down and I found myself having a chat with the lady driver! She wanted to make sure I had everything I needed! Mississippi sure is full of surprises! 





My target for the evening was the Natchez State Park. It's a bit off the route, but the only other alternative was on the other side of the Mississippi. I didn't want to fly past Natchez and certainly didn't fancy crossing a bridge near rush hour.





As it happened, I came across a picnic area with washrooms along the route. Not an official bike camp spot, but the same as the previous ones. I hummed and hawed, then remembered the first night when I had a similar dilemma. "Feck that", says I, "I'm staying here".

So I did.

I got the tent set up, my sleeping pad in the sun to freshen up, made some tea and sat in the sun writing this and trying to post an update as well - that failed. My solar panel was charging my phone as I wrote.





It's going to be another cold night so I'll be in bed early. Tomorrow will probably be a low mileage day. I might do an investigation of Natchez and see if I can find some wifi to do some updates.












If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Dec 2019)

Day 82 , Tuesday, December 03, Coles Creek (stealth camp) to & around Natchez 40ish km

It was darn cold this morning!! A dusting of frost covered everything. I was slow to get up,waiting for the sun to rise. When I did, it was still cold, ice crystals in my water bottle.





I breakfasted slowly, in no rush and wanting to let the condensation evaporate off the tent.

There was no huge mileage target today. The plan was to explore Natchez a little, cross the river and set up in a campground.

I packed up & set off. It was cold! Bright blue sky, brilliant sun, but very nippy, especially, again, in the wind.















It was a slow and steady run down to Natchez. Traffic was very light. 

Near the end of the Trace I finally remembered the mileposts!





The end, like the begining, was unspectacular! There was no chorus of cheerleaders to greet me, just a slip road onto a highway. 

The road into Natchez itself was quiet, with lots of sharp ascents and descents. On the crest of one hill I caught a glimpse of blue, different from the sky. It was the Mississippi! There's something romantic in my head about creating a hill and seeing a landmark in front of me. 






I rolled through the town trying to make sense of the one way system, right up to the river.

In another of those concept meets reality moments, the reality just blew me away!! Here I was, standing, looking at the Mississippi! Reality is so much more intense than the concept! 





Totally excited and awed by my location I took a little wander before stopping for a bite to eat.





Natchez was a boomtown before the civil war, recovered somewhat afterwards, but lost its status when the steamboats were replaced by trains. It still has lots of old architecture. It is a picture of Southern, Old World Charm, albeit with a dark history.

On a whim, I took out my phone & checked Booking.com. For $6 dollars more than I paid for the dive motel in Jackson I had a suite in an old plantation! I jumped at it!! This was a little town worth wandering around.

Wandering down to Natchez under the Hill, the old slave trading area (Boomtown, remember?) I met Rye and his father. Rye's 18 and off for a jaunt on his bike. He started in New Hampshire and has made it this far. His Dad was joining him down here for a few days.

He's a lucky guy to be doing this at his age, and fair play to his father too!

I took the scenic route to the plantation, seeing the less prosperous side of the town.

But the Plantation? Wow! After falling to rack & ruin it was restored slowly from the late 1970's. 

My room has a spa bath which got a whole lot of use! Dinner was the best fried chicken I've ever tasted!





I also borrowed some bleach and cleaned out my water bottles. I've had a slight touch of the runs the last day or so.

Tomorrow, it's back to a more basic way of life. I'll be crossing the Mississippi then following that for the day. Thereafter, I'll be turning west and heading for Austin. Accommodation options can be scarce at times. 

As a cycle route, I found the NTP to be some of the best cycling so far. Excellent roads, little traffic except for Jackson & Tupelo, and decent camping options, if sometimes far apart. Of course, that could change depending on the time of year. Spring & Fall are the peak season.

I found the scenery fantastic, although I could see some people becoming bored.

There is a lack of civilisation, though. 

Nashville is a great city to start or end and New Orleans is down the road. A very nice tour could be put together around the NTP.







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2019)

Day 83 ,Wednesday, December 04, Natchez to Three Rivers Primitive Camp Ground 73 km

Louisiana sure is different!!

Last night the hot tub both cleaned and revived me as well as doing a good job on my laundry!

It was a luxurious night in a four-poster, canopied bed. Breakfast this morning was as luxurious - ham and bacon, eggs, grits, yoghurt, muffin, coffee. I lingered, enjoying every morsel.





There was a tour included in the price, starting at 10 am. I was in two minds whether to do it or not. I enquired about the length, to be told it was about 45 minutes. Sold!

I leisurely did my packing and presented myself at 10 am. It was definitely interesting. The second owner was a rather famous figure as a business owner and as a military man. Quitman.

Some of the artefacts in the house were originals, others were from the era. Union troops had ransacked the house during the Civil War.

A guest asked about servant quarters and the guide, pointedly, I thought, replied about slave quarters. When she had a follow up question about servant quarters we could all turn the airco off such was the drop in temperature.

I very much enjoyed my taste of the Old South. 

I rode away thinking Natchez is an interesting little place - and I hadn't even visited the casino!











I made for the bridge, actually bridges - there are two, one for each direction - to cross the mighty Mississippi and was horrified at the lack of a shoulder. Traffic wasn't heavy, but it was fast moving and the wind was buffeting me. Thankfully, half way across the right lane was closed for roadworks so I could weave in there. On the way across I entered the seventh state of this bike trip. I've no picture of the sign because I was too busy trying to stay alive in Louisiana, but I did grab a picture of these - a common feature on bridges and a death trap for those with skinny tyres.





Once over the bridge I got off the highway onto some back roads then onto a rough track along the river. Thankfully, I got off that and onto a two lane road through the countryside.





Pretty much straight away I got my first dog chase. Relatively harmless, three yappy little dogs, but complicated by being overtaken by a big truck.

The wind was being kind - just as well because the land was so flat.

There is no doubt that I'm in a whole new world here. The landscape is completely different to what has come before. There's a big dyke or levee on my left side hiding the river and flat, fertile farmland to my right. The traffic was quite light and a decent shoulder allowed me to ride on the road and dip into the shoulder if a car came up behind.

The road engineers were messing with my head all day, going from a decent surface to a wonderfully smooth surface to a lunar landscape and back again! Also, some of the roads were incredibly straight and long! Fantastically long with water mirages caused by the sun on the surface. 





A big part of the route was through the Three Rivers Animal Sanctuary. Here, the road was particularly poor, but the scenery more than compensated with the road wandering through a swamp.





It was really great cycling! The views were so different from the past couple of weeks they were stunning. 

I was tipping along, making good time. I was heading for something if an unknown quantity - a primitive campground on Google Maps. I didn't fancy trying to find it in the dark.

Coming across another alligator was a shock to the system though! Cycling along, a swamp to my right I was in my own little world. The remains of a blown out truck tyre is not an unusual sight so it barely registered with me until I realised what it actually was! Then I saw the blood and realised it was already dead, but still in one piece. I paid a bit more attention to the road after that!!

With the exception of about 10km the road pretty much followed the levee. On top of the levee was a gravel track. I presume that can be biked too, but why would I with a quiet road pretty much all to myself?

I did climb up every now and then, not to see the Mississippi - that's still too far away - but the land in the floodplain of the river - normally forest or swamp.










Vidalia is the town on the Louisiana side opposite Natchez. From that point on there are no services or stores until I hit a town tomorrow. For that reason I filled one of my bladders with an extra 2 liters of water since I have no idea if there's water at the campground this evening.

Finding the campground was slightly tricky, but getting to it was really tricky - a very stoney gravel track. I eventually made it and set my tent in one of the most open spaces ever! 





I had to be careful to avoid the many anthills and as I was scouting a good spot I came across a dead snake. Lovely! I'm back in the wild! 

As I was setting up a couple came with a caravan, two pickups, an ATV and a menagerie of dogs. The dogs are friendly enough. He took them for a walk - him on the ATV - and called over to me to tell me if I needed anything they were just over there! People certainly are friendly!

My tummy's still not feeling great. I think I'm going to skip dinner and just sleep. Dumbass forgot to get more oatmeal so I'll see how I'm feeling in the morning for breakfast. 


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2019)

Day 84 ,Thursday, December 05, Three Rivers Primitive Camp Ground to Bunkie 90km

The advantage of camping in a wide open space is that daylight hits the tent far earlier than under trees. As a result I was up early and foregoing breakfast I headed out into the bright, new day.





I'd slept from about 6:30pm so couldn't complain of being tired, but the lack of breakfast was certainly a cause of some drag. My target was Simmesport for some food, some 30 odd Kms away. The wind wasn't helping too much either.





I first crossed a hydro-electric dam then several "control" structures on the old river. Traffic was light and other than the varying quality of the road all was good.





To get into Simmesport I had to cross another bridge. Again, not a pleasant experience. Once in the town I stopped for some food and got my water topped up. I had now left the Mississippi River Trail behind and was now officially on the Southern Tier route across America!

As if to emphasise that I met only my third touring cyclist as I was leaving town. She's Canadian, cycling west to east. We stopped and had a long chat comparing notes. I had little useful information to give her since she'll be following a different route to me, but I learned that the approach to Austin is complicated by roadworks. I may need to plot a different route.

We parted and I headed away, my destination for the day further than hers. What I do think is interesting, albeit from a very small sample size, of the three other cycle tourers I have met, all are solo and two are women! I think that's a great thing to see.

I was on secondary roads, often parallel to the main highway. Road quality was variable, from moderate to downright lunar! Then I crossed the main highway and took a secondary one, busier with a shoulder I was avoiding as much as possible.





For trucks, I took the simple approach of pulling off the road altogether. They pass very close and the wind they generate is very unsettling, especially with such a dodgy surface.






Here in Louisiana, there has been a marked increase in the number of cars that beep me. I thought that when they were coming from behind it was a friendly warning and when from an approaching car it was a friendly show of support. As the day progressed I refined my interpretation of the beeps. Let me see if I can get the nuances just right….."Hey, you on the bike, I'm coming up behind you and you better f*** off outta my way" is the closest I can come to.

The route ran through several little towns, each time it seemed like the traffic got heavier.

A lot of the houses have Christmas decorations outside - inflatable Santas, reindeer and the like. I'm riding past these in temperatures in the mid 20s C and the imagery is not computing. To add further to my confusion one guy was cutting his grass around his Christmas decorations. The (summer) smell of fresh cut grass and the winter decorations almost caused a headache in my poor addled brain!

I was heading for Bunkie, to the Fire Department. They host passing cyclists. I've been trying to call since yesterday evening but can't get a signal. I'm hoping it won't be too much of an issue if I just roll up.





The last stretch to Bunkie itself was the worst. Heavy traffic, little to no shoulder. I eventually made it and there was no one around. Doors were open, bags were in rooms, there was space where a fire truck should be. I waited, assuming they were on a call. 





After not too long two of the volunteers showed up and made me most welcome! I'll be sleeping inside, I had a great shower and got recommendations on where to eat. I went off for crawfish, a Southern delicacy. One of the guys offered to drop me off, then pick me up! I took my bike.

Dinner was great, but crawfish are little shellfish, something like prawns that need to be deheaded and the shell removed - a frustrating experience for the hungry cyclist!! 

Bread pudding is common down here so I treated myself and I can see why it is so popular! Delicious!

I got back to the station and was just getting to know everyone when a call came in and everyone ran out! An incident involving a train and a car. I was left alone.

Tomorrow, I'm hoping to camp at a local museum near Oberlin. I've managed to make contact using WarmShowers and a text message. Apparently it's a confusing place to get to, but at 100kms away I should have a reasonable chance of getting there before dark!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Dec 2019)

Day 85, Friday, December 06, Bunkie to Oberlin 120km

The crawfish didn't agree with me. 

It was relatively late going to bed by my standards. They guys needed to unwind after their call out. Understandably, it was pretty gruesome.

I set up on the floor and tried to sleep. A queasy pressure in my belly made it difficult, but I managed, until there was another call out. Now I was awake and feeling very ill. But the nausea eventually passed and I dozed until about 5:30. I got up and started packing. From 6 am people started shuffling in so I said my goodbyes and headed around the corner for something to calm my stomach and maybe some breakfast. I passed on breakfast, but had a coffee. The filling station had free WiFi so I updated this blog. 

For the second time my credit is up on my prepaid SIM and for the second time I'm having a terrible job to reload it. Failing again, I set off.

Today felt like it was going to be a zigzag day. There aren't many roads in Louisiana, so sometimes there is no direct route. First big target for the day would be Chicot State Park.





I set off on the now familiar schizophrenic Louisiana roads. One minute they're fine, the next I'm bumping over roads that look like they've been the victim of dive bombers.





Then I turned off onto a road of gravel. I'm not a fan of gravel. My only serious bike accident happened on gravel. The front wheel hit a large stone and slid away from me. 





While this road was slow going, it was interesting. People lived along the road, sandwiched between it and a bayou. Accommodation was anything from an old school bus to a shack that would hold the bike, but not the trailer. One lot had a shiny caravan under a shelter, but the rest were definitely ancient and often in poor repair. One van, for example was totally covered by an ancient tarp. This was off-grid living. I passed one vacant lot that had about 20 different "No Trespassing" signs. No house, shack or caravan - just the signs. I don't take photos in these places. I'm afraid of attracting attention. I did offer morning greetings to those outside when I passed, but unusually for this part of the world I got no response.

On to the State Park and the first bug in my plan. The Park operates a one-way system. Those heading west - me - have to take a long way around! Lovely, an even longer day!





The approach to the park brought some hills into the equation, although the trees provided a welcome shelter from the wind.

I rolled on towards Ville Platte, stopping for food at a big market & filling station. The girls serving me were blown away by my bike ride. I ate outside in the sun, then rolled onwards. 






The rest of the day was a struggle to be honest. Long, flat roads, lots of wind, effectively racing the sun. The landscape wasn't particularly inspiring and there was a sense that it was all a means to an end rather than an interesting part of the journey.





I passed several cemeteries that I would have liked to have stopped at, but I was under the time cosh. On a side note, it's not unusual to be buried above ground in these parts. Given the likelihood of flooding it is a prudent act.

My phone was still out of credit so I couldn't call my hostess for the evening. According to her, gps units direct to the wrong location. Contact would be required at some stage.

Eventually, I reached a sign proclaiming Oberlin 24 miles. In those 24 miles there were three turns! Temperature was now high 20s C and while the wind was a drag it was keeping me cool. It was a matter of head down and grind it out. The road surface kept changing too! Just to add to the sense of enjoyment I was now encountering big trucks regularly. If the road was bad I bailed onto the grass - these guys pass pretty close and there is no room to manoeuvre. Safety before speed.









I'm back now too, to having few places to stop. All in all the last two hours were a grind.One bright spot was the sky. A dense cloud moved in front of the sun with the effect that the sky turned pink, then orange, then purple. The cloud blocked all the light, but behind it, it seemed like the sun was pulling all its tricks out of the bag - it was glorious! 










At last I reached Oberlin and turned south as directed. I was on a major four lane highway so wanted to get off as soon as possible. Seeing the town Library I went in and explained my predicament. I was 100 meters from my destination! I walked the bike over to the Tourist Commission Office - no one there, although the back door was open. 

I went back to the Library hoping to make a phone call or use the WiFi, but they were locking up. 

I went back to the office and set up the tent deciding to wait. . Then inspiration hit me - there's a phone in the office! Cheekily, I rang my contact. No problem at all! A few minutes later a colleague was here, I got the tour, wifi password, shown the electrical sockets and the dedicated washroom block for passing cyclists! What a great little spot! We had a long chat, then I was left to my own devices!

Small town America is great! The local high School football team is playing a game so I can hear the commentary and ACDC at half time! The train rolled by a little while ago...loud! The Police know I'm here and will keep an extra eye out tonight. How great is all that? On top of that, this is the first evening in weeks that it's not cold! There are even a few mosquitoes about!

Tomorrow is an unknown quantity. Further down the road there's a church that welcomes cyclists. I'd hoped to get there tomorrow and maybe catch a service on Sunday too. The only problem is that it's more than 120km away and I'm not sure I want to do another day like today. I don't enjoy racing the clock. Whatever about riding the NTP in the dark I don't fancy Louisiana's roads in the dark.At the same time while the first half of today's journey was interesting, the second half was definitely dull and uninteresting. 

I'll see how I'm feeling in the morning. 



If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2019)

Day 86, Saturday, December 07, Oberlin to Ridder 57km

I woke up at about 4:30 am and gave serious consideration to getting up and making a run for the church camping spot. In the end, I decided against it and rolled over for another snooze.

When I did get up the sky was dull and grey, it was relatively cool and the wind was blowing strongly.

I made a pot of coffee, some porridge and some more coffee - I was in no rush. I'd decided to take advantage of the facilities and give my chain a good cleaning. I'd bought a new toothbrush so commandeered the old one for chain duty. The chain was very dirty. I'd given it a quick wipe and relube a couple of times since Nashville so this was well needed.

I also took advantage of the power & wifi to listen to the Northampton v Leinster Heineken Cup game. Such luxury on the road!

My camping spot last night was really great. I got such a welcome and the facilities they have laid on for bike tourists are exceptional. I particularly enjoyed listening to the "live" football game coming from the nearby stadium. You see these things in movies, there I was listening to it. Had I arrived earlier I'd have given serious consideration to going. A Friday night High School football game is typically small town America, no?





Once clean I got packed up. Taking down the tent was a bit challenging in the wind.

Setting off there was a problem immediately. The handling was all wrong - a soft rear tyre. Darn!

Back to the picnic table and I had a choice - pump it up & hope for the best or do a proper repair. I opted for the full repair since I had no idea of the road conditions and didn't fancy any complications on the side of the road.

I located the slow leak, patched it then had some problems with my pump. Maybe that's coming to the end of its life too. It has been around the block.

Packed up again I set off, this time with no issues.





The road from Oberlin was straight - straight into a headwind, but pleasant nonetheless for that. I had a decent shoulder outside the rumble strip and the sun was shining. It's amazing how a bit of sunshine lifts the spirits! Each side of the road was lined with forest and a couple of roadsigns reminded me I was on a trail of myths & legends. This is the kind of cycling I enjoy. The steady rhythm of the pedals combined with the relatively safe environment gives the mind loads of room to wander.





A ride like this is a bit like a snow globe for my mind. I can shake everything up and the meditative cycling allows everything to settle in place. Each thought, each idea can be examined as it lazily settles. Anything not settling down encourages extra scrutiny and deliberation. It really is a great way to figure out what's important.

Way back in the very early days of my touring I met a man on my way to Germany. He flagged me down and was very excited to meet another touring cyclist. He told me he had cycled from Russia (to NL)!

He also told me of his habit of bringing dead people with him! In the metaphorical sense! He told me of the many conversations he had had with long dead family members and friends. At the time I thought he was quite weird and declined his invitation to stay. I've often thought back and realised that he was far from weird. In many respects the mind clearing that takes place on a good days cycling lends itself to this and many other positive mental activities.

I pulled in for food in the small town of Mittie. It was quite a while since breakfast at that stage. The day was well getting away from me, but I had another 40 odd km to go.





Talk about straight roads!! Unbelievable! But hilly! Nothing too high, but a constant rolling up and down. The wind was coming at me diagonally for most of the way. As is the new normal, the road engineers were having a laugh. Pristine smooth surfaces turned to crap for no apparent reason. Most of the time there was a wide shoulder, but whether that was usable or not was open to debate. I took to taking the road as much as possible and dipping into the shoulder when traffic approached. 





The last 20km or so the shoulder was passable, albeit with cracks running across from the road. There was grass and moss growing in the cracks giving me a bumpy ride. The cracks on the road had their effect too - sometimes when a car drove over one of these there was a sound like a gunshot either right behind me or beside me! Never a dull moment!

Heading for De Ridder I saw a sign for an RV park with a bike symbol. This is not where I was headed but it's closer to my route and has everything I need - some grass and a bathroom! I got the tent set up just in time to notice the sun setting behind some trees.





Today was a really good day. I didn't get very far, but I enjoyed the trip, I got my drivetrain spick and span, I fixed a puncture, Leinster walloped Northampton and generally, I had a relaxing day. Tummy is still a bit off, though.

Tomorrow I'm still not sure on my destination. 

Now that I have credit again it appears my phone is acting up. I can make calls but I cannot hear anything. The other person can hear me, but that's not much use. It puts a bit of a downer on using some of the Warmshowers and other options like the church.

On the off-chance I've texted the Pastor in the church I'd like to stay at and he's just answered back! I'm camping at a church tomorrow! I'm really looking forward to this! 

And for good measure, I'll be rolling into Texas!! 



If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Dec 2019)

Day 87, Sunday, December 08, De Ridder to Kirbyville 90km

I had been looking forward to being woken up by the sun this morning, but the weather prevented that happening. There was a heavy fog on the ground so I took my time having breakfast and packing up. I don't see any point in rushing myself onto roads where visibility might be an issue.

When I did set off I took a figary and wandered off the official ACA route down some backroads. I was in no rush, had about 70kms to cover and the official route was all "big" roads.





I quite enjoyed my off course ramblings, although they added about 20kms to my journey today.





For back roads the surface was quite good! Best of all most of the dogs were either small and yappy or big and chained up.





About noon the sun made an appearance, a guest appearance, really since it didn't stay on stage too long. The wind was ever present, though.

I stopped about 1pm for a bite to eat and hit the road afterwards with a vengeance. I wanted to meet my host about 4pm.





I rolled through Merryville, my last town in Louisiana and then on to the Texas State Line. It was another of those reality meets concept moments!





I've always had a thing for Texas. Many years ago another "Road not Taken" might have seen me living in Texas. I'm a big fan of some Texas musicians and what little boy has not dreamed of being a cowboy on the wide Texas plains? Apart from a layover in Dallas airport many years ago I had never been, but it was always a place I wanted to visit. And here I was - visiting - on a bike!! Surgeons couldn't have scraped the smile off my face as I took some photos. This is my 8th State! I've cycled all the way from Virginia to here!

Eventually I had to carry on and the first thing I noticed was that the speed limits are higher here! 70mph on a two lane road, although I had a wide shoulder all to myself.





Then I turned on to a "country road", a two laner, no shoulder and a limit of 65mph. Thankfully, for most of it there was little traffic. There were houses, though, and that meant dogs. Most were yappy and happy to guard their boundary.

They talk of "Texas Hill Country" and Texas wasted no time in introducing hills! Up and down. Up and down.






I texted my host to say 4:30 would be a more realistic time and I arrived bang on my new schedule.

Talk about a welcome! No tent for me tonight - I have a room! I had a shower, a shave, put on some fresh clothes and was taken to dinner in a local restaurant. This is hospitality on a whole new level!!

The "cyclists" room has puncture repair kits, tools, oil, a pump, maps. Everything one can need.

My host, Jim, is the most charming of people, demonstrating his Christian faith in action without being preachy.

Kirbyville is not a wealthy town. 80% of kids qualify for a Government lunch program. He told me of how the Church helps the community. Kids are sent home from school on Fridays with a backpack of food so they can eat at the weekends.

The local churches pull together with food drives for families. For example, this Church is responsible for sugar and flour. Other churches for other items, donated by congregations or bought, as necessary. Then the complete "packages" are distributed.

This Church also has a creche/playschool to make it possible for parents to work without the exorbitant cost of childcare. The Church's annexe is also used by High School Students and other groups like the Boy Scouts - there are no other places for them.

I know I'm a guest in this country, but something strikes me as wrong in the picture just painted. What hope have kids with that start in life?

In between all that, Jim takes personal care of every single cyclist. He started in 2014 and has two folders full of pictures and comments from passing cyclists.

Frankly, I am humbled and awed at the Human Spirit on display here. I have the full run of the building - me, a scruffy, sweaty stranger who rolled up at 4:30pm is a trusted guest. This is so much more than I could have imagined.

Oh, Jim's picking me up at 7am to bring me for breakfast!

I haven't even thought about tomorrow yet. Today was such a wonderful day - my arrival in Texas, then my moving evening.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Dec 2019)

Day 88, Monday, December 09, Kirbyville to Big Thicket National Preserve 89km

Oh the perils of wifi and a Netflix subscription!! I was watching Frasier and the West Wing much too late last night! I was up though, at 6:30am because Jim was taking me to breakfast. There was no way he'd let me pay. Breakfast was delicious - eggs & sausage with biscuits and lashings of coffee. Jim told me old stories of Texas - great imagination fuel for the road!

I had to get my photo taken for his book and then I set off - in the wrong direction! Well, wrong according to the ACA route. The fact is they had laid out a very uninspiring ride in a wide shoulder along a big highway. I didn't fancy that, so set off on some smaller roads.





The target was Silsbee, not terribly far away. These smaller roads would be more interesting and a little longer.





There was no danger of sunshine for a while, although it was already warm and the chances of rain were high.

I was enjoying the cycling and the landscape, even the wind was generally welcome as a source of cooling. 

The landscape was hilly, sometimes swampy, sometimes agricultural and sometimes forest. The traffic was mainly light, although it tended to come in clusters. Not so pleasant when there's four or five big trucks barreling past.





At 11:59 the sun won it's battle with the clouds and came out to say hello. While I was literally basking in it's warmth I was distracted from the road and got a frightening shock when I heard panting at my right foot. A white dog had given chase and was closing in on me. I yelled at him and reached for the water bottle and gave him a squirt. He didn't back off, but he stopped gaining on me, now happy to bark me off.

Without meaning to tempt fate, I am feeling better about the dog situation. If something like this happened a couple of weeks ago I'd have been a nervous wreck afterwards - rubber legs, the works. Today, I just cycled on. I'll take that as a sign of progress. A break from any serious dog interactions seems to have lowered my anxiety level. 





After the small town of Spurger I was back on a main road, albeit with a wide shoulder. Taking a breather and looking at Google Maps I realised I had another option for tonight. I could head for Silsbee as planned or I could head to Big Thicket National Preserve. The second option was further away, but had the advantage of shortening tomorrow's journey. No bad thing considering rain is forecast.

I decided to take my new option and followed the highway until I turned back on to another back road. Again, this was real touring - interesting landscape, minimal traffic. For the first time, I noticed an error on Gizmo, my Wahoo Elemnt. By now I was well off the planned route, but the first 5km or so of this road were not on Gizmo's maps. I've never seen this before. I'm well used to wandering off my prepared routes and just using the simple map on the screen, but for the first stage I was in no man's land, although minor roads from my road were shown. Weird!





For the final leg it was back onto another main highway. Apart from a couple of hundred meters it had a shoulder the whole way. Cars & trucks zipping by make a lot of noise! I was glad to turn off onto the quiet road to the campground.





I got the tent set up and had dinner. Feeling very tired tonight. It's lovely and warm, for the moment, but rain is coming in and lower temperatures too!





The chap beside me has what I thought was a trailer tent. In fact, it's a trailer caravan. The roof pops up! It's quite a cool looking thing. He has an app that shows when the International Space Station is overhead and despite the cloud cover I got to see it!

Tomorrow, I'm heading for Shepherd. There's a campground there. Given the weather and the out of the way location of the campground I emailed them to be on the safe side. They have cabins at $20 - maybe an idea after a day of rain!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Dec 2019)

Day 89, Tuesday, December 10, Big Thicket National Preserve to Shepherd Sanctuary 82km
Oh be careful what you wish for! 

More on that later.

I woke up a couple of times during the night, heard the rain on the tent and rolled over again.

I woke up at 4:30am and gave serious consideration to packing up & hitting the road. The rain had lightened and it seemed like a good opportunity. Then I thought about the light and the conditions. It would be dark for another two hours at least. I decided sleep was safer!

When I did wake up again I wasted no time packing up. Hitting the road I was in my full raingear and high Viz vest. I'd skipped making breakfast in the rain and was headed for Honey Island an hour down the road for coffee and whatever warm food I could eat.





As always in the wet I was cold for a few minutes but then warmed up. The wind was from a northerly direction and pretty cool. For the first twenty minutes I was on the big shoulder of a main highway. Then I turned off onto a farm road, much less traffic and a minor shoulder. Progress was steady, pedalling hard enough to stay warm, not too fast that I'd overheat and also trying not to waste too much energy to the wind.





Getting close to Honey Island I was really looking forward to something warm inside me. I was certainly ready for breakfast.

On this trip I have a personal and probably bizarre list of things I'd like to do. One of them is to be stopped at a railway crossing when one of those mighty long trains rumbles across for ages and ages. In my mind's eye that has always occurred in Texas, a small road, winding through the desert, a long train rumbling past, front and back lost in the distance……

You see where this is going right?

Right before Honey Island I got my wish - in the pouring rain and howling wind! I was about 30 seconds too slow to make the gates and was caught on the wrong side! Trains are long in this part of the world and not particularly fast. In the time it took to pass I nearly froze!





Oh well, another thing off my list!

I ate in the town's only store and chatted to some locals. I even got my first "Howdy"!

In these small towns the local filling station or store is the hub of the community. I'd reckon if I hung around long enough I'd meet most people in the town.

Food orders are called in & picked up, pleasantries exchanged, news shared. 

Given the weather I was looked on kindly by the locals.

As I was leaving another touring cyclist was pulling in. Ignacio was heading from Houston. We formed a mutual commiseration society on account of the weather. Ignacio is riding with homemade panniers and baskets. The rain really isn't good for him. Nonetheless he was in good form. I passed on the details of the UMC in Kirbyville to him and headed off into the rain.

Talk about a straight road!!! Only for the rain blocking my view it seemed like it went forever in a straight line! For over an hour I ploughed on just straight. A narrow shoulder made passing traffic more tricky, but thankfully the logging trucks were coming against me. In truth the traffic was concentrated in bursts, then nothing for twenty minutes.





Eventually, I made a turn and then another straight road - this time with hills! To make matters more interesting the rain was getting gradually heavier.

At about the half way point I rolled into Rye. Another coffee break! I had a coffee and a doughnut in the filling station and went back out to the bike where I got talking to a couple. Today, people are being especially chatty & friendly - I'm putting it down to the weather, but it could be Texas too!

Deciding I wasn't quite ready to hit the road I went back inside and had another coffee! I was chastising myself for laziness, but when I did set off the next 20kms flew by.





The wind was coming from a northerly direction so for most of the day I had a crosswind since I was generally heading west. At one stage, only for about five minutes or so, I was heading south and was blown along. It was glorious! Hardly any sound, much less chilly. Bliss, even in the rain.





Turning off to head to Shepherd and my campground I veered essentially north. It was not pretty! The signpost said 9 miles and they were amongst the longest 9 miles I've ever done!

There's a Texas singer/songwriter called Ray Wyllie Hubbard who sings a great song about his life and ambitions. He finishes it with something like "The days I keep my gratitude higher than my expectations I have pretty good days" (Watch his performance on Letterman on YouTube - there's a very funny line in there).

Well, my campground was like that. I had low expectations. I knew I could get a cabin and given the weather, that was my preference. But this place is amazing!! It's a little Hippy Dippy, but my cabin is gloriously decorated with old Texas memoribilia and just plain quirky stuff. I had a wonderful shower, there's a kitchen to cook my dinner in and the place is overrun with cats! One even made enough of an impression that I let him sit on my lap!





A wonderful end to a tough old day.









If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2019)

Day 90, Wednesday, December 11, Shepherd Sanctuary to Double Lake Campground 32km

What a wonderful little place I was staying at. I'd downloaded "The Irishman" so watched that last night in bed. The luxury!





The sun was well up when I awoke. I stumbled over to the communal kitchen where coffee was already made!

I took my time packing everything up, tightening a loose bolt on my rack too.

I had a couple of options on destinations; basically Forestry Service Parks either 30 or 70 km further. I also needed to do some grocery shopping and get to a bank. Busy day!!

I set off back down the little road I took last night. The sun was blasting out of the cloudless sky and it was like I had never been on this road before! What a difference a day makes! It also seemed incredibly short whereas last night I thought the road would never end!

It's about 8 or 9C but the sun makes a big difference to the temperature. The next few days should be good, but the nights will be cold.

I hit the town of Shepherd and got my groceries & cash. On the way out I was peckish so stopped at a roadside trailer for some grub and coffee. They had outside tables in the sun - that swung it for me. Two brothers were also getting some food and were really, really interested in the bike. One of them kept staring at the bike and saying "you came from Virginia on that!" I'm fairly sure he meant bicycle as opposed to a perjorative reference to my faithful Roccado!

We had a really good conversation about my trip, my motivations etc. They had a lot of questions about the bike and the gear I was using. When one of them asked me the (usual) question "Do you carry a gun?" it was the first time I didn't hesitate in answering in the negative. These were good guys. They work on electrical infrastructure - pylons, poles etc., sometimes from helicopters! One of them sent out a message about me on their group chat - I sure hope it was a "watch out for this guy" as opposed to "here comes some target practice"!

They packed up to leave then one of them came back with the offer of some glasses for me. I have glasses so I declined gratefully, but yet another example of stranger's kindness in action.

When they left I got talking to the owner of the stand. He was sure he'd met me before so I had to run through the places I'd been.

As I set off I figured I'd head for the closer campground as it was getting late and my tent was still soaking wet from the morning before.





Out of town I had my now familiar dilemma - take the ACA route or make up my own on smaller roads. As I approached the point of decision two out of three cars heading in my direction took the turn for the smaller road while the only car in the other direction took it too. Looking down the minor option the trees were high and a lot closer to the edge of the road - there was a lot of shade. This time I took the ACA route because of the sunshine!

It was straight and hilly. Short, steep hills. The shoulder was wide but full of debris and the surface was rough. But it was all mine. Traffic was light as I rolled along. The legs were feeling heavy after yesterday too.





Texas has lots of fences. In comparison to anywhere else I have been in the bike in the U.S. it has by far the most fences. There is very little public land in Texas, nearly all land is in private ownership. They don't bother with No Trespassing signs in the main. Instead they use purple paint to signify private property. Basically, a gate or a tree with purple paint means something like "Cross this line and someone will be along shortly to shoot you". Of course, one advantage of these fences is that dogs are behind them!

They also like their elaborate gates, especially at farms.

However, Texas also seems to provide picnic spots. I passed two today, just a simple layby with picnic table or two. Handy for the weary (or in my case, lazy) cyclist.

I stopped at one of these on the edge of the town of Coldspring and since I had a good internet connection I updated this blog. Then I hopped back on the bike and rode out to my campground.





It's in a big forest by a lake and I appear to be the only person here! I met the rangers, paid up my fee and set the tent up in the sun. It is soaking wet! My actual pitch is shaded by trees so I'm moving the tent around to maximise the sun.





The lake is beautiful and I have it all to myself!





People sometimes ask me if I get lonely on these trips, cycling solo. Generally speaking, the answer is "No". There are always pleasant people to talk to along the way. Sometimes I've ridden with someone for a day or two if we're going in the same direction. The loneliest I've ever been was on my first bike tour along the Danube, ending in Vienna. The last day had been quite tough (my fault) and I'd arrived exasperated, frustrated, tired and starving. But Vienna charmed me and I had the most magical evening exploring the city centre. It was such a perfect evening that I missed having someone to share it with.

Tonight, looking at the lake, the beautiful spot I have all to myself, a little of that feeling crept in. Not much, just a little.





Not exactly the longest day in cycle touring history, but a very pleasant one.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2019)

Day 91, Thursday, December 12, Double Lake Campground to Cagle Recreation Area 52km

Night last night was special. No other word for it. First of all, I was completely alone in a huge area, only the night sounds of animals and owls calling. Secondly, it was darn cold! A night for tucking in, warm and cosy in a sleeping bag. Finally, and best of all, there was a bright, full moon in the clear sky. I don't think I've ever seen a moon so bright. It lit up my tent as bright as day. About 10pm I actually dragged myself out of bed for a pee and took a little stroll around. The moonlight on the trees was just amazing. The trees and leaves and ground were illuminated, but since the light was not directly from the sun they were lacking their usual colours. Instead of green and rust and brown there were different shades of a silvery white and blue effect. Startling, beautiful and very atmospheric. Bloody cold too!

Until relatively recently I used to be petrified of the dark. These days I think I'm making up for lost time by soaking up what the night has to offer. I wandered around for a little while, amazed at the shadow the moon was casting of me, then gratefully got back into bed and snuggled down.

Because of the shade of the high trees around my tent I was awake a bit later than normal and stayed in bed an extra few minutes because it was cold outside!

Then I got up and did my chores, making breakfast & coffee, moving the tent into the sun. Today looks like another glorious day!

The morning was so nice I took my pot of coffee down to the lake to simply enjoy. I've been looking forward to visiting Texas for so long I have no intention of rushing through.





On my way back to my tent I met the ranger, John, again. We had a long talk about life, the universe and everything, really. He packed in his job in construction, bought an RV and now lives and works in the forest. He's a lot poorer, for sure, but a whole lot happier and contented. 

It was after noon when I finally rolled off - the latest start so far, I think. But what a lovely morning it was!

At the start the road was fine, then I left San Jacinto county and it all went pear shaped. First of all I lost my big wide shoulder. Now it was about a meter wide but half of it was taken up with a rumble strip dug out of the surface. The cars still expected me to stay in it though!





Then I hit roadworks. At first it was ok - I was cycling on the improved part, lovely smooth tarmac, staying outside the bollards so relatively swift and safe. But then I hit the next stage - the prep work. No shoulder, crap all over and cars flying past.





I saw a small store and pulled in needing a break from the traffic more than anything. I ordered a burger and while waiting wandered around this general store. It had everything! Food and drinks, a gun section, a knife section, loads of outdoor/hunting gear as well as kids clothes and lingerie! It made for an interesting exploration!

I set off again going as fast as possible to get through the roadworks. At last they ended and I breathed a huge sigh of relief.

But I breathed too soon. A red/wine pickup coming up behind me gave a couple of toots on the horn. Appreciating what I thought was a friendly warning I prepared to raise my hand in salute when I saw him in the mirror barrelling straight for me! Now he was blasting his horn in a "get off the road" way and I had no choice but to ride over the rumble strip, onto the verge and try to avoid the steep drop. For good measure he drove on the rumble strip beside me, the noise just adding to the general sense of mayhem.

I really, really don't get this naked aggression. There was no oncoming traffic, there was nothing behind. All they had to do was give the steering a gentle tug in one direction. Instead he ran me off the road.

After that, I was in a foul mood. With no safe place to stop I continued on, unable to let it go.

I came to the town of New Waverly and had to take a diversion while they are rebuilding a bridge. Of course, it isn't at all clear what bikes are supposed to do. It looked like the diversion was onto the Interstate, a no-no for bikes, but the guys at the worksite couldn't help. In the end I winged it, avoided the Interstate and got back on course. 





Now the road was smaller, but with a usable shoulder. Traffic was also lighter. This was forest country and the trees are spectacularly tall! I passed one camping option in favour of another further down the road. When I made it, I had to fill out an envelope & pay. These registration forms are a pain in the ass for foreigners on a bike. They want loads of info and the number of your campsite. We're supposed to cycle down, pick our site, cycle back up and pay. Sometimes the campsites are miles from the office! Also, it was $30 for the night - last night was $20.

Still grumpy I rolled on in. I toured the first "loop" of sites and decided to go further. The second "loop" was the last, close to a huge lake. When I saw the view my grumpiness started to fade. I picked out a site, lovely & spacious so I can pitch on grass as opposed to the sand/gravel. I had just parked up when my neighbour came over. Vicky is actually a "host" so she finished off my paperwork. She said if I needed anything to just ask. Jokingly, I said I'd like a beer and she replied "no problem - she had beers". 





I declined her kind offer but as I set up the tent I thought a nice beer might be just what the doctor ordered. A few minutes later found me tapping on her door. When I asked if I could buy a beer she said that I could have one, but she couldn't accept money. That wouldn't work for me so I told her if she looked around she might find some money and finding money wasn't against the law. On this basis the transaction proceeded until she returned one of my dollars saying she had found too much! She offered me more beers, but one was enough for me. In any case, she showed me where they were and I was to help myself!

I returned to my table and was having my first swallow when she was back - this time with a big, big bowl of freshly made stew! For me! Delicious!

What a rollercoaster of a day! A wonderful, lazy, interesting morning, a foul couple of hours on the road causing a complete shift in mood, then an encounter with a kind, generous person to swing the pendulum the other way! 

And that's before I talk about the view! 

























This cycle touring lark is pretty good for the soul!



If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Dec 2019)

Day 92, Friday, December 13, Cagle Recreation Area to Navasota Fire Station 61km

Normally these campgrounds have "quiet" times from 10pm to 6am. Since Vicky had broken the rules by giving me a beer, I couldn't really object when she played Christmas music all night long!

In fairness, I've been bombarded with Christmas music for weeks now, in stores, filling stations - everywhere. Most of it is the cheapy cover versions so at least these were the classics.

It hadn't been so cold last night, although the moon was very bright again. This time I had no real urge to go walkabout since there were lots of other campers. I was up for 7:30 and had a leisurely breakfast. I've noticed my bowls of porridge are getting bigger & bigger! 

While having my breakfast I noticed my picnic table (made out of steel) was locked to a steel rod embedded in concrete. Add that to the fact that there's a sign in the bathrooms asking people not to steal the soap or shower curtains (!), things must get pretty wild here at times!

I'd another chat with Vicky and hit the road. This is another "pack it in, pack it out" park where they have no bins at the campground. You're expected to either burn your rubbish or bring it out of the park. Easy enough with a car, a PITA on the bike!





The sun had been swallowed up by cloud but I had a quiet road pretty much to myself. I crossed the big lake, but without the sun it wasn't as impressive as last night.





My destination today was Navasota about 50kms down the road. I was feeling good and had thought about pushing the distance a bit, but after Navasota there are no accommodation options for a while. 

For the last two days I've been cycling through the Sam Houston National Forest - in Texas everything is big! The first part of today had a lot of similarities to the NTP, although at times, the dense forest seemed very close to the road. Wonderful fuel for imagination!





Changing onto another road the surface became better, although the shoulder disappeared. I was moving well, feeling good, eating up the constant short climbs. Approaching the town of Richards the landscape started to open up. I was starting to see further and further. Unfortunately, I was also starting to feel the effects of a headwind. In the one horse town of Richards I stopped for some grub, then rolled on out again.





Next stop was Anderson, a painfully slow section in open, rolling country, buffeted by a diagonal headwind. It was very tough work! Climb 70 or 80 meters, drop the same, rinse & repeat, all the time battling the wind. Cycling downhill and having to change gears onto the smallest front ring can be soul destroying! Having said that, the countryside was interesting, more open, more agricultural, although the road stretching straight away in the distance can be demoralising at times.





Since Louisiana there have been cattle out in the fields, beef cattle by the looks of it. They're as interested in me as the dogs! It's not unusual for every single bullock in the field to stare at me as I roll on past. A few days ago, a group of about six young cattle actually ran along beside me! Either I smell like a cow or they think my bike is a tarted up cow!

Reaching Anderson the traffic quickly increased so I decided to stop for a coffee before the last leg. Outside the filling station I got talking to two guys, both drunk (before 3pm), one of whom had driven there and shortly drove off again, pulling out in front of a big 18 wheeler. Food for thought.

Back on the road I had a huge, wide shoulder that was much needed because of the heavy traffic, many of which were trucks. I could see an alternative way on Gizmo so coped with the traffic to the turn off - A gravel and sand road. I chose the traffic and made my last burst to Navasota, 10 miles away according to the road sign.





Leaving Anderson I ran into Dan heading the other way. He's hoping to be in Florida in January. He's met two other bike tourists on his trip and based on his description, both sounded more than a little odd. But then again, I probably do too! Dan's lucky - he's got the wind helping him!

I made it to Navasota - it's busy!! The Fire Station hosts cyclists so I've headed here. It's open but no-one is home! I'm assuming out on a call. My telephone hasn't been working - I can hear nothing, although the other end can hear me. Having had a brainwave, I took the phone out of its cover and tried it. It worked! Still no answer, though!





Tomorrow will be longish by recent standards I think. There's no camping options for a while. Then there's the wind too! I'm hoping for an early start to take the pressure off for the day.

I also need to start thinking about accommodation in Austin. I signed up for AirBnB when I was in Nashville, so I may give that a try. I'm going to take a few days in Austin. I want to do some touristy things and I need to fill out the detail on my route to the Pacific coast of Mexico. I've no idea what my internet connectivity will be like so want to have as much detail & info as possible. I also need to start learning some Spanish!

The sunset tonight was just spectacular!















The guys finally showed up & I was made most welcome! I had a great shower, then ordered a pizza - I'd been having a craving. There's three firefighters on call tonight and the banter between them was top class! I'm really enjoying my second stay at a fire station!

I'm one hell of a lucky guy!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2019)

Day 93, Saturday, December 14, Navasota Fire Station to Warrenton, Tx 89km

Sometimes when I'm cycling along I'm thinking of things I want to put down in this blog, making a mental note of something significant to me. Today was different. Today was a day where I was thinking of just how inadequate language can be to express what I was seeing and feeling and the camera has not yet been invented that would do justice to some of the sights today. Looking back at the photos taken today, they are a pale, bland imitation of what I was seeing. The scale is immense, no photo can do it justice. Instead of "Sunflowers", you'll be getting a single petal.






I've been doing a lot of reading on this trip. Books connected to where I'm travelling really bring the days to life. Larry McMurtry really brings the old West, and Texas to life. I'm currently reading one of his books and last night, in Navasota, Navasota was mentioned in my book! 

Sleeping in the communal room with the firefighters I awoke at 4:30 am. Unwilling to disturb them, I rolled over for another snooze. I was awake again before 7 just in time for an alarm call. Lights on, a loud alarm and the dispatch guy on hidden speakers. As they got organised I got up too. I packed up and just before leaving got to say my goodbyes as they returned.

I headed out of town, stopping for a coffee and some food. Traffic was surprisingly light and I started making some decent headway on the wide shoulder. 





There's a little bit of cycling Heaven in Texas. It's called the William Penn road, about 10 miles west of Navasota from Highway 105.





I turned onto this blessed road and felt like I had really arrived in Texas. It was simply, glorious! A quiet country road with barely any traffic, the traffic that did pass was moving at a snail's pace by Texas standards, it weaved around and up and down through some incredible landscapes. There was open farmland, big copses of trees, dense scrubland, waterholes or small lakes. Small birds were singing everywhere! 





That's something I've noticed before, or rather, the lack of singing birds. So far on this trip there has been none! Today, though, they were out in force!

I felt an emotional tug at the state line when I reached Texas. Today, I surfed on a wave as I finally reached the Texas I had imagined. There are no words!





I stopped so many times, not to take a picture, just to make sure I didn't miss anything. There was no way I was going to rush through here! I could quite happily spend a couple of days riding up and down this road. It was special.

I look at the map now and I see it's only 10 miles long. It felt like 100, in the most positive way.

Texas is full of trees. Not just the National Forest I spent the guts of two days cycling through. Trees in clusters in fields, presumably to offer shade & shelter. Trees on the side of the road doing the same. These trees are old and characters in their own right. Today, there were so many of these trees. I'm no botanist and can barely recognise a Christmas tree, but these trees spoke to me. They have seen so much of the history of this place.





I passed an animal sanctuary, full of deer. In Texas!!! They were curious until I stopped to take a photo. Once I started to move off, I initiated a full on deer stampede!

I even saw my first cowboy!! He was out checking fences so I pressed hard on the pedals to get to him to ask his permission to take a photo. Alas, the hill wouldn't co-operate so I had to snap this from a distance.





I came to a cemetery and couldn't resist going in. I've passed a few in the last week - most are down side roads - but have felt a little uneasy about going in. Today, I wandered around. Most of the headstones were Newman's. The oldest I saw was for a man born in 1803 in Georgia, dying in 1889. There were quite a few that lived to a good old age back then, remarkable given the tough times. 
There were also many headstones for infants and young children demonstrating just how hard a life it was.
In these places it's possible to see the father and mother, their children and their children's children. The cemeteries are so small and dedicated to one family.
An interesting quirk I noticed on two headstones was the fact that only the wife's initials appeared, under which were the words "Wife of …". 
A different time.

I reached the small town of Independence and stopped at the General Store for a coffee and sandwich. There was no coffee, but they made me one, anyway.
As I was getting ready to leave, a man I took to be the proprietor started asking me about my trip. He has a simple book that he asks passing cyclists to fill in. He was a very pleasant chap with a great sense of humour. He presumed I was English and I corrected him in my own style - that's how I know he has a good sense of humour! We had a very interesting chat about lots of things while people came into his store and did their business. Everybody was relaxed and laid back, willing to wait, not wanting to interrupt the conversation flow.

Outside, a young girl (4th grade) was setting up a stall to sell Christmas cakes to raise money for her school. It's a small town now, but there was a real sense of community, with everyone chatting to each other and most buying a $20 cake.

After Independence the road became a bit bigger, but traffic was not too fast and quite respectful. I was feeling the hills a little more, but it was still fabulous cycling. There was a constant up and down the whole day.





After Burton, everything changed! A massive 4 lane, split highway, 75mph limit and heavy traffic. After the quiet and the birdsong earlier it was an audial shock to the system! There is no describing the volume of a pickup with off-road tyres barreling past you at 75mph on a chip/seal road. 

To get off the road I had to cross the two lanes of traffic - not a pleasant task. Then I found myself on a smaller two lane, without a shoulder and reasonably heavy traffic. Alas, these folks were in a hurry unlike earlier.





I had passed a turnoff for one campground and was now heading for the town of Round Top to a campground mentioned in the maps. When I finally got there, it was closed & up for sale! Uh oh! 
Roundtrip is a town with a population of 90 and about 20 antique shops and markets. Apparently, they hold antique fairs that attract thousands!

My next option was the town of La Grange, about 30km down the road. I really didn't fancy that as I was heading due west into a sinking sun - making me very difficult to see for traffic coming from behind. Given the time I'd probably be arriving after dark, too. 

I popped into the local store and asked the lady about camping. She told me of an RV campground out the road, so I called and yes, they'd take a tent! Sorted!

The lady in the store, when she learned I was Irish had an interesting version of the "Irish roots" story! Her mother visited Ireland for 11 months and came back pregnant and with a baby - her "reminders" of Ireland! The father stayed in Ireland. Her mother never said a bad word about him!

So here I am sitting beside the road. A lovely old lady checked me in - more of a chat really - I got the impression she was a bit lonely. There's no washrooms, but I have water. I can pee in a bush! Cost? $5! I'm perfectly happy with that! I got off the road before it got dangerous and I have a place to sleep.

For years I've read about Texas, I've listened to and enjoyed the music. It's a place I've wanted to visit for a long, long time. I've been here for a few days, but today was the day I really felt like I was in Texas, or at least, the Texas I have imagined. 





If there's something you really, really want to do, or a place you really, really want to visit, just do it. If it's not possible at the moment, keep the dream alive by reading about, or watching videos or movies or listening to the sounds of your dream. Make a plan. Just do it. It feels wonderful when you do! 


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2019)

Day 94, Sunday, December 15, Warrenton, Tx to Bastrop State Park 84km

It rained during the night, unexpectedly. It wasn't heavy rain, or constant rain, instead it was more like tiny little rain fairies had tiny little water pistols and were shooting different parts of the tent all night. In any case, the tent was wet in the morning.

I just wasn't feeling it this morning which was a big surprise after the great day yesterday and the fact that I'd booked (my first ever!) AirBnB in Austin for Monday night. On top of that I'd checked out some of my favourite artists and I've plans for Monday & Tuesday in Austin and Saturday in San Antonio!

I dragged myself out of bed about 7:30. Sunrise is typically about 7:15 in these parts. I'd already decided to skip breakfast to make the cycling day as long as possible.

I laboured to get organised and the tent didn't seem to be drying out too well, either. That was odd, too, since the wind was blowing strongly!

Just before 9 I hit the road. I may as well have had breakfast!

I love these trees!





La Grange was about 20 km down the road - that would be my breakfast spot. Right from the off I wondered if I'd ever make it! Traffic was light that early on a Sunday morning, but the wind was blowing me all over the place! A south Westerly wind and I was going to be heading west for most of the day! It was not a fun start to the day. 

I struggled into LaGrange and gratefully pulled into the first service station I saw. In fairness, this was a fancy place with BBQ food, a supermarket, bakery and a clothes store all under one roof.

Hoping for a breakfast type meal I could only choose BBQ, so opted for two sandwiches (I need my energy!!) and a coffee. The coffee worked its magic and I wolfed down the food.

Feeling much better I rode through LaGrange - most noticeable feature: a huge cemetery split by the road through town - and out the other side. At that point I turned north for a while and began to fly with the wind now pushing me along. Quickly, though, I encountered two problems. The first was the appearance of a rumble strip in the middle of my shoulder, seriously restricting my speed and the second were stomach cramps. It looked like I'd eaten my sandwiches way too fast.





Whenever I had to push on the pedals with reasonable power my belly acted up. There were a lot of hills! Thankfully, there were quite a few bridges too which gave me a chance to stop and take a breather. By this stage the sun was out and the temperature was hitting 30C too! 





I started to feel a little down and a little under pressure. I wanted to get to at least Bastrop tonight to give me a decent chance of Austin tomorrow. With the wind and my belly that was looking like a campground too far. So I had a talk with myself and decided that today was today and tomorrow could look after itself. I struggled on to the little town of Winchester where I found the little store, had a coffee, some Gatorade and rested for an hour sitting on their porch in the sun. They had a binder on the counter "Winchester then and now" that had pages for the current and previous buildings in Winchester and the people in them. It was a delightful read of the history of this very small town, undertaken by local, amateur historians. What a great idea!





Feeling better, I hit the road again, this time more into the wind. I was immediately grateful for my talk to myself - the going was much easier. I wasn't zooming, but I was making steady progress and appreciating the country around me.

My next target was the Buescher State Park. I could have camped there but was feeling good enough to go on. I had to pay a $3 admission though. I didn't regret that in the least as now I was on quiet roads in the National Park that would take me to the next National Park and my campground for the night. I was enjoying myself so much I even started to think about going further!





Ha! Dumbass!






The road in the National Park turned downright vindictive! There were some ridiculously steep climbs and descents. I never got very high, but each meter up felt vertical. And the same on the way down!! I had to be careful too because, although there was little traffic, oncoming traffic tended to come around blind corners on the wrong side of the road.





I had a frustrating experience with a proctocologist on one of these crazy descents. I know she was a proctocologist because she practically rammed her car up my ass as if to do an investigation! I pulled in to let her by and she waved her mobile phone at me as she drove past! I was really frustrated at losing all that momentum on the way down and cursed her roundly all the way up the other side!





But these climbs were brutal. My belly still wasn't 100% and they were taking a lot out of me. And it was hot too!






Eventually, I arrived at the edge of Bastrop State Park and settled on this as my location for the night. I was not going to push it anymore.

However, the campgrounds and office were on the far side of the park. With renewed vigour I set off on the last leg. Renewed at least, until I hit the next hill! I came to one campground and passed it, then another. I still had to get to the office and either check in or pay as a late arrival. There's not much flexibility in their rules here.

What got to me was another steep climb. The sun was sinking, my tent was wet, I had passed the campgrounds (3!) and now I'd another feckin' steep hill to climb. My Hiberno-English swearing at full volume wouldn't have been understood by most in this area!

I finally, finally got to the office and saw two rangers outside. I called out a greeting to them and parked up the bike. They got in their cars and drove away without word one.

The office was closed! Now I had to fill in another stupid form (different to the last 2 state parks) and pay my money. No pens or pencils to fill out the forms. No map to tell you which campsite was which (they have different prices). I was really peed off. I put my money in a blank envelope, using coins as a marker in case any ranger asks me), turned around and found a spot as the sun was dropping down. I'm supposed to pitch in sand/gravel again, but since I'm the only tent I set it on grass.

There wasn't much time for it to dry out so the floor is a bit damp.





I sat down for a while to cool off.

In fairness, it's a nice spot, although close to a busy road. I'm in a tent site, the next field is for RVs and the toilet block is there. It's big and modern and it has a dish washing area - something I've only seen in one other campground.

There is also a covered, communal area with picnic tables and a huge fireplace. It's lit with electric lights, has power sockets so that's where I'll set myself up for the evening!

The stars are out in force tonight too and for the first night in ages it's not cold!!

Tomorrow, the weather is due to turn. Rain is forecast. Austin is the target. I'm hoping for an early start to give myself the best chance of having a comfortable approach. David, in the fire station in Navasota told me that the Austin Fire Department changed their shift times so the changeover didn't occur in the morning rush hour! I'll be using a cycle.travel route over the ACA route. I trust cycle.travel far more, in general, and certainly in and around cities.

All going well, I'll arrive early, have a nap and head out to see one of my musical heroes do his residency in a pub! 






If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2019)

Day 95, Monday, December 16, Bastrop State Park to Austin 63km

Last night sitting in the covered area I had an unpleasant encounter with a Ranger. After eating and writing up this blog I was sitting reading my Kindle having made a pot of tea. It was the first night in ages that it wasn't cold so I was enjoying the fresh air as opposed to being wrapped up in the tent.

A vehicle pulled up behind me with full lights on. I looked behind me but could see nothing as the lights were directly pointing at me. I thought nothing much of it as it's also close to the bins. After a few minutes of no movement I began to get a little nervous.

Then a voice called out "what are you doing there?".
Again I turned around and again was blinded. I said I was just after having my dinner.
At that point the voice identified itself as a park ranger and asked me again what I was doing here.

I turned around again, shielding my eyes with my arm and could see the outline of a man, but again I turned around because the lights were cutting the eyes out of me.

I was confused by the question repetiton. Did he mean here in the campground? Did he mean in the US? And I was getting irritated.

I told him I was camping here, that I was travelling by bicycle, that I made my dinner here because it's close to the washup area and the bins.

Then he wanted to see my proof of payment, which of course, I didn't have. I told him I'd put $19 in an envelope but there was no information on it because there were no pens.

Satisfied, he stepped out of the lights and moved around to talk some more. At least now I could see him. Apparently, where I was sitting was "day use" and couldn't be used after 10pm. I told him I'd be in bed long before 10 pm. At that point he became a bit friendlier, but frankly, I didn't much feel like reciprocating.

After he drove off I packed up and went to bed.

This morning, his colleague actually parked up in the first spot I'd be walking past to go to the bathrooms and waited for me. When I walked past I got called back and asked what I was doing. I pointed at my tent, clearly visible, and said I was camping there. Then he wanted to see my proof of payment. I repeated the story and satisfied, he drove off, only to return a few minutes later wanting to know what number site I had used. I had no idea. There were five spots and I had used the one closest to the washrooms. The whole tent section was empty except for me - what did it matter where I camped??

By far my most unpleasant experience in a government campground. They can be very slow and detailed with their paperwork, but at least they're friendly. As far as both of these guys were concerned, I was a badguy until proven otherwise.

Anyway, I was awake at 4:30 am full of excitement for the day ahead! There was no point in getting up as I had some busy roads to negotiate from the get go and I had no intention of doing them in the dark, or in rush hour. On the other hand, pretty bad weather was forecast with rain and strong winds. I was anxious to avoid getting the tent wet as I may not have much chance to dry it out for the next few days

Inside the tent I got changed into my day clothes, packed the panniers and dozed for a little while.

The rain stayed off, I broke down the tent, met the ranger and set off. My plan was to grab breakfast on the way.

The town of Bastrop had a busy approach and busier exit. I stopped for coffee & burritos on the way out. They were served from a dedicated food section in a filling station. The lady was Hispanic, speaking Spanish to her colleague. I really should have at least tried to order in Spanish, but the usual failing of the non-native speaker applied - say nothing for fear of making a mistake. I'll have to get over that pronto!

*Looking back towards Bostrop*






I was taking the Old Austin Highway, parallel to, I presume, the New Austin Highway. It was a bit hairy for a few km until most of the traffic decamped onto the new road. Then I had a lane to myself, pretty much.

*This guy pulled over 3 cars in the relatively short time I was on the big road*





When I finally got off that road I stopped for another coffee. Today was going to be a long day - the wind was from the North, cold and strong. On the road again I was crawling along in the wind. There was a narrow shoulder that was perfect for the speed I was going.





For about a km I travelled south and was blown along. It was over way too soon!

Looking ahead I could see the road was turning west which would leave me with more of a cross wind than a headwind. Focused on a bend up ahead and thinking of taking a photo for posterity I learned a lesson about how important it is to stay focused.

*The distracting bend*





I use my mirror frequently to see what's coming behind me as well as using my ears. Today, the wind meant I rarely heard something behind me until the last moment and distracted by the upcoming bend and the great photo I'd take I never noticed a car zooming up behind me. They barely missed me and gave me such a shock I rode off the shoulder onto the grass. Thankfully, it was reasonably flat.

I wondered if the driver was just a twat, or if there was something malicious about it. Of course, they may not have seen me at all! Lesson learned - stay focused. It doesn't matter about the driver, only that I can react.

From that point on, it became a little easier. After about 35km I stopped for yet another coffee. Gizmo was reading about 9C and it was a cold 9!

This was a big supermarket with deli counter, hot food and the largest fresh food, vegetables and fruit I've seen since I landed here. Everybody working there was Hispanic and I began to wonder if fresh food would be more available in Mexico?

Now I was on back roads rolling through a poor Hispanic area. There were a few dogs out but most ignored me, except one guy who barked loudly and ran beside me, protecting his area until I passed to a neighbour at which point he stopped so suddenly it seemed like an invisible cord pulled him back.






I was getting close to Austin now and traffic was surprisingly light. By the airport I was on a six lane dual carriageway that had little traffic. I had a shoulder most of the way too.





About 16km from my destination a cycle lane appeared so I rode that into town. About the same time, the sun, that had been fighting the clouds finally won and the temperature began creeping up.










*Colorado River - my second crossing of it today*











Austin is hilly, but the cycle.travel route was great. A few kms from my AirBnB I pulled into an old fashioned burger place for some food, then completed the last leg.

The AirBnB is fine. There's a wonderfully, friendly and playful dog to help with my therapy. I unpacked and lay down on the bed for a nap. The plan is a little snooze to recharge the batteries, then up & shower, some fresh clothes, get some food and go to a gig.

I've given myself three days in Austin. I'm going to try for San Antonio for Saturday for another gig. I think I'll swap my tyres around front and back. I may also get a new chain. Apart from laundry the rest of the time is all about music, margheritas and food!

I've made it to Austin!! Stage Two complete!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2019)

Days 96 & 97 Austin, 0 km

Aaaaaah! Austin!

I know very, very little about Austin. I knew I wanted to visit. The things I wanted to do were very simple, but important to me.

In no particular order I wanted to check out Waterloo records, the Texas Chili Parlor, I wanted to see Bob Schneider play with his band in his "local" bar, I wanted to see whatever other artists were available, I wanted to see Lance Armstrong's shop and visit an REI store. 






I got to do them all and then some!

I also took a day to plan the next leg of my journey, first to San Antonio, then south and into Mexico 

Other than a brief intersection at Del Rio, I'm off the ACA routes from now on. By sheer luck, one of my favourite artists moved a date to Saturday in San Antonio so now I'm going down there, via New Braunfels. The ACA route goes west of Austin instead of South. Campsites are pretty rare for the next while so I'll be motelling or Airbnbing it, with the exception of Christmas where I'll be camping!!

After San Antonio I'll be mainly taking the highway to the border. It's not ideal for me, but at least there's accommodation and provisions. I have a few different options in Gizmo to take back roads if I really can't take the Highway any more.

Once into Mexico, it'll be mainly highways again, a combination of safety, provisions and a severe lack of other options. There's also a desert to negotiate! It's about 1300km to the coast and I'm hoping to make good time. From now on the days are getting longer! 

The nature of the trip is changing now, too. Up until now I have been traveling to places I wanted to visit - Charleston, Nashville, Austin. The "Devil's Backbone" road from Durango towards the coast is the last but one place I really want to see. I do have an ultimate destination in mind but I don't feel particularly enslaved by it - if something better comes along I'd like to think I can pursue that instead. 

The U.S. govt has just issued a new travel warning for Mexico too. By all accounts the Australian government travel advice is the best so I'm using that as my main influence.

Back to Austin…..
Monday night was Bob night. Small, cosy and with a band of witty musicians. Not a single song they played did I know! Bob plays a variety of genres in a variety of different bands. It was still great, though and the banter between the band mates was great.





Tuesday was walking day. I enjoy walking around a place, although most American cities aren't exactly well set up for it. 
I walked to Waterloo records on a CD pilgrimage. For more than 10 years I've been ordering a limited edition cd from this store that is issued by a local radio station. It's a collection of mainly local artists that allow live versions of their songs be used to raise money for local charities. It's a fantastic way of getting introduced to artists I'd never hear of on my usual side of the Atlantic.
This year I got to buy the latest copy in person! Of course, I've nowhere to play it!!

REI was great too - right beside Waterloo. The staff are very helpful and knowledgeable. I was on the lookout for a decent pair of trousers. My cheapy Decathlon ones are being worn out. It took me a while to find a pair that fit. As it turns out my waist is down to a size I haven't had since my twenties! 

I also picked up a new pump. My old one still works, but is erratic and I'm about to head into some more remote areas. I also picked up a simple thermometer for tracking the night temperatures. Normally I'd have used the bike computer but that died back in North Carolina.

I was hoping to see a big display of tents but it seems December is not the month for buying tents! 

I also swung by Lance's shop. Not because I'm a fan, I'm anything but. It's a trendy place to hang out, drink coffee and look cool. Needless to say I didn't quite fit in. I did buy a chain though. They don't have a lot of stuff for anything but top end bikes.





Then it was off to see Ray Wyllie Hubbard play live at the "Christmas Armadillo Extravaganza". This time I knew most of the songs, but again, the stories he told between the songs was where the value and reward was.





Wednesday was planning day with a trip to the Texas Chili Parlor for dinner. It's mentioned in a Guy Clark song and I've wanted to go for a long time. It's old, cosy, friendly, simple, and a little piece of heaven. I sat at the bar and was immediately included in the conversation by the guy on my left. The chili was like nothing I've ever had before. The beef literally melted in my mouth. It was so good I had a second bowl - the joys of cycle touring! And the margheritas were perfection in a glass.





Austin is a fast growing city. There's construction everywhere. It's reckoned more than 50,000 people are moving to Austin every year - that's 1000 per week! Like Nashville, there are a lot of homeless people. Back in North Carolina I'd seen on the news how the Governor sent the State Police in to clear out homeless people from under the overpasses. I was amused to see a sign on a large Catholic church - No Trespassing and was reminded of the fact that in Nashville a lot of Catholic Hispanics are not welcome in local Catholic churches unless they can prove their residency status. 





It is also a genuinely friendly town. Conversations are easy to have and not just with the panhandlers who try a conversation as an opening gambit to asking for money.

Architecturally, it combines the old and the new. As the State Capital of Texas it is home to the Capitol building - designed & built, so I'm told, to be larger than the one in Washington! 
I did go to go in for a wander but declined when I saw the intensive security measures - I had a tin of fuel for my stove in the backpack! God knows what the security detail would have made of that!










My first AirBnB was a positive experience. Best of all, they had a lovely big dog! Great therapy! I also used Lyft (like Uber) to get around. Handy & cheap. 

When I was checking out upcoming events it was amazing just how many artists were performing in Austin. I was spoilt for choice! Also a little sad to be leaving again so soon.

I'd definitely come back to Austin again. Perhaps the rapid growth will change the city, but there is a real "small town" vibe to the place. I found it very friendly and very easy to get around. The whole time I found myself just looking at something and saying to myself "I'm in Austin! I cycled to Austin!!".
That's a pretty good feeling! 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2019)

Day 98, Thursday, Dec 19, Austin to New Braunfels 86km

Leaving Austin was a drag. Not because of any cycling issues, simply because it was a place I could have stayed much longer in. I did try to extend my stay in the AirBnB but they had another guest arriving.

I was slow to get going, having to take bike and everything outside to load up. Each trip took me past the dog, necessitating a minute or two of playtime!

When I did get on the road it was later than I had planned, but the sun was shining and it was a glorious day.





I was basically following my route in on the way out. Hilly, yes, but pleasant riding nonetheless. As I got further out of the city I diverged onto a new route. 





On the edge of the city proper I stopped for a coffee. I didn't really want one, but it looked like there'd be few options for a while. That wasn't my smartest move.





Heading off again on a relatively quiet road I had reason to regret that last coffee. On the first hill my heart really started pumping and I felt totally drained after only a little climbing. All of a sudden it was looking like a long day.





And it was! I was really feeling poorly. I totted up my coffee intake and realised I'd had four big, big cups in the space of about 4 hours. There was a time that would barely wake me up, but these days it's just too much stimulation!





The roads were interesting, and in the main, quiet. I was going cross country on farm roads - not the most direct, but lovely to cycle along.










I came to another cemetery and wandered around. Again, a lot of people living to a ripe old age balanced by so many infant graves. Some of the sites were so old that trees grew from them. What I also found interesting was that some graves dating back to the last century had new headstones. It appears the current generation pay respect to their ancestors.

After San Marcos there was a definite change in the travelling circumstances. I was effectively running parallel to a major interstate on a busy two lane with a shoulder of varying quality and width. It seemed to be rush hour and darkness was beginning to fall. 





To be fair, immediately past San Marcos the road was fabulous and I was looking forward to the last 25km watching the sky above me - the clouds were amazing again! But my mood changed as quickly as the road surface. I'm not a fan of riding at night on a loaded bike, but I had no real alternatives. I was lit up like a Christmas tree but travelling slowly having to keep a very careful eye on the road in front of me and the cars behind me. Some of the shoulder, when it existed, was very poor, lots of holes and debris.

The only advantage of travelling in the dark was that I got to see people's Christmas decorations in their full glory! There are lots of outdoor decorations that I can see during the day, but at night they can be very pretty, sometimes spectacular.

Eventually I came to my turnoff near Gruene and negotiated the tricky junction with the help of pedestrian lights. The cycling infrastructure was there - a nice, wide, well marked lane - unfortunately it was full of sand, gravel and occasional rocks. Progress was slow while traffic was very heavy.

I finally arrived at my hotel, exhausted and drained. I unloaded the bike, loading up a trolley, locked the bike in a safe space behind reception and trundled up to my room.

I resisted the urge to lie down on my bed, instead jumping into the shower. Fresh & clean the world was a much better place!

I ordered a Lyft and got out to Gruene Hall, bought a ticket then went for some food.

Gruene is a very quaint town, especially at this time of the year. Lots of old buildings, a real taste of olden times. Gruene Hall, the oldest dance hall in Texas, hasn't changed much either! A rectangular building, entirely of wood, with panels on both sides that can be removed in summer, old sacks filled with corn positioned in the rafters for acoustics, a dance area in front of the stage, long benches further back then a bar behind that again. No draught beer here! No sound insulation either!!










I'm not sure of the ownership, but I was surprised to see Sheriff's Deputies as security - armed of course!

The main act wasn't my cup of tea. All his songs featured drinking beer (big cheers from the crowd), Texas (more big cheers) and beer again!

This was the first place I felt a little out of place. For starters I was alone while just about everybody were in groups, I was not wearing boots and my Bob Schneider T-shirt was out of place amongst the denim and check variety.

Really glad I got to visit and soak up a little of the history but I was also glad I could summon another Lyft, get back to the hotel and sleep! 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2019)

Day 99 Friday, Dec 20, New Braunfels to San Antonio 74km

Thanks to big, heavy curtains I didn't wake until 8:30 which is very late by my standards these days.

I wandered down for a good breakfast and saw the rain. Lots of it! The forecast was for rain all day, cold too, but San Antonio should be dry and warmer.

Over breakfast I mulled over my options. I couldn't check in to my AirBnB until after 5pm, so there was no big rush. I considered bringing my stuff to the lobby, catching up on this travelogue, then setting off later when, hopefully it was warmer and dryer.

In the end, that's what I decided to do, but packing up the bike first. I'm glad I did - when I went to get the bike the front wheel was flat as a pancake! Not soft, totally empty of air!

Outside, I found the culprit. A tear of about 1 cm on the sidewall and a corresponding tear in the tube.

I repaired the tube, used some old inner to boot the tyre then swapped the tyres from front to back. I'd meant to do it in Austin but didn't have the time. I also got to try my new pump! It seems to work well!





Finally, I was ready for the road. It was cold and wet and the first few kms were not pleasant, but then the road quietened and it became more pleasant. The parts of New Braunfels I skirted past looked very, very pleasant. I've been listening to the local radio station there for years over the internet. The ads are all for small, local businesses, the traffic reports are always the same and the music is great so it was very nice to cycle through here. I had considered detouring through Gruene as it looked so pretty the night before, but given the weather, I was pressing on.





I haven't mentioned it before, but it seems that this is the time of year for serious roadworks in Texas. On the way into Austin, yesterday and now today I met road closed signs and had to detour. 





Today, I was definitely feeling better despite the rain and cold. I was quickly onto sparsely travelled country roads, tacking left and right but going through nice country. It was hilly, though!










I stopped once at a supermarket / filling station when I was a bit cold. Learning my lesson from yesterday I had, for the first time in my life, knowingly taken a cup of decaf coffee! Travelling in far off places on a bike can really give us the strength to push our boundaries!!

As I was standing outside drinking my coffee (the lady yelling at me many weeks ago for wetting her floor still sits prominently in my mind) I had a wonderful experience. A young fella, no more than 8 or 9 years old, on leaving the shop with his mother, came over to me and held out his hand towards me. There was money in his hand. 
"What's this for", I asked confused by the situation.
"It's some money", he said, "for you".
Suddenly I realised what was happening. Loaded bike, me in my mismatched rain gear - he was thinking I was homeless. 
I looked to his mother for some guidance and she smiled at me indicating I should take it.

"Oh no!", I said, laughing. "I'm on my holidays! I don't look my best because it's so wet and windy. But thank you very much!".

His mother was smiling widely now, but the poor little fella was totally confused. By what, I'm not so sure, most likely the idea that cycling a bike in constant rain could be fun! 

They left, but the warm glow generated by that totally random act of generosity and kindness kept me warm for a long time.





The approach into San Antonio wasn't too bad. Cycle.travel kept me mainly in the suburbs, cycling through the wealthy part of Austin, with occasional darts along the busier roads.





The rain never let up though and it got colder as the sun dropped. Getting close to my AirBnB I changed my plans and decided on a quiet night in. I stopped for some food to fill my tank then found the AirBnB, unloaded the bike then had a hot, hot shower.

I was surprisingly tired and fell fast asleep watching the TV.


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2019)

Day 100 Austin 0km

100 days on the road and I get to see Joe Ely & Joel Guzman in a cosy little venue.

There are no words!

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Dec 2019)

Day 101 Sunday Dec 22, San Antonio to Hondo 73km

Damn but I'm tired these days! The shift to staying up late is having a real effect! And Netflix have added Frasier (& Cheers!) to their stable. Such classic tv!

I was awake at about 8:30 and slowly got moving. The day was bright & sunny, but it's always cold in the morning.

I hit the road and enjoyed quiet roads through suburbia for most of my exit from San Antonio. I stopped for breakfast at a BBQ joint and enjoyed very tasty sausage, egg, beans, potatoes and tortillas plus coffee.

Outside, a chap approached me about the bike and my trip. He was really interested and soon two of his friends got out of their car and joined in the conversation. They were captivated and I'm no shrinking violet when it comes to spinning yarns.

Turns out they were Jehovah's Witnesses! Although, I think in fairness, I was the one evangelising about the simplicity and joys of bike touring. They offered me a booklet which I accepted out of respect. They weren't pushy in the least and didn't ask to many of their probing questions as they tend to do on the doorstep.

As I was cycling along, another tourer came up behind me. Andrew is cycling from Florida to the West Coast. He wants to cycle in Europe with a friend next year and this is a shakedown ride! Across America as a shakedown ride?? That's one hell of a shakedown!
We cycled together for a while but he was staying outside San Antonio for another day so we parted ways at a major junction.

Then it was on to a 4 lane highway that thankfully had a footpath that I made efficient use of. A bit slower, for sure, especially at junctions, but infinitely safer. It's the last Sunday before Christmas and traffic is heavy!





There was a constant climb, descend, climb again rhythm but with the sun shining, a blue sky and relative safety I was happy as Larry.





Eventually, I turned off onto a link road to bring me to Highway 90. Three miles long, a bit rough but lightly trafficked. Then I was onto 90 and heading west! A decent wide shoulder on a dual carriageway. Headphones in and I rolled pleasantly along. The wind isn't the most co-operative, but it's a beautiful day for cycling. A rumble strip keeps appearing & disappearing so I monitor my mirror all the time. It's not unusual for traffic to use the shoulder as a lane and I don't want any surprises!





After Castroville there was a picnic layby so I pulled in for a rest. It was very pleasant to just sit and watch the world hurry by. I'm in no big rush, planning to stop in the next town, Hondo.





Back on the bike I was doing my best to both ignore and pay a lot of attention to the upcoming traffic. The music sure helped! I was listening to Joe who I saw last night.





At one stage last night he played a new song, Borderless love I think it was called. The chorus included the line "There's no need for a wall" which received a loud cheer, standing ovation then lots of applause. There was no doubt where the audience stood on that score. The cheering continued at every chorus. I was surprised at the reaction given the age profile of the crowd - older. 

As an aside, the two guys I was sitting beside were Dutch! Before the gig started they were chatting away probably thinking that no-one else in the room could understand them! 'Tis a small, small world!

This is hill country, rolling hill country. Constant ups and downs. The country is very open, lots of scrubland and old trees. Of course, that means the wind likes to play with me.





This far south there's a great stretch in the evenings. Sunset this evening was at 5:40 pm, compared to Tennessee where it was dark at 4:30!

While Highway riding wouldn't be my preference, today was pretty enjoyable. Blue skies and sun certainly help - especially a couple of days before Christmas!





I rolled in relatively early to my motel, the cheapest in town. The receptionist had issues finding my reservation made this morning. At first I thought that maybe I had arrived at the wrong motel, but as it turned out, dumbass made the reservation for this motel alright, but for next Sunday! 
She changed my reservation and all was good!

A shower, a bit of laundry and I was ready for dinner. There's a BBQ restaurant next door that will do nicely! I detoured via Walmart to top up my food supply for Christmas. 

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Dec 2019)

Day 102 Monday Dec 23, Hondo to Uvalde 69km

Well, I made a cockup in dates twice, yesterday! The first was the motel reservation a week out, the second thinking it was December 23, meaning today was Christmas Eve! Duh!

So instead of a massive day to get to a campground, I have a much easier day to Uvalde!

The motel doesn't do breakfast so I grabbed a coffee at a filling station next door. I've discovered bear claws! They're puff pastry, sausage roll shaped and filled with a delicious custard type filling, flavoured with almonds. Delicious!

One great thing about highway riding is that navigation is just so easy! Even I can't get lost!! Get on the highway, tuck into the shoulder and pedal!





It was just after 11 am leaving the motel. I'm in no rush and the mornings are cold. The way I see it, there'll be enough hardship down the road - no need to be killing myself now.

No camera, certainly not my cheapy Chinese android phone, can do justice to some of the vistas here. They say Montana is Big Sky Country, well, based on what I'm seeing in Texas, they must be some big skies up there!!





This is now mainly agricultural land, with occasional scrubland. Still lots of trees, though. Sometimes a single, stand-alone one, sometimes clumps of trees, huddled together that once offered shade and shelter to farmers, animals and travellers.

It might seem silly to some, but having read stories of this area, really increases the enjoyment of my travels! Just the other day cycling from Austin to San Antonio I had been reading the night before of Augustus McCrae & Call Woodward, greenhorn Texas Rangers, setting off to travel in the reverse direction. OK, they had to deal with Comanches on the warpath which thankfully I don't, but the conditions were very similar. I suppose some could see the landscape as boring and repetitive - not me!! It just adds colour to what I'm reading.

A few years ago I cycled to Spain to do the Camino de Santiago Compostela. When I got to the French / Spanish border I started reading different Camino books (Tim Moore's one is excellent). Again, it really brought so much to life. I'd often linger in the morning letting the walking pilgrims spread out, enjoy a cafe con leche and read my book. In the afternoon I'd find a shady spot and do the same. It really enhanced my trip.

Ditto for the Rhine. I got a couple of books, one about the castles and one about myths and legends of the Rhine. Fantastic material for bringing places to life!

But the best experience, without a doubt, is reading Grimm's Fairy Tales (the non-sanitised version) while touring in Germany and wandering through forests! Simply fantastic! That's also when I learned the value of a kindle - that one hardback book took up almost half a pannier!

Anyways, back to Texas. The department of Transport have very kindly put a lovely rest area in the middle of the highway where I've stopped to rest a little. There's bathrooms, water & soda machines. There's even country music in the bathrooms! Texas really isn't such a bad place at all!
*The bathrooms in the rest area. Never in my life have I ever felt the need to take a photo in a bathroom!*





Well, just after that rest stop the dual carriageway or divided highway as they call them here became a simple four laner, then I entered Uvalde county and my shoulder effectively disappeared while the speed limit increased to 75mph. I really cannot figure out the speed limits.





Rolling into Sabinal I saw a Dairy Queen and pulled in. I wasn't planning on stopping, but visiting a Dairy Queen is the very last thing on my eccentric list of things I wanted to do in the U.S. Frankly, it's disappointing - just another fast food joint.

The good thing about the impromptu stop was that I took another look at my maps and saw a backroad that would take me to Uvalde away from the highway. It looked rough to begin with but eventually was paved. Once out of the town I took my turnoff down a twisty gravel road. The first omens were good - a pick-up coming towards me pulled in and stopped to let me by. As I saluted my gratitude the driver smiled widely and tipped his hat. I continued on past little houses. Then I came to a gate and a no trespassing sign. The road continued on the other side but I wasn't going to ignore the sign in Texas!





Back on the highway the traffic wasn't so bad, but I was missing my adventure on the back road. After a few Kms I came to another turn off. I stopped, checked my maps again, saw that I could make it work, then spent about five minutes trying to safely cross the highway. Maybe I'd hit another blockage, but it was worth the risk. I had a reservation, I was under no pressure.

Once on the backroad I was on gravel, but also another little piece of cycling Heaven! Within minutes there was only the sound of birds (and the wind). It was glorious! Instead of looking at the landscape in the distance from the highway, I was now in the landscape! I was cycling past well irrigated fields, scrubland, open plains and large clumps of trees and bushes. It was simply magnificent!





In the first hour three pickups passed me. No other traffic! As silly as it sounds, breaking away from the "plan" only heightened the sense of adventure! I passed lots of cacti, saw a real live armadillo snuffling in the grass, stopped in the road and had a staring match with a young deer. What a great day!





Eventually the surface became paved, then merged with another road, but the traffic still was very light. Now was payback time though, in the form of hills! Short, steep, straight up then straight down again all the time facing a blazing sun. Still worth it though.










My cheapy Decathlon trousers finally gave up the ghost too - the crotch and ass finally giving way! At least I had some ventilation in the heat!





I rolled into town, found the motel and sat down outside to finish this off.

Tomorrow is Christmas Eve and I'm booked into a campground. I'll try to be on the road early to arrive early. I'll probably stay there for Christmas Day too, unless it's totally unsuitable and have a lazy rest day. Camping at Christmas! How exotic!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Dec 2019)

Day 103 Tuesday Dec 24, Uvalde to Brackettville 69km

You know, this Highway riding isn't really such a bad thing!





I woke up at 4:30 am - much too early to get up and get going and had trouble getting back to sleep. I eventually succeeded but then was groggy when trying to drag myself out of bed.

A coffee and decent breakfast sorted me out so I showered, packed up and rolled back onto Highway 90. Traffic was heavy in town, but once outside the road opened up and my shoulder appeared.

Just a by the by, I'm figuring out that sometimes it's better to pay the extra €5-10 for a decent breakfast option. Today I had eggs & sausage, waffles, toast, yoghurt, juice & lots of coffee. Much more relaxed than a filling station.

It was shaping up to be another warm day!






There were no reasonable backroad options today - none at least that didn't seriously increase the distance. I was a little perturbed about my reservation - I'd made it over the phone back in Austin. No payment required, no credit card details needed. It all seemed very casual - totally unlike most of my campground admin experiences here. So, getting to my destination as quickly as possible was today's goal.

It's just that speed doesn't suit me! There are lots of things to stop and savour along the way - even on the Highway!





The Highway today didn't really know what it was. It started out as a four lane divided highway, then became a two lane road and sometimes became a three lane road for some of the hills. All the time I had a shoulder, though, and the traffic was light, at least going in my direction.

I crossed a river early on that was running dry, but the remaining water had the most amazing colour!





The landscape was a lot of scrubland but at the top of some of the hills it felt like I could see for days! Again, the immensity of the landscape has to be experienced! There are ranches dotted along the side of the highway, but a lot of the land seems to be just scrubland. I can't imagine how too many cattle thrive in these conditions. I'm also unclear on why one area seems to be fertile and farmed, while the area next to it is scrubland. I've seen lots of the huge, wheeled irrigation machines - an absolute necessity in these parts, no doubt.

*Developed land surrounded by scrub*





I also passed an "Inspection Center" on the other side of the road. What exactly they were inspecting wasn't clear - it was only for east-bound traffic - but there must have been two dozen cameras of different types, heights and angles on my side of the road too. 

The wind has turned for today so I was benefitting from a lovely tailwind a lot of the time. It's a wonderful feeling to be gliding along.

Then I crossed into Kinney county and I got an early Christmas present! The road surface went from rough chip and seal to beautifully smooth tarmac. It was heaven! Now I was really flying along! If only all road surfaces were like this! 





Close to my destination I passed another layby picnic site - Texas seems really good for those.

I arrived nice and early at the Fort Clark Springs site which has my campsite. No problem getting in, cycled down to the campground where I was expected and was given the choice of pitching in the RV section or the primitive section. I took the primitive - I have the whole place to myself! Well, myself and a friendly deer!





I got the tent set up and rolled back down to the town. I got a subway (open tomorrow too!) and a Mexican beer to enjoy back at my spot.





Sitting down back at the campsite I was in my element! It was warm & sunny, I had my Kindle out, the sandwich was delicious. All was great until I tasted my beer! Flavoured with lemon (Ok!), salt (a bit weird, but Ok!) and ….. tomato!!!!

Yuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck!!! 

Tomorrow will be a rest day. I'll do a little bike maintenance and just relax. The weather is turning again though. Looks like I'll be cycling into Mexico in the rain!












If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Dec 2019)

Day 104, Wednesday December 25, Brackettville 0 km.

Well, the day didn't start as planned - there was a light drizzle falling. What happened my sunshine???

I lazed in bed, then got up and made a big pot of strong coffee. The drizzle was so light I was barely damp.

Sitting at my picnic table, drinking my coffee, reading my Kindle was still a pretty good way to be starting my day! 

Then, a golf buggy approached me and a man stepped out to talk to me.

"Uh oh", I thought, someone's checking up on me & my registration yesterday was as informal as my registration - no paper trail.

I'm glad to say I was totally wrong! Warren had come over especially to invite me to a Christmas dinner being held at the RV ground. They'd be delighted to have a foreign cyclist eat with them, no contribution necessary!

There's a genuineness to American hospitality that is very difficult to decline so I found myself happily agreeing to visit.

I then set about updating this blog and as I did so, Joe, another resident, came over to make the same invitation! I was a wanted man - in Texas!

I went over for noon and was made most welcome. Everyone was older than me, most were retirees and escaping winter in their own part of the U.S. Conversation was about my trip, well intentioned warnings about Mexico and then it drifted into all different areas. Joe was proudly wearing a Trump 2020 T-Shirt and the debate was lively but respectful - the way politics used to be. It was a very pleasant couple of hours.

Then I went back to my tent and set about doing a bit of maintenance on Roccado. The sun was out now, blazing in a beautiful, blue sky!

I was ready to change the chain, but the wear indicator told me it was still in good condition. I gave the chain a good cleaning instead. It was while cleaning my rims that I saw the bulge in the sidewall of my rear tyre. The boot wasn't doing its job so I removed the tyre, rebooted it with gorilla tape & pumped it back up. It seems to be holding better now - no bulge, at least. I'll watch it tomorrow and see how it goes. I do have a spare folding tyre that I can use, but frankly, the thread is still good for a lot more Kms. I readjusted the brakes and made a mount for the light that was donated to me at the traffic lights in Jackson on the rear of my trailer. It was while doing that I realised that the flag from my trailer was missing!!

*The bulge through the tyre*





It's possible, though highly unlikely, that it was swiped when I stopped at a store just before the campground. I take quite a few pictures of the road behind me that include the flag so I know I had it yesterday about an hour or so before I arrived. It was too late to head back out the road to look for it, so I'll pop back in the morning before I leave. From the last photo I have a good idea how far back I have to go.

*Last confirmed sighting of my flag!*





I also got to speak with the folks that I'd have been spending Christmas with under normal circumstances. Wonderful and uplifting, yet a little sad at the same time. 

Dinner was simple, chili and nacho chips and some chocolate as the sun was setting while reading my book. Simple, yet so satisfying!

On a downside, I had seen this morning on the CGOAB forums that a regular contributor may have been involved in a fatal accident in Australia. By the afternoon it had been confirmed. This news has affected me quite deeply. He was an experienced bike tourer and an Australian to boot. If it can happen to him on his home turf, it can happen to anyone. Then there is also the time of year. For his family, Christmas Day will never be the same again. 

I know that people worry about me, but I'm very lucky that while most express concern, everyone is supportive. 

A few days ago I was becoming apprehensive about Mexico. Every time I mention Mexico here the standard response is "That's so dangerous!". I suppose there is a cumulative effect (like the dogs) where the apprehension grows and grows. Yet, to date, the most dangerous experiences have been cars and dogs - sometimes a combination of the two.

Two days ago when I turned off the highway onto the backroads the spirit of adventure was pumping through my veins. 

A couple of weeks ago when I saw the Mississippi for the first time I felt like an explorer.

Stopping in the dark on the Natchez Trace to feel the inky black all around me and hear the animals scurrying hither and thither made me feel alive and fearless.

Camping at some of the amazing sites I have stayed has shown me how beautiful this planet of ours can be and just how lucky I am to visit.

The random acts of kindness from dinner today, to my welcome at the church or fire departments, to the man who gave me an extra rear light, to the little kid who wanted to give a homeless man some money at Christmas time demonstrate clearly that there are so many good people in the world.

I suppose the point I'm struggling to make is that if I gave in to my fears, I'd also be giving up on the chance to have so many wonderful experiences. 

Happy Christmas

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2019)

Day 105, Thursday December 26, Brackettville (still!) 0 km

I was awake about 6:30 am but it was a very gloomy morning and still not bright.

First step of the day was to head back the way I had come to look for my flag. I can't help but think that it's height, flexibility and brightness is a big advantage in catching people's attention.

I waited until about 8 am to head off. Straight away I was into a headwind but on the unladen bike it was no big deal.

If the flag was on the shoulder I'd see it easily enough from the other side of the road, but if it had gone into the verge that would be much harder. Add to that the verge was often a steep slope invisible from the other side. 

The traffic was relatively light but seemed to consist of drivers who had used up all their Christmas spirit! Even the cops were out pulling people. I saw them searching the SUV of an elderly couple, the man in a wheelchair, the woman in tears.

I reckoned that I'd have about 25km at a max to get to the place where the photo told me I definitely had it. There were a couple of false alarms and then I saw it in the shoulder! In perfect condition!

Whooping with joy I picked it up & cruised back to the campground. I hadn't bothered to bring Gizmo but I reckon I'd gone about 20kms. I'd also neglected to bring my wallet which meant no i.d. Today of all days, that was a disturbing thought.

On that point I have to say that I have felt pretty happy about security for most of my trip thus far. At short stops at filling stations etc I never lock the bike. I have locked it outside of Walmart simply because the car parks are so big and busy. I had no qualms leaving my gear I my tent this morning. I'm a bit of a celebrity with the folks in the RV park.

I got back to the tent and set about making breakfast. People keep coming over to talk to me! It's quite nice actually.

Over breakfast I decided that I wasn't feeling it today and decided to stay another day. The forecast is for rain, but so far it has remained dry except for a handful of drops.

I had a shower, reattached the flag to the trailer and pulled out my tablet.

An afternoon of the first season of Cheers definitely lifted the spirits!

I also wrote out some cards to send to people. I wrote to folks at home but also to places like the Fire Departments that had me to stay. I also collected my maps together and sent them to Jim at the church in Kirbyville. If anyone knows how to use them, he will.

Some "flag" pictures....















































If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (28 Dec 2019)

Day 106, Friday Dec 27, Brackettville to Del Rio 54km

I was determined to get away today! The forecasted rain never came other than a few drops. The morning was overcast & windy. I changed my usual routine and packed up before having breakfast. The tent was dry and I wanted to keep it that way.

Then it was time for coffee & porridge. Again, while eating I had visitors! 





And some human ones too, extending an invitation to stay another day and join in the Saturday breakfast! People here are genuinely kind & generous. 

Online, I booked a motel for the night. None of the campgrounds are set up for tents although some of the RV parks will take them. Given the rain forecast I chose the more comfortable option.

On the way out of town I pulled into the local bank to see if I could buy some pesos. I'd rather not cross the border without them and I'd rather not be under pressure to stop at the first atm I see.

The bank didn't have any but when I asked if she knew anywhere in Del Rio the lady called another bank and came back with a list! Such service!





Setting off I was quite relaxed. The wind was coming from the south east, I was heading due west - it would blow me along!





Traffic was relatively light, but noisy. There's no rumble strip so no music for me. The highway went from two to three to four lanes and back again. The sky was full of impending doom - in fact, it stayed impending the whole time.





About 15km out of Brackettville there was another picnic layby. I love these! A place to stop in comfort. Given that there's one about the same distance the far side of Brackettville they are great for cyclists! No water or bathrooms though 





The sky was where all the action was today. It looked angry, dark & foreboding, but the wind had me rolling along. The sun broke out once or twice and its power was clear - the temperature rose by almost 10C, dropping back when the clouds returned. 










About 20km from Del Rio the shoulder God's shine on me! The shoulder which had been chip and seal became baby smooth tarmac - just the shoulder - and I flew along even faster.











The ride into Del Rio was hassle free, if busy. I found the motel easy enough but crossing the road was too dangerous. Instead I rode past intending to use the pedestrian crossing at the next lights. In doing so, I passed one of the banks for pesos so went in. It would take twenty minutes to organise, so I went back to the motel, checked in, showered, did laundry and then picked up my pesos. Easy peasy!

Tomorrow, I'll be crossing the border and heading south - into the wind. I'll be taking a major highway (there aren't any other options). 

I was thinking today that this is actually the first "official" border crossing I'll be doing on the bike despite having cycled through 13 (I think) in Europe and crossing the Atlantic. (US immigration was just me in a big room, not unlike the airplane process). It's quite exciting!

Since I have a visa (as opposed to a waiver) I have a document to hand over to US immigration when I leave. Mexico should give me 120 days which should be enough to get me (at least) close to the border. My understanding is that if I'm under pressure I can catch a bus to the border, leave the country, then come back in for another 120 days.

This is where things start to get interesting! I'd be lying if I said I've no anxiety. Everyone tells me Mexico is dangerous. At the same time it's going to be totally different to anywhere I've been before! I'm worried too, about my total lack of Spanish. 

Oh well, I wanted an adventure!

Before I leave Texas, I have to say what a fantastic place it is!! I rode into Texas on December 08 and I'll be leaving 20 days later - and I've still only seen a tiny piece of the State! It's huge!!

I loved it, but then again I've wanted to visit for a long time.

Texans appear to be genuinely friendly, if a little direct and gruff. There's a level of respect for others on display all the time. I can't count the times someone will stand back and let me enter or exit a door first. I watched with much amusement two guys striding to the bar at Gruene Hall. Once they spotted each other they both stopped and intimated for the other to go first. Neither moved! 

Of all the States I've cycled through, Texas is certainly the proudest. The state flag is everywhere, single (lone) stars are everywhere too. People's yards are generally much better kept, houses are bigger, neater and better maintained. Of course, that may be due to where I cycled. While there are yards littered with broken down cars, they are rarer than anywhere else, although, to emphasise the scale of Texas, I did pass a yard with the remains of two airplanes in the yard!!

Another thing about Texas - they seem to love basketball! I haven't seen so many baskets rigged up in people's yards since there was a basketball boom in my hometown in the eighties!

I'd heard that Texas was horrible to ride a bike in, but that's not my interpretation. Yes, the speed limits make no sense and yes the volume of traffic can be deafening, most of the riding was fine. Of course, Austin & San Antonio appear to be outliers in Texas cities. Dallas, I believe, is one of the most bike unfriendly cities….in the world! Thanks to the fences and speed limits dogs are much less of a problem then elsewhere.

Of course, I'm also leaving the States too! I've cycled through eight states and visited two others in a car. 

It's expensive to cycle tour in! Camping is generally not cheap, food is expensive and fresh food is difficult to come by in small town USA. 

Conditions are certainly mixed. I'm really glad about the way I did this part of the trip. As opposed to following a route I was visiting places that I wanted to visit. There were times if I was just following a route I think I would have considered abandoning it. 

I encountered conditions I've never encountered before. I've never come close to running out of water in Europe, nor have I ever had to wait out a storm. But that's all part of the adventure!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

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## HobbesOnTour (29 Dec 2019)

Day 107, Saturday Dec 28, Del Rio Tx to Morelos, Mexico 115km

Cycle.Travel doesn't work in Mexico. It's a big loss because as far as I'm concerned it's the king of cycle route planners. I'll especially miss it for navigation in large cities. 

Or at least….that's what I thought until last night. Checking every last detail I looked at the cycle.travel map to get me from my motel to the border and it navigated over the border! I stretched it out and it kept plotting a route! Yaaaaay!!

It had some alternate sections than I had planned so I spent a bit of time researching shops/food/accommodation on the alternates. I actually gave serious thought to staying another day in Del Rio to do it properly but after a bit of thinking realised that it was actually anxiety that was holding me back.

It was time to pee, not stay on the pot.

I was up at 6 and popped down to the filling station for coffee. I showered, packed up and went for the motel "breakfast". Stewed coffee & bite size muffins. I did steal two bananas though for the day.

I had everything ready for leaving the States and entering Mexico. The ride to the border was easy - suburbia and backroads to the bridge over the Rio Grande / Rio Bravo depending on your persuasion. Only the weather wasn't friendly. Dark, ominous skies and a wind from the south - a strong one too!





75 cents for bike to cross the bridge. I cruised across not stopping to take a snap of the river - too nervous and besides it really didn't seem remarkable. I saw no signs of any wall. Before I knew it I was in Mexico!

I followed a pickup past a bank of cameras and then all hell broke loose! Sirens went off, lights started flashing and 4 guys with big guns approached me. The main guy was laughing & smiling and only interested in my trip! His final words to me were "Bless you", which I found surprisingly moving. Before I knew it I was out on the street cycling away…..in Mexico!!!

After about 15 minutes I saw a mobile phone shop & pulled in to get a sim card. Easy enough, if a little slow. I was really glad I did stop, because while I was waiting, I realised that ;

I hadn't exited the U.S. properly
I hadn't entered Mexico properly!
Back I went. It was too late to do anything about the U.S side of things but it was a bit tricky to get to the building to get my entry permit. Eventually I prevailed, filled in my form, paid my money and got my stamp! Now I was good to go! (Had I not done this I would have had issues leaving Mexico). I have 180 days in Mexico! The three people I dealt with were charm personified as they dealt with this Cabrón who spoke no Spanish. 

I cycled through Ciudad Acuña (again) and was soon on the main highway south. Once out of the town the highway settled down into a two lane road with a wide, smooth shoulder. For cycling it wasn't bad at all!





I passed my first security road block a little out of town. A little intimidating and a reminder that all is not well in these parts.

I had reread the travel advice for Mexico again last night. Kidnapping, robbery & worse. Local police in cahoots with the criminals. In typical Australian lyricism, when told to do something by a criminal their advice is to do as you're told or else you will be killed.

My first encounter with Mexican dogs was actually while still in the secure area before I left (the first time!). Some local dogs were running around but causing no problem. Leaving town I was chased on the main highway, but he was a barker, not a biter. A little later I approached another dog apprehensively since he was chasing every car and truck that passed. He ignored me! I didn't know whether to be happy or disappointed!

The edge of the town stretched out for a while but when the last of human settlement disappeared the scrubland desert took over. It seems more stunted than Texas, the bushes and trees that grow are definitely shorter meaning I can see further. And what views! Like Texas…..only better! 





For most of the day there were rolling hills, a constant rise and fall on roads that were unbelievably straight! I could see for miles until the road disappeared over the crest of some faraway hill. Some of the roads today were simply amazing!

It was relatively cool but then the wind started to change. It didn't swing fully around, but it became a crosswind rather than a headwind. A little later it shifted more so that it was really pushing me along. That coincided with the sun breaking out of the clouds and the temperature shooting up. Since the wind was now from the North it was definitely cooler! 





I passed through a few small settlements and villages. Nothing remarkable except for the speed bumps! Instead of actual bumps, or sleeping policemen, they use rows of metal discs that rise above the road surface, often in groups of five as on dice. Trying to weave through those was fun on a loaded bike with three wheels! There's also lines of them so passing cars hammer out a rhythm!

I got lots of beeps from horns today. If they were trying to intimidate me they all failed miserably! In fact, I'm pretty sure that every single beep was either a friendly "I'm coming up behind you" or a friendly show of encouragement. The fact that there was zero confusion in my mind got me thinking that maybe there's a difference in the tone & volume between American & Mexican cars?

In any case, I was made to feel like a part of the furniture on Mexican roads. Just about everyone was very respectful and gave lots of space when they passed. 

One thing that was a bit freaky is the tendency to drive in the shoulder, especially if slow moving. It's a bit shocking to see an 18 wheeler rolling up behind me on the shoulder! In fairness they all pulled out in good time.





There's no rumble strip here so no music for me today. I have to say though, that the shoulder that lasted as far as Zaragoza was probably the longest and most consistent in terms of width and quality of my whole trip so far! Go Mexico!

The Federal police were active on the highway too, pulling well laden pick-up trucks. Then they pulled me over too!!
All they wanted was a chat! I was so frustrated. My Spanish will either get me arrested or slapped across the face so I can't really communicate. I used Google translate on my phone to answer most of the questions. I was even asked where my wife & kids were!! The cop who asked me that looked wistful when I explained that I had neither!

On again and now I was really flying! I had no set destination for today since I had no idea how long immigration would take. It was looking like Zaragoza, about 100 km down the road.





I'm expecting to motel it for the next few nights, more for security than anything else. I may get more adventurous later, but for now, all the warnings are ringing in my ears.

Without thinking, I had told the cops I was heading to Zaragoza - immediately afterwards I was wondering if that was smart. Whenever a car or pick up pulled in ahead of me (to turn off) I was immediately scanning the road for other cars for security. I took a lot less photos today, as well, for the simple reason that I did not want to draw attention to myself nor inadvertently catch the wrong car or people in a photo. I don't like feeling this way and I hope I can put these thoughts to bed soon enough.





Having said that, lots of people waved and saluted me. I got lots of smiles. One man had a flock of about 60-80 goats grazing "the long acre" as we'd say in Ireland - the grass on the side of the road. I was particularly careful cycling past him and his animals because I didn't want to frighten them. He was very friendly and smiley.

When researching this leg of the trip I could find no records of anyone having cycled this way. People tend to either do the Baja peninsula or go down the east coast (actually it seems most go up!). Perhaps I'm an oddity in this part of the world and that's why people are so friendly.

I stopped in Zaragoza for some food from a van. Again, a very friendly man helped me with my choice and the food was delicious! His wife was the cook and she couldn't comprehend what I was doing. Their kids were mesmerized by the bike! Again, I was frustrated that I couldn't really communicate, although he spoke some English. 

I didn't fancy the look of the hotel in Zaragoza so continued on to Morelos. The motel has seen better days for sure, there's no hot water and my bedspread would kill you if you woke up looking at it suffering from a hangover, but the old man running it is a treasure. Practically no English but still made me welcome. Again, I'm frustrated at my inability to communicate.

I'm off now to wash up (in the cold water!) and then get something to eat.

For a first day in Mexico, it's been pretty damn good!



















If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2019)

Day 108, Sunday Dec 29, Morelos to Sabinas 77km

If you asked me to describe a bad day's touring I'm sure I'd mention straight roads, no place for bikes, monotonous scenery and no stopping places so it is a testament to the charm of Mexico that I had all those today and still enjoyed myself immensely!

Today wasn't going to be the longest day on record so I was slow to get up & get moving. First priority was a filling station for coffee & water for the day. 

With the coffee I bought a cheese & ham sandwich that came with chilis! Tasty!

*Mexican towns really like to announce themselves! *​





I set off just after 10 and it was already warm - low 20sC. Getting out of town was easy and soon I was on a shoulderless dual carriageway. Traffic just let me have the lane!

I passed a sign for Villa Union. That's the place where a small convoy of American Mormons were ambushed and killed by members of the Cartel a couple of months ago. I remember seeing that and my heart sinking because, to date, most of the Cartel activity was either west or east of these parts. Yes, I know that reads incredibly selfish & self absorbed.

Just before Allende I turned on to 57. Such confusion and chaos at a junction I have never seen before! There were stalls selling nuts, people hitch hiking, trucks parked facing every direction and no road markings at all!

I weaved my way along until I was on the road proper.

Again, no shoulder to talk of, but a dual carriageway so I had pretty much full use of my lane. Later the road split into the toll version and the free version. However, before that there was some kind of checkpoint and most, but not all, traffic going in my direction was joining a queue. I approached a security guard (very heavily armed) and told him where I wanted to go. He waved me on.

At the split I opted for the toll road but then saw a no cycling sign. Hmmmmm. I've read of other cyclists (in other areas) who take the toll roads - they're better quality, have shoulders and safer (in the context of crime). I stopped for a while and decided to take the "libre", non toll road.I didn't want any hassle from the police.

My choice quickly became a two lane road with no shoulder. Hmmmmm. Maybe I made the wrong choice!
*



*

Traffic was, in the main, relatively light, but there was a regular supply of trucks going in both directions. Given that the road was so narrow the only real safety issue was when passing traffic would meet in the vicinity of me! The edge of the road was treacherous, often a drop of a good 15-20 cm (sometimes more) onto a variety of surfaces. Sometimes there was a dirt road parallel to the main road which I sometimes used, but getting back onto the road was tricky.

A few cars passed a little too close for my liking, leaving it to the last minute to overtake, but the real surprise was the trucks! Without exception they used the other lane to overtake. Using my mirror I saluted when they pulled out and I reckon about two thirds of the trucks gave a toot on their horn in a friendly way! I was feeling very welcome on the road! When I saw oncoming traffic and a truck behind me I did pull off to let everyone pass safely.





In fact, today I received lots of beeps, waves, flashing lights and and salutes from drivers, pedestrians and motorcyclists! When I was passing through Nueva Rosita near the end of my cycling day, the street surface was so bad and so rough I had to take the middle of the lane just to get through. Aware that traffic was piling up behind me, I pulled over the first chance I got. I was expecting abuse and horns, instead I got waves, smiles and, best of all, parents holding little kids up so they could have a good look at the funny guy on the bike! 

And the roads!! Again, so straight, fading away in the distance! At one stage I crested a hill and saw the road rising and falling away into the distant, blue mountains. Such an exhilirating sight!

Mexico is great!











The last stretch was on a big highway that had a shoulder, although not in the best condition. I'd made a reservation on Booking.com and expected to find my hotel in the centre. Instead I cycled past it long before the centre! Confused, I stopped, checked and tried to cross the road. Once successful, I was halted by a man on the other side of the road who wanted to talk to me. His big smile meant I wasn't worried while I waited for him to cross over. He was very friendly, wanting to know about my trip. He's a bit of a mountain biker and was very complimentary about Roccado. He wanted photos so I happily posed, then presented me with an orange! To add to all the waves, beeps and smiles today I can now add a big hug!

The travel advisories don't say that!!

The hotel's very nice with a restaurant attached - a good thing since it's not in the centre! After a good shower, some laundry I had the most wonderful dinner and two beers! Thankfully a copy of the menu was in the room so I knew what I wanted when I sat down - thank you Google Translate! 

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to tackle the section that runs over the New Year celebrations. There's a bit of a desert to cross, a severe lack of stores for resupply and water not to mention accommodation. There are beauty spots and nature reserves and there are minor roads. Basically, there's a whole load of factors that I need to try to balance optimally. 

Tomorrow's another century day. When there's no cloud cover the sun gets pretty hot. The wind seems to switch around during the day, too. I was never one for hot weather but I do enjoy my sunshine on the bike so long as there's a wind to stop me overheating. 

If I was asked to sum up Mexico (I know I've only been here two days!) in one word it would be smiles. I can't recall seeing so many people smiling at me! And smiling is contagious!





If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2020)

Day 109, Monday Dec 30, Sabinas to Monclova 118 km

Dinner last night was fabulous and I had a good sleep until about 3:30 am when people arrived back into the room above me. The floors here are all tiled, I presume, for the coolness in hot weather. Unfortunately there seems to be a lack of insulation between floors so I heard every step quite loudly! 

I adapted, rolled over & went back to sleep!

I was up early enough & wandered down to the local filling station for coffee, a sandwich & some cake.

I was hitting the road just after 9 am - the morning rush hour having abated. Getting through Sabinas was easy enough since I effectively bypassed the centre. Then I was on 57 for the rest of the day. 





It's a challenge to describe cycling on these roads in any great detail since they are straight (although today did have some bends!), are passing through a desert region where the scenery varies little and there are no towns or villages to talk of. Despite that, I am loving this section! 





This desert landscape is still so new to me that it has a "whole new world" feel to it. The long, long roads disappearing over the horizon, or around a bend are inspiring to me, inviting, or challenging me, to conquer them. There's a sense of real distances being covered, almost as if I'm on a quest of some kind. 





There is no boredom since I do need to keep my wits about me. This is a dual carriageway, no shoulder, so I have to keep an eye constantly on my mirror. There's not a lot of traffic but it's interesting how many times a car overtakes another just at the place where I am on the road! The trucks are far better, giving lots of room, and again, often a toot on the horn. What's especially surprising is how many toots I get from the opposite carriageway! 

As I passed the mountains that were blue in the distance yesterday, I can see that they're actually covered in green vegetation. Ahead I can see more blue mountains that I'll be needing to traverse at some stage. They're bigger than these ones! 










I did get to see some wildlife today! Climbing slowly up a hill, I noticed movement in the long grass at the side of the road. It was a wild cat of some description! At least two to three times the size of a domestic cat, but with similar markings. I got the impression we both saw each other at the same time and gave each other a shock! Knowing nothing about what it was or it's likely reaction I pedalled on, head swiveling to make sure I wasn't attacked. 

There were very, very few places to stop along the way. There's not many rivers, hence no bridges. The bridges are great to stop at - there's normally a shoulder to keep me off the road and a crash barrier I can sit on. I did come across a little area on the opposite side of the road with a picnic table under cover, but there were two cars pulled in at the side acting a little suspiciously. I rolled on.

I did stop about lunchtime at a bridge for some cake. The temperature was rising towards 30C although the wind was keeping me cool. 





Then it was back on the bike for more of the same. Just reading that makes it sound boring - but it really isn't! I'm sure if it was raining the long roads would be brutal. But the sun is shining, the road might be numbered 57, but its name is Adventure!





I did pass a few fantastic vantage points for photos, but there was no safe space to stop. On bends, and especially in dips in the road, I have to be careful because it's easy to disappear from view. 

About 15 Kms from Monclova I came to a filling station and stopped for refreshment. I got coffee & cake from the most surly person I've encountered so far and went outside to sit on a picnic table and rest up.

The coffee was cold! Yuck! While sitting, a guy came over to talk and asked to look at my bike. It was about 30 meters away so I said no problem. Then an older man came over too. He spoke good English and was all questions about my trip, translating for the younger guy who was amazed at my bike. 

He wanted to know why I went to the places I visited, so I explained about my musical pilgrimage. Then I told him about Espinazo del diablo - The Devil's Backbone. Of course he knew about it and was very excited for me. They left me to my cold coffee wishing me well.

I was definitely feeling the distance when I set off again. Thankfully, I now had a decent shoulder for the way into Monclova, a city of over 200,000. 

The city itself was pleasant and easy enough to ride into. They did have some serious speed bumps, though, sometimes single, steep bumps, sometimes five in a row! I actually cycled past my hotel and turning around was the most difficult part. 

Hotel is modern and there was no problem taking my bike up to my room.

All day I've been pondering my options for the next leg. Today was the guts of 100km with no services. The next stage is 200km (or more depending on route). I've looked up every resource I know looking for camping spots, accommodation options and there are none. Then there's New Year and the impact that may have on the road. Possibly more drunk drivers and probably less traffic in general for help and a general sense of security. Add in the fact that this state is on the "avoid travelling to" list I have to say I'm nervous. While stopped for my cold coffee I found a cheap hotel and booked in for the New Year. I'm thinking discretion is the better part of valour in this case. 


Happy New Year!! 







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2020)

Days 110-111, Dec 31, 2019 & Jan 01, 2020, Relaxing in Monclova 0km


I decided that travelling over the holidays was too risky, especially given the next leg - crossing a desert with gaps in civilisation of about 180 - 200 km.


I basically have two choices;

One is the main road to Saltillo. This is probably the safer option in terms of lots of traffic.

The second option is Mex30, a quieter route, longer but more scenic.


I hummed & hawed. The travel advisories are to the front of my mind. "Don't drive on the highways at night!" - I'll be stealth camping at least once along the highway!


I'm not used to choosing the more trafficed road as the safe option. The Saltillo road does have one stealth spot on iOverlander, Mex30 has none. 


Feck it! This is supposed to be an adventure! I'm taking the Mex30 route!


New Year's day I had planned to explore the city. As it turned out it was windy and wet - very wet. I didn't do a lot! 


Damn Netflix! After getting excited that Cheers & Frasier had been added, I discovered they'd been dropped in Mexico!! 

Happy New Year! 

*Hobbes' first bike tour, 2014*







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2020)

Day 112, Thursday, January 02, 2020, Monclova to Cuatro Cienegas 82 km

I dislike headwinds. In fact, I despise headwinds. They ooze cruel intent to mess with my head and make me miserable. Having lived in the Netherlands I've had my fair share of headwinds. I remember one particularly cruel day cycling from near Utrecht to home and it taking all day to cover the 90 odd km. 

Well, today I met the most brutal headwind of my cycling life so far. It threw everything at me for hours and I still had a fantastic day's cycling! 

I was up early because I wanted to get some cash from the bank. I deliberately waited until today in case my card got swallowed - first time using the card in Mexico. Travel advisories stress that atm use should be in malls etc. for security. There was a bank 100 meters from the hotel.

Refused!

Using my banking app I got to talk to the folks back in NL and got the card activated for Central America. And there was me thinking Mexico was North America!!

That had slowed me down and as I was taking the bike out of my room I had another delay- a soft rear wheel. I really wanted to get going so pumped it up and brought everything down to the lobby. I took my time loading up, checked the tyre - holding well - so I set off on my first day adventuring of the new decade!

Leaving town was easy enough & traffic was light. Monclova is a remarkably clean town. The pavements might be broken and the edges of the road potholed, some buildings might be in a state of disrepair, others held together with nothing but prayers, but there is no litter! A shame the same attitude doesn't extend to the highway.

As I left town I looked south and could see dark clouds and rain falling in the area that I could have been cycling. Oh, how I laughed! 

The plan was simple - head north to San Buenaventura, then west to Cuatro Cienegas. About 80km. There was a bit of climbing and I was expecting a bit of wind.

The road to San Buenaventura was an ok four lane, although shoulder less. Traffic in my direction was light and I had no problems taking the lane.






I turned west in San Buenaventura and my first reaction was to stop for coffee! I was going to need all the stimulation I could get! The wind was coming head on or slightly diagonal, but sometimes, just for fun, it gusted from the side trying to blow me off the road. Thankfully, I now had a lovely shoulder that meant I could wobble safely! At least the wind had blown all the grey clouds away and now the sun was blazing!





In fact, with such a strong wind the sky was where all the action was! For the rest of the day I was treated to a light show that would put any firework display in the ha'penny place! In the sky, the sun blazed from a blue background, then lit up clouds in the most magnificent way when they ventured in front of it. On the ground, the slopes of mountains were light blue, then dark blue, then grey, or green or sandy coloured depending on the distance and the cloud cover. 










I made reasonably steady progress towards the mountains in front of me and entered a valley with mountains on both sides. Of course, these had the effect of channeling the wind even better! A few gusts brought me to a complete stop! However, if ever there was a place to be stopped, it's along this section of Mex30! I'd pedal for a while, a gust would stop me and I'd stand, straddling the bike, in awe of what Mother Nature was throwing together for me. 










The only problem as I progressed slowly along this windy valley was that I could see dark clouds bearing down on me. As they got closer I could see sheets of rain falling from them. A race was on! 





I admire my optimism in these cases! I was barely able to hit 10kmh and I thought I could beat the weather! There were a few drops - big and wet that had me pulling over to cover my bar bag and to don a jacket. But that was all. Or so I thought. Ten minutes later, the heavens didn't open, but it's fair to say a crack appeared. That crack was enough to soak me with about three or four dozen drops. It was a bit like a scene from a movie - it seemed like I was hit with large calibre rain drops in slow motion, each one spreading on impact and soaking an area far larger than its size. In no time at all my shorts gave all the impression of having gone for a swim!

In ten minutes the rain had passed and now the sun was drying me! 

Of course, as I was going through this valley I was also climbing steadily. Crossing a railway track I left the valley behind and entered onto a wide open plateau. If I thought the wind was strong before I was rapidly educated on the effect a wide open plain has on wind! 

It was so strong I actually walked for a while - walking was faster! I was about 25km from my destination yet it was still hours away! 

The sky was fantastic though! 





I stopped three times to eat something on that last leg. I could feel my energy dropping, but not my enthusiasm. I was rolling along at about 8kmh, 10 if I was lucky! 

Approaching Cuatro Cienegas I was begining to feel under a bit of pressure. It was getting late and although sunset isn't until about 7pm I'm in the mountains and they block out the light as the sun falls. I was heading for a campground that I had no idea was open so I wanted to get there as soon as possible.

I missed my turn in the pretty little town and had to double back. I eventually got on the right road and cycled a good way out of town, finding the campground. A little old lady made me very welcome. It's basic, the bathrooms won't win any awards, but I got the tent set up, nearly missed the sky changing colour, had some food and got to the tent before the rain started.










To say I'm exhausted would be the understatement of the year - and we're only two days in! Today was exhausting, but so, so beautiful. The sky, the light on the mountains,even the rain, were just out of this world - or perhaps a better way of putting it - a reminder that I'm in a whole new world!

Once again today, people were very friendly, asking questions, wishing me well. I'm so frustrated that I cannot communicate better. Can't wait to get some proper Spanish under my belt. There just aren't enough words in English to describe days like today!

I had to pump the rear tyre three times today do that needs attention. Given the darkness & rain I've left that for the morning.

I'm not even thinking about tomorrow. It's 180 km to the next town. Nothing in between. If the wind is like today that could take three days!!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2020)

Day 112 - some extra sky pics!
(Apologies, Mods 😀)


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2020)

Day 113, Friday, January 03, 2020, Cuatro Cienegas to Stealth camp 155km marker Mex 30 77 km

I sleep better, and longer in the tent, I think. A few pages of my book and I was out like a light. The wind and the rain were like a lullaby to me!

I was awake after sunup and savoured the warmth of my sleeping bag for an extra few minutes. Then it was up and time to get puncture fixing! 

The wheel was totally flat this time, so no cheating today! I got the tyre off and quickly located the hole. This was a new puncture, nothing to do with the tear in the sidewall. (That's growing slowly). I patched the tube and checked the tyre. There was a 1,5 cm gash in the tyre at the puncture point but nothing remained. I booted that too!

Low on water I skipped breakfast planning to get it in town.

I set off and was blown into town - the wind was going to be an important factor again! 





I found a little store and stocked up on water. I've 3 liters between my two big bottles, 750 mls in my dog deterrent bottle, 3 liters in a camelback on my back and 2 more liters in a bladder in a pannier.

Breakfast was a coffee from the store and tacos from Ismael, a street vendor. Delicious! If a little spicy.

*A rare photo of the Three Amigos - Hobbes, Roccado & your narrator.*





I was sitting in the village's plaza, directly opposite the old church - a delightful building, although very simple & modest inside.





All the little villages I have passed through have some kind of a public park. These are always neat, clean and full of seats. The furniture might be very old, but it is well cared for. There seems to be a strong sense of civic mindedness amongst the citizens. In one little village yesterday, the local park had been decked out for Christmas. No fancy lights or expensive ornaments. The highlight for me was a Christmas tree made from tyres! The biggest on the bottom, a slightly smaller one in top and so on….all painted green! 





By the time I was leaving town it was after 11am, hardly the ideal time to be setting out to cross a desert!

Once out of the village the road settled down into a good quality two lane with a wonderfully wide shoulder. Perfect riding conditions - except for the wind! 

Unlike yesterday, the sky was mainly empty of clouds and, at the start, at least, the mountains were in the distance.

To be honest it's difficult to describe today's cycling. It wasn't boring, that's for certain, but very little happened and very little changed. Traffic was very light in my direction, I had lots of room. There were few places to stop. It was a case of cycling along on good surfaces through country, though interesting, was very similar.















At least that was the case until later in the afternoon after a bit of climbing when I came across green fields in the middle of the desert! Now that was a surprise!

If you look at this section of Mex 30 (about 130km along) on Google satellite view you'll see big circles. Today, I figured out what they are!! Irrigation machines that rotate, forming a circle of watered land! It was really interesting to see the fertile curves surrounded by bone dry soil. Unfortunately, this sight was accompanied by a dead straight road facing directly into the wind! Most definitely my least favourite straight section thus far. I thought it would never end!!





I had set off without a destination in mind. I just wanted to get as many Kms under my belt as possible to make the next town reachable tomorrow. I knew I'd have to stealth camp but it was pretty clear that my options were limited. Other than the fertile area, everything was scrub with no cover or a mountain! There were frequent culverts under the road, though. They were looking like an answer to my problem.

Despite the fact that the sun was hardly obstructed by clouds it was never terribly warm thanks to the brutal wind. Unfortunately, there was no respite from the sun. About 3:30 pm I felt the onset of a headache and also noticed that I was finding it harder to concentrate. Ideally, I'd pull off into some shade and rest up, but there was no shade!

*Anyone see a nice place to pitch a tent??*





From 5pm I began looking earnestly for a culvert. I found one after a bend which meant the wind wouldn't be barreling through it. I cycled slowly until the road was clear then made a dash for it. Once down I'm hidden from the road. It's a little over a meter tall, so too low for my tent. I'll be sleeping al fresco tonight!

*Mi casa*





I had food - tuna wraps, Nutella wraps and some nuts. I made some lemon & ginger tea. Once this is finished, it's into the sleeping bag for me. Here's hoping there's no creepy crawlies!!




If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jan 2020)

Day 114, Saturday, January 04, 2020, Stealth camp 155km marker Mex 30 to San Pedro 111km

For years I've been reading blogs, mainly on CGOAB, of epic bike tours, and sometimes not so epic. Many have included nights spent in culverts and after last night I have joined that group!

It's really not so bad!! Maybe I was lucky - my culvert was rather clean and relatively smooth. It was located just before a bend so the chances of traffic stopping was virtually nil. Because it was so low I set out my sleeping pad near enough to one end. The result was that I got to see the stars in all their glory when I lay down. It was a pretty cool spot!

I was disturbed at some stage by what I think was a half bark. A wild dog, or even a pack of wild dogs would not be fun. I lay still, hearing nothing. Then I switched on my head torch to light up outside, thinking that might blind and scare anything away. Ha! I only succeeded in blinding myself! All remained quiet, then a little later I heard the half bark again, but further away. I rolled over and went back to sleep.

The morning was cold! I cursed myself for my organisation the night before. Had I been smarter I could have had breakfast in bed! As it was, I crawled around and had Nutella wraps and a coffee. Outside I was surprised to see a decent coating of frost on the panniers. 

I packed up and hit the road, gizmo reading 5C. At that time of the morning and at that temperature the wind was barely a factor. I was soon rolling along enjoying the coolness. The long, straight road to the mountains wasn't as opressive without a headwind.
_*My morning view - pre-coffee hence the artistic angle*_





Again, most of the traffic was coming against me so the cycling was relaxed, pleasant and meditative. 





The mountains changed colour as I got closer. Strangely, as the temperature rose I felt cooler - the wind was rising too and it was nippy!

About 10:30 I came to a roadside
restaurant and stopped for some food and a chance to top up my water. An unexpected surprise, gratefully accepted!

Now, when I say restaurant, it wasn't a restaurant in the European sense, but the food was simple, wholesome and tasty!

Back on the road I was powering along with my unexpected fuel. Everything was going swimmingly until it wasn't! Up ahead I could see a turn into the mountains. I knew there was a bit of climbing to do and had expected to have already started. It looked like the climbing would start after that bend. I reckoned it was 10-15 minutes away and felt good, ready for the climb. But here's the thing with long straight roads - distances are deceptive! It was a good 90 minutes before I made it to that bend. 90 minutes of me telling myself "just 10 minutes more!". By the time I arrived I had psyched myself out and was exhausted. Worst of all, there was no place to take a break out of the sun.
*The Cursed Bend!*





I rounded that cursed bend and the climbing began - into the wind. It was brutal and savage. The ascent wasn't steep, but the wind added to the gradient. When there was a bit of descent I had to work just as hard, again thanks to the wind. 

Seeing a crash barrier that was so high it cast a shadow I pulled up & rested in the shade. 

Setting off again I had real doubts that I would make it to civilisation today. 










In fairness, there wasn't a huge amount of climbing and sooner than expected I reached an open plateau and thankfully, turned out of the worst of the wind.

However, I do need to go back to before that horrible bend. As I was labouring along a car pulled up opposite me and the lady driver started talking to me. Frustrated at my lack of comprehension of her Spanish she did a U-turn and pulled up beside me. Her daughter was in the passenger seat, two more kids and at least one dog in the back seat and she wanted to give me a tow! I think she was trying to tell me that there were big hills around the bend. All I had to do was hang on to the door and she'd pull me along!

Now, I've never been pulled by a car and I sure wasn't about to start on Mex 30, going up hills being pulled by a woman with whom I could not communicate!

None of them in the car quite understood my reluctance but when it was clear that I was grateful, but I was happy to cycle on, everyone rummaged in the car until a half drunk bottle of coke was thrust at me! Again, I declined, trying my best to show my gratitude. What wonderful people!

Back on the plain I started to fly along - at least flying by my standards. I noticed a wobble at the rear of the bike & thinking the trailer might be a bit soft pulled in. Nope! Rear wheel soft again! I pumped it up and set off again. The wind seemed to have died down and I was making great progress for an hour. Then the wind picked up again and I wasn't making such great progress.





From one moment to the next it seemed like my belly fell out of me and I was suddenly ravenously hungry. I stopped and tore into some jerky eating like a man possessed!

Once I got going again a car pulled up beside me and indicated I should stop. Two guys in the front seats I was a little nervous, but there was regular traffic. 

My nerves weren't helped when the driver went to the boot and took something out.

Edgar was getting me a jar of honey, for energy for my trip! He'd seen me a few days ago on the road to Sabinas and was genuinely delighted to be able to stop and talk to me. His co-pilot, Xavier handed me a liter of ice cold water which lasted about 5 seconds! Photos were taken, Facebook connections made and once again I was blown away by the welcome, the kindness and the generosity of people!

A weird thing from today and I suppose, an indication of how our minds work and are influenced by our senses. During the climbing, through an arid, bone dry landscape, I was passed by a couple of trucks carrying silage. It took me a moment to place the pungent, slightly acidic aroma that filled my nostrils but when I did I was transported back in time more than 30 years to a time in my childhood when I'd visit the farm of an old friend. That self same smell was ever present, or so it seemed. So from a Mexican desert to an Irish Midlands farm in seconds! Now that's travelling!

When I did finally get away I was so pumped up I was flying again! About 10km from San Pedro I finally had a decent data signal but neither booking.com nor Expedia had a listing. I picked a hotel at random from Google maps and rode on.

Approaching town a pickup slowed down beside me and the lady passenger offered me an apple as her husband shouted questions at me! 

On the edge of town I stopped at an Oxxo store. I deserved a coke! The ladies working there were all questions and before I got to leave another woman came over from a car wanting a selfie with the bike. She sulked until I got in too!

I found the hotel easily enough and got a room. Had a long shower, did my shower foot stomping laundry and hit their restaurant for food. I was exhausted but the food was delicious. Simple, but very tasty.

My first desert crossing is complete!





















I was nervous about that, and it was certainly very tough, especially parts of today. But the social encounters, the openness of people are just so uplifting!




If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jan 2020)

Day 115, Sunday, January 05, 2020, San Pedro to the edge of Torreon 78km

I should have known better than to have two cups of coffee with my dinner last night. I got to sleep ok, but was wide awake after only three hours! 

Oh well, it gave me time to plan a route for the next day. Perhaps it was the caffeine surging through me, but I decided to dust off my cojones and take some backroads! 

I did fall back to sleep about 6am and slept until 9. I went to an Oxxo up the road for coffee and set about my rear wheel. Now, with access to water I could see a slow leak just outside my patch. I didn't think I had misplaced the patch so removed it and had proof that there were indeed two holes along the seam. I repatched to cover both holes, checked the tyre thoroughly and reassembled the bike. 

I also spent a bit of time checking out accommodation options, finally settling on a hotel between Matamoros & Torreon. It wasn't because of its location or features - it was the cheapest!

All the fustering about meant that it was noon before I left the hotel. I had a serious argument with myself over staying for another night. It was cheap and very nice but travelling me beat lazy me!

Mexican towns & cities (at least so far) use one way systems which takes some of the stress out of negotiating them. The general road conditions can be dire, though, and the sheer destructive force of the speed bumps should not be underestimated!

I was soon out in the country where the view was similar to previous days, but the road was smaller and narrower. Traffic was fine, passing me with a wide sweep and if anyone thought it strange to be biking along there, there were no indications of it.





I turned onto a smaller road that seemed to be just dried mud and stone, following an irrigation canal - bone dry of course!

The views were spectacular as I bounced along, waving to the handful of men out walking their flocks of goats. 





The road changed to gravel and I cycled through a couple of small settlements. The road surfaces in these places can be incredibly bad with big holes and cracks. There was certainly less engagement as I cycled through these places. I was more likely to receive a sullen stare than a wave or a smile.





Bouncing along this rough road I began to regret my caffeine infused decision. I wasn't afraid although I was aware that I was literally in the middle of nowhere, it was simply that my recently dusted off cojones we're taking a hammering on the rough roads! When I came to a paved road crossing I took the opportunity to check my maps and saw that I could take this to the highway, then zip down the highway and rejoin my adventure route further down the road where, hopefully, the surface would be kinder.

*Not cycling through the desert.....cycling in the desert!*





So I did….and it was! Back on Mex 30, old friends reunited, although, like my cojones, Mex 30 was battered today. As I cycled happily along in the rough shoulder I started to feel the now familiar softness from the rear. The tyre was going down…...again! I won't quote my language verbatim, but it was loud, frustrated, contained some Spanish and was, if I do so myself, surprisingly creative!





Taking advantage of a crash barrier before I left the highway & crossed back onto the backroads I stopped to pump up the wheel. Once stopped I could feel the full force of the sun. Hot work! Octavia hailed me from the other side of the road, came over & offered me a lift to Torreon! I told him I'd be fine, but he wanted to give me his number in case I had any problems. So far as I know my sim is data only (what good is voice in Mexico when I don't speak nor understand Spanish?) so we connected on Facebook instead.

I'm not a fan of Facebook but it's certainly handy!

(When I arrived at my hotel I had a friend request from Octavia and immediately afterwards a message offering any assistance!)

On the road I was zipping along! This was an agricultural area, well irrigated and developed. I immediately felt better. I know (some) farmers - they're all, at least, a little crazy, have a tendency to drive too fast but they don't go around kidnapping foreigners! 

What was interesting was that the mountains I've been seeing for the past few days looked different when rising out of a lush, green landscape compared to sand and scrub.










I'd pass through a little village and the road would disappear, replaced by huge and varied potholes. Actually, think craters! Louisiana has met its match in terms of road surfaces! Outside each of these villages, normally at the first bend in the road, would be the local dump. 

The roads could be lethal at times with huge craters and cracks. In the distance oncoming traffic was weaving left and right. It was not an unusual sight for cars to be driving on the wrong side of the road.

*The last stretch - the shoulder was fun! *





By now it was heading on for 5 pm but I was relaxed as my hotel was close at hand. Joining the main road between Matamoros and Torreon I saw my first bicycle path in Mexico and pulled in to the first Oxxo I saw for a coffee. Since I was close to my hotel I tried to buy a beer for consumption on arrival. Alas! It was not to be! I'm thinking alcohol sales are banned on Sundays! 

Having grown up in Ireland I'm not in a position to complain about such things. I usually appreciate these quirks from one place to the next - although it may take a period of adjustment! 

At this point I did a very silly thing. No, I did a totally, dumb thing. 

At a distance of 2,4 km from my hotel I used Google Maps to navigate.

Google maps has many great features and I use it regularly - but never to navigate on a bicycle. In my defence I was very tired and very, very hungry.

I crossed the road by going over a high walkway only to be led to a dump. I did attempt to go through but turned back after rounding a corner and finding myself in an area that would feature in no tourist guide. My gut was screaming at me to get away so I did. I crossed back over the main road.





I went further down the road and crossed again (another walkway) only to be met by a gate.

I walked back and took a road and ended up in what could only be described as slums - of course, now in the dark.

I actually cycled past the hotel since it was in a walled compound. I banged on the big metal gate & was admitted. Don't let the "walled compound" bit fool you - this is no fancy resort - I can rent the room by the hour here!

They tried to overcharge me on check in - I had a confirmed price from Booking.com. After much waiting I paid my fee and settled in. Then the boss came showing me something else about commission. I had no choice really than to pay the extra (about €3), but the principle bugged me. Probably no comeback from Booking.com since I paid in cash - I wasn't giving them my credit card!

Of course there were no good options and I didn't fancy going out in the dark searching for food. I sat down and ate a hearty meal of jerky, crackers and some nuts. Then I set about my rear wheel.

The good news is that this was a whole new puncture! A tiny sliver of wire penetrated the tyre. Once removed, I replaced the tube altogether. I'm running low on patches so thought I'd save them. I have a spare folding tyre, a Schwalbe, that I'd rather keep for the more remote areas. This tyre should get me to Mazatlãn, at least.

Once that was done, it was time for bed. The room was bitterly cold by now. It doesn't have any glass in the window - only a wire mesh. The TV remote is covered in plastic. It's that kind of place! I slept in my night clothes on the bed (not in it!) using my sleeping bag as a quilt.

All in all, it was an unpleasant way to end the day. The rough roads early on weren't the best for cycling, but great for a sense of adventure! The kindness of Octavio again highlighted what great people there are around and, probably more importantly, who are willing to break the ice, so to speak. The experience with the hotel and Google maps was a lesson in false economy and possibly rushing the choice of accommodation. On a positive note it made for a great night's sleep! - once Lazy me stopped his crowing!







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Jan 2020)

Day 116, Monday, January 06, 2020, edge of Torreon to Nazareno 37km

I was awake well before sunrise and whoah! it was cold!!

Since I was going to be on a main road & going through the city I didn't feel obliged to be starting too early.

I got up, packed, dropped off my key and was let out through the big steel gate. Quite literally the first thing I had to deal with was a pack of dogs, or more correctly, three packs of dogs on the street outside. One directly outside the gate, one half way up the street and the last at the top of the street. There was lots of barking, less chasing and zero threat, really. One dog was proudly carrying a dead bird so that seemed to be a distraction!

I hopped into the main road into Torreon and followed that as far as was safe, then moved onto a parallel road. Traffic was heavy, but respectful in the main, although the side of the road needed constant attention due to debris and potholes.

I stopped for breakfast at a 7-11 and continued on directly into the city centre. It was surprisingly straightforward. Plaza Mayor was beautiful in the sun. I'd have stopped only there was nowhere I saw for coffee. Besides, I had a long day ahead of me.

My target for the day was Cuencame, about 120km away and a lot higher than I already was! According to all my apps there were no hotels or campgrounds between Torreon and there. I could have stayed in Torreon but that would have been a 10km day and leaving me with a toughie tomorrow. My hope was that Nazareno would have accommodation options not listed in any app. The truth is that I was feeling rather tired and a 120km day, steadily uphill under a hot sun was going to be putting me under pressure.

Within two streets of the luxury of the Plaza Mayor I was on the "other" side of town. It was the same in the U.S. from wealth to poverty in two blocks.

I passed through the less salubrious parts of the city, heading for the hills.

Realising I was on the edge of civilisation I stopped at a little store for water, some pastries and a Coke. The lady was very nice & friendly and invited me to sit in an area where her little daughter was sitting, playing. I ate my food, drank my Coke watching the TV coverage of the Three Kings - a big part of Christmas in the Spanish speaking world.

Onwards again and I met the first wave of a very heavy paramilitary presence. There was a roadblock but I was waved on.

I was now heading into the mountains, but the view was definitely spoiled by a huge dump on one side of the road. Leaving that behind the road settled into a shoulderless two lane with relatively light traffic. The only issue I'd have is when I was on the same section of road as two passing cars.





In a relatively short time the temperature had gone from 5C to 22C and I could feel the sun. The wind was hardly present at all.

It wasn't too long before the serious climbing began and in a country where the road planners seem to have a cavalier attitude to safety, the road separated for the climb, oncoming traffic on a completely different road! I was glad of the extra space as progress was slow and wavey. I was soon in my granny gear and heating up fast. The countryside, however, was compensating in style.










At the top of the climb two things happened - the separate roads merged and the wind hit me with a vengeance! I had a sharp descent then a straight road off into the distance.





I flew down and attempted to keep my speed up but the wind eventually wore me down. After stopping to take photo I never recovered my previous momentum.





This was, by now, familiar territory to me, with mountains, scrubland and a long straight road.

How cool is that? This dry, mountainous area of Mexico is now familiar to me!!

I pedalled along, humming away to myself, watching my mirror and just enjoying the moment. The wind was keeping me cool and I could drink my water with wild abandon knowing that there were lots of stores along the way.

I passed through a little town and continued on. Coming to Nazareno I kept my eyes peeled for anything resembling a hotel. I stopped at the local Oxxo for a cold drink and got talking to a man who spoke very good English. He mistook me for an American and when I replied that I was from Ireland he said he knew it well, then complimented me on my English! Then he wanted 10 pesos "for something" which led to him disappearing into the store as soon as he got it.

I cycled on out of town and then I saw it! A hotel!! I pulled in and an old man was sweeping the courtyard. I got a room for a decent price and plonked myself down in the cool courtyard to just relax.

A little later, I hopped on the bike & went back to town to buy some beer and some food from a street vendor. I also found a bike shop and bought some more patches - just in case! I had considered hitting a supermarket and cooking something on the trangia, but I was feeling too lazy!

Back at the hotel I had a wonderful, lazy afternoon updating this, eating some roasted meat and drinking beer! It's a tough life!

My plan is just relax and take it easy. There's a TV in the room but it doesn't work, but I do have a good shower!

*This little guy lives outside my room!*







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2020)

Day 117, Tuesday, January 07, 2020, Nazareno to Cuencamé 89km

It's funny how things work out. A couple of days ago, in a caffeine induced fit of bravery, I decided to tackle some backroads. Today, in the middle of nowhere I was faced with no realistic option but to take the king of backroads! Had I not had the experience (and the resulting diminished anxiety) of the other day I would have been rightly fecked today! But that's a little later in today's tale from the road.

I slept very well and slowly got myself organised. It's amazing how the contents of my panniers can explode in a confined space!

I raided the local Oxxo for breakfast and witnessed the collection of money from the store. It involved at least three guys, all armed, one with a pump action shotgun. Another reminder that all is not well in these parts.

I set off again on the two lane enjoying the cool morning. It's that wonderful time when it's still cold in the shade, but pleasant in the sun. Traffic was still light and all was good in my world.










My first climb of the day was not too far away, pleasant but demanding. Then a drop on the other side and a straight road disappearing in the distance. These straight roads just seem so appropriate, somehow, in this landscape.





I pedalled on enjoying the silence between cars. Really, it was just the wind in my ears and the sound of my drivetrain running. At least until I started to sing!

I passed a couple of small settlements and then, in the middle of nowhere I had a choice to make. According to all maps the "main" road veered right and a minor road ran straight on, eventually turning east. The only problem was that the minor road was the road I was on and the "main" road was full of rocks!! 

The only traffic to pass me was a man with a donkey & cart - he took the minor road. I checked all my maps and the road running east was no good for me at all. I could take the Rocky road or turn back.

Just then a truck slowed down and took the Rocky road. "Feck it", says I, "I'm going that way too!"

It wasn't easy. It wasn't comfortable. It certainly wasn't fast. But it was a lot of fun!! The surface was abominable! Sometimes it would smooth out for maybe 20 or 30 meters but then it was back to rocky & lumpy. Sections were pure washboard, bouncing me up and down. But this was adventure! 





Two pickups passed me from the other direction and two from my own in the two hours I was bouncing along. I saw some kind of a wild animal, not big, but with massive ears standing straight on its head. No! It wasn't a rabbit!





The landscape was pure desert, sometimes flat & sandy, sometimes covered in scrub. At one stage I did come across a handful of scrawny cattle foraging along the road. God help them but there was very little to eat.





There was a little climbing in there too, but I hardly noticed really, just trying to find the smoothest line along the road.

When I finally made it to the main road I was delighted with myself! It was tough going, but great fun.

Mex 40 was a two lane shoulderless road, fairly heavily populated with big trucks. In the main they gave me lots of room but when two vehicles were coming in opposite directions with me in the middle it wasn't a lot of fun.

Adding to the fun was the fact that the road surface had been laid directly on top of the previous road. There was ample evidence of this at the edge where "my" road surface had broken away and I could see the white line of the "old" surface underneath. In practise, this meant that there was a drop of at least 15-20cm from the side of the road onto whatever happened to be there - sand, scrub, gravel or rocks.

Seeing a roadside restaurant at a small settlement I pulled in for some food.

The food was simple, but great. Tacos with refried beans & beef. The cold coke to wash them down was also good. Since I had joined Mex 40 I was aware that 40D, the toll road was running almost parallel. That, at least, would have a shoulder. Looking at my maps I could see that not too far away there was a slip road joining the toll road - but going in the wrong direction, towards Torreon. Thinking this was strange and noticing the large number of trucks on my road I decided to investigate. There was indeed a slip road like the maps said, but also a slip road off the toll road too. By taking that I could get on the correct side of the road. So I did! It wasn't easy - they actually had two sets of spikes across the road that flipped up if a car crossed in the wrong direction! I also passed a no cycling sign! Apparently, I wasn't the only one with this idea! 

I know it sounds dangerous to cycle the wrong way up a slip road onto a motorway but it really wasn't that bad. Visibility was excellent and there was very light traffic. Riding on these toll roads in Mexico is very common according to the blogs I've read.

Once on the road I understood why. It was wonderful cycling! I had a shoulder to myself, traffic was light and respectful, the trucks especially, often pulling into the outer lane to give me maximum space. I got lots of beeps and waves, sometimes from the other side. I could relax and just admire the view. There were even places to stop! Regular lay-bys with bins and containers of water - for engines, not people. I had not a single negative reaction from anyone on the road.





There was regular climbing, then descending, although I was getting higher the further I went. Having the shoulder was great for the climbing. I was about half way to Cuencamé, most on the toll road. I flew along. Coming to the toll booth and exit I pulled into the filling station for a coffee. 










Approaching the toll booth I was a little nervous as an older man with a walkie talkie signalled me to stop. He wanted me off the road, onto some grass beside the booth, even helping me to lift the bike over the kerb. Once past the booth I could get back on the road. I'm guessing there's a sensor or similar counting vehicles. My first trip on the toll road was a roaring success! 

I immediately missed the road when I saw what was in front of me! A two laner, with a shoulder, that looked like it had been dug up, ploughed, and glued back together by a bunch of anti-car activists! It was brutal! The road was so bad a lot of cars and trucks drove in the shoulder or on the wrong side of the road! There was more climbing too! I was back to bumping along. Then about 15kms from the end the surface improved and I flew into Cuencamé. I passed one of the hotels on the edge of town and located another on the main Street. 





After a shower I wandered down the street to a simple restaurant for dinner. A powercut made it more interesting! After dinner I took a walk around the little town. I don't know if it was a late opening night but a lot of the shops were open. It was really nice to wander around. Not for the first time I regretted my lack of Spanish.

I'm about 150km from Durango with a fair bit of climbing thrown in. I'll break that down to two days rather than push it and arrive in the dark in a big city. I might take an extra day in Durango city before tackling the next thing on my list - The Devil's Backbone!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2020)

Day 118, Wednesday, January 08, 2020, Cuencamé to Guadalupe Victoria 68km

Since I'd decided to take two days to cover the 150km odd to Durango I was expecting a nice, relaxed day today. 

Ha! Cabrón!

I would have liked to give Durango a shot in one go if I could go the whole way on the toll road. As things stood, though, I either had to go back to where I got off it yesterday, or cycle on another 25km until I could rejoin it. Once on it, there were no services or accommodation until the edge of Durango if things went pear shaped.

In keeping with the theme of a relaxed day I stopped for a wonderful breakfast of yoghurt, fruit & granola with an omelette of chorizo, ham & cheese. Believe it or not, these were served with tortilla chips and two dips - one mild and one fire! For breakfast!! 

I think it was almost 10 am when I was hitting the road. A relaxed day, right?

The road split at Cuencamé, me staying on 40 and 47 heading away. I was hoping that the split in roads would split the traffic and it seemed like I was right - leaving Cuencamé I had the road pretty much to myself. 





Now, in this case, "road" is a very generous description! "A collection of cracks, potholes and lumps held together with various bonding materials" would be a far more accurate. For the first couple of kms I was bouncing around like I had yesterday then the road settled down into something more normal.

It was pretty cold this morning but it wasn't long until that wasn't an issue. In the first 5.5km I climbed 500 meters! That's a good way to get warmed up, although I nearly cried when I immediately lost most of that gain. To add insult to injury I got the full force of a fairly strong wind on the way down and the long, straight road fading away in the distance faced right into that self same wind!





All of a sudden my relaxing day was being, quite literally, blown away!

Traffic was relatively light in my direction. It seemed most traffic was heading north. As is becoming usual, the truckers were the friendliest of all, giving lots of space, tooting horns & waving. There's something uplifting during a long, hard ascent when an arm comes out a window to wave vigorously at you. A glance at the windscreen rewards you with a smiling face. 

In my back pocket I had the option of joining the toll road at Yerbanis. This would mean overshooting my planned stop and having to double back - longer for sure, but probably easier.

I'd expected to reach Yerbanis in about 90 minutes but it was more like 2,5 hours. I stopped to get a cold drink and rest for a few minutes. I was happy enough with the traffic level and the surface seemed ok so I decided to stay on the road I was on. Taking the toll road was another 30km added on to my daily distance.

What followed was a series of dips - steep drops down followed immediately by corresponding climbs with no real altitude gain. Darn! Darn! Darn!





These were energy sapping due to having to battle the wind on the way down and soul sapping due to achieving nothing! 






I passed a few small villages & stopped in each one for a few minutes just to rest. It was very hard work.





With about 25km to go, I got hit with a triple whammy - the sun that had been behind cloud for most of the day broke out sending the temperature up, while the traffic level increased and finally there was a marked change in tone of the traffic.

That started leaving the last village when someone screamed at me from a van - that's the first hostility I've suffered in Mexico! It continued with the most close passes since the States. I don't know if it was because it was getting late in the day and everyone was in a hurry but too many times when there was oncoming traffic cars & trucks squeezed between us. It got so bad I started looking for places where I could pull off and I'd wait until the road was clear. It made for a slow, unenjoyable ride. My focus became simple - stay safe & find a hotel.

I arrived, finally, in Guadalupe Victoria, a decent sized town, found a hotel & checked in.

I wasted no time in having a shower and looking for food.

I found a restaurant, ordered some food and had a beer. As I was enjoying my beef tacos I found myself smiling for what seemed like the first time in hours. I could also feel the tension flowing out of my neck and back. I hadn't realised how tense I was.





I wandered around the centre of town on my way back to the hotel, taking a detour through the town park. Again, a lovely civic space but full of birds, all chattering. A wonderful sound right beside the main road that runs right through the centre of town!


Not a bad ending to a tough old day!


Tomorrow is the last run into Durango. I've booked an AirBnB and will stay two nights. I'll be taking the toll road for as long as possible!!







If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2020)

Day 119, Thursday, January 09, 2020, Guadalupe Victoria to Durango 84km

Way, way, way back when I was looking at rough plans and thinking of Mexico, Durango was on my list of places to visit. It's one end (the high end) of the "Devil's Backbone" road linking to Mazatlãn. By all accounts it's an interesting city in it's own right, full of early Spanish architecture. So, it's hardly a surprise that I sprung out of bed this morning excited at the prospect of finally reaching here.

I got dressed and went across the road to the Oxxo for a coffee, then sat drinking it in the park watching the town come to life and listening to all the birds in their morning excitement! It was a cool morning and there was a lot of cloud cover. Then it was back to the hotel, load up Roccado and head off!

I stopped on the edge of town for a bite to eat and set off into a wind that was already strong. I had about 10km to cover until I could join the cuota - toll road. 

My Lord! The road was bumpy! Seriously bad surface! Progress was slow! Having failed to have my relaxed day yesterday, I was determined to have it today so I was focusing on the smooth, wide shoulder that awaited me further down the road.





In fairness, the traffic was very light and the bonhomie of previous days had returned - lots of space, waves & toots! I was going slow, working hard, but it was enjoyable.

Away to my left the landscape was glorious. There were green hills in the foreground, blue mountains in the background, a patchwork of clouds of different shades and depths in front of a blue background. Photos don't do it justice, but it was beautiful!















I came across a big prison on the left. I'd have taken a photo but they can be fussy about such things. As it turned out, a car was waiting for me alongside the prison. A girl, who did all the talking in Spanish (despite me saying I had no Spanish!) and a guy doing his best to translate. She wanted to make a video of a kind of interview. Sure, what else would I be doing? 

Finally I arrived at the turnoff for the cuota and I happily took it. But there was no shoulder! Well, no shoulder that was usable! A kerb on the right, about 30cm wide and with cats eyes down the middle. Disaster! 





I stopped, whipped out the phone and checked various points along the route using Google Street View (so handy in cycle.travel). Yep! This was the whole way!

In the time I was doing this one car and one truck had passed me so it was by no means busy. However, this was relatively early in the morning. I had no idea how busy it might be later and I certainly expected it to be busier closer to Durango. While I could take the lane now, there was no guarantee that I could later.

Reluctantly, I turned around and went back up the slip road (the wrong way…..again!!) and rejoined good ol' Mex 40 again.

It's hard to bitch about my enforced return to Mex 40 because it was running through such fantastic country. It's not that there were single interesting views, it was the totality of the view that was so amazing. Apart from the occasional dip in the road I was riding along a great plain with hills and mountains jutting up singly or in lines in the distance. Of course, the plain meant wind and the surface wasn't great, but they were as nothing to where I was and what I was doing!










There were very few places to stop and I did lose some fantastic photo opportunities simply because there was no safe place to pull in.

That didn't stop Poncho, though! He slowed down behind me in his pick up, freaking me out a bit to be honest, then pulled along side me & started asking if there was anything I needed - food, water, anything! I pointed out that a truck was coming towards him so he pulled right off the road so we could have a proper chat. 

He'd passed me going the other way, turned around and chased me down. He's a cyclist too and thought what I was doing was great! We connected on Facebook (this is really starting to come in handy!) and by the time of my next stop he'd sent out a post to all his friends explaining who I was, what I was doing and asking them to help me along!! That's the second one of these posts that has been made on my behalf in the past couple of days! Mexico is really amazing!

Of course, the other advantage of Mex 40 is towns, and specifically, food stops! Passing through one small town my nose filled with the most amazing aroma! I had to stop! I have no idea what it was that I ate, but the ladies making it were very nice and the food was delicious! As I was waiting for my food another man approached me speaking English asking all the usual questions. He was very happy that I had such a positive impression of Mexico. After my food he came back with more questions and request for a photo. I was happy to pose and then he called out two of the ladies who made my food. I think he may have owned the place and wanted to use me in an advertising campaign! In any case, I figured out that after 20 years living in the Netherlands, I am finally in a place where I am taller than the average female!

*Some of the towns can be very pretty....but the road surfaces are dire!*





On the road progress was slow. The surface was rough, sometimes very rough, and the wind was pretty prominent. Most of the traffic and all of the trucks were excellent. However, at times when an oncoming car met an upcoming car at the same time as they all passed me it got pretty hairy. A lot of the time there was a nasty drop from the side of the road - not something you'd want to take at speed - so I'd often estimate a pinch point well in advance and look for a likely bailing point. It meant a lot of standing and waiting for the road to clear, but I was determined to have a relaxing day!

I stopped again for some more food later. These little places along the road are great! I explain I'm hungry, they babble at me, I look blankly and they make me something delicious!! Imagine how good it will be when I can understand them!

The last 25kms into Durango were slow going, mainly due to the wind. When the main road got too busy I took a parallel side street. Then I entered the residential area and progressed steadily. Nearing my AirBnB I pulled into an Oxxo to buy a beer to mark the end of my day. No beer!!! The first Oxxo without beer! 

I found the AirBnB easily enough, got settled in and asked if there was anywhere I could buy a beer. The son of the owner walked with me to another Oxxo and success!!

I've sat down in their little garden as the sun is falling to write this, enjoying my beer. They have a wonderful dog who is gentle and playful, but big enough to roughhouse with. There is something so relaxing about rubbing a dog! I've been very fortunate to have been the co-owner of the world's greatest, dumbest, bravest, yet sometimes cowardly, most playful, loyal and downright lovable dog. Damn! I miss him!





Anyways, it feels pretty good to be here! It feels like the end of a stage. The road from Durango to Mazatlãn is well documented. I'm back in the world of other cycle tourists. My adventure of going where not many others have gone has ended! 

I'm off to have a well earned shower, throw on some fresh clothes and get something to eat!

*Durango!!*





Tomorrow I'm going to have a tourist day and wander around the historical centre. That definitely is going to be relaxing day!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jan 2020)

Day 120, Friday, January 10, 2020, Being a tourist in Durango 0km


I had a lovely day wandering around the old city. I hit a couple of museums, but lacking Spanish I missed a lot. I did a lot of sitting and watching people. Had my AirBnb had hot water I'd have been tempted to stay another day.

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jan 2020)

Day 121, Saturday, January 11, 2020, Durango to El Parador de la Montana 67km Min meters 1871, Max Meters 2360, Total Climb 1272, Total Descent 819 

I wasn't up too early today - the mornings are quite cold. Looking at my route last night I realised that my climbing isn't over!! I have another bit to go up before I can go down! With that in mind I'd picked out a possible campground about 65km down the road. A nice easy day!

The climbing began literally out the gate of my Airbnb - a great way to warm up!

Very quickly I was on Mex 40 and had no problems as traffic was very light. I was soon out of the city and at a complicated figure 8 type intersection. No problem! One car passed me!





Straight away there was a police checkpoint but I was just waved through with smiles & cheers.

Then the climbing really began!! Slow & steady was the progress. It was amazing how quickly I was above the city! Traffic was very light and barely an issue.






When the climb levelled off I had a look at Gizmo to see I'd risen 395m in 13 km. That's a good way to get the heart going!





Once levelled off, I was cycling across a wide plain, steady progress being made. Then the descent started!! It's not often I don't enjoy a good descent, but truth be told I'd worked very hard to get up here and I knew as soon as I was down, it was straight back up again!!

What started as a straight road down soon became twisty and a lot more fun! Then I came to the most amazing vista and just had to stop! 

As always I reached for my compañero, my bike buddy, Hobbes, to make the picture more personal.

He was gone!

My mind flew back along the road at the speed of light until it landed on the last spot I had him out. I remembered putting him back on the bike, but being distracted and not strapping him on.

I hopped straight back on, turned around and started climbing. I don't think I've ever attacked a hill in my life, but I did today! I attacked everything! I could see the spot in my mind and drove myself towards it. All the time I was scanning the road, both sides. A lot of the scrub on the roadside is burnt a dark orange and there are a lot of orange/brown rocks in this area. Lots of false alarms.

I finally arrived at the last photo spot. In my memory there was no place for cars to stop, but when I arrived I saw that was wrong.

There was no sign of my travelling buddy. I hunted everywhere. Still optimistic, I climbed back on the bike and slowly headed off again. With every km my hope faded. 

When I finally arrived back at the vista, 25km along, I was not a happy camper..

Hobbes was specially made for me by a friend in time for my first, self supported bike tour. He's been on every one since - long and short. He's been all over Europe strapped onto a bike and on this trip he's crossed the Atlantic and wandered through eight American States and two Mexican ones. He's been the star in lots and lots of photos. 

I'm sure it seems silly to a lot of people, but he is a big loss to me. Other than my Ortliebs, he's the only thing that remains from my first time setting off on an adventure. As great as Ortliebs are, they're not exactly going to liven up any photos!! Bike adventure and Hobbes go hand in hand. It'll take a while to get used to his absence.





Setting off again the descent became more twisty. On another day it would be great fun. The views were spectacular! In all I dropped about 6-700m to a small river and then it was straight back up again!





There were cliffs casting shade which was most welcome as I progressed slowly. There were a lot of blind bends to be careful of. Eventually, the extreme climbing levelled off and I could build up a bit of momentum. Every now and then the road Gods would throw another climb in front of me just for laughs!










I'd been banking on a petrol station further down the road to have a cold drink but when I arrived it was closed. 





Feeling really tired I checked Gizmo and saw just how many meters I'd climbed! Going back to look for Hobbes had really increased the altitude!

I came across a cabin rental place and did a quick calculation. The sun was setting, the campground I was aiming for was 16km down the road with a lot of climbing - and I wasn't sure it was even open.

I turned off, tried to get a place to pitch my tent & failed so took a cabin.

I dumped my stuff and wandered back across the road to a restaurant. Run by an elderly couple, I was their only customer at that time. Despite my lack of Spanish and his lack of English I was made to feel most welcome - It's a skill of the great hosts.

Dinner was great and I topped up my water supply before leaving.





Tomorrow will be a better day! 

*Mi compañero (last pic)*






If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jan 2020)

Day 122, Sunday, January 12, 2020,El Parador de la Montana to "El Tecúan" Ecological Park 18km
Min meters 2319, Max Meters 2638, Total Climb 357, Total Descent 220

If ever there's a place to forget your troubles and be reminded that people are essentially good and friendly, it's Mexico! But more on that later.

I was in no rush this morning. It's cold in the mornings! I got up and had a leisurely breakfast of porridge & coffee. It was near noon when I was setting off.

It being a Sunday I had been hoping for less trucks but Sunday seems to be just another day for truck drivers here! I could hear them labouring up and down the climbs all morning. Their engines can be very loud! A lot of the trucks are old and sound as if they're being held together with rubber bands and a whole lot of hope!

There was another sound as well - motorcycles! There were more than a few, some really flying up and down the roads. I couldn't really blame them - it must be a fantastic road for a powerful bike!

The day started with a descent, then straight back up again! I'm beginning to understand why the Devil is associated with this road!





There's a real mix and match of roads and scenery. The roads can be straight up or down, or else a series of s bends. The s bends require careful consideration since I'm slow moving and they can be blind. However, oftentimes there is a place to stop, catch a breather and enjoy the view - even if it's on the wrong side of the road. The other thing to keep me on my toes is the surface. Quality can vary, often with no warning. Especially important on the descents.





There's a lot more trees now. Normal height trees! And birds! Yesterday, I saw a little bird, similar size to a Robin, but with the most violent red breast! It was flirting amongst the bushes on the side of the road and was so eye-catching! 





The traffic is all very well behaved, even the motorcyclists! Sometimes solo or in pairs and sometimes in big packs. As always, lots of waves and beeps of support!










After a couple of hours I arrived at my destination for yesterday, a National Park. On a whim I pulled in and a man came out of his office/home.

Yes, I could camp - but it was going to be very cold!

No, there was no food, but down the road 2kms there was a restaurant. 

I decided to feed myself and think about my options.

Food was simple, but great. Because my Spanish was so poor that I had trouble understanding the food options the lady came out of the kitchen with various pots so I could choose by pointing!

Once fed I decided to have a night camping. I miss the tent and a bit of cold won't kill me. Besides, as friendly as the motorbikers were, it was still a bit unnerving being passed by a line of them moving significantly faster than other traffic. On top of all that, I've been looking forward to this road for quite a while, so, what's the rush?

After food I popped next door to somewhere that looked more like a shop. Another restaurant but I was still able to buy some water for my camp. I got talking to a bunch of people in the restaurant who all came out to look at my bike & wish me well. Photos taken, Facebook connections made and later personal messages offering help and assistance while I'm in Mexico! Once again, Mexico delivers up such a welcoming scene!





I climbed back up to the campground, paid 45 pesos a little over €2 and told to camp where I like!

There's a basic toilet block, picnic tables & fire pits & BBQs. 

There's a playground and lots of walks. Trees everywhere. There's another two groups who seem to be here for the day. They bring their own speakers! 





This is strange camping for me, going from 30C in the daytime to near freezing at night. Since I'm in the scorpion capital area of Mexico I'll need to make sure all my bags are closed and that I shake out my shoes in the morning!

If I was in any doubt about the scorpions, there's a market in Durango that is full of scorpions! Leather scorpions, wooden ones, scorpions in bottles of booze! The market itself is wonderful - if you can find it! Entry is at the back of some shops in a big block. I was walking around for ages looking for a big door! 


It's quite interesting just how powerful the sun is in these parts. Once it hides behind a cloud, or the sunlight is shaded by a tree the temperature drops significantly. Today, when the road was in the shade I would be on the verge of shivering, whereas moments before I was roasting in the sun!


As I was sitting, reading my Kindle, I was approached by a man. He was from one of the other groups in the park and would accept nothing else other than I join them for food! Himself, his wife and two sons were in the park for the day, from Durango. I was served up delicious food, corn cooked over an open fire and a glass of coke - with ice! Communication was very difficult, but I was in no doubt that I was very welcome! I showed the two boys my tent and bike and using Google Translate explained how friendly and welcoming everyone is to me. They were all, father especially, proud that their country was having such a positive impression. Once again Facebook connections were made and once again I have a contact for anything I need while in Mexico!





Today was an 18km day! I think that's one of my shortest ever! I think it's important on a tour to have the flexibility to take a day like today. It doesn't all have to be about big distances and following plans. 

I was certainly right - Today was a better day!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jan 2020)

Day 123, Monday, January 13, 2020, "El Tecúan" Ecological Park to El Salto 43km
Min meters 2284, Max Meters 2656, Total Climb 600, Total Descent 554

I may have mentioned before that I'm not really one for looking too much at elevation profiles although that is slowly changing on this trip!

What I'm really not good at is understanding them when I do look at them! For some reason I had it in my head that the worst of the climbing is behind me for this stage!

Ha! Dumbass!

The Devil's Backbone is well named! It's up and down, up and down! And then up and down some more!! There is variety in that the ups and downs can be twisty or straight. In any case, I'm in no rush and happy to meander up and roll down!

Last night was fine - not as cold as I was expecting! In truth, the worst of the cold is with the setting sun, then the temperature can drop very quickly. However, once dressed for it, it's fine.





I had a lovely long evening in my tent reading my book. The last family packed up and headed off at sunset.

During the night there was some animal activity, dogs, or perhaps coyotes, mainly in the distance, but some in the vicinity of the tent. Nothing to worry me though. Also, there was an owl somewhere that was calling out. A wonderful sound!

I was close enough to the road as the crow flies and there were regular trucks passing by, their engines straining. All of this added up to a good night's sleep!

The morning was very fresh so I was slow to get going. I got up, made coffee and had some tortillas with honey - the honey donated to me on the road. 

It was about 10:30 when I was hitting the road.

I started off with a quick descent then a long, straightish climb. The land is a bit more agricultural, but there are lots of trees. Think forest with areas cleared out by farmers. 





The road was quiet and all the motorcyclists were back at work. The road surface is ok, but prone to sudden drops in quality. Easy enough to keep an eye on on the way up, more critical on the way down.





I came close to the toll road and could see that this one was a two laner with what seemed to be a decent, marked shoulder.

After a couple of hours I came across a roadside restaurant and pulled in for food. I needed fuel and I needed a rest. This is tough work! 

Moving on it was more of the same - climb, maybe cycle across a plain, then drop back again. It can be quite frustrating actually, watching your height approach a nice, round number then it falls rapidly before hitting it.





If it sounds boring, it most certainly is not! There are lots and lots of trees and I love cycling in the trees! There are not many photo ops for two reasons - one is safety (there are not many safe places to stop) and two - scale (a better camera is required to fit everything in!).









Accommodation options are pretty much limited to the towns now. I have a few wild camping spots in mind from other sources, but local advice was not to use them. In any case, I'm in no real rush to Mazatlán. Organising the language course is tricky and I won't be starting before next week. Seen as I'm in Mazatlán for a few weeks there's no point in rushing there.

While eating, I'd settled on El Salto as my next overnight stop. A good sized town, a choice of hotels. A chance to wander around another Mexican town.





Approaching the town I saw what I took to be a big hotel resort type place. It was big, bright, clean, lots of cabins and what seemed to be a couple of restaurants. Then I saw the guns! An army barracks! El Salto is in a big dip so I rolled carefully down. As is the case in most Mexican towns the road surface is diabolical, as are the speed bumps. The first hotel I saw was on the edge of town with not many services close by. I checked it out but decided it was too expensive for where it was. The next one was more in the centre so I checked in there. It won't be winning any awards but it's a safe place to rest my head.





There was something off about El Salto from the get go. Apart from the big military base, it's a centre for the lumber industry. I received a lot of sullen stares and no waves or smiles - almost unique in my Mexican experience.

I changed my clothes and went out for food. I had a feeling I didn't want to be out after dark and nothing I experienced convinced me otherwise. It's not that anything bad happened, it was more a lack of the usual friendliness I was used to experiencing. My Spidey senses were tingling. I ate and returned to my room. The promised WiFi was non existent so I couldn't even be productive and update this.

I was feeling a bit down, to be honest. I didn't come to Mexico on my bike to be hiding out in a grotty motel room. At least there was an English language movie on the T.V. It was about a 5-headed shark (yes! 5!! 4 at the front and one where the tail should be!) that was on the rampage. To say it was dire would be unfair to all other dire movies. If it was just a teeny bit worse, it may even have been good! 

It was followed by another movie where giant sea worms attack an American flotilla that is trying to rescue the President. Time for sleep!

Tomorrow will be better!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2020)

Day 124, Tuesday, January 14, 2020, El Salto to Parque Natural Mexiquillo 48km
Min meters 2547, Max Meters 2858, Total Climb 625, Total Descent 607 

Did I mention the mornings are cold here?!

I had intended on getting an early, at first, light start, but when I got out of bed and had a look I hopped back in again. Bitterly cold and lots of pickups filled with men driving up and down, presumably off to the forests to chop trees.

I gave it another hour, then hopped up and got rolling.

I was expecting to pass a store on the way out of town, but the few there were were all closed. No coffee!!

Immediately, I was into climbing mode - a great way to warm up.

Despite my poor opinion of El Salto, the drivers were their usual courteous selves.

Once out of the town limits there was a real feeling of being in a forest. The trees seemed taller, deeper and closer. There was hardly any traffic and there was regular silence - except for the birds. I even saw a squirrel! What was so commonplace in America to such a rarity here!





After about an hour I could feel myself flagging without any breakfast. Unfortunately, it seemed like there would be no options for a while.

At one stage my road was split by the toll road, then ran along it for a little while. There was a roadside restaurant along the toll road, but no way for me to get there!! 





I had the makings of breakfast with me, but no place to stop and eat it safely. Frustrating!!

Turning away from the toll road I passed through the village of La Adjuntas. Along the road were signs warning that the next fuel, telephone & food was 35km down the road.

Now, I was getting grumpy! My water would need to be rationed. Thankfully, I copped a little store & pulled in buying some water and some gorditas - a bit like pita breads. On the way out of the store into the bright sunlight I was glad I was wearing my helmet when I whacked my head off the low door frame! Mexico is a great place for shortarses to feel good about themselves!

Back on the road I was feeling better even as I recommenced climbing. Since there was a guardrail I pulled in, raided my panniers and had a brunch of gorditas with thick, Mexican honey & some nuts. Now, I was definitely feeling better!
*



*

While sitting down eating in the sun I realised that the shady side had lots of snow! This scene was repeated all day wherever there was constant shade.

During that time I was passed by three heavily armoured pick-ups, with several armed men standing in the back. While friendly and full of waves for me, it does remind me that there are certain risks in this region.





Today the roads were much more twisty with many steep drops on either side. Guardrails are on the bends, but that's all. Go off the road and you may never be seen again!





After passing several signs warning of dangerous bends I was bemused to see a bus stop located right on one! Even more bemused to see someone hail the bus as it flew around the bend! 

Traffic was light, so light, in fact, that often there was just the sound of the wind in the trees and some birds. When traffic appeared, it tended to come in batches, a line together, unable to overtake. Once,when a truck was coming from behind, I got a shock when one rounded a bend in front of me. There was no room for all three of us! I bailed off the road onto a small patch of gravel and clung on for dear life. There was a drop of about 40meters immediately to my right. Both trucks slowed right down and everything was fine. So, so different from America!

A lot of the trucks on this section are carrying lumber. They are far more considerate than their American brethren!

Like yesterday, it seemed to be constant climbing or descending. The twisty roads were a lot more fun, though!

There are also some interesting rock formations in this area.





Coming close to El Cuidad I had some decisions to make. I could camp or take a hostel there or I could go on. Going on would mean stealth camping and I wasn't sure I wanted to, not at least when there were alternatives. I stopped for some food and decided to check out the Natural Park a few kms down the road. Poncho, who I met on the road to Durango had given me some places to camp and this was one. I stocked up on some water and got ready to head off.

On a whim, I doubled back to the Oxxo store to grab a coffee. While sipping it outside, two young guys pulled up on motorcycles beside me. Motorcycles are quite common transport here, often very old machines and low ccs. These bikes were brand new, powerful, scrambler types and stuck out like the proverbial sore thumbs. They ignored me, yet never took their eyes off me. I was feeling very uncomfortable and also glad that I would soon be off the road.

I took the turn, passed several cabin rental places and finally arrived at the park. Trying to figure out where I should make myself known, a guy came out of a restaurant, charged me 95 pesos and told me to camp where I wanted.

Taking him at his word, I've cycled deep into the park. I was following handmade signs for a lake, but I reckon they mean what used to be a lake! The rock formations are amazing and there's no water to be seen.





I'm not the only camper here. There are also some Germans in a big truck type of thing. It's not a conventional RV, but has big wheels and high suspension. It's green and has quite the military air about it. A drone was buzzing overhead while I was eating, a particularly obnoxious sound. If you come across a German titled YouTube video from Mexiquillo Natural Park look out for the grumpy fecker giving the camera the finger - that'll be me!! 





It seems this place is famous for off-roading and quad bikes. I passed a long line of them playing follow the leader on my way in. There's also quite a lot of broken glass in some of the areas which is a real shame. However, I don't think I've ever pitched my tent in such an exotic looking location! I hope it's a clear night tonight - despite the cold - this place will look amazing in the moonlight!














If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2020)

Day 125, Wednesday, January 15, 2020, Parque Natural Mexiquillo to Wildcamp 64km
Min meters 1982, Max Meters 2766, Total Climb 727, Total Descent 1211

Mother Nature didn't cooperate last night - the sky was cloudy - nor this morning - a heavy layer of frost everywhere.

I got up slowly and took a wander around the park. There was a fair bit of condensation in the tent, so I placed my sleeping bag & sleeping pad on rocks in the sun, moved the tent to benefit from the sunlight and ate a banana and orange for breakfast.

I finally set off a little after 10am and bounced my way back to the little town stopping for a coffee & sandwich.





Then it was a straight climb out of town!

If *La espinal del diablo* has been playing hard to get up until now, well today was the day she donned her finest garments, spritzed herself with a musky scent and thoroughly seduced me!

It started off as yesterday was, climbing slowly on curving roads through forests. I love forests! It's a toss up as to whether I prefer cycling through forests or cycling beside water, especially the sea. Since I am on my way to the Pacific Ocean to cycle along some of that I can't really be complaining about too much forest!





There were trees everywhere! Along the side of the road, below the road, sometimes on cliffs above the road. Occasionally, there were gaps between the trees and I could see way off in the distance, rows and rows of mountains, dark blue in the front, each subsequent row a lighter shade until the very back rows seemed to merge and be lost in the sky! It was simply spectacular!





I was nearing 3000m and that meant that I was peaking soon. It seemed today that the road was never straight, just a series of curves, one after the other. Tough, but pleasant, on the way up, lots of fun on the way down.





I finally got into a steady descent then rounded a corner and was presented with this!





I took loads of photos here, ate my lunch here, walked up and down the road here. I could have stayed here! I really didn't want to leave!





But leave I must, and I continued on.

The road now was effectively running along the outside of the mountains so I was treated to regular, spectacular views over the countryside, or sheer cliffs and still, occasionally, bunches of trees.





It wasn't all downhill, there were some steep climbs too, but the general trajectory was down.





I had to be careful of rockfalls - there was ample evidence on the road. It wasn't unusual to see a football sized rock in the road. Also, there were many, many blind bends that required careful negotiation. Another hazard was cattle! I came across two separate bunches that had obviously been placed on a grassy area at the side of the road to graze!
My ears could be very deceptive. Hearing a vehicle, sometimes it was impossible to determine if it was ahead or behind me such was the elevation drop and the nature of the S bends. But here's the thing - the traffic level was unbelievably low! In fact, for most of the day I had the feeling that I had this wonderful road all to myself!

I stopped frequently, taking lots of pictures, but also just to let the whole experience soak in. This is a once in a lifetime road! I was especially captivated by the rows of blue mountains on one side, fading into the hazy distance. If ever there was a scene that suggested mystery and adventure it was those row upon row of mountains.





The cliffs were amazing too! Sheer and towering above they were incredibly impressive! As I descended, they began to be covered in vegetation, sometimes spectacular in its own right. Often too, little waterfalls were running down the face of the cliff, adding a wonderful sound to an amazing view! On top of that the birdsong was changing. Perhaps it's my overactive imagination but I couldn't help but think that even the birds were sounding more exotic!

I couldn't stop stopping! It seemed like every bend threw up something a little different than before. Traffic was so scarce that when I did stop the only sounds were of the birds and maybe a little stream bubbling below me. There were lots of places for a bike to pull in, sometimes on the wrong side of the road and I availed of just about every one!

My destination for today was vague, to say the least. There were no official options that were in range - or to put it another way - I could be pushing myself to reach a hotel down the road, but what's the point in that, on this road, of all roads?!! I was hoping I'd come across a hotel in one of the small towns.

I think it was after three when I came across my first open roadside restaurant. I pulled in but the cupboards were bare. I ordered three quesadillas (all they had) and devoured them with a coke. I've been craving cheese again! Then I added a packet of biscuits and scoffed them too!

Setting off again I rounded a bend and said goodbye to the state of Durango. I'm now in Sinaloa, another one of those "revise your need to travel" states.

As well as the road surface changing for the worse, there was an immediate little town with two hotels!! Score!!

Unfortunately, both were closed! Heading out of town I now had a bit of a dilemma. It would be getting dark soon, the next town with a hotel was about 60-70km away. There's an app, IOverlander, that shows the locations of unofficial camp sites for RVs as well as tents. I had marked off the locations along the road, in fact I had passed some earlier and had not been impressed. Now, my only option was another site about 10km down the road.

To say I was hesitant was an understatement. This is bandit country and all advice is to be off the roads after dark. I guess that goes for camping as well!
In any case, I rounded a bend and to my left was a relatively open space, dotted with trees and rising above the road. There was no traffic about so I raced in and up until I was sufficiently out of sight of the road. Then I laid the bike down and commenced exploring. I found a place, not the flattest, but out of the line of sight of traffic in both directions. In actual fact, I'm looking down on a bridge on the toll road miles away!

I went back, got the bike and set up camp. I'm as invisible as can be!

I made an extravagant dinner of noodles & tuna as the sun disappeared behind the mountains with the most spectacular light show. Since I'm at a lower altitude than the last few nights it's not as cold. I can hear the occasional rumble of traffic from the toll road way beneath me, the even rarer sound of a vehicle on my road and the random sound of cowbells somewhere below me too! For a wild camping spot, it's not too bad!

I used to make up stories about a bear, Oso, to help an old girlfriend go to sleep (it must be something about my voice!). After today's sights and my camping location tonight there is no shortage of inspiration for more stories! Maybe I should write a book - Oso goes to Mexico!


If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2020)

Day 125 - Some extra pics


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jan 2020)

Day 126, Thursday, January 16, 2020, Wildcamp to Concordia 65km
Min meters 145, Max Meters 2036, Total Climb 409, Total Descent 2182

I awoke at 2:30 am to the sound of nothing! It was a gloriously calm night, although the brightness in the tent suggested an interesting sky.

Since it wasn't cold I ventured out and savoured the night sky through the tops of the trees. Such clarity! 

Back in bed I read for a little while before falling back to sleep.

I awoke as the sun was peeking over the mountains in the east. 
*My morning view!*





Then it was up and a leisurely breakfast of coffee & porridge. The view is simply breathtaking, while the soundtrack is of some birds chirping, many insects buzzing and a cowbell or two! it seems like a sin to rush away from it! Logistically, I'll need to ration my water until I get more, but that's a price I'm happy to pay for this moment.

If yesterday was seduction day, today was the day *La espinal del diablo* ripped off my clothes and bonked me in ways that the Kama Sutra writers would have thought impossible!! Today was probably the greatest ride of my life! Like all great lovers she mixed in some agony to heighten the ecstasy and by the time it was all over I was totally drained - but that just may have been the humidity!





I started with a gentle descent that turned into a climb. In fact, that was the tempo for the first little while - a teasing descent, followed by a climb. I was seeing the same things I was seeing yesterday - the cliffs, the rows of blue mountains, the differing vegetation and if that sounds boring that's my poor writing style, not the environment. I was loving it! Again, I had the road pretty much to myself. One difference as I got lower was that some of the trees were flowering. It was not unusual to round a bend and find the road covered in fallen blooms, probably knocked off by some passing truck. Nashville may not have laid on a ticker tape parade, but Mexico was laying out flowers for me! 





At around 11 am I crossed the Tropic of Cancer! Now, I suppose if I had planned this properly I wouldn't have been as surprised as I was! But, hey, I like surprises! Since there was a little shop I pulled in and scoffed some muffins and a coke and reflected on the fact that I had just entered the tropics - on my bicycle! Another conceptual moment meets reality! On some level I knew I'd cross such a boundary, but had never thought about when or where. 





I continued on and met up again with the toll road. According to Gizmo there was a maze of intersections, entries & exits, with the added complication of roadworks, always a tricky thing on a bike. Ha! This is Mexico! Traffic was so light (read non-existent) that I could even stop at a crash barrier and savour the view! 




It was from this point onwards that the bonking (in the non-cycling context) kicked in as it was pretty much downhill after that.





The downhill had different styles; gentle, mellow gradients, steep, fast gradients, random brutal climbs, but one consistency; Bendy as a very bendy thing!





Talk about fun! It was exhilarating! I gave up pretty quickly on stopping to take photos. The sensible reason is that the road seemed more compact and there were far fewer places to safely pull in. The honest reason is that somewhere deep inside a little boy broke out and wanted to race his bike!





And racing is what it really felt like! Sweeping left, then sweeping right, gathering speed then almost a dead stop before turning 180° under a cliff or over a direct drop to below! It did not stop! There were no straights for more than maybe 100 meters. Some of the turns were downright dangerous they were so tight, some so sweeping I could fly around them at full speed! 

The bike handled brilliantly, no issues with the trailer. It helped that the surface had changed from chip and seal to baby smooth tarmac. And, of course, the lack of traffic! Of course, anytime I came in the vicinity of the toll road the noise of traffic from there caused a bit of confusion. 

The only downer was watching my elevation fall at a scary rate! I had worked so hard to gain each and every one of those meters and now they were disappearing before my eyes!





Things started to calm down at about 300 meters. The road had changed back to chip and seal and the overall downwards trajectory was getting ready to self correct - I could see a nasty climb in the distance.

Then I encountered first one, then two then three tourers coming the opposite way. We pulled in and had a chat. There was a German couple and a third guy who had joined them that day. I felt so sorry for them facing into the climb that I was just finishing! When stopped I realised just how warm it was! Gizmo was showing mid 30sC and it felt it! There was a heavy humidity I hadn't had before! 

That's a thing - the direction for this road. Every account I've read has been people going the other way to me. Thinking back, I think my direction would have delivered the most bang for effort. The descent towards Mazatlãn is streets ahead of the descent after Durango.

I wasn't that far from Concordia at this stage. That was where I was planning to stop, even though it was relatively early. The fact was, I was feeling very tired! 

The evil climb I had spied I the distance didn't disappoint and was aided in its evilness by the heavy humidity.

The traffic had picked up too, closer to Concordia as evidenced by the first truck of the day! There were also several pickups operating as buses - a high canvas roof over the bed of the truck, two benches and as many people as possible crammed in! These guys were flying, too!

Entering Concordia there was some kind of control point. I was pulled over, but only for a chat. And a bottle of water!

The town is located just off the main road so I stopped at an Oxxo and grabbed a coffee. It's becoming a bit of a ritual now on arrival - a nice little pick me up at the end of the day.

I tracked down a hotel - recommended by one of the cyclists earlier and had a long, hot shower as well as doing some laundry. My Merino top is turning from blue to white with salt deposits!

Then I tried to update this blog but it was taking forever to load pictures. Giving up, I wandered around this pretty little town and found some dinner. Crossing the Tropic earlier had given me pause to check the time and I discovered I was an hour ahead of myself! A first for me!! So now I have an extra hour to play with.

The vibe in the town is so pleasant that I retired to the town park to write this. I fancy a beer, but nobody's selling any in the vicinity and I'm too lazy to walk around anymore. I've a sneaking suspicion that I might have a second dinner in a little while! 

I'm within striking distance of Mazatlán now. After much to-ing and fro-ing the last few days it looks like my language lessons are organised, starting Monday. I need to organise some accommodation, I'm thinking AirBnb if I can't organise a homestay. I'll see how I'm feeling tomorrow as to how far I go. This side of the mountains is pretty warm! 

I have to say I'm pretty excited at seeing the Pacific! It occurred to me today that when I arrive I'll have cycled from the Atlantic to the Pacific! That's pretty cool in my book!

As for _La espinal del diablo_; What a feckin' thrill!!! It shows up in most collections of "famous" or "dangerous" roads and there is no doubt that it is dangerous. The sheer number of roadside memorials in the forms of crosses or sometimes little shrines confirms this. 

It's fame is well deserved in my view. The vistas are amazing, weather dependent, of course, the bends are thrilling. 

It is not easy - there are times when it is damn hard work! I'd imagine that in poor weather it is far from pleasant, but thankfully, that wasn't an issue for me.

The traffic, where it exists, was exceptional in terms of how they treated a loaded cyclist. Hats off to Mexico!

That's another little check against my list of things I want to do. That list is getting pretty short now! 

I lost my biking buddy along the way. 

One thing is for sure - I'll never forget _La espinal del diablo!_

After I finished writing that I took another little wander around. Feeling peckish I had a choice of some street food or a pizzeria. The pizza would be the easy option so I opted for the street food. My usual approach of explaining I was hungry and had no Spanish yielded the best response yet - not just pointing at various ingredients but getting to taste them too!!! I had a delicious large burrito and a big (glass) bottle of coke - no beer unfortunately. The food was so good I had another! Ah! The joys of riding a bike!

I was really enjoying the evening - lots of people around, a very pleasant vibe, warm enough to sit in a t-shirt when it got better! There was music coming from somewhere - old, Spanish language songs - that just added to an already wonderful atmosphere.

There had been activity in front of the old church but now it kicked into life, first with a singer then with dancers. I moved around to get a better view and was entertained for the next couple of hours. It was fantastic! Men dancing, women dancing, sometimes separate, sometimes together. The dresses the women were wearing were just fabulous! So many colours and such movement! A wonderful spectacle! 

Of course, they were amateurs but they really seemed to be enjoying themselves. One poor girl was terribly focused and working really, really hard. Unfortunately, she was so focused on what she was doing she wasn't aware of her co-dancers and often got separated from them. In another dance, two guys forgot to remove their hats at a critical time resulting in panic. 

The audience were all local, and lots of children watching and dancing along. It really was a wonderful atmosphere and I got to witness it all! No planning could have anticipated this evening!

Sometimes, it's better to be lucky than good!








If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jan 2020)

Day 126 -:some extra pics!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jan 2020)

Day 127, Friday, January 17, 2020, Concordia to Mazatlán 58km
Min meters -17, Max Meters 224, Total Climb 594, Total Descent 612 

Back in my hotel room last night I booked an AirBnB in Mazatlán for tonight. This morning I regretted that choice. I got up about 8 am and for the first time in a long time I wasn't cold. I wandered back up to the town square/park and sat down enjoying my breakfast. This place is so nice I wanted to stay another day. I'd do nothing except sit in the park and watch the world go by……

On the other hand, today was the day that I should be arriving at the Pacific Ocean, something that has been growing in significance the past couple of days. Not for the first time reality meets concept and I am feeling pretty excited!

So, I enjoyed a leisurely breakfast in the park, then returned to my room to pack up. It was warm! I was lathered in sweat just putting the panniers on!

I set off into the rolling countryside. The road was busier, for sure, but traffic was still very respectful and supportive - lots of beeps! On the flat I was ticking along fine, but there were a few long climbs that slowed me down and I really started to feel the heat! Then, the descent on the other side provided a wind that cooled down my sweaty body wonderfully!





I can't say that the landscape was as interesting as yesterday, but it was interesting and pleasant; more agricultural land, the hills dotted with flowering plants as well as bushes. To be honest, my head wasn't in it - the sea, nay the ocean, was just down the road - that's where my mind was!










I had planned to rest up in Villa Union and have a bite to eat. A chaotic little town, but charming. In the end I just kept on rolling wanting to get to the water!

It was in Villa Union that I said goodbye to Mex 40. What a ride it has been! Not always pleasant on the way to Durango, but such a thrill the last couple of days! It probably seems silly, but I was a little sad turning on to Mex 15 to Mazatlán. 





The one advantage of 15 was a shoulder - no bad thing considering this road was a whole lot busier!

Since it was pretty flat I was making reasonable time and going fast enough that the wind was keeping me cool. Stopping for a photo or a drink really exposed me to the full on heat! Gizmo was reading mid 30sC and it felt every one of those degrees.

Riding the shoulder was interesting in itself. The surface was variable and sometimes full of gravel, or even sand. It was wide enough that I could weave along, picking out the best line. Closer to the city it was used by buses and other two wheeled transport - going the wrong way! It even disappeared for a while, being replaced by rocks and dried mud! Never a dull moment!





Mazatlãn is by far the largest Mexican city so far, yet it was relatively straightforward to get to the centre. Chaotic, certainly, but straightforward. Turning left on roads with two or more lanes was tricky, but doable with patience. There tends to be such chaos in Mexican towns and cities that an Irishman on a loaded bike fits right in!





Unusually for me, I was actively not looking in the direction of the sea as I approached town. Frankly, the approach wasn't the most scenic and I really wanted my first view of the Ocean, the Pacific Ocean, to be a good one.

I climbed a bit of a hill and there it was directly across the road! It was cloudy and therefore dull, but I'm pretty sure my smile alone added to the lumen level! I was delighted! I was so satisfied! Feck it - I was damn proud of myself! Ocean to ocean! 






It sounds silly, but up until a day or two ago I hadn't thought of this in that way. Mazatlãn was the first decent place I came across in my planning that had a language school. The sea would be a bonus to spend time around. But I've actually cycled across a continent! Feck it, but that deserves a little self praise!

I sat, for what must have been half an hour, just feeling and then absorbing that feeling. Then the sun came out and things got even better! There's a cycle path along the beach so I headed down there and found a restaurant to stop and eat where I could keep an eye on the bike. I even treated myself to a beer!










I got talking to a Canadian guy who was very impressed with my travels. He Winters here every year and I know he meant well, but he started telling me horror stories of thievery and bike accidents. All of a sudden I could feel my paranoia growing and was finding it difficult to relax. My bike was in full view about 10 meters from me but now every passing person was a threat. Not a nice feeling.

I paid up and walked back along the beach just savouring everything. Stick me by water and I'm happy! Today, I was beyond happy!

I grabbed a coffee at an Oxxo (more paranoia!) and sat down facing the sea to write this. I've to get to my AirBnB soon so I'm nearly finished the write up for this leg. I've promised a bike/gear list that I'll post in the chat thread sometime soon. 

What I would like to say to anyone thinking of taking a trip on their bike (or indeed anything similar) to just do it! By all means give yourself the best chance to succeed with some prep and practice, but don't wait until everything is perfect - because it never is!

This day last year I had just had my third physio appointment after suffering a hernia in my back. I couldn't walk more than a couple of hundred meters, I couldn't sit or stand for more than a few minutes. I was in constant, unbelievable pain. A year later I've cycled ocean to ocean. 

If I can do it, just about anyone can!

Epilogue….

It was a pretty straight, direct route to my AirBnB, but as is the case with most of my plans……

To say it was chaos would be an understatement. Rush hour in Mazatlãn is like nothing I've experienced before! Buses picking up & dropping off passengers in the middle of the road, cars doing the same, pedestrians, cyclists and motorcyclists moving in straight lines irrespective of what side of the road they were on. Dogs running around. Hawkers selling God knows what. The noise! Horns being used as a warning, a recognition, frustration, to announce the arrival of buses or cabs. 

A multidimensional cacophony of sight and sound! I had been feeling a little drained - this was a jolt of electricity to a flagging heart!

I would have hated to be in a rush and stressed. Instead, I took my time, went off course to avoid trying to merge through several lanes of traffic and generally just enjoyed the experience. I never once felt in any danger. It was just such an incredibly different experience to anything before on a bike. What a welcome to Mazatlán!

To be continued….






*Somebody's missing ......*

If you have any questions or comments please fire ahead. For the sake of continuity I've had permission from the mod team to use https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-one-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

for comments/questions/discussion.


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Feb 2020)

Days 128 - 156 Spanish days in Mazatlãn. 0 km

First things first, I'm a dumbass and misspelled ":El espinazo del diablo" in my last few posts! I can't get in to change it, so I'll leave it as an example of my overconfidence and suffer whatever criticism comes my way. To anyone reading this who is offended I offer my apologies. I know it bugs me when people misspell places that are close to my heart.

Mazatlan is a city in excess of 1 million people. At times it seems like that (think rush hour) and at times it seems like a friendly little village! 
It's got a perfectly decent beach that is used, but certainly not overused (mind you, it is winter!), a walk along it is calming to the soul. Along the beach is a four lane dual carriageway that seems to be busy all the time, but that really comes to life at the weekends with cars, beach buggies, open air taxis and taxi pickups all cruising up and down, blasting music and often with their own light shows! It's certainly different!

Further down the beach there are lots of municipal facilities where people gather to do aerobics, boxing, basketball, swimming. On a Saturday morning the area is a hive of activity.

I'm told the city has recently come to life and started redeveloping. That's clear along the beach - recent high rise apartments or hotels, more on the way, older buildings and some derelict sites.

Away from the beach you can walk five minutes in one direction and enter a modern shopping mall, while five minutes in the other will bring you to the municipal market and loads of fresh food, fruit, vegetables, seasoning, coconut water and just some amazing aromas.

There are little stores everywhere selling the basics. I've no idea how they can all survive. Food stalls are everywhere too, sometimes a permanent feature, sometimes temporary. It's not unusual to see a section of road blocked off with rope tied to three or four plastic containers containing a stick and cement. Hang around long enough and some people will show up with a van, remove the rope, set up a kitchen on the side of the road, perhaps with a few seats and serve up some delicious food. I don't just mean delicious - I mean really delicious!

It's friendly too. I'm pleased to report that my idea of Mexico as a land of smiles has not been altered. Most people are quick to smile and project a friendliness as warm as the weather.

Learning a new language at 47 years of age is not an easy thing! 
I've always had the idea that foreign languages are not my thing. In my lifetime I've studied Irish, Latin & French in school, German in university, lived in the Netherlands for 20 odd years (odd on every meaning of the word!). I have excelled in absolutely none of them!

This time, I've been determined to give as good a shot as possible. Anytime the dark thought of "I'm just not cut out for languages" arose I've hammered it down. The thought may not be front and center, but it refuses to surrender the edges of my mind.

Nonetheless, I think I've made some progress. 
It's an interesting experience to go back to school as an adult after a long break. 
It's only in the last few years that I've learned to be comfortable with myself and not to beat myself up over mistakes and errors. Starting to cycle coincided with that change of mindset. 
However, going back to school found me heavily conflicted between my old attitude of beating myself up for every error and my newer approach of doing the best I can and forgiving the mistakes.
There were days I was so frustrated with myself it was like a cold, black cloud had wrapped me up and wouldn't let me do anything. Thankfully, the ocean was a ten minute walk away. A walk along the beach in my bare feet and the ocean washed the negativity away.

To do things right I should by rights, stay for a minimum of two to three months but that's just not practical from a timing or budgetary point of view. My hope is that I'll have enough of a grounding that will let me develop more as I work my way south.
There's always the possibility of stopping somewhere further down the line too, depending on progress and season.

Just learning new vocabulary is incredibly difficult! At times it seems like my head is solid wood and there's no place for anything new! But, progress is being slowly made. 
Gender's a pain in the ass! It's not enough to know the word for chair, I have to know if it's a boy or a girl! 
And the rules!!! Not to mention all the irregulars!! 

One of the hardest things is processing the sounds.
V is like B, H is silent, J is H, LL is J, G is K. My poor brain is addled! I hear a word and it appears to have no relationship to what it looks like! Dutch words come to mind first, but I've also recalled words that I thought I had failed to learn in French more than thirty years ago! Our minds are very strange, very powerful things!

This is the longest I've been off the bike since I started. 
It was an interesting experience the first week, setting up home in a new city. It's been twenty years since I did that. It was a bit scary finding my way around but also very rejuvenating. 
When I did start to relax I found myself getting quite tired. 
I've tried not to overeat which is not easy for two reasons; 
My body has become accustomed to processing a fair whack of food every day - it expects it! 
And the food is so darn good!! It's not all spicy (but when it is...it is!!) It's simple, fresh and very tasty. If style over substance is your thing, Mexico may not be for you. But if you prefer how something tastes to how fashionable, modern or equipped a restaurant may be, then hightail it over here!

Noise
There is no escaping the noise generated when more than two Mexicans gather! 
A walk along the Malecon, beach front exposes the stranger to the sounds of engines, horns and various forms of music being pumped out of a variety of vehicles.
Horns are used in vehicles as a warning (I'm coming up behind you), as a reminder (hey! The lights are green), a greeting, a call to passengers (your bus is here) or from Taxis looking for a fare.

On a side note, walking around back in Monclova every taxi beeped at me as I was walking around. In Torreon, taxis were smaller, yellow cars with horns that sounded like wolf whistles and were constantly in use looking for fares. In Durango it was far more civilised and Mazatlãn is a mix.

However, there appears to be very little aggression in the use of horns. 

Street stalls and restaurants often have a large speaker blasting out music, sometimes even a full band! The music definitely stirs something in me. There are surprising connections to Irish music in terms of themes (emigration, separated by borders or distance, homesickness) and my exposure to some of the Texan music means that the instrumentation, rhythms and sounds are not strange in my head.

Noise, like I said is everywhere, yet it doesn't seem excessive to me. For some reason, it seems to "fit". Maybe that's just my travelling head speaking and I'd have a different view if I lived here, but I'm not so sure.
Most of the Mexicans I meet are very quick to smile and it seems that celebrating whatever and whenever possible is the default option. The noise is simply proof of that so I'm happy that I get to hear it!

Roads & traffic
It's difficult to accurately describe the chaos of traffic on urban streets. Often a lane is "lost" due to parked cars, buses or taxis pick up and deposit passengers in the middle of the road, cyclists, motorcyclists and pedestrians often travel the wrong direction on busy roads. The surfaces are unbelievably poor, especially for a bike. Not to mention incredibly effective speed bumps! It is such a shock to the system when compared, for example, to The Netherlands. 
However, I'm loving it! Talk about feeling alive!
I can't say that every driver is considerate, but the vast majority are and even more are patient. It looks crazy! It seems to be death defying! In actual fact it's reasonably safe and a hell of a lot of fun!

Security Presence
Wandering around the old town it was a shock to round a corner and almost walk into four or five soldiers in full camoflauge clothing (white and grey) sporting some serious hardware. They were laughing and joking amongst themselves, but the sheer number of clips sticking out of their pockets was a strong counterpoint to the light and breezy image they projected.
Occasionally I'd encounter a couple of pickups with a couple of guys and a heavy machine gun mounted in the bed of the truck.
These sights seem so out of place, yet a look at a newspaper will demonstrate that they are not quite as left of field. 
Speaking only for myself, once they are out of sight I quickly forget about them.

Sunsets
Mazatlãn sits inside a gentle bay with islands of various sizes at each end of the bay.
Walking along the Malecon was a delight as the sun sank down. 
Looking straight out to sea the sky was layered in soft colours sliding gently into the sea. The colours could be golden orange fading to to the palest of blues, or vibrant pink, merging to purple and dissolving into a vibrant blue.
Clouds took on all kinds of colours and depending on their shapes and the wind became works of art or mythical creatures moving across the sky.
Sometimes the sea reflected the colours from the sky - a perfect canvas above, a living, breathing piece of body art below.

Depending on position I could watch the sun sink down into the sea or watch it turn an island the darkest of blacks as it descended behind it.
What was truly amazing was that the scene changed constantly.
It was never still. Colours morphed from one to another. Clouds became birds, then, elephants, tumbled into forms from fantasy novels and finally faces, slowly aging as the last of the sun's rays died and grey took over.
On the right side of the bay, the contrast between the islands and the skies above, between and behind them was a picture in picture light show, while away to the left the lights of the old town grew stronger as darkness fell.
For a few nights I had the pleasure of watching the tiniest sliver of a moon crescent slip slowly beneath the waves. On other nights, a moon, full and proud hung in the sky directly behind me as I watched the show.
The greatest nature documentary on the largest screen ever!

Every evening was different. It was like some artist started with a blank canvas every evening and attempted to create the world's most beautiful painting. Down on the beach, away from the traffic, this presentation was accompanied by the sound of waves breaking on the shore.
There are worse ways to spend an evening! 

VW Beetles
In Mexico, these are everywhere! Some old and battered, held together with rust and prayers, while others are wonderfully souped up and modified. I think Mexico was the last place they were manufactured and it's a real pleasure to see so many. I've admired those cars ever since being brought to see "The Love Bug" in a cinema by my sister many years ago.

The Next Stage
There have been definite stages to this trip, in my mind at least.
The US was about visiting places I wanted to visit. Mexico, so far, was about getting to Mazatlãn to get some Spanish under my belt. And food!!! I checked off various things along the way - Charleston, Nashville, Austin, Texas in general (although I really only dipped my toe in the huge lake that Texas is). There were trains and diners and Dairy Queens, the hospitality of a church and Fire Stations. There was El espinazo del diablo. All things that I had wanted to experience, had been aware of.

From now on that changes. My to do list has one item left on it! And that's a road in Colombia.

I've not read anything nearly as much about the rest of the way to "El fin del Mundo" as I have to this point. I've read accounts of bike trips but haven't visualised and inspired myself as I did for the previous stages. 
From now on, I'm painting onto a blank canvas as opposed to colouring by numbers.
It's scary, certainly, but also exciting and liberating! 
What that means is that there is no definite route in my mind. I have limitations in terms of visas, security and climate that will have impact, but decisions about destinations and routes will be made on the fly.
I've done more and more of this style of touring as time has gone on, although never on such a massive scale. It wouldn't have been unusual for me to head off on a circle route some weekend and wander off it half-way through the first day. Instead of heading north, I might turn south for some Belgian frijtes. Instead of heading to the sea, I might turn east and head for some currywurst!
There's wonderful advantages to that type of touring, but there's always the disadvantage too - a lack of a definite goal may mean that it is never achieved!

I'd like to get to Ushuaia - it would be an interesting place to have been, but there is not a burning desire to get there, as there was with Nashville or Austin, for example. I don't intend on rushing past places, or people, that speak to me simply because the goal is Ushuaia. 
My goal for the next stage is simply to take on board as much as I can from the journey. Hopefully, it will be enjoyable, but honestly, that is unlikely to be the case all the time. Maybe I'm just dumb, but misery and suffering can have its benefits too!

So….. if you are finding yourself frustrated with my progress, or lack of it, or my wandering around, well that's just tough! You think you can do it better? Be my guest! 

My general plan is to head south towards Puerto Vallarta, then inland to Guadalajara. I'll head a bit south, then do a loop around Mexico City, going around on the Northern side, west to east. Everyone I've spoken to has said Mexico City is a must visit so I'll either pop in on the bike or take a bus. Then south towards Pueblo, further south to Oaxaca and as far as Comitán near the Guatemala border. At that point I'll either head south into Guatemala or turn east and head into Yucatan to explore the Mayan history of the region. I'll figure that out closer to the time.
But that could change tomorrow! 

Central America has taken up more of my thoughts recently. One of the three cyclists I met on my way to Mazatlãn expressed surprise that I planned to cycle there. The El Salvadorean army walked into their parliament the other day, fully armed, when the parliament was debating increasing their budget. MS13 attacked a court and freed one of their leaders a couple of days ago in Honduras. 
Further south, Colombia has been heating up for a while. There's a three day travel ban enforced by rebels currently taking place in some regions.

It seems like my adventure is only begining!


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Feb 2020)

Day 157, Saturday, February 15, 2020, Mazatlãn to El Rosario 75km

Min meters -69, Max Meters 95, Total Climb 515, Total Descent 481

Getting back on a loaded bike after a month off takes a bit of practise. Scratch that. The practise actually starts with packing the panniers. A regular system, honed after months on the road fell apart from lack of use once I started packing!

A few blogs I had read mentioned that Ruta 15 had no shoulder and was very busy. These bloggers regretted not taking the cuota (toll road). I'd discussed this with my homestay host and he suggested the Libre (free) because the Govt. were no longer collecting tolls - the locals instead sought a voluntary contribution. In effect, this meant that the toll road was virtually free and as a result busier than the Libre.

In any case I knew 15 had a shoulder as far as Villa Union and I could postpone a decision until then.

I decided to ignore my planned route after about 50 meters! I wanted one last ride along the Malecon.

_*Introducing Mazi, my new travelling buddy! 😀





*_

Getting out of Mazatlãn was surprisingly straightforward, if not bumpy and exciting at times. It wasn't long until I was on the familiar (for me) Ruta 15 heading towards Villa Union.

The last time I went through Villa Union I had planned to stop and eat, but my excitement at almost reaching the ocean drove me on. Today, there was no hesitation - I stopped and ate three delicious tacos washed down with a Coke. 

On the way in to Villa Union I had met two road cyclists. As it turns out they were on a 300km randonee having started at 6am! They had to go up to Concordia before looping around to El Rosario, my destination for the night. I sure did not envy them! They did advise me to take the cuota, though. So I did!

This one was only a two lane, although it had a lovely wide and clean shoulder. Blissful riding. Traffic was light and tended to come in bursts. 





The first thing I noticed was the multiple stalls along the road selling bags of prawns. Picture the scene….a table stacked high with sealed bags of prawns, a parasol and a man or woman sitting in the shade. Gizmo was showing 30+C! I wouldn't be eating those prawns!

It got progressively warmer until Gizmo broke 40C! Most of the time I was fine, tipping along at a reasonable pace, the wind keeping me cool. But there were some hills, or perhaps, more accurately valleys. If the climb was too steep and I slowed down too much I really, really felt the heat.

There were lots of places where I could stop, and where they coincided with shade I took advantage. 






Having not ridden any distance worth talking about in the past month I was happy enough with my progress. As I closed in on El Rosario I even started to consider continuing on to the next town another 25km down the road. 

*Tequila Country!*





However, the heat was taking it's toll and about 5km from El Rosario I pulled in under a bridge for a long rest in the shade. It was then that I noticed my flag was gone again! It had been one of my jobs to make it more secure and I thought it was bomb proof. Tsss! Dumbass! 

It was most likely knocked out on the outskirts of Mazatlãn and there was no way I was going back! I'll sort some kind of an alternative out further down the road.

Eventually I rolled off again in the cooler 30sC and decided to check out El Rosario, get some water and if I wanted to I still had time (just about) to continue on.

The toll booth was manned alright, but when I stopped to lug my bike onto the path (to avoid the sensor) I was just waved on through. The man and woman sitting at the booth were most certainly not government employees!

The first thing about El Rosario that struck me was a fantastic looking cemetery. There was a nice vibe to the place and as I cycled along I decided that this was worth exploring. I found a cheap hotel, checked in and went exploring. 

I reckoned I had an hour or so of daylight so headed straight to the old cemetery. It's in a very poor state given that the latest burial I could find was 2004, but some of the monuments date back to the late 1880s. 





As well as a couple of dogs and a cat there are some chickens wandering around. After that I went off seeking a ruin that I had glimpsed on the way in. Unfortunately, parts of it have recently fallen and tape is up barring entry. I can't even tell what it was, but it was certainly impressive.





Then it was popping hither and tither on the bike checking out the town.










Near the cemetery I had seen quite a few roadside restaurants setting up so I toddled back for my dinner. They hadn't been setting up…..they had been closing down! Back towards the hotel to another cart and I had the most delicious quesadillas with meat fresh from the grill. I managed to do the whole thing in Spanish (which made me immensely proud!) even asking which of the two sauces was the most spicy. (We'll ignore the fact that one of the sauces was guacamole!)

Let me take a moment to describe the scene. It's less than 10 meters from a t-junction on the minor road. There's a large trolley containing a grill, with a roof.

There are five guys either cooking meat, preparing meat for cooking or chopping vegetables. Beside the trolley there are two tables with benches, also under a roof. Behind, there are several cool boxes containing cold drinks, meat, veggies, sauces etc. There's no menus. One of the guys was most helpful demonstrating what they could do for me.
Once I ordered, 6 bowls were dropped on my table with guacamole, two other sauces, a chopped tomato and herb salad, cucumber & radish slices and limes. Also on the table are napkins. I'll be getting no cutlery. There's a lot of eating with hands here!
When my quesadillas arrive they are on a plate wrapped inside a plastic bag. (When I'm finished, they just whip the bag off and put the plate in a new one!)
There's no electricity. There's no huge choice. 
And the food??? Delicious!

I love the simplicity of the whole operation. 

My hotel room is about as basic as they come. My door doesn't even have a key! The lady told me it was perfectly safe, that she was there the whole time. To be honest, I had no qualms about leaving my gear in the place when I went off exploring. 

Still not sure where I'm off to tomorrow! For the time being I may try to head off at first light with a view to taking a break during the hottest part of the day. Cycling at about 40C is not a lot of fun if it goes on too long! 

Tomorrow I'll have some Spanish verbs and other words so I can practise different tenses as I cycle! 






For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Feb 2020)

Day 158, Sunday, February 16, 2020, El Rosario to Acaponeta 89km

Min meters -8, Max Meters 88, Total Climb 416, Total Descent 354

Today's opening lines contains a phrase I never thought I'd be writing down - I'm waiting for a newly married couple to come of the local church. I've no idea who they are, yet feel strangely captivated by their monumentous ceremony! More later!

Looking in the mirror last night it was pretty evident that I got some sun yesterday! This morning one of the first things I did was to smear my face and neck in factor 50 sun cream! Believe it or not, that's the first sun cream I've applied on this trip. I find that once I'm moving and there's a bit of wind I tend not to burn despite my relatively pale complexion. Nothing pale about my face this morning, though! 😀

I was awake about 6 am after a fairly decent sleep. I got myself together while waiting for the sun to wake up.

Setting off, the first thing I noticed was a slightly sensitive derrière - not surprising really after being off the bike for so long.

I didn't get very far before stopping at a bakery for breakfast, then a filling station for water.

I'd decided to continue on the cuota, at least for the first 30km or so. Then the two versions of 15 merge for a little while before separating.

Setting off, Gizmo was already showing 23C and that climbed steadily all morning.





The road was busy, certainly, but I had the decent shoulder to myself.





Now that I'm back on the road I've noticed a massive drop off of motivational beeps and waves. 

I ticked along steadily, stopping regularly for water and a breather. When the two 15s merged they formed a dual carriageway with a shoulder. Right on cue at 35km there was a line of roadside restaurants and two separate checkpoints. One was for tax, the other was pulling random cars over and searching them. I was waved through both so pulled up for another breakfast. Despite advertising all kinds of food, I could only have chorizo & eggs - fine by me!

When I sat down at the little table to eat I was surprised when I received so many tortillas. The mystery was quickly solved when the cook's daughter sat down beside me! Then the cook herself joined me! It appeared that since she had to cook for me she cooked for themselves too! Unfortunately, they were too engrossed in their phones to give me a chance to practise my Español. 

When it was time to leave the temperature had risen above 40C again! When the sun slipped behind a cloud for a few minutes it was pure Bliss!





I'd pretty much decided to opt for the shoulderless Libre simply because there were little towns along the road. Sticking with the cuota meant no services for 60km. In this heat I'd prefer my services. Coming up to the turn off I had no reason to change my mind - the trucks took the toll road as did most of the other traffic.

Immediately the landscape changed, or to put it more accurately, the landscape didn't change, I was just closer to it.

This part of the world is very green, a lush, healthy green. 





The surface might be a little tougher and the hills a little longer, but the cycling, or rather, the travelling is nicer. More hills, more bends, more interesting, generally. The traffic was very light as well.

But it was hot! 





Bang on cue after another 20km I came to a little village, bought a Coke and an icecream and plonked myself down in the shade.

While sitting there, on the path, the lady next door came out to sweep her path. Next thing she's sitting down beside me for a chat! Woohoo! A chance to practise my Español! 

I can't say I covered myself in glory but I certainly didn't disgrace myself! When I asked her to slow down she was very careful to start every sentence slowly. However, about half way through her natural tempo kicked in and I was hearing gibberish! Despite that, it was pleasant and interesting. She wanted to know why I had no kids - hard enough to answer in English!, why I didn't have a wife - ditto! I didn't feel interrogated, I'd just met someone who was naturally curious.

I really let myself down at the little shop, though! I'm having problems with the teens and the "ty's", especially from fifty upwards. Buying a Coke I proudly counted out my coins (in Spanish) up to fifty to be told I was wrong! They gave me back thirty five pesos - I was mortified!

The next little town is another 20km away, I'll be taking a break here for another while. It's too darn hot!

After writing that I took out my Kindle and started reading Paul Theroux's account of travelling to Patagonia by train. I've read snippets from it before in another of his books, so thought it might be an idea to check out the original. The hard pavement meant that I slowly slithered down until I was practically horizontal! Of course, that meant that I was almost drifting off to the land of nod! My friendly neighbour brought me back to this world when she was leaving so I climbed back aboard for the last stage to Acaponeta.

The temperature had dropped about 10C - it was now only 31 or 32 and the wind had picked up. The fact that it was a headwind didn't register - it was cooling!

The road was deathly quiet and interesting to ride along. Bends, hills, developed land, undeveloped land. And it all seemed quite close.





Not for the first time today I found myself pulling the brakes going down a hill. Not because I was going too fast or it was dangerous, simply because the wind was so nice I wanted to extend it as long as possible!

I crossed into a new state, Nayarit and not long later turned off 15 to go to Acaponeta.

There's a few hotels there but using IOverlander as a reference I found probably the cheapest. I've read a few complaints but for 250 pesos I can't complain. The lady at check in was most friendly and patient with me as I stumbled & tripped over my words. In my defence, I was very hot, more than a bit tired and probably a bit dehydrated. I dropped my bags in my room, walked across the town square to an Oxxo, got a beer & sat in the square to revive myself.

You know, Mexico has it's problems but I'm fairly sure that having a beer in public on a hot day has no bearing on them. That very same act in the US would get me arrested (unless I hid my beer in a paper bag!) - of course so long as I wasn't in a dry county!

When I say square, it's actually a little park with a fountain, lots of plants and seats. All around it are little food stalls and the atmosphere is simply wonderful. 





Feeling a little lightheaded I went back to the hotel, stopping to check out the view from the balcony at the top. The hotel is right beside the church where a bride, dressed in red, was waiting to enter.

I had a shower and did some laundry, got some fresh clothes and set off to hunt down some dinner. 

The poor bride was still outside! I wandered over and watched as the priest blessed herself and her bridesmaids and anyone, it seemed, who was in the area. Then, with incense lit, a little procession set off up the aisle, some people with a book (Bible?), a cross, the priest and his incense and finally the bride, accompanied by a guy on a guitar and an amazing female vocalist.

Inside the Church is spectacular! It has the most wonderful colour scheme of a vital blue and a yellow that just seems to shout life and energy. I don't recall coming across such a colour scheme in a church before.

The church was full and there were many onlookers outside as well. 

At that point I wandered off for dinner heading for a stall that had the most wonderful aromas. I ordered four quesadillas, two with chorizo and two with beef. Ah. Words fail me! Made with such care right in front of me by two ladies, one of whom kept an eye on me warning which of the sauces were spicy! I'm obviously foreign so need to be protected! 😀 An interesting thing too, was that my two quesadillas with chorizo were served first. Only when I was finished were the other two served! Far swankier places in the US couldn't figure out that element of service!

After that it was a little walk around, then some ice cream. It's a wonderful privilege to drop into these little towns, be accepted and to get to see what everyday life is like. 





The Bride & Groom finally came out to absolutely no fanfare! Most of the guests had left as the couple stayed inside the Church for photos. Outside, it was a case of hanging around for a few minutes and then walking off. My take on the whole thing is that the Church ceremony is the main thing. The Bride was certainly not a small lady, but the Groom, however, was the metaphorical stick insect!

I did sneak into the church at the end and it really is a wonderful building - bright and cheerful. 

I was thinking today of what I could do to make sure I have an early start in the morning. Step one was having an early night, but since I arrived I have not stopped smiling and it seems like such a waste to rush out of here! Tomorrow might be a short day!

For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Feb 2020)

Day 159, Monday, February 17, 2020, Acaponeta to Las Peñitas 68km

Min meters 22, Max Meters 123, Total Climb 387, Total Descent 335

I slept well last night until I didn't. Having bought a couple of beers I sat on the upstairs terrace of the hotel, posted yesterday's update and enjoyed watching the little town wind down for the night. I turned in about 11pm, much later than I had planned, fell straight asleep and stayed that way until about 2:30. After waking up I found it very difficult to get back to sleep. Result? A not terribly well rested me.

The morning was pleasantly cool and I rolled out of town to rejoin 15 again. At the junction I stopped for breakfast at one of the many stands and enjoyed a coffee while watching all the hustle and bustle. This was where buses, pickups and all manner of vehicles were picking up people to bring them to their day's work. 





Heading off I was pleased to note a strong headwind and the fact that a lot of cloud was blotting out the sun. I quickly had a choice of the Libre or Cuota and opted to stay on the Libre for the same reason as yesterday - services.

It being a Monday the traffic was heavier, but nothing uncomfortable. The landscape was lush and interesting if not spectacular. Mountains not too far off in the distance were shrouded in a heat haze despite the fact that today is definitely cooler.





I've two options today, one about 50km down the road, the other about 100km. When I get to my first option I'll see how I'm feeling.

This is an agricultural area with signs of life regularly along the road. There's people out working too, either on the road, clearing scrub or tending to trees. I'm pleased to report that there's been a jump in positive beeps today, but the really striking thing is the quality of the greetings from people along the way. There are throaty roars and cheers, cries of "animo" (which I'm assuming is a compliment!), waves that begin at the hip to get as much power into the arm swing and smiles that are as bright as the sun burning me at over 40C. They use their whole face to smile here, not just their mouths. Eyes light up and twinkle just as brightly as the mouths. There's a depth and genuineness (if that's even a word!) that I think is wonderful. It is certainly inspiring and motivational.





At about the 20km mark the sun came out and at about the 25km mark I came to a little place to stop and rest in the shade. Heading off again the sun was out and the temperature slowly climbed back up to 40. In contrast to yesterday, the wind was quite strong and I welcomed it, even if it was slowing me down.





Close to 1pm I came to Rosamorada, one of my options for the day. I had seen the twin spires of the church from the road and that probably would have drawn me in anyway. Up close it's a little neglected, but inside it is bright and airy.





Sitting here in the plaza opposite the church yet another lady sat down beside me for a chat! Not as demanding as yesterday, but I acquitted myself ok, I think. 

Having read different accounts over the years of cyclists passing through this part of the world, many have camped in the town plaza or square. I've a better understanding of that now since most have a covered bandstand and normally a room underneath it too - perfect for protection from the elements. Something I must add to my to-do list.

When the clock struck three I roused myself and slowly got aboard Roccado. I was feeling a bit stiff!

I set off recrossing the train tracks at the edge of town - an adventure in itself - and turned down the road. I was heading for the small town of Las Peñitas another 20km down the road. The temperature had dropped to the mid thirties and the wind had picked up. There was thin cloud cover so the sun was still doing its thing!





The water in both my (bike) bottles had warmed up so much as to be almost undrinkable. I broke into my half liter reserve in my pannier a few times.





Traffic was heavier, but the majority were excellent at waiting to overtake. The rolling hills of earlier became a relatively flat road and I rolled happily along. Before I really knew it I was in
Las Peñitas, a small, rural town. The hotel was at the end of another road and I checked in with no problems. I sucked down a liter of ice cold water, then hopped back into the town to get some food. I've decided to cook tonight - more as a means of lightening my load than any comment on the eateries here. First stop was some agua de coco - coconut juice! Delicious! I couldn't see an open fruit shop - I'd been hoping for an avocado, so went into the Oxxo for water, chorizo & eggs.

I couldn't find any eggs and may have said the wrong thing when asking for them! I rolled back to the hotel, took out the trangia and cooked off the chorizo, then mixed it into frijoles (refried beans). Wrapped up as a taco - delicious! 

It's happened once before that when removing the lid of the Trangia burner the rubber seal stays on the burner. After the first time I'm always careful, but not careful enough today! Another rubber ring gone!

The hotel has a lovely courtyard where I sat and cooked and am sitting now writing this.

I'm about 70km from Tepic but I'm not sure about the climbing. Google maps will tell me I climb 300m and descend 1200m which means Tepic is 8-900m below sea level.

Cycle.travel has it perfectly flat to just outside Tepic, then a 1500m jump with the max climb of 128%! Bummer - with my gearing the max I can manage is 125% 😀 In fairness to cycle.travel it's not designed for use in Mexico although I can still get it to work.

At some point tomorrow I'll have the chance to rejoin the cuota which will make sense if there's a lot of climbing - the shoulder will be invaluable.

In any case, I'm prepping for an early start.


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Feb 2020)

Day 160, Tuesday, February 18, 2020, Las Peñitas to Tepic 69km

Min meters 17, Max Meters 1035, Total Climb 1486, Total Descent 631

It was bound to happen sometime - a thoroughly awful day. There were several times during the day that I was sure that it was the worst day on a bike….ever! And that includes the day I fell off in Spain. As is usual in these cases, it wasn't one thing that was the problem, it was multiple things.

I had another of those "sleep a bit, then wake up" nights and when the sun was starting to light up the sky I was brewing coffee and making porridge. My neighbours who had arrived after I turned in the night before were unfazed to see someone with a kitchen set up on the terrace outside. The man did chat with me, at first confusing a child's bike for my mode of transport!





Unfortunately for me, the one morning I'm up, fed & watered when it's bright enough to cycle was also the morning of dense fog. I took my time getting ready and slowly headed off.





Visibility was enough for me to be seen on the road, but not good enough to see the mountains all around. At that time of the morning the road was busy, but I had no reason to be particularly anxious.

The plan was simple - about 70km to Tepic. The first 35km on the Libre, then join the Cuota and climb into Tepic. The morning was cool, I was on the road as early as was safe - Everything was looking good!





The only problem with the fog and the dense cloud cover was that it was very humid. After about 12km I pulled into a filling station for a cold drink feeling a little spent. The traffic was heavy and the road was either rising or falling.

However, I may just have discovered the greatest little Pemex! They had a solitary speaker set up outside that was playing the most wonderful ballads! Most were distinctly sad, and one in particular was mesmerising. I've no idea what the lyrics are, but he definitely missed her, his life is empty without her. His accordian is weeping for her. It's a wonderful, haunting human sound. The perfect combination of voice, theme and instrument. Given the day I had ahead of me I really shouldn't have hung around, but the music was just so calming and good I couldn't resist staying around for a few more songs!

Feeling a bit better I set off again. Ever since I started again in Mazatlán my legs have been much stiffer than normal. I was finding the going quite tough. Then, a little later I could feel the humidity lifting as the sun burned off the cloud cover and then the fog. Where a few minutes before a murky grey draped the landscape, now that self same landscape was a brilliant, luscious green, illuminated by an energetic sun in a brilliant blue sky. 






I started to power up without the humidity, enjoying the freshness in the air. Unfortunately, that didn't last too long as the temperature rose steadily until one torment replaced another.





At the 30km mark, the cuota merged with the libre and at the 35km mark a line of small businesses appeared along the road. There really was no thinking to be done - I had to stop. I was hot, tired, thirsty and lacking confidence in being able to make it to Tepic. 

In front of one roadside stand I spied a sign advertising fresh coconuts. That was that settled, then!

I pulled up in front of the fruit stand, but actually it was the guy behind who had the coconuts. Gasping I explained my desire for "agua de Coco" and I was presented with a cold plastic bag of the delicious juice. Ripping the bag open like a local I started to suck the life restoring agua Vida down - only to make a hames of it and have juice flowing down my chin! My new amigo smiled and offered me a straw! I sat down on a low wall and finished the second half of my bag with a little more decorum. I even managed to have a little chat too! Once finished, I focused on the fruit stand and saw big, plastic cups of all kinds of exotic fruit. I'm not a fruit fan, but these looked irresistible! I approached the lady for one and without really thinking agreed to salt and lime juice…..but what was I thinking about chili??

I'm glad I was a bit ditzy because it was a fascinating experience! My first taste had my poor body convulsing with the shock of the bitter lime juice, the salt and the hot chili. It gave a laugh to my coconut amigo, the fruit lady and her colleague who was running a food stand. After that my palate adjusted and I slowly savoured mango, pineapple, orange, coconut papaya and possibly something else all soaked in lime, salt and chili. 

While sitting, resting and eating I had a chance to watch Mexican microeconomics in action. Two deliveries were made by adapted motorbike - one of fresh tortillas and another of cheese - for the food stand beside me. Both times payment was in cash, no receipt nor invoice. A pickup pulled up for the fruit lady but she declined what was offered. Mobile phones were very important and quantities were small. When you're operating a stall on the side of the road, most likely with no power, storage is very limited. 

Labour is obviously cheap otherwise such operations cannot survive nor offer a living. I'll see that with work crews on the road, too. A couple of days ago I passed eight guys working on clearing the side of the road, hacking at tall grass and sweeping debris off the side of the road. Their tools were a pickup, machetes and brooms. In Europe it would be one, possibly two big machines and as many men. 

The coconut guy had two little kids with him, the eldest I reckon was just below school age, the younger wasn't more than three. The three year old had to be watched like a hawk - this was beside a busy road, but the older was roaming as he pleased - again, very different from my own experience.

Even though I knew I was hungry I couldn't face the thought of food so I prepared to get ready to leave. Some newcomers were all questions about my trip. I always try to mention what a positive experience I am having in Mexico, especially in contrast to what people said on the way to Mexico. Without fail, people are very appreciative, often puff out a bit with pride and thus far have never had a bad word to say about Americans and their opinions. 

I set off again, but once out of the shade the full force of the sun hit me. Within one km I was wilting again. In another km the road was splitting again and I knew I couldn't go on the cuota like this so I pulled into a restaurant for a rest in the shade and to have some food. 

At about 3pm I started to get organised for the last push to Tepic, stocking up on cold water at a filling station. No more services until Tepic. 





I had less than 30km to go, normally something I'd be totally confident about, but not today. 

Along with the heat I was developing what I presume is a saddle sore - or at least a very sensitive spot on my ass. I don't think I've ever had a saddle sore and this was just adding to my general sense of malaise.

The route would climb, then drop, only to climb again. I knew Tepic was at about 900 meters and I'd started at about 20 or 30. I'd climb towards 400 then at about 390 drop down only to start up again. At least there was shade and with the shoulder I could stop at will. 

So it went, slowly gaining altitude, stopping regularly for a rest and water, the km markers slowly getting lower and lower. 

With about 11 km to go I knew I was in trouble. I was ascending a long curve slowly that thankfully was in the shade when I realised I was feeling very, very hot, but in a different way from before. It was like I was being cooked from the inside. Looking up ahead I could see the road turn in the opposite direction - into the sun - and the shoulder disappeared. I pulled in, locked the brakes and just straddled the bike. Both my legs were trembling violently, I was feeling lightheaded and the thought of water made me nauseous. I parked the bike and sat down in the ditch. I just couldn't summon the energy to do anything else.

I reckon I was there for over an hour, just trying to cool down, watching the trucks labouring up the hill that was stumping me. I tried drinking, but anything more than a sip was impossible. Strangely, my mouth would dry out almost immediately after drinking. I took to pouring some water over me to cool me down. 

By now I knew that I'd be getting into Tepic after dark - not something I was relishing. Even if I saw a spot to throw up the tent I didn't have enough water. Even though I didn't want water, I knew I'd need more than what I had during the night. 

Setting off again I was glad to see that I only lost the shoulder for a couple of hundred meters. At one stage I felt a cool wind and noticed some radio antennae beside me. I was at the top of the climb!!! It was all downhill now!

Except it wasn't. I arrived at the toll booths - these manned by locals too, a little tent village set up. I was waved on through and started another climb. Shortly after the two 15s merged and became more interesting. I was still stopping regularly and now had my lights on.

On the edge of the city I saw a Pemex and pulled in. I bought a Danish and some Gatorade and sat down at a little table. I felt a whole lot better after them and a guy came over to talk. Thankfully, he wanted to use his English, because my brain was gone. As nice as he was I couldn't really concentrate. He was offering recommendations for restaurants and hotels that I just could not process.

I knew where I wanted to go, a new hostel that seemed straightforward to get to. By now it was pitch dark, no streetlights, my shoulder disappeared so I walked my bike over rubble along the road for about a km until a shoulder re-emerged. Hopping on, I set off on the last leg. Thankfully, Tepic was an exception to most Mexican cities in that the surface was reasonably good. In my confused state I missed a turn and had to cross a busy 4 lane dual carriageway. That took about twenty minutes! 

Finally, at last, I rolled up to my destination, a surprisingly fancy and trendy place. Soaking wet, bedraggled and panting I was an alien amongst the trendy set in the open air restaurant. I took a private room, staggered into the shower and downstairs for dinner.







For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Feb 2020)

Day 161-2, Wednesday-Thursday, February 19-20, 2020, Rest & Recovery in Tepic. 0km

The hotel/hostel is certainly a little odd. It's definitely new, modern in what would be described as Boutique style. The restaurant is busy, the menu a blend of Mexican and European influences. The only beer is a boutique coffee stout - hardly ideal in these temperatures. The clientele is definitely of the young and trendy set - I fit right in!

Upstairs is split between two dorms and two private rooms. Bright, clean, orthopedic mattresses it's certainly a significant step up on some of the other places, yet the lack of a fan in the rooms is remarkable because this is the first room without one! And it is noisy!

Everyone is very friendly and very keen to speak in English, so much so that I'm having to request Spanish only!

It was nice to wake up after 8 am and not immediately feel the need to jump up and get going. I'd pretty much made up my mind the night before that I was going to take a rest day, but I went through the motions anyway;
Sore legs? Check!
Sore ass? Check!
Rest day? Check!

So, I rolled out of bed and wandered down for breakfast. I had some lovely coffee, eggs, chorizo & refried beans then sat back and savoured a relaxing morning. I'd brought my Kindle, stopping reading when Theroux crossed the border into Guatemala - lots of time for that later - and dug into one of the Mexican history books I have.

My understanding of Mexican history is, to put it very gently, lacking. I'm aware of the Mayan, Inca & Aztec civilisations of this part of the world, have the most basic understanding of the Spanish conquests, and know very little about contemporary Mexico. I had tried to read about it previously, but I found it hard to concentrate when the location was very abstract. It's not so abstract now!

I had an endless supply of coffee while I read for another hour or so, then eventually roused myself to have a shower and take a wander downtown. Strangely, I was close the centre of a large city yet had seen none of it!





I had a choice of routes into the centre so took a meandering exploration. I stopped off at a former convent (although I think abbey or Monastery might be more accurate). It is now the state Tourism co-ordination office and I was greeted by a stunning lady who was more interested in hearing my adventures than telling me the history of the place - of course, I was happy to indulge her! I wandered into the attached church, where the founding monk is buried. While looking at the simple altar a wizened, shrunken lady came up to me pointing out where the abbot was buried. I thanked her but she followed me then made a point of tapping the collection box located on the railing. Perhaps the Government warnings should include little old ladies in churches!





I walked along and through a wonderful park that has an open air cinema! They really like their Plazas and Parks in this part of the world. They are uniformly respected and maintained and receive a lot of use.





Hitting the old centre there was another couple of Plazas, one opposite the Governor's offices, one opposite the Cathedral. All around were little side streets full of little stores and stalls.





Some of the stores are absolutely tiny, perhaps two or three meters wide and extending back maybe five meters. There is a large number of indigenous crafts for sale, jewellery, leatherwork and the likes. Lots of bright, vibrant colours.





There must be at least 50 shoe shine chairs in operation in the plaza opposite the Cathedral - another example, I suppose, of microeconomics in action. Every large town has these. As I walk past them the eyes of the shoe shiner drop to my feet to see if I'm a potential customer.

Closer to the river there is an open air market of sorts, often just a covering on the ground with clothes, shoes, tools or old appliances offered up for sale.





On one street there were a lot of clothing stores and something seemed a bit strange about them that I couldn't quite put my finger on. Eventually, the penny dropped! The half mannequins used for jeans were backwards - the ass being visible, not the front! I've also learned that "Colombian" style jeans do for the ass what Wonderbras do for parts further north; Every day is a learning day!

I also visited the regional history museum which thankfully had a decent amount of English information.










It showed the history of the region through a variety of stages and had some very interesting examples of pottery, jewellery and even recreations of burial chambers.

I can understand that a lot can be deduced when a burial chamber is discovered in terms of culture, religious beliefs and technological development based on what is included in the chamber, but skeletons can be analysed in ways that point to diet, health and illnesses of the time. 

In other areas of the museum were the remains of a giant mammoth, an exhibition on the restoration of statues found in very poor repair (it looked particularly interesting, but lacked English translations) and an exhibition on Peote, a type of cactus famed for its hallucigenic properties. It is a part of this region's culture going back thousands of years. All in all, a worthwhile visit.

I grabbed a coffee and people watched for a while. Town was very busy, nobody seemed too affected by the heat, unlike myself.

I bought a sun hat because I'm definitely going to need one whenever I'm not on the bike. If I didn't stand out as a foreigner before now, I sure as Hell do now!

I slowly took a different route back to the hotel, wandering up and down little streets at will. I didn't quite feel comfortable in the restaurant the night before, do decided to grab a pizza and a beer to eat back in my room. Unfortunately, there was a two for one offer - order 1, get 2. It was not possible to explain I only wanted one. My offer that the staff could have my second one was treated with the enthusiasm one would expect from people who work in a pizzaria! In the end I got two small ones.

Back in my room I started to look at my map but couldn't focus so lay down and enjoyed some Netflix. Atypical is surprisingly good and has some real Laugh Out Loud moments! I recall reading blogs and being surprised when people on long tours would do that. Honestly, now I can understand it fully. There are limits to just how much strangeness I can take on board. Right now, I'm drained and exhausted; exploration needs to take a back seat for a little while.

Update:
The next morning I didn't need to work hard to convince myself to take another day off. It was almost 9 when I woke up, my legs were still sore, and the sun was already shining brightly. Cue a second morning of leisurely coffee and reading, followed by another walk.

I'd bought a pair of croc imitations in Mazatlán but the straps have broken off on both. With these temperatures the combination of sweaty feet and slippy crocs means that I regularly lose one or the other when getting on or off the bike. Today, I picked up a pair of sandals to replace them.

I have to say that I'm already doubting the rough route I had mapped out for myself in Mazatlán. I'm finding the heat to be very sapping. I've cycled in 40C before in Northern Spain and managed fine, but that was mainly along the coast where humidity wasn't a factor and a refreshing wind was blowing. There is no coastal road from Mazatlán south along the coast. Yesterday was the first opportunity to take a road west to the coast that would let me continue by the coast. Of course, that's a more direct route to Guatemala, missing out everything else in Mexico.

I'm hoping a substantial part of my bad reaction is due to my month off in Mazatlán and that I'll find my biking legs again soon. If not, I'll have to consider heading directly south. That will have the advantage of cutting short my exposure to the rainy season further down the road.

If it sounds like I'm complaining - I'm not. I'm just trying to record what it's like. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't worried at times on the road to Tepic, but at the same time, it's all part of the adventure. There's only so much that can be prepared for, the rest has to be dealt with as it happens. It's the whole "solo or not" debate in microcosm - Being solo I can stop for a couple of days without any problem, however, it also means I've no support along with me.

I do have to say, too, that I feel quite secure and safe here in Mexico. I'm confident that if I needed to, I could have stuck out my thumb and someone would have stopped to give me a lift. I'm just absolutely rubbish at asking for help! Something else for my to-do list!

I'm finding it very interesting how quickly being in Mexico becomes "normal", emphasised when every now and then the fact hits me - I'm in Mexico!

Today, while wandering in the park Adolfus approached me with his two kids. I obviously stand out as a foreigner and having lived in North Carolina he wanted to try out his English. His face lit up with such delight when I told him what I was doing and we figured out that I'd cycled where he used to live! These moments of connection are really wonderful. People are so genuine and the idea of a long bike trip is so far from the normal yet so romantic it's impossible not to be encouraged and remotivated by them. It's also a very good reminder of just how lucky I am to be able to do this.
``
Later, back at the hotel and looking at routing options for tomorrow I began to feel the apprehension growing. Inspiration struck, I fired up YouTube and watched the tango scene from Scent of a Woman. It's not on my to-do list because it's more of a dream, but I want to learn to Tango in Argentina! One magical night in Vienna at the end of my first ever bike tour I watched people getting dance lessons on a temporary floor in a city park. Oh how I wanted to join in! Next time I will!

I'm ready for tomorrow now!


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Feb 2020)

Day 163, Friday, February 21, 2020, Tepic to Jula 70km

Min meters 949, Max Meters 1435, Total Climb 1157, Total Descent 1143


My alarm woke me up while it was still dark and I was still groggy. I showered, packed and moved all my gear downstairs, loaded up the bike and headed off. I'd spent a few minutes monitoring the traffic and all seemed good. I joined the flow with no problems and while there wasn't a shoulder for the first couple of km it wasn't missed. I rejoined 15 while still within the city limits and from then on had a shoulder most of the way out. A couple of guys wound down windows to have a chat as I cycled along. Hopefully all the bigger places will be like this to cycle in.

I pulled into a Pemex to top up my tyres and had a little chat with the attendant. Each pump is manned and they'll fill your tank, wash windscreens, top up your air - all for a tip. They don't seem pushy at all and it was no problem to roll up on my bike.

A little later I pulled into the last Oxxo for breakfast and got talking to a guy who spent twenty years working in Vegas. His English was excellent so it was a nice broad conversation. As usual, he was happy to hear my glowing review of Mexico, but abruptly warned me to never cycle at night! A little later he elaborated on the crime problems in Mexico, the levels of influence and corruption of the cartels and how it is now a much broader enterprise than just drugs. Oil and oil derivatives are now big business too. I was more than a little surprised that he was talking so openly in a public place about these things, but he didn't seem to be bothered at all.

Setting off again I was quickly on the Cuota and had a shoulder, slightly lower than the road itself and guarded by a rumble strip - a rarity in Mexico.





It's a 4 lane split highway and was reasonably busy, but I felt perfectly secure riding along.





Stopping under a bridge for shade I was not happy to see the trailer's tyre flat! I'd fixed a slow puncture in it in Mazatlán, but then the valve had been giving me problems. I removed the tube, pumped it up - and it stayed up! Argh!

I popped in a new tube, keeping the other one for emergencies only, then set off again.

It had been 25C at 8 am and now was in the 30s, but at least there was a wind. There was a fair bit of slow and steady climbing until I came to a toll plaza about 35km along. I pulled in for a cold drink, a rest and some snacks. No hot food anywhere! 

I rested up then set off again through the toll gates. This is another one taken over by locals so I'm just waved through. 

On the other side I commenced a long winding climb. I watched the temp on Gizmo rise from mid 30s to 47C! At that point I started looking for shade! There's not a lot when the sun is directly overhead but passing by a cliff I saw enough for the bike and me to sit down. 

I'm going to wait for the sun to move before I go any further.

I stayed there until 15:30, a good two hours. When I set off again it was cooler, but still in the high 30s. Today, I was stopping even more frequently than before and sipping water every time, as opposed to taking a long drink. It seemed to work better as a process. It's strange how within a couple of minutes of taking a drink the back of my throat and the roof of my mouth becomes sticky. If I swallow my throat closes and for a moment it seems like it will stay closed. Similarly, my tongue feels like it will stay stuck to the roof of my mouth.





The countryside is interesting, lots of green, rolling hills in the foreground, blue hills further back. Given the heat I'm surprised to see such greenery. Normally I'd be far more enthused by the countryside but this heat saps everything!





I seemed to be constantly climbing. I wasn't the only one having problems - many of the trucks were labouring too. A lot of the older ones crawled past me moving barely twice my speed with engines screaming in protest.





I had picked out the small town of Jala as the first of my likely destinations and at this stage it was looking like it was my only option. In my sweat-soaked, heat-addled condition I had misread the scale on Gizmo. Instead of being about 5km away I was about 20km!! 





Immediately I started scanning for likely spots to camp because there was no way I'd make it before dark. As luck would have it, this coincided with what I think is a volcanic valley because both sides of the road were covered in strange rocks. Not a hope of pitching a tent. I did come across one spot but rejected it since it was too visible from the road. 





I wasn't particularly worried, just frustrated that this is proving harder and slower than I had expected. I'm just really glad that I don't have a deadline to be anywhere. I'm understanding that this heat is a little out of the normal - poor old Durango, in the mountains, is suffering from unusually low temperatures. 





Just when all hope of reaching Jala in daylight were gone, I crested a hill to meet a sign warning of dangerous descents for the next 8km!!

Wahoo!!!

I pulled in, switched on all my lights and headed down. Oh! The pleasure! It was so cool! I even started to feel a little cold! I had to focus though - the shoulder was fine at low speed, descending in fading light made it trickier. When it finally levelled off I didn't have far to go to turn off for Jala. The hotel is right on the edge of town, there's a little restaurant opposite. I am sorted!











For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

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## HobbesOnTour (24 Feb 2020)

Day 164, Saturday, February 22, 2020, Jula to Ixtlán del Rio 20km

Min meters 1011, Max Meters 1190, Total Climb 553, Total Descent 486

Last night was very simple. I had a shower, lay down for a little while then wandered across the road to a simple restaurant. I had a delicious meal of tacos and eggs washed down with a beer. I bought a bottle of cold water & returned to my room. Town was a good 15 minute walk and I had no energy. I got back to my room, lay down and promptly fell asleep. Unusually, I slept right through the night, waking about 6 am. I tried to get up, but failed, so rolled over again. I woke up about 8 and slowly started getting organised. My plan was to hit the town, look around, have a bite to eat and hit the road. I had a couple of options and one wasn't too far away.





Ha!

Rear tyre was flat as a pancake! This is a new tyre picked up in Mazatlán because the other one with the torn sidewall couldn't be repaired and I figured I had used up all my luck with it. The only tyre I could find was a Chinese brand with zero puncture protection.

I set about removing the tube and finding the hole. Once patched I checked the tyre and found the offending wire. Tiny! Then I loaded up and went to town. It's a pleasant place with a lovely cycle path into town. I stopped at the shadiest taco stand for breakfast then headed over to the Oxxo for more water. Soft rear tyre! Darn!!

I unpacked the bike, upended it, removed the wheel and took out the tube. I pumped it up but couldn't find a hole and the patch seemed good. I increased the pressure. Ditto. I paused for a coffee and in the time it took to drink it the tube softened again. Nothing for it but to replace the tube and investigate further when I have a bowl of water.





Setting off again I pulled into a Pemex to top up the air, having a chat with the attendant who was more interested in my marital status than my trip!

I left town and rejoined the cuota. Within minutes Gizmo was reading 40C! Today is going to be short!





There was a bit of wind which helped enormously with regulating the temperature, but there is no getting away from the fact that I am just not designed for these conditions! Progress was steady enough, except when climbing. Shade was pretty rare so it was a case of head down and grind it out.





There was a bit more variety to the landscape but I'm finding it hard to drum up the enthusiasm to enjoy it properly. Even stopping to take a photo is like someone switching on a grill over my head!





I was heading for a secondary option from yesterday, the town of Ixtlán del Rio. It has some ancient ruins that I thought would be good to visit. Before too long I got to ride past the town before turning off the cuota. I arrived into the old centre and sought out some agua de Coco. Delicious! Then I rode past the couple of hotels, turned around and rode the few Kms up and out of town to the ruins.





In these places they have a book that they want you to fill in with your personal info - name, origin etc. The museum in Tepic wanted my educational achievements and this one wanted my entry and exit times!

There are lots of these ruins in Mexico. Unfortunately most have been looted through the centuries, not just for valuables but for things like stone. This one has been restored to some level and while it's interesting, it doesn't (or at least it didn't for me) grab my attention.










Rather than being told that this is a three story building, I'd like to know what the building was (likely) for and how it was used. It seemed the only definitive buildings were altars. I wandered around and while it was pleasant, I probably got more enjoyment out of the different cacti!











Rolling back into town I checked into the cheapest hotel, had a shower and went for a wander. It's a busy place, the main plaza beside the main road through the town. It's sorrounded with little stores. Since I'm finding the going tough, I thought a little music might help me along in the heat. I realised I haven't even hummed anything in days! I've headphones but use them rarely on the road for safety reasons but also because they can tend to isolate me from people - and that's counterproductive in Mexico. I saw some portable speakers in a window & popped in. My old iPod doesn't do Bluetooth so I needed one with a cable. Not only was the lady in the shop very helpful, her colleague tested everything out on his phone, pointing out that the cable I'd selected had problems connecting with the speaker. He suggested a different, cheaper cable. Have to say, I was impressed!

I grabbed some empanadas for dinner, then got some pastries for breakfast. I'm planning on hitting the road early tomorrow.

While wandering around I came across another wedding at the local church! This one was a far more stylish affair, although there was no sign of the bride! She did eventually show up and was ushered inside quickly. Somehow, this one was a bit too "showy" and didn't pique my interest like the last one.

Then it was back to the hotel to check out that tube. I inflated it and found about 4 or 5 tiny holes all along the seam. Pffffft! Another tube gone!

Then an early night was had.


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2020)

Day 165, Sunday, February 23, 2020, Jula to Tequila 70km

Min meters 972, Max Meters 1309, Total Climb 1096, Total Descent 1193

Well, I woke up about 6 and was rolling out of the hotel by 7. The England v Ireland rugby match started at 8am so I was going to miss listening to that (not such a bad thing as things turned out!).

There wasn't a cloud in the sky and the sun was blinding me as I rode out of town. Back on to the cuota and straight back into the climbing! It was pleasantly cool, Gizmo showing 16C and steady progress was made. 





At the brow of one climb I took out my new speaker and gave it a go. Not great going downhill with the wind and passing trucks, but very pleasant going uphill - and there was a lot of that!

Back in the 80's there was a TV show "The Greatest American Hero" about a guy who was endowed with Superman style powers by mistake. He was a disaster, but the theme song was great. That came on the iPod as I was going downhill - one of those perfect unions of song and situation!





To say the last few days have been constant rolling hills would be too gentle a description, I think. Rolling is too soft a description for these, irrespective of the heat. I'm placated by the fact that many trucks and some buses have issues going up too.





I did have one longish descent, but the shoulder was very poor for most of it - a rumble strip in the middle and generally crap surface. 

After about 30km I came to a toll booth - an actual official one this time, so pulled over, hopped onto a path and breezed on through like a seasoned traveller. On the other side were food stands so I pulled in for tacos and a cold coke. 

When I got rolling again it was coming up to 11 am and hitting 40C. Then the real hard slog began. It seemed to be constant climbing. At least there was a strongish tailwind at times, appreciated more for its cooling properties than its assistance. At one stage I encountered another cyclist, a local, with his bike upturned and himself sitting on the side of the road. He was resting but had no water so I gave him half of mine. 





An hour or so later, almost out of water I came to a little shop & pulled in to rest and resupply with cold water.

There was an army convoy ahead of me in the queue. These guys were all heavily armed, so I was prepared to wait. I eventually got to pay for my water then plonked myself in the shade outside to rest up. A couple of the soldiers came over for a bit of a chat. To say they were bemused by my plans would be an understatement!

Setting off again I was now facing into a long, flat road. It didn't matter that the sun was blasting down, I was flying along at a normal pace for what seemed like the first time in days! I was delighted with myself! The kms were ticking along and when I passed the town of Magdalene I decided to continue on. I'd thought of staying there but I was enjoying the cycling for the first time in days.





Of course, after Magdalene the road started to rise again, but I was in much better form to deal with it. I could see my turn off for Tequila steadily getting closer. 





When it came I had to negotiate a toll booth then roll 5km downhill into town.

It's both pretty and busy. Lots and lots of hotels. The first one I picked at random had no-one at reception so I rolled down the street to another. It turned out to be an excellent choice, relatively cheap and very pleasant.





I shaved, showered and set off to wander around town. This is the centre of the Tequila industry and there are lots of interesting places to see. On top of that, there's a festival on tonight! How's that for planning? 





It seems even the cars run on tequila!







For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

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## HobbesOnTour (26 Feb 2020)

Day 166, Monday, February 24, 2020, Tourist day in Tequila 0km

I'm generally not a fan of touristy places. The more a place becomes touristy, the less it resembles itself and the visitor becomes a consumer rather than an absorber. I prefer to absorb.

*Indigenous people spinning down from a tree trunk in the plaza.*





Tequila, with its lines of stalls selling Tequila crafts (miniature barrels, wooden cups, shot glasses and hip flasks of various designs) on the way into town was setting itself up as such a place. The "party buses" with pumping music driving through the centre only added to the impression. I think I've had just about enough of the VengaBoys! Yet, there's something charming about Tequila.





Apparently, crossing the state line (I'm now in Jalisco) put me in a different time zone so I lost an hour. This means I've little to no time to "do" anything such as visit a tequila distillery, despite the fact that many are located in the city itself. If I hang around tomorrow to visit I'll be losing the coolest part of the day. As I wandered around the town it grew on me to the extent that I thought I'd stay an extra day. I negotiated a price at the hotel for an extra night and relaxed.

Dinner was simply delicious. I started with guacamole, served with homemade chips. The amount of guacamole for the price would make a Dutch chef break down in tears! That was followed by delicious steak from the grill, beans, more guacamole, a flour tortilla filled with tomatoes and herbs all washed down with an ice cold beer. Sitting outside, eating my fill of simple, yet delicious, food watching the world go by was a great feeling.

The place is packed with tourists - all Mexican as far as I can make out. The scene did answer one question I had though. Everywhere I go that is in any way touristy, there are stalls and stalls selling sombreros - sun hats. Not the sombreros we typically associate with Mexico, more like Panama style, or cowboy style, all made of straw or some other light material. I couldn't figure out how all these people stayed in business. Well, just about everyone in Tequila is wearing one of these, all brand new. Business is booming!

Another booming business are the big, wooden cups. These are far too big to be useful for drinking tequila out of, so I'm guessing people are pouring their own drinks in there. Again, lots of people armed with these but no obvious signs of drunkenness. 





The church in the centre of town is fabulous! I can't find out when it was built, but it is certainly rustic in style, although inside is very grand. Coming up to noon there are a couple of dozen people inside. The collection boxes are of thick steel with combination locks! 





At night, the high stained glass windows are captivating when lit from inside. The bells in the bell tower work too!

Speaking of noise, every now and then, someone sets off a series of loud bangers somewhere in the centre. For about 10-15 minutes a constant loud bang every 20-30 seconds. When I say loud I mean very loud!

The distilleries themselves are located in the town itself, within walking distance. Jose Cuervo is the oldest and largest. They have a series of tours on offer, from a special train departing from Guadalajara to a tour of agave fields, to a simple distillery tour as well as a variety of tastings. 





The area around Tequila, the town, has been granted World Heritage status based on its Tequila (the drink) history. There are numerous information signs in the city centre outlining the history and medicinal benefits of the drink. There is a distinct sense of pride over this status. The Jose Cuervo experience even pitches itself as a celebration of Mexico and its history rather than a commercial enterprise. 

Oh! I have another bloody puncture! Going to bed last night the back of the bike looked odd - flat again!

Today, after my morning coffee I located the culprit - another tiny wire - and patched everything up. A good investigation of the tyre revealed another one working its way in. Hopefully, I can get a Schwalbe in Guadalajara and dump this Chinese one. I am carrying a spare, folding Mondial, but prefer to keep it for further south when I may really need it. Cycling in the shoulder exposes me to lots and lots of tyre debris - a significant proportion of which are tiny wires. The Mondial on the front and the Marathon on the trailer are having fewer problems.

The plan is to hit Guadalajara tomorrow. Depending on sources, it's the second or third largest city in Mexico, so entry should be fun! I'll stay for a couple of days and have a look around. There's a casa de ciclista in the city that is a bike shop, repair shop, advocate for cycling activities and a general promoter of cycling. I'm hoping they'll have what I need tyre wise. I've read many accounts of long distance cyclists passing through here so I'm looking forward to visiting.

I visited the National Tequila Museum, at a cost of about 75 cents. Short and sweet but without the commercial angle of Jose Cuervo. I joined an English speaking tour that started with a presentation video that was about 75% an ad for JC - Jose Cuervo, not Jesus Christ!





The distillery is undergoing maintenance at the moment so is not in production. There's a shortage of the specific agave plant required as well. It is one of two distilleries JC have, the other about 3 hours away - by car and about three times as big.

It was interesting, even if a lot of detail was skimmed over. 

Tequila has to be distilled from the blue agave plant, the heart (like a big pineapple) is the main part.





Apparently, the legend is that a young girl witnessed some of these plants being struck by lightning. The resulting burned plants smelled good, so the people tried it and discovered that it made them laugh, filled them with joy and released their spirits to talk deeply on subjects. From this legendary beginning, people learned to ferment a crude wine from the blue agave. When the Spanish arrived, they brought European distilling skills and applied to the crude agave wine, Tequila was born.

The agave can only come from 5 states within Mexico and can only be distilled in Jalisco state to be called Tequila. There are different ages, although very few over three years of age. And there are at least two standards where one is blended with different types of alcohol.

It takes 8-10 years for the agave plant to mature so its "heart" can be used which requires a fair bit of forward planning! 





The other people on the tour were all retired Americans. I particularly admired the tour guide who was gracious when informed that Mexico's roads were quite good! They'd been expecting gravel and sand. I wanted to tell them to go to Louisiana….but I was on my best behaviour!





I have no intention of getting on one of the party buses! I don't see the appeal of being blasted by party music in a bus shaped like a barrel or a bottle while driving out to an agave field. I've been seeing agave fields, sometimes in quite detail as laboured up hills the past week!

I'm hoping to get a very early start again tomorrow. It's basically one long climb. I did have a look at the libre on Google maps and the few pictures I looked at were full of traffic, so it's the cuota again tomorrow.






For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

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## HobbesOnTour (27 Feb 2020)

Day 167, Tuesdayday, February 25, 2020, Tequila to Guadalajara 70km, Total KM 6127

Min meters 1192, Max Meters 1704, Total Climb 1089, Total Descent 667


Mexico is feckin' Brilliant!! Have I said that before? I should be saying it every day! There was just something…...kind about today. Can days be kind? I don't know but I've been struggling for an adjective that encompasses the warmth, the hospitality and the vistas I experienced today. It will have to do.





I was up and out the door at 6:20am! The only problem is I'm in a new time zone and it was still dark! I'm not comfortable riding in the dark, even, or especially, in a town. Tequila is not set up for bicycles - cobblestones everywhere, not to mention the usual holes & speedbumps. A coffee at an Oxxo passed the time until it was bright enough to set off.





I was nervous about today. A steep climb, a drop, another steep climb then the city. Once on the (familiar) main road back to the cuota the day started with its kindnesses. The first were the views as the morning sun landed on various hills, fields, mountains and volcanoes. Yes, a volcano! Don't judge me but I was giddily excited to be cycling towards a volcano! Nothing like a volcano to make me feel far from home!





Then I caught up with and passed two guys walking out to tend their agave fields. Big cheers, waves, salutes. I'm crawling past them in my granny gear and their acting like I'm winning the Tour De France! Since I am clearly not a local, obviously foreign and most likely American I am always surprised at the generosity of spirit from people. These two guys were just starting their (hard) day's work yet had nothing but Goodwill for the guy on vacation.





Cycling on I passed two more guys, similar situation! Then I stopped for a rest and a photo as they caught up with me. One of the guys was much older (78) who was all excited by my bike and my trip. Like a child at Christmas. He wanted a photo. No problem. He wanted an action shot. No problem. I hopped on, turned around, rode downhill for a moment, then rode past him. It's funny the effect people can have on us. I really dislike my photo being taken but in these situations it would be beyond churlish to deny someone. He took three photos on his ancient iPhone, then wanted another couple of me standing beside the bike.

Then the chat started! He likes to walk, does it every day, recently walked 280km with a group. It's good for the health and the head. Cycling was the same. Did I like Mexico? It went on and on, his enthusiasm infectious. I was delighted I understood so much, although speaking was tougher. Mind you, I didn't have much of a chance to get a word in!

His younger companion was as enthusiastic and welcoming, albeit quieter. We all shook hands and said goodbye, then another photo and more goodbyes. On the side of the road looking down on Tequila, it was a lovely moment.

Before joining the cuota I had to manoeuvre through the toll booth, then another climb to the cuota itself. At the top I stopped for a breather and Lui pulled up looking much sweatier than me! He's on a bike too, although a nice light roadbike. More photos! More welcomes to Mexico. He lives in Guadalajara so any problems, call him. More connections made on Facebook. His English is about as good as my Spanish, but he kept looking at the bike and saying "strong". I think he means heavy!

There was more climbing on the Cuota but the landscape was interesting, varied and featured a volcano!! I had my speaker out and was singing and drum playing - at one point I believe I was conducting an orchestra!





A feature of the cuota the past few days have been viaducts spanning sharp valleys. These have often been a handy place to stop but aren't great for photos - my side invariably has the sun straight in my face and the other side has at least two fences between me and it. However, they are really, really good at scaring the bejaysus out of me! They wobble significantly with every truck!

The temperature was still in the teens because even the sky was being kind. Fluffy, white clouds were filtering out the power of the sun and casting wonderful shadows over all the land.





Over to my left were the rows of blue mountains that I have come to associate with Mexico. This morning they were just magnificent with a hazy mist rising up from them giving an air of mystery, intrigue and adventure.





The trucks were back on form too! Traffic was light but I was receiving regular toots and waves. When I did come to the long descent my shoulder was crap - a rumble strip in the middle - so I took a lane ready to pull in if something came up behind. No need. The trucks, to a man, all pulled over when they saw me. Not a hint of irritation at all. My mind wandered back to yesterday and the comment about the good roads in Mexico….she forgot about the good drivers too!!!





When I came to the next toll booth it was easy to hop up on the grass and two guys working stepped graciously out of my way, waving me on cheerily. Then it was time for tacos and a Coke before heading into another climb. Again, fantastic scenery and before I knew it I was merging with the regular 15 and on the edge of Guadalajara.

I did a quick traffic count at the merge point and I reckon that the libre had 20-30 cars for every one on the Cuota. Good call!

I was by now about 30km from the centre and my AirBnB and well ahead of schedule so I pulled in to an Oxxo for a leisurely coffee.

When I rejoined the road the miniscule shoulder came and went while immediately to my right was a pretty steep drop down to a drain. In fairness the traffic was very good to me, although I did pull in a few times for my own piece of mind.





I had used cycle.travel to plot my route in the city itself. At one point it took me off the main road into town which was no bad thing. However, a few turns later it had me running parallel to some train tracks. I knew very little about the approach to Guadalajara, but one thing I do recall is that cyclists are advised to avoid the tracks. So I did. Which had me heading the wrong way for a while on a main road until I got a chance to turn around.

In fact, the main road was alright for cycling if you don't mind a bit of chaos and the only high stress times were crossing entry or exit lanes. At one stage I did find myself completely without a shoulder but again, traffic was patient. After that, I took a parallel street until I saw a bike lane and then happily occupied that into the centre. Since I was so far ahead of schedule I decided to pay a visit to the casa de ciclista. Unfortunately, they have no tyres suitable for me in stock. There is another cyclist staying there but he was out. I left my number if he wants to meet up.

Then it was time to have a little exploration around my AirBnB and stop for a coffee.

I have to say that I was very happy with the approach to Guadalajara. A bit hairy at times, to be sure, but nothing too excessive. An example of the kind of patience I received….stopped at traffic lights I was in my own little world looking around and didn't notice the lights go green. The car behind me gave me the gentlest, softest, barely audible toot. It was almost apologetic!

The temperature today peaked at 36C which is the coolest I've had for a while. It really made a difference - another example of the kindness received today. Instead of being a hard slog in excessive heat, the day turned out to be a very pleasant cycle through some sunny countryside!


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

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## HobbesOnTour (1 Mar 2020)

Day 168-9, Wednesday & Thursday February 26 & 27, 2020, Guadalajara 0 km, Total KM 6127

There aren't many things that I claim to be good at. One thing, though, is that I'm quite good at picking out places to eat when away from home. I don't know if I'm just lucky or if there's something almost instinctive to it, but I'm rarely disappointed in my choices. Last night, though, my choice was bizarre and almost twenty four hours later I'm still trying to figure out if it was a success or not!

Anyways, yesterday evening I checked into my absolutely delightful Airbnb, had a shower and set off on a 90 minute walk to a bike shop to check out tyres. My walk took me through all kinds of neighbourhoods and even a market. When I finally got to the shop they had nothing better than what I had in stock, but would check for me the next day what was possible.






On the walk home I passed a restaurant only to be stalled by the aroma of food. Delicious food! I had planned on eating closer to home, but this seemed too good to pass up. In I went, past the sign saying restaurant alternative, was made most welcome, got a seat where I could watch the people of Guadalajara go by, ordered a beer and perused the menu.
That's when I noticed the part of the sign I should have noticed first - vegetarian!!
I like my meat! I'm probably the greatest friend to vegetables since I hardly ever eat them. I gave serious consideration to moving on, but I'd already ordered a beer, everyone was so friendly and it would just seem rude. All part of the adventure!
I did get excited when I saw something with chorizo, however, a consultation with Google Translate clarified that it was chickpea chorizo - a different kind of animal altogether!
At least they had guacamole and the chips and sauces they served when I sat down were very tasty.
I ordered blind, apart from the guacamole and when it arrived it was like the (green) food of the Gods! I've
had lots of good guacamole here, but this was on another level.
When my main course arrived it wasn't a soup, it wasn't a stew, it was something in between with beans and various mushrooms in a rich sauce that was tasty and subtly spiced. It was pretty darn good! Don't get me wrong, some meat would have improved it no end!





Today then, I took a wander into town. There are churches everywhere here. I zigzagged down the small streets changing direction to reach another spire. They all had people in them praying and all but one had a service taking place. These are working churches, unlike many of the main churches and cathedrals in Europe that seem to be mainly visited by tourists.





Town is busy and an eclectic mix of the old and the new. It's also hot! Guadalajara was one of the first cities to grow under Spanish rule and looking at the many open plazas, the fountains and the old buildings you could easily imagine yourself in Europe. Then you hop down a side street and you're definitely in Mexico! Tiny shops selling all kinds of things (except flags for bikes!), broken pavements, crazy traffic. Truth be told, I far prefer these little streets.
I visited the city museum and the regional museum, missing out a lot in both because pretty much all the information is in Spanish, with very little about the new addition to my vocabulary - chickpea!
However, both buildings were magnificent! The smaller city museum is in a former monastery, a two story building around an open area. Wonderfully cool and with trees and plants growing. I know all this because one of the assistants saw me admiring the building and nothing would stop him from explaining everything. I think I got a good lot of what he said, but fell down badly when he was listing off the different trees and plants. Not a problem - out with his phone and translations and pictures followed. There was no mistaking his pride in this place nor his desire to share that pride.
The regional museum was bigger and covered a lot of the same ground I'd seen in Tepic. They had a mammoth skeleton too! It's hard (for me) to imagine mammoths and rhinos wandering around these parts, but the evidence is there!
Without doubt, my favourite part was this wonderful chessboard!





I ocassionaly make reference to my apalling sense of direction. It reared its head again today, but I wasn't lost wandering around Mexico's second largest city - I was lost in the museums! There's obviously some kind of route to follow but for love nor money I couldn't get it.

The rest of the time I crisscrossed the main areas of the city centre, mainly exploring the exciting side streets. I found a row of shops selling all kinds of pulses, herbs and dried chilis. Tiny shops, barely two meters wide, four or five deep and 12-15 people outside calling out their orders.
There were also rows of shops selling plastic - if it was plastic they had it - from children's toys to buckets.
I even came across a shop selling padded underwear for ladies. I'm aware of padded bras, but have never seen padded underwear in the flesh, so to speak! We live & learn!





While Guadalajara is obviously a wealthy and cosmopolitan city, there is also very evident poverty. People openly begging for money. In other places they will do a little service or sell sweets. Here they ask directly. There's nothing aggressive or intimidating about it, but it is quite common. Sitting down having a coffee I've been cleaned out of my small change!

I've also been nuzzled by a couple of passing dogs! Like elsewhere in Mexico, dogs are wandering freely around, or dozing in quiet places. It seems that even the dogs can tell I'm not from these parts! There's something very comforting about a dog's cool snout nuzzling my leg.





Once out of the immediate centre there is a lot of graffiti on many of the buildings. Just crude "tagging" as opposed to graffiti art, although I did come across a wall yesterday evening with painted posters for upcoming events.





Lui, my amigo from yesterday, was in touch last night offering advice on the next stage. Like I had read, the main road is considered very dangerous because of heavy traffic so I'm looking at alternatives. I think he wants to ride along with me! I've told him I tend to go quite slowly! I'm heading for a lake and might even have the chance to camp again! Yaaay!

I decided to give Guadalajara a second day. Frankly, I wasn't having the experience I had been expecting. It's good, just not "Wow"! I was also rather tired and I needed a bit of time to plan a bit further down the road. The Airbnb was not reserved, so another day off it was.





I also changed around the tyres on my bike. The shop was able to get me Schwalbe Land Cruisers in size 1.75. Not great puncture protection, but certainly better than the Chinese tyre I got. I prefer 2.0 or bigger. I can go up to 2.5. I put the new tyre on the front, replaced the rear with the Mondial from the front (which was itself swapped from the rear previously). I picked up some tubes as well, but these have plastic insulation around the schrader valves and don't want to fit through the rim! Cue a frustrating hour cutting & burning the stuff off.

A lot of my extra day was spent doing chores. I plotted my route out of the city and scoped out a few possibilities of routes for the next week or two. I had finally found some postcards yesterday and visited two post offices today for stamps - no joy - these were only for packets! Aaaargh!

Every account of cycling in Guadalajara I've come across has mentioned the difficulties and stresses of riding here. For that reason I was a bit more particular in checking out my route.





I wasn't really enjoying my time in the big city. I prefer the smaller places, I think. It's easier to feel alone in crowded places and I think that was a part of it. I did go for a long wander around all the back streets. I did enjoy that. Narrow streets with trees growing tall out of the pavement. Sections of path tiled, the next broken beyond all belief. Walking past open doors into people's houses (although a heavy, steel gate locked in front of the door), past dogs too lazy to stir. Some houses operate a kitchen from their hall! I ate at one last night and had a choice of three things. It was delicious! The amount of little plazas is very interesting - invariably near a church or other religious institution. Trees for shade, seats for comfort and sometimes a food stand or two. Older people catching up with each other during the day, kids out playing in the evening. Everybody seems to know everybody else. I like the vibe of these places. Of course, the weather helps!





I'm looking forward to getting back on the road now. Hopefully there will be more camping opportunities. I miss my camping!

For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122
Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Mar 2020)

Day 170, Friday, February 28, 2020, Guadalajara to Jocotepec 67km, Total KM 6194

Min meters 1521, Max Meters 1653 Total Climb 533 Total Descent 591

My route out of Guadalajara was a dream, sticking to side streets, residential areas, many small plazas and parks. I was missing most of the traffic. It was when I left Guadalajara that I met and mingled with the traffic. I joined 15 again and three lanes of traffic going my way. When there was a shoulder I used it, when there was no shoulder I took the pavement and when there was neither I took the road. It really wasn't that bad. There was one hairy stretch when it went back to a two lane road, no shoulder worth talking about and a winding climb. I did pull in a couple of times for trucks, but that was more for peace of mind than necessity.

I was heading for Lake Chalpa and by taking 15 I was taking the indirect, longer way. The other way was even busier.

I stopped for coffee at an Oxxo, stopped to fill up on some cold water. There was no stopping on the road for photos - just not safe enough.

The great thing about that kind of riding is that time flies! Before I knew it, I was taking the turn off to Jocotepec which sits on the lake. Now, this road was bliss! Four lanes, split and hardly any traffic. The scenery was becoming more interesting then.






I passed a guy and his moped on the side of the road and a little later pulled in myself for some water and a photo. As I was about to set off again, Poncho (for that was his name) was pushing his moped up the hill towards me, waving & beeping his horn. I rolled down to see what was wrong. He had a flat and needed to remove the rear wheel. For that he needed a spanner. I had an adjustable spanner (down at the bottom of a pannier, of course), but with the angle and the condition of the wheel it wasn't working. Poncho took out his phone to call his boss who offered no help. His friends said they'd pick him up. I split my water with him and set off again.

The road was more interesting now, or at least I had the time to look around. Weaving through some hills, a lake or two and the sun shining brightly. It was hitting 40C, but there was a powerful headwind that was lovely and cool.





When the dual carriageway became a two lane road for a few Kms the traffic reacted appropriately. Then, the dual carriageway was back and I cycled happily along through a valley that was full of polythene tunnels for fruit. If it was 40C outside, how hot must it be inside one of those?










Before I even knew it I was on the outskirts of Jocotepec so I turned off looking for some food. I found the main plaza easily enough, beside the most wonderful old church, built out of brown stones. Because of the sun and some trees getting a decent picture is difficult and the doors are closed so I can't get inside.









I had lunch on the plaza, a less flavoursome version of my vegetarian meal in Guadalajara - but with meat. There's a campground nearby and since this little town is so charming I emailed them to make sure they accept tents. Another campground further down don't. I got an affirmative reply so I'll be camping again!

I lazed around the plaza for a while, almost forgetting Mazi on top of the Jocotepec sign! A little girl ran after me to remind me….then hung around for her tip! It's a nice town.





Then I rolled, or rather bumped my way out to the RV park & campground. It's an unusual place in that it's also open to the public - it has a large swimming pool as well as a thermal pool and lots of picnic tables with grills etc. Mexico may not have many campgrounds…..but when they do a good one….they do a good one! This is a fabulous location on the lake and since I'm in a tent I have lots of choice of where to pitch. Since it was too hot to pitch the tent straight away, first order of business was the thermal pool! What a way to finish a day's ride by soaking in a naturally heated pool!





Later, I pitched the tent, cooked dinner and had a relaxing evening wandering around and reading my book. It's good to be back under canvas!







For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!
Edited to correct Day number!


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2020)

Day 171, Saturday, February 29, 2020, Jocotepec to La Manzanilla De la Paz 54km, Total KM 6248

Min meters 1493, Max Meters 2086 Total Climb 1030 Total Descent 569

They say eaten bread is soon forgotten, but my breakfast today will stay in my memory for a while! It was a little after 10am, I wasn't on the road that long (more later) and at the top of a hill at a speed bump there was a guy cooking chicken over a coal fire. I just had to stop! Since his business was for takeaway, there was a big fuss made to get me to sit down, someone was despatched to buy tortillas and a coke (I could live without the tortillas, but the coke was necessary!). I was served delicious chicken off the grill (a half a chicken!) and some pasta salad from a big (unrefrigerated) bowl. I figured it was early enough in the day so should be safe! Talk about delicious! Slightly sweet chicken, a pasta salad drenched in a chili sauce. Yum! I had to move bike and myself half way through eating because the farmer was herding his cows along the side of the road to be milked! How often do you get to have your breakfast interrupted by meandering cows? 😀





I had set off much later than I had anticipated. I was up before the sun and had coffee made in time for the sunrise over the lake. It was amazing how quickly the sun rose out of the water, the twinkling stars slowly fading then being lost in the pale blue of the dawn sky. All this was accompanied by a cacophony of bird song from the many, many trees in the park. I don't think they were song birds because the sound wasn't particularly melodious, but these birds were in fine voice - alive and apparently very happy to be that way.





Yesterday I'd noticed that on one of my older ortliebs the centre buckle had removed itself. Thankfully, it was attached to my rackbag do it hadn't been lost. I'd planned to fix it in a couple of days, but on closer examination this morning, the pvc material was crumpling badly without the two screws necessary. Leaving it for a few days might not be such a good idea. I carry a packet of spare Ortlieb screws etc. so set about the repair.

Talk about frustrating!! The screw has to go through the plastic frame, then, in order, the PVC material, the material of the pocket inside and into a nut. Except there's a plastic washer in there somewhere too! Lining up all the holes was a real PITA on the first one, even harder on the second since there was less room to work.





Ortliebs are great, but anyone with some, check your screws on a regular basis!

After that, I decided that the location of the hooks might be a bit too close together and that this was adding extra pressure, so I reset the hooks on both Panniers as well as the bottom holding hook. Another frustrating task.

At last I was ready to pack and leave.

I had been looking forward to an early morning dip in the thermal pool, but apparently it gets drained every night! Easy to do, I suppose when there's a constant supply of free hot water!





My destination tonight is another RV campground. Can't make contact with them, but my info is that they take tents. For this reason I'm going by the Southern end of the lake - less well developed than the Northern side. 

The road was mainly fine, normally with a shoulder and the landscape was interesting - the lake to my left through the trees, mountains to my right. At some point, I'll have to ride over those mountains! In the meantime it's rolling hills and although the temperature rose quickly to the mid 30sC a strong headwind kept me cool.

After about 30 km I arrived at the town of Tuxcueca and pulled up for a while to drink and rest. It was about 1 pm and the hottest part of the day. No harm to be out of the sun! I can see the road going up along the mountain as I write this!





One of the greatest things about travelling on a bike is that it can be so easy to simply exist in the moment. I think it's incredibly healthy not to be thinking of the past or the future, just concentrating on making the best of now. It took a while for me to learn that and it's not always easy to stay in the moment, especially after a lifetime of constantly looking forwards or behind. The second half of today was one of those days where I began to look into the future and the future wasn't looking good.

After my break I set off and immediately started climbing, almost as steeply as the temp - 40C. I had about 600 meters of a climb, a drop, then I'd to get another 200 meters up. After the last couple of days cycling I was possibly too optimistic and the late start didn't help. As soon as the serious climbing began and I slowed down my mind started to wander from the now. About 4 pm it clouded over with the realisation that I wasn't going to make my target before dark. Hell, I didn't know 100% if the RV park took tents - all I had to go on was the iOverlander app. It could be worse - I could arrive in the dark and be turned away!

The countryside was lovely, I had a good shoulder, all should be right in my world. 





When I finally came to the big drop (before the climb back up) I didn't enjoy it nearly as much as I should have - I was too busy moaning about my altitude loss. The valley was beautiful (called the Buenos Aires) but I didn't stop for a photo - I didn't want to lose momentum.





A little later I saw a sign for a restaurant and pulled in. I needed a cold drink and was dithering about food. I really didn't have the time. 

I was the only customer, but of course they were open! They had menus too! There was something about the old couple running the place that made me slow down so I ordered my food and a coke and took a seat.

While she was busy cooking he brought me over freshly sliced cucumber covered in sea salt and a bottle of fire. So simple, so effective for a sweaty cyclist and just so darn thoughtful. Such a simple thing but it impressed me mightily - the rehydrating snack and the thought behind it. (Try it sometime!)

My food was simple but delicious. While I was eating the couple were sitting down behind their counter laughing at a TV show. On the excuse of ordering another coke I wandered up to see what they were watching - something old in black and white.

It's hard to put my finger on it, but they just seemed so…….contented. It was a very sweet scene.

As I was sitting eating, fretting about whether I wanted to risk heading for an unknown RV park in the dark, I took a lesson from the couple, took a deep breath and concentrated on my food. Delicious! 

Then I had a proper look around the restaurant. Outside was a play area, probably older than the couple, that was so simple yet I'm sure gave lots of joy to kids for generations and still does.





All of a sudden I realised I was in a special place, that places like this and the people in it are the very reason I'm on this trip. I stopped worrying about the darkness and just soaked it all up. 

I tried & failed to explain how much I enjoyed my meal, but they smiled anyway, that typical Mexican smile that is so bright as to be infectious and wished me a good trip.

A few Kms down the road was the town of La Manzanilla de la Paz, a small town but with a couple of hotels. The first was beautiful, right beside an amazing church but too pricey for me. I found another, further away and the owner offered me a better rate. Done!





I showered and headed straight back to the church. It was relatively simple inside and very peaceful. Some of the churches can have some quite horrific statues!

There was free WiFi in the square so I updated this and watched the Saturday night in the plaza. It was getting cold - I'm higher now and I was just ready to go when a brass band, more enthusiastic than good kicked off a performance right under the first hotel! How glad was I not to be staying there!





I'd have bypassed this little town had I been barreling for my destination. As it turned out it was a delightful little place (if a nightmare to cycle in - not cobblestones so much as rocks) and I felt perfectly at ease sitting in the little plaza watching the world go by.



For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2020)

Day 172, Sunday, March 01, 2020, La Manzanilla De la Paz toValle de Juarez 32km, Total KM 6280

Min meters 1913, Max Meters 2279
Total Climb 649 Total Descent 914

A short day with not a lot to write about!





I was slow to get up, one of the reasons being that my hotel room was internal and had no windows! It wasn't stuffy, but there was a lack of fresh air. The second reason was that I didn't have far to go today due to a lack of accommodation options. Finally, I was dead tired!





I got up and my host offered me coffee which was gratefully accepted, then it was time to pack up and hit the road. I took a little wander around the town, then on the road out stopped for a breakfast of youghurt, a sandwich and coffee at the Oxxo.





It was already hot but the touring Gods were kind and laid on a lovely descent for me. I stopped at a crossroads before the town of Mazamitla for a welcome cold drink and a rest. I could have bypassed the town, but it is something of a tourist attraction so I climbed up to it. It was certainly full of tourists and I was stuck in a traffic jam in the narrow streets. I wandered around as best I could (there were lots and lots of people), got some delicious food and set off again. 









The way out of town was brutal!! A descent on cobblerocks! Cobblerocks are like cobblestones but with none of the smoothness of stones. Two kms of this! Boneshaking!





Finally, I was on a secondary road and heading for the town of Valle de Juarez where I hoped to be camping. I should pass the RV campground on my way into town.

Nope!

I turned around and headed back out of town and stopped at a restaurant, the only building around. My phone told me this was the location of the RV park so I wandered in.

There was a bit of friendly confusion and I was told to wait for the owner. While waiting I wandered and saw a field attached with power points for campers.

Sure enough the owner showed up, I was made most welcome and told to take my pick of sites.

There were a lot of cats around, do I dumped my gear and headed up into town for a look around.It was very quiet!





Back at the restaurant I had a fabulous dinner. The waitress came over to me five times after I had ordered with questions about how exactly I wanted my food prepared. 

Then it was time for me to pick my spot (away from the cats), pitch the tent and relax.

Later, on my way to the bathroom I took a bit of time to stare at the sky. It was fabulous! Even though the moon was less than a third full it was incredibly bright, blocking out anything close to it, but the rest of the sky was crystal clear and filled with twinkling wonders. It was cool, too! 

A good night's sleep was had.



For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Mar 2020)

Day 173, Monday, March 02, 2020, Valle de Juarez to Jiquilpan 69km, Total KM 6349

Min meters 1459, Max Meters 2089
Total Climb 748 Total Descent 1218

It's hard to understate just how bad the road surface was for parts of today. It's one of those things that just have to be dealt with, I suppose. I'm not sure how I'd go about finding out in advance, anyways. It's all part of the adventure!

I was up before the sun rose and it was cold!! And wet! A heavy dew was on the ground and on the tent. I was packing up as the sun was rising and what a beautiful morning it was! A heavy mist rising up from the ground, shielding the lower parts of the mountains, hillsides dark one moment, the next illuminated in the gold of dawn. It really was very pretty.

Just when I was ready to go I couldn't find my wallet. A think back and I decided it was likely wrapped up in my sleeping bag. Cue unpacking everything, pulling out said sleeping bag, retrieving wallet and repacking. More fun and games at the gate! Had I been locked in? Thankfully no, it just looked that way. 


Once on the road I took the first turn left, avoiding the town and more importantly away from the sun. Early in the morning the sun is blinding when cycling straight into it. On a bike I'd imagine I'm very hard to see. The day began with some gentle climbing through a valley as the sun did its bit in bringing everything to life. Again, very pretty scenery.





I crossed into my newest state, Michoacán and the roads deteriorated immediately. I mean right on the state line. What had been a reasonable chip and seal became craters connected by strips of tar and rock! This was a link road and I was hoping when I got to the mainish road things would improve.

And they did. For about 100 meters! There were regular potholes, cracks and gaps, large bumps where tarmac had been dumped to cover a hole but never flattened. Going up, which is what I was doing was tough, going down, which I'd do later was downright dangerous, especially when shade from trees would effectively hide the booby traps until I was almost on them!





I stopped at the little town at the top of the climb for some delicious quesadillas and a Coke, then set off downhill. The road was crap, but the views were fabulous. The road was narrow and there were no safe places to stop and take photos. I did my best to enjoy the view while hanging on for dear life as I bounced down. 

At the bottom of the hill I stuck to the main road and looped around the town of Jiquilpan, only hitting the outskirts before going off course and taking some backroads in an attempt to get onto Highway 15 as I figured that this would be a better option. 15 was, but getting there was a whole lot of fun!










Another cyclist came up behind me and we had a bit of a chat. He said he'd ride with me to my turnoff to make sure I didn't get lost. 

I pulled into a little village at about 1:30 to get out of the sun. I'm lower down now and it's feeling very hot. It's difficult to overstate just what an effect the sun and the heat has, especially when combined with climbing. As well as the need to constantly drink, the sun rapidly heats up water in my water bottles. I now carry my main water supply in my panniers - it stays cool longer.





I find myself getting headaches if too long in the sun and sometimes lightheaded. That's not good on a busy road. Concentration can become more difficult too. And then there's the sapping of energy. On the flat it's not too bad, I'm moving at a decent enough pace to generate some wind, but climbing? That's tough!

The other thing about such a bright sun is that it can really mess up photos!





I set off again about 3:30 with about 60-65 km to go. The temperature wasn't helping, stubbornly sticking around 40C and I was beginning to think I'd bitten off more than I could manage today. 

Michoacán is another of those states to avoid, according to Government advice. I posted a picture of my new state on Facebook and immediately had a response from a Mexican telling me to be careful! I was heading for a National Park that may not be open when I got there with the distinct possibility of being stuck in the middle of nowhere in the dark. 

However, with my recently revitalized "living in the moment" vibe I was happy to push on knowing I'd be passing civilisation before the park so would have other options along the way.





I entered a busy little town where I would finally join up with my planned route. (I had turned off in Jiquilpan to get off the crappy road.)

It looked a nice place and I was tempted to stop, but told myself that it was too early. I picked up my route and meandered out of town….. right back to where I had been a few hours earlier! Somehow, I had managed to do a big circle! 

There was nothing to do except laugh! I turned around a rode back into town grinning from ear to ear!

Anyone who knows me in the real world knows just how bad my sense of direction is! I'm only surprised it's taken this long for this to happen on this trip! I checked out a few hotels, picked the cheapest, showered and went for a wander around. I figure if the touring Gods brought me here twice in one day they're trying to tell me something! 

At least tomorrow I'll be under no pressure to get to the park! 


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Mar 2020)

Day 174, Tuesday, March 03, 2020, Jiquilpan to Lago de Camécuaro,
75km, Total KM 6424

Min meters 1530, Max Meters 1780
Total Climb 1038 Total Descent 1004


Last night was just lovely! I had a wander around, stopped for a good cup of coffee and sat on a terrace watching the world go by. I'm fairly sure the woman making my coffee was flirting with me which was very nice, but my Spanish quickly failed me which was not so nice! 





Then I got up for another wander, this time visiting a church where a well attended mass was taking place. This last couple of days the churches are all in built up areas or shielded by trees and getting a decent photo is difficult. In any case, they are all very impressive structures, although this one tonight was in some state of disrepair. I visited another plaza and was amused to notice a significant number of people running laps of it! How they did it with the temptations of food stands and drink stands I have no idea!

Then it was a wander through the side streets and peeking in all the little stores before a bite to eat and more people watching. The plazas here really get a lot of use and are very well respected. Then it was back to the hotel stopping at a shop for a cold drink. In there I was asked if I was American and when I replied in the negative the questions started flying. It turns out my interrogator spoke perfect English, he just wanted to make me sweat! He was amazed that I was on a bike! He works in Nebraska from March to November every year, leaving his wife and kids here. He's just getting ready to go back. He said he loves where he comes from but there are no prospects of a decent living and a chance to set his kids up well. It can't be easy leaving family for that length of time every year. 





I really wasn't feeling it this morning and having looked again at routing I decided to throw in a bit of cross country just for the heck of it and to liven things up! I'd enjoyed my country road experience yesterday, so more of that please! In all honesty, it's probably not the best of states to be doing this in, but the regular roads aren't great either!





But…. it was slow going! Lots of fun, but slow! I met a woman herding her cows for milking who studiously ignored me, a young cowboy with a dog who grudgingly acknowledged me and later two guys repairing fences who at least were cheerful! It was getting hot, but there was a lovely cooling breeze coming from the lake I was cycling beside. The best part was that I could stop at will and just look around me. The only noise was of the wind, the occasional tractor way off in the distance and the one pickup I passed. Bliss!





Then it was back onto the main road where I saw a shaded bus stop so pulled in for a rest and a drink. When I got up to go the back wheel was soft! Oh dear! There had been a lot of thorny bushes along my way.





I unpacked, flipped the bike over, got the wheel off, found a tiny pinprick, patched it then hunted in the tyre for the offending item. Nothing. There's a few cracks in the tyre though. It wasn't new when I started. This tyre was on the back when I cycled to Ireland & back last year crossing the Pennines. It's coming to the end of its natural life. 

I also made up some wraps with trail mix and Nutella, then packed up and started climbing! 





At the moment it's either up or down - there is no flat. Going up is tough in this weather and there are very few places to stop. The road is narrow, there's no shoulder to speak of, there are bends and dips and rises that make visibility difficult. It means I'll stop at every little village or town for a rest and a cold drink. It also means that I get to take relatively few pictures - it's just not safe. Having said that, there were some absolutely stunning vistas today - big, wide, open valleys, surrounded by mountains of green and blue and brown. There's something about these mountains that I can't quite put my finger on. They don't have the size, the grandeur, the immensity of the Alps and their snowy peaks. I found the mountains of Northern Spain to be wild, individual and unique. These seem a bit tame, but with a hidden threat. You can see, especially near the bases where farmers have claimed some of the mountain, and the rest is unthreatening vegetation. Perhaps the hidden threat comes from the volcanic history of this area. In any case, they may not be the most spectacular mountains ever, and I may not be enjoying climbing them, but they are beautiful in their own way. I particularly enjoy seeing a valley open up that appears to be exploited to the max with polythene tunnels everywhere. 





I took a few longish breaks rather than one really long one. I figured it was important to keep knocking off the Kms and there was a town every 15kms or so.





The wind was very strong today, coming from the south. It was either a headwind or a sometimes nasty sidewind. A few times I was nearly blown over! 

I was pushing it as the sun was going down, worried that I would get to the park and find it closed. The traffic was busy and I had probably my closest pass in Mexico thus far.





Despite the rush and the failing light I just had to stop a couple of times when there was an option to because the sun was making magic on the mountains. Picture the scene…..

There's mountains all around me, the sun is behind me and to my right. The mountains there are a deep, dark, mysterious blue veering towards purple with veins of deeper blue running down through them.

Directly in front of me the setting sun has made the tops of the mountains a magnificent, vibrant gold, ceding to green and brown lower down to finally a dark green at the base where hardly any light is falling.

To my left, the mountains are fully illuminated, green and full of vegetation, fields marked out on the lower slopes. Between those mountains are more faded blue mountains way off in the distance. 

To my right, there's a whole range of things going on. The tops are bright with the sun, the rest in shadow of various intensity so some areas are visible and others are spooky dark areas where anything can happen!

It would be perfect if all the damn traffic would just feck off!

I should have had no worries about the park. There's a whole load of stalls outside, all closed when I arrived and a load of activity inside. A security guard told me no problem to camp although I'm not sure where I'm supposed to pay. I followed the signs for the camping area cycling along with some MTBers, two of whom were friendly, the third not do much. I don't think he liked that I sailed past him!





I came across a load of tents pitched beside a little river but continued on. By now it was dark and there didn't seem to be anywhere else so I returned back to the tents where only one man was standing. I cheerfully introduced myself in my best Spanish only to be shushed! There were people in all the tents and silence was necessary as they were doing something spiritual!

I rolled on! I wasn't feeling particularly spiritual and I'm fairly sure my influence wouldn't help them!

I don't really know where I am, but I found a flat place to pitch the tent, there's a picnic table and a little river not too far away. I am home! 



For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Mar 2020)

Day 175, Wednesday, March 04, 2020, Lago de Camécuaro to Angahuan 56km, Total KM 6480

Min meters 1652, Max Meters 2377
Total Climb 1425 Total Descent 925

There's a lot of trees around me so my view of the sky last night was limited. However, what I could see was spectacular! One of the things I always noticed when I went back to Ireland was the sky! In comparison to NL it was full and clear! Well, this part of the world beats everything so far! I walked around looking up so much I got a literal pain in my neck, then it was back to my tent and my roommate! Yes, I have company tonight - lady company! A ladybird has made their home in my tent and that is one bug I can't throw out!

I slept like the proverbial baby and way past dawn. When I did get up it was already getting warmer and I had a chance to see more of where I was than I could last night. It was certainly pretty, although the fruit farm next door had an industrial look to it. There were several groups of people armed with multiple buckets walking past, presumably on their way to pick fruit. (Later I saw the other side of the park had a fruit farm too).

My picnic table was occupied by someone from the Spiritual group. In fact, a few were up and walking about but avoiding eye contact and not speaking. Some ducks seemed to be annoying the picnic table occupant and they left just as I was about to carry my breakfast stuff to a different, further table. I soon had a big pot of coffee that washed down some bread and the last of my Nutella. 
It was nice to be back having a relaxing, self made breakfast!





When I fixed my puncture yesterday I'd noticed how dirty the chain had become in only a few days and late yesterday I had problems trying to get into the smallest front chainring. I gave the chain a good clean, relubed and the gear issue seemed to have resolved itself.

I packed up and took a wander around the park. There were lots of stalls being set up for food, drink and the usual hats and other memorabilia. I also found the "proper" camping area, a field, effectively, with a toilet block beside it.

Then I set off to pay - a challenge in itself. I could find no office or anything official so asked a policeman. He directed me to two guys loading a pickup with chairs who happily told me there was no charge!

I had a last look around and had pangs when I saw a guy setting up his chicken broiler. Beside him was a guy setting up a stall to sell margharitas! How nice would it be to have a lazy day drinking margharitas and eating delicious chicken?!

My destination today is the town of Angahuan, not far from there are the remains of a town swallowed by lava. 

I set off up a hill to the nearby town and stopped for a second breakfast of yoghurt and a banana. I gave some serious thought to rolling back down the hill and having another day in the park. There was a sound logic to it. It was already late (coming up to noon), I had a lot of climbing to do, starting with 600 meters straight up and as usual I wasn't too sure on exactly what camping options were open to me when I got there. Over breakfast I'd had a look for any interesting loops I could do but there really weren't any options that weren't longer and higher than where I was going.





I hit the road again, quickly turning off 15 which was a long line of traffic in both directions. I went through the little town, stopping to admire the church and all the activity in the plaza, then started climbing. 





I had a whole long piece written about the trials & tribulations of today's cycling. It suffices to say it was tough, very tough. There was a lot of climbing without break, a headwind that was a blessing on the steep climbs but a hindrence on the gentle climbs, few places to safely stop, a lot of pushing, little villages that were sullen and not well equipped for food, and after a few km I had trouble with my granny gear again. The toughest part, without a doubt, was mental. I would have preferred to have stayed another day in the park, relaxed, had a few margheritas (that man looked like he knew what he was doing!) and gorged on BBQ chicken. I'm not sure why I pressed on, but I think one of the reasons was this travelogue and an anxiety of being judged as a lazy git. Well, lesson learned! 

As the day wore on it looked more and more likely that I would not get to my destination before nightfall and that added to the general unpleasantness. This is a no-go state, the people I had encountered were generally sullen and uncommunicative. I was moving so slowly and with such difficulty that warnings and dire predictions had no problem keeping up with me, like flies buzzing around my head.





I had used a Komoot route that showed the lowest climbing - when will I ever learn??? It was gone within 5km trying to take me through a locked gate on a backroad that a horse would struggle on. Later it tried to bring me over a wall! 





In a better frame of mind it would have been a memorable day for all the right reasons. Some of the scenery was stunning! Mountains near and far in a variety of colours depending on the sunlight. Colourful bushes and plants along the roads. Trees, I'm not sure of which type, in ordered lines on sections of the mountains….it was really very pretty.





This is a hard working area. Fruit farms fill the valley floors. Today, I passed several brick making operations. Making bricks by hand- not work for the faint of heart!





As night was falling I could see Angahuan getting closer on Gizmo, but I wasn't fully confident of reaching it until I finally rolled into town. Now all I had to do was find the Centre de Touristico where I understood I could camp. I was craving food but it was dark, I was in a strange town and I needed to find a place for my tent. I got to the church and plaza, then set off down a cobblerocks street, bouncing around, thanking my lucky stars I had a decent light. I thought I found the place, but it was a tourist office, but the helpful man directed me down the road another km or so, then tried to sell me a tour for tomorrow! On I went, bouncing and bobbling. A pickup stopped and a guy tried to rent me a cabin, then a tour for tomorrow - all I wanted was to get my tent up, eat and sleep!

I turned a corner and saw this:





I'm not ashamed to say that I almost bawled. Some kind of emotional release surged up from deep within me and I gasped and struggled to keep it under control. It was like a sign from the Touring Gods that everything was ok! And yes they were! A couple of hundred meters along I bounced into the tourism centre, met the guard, paid my 50 pesos and got my tent set up. I cooked some noodles, threw in some tuna and had a surprisingly tasty dinner. I got into some warm clothes (it's cool!) and lay down in the tent.

Exhausted, relieved and contented.


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Mar 2020)

Day 176, Thursday, March 05, 2020, Angahuan, Rest day, 0km, Total KM 6480

There's a little spot behind the restaurant at the Centre de Touristico that gives a wonderful view over the lava ravaged valley.





In the foreground to the left is the steeple of the famous church, to the left the volcano that did the damage. Straight in front the sun is sinking, blasting out from a passing bank of cloud. What's west is now all but invisible, wiped out by the power of the sun, but moments before there were ridges of far away mountains, layered one behind the other with a thin mist floating along them, exposing peaks and camouflaging bases. With the sunlight reflecting off the various clouds, the sky full of oranges and golds, highlighting the greys and blues of the far off mountains, or causing layers of greens and blues and blacks on the nearby ones it truly is a special location.





When the sun finally drops behind the furthermost mountains the sky lights up with brilliant and vivid oranges behind the clouds.

Throw in a friendly dog who plonks himself beside me as I soak up this view, his wagging tail slapping off my ankle in a lively, friendly rhythm, and evenings don't get much better than this!





Well, that's not true, but it certainly is a very pleasant ending to a very pleasant day!

I've just realized I haven't explained what I'm doing here!

Back in Mazatlãn I took to asking people where would they go to in Mexico if they had to leave and never come back. This area was one answer due to the ancient Church of San Juan Parangaricutiro, all that remains of a town swallowed by lava after an eruption of the nearby volcano in 1943. Most cyclists stay on the north side of the lake after Guadalajara, but I've ventured a bit off the cyclist's beaten path going this way. 

I was in no rush to be getting up, it was cold for one thing!
I got up, brewed coffee and came down to the aforementioned spot with my flask of coffee and just savoured the morning. 

After coming all this way I wanted to see the remains of the church. I didn't fancy a guided tour, nor did a horse trip appeal - I spend enough time bouncing up and down on my ass!

It looked like I could make my own way to the church, about 2,5 km away, so I did.





It was mostly downhill, but well manageable. Nearing the church there was a shanty town of food stalls, all but one empty. A few guys standing around with horses tethered offering to take me up to the volcano. Instead I climbed up to the church. Climb is the word. In Europe this would be crisscrossed with wooden walkways up and around the church, in Mexico we climb over the lava. It's certainly interesting. The church, or rather the remains of the church, are all that's left of the town. Given the size of the church, it must have been a fair sized town. Away from the bell tower, at what would be the opposite end of the church is a little altar, still in use and seemingly treated as a shrine. I thought that was the most moving part of the visit.





A couple of young German guys were climbing around the bell tower playing with their go-pro. I'd said a cheery "Hola" to not much of a response. I made my way to the wall between the towers where they were standing but they made no effort to move or even acknowledge my presence so I left them to it and climbed in a big circle around. Occasionally, instead of lava I'd be stepping on the wall of the church, then back onto the lava. It's very hard to imagine what it must have been like but the evidence is all around!





Before heading back I stopped for a cold drink, more as a way of supporting the local business than a need to drink. I wasn't too impressed to be charged 30 pesos for a coke - twice the going rate! The Germans had been drinking beer so I left them off in front of me.

I got back to my campsite and decided that I was done for the day. My next destination isn't too far away, but I'd be cycling in the hottest part of the day and I've enough of that. I brewed up a pot of coffee and set about adjusting my gears until they were running smoothly. Then I toddled up to a shop to get some ingredients for dinner - I fancied cooking tonight. Then a lazy afternoon was had reading my book.





The two Germans were in a campervan and getting ready to leave. One of them used the washbasins at the toilet block to wash up after their food, except he left the sink a total mess. When I saw it later I was so disgusted I got my own cleaning stuff and cleaned it up. He'd even blocked the drain the inconsiderate ******! This is a great spot costing 50 pesos per night - about €2,50. It just seemed an abuse of hospitality to me.

I made a lovely dinner of pasta salad with onions and tomato and avocado with toast & boiled eggs. I had loads of space to prep and cook and it was really nice to have the time. Then a bit more reading and a little walk to watch the sun go down.





A nice relaxing day! 

As things turned out, I'd have been far better staying in the National Park for another day, getting an early start and making it here in the early afternoon. Then I'd have had an easier time of the climbing, had time to see the church and moved on the next day! Duh! 😀





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## HobbesOnTour (10 Mar 2020)

Day 177, Friday, March 06, 2020, Angahuan to Wild Camp near Patzcuaro 70km, Total KM 6550

Min meters 1389, Max Meters 2399
Total Climb 1389 Total Descent 1437


Well, I wasn't supposed to be here, the tent hidden in some bushes atop a bank beside the cuota, but I guess that's the nature of adventures - we never know what's around the corner!

The friendly dog who had been tapping my ankles yesterday with his wagging tail hung around the tent all night. He wasn't a problem at all, I like to think he was my own guard dog!

I was up before dawn, brewed coffee and took a wander down to watch the sunrise. It really is a wonderful time of the day, especially when the skies tend to be as clear as they are here. Warm, golden light slowly rolling over the dark countryside bringing life to everything. 





Back at the tent I made a leisurely breakfast, hard boiled eggs from last night, freshly fried eggs and (stale) bread fried in olive oil - and more coffee of course!

I was in no particular rush as today's destination was only about 30km away. Not only that, it was a hotel & RV park (that accepted tents) and also had a swimming pool! How's that for luxury?!

I set off, walking the bike through town. I couldn't believe just how bumpy it was and really couldn't believe that I had ridden it in the dark two nights previous.





I stopped to buy a litre of water and started up a hill. My road had a shoulder, traffic was ok, there were some clouds in the sky and all was good in my world. Then things got better with a lovely long descent that had me whizzing and hooping all the way down. 





Before I knew it I was nearing Uruapan and my destination. Spying a filling station with supermarket I pulled in planning to stock up with food for a lazy afternoon. Other than snacks they had nothing so I rolled on, down a hill to my hotel. Closed! Uh oh!





I rolled on down to the very busy town and pulled in when I had a chance to figure out what to do. I'd had no internet now for a couple of days so my research options were limited. Another place I'd marked off was only 65km away. It was about 1 pm now, lots of time to get there given that it seemed a flattish route.

I rode through the town, feeling uneasy. Had I liked the place I'd have found a hotel, but there was a vibe from this place that I wanted to get away from. Heading for the cuota I pulled in at an Oxxo for some quick food and to stock up on liquids.

Soon I was on the road, a nice shoulder all to myself, although the road was busy. Then, to my surprise the road dropped and dropped and dropped some more! Great fun!.....except that I knew I'd have to regain that height before Patzcuaro. In all I dropped about 1000 meters, then immediately set about regaining it! This wasn't in my plan!!





Progress was slow. Another factor was that at a lower altitude it was hotter! Double whammy!

Traffic was heavy and a lot used the shoulder as a lane. This cuota is only a two lane so there was a lot of overtaking and vehicles taking the shoulder. Trucks would lumber slowly up behind me in the shoulder, pull out into the lane to overtake me, then pull back in again. 

When I saw signs for a toll booth I perked up - cold drink and food! Unlike elsewhere, there were no food stalls, only a couple selling drinks and snacks. I got more water and continued on. Climbing.

By the time 5pm rolled around I knew I wasn't going to make it. I reduced my destination to the next toll booth, hoping to camp there. At least there would be security. By 6pm that was a pipedream. I started scanning the road looking for likely camping spots. I stopped to check out a couple, but the signs were not good or a house was close by. Eventually, I found the almost perfect spot, above the road & behind some bushes. No houses nearby. I'd be almost invisible. Totally invisible when night fell. 





I got myself in, the tent out, but not up, then lay down waiting for darkness to fall. I was so tired I dozed for a few minutes. Then when it seemed dark enough, I finished off the tent, hopped in and went to bed. I was too tired to eat, just drank a lot of water & slept surprisingly well given how close I was to the road and how busy it was!






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## HobbesOnTour (11 Mar 2020)

Day 178, Saturday, March 07, 2020, Wild Camp near Patzcuaro to Patzcuaro 27km, Total KM 6577

Min meters 2078, Max Meters 2304
Total Climb 384 Total Descent 520


I slept surprisingly well for a stealthy pitch beside a cuota. Traffic was constant through the night but I have a tendency to sleep through anything when I'm tired.

Hearing the traffic going by, listening out for any unusual sounds that might indicate someone pulling in it is interesting to realise that a lot of Mexican vehicles sound nothing like their European counterparts. Squeaks, rattles, grinding gears as well as tarps used to tie down loads all become far more evident to the listener. More than once I've pulled in to the side of the road when there is a loud, unidentified and threatening sound coming up behind me. Normally it's something as simple as a load of plastic wrapped mattresses carried in the back of a pickup, the plastic making a ferocious racket in the wind.

Stealth camping can be tricky and brings out the survivalist in me! I look for nearby habitation and avoid. I look for signs of animals, especially dogs. I want to be as invisible as possible. If I can I'll check a good distance in both directions before choosing a spot. I'll often spend a while in an area before actually setting up, while trying to disguise my intentions to any traffic that might see me.

For example, one spot I rejected looked good but I saw big pawprints in the dirt so wandered down a disused road that looked like it hadn't seen traffic in years. As it turned out, not far as the crow flies was a house of some kind. So that's a no.

My spot last night had a little, seemingly unused lane in the opposite direction to me. A little wander showed someone had recently been sawing trees for firewood here, but I figured no-one would come out at night to saw firewood and I'd be gone in the morning before they arrived.

The other thing with wild camping is the need for water. I can get by with a minimum of one liter, but with three liters I'm very comfortable for eating, drinking and cleaning.

Lighting has to be kept to a minimum, or preferably, not at all. Nothing like a glowing tent to draw attention to yourself.

Finally, an overactive imagination is not a help! Any strange sound can become a nightmare! I find sitting quietly before making camp can be useful in identifying the "usual" sounds, although when darkness falls that brings its own sounds.

I got up, broke down the tent & packed up in record time. I knew I was in for a long climb from the get go - I saw it last night - but decided to skip breakfast as I was low on water.





It actually wasn't too bad. The sun was doing its job of bringing everything back to life, the temperature was cool, although rising, and even though there was a fair amount of traffic I was comfortable in the shoulder.





When I rolled up to the toll booth it was the same as yesterday, only drinks and snacks available. I horsed down some pastries and a Coke, resting for a while in the shade, watching the world go by. Then it was back on the bike and the last short leg to Patzcuaro.

There was a bit of confusion caused by roadworks when I went to get off the cuota, but as I sailed to Patzcuaro my only concern was arriving too early at the campground! Traffic was heavier and the road was poorer, but I was in no rush. Taking side streets through the town I soon arrived in the area of the campground. I stopped for a coffee then proceeded onwards.





The campground is small, but lovely, a small community of "snow birds", people from Canada, mostly, avoiding the cold winter. There was one other tent and as luck would have it, an Irish couple (and their dog) in it!






Home! 


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Mar 2020)

Day 179, Sunday, March 08, 2020, Patzcuaro English Speaking Day 😀
0km, Total KM 6577

It really didn't take a lot of thought to stay an extra day! There's a lot to be said for being in an environment that is English speaking with friendly, hospitable folk. The fact that there were dogs everywhere just added to the relaxation.





To ease my cycling conscience I had decided to take a spin up the road to visit some ruins, but when a Canadian couple offered to give me a lift I took it. The Irish couple drove too with their dog, but the dog wasn't allowed in, so we passed on the ruins and visited the town instead. A lovely day wandering around craft stalls and visiting a church and old monastery. 

*I just love this dining set! Good thing I'm on a bike! *





That evening I took some time to plan my run into Morelia. Thankfully, the route was relatively flat and I had a choice of roads. This time I chose the Libre as it was a dual carriageway and I'd have a shoulder of some sort after about 20km. I'd read of one horriffic approach to Morelia and this would avoid that too. Besides, I'd be passing a lot more refreshment places this way.





On a side note, I find myself getting into more detailed planning than ever before. I used never look at elevation charts but the last few weeks have been very tough due to a combination of heat and climbing. I've dealt with both before, but singly, combined they have a serious effect on progress. On top of that, when climbing, a shoulder makes a big difference in terms of having my own space (although I always have to be vigilant for other traffic using the shoulder too).





I've also done something else I've never done before - I downloaded a Lonely Planet for Mexico. I generally don't use these kinds of guidebooks but the Irish couple had one and I had a leaf through. It's worth a shot to use since I am effectively wandering from point to point.

There are loads of interesting stories in the park.

The Irish couple have been on the road for a few months, sleeping in the car or in a tent. Having lived in San Francisco for many years they are on a road trip before going back closer to home. Their dog was a rescue from Florida, after a hurricane. Florida puts stray dogs to sleep so volunteers round up animals after disasters and bring them to more pet friendly environments - even if they are on the other side of the country. Another dog in the park was a rescue from New Orleans after Katrina. 

They'd been through the Baja peninsula and met quite a few cyclists, although none, apparently, as heavily loaded as me! 





The Canadian couple run a store back in Toronto specialized in Mexican artisan produce. They come down every year after Christmas, spend three months picking up bits and pieces and having a holiday, before loading a truck with their finds and heading back. It seemed a very nice lifestyle!

One of the very few Americans has been coming to the site for decades. He has seen a big drop off in American visitors in the past five years. Whereas before it was 50:50 Americans to Canadians, now it's more like 20:80 in favour of the Canadians. The park was ⅔ full but he said five years ago it wasn't possible to just roll in it was so full. He's aware of the risks of visiting Mexico, but he has never experienced anything bad. 

He did make one valid comment, though, and that was in his experience the greatest doom mongers about Mexico were people who had never visited or had only visited resorts that they never left.

*One of many frescoes on the wall of the old monastery*






For me, it was great to be in an environment where everyone was so positive and not trying to scare the bejaysus out of me with horror stories and the like. All were tremendously excited for me and my adventure.






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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2020)

Day 180, Monday, March 09, 2020, Wild Patzcuaro to Morelia 56km, Total KM 6633

Min meters 1978, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 534 Total Descent 593


It's weird. You roll into one place with certain expectations and leave disappointed, then later you roll into another place thinking "Meh" and are blown away within five minutes of arrival!

Before I go any further a big shout out to Cycle.travel, a bicycle tourer's greatest asset after a bike and a half decent attitude. Here I am way down in Mexico and cycle.travel is still getting me into, out of and around Mexican cities - and it's not supposed to work in Mexico! 

Anyways, my plan was to leave right at first light and try to get the first section out of the way before it got too busy. As with most of my plans, there was a certain amount of modification along the way. I was awake at 6 but could already hear lots of traffic on the road so was lazy for a little while. Then I did get up and got ready to roll. The bike packed and me ready to leave I paused to chat with my neighbours, leaving the bike a little too long fully loaded on the clickstand. With the slightly softish ground the stand bent and the bike fell over. No big deal. But my neighbour offered to straighten the bent section and I agreed telling him it was aluminium. Snap! One section gone! Oh well, he was only trying to help.





Getting out of the RV park was a challenge - people up early and wanting to talk but I finally rolled out a little after 8 am.

Traffic was heavy, or at least, heavier than I'd like with no shoulder. The sun was quite low too, so spying an Oxxo after about a half hour I pulled in for coffee. Not a bad call, when I set off again at 9 the sun was higher and the traffic lighter!

After a while I rejoined 14 and had a surprisingly decent shoulder. It was good to be back on the road. It certainly helped that I was in for no climbing surprises today. I was motoring along enjoying the views, enjoying the cycling, enjoying life!





A little after 10 I pulled in for some food, delicious pork tacos and set off again. Unlike yesterday the sky had few clouds and the heat was rising, already 35 at 10:30am!

I plugged in some music and was soon belting out Springsteen at a fairly reasonable volume! 

With the exception of one longish climb, ascents were short and invariably followed by a nice descent. So much better than slogging uphill for hours at a time!





It seemed like no time later I climbed a little curving hill to be presented with the sprawl of Morelia stretched out before me! I rolled down towards it but the approach was certainly not bike friendly! My shoulder disappeared and I found myself pulling off the road regularly to let traffic past. I was in no rush.





Then I let cycle.travel's genius have its head and I left the traffic behind and followed wonderfully quiet streets the whole way to the centre. Arriving in the main plaza beside the Cathedral I was just blown away! 





This is a UNESCO designated city and it is very, very pretty! I could not stop smiling! I hopped off the bike and just wandered around gobsmacked by the architecture. 





I went for a celebratory coffee on a fancy, European style terrace, enquired about an early arrival at my AirBnb and people watched. 

Then I took a little cycle tour of the inner city and down to the old aguaduct - amazing. Another park called me in and I sat for a while with a big, freshly squeezed OJ. 

I made my way to the Airbnb - a delightfully eccentric building right behind the Cathedral, had a shower, did some laundry and wandered back out to the city. 

It's great when a place tickles whatever is the equivalent of taste buds for exploring. There's a real sense of loads to discover and see! 

I am not being disappointed!

My first stop was a nearby bike shop. I want to pick up some brake pads and check out the tyre situation. It was open when I cycled by, but closed, for siesta, presumably, when I walked over. 

I grabbed a coffee and doughnut and people watched in the park. I was amused by a young guy doing everything he could to get the girl sitting beside him to kiss him. She clearly liked him, but there was no way she was going to be engaging in any public smooching! 

Then I took off, taking a wander. Around every corner there is another beautiful building or little plaza. I visited the most wonderful little church. The entire wall behind the altar is of carved wood





Update: 

Morelia is like hell on Earth for the tourist!

Walking around after nightfall with the buildings lit up I quickly realised I'd have to explore everything again because it's really like two cities - one in bright sunshine, another in moonlight!





Another day is called for here, at least!







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## HobbesOnTour (17 Mar 2020)

Days 181-2, Tuesday/Wednesday March 10/11, 2020, Enjoying Morelia 0km, Total KM 6633


What can I say about this town? Words are failing me and no pictures will do the place justice - but you should have a look online anyway. It's another UNESCO world heritage site and it is very easy to see why.

It's funny because one blogger in particular really didn't like the place - he found it too clean and untypical of Mexico. I suppose in many ways he's right - there is no mistaking that this is a European built city. Walking around I could be in Italy or Spain. The people, too, look more European than even Patzcuaro just down the road. This was one of the premier cities of New Spain, was a centre of learning almost from the start and gave Mexico one of its greatest Independence fighters. 

But enough of that - it is simply beautiful, wonderfully relaxed and absolutely not overrun with tourists. In fact, it is just a normal city (albeit exceptionally pretty) going about its day to day business. I think that's what speaks to me the most - I can just mingle and observe.





There are so many churches and spires that you need to be an expert in steeple identification to navigate by them! And the plazas! The beating heart of the city. My favourite thing is to grab a coffee and just watch; a couple of old men playing chess beside me, a young couple over there, crazy about each other in the warm afternoon, behind them an old couple sitting in a peaceful silence. Walking by, a couple with their kids. Later some street entertainers will take over a section and take turns doing their acts. In another corner various Superheroes are standing statue still - no easy feat when the little kids edge closer and closer and finally in a fit of courage push one before running screaming and laughing away. In another area kids are practicing stunts on their BMX bikes or skateboards.

These scenes are recreated all through the day and late into the evening. Of course it helps that the weather promotes all this!

There's a calmness too, even moreso than in other Mexican cities. For one the taxis and collectivo minibuses are remarkably quiet - hardly any honking of horns. The narrow streets lead to long traffic jams but most drivers take it all in their stride.

The buildings are unbelievably elegant. The uses may have changed but the facades have stayed the same. And churches? Everywhere! The Cathedral is simply magnificent, inside and out. The paintwork on the ceiling is amazing, detailed and beautiful. The organ is incredible. I felt overwhelmed looking at everything. I think I could spend a whole day in there and not see everything. Yet another church down the road is beautiful in its simplicity. They are all in use. It's not possible to find an empty church. If there is no service there are people praying or having confessions heard. As a tourist that makes me feel a tad uncomfortable, as if I am intruding.

In one church I observed a man, early thirties, deep in prayer near the front. When he had finished, he rose, shuffled to the aisle, genuflected, made the sign of the cross and slowly walked backwards down the aisle never once turning away from the altar. Several times he stopped to genuflect and make the sign of the cross. Such displays of faith are impressive to me.

He's not alone. In just about every church I've been in I've witnessed people deeply committed to their faith, many of them young. 

One of the striking things here are the doors! There are some magnificent doors in some of these buildings. They may not be originals (but I think they could well be) but they are certainly in the style expected of those times. Huge, thick, many ornately decorated. It is a little odd to see modern locks inserted in them, but many still have the old locks and handles. It's a lovely way to pass a few hours wandering around looking at these doors - or maybe I'm just a bit odd!





I made an unusual mistake on my first night and chose the wrong place for my food! I knew I'd made a mistake when my pollo (chicken) fajitas were served with chips! The next night I made no such mistake, finding a simple, busy place on a side street. I burned the gob off myself (first time in Mexico!) but the food was still delicious!

I've noticed myself with the salsas (sauces), that at the start I am very stingy but by the end of the meal I am liberally applying spicy salsa everywhere! 

There's an old aquaduct here that is just stunning. I visited it twice in two days just because the light falling on it was different. There's also a " El Callejon del Romance", (alley of romance) a tiny street with lovely bushes growing. I'm not sure of the backstory but when I visited there seemed to be a TV crew doing a feature. Since the closest thing to a romantic partner I have is a stuffed tiger I hotfooted it out of there! 





The city is surrounded by mountains. I can stand on the main Street and at each end mountains are rising out of the distance. The same applies on some streets running perpendicular. After much wandering I found the perfect junction so that even though I'm in the city centre I can look in any direction and see mountains! Somehow they look much more attractive when I'm not on the bike! 






There are a number of museums here. Like Guadalajara there's a regional museum and thanks to the Lonely Planet I could see that it would be a lot of the same stuff that I have already seen. I did, however, pay a visit to the José María Morelos museum. A son of this town he became a priest and then one of the main players in Mexico's first and futile attempt to gain independence.

The history is fascinating since it was less a desire to be independent but more a resistance to the French takeover of the Spanish crown. I have to admit that my knowledge of this period is weak - in Ireland we concentrated a lot on Irish history of that time. J.M. Morelos was quite the character, working from a young age to support his mother after her marriage broke down, becoming a priest, then independently wealthy (yet apparently generous with it), before following his religious mentor into war, becoming a successful leader of men and general waging five successful campaigns against the Royalists before being captured, tried and executed. In between all that he managed to father at least three children with two different women. You've got to admire the Catholic church!

Morelia was named for him. The Spanish called this city Valladolid.

The museum was well put together (in the house he bought for his sister), with a lot of English and in a beautiful building. As always, the staff are very helpful and proud of their subject. One girl followed me up the stairs to the second floor and made sure that I didn't do the upstairs part backwards! Maybe word is spreading through the museums about me and my appalling sense of direction!





The other "tourist" highlight of my day was the University Library. If ever there was a home that showed it valued books this is one! Simply beautiful. It's a working Library and was quite busy (free WiFi I'm sure was a factor) so that I felt like I was in a church - a church of books.

Education has been a big part of this city since its inception and I believe some of the documents here date from those times. For anyone who loves books this is a special place.

On practical stuff, I had a message from the bike shop that they may be able to get my tyres, but won't know until Wednesday. An easy decision was made to stay another day! If I can get the tyres, great, if not, there are far, far worse places to be spending a day. 

Since I could have a sleep in I decided to take a late wander in pursuit of a drink. Walking close to the main plaza I could hear some wonderful music and headed towards it but it stopped before I got my bearings. Instead I wandered around but the offerings were rather disappointing until the music started again - on a rooftop! Up I went and had a delicious Margherita looking at the Cathedral opposite the plaza from me. There are moments that will stick in my head from this trip and that is definitely one of them.





My second day in this place of wonder did little to quench my thirst for this place. If anything it was akin to trying to slake my thirst with salty water. The more I see the more I want to see.

I went back to the Cathedral, this time during mass, and sat in for the sermon. Lots of people in attendance, an older priest speaking at length in quite a soothing voice. I hadn't a hope of picking up anything, unfortunately, but people were rapt in their attention.

I took a wander to the Zoo to see some of the wild animals I've missed in the wild. It was better than expected, but a lot of the animals were hiding from the sun. Highlight was definitely the Lion, stretched in the shade less than two meters from me. I've now seen a tarantula and several snakes so hopefully that is it for the rest of the trip!





Then I crossed town heading for the Panteon, the cemetery. Zigzagging through side streets away from the plazas and churches. Passing a bar I heard the sound of a football match so settled in for a cold beer and the drama and excitement of the Liverpool Atletí match.

Four goals later I arrived at the cemetery. This is my first cemetery in Mexico, although I have passed many outside the small towns. A typical characteristic is that they are colourful! The first thing that struck me about this one was chaos! Try to imagine an American city laid out in blocks - the design is a bit like that. But in this city there are no planning controls - massive buildings side by side, then a simple iron cross. There are no headstones as would be typical elsewhere. There are mausoleums instead, some rectangular and flat, others like little houses with photos and memorabilia from the deceased, even a chair for visitors to sit in. There are even bigger ones on two levels! Some are like little houses, while others are more artistically designed - a church, for instance.

The lack of "planning control" is evident because sometimes two structures are not parallel, some have subsided into the ground and some have collapsed. In one case, a mausoleum has extended into the path blocking it completely!

The place is huge. Often just a date of death is given and one spot can be used by several people of the same family. It is really overwhelming.





I came across a burial but didn't get too close. I also passed one little building with the usual - flowers, pictures of the deceased, momentoes. The door was open and music was playing from inside while just outside a lady was sitting alone with her thoughts. 

Heading back to the centre I again took lots of narrow back streets. Instead of shops there were many workshops from wood to upholstery to metalwork. Men working in tiny little spaces, piecemeal. It really is interesting to watch these micro businesses in operation. Instead of going to Ikea, people pop down to a furniture maker and he puts together a table or desk or wardrobe for them - sometimes while they wait. He has no space to build up a range of stock. 

A couple of days ago the women of Mexico went on strike for the day as a protest against domestic violence against women. Two women die violently every day. I can't say that I was aware of the protest at the time, but a pedestrian street here has a display of pairs of red shoes, each pair signifying a victim. The aquaduct has a name and a picture of a victim on each support. It would take a heart of stone not to be moved by these symbols. 





This is a complex place; on the one hand it is very family centric and that is evident everywhere I have been, on the other hand corruption and violence are rife. In some places human life is very cheap. A friend sent me a link about an Irishman working with indigenous people in the north, in cartel country. He does what he can to help people, many illiterate and uneducated, assisting them in their dealings with the government. The biggest challenge is defeating the appeal of the cartels who can offer young men, especially, a livelihood. 

In some parts citizens have set up vigilante groups to protect themselves from the Cartels and the police! 

Cartel involvement in non-drug businesses is growing. "Taxes" are levied on farmers, illegal logging, fuel theft are all expanding areas of revenue for them. Government is able to do little and in some cases local government is actively involved! It's no wonder people are taking matters into their own hands.

In the end I never heard back from the bike shop. Oh well, I had another wonderful day. It'll be back on the road tomorrow. 







For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Mar 2020)

Day 183, Thursday March 12, 2020, Morelia to San Juan Benito Juarez 49km, Total KM 6682

Min meters 1844, Max Meters 2304

Total Climb 668 Total Descent 638



A better writer than I would paint Morelia as a refined and beautiful woman, possessing many seductive attributes, most significantly the ability to make her man feel totally comfortable and at ease while still retaining an air of mystery and excitement.

Such a theme would continue when the traveller must move on, with all the gratitude and sadness that ending a brief but powerful affair brings. 

It would make a great black and white movie, our hero trying to be strong, our heroine telling him she'll always be right there if he ever returns.

Bittersweet. That would have been the perfect ending to my time in Morelia - but it wasn't!

I was up early and finished my packing. Outside, when loading up the bike I saw one of the bolts securing my rear rack was loose. It's a Tubus rack with a weird head so my multitool doesn't work. I had to unpack my pannier on the street to get my "proper" tools and tighten it. 

Job done I set off for one last coffee. I migrated to the main plaza and again just watched the people. I can't emphasise enough how nice it is to be in a "real" place as opposed to a touristy place.





I stocked up on some water at the Oxxo and for the second day in a row the same assistant tried to leave me short 100 pesos. Once can happen, twice is not good. Most unusual I do have to say I find the people refreshingly honest.

I was finding it hard to drum up enthusiasm for the ride ahead. Of all the places so far, Morelia is proving the hardest to leave. I'd even changed my route to drum up some excitement! My next big place is Tula to visit some ruins. It's north of Mexico city. I've let cycle.travel choose all the back roads and I've marked off as many accommodation options as I can. I'll divert to whatever options are closest as I go along. Backroads mean adventure!

Other than trying to cross a six lane dual carriageway in the morning rush hour cycle.travel did a great job of getting me out of town. Morelia has proved the most cycling difficult of all the cities so far in Mexico. But even trying to cross that dual carriageway demonstrated the soul of Mexico.

Traffic is moving slowly, but steadily. There are no stops, just three constant lines of traffic. One driver, in the lane closest to me sees my predicament and stops to let me across. The car in the second lane sees that and stops too! Empathy is contagious! I start to move and then the car in the third lane stops as well! I beam & wave my thanks and it's like a mirror - everybody beaming and waving! The other side is less dense, just faster but I hop across with ease.





A little later I join a main road for a moment, then turn off into the countryside. Morelia is behind me, adventure in front!

This is where we revisit our heroine. Beautiful and sophisticated she may be, but she's also vindictive and has set a trap for our hero.

That trap is a drain in the dusty road, not a lot different from hundreds of drains crossed on this trip. Except this one swallowed my front wheel and sent me flying. Thankfully nothing was behind me. I like to think I floated like a butterfly but I probably more closely resembled a sack of spuds. I was fine, no harm done but my front wheel resembled a Pringle - badly out of shape.





I got off the road and assessed my options. This was a serious buckle. The wheel would not rotate more than half a revolution. A small wobble I think I'm confident enough to fix. This wasn't a small wobble.

I stripped off the bike, upended it and went to work with my spoke tool. It took a while but I finally got it going around without resistance, but there was still a serious wobble. I swapped it for the wheel in the Xtrawheel trailer, repacked the bike and turned back to the scorned Morelia. I knew exactly where I was going. On one of my many wanderings I had come across a little bike repair shop and my casual observation had picked up something special.

The ride back was fine and I pulled up in the shop. My Spanish is nowhere near good enough to explain so I used Google Translate. The answer was a very reassuring "we'll fix it, don't worry". They did and I didn't.

I was witnessing a micro economy in action! A young guy got the wheel ready, removing tyre, tube & liner, then an older man took over. It's a little disturbing to see my lovely wheel lying horizontally over two blocks of wood while a small, wooden railway sleeper is dropped from a height to remove the Pringle shape! Then the smallest wooden chair I've seen is introduced along with a basic truing stand for tightening the spokes.

Job done! I just walked in off the street and within an hour my wheel is spinning perfectly!

I then unpacked the bike...again and fitted the wheel back in its rightful place. I plugged in the dynamo and gave a spin to check. Nada. I tried again. Nada. I plugged my phone into the usb charger and nada.

(In my head I thought I heard a female's voice laughing demonically).

My friend came over to help giving me a light with two loose wires. I held them to the connectors. Nada. I have a spare Shimano connector which I used with his light and nada.

It looks like my dynamo is fecked. 

We had a small chat about bikes, my trip and the charger. He was very impressed with it. When I went to pay it was 30 pesos - about €1,50! I thought I had misheard him and asked again. I couldn't pay that after he got me out of such a hole! I have him 100 and my sincere gratitude. Then I was back in the arms of Morelia!

I tried to ignore her charms, I really did! I teased myself by stopping in a different plaza for a cold drink and a snack. But I didn't succumb! I got out of there, admittedly casting many longful glances.

Pretty soon I was back at the adventurous turnoff but at the last minute I stuck to the main road. It was early afternoon and there was a campground about 35 km up the road. At an Oxxo I stopped & called to make sure they were open and continued on.





The road was busy, although I had a shoulder for most of it. When there was no shoulder it was exciting but I've had enough excitement for today.





It was hot, mid 40sC and I stopped often for a drink. About 8km from the campground I stocked up on some food & water. I got my backroad wish - the last 8km were off road. So off-road in fact, that I stopped three times to let people herding cattle past me. I'm glad I did because the last herder, an old gentleman on a donkey, pointed out exactly which gate I needed to go through. Without him I'd have missed it.





There was a brutally steep push for a few hundred meters to get up here. How RVs do it I have no idea.





As it turns out I am the only one here! Well, if you don't count the horses. The owner said the toilet block would be open...but no. This is a relatively new place, pitched as an eco RV park for retirees. It's quite high, overlooking a lake. However, it's right beside a busy road (no access though) and with the monster hill and rough roads it's not exactly easy to get to or to be handy for people to live long term.

I'll see places like this on iOverlander where users will comment how keen and enthusiastic someone is, but others will comment on the problems and the latest one is that it is closed. I'm sure the drop off in US traffic doesn't help at all either.

Anyways, I got the tent up and had my dinner - crispy tortillas with refried beans and guacamole salsa. Not guacamole….fire avacado!! All while the sun was going down and doing its magic on the clouds! 





It's surprisingly warm, but windy. 

What a day!


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Mar 2020)

Day 184,Friday March 13, 2020, San Juan Benito Juarez to Balneario Puesta Del Sol 47km, Total KM 6729

Min meters 1796, Max Meters 1993
Total Climb 504 Total Descent 593

Many, many years ago Weetabix did a promotion whereby collected tokens from boxes could be redeemed for a special kind of book - one where the reader got to choose what happened next. The idea was great but the execution quite poor. I only mention this now because normally over the course of a day an opening for my daily tale from the road forms in my mind. Today was no exception, but things kept happening and new openings sprang to mind. Since I think it would be unfair to choose just one, I'll open today's travelogue with them all….

I'm not the smartest knife in the drawer and struggle, sometimes, to see things that are right in front of me - especially if those things are an inconvenience. Well, after being bombarded by Coronavirus reports for the past couple of weeks it finally dawned on me that maybe heading towards Mexico City, the third largest city in the world and the most densely populated part of Mexico was not perhaps the brightest of ideas!

I love the movie "Carlito's Way". It's about redemption and hope and second chances as well as pettiness and betrayal. An image featuring frequently in the movie is of a rich, golden orange sunset, the sun a circle of light behind a palm tree. Tonight, Mother Nature conspired to recreate that image, complete with a burning circle and a palm tree. She went further though and introduced lighting in huge, multi-pronged forks to liven it up for me!

I'm sure anyone who has been camping has their story or stories of times when the weather was wild and from inside the tent it felt like you were going to take off at any moment. Mine is from a campsite above San Sebastian in Spain when a ferocious thunderstorm lit up the sky while a wild wind tried in vain to flatten my trusty Coleman! But how many of you have stood about six feet from your tent and watched it twist and bend and contort in the middle of a storm? I had that unique (for me) experience tonight. It was exciting if a little nerve-wracking!

I was apparently very tired yesterday and slept well past dawn. When I awoke my mind focused on the aforementioned virus and gave me pause to think again. I brewed up some coffee and sat in the early morning sun with my big map in front of me. The more I looked the more it seemed my plan was a foolish one. Doing effectively a semi circle around a huge mass of people, taking a bus into the city itself and probably using public transport to get around the city itself over a few days and using more hotels than campgrounds. I'm in a strange country, struggling with the language and falling ill is not going to be pleasant. Time to rethink, methinks.

I was very slow to make breakfast and get packed. Just as I was about ready to go Arturo, the campground owner showed up, apologising for not being around earlier to open the bathrooms. I wasn't too bothered but he did ask me to keep my distance because of the virus! Seizing my chance I asked him what the latest situation was here in Mexico. There are no major restrictions (yet) but advice is to cut all unnecessary human contact. He wouldn't charge me for my stay and said I could stay as long as I liked. Having little food or water I needed to move on anyway. But where?

Going south is a lot of mountains. Going west to the coast and south will bring me to Acupulco - and that is currently a danger hotspot. Heading east will bring me to the Gulf coast, another coast to coast and an interesting way south, although probably hotter than it is currently. I really couldn't make up my mind.

In the end I decided to head off and let the ideas filter through my mind as I cycled.





First thing was to get back down the monster hill - no easy task, even walking down.

Then it was bouncing along to the little village where I stocked up on water and fruit before hitting a proper road.

It was already hot because I had had such a slow morning. I'd effectively decided to keep heading towards Tula on the basis that I could either turn south or west from there. Given the accommodation options and the late start I chose the cuota instead of the backroads. The cuota actually ran past the campground and traffic had been light all morning. 11km after leaving the campground I cycled past it! (I'd had a good snoop and there was no way of sneaking in to it).

I would have preferred the adventure of the backroads but the cuota was faster. As things turned out, I got the worst of both worlds! The shoulder was brutal! Rough, potholed, lots of loose gravel, I was bumping around almost as much as I would on a backroad!





But the countryside was good! On the cuota it feels like I'm removed from the environment - everything seems so far away. 





There were frequent stops wherever there was shade. There were a lot of descents followed by slow climbs. The heat is really taking it out of me. I've upgraded my water choice because some of the cheaper waters start to taste vile when they warm up. I stopped a couple of times to eat an orange too. After one of these stops the bike felt sluggish when I went to move off. Front wheel flat as a pancake! Bah! I unpacked, flipped the bike over and set about finding the culprit. It wasn't difficult. A nice big thorn right through the tyre! It was too hot and too dangerous to spend any longer than necessary on the side of the road so I used a new tube and got going again.









I became aware of the feeling of being cooked from the inside. By now all my water was warm, but I drank as much as I could. My target was the toll booth where there was bound to be a chance to eat, drink and rest about 20km further. I eventually rolled in and had a choice of places to eat. I chose a restaurant, got a cold drink and some tacos and slowly cooled down. It was a bit early, but there was a thermal bath place just down the road that iOverlander said allowed camping. I thought it was worth a shot so finished up and went to Oxxo to stock up on some food. Outside had changed! First of all it was very humid. Secondly the white clouds had become a bank of grey, ominous clouds. I weaved around the toll booth taking a turnoff from the cuota and rode a couple of km to the place. I was soon made most welcome, got pitched, had a shower and took a dip in the thermal pool. I'll tell you, a swim and a soak in a thermal pool is a great way to finish a day's cycling!





As I was soaking lightning started flashing and thunder rolled closer. I got out, dried off, got dressed just as the heavens opened. I'd pitched in front of a little shop with an overhanging roof and this is where I took shelter. To the west the sky was bright and clear but to the east I could see the bad weather rolling in. And such bad weather!! The wind was ferocious! And soon the rain absolutely lashed down! I was watching the side of my tent cave in then pop back out again. At times it seemed like it must be blown flat but it held up. When I was pegging it out the ground had been roack hard. I was so glad now that I had used a piece of firewood to hammer all the pegs in. There was nothing to do except pull up a chair and watch my tent battle the storm from the relative shelter of the covered area. There were times when I genuinely feared it might blow away but the pegs held. The rain was coming so hard and heavy now that large puddles were forming and little rivers starting to flow. I started having visions of the washout near Tupelo but the rivers were flowing away from the tent.

At a certain point I remembered with a degree of horror that my day clothes (including my wallet & phone) were lying in the vestibule. I braved the rain, grabbed them & checked the damage. The phone was wet - not a good thing.

As well as the rain and wind there was thunder that shook everything - myself included - and fabulous displays of forked lightning! 

Most interesting of all was away to the west where the sun, still high in the sky was trying to shine through the murk. As the evening progressed and the sun sank lower the while western sky was lit up in the most fabulous orange, the sun itself a glowing orange circle visible through the wet air. A nearby palm tree finished the beautiful effect. Here I was in the middle of a ferocious storm and to all intents and purposes westwards was a work of art!

The wind changed direction for a while then slowly petered out. The rain fell for longer, dying off until eventually it too gave up. 

I cooked up some dinner and checked the tent. Some dampness inside from where the outer had been blown inwards, but pretty good shape overall. I had a look around for a better pitch in case the weather turned bad again, but my pitch was fine. After dinner I lazed around for a while and then went to bed. Within minutes I was sound asleep.


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Mar 2020)

Day 185, Saturday March 14, 2020, Balneario Puesta Del Sol to Laguna Larga 34km, Total KM 6763

Min meters 1973, Max Meters 2926
Total Climb 1281 Total Descent 496


It is really difficult to describe just how influential the heat is here. A little while ago I pulled in to a nicely shaded spot and rested up. I read a chapter of my book and started to head off. As I was leaving Gizmo was reading 23C. For about twenty minutes I watched the temperature rise to 43C!! That 20C difference is a fine summer's day in Ireland!!

I was very tired again last night and slept right through the dawn. When I crawled out it was like another world! A bright blue sky, a wispy wind and a beaming sun! Hard to believe last night occurred at all!

I got up and started making coffee, taking my gear out of the tent airing them. I unpegged the tent and moved it to better dry it out. Water was between the footprint and floor so a little drying was necessary. The power of the sun is amazing!!

There was other activity in the park, people raking leaves and generally getting ready to open.

I took my time packing up, waiting for the owner to show up to pay. When she did she seemed a wee bit insulted that I wasn't staying, asking did I not like the place! I explained as best I can that I needed to keep moving. Mind you, a sunny day at the pool was a very attractive option!






Today was my backroad day! I am sick of the cuota. The countryside is spectacular but I am too far removed from it. I was going to be doing a lot of climbing too. Setting off I was in fine spirits! I'd learned the power of the storms here (rainy season is approaching) in relative comfort. I was ditching the cuota and getting back to small town Mexico. My first road had friendly folk and dogs laying in the middle of the road! Can't be too much traffic! The first village is about 20km away. Then I turned the corner and found this:





So much for my backroad day. 20km of that could kill me! I had two liters of water and a little food. I turned around and rejoined the cuota - there is no other option. I'll be able to get off after about 25km and then the backroad fun can begin!

I was finding the going very tough. The shoulder was really rough, full of potholes and leftover tarmac creating mini mountain ranges. I kept checking the wheels for flats and my brakes to make sure nothing was pulling on the cables - it was that tough. In the end, I pulled in and tried the two trailer panniers on my front rack. Steering was a little heavy at first but I got used to it. Perhaps it's just the placebo effect but I thought the climbing was a little easier.





When my turnoff came from the cuota I was glad. I had about 30km to go and some serious climbing but at least I'd be on a road! There was a small cluster of businesses including an Oxxo at the junction I needed. The sun was blasting down so I thought this would be a good time for a rest and a last stock up before the mountains.





I sat down in the shade and took out my Kindle. A boy and a girl selling fruit came over to investigate the bike. I smiled and said Hola. The girl scampered off but the boy stayed, staring intently at the bike or me. He wouldn't engage in any conversation just stared sullenly.

A little later a couple of big buses pulled in and a string of students hit the Oxxo. Once outside the girls came over, all full of questions. I was happy to try and oblige. The boys, however, stayed back. Mazi became a star of many photos! They were all on their way to an overnight camping trip. God help the poor teachers trying to control that lot!





My other innovation was to use my camelbak. I filled it up as best I could with cold water and set off to climb some mountains.

At first it was straightforward enough but the deeper I went the steeper it became. In the end, there was nothing for it but get off and push. I didn't have a specific destination in mind, I knew there were several thermal bath places up in the mountains and some allowed camping.

The only complication was the sky - becoming darker and the sound of distant thunder. This was like the Appalachians - steep climbs and lots of sharp s-bends. The only difference was the heat! I was happy enough that when a van stopped and offered me a tow and then a lift I declined gratefully. 





I came to the first of the camping options, or at least a sign for it (10 mins down a side road) but it was in the area of a huge plant that I presume is harvesting the thermal energy. There were many vents releasing a foul smelling gas so I continued on.

The thunder came closer and then the rain started. I stopped to throw on a rain jacket but the rain soon stopped - to be replaced by hailstones!! By now the worst of the climbing was behind me so I was back on the bike cooling down rapidly. I was delighted to see another thermal bath place with a big sign clearly showing camping! I pulled in and presented myself in the office, a wet, bedraggled, shivering specimen of manhood. I was denied! No camping! I clarified that it was just a tent I had, I needed very little space but the response was not what I have come to expect from Mexico - go down the road. So I did, glaring at the tent sign as I cycled past. Soon I was descending again and getting very cold. I passed a car wreck - the road turned left the car went straight. Everybody was ok, apart from a bit shocked. I came to another thermal bath but they had no space for camping. Finally, I came to one, paid my entrance and set off looking for a spot. It was still raining so I stopped to shelter for a while chatting to a lovely couple and their cute daughter. After a while of shivering I decided the best thing to do was to have some dinner, so out with the Trangia and I heated up some frijoles, supplemented them with tamales from a mobile vendor and waited for the rain to stop. 

This is a proper campground and thermal baths around a lake. There are no marked pitches, just set up wherever. In many places that would lead to chaos, but this is Mexico! 

The rain stopped and I grabbed my chance to set up the tent. I went to the bathroom and got ready for bed - all before 8pm! The thunder returned, then the rain then the lightning! Mexico is pulling out all the stops!





I had gone from overheating to shivering in the space of a day. I also realised that I've become a bit complacent. I hadn't fastened one of my panniers properly and some rain had seeped in. Ortliebs are only waterproof when you fasten them correctly!


Once stripped out of my wet clothes and wrapped in my sleeping bag I was soon warm again. There was a lot of noise from other campers, mainly from the children and the parents trying to get them to bed! I consider that nice noise and I wasn't bothered in the least. There's a lovely comfortable vibe in the area. Despite the chaos of the pitches everyone seems respectful of the others. 

I wrote up a bit of this travelogue, read a bit of my book and quickly fell asleep. 


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Mar 2020)

Day 186 Sunday, March 15, 2020 Laguna Larga Rest day 0km, Total KM 6763

I was asleep early last night, the background noise of people relaxing and enjoying themselves proving no hindrance at all. I slept fitfully, though, having several vivid dreams. Not disturbing ones, just ones that make you think. 

Again, the sun was well up when I dragged myself out of my warm cocoon. I'm close to 3000 meters high - it gets cold at night. I made some coffee and watched the world around me coming to life. The family beside me had a small fire used to make burritos for breakfast. The next family over had a waist high grill (wood fired) for cooking on as well as a large fire for the sake of it, I suppose. I took my flask of coffee down to the shore and enjoyed the sunlight gently bathing me. There are worse ways to spend a Sunday morning.





It seemed like the world and its uncle were wandering around the lake. There are lots and lots of tents, almost all, cheap, freestanding dome tents bought from Walmart. These are all single skin - they have no inner. They must be hell in the rain or with condensation. I can see one "family" sized tent as would be common in Europe. Families will have two, three or four of the small two person tents rather than one big one. They have lots of cooking gear though - not a stove in sight! It's all fires, or wood burning grills. The aromas can be wonderfully teasing!





Sitting in the sun without a proper destination in mind I decided to take a day, watch the locals at play and plot a bit of a route for the next while. I've decided against the gulf of Mexico route - I think it will be too hot and too busy. Instead I'm heading south through the mountains, hopefully off the main roads and away from the city. I'll pull away towards Puebla and then roll down to Oaxca. It'll mean a lot of climbing, but hopefully on quieter roads, more options to camp and the possibility of hitting the coast again. I'll probably travel shorter distances but that's not such a bad thing - the Coronavirus is shutting down borders further south. Frankly, it's a bit frustrating to be doing this again. I'd spent a good bit of time in Morelia researching the next stage and had to bin it. 

With that in mind I kicked back and relaxed. Tried a little Spanish homework. Truthfully I'm struggling with the Spanish. I can get by, but the chatting to people, the connections are suffering. 





It's interesting to watch the people. There are a lot of people here, some walking around at 10am swigging out of a beer - but not a hint of antisocial behaviour. People are pulling and dragging little wheelie suitcases around. Food and family gatherings are the main thing. You can see where a row of maybe ten tents is actually all one family from grandparents down to little tots. The only activity on the lake itself is boating - pedal boats or row boats. Any other water activity takes place in the thermal pool which is packed. I was sorely tempted to have a dip, but decided that discretion might be the best option in the current pandemic climate.





I've no internet connectivity here but yesterday Facebook was flooded with all kinds of "information" about the Coronavirus - a lot of it seemingly dramatic, incredible and wrong. Still proving to be my best source of information is the Australian travel service - their current advice is to avoid any non-essential travel abroad. They point out, in a rather dry manner, that while you may presently be able to enter a country you may not be able to leave! For some strange reason "Hotel California" is stuck in my head!







For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Mar 2020)

Day 187 Monday, March 16 2020, Laguna Larga to Ciudad Hidalgo 31km, Total KM 6794

Min meters 2099, Max Meters 2981
Total Climb 260 Total Descent 920


Well, Mexico is certainly giving me a lesson on weather!

There were rumblings of thunder and distant flashes of lightning when I was falling asleep about 10pm. Sometime after 1 am I was treated to the most amazing audio & visual display I've ever witnessed! Out of nowhere, it seemed, a gigantic, earth shaking crash of thunder sounded directly overhead! I was just coming to when the whole area was lit with a blinding flash that probably lasted less than a second but seemed much longer and left me half blind for longer still! This continued for an hour or so, huge blasts of thunder, gigantic flashes of lightning. There was hardly any wind at all, so it seemed to be just hanging over the lake. Not long after the initial flashes and crashes large drops of rain started to fall on the tent and soon it was torrential. There was nothing to do but lie back and be in thrall to nature. About 2 am the thunder and lightning seemed to move away, although the rain stayed, but half an hour later it was back! An incredibly impressive display, if not a great night's sleep! 

It was well after dawn when I woke up and I was feeling very sluggish. I skipped coffee in order to get on the road as soon as possible. I wanted to get a good run down the road. In fact, today was going to be a good day! A relatively shortish run down to Ciudad Hidalgo where I'd rest a while and wander around the town, then a longish run down the road to another campsite. Best of all, I'd a lot of descending to do!

While the tent and everything in it had stood up well to last night's storm, I was disgusted with myself for leaving my Spanish notebook carelessly on the floor in the vestibule - it was soaking wet!!

I rolled out of the campground and immediately began a steep climb for the first km or so, then a steady, and sometimes steep, descent began.





It was not pleasant. First of all, the road surface was brutal, especially on the bends and there were lots of them. Potholes, big cracks, loose gravel, uneven patches all meant that I couldn't surrender to the fun of the descent. The shade from the pine trees made it all the more difficult, rolling from bright sunshine into dark shade made it harder to see the potential dangers. In many respects this was similar to the Appalachians - lots of s-bends - but the road surface was far more treacherous. And the trees were different.





At one stage, I pulled up at a low wall and sat, stupefied at the scenery around me. I should have been thrilled, excited, captivated but I was none of those things. I had a nasty headache and I was not feeling good. I was alternating between being very warm in the sunshine and bitterly cold in the shade.





I continued on down and as time progressed I was finding it harder and harder to focus on the road in front of me - it seemed to be rolling underneath me faster than I could process it - and I was by no means going fast. 





Coming up to Ciudad Hidalgo I saw an Oxxo and pulled in thinking a coffee would be just what the doctor ordered. It wasn't. Just as I was about to leave it started to rain so I sheltered under an awning and read my book for a while. By the time I was ready to go again my focus had changed - I needed a hotel and to rest up. I was running a temperature but still very cold. I was feeling very lethargic and my head was pounding.





I rode into the town which was not at all like Lonely Planet had described. I'm not seeing a lot of the beautiful architecture it described! Now that I had a phone signal I discovered I had no data but managed to find some free WiFi. A quick look and a cycle around and I settled on a hotel. All I wanted was a hot shower and bed. Unfortunately, no hot water. I bought a bottle of 7up and went to bed, shivering and sweating.





I must be the world's worst patient! When I tell myself I'm sick it's like I'm on death's door! Having said that, I think this is just a reaction to the hail and rain I experienced on the way to the lake campground. I got very wet and very cold. I'm fairly sure I'm not suffering from CV! 


For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2020)

Day 190 , Thursday March 19 2020, Ciudad Hidalgo to Aporo 20km, Total KM 6914

Min meters 2017, Max Meters 2296
Total Climb 447 Total Descent 428


I spent three nights in Ciudad Hidalgo, changing my hotel after the first one. I'd a decent internet connection and the news coming in was not good. Countries were shutting down, some more orderly than others, some more authoritarian than others. It became clearer and clearer that a decision was looming in front of me as to whether to continue or not.

I left my hotel once per day just to get some food, otherwise just reading or watching some YouTube. It would be fair to say that my "touring head" wasn't really engaged.

It's amazing how a potentially wonderful tool like the Internet can be so full of crap. Trying to find accurate info on what was happening, to whom and where was a matter of picking through umpteen arguments, shouting matches and malicious misinformation. Since I tend to think better after a ride I looked online for an Airbnb that had a long vacancy, found one and booked it for a few days. It was in the mountains, in a small village - a good place to think and possibly sit things out for a couple of weeks.

I only had a short distance to cover so set off later than normal, stopping for some chicken and water.

Getting out of the town was easy enough - I was even given priority by a traffic policeman at a junction!

The mountains around here are spectacular with many more jagged peaks than before. Sometimes the contrasts of the bright blue sky, virgin white clouds and the varying shades of blue mountains beneath them are simply breathtaking.





The road was a simple two laner with light traffic. Progress was slow because I was in no rush, the views were great and there was one very steep, twisty climb.





I passed through a small village with a wonderful church where the Police were very friendly. I've been reading reports of other countries where the Police are less friendly to foreigners.










The road I was on was heading to one of the Monarch Butterfly sanctuaries and was very quiet. The temperature was hitting the mid thirties so I took advantage of a shaded bus stop to kick back and read a chapter of my book.





Continuing on, I soon reached the small village of Aporo and had a cool drink in the little plaza. I had a little exploration of the village - it has a wonderful church! - then headed for my AirBnb. 










My hosts are incredibly friendly & hospitable. There's a lovely big garden and an outdoor kitchen for me to use. I've a three day reservation which I am going to use to think my way through my options.








For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122
Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Mar 2020)

Well, this is the kind of post that doesn't belong in a travelogue - there'll be no travelling for a while!

I'm here for the foreseeable future, currently by choice, soon the choice will be removed.

The Irish Embassy have been simply wonderful. I registered my journey with them and replied to an email for an update on my situation. That was immediately followed up with a cale l from one of the staff. Their standard advice is to "go home".

I have to admit that this had a deep impression on me. It was explained that it was likely that I would not be able to leave soon.We also chatted about the situation further south and the possible length of time that the virus would be causing problems. He also specifically mentioned the necessity of a support network.

I found the information to be intelligent, sensible and delivered in a factual, as opposed to dramatic, way. At no time did I feel forced one way or another.

Like I say, this made a deep impression. I researched flights, spoke to my hosts about storing my bike & some gear here for up to two years.

When push came to shove I could not press the button on my phone. It was that simple.

My reasons, I think, are valid.

First of all, I have no "home". I sold my house before I left NL. If I return there I have no place to stay, no job and most importantly, no health insurance! My travel insurance is not valid in the country the policy was taken out in.

In NL, I would be depending on the goodwill of friends, little prospect of employment, the risk of falling I'll and without my bike to get around.

In Ireland, the situation would be similar, although I'd be covered if I got ill.

In both places I'd be making myself a burden on friends for an undetermined timeframe. That's not something that sits easily with me.

I'd consider the travelling itself to be a significant risk for infection. I'd hate to be responsible for carrying the virus to friends.

Where I am I can effectively self isolate and in a location that is perfect for it - lots of space, good wifi and fabulous hosts.

Deep down, I also know that if I left here I'd never return. My budget just would not sustain it.

Finally, I wasn't ready to stop this trip. Maybe it's just my midlife crisis, but my main objective in this trip is to figure out what to do (and where to do it) for the rest of my days. That's not altogether clear yet and I don't want to give up on that. I've learned that the destination is rarely the highpoint of a bike trip - it's the journey that's important. Staying put in a place for months is just a part of the journey.

As requested, I emailed the Embassy to inform them of my decision to stay. This was immediately followed up with a phonecall from the Ambassador, herself! Expecting to be chewed out I was instead given practical advice (introduce myself at the local health centre just in case I need them later). She knew of my trip and invited me to the Embassy when all this is over. I was told to stay in touch and not hesitate to contact them for any reason at all.

I cannot commend these people enough. A guy on a bike travelling around should not be getting this kind of attention! I'll take it, however, and am very, very grateful for it.

I have moments where I ask myself just what the hell I've done, but they are few and far between. I'll be working on my Spanish, catching up on my reading, doing some planning for the eventual restart.

I consider myself to be incredibly lucky to be in my situation. I have the budget to see this through for a few months, I'm in a great location with genuinely good people and I'm healthy. I'm not driven by an urge to get somewhere just for the sake of it and I have no clock ticking down to an end date. I'm content to stay where I am.

I've read some nasty and scary reports from cyclists in other countries. Perhaps I'm just incredibly dumb, but my gut instinct and my experience of my three months in Mexico is that the people are fundamentally good and generous. I don't anticipate a significant anti-foreigner issue as is happening elsewhere. To be honest, of all the countries to be in at this time in this part of the world, Mexico is probably the place to be.

As far as I know there are people reading this all over the world so I send my best wishes to you all. Stay safe and look after each other.







For comments or questions please use the chat thread here: https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122

Thank you!


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jun 2020)

Day 262, Sunday May 31, 2020, Aporo to Aporo 26km, Total KM 6940

Min meters 2220, Max Meters 2430
Total Climb 574 Total Descent 685

La aventura grande grande vive!

Don't be getting excited, I'm not back on the road, well at least not in any travelling sense. 

But I am back on the bike! For the last two days after being off it since the middle of March!

My first ride was yesterday, nothing to trouble the writers of "The Longest Bike Rides…...Ever!" I stuck to the road, climbed out of the little town and while Gizmo will show a total of about 14km, I had the feeling I travelled further than Elon Musk's rocket ship! 

It was pretty much uphill the whole way, a quiet road and when I got too hot, I turned around and hooped and hollered back to town.
*Back on the bike! Wahoo!!!*​





Today, feeling a bit more adventurous, I tackled a hill and then a bit of secondary road. I was feeling so good that I followed a loop.

For cycling, the ascent was brutal! Pretty much 2km straight up with a grade of 15%. The secondary "road" was…... interesting. When the ascent continued on sand and gravel my poor worn back tyre couldn't cope without a load so I ended up walking a while.
*Adventure! *​





But this wasn't about the cycling. This was about México and adventure and Mexicans.

I've been following the adventures of Covid 19 on its Big Big Trip far and wide. I am constantly looking for somewhere to go, somewhere I can keep this dream alive. 

I've been coming to the same conclusion for the last few months - this is the best place for me - but as the time has dragged on, as the situation has turned scarier, as some of the worst elements of human nature have surfaced and spread like a stinking sludge I've stopped _feeling_ that I was in the best place.

Nothing like a bike ride, especially a bike ride on México, to slap me around my self-pitying head and get me to realise just how damn lucky I am to be where I am!






I met people who waved and smiled. I met cars and pickups who pulled over for me, or slowed down to reduce the dust. Three teenagers passed me on an ancient motorbike (social distancing how are you??!) smiling and waving. I met groups of cowboys off on a Sunday jaunt. 

An old cowboy stopped to talk to me and I had my first proper conversation "on the road", with a stranger, en español! 

Words fail me to describe just how important that moment was for me. As is so, so typical of this country he never stopped smiling at me as the conversation became longer and stretched my vocabulary and I began to struggle. He encouraged me, complimented me, welcomed me, wished me luck. Fuelled by his gentle nature I finished strongly and if pride is a sin, I'm destined for the hottest part of Hell!





Someone must have been slicing some big onions when I continued on. In that brief conversation a lot of my fears were put to bed and I realised that this hiatus is going to give me the chance to get so much more out of this little adventure! It may well not be on a bike, but I can live with that! 

Not an idea. Not a theory. Real life proof!

*Whatever's down the road and around the bend.....I'll be ready!*​





A little later I met some more Cabelleros, and another stopped for a chat. However, this time his compadres joined in and I was swiftly brought back to earth! One chap, in particular, didn't say a word, but just beamed at me the whole time - much the same way I imagine I'd smile at someone manning a taco stand after almost three months of very basic cooking! His eyes lit up from the moment I said where I was from and how I ended up on that dusty road chatting to some guys on horses!





Maybe I'm missing the road more than I thought, but in any case, there's something very special about the people in this beautiful corner of our planet.






I'd be neglectful if I didn't mention the girl who waved and smiled at me from a passing car as I watched another large group of cowboys turning into a field.

And to think I was nervous venturing out on my bike!! The biggest threat I faced was from random chickens squawking around the road!

It's a funny thing how we get used to things. Layer by layer things land upon our shoulders. Sometimes "waffer thin" as the guys in Monty Python might say. So light we don't notice them, but layer by layer they build up, getting heavier and we don't even notice. The posture might change. We might slow down. Maybe not sleep so well. And we don't even notice. Day by day the layers get heavier. The New Normal - the phrase of our times. We just get used to the load.

If we've good habits we can shake them off when they land, or maybe periodically. 

If we're lucky those close to us see them and help us remove them. 

If we're smart we'll notice them before they smother us and do something about them.

If we're none of those things then we'll keep getting loaded down, until one final "waffer thin" layer finishes everything.

I guess I've had a lot of layers fall down on my shoulders these last months. There's been some scary stories from the road, lots and lots of warnings. Those warnings kept me off the road. I'd gotten used to them. The New Normal. 






My 14km yesterday, my 12ish today may total up to 26km on the road, but in my head I've travelled further than I think I've ever done before!

*Cowboys! Look out for some on your next ride! *





As always, comments are most welcome here
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jun 2020)

Day whatever… .it's really not important!


So, I've been getting out on the bike for the past few weeks. None of the trips are massively long, but all are interesting. I'm feeling the climbing, but the roads are great fun!





There's an ad in Dutch TV for a Belgian style wit (white) beer, a typical summer beer. It starts with the camera positioned in front of an old building with the big, wooden gates closed. Suddenly the gates are thrown open and a whole lot of very pretty girls in their summer outfits come flowing out of the brewery (it could be Dentergems or Wieckse - I can't remember!) It's actually a very accurate ad because everyone looks better in their summer clothes!

I mention that here because it's summer here and the little towns are filled with lots of pretty girls in their summer clothes! Ocampo, a town not too far away, was filled with them on a Sunday afternoon! Cycling on a footpath (!) weaving in and out of people looking for a bank machine I even got a big smile from a particularly pretty police officer! Even her big machine gun seemed benign!





It's amazing the things I forget! A few days back on the bike knocking around and I'm reminded just what going around Mexico on a bike is like.

First of all, the music! So many houses with speakers blasting out the songs. Anywhere else it would be annoying, but here it just fits right in.

Then there's the roads and the fact that you just can't rely on them! Every now and then and for no apparent reason the surface is gone, the under surface is gone and you've no idea just how far down you're going to go! Adventure is all around!





That leads on to the next thing I've forgotten - the fact that lanes of the road are just a guideline, a gentle suggestion! Not on the main roads, but on the smaller ones around here, certainly. There's no malice, no danger but it's ….. interesting to watch a car or truck weave from side to side as it heads towards me! Sometimes I'll do the same and we'll pass each other, both on the wrong side of the road.

One thing I hadn't forgotten, but have missed are the roadside food stalls. I pulled up to one the other day and had two delicious tacos with the most eye-watering salsa! Fantastic! 





I think anyone that's cycled in México will be aware of the speed bumps! They're frequent, of varying designs and impacts. The worst ones are located at the bottom of hills! Hit one of those at speed on a loaded bike and you'll know all about it! 

Then there's the proliferation of VWs. The beetles and the old style vans have the most impact on me. There's something so cute about them, especially when mixing it up with far larger traffic.

The thing I've given myself the hardest kicking over are the smiles. They're everywhere. What I'd forgotten were just how natural they are. One evening, out as the sun was falling I came across three young guys hanging out at the side of the road. Two had bandana masks around their faces. Automatically my Spidey senses are active - I'm in the middle of nowhere, three young lads, staring at the gringo and then the guy without the mask breaks out into a huge, bright smile! Spidey senses sent packing! 





Sometimes I really feel like a stranger in a strange land in a strange world in a strange galaxy, floating in a strange nebula. In other words I do not recognize where I am. Jose made me feel like that today, and absolutely not in a bad way. 

It all started, as a lot of my stories do, with me being a dumbass! 

I'd set off to Ciuded de Hidalgo after my breakfast and my Spanish lessons. I needed cash and I needed to pick up some decent coffee. There's a brutal climb on the way back so I wasn't going to be loading myself down - just a nice spin and running some errands.
*Ciudad De Hidalgo*​





First stop was the bank and, as is quite normal here, there was a long queue - except this time it was outside because of Covid. Since the sun was shining brightly everyone was queing in the shade so I parked my bike up on the opposite side of the car park and locked it, using my combination cable lock and my shorter padlock. 

Now, way, way back when I was dreaming of this trip and getting things together I had a long, long think about locks. Away from home, travelling every day by bike a combination lock was the way to go. However, I could not find a decent quality combination padlock that wasn't huge but I did come across a padlock designed for marine use that fitted my bill - except for the fact that it used a key. Much humming and hawing later, I plumped for the better lock and figured out that under my normal touring regime I wouldn't lose the key.

Do you see where this is going?






Standing in that long bank queue I had a whole lot of time to call myself several uncomplimentary names because while my padlock was holding my special "springy" lock in place, my key was 20km away in Aporo! I guess cycling in a pandemic is not my "usual touring regime"!

After lugging my locked bike around town (the one and only time I have ever considered the weight of my bike!) I finally got directions to a locksmith and this is where José enters the story. It was his store, tiny, him, his key cutting machine, his wife and two young kids trying to do some homework and peek at the silly gringo with the locked bike.

I'd be dishonest if I didn't say that I hadn't the greatest first impression of José. What I'd describe as prison tattoos decorated his arms and legs. Perhaps his locksmithing skills were acquired under less than legal circumstances. Perhaps they were an indication too that he wasn't very good in his area of expertise!





However, a warm, genuine smile put me quickly at ease and he set to work. His wife dealt with the other customers who came along, but when one insisted on dealing with José directly I had to argue with him to deal with his customer. On a bike tour, time tends to be less important. On a bike tour in México that's doubly so. On a pandemic inspired, paused bike tour in México time is an irrelevance!

For an hour Jose toiled on my (surprisingly good!) lock. First picking it didn't work. Removing the rubber cover he drilled holes to remove springs, breaking a drill bit in the process (lock still intact!). More holes, more springs until finally success!!

Delighted, I wanted to pay him to get the big surprise! He wanted me to bring back the key, then he could replace all the springs, seal the holes and my lock would be almost as good as new! I'd expected my lock to be toast, but no! Most surprisingly of all, José didn't want any money because the job wasn't finished! Stunned, I wandered away thinking, again, what a very, very different country this is. Me, a stranger, a foreigner, sent away and told to return whenever I like. He knew my first name but no phone number, no address, nothing to track me down. Maybe it's just me, but I was deeply touched by how natural it seemed for him to trust a stranger. We'd chatted a little as he worked, but that was the extent of our relationship. 





(When I did return the following week to drop off the keys I insisted on paying - it was less than a fiver! We had another good natured argument when I tried to tip and finally he accepted it on behalf of his kids). 

There is something very special about this country!

*Home; Down the road, around the bend and up a hill! *​





Any comments? Fire ahead!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jun 2020)

Day Whatever  Monday June 29, 2020

_A six street junction controlled by traffic lights. I'm waiting patiently on a red light watching with bemusement at the chaos in the centre when a guy rolls up beside me on an ancient MTB, a big dog on a lead and heads off into the chaos. Neither him, the dog nor any of the traffic appear to blink an eye.

An elderly woman approaches a man who appears down on his luck and tells him her coffee has sugar and she doesn't like it. Could he help her and take it from her.

A modern office block with a huge tree directly in front, its expanse blocking light from most of the first four floors. Anywhere else I've lived that tree would have been torn down. Not here!

An eight storey building swaying from left to right 15 meters in front of me while people stand in the street. That's my home wobbling in an earthquake!

Apartment blocks, cafes and restaurants with hydraulic parking spots to double capacity.

A man, probably in his fifties, asleep, covered by a blanket in one of the little gardens often created around a tree along the street. He's alone, but there are others under different trees.

A residential street lined with trees, the roots above ground, weaving and twisting in a style that brings Tolkein vividly to mind. The pavement is not just uneven, it's sloping violently, that part that hasn't been broken by the power of the roots. A little bit of magic outside someone's front door.

Shiny towers, reaching for the sky, millions of carats in the bright sunshine, but soulless in comparison to the shabby convenience-store-downstairs-and-packed-living accommodation-upstairs on the street around the corner.

A mass of cables and power lines, seemingly in a massive tangle, with cables running in all directions to nearby buildings and some, broken, cut or just waiting for connection hanging down, mingling with pedestrians or cars. Occasionally scaring the Bejaysus out of an Irish cyclist out exploring.

Trees. Everywhere trees! All different kinds of trees. Everywhere!

And smiles. So many smiles_.

Just some scenes from Mexico City, Ciudad De México or just CDMX.

*I ❤ this scene! *​*



*

You'd think that after experiencing an earthquake for the first time in my life that that would be the opening to this post, but it's not. It's not the most significant thing to have happened to me in the past week or two - Mexico City has happened to me and rather than focus on the few moments of sheer terror I'm choosing to concentrate on this fabulous, beautifully chaotic (or chaotically beautiful ?) city.

I've fallen, and fallen hard, for this place. Without meaning to make light of a serious situation, I'm starting to think that this pandemic may not be a bad thing at all, for me. At best, my plans for visiting CDMX would have been for 3 or 4 days, leaving Roccado and gear somewhere outside. Well, I've clocked up double that time now and I'm looking at a few months here and I still can't see how I am going to experience everything!

My hosts had business in the city and at the last minute offered me the chance to come along. They've an apartment in the city and it would give me a chance to visit the immigration people and enquire about extending my visitor permit. I jumped at the chance and on my first full day headed into the city centre. 

These are my words from then;

_Wow! The museum of fine arts, El Palacio de Bellas Artes, is a beautiful building! It stands alone, supremely confident in its ability to amaze. Beside it is a wonderful park, filled with grasses, trees, multiple statues and fountains and, of course, many, many seats so people can actually enjoy it. _





_This is Mexico, after all, and parks seem to be a vital place in every community, no matter how large or small.





The park closest to where I am staying is a little run down, but is filled in the evening with people walking their dogs, jogging, walking, eating together or simply watching the world go by. 

The squirrels here are so tame that I had to walk around one a little earlier.

I'm a stone's throw from the Centro Historico, but will have to take a less direct route to it. The street linking me to there is closed as part of the Coronavirus precautions. 

It seems like the City has three sections, (although I'm sure that will rise to four when I get to the pre-hispanic areas). The largest is the suburbs stretching out and around the centre - individual communities, all part of a larger being. It seems certain areas are specialised - for instance, close to my apartment the streets are full of stores & workshops for cars and car components of all types. While some would be familiar to us in the form of large chains, the vast majority are small, nay, tiny independent businesses operating out of a tiny workshop/store. Need your car fixed? Pull up outside and they'll do the job right there on the street!

Another area of the inner city is devoted to electronics - repairs, sales, everything! Hundreds of tiny operators touting their wares cheek by jowl. These stores are currently closed due to the virus, but many have handmade posters with WhatsApp numbers for individual contact and presumably "emergency" service. Yesterday, I was amused to watch a clandestine electronics store operating illegally, customers being ushered through a small door in the shutters. There's a healthy disrespect for the law in these parts.

Later I found the "bici cuarto" the area for bike sales & repairs. Like the car quarter, this had a hodgepodge of stores, most tiny, with the work being carried out on the street. A few bigger stores had full displays of bikes, while others seemed to specialise - some just seemed to be selling wheels, for example.

A quick survey and I'll have no problem replacing my cassette and chain - 7 speed - and will even be able to pick up a 14-34 one which will make the climbing easier.

Another area is along the Avenida Paseo de Reforma, where all the modern skyscrapers are. A beautiful avenue, planted with lots of trees, bushes, flowers and grasses, the occasional fountain and statues. A Starbuck's on every block a marker of this modern quarter.





Then there's the "Centro Historico" around the Plaza de la Constitucion. I was blown away by this place and wandered around doing laps, the buildings aweing me on every pass. But the side streets were fascinating too! Old buildings, repurposed over the years with shops and businesses below, apartments above. Some old, elegant buildings retaining their elegance through age and neglect, others not so much. But so interesting. Sometimes I'd walk up one of these streets only to turn around and walk back down on the other side just for a different perspective. _

_*Literally a shell of a building, directly opposite the grandeur and elegance of the Palace of Fine Arts!*_​_





And doors! So many great doors! Like Morelia, but more used, more real and less presentable - but I love them!





I took hardly any photos simply because I didn't need to. I have the most precious gift of time and I'll be back again.

I know the city is particularly quiet because of the virus, but I've loved wandering around. Everyone is wearing a face mask but have no problem congregating in the shops that are open. Signs are up warning that the city is at the worst stage (red) of their warning system, but there seems to be a casual attitude to safety.

On the bus on the way into the centre it started off about half full but quickly filled up to the point it was standing room only. There doesn't seem to be any limits on public transport, yet a visit to the supermarket entailed a temperature check and the guys at the door seemed to be counting people. 

My experience with the Immigration folks thus far has been positive. I went down to the main office yesterday with my host to enquire about extending my visitor permit. By law, these cannot be extended, instead a new one is needed and normally easily obtained by leaving the country for a few hours and re-entering. Of course, this is impossible at the moment and the Government here is offering the opportunity to extend the permit on humanitarian grounds.

Joining the socially distanced queue outside I was becoming anxious when the people in front of me were receiving clearly negative responses. When my turn came, the lady listened patiently to my erratic Spanish explanation and referred me to a more senior colleague. Really nervous now, I related the story again, the bike trip, the difficulty in travelling, the desire to continue at some stage. No problem! Here's a form with all the info you need, an online portal to supply them with basic info and I have to return on the last day of my permit to get an extension. He was wearing a facemask but I'm sure he was smiling behind it as he explained this.

Mexico is great!

I'm not sure how I feel about being treated differently on humanitarian grounds, but I'm incredibly relieved and grateful for how the Mexican approach is just so…..human!_











I had a few more days in the city, visiting the local park daily to eat or have a coffee and watch the people. There is a wonderful calmness and tranquility I find. There's a real sense of society in that everyone seems to get along. Even the dogs!

There are huge numbers of dogs here, very much part of the family. In the park there's a specific area for them to play off lead, but this being México, that rule is widely ignored. Now, as a (former) responsible dog owner, I'd tend to have a problem with this, but in México, even the dogs understand society and getting along. They might run and chase and play with each other but there isn't an ounce of malice or aggression to be seen. I can sit and eat in total peace - not a single dog will try for a quick snack. 

I'm now back in the city and have made the decision to move here, visa extension permitting.

Yes, it's a risk to move to an urban area since the virus is not under control here. But, I like to think of it as a calculated risk.

My hosts can reopen their business and having me out of the way can only be a good thing. By making use of their apartment I can repay some of their hospitality by paying for an unused asset.

And, frankly, the chance to live in this huge, historical, cultural and downright amazing city is just too good to pass up! Time will tell whether I've made a foolish choice but right now I'm incredibly excited and massively happy to be here.

Why? 

Because this place is just so crazily beautiful.

The people; like elsewhere, so quick to smile, so welcoming to someone who is obviously a stranger. I'd expected less smiles, both at this time and in such a big place, I'm so pleased to report that my expectations were wrong.

I'm not stupid and I know that any city has some dodgy folk and I've seen a few hombres I thought better to avoid, but for a city of this size, at a time of such crisis, it is incredibly welcoming! 

The architecture; There's everything here from modern, towering skyscrapers of glass to buildings built by the Spaniards and everything in between, often with hardly anything separating them. I'm definitely starting to turn into a building admirer and can happily wander around marvelling at what is, what once was and what the hell were they thinking! I'm really excited at the prospect of visiting so many churches! They're all closed now, but the ones I've seen are calling me to go back and appreciate them properly. Whether it's the great Cathedral, in a state of disrepair with actual trees growing out of it!, or the more modern ones, with fancy facades and less behind to a couple I saw sinking into the ground, they have so many stories to tell.





In my own quirky way, I'm entranced by the trees here, but especially their roots! Trees are everywhere, I'm presuming to provide shade and coolness in the heat. Many of them have been here for a long, long time and their roots are above ground, weaving and winding and swirling around. They break up pavements, have had sections of pavement removed and planted with grasses or bushes. They appear to be the kings of the city - imperious, powerful and unlimited by humans. 





I'm loving the fact that the city is so alive, despite a serious lack of people and businesses open. The bike quarter was fantastic, a hive of activity despite the virus, the car repair quarter the same. It's amazing watching two guys working under a car with no wheels, some kind of a support front and rear - on the street! Cars and trucks passing by means that one bump and there's a car on top of two guys! There's a real sense of energy and industry, despite the fact that time seems to be an irrelevance and everyone seems so laid back. 

As elsewhere in México, noise is everywhere. I'm charmed by the fact that service providers advertise themselves through speakers even though we're in the Capital City. Like in Aporo where I could tell the gas man by his musical horn or the fruit, veg or ice-cream folks calling out that they were around, I can hear similar in this city of 9 or 21 million (depending on where you want to draw the boundaries!)

On one of my bike rides near Aporo, I came across a battered car with two speakers strapped to the top. The sound quality was so bad I couldn't figure out what they were selling but I stopped to watch them bounce down a little road, turn around and on the way back old women and little kids had come out to buy tortillas, as it turned out.

Whatever they're doing, they're doing it just right - the noise is loud enough to hear, not loud enough to ignore and at a level to be interpreted as a service rather than an annoyance - or maybe I just have my traveller head on!

Another noise is from the birds! There are so many trees and so many parks the birds have lots of real estate options! In the quieter ones I can be treated to one of nature's natural orchestral scores. A couple of minutes walk away the main thoroughfare can be filled with big diesel engined trucks, ancient, dilapidated vans and pickups and motorbikes either puttering or roaring depending on their size and state of repair, but where I'm sitting all that is a distant hum and the birds reign supreme.

Of course, there's the people noise too! The other night, sometime after midnight, someone started listening to some very sad ballads. Of course, that meant that a lot of the neighborhood heard them too! In Holland, someone would call the Police for that. Here, it just seemed ….. normal. Who hasn't, at one time or another, reached for the vino tinto, or a beer or maybe a tequila, thrown on some sad music and wallowed a little? 

There's one particular area, not too far from me, that is just amazing! It's home to the Leon Trotsky museum (he was assassinated here) and the Frida Kahlo museum (a very interesting woman who created some very interesting art and lived a remarkably interesting life - yes! A whole lot of interesting!). It was at one time, a kind of artistic or architectural quarter and it is filled with the most interesting houses and buildings, tree lined streets and emits a wonderful sense of calm beauty. I set off for a bit of exercise one evening to see where the museum was - it's currently closed due to the virus - but soon forgot about my destination and just wandered the streets. Londres (London), Berlin, Viena, such elegant street names and such elegant streets. As it transpires I'd walked past the museum twice and the back of the Trotsky once, but that wasn't important. One after another there was something captivating and interesting about each building. I was walking, and for the first time in years I realised that even my bike would be too fast for this neighbourhood! There are some wonderful cafés and restaurants in the area too, the restaurants old and classically decorated, oozing charm and character - but they are all closed at the moment, or only available for take out. Something to look forward to! 

This morning I took my bike out for my first ride in CDMX. It's fair to say I was a little apprehensive, but even here, in this massive city, I felt relatively safe, and certainly a part of the transport community. Initially, my route kept me to the smaller streets, later I was on some of the main thoroughfares. Apart from getting confused at one or two junctions (sometimes there's 5 or 6 options) and a wariness of big puddles (because I don't know if there's a hole!) it was fine, fun even, and with some of the dodgy surfaces it even felt adventurous! 

At one stage, I pulled up and stopped because the thought had just flitted across my brain that I was riding my bike in México City!! Sometimes I forget just how far I've come! 

Before I conclude this long, long with-hardly-any-bike-activity post, I need to throw in something about my Spanish. I've been working diligently, every day, making up my own Spanish course based on Duolingo, supplemented with YouTube, my own exercises, word puzzle books and a long running Mexican soap/drama on Netflix as well as trying to use whatever I can dredge up out of my head on dogs and even people! Again, the people are wonderful, willing to be patient, helpful and repeat, if necessary. I get a real buzz out of these interactions, like today, when I stopped to get a couple of tacos and had a little chat with the cook, asking him the name of the type of sausages I saw. He was happy to oblige and went further, naming all the different meats he had, which of course, overpowered my poor brain! It feels like each one of these little encounters gives me another little power icon that I can use to power me through my next one! 

Previously, I'd have been too reluctant to try a new language until I was sure I wouldn't make a mistake. It seems my attitude to touring is creeping in everywhere - don't wait until everything is perfect, get out and have fun now, doing is learning! 

Any comments? Fire ahead!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-12#post-5884122


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Jul 2020)

Day Whatever - The Bike Touring Post

I'm acutely conscious of the fact that I haven't really touched on any bike touring subjects in my last posts so I'll try to correct that here in one go - not that there's much option for bike touring these days.





The first thing I'll say is that the city riding has become a bit more challenging physically and psychologically.

Physically, the city is getting busier which means more traffic. This being México that also means more illegal manoeuvres to contend with! Breaking lights and going the wrong way on one way streets are common and I prefer to view them as part of the adventure rather than people out to get me!

Also, there's the climate. There tends to be one good rainstorm a day - with a lot of rain! This leads to flooding and given the tendency for potholes, damaged drains and the occasional absence of drain covers/grates a real sense of exploration! It also means that I shouldn't stop close to junctions as passing traffic is likely to result in a dirty shower! Another lesson learned! 

Like everywhere else in México, CDMX makes ample use of one way streets. At first, they're a tad disorienting, but I'm getting used to them and am rapidly becoming convinced that they are ultimately safer - at least they would be if everyone followed the right direction!

Psychologically, I saw a front page picture in a city newspaper a few days ago of a dead cyclist. An older man, lying under his bike, blood spread out around him like an ineffective cape. For some reason it's a vivid image that's staying with me.

However, there's a mentality here where everybody seems to want to get along. I'll see a manoeuvre where a car does something wrong, and sure, someone will beep a horn, but not in anger. More in a Monty Python "he's a very naughty boy" way. In other countries such a manoeuvre would inspire rage in others, as if the slightest impediment to their progress should be repaid with hatred, bile and worse. Here, it's just ……... different.





One of the big differences are the food delivery guys on bikes and motorbikes. Back in NL they were a nightmare whizzing everywhere, often on Ebikes. They only stopped to pick up and deliver. Here they stop for everyone! I like to walk around in no rush so if I see one approaching a junction I'll step back to let them by. Nope! They'll wait until I cross the road!

Being a tad superstitious, I did no chores until I was granted more time to stay, then I set about working through my checklist of things to do.

*The nerve centre! Tidied especially for the photo *​





First, I needed more clothes as I want to "keep" my bike clothes for the bike and not wear them out. Options were limited as a lot of stores are closed, but some large supermarkets also have clothing departments - sorted! A couple of t-shirts, some underwear and a cheapy pair of shoes.

I also needed a new charging cable for my electronics - the old ones died one after another. That was more challenging as the government had specifically closed all those stores and while the big supermarkets had them they weren't allowed sell them! The convenience store at the local petrol station obliged.

Decathlon are in México so I ordered an extra pair of zip off hiking trousers and a better pair of walking shoes.

Then it was time for the bike! I needed a new chain and cassette and the rear wheel had been making a strange noise. I brushed up on some Spanish words like chain, hub, bearing (words that I barely know in Dutch and have a vague understanding of meaning in English!) and found a friendly, competent local repair only shop. For a very low price (by Dutch standards) I got a full service, hubs and headset included (headsets scare the bejaysus out of me!), new cassette and chain.





Of more critical concern was my Son dynohub which hasn't worked since falling into that drain outside of Morelia. Truth be told it hasn't been an *essential* bit of kit up to now. Handy, certainly, reassuring definitely, but as things have worked out I've had good options to recharge along the way.

However, if I ever get going again, and I've no idea if I will, it may be necessary to take some roads less travelled and the hub will come into its own then. 

Enter Javier and Oliver.

Javier runs a bike store, specialising in Bromptons, in a city a few hundred kms away. He's also the sole Schmidt (Son) agent in México. I found him on Facebook and sent a message one Sunday evening. Immediate response.

Long story short, I can send the hub to him, he'll check it off and send it to Germany for repair. But, to be sure, before I do anything, he wants his friend, Oliver, to have a look at it. Oliver's here, in CDMX, a bit of an electric expert and he'll check it in situ.
*A local bike and yes, that contraption at the back is fixed on! *​





Should I be offended that Javier clearly doubts my technical abilities and thinks the problem may just be a damaged cable?

Perhaps, but then again, he's dealing with a guy who rode his bike into a drain! 😄

Oliver duly calls me and in a city of at least 9 million people he's less than a km from me! I swap out the trailer wheel I'm using on the front, reinstall the dynamo wheel and cycle around. He's waiting on the street with his kit and confirms what I thought - the hub's as dead as the dodo.

Javier is now checking with Germany that it's ok if I send it directly to Germany because it'll be cheaper for me.





There's something about this process that I really like. I know bike store staff have to deal with customers of varying levels of knowledge. I also know some bike store staff use this for their own benefit, selling unnecessary items and services. That's not happening here. Oliver checked out that indeed there was a problem - he wouldn't even accept beer money.

Javier is checking what's the best way for me to proceed. The best thing for him is to get involved as early as possible, receiving the hub, sending the hub and being the designated receiver of the repaired hub. He's not doing that. What's best for him is not the priority - what's best for me is!

Have I said before that I really like México?

Another issue is Gizmo, my trusty Wahoo Elemnt. After the guts of three months sitting idle he finally got some use in Aporo and I noticed immediately the battery was draining rapidly - about 20% an hour! I tried fully discharging and recharging to no avail.

It's just shy of three years old and out of warranty. Contacting Wahoo I've been offered a hefty discount on the Bolt or the Roam - the Elemnt is discontinued.

I'm very annoyed that Gizmo had a lifespan of three years. In fairness to Wahoo it got used a lot and I get a very fair price on a replacement. However, I'm not a fan of the Bolt because I think it's a bit small and I'm not a fan of the Roam because it's overpriced for what it does and it has too many bells and whistles for me. It does have a "Saved Locations" feature though, that I think is interesting for my style of travel.





The killer reason for me to reject the Roam is actually its enhanced mapping capabilities!

Because it uses far more detailed maps the unit stores less of them. For example, my Elemnt has all the Central & South American maps on it now. The Roam won't hold them all. Yes, I can download what I need later, but only over "normal" wifi - the free wifi in the likes of Starbuck's etc. won't work. For me, that's no good.

Truth be told, I don't need a gps unit most of the time. Roads here are different to Europe - there are far fewer of them! However, it's a godsend in cities. The killer point though, is that I've become addicted to Strava! Not in the sense of segments or KOMs, but in the sense of recording my daily travels and uploading photos. Now, and way into the future, there's a pictorial record of a day's travelling coupled with the route. When I started this trip I'd never even thought of it, now it's something I don't want to lose.

I'd often thought that a Garmin Etrex would suit my needs perfectly but now when push comes to shove I can't pull the trigger. There's too much faffing about with maps, too many limits in terms of points and I've read of too many issues with memory cards. It uses a different cable to my existing electronics. On top of that, I'll lose my Strava interface and uploading my daily ride will become a chore rather than a pleasure.

I settled on the perfect solution - get a replacement battery for the Elemnt - Wahoo used to sell them. I found instructions in the Web, an Ebay supplier and thought that given the tools & skills required (I have none!) I'd get the battery, translate the instructions and bring it all to a phone repair place here. Simples!

Update:
I can't get anyone to ship the battery here!

*At the right times all i can hear along here is the distant hum of traffic and the chattering and singing of birds!*​






It looks like I'll be going for the Bolt. It operates exactly as the Elemnt does - just with a smaller screen.

Update: The Bolt is now out of stock and won't be available for at least a month. I looked again at the Roam and posted on a Wahoo board online. One kind soul went off and checked the size of all the Central & South American maps for me - they should all fit! Unit ordered.

I should also add that the Elemnt has been acting up, generally too. Not reloading an existing ride when switched off and even totally freezing one day - it's never done that. This is all happening after a three month layoff. I'm not an electronics expert but I can't help but see a connection.

As regards planning for further down the road I'm doing absolutely none! I'm always scanning what's going on pretty much everywhere around the world. There's one thing that keeps getting hammered home - Covid 19 is not going anywhere, just yet.

Ideas float through my head but I give them no weight. At this stage raising hope only to see it pulled down again will not be good for me.

*It took me a while to figure out but i think this VW Beetle has had a section cut out of the middle! *​





The final part of this post is tangentially related to bike touring by virtue of logistics.

I should preface this part of the post by saying that I'm sure that more than one or two people have often had a WTF? moment at some of my more dumbass moments. Well, here's another! 😊

Finances and cash are often a troubling issue on a long trip like mine. Especially cash. How much to carry, how to carry, banks, access to banks, security - all important issues that if done carelessly can lead to discomfort or worse!

So, a few weeks ago my bankcard was rejected by the usual Bank chain I use. Not a big deal. I tried others. No joy.

I waited over the weekend in case it was a technical problem here and tried again. Nada.

I contacted my bank (Dutch) and everything was fine on their end. They had no information about issues in the Méxican banking system. That left only the card - I'd need a new one. In the meantime, what to do?

*This church fascinates me - marooned on an island at a crazy junction - oh! And rain! *​





Ha! I'd already thought about that and had a second card stored for such an emergency - remember, I hadn't expected to be anywhere for any length of time after Mazatlãn.

I took it out, activated it online for this part of the world and went looking for the PIN code.

When I got this card just before I left, I'd consciously decided to use a different PIN from my existing card for security. Of course, I didn't write down the number directly, I codified it, disguising it effectively…..very effectively as it turns out!

Now, almost a year later and under a wee bit of pressure (no cash at all in a country that exists on cash!) looking at a series of numbers generated from a 4 digit pin while under the influence of very powerful painkillers I was shtumped!

I made two attempts, both rejected, before getting back onto the bank and requesting my pin to be sent out in the mail.

A few days later I got a message from my (incredibly patient) friend in NL with my pin number. Success at last! I've looked at the number and compared it to my codified number and I still have no idea what I was trying to do!😊

Kids, don't do drugs!


Comments, questions, please fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Jul 2020)

_At the side of a recently former maternity hospital a queue of ambulances, hearses and military vans. Some making deliveries, others collecting.
At the front of the hospital the human side of this scene is on full display. 


Directly opposite the hospital, a caravan has been parked beside the park. It's offering food and, I think, some rudimentary medical checks. The socially distanced queue stretches three quarters of the way around the park. The people queueing are of all shapes, sizes and appearance. One by one they shuffle up, get disinfected, are brought inside and leave a little later carrying whatever they can in their own bags or cardboard boxes.


There's a six lane road directly outside my apartment. The middle four lanes all run downtown, the fifth and furthest is a bus/bike lane while the first and closest, is a contraflow bus/bike lane. 
A few evenings ago I watched a guy on his bike cycling towards the centre, an adult German Shepherd on a lead, a husky puppy on another lead attached to the Shepherd. This is not an unusual sight in this town! 
Approaching a junction the trio slowed down.
Seizing the opportunity, the Shepherd decided that this was the time and place for a poop! 
What followed next was pure entertainment as the cyclist stopped, attempted to scoop and bag the poop while trying to control two dogs, one of whom saw the opportunity for playtime all the while holding his bike one-handed. 


Early morning at the park and the rough sleepers are rousing themselves. One man shakes out his blanket and carefully folds it up before putting it in a bag. Most have a reusable shopping bag from a local supermarket, a few just wrap up their meagre belongings in their blanket. 


Across the road there's a large tyre fitting store. They have a delivery service - a man on a motorbike! I watched one morning as he loaded four tyres on the back of his bike! The resulting tower was taller than he was - standing - and I've no idea how the bike didn't flip back or how he got them safely to their destination! But he did because he's still there!


Taking a wander on the bike in the centre I was forced to take shelter from a heavy thunderstorm. I wasn't the only one taking shelter under a building on the Plaza de la Constitución, and as these rainstorms can last a while, people pass the time in different ways. 
The couple beside me took out a scissors and proceeded to trim their poodle's fur! Every scrap of fur was carefully collected and bagged. 


There's a wonderful park beside the Palace of Fine Arts. It's not so much its beauty that appeals to me, it's all the life contained in it. There are so many seats there are always people. There's loads of fountains and statues too. On my first visits the fountains were off, but recently, some at least, were operating. One, in particular, is more modern and is actually lots of little fountains that intermittently shoot up out of the ground.
So? 
It's great fun for kids - of all ages! They huddle close to the centre, trembling, bubbling, yelping bundles of nervous excitement until the water suddenly erupts and they run haphazardly around the jets, pushing and pulling, screeching their joy._

*Just one of the many, many wonderfully detailed, old, historical, bursting with tales, mesmerizing doors in this town!*​











There's a scene in the movie "Only You" where Marissa Tomei (sigh!) is trying to get on a plane in Rome because the man she loves is on it. Being Italy, the fact that she doesn't have the right ticket, or the fact that the flight is closed doesn't stop the flight attendants, the security or the pilot all coming together to get her on the plane. People over rules

It's a mirror image of an earlier scene in the US when she tries the same stunt - only to have security called on her. Rules over people.

Why am I dragging up an old Rom-Com? Because it's a great movie, but more importantly, it's a perfect representation of México! Sometimes, people are more important than rules.

I screwed up the form for Immigration. Above the warning that any errors would result in the rejection of my application I, confused by the drop down list on the computer screen, selected the wrong reason for my application.

Everything else was perfect - I double checked all my details - name, address, date of birth, Passport number etc. Then I triple checked the double check. I had not one letter accompanying my request - I had three! One from my Embassy, one written by my host and one written by me, in appalling Spanish telling my tale.

*After all these years I finally got to be on Sesame Street 😄*​






I know everything else was perfect because the nice lady at the desk carefully checked everything off. 

She read my three letters, taking a long time on one in particular. I was worried until she held up my one and told me it was very funny - and the best one she'd read!

Then she told me my reason for applying was wrong. Disaster! 

Well, anywhere else, a disaster. But this is México. I was passed on to a colleague whose first reaction was to tell me not to worry. Go back online, complete a new form - with the correct heading - and return either that day or the next. 

So I did. I returned the next day and all went smoothly.

The humanity on display was everywhere. The heavily armed guards on the door smiled and told people where they could "hide" their bottles of water before entering the building. The guard operating the Airport style scanner at the door as I struggled to empty my pockets, remove my bike helmet while clutching my important papers was patience personified.

*Cycling in the city is an adventure every time! *​





At the desk both days I was offered the chance to use English, but when opting for Spanish they were so patient when the lengths of the sentences exceeded my capabilities.

Big picture, the Mexican government has given me another six months to stay here - on humanitarian grounds. I could leave if I wanted - I have the resources - but I'm staying because that is what I prefer and they are allowing that. 

They didn't even charge me. My initial permit cost a little over 500 pesos (about €25). This one was free.

There are so many horror stories of people having terrible experiences in foreign countries at this time that I have to, once again, thank the Touring Gods, or whoever, that had me in this wonderful place at this time. 

*And I thought Jesus was a carpenter!*​





I'm sitting at my table working with Duolingo when Ana, my hostess, says to me "Frank, we have to go" in a strange, whispery tone. I should have known something was up as she was speaking English to me but I was quite nonchalent. I ignored the fact that Bilbo, their sausage dog, was quite agitated in her arms. 

Her husband was out getting cleaning supplies for the AirBnB and I presumed they needed some help. Or maybe she wanted to show me something or meet someone. I was in no rush and started looking for my keys. A little more urgently, she repeated her request. At the door she stopped me from locking the door and urged me to go downstairs.

I really can't remember when she first used the word "sismo" but I can recall a rapidly descending sense of doom as I trotted down the stairs.

Outside on the street there was a curious mix of calm and chaos. The calmness came from the fact that there was no traffic - six lanes of a major city artery and no traffic! The chaos came from the dogs - it seems everyone has at least one and these were the most agitated dogs I've seen in México so far. Strangely, the people, about 70 gathered in this section of the street, were subdued, but calm.

It was only then that I heard the alarm - in a city of so many noises it just blended in for this foreigner.

I've never been in an earthquake before. There was one years ago in Ireland, but Ireland being Ireland, we wouldn't have known if nobody told us. Similarly, the north eastern parts of NL have suffered a few over the years but nothing of any significance. But this is México - and México is different!

One moment I'm standing on the street, tense because I'm half expecting a truck or something to come down the road, the next I'm watching the eight storey building in front of me swaying from side to side!

I've had some scary experiences in my life. I've been terrified and I was certainly terrified that day.

It's funny how our minds work - lighting fast and simultaneously wading in glue. 
In nanoseconds I've become a structural engineer (I couldn't successfully build a treehouse!) assessing the likely direction the building is going to fall (there's no chance it won't fall - look at how it's swaying!). On the other hand I'm confused by all the agitated dogs - this is not my dog experience here. Then I become focused on the fact that Ana's fingers are digging into my arm and my mind wanders from the impending collapse to the pain in my arm. Eight storeys of masonory versus four fingers and a thumb and my brain focuses on the latter!

I've no solid recollection of how long the tremor went on but it was amazing how fast everything returned to normal. Everything, that is, except my poor heart! 

(The centre of the earthquake was far to the south and east. It caused damage down there and accounted for two deaths the last time I checked. The low fatalities do not reflect the strength of the earthquake, rather the successful early warning system that México has developed).

What was more amazing was that a good fifteen minutes after we'd reached the street, a couple with their daughter and dog strolled out of the building. I was stunned at their apparent disregard for their own safety! Then I was waiting for the inevitable calling out, by their neighbours, of not taking better care of their dog!

Later, I discovered the reason; There's a 60 second period from the sounding of the alarm to leave a building and make it to open space. If you can't make it safely to open space in those 60 seconds you're supposed to stay put! I was shown the structural pillar running through the apartment which is the safest place to stand. The family lived above the fourth floor and unable to make it downstairs in 60 seconds just sheltered in place. 

And I thought the street was terrifying! All those tall buildings had hundreds of people looking out at a wavy world!

Normality returned without any fanfare. People shuffled back inside, their dogs calm, a resident engineer did a walk through of the building looking for damage - one crack in an internal wall on the ground floor. We did a walk through of the apartment and saw no sign of any damage. 

Of course there was no gas or electricity or water - for all of about 15 minutes. I was amazed! First the electricity, then the water and finally the gas. Everything here is built to be earthquake resistant - even the pipes and cabling.

Then the memes started flying - a very funny dark humour. The first thing I did was to go on Youtube and find the "sismo alarm" so I won't miss it again!! 

*An earthquake during a pandemic *​





Later, I put together a "grab bag" with my passport, extra clothes etc. in case of emergency. Just grab and go!

Trying to calm my poor nerves, someone sent me a link to a sismo tracking site - only for me to learn that CDMX actually had 19 sismos in the last 7 days! That didn't calm me at all!

I thought that I'd assimilated and processed all the sismo stuff until one afternoon last week, sitting at my table playing with Duolingo, an alarm went off in the tyre place across the street. I was up and grabbing things before I'd figured out it sounded nothing like the sismo alarm! 

The fact is that from here on down south earthquakes are a real, if very rare, natural occurrence. It's yet another example of the concept meeting reality on this trip. I knew earthquakes were a possibility, but I'd never actually worked out what that meant. 

I have now! 😄


*So much detail......*​





*My "study" in the park *​





Perception is a funny thing. It makes us see things that are not there and ignore things that are. Let's face it, the perception is that México is a dangerous place and that drugs play a significant part in that.

Early one morning, just as the sun was rising, I was taking a wander down to the local park. The small streets I passed through on the way were still and quiet - a total contrast to the usual hive of activity buzzing about all the car workshops.

At a junction, I became aware of a noise (actually two) piercing the calm. There were two men shuffling down two streets, wearing hoodies, with bandanas over their faces and calling out a strange sound.

The sound was (and still is) unintelligible to me. A long "oooooooooooooh" that rises in pitch. 

Now, every travelling trader has their own sound - the scrap metal collectors, the food sellers, the knife sharpener, so that in itself wasn't that unusual.

What was unusual, though, was that these guys had no obvious stock to sell. 

Having read all the Famous Five and Secret Seven books, as well as some Hardy Boys as a kid, my brain is well configured to look into a mystery.

I could only come up with two possible answers.

The first was that these were looking for labour - walking around a neighbourhood, calling out and looking to round up a crew for a day's work. That's not so far fetched. I've seen a big group of men in the centre and I'm told they were waiting for various bosses to show up and hire them for the day.

The second was a bit more sinister - drug dealers, selling a little pep to people early on a working day.

The more I thought about it, the more logical it seemed that they were selling something illicit. Whatever they were selling it had to be very small and light - presumably it was on their person. They seemed to be scanning windows looking for a response - perhaps the actual transaction would take place at a regular location. In any case, if they were looking for workers they weren't having much joy.

*This wonderful building is a part of the University*​





Once I figured out what was going on I hotfooted out of there and down to the park.

A few mornings later, I had my answer. On the (main) road I live on I heard the exact same sounds, one on each side of the road. Bemused, I watched these guys slowly making their way down the road, loud and not shy. I was really interested now because they were walking directly towards a Police station! Is the corruption so bad in México that even here in the City criminals can brazenly carry out their business in plain view of the Police?

No. Not at all. A large pickup truck slowly drove past them and pulled in at the side of the road. The guys are selling bottled gas. The walkers let people know the gas truck is around and the guy in the truck does the deal! 

I'm a dumbass!😊

When, one morning two trucks from two different companies were on the same street at the same time there were no rows over "territory", no gunfights. The street was just a bit louder as the walkers tried to outdo each other! 

México is great! 






Comments? Fire away! 
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Aug 2020)

Day Whatever…….

_On an evening walk a sports car turns the corner and is driving towards me, a strange turret shaped shadow on the roof. As it passes by the shadow comes to life - A St. Bernard's head is through the sunroof grinning as it surveys the neighbourhood!

Thunderstorms are frequent and of an intensity that is mesmerising! Often the clouds are dense and low so the lighting effect is muted - but that thunder? Deafening! 

How often do you see a drain in the street operating as a fountain with water gushing up and out? After a rainstorm in this city it's surprisingly common!

At one of many streetside stalls a woman is displaying her small selection of snacks, electronic cables, chargers and loose cigarettes for sale. Beside her, a little girl, no more than four or five years of age is busy doing her schoolwork with a coloured pencil in a copybook_.

*There's something magical about Palm trees! They never fail to lift the spirits! *​





The thing about a bike tour is that no matter how well you plan it, things never go quite like you planned. 

No, I'm not talking about Covid - I'm thinking of something far, far simpler - hair!

In my naivety, I thought I'd let my hair grow long on this jaunt and maybe have a ponytail - if you're going to look like a fool, might as well do it on the other side of the world! 😄

Well, it turns out long hair does not suit me!

For a start, the only ponytail I could make would be hanging down over my nose! The hair on the back of my head appears to grow at a tiny fraction of the rate of the hair on the front!

It irritates my eyes and gets in my mouth when I'm eating - yes! It's that long!

So, once I got my permit to stay, I ordered a clippers online. After waiting five weeks the order was cancelled!

Down to the big supermarket, some miming, a little Spanish and I walked home with a clippers.

I'm not the greatest with tools and it appears that extends to personal grooming tools!

I have very, very short hair now……. and a brand spanking new baseball cap! 😄

*A scooter is referred to as "the devil's skateboard" 😄*​*



*

I'm one of those people that thinks dogs can smile (so if that annoys you, you can skip this paragraph 😀).

Why is this relevant? Because most dogs here that I've seen are like their owners - quick to smile, smile often and smile with more than just their mouths.

Dogs are everywhere here (thankfully hardly any cats 😀), wandering the narrow streets among the workshops, trotting on leads beside their owners walking, jogging or cycling, or best of all playing in the park.

Whether parks have facilities or not there are dogs. When the park does have facilities there are more dogs!

My local park has tunnels and seesaws - for the dogs! Another park seems to have two areas for dogs - one for big ones and one for the smallies.

You'll see everything in these areas - dogs playing fetch for balls, sticks, frisbees and dog toys of all shapes and sizes. What you won't see (or at least, I haven't yet) are dog fights!

I think it's amazing! One dog will rarely chase another's toy, and if they do, there's no aggression, no fighting, just playing!

*Doggy section of a park with "friendly" activity 😄*​





In my time here I think I've seen two acts of aggression - and both of those were from little dogs!

The other day, a poodle with fur clipped right back was doing everything it could to get at a bull terrier mix. Their respective owners were having a chat and yappy macyapface would not shut up!

The second was more sinister…

A Yorkshire Terrier stopped at a solid, steel gate and started yapping.

No biggy.

But he didn't stop. He kept going. Annoying.

The dog on the other side seemingly agreed and gave, to my non dog speaking ear, a one bark warning.

This only inspired the little terrier to greater insults and now started scrabbling at the gap below the gate.

Another warning bark was met with a fusilade of "your mother" insults (I'm getting good at this dog speak).

Finally, stung into action the big fella on the other side hurled himself at the gate barking ferociously and making the most vile threats against the terrier.

At which point, and this is totally true, the terrier seemed to stand on its tippy toes and proudly pranced away. Job done!

*No matter how good your lock is, spokes can easily be snipped!*​





Another day, another wonderful park.

I'd set off to clock up some decent kms on the bike but then I came to the park.

I don't understand how they do it, but even though this is a couple of minutes from a main thoroughfare, it oozes tranquility. Can the trees really absorb so much noise? The people (and the dogs of course! - there's always dogs!) are so tranquil too. There's an outdoor gym area, quite busy with a group of young men. Anywhere else I've lived there'd be shouting and roaring and typical "laddish" behaviour. Not here. In another area there's two games of soccer being played - on the same roughly marked out "pitch". People are standing around watching and cheering, but the vibe from the players is just that of a group of guys blowing out the cobwebs.

*For this Irishman the lushness of the parks, the variety of the trees and the peace and calm within just emphasise that we're not in Kansas anymore 



*​On the fringes of the park there's the choice of a classical or a jazz busking troupe.

I was supposed to be getting some exercise on the bike, but it seems sinful to leave this little piece of calm behind.

That's the problem with going out on the bike in these parts - there are just so many places to stop!






I feel a bit like a Lilliputian - I'm watching a huge giant slowly, gingerly wake up.

The virus is surging here on a literally unmeasurable scale - practically no testing is being done. Despite that the city is getting busier, without a doubt.

Whereas I saw no planes on my first visit, the numbers coming in to land are increasing daily.

The traffic has changed too. Now, heavier traffic is made up of newer model cars, SUVs and the like. A few weeks ago the traffic was noticeably older - heavily modified and repaired pickups, so common on the rural roads. They're still here, but swamped by the newer models. I'm reading that as the poorer folk had no opportunity but to go out and about in the earlier days of this virus.

My initial observations of civility amongst drivers has been slightly dented, too.

The number of stores, and especially restaurants, reopening is increasing too - although most of the restaurants are take-away only. A few have very limited seating.

Markets are reopening also. Some are in huge buildings, uncountable stalls selling food, clothes, electronics and just about anything the human mind can comprehend, others are on the side of the road, sometimes both sides!

Just about every country in Central and South America has had massive problems with these markets and the spreading of the virus. For a lot of people these are their sources of income or food. If you wanted to design a place to perfectly spread the virus, I think it would look a lot like one of these markets.

I'm staying away from them, unfortunately as I really don't want to get sick. It's a killer because I'd love to be buying my food there, practising my Spanish, chatting, browsing the incredible ranges of goods on offer and just observing human activity.

In fact, I've severely limited my outings because the virus is out of control here. I'll go out on the bike where I'm able to keep my distance from people, or go for a walk exploring the area - again limiting contact.

Sometimes I take my Spanish to the park and sit at one of a series of stone chess tables - they're off the path and no-one comes too close.

I do my shopping in the Supermarket because it's safer - although boring.

All this means that my interactions with people are a whole lot less than when I first arrived. I'm finding it frustrating, learning Spanish but having very limited opportunities to actually use it!

I've scrapped my idea of trying to do some voluntary work as I think it's just too risky. Right now I'm completely on my own in a huge city on the far side of the world from where I normally live. It's selfish perhaps, but I think the best thing I can do is not to fall ill.

*México can be very colourful! If i tried this in NL the council would be banging down my door and demanding a change!*​






One thing that is very noticable is the complete coverage of masks! Just about everyone is wearing one, some have a visor covering their face as well. I'm not aware of any significant hostility to the idea of mask wearing.

(I did read a report in a UK newspaper about widespread rejection of masks as a sign of resistance to Government elites but I see no evidence of that here in the Capital).

In fact, masks have been seized on as a way to make money and as fashion statements!

I can buy action hero masks, scary masks, traditional style artisanal masks (the most wonderful, bright colours) as well as a variety of medical style masks. I can buy them in pharmacies or from any number of sellers on the street.

I have no doubt that most being sold to a medical standard are nothing of the sort, but I find it interesting that how the approach differs from north of the border.

In a fine example of dark humour I can even buy a facemask with the Corona (beer) logo!

There are official posters up advising people to stay home, if possible. There are also homemade posters up on people's houses, on streets, painted on walls asking people to do the same. There seems to be a sense of "we're all in this together".

From my own perspective, I'm starting to get worried about a "second wave" in the winter. If these things are normally worse than the first, then there are going to be big, big problems in this part of the world. 

I was reading somewhere recently that 50% of people are employed in the "informal" economy - no salary, no insurance, no pension and certainly no support in this situation. They have little alternative except work and since they earn day to day need to buy food every day - they don't have the money to buy in bulk. These two factors make the virus next nigh to impossible to control.

(This situation is replicated to a greater or lesser extent right through the continent).

I wouldn't be at all surprised to see serious social unrest in these parts during a second, winter wave. I certainly don't want to be on the road for that!

*Thankfully, I can slake my wanderlust thirst by wandering these little streets.*​





Despite the situation, the vibe in the city is nothing but friendly!

The few interactions I have with people leave me feeling warm and welcomed. I do have a few food places that I visit for dinner and the people are patient, understanding and naturally friendly. I'm well able to talk now, at least about the basics, but I'm struggling with listening and comprehending. And they say that Mexican Spanish is the slowest of all the dialects! Uh oh!

*I have no idea if this is a "new" or an "old" door, but I think it's fabulous! *​





A couple of tales from a bike ride the other day…..

I found the most wonderful old church, built right on a river, beside a fantastic old bridge. I'd spent about 15 or 20 minutes exploring the outside (the church was closed) and was setting off along a little, cobbled street, my head swiveling this way and that trying to see everything. A car coming up behind me gave a friendly warning toot (in fairness, I was bouncing along on the wrong side of the road!) shocking me and causing me to have a serious wobble outside a house with an armed policeman. (For armed, read holding a feckin' big machine gun!). I caught his eye as I tried to right myself and he was beaming at me from ear to ear. It's hard to take the machine gun seriously after that!


A little later I was riding down another little street and taking lots and lots of photos - there were so many old doors and gates. At one stage, trying to get a particularly attractive gate into focus I was blissfully unaware of a car approaching from behind. He just stopped and waited for me to take my pic without his car in the way and with a big smile waved away my apologies when I realised I was holding him up.

México is great!

Comments? Fire away! 
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Aug 2020)

Day whatever……

_It's a little after rush hour, just outside the centre and on a street with three lanes (the middle one is a bus lane) two young lads are playing, what in Ireland we call handball, basically a primitive form of squash, up against the wall of a building, using their hands as rackets.
They're dodging the cars, trucks, buses and bicycles as they hammer the ball above the pedestrians walking in front of the wall.
Nobody bats an eye. Yes, the bus driver honks his horn - but he does that all the time as a warning that he's coming. 
Nobody yells at them. Nobody swears at them. The only raised voices are the two young lads and their infectious laughter!
What word adequately describes the craziness and the recklessness of the situation yet also captures the reaction of society - "ah, it's just two young lads having some fun. Let them be"? 
I can't come up with one.

I'm on the bike travelling down a busy three lane, one way street. Approaching me is a girl on a fat bike, bright and gleaming, bounding along beside her is what I call a Dulux dog (featured in ads for paint) - a big, shaggy dog if you're not familiar with them. Happy Shaggy dog has no lead, no physical connection to his mistress. The two of them sail past me, on the wrong side of the busy road without a care in the world - and the world reciprocates.

I've said before the road outside my apartment is one of the main routes into the city centre. As such, it tends to be busy and noisy so stop for a moment and think about how happy the motorbike rider must have been that I can hear him singing as he chugs down the street. And yes, he was wearing a helmet! 

Along an almost dried up river and beside a bridge, I notice a pot hanging from an emaciated tree. A closer look reveals rice, still in the pot. A little further investigation reveals bags with clothing, a blanket, a fireplace. This is someone's home_.

Heart warming is not just an expression, here in Mexico it's a reality. 
There are very few days that I go out and don't have an encounter that is like central heating for the soul. Hell, there are days that I witness things from the balcony of the apartment that would melt an iceberg.

It seems to come down to one (or possibly two interlinked) things. People smile, almost by reflex it seems. 

And if there's a second element it's that people seem to give the benefit of the doubt. They don't just assume you're a plonker - they give you all the time to prove it - in the meantime they smile. 

*There are some fantastic old cars in these parts. Some falling to pieces, some in great condition and some restored. *​





I went back to have a look and it was the second day after crossing the border that smiles started to get a mention in this travelogue. Well, it's eight months later and they're still coming thick and fast!

The thing is, practically everyone is wearing a mask, but people here don't just smile with their mouths. It's a whole face effort! Eyes sparkle, facemasks move and warmth just flows.

Weaving through traffic at a stoplight I have to hit the brakes when a guy steps out in front of me. I'm in the wrong, he's in the wrong, anywhere else it's 50:50 if he yells at me. Here, it's a big smile.

Slowly wandering down a traffic free street, a girl steps out in front of me. I hit the brakes as does she. I motion with my head that she should continue and am rewarded with an almost blinding beam. 

Twice now, I've been engrossed in trying to take a photo and a car has stopped so as not to get in my way! The second time it was a woman with two kids in the back and instead of rushing me, she wound down her window and waved and smiled when she drove past! Pretty much anywhere else I've cycled I would have been blasted with a horn, abuse and maybe even made into an interesting mounting on someone's wall!

*It's hard to describe the feeling when coming across these streets, then setting off down them......kids and Christmas come to mind.... *​





In the run up to my application to stay here longer I was thinking about what I'd do in the big city for months.
One thing I'd decided to do was to track down all the churches and create a few routes so I could cycle to all of them.
Ha! Dumbass! 😀
Do you have any idea how many churches there are in this city?!! Bazillions!

The fact is, the idea of trying to replicate the "cycle touring" experience in this city is just not going to work for me! I used to be able to don my touring head for a 4:30 am commute in winter - but I can't do it here!

There's two reasons.

The first is that cycling here requires a reasonable amount of concentration, especially now that the city is getting busier. Traffic, obviously is a factor, although it's very well behaved in general. More of an issue is the road quality - inconsistent is the kindest I can be - speed bumps, broken or absent drain covers, the other cyclists, dogs (and their walkers!), and anyone else wanting to jump lights or just travel on the wrong side of the road. Throw in the fact that it's rainy season here with a hefty deluge daily and all the road issues can be hidden under several inches of water! Focusing the whole time on the road in front of me at the expense of what's around me and not letting my mind wander wherever it will just is not my touring style. 

If that sounds like a complaint, it's not.
*Traffic Jam! *​





The second reason is that there are just so many interesting scenes that deserve to be absorbed, felt and placed firmly in memory. 

Perhaps my poor head is turning to mush after so long off the road and too much time in my own, but it's like this city is inhabited with Loreleis calling out to me on almost every street and sometimes several times on the same street. Maybe it makes me some kind of a tramp but I can't help responding to her call. 

*Lorelei was calling Juliet-like from this balcony! *​





One day, I set off deliberately to do a 50km route. After half an hour I'd covered less than 2km. There was a church that needed exploring (bear in mind the church wasn't actually open - I was just looking at the outside!), there was a crazy junction with a beautiful building, there was a large market, so I made a big circle trying to stay as far away as possible but also trying to see as much as possible. And Palm trees! So. Many. Palm. Trees.
To me, they're magical!





Then I found a park and I lost a couple of hours in it, wandering, people watching, dog watching. 
At that stage the afternoon was almost over, I could feel the humidity shooting up - a sure sign of incoming rain - so I headed in the direction of home, having done 5.5 km! 
There was a lot of stopping on the way home too until the big drops started to fall - then it was time to mush. 

I tried to chastise myself for not doing a "big" ride, but I couldn't even do that! 

This place is exceptional and deserves to be treated exceptionally! 

In line with this new philosophy, I've scrapped the idea of plotting routes to churches. Instead I follow my nose. I pick a street and at the next junction I'll choose which direction. If I get a sniff that a church is somewhere around, I'll mosey off and explore. 

I'm back to being an explorer and I like it that way!

At the start I'll have an idea where I am and which direction I'm going, but after a while with all the twists and turns I'm totally lost! And it feels good! Darn good!

Correction: I am not lost - I just don't know where I am. And it does not matter. 
*I "discovered" this beauty!*​





I do miss the "proper" cycling though, the meditative rhythm of the pedals is good for body and mind. I'm getting a bit cuddly and could do with a bit more exercise. For the moment, though, I'm happy enough to say feck the cycling I'm going to soak up as much of this wonderful city as I can 

There's a wonderful old town not too far away from me that, at the moment defies description. It's full of history and beauty, tempting aromas and mysterious little streets, a wonderful and decrepit church and, of course a park (actually it has several). Every time I go back I see something new - so I keep going back.
(This place has touched me in places I've never been touched before - oooh Matron! - and I'm well on the way to writing it up, but it's not ready yet). 

One day, however, I pushed myself away from there and into another area. It's a wonder I ever got out! 

For a start, the streets were cobbled - with boulders, it seemed! I was bounced around on the bike as I explored. I had no destination in mind, just followed a street until I came to a junction, then picked another one. Sometimes, I doubled back to take a different option at the previous junction and it says a lot for the character and beauty of the streets that the same street was captivating from the different perspective. 

*I can bounce down here, bounce back up, then go left or right. Time and direction mean nothing - my kind of travelling*​





That's how I got to have my first proper conversation in a while! 

I'd arrived at a little round courtyard, a fountain in the centre, and was admiring what seemed to be a very old gate into the town between two fine old buildings. However a date engraved over the gate was causing me problems - MMI seemed to be saying 2001, but possibly, it was some kind of a reference to México?
*The fountain, the gate and the gardener*​





That's when a gardener working on some flowerbeds downed tools and came over for a chat!

Yes, the "gate" was from 2001, the whole area had been done up or renovated and restored. Despite not knowing what was fake and what was real, this courtyard area was still stunningly beautiful. 

I asked a question and when he responded I asked another. 

When he found out where I was from, we had a chat about the Irish involvement in the US - Mexican war. Irish soldiers in the American army, horrified to find themselves fighting in an empire building army against Catholics, promptly swapped sides, became known as the San Patricios, and fought with distinction, although it was ultimately futile.

When the American army occupied Mexico city they were actually in this area!

(On a side note to emphasise what a small world we inhabit, the former plantation house I stayed in back in Natchez, was originally owned by the man who led the US forces all the way to here!)

*The river's long gone.... but the bridge remains. *​





Then the conversation drifted into the role of Mexicans in the US army (it's often a way to gain citizenship), the poor treatment they often received and how their input has been pretty much underappreciated.

My new friend wasn't from Mexico city - he had moved here for work a long, long time ago. He hadn't much education, but he read about history. He loved history. His two sons were teachers, possibly university lecturers, and there was no denying his obvious pride in their achievements. 

I reckon I understood about half of what he was telling me, but he was very kind and patient with my questions. All in all, the conversation went on for about 20-30 minutes. I wanted to listen more - he was very interesting - but the concentration required was exhausting! 

At the end, he apologised for taking up so much of _my_ time! 

I spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the neighbourhood, delighted to be wandering around and definitely uplifted to have had such a wonderful experience - the old city gate may have been fake, but the conversation was proof that my time here in México is opening real gates to this part of the world. 

If I haven't said it before…. México is feckin' great! 

*Where's Mazi? *​





This popped up on my ipod this evening. Haven't heard it in a while, but darn if it doesn't hit the spot! 

View: https://youtu.be/pItL80swzFs


Comments? Fire away! 
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Aug 2020)

August 22, 2020 Capilla de San Antonio de Padua. Not a whatever day.

Something a little different today.

I have deliberately stopped myself from looking too far into the future. I'm of the opinion that we are living in such strange times that forward planning is a fool's errand and that anticipation, followed by disappointment, is really not good for the soul. 

However, there is one thing I can't stop myself getting excited about - El Día de Muertos - The Day of the Dead. 

Not that long ago the idea of the living mixing with the dead would have put the terror of God in me. The typical "sights" of el Día de Muertos would scare the bejaysus out of me. Now, it's something that I'm looking forward to experiencing. 

So yesterday as part of my new policy of weekends are for weekend stuff, I had visited my most favourite church here (closed by Covid), had a little chat with the man selling his wares outside and was sitting on one of the oldest bridges in all of México just watching the world go by.

Then this vision appeared (ok, out of a car, but an appearance nonetheless!)









I talked to her and asked her permission to take this photo. 


There are no more words.

_(Well, except to say that there are no "tattoo sleeves" or any other trickery - it took seven hours to do that make-up!)_


Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Aug 2020)

Day Blahdiblahdiblah

Scenes from México City:

_On a narrow, cobbled street I hear a commotion and turning around I'm met with the sight of two ferocious looking dogs hammering towards me. As American flashbacks start to explode in my head I see a third character - an older man grimacing while holding onto two leads…..and sitting atop a battered mountain bike.
They blew past me in a fury of panting and turned a sharp right at the end of the street. I've no idea if that was the plan or if the dogs just wanted to go that way!


Weaving in and out of stalled traffic near the city centre is not as dangerous as it might sound. It may seem ridiculous, but there's a pleasant vibe from the traffic, normally. But one car was different.
Four men in suits looking very, very serious. Something wasn't sitting right with me as I pedalled slowly by. 
Then one of the men in the back started gesticulating wildly at me to move on. Then I figured out what wasn't sitting well with me - the guys in the back were sitting facing the doors. Bodyguards! I hightailed it out of there. Given the angles of the rear seat passengers I reckon the back seat had been modified to allow for 360 degree views.


Dogs are everywhere here. And so well behaved!
One day I saw a labrador type sitting anxiously at the bottom of the stairs of a walkway to cross a busy road. His master was walking slowly up the steps. At the first landing he turned, gave a signal to the dog who responded with pure joy to bound up the stairs, only for the process to be repeated for the next level.
Another day in a park an older gentleman strode past me and about 10 meters behind him two shaggy spaniels were diligently following his footsteps. They remained so close to each other it seemed they were joined at the chest.
And the last doggy story of the day. Watching a lady with a little puppy on a lead cross the busy road in front of my apartment when puppy suddenly jams on the brakes as only a puppy can! The reaction of the traffic? They stopped. Not a horn to be heard. A few words from Mistress, a gentle tug on the lead puppy toddles off to safety and the traffic resumes._


For months now, I've been telling folks here that myself and my tiger are having a big adventure. After all, "aventura" is not a difficult Spanish word to remember. I've even told people that I was looking for someone soft to have an "aventura" with in Mazatlán! 

Some people have even suggested that I might prefer a female to have my "aventura" with. Nooooooo! I reply! A tiger is best! 

Today, August 26, almost 8 months after crossing the border, and 8 months of using "aventura" proudly and with wild abandon, I discover that to have an aventura is also to have an affair! 

And to think! Hobbes left me to have his own "aventura"!!! 

_*Apparently, we're having an affair*_​






It's the little things here that get their claws into me and and make me appreciate this place. 
For example, there are some very, very big roads here. Multi lane, high speed dual carriageways bisecting the city. I'll occasionally bump up against one and with no hope of crossing it, I'll set off on the footpath (bike or no) in the direction of the traffic flow looking for a crossing point. 

What this means is that at some point I'll come across a slip road to let traffic on.

From a driver's perspective, you're not going to want to stop before merging with the fairly speedy main road, yet they do. Without fail. Every. Single. Time. 

I doubt if more than 10 cars have gone past me in this situation without one stopping and waving me across - normally it's about three! And with a smile. 

*This is someone's house! Not a school or a store or some business looking for attention. How wonderfully cheerful!*​






A few weeks ago I'd planned to take a peek at the local market. It's along one side of the park and there is lots of space, so it's relatively Covid safe. The only problem when I went down was that I had missed it by a day - the perils of a Covid influenced life.

I decided there and then that something had to change - no more of one day merging with the next. I decided I was going to treat my Spanish as a more professional endeavour, follow a rigid schedule - and treat weekends as weekends. 

It's working surprisingly well!

Last Sunday I got to see the inside of a church for the first time in months! 
It's the church of the Parroquia San Juan Bautista and even from the back, hemmed in by tape it's a beautiful, inspiring building. 

I had a run in with the Police! Not really paying attention to the fact that there were three Police cars pulled up outside a house, I meandered down, taking photos of trees, and doors and sometimes whole houses. That's what sparked their interest! 
In a not terribly friendly manner I received a mild interrogation and was warned off taking photos!
More than a little miffed, I set off again but as I walked I started to think.
Three Police cars parked up like that was a sign that something was going down - most likely someone deserving of protection either at home or visiting someone.
Secondly, security here is not like security elsewhere. A few weeks ago, a group of Cartel members attacked the city's Chief of Police in broad daylight in the city. A Policeman nervous of someone seemingly snapping the whole street is perfectly understandable.
Thirdly, I dealt with the whole thing in Spanish! 
By the end of the street it wasn't such a bad thing to have happened, after all! 

*You just have to love (or at least I do!) a place that leaves this tree in situ!*​






Of course, I also got to meet "Catarina" (from the last post) a definite highlight of my little adventure so far!

I also went, willingly, into a large Shopping Mall - and enjoyed the experience. 
I'd been walking down a reasonably busy road, meandering down side streets then popping back out again further down.
The contrast between the busy road and the ever smaller side streets was wonderful and on occasion, like jumping through time.
Near a major junction on this road, a bright, shiny, modern Shopping Mall stood out, an electronic board advertising Calvin Klein. Other big signs advertised other brands - Forever 21, Pottery Barn, and lots more that I couldn't be bothered to remember.
This sight seemed so at odds with what I had just seen, I had no choice but to investigate! On entry, just like nearly all the shops, there is someone to take my temperature, place a dollop of alcoholic gel in my hands and encourage me to wipe my feet on the special mat.
I'm not a fan of shopping, even less of a fan of shopping emporia like this one was, but I found it fascinating! A multi-level mini city, with a lake and a fountain show! 
It was clean, and shiny, and luxurious and……….. utterly horrifying! 

It's just another example of the ease I can slip from one world into another in this great city.

*Especially for all those suffering from OCD*​





On that same theme…..






This photo will never win any awards but already it is one of my favourite ever.
What's not clear from the photo is that the road directly in front consists of 8 lanes and every time I have seen this road it is very, very busy - and getting busier! It is University Avenue and is one of the main thoroughfares into and out of the centre.
What I love about this photo is that within it it has one of the great characteristics of this wonderful City;

Very simply the jump from chaos to tranquility in a few short metres.

The dual carriageway in the back of the photo is very lightly trafficked and has a footpath down either side that has been heavily planted with bushes and trees.
As you step off the University Avenue and set off down the footpath, the traffic noise falls away as quickly as a lift drops you from one floor to the next.
It's a bit like stepping out the back of a wardrobe and finding yourself in another world. 
From chaos to tranquillity, literally, in a few steps. At the right time of the day even the birds are singing in the trees overhead!
It's for a writer much better than me to describe the sensation of transitioning from the chaos and the danger of that main road to the tranquility and the security of that side road. But the effect? It's incredible! It's rejuvenating! It's uplifting! It's a physical exercise I can do that demonstrates that peace and calm can literally be a few steps away. 

If there's one thing I want to grab onto, hold onto and never let go of, it's that feeling that peace, tranquility, whatever you want to call it, if lost, is just around the next corner or across that road.

And this phenomenon is repeated again and again all over this city. It may not be a tree-lined road, it could just as easily be an old, narrow, cobbled street with houses of all ages, styles and grandeur but the effect is the same. I step into the wardrobe in chaos and emerge in Narnia.

*This enticing little street is only a couple of minutes stroll from the chaos of a dual carriageway*​





In other parts of the city it's the transformation between modern and old. By far and away I prefer the old, but sometimes I have to be impressed with the modern. Occasionally, I get to see something like this.




_This photo has been enhanced to remove sun reflection on the tall building - sorry but I wasn't waiting hours for the earth's rotation to reduce the glare_

I can't tell you how many times wandering around on the bike I'll arrive at some demented boyscout's knot of a junction with traffic flying above, below and all around me. Having no destination and no haste I'll follow my nose away from the chaos and before I know it I'm (probably bouncing!) down a little street or road and the crazy junction doesn't exist anymore. 

Another way to get-away-from-it-all while still being in the middle of it all is on one of the mixed use paths down the centre of the busy road.
Normally with trees, flowers and bushes they are incredibly effective at smothering the noise and providing a safe and stress free way of negotiating the busy roads.
You meet all the usual suspects here - pedestrians, dog walkers (and dog joggers), cyclists, street vendors, none of whom are following any semblance of directional convention, but it just works!
These are everywhere but it's taken me a while to notice all of them! I'm easily distracted! 

*What a fabulous way to make your way along a busy road!*​




_Enhanced image because of contrast issues_

I'm a fan of the old VW vans. There's something incredibly romantic about the idea of heading off on an adventure in one of those. 
VW have a big presence in México so it's no surprise that there are plenty around here. Nearly all of them are "working" vans transporting cargo, although I've seen some that have been modified to be mobile kitchens or collectivo (communal) taxi-buses in some of the smaller places.

But this one is special!





It's right around the corner from me and hasn't moved an inch in all the time I've been here. 

It's a workshop. 

Inside are all the tools, parts and various bits and pieces utilising the chaos theory of storage. 
The painted sign seems to suggest he does electrical work, but I've only seen him do metal work - frames for desks or bespoke supports etc. - right there on the street! Welding parts together, sawing parts off, sparks flying everywhere and traffic sometimes taking a wide pass, sometimes not. 
If there was a place I could stand and blend in I could watch the work all day. As it is, I have to walk up and down watching the project develop, something added or amended with each pass.
During the day, he's wired for electricity - a perilous looking connection at the bottom of the pole. I've no idea if that's an official connection or not but it's removed overnight. I'm yet to catch him at the right time so see how he actually does it!

If I haven't said it in a while, México isn't just beautiful and lively, it's feckin' great!!




_Enhanced photo because a phone camera does *not* do the colours justice! _

** I've recently come across a decent photo editor that does a decent job on a phone. To date i don't think I've used any enhanced photos before (maybe a few were adjusted for light). Going on, if I post any photos here that are enhanced I'll be signifying that fact.

Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Aug 2020)

Sunday, August 30, 2020

A little recap!

It was on this date one year ago that I handed over the keys of my lovely house and with quite a bit of trepidation started this little adventure!

With that in mind here's ten photos that summarise the trip😊

Sea View 





South Carolina





Appalachia





The Feckin' Mississippi!






The greatest little road in all of Texas!






Mmmmmm Mexican Mountains!






Mexican Country Roads 






The Pacific!





Aporo





México City - CDMX - The unexpected gift!





Comments? Fire away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Sep 2020)

Day whatever......

Something a little different this week.....
https://strava.app.link/T7ahjbobz9

There's 190 odd original photos on there to give folks an idea of what one _barrio_, or neighbourhood looks like!
(There are some duplicates - in my defence trying doing it on a phone )

If you want some reading I heartily recommend:

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/my-sons-first-bikepacking-micro-adventure.266354/

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/bill-billys-world-tour-across-north-england.266445/

for some father - son adventures! 

I can't get a really good handle on how easy or otherwise Strava is to look at pictures, so if anyone has some feedback or suggestions I'd appreciate it! 

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Sep 2020)

Day whatever......

Roma

For @IaninSheffield 

_The colonia was planned as an upper-class Porfirian neighborhood in the early twentieth century. By the 1940s, it had become a middle-class neighborhood in slow decline, with the downswing being worsened by the 1985 Mexico City earthquake. Since the 2000s, the area has seen increasing gentrification.[3]

Currently Roma and neighbouring Condesa are known for being the epicenter of hipster subculture in the city, and rivals Polanco as the center of the city's culinary scene. Besides residential buildings, the neighborhood streets are lined with restaurants, bars, clubs, shops, cultural centers, churches and galleries.[4] Many are housed in former Art Nouveau and Neo-Classical buildings dating from the Porfiriato period at the beginning of the 20th century. Roma was designated as a "Barrio Mágico" ("magical neighborhood") by the city in 2011.[5]_ *Wikipedia*


*An electrical pole, cables everywhere, an ugly car..... and it's still a pretty picture. *​







I didn't set off to explore Roma. In fact, I was supposed to be heading in the opposite direction, but as is the way for someone who has the gift of time coupled with an appalling sense of direction I meandered, being drawn down here for a tree, over there for a building and around the corner just because it looked so inviting. Before I knew it, I was happily "lost", or as I prefer to think of it, in exploring mode.

It really is the most valuable of gifts - time. There's no need to rush, there's time not just to see but to savour, to absorb and to feel. To illustrate this point, having "discovered" Roma, I decided to make a return trip on the bike. I didn't make it. I stopped to watch a man teaching his son how to ride a bike - on a busy road - and once hooked, followed them into a wonderful park where more distractions pulled me hither and tither. I was "lost" for a whole afternoon. 

If I ever do make it down to Tierra del Fuego I've a sneaking suspicion that the glaciers will leave me dizzy with their high (relative) speed!

Time and México City combined is one of those special combinations like warm soda bread dripping with Kerrygold butter - each on their own are great, but combined? That's a little bit of heaven right there. Also, we can survive without them, even tell ourselves that we don't need them, but there's no denying the fact that life is simply better with them! 






I've the Lonely Planet guide to Mexico (I'm generally not one for those types of books) but I haven't looked at it for CDMX since I got here. It doesn't have a section on Roma (I opened it just now to check) but it does have a long list of trendy stores, restaurants, coffee shops and bars all with Roma addresses. Even if all those things weren't severely curtailed by Covid, I still wouldn't be in a rush to visit based on that list.

However, the Roma neighbourhood is a hell of a lot more than some trendy, hipster hanging out joints. 

*There's a house in there, somewhere, I promise! *​






For a start, as is typical here, it's got the trendy next to the old and dilapidated. There are some very exclusive small stores and boutiques, but at one end beside a park there's an open air market - cheap, cheerful and lots of it.

I can buy a taco for 15 pesos from a street vendor or pay up to five times that in a trendy joint. I can browse in a fancy bookshop or I can mosey half way down the street and have a lot more fun in a second hand bookshop with its chaotic towers, walls and mounds of books. (It's the first time I've actually cursed Covid since I got to this city - I didn't stay anywhere long enough).

*Trees in front of buildings*​





The larger streets can be chaotic, the smaller streets calmer and I can walk a long park in the middle of the main street if I so desire, traffic buffered by trees, the sunlight (or rain!) filtered by branches and leaves, regular seats to sit, relax and watch the world go by. There are also regular fountains (sadly all suffering a Covid outage). It really is an interesting experience, this island of serenity stretching through the middle of a busy road.

There are many, many elegant buildings, well secured, well cared for and no doubt very expensive. And there are near ruins, or total ruins, often within low-fat-soyamilk-caffeine-free-cappuccino throwing distance of each other!

I know this happens everywhere, but it's very common here and I find it charming. On my meanderings I've learned not to judge buildings too quickly. What looks an uninhabited wreck actually is a home for people, a wall with a large gate can be hiding a beautiful building, vibrant garden and secure parking, or that elegant church in the distance is actually falling apart up close (just about all the churches are in varying states of disrepair).

*A wreck or a thing of beauty? *​





A typical characteristic of this part of the world is the use of vivid colours on buildings. Oranges, greens, blues, yellows, pinks, purples, often in crazy, but captivating sequences. "Blue and green should never be seen" has not been adopted in México! It reminds me of older buildings in the smaller towns and villages in Ireland (or the tourist traps) - vivid colours brightening up (and possibly camouflaging cold and damp houses).






The charm, however, in Roma, is neither the buildings nor the trendy, hipster services. It's the atmosphere. The calm amidst the chaos. 

There's a hectic river of human activity flowing down the main thoroughfares, sweeping you along if that's your thing. Rivers have banks and the riverbanks here are calm, interesting, stimulating. These metaphorical riverbanks are like real riverbanks; They have trees and bushes, places to sit and watch "the river" sweep past, they're colourful and vivid, man-made and from Mother Nature. They even have "lifebuoys" if you inadvertently step into "the river". The lifebuoy? The attitude of people. I've become more and more careless trying to take a photo, often finding myself in the middle of the road. I've lost count of the number of times that a car has stopped, less to avoid running me down, more to allow me to take a photo without a car in the way. It's not an aberration, it's normal. No, scratch that - it's not normal. It's special. On that note if I suddenly disappear from view it'll be safe to assume that the American tourists are back on the roads 

*How long is long enough to soak this up? *​





This brings me to the problem with Roma, and indeed big parts of this city - the taking of photos. Forget about the massive bundles of wires and cables hanging out of poles, or the frequent low hanging or broken cables that can wrap me up or bisect a scene, the problem is obstrucion in the form of trees and to a lesser extent cars. A beautiful old building fronted by a collection of Soccer Mom cars is an interesting contrast, I suppose. I prefer when the cars are old and battered, but it is what it is. 

Trees planted in front of buildings really impact on the photo options. I can back into them and not get the full building or they can shield the whole building from the lens! The shade can distort the "real" colour or totally eliminate detail. 

Photo problem aside, the trees are king. On a sunny day the shade and coolness beneath them is refreshing, on a rainy day, they're often a huge, natural umbrella. As valuable as that may be, their real contribution is in the atmosphere they impart. 






How do trees impart atmosphere? Let me count the ways;
There's the sheer variety of trees. Some are huge, some are tiny, some shoot straight up and explode in a firework style like my favourites - the Palm trees, others are stout and bushy, providing immense cover. Some are young, are being nurtured and protected, while others are mature, gnarly and disdain human intervention as they grow at human unfriendly trajectories. I'm no botanist, and can't identify much more than a Palm tree, but the multitude of tree varieties just reminds me that I'm in a new world on a great adventure. Here, in this grand City, right up there with the Great Cities of the World, there's a wildness, a natural, living, thriving, untempered and vivid wildness that goes a long, long way towards reminding me that I may be stuck, but I'm still travelling.






Depending on the direction I take I can leave Roma and head through a poorer area, far fewer trees, more broken roads and footpaths or I can head in the opposite direction and be surrounded by gleaming skyscrapers. On foot, the transition is slow, on a bike it can be sudden and jolting, metaphorically and literally - the surfaces become….. interesting!

I visited Roma over three days, the first meandering, the second as the destination for a walk (I ended up walking over 30km!) and the third day on the bike. One day was dry, the second was sunny and hot, the third wet and dull. Each time I saw different features and when I go back again I'll see even more. 

And Roma isn't even my favourite part of the city! 







For a whole load more pictures have a look at Strava

https://strava.app.link/T7ahjbobz9

*All piccies edited.

Chat away! https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Sep 2020)

Sunday, September 13, 2020

When I first came to México City, in a neighbourhood close by I came across some wonderful looking restaurants. One particularly pretty little plaza had a few that looked enchanting. Of course, they were all closed at the time. 

Today I got to eat in one, well, technically outside of one and it certainly didn't disappoint. However, this being México, there's a whole lot more to the tale than simply having a good meal.






For the past few weeks, weekends are for weekend things. Yesterday, Saturday's, highlight was watching the Pro14 (Rugby) final - Leinster won! 

When that was over, it was out in the afternoon for a long walk. Just when I think I've seen and absorbed all that the City close to me has to offer, Mother Nature steps in and schools me.

Caught in a torrential downpour I took shelter in a Starbucks until they closed and kicked me out. Then it was hopping from awning to awning until finally, I could make a bit of progress. I was still a good seven or eight kms from home, but at least the sky was dry (the paths and streets a different story!). 

The thing was, because of my sheltering I missed the last of the daylight. Darkness had fallen and if you think that's a bad thing, you'd be mistaken.

Taking the smaller streets, the trees cast wonderful shadows as they waged a silent and still war with any street lighting. I couldn't see the colours of the trees, certainly, but the shapes were more prominent, the branches and twisted, gnarled trunks something from a fantasy. Light reflecting upwards from all the water on the street was another bright weave into the dark tapestry all around me. 

I haven't been out much after dark, certainly not within spitting distance of home, but not for one moment did I feel unsafe. 

*This is on its own in the middle of a busy road. When i first saw it on the bike I got so distracted I almost got squashed by a bus! A beautiful burst of bright colour! *​





At one stage, I passed three guys, clearly down on their luck, sitting in a doorway that would have given some shelter in the rain.

As I walked by, one of them said something to me that took some moments to process. He'd been asking for a cigarette. Ordinarily, I'd continue on, but this is México and things here are different. I turned around, strode back to them and in my best Spanish apologised, explained I was learning their language and it took me a moment to process. I offered three cigarettes, all gratefully accepted and had a chance to assess the situation. One was drunk as a lord and probably had been for a number of years. One was very quiet, eyes lowered in a face that was looking down, while the third, the one who hailed, me was the most alert of the trio.

What followed was a very interesting conversation. Hernando had lived in California for 42 years, served in the US army as a Marine and had seen action in Iraq. Once my nationality was established, he let loose on his attitude to America. To say he was not a fan would be an understatement. 

He wasn't the typical street dweller stereotype, fluent in English and French as well as several local dialects. At my request we conversed in Spanish and he looked for details of my trip and recounted some of his military experiences. 

We bumped fists as I went to move on and declined the offer of another cigarette, a stern look to his companions indicating that they should decline too. 

Today, then, Sunday, was the day I was heading back to San Angel, a former village, now subsumed in this big city. There were parts I wanted to explore on foot, since a lot of it is cobbled and is a brutal punishment on a bike. 

*Beautiful but brutal on a bike! *​





Even though i had a destination in mind, it's just impossible not to get sidetracked because I'm passing through some of the oldest parts of the city. Arriving in San Angel I skirted the market and went up a side street. At the top of this street I saw a man, certainly not a well off man, lying on the street. This is not an uncommon sight around here. As I drew closer I noticed the Police Car (also not an uncommon sight - so common, in fact, that they barely register) and some Policemen standing around. Then a few things were processed almost simultaneously. The man seemed to be at a very uncomfortable angle for someone asleep. There were also a lot of flies buzzing around him. Finally, I noticed the yellow tape cordoning off a very small area around him. 

The poor man was dead. 

How, why or for how long I have no idea. What was striking was that it seemed so normal. There was a lot of foot traffic around the market, but nobody seemed to be particularly put out. 

I couldn't but help think of Hernando from the night before and especially his two friends who seemed much less well able to handle their situation. I can't recall ever having had a conversation like that before, and bang, the very next day I witness the consequences of life on the street.

Just up the street, I reached a little plaza/park, bought a bottle of water and sat for a little while thinking.

I was familiar with this place, having visited already this week. It's home to a statue to the leader of the San Patricios (another post for another day) and a monument to the men of the Battalion who lost their lives - or to put it more accurately - were executed by the Americans.






Having gathered my thoughts and gotten myself into a slightly more positive mood I was hit with the song "The Fields of Athenry", an Irish lament for a man sent to Australia for having the temerity to steal some food to feed his starving family. 

It has to be admitted that that's an unusual song to be hearing in a Plaza in México city!

In fact, it wasn't the only Irish tune being performed by a duo, one on mandolin, the other on guitar, under a little marquee. 

There was a whole load of them! And surprisingly good versions too! 

Then they started a song with the lyrics "On the road to sweet Athy…." and we entered the twilight zone.

I hummed and hawed as to whether I should say something or not, but in the end decided that I should say something. So, when the song was over, I approached the closest member of the band, and explained that I was actually from the town of Athy (my Spanish didn't extend to explaining that it was clearly a very, very old song because "sweet" is not the adjective that immediately comes to mind these days!).

Well, if I'd told him that I was from Colombia Records and that I wanted to sign them then and there for billions of pesos I couldn't have received a warmer welcome. His curious colleague once discovering my origins, announced to all and sundry in the square of my heritage. I thought it would be an amusing anecdote for the musicians, not a major public event! Then someone suggested I should sing and that's where reality resumed. 

They asked me to stay around until after the gig, which I was happy to do and afterwards another chat was had.

The Mexican Rovers. Not a drop of Irish blood in the pair of them, but Luke Kelly is an influence and they can do a pretty good interpretation! Look them up! 

*The Mexican Rovers *​





After the public announcement I resumed my seat and was a little disturbed by a couple of older ladies making eyes at me, until I was rescued by a guy who came over to make sure I was feeling welcome in his country. He's about 9 months too late! Another pleasant chat with him recommending places to visit, just about all of which I've already seen - by accident rather than design. He mentioned Coyoacán and I told him of my near drug-like addiction. He then recommended a cafe to visit in the centre - El Café de Cuba. When I asked him where it was, he flapped his hands dismissively saying that wasn't important, I could find it easily enough, and then went on to describe in great detail why I should visit. Much more valuable than an address! 

Heading off again, I was certainly in a better frame of mind. Where I was wandering has some of the oldest colonial history with narrow cobbled streets, wonderful gates, old walls and interesting buildings in various states of repair and or refurbishment. 

*The Modern City is never too far away!*​





This is one of the wealthiest residential areas I've seen and, as is typical in my experience, the welcome is muted. There were significantly fewer smiles from people, but none of the borderline hostile sullen stares I'd receive in similar areas in the US. 

*This is down the middle of a busy road! *​





And so I wandered, bemused at the experiences this city throws at me, sometimes in rapid succession. So, when I meandered towards the familiar church, I picked one of the restaurants, bagged a table outside and enjoyed some guacamole, some mole (that's the sauce, not the rodent!) with chicken and a cold beer.

I've about another hour's walk to get home. Rested, refuelled and ready to go it could take me three hours or even a bit more!

*Can I really be blamed if I'm late home? *​





México can be hard, but it's great!

Product Placement Alert! 
At this point I'd like to give a big plug to cycle.travel. While it has worked since I crossed the border, it was only in the most limited way. I couldn't use addresses, for example, so while I have used it in Mexico, here in the big city it hasn't been of much use, especially on a phone sized screen.

I had been using Komoot now and again simply because of its address searching facility but stopped since it appeared to be trying to kill me. 

Well, last week playing around trying to find a pyramid I realised that Cycle.Travel now has the address search function working!! It's 100% operational here in México!

The best bike route planner just got better!! 

In Europe, Cycle.travel has brought me on safe and interesting roads. It got me from NL to Ireland and back with about 15 minutes of planning, it gave me better roads than the ACA in America and it literally saved my ass in Nashville when Komoot wanted to kill me on Old Hickory Blvd. 

I know Richard sometimes reads these posts so I want to take this chance to say a big, big thank you for putting together such a great tool for a bike traveller.

Muchas Gracias!

If you haven't used it before, spend a bit of time getting used to it. It's worth it. It's not perfect, no planner is, but I reckon it's the best, certainly for touring.

https://cycle.travel/

_*Before I forget..... the restaurant*_​





Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Sep 2020)

Day WhatTheHellDoesItEvenMatter

Sunday, September 27, 2020

I went out for a bike ride today! 

There's a few rules you need to be aware of to ride a bike here. I don't think they're written down anywhere, but don't let that put you off! 

*It's quiet today, but normally this is choc a block with traffic, stalls and lots and of people!*​





I suppose the first one is that a driver behaves differently when he is in your field of vision than when he is not. So, in other words, when a car is behind me I really don't have to worry. However, once that car pulls alongside me, or overtakes me, then I have to be on full alert! It appears to be a zero sum game - They see me when I can't see them and once I can see them I disappear from their consciousness! 

Another is that traffic lights are misnamed. They're just lights and appear to have little influence on traffic. They're a useful indicator of traffic flow, but not much else. There is so much light breaking, early and late, that sticking rigidly to them is a fool's game! That's not mentioning the large number of confusing junctions here often with 6 or 8 different roads. Trying to pick out which traffic light was optimistically placed for my guidance is a puzzle requiring the wisdom of Methuselah! 

*I am Tree. I grow where I will.*​





The final rule is that one way streets are, in the language of the times, fake news! It would seem that the one way system can be overruled when the driver has sufficient need. What's defined as sufficient need is, as yet, unclear to me. And of course, if you think your bike, motorbike or vehicle is sufficiently small, then one ways, like most others, doesn't apply to you! 
*A picture cannot possibly capture the feeling of these streets, influenced so much by the trees. Shade from the sun, shelter from the rain, home to birds and sometimes squirrels. Magic. Pure Magic. *​





Amongst the other things that make life interesting is noise!
Yes, there's more horn blowing now than before, but there appears to be little venom or malice. Oftentimes, it just seems to be someone saying "Hey, I exist and to prove it I'm going to hit my horn". 
It can, though, make a foreign cyclist a tad jumpy at times.
Other noises that can freak out the unsuspecting cyclist is the sound of rushing water coming from a drain. On more than one occasion I've been swinging my head looking for the tsunami!
Then there are the manhole covers. Often loose fitting, sometimes very loose fitting, they create a metallic hammering sound when driven over. You'd think I'd get used to that, but each one has its own unique sound and believe it or not, the sound can vary depending on whether it's a car, pickup, van or 18 wheels rolling over it! One day, in the centre I was ducking for cover when a big truck and trailer rolled over a particularly loose manhole!
Then there's just the noise of the mishmash of traffic - everything from ancient motorbikes to muscle cars, pickups held together with rope and a prayer to important people with their own heavily armed jeeps. There's a very strange orchestra of traffic making a lot of noise, yet, if it ever gets too much, without knowing where I am, I can find a quieter street or a little park and the noise just falls away…….





Of course, there's always the surfaces to contend with. They can be smooth, but generally not for long. Roads have been dug up, sealed, redug and resealed again - it makes for an interesting ride! There's the ever present speedbumps of varying types, heights and angles to add a sense of adventure. Cobblestones are just a fact of life. Then there's the sunken drains, potholes (for no apparent reason) tree roots and the ocassional trunk to make me really appreciate life! 
And that's just in the dry! After rain it gets a whole lot more interesting! 
*Some of the more interesting surfaces!*​






I get on fine with most of the traffic. Bikes are common here and folks are used to them. I'm more likely to smile and laugh when someone pulls in front of me. Sometimes I'll get a cheeky grin and a salute from someone when they know they've done something silly. It helps that I'm rarely in a hurry and sometimes it's fun to just pull in and watch all the craziness going on.
The exception are Ambulance Drivers. I'm fairly sure that they work on a commission basis, or at least that's the only reason that seems to match their homicidal driving style! It's instinct for me to pull over out of the way when I hear a siren. In México I've expanded the whole "pulling over" thing. I call it the "reverse sismo routine" - get off the street, into a building and get as far upstairs as is possible before the flashing lights pass me!





If all that reads like a complaint then I'm not explaining myself very well!

It's fabulous! It's life affirming! It gets the heart pumping and then gives lots of places to relax. 

Forget about "training" or Strava Segments. The place is too busy, too crazy, too beautiful, too historical for any of that stuff.

*Is there any day better on a bike that doesn't involve getting a backrub from a big palm leaf? *​





There are just too many things that deserve a bit of time to be observed, absorbed, stored. It could be a building, a car, a tree, a park, a dog, a character. To zip past, giving only a glance is a sure fire way of ending up in whatever Hell has been set aside for cycle tourists.

It's people like this that make a bike ride here so interesting! 





Yes, it's a pretty cool car, but what the photo can't transmit is the almost ear shattering volume of music emanating from the car!
He's driving very slowly through residential streets, blasting his music (I'm thinking late 80's dance), waving and saluting everybody. Everyone, and I mean everyone, receives a beaming smile, a wave, for the more fortunate he removes his hat and waves that. 
Without fail, everyone responds with a smile and usually a wave back. There isn't a frown, a Sunday hangover grimace, or any sign of annoyance. 
I have no idea if he is a local character who does this every Sunday, or if it's just normal to express your joy and share it around.

There are definitely days and they're coming around more frequently now when the road isn't just calling out to me, it's bellowing, Sergeant Major-like at me. The urge to explore sometimes, is very dominant, clouding everything else. Thankfully, this great city throws up scenes like this……





The first time I came across this sight, a cool, damp day, moving slowly in heavy traffic, my heart leapt. There is something awe inspiring about a church to me, especially an old one. Cycling in Europe, spires could act as a crude navigational tool. I missed that in the US - a severe lack of spires, but churches here are tall and proud. To happen upon one is a real treat and goes a little of the way in satisfying the exploration urge. Now that cycle.travel is working here I could easily throw a route together to bring me from church to church. Feck that! This way is a lot more fun! 

*Just a sample of things to see on a wander....a wonderful old door, an old car (getting done up during the week) three trees that bring out the child in me and a Sunday Salesman! *​







A lot more pictures here:
https://strava.app.link/Ss8DLuLv89


Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Oct 2020)

Day Whatever…….

Many years ago on one of those TV channels near the end of the list I was watching a program on airplane crash investigators.
One investigator said that planes rarely fall out of the sky for one catastrophic reason - it's normally the result of a sequence of events, each one relatively innocuous, but together, in a sequence, they can be fatal.
I don't know why, but that stuck in my head and became something of a mantra. If it delivered a lesson it was that until a catastrophe happens it's possible to postpone or prevent it just by picking up on one of the errors.
The example he used was illuminating.
A US plane in Canada had a faulty fuel gauge.
_Not a huge problem in itself since pilots also use the manifest to show how much fuel they have._
Due to a communication error, the plane was refueled with X litres instead of X gallons.
_Despite this, the plane had enough fuel to reach its next destination._
In flight, bad weather at the destination caused air traffic control to request a diversion to a different airport. The pilot did his checks, fuel gauge was good, fuel order was good and changed direction.
The plane ran out of fuel and was lost.

Why am I talking about plane crashes?
Well, I haven't been in the best of form for a while. Nothing serious, but it first manifested itself in a poor sleeping pattern. I'd wake up suddenly and have terrible difficulty getting back to sleep. This would happen several times a night, and of course, with sleep, it affects everything else.
It took me a while to i.d. the trigger and as I alluded to above it was a few things all running together.

The first was the poor dead man in the street. That took more out of me than I initially thought. The fact is that there is not a whole lot separating me from the homelessness stratum of society at the moment in that, I, like a lot of them, am operating without a safety net.
It's nothing to seriously worry about for a while, but a single, stark image got lodged in my subconscious somewhere.

Around the same time I read of a touring cyclist killed on Highway 17 in South Carolina. From what I can pick up he was south of Charleston but on a very familiar 4 laner with minimal shoulder.
He was towing a trailer with his old dog in it and was hit from behind. The dog, badly injured, survived, the cyclist died at the scene. After a quick investigation the driver was arrested.
Road accidents can happen at any time, in any place, but from what I can piece together it was on a straight road in good conditions. Just a lapse of concentration. It just happened to be on a highway that I had my own issues with.

*These rainstorms sneak up like ninjas! In front is the footpath covered in water, to the left the deeper water where path and road meet. Drains are so overwhelmed that they turn into fountains shooting water out!*​





Normally a good walk can blow the cobwebs off but the rainy season didn't so much swagger away as pause frequently, cock his leg and mark his territory! Ferocious showers flooded streets, basements, houses and soaked me twice in two days. Given that clothes drying options are minimal and I don't have a lot of clothing anyway, I was stuck inside for the guts of a week. Whenever I did go outside, invariably in damp clothing and definitely wet, squelchy footwear, I got rained on again. Here, it's not the rain falling down that gets you, it's the rivers running down the streets, the swirling rapids at every corner that soak you from the toes up! Those lovely trees with their interesting trunks and branches that I'm always prattling on about? Well, in the rain they turn into destroyers of umbrellas! The holes in the streets, the broken drains, the uneven kerbs are hidden under the water so that the wise walker soon gives up on the idea of staying dry and instead focuses on staying upright!

Tired, damp and with a bit of a cloud around my head my Spanish was suffering too. Progress regressed to the point that I seemed to be going backwards. Learning Spanish is the rock I cling to on tough days, the beacon that lights things up so I can see a way forward. A dimming light is not great for looking forward and a slippy rock is not great for holding on to.

I saw a post on Facebook from someone enquiring about driving from A to B here in Mexico and someone replied with only a link to a news story of two guys who disappeared last year surfing only for their bodies to be found in their burnt out van a couple of months later. I've read worse stories than this but when you're immobile things can land on you and stay there.

And all this time the clock is ticking and the time is approaching to make another decision.

There was a time when I wouldn't even have realised that anything was wrong and ploughed on. The thing with ploughing on when you're in a bit of a dip is that you just go in deeper.

I even discovered something I don't like about México! Actually, something I hate! And I hate using the word hate!
It's the organ grinders! Having lived in the Netherlands and Germany for a while, I'm well used to Organ Grinders. I may not like the tunes, but at least they're musical!
Here, they make a sound like they're actually grinding a bagful of cats! It's horrific! It came as something of a shock to me to realise that I didn't like the sound of cats being ground up but once the shock subsided all that was left was the tuneless, rhythmless wailing that penetrates my skull easier than an icepick!
Something I don't like about México??? Time to take action!

*Palm trees are like Nature's fireworks to me.*​





Since most of the rain was in the afternoon or evening I took to reversing the day and getting out in the morning. That meant that by evening time I was knackered and my Spanish would suffer, so instead of new stuff, I concentrated on revising the old stuff. That wasn't so hard and the confidence, probably the most important thing for a foreign language, soon started to build back up.

I went looking for the three homeless guys I'd encountered the night before I saw the poor dead man. I wanted to talk some more with Hernando, see if there was anything I could do for him. I never did find them again and after replaying our conversation over in my head I started to think that his need was less material and more human.
However, as the weather picked up I took to spending more time in the park, going over my old notes and watching people….. and dogs! The thing here is that if you're immobile long enough, someone will try to sell you something. Armed with a pocketful of change I was ready for a little transaction and a bit of a chat. I invariably gave more than was requested and without fail the extra was returned, to be returned again.
I learned to give the kids multiple coins and watch them count them out and add them together out loud. One careful lad did it twice, counting out the coins in a different order - to be sure to be sure.
The kids don't talk much, but the adults do. One man, in clean but very worn jeans and check shirt and a haunted look in his eyes walked away from me when I couldn't follow what he was saying. I asked him to return, telling him I was learning his language and if he talked more slowly I was sure I'd understand more. He did and I did. A wife, two kids and no work since Covid he was either an excellent actor or genuinely in need. He'd a box of cheap sweets and I bought some, giving him far more than necessary.
Another day he approached me, seemed to recognise me and went to slip away. Again I asked him back, a little chat and overpaid. I haven't seen him since, I just hope I haven't offended him. People rarely beg here - they'd rather sell something cheap or provide some service or entertainment.

*This is my view when I commandeer a stone chess table to study. That's a dry (Covid induced) fountain. To my left is the fenced in doggy area - I can't sit too close to that or I'll be fluent in dog speak and have zero Español*​





Not everything went well. I took to doing an intensive (for me!) ride on the bike just up and down the main road so there are fewer distractions. (Previously I've headed off on long rides planning to cover maybe 50km and after 3 hours I've covered 5km!) I managed to develop a saddle sore! Dumbass! A sore little bugger too!

However, most things worked, best of all, I took a day for me, fecked the budget and went all in. More on that later.

*That there on the left is a footpath! Narrow, and made narrower by the trees it is also an obstacle course as the roots rule the paths here! A delight on a bright sunny day, a nightmare in the dark, in rain, or even worse - both!*​





The final part, of course, is this city and its people. In the pouring rain no-one is out without a car so human contact is non existent.
(Here's a strange observation; Time and again while out and about and rushing for cover because the dam in the sky is creaking and ready to burst I'll notice I'm the only one rushing. People still strolling around, sitting on grass having a picnic, playing with their dog while soluble me is barrelling past!)

But once people are out and about the charm of this place is there to be seen - so long as I can focus on it. When I focus what do I see?

*Spot the dog!*​





*This tree looks like nothing special. But you should hear it! On a busy street near the centre, made chaotic with roadworks it appears to be teeming with birds - birds desperate to make noise. It's bizarre! There are lots of trees around, but it's just this one they hang out in!*​





*I have no idea if this tree was intentionally manipulated in this way, but it, and the many, many trees like it create a sense, a feeling of freedom that is quite uplifting - when you don't nearly decapitate yourself on one!*




*Or this one! *





*If you're looking at this and inwardly giving out to me for not taking a level picture please know that the church is definitely tilted! Stepping out after a little exploration I suddenly felt dizzy and lightheaded - that was the slope!*​





*I've given up trying to rank trees here…. But this one is special.*​





I see a couple, a large man and a petite lady doing the tango along one side of the park. A little speaker is pumping out a latin beat and, since I have aspirations in that direction, I stop to observe. It's possible she's a teacher (there's no way he's a teacher!) but as I watch them together, her petite frame almost lost in his massive one, I come to the conclusion that no money can cover the risk she's taking - this is love! Pure, deep and unconditional! Extremely unconditional! Her foot stomped feet proof of that!

I see a guy on his bike stopping at the traffic lights (remarkable in itself!) reaching for his water bottle as his boxer bounds up to him. A well rehearsed routine sees the boxer arching to swallow the water his master squirts in his mouth. A quick drink himself and master and dog are ready to break the lights!

In the centre of the old town of Coyocán a girl walking her Shepherd notices that the little guy selling sweets shrinks from her dog. Leaving the dog sitting obediently, she goes over to the little guy, hunkers down and has a little chat. On cue, the shepherd approaches and she slowly takes the little boy's hand in her own and places it on the dog's head. Moving slowly, they rub the compliant dog's head as one until she slowly removes her hand leaving his stroking the dog. How often do we get to see new friendships start?

México's great!

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2020)

The Date.....Part 1

So….I had a date the other day! I first saw this lady a few months ago but with Covid there really wasn't much chance of meeting. Nothing, however, was going to put me off giving it a shot whenever I had a chance!

I've never done Internet dating before, but I do enjoy a first date! There's the anticipation, the nervous excitement building up. The whole what will I wear dilemma, especially when she's made it very clear that she's very fussy!* I headed off one day on the bike to scope out the area, check for a good eating place. It's all about the prep!

Then the message comes through that the time is right!

I was up bright and early, showered, shaved and like a gentleman was ten minutes early. I actually dropped into a church first, since I had a bit of time!

In these times of Google and Facebook it's easy to do a bit of snooping, to see what's behind the public facade. I hadn't done any of that. I had a face, an idea what she was about….. the rest would be discovered in due course.

*My Date: El Palacio de Bellas Artes*​





No, this is nothing like the best that she looks, but this is how she looked that day.

I don't know what it is about this building but she has captivated me since I first saw her on my first full day in this great city. There are lots of fine looking buildings here, but this one is something special. Except for these days! She's now surrounded by a high, blue steel fence as a defence against protestestors who up until a few days before were camped out in the street in front of her. Access is through one teeny tiny, heavily guarded door in the blue wall.

Social distancing was in force with stickers on the ground. Myself and a few others played a multi-lingual form of hopscotch as people were slowly admitted.

When I was ushered in through the door there was definitely a WOW moment. I just stopped, stared and tried to breathe which only annoyed the guard. Apparently, stopping in the doorway is not a clever thing to do.





I shuffled in, out of his range and paused again. I've never been in a building so elegant, so impressive, so large that, by rights, I should feel tiny, insignificant and yet made me feel anything but! I was in the finest building of México City! Another reality meets concept moment!






The interior of this beauty https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Interior_del_Palacio_de_Bellas_Artes_05.jpg

I was greeted by a hostess, directed to the ticket booth, they had no change, I really didn't care. All around me was gleaming, reddish marble, sometimes black. Above, God knows how many stories, a dome, golden on the outside, gleaming inside, like something from a science fiction movie, drawing me upwards.






A lot of the architecture in these parts make very good use of the sun. Churches have glass domes and stained glass windows that can cast light in a way that only a genius could have understood what they were doing. That, or they were just very lucky!

It's difficult to overstate the effect of sunlight illuminating an altar in an otherwise dark church.

Such was the effect here. The magical golden dome, so striking outside, was taking the outside light and coating the interior with a golden coat.

Looking up! https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Interior_del_Palacio_de_Bellas_Artes_01.jpg

Can't have too much of a good thing!
https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wik...ntro_-_Mexico_City_-_Mexico_(46153767531).jpg

If marble can seem like a cold and heartless material, here it was warm, elegant and gave all the impression of being alive.

I tried to follow the most direct route to the stairs I had been pointed towards, but the view changed with every step. Acutely conscious of the fact that my lack of progress was being anxiously monitored I headed for the stairs, a ticket check, then up again where I was directed into an exhibition.

It was by Modigliani and his contemporaries in Paris up to his death in 1920.

This was a surprise to me having done zero research and just wanting to get familiar with the building. Besides, there was only one thing I really wanted to see.

I started off at a brisk pace but was quickly pulled back into a more sedate pace. I'm far from an art critic and I suppose my tastes tend to "normal". I like art that speaks to me, not so much art that needs to be translated. And Mr. Modigliani wasn't speaking to me. His work tended to be portraits, normally elongated, dour looking faces. Frankly, they left me cold. However, there were some interesting presentations on Paris of the time, a cocktail shaker of various international ingredients that occasionally threw out some interesting intoxicants. Some of the other artists had some very interesting work.
*One of the pictures from the Exhibition. I loved the colour and the mystery of the "Spanish Lady"*​





Information was available throughout the exhibition in Spanish, English and dialect, but what particularly impressed me was beside each information board there was a small video screen with a man doing sign language.

They also had occasional films from the period from Paris which really helped to set the environment the artists were living and working in. Paris of the time was a magnet for all kinds of misfits!

Stained Glass https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Palacio_de_las_Bellas_Artes_Vitral_del_Techo.jpg

For some reason, the works by some of the Latin American artists were more appealing to me. They tended more towards landscapes and urban scenes with interesting colours.

I really wanted to see the murals that are on permanent display. I've heard about these, read a (very) little about them and thought that they'd be big paintings. Ha! Dumbass!!






First of all, you have to remember where they are. A frame can greatly enhance (or ruin) an otherwise good painting. These murals have this building as a frame! That certainly lends a certain gravitas. But the murals? WOW!

First of all, the scale is immense. The content is immense and powerful. I was half expecting some of the characters to climb down from the wall and go on the rampage! If you might think that the location might reduce the impact, might dilute the effect you'd be very much mistaken!

To be quite honest, one mural could keep someone occupied for hours. Despite the size, there is a massive attention to detail and looking over a section a second, third or fourth time will throw up something missed before. Or maybe I'm just not artistically minded enough to process the whole work in one go!






Overwhelming was the cumulative effect. I felt like a glass trapped under a running tap, full, overflowing and unable to move.

There are some benches for the more artistically challenged amongst us to sit and absorb these giant, loud paintings, but in these Covid times they have big Xs on them to deny us that chance.

It may seem strange to use the word loud, but some of these were bellowing their message. It's quite disorientating to be in an almost still museum, the marble floors that broadcast each step and these murals booming their messages. An advantage of Covid.

*I love the fact that the mural consumes the wall, edges and all.*​





I only felt a little guilty leaving that floor having not fully appreciated what was there. It was too much, at least for me.

Covid may mean that I can't sit down and work through what's in front of me, but it also means that I've the time to return.

This was the penultimate floor so I wandered up to the top floor - the Museum of Architecture. It had been given over to an exhibition for some architectural awards. The restoration projects were interesting, but some of the "new" projects were horrendous! I'm no fan of modern architecture with its straight lines and lack of colour. I was particularly interested in the hospitality section and let's just say I'd prefer my tent!

*The future of Hospitality in México? Oh please, Lord, Noooooooooo!*​






Then it was off to look for the highlight of my day! There's a wonderful, old church on the edge of Coyoacán, a suburb close to me. Honestly, it's a toss up which is my favourite - El Palacio de Bellas Artes or the Capilla de San Antonio de Padua. Two more different buildings could not be imagined. There's an old painting of this church, painted long, long before the city grew around it. There's just the church, a wonderful old bridge and open land. I've been aching to see the original! Google tells me it's on display here!

Feck Google!

I spoke to three different people asking about it, working my way up the hierarchy. The good news is that my Spanish extends to discussing a bit of art! The bad news is that I was sold a pup and the painting ain't here!

*The scale was so immense and light was reflecting everywhere with the result that my phone had trouble focussing!*​





I tried to be mad. I tried to be angry. I tried to be disappointed, but no negative emotions would bubble up in the main hall of such a beautiful building. If I thought the outside was captivating, the inside is beyond words. Scrap the art, I would have been just as happy to walk up and down the hall!

I'll be back! 

*Due to Covid the cloakrooms are closed and rules are posted as to what may not be brought in. Umbrellas, backpacks etc. are not allowed. The problem with that is the unpredictable weather!


More pictures here: https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Palacio_de_Bellas_Artes

There are different sections so grab a comforting beverage of choice, sit back and dream a little.

Chat away! 
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Nov 2020)

A trip to the Blue House

Frida Kahlo is something of an icon in Latin America and very well known worldwide. Not being particularly artistically minded I didn't know much about her. I did do a little research though, back in Mazatlán. I'd been asking people, Mexican mainly, that if they had to leave the country what places would they want to visit? One of the answers I received was "The Blue House", Frida Kahlo's home.





Since I appear to be lucky, the museum is not too far away from me and is located on the edge of Coyocán, that most magical, wonderful, calming, balming and downright crazy suburb of this great city. This means that I wander past or close to the Blue House a couple of times a week, at least. 

At the risk of committing blasphemy I have to say that apart from the colour, there is nothing particularly amazing about the exterior of the Blue House.

It's no wonder of architecture, it's not even the nicest house on the block! Other houses are just as bright, albeit in different colours.

For the first several months the museum was closed, a Covid casualty. However, back in September some of the museums reopened and the Blue House was one of them!

Covid made it a bit trickier. Tickets had to be purchased in advance, online and for a set time period. It will sound strange but making an actual appointment at a set time was a challenge in itself! After months of not having had a schedule this seemed strange, awkward and strangely authoritarian. (When I needed to extend my visitor permit it was pretty simple - get up, wash, have coffee and cycle downtown). 

Add in the fact that Mexican time is very different to Rest of the World time - it's flexible, stretchy and really quite insubstantial!

Even the simple thing of working out how long it would take me to walk there was a challenge. Taking the direct route would take 45 minutes - if I wasn't donning my Mexican head.

My Mexican head is that frame of mind that tells me the direct route is the wrong route, that a brisk walk is a brisk too far and that every route will throw up something new to admire no matter how many times I've walked that way before.

First World problems, eh?

Appointment made, ticket on my phone I set off allowing myself two hours for a 45 minute walk! I arrived 5 minutes early

I joined the distanced queue, showed my ticket, paid extra to take photos, got my temperature check, my gel and an overall body spritz.

This is México in a nutshell - I had to buy my ticket online to reduce Covid risks, but still had to pay (cash only) to take photos. It makes no sense - but interacting with the people - the lady checking the ticket, the two ladies behind the photo paying booth, all smiling, all welcoming might make no sense but was lovely to experience.

(Also of interest, locals pay less than half what I as a foreigner have to pay for entrance! So far, this has only happened here).

So, I step into a little bit of heaven. 

This part of town, one of the first areas developed by the Spanish, has for decades been the hangout of the privileged and artistic crowds (but not exclusively). This means lots of big houses, big gates in high walls and for anyone with the slightest bit of curiousity an urge to see behind the wall. 

I've commented many, many times on these pages how quickly I can slip from one world to another in this city. This is another of those times. 





Trees, greenery, a pyramid, fountains. If ever a place was designed to calm frayed nerves, to block out the outside world and at the same time to create a space where serious work could be inspired, then done, it would look something like this. 

There's a Covid path to follow so I follow it and into the house.

The exhibition starts with art that Frida, herself collected. 

There's an old tradition of travelling artists being commissioned to paint small scenes, religious in tone, of events that the patron wants to give thanks for, normally with a text description, a prayer, or words of gratitude. 
*This one is in gratitude for saving her husband's life *​





This is not high art. It's commissioned by relatively poor folks and painted on whatever scrap materials are available. A lot of these are tin - other materials haven't survived.

It is simply wonderful! 

Right in front of me a social history from all over this great, huge country. The things people feared, the things they were grateful for. The things that changed their lives.

Given the age, the handwritten script, the foreign language I struggled to understand them all, hell I struggled to understand one! There was a simplicity and a faith radiating from these that I found very moving. 

Unfortunately, given the relatively small size of the room, the strict route and the build up behind me I had to reluctantly move on.

The next part of the exhibition contained some of Frida's art.

Frida Kahlo grew up in this house and lived here as an adult with her sometimes husband, Diego Rivera, himself one of México's greatest artistic sons.

Struck with polio as a child, seriously injured in a trolley bus crash as a young woman she suffered unimaginable pain during her life. Many surgeries were attempted with mixed results. 

If it's possible to feel pain from art, then some of Frida's work is proof. Some of it is very hard to look at. Frankly, I have trouble processing it. Not that I can't, just that it's painful to do.





Some of the art clearly represents her difficulty in carrying a baby to term. An arts degree is not needed to figure that out. It can be very difficult to look at - and that's me, a childless (at least I think so!) man.

I can see why women everywhere seem to admire this lady.

Thankfully, there is more "conventional" art that demonstrates her ability to represent the real world with a skill as great as her ability to represent the psychological world.





Her father was a photographer and photography was an art she understood. Another room has a collection of photos from her father, from magazines and some self portraits.





The first room of the house that we get to see (not enter) is the kitchen. If you're like me and think the kitchen is the beating heart of a home, well you'll love this kitchen! If you think a kitchen is a purely functional place then this kitchen is from the twilight zone!

I know why they won't let us in - feckin' eejits like me would never leave! 






Then we move on to the studio and having never visited an artist's studio before I found myself captivated. With the exception of the ropes keeping us away and the complete absence of any kind of mess or untidiness it would be easy to believe that the artists had just popped out for a minute!

Yes, artists. Diego worked here beside Frida - at times. Their relationship was tempestuous at times so he also had his own studio elsewhere.






Not being an artistic person I was intrigued to find myself drawn to folders in a glass covered set of shelves with labels such as "Receipts and invoices", "Diego's friends - personal", "Various Interesting (things) and Curiosities" - how great would it be to delve into that??? - and the intriguing "Americans arise and defend your last remaining Millionaires". 

*A cabinet of folders and reference books*​





Frida's very simple desk is in front of a window, but another window has a view over the garden.

Frida did many self portraits and mirrors were an important tool in her art. A beautiful, old mirror hangs on a wall and captivated me. I have no idea why!





In order to include as many photos as possible, I've split the post. Please read on......


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Nov 2020)

A Trip to the Blue House Ctd......

If the kitchen was the heartbeat of the house, the next room was the soul.

In what's not much more than a passageway from studio to bedroom we pass Frida's day bedroom.

Due to her physical struggles she was often confined to bed. Her painting started in this bed, asking her mother for a mirror so that she could paint a self portrait while lying in the bed. I'd images of a large, full length mirror, elaborate, ornate and inspiring in itself. It's not.

It's surprisingly small and simple.






Since it's not a room there is no door and the open side looks out on the garden. I'm sure there were times when that was a balm for her, an inspiration, but I'm pretty sure there must have been times when it tore the heart from her to be bedridden so near, yet so far from nature and beauty.





For such a small room it contained so much, a lot of it intangible. It drained me. You could fill the space with books about the lady but I don't think they could convey the meaning, the emotion in that little space.






The next room was Frida's night bedroom. It could have had a dancing Marissa Tomei, a live performance from the E Street Band, a mad scientist announcing a cure for Covid amongst bubbling test tubes and I couldn't have raised the slightest bit of interest. I was spent.





Unfortunately, the other rooms (Diego's bedroom for one) are closed (clearly stated on the website) so I shuffled out to the garden.

And the recovery started. The peace and calm was healing, rejuvenating me slowly, but steadily. There are pictures scattered around the garden with quotes from Frida or Diego that only hearts of stone can't be affected by. 





After a little walk, a little contemplation, a little reorganisation of perspective, I was ready for the last part of the exhibition in a separate building - Frida's wardrobe.

In a room upstairs in the house, decades after they died, someone opened a door in a room upstairs and found most of the content of this part of the exhibition. México is a strange, wonderful place!

What I thought would be a hop, skip and a jump through ladies' fashion turned into something altogether different. 

It started with a display of some of the clothing and tools that Frida used to try and get some use and comfort from her body. Crutches, corsets and a disturbingly bloody hospital gown.






Then some personal art, disturbing certainly, but enlightening. A sketch, drawn after the amputation of her leg, gives us a glimpse of the mental struggles and her way of dealing with it - awarding herself wings.





This is quite a moving display, intensely personal. There's an awful lot to take away from here and I'm not sure I got it all. For a relatively small museum and a Covid inspired tempo it really packs a punch. The problem is that we can become a bit punch drunk.

There are more photos, mainly from her youth and one of her mother as a child in her indigenous clothing.

There are a selection of dresses, traditional in style, that were favoured by Frida as the long skirts covered her legs, her uneven gait and allowed her to present herself as "normal".





There's a small display of "high fashion" inspired by Frida's style which did nothing for me.

Finally, there's a display case of individual items of her clothing. I was scanning along, not particularly interested in fashion until I saw this:






The boot has a false heel to allow her to stand evenly and walk more normally. Totally practical. But how beautiful! How feckin' defiant! 

Who'd have thought a boot could say so much?

I was going to end this account of the visit with that boot, but México is a land full of surprises.

One night, in the run up to El Día de Muertos, out for a walk as I'm wont to do, I walked past the Blue House and saw this around the door.





I was rooted to the ground and felt a a swirling surge of emotion flowing through me.

Frida died in 1954, Diego in 1957 but they live on, their love that in life was so turbulent and intense now seemingly calmer. 

I can detect no sadness in this, only joy.

That's how a visit to the Blue House should finish.

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Nov 2020)

El Día de Muertos

_A visitor should always be welcomed with open arms. Even the dead ones._

I've read this and variations of it all over the place. My experience since crossing the border backs up the first part of that sentence. My experiences of the past few weeks is backing up the latter.

Without a doubt, this has been the highlight of my trip and at times, I've wondered if the Gods of Touring have conspired in some way to have me here at this time.

Now, here comes the tough part - I have no idea how to put this experience into words and I have precious few photographs because some things just shouldn't be photographed.






First, a little background.....

El Día de Muertos* is a UNESCO recognised tradition that is believed to have evolved from the merging of local (pre-Columbus) celebrations at harvest time and Catholic traditions of November being the month of the dead.






Halloween, as we now know it, is believed to have grown from Irish immigrants to the US bringing their own marriage of pagan & Catholic ritual. That has strayed so far from its roots at this stage it is like a different festival. For example, the modern Pumpkin carvings are said to be descended from the tradition of carving turnips and placing a candle in them to ward off the evil spirits wandering the land.

*_Technically, there are two Days of the Dead, the first mainly for children, the second for adults. _

The theory is simple. On one day the dead can return to this world. This is something joyful and to be celebrated. There are things we can do to make the journey easier for them, enticements we can use for motivation. And then there is a party!

A fundamental part of this, it appears, is that just because your heart may have stopped and you have been buried in the ground, you're not actually dead until you've been forgotten or not spoken of.

What a beautiful idea.






To go forward in this tale I have to go backwards a bit…..

The Graveyards (Panteones) here are different.

Passing by them on my journey I was aware of them but felt reluctant to enter. I stick out like the proverbial ill thumb and had no language to explain myself if necessary. I think Guadalajara was the first one I entered. 

https://images.app.goo.gl/K7rJRFffGEwok6797

Chaos! 
Pure, unbridled chaos!

Here in the bigger city, it's no different. But such a beauty in chaos I don't think I've ever seen.

And such stories! There to be read or deduced. 

They like crypts here, usually one for a family. Some can be as big as a small house, others as small as a large coffin. Some are modernish in design, others are gothic creations. Some are tended to regularly, others are literally falling apart. Most have some kind of display function and contain pictures, religious symbols, perhaps personal effects.

I have no pictures, I just don't feel comfortable taking them. I have looked for a place that sells them to take some photos but can't find one close by.

Then there are smaller monuments, not a crypt, but something akin to what we would recognise as a headstone - except it is generally the size of the grave. Again, a variety of styles, ages and degrees of maintenance.

One I've seen has all but disappeared under the ground, just a corner of a kerb reaching out of the ground, for all the world like the stern of a sinking ship, raised up before it takes its final plunge to the seabed.

Finally, there are the simple crosses, perhaps concrete, more usually of wood or metal. Sometimes just a stump is all that remains.

So, try to imagine all these designs, all beside each other, not a one bearing any relationship to its neighbour. This one is straight, its neighbour at an angle. That one is new, bright and sits proudly, its neighbour is ancient, broken and sinking into the ground. This one is an elaborate monument of marble and glass, that one is a rusted iron cross.

https://images.app.goo.gl/U3sfRvouWzTr4C326

Then there are the paths!
They start out wide and straight but ultimately disappear! A grave here, a grave there and it has narrowed. Another grave here and it has to turn. Finally, a grave stretches across and the path is gone! 

It's quite clear that no planning rules are followed here - if anyone has ever contemplated such a thing!

Oh! There are trees! Normally quite a few! They've wrecked a few monuments, their roots go everywhere. Pretty much anywhere I go in this city I have to take trees into account - a graveyard is no different!

However, there is something to the chaos. It creates the image of a place alive, always changing and really very human in its disorganisation. It's very, very different to a cemetery from my experience, with straight lines and similar sized headstones. Sterile, almost. Here, squirrels play amongst the headstones! 

I'm enthralled.

They are not sad places in themselves. It's not unusual to see kids running around between the tombs! 

*Buying colourful decorations is not a problem in this town!*
_*




*_​The graves not neglected are at the very least clean and neat, but more often are decorated with bright flowers (fake is fine) and other bright ornaments. You know those plastic, hand held windmills we give to kids? They're very common! The brighter, the better! Fake sunflowers, animals such as butterflies or bees, decorations like we'd use at Christmas are common too! I've seen one grave with silly frog faced plant holders, or another where there is a display case with string running end to end and cute, (toy) monkeys in various poses.

There are some wonderfully personal touches. One monument has a marble guitar with song lyrics that I'd never associate with a religious place and another has the shape of a guitar carved out of the marble. 

There's a charm, difficult to express to seeing a grave with the usual religious accoutrements, a statue perhaps, a cross, a religious inscription and above them, or beside them or occasionally covering them, a windmill, or a sunflower. What could so easily be seen as tacky, as disrespectful, is actually a very personal symbol of love, of loss and of celebration.

In one cemetery there is one grave, special above all.

It's for a girl who died in 2015 at the age of 26.
There is headstone at the top of the grave with a glass door in the shape of a heart. This contains a statue of the Virgin Mary.
The grave itself has a mound of earth running its length and a simple cross made from white stones and white shells in its centre, a vivid contrast to the brown soil. Along the sides are potted plants, half in the soil, half out, the corners are guarded by swan shaped flower plots.
Above the grave, a crude construction stands at head height made of four iron poles supporting a sheet of perspex. From this hangs the most amazing and vivid array of sunflowers, bees, butterflies and incredible prints of flowers that could only have been designed by a child. And windchimes. I despise windchimes with a passion but here …… they just belong. 
Around the perimeter of the grave is a flat, uneven border of concrete painted the most incredible and calming blue.
You'd think that such a bright, lively and moving (literally!) display would stand out in a graveyard…..but it doesn't. I had to pass close by before I saw it. Then I found it very, very hard to leave. 
Aside from the inscription on the headstone there is a brass plaque, a personal statement and a vow from someone left behind. It is incredibly sad, yet uplifting at the same time.
I found this wonderful celebration of a life back in August so I assume the display is permanent. I went back to visit in the week of the Día de Muertos and noticed only a few additions, a line of fresh marigolds being one. Unfortunately, another of them was a new resident. From what I could figure out from handwriting on a simple wooden cross the girl will be travelling back with her mother this year.

It's jarring and it can take quite a while to process some scenes. A child's grave for instance. An elegant headstone, carved angels flanking it on each side, colourful windmills and toys placed in front of them. The sacred and the playful.

With this in mind it's perhaps easier to tackle the Day of the Dead.






Altars are made to draw the dead home and to help them celebrate.

The dead are as they come from the grave - skeletons, there's no sentimentality here! But they're not scary! They're here to party! 

Most of these altars are in people's homes. Some are in shops or restaurants and one I saw was for a dog!

In one church I visited there was an altar created with the pictures and names of recently departed priests and missionaries. On the table was a selection of fruit and vegetables, some water and, strangely, I thought, slices of tomato. Also, candles were burning. I particularly liked the fact that there were simple paper decorations of Catarina and pumpkins too - a welcoming flexibility in the house of God.

Directly beside it on the wall was space for people to add names on post-its. Two blocks of post-its and a couple of markers were supplied. Lots of names had been added, some with full names, but most just were first names. I liked the familiarity and lack of formality. 

There are skeletal figures everywhere - on people's balconies, occupying tables in socially distanced restaurants, painted or stuck on to windows and doors. 






The male skeletons may be dressed in a suit, a tuxuedo or maybe as a Cowboy, but the lady skeletons? They wear the most bright, colourful and downright fabulous fashions imaginable! 





Again, I have to emphasise how these are symbols of joy, of celebration. The skulls are smiling, the clothes celebratory. There is absolutely nothing to fear here!

Marigolds, orange Marigolds are the flower of the season - they are everywhere, adorning every tended grave.

I saw one grave where a path had been outlined with Marigold petals to lead the inhabitant from their grave to the main path (it's chaos in these cemeteries!😁). It took me a second to process what I was seeing and then to understand its significance. Talk about a kick in the feels!

Another typical decoration consists of intricate designs cut out of brightly coloured sheets of paper. I'm sure nowadays these are mass produced by machines but in times past were, I'm sure, a theraputic labour of love to create. 

Due to Covid the cemetries were closed for the weekend and Monday. I've no idea if this was flagged in advance but my first inkling was on Friday when I came across a sign warning of closure in a cemetry far away from me.





When I rolled up to my more local one on Sunday, it too was closed and had a police guard! (There had been no advance warning during the week when I previously visited.)

The cemeteries I visited in the week preceeding the festival seemed busier than normal with people tending to the graves. Usually it was a family affair and I didn't sense any sadness. 
I saw cans or bottles of beer, and cigarettes on some of the freshly decorated graves waiting to get the party started.

For the festival itself, usually there are parades and people dress up. The "Catarina" (featured previously) is a popular character (albeit relatively new) and there is normally at least one parade. However, in these Covid times all events have been cancelled, roads have been closed and there is a heavy Police presence. 






The centre of Coyocán (normally a centre of festivities) was blocked off, admittance tightly (if irregularly) controlled. One entrance involved getting swept by a detector of some kind (the others didn't!). 

I saw some people with make-up on - not terribly significant because half the facemasks in use here are skeletal - some in traditional Catrina costume and some more dressed for Halloween - a surprisingly sexy Jack(ie?) Sparrow, a remarkably unsexy Wonderwoman (that took some work!) and a very naughty (overage) schoolgirl with thigh high boots!

To go off on a slight tangent, the influence of Halloween is present. Some people decorate their houses as might be seen in the US. Others mix and match. I know from my time in NL that the Dutch Sinterklas is under threat from Santa Claus - particularly tricky because they operate on dates almost 3 weeks apart! 






In reality, it was just people either walking around or people in restaurants and bars eating and drinking. I'd imagine in non-Covid times there'd be bands and dancing and general merriment. 

I tried my best but I just wasn't feeling it.

I visited the centre of Coyocan on Saturday night, again on Sunday night and also Monday, and if I'd been looking forward to a "festival" or a "party" I'd have been bitterly disappointed.

It reminded me a lot of my Camino trip, one highlight in particular that had built up in significance in my head only to be experienced in a metaphorical and literal dark, grey cloud. I learned that day that it wasn't the destination that was significant, it was the journey to get there.

I'd walked miles and miles over the previous weeks, visiting different places, I'd visited the cemeteries, seen families dressed up taking photos, seen buildings decorated with arches of flowers, I'd made my own stab at putting an altar together but most of all I got to witness and learn about a new way to think about death, to my mind a more positive, healthy way. 

México is great! 

An example of what was not possible...
https://images.app.goo.gl/ZbJZSH2J32sFofdv8

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Nov 2020)

The Date Part Two.......

I'm sorry to report that my departure from the Palace was memorable for the wrong reasons. Since the entire grounds had been cut off from the outside world, I had a glorious chance to take the perfect photo from the front.
The guard, however, was uncooperative. Uncooperative is a euphemism for vehemently and aggressively negative. I don't think it was the same guard who I'd exasperated on the way in by being struck motionless in the door (perhaps word had spread about me!) and to be fair, it is the only negative interaction I've had with officialdom, but nevertheless I was leaving with a dark cloud floating over me which seemed so unfair to such a beautiful building.

However, this is México where dark clouds are soon chased away and I still had the rest of my date!

*This is the park beside the Palace. It's a place wonderfully full of activity yet relaxing. Now most of the fountains are active it is a place of joy as kids of all ages fill them in the afternoon heat. *​





Back on the day when I'd encountered the Mexican band playing Irish songs, a friendly local had suggested a particular café to visit. I was on my way there now - El Café de Cuba!
Except that doesn't exist! Well, there are a couple of eating places with café and Cuba in their titles, but none that would inspire such a wholehearted endorsement as I had received. Don't ask me how I know! 

I was actually on my way to Cafe de Tacuba. See! Easy mistake to make. In its favour was the fact that it was only a few minutes walk from the museum.

I love eating out! It's a real treat! I love watching the people, customers and professionals, the interactions. I love watching people who care about what they're doing, not so much the ones who don't give a damn. The food is only a part of it. The whole experience is the thing that matters.

*To get there I passed this wonderful building - The Post Office!*​





Cafe de Tacuba is clearly old - the tiles along the wall where I was sitting were immaculately clean but bore all the signs of a long and hard life - and it is old school.

Greeted at the door by an older gentleman in a suit far too heavy for the temperature and the work, I was led through the restaurant from one charming, vividly bright chamber to another to be seated at a table with a plastic tablecloth, aged portraits on the wall and a stained glass ceiling. A gruff instruction and a lady appeared beside me with a menu and a request for a drink order.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cafe_de_Tacuba_02.jpg

If I hadn't just come from a literal Palace I'd have been struck dumb, but I was starting to get into my stride!
The first thing that strikes are the colours! Bright, alive and the very definition of contrast. White tiles offset by a vital blue, orange and yellow flowers painted on the most pure, white walls, ornately framed portraits of who knows who (I've a suspicion that these are not that old, but they had the look of age); stained glass windows and ceilings and an upstairs section, Covid closed, with real plants hanging down to head height beneath gave the impression of sitting outdoors.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:El_Café_de_Tacuba.jpg

The old school vibe continued with the service. There was a strict hierarchy. There were the women kitted out in starched white uniforms who were the bosses, took the orders, checked on their guests and presented the bill. Then there were the guys, most, but not all, relatively young, kitted out in black trousers and white shirts. They were the runners - they brought the food on large trays (even for little old me!) which had to be placed beside the table on a folding dumb waiter (which they also carried and opened while balancing a huge tray on their shoulder) and then transferred to the table before removing the plastic cover over the plate. Yes a well used, battered plastic dome!
Later, they'd return to clear the table.

*Right above my table*​





The food was good - nothing exceptional - but the experience? Fantastic!

*Enchilladas, house style, quesadillas and a happy tiger!*​





I took a wander to the bathrooms and did a little exploring in the other chamber (I'm deliberately using the word chamber - a simple "room" is too bland, too generic to fairly describe these), similarly decorated but different enough to warrant more time. Conscious of Covid and social distancing I didn't get to see everything in the detail that I'd like, but like the Palace, there's always time for another visit.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Cafe_de_Tacuba_03.jpg

Sated, I set off again. This was now unplanned territory so it was time to navigate by nose. I was in the historical city centre a good 10-12 km from where I sleep and I was bikeless.

*The doors in these parts are phenomenal! Some are clearly quite new, but some? I think some have seen some very interesting things!*​





As great and wonderful as this city is, any bike I see parked has multiple, big chain locks around it and whatever pole is available. Leaving the bike unattended for long periods of time is not something I want to risk - whatever about Covid putting a dampner on my touring, not having a bike would finish it off!
While there are CityBikes that can be rented for 1-3 days the places where I (a foreigner) can sign on are limited and of the few I've tried, none have working consoles for processing a card. Perhaps another Covid victim.
So I'm reluctantly using public transport to get in and out of the centre. I had a vague idea that I might walk home but as I followed my nose (in the wrong direction for going home!) that idea slowly faded from my mind.

*Wandering around after the café I passed this. Behind me is chaos with traffic, hawkers and people heading to and fro. In front, this. *​




_*Edited to compensate for the heavy shadow._

At the risk of repeating myself, México city is a city of contrasts. Beside a Colonial building standing proud and elegant is another, naked to the elements, its roof gone, windows gone and stonework faded, cracked and crumbling.

*This shell is just one of the ruins opposite the Palace, a five minute walk from the Post Office above! A city of contrasts!*​





Beside an elegant coffee shop where the trendy and chic sit and sip their soya lattes there's a taco stand where a guy in stained clothing is cooking and dispersing his smoke amongst the café elite.
On the road there's an old, spluttering Collectivo bus, it's sparkling rims and washed tyres in sharp contrast to the hundreds of diy bodywork repairs it carries while behind it a gleaming Mustang with darkly tinted windows rumbles in its fumes.
It's not the contrast itself that is so striking and noticeable, after all, every city has these contrasts, it's the proximity of them that is so eye-catching.

*In between all the fine buildings, all the ruins there are sights like this. I'm not especially a fan of graffiti but the colours and subjects have their own beauty and transmit their own energy*​





Perhaps one of the greatest examples of this is the old Cathedral itself.





I've just realised how long this is! 
And the Cathedral is going to be a long one!

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2020)

The Date.....Part 3

La Catedral Metropolitana

_The description of the Church is from the day. The description of the service is from a different visit._

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Sagrario_de_la_Catedral_Asunción_-_panoramio.jpg

Before I get to the building itself, a little history. The Cathedral was built on the site of a native temple, some of which was discovered relatively recently and can be viewed at one side of the Cathedral, protected by glass. You can actually stand beside the old ruins, turn your head and see the new ruins!
"Ruins" may be a tad over dramatic but there is no denying that the Cathedral has seen better days. There are trees growing on the roof!

_*The actual ruins. The Spanish destroyed a city to build one in their own style.*_​





A perusal of history throws up the (unusual, in my opinion) fact that the Mexican Republic has had a fractious history with the Vatican, only establishing official relations with the Vatican in the 1980's (quickly reinforced by 5, yes Five, official visits by the Pope!). The relationship between Church and state may be officially stronger, but the Government still keeps its distance, most notably in denying money. Church buildings, no matter how historical, are the sole responsibility of the Church - and the Church doesn't have the money to look after them all. Since there are churches everywhere in this wonderful city, it is not unusual to come across absolute wrecks!

*This one is a stone's throw from the Palace of Fine Arts, blockaded with metal sheets, sinking into the ground, yet proudly defiant!*​





And on to the Cathedral….

Inside the gate there's a friendly guard who takes my temperature and sends me on my way.

Inside, a motion detector activates an English speaking voice that tells me to wear a mask and another machine dispenses gel directly on to my hand.

Stepping in to such a vast building to be ordered around by a disembodied voice and trying to figure out an automatic gel dispenser can be disorientating. It's like the massive structure has held its breath until you're standing there, ready, then it blows you away!

Or at least that was my impression.

I'm immediately aware of two things - height and light. There's a brightness here that I wasn't expecting that gives the impression of a welcome.The height is exaggerated by the light coming in from above and the pale cream colour of the domes that make up the ceiling.
Strangely, the next thing I notice is a distinct lack of prayers - people praying. In every single church I've been in in this country there is always someone praying, usually not alone.

I'm (still!) standing on the right hand side of the Cathedral and stretching in front of me is a wide, long aisle, above me a series of domes leading to one main one with mostly plain glass that seems to be hoovering up all the daylight from outside then diffusing it all over the interior. Inserted in the walls at regular intervals are little chapels, each to a saint, each individually decorated, normally in gold. Lots of gold. Unfortunately, all are gated, closed off and in relative darkness.

Then my eyes roll to the left.

A rear altar with a gold backdrop and a black Jesus on a crucifix set between two rows of massive columns, each pair supporting a ceiling arch.
The stonework is a clean grey adding to the brightness and the floor is a cream marble squared off with a reddish brown
Since only one of three doors are open, the bright light falls on the right side of the altar, fading as the eye runs left, leaving the other side shrouded in relative darkness.
Set between two columns it has an intricate pulpit on either pillar, supported by intricate gold, presumably for important addresses.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Altar_del_perdón_2.jpg

I shuffle over to properly appreciate this view and take a socially distanced seat on a pew.
This is where locals sit, kneel and pray. This is where the prayers are!

Now I can see the ceiling is actually a dirty cream and shows signs of neglect, or age if you prefer. Water stains, cracks and even exposed stone where some has fallen away

*From the walk home, a Church as an island in an ocean of traffic. *​





Going deeper into the building, directly behind the first altar is "el coro" a room within the Cathedral lined with intricate and detailed seats of wood. Above this room on either side are two organs.
Coro
https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:00206_el_iluminado.jpg

Organ
https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Metropolitan_Cathedral_of_Mexico_City_2015_75.jpg

Continuing on, the Cathedral becomes much brighter due to the main dome. Simple lead framed windows high in either side add to the lighting effect.
There are no pictures in these windows, hardly any colour in most, just a series of 4 sided shapes giving the impression of having been thrown together from odds and ends.
There's a simplicity to them, an amatuerness that is very pleasing

For a building to honour a being "up there" that is looking down on us, it's design is perfect.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mexico_City_(2018)_-_566.jpg

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Interior_de_la_Catedral_Metropolitana_2.jpg

To the right is the Sacristy, a separate room.
This is opulence and art on an unbelievable scale. It's overwhelming. There's a painting on the ceiling that was so detailed, so beautiful that I can't recall a single detail - only that I wanted to lie on the floor and never leave.

It was a strange experience for me. Normally I have a bit of an aversion to excessive displays of wealth in a church but there was a beauty to this room that was genuinely disarming.

There was furniture, portraits on the walls, an amazing door, a rich, deep carpet. I only had eyes for the ceiling.

Honestly, I stepped outside into the main Cathedral and had a real difficulty in recalling what I had just seen.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Filenterior_de_la_sacristía_mayor_de_la_Catedral_Metropolitana_de_México.JPG *

*_ If you've opened the link you'll see that it's unlikely there was a painting on the ceiling! I took that from my notes recorded within half an hour of leaving the building. It's entirely possible that I have it totally backwards. I cannot overstate how powerfully disorientating that room was!_

Back outside, there is another altar at this point - of marble. Elegant and simple at first glance, it reveals its detail and beauty slowly.
Running from this altar back to "el coro" is the most wonderfully elegant aisle of marble so smooth, so shiny. My mind doesn't often turn to marriage but if ever there was an aisle to make a bride feel special, unique and a great beauty of the world it would be this one.

Behind this marble altar is a creation that almost defies description such is the detail. Set back as it is, it receives little light and deep as it is, there's a spookiness to the darkness
There are portraits, two large ones in the centre, portraits and scenes on each side, and a very modestly sized one of God, presumably, looking down from above, statues, at least two heads, intricate carvings, a golden altar, a very modestly sized Christ on a cross, browner than we'd see in Europe.
This was damaged by a fire in the 1940's and restored so I've no idea what's original and what's not.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Mexico_City_(2018)_-_185.jpg

There are smaller versions to each side. The one on the left has 10 portraits - so dark they're like 10 black sheets, on the right, fewer portraits but it seems to have survived better, brighter and a strange doll-like figure in a glass & gold case. (There are a lot of dolls in churches here. They can be quite spooky!)

I spent a long time looking at these, trying to take in all the detail. It's an immense undertaking and perhaps I needed someone to explain the significance of the different components, but the overall effect on me was cold. I formed the idea that this was less a celebration of a heavenly benevolence than a display of wealth and authority.

Thankfully, walking away from there I burst out laughing (in a Cathedral no less!) as I was inspecting the most elaborately carved confession boxes and started to wonder what sins I could possibly commit to be worthy of such artful confessionals!

There is a Covid inspired one way system. Not wanting to go against the flow I found myself outside and promptly walked around and back inside!

*A completely different scale!*​





After my second round I thought I'd seen it all.

Ha! Dumbass!

There's what's known as a Tabernacle right next door. It's facade is unbelievably detailed and I felt drained going in, thinking I'll have a quick peek and be on my way. I was cultured out. I couldn't take in the level of detail on that facade - the sun would have burned me to a crisp first!

*The facade of The Tabernacle. You could stand there all day and not see it all. Since it's on a corner it has two facades!*​





But how wrong was I!

It took me a while to notice the similarities - the same silver/grey arches, the same domes because the atmosphere was so, so different!

There's a happy story told of Roald Dahl writing a lovely letter to a young fan who had sent him a "dream in a bottle". That story came to mind in this place because if I had a bottle I'm sure I could have opened it, spun around and filled it with pure, unfiltered joy.
This place was that special.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Metropolitan_Cathedral_of_Mexico_City_2015_22.jpg

It was about a third the size of its big brother, but it was so much brighter! The cream on the walls and ceiling seemed to have a touch of yellow that was so much warmer.
The altar? So much simpler than next door. The most vivid item was a golden sun, high behind the altar. You know the way a child draws the sun? A yellow circle with lines of varying length radiating out? This! In gold! Light from the windows in the dome working its magic.
A smaller one behind the actual tabernacle on the altar. A golden, joyful energy flowing out of it.

Here, it's not ostentatious, it's joyful, not intimidating but welcoming, not formal but friendly. By some standards it's very ostentatious, by the example of next door it could be a different religion!
Same imagery, same architecture, but the feeling is completely different.
This is the house of a joyful God, not an authoritarian. A God who encourages and rewards resides here.

The aisle here was shorter and simpler. Adding flowers along its length on tall stands gave the one next door a real good run for its money!

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Metropolitan_Cathedral_of_Mexico_City_2015_17.jpg

I took a seat and just felt. I had thought I was empty, jaded and only entered because I thought I better finish off the job. Now I was full of energy and wanted to explore more! I was in such a bemused state that it took me quite a while to notice that the two main supporting pillars had developed a nasty lean!

In the end I only left because I really needed to pee!

*The other facade of the Tabernacle*​





To finish off the Cathedral story, I returned on a Sunday. It was one of my usual follow-my-nose ramblings around until I rolled up again.
I asked the temperature check guy if there was a Mass as I didn't want to intrude and he replied, very accurately, that there wasn't. He omitted to add that the mass would start in ten minutes!

So there I am, looking at one of the organs when I notice armed Police. Then there's a bit of a hubbub and a procession is walking down towards me, turns and begins to walk up that wonderful aisle to the marble altar.

I now have a dilemma. Do I walk around behind them and swiftly head for the exit or do I stay? There are no seats unoccupied so I decide to exit. However, on the side of the altar there are some empty pews so I plonk myself down. How often do I get a chance to attend a mass said by a Cardinal?

Since I was pretty hidden I didn't have to worry too much about when to sit, stand or kneel.

Since he was a cardinal, he had three helpers in suits who took it in turns to hold an ipad in front of him. Two other priests assisted as well. And an altar girl. She was the only one in a coordinated outfit - a bright red mask to match her red altar girl outfit!

It was the sermon I was looking forward to. How often do we hear a Cardinal preach?
He had a soft, easy voice. Practised at public speaking. A voice of explanation, of reason, but alas without passion. He'd tell you why you should do something, not inspire you to do it. (We should be nice to each other - my Spanish is coming along!)

I wouldn't feel right taking communion so I didn't. When mass was over there was a round of applause which I found odd and I left without having undergone any significant change.

*Nature's Fireworks! No context, I just love Palm trees!*​





Since I was there, I couldn't resist another visit to the tabernacle next door. There couldn't be another mass!
Ha! Dumbass!
There I was sitting down, basking, when two priests came out. I wasn't the only one in the church, but that wasn't unusual. Caught again!

Just like my first visit when I could easily have believed that this was for a different religion, this mass was something altogether different!

For starters, it was a young priest. I can't remember the last time I saw a young priest! He might have tripped over his tongue a time or two, but that was enthusiasm. He talked fast so that I couldn't keep up, but there was no doubting his conviction and passion. He was lively, animated and certainly inspiring.
While the mass was going on a young couple came in with three children, just looking around. I sensed that they weren't here for the mass, but I saw a look pass between them, they rounded up the kids and taking a pew for the kids and one for themselves (social distancing) settled down in front of me. The kids behaved impeccably.

*This city is full of life and colour!*​





It was a real treat to catch unexpected Masses in both parts. It also emphasised and underlined the differences between the parts. I don't lay claim to any faith, although, growing up in Ireland and having been raised a Catholic and educated in a Christian Brother's school, religious imagery is a part of my vocabulary.

In these circumstances, I'm an observer, a respectful one I hope. I observed a Cathedral, uplifting certainly, but powerful and intimidating and attended a Mass said by a Cardinal, who, for all his rank, didn't seem to connect with the congregation. I also observed a smaller church, that was joyful, and attended a Mass that was human and inspiring.

That Cardinal has a lot to learn!

For more pictures have a look here
https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Metropolitan_Cathedral_of_Mexico_City

*Interesting churches are everywhere!*​






Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Nov 2020)

The Date Part IV

The best dates are multi-day ones and this one is no different! On another day, I set off to track down that painting that I thought had been in the Palace of Fine Arts but wasn't.

Partly due to my rather haphazard approach to research and planning, I actually walked past the National Art Museum (Museo Nacional de Arte) on my way from the Palace of Fine Arts to Cafe de Tacuba. I knew there was a big art museum, but honestly, I was museumed out and didn't fancy scratching that particular itch.

It meant another trip to the old centre and another building that hits right between the eyes and leaves you stunned. Oh, there's some art too!

Outside, it's impressive, if slightly authoritarian in aspect. I look at it, can appreciate the symmetry, be impressed at the size and the image it casts, but there's nothing that speaks to me. It's cold.

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:MUNAL.jpg

_An amusing anecdote if you look at that picture....the man on the horse is the king of Spain when México won its independence. Unlike most statutes, that one has moved all over the city! For safety reasons!  For the time I've been here he's surrounded by a blue, steel fence!_

But inside?
They're crafty here - there's a choir, an orchestra and Lorelei's Mexican sisters hidden that erupt into some kind of seductive, celebratory hymn. The interior doesn't speak to me - it sings to me!
Unlike the Palace of Fine Arts this took me by surprise. There I had been expecting something special. Here, not so much.
Again, legs rooted, head sweeping around I think I could stand there until they kicked me out and still not have seen everything - and that's just the lobby!

The temperature taking, gel dispensing guard was kind and gentle with me as he suggested I shuffle deeper inside to his colleague on the ticket desk. His colleague who surprised me with a body disinfectant spray barely registered in my consciousness and the lady on the desk was patience personified and smiled proudly when I told her that her workplace was beautiful.

There's a staircase that draws the eyes at the expense of everything else. It's painful to pull the eyes away, hurting whatever part of the body that responds to beauty.
I drifted up.





_*Edited because sunlight fecked it up!_
https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:InsideStaircaseMusArteDF.JPG

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Museo_Nacional_De_Arte-_stairway.jpg

A few steps. Stop. A whole new perspective, new details to process.
Somewhere at the top there's a painting on the ceiling but here, on the stairs, I can only see jigsaw pieces - a bit here, a bit there, a few steps and the first pieces are gone and something new is revealed. The weirdest strip tease I've ever seen!






At the top of the stairs there's a guy waiting to check my ticket. When I finally reached him I apologised because he'd put out his hand three times to take my ticket but each time I'd stopped to savour. He smiled, welcomed me and directed me onwards to the exhibition.

*This is what awaits on the ceiling atop the stairs. Worth the walk!*​




_* Edited for light_

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:MuralCeilingMUNAL.JPG

Exhibition? Oh yes! There's an exhibition! I was only here for one painting, I wasn't interested in an exhibition and once I became aware of the content it didn't slow me down.
The building did!
The doors were amazing! The cornices were amazing!
The exhibition was of repurposed fake art.
An artist had taken fake artwork and had either;
Divided the original into three segments, one untouched, one scraped (so that it had a faint, almost impressionist image) and the final had all the paint removed, that paint then reused to coat another canvas beside the original.
Or
Cut the "original fake" into pieces and placed them in a frame.
I'm sure there's merit to creating something original from a counterfeit but I found it repetitive and felt that someone had worked a little too hard.
The background information was interesting though, how fake art was created, sold and who was "faked" the most.

*An interesting image, the fist really seems to be bursting out!*​






One room had little brass nameplates, each one with the name of the artist. For every fake painting in their name there was a brass plate, each a unique design. A couple of artists stretched floor to ceiling.
I was amused to see that quite a few of the fakes had been bought and placed in Trump Tower. There's a fake joke in there somewhere!

I wasn't sad to leave the exhibition behind and move on to the next one. (In fact, the museum was hosting four separate exhibitions!)

The first room was filled with portraits of the twelve apostles - in fact, a lot of the older artworks are all religious in content - and I wandered around enjoying the process of trying to remember them all and trying to match the English and Spanish names. Something was bugging me though and it took me well into the second half of the apostles before it struck me - how the Hell did anyone know what these guys looked like?

In fact the whole first section was of religious art. It's amazing to stop for a moment and think just how much religious art is in this town. Churches, museums - it is everywhere.

Truthfully, at this stage, the building had been having more impact than the art! High doors, amazing corridors, beautiful finishing. Then it got serious.
I entered the Salon Principal.
I burst out laughing! I couldn't help it.
Probably the most elegant room I've ever entered and it's filled like it's a cheap electronics bazaar!
There were a few small displays of things I barely recall. One was a water filtration system. Another was dedicated to Women's achievements in Science. But one display had flashing coloured lights that drew the eye and zapped the mind! (I've no idea what it was for).






But what a room!
The entire ceiling an elaborate frame for a painting. Each door, the frame stretching to the ceiling, was topped with another painting.
Giant, golden candleabras standing taller than myself.
And all this with flashing disco lights! CrazyBeautiful!

https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:ReceptHallMUNAL.JPG

The next section was art from the 20th Century. With such broad scope it was no surprise that the art was very diverse. There was little that called out to me but a few pieces walloped me.






This one by Diego Rivera (or Mr Frida Kahlo if you prefer😁) had me glued to the floor. Yes! It's hazy! That's the effect, not my camera skills. Each room has a curator to make sure we don't steal or damage the art, but more importantly that we follow the Covid arrows on the floor.
I drove the poor lady demented in that room because I left, returned, left, returned, left, wandered around and returned again.
Her stern reaction faded with each breach of protocol and by my last visit she smiled in welcome.






This one caught my eye too. As tall as me, a representation of Columbus arriving in the Americas, a carving of marble with intricate detail - and they have no idea who created it!

The final section was an exhibition of landscapes, mainly by one artist. If it hasn't been clear up to now, I love the landscape of Mexico. On long straight stretches through desert I haven't been bored, I've been enchanted. It's so different to what I'm used to and if the land seems dusty, dry and dead the sky is alive with movement and sunlight playing off clouds, or the distant mountains change as I move along.
A lot of these scenes seemed so familiar to me that they actually unsettled me - Oh! To get back on the bike and get back out there!
They may have been painted a couple of hundred years ago but not much has changed. I've passed those little shacks, seen that man walking his sheep to better grazing. So familiar, so teasing.

The planners of the museum must have known of my quest because they placed the one and only painting I wanted to see so that it was (almost) the last on display.

The artist was Eugenio Landezio, born in Italy, a teacher of Art here in CDMX who died in Paris. (1810 - 1879).

Let's just take a moment and ponder that.

An Italian travels to Mexico, establishes himself as a teacher in the University and dies in Paris in the 1800's. People often remark to me what a wonderful trip I'm taking and how brave I am. I've got nothing on this guy!
Just the language issues alone! I've got a phone for translations!
What was travel like at that time? A 20 year old MTB is luxury in comparison!
Perhaps I'm politically incorrect, but "Art Professor" does not inspire images of rough, tough intrepid travellers. And this guy finished up in France!

On to the painting.
I've waxed on about the Palace of Fine Arts but I haven't really talked about the Capilla de San Padua. It's not much to look at, located beside a very busy road and on a shallow, stinky river. It's not in the best state of repair and has graffiti.
I've visited this church weekly (even though it's closed) since I happened upon it on my first few days here and I can't explain why.
It's not the prettiest. It's not the calmest. It's used. It's rough. It's just …… real.
I sit for a little while on the bridge and just watch the world go crazily by. That bridge was one of the first built in New Spain!

Having found it, I did a little research and found out about this painting. And fell in love.
Painted in 1855 it's a depiction of the church, bridge and river. What is amazing to me is the rural scene of the painting in comparison to the scene these days.

Ah, feck it. Here's the painting. And the modern view.






To me, that simple painting tells an epic tale! From an empty road with a church and a bridge, this city has grown into one of the biggest on our planet! Yet, yet with a tiny bit of effort, with a closing of the ears to block out the traffic, with a squint of the eye, with a tolerance for the graffiti I can travel back to the day an Italian artist set up his easel and saw the same view.

Magic!

*Dirty, grimy, beside a busy road, atop a stinky river, graffiti on the sides....*​






The Museum
https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Museo_Nacional_de_Arte_(Mexico)

Aside from that, google images of this beautiful building. You won't be disappointed! 

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2020)

Day Whatever, Tuesday, November 24, 2020

The Poem

I haven't posted a daily entry in months and it wasn't my intention to do so until I was back on the road. But today had one of those events that should be recorded, marked and remembered.

I read something disturbing over my morning coffee and on a figary, decided to take the day off and go for a walk. Nothing like wandering up and down these streets for calming the mind.

I had no destination in mind, just two aims - try to take new (to me) streets and follow whatever interested me. As a result, after a few hours I was close to the centre and took a break in a park. As I sat there, enjoying the sunshine a man approached me.

He stood a respectful distance away from me and handed me a child's copy book, opened on a page.
It was a maths notebook, with those little squares and some very faint handwriting. 

It was hard enough to read the handwriting without the squares, faint ink, lack of punctuation, and, oh yes! a foreign language!
I tried, but there was a lot of word play - lots of dogs and buts (perro & pero). In the end, I asked him to tell me what was on the paper. He sat down beside me but didn't really speak.
I asked a few questions. Nada. I explained I was only learning his language and needed some help. Nada.

He had amazingly bright, lively eyes, in a pale, gaunt face. His clothes were smart and clean but well worn.

I knew he was angling for money, but I couldn't for the life of me work out what his method was. A Colombian friend of mine has warned me to be careful of all the scam artists. If she could have seen me she'd have been going nuts!

There was nothing bad, evil, malevolent or even slightly off about this guy. If I could get him to talk we might pass a pleasant half an hour on the park bench.

In the end, I asked him if he wanted some money and he smiled.
I gave him enough for a meal and his face lit up in what I saw as happiness, not triumph.

Then he surprised me. He took the copybook back and started flicking through some loose sheets, pausing at some before moving on. Almost with a triumphant flourish he handed me one sheet, told me it was for me and left.

This is what it says; (my translation from Spanish!)

_I would like to escape and travel the world
To cross a thousand seas and be a vagabond
To love people and offer my best to erase the wounds that pain causes
To leave my world but not the world
To leave my life, but not life
To find a love, at last, to finally make me calm
To cradle her face and lose myself in her gaze
To feel that the world is ours and not wish for anything else._

Cradle and gaze fecked me up! There was no punctuation and the handwriting is hard to decipher. By the time I'd translated it he had melted away. 

México, if I haven't said it in a while, is feckin' great!

Some pictures from the walk.

*



*

*The caption reads: If you want a happy life tie it to a goal, not a person nor an object*​*



*

*The Spanish Park










The light in the trees can be captivating





What an amazing feckin' tree!
















*​Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


​


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2020)

Day Whatever.....

There are vanishingly few things I can claim to be good at, but picking places to eat is one of them. I remember one time in Spain, cycling past a restaurant that caught my eye and hours later when my travelling companion was becoming dangerously close to a starvation induced rage I led us back to a magnificent meal in a lovely, friendly environment. They made their own chorizo! De-feckin'-vine! 

*I'm becoming besotted with these types of views, taken from underneath the tree. Light, shade, the green of the leaves and now an almost always bright blue sky. I find it so relaxing*​





Well, I still got it!

Alex's place is nothing to catch the eye. He has something that could ungraciously be called a hole in the wall that contains a tv, a chest freezer, a little cashier area and a table with a plastic tablecloth on which resides the accoutrements of Mexican cuisine - salsas (red and green) a tomato/onion/coriander salad, potato cubes, beans, cucumber, chopped limes, tortilla chips, one or two other dishes I haven't been brave enough to try yet, repurposed margarine containers for cutlery and some salt shakers. Behind is a tiny space that holds a fridge for cold beers and soft drinks.
Out front, on the footpath is the burning heart - a metal grill on one wheel (the other is awol) that has seen better days. He has a total of three tables on the path, one shopside, two roadside. A battered canopy stretches over the path and a rough, branded tarpaulin drops from its edge to defend against traffic noise and fumes.

*This is an actual footpath! You've gotta love this place - everything has a whiff of adventure to it!*​





They say the three most important factors in a hospitality business are Location, Location and Location and Alex is located on one of the ugliest streets I've come across in this town. Take Alex's place out of it and it has nothing, absolutely nothing to redeem it - just an almost treeless, traffic clogged street. 
I've no idea what made me stop there the first time. Hunger, I suppose, because when you smell what's coming from that grill there's no getting away!

*They do like shiny buildings here!*​





My first meal was a take-away, a couple of beef-from-the-grill tacos. When I got home I knew I was on to a winner!
I don't do takeaway anymore. I'll sit, eat, savour, have a beer and enjoy the whole experience.
There's always two or three regulars, sitting down, enjoying a beer, shooting the breeze. Of course, anyone walking down the path walks right through the middle of his business and Alex seems to know them all. 
There are always tardis cars parked in front so there's a buffer between me and the rumbling, honking traffic. I call them tardis cars because the traffic may as well be miles away.
Alex used up all his English on the first day, so now we do it all in Spanish. It's really not difficult - Alex could be a deaf mute and it would take no effort to understand him. 
He's 60 if he's a day, a big man, lean...ish and strong, normally wearing jeans and a t-shirt, and a soft, serious look on his face. Soft, because he's naturally friendly, serious because he takes his work seriously. On arrival I get a big smile and then the face becomes focused as he gets his disinfectant spray and wipes down the table and all four chairs. Once done, the smile returns, a little chat, then serious face returns as he gets to work. 

*Can you blame me for wandering around, planless, when I come across this…..*​





In a former life I had the blessing and curse to work and play with some great chefs in some fantastic locations. I've surfed the service wave with them, drank the post service lull away, laughed with them, fought with them, dodged sauces, spoons, even the occasional knives and downed tools and refused to work with them. Alex is nothing like those guys and girls except in one way - everything he does he does well and with a deceptive attention to detail.
If you're vegetarian, there's nothing for you here. He does tacos and steaks. Each item is cooked to order, the cheapest taco or the most expensive steak. If, like me, you order two tacos, the second one doesn't go on the grill until the first is finished - a little eye contact is the signal to fire up the grill. There were restaurants in the US with high tech systems who couldn't manage a gap between courses. 
If I treat myself to a steak it comes with two tortillas. As I'm finishing the second two more appear on my table. I haven't had a t-bone in years - these melt in my mouth. 
The first time I ordered the steak, Alex nearly fell over himself trying to encourage me to make full use of his little buffet. Nothing is refrigerated on it, but the delicate items are kept low and topped up frequently from the fridge in the back. Simple, but delicious.
When I forget to bring a teaspoon to ration the salsa on my taco one will appear, as if by magic. I dropped a fork one evening and while I was bending down to pick it up its replacement found its way to my table. For a big man he's surprisingly nimble! 

*Believe it or not, that is someone's front door!*​





His salsas are deliciously lethal! The first time I ate there I rushed away. Big mistake! Walking home I burped and thanks to the facemask effect a concentrated blast of hot salsa breath swept up and over my eyes, leaving me to weep all the way home!

*That's the original, unedited photo. Dark clouds all around but what a reflection!*​





For all my skills at finding Alex's place it's also an opportunity to display my deficiency in navigation. If I try to go there directly, I will get lost! I know where it is on a map - just damned if I can translate that into the real world. 
The best way to approach Alex's is by stealth. Go for a wander. When close enough I'll recognise some landmark and be able to cover the last block. By then, my appetite is raging!
Ha! I still harbour dreams of Tierra del Fuego and I can't even find my favourite place to eat!






Alex's place will win no prizes for its appearance, and someone without a working nose could stroll by and be unaware of the unpolished jewel they're passing, but he thinks on a different level. He has glasses for the beer, his own, branded, tankard style. He's had at least two batches of them, each with its own artwork and lyrics from Led Zepplin, Sting and Metallica amongst others. Best of all, they're stored in the freezer so the beer stays cold. Whenever I'm there I'm the only one using a glass. 
The bill is presented on an old, battered wooden plate and change is returned with a few sweets. A taco for €1,50 or a steak for €6,50, it makes no difference. A tip is accepted with such gratitude that you'd think it never happened before. Try leaving without taking a sweet and you risk causing great offence! 

*I've been walking past this for months and only noticed it last week!*​





His customers, his regulars, are friendly, welcoming and respectful. One chap left his table and stood at the edge of the canopy to have a smoke while I ate. Of course, it made no difference - the smoke still blew my way - and it really wouldn't bother me anyway so when I suggested he should sit back down with his friend he politely declined. Like Alex's place, the motivation, the objective, was pure enough to outshine any physical limitations.

Alex's place:
El Embrujo. Luis Spota 97-F CDMX.

*Lately, there's been something interesting going on with the light, especially early in the morning or near sundown. The sun is filtered by buildings or trees creating wonderful effects of bright sun and dark shade side by side*​











Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2020)

Day BlahBlahBlah





*Enhanced

It's funny the way things work out.

I'm coming up on a year in this country. I thought I'd get to Mazatlán, get a grounding in Spanish and head on south. Honestly, I thought it would be a pretty brief affair. I'd contemplated doing an extensive Mexican itinerary, hadn't settled too much on anything at departure, felt a growing dread with every warning of imminent robbery and murder in the US, then did a full 180 when I actually crossed the border. The Land of Smiles.





*Enhanced - but not by much!


Then Covid hit. 

I wasn't that long over the border when it first started to surface. 
And that there is my luck.

Had I been in the US when Covid got serious, there's no doubt but I'd in Ireland or Holland now. My US visa would have counted down and I'd have had to leave.
I would not have had the balls to make a run for the border, to a country I didn't know, with a language I didn't speak.

Instead, I was in México when things got serious. A land that doesn't just say that everyone is welcome, a land that puts that into action. Whether that's the guy who pulls me over on the road to give me cold water and a jar of honey, the woman who wanted to tow me up a hill or the Government who puts a system in place so that people like me can stay beyond their initial 180 days.

They stopped extending the visitor permits in September and as the calendar has been ticking down I've had to look again at my options.





*Enhanced

The reaction from my Embassy has been silence this time. Official advice is to "go home". It's such a contrast to my earlier contact that I'm left wondering if I've done something to really pee them off.

Option 1 is to hit the road. The border to Guatemala is open again. However, Central America is a series of borders. Covid tests are required to cross, assuming they don't get shut down again. If Covid has taught us anything, it's the futility of assumptions and plans.

Option 2 is to leave the country temporarily and return, thus "claiming" another 180 days. Given the myriad of complications, from the unreliability of air transport, the ever changing rules to do with tests and the (admittedly small) risk of getting stranded somewhere else it's not an easy option. Nor cheap.

Option 3 is to do nothing. Let my permit expire and deal with any fallout at the border. That really doesn't sit well with me. It seems like an abuse of hospitality. Disrespectful.

Option 4 is to go to the immigration people and explain my story. 

Sometimes it's good to ask!
I have some hoops to jump through, some money to pay, a letter to write (again!) and the possibility of an interview. Fan-Bloody-Tastic! I get a chance to practise my Spanish! 

*I particularly like this building. Every time I visit it looks different.*​




*Enhanced

Yesterday was my day of action. To find a place to escape to for a few days I figured a Travel Agent was best. Apparently, Costa Rica was the best place for a few days. Not cheap. 
Then I went to immigration. They only see people in the mornings and I was already too late. The security guards were hospitality personified. I returned today, different guards, same friendly attitude. We made jokes! Armed to the hilt and we're laughing together.
Inside, the most patient lady explained everything then answered my questions. 
She made everything so simple. Explained it all. Not a sigh. Not a frown.
Trying to explain to a bureaucrat in NL that I was leaving the country on a bicycle was a whole different experience! "What do you mean you don't have a ticket?"

So, I have some work to do, some forms to fill in, a letter to write. It is not guaranteed. I may still have to leave but I've no reason to fear that day. 

Not for the first time, I find myself looking upwards and thanking whatever Touring God is looking down on me for having me in this place when this damn Pandemic struck.

*The interior of the Post Office in CDMX. Magnificent!*​










That should have been the end to a very good day! But this trip keeps reminding me that I don't know what's around the next bend.

I'd written that up at a little restaurant/café I'd spotted. A fancy, trendy spot. They had tables and chairs on the street, a nice place to sit, relax, watch the world go by and treat myself. "Feck it", I thought to myself, "I'll break the budget a little". I had a sandwich and some coffees. Wrote up the first part of this on my phone and just generally let the hospitality of this place seep into my bones.

I meandered home, in no rush, relieved but excited to be having more time. Chatted to some friends at home. 

*The National Art Museum seen from the Post Office*​




*Enhanced

*The Palace of Fine Arts*​




*Enhanced

Later, at home, I started to feel unwell. Later I was really unwell. Food poisoning, I reckon. Wiped me out for the entire weekend! Couldn't move on Saturday, Sunday neither. Went out for a walk on Monday and the normal delicious smells of these streets had me rushing home! It might not seem like it, but that's a really good indicator of how poorly I must be!

So, back on track, I'll be applying for more time to stay. All going well, they'll grant me another 180 days. That will give me time to see how the vaccine situation starts to play out further south. 

Dodgy belly or not, México is pretty great!

*This wonderful building is now a clothes shop! It's on a roundabout and I had to keep jumping in and out to get the shot. Until a guy in a pickup blocked the traffic! For me!*​




*Enhanced


Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2020)

Dog Day Whatever.......

I have no idea if this city is a place for you if you have a deep seated fear or dread of dogs. Based on the wise but simple adage of "what doesn't kill you cures you", a visit to this doggy metropolis might just do the trick!
Dogs are everywhere! There is no escaping that! Dogs of all types, sizes and shapes. Most of them are loose, wandering freely. Coming from Europe and some pretty strict doggy rules, that may be a shock. As a rule, they are very well socialised and trained. In fact, one of my biggest gripes is that they are so well trained it is next nigh to impossible to have a one on one encounter with a dog! They will look, but they won't touch!

So, today's post is a doggy post in honour of the fantastic doggy population of this wonderful city.

*For months, a high wall and a closed gate in the Colonia of San Angel teased me. I could see the top of a belltower, but nothing else. Now, on a Sunday for a few hours I can get in!*​






Dogs pretty much ignore me here. They'll look, maybe wag the tail, but it's very, very unusual for a dog to engage with me. Except to bark! That wasn't my experience in the U.S.! Nor, to be fair, was it my experience in NL. Dogs regularly sought me out - in friendly ways - often to the annoyance of their bosses! 

So, one day, out wandering, there's a guy in front of me with two playful, young labradors. The path is narrow so I move on to the road to pass them. One of the dogs is just finishing a poop and his boss has the plastic bag out to scoop it up. 
As I'm walking past, chaos descends as the nearest one lunges for me in a completely playful way. I stop, look to his boss who nods his permission so I lower my hand down to him. Instant attack! Big slobbery gums descend on my hand! Now his buddy, poop finished, joins in on my other hand! It's amazing! You'd swear they had no teeth! It feels like some weird competition - which dog can swallow the most of my hand! Their poor boss is trying to pick up poop with one hand and hold on to the leads of two excited puppies in the other. There's an exasperated resignation to his aura, so I withdraw my hands and apologise to him. No, no, he says, it's ok, they like you.
Hands back and the two pups go again! 
When I finally get my hands back they were covered in happy doggy drool. I was pretty happy too! 

*Downtown......*​





There's a lady jogging down the pavement. She's not moving very quickly, but seems to be concentrating on posture and technique. Her back is straight, her knees rise right up with every stride. What may be unusual for some places (but not here) is the fact that she has company - two dogs on leads.
On her right is a black one, breed unknown, but the kind of dog that saw me as a tasty snack across the U.S. He's trotting beside her with a military precision, his pace perfectly matching hers, his focus dead ahead, the lead rising and falling as she swings her arms but never once tugging him. 
On her left however, is a boxer. I never thought much of boxers until I got to know one and what a dog! Incredibly athletic and verging on schizophrenic - how can one body contain such a large character? I've had a soft spot for them ever since. 
Anyway, this guy is nothing like Action Dan, military man, on the right. His lead is alternating between dragging on the ground and yanking his neck. His pace is erratic, his line wobbly as he spends little time looking ahead. He only has eyes for his mistress. Her eyes are focused straight ahead. Grim, serious concentration.
He pushes a little ahead, angles his body slightly towards her and then leaps up and back as if to say "Helllllloooooo! I'm down here, give me some attention". 
Whack!
Her knee gets him right in the head as he rises.
His legs keep going in the right direction….ish as he hits the ground again, dazed, and he gives his head a shake. Immediately his head turns to her as if he's been asleep and needs to see her as soon as he opens his eyes. I swear you can see the happiness in his face when he sees her again!
He's happy for a stride or two, then pulls slightly ahead and leaps again.
Bonk! She's got him again!
Never once did she break stride. 
And he kept doing it for as long as I could see them. 

*Chaos! Natural, colourful, chaos! The trick is to get the timing right and stand under there as the sun tries to blast through the greens, reds, purples, pinks and the moment when the traffic lights stop the traffic! A different, colourful, warm, enveloping world!*​





There's a guy who passes by the building most days. He's normally dressed in combat trousers and t-shirt. He's got a thick braid running down to the back of his knees. You'd think that's why I'd remember him, but it's not. It's his dog.
I've no idea what it is, but it's a fine, big, healthy dog, the kind that seems to have skin rather than fur or hair. It's the colour that's hard to pin down as it seems to slide from brown to pink to almost purple depending on the sunlight and the shade.
This dog doesn't run - he lopes. Long, leisurely strides, seemingly effortless, yet swift. I think the word "lope" was created and we've all been sitting around waiting for this dog to come along so we can go "Ah! That's what lope means!"
Sometimes the man walks, but usually he jogs. He has a lead hanging around his neck which he'll use if he senses any discomfort from others on the path. 
(I saw them approaching an elderly person being pushed in a wheelchair. A silent signal and the dog returns to his master. No objection to the big chain lead clicking onto his collar. Compliance as a chat is had, then Loper is introduced to the wheelchair bound person. Perfect behaviour. A pat on the head, another click and he's free again.)
But the dog? He revels in his freedom! And he makes use of every inch, bounding happily from one side to another, loping ahead, stopping for an exploratory sniff then joyfully chasing his master down.
It was horrifying the first time I saw him heading for the edge of the path and the busy road beside it. A waste of emotion. He came to the edge of the path, swerved, then loped along the edge without a care.
At a junction, ditto. He'll bound to the edge then stop and wait patiently for his boss. He'll cross the road beside his master and as soon as the front paws are on the next path he's off again. In a place where there are many wonderful connections to see between human and dog, this one is a little bit special.

*A doggy enclosure! Most parks have one, usually equipped with see-saws, tunnels, climbing frames, jumps and other "amusements" for dogs. They are rarely used! Instead, there are rough holes in the ground that seem to be magnets for the dogs! One, sometimes two "take over" the hole and others try to get them out! All in the best of fun! *​





There's a couple in the building who have what I call a Dulux* dog. One evening the guy had brought the dog for his constitutional and as they were on the way back the woman came out on the street, talking on the phone, her back to the pair. From a distance of about 100 meters the dog saw her and took off! There's no doubting who the dog sees as his boss! The poor guy was pavement skiing trying to hang on for dear life as this shaggy, cuddly bear of a dog bounded down the street oblivious to the panic behind him!
Hearing a commotion behind her, the woman turned just in time to see her beloved (the dog, not the guy!) take a leap into her arms! 
Chaos! Laughing and screeching as the two were reunited and the poor guy could finally catch his breath. 
The dog wasn't finished though and kept trying to jump into her arms. The phone call was quickly finished and the dog got the attention he clearly felt he deserved. Happy now, he took off again in a big circle of joy, totally taking the guy by surprise who lost one, then both his shoes as he tried in vain to both control and keep up with the big ball of happiness. 
*A Dulux dog, the internet tells me, is an Old English Sheepdog.

*For Petrolheads this city must be close to heaven!*​





In a park on the edge of the Roma neighbourhood is not one, but two mini lakes with fountains, one at least double the size of the other. For a long time these have been empty of water, but recently, the water is back and in a compact little park in a busy part of the city the sound of rushing water is quite relaxing and pleasant.
But there's more!
Sitting on a little bench, watching people move about I'm treated (because it was a treat!) to the sight of a man walking his two dogs, one Shepherd, one husky type. Neither dog is on a lead, both snuffling and exploring. It was the shepherd that first put his front paws on the low wall of the little lake, but it was the Husky that, after a quick glance to his boss, leapt over the wall and into the water. 
Dogs have a range of sounds that they can emit, nothing like the shrieks of joy that kids make in the same situation (available in a different park, a different fountain!), but I'm pretty sure if his voicebox could manage it, Husky dog would have been squealing too! 
He jumped out, landing cleanly on the wide wall, shook himself out, turned around and jumped back in!
Sheperd was agitated, front paws on the wall, his head spinning from buddy to boss. "Look what Husky's doing!", I'm sure he was saying. He'd turn away from the wall, drop down, run in an agitated circle then back to the wall. Yep! His buddy was still splashing around!
One last run to his boss and Shepherd mounted the wall. I'm sure it didn't happen, maybe it was me doing it, but he seemed to take a deep breath then followed his friend! 
Two, biggish dogs in the water, playing, was a different, clashing noise to moments before. People looked to see, most smiled, some stopped to watch. Just another day in this great city!

*The Husky/Shepherd swimming pool*​





Sometimes, I'll get the chance to see someone training their dog in the park. One time I got to see someone training their son in the park!
The dog's a mongrel, I'd reckon pretty close to fully grown, but still young. At the other end of the lead is a young fella, 10 or 11 years old. It's hard to say which looks the most nervous!
The dog is standing rigid stiff right on the edge of the doggy enclosure in the park. Other dogs are coming over to say hello and this is the source of the anxiety to dog and BoyBoss. Since they're near the gate and not much is happening, the "welcoming committee" (every doggy section has one) wander off.
That's the cue for an instruction from Mama to lengthen the lead a bit. Mongrel doggy, steps gingerly away, exploring a little. More dogs come over to say hello and congratulate her on her increased freedom. BoyBoss starts to relax a little too. Another instruction from Mama and the lead is removed! Mongrel doggy is clearly nervous and Mama speaks directly to BoyBoss. BoyBoss gets down beside her, talking softly, telling her not to be afraid. He's afraid too!
More dogs are milling around now, investigating, sniffing, encouraging her to play. On instruction from Mama, BoyBoss calls her back from time to time, just to make sure she's still listening. 
After a little while, BoyBoss takes the now unused lead from around his neck and throws it over the fence to Papa, standing outside the doggy park, watching it all. BoyBoss and Mongrel doggy are both ready for the crazy world of the dog enclosure.

*Another doggy enclosure! What an absolutely fantastic place to bring a dog! *​





Frisbee dog is a character and one of the smartest dogs I've come across. Frisbee dog has two frisbees, a blue one and a pink one which seem to be changed according to whim, a dog of our times. Frisbee dog's boss is a lady who either knows most people in the doggy area or is just naturally sociable. I know this because she spends most of her time in the park chatting to other people. Frisbee dog's boss has one job - throw the frisbee. Once.
Once thrown, and once caught, Frisbee does one of the smartest things I've seen - he trots over to the nearest human, drops the frisbee at their feet and proceeds to bark at them until they pick it up and throw it! Occasionally, he'll have to put his foot down - literally - his right paw on that day's frisbee of choice as if to say "Hey! There's a frisbee here! Focus! It's not going to throw itself, you know!". 
Due to this "any-human-will-do" attitude, the frisbee throwing varies in quality. I haven't figured out yet, if Frisbee dog has sorted out the good throwers from the bad!
Frisbee dog is not a handsome dog. Close cropped curly hair, like a real bad perm, covering a mongrel's body, legs too long for the torso, or a torso too short for the legs and a tail that looks distinctly odd yet gives no obvious reason why. However, combine a human with decent frisbee throwing skills and a decent, clear run and watch carefully because there's a heartbeat or three when you'll see a transformation from yappy, demanding, ugly dog to graceful, handsome, skilled athlete flying through the air and capturing a spinning disc. Once he lands, these days in a little explosion of reddish brown dust, he's back to his alter ego. 

*The "Secret Church", San Angelo, again*​





I got talking to a girl the other evening! On a busy street at a junction meandering home after a day's wandering that most unusual of events occurred! A dog made eye-contact with me then bounded over to play! Right there! On a busy path! 
This is so unusual for here and I was delighted! 
One moment there's a glance across a crowded pavement, a splaying of the front paws, a slight dip of the shoulders and the next there's a brown blur of muscle weaving at high speed through pairs of walking legs.
I put my hand out for him to have a sniff and next moment it's in his mouth and he's teasing me with his teeth! 
His boss, a girl, called out her apologies and I replied, grinning, "No hay problema". Hearing my accent she apologised in English and I replied "Está muy, muy bien".
He was a retriever of some kind, dark brown, lean, strong and big. But a big puppy dog at heart! 
I got down on one knee and he jumped up trying to knock me over. We wrestled for a moment or two, his paws on my shoulders until he tickled my right ear with his teeth. 
I spoke to his boss, told her who I was, where I was from, how I ended up here. I told her she had a fine dog. I told her of the time I had on my hands, that a fit, athletic dog like that needed lots of exercise and I volunteered my time to take him to parks and play.
I did all that - about 5 minutes after she'd called him back, apologised again and crossed the road with him. Walking along the street in the fading sunlight, I said all that! While trying to talk to to her my tongue swelled up to about 17 times its normal size and my mind went blank!
But there, for a moment, on a busy street, I got to play with a great dog! 

Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (19 Dec 2020)

Day Whatever.......

*Apropos Absolutely Nothing! There are some absolutely magnificent views through the trees at the moment. Blue sky background, bright sun, the variety of trees and foliage....
I dream of a star filled night in the middle of nowhere, but as always it seems, this city throws up some wonderful alternatives!*​





Sometimes I have to admire the ingenuity of Mother Nature and her creatures.
Here, in a sprawling metropolis, there is a healthy dose of wildlife. Birds are everywhere. I've even seen a hummingbird! I've seen a variety of lizards scurrying for cover from broken walls when my wandering disturbs their sunbathing. Even the park that I frequent to sit in the sun and do some Spanish has a healthy population of rats - surprisingly un-horrifying and rather amusing to watch! Squirrels are in abundance. One large park specifically has signs asking people not to feed them as they are destroying the fabric of the park. This is México - the locals don't pay attention with the result that when a bumbling, play-by-the-rules visitor sits down the squirrels get quite annoyed at the lack of a food offering and attempt to open the poor dumbass's backpack!

*Hey, Dumbass! Feed me!*​





Right outside my building there are three tall trees, overlapping near their tops. As well as a tangle of small, presumably internet, cables, there are three, thick, heavy electrical lines running through the trees. It was here I saw my first ever hummingbird, a small pair of birds that seem to spend all their non-eating time either flirting or fighting and an intrepid squirrel using the electric cables to move along the street.

I was amazed at this sight! What a brave little guy! (Or girl!) What a fantastic way to get around! Above all the craziness!
At first, I was sure he was the Magellan of his species, but as winter has rolled in and the sun has changed, I've found myself wandering around with my head looking up through the trees more often than not. Magellan is not alone!

*The Metro for Squirrels!*​





The electric lines are like the metro for the squirrel population! It's perfectly normal, even boring, to the locals, but I'm captivated by the aerial shenanigans. Especially at the junctions! Leaping from one line to another, crossing over the crazy queues of weaving, honking traffic and then continuing along another street. I've actually tried to follow one or two to see where they're going, but they move so swiftly, so surely, that I can't keep up!

*Not the greatest pic in the world, but it demonstrates a couple of things; The sheer wonder of the shapes of trees and the proximity of cables to trees*​





And then there was yesterday.
A squirrel dancing along the electric line in front of my building caught my eye. I had a peep outside and noticed an unnatural waving higher up one of the trees. Another squirrel. Then another!
This tree that has withstood God-knows-what in terms of storms, flooding, traffic, dog business and earthquakes is waving wildly near the top. With the bright sun and the pretty dense leaf cover, I can only catch glimpses of leaping squirrels, so I grab my coffee to watch them playing.
My mind draws me back to early mornings in some of the campgrounds along my way and the amusement of watching a couple of squirrels chasing each other around.

*The only photo from a cemetery.....*​




** Google auto-enhanced the colours*

Every now and then, there seems to be an exodus from one tree to the other, one falling still while the other comes to explosive life behind the leaves.
Eventually, I went back to my Spanish but had a little look every now and then.
There's a famous, overly long bridge on The Way of St. James (Camino in Spain) that was a scene of many Knight challenges and duels. I've been on that bridge, astride a loaded bike, and I'd be lying if I said that I hadn't imagined myself riding along with a lance, ready to unseat some Lance Armstrong wannabe. Winning Sheryl Crowe would have been a bonus!

*Trees & Cables..... Perfect for squirrel Magellans*​





Well, a little later, two squirrels faced each other down, with a thick, black cable in place of a stone bridge.
I watched them face each other down, then on some animal signal unseen by myself, charge the three or four feet towards each other. If there were any battle-cries they were drowned out by the flowing traffic about 10 or 12 meters below them.
Bam! Pow! It was over in seconds! The battleground shifted backwards about 6 feet and the retreating squirrel was despatched to the ground at the base of a tree.
He landed on his feet, gathered himself for all of half a second, scurried along the path, unusually dog free, then climbed up another tree.
The victor, full of disdain, turned around and re-entered the "main"tree and was soon lost in all the activity up top.
Vanquished squirrel seemed to take a bit of time in the far tree, then out of nowhere he bombed out of its leaves, sprinted along the cable to the second tree, seemed to fly upwards through the branches then launched himself across into the first tree, no doubt looking to avenge himself.

I'd love to describe what happened next but it would all be in the realms of fantasy! It was impossible to tell what was going on!
Like Tom & Jerry going at it in a cloud with bolts of lighting and exclamation marks and little explosions, the tree was a swirling mass of hidden activity. I'd catch a glimpse of a squirrel dropping from the end of one branch, catching another, then vanishing back into the foliage. I'd witness a strategic retreat onto a cable, a pause then a full blooded return to the fray! What I'd mistaken as play seemed to be war!
Occasionally, all would fall quiet. I reckoned there were at least 5 individual warriors, and on some cue, they became ninjas. Just when I'd go to return to my Spanish the tree would explode again!

This went on, on and off, for most of the morning. I went off for a walk and after I returned, all was quiet.






I have no idea what started the War of the Squirrels. Was there a store of nuts in one of the trees? Was there a "Helen of Squirrels" that started the war? Where did they go? Were some of them still in the tree? So many questions!

*Of course, sometimes a squirrel doesn't need any wires at all.......*






*I love to imagine a squirrel passing through this beauty on his "commute"*​







Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2020)

Monday December 21, 2020

_If you want to make the big man upstairs laugh, tell him your plans. _

Dumbass that I am, I'd started making a few plans for the Christmas period. 
I'd a few day trips picked out. One to an area that points back to the time before the Spaniards arrived and drained the lakes in this area. A kind of Mexican Venice. I visited earlier and it was desperately sad, all these brightly coloured boats tied up, weeds taking over the waterways. Really narrow streets that normally are filled with bike taxis all empty.
It would be good to see this area over the holidays - bright and alive!
I had decided to treat myself to an open-top bus tour of the city. 
I was also going to sleep in the tent! Damn but I miss the tent! It would only be an overnighter, but loading up the bike again and heading off suddenly became really important once the idea had formed in my head. I'd take advantage of quieter city roads over the holidays, have a bit of an adventure and start the New Year on a high! 

Then Friday rolled around.

Lockdown.

All non essential businesses to close. Effective immediately. 

*Lockdown. Tables & chairs locked up*​





Alex, my taco guy, was angry when I called around for my last sit down meal. Not with the Government, but with the "people" (he used a different term!) who don't treat the virus seriously. It's infuriating how much of an effect these people have on so many others. He'll still be open, but for takeaway only. 
You know the way they say you only miss something when it's gone? Well, the walk home after another simple but tasty meal was really when I started to feel the loss of something that has become quite important. It's not the food.

The rest of the weekend was feeling quite sorry for myself, really. Selfish, I know. 
I'm blessed, really, it just didn't feel like it. I've enough cop on to know that feelings aren't real things and I've enough experience of this wonderful city to know that it will calm me, charm me, wrap me up in its CrazyBeauty if I give it a chance. 
I walked a lot over the weekend and it was starting to work. 

Then, today was D-day.

I'd studied the website, filled in the forms online, downloaded them, had them printed out, gone to the bank to make the necessary payments. All I had to do was go down to the immigration office, present everything, possibly do an interview and all going well, I'd have legal permission to stay for a while longer.

Up before the sun, I had coffee but skipped breakfast. I was nervous. Headed off on the bike in plenty of time. The city was quieter than it has been in months. A very pleasant cycle it was, but it barely registered with me.

I arrived at the offices, locked the bike up and joined the usual queue of people, like myself, hoping for the benefit of the doubt from the Government.

This time was different though, since the queue didn't seem to be going anywhere. Then a man came out to address the people waiting.
He was probably in his fifties, but a lean, fit man with surprisingly well styled grey hair. He was dressed casually and sporting a green, Government issue bodywarmer. It was his face and his voice though that was the real mark of the man. He had a friendly, patient and relaxed face and when he spoke his voice mirrored that appearance.

The offices were closed and would remain closed until January 10, at least. He pointed to a large banner (that I'd totally missed) that carried the same message. Except, that when he said it, he added "No preocuparse" to every sentence.

Don't worry.

Of course he was bombarded with questions, often the same ones over and over. The only time his voice wasn't patient or friendly was when he asked people to keep their distance. When they did, the smile, the friendliness returned.
"No preocuparse" he started every answer and continued with a confidence and calmness that was infectious.
He was especially kind to two black guys without a word of Spanish, breaking into English to tell them to return in January. There would be no problems. And that smile.

Had Santa Claus himself pulled up in his sleigh, hopped out and wrapped me up in a big bear hug I could not have felt better. 

On my way home I found a new park and stopped off to explore. A poodle pup and an old, old beagle came over to say hello. Their boss, a tiny old lady was perfectly happy for the poodle to chew my hand, wrap its lead around my leg and when the old beagle tried to get in on the games and jump up on me, his old hind legs wouldn't cooperate. I got down to his level and I think that delighted his boss more than him.
*Lincoln Park. Doggy Therapy.*​










It's amazing how this city always seems to look after me so well. 

No preocuparse. Words to live by.

*Spanish uses a lot of reflexive verbs like preocuparse. To translate it correctly, no preocuparse is actually don't worry yourself, to my way of thinking a much more accurate reflection of the process. 

*On the way home......*​















*A group of teenagers were working on this all last week*





*CDMX, A magical place*



​Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2020)

Day Whatever........

Coyocán has my poor heart broken!
I've been bursting to write about this area, one of the oldest Hispanic parts of this great Metropolis.

This is where the Spaniards set up shop as they destroyed a city and a civilisation, then set about creating a new one. Cortez built his house here. They built a fabulous church here.
The modern world borders this area - big, busy roads sweeping in and out of the city, but within those borders is a world of beauty, wonder, architecture, history, fable, art, religion, poverty and the most amazing combination of CrazyBeautifulCalm.

With great wide streets named for major European cities - Berlin, Paris, Vienna, Madrid, London it nods its head to elegance. With twisty, turny, narrow, cobbled streets it betrays its very foundation.
An old town of architectural wonder, with a Church so beautiful inside, yet falling apart outside, balances with an area of trendy, international stores that is hideously attractive.
I can walk down streets where only the very rich can live, yet in the same area are shacks hidden behind walls, their corrugated roofs no taller than me.
An enclosed market sells everything from attractively displayed fruit and veg to electronics and books, clothing both international and indigenous as well as all the usual tourist knick knacks. Oh, and fish, chicken and all kinds of meats. A riot of colours and aromas, and that's before you consider all the food stalls in the middle of it! It's a stimulating assault on all the senses!
There's the Blue House, Frida Kahlo's home and monument to an inspirational artist and there's a simple but outstanding Cultural Museum, free to enter (when open) full of charming, bright, colourful "people's art".
I can't possibly describe how helpful Coyocán has been to me. If you ever find yourself in the middle of a global pandemic I hope you can find your Coyocán. My experience would have been very different without it.
It never fails to calm me, entertain me, charm me, soothe me, inspire me. Sometimes I'll be found standing on a junction taking in the view in every direction, giving each cardinal point several minutes attention and I still can't absorb it all. Months after I first found this jewel, I can still discover something new on a street I've travelled so many times before.

*A sweeping, broad street, lush, vital, full of nature's noise and colour. *​





*An atmospheric, cobbled gateway to the past......
*​





*Bruised, battered and lived history everywhere.........*






*Yet daily life goes on, adding its own character......*



​However, Coyocán deserves better than to be described and photographed now.

Warning: A metaphor is about to be murdered!

In my (very active!) imagination it's like I met Marissa Tomei, but Marissa is a bit under the weather. She wouldn't thank me for posting photographs of her clammy features, her runny, red nose. She wouldn't like to read a description of her coughing, sweating and sneezing. So I won't. I'll wait until I can give her the proper attention she deserves.

Unfortunately, Coyocán is the epicentre of this damn virus so that the wonderful park is closed off, plazas are closed off and good sense dictates that I don't stop in certain areas.
To write more about this enchanting place under those circumstances would be grossly unfair. To publish photos of benches covered in plastic or tape, of armed police "guarding" plazas would be a disservice.

*An area of this vitality deserves a proper description.......*​





*There's a sad irony that such a "lived in" place is under a pall of death*






*I've visited some of the great museums of this city, seen some wonderful architecture, yet this "free" museum in Coyocán is my favourite*




*
Homemade banners for religious parades, a blending of ancient mythology and Catholic ritual. My poor skills cannot get close to representing the vividness of the colours*



However, I've discovered that one of Marissa's toes is in perfect health!
It could be any toe, but it'll be represented by La Avenida Francisco Sosa.

Over the next few days I'll be posting about this magical street.

*La Avenida Francisco Sosa*​



(

Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Dec 2020)

La Avenida Francisco Sosa Part II

La Avenida Francisco Sosa is 1.6 km long, running from the junction of Avenida Universidad at the wonderful Capilla de San Padua to the centre of the old town.

It's horrible to walk on. The footpaths can be narrow, broken, often destroyed by the roots of trees. The street is cobbled in sections, big, lumpy, uneven stones and incredibly uncomfortable. Don't try it on a bike!
Throw in some rain or darkness and it's less like a gentle stroll and more like a survival hike!
However, there's a magnet on that street that pulls me back again and again and again. Horrible it may be to walk on, but magical too!

*I can't count the times I've gone over on an ankle in this city! Yet, I wouldn't change it for anything! The trees are Kings! Us mere humans have to work around them!*​





*This is fun..in the dry! In the rain? A nightmare! Don't even try using an umbrella!*​






It was on this street that, lost in the moment of trying to photograph one of many wonderful doors and gates, a car patiently pulled up behind me, waited and waved and smiled at me when I finally got off the road. That was the first time it happened. That same incident has been replayed many times in different parts of the city. Truthfully, it's a feckin' miracle I haven't been flattened!
It was on this street that I had my first proper, human-to-hound contact (actually two for the price of one!) in months.
It was on this street that I saw and met "Catarina".
It was on this street that I bought flowers for el Día de Muertos and had a wonderful, heart-warming conversation with a flower seller.
It was sitting on the bridge on this street that my first lizard came to say hello! I think it may be the broken pavements, but I never fail to spot at least one of these cold blooded creatures on every visit.

*Do you remember this guy? Music blaring, a female passenger and quite possibly the world's brightest smile? Last seen in a totally different part of the city on a Sunday morning! The joy radiating from that car is something to behold!*​





For such an old street it constantly changes. Walking it early in the morning with the sun behind me, no traffic and just the birds for company it is a fiesta of colour. The sun on the trees is magnificent! Many flowering bushes creep over walls from private gardens to brighten my journey. Even the houses, many painted in bright colours catch the sun and seem to sparkle.
At night, the trees are the stage for an unearthly play, performed right above my head.

*A fiesta of colour!*​





*If ever there was a reason to drag myself out of bed early.......*




​Public streetlighting is erratic in terms of height, angle and intensity and is supplemented by lights on the houses. These lights cast strange hues of filtered light onto the various trunks and branches, resulting in the occasional golden branch emerging from an underwater green trunk. Spooky!
Above, this light may reflect off the leaves of one tree, creating a pool of luminous leaves, while the tree next to it sulks in inky blackness.
(The street is quite narrow, the trees are very close together, often weaving between each other at the top. On other, wider streets, this nighttime light effect is brilliantly beautiful!)
Sometimes, the tree has swallowed the light and, up there, amongst the branches and leaves a solitary, useless light burns brightly in a small circle. An alien from another planet perhaps, watching me watching it!
In the rain, the water pools between the cobbles and distant headlights create the illusion of thousands of tiny streams gushing around my feet. The trees shield me from water up above, but their roots create little ponds of darkness or reflection depending on the light. The rain bouncing off the cobbles, the waterfalls from the roof overflow pipes make their own kinds of threatening mood music.

*Night brings its own version of beauty and atmosphere.......*​






*I am particularly proud of this shot! No editing, no enhancing, no flash. In the interests of transparency, this was taken in another street, but this is typical of the nighttime effect.*





At the weekends it has a different vibe to the rest of the week, especially near to the old town. Traffic is heavier (yet very polite and friendly), street sellers populate the section closer to the old town too.

*A boot shop!*​






At 1.6 km long, you'd think that traversing its length would be a straightforward task, even for someone with my distorted sense of direction. But it's not!
There are side streets to be explored, too! It was months before I actually walked the whole length of the street without being pulled off course. The street itself can only be described as straight….ish, but the side streets can curve away, around a bend, then link up with other little streets. Before I know it, I've no idea where I am! 

*A side street. I think I can be forgiven for wandering off course!*​





*Or this one........*​





The time that Covid has given me, the removal of deadlines, the freedom to just be in the moment is, I hope, a change in perspective I can hold onto.

To be continued......


Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (29 Dec 2020)

La Avenida Frincisco Sosa Ctd......

So why this street? There are lots and lots of interesting streets in this area. 
To me, it speaks to history. 
The old town of Coyocán was one of the first Spanish centres of power. This street linked that power centre to the main road and on to what is now México City. In a way, this street from Church to Plaza has a story to tell. 

*I'm no carpenter but whenever I pass this particular door I find it hard to believe that it's not an original. I mean, just look at it!*​





That power centre attempted to destroy the physical, cultural and religious society that preceded it. 
Ironically, the further we get from that time, the less successful it appears the Conquistadors were. New ruins are regularly being found, pre-Spanish mythical and religious imagery are prevalent in the work of artists today and aboriginal folk, in full dress, will perform ancient cleansing rituals on you - right outside the great Cathedral!

It is so easy to wander down the street, squint a little, and wait for a Don to come trotting down the street on his horse. 
Look at any of the buildings - they nearly all have a big gate to accommodate horses and wagons. Yeah, these days it's likely to be a big SUV entering and exiting, but with a little imagination…..






Buildings incorporate religious imagery in the walls, over gates or doors, on the roof. "Spreading the Word" was an important motivation in the Spanish conquest.

*Just one of many religious symbols the length of this street. It always has fresh flowers.*​





A beautiful, vivid yellow old church, set in a green Plaza reinforces the power of religion about half way down, but in a soft, welcoming, civic way. The plaza is a popular space at weekends (partly because it's open!)
From the start of the street to the end, that makes three churches! 






To add to the historical context, ceramic tiles on some buildings give the history of important people who lived in these buildings. 
Important to remember too, that the bridge over the river at one end is one of the oldest bridges in the country.







Despite the history from gable to cobblestone, the street also speaks to the development through time. Some of the buildings are more modern, some have been converted into trendy coffee places or artesenal markets. 











The people who lived, were born or died here were influential in the development of this city and country and are commemorated with ceramic tiles embedded in the appropriate buildings.
Beside the lady selling traditional, brightly coloured blankets is a young couple with an amazing array of customised boots for sale! Doc Martens, in style (if not content), these have traditional, vividly bright designs sewn on the boot. Traditional and modern! 
I can't help but think that the Italians share my view of this street. Far, far away from the Embassies and Consulates, the Italians have a "Cultural" embassy on this street!





*And back to the old......*






Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2020)

La Avenida Francisco Sosa......ctd

Finally, and probably most importantly, this street speaks to Romance.
The trees are characters all of their own. Yes, some are wider than a car and make me squeeze between them and a wall. Most have roots that are intent on making a walk….interesting! But, the sunlight shining through them? Spectacular! In the rain, they're like big umbrellas. In the dark, mysterious worlds are created above my head by the streetlights. The changing seasons means different colour leaves, plants blooming in different places. And, of course, some of the trees are home to flocks of birds. At different times of the day there's a chorus above my head.

*Shade on a hot day, an umbrella for rain, home to birds and creators of wonderful atmosphere. It is genuinely amazing to me how big and dominant these trees are on such a narrow street.*










*Helpful hint! Do not walk and look up. Your ankles will thank you! But look up! Definitely look up!*



​"The House of Sun", "The House of the Garden of Oranges", "House of the Red Lion", "The Orange Trees"; what wonderfully descriptive names for buildings!
Even the buildings themselves are seductive and romantic. More often than not, the design is of a high wall facing the street. Behind the wall there will be a building and lots of free space. Perhaps, I can catch sight of the top of the building and the tops of trees, but what's behind the wall remains a tantalising mystery - at least until I strike it lucky to be passing as the gates swing open. Then I see beautiful old buildings, cooling, calming gardens of trees and bushes, normally a fountain or other water feature too. Behind the walls there is, simply, another, secret world.





*On such a narrow street a decent shot is almost impossible. *



​More than once I've been invited in to a private residence to have a look around! One remarkable morning a gate swung open as I ambled past. I caught a glimpse of flowering plants, a tree and an old car. I stopped just past the gate and leaned backwards for a longer peep. A man stepped in front of me and invited me to look around.
He had two gardeners and was busy delegating the day's work. The area in front of his golden yellow house was open and relaxing. Parked to one side was a car - from 1960 he proudly told me, and still running! - a model and brand I did not recognise. A Zenith, I believe.
He chatted happily with me and joked that I was lucky - his neighbours would charge me 10 pesos to look around!

*Just look at the trees behind the wall! And the house? Where is it? What's it like?*



​Not all the buildings are grand. There is at least one roofless wreck, and another, near the Church end, is a shadow of its former glory. To me, this just emphasises that this is a living street, evolving, changing, but leaving a tantalising, solid trail to its past.







*With the trees, the winter sunshine the sunlight is always playing off the trees, creating all kinds of wonderful patterns*​






*I haven't been able to figure out what's behind this gate. But look at it! That street to the right brings me past exclusive, gated apartment developments straight down to a busy, noisy, thumping main road and a huge, modern shopping centre. A totally different world!*​






*I love this building! The doorway is angled and recessed, with a religious statue beside the door. *​






Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2021)

La Avenida Francisco Sosa.......still!

Without a doubt, my favourite part of the street is the Church end, beside the busy Avenida de Universidad. The sad, neglected Church that inspired my (mistaken) trip to the Palace of Fine Arts, then the National Art Museum speaks to me in ways that I don't understand. I have taken hundreds of photos of that church and not a single one does it justice. The little river, often smelly, does not help create a positive impression and the poor bridge, with its fading engravings and traces of graffiti can be seen with regret or as a sign of weary defiance. 

*It really, really doesn't look like much. La Capilla de San Padua, the usual salesman set up outside, selling blankets, facemasks (Mazi's is from there) and other knick knacks. That's the start of La Avenida Francisco Sosa. The bridge to the right of the church, La Avenida Universidad in front. The picture doesn't give the sound of constant traffic, the horn honking, the sound of tyres on cobbles as soon as they turn onto the bridge. Neither does it give the smell from the almost dry river. 
But look closer. The bell towers don't match (very common) and the sun is shining right on the wall of the bridge. My favourite spot to sit. The world flies around me. 





The rear of the Church, the seller and his wife loading their stock into a taxi for their trip home.




*
_*The river, taken during the rainy season, so quite full. People live along the river.





I don't know what this would be called. It's one side of the bridge and it's clear to see that it appears to be neglected.
I love it! Graffiti and all! *_
*There's a date, all but faded away on it, 02 February, 1763.





This wonderful building, impossible to photograph properly, is now a Museum of Sound, unfortunately, closed since my arrival. It was formerly the home of Nobel Laureate (Literature) of Octavio Paz. What a home to write in!





It may not look like much but this is a nice place to sit and admire Octavio Paz's house on the opposite side of the street. I love the fact that it's a bit neglected and that there's graffiti. It makes the street real, lived in, used. 






Francisco Sosa. Poet and liberal thinker. It's a little sad that approximately half the western world would now dismiss someone based on that label. 
I'm not a good correspondant because I've done no research on the man whatsoever. To me, it's not that important. The street named for him is another story though.





One of my favourite houses….. 
#321 has "Lift Off" under its number and on the opposite pillar "Life is not walking on a red carpet, it is following the Yellow (Brick) Road. I love it!








*​
The opposite end, with a view onto a park/plaza through an ancient gate is just so sad at the moment. Bright yellow tape covers the gateway and obscures the view of the grand old church in the centre of Coyocán itself.

But the walk between these two points? Something very special.

After an epic 1.6 km...... The End!






Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2021)

20 Feckin' 20!

First day on the bike in 2020 on the way to Cuatro Cienegas. I thought the sky was a sign of rain…..ha! Dumbass!





Crossing a desert!





The Devil's Backbone!





Sunset on the Pacific at Mazatlán. The Pacific! I cycled across a feckin' continent!





Sunset on Lago de Chapala. 





Don't go to Michoacán, said the advice, and if you do stay off the backroads…..
This is one of my favourite photos. It simply says "adventure"





Aporo. Home in a crazy, turbulent world.





CDMX: The old and the new, the living and the dead, the rich and the poor. Not what I was expecting but damn, it's hard to imagine a kinder place to see out a pandemic.















Happy New Year!

Thanks for following along.

Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Jan 2021)

Day whatever.......

Scenes from CDMX at the start of 2021

42 is a special number for me. Anyone who's familiar with "The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" knows that 42 is the answer to everything. Using that as a kind of inspiration, I took turning 42 as a target to get some control over my life. Of course, me being me, I didn't make it on time, but it was a target to aim for, a destination that once set allowed a framework of sorts, a plan, to be put into action. It could be said that 42 got me to here!
Just before Christmas, however, 42 took on a different significance. Here, in México, in November, the death rate was 42% higher in 2020 than 2019. 
42.





I can count on one hand how many times I've been bored in this great city. All I have to do is drag my ass outside and before long I'll see something that excites, shocks, stimulates, saddens or just plain amuses me. 
However, back in the rainy season, I was having a bad morning and feeling very meh. Then a memory floated in front of me and I started thinking about Casas Grandes.
Casas Grandes (Big Houses) is the starting point of an epic song, made famous by the incomparable Joe Ely, but written by Tom Russel.
It has (almost) everything that an epic story has - adventure, risk, betrayal, honour, but lacks a love angle. 
Oh! The song is "Gallo del Cielo"!
(The Rooster of Heaven - I had to come to México to learn that!😁)


View: https://youtu.be/erolGO00ydI


Way, way, way back when this trip was a flimsy, flittering figary I decided that one of the places I wanted to visit was the hometown of the hero of this song. 
Ha! Dumbass!
There are lots and lots of Casas Grandes! The one I deemed most likely, based on careful study of the lyrics, is in a pretty dodgy border area. Casas Grandes gradually floated away…..
(Such is the luck I possess, Joe played a postponed gig in San Antonio when I visited and of course, played the song!)
So, on my meh day, I fired up Google Maps and went looking for another Casas Grandes. Maybe something for when I hit the road again.
Turns out, I could walk there! 





This is a noisy city. There is no getting away from that. In a former life I'd have been very wound up about that. But here? That would just be a waste of energy. (A neighbour of mine in NL reported the local church to the police for ringing their bells!)
What I notice most about the noise is not the multitude of individual components that make all that noise, but rather, what's missing. 
There's no malice. At all. 
(Well, maybe once or twice. The only road-rage I've witnessed was a cyclist giving a driver a good "talking to!")
I have yet to witness any anti-social behaviour or a row. It's a bizarre experience to be wandering in a big park (treese are excellent sound insulators) or a quiet street only to exit and land up in a throbbing rush hour flood of humanity and be faced with a barrage of noise - straining engines, horns, a whole cacophony of human made clamour. And it just fits. 
*December 24, 2020*​





México gets a bad press. Today, the top Latin American story on the Guardian site is about a massacre at a wake yesterday. Maybe I'm the dumbest dumbass of all time, but I don't feel scared when I read that. Instead, I think of the number of times I have been shown nothing but kindness, honesty and generosity here. 
Especially an early day when buying a coke in a little village I carefully counted out my coins to pay the 50 pesos requested. The poor man behind the counter was bemused and confused as he just as carefully counted out the 15 pesos I owed, returning the 35 I had oh-so-carefully overpaid!
And I think back to the day visiting an empty church and in a basket, sitting on a table outside the door is a fifty peso note just fluttering in the wind. What I see, read (and heard, mainly in the U.S.) does not compute with what I see. 
*December 26, 2020*​





This city is full of entrepreneurs! It probably deserves a post all of its own because the topic is so broad and deep. Some, like the guys who operate "trains" in some of the parks at weekends have invested heavily, while others, like the dog walkers invest only their time. The guys who operate fleets of battery powered cars for kids to drive in and around the park have more on the line than the rollerblade teachers who will teach the basics using little more than a few mini traffic cones.
I've seen a bonesetter operating from a park bench (at least that's how I translated his sign), numerous "guides" official and otherwise hanging out forlornly near some of the tourist sites and one of my favourites, a "pop up" bike mechanic set up on the street, beside a bus-stop. He had a small collection of tools and spare parts spread out on a blanket and was working on an upturned bike. It seems to be his "spot", only there at weekends.

*December 26, 2020*​





There's no shortage of doggy stories in this place and with so many dogs it's not surprising that cats (thankfully in my book!) are a rare sight. However, one day I did see a guy cycling along with his cat comfortably perched on his shoulder! 
Stranger still, was a little old lady shuffling along not with a cat, but a full-of-life-chicken, perched proudly on her shoulder. 
*A rare cat picture!*​





I set off on Christmas Morning with no particular place to go. Just a morning walk to work up an appetite for my special, luxury, budget bustin' breakfast of sausages, bacon, mushrooms, eggs and some toast. As I walked past my local park it was unusually quiet (later it would be busier than normal - bikes, rollerblades, and various other toys had to be played with!) my destination fell into place.
I haven't visited a graveyard since El Día de Muertos but there was one grave I wanted to pay my respects to.
The orange Marigolds were replaced with the traditional Christmas plant here with vivid red flowers set off by dark green leaves (I've no idea of the name), the usual decorations had silver and gold tinsel weaved through them and the grave itself had been extended through the addition of a wooden, latted crate that now contained a crib (Nativity scene).
Since this was relatively early on Christmas day, the Baby Jesus was not yet present (a detail I approved of), but Mary, Joseph, the Three Wise Men and a crazy, eclectic menagerie of animals were all present.
The idea did cross my mind to stay, discreetly, and wait for the delivery of the newborn Jesus. I have an urge to meet the person who tends to this grave. But that just felt wrong, invasive, so I wandered off trying to figure out how such a sad scene can be so uplifting.

*Christmas Morning. Note the barrier and tape keeping people away.*​





*The last dawn of 2020*





_*My local park, a little later*_




**Slightly enhanced because the Palm tree deserves it! *​Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2021)

Day Whatever……

I'm starting to come to the conclusion that México, and this beautiful pearl of a city especially, is actually detrimental to cycle touring. It's starting to feel like a graveyard, a place where bikes and touring dreams gather and die.

*I've never been a particular fan of modern buildings. However, here, so many use glass and with the bright sun and the abundance of trees there are often fabulous reflections.*​





For those not proficient in irony or who can't detect my tongue jammed firmly in a cheek it may be an idea to have a translator 

A graveyard here is a place of joy, of celebration!

*Johnny Cash, the Great Johnny Cash wrote a song about the "40 shades of green". He was singing about my homeland, but it applies to my new one too!*​





Cycling, or maybe I should write wandering around on my bike, has one "killer app" for me - it takes up just enough of my "functional" brainpower to keep it occupied, but allows and actively encourages the creative, imaginative, dreamy side to wander where it will, a mirror image almost, of what I'm doing on the bike. Ideas, thoughts, feelings that tease, tantalise and flutter about on the edge of my consciousness have a chance to grow, become fully formed adults and less likely to fly away over the horizon of my mind when I get off the bike.

Today, one of those vague, intangible, gossamer thoughts that has been gliding around the edges of my consciousness for quite a while finally became substantial when I realised that this crazybeautiful city has just about everything I ever want on a bike tour!

*I've found water!!*​





What do I want on a bike tour?
Well, I suppose the first thing I want is to feel that I'm in a different place, a place other than "home". (Despite the obvious thought-tangle, I love the idea that home is wherever I land).
To support the idea of being away from home, I want to see different things. I'm a huge fan of water, so oceans, seas, rivers and lakes, hell, even a canal is a part of that. So too mountains - preferably in the distance. And forests! But in a pinch, even an unfamiliar road will do.
And, as I discovered when I started commuting by bike every day, even the slowly changing seasons and light can be different enough to blow the spark of a functional ride into a cosy, red glowing tour.
Well, this city is different all the time! It's a chameleon! The same street at different times of the day presents a different side. I can cycle past a building dozens of times and I'd only notice it if it fell on me. But one moment, with the sun shining just right…… it's a work of art!
I don't think I'll ever get used to the Palm trees. There's nothing like a Palm tree to remind me I'm not in Kansas anymore….. and to put a big smile on my face!

*I love this Palm Tree!*​





For me, a very big part of a tour is the sense of exploration. I don't want to know every last thing about where I'm going….. I want to find them out - for better or worse.
A city of this size, of this character? I'd never explore it all! Every road is an adventure whether it's the traffic, the potholes, the roots of trees showing their authority or the dogs - not chasing me, but travelling with their bosses. There's a bazillion places to eat and of course, all the aromas they create. There are parks, explosions of green, around so many corners so that one moment I'm battling traffic and the next, I'm sailing under birdsong.

*Early morning - light, shade and if you listen…..birds!*​





An aspect of touring that I cherish is the welcome a chap, carting his gear around on a bike, receives in these "strange" places. People are friendly, welcoming, approachable and approaching, curious, full of help and praise. Perhaps it's wrong to admit it, but at times their envy does give me a little tingle of satisfaction.😊
I don't think I've ever been to a place as friendly, as welcoming. It's still "El País de las Sonrisas". You don't need a bike and gear to feel welcome, you just need a pulse!
This morning, stocking up on a few bits and pieces in a local Oxxo, I dropped my change and after fumbling and fustering finally cleared the counter. I turned around to the man behind me, muscled, tatooed and a prime casting candidate for a Cartel enforcer, apologised for the delay and was rewarded with a smile that reached past the ends of his face mask and a tilt of the head to say no problem.
On the bike, slow down, let a pedestrian cross and brace myself. The guys will nod and say "gracias", but the ladies? They beam.
This has happened so many times that I've often thought that a great pick-me-up is available on a bad day. Just choose a busy street with lots of pedestrians, cycle down, apply the brakes and learn, no feel, what the word beam _actually_ means. There's a warmth that puts the sun in the halfpenny place.

*There's never a dull moment on the bike! Trust me, helmets are good!*​





As a lazy bugger, I enjoy the more natural cycle that my life has on a bike. Abed with the sunset, awake with the dawn. A full day.
These days it gets cold at night so the most comfortable place for me is in bed. That means most mornings I'm up before the sun and that feeling is fabulous! A whole day stretching out in front of me, and like on the road, I never really can be sure what's going to happen.

Finally, there's that whole "away from it all" feeling. The usual humdrum of daily life gets left behind, priorities become simple, survivalist in nature, and immensely satisfying. Please don't try to tell me that paying the phone bill, getting the dishwasher fixed or finding the best car parking spot outside the supermarket on a Friday evening in winter compares to finally landing in that little campsite, setting up your tent and crawling inside just as the heavens open!
OK, I can't really recreate that rooted here as I am, but there's a simplicity to life here that I find completely charming.
The problems that I face here are pretty basic in nature. Avoid earthquakes, always have water on hand (the water in the building is delivered by truck) and wandering around on the bike can be like a primitive survival experience, although fun, and do not get caught in the rain during the rainy season!
The climate, the architecture, the abundance of nature and of course the people (and their dogs!) are all powerful reminders that I am in a different world to what I am used to. Inspiration, therefore, to reset years of habit and choose to live a simpler life than before.

*Not everything is shiny and new or preserved from Colonial times. I hummed and hawed about heading down here but in the end cycled slowly down. Smiles. Nothing but smiles. The closest thing to a problem I had was when I wanted to wait to let a woman finish washing the bit of street outside her door and she just wanted me on my way.*​





I could conceivably "tour" here for evermore and not miss a thing about touring!

On different bike trips there have always been a few special places, some location, where the planets just seem to line up and cast a sense of bliss. In my case there's no common link between them, other than the feeling. It might be on some big highway in Tennessee, the wind and rain buffeting me, a roadside café in Spain that serves sweets as tapas (jellybeans! Yum!) that is so relaxing it leads to an afternoon of card playing rather than cycling, sitting in a beergarden in southern Germany savouring a schnitzel, a cold beer comfortably terrified before setting off on my first ever bike adventure, how Vienna seduced me when I arrived exhausted, overheated, frustrated and starving or many dozens more. The thing is, this city is chock full of these "places". My local park, which I have visited almost daily since June is still one of these places that casts magic. Every. Single. Time.

*A park bench! With trees! And look across the road - there's enough detail in that building to keep me amused for ages…..*​





I've put some serious thought into staying put here. If I can be as happy as I am, barely knowing a soul, how much better could it be when I have some friends, a social life, maybe a señorita? I've even thought about what I could do to make a living and none of them involve teaching English

However, there is still a wanderlust in me. There's much more to see and experience. A bit like when I started this little adventure there's a part of me that will regret not giving it a shot.
I think the biggest problem I'll face is the habit I've developed of just following my nose. I've lost count of the times I've set off to go to A, only to be distracted, wander off course and end up at Z. Destinations have become more than a little irrelevant. Time even more so. It's amazing how many times I've plonked myself down, normally in a park, and something or someone will "happen". I just have to sit and wait.
Not being bothered to reach a destination and having been conditioned to sit and watch? That'll be a challenge on a bike tour!

*A park. What you can't see is the spaghetti looping superhighway beside it. Early in the morning this one is full of pro dog walkers and their charges. They'll take a section, let the dogs loose …… and nothing bad happens! *​





_*This post has been inspired by three early morning visits to the Immigration offices. Each time it's "Come back next week" and a smile. I know I could check online for updates but an early morning bike ride? Here it's feckin' fantastic! Cold, bright morning sun, dark, cold shadows, traffic barrelling down some streets, others owned by birds singing their morning joy; it's cycling,
Jim, but not as we know it!
For a bike tourist I'm a lazy sod so only an obligation will have me out that early. They can postpone their official duties for as long as they want as far as I'm concerned!_

México? It's feckin' great!

*Heading downtown!*​






Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (24 Jan 2021)

Sunday Whatever……..

Kris Kristofferson growls that "there's something about a Sunday that makes a body feel alone". I'd tend to hum along with him in that.
Sunday starts out as the loneliest day of the week. Sunday mornings are for sharing, for long, lazy breakfasts, for listening to the radio, reading the paper, chatting. Preferably with someone soft and cuddly.

Without a feckin' global Pandemic, Sunday mornings in México City might just be the best Sunday mornings anywhere. If we forget about the rainy season, there's no shortage of parks (with tables) to retire to after picking up a breakfast to go. For very little money, a takeaway breakfast can be picked up. Eggs, bacon, juice, coffee, bread. 
Some places are take out only (non-pandemic related), others have dine in options. But when the alternative is the park and all that it offers, then the park is king!






These days, wintertime, the mornings are fresh and clear. The sun peeks over the tops of buildings at about 7am. The trick with a bit of loneliness is to confront it full on, not to sit, stew and let it fester. Throw on a fleece and go for a walk. Get out into the city and let it work it's magic.

It's nippy and at that time of the morning you'd want to move quickly to warm up. Five to ten minutes of brisk walking and that job's done. I'm warm and off the beaten track - or at least as off the beaten track as I can be in this huge, sprawling city.

At that time of the morning, the birds are waking up. And "singing". I use inverted commas because the quality of the "singing" is subjective! Sometimes it's horrendous! It's strange how the birds gather only in certain trees, most sitting silent, an odd one full of noise.

The morning sun in the trees is something to behold, though. The treetops gleaming in the glow, the branches and trunks dark shadows - a delightful and eye-catching contrast of bright and dark.






The big roads, the arteries leading in and out of this giant heart of a city are never quiet, but on a Sunday morning, as quiet as they'll ever be. A small burst of traffic when a light goes green then an empty five lane highway for me to wander across or maybe take a photo. The odd light breaker pulls well over out of my way, normally smiling or waving at the feckin' eejit in the road taking a photo.

*I think Petrolheads would like this place!*​





The food places, be they restaurants, take out or little more than a folding table on the path beside a big junction are getting ready to open. It makes no difference to style or standard, every single one starts by sweeping the street. A little sprinkling of water to stop the dust rising and the brushes gather up all the debris, leaves and dust since yesterday. The brushes are usually homemade, a pole with a bunch of twigs wrapped and secured at the end. Witches' brooms! Even that early in the morning the smiles are on speed-dial. Push the right button and connection is made.

The bin men are out too. They work seven days a week, but a Sunday is a great day for observing them at their work. That's a subject that requires a post all to itself.

There's a few early dog walkers, their charges bundles of curious energy after being cooped up all night. 
And a handful of early morning joggers. Saturday is the big day for early morning jogging - Sunday's for rest!
*A tree! Outstanding in its field*​





By now, the sun is higher and more powerful and it makes itself felt. Out of the shade, I can feel the sun on any parts of exposed skin - not a lot because of a facemask - but more noticeably I feel it's absence when I step into the shade again. A distinct chill. As the day progresses it becomes more and more powerful, the shadows less and less frequent. 

It's around this time that a peculiar Sunday morning phenomenon is noticeable - dog chats!

It appears that a lot of folks share my idea of a lazy Sunday morning - get up, put the dog out on the balcony or flat roof and go back to bed. The dogs may be missing out on some exercise, but not socially. They chat with each other! Yaps, little barks fill tbe air. They don't have to see each other - they can hear each other. In fairness, it's not continuous, nor particularly loud. Nobody seems to mind. And for a guy wandering around below them? They don't even notice him! It may not be a typical Sunday choir, but it's beautiful music to my ears. 

There's one group of dog owners who do get out early, though. Behind the historic Monastery of Churubusco there's a small park where every Sunday morning a group of dog owners gather, set up a table or two and share coffee and food while their dogs play together! It's a lovely sight! The Sunday before Christmas they seemed to be having presentations and some of the dogs were dressed up for the season! Photos of the dogs were impossible due to the constant moving, chasing and dust, but there was an atmosphere in the air that just said "Christmas".

*I love this section of this street! The colours!*​





The Churches (when they're open) are interesting. Queues can form before Mass and temperatures are taken and alcohol gel dispensed before people take their place in socially distanced pews. 
Some Churches set up speakers outside, place plastic chairs and increase their occupancy. This allows people to bring their dogs with them! Really! 
On the Plaza outside the Church on the Avenida Francisco Sosa a food stall is set up, a man takes over an area to display and sell jigsaws. In the corner away from the Church a group of women (usually) do a fitness program to some very danceable music - between Masses.
There's a Church on the far edge of Coyocán that has been closed due to a previous earthquake so Mass there is in a marquee beside the closed Church.

*The Marquee Church. I can't put my finger on it but it always makes me sad.*​





Now, at noonish the parks are really coming to life! Sunday is definitely "Family Day" and kids are at the centre. 
In my local park the kids can get on a trampoline, rent a battery powered car, paint blank moulds of all kinds of figures, paint all kinds of intricate designs on glass as well as buy all kinds of cheap toys. By far and above the most popular are bubble blowers! The idea is ancient, the packaging is varied, all kinds of crazy shapes, but it's really just water, a little washing up liquid and a bit of lungpower. Kids (of all ages!) love them! Bubbles everywhere! Even fun for the dogs! The older ones might be used to them, but the pups? The looks of shock and confusion on their young faces when they "catch" one is hilarious.
The battery powered cars deserve special mention. They're old and battered, don't go terribly fast, weave around all over the place but the kids love them! There are little crashes - it's amazing how with so much space they can find a kerb - but never a problem with a dog or people. Just a part of the park.
Now that it's after Christmas, there are also lots of junior rollerbladers, roller skaters and cyclists. Most of the gear is Chinese, bright and probably not very durable. The bikes tend to be bigger than the kids - room to grow. For the smaller kids the stabilisers are already gone, the bigger kids are already flying around. Mam and Dad are normally around, as are lots of aunts, uncles and cousins. In a different park laps are easier to do so parents sit and eat, pausing to give the kids a cheer as they fly past, then back to another 5 minutes of adult time. 
Every park has a playground for the kids. Unfortunately, they have all been sealed off since I arrived here as part of the Covid regulations. The only time I've seen the tape breached was on the weekend of the Día de Muertos. That weekend, every park had kids playing behind the tape. Not before and not since have I witnessed the same. 

*The colours!*​





The kid free folks are out and about too. Shopping is a big pastime, split between the more economical markets, really just collections of stalls and the far more expensive big brand malls. In both you can get a taco or a burger, just that one place will cost five times as much as the other. 
*Downtown. I love the reflections!*​





Paved areas around monuments and statues (there are a lot of them!) that have not been taped off are taken over by different groups. The cool kids hang out with their skateboards, someone, sometimes with a speaker, will be ranting against the Government, another area people will be doing training for boxing or kickboxing (very popular here with both sexes), often with rollerblade trainees wobbling around them. Another one will have the BMXers, pulling wheelies, doing jumps, crashing, falling but never bothering anyone else. 
Everyone just gets along.

Groups meet in cafés, in parks, around benches. Food is often the central focus and why not with so many stalls to choose from. I'm not sure if public drinking is illegal (I think not) but I've yet to encounter any anti-social, drink induced behaviour. Coke (Coca Cola!) seems to be the national drink. 
I have no idea what they're called - the rear axle extensions that I remember being on BMX bikes - but they're quite common here. He rides, she stands! What a great way to get around!

Another feature of a Sunday is the wandering minstrels. Musicians, either solo or as a band walking around playing, and collecting some pesos. The quality varies. Greatly! But the ability to extract money is highly developed! It may be a Brass trio, a solo trumpeter, or a guitarist, often accompanied by dedicated money collectors. On streets with people they'll do well. On deserted streets they'll ring every doorbell, bang on every gate to claim their due! On a balcony? They always have a big hat to receive dropped money!
One night I was treated to two guys who set up a speaker under a multistorey apartment block. They took turns playing and singing (one very good, one "God Bless Him, he tries") and people came out on to their balconies to listen, dance and sing along. I watched a guy several floors up come out and listen. Then he went in and got a drink. Eventually he went back inside, grabbed a chair and the bottle and settled down for the night! 
What I didn't realise until later was that the building on the opposite side of the road (behind me) had full balconies too! 

At this time Covid is ravaging the place. Cemeteries cannot cope with the demand, oxygen and especially oxygen tanks, are in short supply, a death wreath with a handwritten note on a door is not an uncommon sight. Yet people still smile.

*When the sun is hottest, these places are so cool and calming. There are busy streets on each side but they are as nothing......*​





By now the sun is sinking and the light casts its magic everywhere. The shadows return and the temperature starts to drop. Time to wander home from wherever I find myself. This fabulous city has done its job.

*CrazyBeautiful*​






*This post has been put together from Sunday observations over several months at varying levels of lockdown. A regular, virus free Sunday must be a thing to behold!


View: https://youtu.be/gPGuUHNT7U4



Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jan 2021)

Day whatever…….

Bless me, Father, for I have sinned…..

I ate German food today!*

Yes, in a city overflowing with fabulous, local food I happened across a place called "Bier & Wurst" and I wobbled, faltered and crumbled!

I'd gone off wandering, no destination in mind, just wanting to soak up the late afternoon sun. I'm getting quite good at judging windspeed and direction and using that information to avoid the tempting aromas on the wind that seem to be ever present in this metropolis, but "Bier & Wurst"? In a former life I'd drive to Cologne, get some currywurst and sit with my legs dangling over the mighty Rhine. Then drive home again. 

In the run up to Christmas, Germany had been on my mind. December 2020 was the second year in a row that I'd be missing a German Christmas Market. That hadn't happened in the last 20 odd years.

If you've never been, you should! The cold, the gluhwein, the food! Oh the food!!! The decorations. The people singing! Oh the food! And the gluhwein! Have I mentioned the food? And the delicious, hot, rich wine?
And the atmosphere! That's when Christmas really starts in my world.
(Tourist tip: Try to go midweek, I find the atmosphere better).

So, there I am walking down the central island on a busy street, sun is shining, traffic is loco, palm trees around me and I find myself thinking of Germany. 
As is so typical for me here, I wasn't even meant to have been there. I'd turned off the street I was on because the light was shining on a colourful tree and I wanted to get closer.

Then I saw the place and thought "Oh", and nothing else. I'd stopped, some instinctive, primitive, pavlovian response to "bier & wurst". My brain simply stopped operating on any kind of an intellectual level. I moved a couple of steps but my legs stopped again.
A scan revealed an empty restaurant with a couple of tables outside. Normally, an empty restaurant can be like a flashing warning light "there's a reason it's empty", but in Covid times, it's not a bad thing. However, outside tables are a must for me, generally, and especially these days. I'm with Julian, Dick, Anne & George (Timmy the dog never offered an opinion) - food eaten outdoors always tastes better! 

Then I saw a metal advertising board for the Carolus brewery in Belgium. Those things are rarer than hen's teeth! Someone has contacts!
So, before my head had processed things fully my legs were pulling me across the road. 

No menus in use - I had to go online to see the menu but I'd no hesitation in ordering a dunkel weizen while figuring out the technology. 

They say that smell is a great trigger of memories. I half filled my glass with Munich's finest and took a deep, deep draft of it down into my lungs and that heady, slightly bitter, partly roasted aroma had me floating around Germany, Austria even parts of France and Italy. 

I like beer! The best beers are the ones you've cycled far for or the ones with good friends. For this one I'd been wandering on foot and I was alone. With trepidation I lifted the glass to my lips. 
Aaaah! That's a taste I remember!

*Such an intimidating sign! Such a wonderful country!*​





I ordered a Currywurst and pommes frites. I wasn't expecting much, but since I tend to be lucky in these situations the food matched the beer. 
I could have been sitting in my favourite beer garden in Cologne near the chocolate factory, or at the kiosk in Koblenz sitting on a plastic chair as the whole world busies by, sitting at an outdoor restaurant looking at Lorelei's point and the barges floating up and down the Rhine. Or any of the many, many places I've savoured a currywurst and a cold beer in Germany. 
The "pommes frites" were neither chips/french fries which the name suggested nor bratkartoffeln. Instead they were paper thin slices of potato, individually seasoned with thyme, slowly fried in oil and served soft, but not soggy. A surprisingly good and sophisticated accompaniment. 
But the sauce? Now, this was something else! Normally, I'd expect a curry flavoured ketchup of variable quality, but this is México! The curry flavour ketchup was just a base - there was diced tomato, onion, and something else I couldn't put my finger on! Fabulous!
The sausage itself was ok. It lacked a little seasoning (or my palate is becoming more local) and a little consistency, but, hey, this is México! I cannot complain!

Truth be told, it was so good I couldn't resist ordering a bratwurst. Again I wasn't disappointed! Served simply, with a piece of baguette sandwiching the middle third and some tangy, bitter sauerkraut.

I've always got my kindle on me for when I stop, or I'll take out my phone and write up a few observations. Not today! I sat there, grinning like a loon, savouring every bite, every sip and travelling in my head. 

*Put me beside water, especially a river with traffic and I will stop frequently. Germany taught me to always carry an extra cup to share my coffee and I have had some wonderful encounters along the Rhine. 
The barges are so interesting! Often cars hint at the origin, dogs are common.*​





I love Germany! Mein Gott the bureaucracy can drive me demented at times. And the Germans do have their ways! 

I remember many years ago arriving in Munich on the train after a really hard working Christmas & New Year. My girlfriend & I were exhausted and had fecked off for a few days.
On arrival, we hit the tourist office in the station and met Frau Germany!
"Hello, we'd like to book a nice hotel to relax for a few days please"
"What is the budget?"
"That really doesn't matter. We have no idea of prices, we have done no research. Can you make a suggestion or two, please?"
"What is the budget?"
"We don't mind. We just want to rest and relax"
"What is the budget?"
And on it went. And on. And on. 
I couldn't take anymore, went outside, found a friendly concierge and booked one night into a hotel beside the station.
He understood when I asked him to recommend a nice place for food and a beer, sending us off wandering the back streets to a lovely little bar with friendly locals, good beer and a mighty schnitzel!
Next morning, back to the Tourist office. Different lady, same story! There was a system and it wouldn't bend! No budget? No help!
Frustrated beyond belief, I wandered up to the Deutsche Bahn (train) counter and approached the friendliest looking chap.
"If your boss gave you three days off right now, where would you go?"
He looked at me for a moment and said "Garmisch Partenkirchen".
"Two tickets, please!"
I can still see the half shocked, half amused look on his face when my next question was "where exactly is this Garmisch place? Is it far away?"
Garmisch was great! Right outside the station was a man selling gluhwein! Fortified, we hit the tourist office and got a comfy, lazy hotel.

*Taken in France, that little river runs to the Rhine and Germany.*​





Damn! But they can be formal!
However, arm yourself with an emotional chisel and hammer and spend a bit of time hacking at that outer shell and you'll soon find a warm, friendly person underneath. 
Germans make friends for life. Through thick, thin and anything else they are there.

*This picture is taken in Austria, but if my sense of direction is correct (and it likely isn't!) that's Germany on the other side of the lake.*​





Go to a German forest and all those Grimm tales come to life. I'd advocate to anyone to go to a forest in Germany with a copy of that book and read. You start reading the story and little by little you end up _in_ the story. If it's an unsanitised version you may not want to stay after dark! 
_*It's a bugbear of mine. So many of the Grimm tales have been soaked in detergent, cleaned, washed, laundered, softened, perfumed and neatly folded that they bear little relation to the tales in their "original" peasant smock formats. Some of the stories are vividly graphic, terrifying and prove that some people are just downright nasty! _

*The Land of Fairytales!*​





Go along a river outside any big town or city and you'll pass little groups passing an afternoon peacefully, a few beers, maybe a little fire and some food. The most disturbing thing that may happen is that some of them may be naked! And more often than not every bit of rubbish is removed.

*Koblenz*
_*I have many happy memories of Koblenz. There are cable cars, a magnificent castle and of course the Rhine! There are few things better than stopping and having a (cyclist's!) snack and watching the world roll on by. I vividly recall watching a small cruiser battle the flooding, surging, brown, churning river and make incredibly slow progress in less than optimal weather. It seemed like I was watching a battle for survival.*_
*And a brief mention for the time I accidentally took the wrong river and instead of heading North and home to NL I was heading for France .*​





And there's this embarrassing tale for a cycle traveller. On my first ever self-supported tour (in Germany) I had my first puncture as an adult. Did I have a patch kit? No! Sure I wouldn't have known what to do with one! I had loads of books, though! Because I'm bloody lucky I came across a bike sales/rental and repair place operating out of a small farm in the middle of nowhere.
The man, German, was more than a little surprised that a bike complete with heavy panniers (and a tiger!) was under the control of a complete loon. My boundless optimism was an alien concept to him, but he kindly offered me the chance to learn how to fix a puncture. Every single step was explained, demonstrated slowly and with only the smallest feelings of humiliation on my behalf. 
We searched the tyre for the source (a thorn) and he was at pains to explain how important it was to seek out the source.
In the end he only wanted to charge me for a puncture repair kit (which I was now qualified to use!) We fought over a tip! 

*The longest stretch of rain riding I ever did was in Germany! 5 days in a row!*​





*Worms! (Interesting detail: My Arkel handlebar bag, a gift from dear friends has space for maps. On this particular trip it contained song lyrics)*​





_*Munich*_​





So, there I was sitting at a little table on a street in México city thinking of Germany.
It was only on the way home that the thought struck me. Someday, maybe I'll be far, far away from this great city but maybe, just maybe, I'll be able to get some food, close my eyes and visit whenever I want. 






*Today was actually back in October

Chat away!
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## HobbesOnTour (6 Feb 2021)

Doggy Day Whatever.... Again!

The good news is that my doggy encounters are slowly increasing. I'm guessing I'm starting to smell less like a foreigner and more like a local! All that rice and beans I'm eating has unexpected advantages!

I saw something online about ways to "hack" our happiness chemicals and playing with a dog is in there!

Writing, recording and remembering them helps too, so here's another doggy post! 

*I found this helpful in these troublesome times*​





I didn't notice the King of the park at first, my attention was absorbed by two usurpers. A man was struggling to control them with heavy chains for leads as they tried to show themselves as the dominant dogs of the park. 
One was a Boxer, lean and young with a vibrant, healthy coat of brown glowing with just a hint of orange. His "brother" was of undetermined breed (to me), slightly smaller, but with the same type of coat. What made me think of brothers (half brothers?) was the fact that both their coats had a few randomly scattered black patches, thumbprint size, that only highlighted the glow from their coats.
These were fine specimens of dog. Unfortunately, they seemed to know it or perhaps, like some people, they had no idea, felt inferior so were throwing their weight around in every direction. That little fluffy dog over there? Let's get him! That Old English Sheepdog with the clipped coat way over there? Let's show our scorn by barking wildly! Cute dogs suck!!

And so they moved through the park, a pair of shark fins cutting through the tranquil surface of the park, their presence noted and avoided by most. It's not that boisterous dogs are a rare sight (or sound) in the park, it's that there was a coldness to this pair that was unusual. It seemed like a cold wind was blowing through the park. Dogs leap at each other all the time but with a playful intent that is clear to read. The worst that can happen is a tangling of leads! These guys were too cool to be able to read their intentions. 

Then they met the King, or more appropriately, the King introduced himself to them the way I'd imagine a real King would - He stood and waited for them to see him. Then, realising that they were the naked emperors, they roared to hide their shame.

The King was in the park with his Boss, an older man who knew he had something special on his hands. 
The King was a German Shepherd, huge, a typical coat, but the clear definition of his brown and black colouring seemed to suggest that he had his own team of designers and dressers. He was immaculate. His ears stood straight up, curious, but it was his paws that really marked him out - they were huge, lion paws. Thankfully he showed no sign of the hip problems that can plague the breed. He stood proud, and straight, the very definition of canine royalty.
His poor Boss was trying to entertain him by throwing sticks. The King had standards. If the stick was too small he sniffed disparagingly, looked at his boss with his large, deep eyes and wandered off. A larger stick, or more accurately, a small log, would hold his interest longer and he would chase it, striding gracefully, leaping low hedges like he had invisible wings until he had it in his mouth. But returning it to his Boss? Ha! That was beneath him! Once "caught", shown who was the King, he was happy to drop the little log and wait expectantly for his elderly boss to pick up another and play the game again. 

*I'm clearly not a proper cycle tourist as my load only gets larger! This is Frida, mi compañera de viaje mexicana! Mazi is too big to be lugging about all the time and Frida is petite enough to fit in my handlebar bag. *​





It was the non stop braggadocio from the terrible twins that distracted him. He paused, standing regally and looked at them. Something must have flowed out of him because without moving, without making a noise, the twins sensed him, simultaneously veered in his direction (pulling their boss with them) and roared their challenge. 

The King took it all in his stride, standing, staring and taking it all in. Then he bounded down towards them, stopping on one side of a low hedge, his tail wagging cautiously but generously towards the pretenders. It was his eyes, though, that proved to me he was the King - they were placed firmly on the twins' struggling boss, ignoring the barking, explosive pair trying to pull off his arms. "Give me a sign", he was saying, "just a nod and we'll play!". His wagging tail, his head confidently held, standing as tall as he could on his side of the hedge (can dogs stand on their tippy toes?) was a picture of royalty. The respect he showed the terrible pair's boss was in clear contrast to the respect they showed him. 
Like bullies they were trying to loudly intimidate the King. The only response they received was a confused tilt of the head, eyes still boring into the Boss as if to say "Why are you letting them say such things? I just want to be friends". 

*Folks, if you've never had a Mexican hot chocolate you are missing out!!! That little jug is full of rich, thick, slightly sweet chocolate that gets added to a big bowl of milk! If you're smarter than me, you won't need to order a second one before figuring out that your little finger will fit in the jug!*​





It was a powerful scene, significant because such a scene is so rare here. It lasted only seconds but time seemed to stand still. I was aware of their Boss trying to pull them away but that only seemed to excite them more. Then the King's boss called him and despite his disdain for the poor stick selection skills of the old man he immediately turned and ran back to continue their one sided game. Not once did he look back at the troublesome two who immediately tried to cover up their humiliation by ganging up on a well groomed poodle. In fairness, they weren't vicious or mean, just rough and lacking social skills. The poodle wasn't taking it!

*Getting Frida used to being on the road*​





It was the first day after the Christmas lockdown that Alex (my taco guy) was able to use his tables. I'd made a point of getting take out tacos during the lockdown. Poor man, his business was devastated. 
So there I am, grinning like a loon, basking in a post T-bone glow, sipping my solitary beer when a woman walks by with an adolescent bull terrier on a lead. He looks me right in the eye, sees what he wants to see and lunges at me! I'm already twisting in my chair and meet him head on. The dogs love to wrestle here and that suits me down to the ground! His boss stopped for a moment and started offering her apologies but trailed off as there was clearly a pair of us in it!
We wrestled for less than a minute but it was great fun! He gently took my hand into his mouth (whoah!! They are some very sharp teeth!) and trotted obediently away when his boss had enough, looking back as if to remember me so we can have a rematch. Fine by me!

*She seems to be doing fine!*​





I'm intrigued by the sheer number of dogs trotting around with bikes. They're street smart, fit and totally unphased by all that a bike trip in this glorious city throws up. What amazes me is the training process. How do you go about training a dog to trot beside you, often leadless and to follow every cue?
Well, one evening, in the doggy section of the park, there's a guy zipping around on his 29er MTB amongst all the dogs with a collie pup running beside him.
Now here's the thing. It's evening so the area is filled with dogs of all breeds, shapes and sizes and not a one of them pays the slightest attention to the biker. And here's another; Not a single human shows any sign of being bothered by the guy on the mountain bike either.
I'm standing at the fence delighted to be seeing this. The pup is working hard to keep up, isn't being distracted by all the doggy fun going on around him and is sitting consistently behind and to one side of his boss' rotating right foot. The cyclist is weaving left and right and pup is following smoothly.
Then they leave the enclosure and boss starts to pedal off. It was like he'd brought a different pup out because now the pup was uncontrollable, running hither and tither, jumping up on his leg and just generally looking to have some fun time! It seemed the doggy enclosure was for "work", the rest of the park for fun!

*Pope John Paul II (a very popular figure here) gets to meet Frida*​





Every now and then I notice something that stops me dead and makes me wonder just what makes this place so different.
On one of my Navigate by Park days, I ended up spying a really funny scene. An older boss lady standing beside a tree and letting the squirrels exercise one of her dogs!
He was a fine expression of a fighting dog, sleek, a brownish grey colour, young, but fully grown. But he had a bit of cat in him because he kept throwing himself at a tree! Squirrels! There was a group of five or six up there and he wanted them! (Only once before have I seen a dog chase a squirrel. Here, all the animals seem to live in peace with each other!)
He was running laps around the tree, jumping regularly. After a few laps of the tree he'd run away from the tree, do a lap of a part of the park and then fly back towards the tree, leaping up, trying to grab onto the trunk, failing, then jumping back onto the ground. More laps of the tree!
He was panting heavily, his Boss standing to one side, obviously used to this scene, his doggy buddy sitting alertly, back to the tree and ignoring all the antics going on around him.
It was very entertaining! He had no hope, but God Bless Him he never gave up! Other than his panting there wasn't a sound. No barking. No growling.
I couldn't figure out if the squirrels were teasing him or ignoring him and I wondered which was the worst?
His boss had a bottle of water and a little plastic bowl that he guzzled from regularly before returning to the fray. 
So there I am, astride the bike, watching this scene when a woman pushing a little fella on a little plastic truck pulls up to watch the scene too. She's telling the little fella what's going on and pointing out the squirrels. He can't be more than 3 years old so all the world amazes him.
The world's most dedicated squirrel hunter zips past them on his regular "lull those feckin' squirrels into a false sense of security" lap and that's when it hit me. This is what I categorise in my head as a "fighting dog" and mother is not in the slightest bit perturbed as he races within touching distance, son is delighted and laughing and pretty much nobody else in the park is bothered! 
What an unusual sight where I'm from!
When it was time to go, his buddy, an older dog with a bit of bloodhound in him ran a half lap of the park, presumably getting his exercise, then trotted out with BossLady. Squirrel Hunter trotted beside her too, breaking away for another couple of runs at the tree until she hit the pavement. Then he sat on her heel and never once looked back.

*Squirrel Hunter is racing elsewhere in the park, his buddy is sitting patiently, the couple are practising kick boxing (and not phased by the ocassional dog zipping right past them and the squirrels are in the tree.*​





At first glance I was confused. At second glance I was dumbfounded. Then I thought I was seeing something terribly selfish, humiliating and bordering on cruelty. There, dodging in and out between the legs of various people, chairs and tables, on a little terras on the side of the road was a well clipped Poodle (or Poodle-like) whose outsized, floppy ears had been dyed pink!
It took me some moments to figure out just what I was seeing, and my mind moved to judgement. Cruel, humiliating, purely for human amusement were the things going through my head. 
But then I watched that little, freaky dog and things started to change. His family were large in number and young in age. They adored him, giving him lots of attention even as they ate. Other diners were charmed and as he ran around lapping up all the attention on offer I realised that he's a dog - he doesn't have a clue about the suitability or not of pink ears. And he definitely looked cute!

*It may not be clear from this angle, but that magnificent building is tilting backwards and sinking into the ground!*​





One day, closer to the centre, at the same little lake that I'd seen the Husky and Shepherd playing, there's a little family of Mamá, Papá, little girl unsteady on her feet, a black and white Collie and a flat-faced pug. 
Mamá has a ball and a plastic ball launcher. Whoooooooosh! Into the little lake and Collie immediately leaps the low wall and into the water. Pug hops onto the wall but baulks at going further. 
And again.
Next ball is along the ground to give pug a fighting chance!
Then back to the water. Except this time the ball hits the wall and flies backwards and across the road! Both dogs set off in hot pursuit until with one command they stop dead. Seizing my chance I hop across the road and grab the ball. Papá voices his thanks and reaches for the ball. Hell no! I have two dogs looking at me like I'm the centre of their world! I feint, left, then right, eventually lob the ball high into the air and savour the sight of Collie leaping the wall into the water.

*The Cathedral of the Virgin of Guadalupe is delighted to welcome Frida*​





Finally, one evening at the edge of my local park an elderly gentleman stops to talk to a young lady. He has a Husky, leadless, who obediently stops. She has, what I refer to as a "handbag" dog, small, dainty and with something of the rat about it. This little chap (or lady) is on a lead and not as tranquil as the husky. Up on its hindlegs, it introduces itself to Husky by clamping his front two paws on the bigger, calmer dog's snout. I can see Husky flinch but the fireworks I was expecting never came. Husky took it all in its stride. 

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2021)

Day whatever….

I am reading a book about a guy who came up with a plan to pack in his job and cycle from the US to Patagonia when he turned 30.
He had a popular Instagram account and subsequently wrote a book about his travels.
His story is that of the rank outsider*, the complete newbie and I tend to like those types of stories. In my head, the inspiration is far more important than the "knowledge". Don't get me wrong, the knowledge, the experience, the gear are all important. But without the inspiration they count for naught, or at least, very little.
I have all the information in the world on a device that fits in my pocket. That same device will let me buy pretty much anything I want, pretty much anywhere.
I don't need info. I need inspiration.

*Sometimes I used to cycle out the road and cross an Internatiinal Border*​





*He's not quite a rank outsider. His parents wrote a famous travel book together, others separately and were regular contributors to National Geographic. I can easily imagine a lot of doors swung open easier for him than others.

So this guy is in México and starts talking about how much information he has gleaned from blogs. This is well into the book and up to this point he hasn't mentioned any prep that he's done. You'd be forgiven for thinking that he bought his bike, any bike will do, stocked up at REI (U.S. sports chain) and hit the road.
But he gives zero credit to any sources for his information. Want the address of a trendy coffee shop? No problem. Want an idea of where he got the info? Not a hope!
Not for the first time reading the book I had to fight the urge to throw my Kindle against the wall! (At one stage he compared his Instagram account to Darwin's Diaries and the writings of John Steinbeck. As a huge fan of Steinbeck that was almost a comparison too far!!).
I really, really dislike the writers of blogs and the like that don't honestly outline the preparations they undertook and reserve a special level of dislike for those that mention vague sources without giving credit. Use someone's work? Give them some credit!

So, there I was, lying on my smug bed, basking in an aura of smugness, breathing pure, smug air when I was more than just a little bit irritated at the thought that I may well fall into the latter category.

I'll try to rectify that now.

*Dawn on the French Spanish border. That day I joined hundreds of walking Pilgrims, nearly all starting their journey to Santiago de Compostela. 
Full of more inspiration than sense I dragged my bike along the walker's path. *​





CGOAB was the first online source of inspiration I had found. I was amazed to discover that this cycle touring thing was a big deal!
Living in NL I saw lots of bikes with Panniers but I also saw lots of joggers and vegan restaurants - none of these things spoke to me and therefore never really figured in my consciousness.
I had my first tour (supported) done, my first unsupported tour done (with Hobbes!) and I was starving for more!
The first journal I recall reading avidly was Chris Pountney's. Somewhere in the back of my mind I knew people had cycled around the world, but here was a chance to read a blow by blow account "Live from the Road", so to speak, even though I was far, far behind.
I stopped reading in Turkey, I believe, when he insisted on travelling down a mountain in winter snow despite the pleas of officials to wait a day or two for the poor conditions to improve. They'd be the very people who would either have to rescue him or find his body if something went wrong.
I stopped reading again after one of the Stans after he'd thrown a hissy fit about having to take a lift across a border (he was very anti car). Imagine! A frontier between countries having rules!
Later I resumed and stopped again when, spoiler alert! his girlfriend (non-native English speaker) developed an eye infection on a ship to the States and he refused to go in a cab with her to a medical centre on an island stop. (Cars, again!) He was well finished by the time I picked it up again but by then my heart wasn't in it. It was cycle touring, yes, but not to my taste. I respect the EFI crowd (Every F****** Inch), but it's not a style I'm comfortable with.
Later he published a book (actually two) didn't credit CGOAB at all (which I found to be very rude - he got a lot of help from the owner and members) and now his journal is gone.

I read many journals, some more memorable than others. I didn't really care where they were, so long as they were interesting. I absorbed things in a type of osmosis, not even realising that ideas were forming in my head. I was scratching an itch, but I was taking lots in too!
I had no time to tour, reading about it was the next best thing.
Probably the most important thing I took away from reading a variety of different journals was the sheer variety of ways there was to tour! There were the Round the World folk, the EFI folk, the ones who set out to ride massive distances per day (and packed accordingly) and the ones who hardly seemed to make progress at all!
There were people who planned every last detail to ones who followed their noses.
Some people were flexible on using other transport, for others that was a crime!
There were those on minimum budgets and those where money wasn't a concern.
Supported, group, solo, everything was represented.

*Yurts! Even in the flatlands on the far side of Nijmegen I can pitch my tent and pretend I'm far, far away!*​





Then I set off on a trip to Spain to cycle the Camino and back. I had time and I had a tent! I also had a kindle and that was a boon!

Other than CGOAB I wasn't looking at any online fora. Looking back I am convinced that that was a blessing! I had the "wrong" bike, no navigation skills, I hadn't followed a training program, I was unfit, overweight, a smoker, I was departing last minute….. I may never have gone if I had seen some of the "conventional" wisdom online.
I am convinced that if someone had suggested that I needed to "train" (and I had believed it!) I'd never have set off.

I remember reading about the Kontiki voyage in the early days of that trip. What inspiration! The casual bravery of people signing up, the cooperation and goodwill from all places, just the Adventure!
That led me on to the Brendan Voyage. Absolutely fabulous! Again, nothing whatsoever to do with cycling, but fantastic inspiration! I read Paul Kimmage's Rough Ride and developed a distaste for competitive cycling. I read several books on the fall of Lance Armstrong and developed that distaste further! 
It was cycling, but nothing like my cycling. No disrespect to any roadies reading this, but the idea of "measurement" appals me! I'm measured enough in normal day to day life.
I did tot up my daily mileage and I was very excited on reaching 1000km and again on arrival in Santiago and I have a photo with the cumulative kms. I can't recall it now, though. The distance was probably the least important aspect of the tour to me, afterwards, yet something that a lot of people obsess with.

In the South of France I started reading Tim Moore's "Spanish Steps", a fun, entertaining account of his Camino journey with a donkey.
(Yes, I was reading a lot! I could pull up anywhere and read for a while! Bliss!)
It is incredibly interesting to me, to read of a place and pass through at about the same time.

I read Maeve Binchy, an Irish journalist and author. She had great observational skills and her newspaper articles, especially, inspired me to pay more attention to what was going on around me. Anywhere there are people, there is drama, but especially so on the Camino. So much human emotion; hope, despair, pain, optimism, pessimism, fear and amazing bravery, incredible stupidity and wonderful intelligence shuffling towards a common goal. So many "rules", so much focus and so much distraction. Lots of judgement and lots of embracing the different. The Camino itself taught me feck all about cycle touring, but it taught me a hell of a lot about travelling. And humanity.

*The Camino, where I learned the heaviest baggage isn't what we carry on the bike or on our bikes, but within us.*​





I read Game of Thrones (not all of it!) and was inspired by fictitious journeys. I read of routes being "boring" and I suppose if I want to head off across Kansas I may well find it boring. My imagination is my natural defence to boredom. There's something about a long, straight road that says "Journey". A bend just says "Mystery around me". This is where inspiration plays such a huge part, for me. Having the bestest bike, the lightest gear won't take away the hard slog of some days' cycling - what's in my head does.

Honourable mention should go to Douglas Adams' "Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy" series, books I'd read as a kid. Now, older, not nearly as wiser as I thought I'd be, but with time and some amazing places to sit and absorb, that book opened up new worlds to my thoughts and the ways I processed them.

Yep, not a single book about bike touring!**

Back at home, in a bit of a post tour funk I started playing with Google Maps and compared how far I'd cycled with various places. I could have gone to St. Petersburg! (A dream of mine). Across Canada, the States! To me these were amazing distances!! Incredible! And I had already proven I could do that distance - and enjoy it! Inspiration right there! Quite by accident, it seemed, I'd become a bike tourist.

Fired up, I dove back into CGOAB and started reading voraciously. Just for fun, for inspiration. I'd read a bit of a journal, skip to another, without a real focus.
I think it was about this time that I discovered this place and another couple of fora. I was strictly a lurker, just reading.

At various times I went on a book reading splurge. Sometimes for inspiration, other times for more specific experiences in certain areas or routes.
I loved Ann Mustoe's first book "A Bike Ride: 12,000 miles around the world"
(not so much the second). There's an incredible bravery within, that is barely acknowledged. At the risk of provoking ire, she cemented my perception of a typical English School Mistress. No nonsense, matter of fact and capable of giving a terrifying scolding! It's worth remembering that she set off without the skills to fix a puncture (about the only thing I have in common with this great lady ). Her attitude carried her as far, if not further, than her bike.

Dervla Murphy.
An Irishwoman, who set off to India in the sixties based on an idea she had as a child? On a bike?? Feck me, but it doesn't get more inspirational than that! (It's been years since I read that, a battered second hand copy. (I've bought the electronic copy now to be reread and reinspired!)

The great thing about a Kindle is the ability to read a sample and to see if the book speaks to me. If not, I can move on. And I did! Frequently!

I was annoyed by Joe Kurmaskie who had adopted my image of a bike tourist being a Cowboy and the bike a horse! His style was entertaining, but sanitised, as I recall.

I enjoyed Steven Primrose-Smith's (occasional member of this parish) "No Place Like Home" as a touring book and "Hungry for Miles" as an observation on human behaviour.

Mention to Mike Vermeulen, a member of several fora who wrote an E-book. Not the most literary of efforts, but different tours in different continents in different manners (solo, supported group, a companion from the classifieds) throw up a lot of things to contemplate.

I also discovered YouTube but touring videos rarely do it for me. Too staged. I can appreciate and respect the work, effort and time that goes into them but I rarely can get over the idea that the trip is more about the recording than the trip. On Youtube, Johann is fabulous. I'm not sure if he gives the "whole" picture, but his manner, his style is just wonderful! His videophotography is wonderful! By far and above my favourite Youtuber.

I really like this guy for his simple, "this is not complicated" style.

This guy has bike touring and tent modification videos amongst his output.

One of the first Youtubers I found.

Other early viewing.

And I really dislike the Bike Touring Pro! "Pro" implies levels, standards, measurement. Superiority. Yuck!!!! And he and his gear is nearly always so neat and ordered! I watch a video of his and I have no idea if he did this trip because he wanted to do it or if he needed to expand his library and increase clicks.

Special mention to Unicyclist Ed, discovered last year.

In terms of videos, I preferred videos not related to cycling. Camping, gear reviews etc. were more my cup of tea, although I'd find myself bombarded with ads afterwards.

*I met this Dutch chap on the Camino. Despite having cycled from NL he was incredibly nervous about getting lost! I was amazed at his rigidity - X kms per day irrespective of weather, climbing or just the "feel" of a place. Equally, he couldn't comprehend my more easygoing ways.*​





I started following another CGOAB journal, an Irishman on another round the world trip. William Bennett. That was fabulous! Spoiler Alert! There is a fabulous description of him completing his circumnavigation in a place I happen to know well. His emotion was palpable, but the scene throws so much light onto so many aspects of long distance solo touring.

Jeff Kruys I found interesting. Very laid back, his own man, nothing seemed to faze him and he had reasons to be fazed!

There are parts of this that spoke to me then and still do. "Wicked Cool" maybe not so much, though.

I especially wanted to read about trips heading east from Europe. The more I read of China the less I wanted to go there which was interesting, because there's always a steady line of Dutch cycle tourists heading to China. Any mention of my ideas (I was living in NL) was met with "Oh I saw X on a video going to China….". I had the idea that I was often dismissed as a fantasist if I said I had no intention of ever making China a destination.

There are journals about Syria, before it descended into its current chaos. A lesson to seize the moment.
Here And Here

There were more than a few that I read for pure car-crash horrorAnd some I read that just horrified me. Honestly! The details some people feel necessary to include in a journal! There were lots of things to learn from the tours where there was little or no enjoyment!

I didn't read for information but little details stuck in my head, nonetheless.
There was the girl who on arriving in Canada discovered the maps on her gps were corrupted and wouldn't work. After 5 days of waiting for customer support she headed off anyway.
There was the account of a guy who met two Germans in South America with a busted Rohloff - their second of the trip. They had enough and were going home.
The legal difficulties in leaving a home for an extended period of time.
There was a guy doing a ride for charity. Suffering a lot of mechanicals he was really feeling pressure to stay upbeat for people following along.
There were more than a few accounts of stoning attacks by kids in Ethiopia. Different people had different ways of dealing with it. Educational.
The difficulty of communication in China rose up again and again.
Packs of wild dogs in Greece were a problem.
But more than anything I was inspired.
The kindnesses of random strangers.
The people who had bikes stolen, bought another and continued on.
The people who had far worse happen to them and found the wherewithal to continue.
The things people saw and experienced, but most importantly the way they felt.

There's a theory that in communication, people rarely remember what is said, they remember how it made them feel. The best accounts of journeys had me feeling. The ups, the downs. I celebrated their successes and suffered their failures.

Gradually the idea for this trip started to form. Initially a round the world trip.
Now I was reading for information and copying random notes and links into barely organised documents. Things like visa information, borders that don't allow bikes to cross. Vaccinations.
Things changed and I settled on the Americas.
Then things changed again and I settled on this trip.
For most of the nine months before departure I was laid up, flat on my back. Lots of time for reading.
I didn't really concentrate on the US at all, focusing instead on México, Central & South America. I would be able to get the ACA maps for the U.S.- what could go wrong? 

Andy Peat & The Shaws were good reads. Andy's girlfriend, a non-cyclist, was recovering from a broken foot - if she could do it, I could do it too!
The Shaws are a couple, she did most of the writing and was a relative newcomer to cycle-touring. Her thoughts came across as "live", genuine and I found them inspiring.

Timothy Tower is an interesting read! His level of detail is outstanding and must take a huge amount of discipline, time and effort to record it all.

The Kepinskis were interesting too.

I made a conscious effort not to prepare too much. I didn't want everything to be preordained.
I noted comments such as that the rail tracks at Guadalajara were dangerous, noting that the people who mentioned it all cross referenced each other! Perhaps, one person once had a bad experience and now no long distance cyclist will ever dally at those train tracks!
I noted that people had found places to camp along certain roads, or that the coast south of Mazatlán was humid and hot with very few options to turn off for higher, cooler country.
I noted enough to give me a bit of confidence but not enough to remove all elements of surprise. The first leg in México was straightforward - I could find no-one who had done it!
(I've since found someone who did a similar route in reverse).

I did sometimes look at other sources too. I'd a suspicious view of many monetised blogs (perhaps unfairly) and really disliked the format that is so common of latest post first. It makes it difficult to navigate.
I followed an Irish guy on a sponsored ride to China. (Can't find a link now) and again, riding a bike in China didn't sound too good. Also, the demands of social media seemed to encroach everywhere.

There was an interesting blog from a (former?) member of these boards. Steve/John Peel set off to Asia as a complete newbie, his strength of body and mind powering through issues.
I really, really enjoyed his blog for its honesty and fresh approach (as a non cyclist). His blog has pretty much disappeared and is used to sell supplements. I understand he has a book out.

Notable mention to Tom Allen. An interesting story. Set off with two friends, split up, meet girl early in trip. Leave, then return! Make a living from cycle touring.
He has some good information, not all of which I agree, but his style is persuasive and educational and not too evangelical and I find his story inspirational in the sense of a plan is an outline, good to get us off our asses, but the slavish following of one? Well, that's a bit restrictive.
To my way of thinking, for a plan made at home to be really useful, every last detail has to be researched, anticipated and understood. If that's the case, a trip based on that plan just becomes an exercise in checking pre-conceived ideas off the list.

I'm not a fan of Facebook and it's really not a decent research resource in my opinion. On CGOAB I have a fair idea of what someone has done and what weight to attach to their contribution. Not so much on Facebook. There's a whole lot of "look at me", "look at my bestest gear" and "cool" answers to serious questions. Also, there's a heavy dependence on videos on the platform. And some groups are just downright exclusionary!

I did listen to some podcasts, but they don't really speak to me. (Ha!)

One thing that I was sure would be different for me was human contact. The "best" journals often had a lot of human contact and I tend towards timid, especially with strangers.
However, I found that on trips long and short a guy on a bike draws attention from (normally) pretty decent souls. I'm convinced that a guy (or a gal!) on a bike comes across as non-threatening and I think that for a lot of people a bike is a throwback to a simpler, childlike time. People respond to that.There's a romance to it that attracts a lot of people and can break down "conventional" communication barriers. I could walk around any town in NL and I may as well be invisible. Throw a couple of panniers on a bike and people looked at me differently and were more likely to initiate contact.
In parts of the world a bike is simply a method of transportation, not a sport, not a leisure activity. It's "normal". Rolling into a strange town, loaded, immediately connects the bike tourist with Normal Joe or Joanne.
There's a flip side too. A bike tour (even a weekender) can be as different from day to day life as you want to make it. It may be that forgetting schedules, a simpler life can also free us of "usual" pressures we're not aware of. That change may make some of us a little less timid or a bit more open.

As all that reading was going on though, the biggest source of inspiration and information were my own little adventures.

I had a new job that gave me five weeks holiday!! I didn't know myself! On top of that I had a three day weekend every three weeks! All of a sudden I had loads of time! Previously, I could work up to 6 months with one day off!
Twice, I was called into the office and given a bollocking for not taking enough holidays! I did two tours pretty much at the drop of a hat with minimal planning because of that! One was to be the source of the Rhine to the Dutch coast, but the source was still snowed in! The train driver radioed ahead for the most up to date forecast and still on the train, I changed my destination. It may seem crazy, but it encourages a certain flexibility when you land in a different city than originally planned!

*Practising my culinary skills! In one of those pictures I made bread!*​





Every ride was a learning experience. I did a lot of things "wrong" or as I like to think of them, I learned stuff.
I started commuting and figured out the best way to cycle in the rain, snow and temperatures well below zero. Then I sold my car and used the bike for everything. That was a phenomenal confidence boost.
As a lazy bugger I had no option but to ride the bike. Rain or shine. Errands in the city were a lot less stressful on the bike. I'd already started to slow down when I had the car, but using the bike for everything had me almost Zen-like. The journey was often more satisfying than ticking off whatever errand.

I had no gps device, used Osmand for "emergency" navigation having tested it out. I learned to change my outlook and not to think in terms of being "lost", but "exploring". Lost is stressful. Exploring is fun. I think that these mental states are really important.

I camped in winter! -8 celcius! And lived! And enjoyed it!

I talked to everyone along the way when I took trips. I bought a Trangia after the Camino trip and packed an extra cup. On some routes, there are always other cycle tourers and most of them appreciate a free cup of coffee!
I recall meeting a chap cycling to Nordkaap - for the second time. His first attempt left him in a Scandinavian hospital after ignoring saddle sores, developing blood poisoning and passing out. All he could focus on was his schedule.
I met a retired man in a Belgian campsite. He told me of his trip to Spain as a young man with a friend. His friend pared weight everywhere, including the proverbial cutting half the handle off his toothbrush! His friend was cold a lot, developed skin issues from wearing dirty/damp clothing and kept simultaneously poking his gum and stabbing the palm of his hand with his toothbrush!

I also had photos. In the old days, we had to ration our photos - processing was expensive! Today we take unlimited photos! But do we look at them?
I made photobooks for a couple of tours and after moving from Apple discovered Google Photos. Always there.
Above my bed, I placed a poster of "road views" from my Spanish trip.
Similarly, I hung three large maps in my hall (the only place with a large enough surface). Several times a day I had a physical representation of where I wanted to go.
When my first attempt at this trip crashed and burned, they were invaluable in slowly being able to pull something out of the ashes.

Fear is a funny thing…...
When I started camping and thinking further afield, I realised that I'd have to wild camp / stealth camp. The thought was terrifying to me! As is my way, I thought I'd better get it over with. I know I set off one day with the intention of camping off grid - but I'm damned if I can recall it now!! I've thought back the last few days and can't for the life of me recall it! I think it was in Germany, but possibly not! At the time it was huge! Now? Not so much.
*Wild/Stealth camping. Germany & Scotland*​





I also signed up to Warmshowers and looked forward to meeting interesting, inspiring people. Ha! Dumbass!
The most inspiring was a non-cyling Polish woman who flew into Maastricht, bought a bike, cycled to Rotterdam, then back a different way, sold the bike back to the shop and flew home. I thought she was great!

About this time I started to feel "qualified" to contribute to online fora. Some are better than others. Some are just regulars settling old scores. (Over the years I've pretty much stopped posting on any other ones).

I always feel a pang of sympathy when someone comes along looking for information for an idea to tour. Oftentimes I think they're actually looking for inspiration and support. I can vividly recall the fear I felt before my first ever tour - And that was with a van carrying my gear and a nice hotel waiting for me! I also recall the intense satisfaction of discovering I was already at my destination on day one.
Fear 0 Hobbes 1!
Everyone should feel that!

*My first tour, along the Donau/Danube. I was scared of that!*​





I always get a knot in my gut when the question is focused on distance or weight or something measurable. If that's your thing that's great for you. However, if you're starting off and you _*think*_ that's your thing, you may never get to find the real freedom of a cycle tour - even if it's only out the road to a friend's farm to pitch your tent. It's very hard to move away from "measurement" once you've gone down that road.

I hadn't read anything online when I went on my first tour and I often think how lucky I am that that was the case. Other than a large dose of fear I was carrying no preconceptions. Things happened and I responded not based on what conventional "bike touring" wisdom said was correct or incorrect, but on what I thought. Liberating!

I joined a Dutch group and looked forward to a group weekend tour. The Dutch go everywhere! On bikes! Themselves and the Germans are probably the greatest cycle tourists of all.
Group touring is not for me and it had nothing to do with cycling.

Finally, there was other inspiration building up over decades.
My father had enrolled me into the local library at a very young age, opening a door that sometimes has swung ajar, but never closed. The Librarian, Mrs Caffrey did the rest.
I'm Irish, so emigration is a fact of life. I saw my siblings head away for lands far and wide when I was still quite young. Other families were the same. Christmas in my hometown is full of returned travellers.
When my turn came, I travelled too. Packing up and hitting a strange country was more exciting than scary.
And music. As an almost lifelong Springsteen fan I couldn't be anything but inspired by the open road. Ok, I don't have a muscle car but Roccado does fine.
Later, American music, especially the more country style, painted scenes of country, of place and of people, generally good and kind.
Who wouldn't want to visit?

Then, in practical terms, I set about acquiring the things I thought I'd need.
My time loading up and heading off on the "wrong" bike gave me more than enough time to figure out what I was looking for in a "new" bike.
Roccado fitted the bill.
I tested out the concept of a hub dynamo relatively cheaply, then upgraded to a SON and glad I did!
Winter touring and especially commuting had me buying my first ever cycling clothes - Gorewear jacket & rainpants.
I researched heavily and bought the wrong tent.
I got a gps unit, returned it and got a different one. Research!!!
I tested out everything I could think of - route planners, cameras, charging, maintenance, pitching the tent in high winds, I went to Belgium to test a trailer and bought it.
I was putting together the bike that I wanted bit by bit. Every trip, whether an overnighter or a 3 week trip to Ireland and back was a testing and learning experience. To my mind, nothing beats that.

*Every one of these pictures is taken within about an hour from my front door in NL*​





I also started compiling my "Dummy List" - a whole load of resources for worst case scenarios. I'm not a mechanic, nor mechanically minded, but I've ridden my bike to the woods with my toolkit and stripped and rebuilt it. (That taught me a tool roll is very useful when working in less than perfect conditions). I have a pile of videos on my phone for when I'm stuck.
I've a bike maintenance book on my Kindle, another document with bike parts in various languages, as well as numerous articles and diagrams on my Kindle. I've a small picture book for communicating with zero language in case I get really lost and end up in China!
In other words, I've given myself the tools I think I need to do what I want to do.
I was ready.

When I gingerly mounted Roccado and rolled out of T-town, I had:

Maps
The gear I thought I'd need
Multiple GPX files created for different versions of the same routes
A kindle, filled with those disorganised files, my Dummy List and lots and lots of reading!
Saved Google Maps with campgrounds highlighted (to work offline)
Osmand with all the initial maps saved (to work offline)
A bit of experience under my belt
A head full of inspiration and dreams.
_I don't have a comprehensive list of all the best journals I read. Ditto for other blogs/youtubers.
Most links I have on my laptop, sitting in a friend's attic in NL. Some that I can recall are no longer hosted on CGOAB. There is a very effective search function on the site and checking the guestbook is often a good way to get more info or more sources.
Anyone reading this, and thinking "Someday I'll start checking out Journals", I'd encourage you to start sooner than later. CGOAB isn't going to be around forever and is losing contributors regularly._

Other links to consider that I've become aware of since I started

https://humancyclist.wordpress.com/2013/11/16/cycleur/. 

"Lands of Lost Borders: A Journey on the Silk Road" by Kate Harris.


And some other Bike Touring books I read:
"Dividing the Great" by John Metcalfe.
https://a.co/ajb43UF

"The Road Headed West: A Cycling Adventure Through North America" by Leon McCarron.
https://a.co/aUOpFuW

"North To South: A man, a bear and a bicycle" by James Brooman, David Brooman.
https://a.co/fgl1edg

"Squeaky Wheels: the Non-friction Adventure from Sea to Shining Sea" by Scott Hippe.
https://a.co/cu9jCKQ

"To Shake the Sleeping Self: A Journey from Oregon to Patagonia, and a Quest for a Life with No Regret" by Jedidiah Jenkins.
https://a.co/5OChgPT

*My first self supported tour in Germany. That forest wasn't on my "route" and I fought (and lost) the urge to go into it. When I turned off my carefully plotted route I learned a valuable lesson - ride what's in front of you (or to one side in this case). *​






Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Mar 2021)

Crash Boom Bang Day Whatever.....

So, there have been a few times on this trip where the reality meets the concept. There was the time I "found" myself riding the bike in Mississippi and had a real "Wow" moment. More than a year later I still can't fathom why? Or, why there, specifically?
Or the day I crossed into the tropics! Only for a sign on the road it would probably still be a nebulous concept.
They have been positive moments, inviting a thrilling feeling, surprise and a sense of accomplishment.
Unfortunately, not all experiences can be positive and I've recently had a negative reality meets concept moment.
I fell off the bike!😊
The concept in this case is that I am, or at least a majority of me, is 17 years old.
The reality is that my body doesn't flip, bounce nor heal like a 17 year olds!

*At this time of the year, these trees with their lavender blooms are everywhere bringing even more beauty to this beautiful town.*​






It was my own darn fault! It was a Monday morning a few weeks ago and I was cycling into town just after 7 am. Traffic is light enough that it's pleasant, the temperature is fresh and the city looks fabulous as the sun rises gilding and shading, adding oodles of character, mystery, beauty and perspective to just about everything.

As always, I was going slow, riding in the bus lane soaking up the experience. Trailing one of the blue trolleybuses (electric) I instinctively pressed hard on the pedals when it suddenly accelerated away. 
Ha! Dumbass!
The bus was hightailing it through a brand spanking new red light on a 4 lane junction. Once I realised that my chances of survival were a whole lot less than a big, blue bus I pulled on my brakes. Hard. 
It's amazing how the mind works! In slow motion I was fully aware of the back of the bike rising up, of my ass ascending higher than my head, of the traffic to my right starting to roll forward, of the impending impact with the road, the need to relax for that impact and yet to be able to scramble to safety once the impact had occurred to avoid further impacts with that rolling traffic!
It felt so slow that I'm sure pedestrians on the corner had lots of time to whip out their phones and record my embarrassment. I haven't looked on Youtube!
A few good Samaritans did come to my aid, but I was already up and dragging Roccado off the road. 
Like a 17 year old!
I examined the bike before myself (an instinctive reaction that makes me think I may actually be some kind of cyclist) and saw no damage.
Then I looked at myself. No blood, and I didn't feel too bad, apart from two sore arms. Not bad! 
Like a 17 year old!
I could have gone home, but my 17 year old self decided to continue on to my destination of the Immigration offices to see if they were now open (they've been closed since before Christmas). 

*Not the greatest photo in the world but there's a wide range of trees, of shades of green, of light and shade*​





By the time I got there, I was in a whole world of pain! I registered that after being closed since mid December they were now open again, but it did not bring the satisfaction I would have expected. I crawled home, breathing through my teeth, every bump, every braking manoeuvre like a particularly evil road buddy stabbing a stiletto into my wrists and elbows. 
I got home, sank onto the bed and took a little siesta, thinking a little rest and the pain will evaporate. 
Like a 17 year old.
Ha! Dumbass!
When I awoke, things were worse!
It seemed like my arms had set themselves into two different positions, both painful.
I couldn't straighten my left arm at all and realised that I had no strength from elbow to fingertip in either arm. 
Not like a 17 year old!

I thought either cold or heat might help so I opted for a shower. Except I couldn't raise either arm above elbow height. While I may have contemplated showering in my unremovable t-shirt the removal of socks was impossible.
I opted for cold and went to the freezer for a bag of frozen veg. Even two handed I couldn't open the door!

I gave myself an examination. I could detect no swelling around wrists or elbows, there was no excessive heat from the areas, I had full movement of my fingers (just no strength) so I concluded that the whole flipping myself over the handlebars had probably made the tendons around my elbows and wrists do something that they'd never thought they'd have to do. In fairness, they were entitled to protest!
I prescribed myself rest.

*I love this momument not because of its design, its significance or its location in a beautiful park. I love it because it sounds cheerful and full of joy! The slopes beside the steps are used by kids as big slides!*​





Standing was painful. My left arm was most comfortable bent at 90 degrees. Standing, gravity tried to straighten it out - pain. I tried to improvise a sling from a strap but couldn't muster the strength to unclip it!
Sitting was ok. I could read or watch my tablet. Typing or pressing the screen was a no-no.
Lying down was ok, except for the lying down and getting up parts. Instinctively, I'd go to use my arms - big mistake!
Sleeping was interesting! I couldn't roll onto my side so I'd lie there, my hands interlaced on my belly. Stick some beads between my fingers and I'd have passed for a corpse!

Let's just say that it was not a pleasant week! We use our arms a lot, you know!






I lived on porridge. Boil water. Brace myself and dump oatmeal in. Wait. Stir a bit. That was the easy part. Using a spoon was painful! I couldn't raise my arm so my head was as close to the bowl as possible.

Brushing my teeth? That was an experience!
I'd no strength to squeeze the tube of toothpaste so I had to balance the tube off something solid and use an elbow to press down and force out some toothpaste.
This presented two problems. 
The first was that the elbow was very sensitive and I needed to find the "sweet spot". The second was that there was nothing to catch the toothpaste. I had to squeeze enough out (for my teeth) without too much that would cause it to fall on the floor. Trying to find the "sweet spot" on the elbow could invoke a pain spasm that sent a squirt of toothpaste on a journey of freedom only to crash to the floor!
Once the toothpaste was successfully on the brush, I had to lower my head as much as possible, hold the brush as tightly as possible (not very, in reality) and move my head up and down, over and back. 
And that was just brushing my teeth!

It was a pretty crap week! I couldn't use Duolingo for Spanish for long. The most comfortable position was lying down but then I couldn't hold up any of my kindle, phone or tablet. I gave up on the idea of going to the Immigration offices. I listened to the radio a lot and Spanish podcasts. Going out was not really an option. I had lots of oatmeal so no need to shop. I had veggies like potatoes and carrots but couldn't peel them! 
However, one good thing I noticed, was that an internal dialogue I'd normally have with myself after yet another dumbass moment was surprisingly absent!

*I know I keep harping on about light, but really and truly, light + trees + shiny buildings can really create some wonderful scenes!*​





That was Monday and I did pretty much nothing until Sunday, when, with the strategic planning of a General and the execution of a die hard soldier I got up, shaved, showered, dressed and went for a walk.
Monday morning, I was ready for the immigration offices again!

Since they are about 12km from me, there is no direct public transport (and besides, that's very Covidy) I opted to take the bike.
That won't go down in the annals of my good decisions!
Every bump (and there's a whole lot of bumps here!) seemed to remove an hour's worth of healing. Every time I had to stop (and there's a lot of traffic lights here!) put pressure on my arms and wrists that seemed to knock off half a day's worth of healing.
By the time I'd arrived at the offices I was starting to think that I'd a flux capacitor on the bike and Marty McFlylike I had gone back a week in time!
Other than the pain, the first thing I noticed was how busy the offices were! In fact, they were now opening up at 8 instead of 9! I joined the efficiently flowing queue and was soon at a counter presenting my documentation.
Prior to the offices shutting down, I'd visited, received instructions and carried them out by filling in forms online, getting them printed, going to the bank and making two separate payments. I was ready! 
Ha! Dumbass!
The first problem was that I'd filled out the wrong application! (You do have to give me credit for consistency!) In my defence, it's very complicated, all the forms required the same information and this time my extension is not for humanitarian reasons. 
The second problem was that the two fees I'd paid in December had gone up! I'd have to go back to the same bank and pay the top up charges! 
That was a killer! I could have popped into any copy place (there are lots) knocked off the correct form and been back in 30 minutes. But the bank? That was in Coyocán - even further than home! (Dumbass had decided to make the trip to the bank an interesting walk!)

*An interesting walk!*​





Swiftly outside, I unlocked Roccado and decided I wasn't riding any more. We walked home together. According to Gizmo, it's about 12km door to door and I was able to do that almost completely under trees! Think about that for a moment.
I got home, went online, completed the correct form, down to the copy place, got it printed, then off to the bank where the top up payments went fine.
Tuesday morning, I was ready to go again!
Except I wasn't. I felt like crap. My arms were sore again, for sure, but I was nauseous, lightheaded and very weak. I couldn't even face coffee! A bad sign! 
I stayed in bed for the day, forcing myself to drink water.
Wednesday, I tried again.

*Upgrading the doggy section in Parque España*​





Up at 4 am, leaving before 6 (everything takes longer with bad arms!) I walked and arrived not long after 8 am.
Again, I was swiftly seen. 
Problem.
The name on my passport (full name) did not match the name on the (4) bank receipts (middle name missing!) Things could not proceed! Back to the bank to request new receipts in the correct full name! In Coyocán!
I did, but the man at the Banco….he said "No". He said "No" to every single proposal, occasionally breaking into English to say "No"! 

I returned again to the immigration offices having walked about 40km before noon. While walking I hit on a possible reason for my dead day on Tuesday. It gets pretty hot and very sunny here these days! I was definitely feeling off when I arrived back at the offices. 
Back in the queue, soon at the counter, given a form (4 copies required!) that could be used to explain how dumb I was for not using the correct name on the form!
Home again (wrecked!), down to the copy place, forms filled, then bed.
Thursday would be the day!
There was no getting up at 4 am! I was shattered! I made it to the offices for 10 am. Soon up to the counter, presented my paperwork including the 4 "I'm so dumb I don't know my own name but please let me stay in your country" forms. 
Problem.
The forms were correct and according to procedures they could accept them...but….it would take a whole lot longer. Months longer, with a kind of a shrug that suggested the Rapture might just pip it to the finishing line. 
It was my choice, but if I considered paying the fees again (in the correct damn name!) everything would go far more smoothly.
With this, I had no problem. This wasn't a shakedown. I was paying money into a Govt account, not cash in an envelope. It was about €100 and considering that I've already received one extension gratis and how good México has been to me, it's perfectly fair in my book. Best of all, I could use any bank - including one around the corner! 

*Perhaps I'm just odd, but long walks in this city are not a hardship! *​





It's also significant to me, if no-one else, that all this was done in Spanish! Not only did I understand what was said (ok, it took two attempts!), I also understood what was not said and the implications of that.

Done and done! 

The rest of the day was waiting and watching. An occasional visit to the counter to sign a new form, another bank visit to pay the last fee and I was the last person to receive a visitor permit on Thursday, just before 6 pm.

The place is incredibly busy and the process is very bureaucratic. My "file" grew in size through the day with copies of copies. After 4 pm (normally the offices are closed at 1, but hours are extended until 6) there was a visible increase in pressure and tempo.
They have to deal with all kinds of unusual situations so procedures are not as clear cut as normal. Despite the constant grind of paperwork, of data input, cross checking, double checking, dealing with people as inept as myself there was no snapping at people (colleagues or clients) and occasional displays of humanity. A pregnant woman being brought to the front of everyone and receiving priority treatment, a young woman, maybe 21 years of age who became overwhelmed as the day progressed until she couldn't control her tears was brought up to the counter and chatted to until whatever seemed to bother her was put to bed and she could resume her waiting with a happier look on her face.
Even the security guys at the front are a pleasure. I don't expect armed guards to display much in the personality stakes, but they are pleasant, friendly and put people at their ease. Hell, they saw so much of me this week that we were practically on first name terms!

*Yes! Walking here is a boring chore, mind-numbing, devoid of pleasure and really something to be avoided! (That's sarcasm, Willie!)*​





Every time I have been there I have been at pains to thank whoever I was dealing with for their work on my behalf. Practically none of them accept it, dismissing my gratitude with a wave of the hand which is about the only failing I can find.
They're not allowed to receive gifts and I witnessed one woman, obviously as grateful as myself, proffer what looked like a small box of chocolates to the "main" lady and be swiftly rejected. I understand the no gifts policy, but it is a pity that the time isn't taken by the personnel to receive the gratitude and genuine goodwill of the people they have helped.

So, to conclude, a couple of points. México, in its infinite generosity and compassion, if not intelligence, has given me another 180 days to stay! 
Secondly, CDMX is not a place to enjoy with arms that are painful to raise. The sheer number of times that it's automatic to salute someone while wandering around in this city causes no end of pain! 

What a great feckin' complaint!

*Enchanted Street. Literally. Look where that branch goes!*​






Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2021)

Day Whatever ...... Armless in CDMX

In a previous post I alluded to a self inflicted injury that had left me pretty much without the use of functioning arms. After 6 days of feeling sorry for myself (something at which I can excel!), no physical exercise and to remove a heavy cloak of lethargy, I dragged myself outside for a walk. I was not expecting to enjoy it and had "bribed" myself that I'd have breakfast out as an incentive to get out the door. However, as is the way in this magical place, it took my ugly expectations, put them through a mincer and presented them back to me as a thing of joy and beauty. This is a story of a Sunday in México City.

*There's a house back there! Honest!*​





I'm not going to go into the logistics of bodily hygiene with two damaged arms, but my morning routine also involved some coffee, each sip involving a head lowering and a two handed cup lift. After coffee I hit the road.

I'd decided on a destination, unusually, for my perambulations because I was sure that if left to my own devices I'd just wander around the block and home again. My destination was the Parque México near the centre. A particularly beautiful park that is always hectically busy at weekends. The route there, however, was in the laps of the Gods.

After about three junctions I was on the smaller streets and enjoying the early Sunday morning vibe - the heat of the sun, the cool of the shade, the occasional tree with birds singing and chattering, the almost complete absence of traffic - on my street, at least. 
Since this is CDMX and it's been almost a week since I was out of doors she has a surprise for me. There are trees covered in the most beautiful purple/lavender/pink coloured blossoms everywhere it seems. These are big trees, towering above the streets, a multitude of skinny branches, denuded of leaves, stretching hither and tither. Along these branches are these beautiful blooms. Judging by the residue on the ground they're lavender in colour, but up high, subject to the bright sun and dark shade they can vary from sunny pink to an earthy purple.
I can't put my finger on why these trees strike me as so beautiful. They could almost be dead only for the blaze of colour. The blossoms themselves seem very fragile since the areas under the trees are often littered with the delicate, fallen leaves. The problem of trying to capture these sights is twofold;
First of all, holding a camera or a phone up is painful, not to mention almost impossible to do steadily.
Secondly, framed against a bright blue sky (sorry for the bragging!😀) a particularly fine camera will be needed!

*A particularly large, concrete Church behind the lavender blooms. This photo highlights the problem of trying to capture them on camera. You'll just have to visit*!​





After an hour of gentle strolling I come across a little café that serves breakfast and has outdoor seating. I look carefully at the menu, thinking about eggs and fruit but the devil on my right shoulder ordered the pancakes with nutella! When offered home made icecream to go with it, the angel on my left goes over to the dark side! The three girls working are very pleasant and friendly, my table and chair gets sprayed before I sit down, I'm dispensed some gel for my hands (a painful routine) and soon I'm sipping on a milky coffee. 

My food arrives and I imagine that after a week of porridge flavoured with cinnamon and honey I look like a little kid who fell asleep in September and wakes up on Christmas morning!

My left hand can't take the cutlery so I try to hack with the fork in my right. Shockwaves to the elbow! Taking the knife now in my right, I try to cut bite size pieces. Better. The warm pancake is quickly melting the ice cream too, creating a creamy, chocolatey goo that is childishly delightful to try to scoop up with a fork! 
One of the girls comes out to check on me mid mouthful and a look at my grinning face tells her all she needs to know.
Afterwards, I take out my kindle and read a little as I finish my coffee. What's the rush?

When I resume my wandering the sun is higher - and hotter - and the little street I am on is dappled with light and shade. A couple of streets over is Insurgentes Sur - a main thoroughfare - but where I'm walking it's so still, so calm that it's easy to believe that I'm not in one of the biggest cities on the planet.

Eventually, I have to break cover and brace the traffic, but this is México, and especially around this park traffic gives way - to everyone.

There's something of the jungle to this park. Lots of high trees, pretty densely packed together block out the sun so the first thing to feel is the coolness. Lots of lower bushes and plants fill out the space from root to treetop, and paths of various widths and surfaces weave through the park inviting exploration. Scattered around are lots of benches with wooden roofs finishing off the jungle theme.

In the rainy season it's steamy and exotic. On a bright, Spring day it is glorious!

*El Parque México. Pack some money and a bit of imagination. A good time is almost guaranteed.*​





Like a lot of things here there's a strange contrast to it. On the one hand, there is the definite jungle vibe to it, on the other hand, this is close to the city centre, traffic flowing on all sides (and even cutting it in two!). 
There's the fact that it is heaving with people and yet seems so calm and tranquil. In most places here I could close my eyes and the only indicator that there are people around would be the music, soft conversations, the occasional happy screech of a child or bark of a dog. 
This is in a wealthy area and attracts a lot of well to do folks - it's the place I'm most likely to hear a lot of English spoken, some of the dresses worn by the ladies wouldn't look out of place in an Italian fashion show - but you'll also see families having a picnic on patches of grass and there's always a few homeless folk around too. Different worlds ……. Collide is the word that automatically seems to follow but is completely wrong. 
There's no violent collision, there's a gentle coming together.
There's no enmeshing - the wealthy are clearly the wealthy, the poor clearly the poor - but there's a harmony, a mutual respect - or at least that's how it seems to me. 

At the weekend this place is packed! During the week it's quieter. It has all the things parks here have, but since this is in a richer part of town, they're of a higher standard.
You can rent the battery powered cars for kids - newer and cleaner than my local one, buy snacks and goodies, but "trendier", you can get massages on dedicated stools (as opposed to on a park bench) and there are amusements for the kids. Instead of buying a sheet of paper and sitting down at a table to paint in whatever image is on it, here the surface is a tile. There's a trampoline too that makes the one near me seem like something that the Spanish brought over.

Here, though, there's music and lots of it. The prime spot (today) is occupied by a one man band playing the Beatles. Only the Beatles! Stick to the perimeter and there's a blues band. A little further a guy is playing the sax. I settle down on a bench a little ways from a guy playing the violin. He has a backing track to fill out his sound and does an excellent job of several solos for each backing track.

*Believe it or not this is a busy park! Again, and again, this city has magical areas where I just can't believe that I'm in such a large city. Tranquil. But never lonely. A smile is just around the corner!*​





Taking out my book to read was probably a wasted effort - there's just too much to see! 
First of all, the violinist had a dog who lay spreadeagled in the path in front of him - a magnet for every passing child. Such a mild mannered dog he never moved, just accepted it all with good grace. Somewhere in the park you can rent pedal cars for adults and a few were wandering around driven by people, apparently, who have never driven a real car! Honestly, 3 and 4 year olds in the battery ones are safer!
There is, of course, a constant stream of dogs wandering by of all shapes and sizes. But more on that later.

Normally, it's not a problem for me to pull out my kindle and read. Today, however, I have an itch, probably caused by a week of doing feck all.
I head first for the violinst and make a little donation. We have a brief chat and I go to head away. But there's a dog. I can't resist! I ask his Boss if it's OK and he just laughs so I hunker down beside a big, lazy golden retriever and say hello. To my initial shock, then subsequent delight, he rouses himself, hops up and wants to play! Some gentle wrestling ensues and when I go to leave he follows me and lures me back! 

Eventually I make my getaway, only then realising how much my arms are hurting, and continue on, wandering inside the park. Of course I'm drawn to the doggy area. This one is particularly good, very busy at weekends and best of all has a low fence so that I can rest my arms comfortably.

A bit of time watching the dogs here and we'd be forgiven for doubting that we are the brightest creatures on this planet. They know how to get along with each other. Mangy mongrels and pure pedigrees, fighting beasts and handbag hounds coexist peacefully, play together, probe boundaries and respect each other.

The first pair that catch my eyes are total opposites. The big one is big, his back higher than my hips, the pattern and colours of a Fresian cow with a blocky, rectangular head. I christen him Blocky. His playmate is a pup, some kind of bull terrier, a coat of tight, dark brown fur. That's Pup. The little guy is delighted playing with the big fella! He's jumping up at his head, running under his huge paws and just generally making a nuisance of himself. The big guy pretends to be disinterested, but he's not - if Pup gets distracted he'll trot after him and start it all over again. At one stage, pup leaps high and gets a decent grip on Blocky's big ear! He's delighted to be swinging around until eventually he loses his grip, goes flying to crash and roll in the brown dust. Immediately he's back on his feet and plunging back for more. Blocky sends him rolling in the dust with a casual flick of a front leg. Pup lies there in a cloud of dust for a moment, his tail wagging in the dust the way kids (of all ages) use their arms to make snow angels and then leaps up to return to the fray!

Later, when Blocky is gone, Pup makes it his business to say hello to as many people (and dogs) as possible. He finds one lady with snacks and pesters her until she shares (after a quick look to his boss). Emboldened, he then launches a not so subtle attack on her bag looking for more! She just laughs it off.

*It seems like every street has at least one of these trees, sometimes entire streets are full. Sunlight makes them pinkish, shade purple. Early morning or late evening the tops are different shades to the body - mixed in amongst the various greens of other trees - breathtaking. *​





An old woman with a grumpy old dog does a lap. He doesn't like attention from other dogs and protests loudly when anyone gets too close. Every dog respects his space, most with a confused look. 

A pristine Lassie dog, gleaming and sparkling on arrival is soon fully immersed in the chasing, catching, rolling and wrestling. With such long hair he's soon covered in the brown reddish dust and he'll be shedding that dust all the way home.

Sometimes there's a group of big dogs, huskies, shepherds, old English Sheepdogs, Boxers, chasing each other, flying through the park, sending dust everywhere. At first glance it can seem a terrifying sight - but the body language of the dogs betrays their playful intent. There's that little extra spring, that little half jump in every pace that says loud and clear that this running is for fun, not fighting.

*What a fandabbydooby place to bring a dog! Photo is from July*​





Dopey (meant in the nicest possible way) is a happy, black retriever cross. He's with his bosses and nothing seems to make him happier than when one or other throws a ball for him to chase. He runs, gets it, bounds back to them then leaps onto the stone bench they are sitting on, right in the middle of the couple. A couple of minutes of him demanding attention and then the cycle continues. 
Except when Desperado gets involved. Desperado is different and sticks out in this park. He's a light black, short haired shepherd and has a sinister vibe about him. He sticks close to his bosses and visibly tenses when another dog comes over. None stay around him. Whatever senses dogs have, they are picking something up off this guy. Desperado is close to Dopey and watches the routine. I don't know why, but something keeps telling me that jealousy is the driver, Desperado steals Dopey's ball on a throw. 
Now, this is the kind of thing that happens all the time here. The dogs chase each other, there's a bit of a wrestle and now there's two (or more) dogs to chase the next throw.
Not this time.
Like the other dogs Dopey keeps his distance, trotting back to his bosses with the funniest confused look on his face. 
Desperado's bosses finally realise what is going on and go to retrieve the ball from his mouth. Desperado isn't giving it up.
It's actually a little sad. This is the most attention he's had since I first noticed him a while ago. He is not giving up the ball. His jaws are clamped down. Hard. 
Persuasion doesn't work. Tugging the ball doesn't work. Slapping doesn't work. Shouting doesn't work. 
The shouting is a strange one. In a park with probably a hundred dogs running, jumping, wrestling and playing, shouting is a very rare thing.
All this time Dopey is looking at Desperado and then at his own bosses and back again with a genuinely confused look on his face. He has no idea what is going on.
Dopey's boss offers a treat to Desperado's boss who initially declines, then in desperation, takes it. A bait and switch manoeuvre and a moment later the ball and treat are returned. Desperado is shuffled out of the park.
It's unusual to see such a scene here. Dogs are well trained, compliant and easy going. 

Afterwards, I sit down beside a fountain and take out my kindle again. Ha! 
A hot day, a fountain …. it's not long until there's a dog leaping in to cool down. Then another. Soon they're chasing each other, sliding around having great fun.

With so many dogs in this park there are people selling name tags, collars, leads and other doggy accessories, some of them in the brightest, most cheerful colours. Normally such sellers make a bee line for me and at first, I was a tad offended until I realised what they were selling and was reminded of the fact I'm dogless!

However, I need not be. As I was sitting, more watching than reading, a confident little, long-legged mongrel trotted right up to me. I'm delighted to make any dog's acquaintance but as I leaned down to pet him I saw something that made my heart sink.
"Adoptame" said a laminated piece of paper that was almost as wide as he was long hanging from his collar. He was quickly joined by another little fella. The two trotted around seemingly unaccompanied and not at all bothered about their orphan status.

Later, along one side of the park a doggy charity is making good use of all the people interested in dogs to try to secure homes for mutts of all shapes, sizes, ages and personalities. I didn't know (and still don't) whether to be uplifted or sad. One particularly cute little fella was following a señorita and no matter what she said he just kept following her. It was both funny and sad. 

*Pool time! The jets went on and off sporadically - a source of much amusement to the dogs!*​





The park is bisected by a road so that there are two halves. One half has a roundish area, concreted and surrounded with arches. This is the place I witnessed two football matches taking place simultaneously - in the same space! On a Sunday it's filled with kids (of all ages) on bikes, roller skates, skateboards, roller blades and scooters. A recipe for disaster….. but it's not. I could take a lidless jar, stand in the middle, sweep my arm and capture joy in a jar. 

On the paths around this area are stalls of second hand clothing, mainly, for women, and if I'm understanding correctly, to raise money for women's issues. 

It's time to start heading home and the side streets around the park are lined with eating places of all sizes and styles, all with seats outside. There's something very pleasant to me about wandering past terrases, especially here, where I can often walk right through them. The chatter, the hustle and bustle of people working and playing, the aromas, the literal eye candy of different foods feed something else than my belly.

I'm hungry, but I'll look for something closer to home. I have special dietary requirements these days - nothing requiring a knife and fork! Preferably something I can lift easily. I'm thinking Pizza, maybe a burger.

*Tables on the path, tables on the street, and there's always a few dogs too. *​





The walk home can be as pleasant as I want to make it. I can take the direct route, stay on the busy main road and not get lost or I can stick to the smaller side streets and be tempted off course by the dying light working its magic on trees and buildings. I opt for the latter.

I'm about two thirds of the way home and the last golden rays are gilding the tops of the trees when I see my spot. It's a trendyish burger place with a couple of empty tables outside. Ordinarily I wouldn't touch the place (trendy and food are difficult concepts to marry successfully) , but now I'm hungry, the seats are under a big tree and even though the street is big it's very quiet. There's a vibe and I like it.

I wander inside, check they're still open and make my order, returning outside to sit. I've ordered a burger and fries and some onion rings because I'm hungry. 
The waitress brings my onion rings first - a huge portion - and my first reaction is to burst out laughing! I must look like a piggy!

*This is Kika who came over to me on a different day in a different park. Unusually for here she's a bit overweight but that doesn't stop her playing!
She trotted over, paused, looked at me seeking whatever dogs seek then leaped at me! Her Boss was on the next bench over, his wife and daughter (on a pink bike) having great fun on a nearby little hill so I reckon she was bored!*​





The thing with the food here is that it always looks so good! The burger, when it came, looked wonderful and I'm useless at disguising my reactions. When my chips arrived I had a feast in front of me and there was no mistaking my pleasure. 

My budget doesn't allow for a lot of eating out, but I have noticed that when I do, I read my kindle a lot less than before. The food is so interesting, the environment so remarkable that they draw more and more of my attention.

I think I may have startled the waitress because she returned a little later with a "preguntita" for me (a little question). She wanted to know where I was from because, I'm assuming something about me wasn't computing.

Food finished, I went inside to pay my bill. The waitress and the chef were sitting down (I was their only customer), so I settled up. I thanked the chef for her burger (fantastic!) and that started a chat between the three of us. 
Apparently, my behaviour was a little odd! In their experience Gringos didn't try to speak Spanish. They aren't too impressed with the food, wanting this and that changed. They are impatient. 
They asked me what I was doing there - sure, that's a tale all in itself!
The two girls were from Venezuela, economic refugees. They were happy enough in México and didn't disagree with my idea that México seems to act like a big brother for a lot of the countries in this part of the world. Since, technically, I'm in North America, there I was carrying on a conversation with two girls from the next continent down! 

After a week of not much more than porridge and zero getting out and about my food finding skills once again proved themselves, leading me to a place that nourished body and soul. 

México - it's feckin' great! (Venezuela might be worth a visit too!😀)


Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2021)

Sorry! Indulge me please......

Dawn, noon, sunset, the light falls differently and casts a magical aura around these trees. 
Wandering around can be quite dangerous with my head focused on something in the distance!

The thing is, the trees are actually quite thinly adorned with the blooms. Standing under a tree can be a tad disappointing - the leaves are shadows against the blue sky, the tree is almost naked and deadlike.
But in the evening, find a tree, stand under it and wait. A gust of wind will come along and in moments I'm in a lavender snowfall!
It's Fall, but not as we know it!


Who wouldn't be drawn down this street?






Colour! Colour everywhere!






Line up with a Palm tree and the setting sun and magic happens







You doubted me!!!





More flaneuring required......





Perhaps I hit my head when I fell, but these colours, the contrasts, the vibrancy, the life simply lifts me.





Contrast! Colour! Life!






Sunday Morning Coming Down.





The Fall!






All of these pics have been enhanced, but not by much. The colours really have to be seen to be believed!

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Mar 2021)

Drip Drip Days Whatever….

I don't recommend doing a somersault over your handlebars, but there turned out to be one welcome advantage!

After three weeks of self enforced exile, I finally was capable of using a knife and fork in public, so headed down to Alex for a T-bone.
Well! What a welcome! He'd presumed that I had already continued my journey and had been disappointed that we hadn't exchanged numbers. Soon, my steak was sizzling on the grill and I was introduced to a lady friend sounding like a great adventurer! Great for the ego, if more than a little inaccurate given that apparently a simple junction was so challenging!
So, I got a chance to recount my travels to a whole new audience, and answer some questions. 
At one stage she interrupted me, asked me if I spoke Spanish before I arrived, developed a look I'm interpreting as amazement and complimented me on my Español! I'll tell you, it was nearly worth falling off the darn bike!

I responded by freaking out the poor lady when I casually dropped the fact that I travelled with a tiger. Cue me scrambling for my phone to show Mazi, then Hobbes and finally Frida. The phone got handed around for Frida! Everyone thought she was great! Mexicans are a proud people - with a lot to be proud of.

*I've been playing with my photo editor, trying to do some scenes justice. I have been captivated by mountains here, the shades of colour.*​





It's interesting that there's a big difference here than in the US when I talk about my travels. A lot of the time in the US I played down my destination, often shortening it to "bite size" pieces. In Charleston I'd say I was heading for Nashville, in Nashville to Texas. If people responded positively, I might elaborate, but more often than not the reaction was negative in the sense that such a journey was simply not possible. 
(One man told me that I was on the wrong side of the world to be going to Argentina!)
Here? There's generally a moment to think, a subtle nod of the head as if to say "yeah, that's possible" and then a lot of questions. Not once have I encountered "But that's so dangerous". 
So, well fed and well chatted my meander home had me contemplating (not for the first time) just how lucky I am.

*The view from the top of The Devil's Backbone. Row after row of mountains, fading away in the distance.*​





It took about a week, but I finally started to put intent to the fact that I'm viewing this latest visa extension as the last.

It's pee or get off the pot time.

I made up my mind on one of the (many!) walks between the Immigration offices and home. I knew it was a "real" decision when I immediately started to feel emotional about leaving this place. 
México, and this city, has had a huge impact on me.

I think a combination of a growing frustration, a bit of loneliness, an awareness of a budget clicking down like one of those old petrol pumps in reverse and optimistic news reports about vaccines (elsewhere, not here) set me off, and once off no brakes were applied - given recent experiences I think, an understandable reaction!

I have two basic options:
Back to Europe or continue.
Europe would be the smart, sensible option. I could fly to Spain and wander slowly northwards. Hell, I could even stay in Spain!
I could head east - the Silk Road has long been a dream of mine, but it's the wrong time of the year. Without a home address visas for some places just won't be possible.
I'm not thinking of going back to Europe yet.

I could go north to the US but that idea leaves me quite cold. Expense is an issue, I don't have anywhere I _really_ want to go. If it is possible, it feels like I'd just be treading water, touring for the sake of it. 

South it is!

However, first I had to kick myself into gear, get my head in the game.
I have deliberately avoided thinking too much about the future the past year or so simply because the disappointment could be very difficult to deal with. I am, after all, in a country far, far from home and can count friends here on one hand and still have several fingers left over.
Fortunately, I am a simple chap. A look at the Tango scene from Scent of a Woman and a budget busting steak and (Ecuadorian) beer in an Argentenian restaurant I happened across was all I needed! (Oh that steak!!!)

While I had a rough plan when I stopped last year, I'm effectively starting from scratch again. 

*The road to Durango. Those little hills were a killer! *​





First things first. Virus. I need a vaccine. 
I'll park that for a while.

The next thing is weather.
On such a long trip as mine, with various constraints about timing, it's difficult to plan to always cycle in good weather. Central America, with rainy and Hurricane seasons, can be tricky. 
Add in Covid and several border crossings in quick succession it becomes more complicated. A fall back plan had always been to grab buses if the weather proved too inhospitable. Not a good idea in Covid times.

I've decided to skip Central America. 
It's both an easy and very difficult decision. Easy, because, frankly, it removes a lot of fear. Central America can be scary. 
Difficult, because that is exactly what I wanted to conquer. I'm far better equipped now in terms of language than I ever would have been, but Covid is devastating these countries. 
I tell myself that I will return and it may seem dumb but it is on the way back to México!
There's another reason too. 
I know me. 
Cycling across the Mexican border and into another country will be incredibly tough. Some tough days in the new place and I _will_ turn around. If I want to finish this trip I need a buffer between me and this wonderful country.

So, a plane it is! 

*The Cathedral in Morelia, at night. Ah, Morelia, that tempting Mistress! *​





But to where?

Again, the weather is key. Ushuia is best approached Christmas timeish and later. It's summer in the southern hemisphere then. Looking at a May departure that gives me 8 months to get there. 
There's only one place left on my wishlist - The Trampoline of Death in southern Colombia. Also, I have a Colombian friend, who I think, will kill me if I do not visit her native country! Let's not forget my coffee addiction - could I live comfortably with myself if I skipped over Colombia?

Colombia it is!

Now, where in Colombia to start?
Part of my original plan was to catch a sailboat from Panama to Cartagena in Colombia.
(I am sad at the prospect of missing the Panama Canal. While not on my mental list of things to see and do, now that I will miss it, I'm surprised at the depth of that feeling. I've passed many a relaxing afternoon watching barges in Europe. Ocean going ships on a canal???).
This is a common way across for backpackers and cyclists and was something I was anticipating with equal parts of joy and horror!
Joy because …... boats! How exciting to catch a sailboat on the other side of the world and to land on a new continent! 
Horror, because these boats are often occupied by backpackers who use the word "party" as a verb. Not my favourite kind of people.
The fact is that due to Covid this means of transport is not reliable anyway.

But Cartagena is still possible!

Time to check distances and weather!
A very, very rough calculation on Google Maps tells me it's 10500 km from Cartagena to Ushuia. Add 30% for my appalling sense of direction and general wanderings, say 13,000 km.
At an average 60 km per day (including rest days) that's 216 days, say 7 months. Start in Cartagena in May and it's possible - with time left over! Just the way I like it!

Then, there's the weather along the way.
I'll miss snow in the higher parts of Chile & Argentina (July & August), the rains in Peru (Dry season is May-September).
Ecuador, on the equator, is pretty consistent through the year. Besides, there's a few journals on CGOAB with folks travelling at different times. I don't see any red flags!

And that, folks is how I plan a tour!

The Big, Big Trip, Part II is go! 

*Colours!*​






Ha! Dumbass!!!

I wrote all that about 10 days ago. 

It was my own dumb fault. I didn't so much as cross the line I've been wary of even approaching, as take a good run at it and take a flying leap over it.

Nobody "parks" Covid and this last week has been a drip, drip, drip of bad news.

I won't get a vaccine here for months from the Government - and rightly so.
Way back in January, the Government did say that they would have no objection to private clinics selling the vaccine. That hasn't happened yet and is looking increasingly unlikely.
Any chances of buying one further south are non-existent too. Turns out that most countries have explicitly banned the private sale of vaccines in the time of a global pandemic. Feckin' Nanny States! (Even the US, that bastion of free market Capitalism!). 
Plus, most are two shots - not exactly compatible with a wandering bike tourist.
Besides, the vaccine roll out here is a tad chaotic. The evening news still shows each new delivery being unloaded from a plane. I am struck by the small numbers of vaccines in comparison to the population.

*Mazatlán*.​






I've no reason to think that I won't be able to extend my visa again, either here or doing a border run. But that leaves the timing for further south complicated. It adds cost too. 

Then, this past week I've seen European countries start increasing their lockdowns again. 
Add to that the disaster that is Brazil and the danger is that with such high rates of infection in these parts that mutant variations form that leave a vaccine less effective. I was expecting the Andes to be interesting on a bike. With a dose of mutant Covid what adjective do I need? Exciting?

*Cuatrociénegas. Last night before the desert crossing. The most basic of campsites but a friendly, warm welcome and this.....*​





The last of the optimism drained away, and left me questioning just what the hell I'd been thinking. 

It's a year down the road and I'm no further along. There's a sense of deja vu to all this. The embassy staff were bang on when they said that this could run and run. It has. And is.

I can't think of a single place to go to. (The UAE are offering vaccine vacations for the wealthy! Packages start at $25,000!)
I don't think I can stay where I am, not sure I want to, even if I could. México, from what I can see is pretty open so I could move around here. That's still a risk though, riskier than my current lifestyle, and always the risk of lockdowns kicking back in.

*Who can blame me for wanting to get back on the road?*​





Looking east, The Netherlands are still in lockdown, Ireland will quarantine me if I return! Spain, probably my preferred option (I don't want to lose my Spanish!), won't be the easiest on a bike, and besides, the only consistency about Covid is that that there is no consistency. Planning is a fool's errand.

On the positive side, my Spanish is better, my love and respect for this place has grown far beyond what I ever could have expected and I have been far better off than most for the past year. I have a different perspective of time, have a different perspective on life ...... and death, and have learned the power of a simple smile.

I do not regret a thing from the past year. I consider myself one of the lucky ones. Very lucky ones.

*A brutal day's cycling, a glorious day's touring. The wind was ferocious, making me walk often, the sun was sinking, my anxiety rising inversely, but that sky? Valió la pena - it was worth it!*​





Covid is a b****x, but México's feckin' great!


*Some folks find crossing a desert to be boring. I'm not one of them!*​






*I had not one but two earthquake alarms this past weekend, within 15 hours of each other. Earthquakes still don't jump to the top of the list of important/exciting things to write about! 

***All photos enhanced.

Suggestions on what to do and where to go, all gratefully appreciated! https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Mar 2021)

4 In A Row Champions Day Whatever

It's a strange, strange place this.
Walking around tonight there was a beautiful, yellowish, full moon guiding me along. Not quite a star in the east, and I certainly am not a wise man, but I do think there was some guiding going on.

*Yeah, it's a crap photo, I'm just putting the moon in for posterity.*​





It was Saturday, so my morning was quiet and calm, woken (a bit late) by a brilliantly bright rising sun.
Some coffee, a check of the news, a bit of correspondence and some Spanish practice on Duolingo. Today I've clocked up 365 days in a row! 
Then I went out for a walk before the sun got too hot. 
I've found a little breakfast place that is good, cheap and friendly so I have breakfast out once or twice a week. Then, off to the park to watch it filling up as I listen to my Spanish vocabulary on my headphones. And the dogs! Always the dogs!

Home for 11 am to watch the rugby! Champions again! Not as satisfying as beating England last week, but still pretty good!

The afternoon was too hot to go out (this weekend the forecast is 40-45C, in other parts 45+!) so I did some more Spanish.

Then, as the worst of the heat started to retreat from the day it was time for a wander. 

*Always interesting things to see on a wander.... I found the combination of frame and door intriguing! I was touching the door trying to judge its solidity and thickness when I heard someone on the other side! I scarpered!*​





The traffic was the busiest and craziest I have seen since I got here! At one junction two cops were trying (and failing miserably!) to direct traffic. Pure chaos! The noise! Horns blasting in all directions! It really seemed the two lads had no clue what they were doing. And people were not shy in letting them know! 

There appears to be a lot of Police corruption here and I get the impression that the Police don't have a lot of respect with the people. Women especially.
I did see two cops (men) activate their siren at a young woman crossing the road, once. She turned, and in one of the finest examples of non-verbal communication I have ever seen, raised her finger at them with such a look of disdain and pure, sincere contempt that I'm sure I could hear body parts shrivelling up in the car. I wanted to applaud but I was busy fighting some instinctive urge to cross my legs.
Another day, an old woman shuffling along slowly on a narrow street dropped about 50 years, acquired some kind of vocal amplifier and the vocabulary of a sailor when a Police car drove by too fast for her taste. "Hijos de putas" was the mildest from her mouth, and that's not particularly mild! Her gesticulations would have won a medal at the Olympics had she had ribbons in her hands! 

*I particularly enjoyed this mural on a (double) garage door*​





Leaving the chaos behind, I started wandering the back streets of Coyocán. Not the big, wide, tree lined ones, the narrow, crumbly, tree lined ones. I know these streets, they're like old friends, but they are never the same. The seasons, the light, the trees change continuously. Familiar, yet not. There's always something new to see. 

*On my morning perambulations I finally noticed this! On the one hand I might seem half blind, on the other hand you can't see the rest of the street I've been soaking up for months!*​





Walking slowly it took me a while to hit the old town of Coyocán. It still breaks my heart to see the very centre so restricted. Plazas taped off, benches taped off. A blue sky, the sun beaming from above and the cool shade of the trees is prohibited. It's cruel. And sad.
But, this is México. This doesn't put people off. The whole area was packed! Terraces were full. Couples, families, teenagers, the super trendy and the not at all trendy enjoying themselves, eating, drinking, laughing. There's a lot of laughing and smiling.

*Coyocán may be closed, but elsewhere the fountains are coming back to life. The sounds they add are wonderful! Who doesn't like the sound of flowing water? Then, sometimes there are kids hooping and hollering and dogs in there too.*​





The terraces are squeezing more tables in than even a couple of weeks ago. And people are squeezing themselves in to them.
There is a strange contradiction between the actions of the Government (closed park) and the restaurants and bars (jammed terrases), but contradictions are common here.
That main area of the old town always leaves me a bit sad, so I headed for my old friend, Francisco Sosa. Within a hundred meters all the action was behind me and the only noise was the birds singing in the trees. That sensation of moving so swiftly from frantic to free is the real vibe of this city. 

*Another Church and plaza, bathed in light and shade. *​




*Edited to remove some glare

I stopped for a coffee and a piece of cheesecake at a little coffee shop just as the power went. Hey, what's the rush?

Then I wandered up to the little plaza in front of the church and just sat and absorbed.
Francisco Soza has been adorned with a purple ribbon. 
There have been protests recently against the Government in relation to their inaction on violence against women. I can only assume that Francisco, the great liberal thinker, has been drafted into these protests. Red and purple are the colours of the protests here. 

Strangely, for me, in this country that does have a violence problem and one of violence directed against women, I see little evidence of it, or better said, I see no evidence of fear of it.
Just last night, out for a night time walk (it's cooler then) I met a young woman out with her (small) dog. As we passed her dog expressed interest in snuffling me. I kept on going, conscious we were the only people on the street. She, however, stopped and called me back. Pass up a chance for some doggy time? Not me! 
In all fairness, this is not an unusual experience for me, but last night was noteworthy for the late hour and the fact that we were the only three souls on the street.

*There's something about this building that tickles me. I can't help wonder what it's like inside. It strikes me as the kind of building I could go into and not find my way out for days! *​





These little plazas are great places for me. I can do a little eavesdropping - good for my Spanish - and a little people watching - good for the soul.
Someone helping an old lady out exercising with her walking frame, children squealing with joy playing with a balloon. 
I especially enjoy watching the young couples. There's an excitement, a nervousness in the air. And to my eyes, an innocence, a lack of cynicism, a purity almost, that is refreshing and a tad inspirational. 

It's so easy to pass time here that the sun was long, long gone when I finally roused myself. The moon, referenced at the start, was up and served as my guide.

*One Lady Owner!*​





Eventually, I had to leave the little streets behind and found myself on a wide, busy, ugly street. 

Hungry, I was keeping my eyes open for a place to eat, having skipped the trendy places in the old town. 
There, on that ugly street, was the place. Some tables on the street, fenced off from the noisy traffic with a few plywood crates and a handful of potted grasses. One customer and a guy on guitar with two amps and a stage light. 
To one side was a red, round, domestic Barbeque, the kind with a lid. The kitchen. 

The number one rule in the restaurant business is Location (as are rules two and three) but as I walked past, feeling more pity for their location than hunger I received a smile. Not a false one that restaurant hostesses give (while thinking something else) but a real, genuine, warm and welcoming smile. Through a facemask. I'd walked about 50 meters before it really hit me and I turned around.

There's a whole lot of communication in a smile.

*Walks are always interesting, especially when the path just disappears!*​





I had a baked potato and some beef cooked on the grill - simple but delicious. A beer. Some ice cream. Another beer. And passed a wonderful evening. The terras filled up, there was even a dog! The music was good. And occasionally humourous - he played a bit of "The Ketchup Song", a blast from my old life. 
People passing stopped to listen. Twin girls, no more than two years old were delighted and clapped along.
Street lights were harsh and it should never have felt so comfortable with cars, pickups and motorbikes zipping past. But it did! 

Vast amounts of money are spent on restaurant design and fitting out. Computer systems installed. Sound systems with playlists for all times of the day and different days of the week. Beats per minute set the mood.
Fortunes are spent on lighting systems to create the ideal atmosphere.
This place has worn, stained chairs, uneven tables, not a computer to be seen and the guitarist is using three old, paint stained plastic crates to support his tiny mixing desk. The menu is handwritten on a small blackboard that gets moved from table to table. The lighting is courtesy of the Government. 
And they smile.

At one stage the singer singled me out asking where I was from. What followed was a conversation, his side amplified to the neighbourhood, mine without the same range. I was told I was most welcome, the other customers agreed. He went through his songbook for a song in English (John Lennon's "Imagine") and apologised for not knowing any U2! (His younger brother did!)
Ordinarily such an experience makes my skin crawl, but this is México - normal rules don't apply.
Maybe I'm being conned by most of the people all of the time, but I really don't think so. There's a genuineness here that is not common.

For a place with next to nothing this restaurant has got atmosphere. And a smile. And a new fan!

The only problem? When the time came to leave the moon had long disappeared and I had no idea where I was! 

México - still feckin' great! 

Chat away!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Apr 2021)

Day whatever.....

Sometimes there's a certain serendipity to life. Someone heads off on a bike adventure, a global pandemic strikes and he just happens to be in (probably) the kindest place to be, for example.

An idea occurred to me as I was cycling today to make a list of the things that impress me, that speak to me about this great, sprawling mass of CrazyBeautiful. I wanted to acknowledge the details, the small pieces that come together to form the crazy jigsaw that is this great city.

I was on my way to a big, big park where the roads are quiet, the signs tell motorised traffic to cop on and let cyclists have priority and where I tell myself I'll do many, many laps to improve my fitness. 
Ha! Dumbass! 
It's a park in México! It's got dogs and people - more than enough distractions to encourage a lazy bike tourist to pull up and engage in a bit of observation. And learn a few things too.
Dogs swimming in fountains, kids feeding fish, joggers running with their dogs with various degrees of success, families picnicking, playing and just generally relaxing. 
If that wasn't enough, it's got lakes stocked with fish and various ducks and swans that has to be one of the nicest, calmest, most peaceful and beautiful places to sit down, pull out a kindle and read - and my kindle has been pulled out and read in some pretty special places! 
If reading is too boring, the lakes have man made islands filled with a variety of different trees and plants. Pirate Islands I call them, the kinds of places Pirates of old would have buried their treasure. When I look at them a part of me wants to steal a boat and go digging! (There are boats, all out of bounds - Covid). At the weekend there'll be parties. Families with kids. Piñatas. Lots of food. No drunkenness. The excitement when the piñata bursts? That's something that has to be seen!

*Pirate Islands! *​





So, a list was starting to form in my head as I cycled along. I love checking off lists, however I'm not a fan of making the damn things! As time has gone on, I've really come to dislike Top Ten Lists and the like. It's as if there's a subtle pressure being applied to see/acquire (insert verb as appropriate) the contents of the list. 
"Oh! You went to X?! Did you see Y?" or "Oh you want to Bike Tour? You need A,B & C from ReallyCoolCo." followed by a sense of disapproval when I answer in the negative.
However, I resisted the urge to bin the nascent list because this one will be a bit different, I hope.

The serendipity bit comes into play when I got to the park. I'd had a good morning of Spanish and had promised myself a treat. I'd sat down with a takeaway sandwich and a coke - such a budget bustin' treat! - when I was approached by a tv crew! Yep! Apparently, I'm going to be on Mexican TV tomorrow morning! And I don't even have a tv!**
Being on tv wasn't what got me excited - it was doing a short interview in Spanish and not making a total eejit out of myself!
They were asking for one piece of advice on how to be happy. Mine was very simple - Come to México! (A good friend of mine tells me that she hasn't seen me this happy in a long, long time).
Of course, my advice doesn't really work for a Mexican audience, so I was forced to think on the spot. No pressure! Only millions of viewers! 
"Take a little time every day, for you", I said, swerving away from the second part which would have involved looking for the things to be grateful for, not the things you're not. The verb agradecer, to thank or to be grateful causes me terrible tongue contortions so I chickened out! It was national tv after all!

*My amor, the Palace of Fine Arts, at night, with the beautiful Alameda Central Park.*​





So, now that the long preamble is out of the way, here's part one (I expect more things to be added over time) of the (small) things that make México great.

A few have already been mentioned.
……….
There's the people. 
The smiles.
The trees.
The parks.
The cemeteries.
The wildlife!
The architecture, old, new, dilapidated and not.
El Día de Muertos
The noise - nearly always present but never obtrusive.
The food!
My experience with the immigration folks has been beyond anything I could have expected.

*A tree! I can stop and look at these guys for minutes at a time. Then move to look at it from another angle. It may be a sign that I'm slowly going a bit loopy, but it's also testament to this place that no-one passes any kind of a negative comment nor trys to haul me off and into a straightjacket! *​





The Churches. I went into a modern one the other day, on Vienna Street (Calle Viena). It was big, rectangular and very, very simply decorated by the standards here. 
On either side, three quarters way up the white walls were regular square stained glass windows topped with a semicircle of the glass. Each window contained a figure. That evening, the sun shone brightly through the windows on one side and reflected off the white walls between, but just lower than, the windows on the opposite wall. A slightly vague, but wonderfully coloured representation of the window. Standing alone in such a simple, but amazingly elegant building was a treat! I always wonder at these things, especially in churches, if these effects are planned and designed or are just very happy, very beautiful coincidences.

There's a great advantage to having an international airport in a city - lots of low flying aircraft!
As a kid, I was captivated by planes. Enthralled. I was a regular visitor to the airport saying goodbye to siblings as one after another they all went away. Getting on a plane seemed like the most exciting thing ever! 
As an adult, planes have lost all their allure. Long queues, invasive security, cramped seats. Damage to the planet.
But now? Now there's a constant stream of low flying jets that excite me like I was a kid again! 
Some of them fly very low! They seem to skirt between buildings at times. 
There's a particular park that is directly under the flightpath of landing planes. It's great fun!
At night, the departing planes bank and fly directly over my home. With the navigation lights and a white light on the fuselage it's like a giant Mexican flag flying above me!

There's a street I love to walk and cycle on because of the tree coverage. Traffic is one way and moves a bit crazily at times, but never dangerously when I'm on the bike. Then, for a period of a few weeks there were some roadworks and things got a little …… different.
Think of a roundabout with entries at 6 and 8 o'clock, exits at 4, 1 and 11.
6 is the busiest entry and the roadworks (a big hole) are between 6 and 8. (Remember, traffic goes anti-clockwise on the roundabout).
Traffic entering at 8 o'clock should drive past 6 o'clock but can't (because of the hole).
Instead, they head for 11 (no real problem), or 1 (bigger problem) or 4 (even bigger problem!), effectively going the wrong way around the roundabout.
Are there any signs warning of this? Of course not!
Any special road markings to highlight this? 
Don't make me laugh!
And what happens? 
Absolutely nothing! For the few weeks of the chaos I saw no anger, no frustration, only friendly cooperation. I didn't hear one horn - in a city that is full of them! 
I kid you not, I used to wander down there to watch this. Humanity in action.
Such a thing could never happen in NL, and if it did there would be riots! 

*One evening out for a walk I saw these guys delivering an American style Fridge/Freezer to the appartment on the second floor. Two guys up top, one at the bottom, they just pulled it up.*​





I find the names of streets to be very outward looking. 
In Coyocán there are streets named Paris, London, Berlin, Vien(n)a, Madrid and these are elegant, beautiful streets. There's a section of the city where I can wander all 50 of the U.S. states. They name streets for Doctors here, something that I find significant in these times where there seems to be a growing anti-intellectualism. They have a street named for Pythagoras! When I first saw it, I had an almost Pavlovian nervous reaction! His theorem featured prominently in my life in the run up to my inter cert exams. It featured regularly on the exams, which was supposed to be a good thing - easy marks, but was also a potential trap if I fecked it up! Back in those days, a fear of feckin' up was bred and battered into me.
One day, meandering, I came across Oscar Wilde Street, a literary and human hero of mine. He's in an area with all the great writers. He connects with Virgil (Virgilio) and Jules (Julio!) Verne. He runs onto a beautiful park. Without a lockdown, the area is filled with restaurants, cafés and bars, most with the most wonderful terraces, marked out with moveable, potted palm trees and ferns. I can't help but think that Oscar would approve. 
(There are at least two Esperanza streets (the Spanish for Hope). Given that Oscar's mother wrote fiery, nationalistic rhetoric under that name I like to think that the Wilde family is well represented in CDMX! The Señoritas are exceptionally pretty too - something his father, a known philanderer, would appreciate!)
The Park, filled as it is with outstanding examples of Nature and some accessible art would be an ideal place for him to be inspired and to write some more children's stories (if you haven't read his kid's stories you're missing out!).

*"Oscar's" Park*​





There's an Irish Martyr's Street that I found to be quite moving, more for the name and the stories attached than the actual street. (That's a whole other post).
As my Spanish has improved, so has my understanding of street names. There is an "Enchanted Street". Come on!! Who wouldn't want to live on Enchanted Street if they could???!

I witnessed a protest one Monday morning. Out on the bike I was on the scene as the dual carriageway that is Avenida de Reforma was blocked by a group of women and children holding banners.
Indigenous people, they were advocating for their own area in the city for workshops and shops as promised by the Government.
It's a busy, important road and traffic quickly backed up. 
One old driver was very irate and had no qualms about getting in the face of an old woman. Something told me that she'd seen a lot worse than Mr Irate.
There were no camera crews, no reporters. They weren't even recording themselves. (A freelance team eventually showed up and judging by the fistbumps they gave the plainclothes Police they weren't called by the protesters).
Drivers took it upon themselves to turn around and find alternative routes. Police sirens could be heard back down the road as the Police started diverting further back.
In a relatively short space of time it was just the protesters, Police, pedestrians on their way to work and the occasional, errant car.
I saw one driver get out of his car, scan the crowd and approach one lady protester. Body language was civilised and respectful. He talked, she listened. Eventually she nodded, he returned to his car and he was permitted past.
Another driver seized his chance, but with no visible communication the protesters stretched and blocked him. He too got out of his car. His body language (and tone) was not respectful or civilised. A Police Officer put him straight. He reversed away.
Artisan crafts are big here, both as a statement of Indigenous pride and as a way for the poor, normally indigenous, to survive. Frida Kahlo, herself, was a strong advocate and helped to develop the idea. It would be very easy to imagine a fiery Frida standing arm in arm with these protesters.
Unfortunately, there was no Frida, nor anyone like her. 
There was a stubborn defiance in the protest but no strategy. 
Passersby were bemused, drivers resigned. None were convinced of the merits because no one was explaining them.
There were no collection buckets, no pamphlets or flags or stickers that people could take with them as a show of support.
Within 20-30 minutes there were only Protesters and Police. 
At least the Police seemed to be in no rush to move them on.

*I kid you not! Sunday morning, I spotted this guy crossing the road with his boss and two dogs. Into the park they went, lots of dogs. Did any dog bother the pig? Not a one.*​





And then, there's this……





If you look at the road you'll see a series of cat's eyes running out from the kerb then back in again. These are a common feature along one particular section of road here, often including cyclist clobbering rubber poles at their widest point, (here it's at the start) but vary in width and length from one to the other.
They are potentially lethal for the distracted cyclist! 
Not being the smartest tool in the box, these have bugged me for months and occasionally have scared the bejaysus out of me when I'm distracted, don't see them until the last moment with a bus on my ass. 
So, one day, I stopped and had a look for the bigger picture. The gift of time!
Where a tree grows out onto the road and is in danger of colliding with a bus one of these "traffic management" bicycle death traps is deployed to divert the bus around the tree. 
Stop and think about that for a moment. 
They go to this trouble to protect the tree! 
Perhaps I'm wrong, but I think in just about any other place the tree would have been firewood years ago.

A little girl walking in a park with her parents is enamoured by a show-offy handbag dog trotting past her. The dog has no time for her, a look of disdain only for the child. His boss, an older man walking with his wife notices all this, stops, bends down and picks up the mutt. Now he waddles on his hunkers to the little girl, primadonna dog captive in front of him. Little girl has her day made and I watched the dog closely - turns out he was happy with all the attention too.

*Just one of the memorials to Irishmen who died fighting for México.*​






There are a lot of problems in this city. 
A lot.
Yet there is so much good to see and to feel as well.
I can go down "roads" that have twenty years worth of digging, refilling and neglect, yet money is spent to divert buses around trees.
The churches may be crumbling outside, but inside they are always spic and span. It's always a man keeping it clean. Sometimes they talk, sometimes not. All are proud. Pay them a compliment and their smiles match the windows.
A protest that shuts down one of the main thoroughfares and the business district? Life adapts and works around it. Displays of anger are rare. 
Roadworks at the roundabout? A time for a bit of understanding. The horns will be active again at the next set of lights, though, if you're not already rolling on green! But for a little bit of time, just a little bit, when some understanding and cooperation is needed, it's there. 
And it's not just little girls wanting to play with a dog that get noticed. It's not possible to feel invisible here. In a city this big? That's not nothing!






México is feckin' great!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Apr 2021)

Day whatever.......

In the 80's México City was one of the most polluted cities in the world. Strict controls limiting vehicle access seems to have improved things. A common complaint among European expats are chest and lung issues brought about by poor air. I haven't noticed too much. 
Until that Sunday.
Out for a ride on my bike and out of nowhere, it seemed, the air was dense.
It seemed like one moment I was breathing normal, hot, slightly sticky city air, then the next, something different was filling my lungs. Then me.
I could feel it spreading out through my body, down to my toes, out to my fingertips and when it reached my head I felt a little dizzy.

Alegría.

There has been precious little written about riding a bike here, more than a tad ironic in a travelogue on a cycling forum!
The thought butts up against my conscious mind on a semi-regular basis that for the length of time since I rolled out of T-town in the flatlands of NL an ever increasing proportion of time is non-cycling time. Perhaps that makes me a bit of a fraud!

*An early morning bike ride is a great way to see firsthand the beauty of sunlight*​





My recent clumsiness notwithstanding, I have taken significant breaks from the bike here. The rainy season is not pleasant to cycle in. There's a force to the falling rain that has to be experienced! More boringly, afterwards, floods, blocked drains and waterlogged potholes add significantly to the entertainment, excitement, risk or danger - choose your own description! It is an interesting dry day exercise to note all the holes in the road, half covered drains, fully uncovered drains, and then calculate how much of a bike, and sometimes rider, one of these could swallow when covered by water!

Physically, I suffered from a nasty, migrating saddle sore. I've never really had this problem before, despite not using padded shorts since I first started touring.
Micro saddle adjustments just seemed to make the bugger swap sides. It was very persistent and very uncomfortable, even when not on the bike. 
After about 2 months off the bike, and just before the last lockdown here (December), I popped into Decathlon and got some padded shorts. 
Yuck! I have no idea how people wear these! It's like wearing a (full) adult nappy.
They made not a jot of difference!

*Just one road in the Bosque de Chapultepec, a humungous park in the city. I'd spent months wandering around, only to discover there was a second, bigger part!*​





As it turned out, the problem is less to do with the bike and more to do with the one seat I have in the apartment. An old faux leather office chair, with padding long compressed to nothing, was the main culprit! Due to a disparity between chair and desk height I favoured one cheek, developed a sensitive spot, compensated to the other cheek and the sensitive spot migrated! 

Another reason not to cycle so much is that walking is a far more pleasant pace to fully appreciate the city, the people and the dogs. Of course, some areas are horribly cobbled too, and best explored on foot - carefully!

Finally, there's the fear of bike theft! A global pandemic hasn't finished this little adventure off yet - a stolen bike? Quite probably. Paranoia? Perhaps but the size and thickness of some of the chains used to secure battered, ancient mountainbikes here have to be seen to be believed.

So, post Christmas in a drive to acquire at least some bike fitness I started going out much more frequently on the bike. 






I will invariably create a route - cycle.travel now has full functionality in México!! - but I rarely follow them, unless needing to cross some particularly dense traffic. 
There are so many streets to see and to feel that meandering by feeling is perfectly acceptable. Having said that, there are certain streets that I always take simply because they are covered in the most delicious variety of trees and cycling under them is a treat that should never, EVER be taken for granted. This meandering means that other than asstime on the saddle, I'm not exactly building up any endurance. Training? 

So, how does one navigate "by feel" with a sense of direction as twisted as mine?

One is NBD - Navigate by Dog. Simply put, if I see an interesting dog, whether running loose beside his Boss, attached to the Boss' bike or even sometimes in a Boss' backpack or basket(!) I'll follow for a while! It is a very worthwhile exercise that really demonstrates the bond between human and beast and the wider society and beast. 
Given that bikes break lights and laws with impunity here, it's hardly surprising that bikes plus dogs do the same! What gets me every time is how unconcerned everyone else is with the transgression.
There is something special about seeing man (or woman) and beast flowing together, understanding each other amidst all the craziness that is this city.
The other day I was tailing a guy on a bike with a fine, fit dog tied on to a spring attachment on the bike. I couldn't keep up because I'm (still) far more likely to stop for a red light and their weaving between all the obstacles a bike ride here presents was far more fluid than anything I could manage.
Time and time again I am amazed at how all the sights, sounds and smells of this heaving, magical metropolis have zero effect on a cycling combo. 

*Navigation by Sun!*​





Depending on the day, I may also NBS, where S refers to Sun or Shade depending on the temperature. It's a great way to get around! I never know where I'm going to end up! 
Then there's NBP. Simply, cycle until I see a park, explore, absorb then move on to the next one. There is always another one. Each park has its own character. I am charmed.
Another is NBSp, cycling until I see a Church Spire. Sometimes it can be a challenge to locate the actual church, often losing sight of the spire the closer I get. Ever decreasing circles is the key, but it's easy to be distracted.
Sharpen the pitchforks! One day I NBTd, where T is a tattoo. There is a lot of bodyart on display here, with heavy emphasis on art. Some of it is striking! I noticed a woman with a slit down the back of her top. As she cycled it opened to reveal a large round tattoo slightly below her shoulderblades. Black ink on nutbrown skin - it was captivating. I followed her for a while marvelling at the beauty of her artwork and trying to understand what it represented. 
It's probably a good thing I'm alone here - I'd probably drive someone else demented!

*Navigation by Spire*​





The actual riding is quite good! I'm not a great one for city cycling and generally see it as something to suffer through on my way to somewhere else ….. unless I can do it very, very early in the morning! 
Paris as the sun comes up is like another city! Pamplona at dawn casts a spell and watching grumpy pilgrims stream past while I enjoy a café con leche is a nice way of giving a metaphorical two fingers to some of the Pilgrims who see cyclists as the spawn of Satan. 
Yes, surfaces can be crap, bike lanes can be filled with parked cars or trucks, rules are flexible, but this is México! Things are going to be different! Despite being many times the size of Mazatlán, CDMX hasn't come close to the craziness that I witnessed there!

If it hasn't become clear yet, I'm finding México to be a very friendly and welcoming place, even this huge city and even on a bike.

It became particularly obvious to me the days I attempted to cycle with my agony arms - waving and saluting is such a normal part of travel here (it applies to walking too!).
A busy junction, no traffic lights? Someone will stop and let me through. That requires a wave!
A car attempting to break a light, sees me, stops and reverses? That requires one too!
The guy in a pickup truck with a gas tank mounted in the bed, his truck and tank covered in stickers warning of catastrophic doom by explosion and fire, smiles cheekily at me as he breaks a light and pulls out in front of me, gets a wave and a good, hearty laugh.
At a busy junction, a motorbiker, with a passenger larger and wider than himself, who had overshot the stop line and was trying to balance while manoeuvring his laden machine backwards got a wave and a sympathetic smile.

Again, again and again there are so many micro, fleeting connections with people to be enjoyed on a bike. 

*Navigation by Shade*​





But back to Alegría. 

It was a Sunday and I'd decided to venture across town to see the Pyramid of Tenayuca. Traffic has picked up a lot recently, so Sunday is the best day for adventures on unfamiliar roads. I'd meandered past the Old Town and was heading North on still familiar roads when I noticed a lot of bikes on the far side of the dual carriageway I was riding on. 
My side wasn't great for cycling unless you're the kind of cyclist who likes uncovered rain drains (about half a meter wide and 3 or 4 long), collectivo bus passengers hopping on and off in front of me and all the usual potholes, dips and drops. Seeing a lady directing traffic I popped across to have a chat. Thus was my introduction to Alegría. 

*I did, finally, make it to the Pyramid, fenced off, the accompanying museum closed. But the little Park beside it? Heavenly!*​





Every Sunday, from 8am to 2pm the City Government hands over 23 prime kilometres of street to cyclists. Volunteers and Police man the junctions, access roads are taped off, volunteer tents are set up approximately 4 or 5km apart for repairs. 
And the world comes!
Bikes of all shapes, sizes, brands, styles and noises are present. Ditto the people. Grannys out getting their exercise, dads teaching junior to ride. Mamá jogging while daughter pedals beside her. There are rollerbladers, joggers and strollers too. 
There's music - there are always a few cyclists with a speaker of some sort - just work your way through the crowd until you find a station to your taste!

*The world comes......*​





Of course, there are dogs too! Dogs in baskets, sitting serenely, as if this is their due, dogs on leads trotting obediently beside their bosses, never once being fazed by all the activity around them. Dogs loose, just as well behaved, a stern, unwavering focus on their boss. Even dogs in trailers. 
Special mention to the sausage dog, in a basket, facing his boss, paws resting on the handlebars. With the long body of the breed it looked unnatural but pet and servant seemed happy with the situation, or another, breed undetermined, transported in a menagerie of straps on his boss's chest. Head and legs free he seemed delighted with himself as they sailed past me.

*And they bring their dogs!*​





At the junctions where traffic crosses, the volunteer, usually female, has a stop/go sign and once stopped a little pep talk about wearing a mask, washing hands, obeying the rules. Invariably as pleasant at the end of the day as at the start. Say "Gracias" as you go by and in return you'll get a beaming smile, a "De nada" and some wish to have a great day. 
At the bigger junctions the volunteer may have a megaphone and a couple of helpers to unroll a big banner emphasising Covid safety.
(I did have a look online when I arrived in the city, but the Sunday cycling was suspended due to Covid. At that time, I thought it was an organised ride (or rides) and thought that wasn't really my thing.) Ha! Dumbass!

So, I joined this slightly chaotic flow of cyclists thinking that it was a more comfortable route than my own. When the time came to turn off I didn't even try. The current carried me along to the end, the Cathedral of the Virgin of Guadalupe where I promptly turned around and headed for the other end.

I smile a lot here.
Cycling here has a far higher "smile per mile" ratio than anywhere I've ever cycled before. But on Sundays? The smiles are off the scale. 
I'd pull in and fumble with my phone as if to take a photo but really I was watching a little girl wobble along after her dad had removed her stabilisers. Fear changing to joy to pride on her little beaming face over the space of 100 meters.
Or the two guys rollerblading, a husky trotting behind, a doggy rucksack with his poop bags and his own water attached.
Wincing as a guy pedalled past, his bike creaking, groaning and screaming in all kinds of protest.
The little fella on the side of the road throwing a tantrum because he'd had enough. His parents letting him vent until he threw his little bike on the ground. He knew as soon as he did it that it was a step too far.
The very little lad on a tricycle, pedals on the front wheel, a tipper on the back, pedalling for all he was worth, grinning from ear to ear.
Entire families on a menagerie of bikes, older siblings directing the younger ones. 
I tucked in behind a Papá and his daughter, maybe 8 or 9. They were chatting away, or, to be more accurate, she was chatting away, her voice animated and full of passion while he seemed to struggle to get his own word in.
Moving on, Mother and daughter cycled in a line, Mamá behind. Despite a look of intense concentration, daughter was prone to weave this way and that - not an unusual thing in this group - only to receive a bark from Mamá. As I passed I made a point to thank the young lady for pulling over and couldn't help but notice the contrast between two little girls of similar ages, one happily cycling along chatting, the other intense, focused and under observation.
Of course, there's at least one Crazy Guy! He rides around on a bike seemingly made from cheap Chinese flashing lights, cheap Chinese speakers blasting whatever takes his fancy and held together with various bags strapped on. There's a bike under there somewhere but identification is difficult! When I first saw him he had one flag, now it's three and his latest gizmo is some kind of microphone which means that his bike is now a mobile karaoke machine.
I stopped to watch a father trying to teach his son, about 10, to ride. It was not going well. The little lad was quite overweight and was struggling to stay balanced. His father jogged beside, arm out, offering support. Eventually, too much, the young lad stopped and started to walk his bike, head down. His father took the other side of the bike and put an arm around a sagging shoulder.
I followed a young couple for a while on the rented city bikes. He was all dressed up for a date, wearing black slacks, a maroon, dress shirt and impossibly shiny brown, leather shoes. She was far more casual, in a strappy top, Levi's and comfy, well-worn, white Converse. He did not look comfortable at all, desperate, I thought, not to break a sweat, she, on the other hand was relaxed and smiley. Not a word exchanged between them. 

*One end of the 23km cycle route; The Cathedral of the Virgin of Guadalupe*​





That's the thing - people talk to each other as they ride - even to me! It's more difficult than you'd think what with keeping an eye all around and the facemasks, but cycling along is just like anything else in this city - strangers are included.

Alegría.

alegría(ah-leh-gree-ah)
FEMININE NOUN
1. (emotion) joy
a. joy
b. happiness
2. (irresponsibility)
a. recklessness

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (2 May 2021)

Day BlahDiDahDiDah

I sometimes wonder about myself, if I'm descending into some cavern of madness or dementia. I'm sure that some of my meanderings on here have caused some ocular distress as eyes rolled around in heads. 
I don't think anything in here is going to disprove that thought.

I needed a focus, or to refocus, at least. I needed to ask myself the "why" again at this stage of my trip. 
The why is quite simple, at least on the superficial level - because I can and because I know I'll regret it if I don't. I enjoy travelling around on my bike. Not all the time. The swearing on hills is proof, but as a way of seeing the world? Of feeling it? Of tasting it? There's no better way.

That much really hasn't changed since I rolled out of T-town. 

Let's be honest here, this is not some long held dream, inspired by seeing pictures of a person on a bike in exotic places when I was a gasún (little boy). I don't yearn to photo Roccado and whatever of my travelling menagerie survive at the Ushuaia sign. I just like travelling by bike.
When push comes to shove, given my condition a couple of weeks before departure I should be grateful for every mile travelled - and I am. I'm very feckin' lucky!

Had my original plans of a few years ago not fallen through, I'd probably be at home now, my big, big adventure completed. I often think about that and have a good old smile. 
At the time it was a tremendous hit to the guts in lots of ways. Now? Not so much.

*The Mexican Job!*​





My first "tour" was in 2013, along the Danube, my "stuff" being bussed from hotel to hotel. 
Almost eight years later, here I am, all my worldly goods on my bike (and one box in a friend's attic in NL) in México in the middle of a global pandemic. One way to look at it is a disaster. Another way? Just look at where I've been, all the experiences I've had. Nothing disasterous about those (in the main!)

So what do I want to do or where do I want to go?
According to my rough list there is the Trampoline of Death in Colombia and that's that. But that is what was on my list when I set off. Is there anything else? 
The only other thing that I can think of is to use my Spanish. There's got to be more, right?

Once I had rolled out of San Antonio I had pretty much checked off my list. A famous road in México*, another in Colombia. Ushuaia, El Fin de Mundo is still the destination, but that's not a driving urge. It's something to aim for (and Lord knows I need something to aim for!) but it's the journey that counts. 

*Jeez! Reading that back it sounds so mundane, so boring. That climb was so, so tough, but so, so beautiful! (Hobbes has a great place to adventure in!) And that descent! One of the great thrills of my life!! And that little town at the bottom where I felt so comfortable? What a wonderful few days! 

*This ramshackle menagerie just keeps growing! I need a name for this guy! Suggestions please!*​





I'm in the middle of a poker game and I have an opportunity to stop and reassess. I can stick, fold or (since I make up the rules of this game) buy a whole new hand although feckin' Covid still has a say. Time for some thinking!

Years ago, I spent a long time tracking down a famous book written in the 60's (I think) by a famous American Ad copywriter (can't remember his name now!). His book, apparently, was the key to generating good ideas.
I bought a copy on eBay after a long search and dived right in with the enthusiasm of a kid unwrapping gifts on Christmas morning.
I threw the book away. 
I couldn't, in good conscience, resell it. His advice was:
Read about the subject from as many different vantage points as possible (I'm sure in an Internet age we can expand "read")
Distract yourself by doing other things, using your brain, this allows the subconscious to work.
The ideas just arrive.

Yep! That's it! I paid a feckin' fortune for "the ideas just arrive"!

So I took to my Spanish with much gusto, distracting my brain, addling my brain, tying it up in knots.

And I waited. And waited some more. Nothing was coming. In a country famous for the traveller's curse I appeared to be suffering from a form of constipation.
"Time" seemed to be causing the blockage. First of all time was counting down. I hadn't really noticed this before. Secondly, my brain kept returning to "Here by this time then there by that time". 
From somewhere, a large clock has appeared in my mind, its ticking felt, not heard, and anything in the shadow of that clock isn't just gloomy, but sinister.
Where the feck did that come from? And how the hell do I send it back to wherever it came from?

*Boo!*​





Once again, CDMX delivered.

I didn't see Tabare, I saw his bike. A cycle tourist's bike, moderately packed, well travelled. Or maybe it was the handmade "registration plate" sign at the back that said "Uruguay to Alaska".

Confession Time! The previous week, bikeless, in Parque México I had spotted a tall, slender guy, wearing a Dutch football top and straddling a shiny, red Surly Disk Trucker (for non-cycling folk, the Surly Trucker is the bike for long bike adventures) I noted (with a little shock at my judgement) his very skinny tyres and thought "nah, not for me". I was on foot and thinking about going over to introduce myself. I mean no offence to the chap, but there was something too neat, too ordered about him that gave me pause. Also, I was reluctant to have a Dutch/English conversation. (I chatted to a Dutch friend a while ago and for a week Dutch words kept popping out of my mouth!) Overthinking, as it turned out because once he had his photo he was off. As is the way with these things, once the decision was made for me, I was disappointed in the result. 
I spent the next couple of hours looking for him without success. (Online stalking turned up nothing either).

So, when cycling slowly through the park beside the still oh-so-beautiful Palace of Fine Arts I saw this bike and reflexively stopped.

One of my better moves.

There's a guy who posts on an American forum. A helpful guy who never misses the opportunity to post pictures. In his pictures, his (and family's) bikes are immaculate, matching Ortliebs, clothes to match. Not the Nuclear Family - the Co-ordinated Family! 
I always thought I was the poster child for the unco-ordinated bike tourist - not anymore!

*What's a touring bike? Well, this one has suspension, a basket that swings wildly from left to right, brakes as soft as Kerrygold left out in the hot Mexican sun. And four exciting years on roads of all types. *​





Tabaré, from Uruguay was sitting on a bench with a friend. He was just starting his fifth year on the road. Yep! Year number 5! 

Originally, his idea was to cycle to Panama from Uruguay. Arriving in Panama, he thought he'd keep going through Central America. Having done that, Alaska is next. And he's already talking about crossing the Bering Strait, Russia, Mongolia and down to India!

I had a moment of kinship with folks I met in Georgia unable to compute my plan to go to Nashville!

There's a romance to his story that is just so hard to resist. He loves riding his bike, knows next to nothing about maintaining it! 
He goes where he wants, criss crossing in a way that would drive efficiency experts to a breakdown. When he needs money he works, then moves on. He lives like a vagabond but bristles at the idea he's poor.

There's an easy gentleness to him that draws people to him, and probably tempers some of their worst instincts. His bike has been stolen twice - each time he got it back. He's had at least three phones stolen and is quick to blame himself for leaving them accessible.
He has a book - of which I am now a proud owner - covering his travels from Uruguay to México. It's not a travelogue, giving a day by day account, rather each chapter is a story from his travels. I'm savouring it.

It's cheaply produced, the photos, especially, are quite poor - think black and white photocopies of photocopies of faxes - but within the soft covers is pure magic! It is soaked in inspiration. It is radiating learning. It's at times terrifying, at others as comforting as a dog nuzzling on your lap. It has feck all to do about bicycles and everything to with travel, people, goodness, the intangibles of life, humanity. 

Of course we compared notes on our travels. I was like a child at Christmas with a new toy wanting to use it all the time. My toy? Spanish! 
(Spanish is an amazing language for sheer range! Starting in the US, with a bit of Spanish I can communicate with people in their own language all the way down to the very tip of Argentina! Compare that to Europe!)
Covid has hit him hard, limiting working options, but not his travel. He has been moving around the whole time. Depending, as he is, on goodwill, he has different decisions to me. 
I can't help but think what a bright, warm and caring light it shines on México that he has been able to thrive and survive here. 

*400 days de-toured or 400 days of preparation? I know which one I choose!*​




Thanks to @IaninSheffield for "de-toured"

I suppose the idea of travelling around during a Pandemic has a moral element to it. Recently, a dental surgery in Spain (possibly the Canaries) was inundated with appointments from Irish people, all looking for a proof of appointment to evade travel restrictions. Now, that's pretty morally reprehensible. 
Tabaré didn't mention any negativity and he really doesn't have many options. 

His attitude is infectious - best summed up as "hit the road - everything will work out". Yes, there's something of the blind optimist to him! 
A few scary incidents in Central America and he knows from people there that Peru and Ecuador are bad due to Covid. Very bad. His face bright, his eyes shining since I met him, visibly darkened when he said that. 

As if to highlight the differences between us, he rattled off the places I needed to pass through to get to Guatemala as if they were members of his family or old friends. I struggle to list the places I've visited in anything close to the correct order!
He continued on my route to Panama, where I should take a year off! On the one hand, it sounded crazy and bizarre, on the other it was pretty much what he had done in reverse.
That easy grasp of geography is the first time I've felt envious of anyone in quite a while. (Last year, in fact, two father son travelogues in quick succession here & here)

I spoke to his friend who seemed a little dazed by him. 
Tabaré is not a foolish man. His bike, his sign, in a busy park in the centre of México city was an invitation to people. 
I watched a woman peel off from her friends to approach him. Nicaraguan, she had a Uruguayan boyfriend and had to call him to tell him of the Uruguayan she had just met. She declined the chance to buy a book but I'm willing to bet others didn't. 
After she left, he pointed to a chapter in his book about her home town - and not a complimentary one! What a teeny, tiny world we inhabit sometimes!

It's difficult to describe what a spirit lifting experience it was. Another guy on a bike! Not just living his dream, but immersing himself in it, bathing in it. 

His book details how his planning has changed since he set off with little in the way of experience but a lot in the way of enthusiasm.
To paraphrase:
I'll cycle 80 km every day, Monday to Friday and relax on Saturdays and Sundays. I'll dance every weekend, I love to dance.
He's danced three times in 4 years!

He's not fazed or bothered by time. When his visitor permit was close to expiry he left his bike with friends and hopped on a train to the Southern Border. On the roof! Roasting days, freezing nights. And he wasn't alone up there.
Invited by people to stay with them at a hotel on the beach, by the time he arrived they had long, long gone.

One of the greatest joys of travelling on a bike is the ability to live in the moment, to savour the present, the here and now. I reckon Tabaré has become the master of that!

This is his website. http://tabarealonso.com
It's in Spanish, but I'm sure most browsers can translate now.
If inclined, you can buy a copy of his book. I believe it's in PDF format so that means non Spanish speakers will need to translate "by hand"? There are a lot worse things to spend a few quid on.
Here's a newspaper article. https://www.zenger.news/2021/04/02/tabare-alonso-de-uruguay-a-alaska-en-bicicleta/

In his book, he talks about his youth, a bad, disruptive student, a poor, frustrating son until a teacher hung up a map of the world - an amazing sight to a boy in a small village in Uruguay. Captivated, he engaged positively with his teacher, for possibly the first time, who reciprocated in kind. (What a switched on teacher!) Gentle exhortations of what study could do for a boy and specifically, where it could bring him made an impression and a change in attitude. Now he visits schools as often as he can to try to reach those like his younger self..

I still didn't know what to do, but I had a whole different perspective explained in inspirational detail.

*Doggy Swimming *​





I met Javier (name changed because he may read this) at a restaurant. It's one of those in Coyocán that has been on my hit list since I arrived. 
I'd had a "blind" breakfast - I had no idea what I was getting (fabulous, if spicy!) - had paid up and was getting ready to leave when we started to chat.
Where was I from, what was I doing here. The usual. 
But the reaction wasn't usual. It was like I'd spliced open an electric cable and wired him up! His eyes blazed!
He listened, he asked questions all the time his eyes becoming wider and brighter. 
Hooked! 
He worried about the cost. I told him Roccado was a basic MTB, the wrong side of 20 and these types of bikes were everywhere. A lot of money wasn't needed.
He worried about being physically able to do it. I patted my ample belly, reminded him of my request for an ashtray and said "If I can do it…..".
He worried about safety. Again, I told him where I had travelled, sin Español, knowing not a soul in the land and had no problems.
Later, I sent him links to CGOAB en español. 
Sometimes, someone else's enthusiasm can rub off on us.

*Since I arrived, that tall tower has been my landmark to get home- when I can see it! *​





Another evening, at Alex's place, a man in a suit was helping out. (I'm glad to say that business is picking up a bit for him). I've no idea who he was, but he knew of me and was all chat. Until I started mentioning the places I've been. 
He was appalled! Michoacán is too dangerous! I agreed that the roads were dire. No! No! The crime! 
It so happens, that one of my favourite photos is of a backroad in Michoacán. I showed him. 
The poor man nearly had a heart attack! No! No! Too dangerous!
He meant well, had no bad intentions, and I wasn't bothered in the least. It was just a timely reminder that from here, over there can seem a pretty dangerous place.

*Backroad Michoacán. The travel advisories don't relate to the surface😊*​





After meeting a man with no sense of time, a young fella with all the time in the world in front of him and someone who showed me that what's sinister over there often isn't when you're actually there my clock stopped ticking. 
The Gothic grandfather clock beating out a malevolent rhythm shrank and slowly faded away…….

México! It's feckin' great (and Uruguay must be worth a visit too!)

*Stretching some wings.....*​





I'm hitting the road again! It may not be the smartest thing I'll ever do, but I won't know unless I try.

The next update will actually be about riding the bike to a new place!😍

*Checking out the tent in a park. I've done this a few times in NL - twice had the Police pay me a visit and once some gobs**** stopped to tell me I was doing it all wrong. Not in CDMX! *​





Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (5 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, May 3, 2021, The Greatest City in the World (CDMX) to Tepoztlán 76km, Total KM 76
Min meters 1736, Max Meters 3042
Total Climb 924 Total Descent 1420
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 36
Ave Temp 24

** I'm not bothering to count the days because this will be a different type of "touring". I've reset the Total km to 0. And I've included temperatures!


You know the way this little adventure is titled? The clear implication is that some external force regularly interferes and fecks up my plans.
I spent a good portion of today contemplating that sometimes, maybe, just maybe, it might not all be the man/woman upstairs. Is it possible I sometimes have a rôle to play? Moi?

In fairness, whoever looks after the weather did it right. An early thunderstorm on Sunday evening dumped a load of water, but cooled the city and freshened it, just in time for one last wander.

Waking up at 3:30 was too early. Back to sleep. Waking up again at 5:30 was more like it. I was 98% packed, had a few chores to do and hit the road with the sun - these days about 7am.
It's been a long time since I was so nervous! 

Something was bugging me in the manner of something rolling over and back just outside my vision. 
Things_ were_ rolling over and back in my vision, I just wasn't processing! Traffic!
This Monday departure fell into place a few weeks ago. According to the Web it's a holiday in México - the perfect day to cycle a bike out of an urban area of 20 odd million people. (A Sunday would work too, but there was a rugby match yesterday! The less said about that the better!)
Now, if anything, it seemed busier than normal!

What is it with me and plans? 

I watched with growing horror as the traffic increased, even before the sun was up. This was not ideal. Much more than "not ideal"! CDMX is a pretty big place. Getting in and out on a bike is not the easiest. 

Oh well!

I was leaving about 8 am. I knew my route - I had been trying different options the last few weeks - but there was only one "unknown" - would they let me on the Cuota (toll road?)

It took less than 2km for my first "Cycling in México is not like cycling in other places" experience - at traffic lights, an older couple were all chat! Welcoming me, wishing me well. I set off again with a big, bright smile.

I needed it! The roads were pretty big, busy and with water on the sides. Lots of patience required.







Crossing lanes was tricky, but doable. Soon I found myself on the motorway, the start of a long climb and thinking that it hadn't been such a bad exit. 

It was about 10:30 when I got to the Toll Plaza, about 17km so far. I stayed to the edge, hopped up on the path when it became available and adopted a confident "I do this all the time" shuffle. My heart fell when a guy stared at me from one of the booths, headed for the path and strode purposefully towards me. He turned into the office building and I breathed a sigh of relief. I'd been so focused on him that I missed the National Police officer in his paramilitary uniform. I noticed him when he pointed out the best place to dismount from the path (they are all very high!).

Thunderbirds were go!

I rolled out of the huge post toll area and joined the road. Downhill!! That was a surprise! No traffic worth talking about, I took the lane and flew down. Loaded, on the bike, an empty road, adventure ahead of me - I may have whooped a few times! 

When the descent levelled off I pulled in. I was in the countryside for the first time in almost a year! Above me the Libre sounded busy. It has no shoulder and sounded like lots of traffic - I was glad to be on the Cuota. 
CDMX was behind that hill. I whispered a goodbye to a city that has been just so unbelievably wonderful to me.

*Back on the road! A moment to be grateful and appreciative of where I was leaving, and now that my nervousness was gone, a moment to appreciate the adventure about to start!*​





I had planned to plug in my (unused for months) speaker and dull the pain of the climb with some tunes, but as it turned out, the sounds of engines, big and small, new and ancient and the sound of tyres rolling on the road are the soundtrack of touring. I'd missed them!

The rest of the day was straightforward. Climb about 20km to an Oxxo, then descend all the way to Cuernavaca. Tim Tower had done this route and he always leaves pretty good details. 

Just as I was about to set off again I spotted a dog trotting along the shoulder. He was a long way from home! I waited for him to catch up to me, but his only response was a curious look and he was off into the bushes.

Jeez! I'm out of shape!! The climb was tough! The sun was hot but a wind dulled its worst. 

The issue was the shoulder. Sometimes it was there, sometimes not. Sometimes it was crap and sometimes the same surface as the road. This would be an issue all day. 
It's weird the comfort a white line on the road can give. There's a lot of work going on on this road and for large parts of the day a whole new surface hadn't been marked. That meant that I was "in the lane". Without the white line it was difficult to judge how close upcoming traffic was going to pass. 

*Sometimes there was a shoulder - I just couldn't use it!*​





At one stage it was down to one lane with no shoulder at all. One driver pulled up beside me, told me I was doing great, that he'd hold the traffic for me! Buoyed, I took the lane for 500 meters or so until I ran out of puff. It was a constant climb! I pulled off again and got a big cheer from my new friend. I weaved along slowly until the road opened up again.

I stopped regularly. All I needed was shade and a barrier. I was finding it tough going. I was surprised at the temperature - Gizmo was reading cooler than I expected, but I could feel the sun burning me. A hefty wind was playing its part.
The landscape rarely opened up but that's not to say it was unpleasant. I was back on the road!

*The landscape opening up. Valleys looked fertile, if dry, waiting for the rainy season perhaps? Any day now! *​







Once, when stopped, looking back where I came from, I got an awful fright when someone spoke to me! A cyclist, cycling the wrong way on the Cuota pulled in to ask if I was ok! México! And there was me worried if they'd let me on! At least I was on the right side of the road! 

I made it to the Motorway Services by 13:30 and they were, to my way of thinking, very unMexican. Very modern, bright, shiny, organised they missed a quintessential piece of México - a place to sit in the shade. 
There was a little cafe/restaurant, but it only had seats in the full blast of the sun. I went to the Oxxo, got a sandwich and a cold drink and sat on the ground outside it. 
When the sun moved and my ass couldn't take any more I got up and found another spot. 
I'd been looking forward to this stop. According to Tim, this was pretty much the top of the climb - all down hill afterwards. All the way to Cuernavaca! The wind picked up and that lead to a mini dust storm so I was in no rush to move on. 
Seeing an air pump, I took the bike over. I reckoned the rear wheel could do with a smidgin more. The pump was very Mexican though, held together with tape. An unseen leak meant that within seconds my back wheel was airless! I took a walk, found another one, wheeled the bike around and pumped it up to an unknown pressure! 

Setting off again, I wasn't even off the slip road when I had a problem. My right leg seized up with cramp. Getting off the bike was not fun. Stretching didn't help, only walking it off did. There I was, walking up and down the slip road gradually getting some flexibility back into my leg. This has never happened before on the bike. The last while I've noticed my legs tending to cramp more, especially at night. 

I must have walked a few kms up and down that slip road until I was happy it wasn't going to happen again. Setting off, I was concentrating on getting to the top. It took longer than expected, there were a few more ups and downs and then I was freewheeling. 





This was my first chance to test my Cycle2Charge unit after the drain and new dynamo so I plugged in a powerbank. It works!

There was ballpark 40km downhill and it packed a lot in! More roadworks, more variable shoulder quality and sometimes signs placed right in the shoulder. There was a run off for runaway trucks (the truck right behind me used it!).
It was weird. I caught myself thinking back to the wild and crazy descent on the Devil's Backbone - one of the more dangerous roads in the world - that I enjoyed so much and this one that I was finding so stressful. I'm guessing I'm just out of practice.

*Higher up, I was descending through trees. Beautiful and cool. However, fallen pine cones, branches and other hazards filled the shoulder*.​





When it was good though, it was feckin' great! Whizzing along the wind kept me cool even though Gizmo's temperature was rising steadily. I've never before had to make the decision whether to undertake traffic on a motorway!😀

All day the traffic had been steadily building, and the steeper the descent the more it bunched together, especially in the "slow" lane. 

Now the landscape was opening up, a scorched brown land with mountains and volcanoes. A heat haze made everything blurry.

*Open landscape at lower elevations. The wind kept me cool but I could feel the heat of the sun on my back. I was so glad not yo be cycling into it. Oh wait! Look down there! That's my road - right into the sun!*​




*Photo edited to reduce heat haze

At a junction I decided on a whim to change my plans. Instead of Cuernavaca, I'd head for Tepoztlán. I'd probably end up heading there the next day anyway, and the road seemed quieter than mine. 






Although only a two laner, it was quieter, although this one had lots of road works too - they're building an extra carriageway. Again, care was the order of the day. 

*Getting close!*​





I arrived on the edge of town, tried to find an open campsite and failed so went off in search of cheap accommodation.
With Covid, this is trickier so I wanted to see what the process was.
I found the cheapest Hospadeje I could find and paid for two nights. 
My temperature was taken, I was "assessed" to have no symptoms, I signed a form and I was in!

(Covid rules vary by State and within States by municipality. In some places "Touristic" travel is not allowed. I'm in a new State (Morelos) and due to geography could be in another couple by week's end).

I had a wonderfully powerful hot shower, got a bite to eat and slept the sleep of an exhausted bike tourist!

*My newest home! *​





I'm back on the road and there's no going back!! (There's a feckin' big mountain in the way!)

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 0 km, Total KM 76

Tepoztlán is Un Pueblo Magico (Magical Town) an official designation.

It's not for me.
It is in a beautiful location, sandwiched between mountains - the town itself is a mountain - the streets are almost vertical!
The town oozes character with narrow cobbled streets and a famous market.
There's oodles of history here too. Legend has it as the birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, a powerful serpent God of Aztec mythology. 
There's old architecture, in some cases very old and neglected.

*The beautiful old church, caught in the last rays of the sun with a mountain behind. It is a beautiful place.*​





However, it's a tourist trap and even on a Tuesday (lots of places only open at weekends) it's chaotically busy - so busy it's hard to pause and get a handle on what I'm seeing. 
Walking is difficult. The main street, at least, is level but cobbled. Footpaths are very narrow. Walking means mixing with the traffic - lots of traffic. 
It's frustrating in many ways. For one, there is some wonderful street art that is next nigh to impossible to photograph. It's probably the first place I've come across where there are so few places to stop and savour.

Even the Plaza is a bit off. Located beside the market it has a few scattered trees and no grass at all. There are seats, but very little shade. That adds to the chaotic vibe - there is no place to take a moment and relax. This evening, some young lads had formed into two teams and were throwing stones at each other. No malevolence, just kids being kids, but I've seen nothing like that until now. They weren't too careful with their aim either.

*I liked this scene; Interesting artwork, a bright, colourful bush right next door to an ugly gate. On closer inspection the gate may be covering a wall!*​





Because of its links with Quetzalcóatl, there's a bit of a hippy vibe. Even now, in Covid times, there's more than a few (foreign) backpackers around. Not a one wearing a mask, despite all the locals doing so.

That's something that has given me pause for thought recently.
Around Thanksgiving in CDMX there were a lot of young (presumably) Americans not wearing masks. The big resorts are full of Americans not wearing masks - escaping to somewhere to enjoy their freedom. I remember at Christmas reading a report of foreign backpackers ignoring strict Covid regulations to party on Bondi Beach in Sydney. Locals saw that as a major slap in the face as they sacrificed time with friends and family to be safe, while visitors, it seemed, mocked the rules and by extension, the locals themselves.
What is it about people when they go abroad that they think local rules don't apply to them?
I had an encounter on a hike today. Sitting down, taking a breather a man, woman and child struggled up behind me and sat themselves down too. We passed a few words in Spanish commiserating with each other.
An older English lady coming down, stopped to tell the man to take off his mask. She worked in "Health" and he was depriving his body of oxygen. All this was in English and delivered as a lecture. I can't tell if the man understood or not, but I think not all the detail. She continued on saying that the Pyramid at the top of our hike was closed at which point I piped in, with my Irish accent. I'm not always successful with the ladies, but I've never had one exit so quickly before! I couldn't help but wonder if her sudden departure had to do with her anti-mask stance and the possibility of having to engage with a linguistic equal (I had my mask on).
I wonder, also, if age has a part to play in it?
If I had done this trip after college (the idea of riding a bike then would have been bizarre!) I imagine it would have been very different. My perspective of a place like this selling booze in the morning would probably have been quite different, my behaviour too.

*Mountains everywhere!*​





My reaction to Tepoztlán confirms this. Here, I am eyed up as a walking dollar sign. There's a commercialism that is tangible. Prices are far higher than the city and I've just been turned away from two restaurants that are closing well ahead of their advertised hours. That's not the hospitable México I have seen on my travels. 
I've been swayed to eat in places by a gentle smile. Earlier today hawkers were yelling at me to buy something. There was no shortage of places selling cocktails in plastic cups at 10 am this morning, despite the fact that there don't seem to be too many tourists around. I bought some water and paid far, far more than I have anywhere else. There's no way locals pay those prices.

I must be getting old and grumpier! I'm starting to think that the touristy spots are not for me. 

*Some wonderful roots!*​





Oh! I nearly forgot! The main thing to do here is to hike up a mountain to see a Pyramid and a wonderful view. It's about 2.5 km up! Stone steps and rubble are the path. Early in the morning there is some shade through the trees as I ascend, but it's tough going. I pause regularly. 
My fears are confirmed half way up - access to the Pyramid is Covid denied, but what else could I be doing? Hopefully, I'll at least be able to enjoy the view.

*Taking a breather on the way up*​





Ha! Dumbass!
The Pyramid (and view) are on the far side of a wall of rock! Nothing for it but to turn around, wander down to some shade and read my Kindle.
(Of course, there's no information at the bottom that it is closed, nor any mention of the charge for admission if it was open! Nor is there any inkling that your dog will be denied access at the top!)

*A big gate barring entry, big rock faces denying a view!*​





I just finished Theroux's "Old Patagonia Express" an interesting if not inspirational read. He had some interesting things to say about people that we would now refer to as backpackers and none of it complimentary!

*From the hike....*​





I swung a completely different way now and am glued to a horrific account of a couple who moved to Spain to start a new life. If it was a real book I'd burn it, but since it's on my Kindle….. 
I find it horrifyingly addictive as they muddle through local custom and practice all the while comparing it unfavourably to home. Their long term aim is to rent out accommodation to tourists like they used to be, but when a sister arrives for a weekend visit they have no idea what to do with her! I think the intention is to write a humourous "clash of cultures" story, but it comes across as a bit superior and sneery. 

*The hike was interesting and would give European Health & Safety folks a bad fit of conniptions!*​





On my way down I met the Feliz family. Father, Mother, son, two daughters and a dog. They were taking photos and I offered to take a family shot. (It's my go to technique for starting a conversation!) Delighted they were and regrouped for a few snaps. Given the young ages of the kids I asked Dad if he knew the Pyramid was closed. He knew, but the son piped up telling me that wasn't important. They were enjoying themselves, that's what was important. Feliz. The Happy Family. That kid was just about the only redeeming feature of Tepoztlán.

*The old Cathedral. There were signs of restoration work at the sides, but the roof is temporary. It's all fenced off, the bells are on the ground and behind me is a marquee for masses.*​





Tomorrow I'll be hitting the road again, destination unknown. My leg muscles have given me terrible trouble today and no matter what direction I take I've got some climbing to do. 

*Steep! The main street seemed level in comparison to the side streets! Coming down on a loaded bike? Now that's adventure cycling! Going back up the next morning? Ain't no words for that!*​






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, May 5, 2021,Tepoztlán to Tepetlixpa 55km, Total KM 131
Min meters 1291, Max Meters 2331
Total Climb 1384 Total Descent 565
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 42
Ave Temp 30


Oh dear Lord!! I must have been very bad in a previous life!! My legs ache like never before! The backs of my legs above and below the knee feel like someone went in with a cheese grater at my muscles!

And to make matters better I've a hike-a-bike to get me out of this town. 

I was awake early, hot, hot shower doing all kinds of contortions to get hot, powerful water on the backs of my legs. Everything was slow - just as well - the narrow streets on the town are choked with traffic.

I pushed, heaved and swore my way up to the entrance to the town and sat in some shade. Less than 2km gone and already sweating like a very sweaty thing. Sitting there I met a young chap with plans to cycle to Argentina. So much for feeling special!  We chatted, he looked over the bike, my sweaty situation and I'm pretty sure he'll be travelling lighter!

So, onto the Cuota (115D) heading southish.. Two lanes, no shoulder, but thankfully minimal traffic. At least the start was a gentle descent and I rolled until I encountered roadworks. They're building new lanes! 
In fairness, it wasn't a bad way to start the day. Traffic was respectful and used to slow moving vehicles. The further I went the more I looked enviously at the new road being laid. At times just foundation, at others, unpainted tarmac. A lot of long distance bike travellers get to ride a new road all to themselves. I'd love to too! But it wasn't looking good.

*Looking hot!!*​





I could feel the heat building up and knew that today would be an interesting day's riding. Hop down this cuota for a while, then turn off (Mex 115) and travel through suburban México for the rest of the day. I'm in Morelos, the most densely populated state in México (CDMX doesn't count as a state!). All going well, I'll be finishing in a different State again! How's that for travelling?!

Then I saw it! Two black lanes, painted, signed, cat's-eyed sitting empty beside me. At the next bend there was a gap to let me on and some guys working on a sign. "Could I?" I asked with eager anticipation. 
Dumbass!
This is México! Of course I can!!
Another little dream checked off and it not even 10 am!

*My road!! All for me! Mine! I still rode in the shoulder, though - this is México - anything can happen!*​





Later I merged with the original Cuota again but most of the traffic disappeared. Just as well, as the shoulder was hardly fit for purpose. Occasionaly I pulled up and in for safety's sake, but it was ok cycling.

*Even along a boring motorway there's beauty and colour.*​





Ironically, as I approached my turnoff all the traffic on the minor road joined the Cuota. I didn't need much persuading to take their place on the side road!

So, I've made my turn and it's chaos. Sitting in the shade outside an Oxxo, my first coffee of the day beside me and the traffic has to be seen (and heard and felt!) to believe
It's crazy, but not in the least intimidating. There's a fun few hours ahead!

*Chaos! Mayhem! Noise! Craziness! Not an ounce of malice! What does it say that I feel a bit home in this scene?*​





I don't know if "fun" would be the most accurate description, but it certainly wasn't dull and I got a lot of reminders of what México is like.

Chaos! 

When I first joined Mex115 it was chaos. Turns out there was a lane closed further down for roadworks. I actually walked the bike for a while, not out of necessity, out of a desire to soak it all up.
I walked past shops and stalls selling everything from swimming pools to car parts and everything in between! One guy had a big sheet of used tools for sale. Axes, machetes and some very big spanners.
And music! Speakers in random stores playing all kinds of music. I was back on the road! Actually, my first music of the day was leaving Tepoztlán. An old man selling chairs had put out his stock, sat himself down in the shade of a big tree and had a big speaker set up right beside him. He looked blissfully happy as I struggled past him.
Lots of stores had sheets of corrugated metal, painted, acting as advertisements. It struck me that this must be quite a skill to paint an add on such a surface so that from a distance it appeared "flat", yet was perfectly legible up close. In any case, more colour, more life! 

*What's the point in getting wound up about this? I'm a guest here and am enjoying the mayhem!*​





Getting on the bike again, I had a bit of a shoulder, but that was often filled with stalls. There was some amount of food stalls but I wasn't really hungry. I was consuming a lot of water.

With the exception of the initial downhill, I had been climbing gently all day. About noon I pulled off for a bite to eat. Road food! Yaaaay!
There was very little shade today and I wanted to be careful of the sun so I took my time. 

*Road Food! Simple, hearty and fresh. Note the plastic bag over the plate and the repurposed tub. *​





When I took off again, Gizmo rose from 32 to 41 Celcius! I was out in the country now. Dry but quite green. The climbing became steeper, so much so that there was another run off for runaway trucks - this time on the wrong side of the road! Nothing like a runoff to let me know I was in for some climbing! 
Once I crossed into México State we received a climbing lane so that took some of the pressure off me.

*I'm doing an experiment - travelling without the trailer. And I got a new flag!*​





I stopped frequently. At one stage a breeze teased me. It was almost sensous. To paraphrase the immense Leonard Cohen you'd have to be a sweaty touring cyclist to know how good it feels.

One stop was outside a Country Club. The guards were friendly and I asked them about camping options. Maybe in a park up the road. A woman pulled up to enter and had to retrieve ID from the boot of her car. She pointed with her thumb over her shoulder in my direction where I was sitting on a low wall. Whatever she was saying, the guard just shrugged his shoulder. Perhaps I was lowering the tone of the place! While relaxing, I was watching a broken down car across the road. Later they passed me and I was relieved for them until I realised that the pick-up behind them was actually pushing them along! Bumper to bumper!

I had a rough destination for today, but nothing concrete. There are a few places that I may be able to camp, but information is vague. It'll be a case of play it by ear. I'm itching to get in the tent again! 

For anyone wanting to tour Google Maps is not reliable and here's why: Sitting in the shade I took out my phone and looked at the road ahead. Mainly flat Google said! Reality? A 5% grade minimum. There was a climbing lane for crying out loud!

*A dried out river bed. Any day now that will start filling*​






My choice of destination was made for me in the end. Rainy season is arriving and I watched as my blue sky became cloudy, grey and then very foreboding. It all happens quite quickly. Arriving into a town I cycled through looking for a hotel. I found one right on the far edge with a load of armed Police outside! Just as it started to rain! Thankfully it was a checkpoint and not the hotel!
It's one of those places that charges for 6, 12, or 18 hours! By now it was 6pm so 12 hours had me out at 6am - no thanks. I paid for my 18 hours and was shown to my room. Large, airy and cool, it's not bad at all. A smarter bike tourist would have gone for food and then checked in and saved a few bob. A wetter bike tourist!

Motels in México are for one thing - discreet sex! A basic principle of the design of any of these buildings is to hide cars from the street. That may be in the form of a curved and walled entrance so once you drive in you're hidden, or in last night's case a parking space directly below the room that can be closed with a heavy tarp. In any case in and hide!
Another quirk is that no key was provided last night! I reckon that with people paying by the six hour block, not many leave the room to go for food!
Getting organised the next morning a man left the neighbouring unit and studiously avoided me as he walked right past!

*The motel. Not as grotty as some I've seen. The lady who checked me in seemed amused by me. I guess I'm not their usual guest! She made it clear that the room rate covered any visitors! Chance would be a fine thing!*​





Now, let's talk about food!
I passed what seemed like miles of stores and stalls, many of them serving food on my way in to town. After a fairly decent shower, I headed towards town and was scanning the first "restaurant" I passed. On the path are tables where food is being prepared and cooked, a few tables for customers, behind, the building is open, originally two rooms, filled with tables and in the back rows of fridges with cold drinks.
A young switched on waiter inveigled me to sit, so I did. There was a menu - not always the case - and I made my order, a combination of meats, onion and cheese with which to make my own tacos. I chose the "Grande" option and asked for a sample of their agua frescas (homemade water with various flavourings).
The place was busy with all kinds of people. A young couple here, a solo man there. A large family from great grandmother to toddler squeezed in behind me. The solo man was joined by his wife, two sons and baby daughter. Out of nowhere, it seemed, a solid, wooden baby seat appeared. I noticed that he hadn't waited to eat for his family to arrive!
At the opposite end, on the street beside the sizzling meat, was a long queue of people (in the rain) for take away food. 
From an efficiency point of view it seemed like a disaster, but the place was hopping, service was good, efficient and friendly.
I really enjoyed the whole experience. A basic food place in an unknown town. 

When my food arrived I had another of those laugh out loud moments! It was huge!! While I'd been waiting a big bowl of fresh salsa - tomato, onion, coriander/cilantro, chilli and a large dish of limes, radish and cucumber slices had been delivered. Warning signs I'd missed! 

When I couldn't eat any more, my waiter offered to wrap it all up for me.

The couple, when leaving, made a point of wishing me "buen provecho" (Bon apetit). She had been highly amused to my reaction to the portion size!
Finally, in yet another dog story, there was a dog foraging for food on the street. Slim pickings outside, but she would sometimes venture in and snaffle food from the floor. At one stage she made a beeline for a tasty morsel but that meant crossing a waiter's route to the fridge. Once she realised a waiter was coming she aborted her plan and retreated outside. Obviously the dog knew her boundaries. Not a person was fazed by this random dog. 

This town won't feature on any tourist guides and with the rain I didn't see it at its best, but it was a lovely evening. Truthfully, I was very tired and exploring more wasn't really an option, anyway. I waited out the worst of the rain, weaved my way hither and tither to get home trying to avoid the worst of the floods. 
On my way home, I had, what I now think of as a typical Méxican scene: Bumping down the main street, a small old John Deere tractor, two chaps half on half off the seat, not a rollbar in sight, behind a plough, wider than the tractor, raised up and on the plough, bouncing along two dogs of indeterminate breed. Of course there was no slowing for a tope - speed bump - and the dogs took flight, landing safely back on the plough.
I read my book and slept the sleep of a contented traveller.

*Even the town name was along the road!*​






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, May 6, 2021,Tepetlixpa to Amecameca 13km, Total KM 144
Min meters 2341, Max Meters 2488
Total Climb 164 Total Descent 24
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 31
Ave Temp 26

Well, one thing got settled today! Having a little Spanish definitely enhances the experience! I had two very pleasant encounters on my journey today, and if you're the kind to skip over the stats today was a massive 13km!! 
That was probably a part of it too - having the time to squeeze the most out of the experiences.

*These are "small" headstones by local standards. They do give an idea of the variety and styles available. I still have to try to find a mausoleum style photo. Monday was Mother's Day here and graveyards are decorated for that too. I saw an old lady interviewed for tv after visiting her long departed mother. *​





I was awake on the stroke of 7, a greyish sky not exactly encouraging me out of bed. I had decided last night on a couple of options, neither one long or difficult. I had the luxury of time. It was about 8 when I got out of bed, showered and set about packing and loading. I took my time. It was about 10 when I was heading away - 2 hours ahead of when my time expired.
It took a little while, but the climbing lane reappeared which meant a reasonably comfortable ride despite the constant traffic.
Seeing an Oxxo ahead I pulled in for a coffee.

*Sleeping dogs! Away from the city and there are far more strays to be seen, harmless in the main. I have had a few chases on the bike, though. The first was the worst - I was so shocked I almost crashed! Barkers, mainly, not biters.*​






That's where I met Mariano. He looked at the bike and came over for a chat. An old man he was dressed typically for here in jeans and a shirt. He spoke rapidly to me. I caught Gringo, Baja, Tijuana and not much more. Asking him to repeat didn't help. It's difficult when you can't understand the gist and I was picking up an aggressive undertone. So, when I spoke, I introduced myself, told him I was from Ireland and because I couldn't cycle my bike to Argentina because of the Pandemic I was exploring his country as much as I could. I also advised him that I was learning his language and I have a whole lot to learn.
Well, everything changed! I may be imagining it, but he seemed to slow down, his wide grin dispelled any fear of aggression and we talked about lots of varying different subjects from my bike and its tyres to my impressions of various countries. We talked of the similarities between Ireland and México (no, it's not rain!), music, the US. I think I passed an hour with him chatting pleasantly in the shade, sipping my coffee.

*Tope! Speed Bump! I have to get used to these buggers again! At least these are painted! Some are the same colour as the road! *​





Setting off again I negotiated another longish town, breathed a sigh of relief when the climbing lane returned (they disappear in towns) cycled through some country and got flagged down by David in the next town. I saw him waving but at first ignored him thinking it was for someone else. He became more insistent. I pointed to me and got vigorous nodding. Another pleasant chat with a cyclist, some photos taken in front of the arch for his town and I was back on the road again. It was nice to be able to just kick back and not be worried about a deadline.

The places that I thought may have been suitable for camping were either not or closed. It can be very difficult to get an idea of what some places do. Google Maps will show something with promise. Reviews can be ….. confusing! Often no "official" information, rarely a link to an official website, and when there is often a deadlink.
Based on some of the things I've seen, I'm convinced some people list their friend's places as a place to stay as a joke!

So I rolled into Amecameca and reverted to plan B. R&R day. There's big feckin' mountains in every direction! After here there is some serious climbing. A little rest, a few chores, a new town.

*Mexicans do love their cakes!! It's not uncommon to see queues outside these types of shops as people pick up celebratory sweet things on their way home from work. *​





Job one was to get some alcohol for my stove. At the moment I have 70% alcohol for it, not ideal, especially where I'm hoping to go. I also need some cash. Oh! And a place to stay. I passed a motel/hotel on the way in that looked OK, but kept going to get a feel for the town. Busy! And long! Cycling through a town like this, unhurried and relaxed, is actually quite enjoyable. There's a life in these places that is vibrant and vivid. 

*Street art in these places can be wonderful! Yes, there is "tagging" graffiti, but wasteground can be brightened up, businesses advertise, or people just decorate their walls. Schools, especially, do wonderful, bright, cheery paintjobs. *​






I saw lots of stores for my alcohol and noted the location of the banks. On the far side of town I spied another hotel/motel that looked nicer. I enquired, seems fine, Internet (unlike last night. I reckon people have other things to do with their 6/12/18 hours!). In fact, this is a combination Hotel/Motel. Hotel rooms along the front, motel rooms with adjacent parking spaces (and heavy tarp curtains!) at the rear.

My room is luxurious - I have hot water in the sink (unusual here) so I can shave later. At first I couldn't find a towel - then I saw the two "swans" on the bed! I did some quick laundry, changed and hit town on a mission. The first hardware store was a bust, the first painting store was a hit. 
Then the banks. Uh oh. Bank after bank declined, first one than the other card. The fourth bank gave me a reason - wrong pin. Uh oh! I tried another pin
….Wait…...wait….success!!
Now, that card has had the wrong pin entered 4 times! I'll have to wait and see what happens! I am really not good at this International Banking thing!

*Some shops can be a riot of colour. I have no idea how a balloon shop can stay in business, but these types of shops are everywhere. *​





Chores out of the way I could relax having walked a good part of the town already. Spying an old world coffee house I had a coffee and some rice and egg. It's a lovely old building with doors that are thick and battered enough to be originals. Tall window frames are similar. Very thin tiles cover the walls to chest height, chipped and missing at the edges. Old pictures of the town are dotted around. The ceiling is from lovely old beams of various thicknesses and spacing. A pleasing disorder. There's a low, bar style counter that appears to be a mix of old and new. A well battered, curved counter top boasts an ancient coffee machine (that makes decent coffee) but the front appears to be a horrible, modern style veneer. 
A man has just fired up his phone to belt out a backing track to a portable speaker, a microphone plugged in lets him sing along. A strange mixture of technology and tradition, the technology emphasised when his bluetooth rings out its connection over the speaker.

*It may not look like much on the outside, but inside is a trip in a time machine. *​





Anyone who has looked at a map is probably asking themselves what I'm doing here. If I continued on the road I'm on I'd end up back in CDMX! The answer is looming over me as I type this - Popocatépetl, México's second highest peak and an active Volcano. Looking at different ways to get to Puebla, I chose the unusual route that passes between Popo and it's dormant, smaller sibling Itza-Popo.
If I make it up (and it's a big if!), I'll descend on tracks until I meet a road that will bring me to Puebla, a town particularly rich in Colonial architecture.

*I know when I took this picture Popo was in the background. Popo's a bit like me - an occasional smoker, difficult to photograph and liable to explode at any moment! Seriously, access to it has been limited since 2017. If he blows he will affect 30 million people! Yet, yesterday and today, there were signs everywhere advertising land for sale!*​





There's camping options up there where I hope to relax for a couple of days. It'll be a chance to camp, experience some weather in the tent, test out my stove at a reasonably high altitude and get out of the heat!😀 That's the plan. I've a sneaking suspicion the reality of the ascent is going to be interesting! About 1200 meters over 30km. 

*The local church. Structurally unsound, the wall behind the altar, normally a centrepiece of any church has been removed to reveal a bare wall and umpteen, irregularly paced reinforcing poles driven through the wall. As always, when I visited there were people praying and in a side chapel a man playing a guitar. We'd have called him Father Trendy in Ireland in the 80's. Another black Jesus too!*​







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, May 7, 2021, Amecameca to La Venta Ecovillage 33km, Total KM 177
Min meters 2465, Max Meters 3757
Total Climb 1389 Total Descent 361
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 33
Ave Temp 18

There's a beauty in a lot of things if we take the time to stop and look. I was heading into a place of magnificent beauty yet it took a long time to supercede the CrazyBeautifulChaos I witnessed over my morning coffee. But that's later!

*Actual climb of 1389 meters (that's like a bazillion feet in about 28km*.​





I was nervous about today. Very nervous. This was my figary. I'm on the way to Puebla and my original route took me on main roads. On Sunday evening, during the downpour, I fired up cycle.travel and looked for a bit of adventure. This was it!
A route not around two volcanoes but right between them! If things worked out, I'd get to camp! But first, there was a monster climb (to me) to get out of the way. I reckoned about 1200 meters in less than 30km. The thought of getting a cab even got caught in the weeds of my subconscious. I had packed away my usual cycling footwear of sandals and donned my walking shoes. Something told me I was going to need them. 
So quite apprehensive, I set off.

*All day mist, clouds and sunlight conspired to create a tantalising view. At the start, "up there" was mysterious, when I finally made it "up there" then "down here" was hazy.*​





The distracting beauty was at a junction, just on the edge of town where I was due to make my turnoff for the Volcanoes.
No traffic lights, no apparent right of way it was an early morning explosion of noise and frantic movement. Collectivo buses pulling in, pulling out blasting their horns to alert potential passengers, people hopping from one to another. All kinds of things brought with them. I helped one old Señor with 4 big sacks of salt. He alighted at one corner, removed his four sacks and progressed over to the other corner. Eventually a different Collectivo pulled up and he got on. 

Two little food stalls, one on each corner, right on the road! Next door a man was cleaning a (closed) restaurant making good use of the sound system. Mixed in with all the chaos thumping Mexican ballads!

And, of course, dogs! A couple of bunches of strays, harmless, studiously avoiding the food stalls. Wrestling with each other in the cool morning air. Later, no doubt, they'll sleep off the heat of the day. 
And for all the craziness of that scene when I need to cross two roads to get to my road, traffic slows for me. A distraction from my apprehension.

13C Gizmo settled on when I set off about 8am. It had been a deceptive morning. The early morning light was strange. It was there, but without brightness, without a focus. The reason for that became clearer to me - it was rising behind a big, feckin' volcano!!

I started off well, thinking to myself if it stayed like this I'd be up in no time! 
Ha Dumbass!

I was going fine until I hit a town about 7km in. A steep little town! I was dismayed to realise that I was already in my lowest gear. Conscious of eyes on me I powered through ……. for about three quarters of the length of the main street. Then I stopped.

I was neither hungry nor thirsty so I pushed on. A farmacia that seemed closed had a fuzzy speaker that was playing music. When one song ended there was, from what I understood, the announcement of a death, a pause and more music. Life (and death) in a small Mexican town.

*Wall art is also used for Politics! Some very interesting stuff! *​





The sun, mist and clouds were weaving magic in front of Popo, the largest of the two volcanoes. At times I could see it, stretching into the sky, silver crags morphing into snow coated jags. At other times a mist shrouded it, or even low clouds.
It was like an Arabian belly dance, all shimmer and lace. 

At one stage I passed two men working in a field, their pick up parked on the road blasting music. I pulled in a little later to sit, enjoy the view and their music.

@netman provided an appropriate quote over in the chat thread about serendipity only stepping in once we commit to doing something. Well, here's a little serendipity story…

About 9km in I came to my first little food stall. There's a few of these along this road, but unknown how many are open. I pulled in, not so much hungry as thirsty and was warmly welcomed. Yes they were open, still in prep mode but coffee was ready and maybe some chicken?
I had chicken with melted cheese served in a blue tortilla, washed down with cafe de ola, a Méxican coffee, literally, coffee from a cooking pot. Relatively weak coffee, seasoned with spices and "stewed" in a pot on the stove. Lovely and smooth.
But of far, far more value was the chat, the interaction, the observation.
Three women and two kids running the show. Open every day. Rough wooden tables covered with bright, plastic tablecloths for guests, a combination of brick walls and planks for a working area.
No running water, no drains, all food, water, pots and pans carted up every day and carted back down every evening.
The ground was compacted clay. Not a tile in sight! And of course, one of the women was sweeping it!
A roof made of a hodgepodge of corrugated sheeting finished it off. 
The stove! I've been invited to see a few kitchens, wine and beer cellars in my time but I don't think I have ever asked to see one before, it's important to respect another's territory, but there's something in the air here that draws me out of my shell.
When I asked the boss lady if I could have a peep at her stove it was like I'd asked for another coffee! But of course! 
Proud as punch she showed me, explained it and pointed out the chimney - surprisingly uncommon in these types of spots! Then the pots got opened! 
A rectangular construction of brick, a flat rectangular area of metal on the right for cooking meat, a deeper circular area on the left to hold various pots. 
Underneath the two areas is a fire shelf that stretches the length of the stove. Currently, a wood fire is burning directly under the circular area, later, more wood pushed over and the plate will sizzle. Simple. Effective.
We talked about where I came from, where I was going, about the volcano, the weather, the pine trees, why I was doing this alone. (The absence of a wife and children is always an interesting topic of conversation). A lovely, lovely time.

*When I asked to take a photo, two of the ladies skipped away - the third is sweeping the dried earth floor! To the left of Mazi is the stove. European Health Inspectors would have seizures but I love these places, all the more that we can have a little chat. Usually there's no such thing as a menu so I can just ask for what I fancy. I still get shown in advance "to be sure to be sure". *​





Later, higher up, there was a slight descent! I hopped on and freewheeled down and pulled into another little stall. Two old women, one of whom immediately impressed me by calling me young man! Sitting down was a Dutchman and an American! My first face to face English conversation in months! I was delighted to have arrived on the bike as opposed to pushing it!

*When the trees start to appear they do so in some style! *​





Twice I had looked at Gizmo for height info. I reckoned I needed to climb over 1200 meters. The first time I checked I had achieved 240, the second 620. I was not feeling good! After meeting the two lads I checked again - I had broken the 1000 meters barrier! That was better!

*Looking back to where I started before the trees closed in*​





The countryside started opening up, less trees meant more sunshine, but added altitude meant cooler temperatures. For a while I had been thinking that I may not make my destination and any possible bail out spots were either closed or not suitable. Now, with only 200 meters or so more climbing I was starting to feel more optimistic!

At times, I could catch a glimpse down towards where I had started. Yesterday, Popo was often hidden in a haze of heat, today, lower down was behind that same haze.

Out of absolutely nowhere I got walloped. 
To understand, we have to go back in time, to just before El Día de Muertos. Looking for flowers to pay my own tribute, I had a conversation with a woman selling flowers, a conversation in which no stranger could have been expected to have such insight and in a language I should have had no expectation to understand. On her stall of flowers she had some typical Día de Muertos knicknacks. My eyes fell on the figure of a dog and I just froze. My eyes were glued to it. It totally blindsided me. She saw that and had a chat with me. It started about a dog, but she was smart enough to know there was more. I explained that I wanted to build a little altar in memory of my father, dead 40 years this year, but that I wasn't Mexican and this was all wonderfully new to me. She assured me that both my father and my dog could make their way back, that they were remembered and, in fact, would always be by my side.
To cut a long, long story short, I had placed a pair of figures, one representing my long departed father, the other (no laughing at the back!) my dog, in a special place on CDMX. 
I figure, if they ever come back, CDMX would be the perfect place for both. I left the figures and went home. Next morning I hit the road. 
I didn't think about them until today. At a height of 3600m, having climbed 1200 meters in 20km, exhausted, but excited, under a canopy of trees, Popo looming in front of me, birdsong in my ears, my head flew back to that spot in CDMX and in seconds I was walloped!
Snot and tears everywhere! Not sadness. Absolutely not! In a very strange way, joy. 
Of course, that was the time that a practical convoy of cars, trucks and minivans passed me! What they made of the smiling, bawling, snotty cyclist walking his bike up a bloody big hill I have no idea.
I knew what that lady had said to me was true, in some way, but up until that moment I hadn't felt it. 
Yet another concept meets reality moment. 

_*I've cut those paragraphs out and put them back in many times. I've left them in because they're a part of the tale of a journey on a bike. 
To me, a bike ride, especially to somewhere that is not home, can be physical as well as mental. On a bike we can see beautiful places and stop and savour them the way other travellers can not. Those beautiful things can be rivers or forests or seas, but they can also be the beautiful things in our own lives, our memories, our dreams seen from a whole new vantage point and with the time and space to savour them too.
Early in my touring experience I met a man who had cycled from Russia. He spoke to me of travelling with dead people, a concept at the time that freaked me out. He offered me dinner and a place to stay, but to my regret I hotfooted it away. It took me a while, but I started to see what he was getting at - the freedom of the road, the simple necessities, the physical effort all combine to give us space to just "be". Such space offers a natural, gentle method of organising priorities and emotions, whatever they may be.
I wish I had spoken more to that man. These paragraphs are included so that if you ever meet him, hopefully you won't run away like a little chicken as I did._

*A very special stretch of road*​





I pulled in for a coffee at the next little stand and took a little me time. The wrinkled, shrunken lady who gave me my coffee never uttered a word about my red eyes, but she offered up a refreshing mug of cool water.

Back on the road again nothing was going to stop me. I took off on the bike with a vengeance, got about one km and had to hop off and walk again! Oh well. I had lots of time.

I reached the National Park (closed) and got really confused! One road was closed, there were several minor roads and not a feckin' sign anywhere. La Venta EcoVillage where I'm heading has had regular advertising signs along the road. Now, that there's a choice of roads they're nowhere to be seen! Ah, México!
Thankfully there was a mobile Police Station (probably to keep people out of the park) and I interrupted their lunch to ask directions. 5 km to go! And since I'm past the pass, it's all downhill! Yaaaaaay!






Oooops! I spoke to soon! Sand! I hate sand! And rocks and roots! Total concentration required! I slid a few times but kept away from the drop to one side. The worst was hitting the occasional patch of deep sand. I couldn't see diddlysquat as I was too busy looking at the road. So I stopped a lot! Mountain country. A few cars and pick-ups passed me, mostly heading the other way. 
One car passing me stopped and a cold beer came out the window! I thanked the couple for their generosity, but I couldn't take it. I had 4km to go, I was exhausted and it was quite technical riding. Immediately the offer became a bottle of water. 
At the start, I received little attention. The lower land was agricultural and people were out working in the fields. I passed one field with what I took to be three generations - the grandfather saw me and laughed, the grandson looked sullenly at me and a little further on the father stopped me for a chat. Higher up in more foresty areas I regularly heard the sounds of people working behind the trees. What I was doing was physically tough, but these people do it every day - a guy on an overloaded bike is nothing to them.
The higher I got, the more waves and beeps I got, although mostly from shiny new cars - not locals, most likely. Now, near the end I was getting beer! 





I finally came to the entrance to meet a young fella looking for 10 pesos for entry. I'd tipped all my small money and he couldn't make change. I told him I was going to camp and I'd tell the people in the office & pay there. He seemed happy enough.

It's not what I was expecting. I'd had Whatsapp contact earlier in the week. The "tent" area is little more than waste ground and there's a natural obstacle course to get to it. I'm the only tenter, the rest are either day visitors or staying in cabins. The bathrooms are ….. interesting! Not a shower in sight, icy mountain water from the one working tap! 
My planned view of the giant Popo is obscured by trees!
Check in was ok, but there was no welcome in it. Since the restaurant was getting ready to close I hiked bike and gear to my spot and returned for food. Tent is up now, rain is threatening and I'm ready for my first night under canvas in far too long.







What a feckin' great day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (11 May 2021)

Tying up the loose ends.....

Frisbee dog got a haircut for the warmer weather. He actually started to look handsome!

The joyful Doberman actually lived across the road from me. His morning routine with his boss consisted of exiting the building, jumping for joy (and a Doberman can really jump!), then embarking on a walk. Every three or four human paces and he did a 360 degree spin on his lead. Pure joy! This he did for half a block and then settled in to a "get ahead of the boss, stop and sniff, catch up with the boss". And repeat. The boss never once had to break stride. 

*I love the attitude to death and the dead here. This happy skull is outside a kid's school!*​





Loper dog I saw less and less of, partly (I think) because his boss started using a bike more. Still the same behaviour though, a stop to shnuffle then a hot pursuit of the boss. That is one incredible relationship and one special dog.

*Never a fan of "Modern" buildings, this city really changed my mind. I was captivated by reflections*​






The bull terrier pup that I met at Alex's place? I got to see him grow up! I'd see him most weeks, he played more with me when his Mistress walked him than his Master. As he filled up and out he started leaving his playfulness behind too, but did not compensate with anything close to intimidation.
The world compensated though, with Laya, a short haired shepherd pup with a delightfully playful personality!

*Alejandro (Alex) at work on his grill. My barbag is hiding the new wheel! My home from home in the big, big city*​





The Squirrel Hunter? I had to wait until my very last Saturday to catch up with him again. Same tree, same behaviour! Except this time his Bloodhound pal was a bit more active and actually barked at the tree!

The Crazy English Sheepdog with the female boss who terrorised her boyfriend? We met! His name is Lorenzo, he's mad as a hatter, great fun and a challenge for any man looking to woo his Mistress! 

I never did see again the mystery woman with the dog who spotted me through a heaving mass of people. I had so much Spanish to practise with her!
What a great start to a story…."Our eyes met across a great throng of people….." Ooops! That was the dog!

*There is a wonderful collection of old cars in the city. Some are restored, some are awaiting restoration(!) and some are used as just "normal" cars.*​





The Grumpy Dogs who got shown up by the King of the Park? Now, there lies a tale! I didn't see them for ages, and then late one afternoon I saw them, quiet as the proverbial mice. That day they were in female company, a woman and two young girls, the eldest no older than 9. Not a peep out of them! I'm sure it was them - their coats are remarkable and memorable - but it was a very different sight. No intimidation, no growling or snarling at other dogs. Just a family out for a walk.

*Not the greatest photo in the world, but on a dry, warm night this city could be the most romantic place I've ever seen*​





I must have little notes on over a hundred doggy encounters and even more observations. I haven't written them all up because y'all will think I'm mad. 

*You're never far from a tree here!*​






I'll finish off the dogs of CDMX with this little tale which, to me, speaks volumes about this place, its dogs and its people.
One Sunday afternoon in the Parque México a couple are slowly walking with two handbag dogs on leads. A man with a fighting dog on a lead walks past them heading in the same direction. At the right moment, his dog lunges at one of the handbag dogs but the other boss is expecting this and swiftly yanks his pet out of harms way. 
Now, if that happened in NL I could expect harsh words, threats, a call to the Police. Here? Not a bit of it! Fighting Dog's boss apologises, a look of honest shock and embarrassment on his face, handbag dogs' boss laughs it off. And the handbag dogs? They're raring to get at their much bigger relative! Everyone laughs! 

*If you follow that trail of light for just shy of 10km you'll be in my old stomping ground*​






The Man in the park that I bought so much crap from and had little chats with disappeared. He'd been out of work due to Covid, had a family to support. I take it as a positive sign that he finally found some steady work. The young lad who slowly counted out the money, confused when I overpaid him was just as suspicious the last time I saw him just before I left.

*You never know when you're going to round a corner and be slapped full in the face with a colourful scene! *​






Finally, that grave that drew me back again and again? I last visited it at Easter. Bunny rabbits were the additional decorations. It is difficult to describe the feelings that spot inspires in me. There's a celebration, a joy that dominates the sadness that, to my mind, is normally associated with cemeteries.
I reread the plaque and realised I'd missed one important detail the first time I discovered this special corner of this special place. Yes, the grave contained a young woman, yes, her brother was celebrating her life. What I missed was her young son. 
Somewhere in my mind a lot of things suddenly fell into place.
There's a little boy who gets to visit his mother (and now, I believe, his grandmother) and thanks to his uncle it's a happy, child friendly place, a place to celebrate more than to grieve.

México - it's feckin' great!


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## HobbesOnTour (13 May 2021)

Camping in the mountains, Saturday, May 08, 0km.

My camping system needs a bit of work! It took several packing attempts to get organised before I hit the road. And then, first evening in the tent after a long, long absence meant a bit of rooting for this and that.

I got in just as a few random raindrops turned to a more constant rain. It was cool. I lay down and threw my sleeping bag over me and listened to the pitter patter of rain. It was still bright. Very relaxing! There's a little stream a couple of meters from me so I can hear that babbling away, and further away there is a steady flow of water pushing through a series of pipes.

*On the way up!*​





It didn't take too long to discover my first problem. My Thermarest sleeping pad appears to have a slow leak. That's going to need some investigation and is not going to be easy. 

All in all it wasn't the greatest first night in the tent. The hard and bumpy ground woke me several times during the night. As did the cold! As dawn was breaking I fired up Gizmo to check the temperature; 3C! That's a bit of a shock!

*That row of trees along the ridgeline captivated me! Brave, hardy souls!*​






I had been looking forward to firing up the Trangia for ages! I was also curious to see how it would handle the altitude. It's been in mountains before, but I've never paid much attention to altitude before.

I knew next to nothing about camping when I bought my first tent as an adult. Once I started camping, I realised that I'd want a stove. But what stove? There were lots.
Lots of online discussions and lots of online "boil rate" comparisons. Races to boil water! I'd never heard of such things!
Gas ones seemed the most obvious. But I always thought there were two issues, both to do with cannisters. I could easily see availability being an issue, especially internationally and at some stages I'd need to carry two. Bulky, and with my clumsiness, potentially explosive!
From CGOAB, multifuel stoves seemed the choice of long haul bike travellers, able to use lots of different fuels by virtue of various fittings. However, I read many accounts of failures due to blocked lines/fittings and thinking through different scenarios and my ineptitude with those types of things it just struck me as a finnicky system. My fuel bottle travels on my down tube. That gets mucky!
Finally, there was the Trangia. Ancient technology in terms of stoves, but simple, practically indestructible and alcohol is available pretty much everywhere. (Covid has changed that! The rush to alcohol sprays and gels has diverted alcohol usage in some places).
The slowest "boil rate" of all but I failed to see how that was important. 
There are issues in cold temperatures (can be worked around) and possibly at great altitudes. But that affects all systems.






So, I got the full Stormcooker Trangia for stability. It's fantastic! I've pulled into campsites, set it up for coffee and set up the tent while waiting. Tent ready, coffee ready! It doesn't need constant supervision.
With the simple lid/flap I can control the flame to simmer and actually cook things. 

Eight minutes this morning to boil water for my coffee. No problem igniting. 3500 meters high. I have no idea if that's good or not - I've never timed it before! And quiet! Oh so quiet! Little birds hopping happily around me! I did see one bird, entirely blue! I have no idea if this is the famed Bluebird, beloved of many a Texan singer, but it hopped around my tent having a good look before flying off.

*From baking, dry, dusty land, into trees and mystery over there!*​





I had coffee. I had porridge and then more coffee. Sitting, well wrapped up in my little camp chair, reading my book. I have no intention of going anywhere today! A little time to enjoy some Nature. And try to find a very small hole in a very large mattress!

I felt a bit deflated (!) by my location. It was certainly beautiful, but the one thing, Popo, that I wanted to see was hidden by bloody trees! Lovely trees, in fairness. There was a waterfall, but on closer inspection it was totally fake. Given that most of the people visiting were "day visitors", and the complete lack of any interaction beyond the formalities of check in, I didn't have a good vibe about leaving my gear and going for a hike for a better view.

*Beautiful trees and very, very tall!*​





So, I took a reading day. I don't know if John McGahern ever thought someone would be reading one of his books beside a big, Mexican volcano, but I can highly recommend the experience! His slow, detailed prose fitted in nicely with the pace of my day. 
I took occasional little walks to see what was going on. The centrepiece of the park is a little trout lake, there are trampolines, archery and a zip wire. I saw some horses and got a bit excited, but then I saw the poor horses and thought better of it.
Where I was, over in the wasteground, no-one disturbed me. 

*My view! Popo is there somewhere, but I can't see on my phone!*​





When the sun shone it was hot, but it was often behind clouds or trees. A few times it threatened to rain. It held off until about 5 and then it was intermittent for the rest of the evening.






I was in the tent well before the sun finally sank but it was an uncomfortable night with a flat sleeping pad. I'd tried in vain to find the leak but I'm going to need a bath or a swimming pool!

*Heading off, the day before*​















* All photos from my camera.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

Edited to fix the date


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## HobbesOnTour (13 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 9, 2021, La Luna Ecovillage to Cholula 39km, Total KM 216
Min meters 2161, Max Meters 3362
Total Climb 52 Total Descent 1214
Min Temp 11 Max Temp 39
Ave Temp 26


It's better to be lucky than good!

After a miserable night on lumpy ground I rolled into my next campsite and it doesn't have a pool - it has two!!

It took a long time to get going this morning, not helped by having to carry all my gear across rocks and streams before finally assembling it all together. I hadn't even made coffee. I just wanted to be off. The tent was wet after all the rain and there'd be no sunshine on my spot for some hours so I packed it up wet.

To get out of the place I had to huff and puff and heave the bike up a mix of gravel and rocks. That workout worked a lot like coffee!

Once out of the park I was a little flummoxed - there were two roads where I was only expecting one!
More importantly, a man and two women were setting up a roadside restaurant, and even more important than that, they had coffee!
It's strange, I ate twice in the restaurant in the Ecovillage, the second time under protest because it was pishing rain. The experience was cold and sterile. I've eaten/drank in 4 of these little places up and down the past few days and they don't come within an asses roar of cold or sterile.
I had a delicious quesadilla with chicken, a cafe de ola from a pot sitting on some burning logs and a wonderful chat. I also got to find out which road to take!
Beside them, right outside "my" campground was a sign for a different campground just down the other road. It had the words "Camping Area"! I was tempted, I really was, to salvage something from my mountain experience. Then I remembered my flat sleeping mat.







Setting off, I was in great form again! But Lord! The road was not!
To be fair, this was a part of my figary - I knew I'd be offroading it for a while, all part of the adventure. It was rarely fun, often rough but damn was it beautiful! I couldn't take my eyes off the road in front of me, so I was missing the views. So I stopped a lot. What I wasn't missing was the birdsong. The Popo Sunday choir were out in force.
At first, I had this gravel/earth/sand/rocky/rooty road all to myself, but over time one pickup became two became three, as folks from down there came up here for their Sunday fun.
There were lots of waves and toots and general pleasantness - even when I was on the wrong side of the "road".






In one pick-up, I kid you not, mamá and papá in the cab and 4 kids in deckchairs in the bed of the truck! Another one I heard long before I saw them - The Mexican equivalent of the Von Trapps, the kids (about 8 of them) singing for all they're worth as they bounce upwards!

Tough cycling - great place!

*The birds were singing to me!*​





Later, I passed a long line of Mountainbikers struggling up. Most friendly, some superfriendly and a few that didn't see me at all. It was an interesting bit of perspective - locals, decent bikes, light bikes and they were struggling to make ground going up too!

After about 10km of this bouncing, bobbing and beaming I finally hit concrete again. I was flying!
And then I wasn't!
Topes! Speed bumps! New State (Puebla) new rules! Almost invisible and pointy!
After a while I had to pull in and let my brakes cool. I spied a shop that a) was open b) had 3 dogs and c) had a couple of benches to sit on.

*It really is a dog's life!*​





I got a cold drink and a pastry and was disappointed that not a one of the mutts woke up.
Then all of a sudden, as if on cue they went for me! I had just picked up my plastic wrapped pastry and now they wanted to give me attention!
Just then a motorcycling couple pulled up and he wanted a chat. While we talked the mongrel curs stole my choccie swiss roll type thing!!

*Passing through a town. Hot!*​





Rolling back downhill I was following the road towards Puebla. It seemed to improve after each little town (there were a few). On a figary, I stayed on the road when my gps and traffic jumped across to a bigger one. Other than the topes trying to kill, or at least seriously maim me, I was enjoying myself. The only negative experience was a man trying to lead a horse along the side of the road. The horse wasn't cooperating so the man gave it a belt. The horse spun around, sent the man flying and took off up the road heading for me. I swerved out of his way and was in no mood to offer any assistance to the man on the ground. 
Thanks to this bit of a figary, I arrived into the town of Cholula away from the main roads and found myself wandering around some lovely little streets. This was more charming than I was expecting! Far more charming!
(On my walk I figured out which road I would have arrived on had I stuck to the plan. A busy dual carriageway that would have hidden all the beauty!)

*My Camping Corner! *​





I-overlander has a trailer park listed around here so I went off to investigate not full of confidence. Hard to find, but once found? Wow!
There are showers blasting hot water, lovely grass for a tent, covered areas for shelter and cooking. And two fabulous dogs!
Feck Puebla! I'm home!
At first, I was put off by a big, closed gate and a guard dressed in Military fatigues. However, he could not have been friendlier and more welcoming if had tried.

There's a dog here that has to be seen to be believed! A giant, dark husky, built like an ox and those cold, dark islands in cold white pools of eyes that huskies tend to have. On arrival, he came over for a sniff. I was feeling a tad nervous. I put my hand out and he took fingers, palm and some of my wrist into his mouth - playing as some dogs do. Powerful jaws, huge teeth and as gentle as a mouse!

*Camping and a dog???? Am I the luckiest fecker ever?*​





First order of business is the wet tent - up and drying. Second order of business is the sleeping pad. Utilising a pool (not as easy as it sounds) I found the leak, or rather series of leaks. I marked them, left it to dry in the sun then was almost driven into the ground by a blasting hot shower!
After that, repair time and then a bit of relaxing. I even had a swim!
Once I was satisfied that my repairs were taking I set off into town.

*Street art here is fantastic! *​





It's another dimension of México! Wider streets in better condition, a very European style plaza, very open. A park with no doggy section!!!! It was wonderful exploring on a Sunday when the world and its uncle is out and about. The whole time the sky became moodier, darker, angrier and once again, I saw no indication of people packing up or rushing off.
I, however, am not a local! I made it back to the campground just as some huuuuuge raindrops started to fall. There was a blast of rain, some lightning, far off thunder and now a light drizzle.

*Someone made the sky very, very angry!! It can happen so fast, or there can be many false alarms!*​





Tomorrow, I'll explore a little more and then roll into Puebla. I plan on staying a couple of days. It's a pretty famous place. If it's not to my liking I can always come back out here!

*No shortage of Churches in this town!*​






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (14 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, May 10, 2021, Cholula to Puebla 19km, Total KM 253
Min meters 2108, Max Meters 2228
Total Climb 185 Total Descent 122
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 40
Ave Temp 34

I wasn't going to have far to go today, a dangerous situation for me!
I had slept very well, the sleeping pad held all its air! Unfortunately, it has now developed a rather large "bubble" on both sides immediately around the patch. Not sure what that says about the longevity.

I resisted the urge for an early morning dip - it was cool and I am the world's worst at immersing myself in cold water. Instead, I fired up my Trangia, pulled out my chair and passed a lovely hour just appreciating my luck.
The rain during the night needed to be dried off, helped by the rapidly rising temperature.
This was a place I had highlighted last year in Mazatlán as a potential place to store bike and gear for a trip into CDMX. It would have worked!

I mentioned the fabulous, monster husky yesterday….. Well here he is this morning, looking about as attack minded as I was going up between the volcanoes!





Slowly, very slowly, I packed up and hit the road.
Whoah! Busy!!!! I'm heading to Puebla, but in reality, I'm already there as the city has effectively consumed this town. I took my promised little tour around, but early morning busyness made it uncomfortable, so I climbed a steep hill and headed for the Cuota, thinking that was my best manner of getting to Puebla centre.
Whoah! Dumbass!!!
Crazy, speeding traffic! There was a shoulder, but it was narrow and the whole scene very unsettling. Instead, I went off hunting for another way, finding the libre. Crazy busy too, but a dedicated bike path! Sold!
Until it ran out! There were a few kms of "uh oh, how the hell did I get here?" until the quantity of traffic lights meant that traffic wasn't going much faster than me.
I even had time to chat to a very friendly taxi driver!
*Well, I finally encountered an oso on my trip!*​





I felt like I had travelled to another dimension. There were similarities to México, but distinct, European aspects too. For a start, streets were wide, straight and of pretty good surfaces with clear markings. For another, lingerie shops had slightly more provocative stock and ladies fashions were far less colourful! Such are the things I notice! In cycling terms, it was probably the most bike unfriendly place I've been in México. Without a bike lane I was invisible, drivers very impatient. Nearly had two collisions with impatient cars. See? Very European!

*This, though? Very Mexican!*​





I deliberately stayed of the main road to the centre, preferring the variety of the smaller streets. Activating a route to my AirBnB I immediately turned off it to go down here!

*I couldn't resist the crazy!*​





My AirBnB is away from the centre (up a bloody big hill!), near to the Exhibition centre, various museums and cable cars!!

*The Pyramid contains the Planetarium (closed). On the windows are all kinds of interesting facts to do with space, constellations and rockets. It struck me as very kid focused*​





I'd love to say that the location was strategically planned out, but it was chosen on a whim. Just as well - the museums and cable cars are all Covid Closed. But what views!







I checked in, did some laundry, showered, got a delicious sandwich in a local shop and wandered into town.

*That's how to move chairs!*​





The walk was fabulous! From up high to down low, through a park (different!) along straight streets heading for the Historic Centre.

*Street Art close to my AirBnB*​





I like a bit of teasing so I walked around the Zocalo (centre plaza) rather than approach it head on. Boarded up! Such a shame!

I meandered home, pulled off course by spires, stopping for a coffee and enjoying the view and watching the people.

*Street Art. It's actually encouraged to express the cultural identity, history and heritage of the people and neighbourhoods. *​





At home, I pulled up my Lonely Planet Travel Guide. Puebla was indeed designed to be a European style city! My Spidey senses are calibrated!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (14 May 2021)

Puebla Tuesday, May 11, 2021

I had a dreadful night's tossing and turning with little sleep. The room, cool in the afternoon was stifling hot after dark. 
My plan to be up early and see the sunrise over the city was in tatters. Oh well. 
I took a meandering route into town and spent a pleasant hour or two away from the main touristy strip, instead wandering up and down and around the streets with lots of stores and stalls. Busy! Hectic! 
*Spot the compañeros!*​






Since I get to see a lot of the world pass me by sitting on a park bench and since I tend towards lazy, I found a long park and plonked myself down in a seat.





There's one aspect of México which I find utterly charming - couples!
On my walk into town today I passed a few displaying all the signs of being in the first flushes of love, if not the first flushes of youth. A few seats down from me there's a young couple, mid teens I reckon, both masked, just nuzzling faces. Even now, well into a year of lockdown the vast majority of people are wearing masks, even when they prohibit the very things they'd like to do. I can well remember the raging hormones of my teenage years! Yet, these two have turned it into a kind of game - taking it in turns to tease each other. 
Further down, on another bench, a man, probably on the wrong side of 50 (I can still say that!) is sitting on a bench, his lady friend lying along the bench, her head in his lap. They are chatting, smiling, talking, laughing, touching each other affectionately, taking a little time as the city busies by. Second, third, fourth chances, maybe, being seized.
At bus stops the same kinds of things can be seen as couples part for who knows how long. Long, tight hugs, arms entwining, whispers into ears. I find it all very sweet.






From the moment I pulled into Cholula there was a different vibe. That has continued here in Puebla, hardly surprising since it's pretty much one conurbation at this stage. The differences are physical as represented by straight streets, paved surfaces and the like, but there are other differences as well. Traffic moves much faster and with more aggression. There'll be no stepping out into the road for a quick photo here! 
It's like a filter of some kind has been placed between me and my "image" of México. I see the same things….. but they're different in some way. 






The usual juxtaposition between scenes exist, but seem more concentrated here. I can walk from a "market street" full of small stores selling all kinds of things to a "tourist" street and buy a full cowboy/girl outfit from boots, to jeans, shirts, jackets and of course hats! As a rule I hate clothes shopping, but if I ever went into one of these I may never get out!
Puebla has historically been a wealthy city and that is evident in modern buildings, new cars and fashion. This clashes all the more with the people who don't have these things.
Begging is more direct and intense than I've seen before. People sleeping rough are more numerous than I've seen elsewhere. 

I thought I had located the Tourist office yesterday and was not that surprised that it was closed. Today, I found the real Tourist Office, got a city map and asked the friendly lady to highlight the open Museums. Not many as it turned out. The first one on her list was closed! So, I went into the Cathedral. 
*The Cathedral. Sombre outside, opulent inside*​





If there was a competition for the most preserved and glamorous Cathedral, Puebla would probably win based on the fact that it hasn't been fire damaged like in CDMX. It is incredibly impressive. Incredibly richly decorated. Surprisingly, makes much less use of light than other Churches I have seen here. The backdrop to the main altar has to be seen to be believed.
I wandered and then sat down to try to soak it all up. The longer I sat and soaked the more my mood changed, from impressed and awestruck to uncomfortable. When I felt a smidgin of anger welling up I arose and walked out into the blazing sun.
I went to a different church to see what would happen, a church for nuns of the Immaculate conception (or as I translated from Spanish "Clean Conception"). Simpler than the Cathedral, but still opulent. 
I haven't been inside a church here in a while and I'm a bit further along understanding the society and frankly, the extreme wealth used to raise these buildings and now to maintain them strikes me as grotesque. One or two I can appreciate the beauty, the workmanship but Puebla has 70 or 90 such churches. It's starting to look like some hideous competition where the top tier play against each other, but the poor feckers at the bottom do all the work and make all the sacrifices. In the case of religion and faith, willingly.

*This street is amazing! The tree cover is so dense if feels like indoors*​





Then I walked past The Museum of Living Things, a serpent, arachnid type museum in a building that was as far removed from the opulence of a church as could be found. It was open, I paid my small fee and had to wait for a guide. 
Well, what an experience!! Given a choice of languages, I chose Spanish, saying from the get go that my vocabulary was not exactly full of appropriate words. I was terrified, amazed, terrified, amused, terrified and horrified as well as having several laugh out loud moments with my young guide! Have I mentioned terrified?
There were snakes, lizards, spiders, turtles, scorpions and cockroaches from México and elsewhere. 
We quickly settled into a rhythm of whether an exhibit was native to México (or further south), if venomous and dangerous. I was really only interested in things that were likely to kill me!
Unlike many serpent houses that I have seen, many of these animals were on the move. It's a bit freaky seeing a large snake slide up the glass partition towards my hand as I lean on the case chatting away! 
At one room we had to wait while a colleague was doing something with a rattlesnake. When we entered, the rattlesnake was annoyed - I know that because his tail was rattling! It was amazing! His head erect and ready to strike, his tail rattling and his tongue slithering in and out. I was captivated and horrified. Told he was angry because we were there, I pointed to the case next to him and asked why his friend seemed friendlier. The simple movement of my hand was enough to annoy this amigo so now there were two rattlesnakes ready to attack! I was horrified to hear even more rattles kicking in but couldn't see a source. My guide pointed to a curtain hanging from the table supporting the display cases - more snakes, behind a curtain and on the feckin' ground!!! My old Irish Dancing teacher would have been very proud of my newfound skill of keeping my feet off the ground for as long as possible! They're doing research on rattlesnakes so have extra! My skin was crawling! I had to get out of there! 
The next room was spiders - a Black Widow (tiny) and a variety of tarantulas. On the way in there was a ginormous Tarantula Teddy bear type thingy to spook the guests! My skin crawling was adapting from snakes to spiders when I spotted a bit of tree branch on the floor half hidden by a tablecloth that looked, on first glance, like a snake!
I know I leapt Scooby-Doolike, there was probably some yodelling and then a lot of laughter as my guide saw the funny side! He swore blind that it wasn't a joke and I believed him, but I also noted he was in no hurry to remove the stick!
That was the most fun I think I've ever had in a museum! I didn't understand everything, but I got the gist of most of it. I asked questions and based on the answers I was making sense! We chatted about all kinds of things to do with my trip and I learned a few things - big snakes will eat smaller snakes, Australia is definitely the most dangerous place in the world and that the two most venomous spiders in México are tiny! 
It probably wasn't my smartest move to ask for confirmation that killing any spider in my tent was a smart thing to do! He suggested just flicking them away!
I may well have nightmares tonight, but it was worth it! 

The heavens had opened while I was inside the museum. I ducked into another church to wait the rain out. I really need to find a simple church soon! 

When the rain stopped there was a lovely freshness in the air so it was far more pleasant to be out and about. I moseyed on home realising that while the rain is not constant, when it comes down, it really comes down!

*A "covered" street off the Zolaco, utterly charming. On entering, "La Bamba" was being played on bells (I think the source was the clock) and I found it totally fitted. Half way down at a slow, curious pace I started to feel sorry for the people working there as the bells were moving into annoying territory. Having reached the end, I turned around and hotfooted it out if there before I succumbed to the madness of the bells! The Bells! The Bells! *​





*I spied this beauty down a side street and went off to investigate! What a beautiful, attractive building! A cinema! I love cinemas. Correction, I used to love cinemas. I'm not a fan of modern multiplexes.*
_*Having taken this photo I wandered across for a better look. Maybe I'd catch a movie! I'd love to know what it's like inside! *_
*On closer inspection, the sign "Adults Only" caught my attention. The ticket office was plastered in signs encouraging hand washing and disinfection like that wasn't pretty obvious even without a pandemic! I didn't think an adult movie was going to enhance my Spanish too much so I shuffled off, very upset at what this fine old building had become.*​





Mole (not the rodent, a sauce) is the taste of Puebla. I didn't find any restaurants that were calling me in to sample some. Oh, waiters were calling, but without conviction so I passed. 
It's interesting, I haven't seen one "Mexican Restaurant" of the type that I've seen in Europe. One or two places in Mazatlán and CDMX came close catering for tourists. 

I took a meandering way home as the sun fell and the city started to light up. 

It is a pity that so many museums are closed. (I found one open with an exhibition of erotic art but, alone, during a Pandemic I didn't think it would help!). It seems that private ones are open, Government ones are closed. I chatted to a few guys outside the Cinco de Mayo Museum. One guy, especially, was really animated that he couldn't let me in. Me on a bike, passing through, only one chance. He tried to convince his colleagues to let me in, but it wasn't to be!
Cinco de Mayo (The Fifth of May) is a huge festival in the USA (and a bit in Puebla), not so much in México, at least not outside tourist areas. It celebrates a victory for the Méxicans against the French, when 2000 Mexicans repelled 6000 French - here in Puebla. 
(What is generally omitted from the tale is the fact that the French were riven with "the runs". A few days later, with less fire in the bowels and more in the belly they returned and kicked Méxican ass!)


By the by, Méxican history (a bit like Irish) is incredibly hard to follow. To an English speaker, the Spanish and local names (of people and places) can be hard to absorb, making understanding and processing difficult. I'm trying to get a grip on it, but it is not easy! 
Pre-Columbus is especially interesting. More than once in these parts (and further south), whole civilisations have just "disappeared", entire cities forgotten about and reclaimed by nature. 
As an example of my own ignorance, I had never thought that "American Indians" may be related to Mexicans. Of course they were, before the Europeans came. I read something last week explaining that many of the native languages developed from the same root - Nahuatl still spoken in México today. 
Similarly, while I knew the US had "acquired" land from México, I never realised just how much. From California to (but excluding) Florida, and relatively recently too (post 1847). Even today, the powerful neighbour has rights over water, for instance.
It's fascinating to me to take a point in history, draw a line on a map, say this is mine, that yours and pay no attention to what happened before that point. Fascinating and probably pretty dumb.

*The Plaza, fenced off. This area has been taken over to highlight the "disappeared". *​





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, May 12, 2021, Puebla to Tecamachalco 59km, Total KM 312
Min meters 2050, Max Meters 2349
Total Climb 212 Total Descent 323
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 36
Ave Temp 30



All that stuff about Puebla being different? Forget about that! 

Something was knocking around in my head all day yesterday as I wandered around Puebla and that was the quality of the roads for my next section. Specifically, after rejecting the Cuota to Puebla because of the shoulder. So, getting home about 9:30 I pulled up Cycle.Travel for another look. 
I wanted to go to Córdoba through some mountains using the Cuota, but on more careful examination the small shoulder (with rumble strip) wouldn't just be uncomfortable, it would be dangerous. More importantly, getting out would be close to a suicide mission as I'd have to use the same road in reverse while doing some extreme climbing. México's highest peak is there! 
I'm sure it seems dumb to some, but I've only seen Cuotas either with a decent shoulder or none - none of this half a shoulder and a rumble strip. Different States, different standards!
I spent the next 5 hours trying to string something together by doing loops but nothing was working. Getting in was tough, getting out was the real problem.
I could have continued (down) to Veracruz (I'd love to visit) but it's peak humidity season and sea level. I'll either have to continue along the coast (and melt!) or cross back into the mountains - square one. With some reluctance I changed my plans.

*Taking the side streets out of town and even there the street art is very impressive*​





This really is a place of contrasts. My AirBnB was located in the hills above Puebla in a very comfortable neighbourhood. My route out was very different! This was the México I know - broken streets, ramshackle housing, dogs wandering around. I stayed off the main streets as much as possible and for a while ran parallel to the main road where I was heading. Talk about chalk and cheese! Quiet streets, broken surfaces, but minimal traffic. One block over - chaos! Well out of the city I rejoined the main road. Busy, certainly, but I have my space. 

*Away from the madness, I have to contend with the odd dog, street seller and a few potholes*​





It wasn't the kind of road or cycling I had in mind when I thought I'd cycle the Americas, but it wasn't bad and needs must. Traffic lightened significantly after a turn off for the Cuota. Better again! In more open country a headwind picked up. Better and cooler! Then, unexpectedly, the road improved, I received a marked shoulder and there wasn't much more to improve! 

*No road markings, but more than enough space for me. Always something to watch out for, though!*​





Things were very pleasant until San Hipólito Xochiltenango where I saw a lovely Church in a plaza and pulled off to investigate. I was approached by a man with the usual chat and he wanted a photo, then an interview. Then another. Then a video of the bike and an explanation of the gear. In blazing sun, demand after demand I was getting hot in all kinds of ways.
Eventually I said enough but he kept on filming as I wandered around looking for a way off the plaza. 

*The church that lured me in for an interrogation. It was really unpleasant, especially after I said I had had enough.*​





A roadside restaurant soon picked up my mood!

*Mole, a traditional dish from Puebla. I couldn't find "the right place" for me in Puebla, instead I found it the next day on the side of the road! It's the sauce that is important. Different versions have different colours and can have up to 100 ingredients - including chocolate! This one was fantastic with a little heat coming through. *​





The rest of the day was hot, although the wind was cooling. This area is famous for soil (pottery) and stone (quarries) so there was always plenty of residue to contend with, but interesting scenery and decent roads.





*In one of the towns I passed through there was a "psychic diversion" for roadworks, one of those diversions where you just "know" where to go without the benefit of signs! Stopped, trying to get my bearings, a workman came over to make sure I wasn't lost *



​Then I got to my planned destination for the night, Tecamachalco, I headed for the Plaza (a grey square on Gizmo). This is the last town with hotels for a while, so with time to kill, I pulled up at the (roped off) Plaza. And waited. Sure enough, an old chap engaged me in conversation and when I asked for a hotel recommendation I got several. Now, whether his recommendations are suitable is neither here nor there, it's the conversation that counts! 

*One of the churches.....*​





I wandered off, found one of his hotels, cheap and decent, (in fairness to the man, I saw two of his hotels and he covered all bases - the other was modern and trendy) checked in and went out for an agua fresca - flavoured water. Mine had lime, chia seeds and cucumber (with bits!). Delicious!
*Another church*​





Back to the hotel as the heavens opened, showered, posted, then out for a walk and explored. Away from the main road it's a pleasant place with lots of churches. I had to duck in for coffee for another downpour, then later, yet another downpour limited my food choice. The restaurant had to switch off all power as their connection on the pole outside was sparking regularly in the rain! 
*More street art. I'm really starting to enjoy this.*​





Then, back to the hotel, poor wifi meant it took about 3 hours to upload photos and sleep! 


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, May 13, 2021,Tecamachalco to Cañada Morelos 43km, Total KM 355
Min meters 2008, Max Meters 2376
Total Climb 410 Total Descent 182
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 22
Ave Temp 31

It was cold in the morning ! And the roads were wet! There was a lot of rain last night. I slept well, was awake early, packed and hit the road.
I took a wander on the quiet, peaceful backstreets before dropping down to the main road! 
Chaos! With hectic morning traffic, a broken surface and lots of water hiding the potholes I had to be careful. 

Today I was doing something a bit different, heading into the countryside.

*Everything fresh and green in the morning!*​





I waited until I was well out of town before stopping for a coffee. I'd had a bit of a headache the night before and it was still there hiding out in my skull. I'm also finding it hard to eat in the mornings so a coffee is important for nutrition. 

Busy traffic quietened down and the landscape opened up with the definition of rolling hills to one side and a pretty big (highest peak in México) volcano on the other. This was more like it! I had blue skies, white cotton clouds, hills and a volcano - what more can a cyclist ask for?
*Volcano!*​





The temperature was slowly rising, as was the wind. It was strange, the sun was cooking me, but the air temperature was cool. When a large cloud passed in front of the sun I was on the verge of shivering.






I like cycling in the countryside. Traffic is more used to slow movers, people are friendlier. I got more waves and toots today than the last couple of weeks combined. The views are interesting, but it is important to pay attention to the road - there can be big holes! 

*At times the son shone on that hill, making it gold against the green terrain and grey sky. Nature's TikTok*.​





At about 10:30 on the edge of a small town I pulled in for some food. Possibly the world's smiliest woman prepared me a type of taco with chorizo and cheese. A lot of the food can be similar in terms of ingredients, it's the accompaniments that are different. Tortillas of different sizes made from different grains can be cooked differently, giving different dishes. And names! Don't get it? Try telling a Frenchman that all bread is the same or an Italian pasta!

A young girl, no more than 12 or 13, there with her younger brother was not in the least bit shy in asking for a photo with the stranger. Happy to oblige. 
Later, I asked the woman if they were her kids, getting a very definite "no". Her kids were minding the sheep! 

*One of my favourite shots*​





While sitting there I witnessed two ass and carts going by, one motorbike towing another (an inner tube tied on to the handlebars, rope from that to the tower - very clever, I thought) and the damage these topes (speedbumps) can do. A well laden pick-up lost its front right suspension! There was no swearing, no kicking the truck or tope! just a part of a normal day.

Continuing on I was really glad that I had taken this road. Mex 150 that I had left in Tecamachalco was more direct, but this was more relaxed. I'll probably have more of Mex 150 later. In fact, I was enjoying it so much and inspired by the signt of the volcano that I started to wonder if I had given up on Cordoba too soon. My destination today was Tehuacán but an idea was floating around in my head.

*Note the simple, homemade memorial. There are a lot of memorials along these roads, some elaborate, some a simple cross. Even in CDMX.*​





That idea was relegated by the sight of angry clouds rolling in. I debated whether to pull in or race it (our trajectories were different) and opted for the excitement. 

*Somebody peed in the sky's cornflakes this morning.....and I was getting the blame! *​





At one stage I got to cross the Cuota 
to Tehuacán (my next destination). Only two lanes, decent shoulder, but lots of truck traffic. Not pleasant for a bike.

After that they threw in some of those rolling hills to kick my ass! Up up up up up then down. Back up up up up up and eventually down. There were some nice views though, and on one hill a rigid truck hurtled downhill literally bouncing over and back across both lanes. I was pretty happy to have stopped at the side of the road for a rest! 

I was arriving into Cañada* Morelos and the idea wasn't going away. The idea was to have a go for Cordoba anyway. Maybe some smaller roads. My experience today countered the "Cuota effect" around Puebla. 
I turned off the main road and quickly landed up in the Plaza. What a delightful little place! I decided to put up here for the night, do a bit more research and decide tomorrow.

*They do like their entrance signs! In this part of the country the road is paved. Previously the surfaces barely exist!*​





First a place to stay! Google had nothing, I had seen nothing, so I went to a Government building and asked the friendly Police Lady with the most amazing smile! Even though covered with a facemask, the tips of her eyes tilted upwards! She didn't know, but one, then another colleague got called out and I was advised to go to a shop and ask there. I did, and the result is a brand spanking new room out the back. It took a while to get the Wifi working but the hot water is great! 

I shaved, showered, powernapped and went for a wander. What a lovely little town. Everyone is so friendly! 

Wandering didn't take long! This is not a big place! I was keeping my eyes open for some food and was delighted to spy a chicken place with two tables. I asked the pleasant lady if I coule eat there - of course - and had two of her daughters to wait on me! 
First I had to remove schoolbooks from one table and then got scolded for sitting down before it was disinfected. 
I had half a chicken, grilled over open coals, some rice, a few small potatoes, a simple salad and some tortillas and a lovely time with two young girls who were really trying!
I was in a seperate room, open to the street, the grill was on the footpath outside the next room. I could hear Mamá giving instructions, then one or other of the girls came in to follow them through. 
When I asked to pay, the younger sister deferred to the elder who pointed out that I had enough cash in my other hand to pay when I handed over a 200 peso note. I did, but not enough for a tip.
When she brought my change and I returned half, telling her to share with her sister she darted back into the other room. I could hear the commotion inspired by a small tip.
A lovely dinner.





Despite threatening to spill for hours there had been nothing more than a few drops. I took another little wander and got back to my room just as the few drops turned into a steady deluge.

While waiting for the slow wifi to upload photos I threw on the tv to watch the news. From Veracruz to Michoacán (with CDMX) in the middle there have been terrible floods caused by unseasonably heavy rain!! 







*Cañada Morelos has nothing to do with Canada. (Glen of Morelos). The ñ is not just an n!
A simple word like cono (cone) changes its meaning significantly when it becomes coño.
I learned this the embarrassing way at my friendly local bakery in CDMX. A cono is a delicious pastry, in a cone shape, filled with delicious custard. One evening I asked the friendly lady if she had a coño. Based on her reaction I went home and did some research. Coño correlates to an English four letter word also containing c and n.😊
(No nice bakery ladies were harmed in this story. They were used to me asking the names of the different pastries and practising. The next evening I pronounced it correctly and got a big smile!) 

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, May 14, 2021, Cañada Morelos to Orizaba 60km, Total KM 415
Min meters 1224, Max Meters 2366
Total Climb 628 Total Descent 1493
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 30
Ave Temp 17


I like to think that there aren't too many things on the road that will freak me out on the bike. I like to think that I'm reasonably switched on to potential hazards. 
Ha! Dumbass! 
México is officially the craziest place to ride a bike!

I'm finding myself very tired these days. I guess I must be out of practice!
It rained all night but had stopped in the morning.
I packed up and loaded up the bike. The Hotel owner didn't trust me very much wanting to check the room before I left! 
My first challenge of the day was coffee! There was no real place at the hotel to fire up the Trangia without getting wet and in a small town few options and none open.
*Not exactly the most inspiring view to start the day!*​





I had decided that I was going to head for Orizaba (just shy of Cordoba). This will most likely mean doubling back on myself. It's not like I'm in a rush anywhere!

I had the option of a back backroad shortcut - I took one look at the wet sand, puddles and muck and stuck with the road! 

The morning was cool, which is fine by me, but there was a wind blowing that kept me cooler than I would have liked. Traffic was surprisingly light out of town and there were times when all I heard was the wind and the birds in the trees, or just the wind when there were no trees.
*No trees, no birdsong*​





Everywhere I looked there were hills near and far, their tops shrouded in mist. I had a gentle upwards gradient and a diagonal or head wind. Tough, but the landscape made up for it. 
My calculations told me up for about 25km than all downhill! What could go wrong?

Well, for a start I had an unexpected long descent, buffeted by the wind. Then the ascent started in earnest a steady 4 or 5% climb. And I still hadn't my coffee!!!

I passed a couple of farmers out ploughing their fields in tiny, ancient Ford tractors. A friend of mine, a farmer, rails against modern tractors since gps and autopilot takes all the skill out of ploughing. No danger of these guys using gps! One had wired up a big speaker attached to a homemade roof for his tractor. Nothing for it but to pull in at a barrier, rest a while and enjoy some tunes!

The sky was dark and angry all day. A few drops threatened now and again but it stayed reasonably dry - but humid. 

That changed the higher I got. Out of nowhere, it seemed, a very heavy misty fog descended (or more accurately I rode into it). I took it as a positive sign that I was getting near the top of my climb. I quickly decided that it wasn't so positive when the occasional car or pickup drove past with no lights, almost invisible until the last moment. I switched on every light I have!
*Riding into a bit of mysterious fog*​





I arrived at Puerto del Aire (Gate of the Air) where I hoped to finally have a coffee. No joy. There was a shop, but no coffee. I got chatting to a man who arrived up with empty beer bottles, exchanged them for a full litre and proceeded to drink it before getting back in his car! At about 11am!
A romantic name did not live up to expectations! 

Unfortunately, this is also my introduction to the State of Veracruz and their poor roads! I put on my ex Dutch Army Goretex jacket with my bright orange HiViz vest and set off gingerly. Potholes, cracks, broken edges just added to the fun!

*This reminded me just how lucky I have been so far. The Devil's Backbone, the Appalachians were good to me. *​





I'm sure there were fabulous views because I could sense the ground to my right falling steeply away but I could see nothing through the mist. Visibility was less than 50 meters, so to be safe, when I heard an engine I pulled in. 

It was by doing this I came across one of the craziest things I have seen on the roads. I pulled in (to the right) as a pickup approached from behind. He went past me, on an incredibly tight hairpin bend - on the left! 
Maniac!, I thought to myself. Hearing something coming up I stayed put. A car came around the bend…..on my side!!

What they do, for some of these hairpins (only some) is to swap lanes. 
I had passed a very confusing collection of arrows on the road but could make neither heads nor tails out of them. I presumed it was some kind of practice or cockup. (There are all kinds of strange things on the roads).
Looking again, I could now see directional arrows around the bend, pointing the opposite direction of what I would expect to see! 

There were about 4 or 5 of these "bends" and I freaked out on each and every one! That learned me!

*C R A Z Y !! Not a mention anywhere that this might happen. I talked to a couple of Policemen in Orizaba about how confusing it was *​





Once the crazy descent was out of the way, things flattened out and I cycled through a series of long, little towns, each a bit chaotic and beautiful in its own way. Still no coffee! Gizmo showed me that they didn't extend beyond two or three parallel streets on either side. There were some random explosions of colourful gardens and regularly spaced sellers of Sunflowers. I love Sunflowers! These were in bunches up to twenty up to my shoulder in height.
*The valley I was going to cycle through. Another day andI'm sure it would be beautiful*​





Ciudad Mendoza was the first big town and had the first Oxxo I've seen since yesterday morning. Coffee!! 45km on the clock!

I sat for a while feeling the caffeine do its thing and set off again. In a moment of optimism I had removed my rainjacket - I hoped I wasn't tempting fate! 

I wasn't! It threatened all day, but didn't rain. It was pretty much all gently downhill now through ever increasing towns until I was effectively in a conurbation, only the entrance and exit gates marking off the places.

*Random splashes of colour brightened up the day*​





Heavy traffic meant that I pulled in frequently, more out of an excess of precaution and a desire to see where I was rather than necessity.

I got lots of toots and waves. One older man in a VW beetle flagged me down for a chat. Friendly, but full on - rapid fire questions! He warned me not to be on the road at night, offered me a place to stay and was very welcoming and friendly. 
Later, Cool Dude lowered his passenger window while driving along, slouched in his seat and texting on the phone - in heavy traffic! It wasn't the easiest conversation for me. 
Pulled in to photograph a church across the road a Collectivo pulled in to block my view. Sitting on the lap of her father in the back of the bus, a little girl smiled and waved. Of course, I waved back, then leaned forward, twisted Mazi and he waved at her too! Well, such delight! She was bouncing up and down on her poor father's lap, jabbering and pointing. The poor man smiled and waved as the buss pulled away, hoping, no doubt, to not see us again!
*Orizaba trees lit up at night*​





I rolled through Orizaba to get a feel for the place and then went looking for food. I found a delightful place for locals, had a delicious Milanesa de Pollo, some rice and simple salad, then off to the AirBnB.
Since I was so near to the AirBnB I paid no attention to the fact that a pannier was hanging off, I just walked around the corner.

It's on an "interesting" street and I couldn't find it. A well dressed man stopped, pointed it out, called the host and left me bemused! It's cheap, not terribly cheerful, warm, but there's a fan! 

I had a warm dribble (as opposed to a hot shower) and then looked at my pannier. Three of the four attachments holding the bar in place are gone! 





I had checked all these before leaving CDMX. Not good!
I set about the repair, then packed up and went exploring! 





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (18 May 2021)

Orizaba

A few of the towns I've passed through have the Pueblo Magico designation. Orizaba deserve theirs! This town has it all! And without selling its soul! A settlement before Spanish times it has a long history and due to its presence along the route to and from Veracruz it is well developed and wealthy, visible in the architecture. 
Tourism is a big thing here and there are lots of tourists around but it is also real. 
*Sorrounded by mountains, ironically I couldn't see Mount Orizaba, a dormant volcano and Mexico's highest peak*​





The old town is busy with all the usual things, none of this touristy nonsense thank you very much, while some of the buildings and parks are lit up beautifully and creatively at night. 
I can walk past an elegant hotel, uniformed waiters serving drinks and coffees to people dressed to impress under an arched terrace, walk ten minutes and pass a series of bars, most with "Saloon style" swinging doors, music pumping and the occasional chap staggering outside. 
I can walk past (another) big, glorious church up a bit, turn left and meet most of the working women in the town.

*You want elegance? You got it! I was in the courtyard of that building and can't for the life of me recall what it is!😊*​






However, as always, if you want to get a measure of a town, head for the park! And this one does not disappoint! 
Not the biggest I've seen, but if ever there was a kid focused park this is it.
Long, long past what would have been my bedtime at that age the park is thronged with kids. There's a central area, concreted which is the centre for battery powered cars - these ones have lights! Mixed in with all these young drivers are a few (speed) rollerbladers, one or two bikers and one uber trendy twentysomething on an electric scooter. There should be rows when two cars collide but ne'er a one! Sitting watching the fun there's a huge bouncy complex (not a castle, a complex!) behind me, a carousel opposite me, a typical playground with slides and swings over there, and trampolines, different ones for different ages. Of course there's lots of seating for parents and just over there a series of refreshment huts with snacks, hot and cold drinks. 
These are locals, not tourists.
Daytime Saturday is similar, but not as busy. Different areas are for different ages. Traffic is flowing around on all sides, inside is dreamworld! 

There's an actual river through the town - with water!! I've crossed many bridges in this country, but precious few rivers!





There's a walk along the river and frankly, I could fill several posts with it! It is wonderful on so many levels.
First of all, of course, it is for kids so there is a kind of a zoo spread along the few kms. I'll come across some kind of pigs, then a little later a bird enclosure and come face to face with a Toucan. 
*From the river walk. There's a suspension bridge for crossing. There are also a few viewing platforms that we can climb up. I watched bemused as a woman forbade her son from going up. When I climbed up I understood why - no railing, no nothing to stop people falling down! *​






There are tigers, jaguars, pumas, rabbits, hares and a donkey all spread along the riverbank on both sides. There's also a couple of bird cages that allow us to walk around "in" the cage, some monkeys and even crocodiles - in the centre of town! Kids love it! Cameras unfortunately don't as they typically use fencing of a very small mesh and often two or three layers of it.
But I'm also walking through the town and seeing how people live and lived. It's fascinating! 






Back in the centre and thinking it was all over (the zoo part was) I continued in the opposite direction until I ran out of path. What a treasure - El Paseo de Arte. Murals, of all types and styles painted on walls, on rocks and even on stairs. The sun was blasting me but there was so much to appreciate. Then walking back on the opposite bank, a different perspective. 
*Just one mural from this lovely walk. This one speaks to me because I'm always a teeny bit scared of what might nip my toe!*​





This is México so there are regular places to sit and relax. One larger area seemed to be occupied by locals.
An absolutely fabulous experience!

Back in the centre again I grabbed a coffee from a stall and plonked down on a picnic table. Browsing through the almost 300 photos I had taken, I was approached by an older woman and her mother looking to share the table. Of course, lardass had plonked himself in the middle!
Delighted to share I had a lovely chat with the mother enjoying a beer mixed with chili powder (I tried one before - vile!). 

There are cable cars that go up to a local vantage point but the queue was enormous. I have no problem travelling alone, eating alone, but the idea of standing alone in humid heat did not appeal to me (and again to get back down) so I set off exploring again.

*This is from the door of an elegant building on the main road through the town. If I wasn't alone, had decent clothes and not on a budget what a fabulous place to pass a few hours (Bar and restaurant)*​





This time I happened across a Wedding! I was walking past a church (it happens frequently) and spotted activity in the form of dressed up people so I halted. One chap, in plain clothes was all action, greeting, directing and disinfecting people. As well as a thermometer and hand gel, there was an airport scanner type frame that people passed through for a disinfectant spray.
I was watching for a good while without much activity, and was still unsure what type of ceremony it was. 
Then the Bride pulled up in a regular saloon car decorated with floral bouquets to remove all doubt. There was a degree of confusion inspired by her arrival and then a delay as she tried to exit the car in her elaborate dress. 
Traffic was well backed up but not a horn was heard. I liked that.
Out of the car she got her gel and spray treatment, (everybody but her was in a mask, a bridesmaid in a rich wine dress had a sequinned facemask to match!) acquired two young men, one in a blue suit, one black. I'm unsure of the tradition here, neither was old enough to be her father. (The altar was too far away for me to see what happened at the top of the church).
There was a pause while a late guest arrived, then two little boys dressed in beige linen pants, matching waistcoat and white cotton shirt with matching bowties (one had shades!) and a little girl in the same dress as the bridesmaid with matching handbag were organised to lead the Bride and her two men up the aisle. 
There was an excitement that was tangible, added to by a gust of wind that blew her train all over the place! She took one last look behind her (a last glance of freedom?), beaming widely and set off up the aisle. 
The church was quite full and more guests arrived after the ceremony started, upsetting the Covid man - he couldn't relax! 

*More "back door" views from the river. I love the lush garden!*​





Just down the street from the Church there was a Quince Años party taking place, a rite of passage for girls of, well, 15 years of age!
I'd spotted the preparations the night before as some guys were carrying tables into a big building. I took a peek. Everything in white! White tables, white chairs, white decorations. I took it to be the setup of a wedding it was that elaborate. And big too! Seating, I reckoned, for about 200 people! (All this peeking was done in coordination with the in and out activity of the guys unloading the tables).
Now, Saturday in the early evening, after the wedding is over and regular mass is taking place, the Quince Años party for Miranda is taking place! "Achy Breaky Heart", in Spanish is being belted out by a band (there's a dj setup as well). Outside there are small groups of very well dressed young men looking nervous. I get random chances to peek in and I'd be nervous too! Lots of girls their age looking very elegant in fine dresses!
It was very much in contrast to a Quince Años celebration I came across in a park the city. That was a far more informal affair. (Of course, I know very little about these things and it's possible that there isxa birthday party and a Quince Años party. 

*There's always a mountain, rarely a traffic free street!*​





I may not have gone up in some cablecars but I got to watch the excitement of a wedding and get a peek at Miranda's big day.

I was too intimidated to go into any of the bars. There was normally no way to see inside from outside unless I happened to be passing as a door swung open or closed. They sounded raucous early in the afternoon or later at night, seemed to have doormen (inside) and some seemed to have "friendly ladies" to lure menfolk in. Travelling alone and sticking out as I do in these parts I thought discretion was the better part of valour.

Orizaba, definitely a place worth visiting for kids….. of all ages! 
*The Park - it really was like another world*​






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (18 May 2021)

Sorry! Please indulge me ..... More art from along the river!

Frida






One of the first murals.... The colours are so vibrant





Art reflecting.....





Some of Mother Nature's own art! Look how the fallen leaves add layers






All kinds of styles are represented....





See what I mean?






Even the stairs get done! I'm no artist but I spent ages looking at this (and another one) trying to figure out how someone goes about doing something like this. Amazing!





All styles!





The sun is the only coloured part!






A little bit of everything!





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (18 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 16, 2021, Orizaba to God Knows Where 36km, Total KM 451
Min meters 1229, Max Meters 2111
Total Climb 1649 Total Descent 238
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 40
Ave Temp 27

Leaving Orizaba Part 1 (Yes! That's right! There are two feckin' parts!!!)

You want to leave Orizaba on a bike?
Don't! Do not. DO NOT! 
At least not heading towards Puebla.

(I've since had a look on CGOAB and no-one has done what I've done (that I can find). One couple took my route to Orizaba (and were very freaked out by the lane crossing!) but they had the good sense to keep going into Veracruz!)

In fairness, Orizaba is a place for staying in, not leaving.

As figaries go, this was not one of my better ones. I may go figary-less for a while.

Spotting a pair of tourist police on bicycles on my perambulations I asked about using the Cuota to leave as opposed to the crazy lane changing road. I said that I'd be leaving early. "No problem" they answered. 
To my way of thinking, the lack of a usable shoulder was only an issue with heavy traffic. 
And I was right! 

Arriving at the 4 lane split Cuota at about 7:30 the first thing I noticed was trucks - lots of them. For about 10km it was manageable and then it wasn't. 
*This was manageable, basically running parallel to my route into Orizaba which was one long conurbation*​





The real issue, as I had feared, was the feckin' rumble strip making the shoulder all but unusable to me most of the time. That, coupled with lots of trucks meant that when two trucks were passing at the same time (a regular occurance) I had no space except for the rumble strip. 
If there was a crash barrier the system was stop, hop off, lock the brakes and stand in front of the bike. I and all my worldly possessions were on one side of the white line, a huffing & puffing truck on the other. 

*The feckin' rumblestrip! Here it looks ok, but whoever was responsible for it was drunk because it weaved from white line to edge and back again. On the left, it was ok, on the right a little less so, but weaving over and back - that was no fun! Then the rain gulley - normally a PITA, today my saviour!*​





At one of those "stops" I dislodged my mirror and didn't notice until it was too late. 

At 15km I pulled into the first (and last) Oxxo for coffee. I retrieved my spare mirror from my pannier, chatted to a policeman (heavily armed, in a balaclava and his office had sandbags in front of the door - not flood defences!

Back on the road I endured probably my worst day's touring on a bike and probably the most sustained danger I've been in for quite a while.

The motorway actually splits twice, the route going uphill taking a very different route to the one going downhill. Have a look on Google Maps, Mex 150D from Orizaba to Puebla.

*Look for the red truck, then look higher for the white one!*​





It was all uphill (the couple of short descents didn't count because then I noticed the wind!) and I walked most of it for safety reasons. Every now and then I'd chastise myself for being too cautious and then the Walking Gods would deliver a sign in the form of a crazy overtake, a double trailered truck skidding on locked brakes or a wooden crate falling from a trailer and exploding all over the road. They use an innovative cooling method here for the transportation of fresh fruit or veg - they leave the back door open! I passed a pineapple, battered and squished and wanted to take a photo (unsafe at that time) - it's title would have been "Méxican Roadkill"!
When I say "walk" I mean walk and jog and stop. I'd rarely get more than 100 -150 meters without having to stop either due to a blockage, parallel trucks or just nowhere to go. The rain gulley beside the road, so often a pain in my ass was my saviour for much of the day. If clean of debris and flora I could use that to walk in. If not, on the road with all the stopping and starting.
Occasionally, a gulley under the road meant railings and even less of the minimal shoulder so that required a break in traffic and a run! 

*Setting off, the morning had looked so promising!*​





At different times, traffic could bunch up. I might have 30 or 40 trucks rumbling past having been slowed by terrain or other trucks. Standing on the side of the road hanging on for dear life was ….. interesting!

*Enough complaining! Look at that! A feckin' Volcano!! Mount Orizaba. Nothing like a Volcano to say "Adventure!"*​





I wasn't worried about my legality on the road - more than enough police trucks had passed me. I had even passed a man walking on the rumblestrip on the "fast" lane! Then a Police pickup rolled slowly past me, slowed down more, let me pass on the inside, turned on their lights and kept the lane - all for me!
All of a sudden the two lanes were one…. And me!
That is a feeling! 
I was powering on pure emotion. No horns, no aggression, just a steady stream of traffic lumbering past. It was fantastic…. Until I couldn't keep going. I held it as long as I could but seeing a bit of rough ground I pulled in, received lots of waves and grins from my escort and watched as the tailback slowly started to break up! 

*Layers of mountains*​





Moving on, I caught another tail - a different police truck towing a pickup. When they pulled in I did too, to a very strange restaurant. I ate, drank a cold coke and set off again. On foot.

By now my gulley was overgrown and unusable and traffic seemed heavier so progress was very slow. I started thinking about the possibility of overnighting in the mountains, a very real possibility. The sun was blazing, Gizmo was reading 40 C and I was getting tired. On and on I went forever upwards barely noticing the dark clouds rolling in. A few big drops threatened now and again but never followed through.

*Sometimes on tough days we have to look really hard for the beauty in life. Taking a breather in a rain gulley, big, fume-belching trucks rolling past me I saw these little guys working furiously*​





Spying a shop (lucky!) I loaded up on water to give me the option to camp - there's no accommodation on this stretch.

*Always look behind you!*​





By 5 pm I knew I wasn't going to make it over the pass so I was scanning for options. I found a lovely field, but it was overlooked. Eventually, I found a farmer's road through his fields. There was a spot higher than the traffic on my road that would be invisible after dark. All I had to do was wait for darkness to fall. Out of sight of traffic I laid out on some grass and dozed.
Later, as dusk was falling I waited for a gap in traffic and hiked the bike to my spot. Tent on the ground waiting for poles I was punished for my cavalier attitude to the weather! With an almighty bang of thunder a ferocious storm began pelting me with huge raindrops while the sky was flashing with lightning! From 0 to 60 in one second. I got the tent up, gear in the porches and lay down inside. 
What a treat! Fabulous! The sound of the rain hammering down, the sky lighting up at a frightening frequency and I had everything I needed within reach.

*The view!*​





This was a really tough, unpleasant and dangerous day. Entirely my own fault. Despite that, I smiled a lot. Sometimes all we can do is laugh!
I received no sign of aggression. Very few toots even though I tried to salute every driver that gave me space. Maybe the truckers weren't happy that I was there but they didn't show it.
Not today, not tomorrow, but someday I know, based on my experience, that I'll look back on today, not with pride, but a fair whack of satisfaction. 






I remember at 8:30 switching off the kindle for sleep. 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (19 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, May 17, 2021, The Side of the Road to Tehuacán 73km, Total KM 524
Total Climb 720 Total Descent 1200
*I messed up Gizmo - numbers are best guess

Leaving Orizaba Part 2

I woke up a few times during the night (the road was busy all night!) not knowing where I was. I'd figure it out and then drop back off to dreamland.
I was awake properly at 6 and pleased to hear no rain. In fact the wind was billowing so that was even better for the tent. I was quite refreshed given my location, bubbly sleeping pad and the fact that Veracruz is one of those "don't be doing anything silly" states.There was feck all light though! Up and packed, I found myself waiting again for the sun to rise to my height. There was no way I was taking to the road in the dark.

*Dawn in an unknown location!*​





It's an interesting paradox about the stealth camping bike tourist. We go from wanting to be as visible as possible to invisible and back again!

*The view!*​





As soon as the sun cleared the mountaintops I was off! 
Walking again! It wasn't too bad! I made reasonably quick progress (by my new standards!) and after about 10km was rewarded with a surprise restaurant! Food! Better again unexpected food! I ate and rested. Then rested some more.
The good news was that I had about 3 km more to the pass then downhill! The next town was Esperanza - Hope! It had a Love Motel. A day on a bed sounded real good!

*About 5km in I passed close to a village. This is their cemetery*





*And their church!*​





I met a crew carrying out road repairs, moving from one pothole to the next. The process was that the truck stopped, two lads jumped out, the bossman dropped a bag of tarmac onto the road that got hacked open with shovels. The tarmac was dumped in and around the pothole, (the bag thrown to the wind!), it was patted down with feet and shovels. Then the truck was directed to reverse over it a couple of times, everyone back on the truck and off to the next one!
The Bossman was all chat and when they moved on I walked in front of the (poor) fella whose job it was to wave a flag at traffic to stay out of the lane - again, I had a lane to myself! I cheekily did this all the way to the top, waved my thanks and roared into a sweeping descent.

*4 km downhill!!!! WooHooo!*​





I roared! I bellowed! There was no song appropriate for the emotion - just a manly, "I made it" bellow! 
It felt so damn good! 
I still had to stop occasionally for overtaking trucks, but that was fine. Near the toll booths the traffic was piled up for at least 2km - I just sailed past! It was interesting to see all the trucks massed together - a busy road.
I nearly missed my turn, but was able to hike across to my turnoff. Thank the Touring Gods! Anymore time on that Cuota and I'd have gone mad!
In the "wrong" direction I spied the familiar Oxxo logo and tore up the road! Coffee!!!!
I sat in the cool shop, savouring my coffee more than 7 hours after I had set off. (No coffee this morning - I was saving water).
I felt like a bazillion dollars! The last two days were feckin' hard. But all was good in my world! 

Feck the Love Motel, says I, whipped up Osmand and decided on Tehuacán, 50 odd km further down the road. There were a couple of Love Motels on route if I wanted a fallback, or even the Hotel in Cañada Morelos, but frankly the guy in the hotel had acted so suspicious of me I was in no rush to return. I did think about turning off, though, for more chicken!

*View from near the top!*​





I took off in a completely different landscape - drier, browner and into a headwind. I didn't care! This was cycling! I was moving! There were hills, sure, but they were short and conquerable, and the headwind just kept me cool - Gizmo was reading 40C! A general downward trajectory did help, in fairness!

At first I was on a quiet, secondary road but at Cañada Morelos I turned back on to Mex 150 to cover a shortish stretch that I had done on the way to Orizaba. Mex 150 was a bit busier and a couple of trucks were a bit impatient.

*The open road! *​





About 10km from Tehuacán I could hear thunder, then forked lightning in front of me - in a blue sky! Wow! A light show too! I spied an Oxxo, pulled in for coffee and got called over by two cops as I sat in the shade. Uh oh!
Was I alright? I'm travelling by bici??? From the US???? I'm going where??? My adoration society fell flat on its face when with no warning they took off after a car waving their salutations and telling me to take care! Never a dull moment!

As it turned out, maybe stopping for that coffee wasn't the smartest move I made. As I was flying towards town I was enjoying the lightning still flashing in the blue sky (at one point two forks crossed in front of me. "X marks the spot", thought I, taking it as a good omen. 
Ha! Dumbass!

*Before the storm.... Open country!*​





As always on the edge of a big town the traffic system went a bit crazy. I had plotted a route to one of the cheapest hotels that I could find, reviews mentioned hot water and I needed some! Osmand had plotted a route from the Oxxo and as I turned off the main road I breathed a sigh of relief as it should be quiet streets from now on. In 30 seconds two things happened - one a massive bang of thunder signalled the start of rain and two I went over a tope and my rear pannier jumped to hang by a thread. Literally. The only thing holding it was the strap from my rack bag (two panniers and rack bag are connected). The rail was fine, exactly where it was supposed to be - on my rack. It was the bag that was in the wrong place! 

I really didn't have much time to worry. I pulled up under a balcony as the rain started deluging and surveyed the scene. 2.8 km to go, no reservation and no way to attach the pannier. I had no idea when the rain might stop and that led to yet another poor decision - I put on my rainjacket, hung the spare pannier off my handlebars and went for a walk.

Some people might describe it as a swim!

In all fairness, it was a glorious experience! It wasn't cold, in fact, the rain was very pleasant, refreshing and invigourating as it soaked me through and through. God knows I could have done with a wash! 
Corners were tricky because there may be a drain there and no guarantee it was covered. It was amazing to me how quickly the streets filled with water and rivers started flowing! I tried taking several photos but a wet phone and wet fingers do not cooperate! The water was quickly up to my ankles and then higher and flowing like a river. Outflows from roofs poured down too, but after a while I stopped noticing!
Oh, in all the chaos of trying to get a loaded bike with one pannier hanging off a handlebar up onto a footpath during a deluge I got my flag caught in a tree branch and snapped it in half! All I could do was laugh!

*The only deluge photo I have. This is an overflow pipe from a roof just pouring out across the path! Normally they stick out from the roof. *​





A sodden mess arrived at the hotel. Efficient, yes, cheap, yes but not a single comment about me, bike or my dilapidated state! 
(To give an idea how cheap, this hotel doesn't provide toilet paper!)

It's funny. I've taken trips before to hotels and research has been quite detailed. These days hot water is the top priority! Location, probably secondary and then some wifi.

I got everything up to the room, fired up the shower, waited a while and had a glorious hot shower washing everything in there with me! 

Fresh, dry clothes and I was ready to explore! I'm not far from the centre but it's getting dark and I need food! 

Within an hour of the end of the rain the excess water was gone! Yes, puddles and potholes, but the rivers? Disappeared underground. 

This is a strange little town. For one thing, there are a lot of streets that run diagonally - they are really messing with my sense of direction! 

I didn't get to see a lot, just some food and a coffee.

In the interests of coming clean, I am carrying a spare 32 tooth cassette and chain. In CDMX when I got the bike serviced, he put on a 28 tooth cassette. I wasn't bothered at the time - cassettes were 10 a penny and I'd have expected to replace it anyway. Not when I was getting ready to leave were they ten a penny! No 7 or 8 speed cassettes to be found! I finally found one on Amazon (ironically after using English words rather than Spanish). Given the scarcity of cassettes I've left the 28 tooth on. 
Not anymore! It's coming off! 
Tomorrow will be a belt and braces pannier repair, new cassette, new chain and new rear gear cable - I can feel the tension increasing as a sign it's due to go. I'd replaced the front derailleur cable before I left.
I can re-index gears, it just takes me a while! That job may well be my day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (21 May 2021)

Tehuacán. Tuesday, May 18, 2021​
Don't be asking me too much about Tehuacán! I didn't see a lot of it!






I was walking out the door just before 9 am to get to a hardware store for some nuts, bolts and washers for my panniers. Enough plastic! Steel is real!
The first two weren't open yet, the third a big warehouse type place.
Not the kind of place I can browse and pick up what I need, a place where you ask for things.
A lady served me, not saying a word. I had brought a spare nut and bolt that I had and explained I needed the same a little shorter and narrower. I had the rail from the pannier to test size.

*I am loving these ads! Bright and useful! *​





I got sorted relatively quickly, got a ticket, was directed to a small cubicle to pay a mystery person screened by tinted glass. (This is common, even in the likes of a bakery. A lot of stores have an armed guard!)
I grabbed a coffee and headed, I thought for home. Diagonal streets confused me, so I took the long way home!
*This monument was in the hotel grounds. Religious ornaments are not unusual in businesses, I was amused to see a wooden cross, fresh flowers and a lit candle in the reception area of a motel! What made this unusual, is that at night it is lit up and a medley of tunes are played as if from an 80's game console - robotic and tinny. All night long!*​





I got the pannier back into a working state, then wandered out for food. Side by side, I bought some chicken and potatoes from the grill, then a liter of fresh OJ from a girl with the most beautiful smile - mouth and eyes. I stayed chatting with her for ages it was so pleasant.
Then back to the hotel, ate and picked up the rear wheel for a trip to the bike shop.
It was a repair only place, not much more than a corridor running from front to back with the most amazing collection of frames of all ages, shapes, sizes and degree of preservation piled up along walls, hanging on walls and ceilings and stacked higgeldy piggedly on an old table.

*I saw this building and I thought... "Nice door"*​





I explained that I needed the cassette off, no problem, and a gear cable, no problem. I offered him the old cassette which he gratefully accepted. 10 pesos he charged me - about 50 cents. Then back for the hard part.
Actually, it went better than expected!
With a repaired pannier and more mountain friendly gearing on the bike I went off wandering.

I didn't go too far, I was feeling very tired. I found the church and the little Plaza, sat for a while and watched as a toddler, barely able to stand up straight ran gleefully through a flock of pigeons. So much fun!

*This is the door*





Heading home, the heavens opened so I ducked into the first taco place with seats to eat and wait the rain out.

*This is an example of what was painted on the ceiling above the door!*​





At home, I decided to review my route to Oaxaca. There were two options, Cuota or Libre, with the Libre being my preferred. There's a problem on the Libre - a longish climbing section with no services.
But the Cuota has long sections with no services too, although not as extreme, and likely will have less shade.

*And more!*​





I researched a third way, really going out of my way, but that had longish supply issues too!

*These trees seem to be popular in these parts. They bring a wonderful, vivid life to wherever they stand.*​





Oh feck it! Time for bed. I'll make my mind up in the morning!

*The whole porch area was painted! It was fantastic! At first the Policeman was pleased to see someone so interested, then a bit perturbed. I'm pretty sure by the time I left he breathed a sigh of relief and removed his finger of the trigger!*​







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (22 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, May 19, 2021, Tehuacán to Teotitlán de Flores Magón 66km, Total KM 590
Min meters 877, Max Meters 1640
Total Climb 498 Total Descent 1151
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 47
Ave Temp 30

I was awake at 6, but with all the fustering I did last night looking at routes I had to pack everything from scratch. That can take a while!

Packed up, I set off sticking to quiet streets until I was diverted off course by roadworks. Spying a 24/7 (this region's answer to Oxxo) I pulled in for a coffee - better & cheaper! Then I joined the madness that was the morning traffic.

Over my coffee I had a think and decided on the Libre. It may mean roughing it for a night or two. 

I had spotted a man labouring up a hill with a shopping trolley, fully loaded with oranges and a citrus press mounted to the trolley! I've never seen this before, but then I saw another and another! Spying yet another outside an Oxxo I pulled in, parked up, ordered a ½ liter of juice and popped in to buy water.
Felipa was a few feet away on the path selling jewellery and had to come and talk. And talk! A delightful lady! No way was she letting me pay for the juice! I argued. No. Just no.
She wanted to know all about me, where I had been, where I was going. No problem being direct - "How do you live?", "I sold everything". 
I introduced her to Mazi, more delight. Photos! Facebook. 
There on a busy, narrow junction with people going hither and tither, a little snapshot of México's attitude to strangers. 

*Felipa. The two men stayed quiet in her presence! Hell, we all did!*​





It was with regret that I had to roll on. Getting out of town was surprisingly easy - they even laid on a decent cycle path!

*Look across the rubble - you'll see where it continues! It's actually a very good path and safely seperated from traffic with kerbs. Except for this one section!*​





Then it was back to the open road! There are mountains in every direction I look, blue, hazy, indistinct but very, very real.

There were a few villages along the way, and a road wide enough for three lanes - the third lane being bi-directional! Nature was enclosing though with maize right to the edge of the road. 

*They may be small towns, but they really announce themselves! *​





Then I hit what I have not been looking forward to - a Covid checkpoint. The flag waver asked me to pull over, the next guy was an opportunistic vendor, seizing his chance to sell snacks to the stopped drivers, the next guy was in Police uniform asking where I was going.
No problem! He just wanted me to wash my hands in gel - we laughed at my cycling gloves and my fingers getting gelled was enough. 
Then he started asking about my trip, personally, not professionally, and his colleagues up the road hollered down telling him to offer me some water! 
I've heard of foreigners being turned around at these, of bribes being necessary, so it was pleasing to get one under my belt in such a positive fashion.

That was my introduction to Oaxaca - my newest Mexican state!

*Hazy, blue mountains calling me.... *​





I rose out of one of these towns, the road widened and before me the land was spreading out in invitation, so I did what I do - I pulled up! Time for a photo and to water a bush.

While resting, a chap walking a bike approached me for a chat. It turns out he had a puncture so i offered to help. Telly Savalas had a mullet in comparison to how bald this MTB tyre was! I could put two fingers through it and wiggle! On getting the tube out, there was a 7-8cm tear along the seam. No normal patch was going to work! 
I have a length of tube patch material which I've never used before. I found it, cut it to (over)size and glued it on. 
It held!
I booted his tyre with some spare inner tube that I had and had to explain a couple of times that this was only a temporary fix. He seemed to think all was as good as new!
This was his front wheel - his back wheel was so buckled it wouldn't spin a revolution without being forced!

He told me his name (I forgot!) and referred to me constantly as "guero", or blondie. Guero this, or guero that. This is common here, people call it out often as I cycle past. I'm told it's a friendly term (but like all things that can depend on context) but I've never felt it in a negative way. And there's no denying my hair colour! Of course, the opposite is "negrito", most certainly not the "N" word. There was consternation in these parts when a South American footballer from Manchester United used the term in a tweet and was criticised (and fined) for it. Here, it's a friendly term, a basic recognition of a fact. 
Here I'm Guero, and that sits fine with me.

*My School is my second home, but home is my first school. I really liked that.*​





Hitting the road again, it was getting hot. Hazy hot! Blue mountains everywhere hiding in the haze. 

I stopped at one town for some food, Mole with turkey, served by a woman who will never feature in any "how to be hospitable" videos. But the food was delicious! Cats though! Grrrrrr! I hate cats! Especially when they paw my leg looking for food!

*A river!! An actual rio with water!!! Time to whip out my water filter!*​





It was perfect riding - changing, interesting scenery, decent road, minimal traffic. 
Then I started climbing. Gizmo reading 39C. Hard, but doable.
At the town near the top I rewarded myself with an ice-cream. A bit more climbing and I was in the desert! Cacti everywhere! 

*A real day of contrasting colours and landscapes, but always with mountains looming over me!*​





Pulled in to take a photo, a Police car pulled up - uh oh! Nah, just wanted to make sure I was ok! 
I started a gentle descent through land burnt brown and dry. It looked wonderful and so different from only a few km back the road. 
Soon I was back in the land of Maize again! Green everywhere! 

*A dried out river bed (soon to be seasonally filled) and look at that country!!*​





While gently rolling down, the pleasant breeze calming the worst effects of the sun I faced a concerning conundrum that I haven't had before - I went to sing and nothing came out! I couldn't think of a song! Normally, I can't get them out of my head - today nada! 

Small little towns offered a short break out of the sun. I'm finding the heat manageable, the bright sun less so. Too long and I can feel a headache coming on or a little lightheadedness. On the basis that prevention is better than the cure I'm happy to stop and relax. For perspective, Gizmo got stuck on 39C for a long time, then rose to 46. And I could feel every one of those degrees on me! 

It was a very interesting day. "Up high", in reality not that high, there was scrub and lots and lots of cacti - great for letting me know I'm in México! "Down low" there were irrigated fields of maize and more greenery. 

Rolling in to Teotitlán de Flores Magón I decided that this was far enough for today. I knew there was at least one hotel here. Closed! But IOverlander showed another. A very pleasant girl checked me in - to the top floor! - and promised lots of water for a shower. It may be a pain in the ass to drag everything up two flights of stairs, but the view? 
(This hotel had toilet paper, but no toilet seat!)






Once gear was in I went searching for liquids! I found an orange juicer and bought a liter, a liter of cold water (the water on the bike could cook pasta!) and returned to my room and rehydrated. I may even have dozed a bit.

Then up, shower and as I was about to explore the heavens opened and the nightly deluge began! Back to the bed.
When the worst was over I ate at a restaurant close by. It's going to be an early one! 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, May 20, 2021, Teotitlán de Flores Magón to San Juan Bautista Cuicatlán 56km, Total KM 646
Min meters 543, Max Meters 1015
Total Climb 794 Total Descent 1165
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 52
Ave Temp 28


"I'll head for the mountains", says I. "It'll be cooler", says I.
Ha! Dumbass! 

*This is what heat looks like!*​





When I got back to the hotel the wifi had stopped, so with no distractions (and no updates here) I read my book until sleep drew me away.

Awake at 6, I really wasn't feeling it. I felt very sluggish, but got up, had a shower, packed and realised it was still dark! I got my stuff downstairs, picked up a coffee and lazed around until it was well bright enough to head off. For some reason I'm not eating in the mornings but figured I'd pick up something on the way.

*Is it real or is it just fantasy? Sometimes it's hard to tell what is real. Cycling up the feckin' things soon sorts that out!*​





I'm still heading generally downwards, but I'll be paying for that shortly! There were a few climbs, tending towards steep and short, but long, gentle descents. In front of me the mountains are various shades of blue. On either side mountains are closer, browner and filled with scrub snd a great variety of cacti.

The first town, surprisingly, had no food stands so I was glad to pull in to a lovely little place at the next one. Eggs and chorizo with a little bowl of fire! There are so many types of salsa that I've learned to sample first! It may seem strange (it did to me!) but there is something desirable about a little heat with your breakfast! 

*I love this type of landscape! Tough, hard, surprisingly alive and a place to let the inner child roam free!*​





There is something to be said about the toilets in these places! Here, there's a sign up with complicated instructions as to where the toilet is! (Down a side street). Typically, they are very basic - a toilet seat is an unbelievable luxury as is a light! Usually there is no running water or at least no visible method of flushing - to the uninitiated!
Us seasoned travellers  look for a bucket, normally outside. There should be a tap close by! That's how we flush!
Today, I watched a gentleman take his bucket to a sink outside the restaurant, but the bucket wouldn't fit under the tap. I watched him getting frustrated, looking for an alternative until the bossman came over and solved the problem. He placed the bucket under the sink (there was no waste pipe), turned on the tap and the water flowed down the drain into the bucket!
Everything can be an adventure here!

*The land could be dry and arid or lush and green, but there was always a feckin' mountain!*​





From then on it was getting hotter, up to a sustained 46C. There was precious little shade. I was passing through Cañon Alas Verdes - a canyon!
I'd climb a little in oppressive heat then descend in wonderful coolness of the wind. Rinse and repeat. The road surface was less than desirable and made all the more interesting by regular rockfalls. 

But…..
It was magnificent!

*It was amazing to me to see how much life this muddy, seasonal river brings*​





I had an idea that this area was pretty, but I had no idea just how pretty! To top it off, I had it pretty much to myself! There was precious little traffic (although Murphy's law was in force - it was amazing how many times two passing vehicles ocurred in my vicinity!) and I could pretty much stop at will.
I know I'm far, far away from the American west but this countryside brings so much reading to vivid life!
There were times today, especially when rolling downhill I was 10 years old, astride a horse and chasing outlaws! Trust me, that's fun! 

I stopped regularly and often to take a photo or two, but really just to soak it all up. Sometimes I left the bike and wandered up and down the road. A couple of times there was a series of tight, extended s-bends and my view changed from curve to curve. 

Magical!

*That's my road! Feck me if that isn't saying "adventure" in every language!*​





Unfortunately, the problem with such an approach is sun! I really started to feel the effects of too much sun but there was precious little shade available. Spying minimal shade under a tree I pulled up and passed a pleasant half hour doing nothing much. I've bought some electrolyte powders and add them to water when it's so warm it's unpleasant to drink, so I mixed up a couple of liters and sipped the time away. 
Poor Roccado was left in the sun and when I started again Gizmo was up to 52! Try sitting on a saddle in those temperatures! It's been a while since anyone told me I had a hot ass, but I can definitively state that after letting Roccado sunbathe my ass was hotter than ever!

As at the start of the canyon I crossed a muddy, brown river and immediately noticed a change - the country became greener and there was a definite dampness in the air. 

*Early morning, cool shade and lots of green*​





I think I would have travelled through similar country on the Cuota and while I would have had a shoulder (on a two lane road) I imagine there must have been more traffic, especially trucks, and I would have been cut off from the country. On the smaller roads I am right in it! And that suits me. (The Cuota follows a different route).

I rolled down to a tiny town and pulled in for a cold drink. From now on I'm running short of accommodation options…. and descents! In a while it's all uphill all the way to Oaxaca city. Methinks I'll pull in down the road and make use of the last decent hotel I know of.

*After crossing the river near the end the country came to life again*​





I did just that. The hotel is interesting. My room, for example has elaborate mouldings on the ceiling, very elegant, but the bed has seen a lot of gymnastic activity and is sunken and dilspidated. The wall is stained and in need of paint for what looks like a decade!
There's an interesting feature in every room, a wooden framed hole in the wall (internal to external) with a rotating, wooden ¾ cyclinder inside. It's the right height to take a bottle of booze, presumably for discreet service!
The thought of a bottle of booze horrifies me! Jeez but I'm boring!

*It'll seem silly, but this was a great place to lay an ambush for outlaws!*​





I took a wander up town before the daily storm. There's not really much to the town, but I am always struck by how lively these places are. Last night after the downpour the town was hopping! 
The hotel wifi was down (and wouldn't stretch to my room anyway) so I tried an internet café and paid for the privilege of uploading my thoughts. Oh, how I miss CDMX with reasonably decent and free wifi in nearly all the parks!

I'm shtumped about tomorrow. Not only are my usual sources showing no accommodation options, the maps are showing feck all towns! I've seen enough places, normally motels, along the road that don't show up on the likes of Google Maps, but they were always around towns that, at least, Google does show!

*Blue Mountains! There's a vagueness to them that is so alluring *​





There's 80-90 km of road to the next town, 2100 meters of climbing and few, if any, places to eat and drink. 
There is one place about 10km down the road that I may be able to camp at. 10km! That'll be a short day!
After that it's in to the unknown! With blue skies and bright sun any water I have anywhere will heat up. If it's like today with minimal shade I'll cook, never mind the water! It really is a case of throwing myself at the mercy of this country! 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, May 21, 2021, San Juan Bautista Cuicatlán to San Francisco Telixtlahuaca, 83km, Total KM 729
Min meters 589, Max Meters 2315
Total Climb 2429 Total Descent 1047
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 46
Ave Temp 29

I think I wrote a few days ago that when I imagined riding in the Americas I hadn't thought much about that day's roads. Well, today was the kind of day I'd imagined. 
I got my ass well and truly kicked but I had a dumb smile plastered to my face for most of the day. 

I slept surprisingly well and awoke refreshed a little after 4 am. I think the bed may have retained "happy thoughts" from its previous customers and passed some on to me as I slept! 
Knowing me, if I went back to sleep I'd be groggier later, so I got up and brewed a pot of coffee. I was definitely tempted to hit the road and make the most of the coolness, but the road surface is very poor and I saw enough rockfalls to convince me that I'd need maximum visibility. I got ready and hit the road as soon as I deemed it bright enough.

You never know what you're going to meet on the Méxican roads and today was no different. Mudslides were Friday's challenge, great swathes of mud (and rocks) on the road. And packs of dogs, more alert in the cool of morning. I have been getting dog chases again, but I speak "Mexican dog" now and while they bark, they don't bite. 

I find that there's often a point at the start of the day's ride that offers a choice and the decision taken will echo through the day.
On a day like today where the sun is going to play a big part the choice arrives in the cool morning with the first photo opportunity. Stop and take the shot or gain as much distance in the cool?

*Take the shot! So cool, fresh and mysterious! Even those mountains look benign!*​





It was in my mind to consider staying over at a possible camping spot about 10 km down the road and just soak up the scenery. When I got there I realised that was just putting off the inevitable so I continued on. What better way to soak up scenery than by cycling through it? 

The first "Comedor", or eating place, I came across was closed so I pulled up at a little store for some muffins and coke. There's another place to eat down the road, another shop and that's about it. Oh, and 2100 meters to climb! 

Setting off again I was carrying 3,5 liters of water in two large bottles, 3 liters in my camelbak on my back and 75cl in the squeezy bottle on my handlebars. I knew I'd need more especially as I was anticipating a spot of wild camping.

I took out my iPod and plugged in the little speaker I bought last year. I haven't used either in months so it was great to listen to old friends. Purely listening! There was little breath or energy for such flipparies as singing!

*Crossing a muddy, dirty river. It is amazing (to me) the life it brought to the valley*​





I enjoyed the early departure, the coolness, the hazy blue mountains and relatively quickly I came to the last little village for quite a while. The shop was closed. As was the Comedor (eating place).
Uh oh! I had been counting on those!
Thankfully, I found another small store selling everything from motorbike helmets to 4wd tyres and cookies. Initially I got excited when one of the girls working there said they had food. She pointed to tins on the shelves. Her younger sister piped up and offered tortillas and cheese! Sold!
I had some goats cheese and tortillas, terribly dry on its own, but nutritious. She even made me a Nescafe coffee! Very nice girls, they were doing some online studying (schools are opening up soon). 
I'd already drank over 2 liters of water, in the cool, so I replenished. One of the girls told me that there were no more shops! (The hotel folks told me no hotels, either!).

*There was more green today than yesterday, more birds and lots of life. Neither alone nor lonely!*​





I started to realise that this was going to be like my desert crossing - only uphill. Up my sleeve I had the backup plan of just turning around - I'd freewheel back to my startpoint!

I crossed a muddy, brown river, looking bigger than yesterday (another heavy storm last night) and it looked like my road was going to be following the river for a while - just higher.

The climbing had really started, the sun had risen and I was not feeling well. My head started to throb. Seeing a tree offering some shade I pulled up. The higher the sun goes, the less shade. No point in pushing myself, there'd be no shade at all later. I took the same attitude to water. I drank as I needed not trying to ration.

I passed where Google said there was a Comedor, nada. The next, according to Osmand was at 36 km. In the meantime I reached a viewing point so pulled up the same time as a car (family) and a pickup (two men).
Sitting on the wall, one of the men came over with two mangoes for me! He barely spoke, just said here you go and went back to his friend. I have no idea how to eat a mango! That's when I discovered I'd left my knife in the little shop. Dumbass!

*On top of the world!! (Only I wasn't! There still was a fair whack to go. In typical Mexican style, loads of rubbish had been dumped over the wall. *​





It was sitting on the wall that I gained a bit of perspective. A pretty large beetle had made a ball of gravel and sand and was busy pushing it somewhere. It must have been two or three times his size but he kept at it. I could see no obvious place where he was headed and couldn't hang around to find out. 

Setting off again, I was a bit unsettled when a car slowed down, speeded up, slowed down then pulled in ahead of me. A guy got out and handed me a liter of water. I was refusing no water today! He just said something like you might need that and returned to his car. I tried to engage him in conversation but he wasn't interested. I pointed to the view and commented how beautiful it was. He just shrugged. Just a kind gesture.

*Every now and then a reminder of just where I am! *​





Coming up on 35km I was starting to feel a little apprehensive for two reasons. If there was no place for food/drink I'd have a problem and the second was that I had seen no possible locations for a wild camp. None, not a one! It was far too early to consider camping, but I like to get a "feel" for the countryside. One side of the road rose steeply, the other fell away. 
Riding past a few houses I was over the moon to spot a restaurant! Food! Rest! Shade!
I wasn't that hungry, but I had eggs and chorizo and lots of liquids. I filled up all my waters again, Another 4 liters gone and set off again. I had gone 36km and had about another 30 to go to the next restaurant on a map. At about 8 or 9 kph excluding breaks that was another 3 hours, optimistically. But after that, (almost all) downhill to the next town.

I didn't push myself, I stopped regularly for breaks and drinks but rarely in shade. Again, I found myself getting a little lightheaded, taking longer to process what I was seeing than usual. When I did find a bit of shade I pulled in and sipped. 

Because the road twisted over and back I'd sometimes get a light breeze. Oh! So beautiful!

Looking at the climbing profile on Gizmo I was over the worst for steepness and making good progress on getting to the top. The other side was more gentle, mainly downhill and should mean some camping options, if not, a run to a town and hotel was looking possible.

Of course, by focusing on the high point it meant that it took for ever to reach! However, I did start to notice possible spots for a camp and noted them on Gizmo, a handy feature. I also started to feel nauseous. I put it down to all the water consumed. 

*Way, way, way over there that's "my" road! The really good thing about a day like today for me is that it's next nigh to impossible to get lost!*​





That's all the technical, riding stuff out of the way. But what was it actually like? How did it feel?
It felt feckin' fabulous! Passing through red rock that had been blasted to let the road through, steep reddish cliffs soaring upwards on one side, dizzying ravines plunging down on the other covered in trees and green scrub and always, in every direction, more mountains, the close ones full of detail the further ones a blue mystery. 
Occasionally I could see my road ahead above me stretching to God knows where, and sometimes I got to look at where I'd come from, "my" road getting smaller, thinner and fainter in the distance.
Except for the very high, dry parts I had animal company, birds singing, chirping and some that just screeched like an alarm. Beside the road there was often hefty rustling in bushes suggesting something big, perhaps not the most comforting sound after my snake & reptile museum visit! I shared the road with many, many lizards who scrambled for cover. 
It was never boring, no matter how slow I was going or how long I sat in whatever shade I could find. Around every curve it seemed, there was some variation.
Unlike the climb out of Orizaba, I had very little to worry about, I could be entirely in the moment and let my imagination roam free. Freedom! 

A road through a hill, soaring one side, straight down if I don't take the bend (guardrail? What's that?)​





Over the top, a gentle descent began, sweeping me through slightly different country. The trees, some of them orange, growing in the hills reminded me of the Appalachians. 

I was watching the sky because rain is inevitable every day but while some angry clouds gathered, they stayed out of my way.

*Anyone see a spot for a tent?*​





Now I really started to believe I could make town. I started thinking of a hot shower, proper food. I imagined a cold beer! My first in a couple of weeks, well deserved! I developed a vivid image of a golden glass, condensation forming and slowly trickling down the outside. I could feel the coldness, the wetness when my hand enclosed the glass…...

Ha Dumbass! 

Two more climbs! The second nearly killed me. I had legs of jelly. I got off and walked. The sun was going down but I figured once I was over the last hill I could fly down. To keep myself focused, I thought about what I encountered this morning - dogs and mudslides and sure enough, I had them on the way down! 
Soon it was pitch black but my headlight showed me enough to keep me safe. In fact, it was better than quite a few vehicles coming towards me!

*What do you do? Dark clouds are rolling around, the sun is sinking, there's still a bit of climbing and you're heading into a strange town in a strange country on the other side of the world? You stop and take the shot. You take a moment to appreciate just how good it feels, how battered but how alive you are.*​





Of course, the entrance to every Mexican town requires care and this one was no different. Heavy rain here had left mud and filled potholes. Packs of dogs appeared confused by a bike with a light so only went for me when I had passed. It was like they said to each other "Feck me! That thing behind the light is a bike! After him!!!"

Gizmo led me right through the busy town (Friday night) and to the hotel. The lady smiled when she offered me the choice of a ground floor or upstairs room knowing full well my response and told me to wheel the bike right in to the room. After 14* hours on the bike (and not a drop of rain!) I did just that!

*Gizmo breaks that down as 8 hours riding time, 6 hours "paused".

There's no earthly reason I should have enjoyed the day as much as I did. Incredibly slow progress in sustained heat and sun, occasional bouts of being unwell, disappointment of non-existent stores, hard, hard physical effort, but this was different country, beautiful in its own way, firing my imagination, filling in images to scenes read long ago. 
Small acts of kindness from random strangers when all the advice is just "No!". There was little traffic so at times I felt so alone, just an explorer, pitting himself against nature - and coming out the other side.
I arrived exhausted, but elated.








Just a reminder for those interested, there are more pictures on Strava

https://www.strava.com/athletes/22850894

and Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/HobbesOnTour

And I think you can look at an album of photos from the last few days on Google
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ncKTDdszP1yMBXhP9

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, May 22, 2021, San Francisco Telixtlahuaca to San Agustín Etla, 68km, Total KM 797
Min meters 1641, Max Meters 1751
Total Climb 524 Total Descent 550
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 40
Ave Temp 35

*Street art across from my hotel*​





Oh, it was planned so well! A lie in, a hop, skip and a jump down the road to a campground on the outskirts of Oaxaca. An afternoon lazing in the sun, basking in the glory of my recent achievements.
You can see where this is going, right?

*Look at that for the perfect day for the road!



*​My hotel last night was ….. interesting! The (sliding) door that separated the bathroom from the bedroom didn't work, unless falling on top of me counted as working!
Most of the bedroom floor got soaked with shower water which washed a couple of big ugly bugs from under my bed.
I had conquered 2400 meters of climbing - Godzilla could have been under the bed and I couldn't care less!

I was writing up yesterday's notes and noticed the time - 11:53! Time for sleep. I switched off the light and had the wonderful feeling of Sleep weighing down on me and taking me away.

For Sleep, it was clearly a one night thing because I woke up at 6 on the dot! My lie in!! Ruined!! Nothing for it but to get up. I grabbed a coffee and wrote up a few notes, debating staying or going. I decided to go, but slowly. My body was sore and reminding me of my efforts yesterday.
I still felt like a bazillion dollars, though!






I packed up, ventured off for more electrolyte powders and got ready for the massive journey of about 25km! I couldn't be bothered going back to explore the town having passed through most of it last night. I just wanted to relax and town was busy!

I set off unbreakfasted, planning on something further down the road. After 2.6 km a restaurant called me in and I enjoyed a fabulous breakfast, adding more and more heat with each bite. Unlimited coffee meant I sat a while.






I set off again in brilliant sunshine aiming for a 3pm arrival. Lots of time to relax! The road was busy, but very decent - baby smooth new tarmac for a long time (balanced out with sections of rough stuff) but the sun was shining, hills all around me, mountains comfortably far away. All was good in my world. I climbed, I descended, I grinned. 

The campground is glorious, if a little pricey, but I was made welcome and can pitch my tent under cover - a boon in the rainy season.

*Heading to the campground with a song in my heart!*​





It was while checking in I realised I was missing something! My camelbak!! At the restaurant, 2.6 km from the start!!!! Normally it lives in my rackbag, but since it still contained water I strapped it on me when I set off. 

DUMBASS!!!!

To add insult to injury, the last thing I'd done was send a text to the guy who gave it to me, thanking him again!! Oh irony, you are an evil mistress!
Nothing for it but to dump my gear and head back!






I took off like a rocket! It's amazing how light the bike feels! I pulled in for a cold drink and ice-cream and had a chat with myself. I could whinge the whole way (and back!), my default position, or I could have some fun! I opted for fun! 

It was great! Zipping along the flat at close to 30kph, flying down the many hills, even going up was fun! I took a tope at full speed - amazing fun - but I won't be doing that again!





I got to see everything again, from a different angle. Sometimes after driving I can't remember parts of my journey, that rarely happens on the bike. Little landmarks told me how far I had to go.






Pulling up at the restaurant, my waiter spotted me and told me he had my backpack! I was so relieved! I gabbled on that it was for water and important to me. I was told to take a seat and in a moment my camelbak was beside me and a cold glass of lemon water in front of me. He would not accept money for the drink.

I relaxed a little bit, then set off again! Dark clouds to my left were bringing rain but I made such progress I missed them. I raced clouds…. And I won! Close to the campground I pulled in for some food and only then realised how tired I was. 






Back to the campsite, tent up, cold shower (certainly not the plan!) and I took over an extra large picnic table to make coffee. It's weird. I've made coffee in the porch of my tent, but give me an extra large picnic table and I can fill it! 







I've booked an odd little AirBnB for Oaxaca for a few days to look around and figure out where to next.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 23, 2021, San Agustín Etla to Oaxaca City, 22km, Total KM 819
Min meters 1556, Max Meters 1692
Total Climb 52 Total Descent 163
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 43
Ave Temp 35


It was never going to be the most challenging of days, a short ride into Oaxaca, my next city for a bit of exploration. As things turned out I was glad it was a short day.

*Nazareth Funerals - my first thought was do the dead rise up on the third day?*​






I love sleeping in a tent! There's something primitive and basic about it that appeals. I remember as a kid playing in a tent in the garden. A big, yellow/mustard cotton 2 or 3 man, A-frame. It must have weighed a ton!
Later, we got a blue/red one that was nylon I think. There was always a great smell in them, especially the cotton one. 
There's something about sleeping in a tent that wakes up some kind of inner child in me.

*There is a lot of Public Art in these parts - they even paint the electrical boxes!*​





I set up my tent under a kind of awning yesterday evening, different surfaces requiring different pegs and sat down at a nearby picnic table to post an update. Near midnight I turned in. Internet coverage can be slow!
Under cover I could be adventurous so left a door open on the outer and used only mesh to close the inner. Nice and cool.
I lay back (on my bubbly mat) and spent a little time appreciating where I was. The campground (in reality the main business is cabin rental) was in the countryside near a small village so the night was filled with the sound of crickets (close) and dogs (far away). Very peaceful. A soft pool of light from the campground filtered over me as I picked up my kindle to read a little. Immersed in a William Trevor story I became aware of movement over me - a shadow - with legs - lots of them - and huge!!
Talk about a shock! My instant reaction was to sit up but as I was doing that I realised that probably wasn't the smartest idea!
As it turned out, it didn't make much difference. The spider was outside, walking across the mesh of the door to my bedroom. With light coming in from behind it, it was bigger and spookier! Still pretty big though and he seemed to be staring at me the whole time he was moving!
The first time I regretted not bringing my hipflask! For a stiff drink - not murder!
Mindful of my recent guide in the reptile museum I left the spider in peace and went back to my book. 

*A nice start to the day before all the chaos!*​





Again I woke up just before six! Waaaaay too early! Rolled over and eventually crawled out a bit before 9.
A lazy pot of coffee, a chat with an old dog (Pepino - who calls their dog "cucumber"??) and I slowly started getting organised. 

My slightly odd AirBnB is proving difficult to communicate with but we seem to have settled on a 3pm arrival time.

I set off and soon was back on the main road to Oaxaca. A little later it merged with the Cuota and from then on it was quite busy. There was an edge to traffic, a "get outta my way because I'm coming through" vibe, mainly from the bus and taxi drivers. I'd had no breakfast planning to eat and pass some time on the way in.
Not my best plan ever - all the food places on the way into town (my side) were closed! The other side was across 4 lanes of slightly aggressive traffic.

*Uncomfortably busy. There was even a kind of a market along the side of the road. It wasn't so much the volume, but the tone of traffic. *​





Getting nearer to town and frankly, getting sick of the traffic, I saw a traffic jam and an Oxxo so pulled in. I coffeed and relaxed and got ready to roll off again.
The traffic jam was still there. A motorcyclist, lying motionless on the road, people standing around looking, presumably waiting on an ambulance. Or Police. Or both.

This wasn't the first accident I've seen here, nor the first one with a victim left in the road. But it was right there on top of a low level edge I'd been feeling since I got on the main road.

A couple of hundred meters later I got off that road and took broken, fractured and frankly, fecked, roads into the centre. Roadworks diverted me onto even worse ones. I did not care. I just wanted away from traffic. 

Once past the crazyness on the edge of a new town or city I generally enjoy the side streets. Not today. My mind was back up the road. There were other motorcyclists there. Were they his friends? Was someone looking out for him?
It's the big fear of the solo traveller, isn't it? An accident leaving us alone and injured. Manageable most of the time until something brings it front and centre.

*I took no more photos after the accident scene. This is from the city later*​





Near the AirBnB I had to go back onto a main road for a bit. I took the path and walked. An hour early, I pulled in and had some food.

A break from the road, a bit of food and a cold drink helped the mood. I walked around the corner and into my AirBnB.






Showered and in fresh clothes I set off walking into town. The Centro Histórico is not terribly big and I soon found the Cathedral, the Plaza and the heart of the place.
There's nothing quite like a park or a Plaza in México to settle an uneasy mind. All the world is there and, so far, never a bad vibe. Sit and watch the world.





Other than bubbles, a recent toy appears to be long tubes filled with air. These can be in different sizes in terms of length or width but the basic objective is to launch them into the air where they will hang before slowly drifting back to earth. Watch the face of the little lad when Papá launches it much higher than he can. First "Wow", (Gaau! en español), then a little face creasing in concern as it hangs, then "Yaaaaaaay!" as it returns to earth. Sound boring? With the smaller ones they can double up as sabers or lances! 






Beside me a woman sits down with a baby, sex undetermined, for a sketch from a caricaturist. Before they get comfortable, her friend spritzes the baby's hair and wipes its face. Yes! Because that is what the caricaturist is going to pay attention to!






More relaxed, I took a wandering route home, deciding shamefully to pick up a pizza on my way home. And two beers. I've earned them over the past couple of days. 
I've a balcony outside my room, excellent internet and my plan was to relax, eat, savour a cold beer and watch a little HIGNFY. 
For a change the plan succeeded!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 May 2021)

Monday May 24 Oaxaca

I was a good little tourist! 
Over morning coffee made on my own balcony (how luxurious) I browsed my Lonely Planet and saved all the things to do in Oaxaca.

My plan didn't survive my first contact with a signpost! 
Panteon - cemetery. I turned around and headed off. I found it easy enough - not an endorsement of my navigational skills, more an indication of the size of the place, did a full lap but it was not open. 
The most interesting thing I saw were three female backpackers, weighed down with heavy bags and what I took to be bad moods. They did not look happy. One was lagging behind and I interpreted that as a splitting of a trio.
I got back on course for all of five minutes before I wandered off again. 
I am not a good tourist! 

*I really, really liked this street - trees, shade, seats. Perfecto!*​





The first thing is that this town is different. That's a good thing in my book - if I'd done all that climbing to arrive somewhere familiar I could don a dress and join those backpackers.
I'm still figuring out the difference, though. 

The Spanish were slow to settle here without military backup and the locals have tended to be rebellious right up to the present day. I don't know if that influenced the architecture or not, but the centre is low, rarely above one storey, seldom above two and it is very unadorned, simplistic, almost, in comparison to other places. I really, really like it. 

*A typical "elegant" building in Oaxaca, built using local stone. To my eye it's solid, relatively unadorned. Rarely above two stories.*​





There is a lot of graffiti. A lot. And political in tone. And very contemporary - a lot expressing Solidarity with Palestine. 
I can't claim to understand the context of some messages, but others are pretty clear. 
It's strange. I passed through Sligo, North Carolina and saw lots of Israeli flags and pro Israeli signs and here in Oaxaca it's the Palestinians they support.

*A picture tells a thousand words*​





Elsewhere, there are protests against the Federal or State Government. This area has a very high proportion of indigenous people and their relationship with authorities appears difficult. 
Sorry, that's a cop out. 
Protesters have been killed with Government involvement.
I know one area of contention has to do with NAFTA and standards introduced (or dropped depending on your perspective) wiping out small communities growing maize. 

The more I read about México the more complicated it becomes. It is a testament to the people that they seem to rise above it. 

*This is an ambulance. The yellow rope you can see is securing the two parts together. And it is still in use!*​





Traffic seems to be controlled or limited, at least in some areas so I can wander at will, pretty much, in some streets and if I'm not careful, die under a speeding car in the next! This is another place not to be stepping into the street for a photo. 

Oaxaca is famous for its Artesanal products and there is no shortage of stalls, especially of clothing. And especially Ladies' clothing.
It is fabulous! (as I wave my jazz hands!)
Colours that could kill a man if suffering a hangover and designs that would bring him back to life afterwards when worn by an attractive lady.

And people wear them. All the time. It might be a traditional top with jeans or a full dress or other mix and match options, but I am captivated by the colours and the shapes. They can really highlight a female figure of all dimensions, reveal and tease without ever veering into poor taste.
As a man, I get a feckin' Panama style hat! (In reality I love them but in terms of travelling by bike? Not terribly practical!) 
It's a bugbear of mine - women's fashions. In warm weather they have such a choice - dresses, skirts, shorts, trousers, tops of infinite styles. Then there's materials and colours. And if that wasn't enough they can wear men's clothes too! What do the lads get? Shorts, normally to the knee and t-shirts. Maybe a linen pants and shirt combo. It's not fair, I say!






Chocolate and coffee are products from here too. I did not know this when I arrived but there is a chocolate hotel here!! 
Unfortunately, not made of chocolate! 
This is "real" chocolate, not the processed stuff we get in most of Europe and nothing like the crap poor Americans north of the border have to eat! 
Like wine, or whiskey, a good beer or sauce, this has to be savoured, held on the palate and time taken to let the flavours conquer your apprehension and then your palate. 
It's so different, yet with hints of familiarity that it can be a bit unsettling. I thought I had hit the pinnacle of hot chocolate in CDMX when I was presented with a big bowl of hot milk and a big cube of chocolate on a stick to melt in my milk. Then I had chocolate and chili here.
*There is an old aguaduct in the town (in use up until the 1940s). Behind it are houses, some with lovely entrances*​





Like other places there is a great mix to the old town. There are the "shopping streets" bustling and full of activity. Then there are more quiet streets that are a pleasure to walk along and see nothing and everything. "Ordinary" buildings with fantastic doors, or bright colour schemes, often contrasting with, but somehow complementing the neighbour. 
*The aguaduct again, this time a small street behind it*​





Again, street art here is fantastic. Not just tolerated, but seemingly encouraged. Is painting on walls not our oldest art form? 
And, as always, to revert to contrasts, a fine building has a wreck as a neighbour. There's a real estate agency I came across geared towards American investors. I wonder how the locals feel about being priced out of their own town?






Then there are the tourists. I don't know if it's because I'm on my own and try to blend in as much as possible, but I find them loud, brash and typically inconsiderate. I see very few smiles and the snippets of conversation I pick up give no indication of happiness, comfort or indeed much interest in where they are. My poor hostess in the AirBnB asked me this morning what I thought of México - she's lucky I ran out of vocabulary after about 10 minutes!
*Colours everywhere!*​





The snippets of conversation I pick up have feck all to do with México.
I suppose to be fair, I have a huge advantage in how I'm travelling. Bouncing around on buses or taking a rental car on the road add their own filters and stresses and probably reduce each place's individual characteristics. 
"It's Monday, this must be Oaxaca." - I don't even have a bus schedule to take into account. I'm free! 

Having said that, tourist numbers are clearly down. I saw a lot of cheaper Hostals closed although the more upmarket, stylish ones were open, but empty.
There are lots of tourist oriented cafés/bars/restaurants and they are not busy. At all. The problem for them is that a lot of the museums are closed at the moment. Just about every gallery or museum suggested by Lonely Planet is Covid closed.

*The Botanical Gardens - closed.*​






Maybe I'm not such a bad tourist after all!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 May 2021)

Tuesday May 25 Monte Alban

I got to have a glimpse of how the other half (half? 99% more like) live, or more appropriately, travel. It was educational. And may prevent some blue air the next time I find myself doing a long, long climb. Some! I said some!

I went to a world renowned, UNESCO listed site and I got excited by trees. What does that say about me?

My hostess had offered to arrange a tour of Monte Alban, a local tourist site. I had planned to walk out and do it myself but I thought what the heck - let's do this!

Monte Alban is a remarkably well preserved site of an ancient city (other parts of the city existed on different hills).

*Looking down from on high! *​





I was picked up at 9:30 am - at my front door, no less, brought into town and hopped on another minibus. My travelling companions were two young women from Michoacán, a couple comprising a Mexican man and his wife from Atlanta, Georgia and an America guy who was working (by phone) while on vacation.
The two girls kept to themselves, the American preferred the company of the Georgian lady as they complained about lots of things and compared notes on the rest. Her husband was a delightful chap, long time resident in the U.S. but seemed very happy to be "home".

*Mis compañeros were stumped too!*​





Monte Alban is far too much to take in in one day, never mind the couple of hours we were actually there.
There are more than a few cities like this that have been abandoned and no-one really knows why.

We merged with other groups from other buses and I joined the small group with an English speaking guide.
On a site so big they don't even try to cover everything - it seemed that each group made their own way around focusing on different aspects.
The guide knew his stuff but, in fairness, wasn't great at communicating it. Diagrams about daily movements of the sun in different seasons degenerated to a stick making squiggles in the sand. I had done zero research, having only a hazy, vague collection of information.
Similarly, pointing to a faraway building behind his back and referring to it by (archaeological) number was confusing since from different perspectives we all saw him pointing at a different building.






There is a museum at the site entrance that was closed that I'm sure would help draw all the different strands together.

After a while we were set loose on the buildings! Quite literally! There's a low wire around most buildings and signs staying stay away, but clambering on the ruins, if not encouraged, wasn't exactly called out! For some, it was open access!
A fresh approach!

Little information boards display basic information.

The complex is amazing though. Designed and built as an astronomical complex it betrays a very deep knowledge of the year, the sun and its movement. It's beyond my comprehension how this was planned, never mind built on top of a feckin' mountain all that time ago. We have measuring tapes and pencils - what did they have?
Other aspects of the design are beyond impressive too. For example, in open space the acoustics are perfect, as demonstrated by the echoes generated by a simple handclap. One person speaking could be heard clearly by a large crowd without amplification.

And yet it is dull too. There are buildings in a big field. Without specialist knowledge, without understanding how one relates to the other and without knowing how they actually looked at the time it becomes boring.

I am a bad tourist!

I was amused by a collection of stone carvings, mostly male, that the info board suggested were captive kings of other local groups who were castrated and sacrificed to the gods. I thought they just were fond of exposing themselves until I read the board.

*Not the most graphic example!*​





The two highlights for me were the views (from 2000 meters) and a corner of peace and calm under trees. A young couple had the same idea as me and were taking selfies in this little corner. I took a few of them together then had the place to myself. Bliss! Looking up through leaves that were yellow and green into a blue sky was very calming.
Sitting down and being still the lizards came out to play! Way over there people were wandering around a field of old buildings thinking of residents long gone while here I was watching the current residents!
*My corner!*​





There were other parts of my tour other than Monte Alban, I just wasn't sure what they were! Had I being smart I'd have said my goodbyes and walked back into town.
We drove for a long time to a roadside buffet restaurant. In comparison to what I've been eating it was overpriced and under quality.
Then on to a ruin of an abbey/convent/church which was closed due to Covid.

*The ruin snapped through a closed gate*​





Next was a trip to an Artesenal workshop where they carve, then paint animals and other strange things from local wood.
I found it fascinating!





We got a demonstration of the carving process, starting off with a machete down to more refinement with knives.
Two young people were painting - detailed, time-consuming and incredibly precise. The sheer number of shades they had at their disposal was mind boggling.
I chatted to them both, a little in awe of their patience.
*Just look at all those little pots of colour!*​





Then we went to a little house were a cheerful old woman was weaving and gave a demonstration. I had seen similar in the city the day before.

The last visit of the day was to a local pottery place that perfected the art of black, shiny pottery. The chap doing the presentation was not a happy camper and frankly, I couldn't wait to get out of there.

*I travelled in my mind back to my corner and the trees*​





All these places have shops selling their wares and no doubt the driver is on a commission. The "weaving house", because it was small could only take a few people at a time so different buses pulled up at different houses!

There is an "Artesenal Route" which I'm sure would be more interesting to follow in a car, especially with language. Somehow, on a tour, it just seems a bit like watching a show and a tad exploitative. But who was being exploited?

It was a relief to get back to town at about 5:30 so I grabbed a coffee and sat in a corner of a church plaza for a bit of people watching. I needed coffee! All that sitting was taking it out of me!
It was also interesting to see a potential route from a minivan - kinda scary to be honest!

If that was typical of my "tour" of México I'd have given up long ago! I couldn't handle that. It was really strange to have a schedule! Let loose on Monte Alban we had a time to rendezvous in the carpark. That felt so strange to me! The lack of control over where I was going also felt uncomfortable.
I feel a bit uncomfortable in stores or workshops at the best of times - I'm travelling on a bike, I can't be carrying anything more! - and I don't want people to waste their time on me.
Then, there's other people. One person made no attempt to hide their impatience at a couple of places and was quite rude.
The Mexican gentleman was a delight, though. He pointed to branches of trees and bushes, picked seeds from the ground and had stories to tell from his youth.

When I saw that most of the museums were closed in Oaxaca I wasn't really bothered. I visited museums in CDMX that I either wanted to see inside or because they had something I wanted to see. I'd much rather wander around and get a feel for a place and its people.

Monte Alban: I went, I saw, I got a little bored but was saved by trees and lizards!

*Hmmmm Get the ruin or get the view? Bad Tourist!!*​





Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 May 2021)

Wednesday, May 26, 2021
Planning!

Where to now? 
Oaxaca is a fairly big and Interesting state with everything from mountains to valleys to the Pacific coast! And lots and lots of pre-Hispanic ruins.
It was my rough intention to get here and slow down (not that I've been breaking speed records!) and do a bit more wandering. Less main roads, a bit more backroads and a bit of camping.

*A lovely calm plaza in front of a church. The church is a wreck!*​





It was Alex back in CDMX who suggested this state. When I asked where, specifically, he just smiled and said everywhere! 

*A fairly graphic example of what some people are protesting about*​





However, there is a problem - Covid. There are famous waterfalls quite near here where access is by backroad through either one or another village. Except it isn't. Locals have chained off the road - no access - and especially not to foreigners.
Chatting to my hostess' father, himself a bit of a cyclist, he told me of local villages that he won't ride to. 
IOverlander is full of reports of roadblocks and unofficial tolls too - they're not fans of the Federal Government here and are not afraid to take matters into their own hands! 

*A Ford Mustang in immaculate condition*​





With that in mind I took an extra day in Oaxaca to do a bit more research. 
The next obvious place is Puerto Escondido on the coast, a laid back haven for backpackers and surfers. 
I think I'll pass. That's not all snobbery, I've seen reports that the road there is poor in places and it has no shoulder. Also, that will give me the longest ride in the coastal lowlands in pretty hot temperatures and potential heavy rains.

*Street Art!*​





There's another road to the coast that arrives further south of Puerto Escondido and a third even more south. It's longer, will keep me in the mountains for longer and will deposit me near the coast at Tehuantepec. Plus it has a shoulder, although as it is close to a major port possibly a lot of truck travel too! 
That's my road!

*Sun setting behind the clouds, Oaxaca*​





My understanding is that at this time of the year the weather is brutal on the coast - very hot and humid with lots of mosquitoes. There can also be some very serious winds! This way will have me in the coastal flatlands for the shortest distance before climbing back up again. If it turns out not to be so bad then I have coastal options.
If I take a figary(!), I'll be close to the narrowest point of México - I can do another continental crossing!
Ocean to ocean - again!
*Those airtubes that are the source of so much fun!*​





Then, more inland, back into mountains and a gentle wander south. That will have me pretty close to Guatemala or a bit more east and I'll be close to Belize - not a friendly place for bikers, I believe.

*The Bike makes people happy. Hands up all who know that June 03 is International Bike Day!*​





Don't get me wrong, I know I'm damn lucky to be doing what I am, but this approaching of a dead end does tend to drain some of the optimism. Add to that the fact that I am getting back to being on my "route" provisional as it was, through Central America. 
It's a bit like walking to your favourite restaurant, seeing the lights and the ambience, smelling the aroma of all the delicious food inside but it's a private party - no entrance today. It can be hard to focus on the quality of the walk with the ambience and aroma denied.

*An example of graffiti. Brave Women don't be submissive nor obedient - Arm yourself!*​





*I have to hand it to the street sellers. All that stock put out to be removed at the end of the day or when the heavens open!*​





On the positive side, in this land of wonderful trees, my first pit stop tomorrow is a huge, massive tree!

*A field with some old buildings*​






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (30 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, May 27, 2021, Oaxaca City to San Pablo Villa de Mitla, 51km, Total KM 870
Min meters 1521, Max Meters 1689
Total Climb 324 Total Descent 165
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 39
Ave Temp 31


Tim Tower on CGOAB took my route out of Oaxaca. He commented that he found the countryside very pretty and regretted doing a couple of long days. I am in no rush and will bow to that wisdom! 
I'm heading for the Pacific coast but these will be quality, not quantity days. It's not like I'm in a hurry!

*Some very impressive street art in Mitla*



​I was actually a bit excited to be hitting the road again when I woke up this morning. There was a noticeable ball of tension in my belly at the thought of traffic but I'd a fair idea that I'd be out of it soon enough and into some interesting country. 

Interestingly, I had had enough of Oaxaca too! There were no regrets that I was leaving despite the fact that I really liked the place. There's a vibe, an edge to the place that I appreciated. There's enough evidence around, especially in the art, that says, yes, we may be a tourist destination but we're a community too, and we have things to say. I didn't have an awful lot of time to dwell on the thought (traffic saw to that) but my superficial conclusion was that I had had too much contact with the "processed" side of the city and its historical attraction. Too much "there's a great Margherita in that place but that one makes a terrible cocktail". Too many tourists following each other and not appearing to be particularly interested or inspired. 

I brewed a pot of coffee on my balcony (oh! The luxury!) and got myself together. Brought all my stuff downstairs and everything outside for loading up.
My bike had been moved to park a car and that's when I noticed that 3 or 4 zip ties had been snapped off my flag and it was effectively detached. Not a big deal, but I wish they had told me as I had to dig back into a pannier for more zip ties. Later, I discovered that my second, smaller flag is missing too. It may have been the kids! 

*Oaxaca - a very pretty town in parts, a gritty town in others. I really liked it.*​





Leaving, I took little quiet streets for as long as I could before joining the main road. Not bad at all! In one of the bizarrest shop/speaker combinations I've witnessed, a Pharmacy was blasting death metal - at 9 am!!

My first target was only 10km down the road - The Tree of El Tule. Of all the things to be affected by Covid I was not expecting it to be a tree! The park it's in is closed!!! 
For some reason that affected me more than it should. I was quite grumpy and deflated. I only wanted to see a feckin' tree!!
Stopped, I was approached by a couple on bikes, he on a tricycle. He wanted to go on a long bike trip too! 
I told him about CGOAB for alternative bike touring ideas, but while they were pleasant I wasn't really in the mood. It was less a conversation, more a gentle interrogation. 
Making my excuses I headed off again, the road out of town a series of potholes more interesting than Monte Alban and some, seemingly as old!
*El Tule is actually a very pretty town and my peevishness aside I'm sure the town is suffering badly. *​





Back on the main road I had a bit of a dilemma. What I had seen when I checked on Google was that this road had a generous shoulder. And I still thought that - except for the fact that the traffic didn't! It wasn't wide enough to take a car, but they still used it! In reality, it was grand. Traffic gave me lots of room.

I was passing through a long valley with mountains and hills near and far. I was finding the scenery interesting and changing constantly as the clouds moved as I meandered along. 

Leaving a town there was a large Police roadblock that I approached hesitantly. I got smiles, waves, thumbs up and nothing but encouragement. 

*There was always something interesting to see. I don't think I'll ever get tired of blue mountains!*​





Passing a ruin on the side of the road I was reminded of other ruins around here. A quick check of my map and I pulled off at the next turn. I knew nothing about these except that they were neglected and probably empty. The road was a tease, though. I'd much rather be on these country roads than the main ones.
On arrival, I was right - empty! I could ride right in. Except a man there, who didn't identify himself, told me it was closed.
How is an open space closed? (I didn't really say that)
Ok, I said, I'll just look. (I did say that)
No.
What? I'm supposed to close my eyes? (I didn't say that either!)
I was just taking my camera out when a minibus pulled up.
My new friend wasn't happy with these arrivals. Did they not know it was closed?
In all fairness there isn't a single sign anywhere, not at the turn off from the main road, not at the car park and not at the open gateway to the ruins saying "closed". I felt like telling him to write something on paper and I'd stick it up at the end of the road on my way out.
That's when I got a little lesson. A Mexican with the group in the bus had a chat with Señor Grumpy, some money changed hands and now things were different! 

The other people on the bus were Americans, one telling me he was Californian and a cyclist too. Then he added he'd never ride his bike "down here". There was something in his tone that irked me, something in the way he said "down here"
You should try it, I told him, it's great.
Again, his reply rubbed me wrong, restating no, never and "down here".
That's your loss, I replied which, I think, rubbed him up the wrong way because he snapped back that he had lots of cycling to do at home. 

Since they were now getting a chat from Señor Grumpy and a bit of a tour I took advantage to whip out my compañeros for a photo.
What is it about some people that they'll talk about you while standing right beside you?
"What's he doing?"
"Oh, that's sooooo cute"
"Isn't he a bit old for toys?"
"That's a bit weird".

*Taking the side road to the ruins, riding over dry fords, able to reach out and touch giant cacti (not a good idea!). These were the roads I wanted to explore here, but alas not to be.*​






Back on the road I still wasn't in great form! 
But that's the beauty of the road. I left them behind and cycled on. They got smaller and smaller, the voices became comically highly pitched until they disappeared in the ether.

The joys of travelling on a bike!

Seeing an Oxxo I pulled in for a coffee and a bit of shade. No peace! A security guard wanted to chat. Lots of questions, but in a more conversational format. I was half way through talking to him when the penny dropped at how easily I was chatting in Spanish! That'll lift a mood!

At the next town I pulled in for some food. People talk about Mexican cuisine as if its generic but it is highly regional. Today's brunch was a large tortilla, about 12 inches across, covered in dark, hot, chocolatey mole (think tomato sauce on a pizza base) with some shredded chicken, tomato, and cheese, folded over and heated through on both sides so the cheese is melted. Messy as hell to eat with fingers but delicious!
There was a great little assembly line in operation.
One woman was making the tortillas, breaking off a handful of dough, placing it between two metal plates that looked like a seat of a metal chair. Pulling the "back of the chair" down with a lever compressed and flattened the dough. Up, rotate and repeat. A raw, perfectly round tortilla. This was placed on a large, concave disc sitting over a charcoal fire. 
Now Lady #2 takes over and cooks the tortilla then begins to add ingredients. Once added, it is folded over on itself, calzone style and moved to the edge of the big disk where it was less hot. She caught me watching her and responded with shyness so I dropped my plan to talk to her. 
Lady #3 takes the ready food either on a plate (for eating in) or in greaseproof paper for eating out. 
Here, in Oaxaca, that's an empanada. In CDMX an empanada is completely different, made with pastry. I'm telling ya, the food here is complicated! But delicious!

*This is the type of thingy used to make the empanadas down here. A round plate, heated from beneath with a wood fire. Pay attention to how securely it is sited!*​*



*

Back on the road I was swiftly out in the country again and enjoying myself. I passed a zoo, quite famous for its wild big cats that I thought would be an interesting diversion. Closed. 

The wind had picked up too and was making the cycling tougher - but deliciously cooler!

My route turned right but I decided to head on and into Mitla to see some more ruins. (It appears I have some unfinished business with ruins!) To get into Mitla there was a decontamination process - cars were sprayed inside and out, occupants out for the same. Me? I got smiles and waved through.
This is a different part of the country with different attitudes. It may seem futile or pointless to some of us, but I think it's important to respect the locals. I can think of at least one person on my tour the other day who would have had a big problem with that process.

Mitla is a charming little place - clean, neat, quite modern, in fact. Lovely colours. I was charmed! 






There is a wonderful attraction close by, Hierve el Agua, which I thought was a waterfall. It's actually a rock formation that looks like a waterfall. But access is blocked by locals. In the same area are (more) ruins but also some caves that were inhabited. I'd like to see those. 

While soaking up the atmosphere in the little plaza after a cold drink I had the idea of perhaps getting some local info and trying to at least see the caves in the morning. 

Having a look on Booking.com I found a place for the cheapest I've paid yet! Off to look at ruins and then check in! 

*Getting "Artsy" in Mitla*​





Ha Dumbass!
The ruins are closed! Or at least the main ones. Walking along a street full of wonderful artesenal shops (hence the walking - more time to see!) I literally walked into some ruins! The old Mexican contrast in full force.
The "main" ruins are right next to the church (and probably under it too) but are closed. Confusing because I saw people wandering around inside when I was at the church.
A wander around and my confusion was answered. Someone was taking bribes and a whole crew of people were involved. A bus had arrived and any likely tourists were approached. I had numerous offers to "mind" my bike. I declined. 

*The Mexican Contrast! Ancient, preHispanic ruins on the street and right beside a shop! I love it!*​





Check in is at 6 so I found a lovely little restaurant to have some café de ola and write this up. 

I met a Canadian chap who is down here to buy some land, set up a mezcal operation and an AirBnB. Mezcal, similar to but different from Tequila is big business here. There are many, many Fabricas de Mezcal around here. 
Whereas Tequila can only be made from a specific type of agave plant (and from certain regions), Mezcal is more promiscuous in its ingredients - up to 30 different types of agave can be used. 
I can't imagine trying to get that business off the ground. How does a foreigner compete against locals with a local product? I'm pretty sure the tours are a main source of revenue and again, I can't see a foreigner breaking that market too easily or cheaply. 

Wandering around town later (the less said about my cheap accommodation the better!) I noticed that the main route to the ruins is very pretty and gentrified. Take a wander off that in either direction and it's a little coarser, a little more real. I prefer that!

*A solar tree in Mitla. You can plug in your phone!*​





What is obvious, though, is that the town has been hit badly by a lack of tourists. There are rows and rows of artesenal shops and an entire square beside the ruins - all pretty much empty. Restaurants closed and the ones open doing no trade. 
Another thing, though, is that people are very industrious. There were many women in shops with no customers weaving or stitching new stock and I saw and heard many of the big traditional looms working. A sign of optimism, perhaps.
One guy looked satisfied - he had a store that sold the spools of material used in all the weaving! That's the business I'd get involved in!


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (31 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, May 28, 2021, San Pablo Villa de Mitla to San Pedro Totolapan 55km, Total KM 925
Min meters 935, Max Meters 1930
Total Climb 480 Total Descent 1212
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 46
Ave Temp 33

I'm going to have to stop choosing things I want to see first thing in the morning and start with something I'm not bothered about. Less disappointment that way.

I overslept by my standards simply because my tiny room with no ventilation was actually quite cool. 
I was up and out in record time, foregoing making coffee to get on the road.
I was off to see some caves! 

I cut through town, across the libre and over the cuota (exits were blocked as I had read) and headed to the village of Xaaga, skirting its edge. 
I was very conscious of my reception but people just seemed indifferent.

*Ah! Backroads! Adventure everywhere! Perhaps it was all in my head but every sullen stare seemed more impactful than before*​





Past town onto rough roads I was heading out into the country. People working in the fields had a look, some returned my greeting. Had the roads and the views not been so fantastic I may well have been turned around by the sullen stares of the others.

I didn't have far to go but I was taking my time. Blue skies, bright sun, rough "roads" and wonderful views. This was more like it!
Coming to where my GPS said the caves were I saw a big development under construction and not much else. Then two dogs went for me. I stopped to calm them down and when I was ready to go again my front tyre was flat as a pancake!
Oh well, I haven't had a puncture in a while.

I got everything off, flipped over the bike and set to work. A thorn had given a good rip to the tube. Replacement tube required.
The guys working on the building pretty much ignored me as I worked away. 
Finished, I asked one of them for directions to the caves but they were long and complicated and he made it clear I'd not be able to get there on the bike.

*Pretty interesting views!*​





At that stage, I said to hell with it, back to the road. So I did!
I tried to take a shortcut on the cuota but the barricade includes a barbed wire fence that even a bike can't get around. I retraced my route from yesterday and this time took my turnoff in the direction of Tehuantepec. As soon as I did I noticed that my confusion from yesterday was well and truly put to bed - there wasn't a trace of a shoulder! 

With less cloud cover than yesterday it was hotter, but again a wind came to my rescue - even if it was against me.

The next order of business was some breakfast!
That happened about 15km down the road with a veggie quesadilla, no coffee though. Interestingly, that town, located along the main road had only one street open to the town centre - the rest were chained off. 





After that I had a slow, hot lengthy climb past lots and lots of Mezcal Frabricas and shops. I mean lots. From little places thrown together at the side of the road to huge complexes. All for tourists. And there aren't many of those.

It got me thinking about how do these survive even without Covid? Are there that many people visting these places? And how do they choose one place over the other? Or do people visit multiple ones? Do they drive? At that point I decided it was better to drop the subject!






I had one uncomfortable experience with a minibus that I saw coming up behind. Ahead was a blind bend and when a car came around I pulled to the side and stopped thinking that was the safest. Mr. Minibus driver was not happy at having to slow down, but then stopped beside me (no need) and blasted his horn several times. I couldn't see him (presumably a him) through the tinted windows and then they sped off. I've picked up a few bad words and used them all - several times! 






Near the top of the climb I pulled off to one side to rest. There were a couple of rough, sandy, rocky roads heading into the countryside but a teeming mass of movement on the ground caught my eye. Big, fat ants, fire ants presumably, were frantically busy coming and going from three holes in the ground. What they were doing I have no idea, but they were very gung ho about it! So interesting was this little spectacle that I failed to notice them climb onto my eccos (shoes). With lots of ventilation and not wearing socks I soon felt them on me! 
Well, Michael Flatley eat your heart out! One bugger bit me and it burned for a long time after. I tried to be respectful and keep in mind that I wandered into their territory, but plans rarely survive past the first bite!
I got back on the road!

Up here, only about 300 meters higher it was very green in comparison to just down the road. Lush wouldn't be a bad description.
Once past the high point the road sloped down and the wind picked up - big time! A hot, hot wind it was, like standing in front of an oven.

*Green! Very, very green!*​





It took a little while but then Mother Nature hit the "Spectacular" button! 
Blue mountains in the distance, each one a different shade, pure white clouds sitting on top of them in, of course, a bright blue sky. Vague green hills and mountains closer to me, the closer the more detail. And all this from nowhere! One moment I'm travelling down a straight road, the next it curves away and gives me this:






There was a bit of space beside the road so I pulled up and savoured the view. I knew Oaxaca had mountains but this is getting ridiculous!

Unfortunately, from a picture perspective, there were few stopping places and fewer guardrails where I could stop safely, however, from a "thrill" perspective the lack of guardrails combined with some pretty steep drops was a boon!

*Sometimes only a "road shot" will do...*​





I didn't fly down, I took it steady not wanting to miss anything. Traffic tended to travel in packs (following the slowest) so at times, I had this wonderful road to myself. I passed cliffs of strange rock that made me think of the "waterfall" I'd missed and others in shades varying from green to red to pink.

Despite not pedalling much it was still pretty hard work - but the reward was all around me! 





Arriving into the small town of San Pedro Totolapan I pulled in for some food and coffee. My promised coffee never arrived, my waitress was a surly as they come, but my Mexican Eggs were fresh and tasty.

This was a bit of a decision point. Ahead another climb and the next hotel 30 odd km down the road. 
Here there was mention of rooms to rent and a cyclist had stayed in the Municipal grounds a few years ago. My decision was firmed up when I saw some dark clouds rolling in. I set off to see if I could find the rooms. They were across the road! I called the number and spoke with a lady. She'd be down soon was what I think she said. I waited about 30 minutes heard some thunder and waited some more.
Eventually a little old lady showed up, showed me the room (surprisingly better than expected) avoided telling me the price several times then hit me with 450 pesos or $22 as she kept saying. 
No way! The room was nice but internal with no ventilation and there was no running water. No way! I was feeling exploited with her talking about the big rainstorm coming.

So, I hopped on the bike and set off, nervously, to find the Municipal buildings which I did easily enough.
I spoke to a man, he told me to speak to a lady, she said she'd talk to someone and here I am, perched up in the "kiosko", what I'd refer to as a bandstand. I have a dry, secure place to sleep and they have a copy of my passport!

But more than that, much more than that, I've done another thing that I have read so much about. Another step closer to being a proper cycle tourist!

Let's just take a moment to appreciate that. A global Pandemic, a stranger in a small town with basic language skills made welcome. 

My night consisted of checking the bike - there's a strange knocking sound, setting up the tent then watching people come and go. Mother Nature provided some cooling rain, regular thunder and fabulous lightning displays on and off for hours.
From where I'm typing this, I'm facing the Palacio Municipal, behind and to the right are tree covered hills and two defiant palm trees. Every now and then the dark hills and my friendly Palm trees are lit up. 
We're not in Kansas anymore!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (31 May 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, May 28, 2021, San Pedro Totolapan to El Camaron Yautepec 52km, Total KM 977
Min meters 671, Max Meters 1258
Total Climb 796 Total Descent 1005
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 47
Ave Temp 37


If you're noticing a lot of Saint names in the towns you wouldn't be wrong! My understanding is that the Spanish when they arrived took to renaming the towns by adding a Saint's name to the actual name of the town. In reality, towns are known by either their Saint appellation or the "old" name.

*Imagine sweeping around a bend and hitting this! *​





If the Touring Gods ever sat down and decreed the Ultimate Touring Road this section of Mex 190 from Mitla to Tehuantepec has to be on the shortlist! It is stunning!!
Bloody hard work at times, but more than worth the burn. Superlatives get used far too easily these days, but this road deserves them all! I may well slow down (even more!). 
(Early on today I had an idea of a Camino de Mezcal along this road. A spectacular walk broken with visits to Mezcal distilleries. As the day developed the idea just became stronger and stronger. A bike is a great way to see it all, but a walk? Even better!)

*My mind drifted back to the old days and the first people to settle in these areas would have followed that valley, that river. *​





I had company last night - several men sleeping under the entrance to the Municipal buildings. The next morning they all seemed to be working there or going off to work on municipal business.

Thunder rolled, lightning flashed and rain fell as I slowly drifted off to sleep.
I awoke before dawn and slowly adjusted to where I was.
Oh! The sounds of a Mexican morning!
There are cocks crowing with a range of abilities. One, I can imagine him strong and proud announcing the new day, another, has seen a lot of days and seems weaker and hoarser and probably less enthusiastic. Youngster, voice not broken yet needs practise but, in fairness, he keeps plugging away! And, of course, there are lots more!
Then there's a variety of birds, exotic to me, chattering, singing and adding layers of complex harmonies. 
Of course, there are dogs yapping and barking in the distance. 
Faintly in the far distance I can hear some traffic but as the first rays of light appear it is all Mother Nature. 
Blessed! I'm feckin' blessed!

*When your day starts off like this, with exotic birds chirping and chattering excitedly because a whole new day is begining and all the old reliables, cocks and dogs, are doing their thing you just know it's going to be a good day!*​





I got up slowly and quietly. Rainwater had spread from the edges of my high vantage point and under the tent.
I don't get it. This is an "expedition" standard tent but the water has soaked through the footprint and floor meaning my sleeping pad (still holding up) is soaking! My cheapy Coleman never had that problem!

First order of business was to sit down in my chair and watch the sun take over the world. Nothing spectacular, but incredibly pretty. 

Then coffee!

Then I slowly set about getting organised. I had a tent to dry out and a sleeping pad. Given that I don't know where, or under what conditions, I'll be sleeping tonight I want my tent as dry as possible.

It's interesting watching the activity around me. Nobody pays much attention to me but if I catch an eye and offer a cheerful "Buenos Días" I'll get a smile and a response.

Eventually I am ready to leave and offer my gratitude to the first man I spoke to yesterday evening. (He slept here too). No fancy response just a simple message to have a good journey.

First order of business is breakfast so when I rejoin the main road I take a left to the first restaurant. That's when I notice a squishy front wheel!

I order breakfast, pump it up and I'll see what it's like afterwards. 

Afterwards it was still holding so I set off fuelled with coffee, eggs, chorizo, beans and washed down with cucumber water. Delicious!

*Climbing away from the river*​





First off, a gentle descent, a bit of flat and then the climbing began. Here was my problem - it was already late (after 10 am) so hot. Ideally an early start would have me climbing in the cool. And this heat is different. It's a damp heat. It feels hotter than Gizmo reads. However, I get to see the countryside in glorious sunshine!

A brown muddy river was thrashing along beside me until I started to climb and it benefited from the sun. Swirling brown after the rains last night in the distance it looked silver as the sun danced upon it.
This country is incredibly green so I have green hills all around me, dark green veering to blue mountains in the distance and above all a bright blue sky to top it all off. Glorious!

Slow and steady was the name of the game. I am in absolutely no rush. Like yesterday there were few places to stop and not many guardrails. When I came to the twisty bits (and there were several) I was presented with a whole new vista on every turn. Honestly, it was like Mother Nature was giving me a gift on every turn. 

Exceptional circumstances require an exceptional response so I hopped off and walked - not out of necessity - just so I could see everything. I was in my element!
I met a mechanic working on a truck. Two days he'd been working on it. A U.S. truck he was bemoaning how feckin' complicated it was. He declined my offer of water and wished me well on my journey. It's strange, I find it easier to approach people here, in a foreign language than at home! I know nothing about engines in English, never mind Spanish!

*This tree really struck me (there were others living life on the edge too. It inspired the thought that when we have completely fecked up this planet and either destroyed ourselves or left that Mother Nature will find a way to survive.*​





A little later a pickup pulled up beside me and a tantalising cold beer was thrust at me. I declined, imagining the effect one beer would have on my head. 

Slowly I gained on the top, stopping regularly to soak my bandana in water and to look back on the road. One rest place was denied to me by the presence of a dead horse. The stench almost had me retching.

One thing here that can be quite extreme is the camber of the roads. It's not unusual for me to go to hop on the bike after a stop but the bike, right beside me, is too high to get my leg over!

As the road gently turned and rolled downwards I got a lovely, delicious, sensual blast of the wind! Ohhhhhh! No words!

A gentle descent, not enough guardrails and some dodgy surfacing mean it's slow progress, but time to see everything!

There is no constant to what I am seeing. Just as mountains in front of me become familiar and close I'll change direction and new ones will fall into frame. 
This side is more agriculturally active - agave mainly. Agave takes 6-7 years to grow to fruition so I get to see it in all sizes. The rich brown soil they are regularly planted in is a pleasing contrast to the rich green surrounding it. 

*Vivid green, cacti, rock.... And that's just one corner!*​





I pull up at a roadside restaurant offering shade. A lovely sandwich, a cold pineapple drink and a bit of relaxing. Behind me, a group of lads, 4 or 5 of them, late teens or early twenties sat at a table littered with empty bottles. 
In Germany they mark your beermat with every beer, in Mēxico they count the empty bottles!
They were loud, boisterous, typical country lads (as I know them) unwinding on a Saturday afternoon. It was the women though, that had me a bit on edge. As time passed, the woman proprietor and (presumably) two teenage daughters were watching the lads and smiling at the right time but were clearly not relaxed. The girls moved away busying themselves away from the boys. The eldest who had been friendly and relaxed when I arrived was clearly tense.
I didn't know why the lads were inspiring this tension, but given the fact that they and I were the only customers I thought it wise to move on.

*Similar theme but very, very different!*​





By now there was a headwind and on the flat it was like a fan in a hot oven blasting hot air all over me! Going up it tended to disappear until it teased me with a blast every now and then.






My big climbing was over, but there were a few more to complete. I arrived into the charming village of San Jose de Gracia and pulled in for some crisps/chips and a cold drink. The views were spectacular and on a whim I decided to stay in this little place. I cycled through the pleasant town, anticipating a lovely, exploratory walk. People were smiling and saluting me. Perfect!
The hotel, however, having passed the town was a bit divey and I was shocked but not disappointed to be told there was no room at the inn. I bought a bottle of cold water (twice the normal price!) for the next stage and set off again. By now, after spending way too long on my snack and drink it was about 5pm so I could feel a little tingle of pressure to get my ass in gear.
Mother Nature did not cooperate!
Even more spectacular views! There was a longish climb but I really didn't care. This is what I wanted! Cycling along and being in awe of where I was. This is not the time nor the road for rushing!

I haven't been singing (not like me) but today I was shouting in pure wonderment! I had a grin plastered to my face for that last 20 odd km. I thought the climb and the heat were going to kill me but I figured the Touring Gods wouldn't do that to me here! I did get a bit lightheaded and pulled up in to the rain gulley for a while. 
Even the dark clouds rolling in couldn't get me to hurry up. That would be a sin on this road!
When, with about 5km to go the thunder started I roared "Not Today" and pulled in for another photo. 
Thank feck the last few km were flat and the hotel was on this side of town because no sooner had I my key then the heavens opened.

*If not impressed by the beauty you can be thrilled by the potential for rocks falling!*​






What was so special about today?
The views were spectacular! I know I whinge and moan about mountains but I keep going back for more! There's something mysterious about the mountains here, the way they appear in layers. They just draw me in. I'd pass a scene and think to myself that it couldn't be surpassed. Until the next bend. Honestly, the whole day, just better and better. 
There was a bit of everything on the road. I had climbs, but not all day climbs. I had descents but not fast drop ones. Traffic was respectful with two notable exceptions - an impatient collectivo pulled out to overtake a bus and nearly took me head on and later a pickup nearly ran me off the road and down a 30 meter drop as a passenger tried to video me. (To clarify, I don't think the point of the video was to see me crash, just someone a bit overexcited).
I crossed a river a couple of times, passed walls of different coloured rock, had all kinds of vegetation beside me, lizards for company. Above me large birds soared in the hot air. A vulture (I think began to circle around me then was joined by one, then two then three more!
At times, because traffic tended to come in packs, there was almost total silence - except for the sounds of birds and animals. It's hard to describe how that feels but it appeals to the explorer within me. Just me and this fantastic landscape. Stop a moment, straddle the bike and soak it all up. 
And there were thrills galore! I saw three rockfalls - live! The lack of barriers and sheer drops will get the heart pumping! In one case I know why there was no barrier - a rockfall took it out! The wind, at times was blowing me around. 
When I am old(er), (more) decrepit and scared of my own shadow I'm going to look back on this day, look at the photos and remind myself of what a great feckin' adventure I had! 

Today was epic. If only I could meet that feckin' Californian cyclist again!


*Not today, Thunder, not today!*​





Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jun 2021)

More Photos!

*What can I possibly say?*​






*Thrilling!*​














*All the colours on this corner got me.*​






*That's my road way down there!*​






*If you don't like mountains you're in the wrong thread!*​




















*Everything is so green!*





*And blue!*​





Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, May 30, 2021, El Camaron Yautepec to Jalapa 89 km, Total KM 1066
Min meters 164, Max Meters 1294
Total Climb 1314 Total Descent 1702
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43
Ave Temp 32


If you were looking at a section of Mex 190 today you may well have seen a loaded bike leaning against a low wall. Despite the heavy, heavy rain and the wind waving the flag and pole attached to the bike it stood out in the gloom with yellow and fluro green panniers and a bright yellow rain cover over the barbag.
Beside the bike, sitting on the wall was the rider of this bike, head bowed from the rain, his oversized green raincoat covered with a bright orange vest.
Those that pay close attention might have seen his head bobbing up and down and given the pretty bleak scene it wouldn't be wildly inaccurate to assume that the poor fella was sobbing.
He wasn't. He was laughing his head off because his travel had come to an end for the most ridiculous of reasons!






The woman who checked me in last night will not win any awards for hospitality. Tim Tower stayed in this hotel and I do wonder if he has inspired a following and the poor woman is sick of people on bikes. I even got his room! Tim must be a small man because it is tiny. I mean fall over yourself tiny! No hot water, nor toilet seat either! But it did have airco!
It may have been the airco but I had a terrible night's sleep. Up late, about 7:30, made coffee, had a couple of text chats and was generally slow to get going.
When I did move I stopped at the first open restaurant for breakfast. I think it may be the chilis but I can't eat in the morning. Put some eggs in front of me, though, I spoon on the salsa and start the day with a little burn!

I hadn't gone far until I pulled into a filling station to top up my tyres. Front is a little softer, but nothing major.

*Hot and high!*​





Then into some serious climbing. Because of my day of rest approach it was already hot. So hot, in fact that a heat haze was disguising the views. 
I think I had about 600 meters to gain. Slow, steady and regular stops. As usual there was precious little shade.
At the top a little picnic area and a particularly bright and cheerful shrine. I pulled into some welcome shade.

*Apart from memorials for people who died on the road there are ocassionaly larger buildings of some kind of religious purpose. This one was particularly bright and cheerful with a few picnic tables and even toilets. *​





The sky was different today, cloudy, and as I set off again downhill I saw some dark clouds approaching. I knew at the bottom of this hill there was at least one comedor and a possibility to camp again at a school. I decided to race the clouds!
To give you an idea of what it's like here, on the descent I was approaching a cow grazing on the steep slope below my side of the road. The big, loud, black smoke belching, screeching truck in front of me didn't faze her - I did! She took one look at me, panicked, jumped up on the road in front of me and bounded across the other side - never once looking left or right! For a moment it looked like we'd collide but thankfully she was rather nimble on her hoofs.
(Later I met a calmer cow and separately, 4 goats happily wandering down the road!)

*Before the rain*​





Sunday seems to be the day for burning scrub. I passed several fires set specifically to burn off the scrub at the side of the road. Great fun on a descent - I can't see where I'm going! 
Half way down big raindrops started to pelt me. The problem with these roads is that there are few (safe) places to stop so I carried on until I came to a bus stop and pulled in to don my rain jacket.
I did have the thought that it would have been better to have the rain on the ascent - it would have been cooler! 
I set off again and spotted a Comedor so pulled in. Ooooh! A bad vibe. A man, shirtless, was pacing around and barely acknowledged me, more interested in spitting on the mud floor. A glance around showed there was no fire so any food was going to be a while. A woman appeared and I bought time by asking for a cold drink. Two dogs had been yapping since I pulled up and one was petrified of me despite his barking. I spent quite a bit of time coaxing and cajoling him until he would approach me, while shirtless made a song and dance about making a fire. The woman was watching me intently.
I paid for my drink, slipping her some extra money. Something was not right there.

*Even in the gloom there are lots of colours*​





Rolling downhill I came to the village and met another woman who will win no hospitality awards, but her quesadillas were delicious. By the time I was finished, so was the rain so I had a nose around. Schools are closed on Sundays (irrespective of Covid) and no-one I asked was volunteering information. No camping for me today.

Back on the road again. It would have been a very short day, anyways. Five minutes later the rain started again! While the temperature dropped I was never cold. In fact, I often entered pockets of warm air.
I had about 10km of relatively flat and then another climb. The start of that coincided with a proper storm - heavy, heavy rain, lightning and gusting winds.
At one stage there was a flash of lightning above me and almost instantaneously a huge bang of thunder that had me wobbling all over the place. Fan-Bloody-Tastic!
The rain I could handle, the lightning was just great entertainment, but the wind? That was dangerous! I was being blown hither and tither. Sharp bends, unguarded slopes? The safest thing was off and walk.

*Not many shots because of rain but this distinctive peak caught my eye*​





I normally wear sandals on the bike. For big climbs I have donned other shoes if I think I'll be pushing but after that big canyon climb I've been back in my sandals.
Mexican shoe sizes (now that I understand them) are fantastically simple. Measure your foot in centimetres - that's your size. Unfortunately, I didn't know that and converted from European to US to Mexican size when I bought them and they're a bit big for me. Since I only wear them on the bike - no problem.
Until it rains.
And I'm walking.
And pushing a loaded bike.
Then my feet slide around in them! Uncomfortably so. Dangerously so. (They're more than a bit big!)
What could I do except park up the bike, sit beside it and laugh! The intrepid traveller who wants to go to Ushuaia stopped in his tracks because he can't buy sandals in the right size! (No, I'm not going barefoot on these roads!)

I did remember my earlier thought of how nice rain would have been on the climb. Be careful what you wish for!

*Lots of breaks. This resting point was particularly interesting*​





When the wind eased off I climbed on and set off again. The world is so green around here and in this rain I can understand why.
Another descent had me rolling in to another little village, a cold drink, a delicious chicken sandwich and even a rainbow!

*And for contrast, here is the landscape in the sun. Now I know why it is so green!*​





I was nearly done now. Magdalena Tequisistlán had a hotel and it was an hour or two away. Another climb, another descent. I even put away my rainjacket. Down here the country was brown and scrubby, an interesting contrast to higher up.
Mother Nature wasn't co-operating though and I was watching more thunderclouds rolling in. I like a good race! Then the thunder started! More fun!
I crossed a long bridge, not stopping, thinking it'll be nicer tomorrow in the sun and slowed down to take my turn to the town and the hotel.
Police checkpoint. The town is Covid closed! No access!
The Policeman was less than helpful telling me I could sleep in the bus stop. Open on both sides, a big drop behind and on a main road? No thanks. Coming up on 7pm there were few options. I had passed nowhere suitable for a wild camp. All I could do was go on. Then the rain started. Again!
Time for another laugh!
I knew there was a town with hotels 20km down the road. It was flat, but I was heading into a warm wind. If the heavy rain stopped soon I'd make it in daylight. The Touring Gods agreed and when the rain lightened I switched on all lights and set off.

I felt cheated. My plan to take it easy and enjoy this special and beautiful road was in tatters. But I had a goal so I concentrated on that. I was making good time until I met a convoy of about 100 trucks coming against me - under armed guard. Once someone came up behind me there was no choice put to pull over - they couldn't pass me with the convoy.
That pause kind of killed me, but I set off again, if slower.
Finally, the town loomed up on Gizmo and I was feeling good. Then I met the floods!
Streets flooded, topes surrounded with muddy brown water. Rivers running down the streets! Will this day ever end???

*Down low the Palm Trees are more common*​





It did. I found a hotel - room on the second floor!! I laughed again. The poor girl checking me in must think I'm mad as a hatter!

A hot, hot shower and I was revived!


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (3 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, May 31, 2021, Jalapa to Tehuantepec 42 km, Total KM 1108
Min meters 72, Max Meters 277
Total Climb 381 Total Descent 441
Min Temp 29 Max Temp 49
Ave Temp 42

Oh Dear Lord! I am in another world!! A hot one!!!!






I woke up as I fell asleep - spreadeagled on the bed under the large rotating fan!

After my shower last night, I toddled downstairs and next door for a bite and a beer. Delicious cold beer! I went back upstairs, had a cold shower and still damp, lay down to sleep. So tired was I that I even set my alarm clock. All that did was give me the delicious sensation of hitting snooze repeatedly for an hour!

I was tired. Very tired. And sore. My legs ached far more than I would have expected. Slowly, I got up and got dressed.

*Even the rivers are dry!*​





Outside, on a quest for breakfast I was struck full force with the heat. Bam! I got lightheaded and had to sit down. Sitting there, seeing two of everything, plonked down on the side of the road in pouring rain didn't seem all that bad!! When my senses cleared I became aware of the most amazing cacophony of exotic bird sounds - amazing! I also reminded myself that this is the lowest altitude I have been at in well over a year.

*This this look hot to you? Try cycling in it!*​





Breakfast was tacos and a liter of water/melon/cucumber - delicious! I gave serious thought to staying an extra day, but in reality, this is a small village, wifi in the hotel doesn't stretch to my room and I knew I'd be bored. I did consider doubling back to that lovely bridge I saw yesterday. I think laziness ruled it out. 

Back to the hotel and bring everything downstairs. The girl who checked me out was no more than 10 (and she was in charge of the shop next door!) and she could teach a few people a thing or two!
Here, it's normal to get a tv remote (sometimes 2) with your roomkey. They are expected to be returned the next morning. Having declined mine last night (I had enough to be carrying!) this caused a bit of confusion this morning, but she dealt with it excellently.

Setting off, I had an "uh oh" moment so turned right instead of left to hit an Oxxo. Coffee. I needed coffee.

Coffeed up I set off again through town. Here's the thing with me and the bike - sometimes I struggle to throw the leg over, dread those first pedal strokes as my muscles yell abuse at me, but then the magic happens and a smile breaks out!

So, with a smile on my face I set off on a gentle climb out of town. 30km to go, Gizmo reading 36C and climbing. The Touring Gods even laid on a headwind for me!

*Hot, but pretty!*​





Traffic was quiet and respectful, the views interesting and varied if a little less epic than the last few days.
Then, over to my left I caught a glimpse of green/blue water. There's a lake down there (with no camping anywhere) and it looked so beautiful.
I turned off! I know I said no figaries for a while but I do like my water!

*Can you blame me?*​





I flew down a long hill catching glimpses now and again until I caught it in its full glory! I wasn't wrong. Rather than turn around and rejoin the road, my original plan, I kept going, ignoring a very old and faded sign that declared Federal Land Do Not Pass and past a flock of vultures feasting on a very young calf.
The views were amazing! Except for a few motorbikes I had the road to myself. Well, I had to share with lizards and the most amazing array of butterflies of all sizes and colours! Only the noise of the gentle wind off the water! Bliss!





I had the idea that I might be able to circle back to where I started from so continued further until I came to a dam. Where I needed to cross was chained off, continuing on meant a very long detour around the rest of the lake and given the Federal tag I decided to turn around and head back. 
You might think that would be boring, but not for me! Put me beside water and I'm happy!





Then I saw something that made it all even more worthwhile - a snake! There it was snaking across the road! WooHoo! My first, real, live snake in the wild! It took one look at me and slithered back from whence it came!
I had passed a little comedor on the way in so pulled in for some cold water and a pleasant chat with the lady and her daughter - the two sons were shy. At first I was charmed by hundred of baby chicks in a pen, but then the reality dawned on me that these ones wouldn't be living long.

Then up onto the main road and I continued on my way. Hot. Very hot.
It is very hard to describe the heat. First of all there is the sun and after it's up for a while it burns! I can feel it on my skin and especially on my back when positioned that way.
But that's the superficial heat. The real issue down here is the damp heat. It envelops me, heating me in a different way to the sun. It's a bit like a sauna; a heat that is both inside and outside of me.
The wind can help, but at times, it can just be a blast of hot, damp air. Let's just say that this pasty skinned, fair haired Irishman is suffering a bit!





You're never too old to learn something new, but sometimes you may be so old as to have forgotten some things. I'm not sure which is appropriate, but I'll share this here anyway: Don't sit on a shiny, new metal guard rail that is under a hot sun!






I remember short, hot climbs, gentle, cooler descents. In truth, any other day it would be described as flat, it's just that every climb reduced the wind and every descent increased it A pretty unremarkable ride grabbing shade wherever I could. As a reference for heat, my insulated water bottle had hot water! Actually hot. Not tepid, not warm, actual hot water! And that's the insulated one!

I pulled into a comedor for some shade and a long, long, cold drink then set off again.

*I crossed the Cuota. Hot!*​





Tim Tower had recommended a hotel so I went for there. A little expensive but it had airco, hot water, toilet seat, excellent wifi and a huge balcony.

Despite a fabulous thunderstorm there wasn't a drop of rain and it stayed oppressively hot all night long.
Outside, that is - inside was deliciously cool!

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, June 01, 2021, Tehuantepec to Santo Domingo Zanatepec 111 km, Total KM 1219
Min meters 35, Max Meters 97
Total Climb 446 Total Descent 423
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 41
Ave Temp 35

It says a lot about the heat that I did not give any serious consideration to popping into, or detouring to, Salina Cruz and the ocean! There is one driving necessity - get out of this heat! 
I am both amused and shocked at myself - a trip to the Pacific is not to be sneezed at yet here I am heading away from it! 

I've made contact with quite a famous Warmshowers host and spoke to him this morning. He is still hosting and actually has another cyclist with him! My "plan" was to cover the distance in two days but maybe I could cover it in one?

*Leaving town - a dead straight road heading into the sun!*​





My first shock was stepping out of my air-conditioned room - it's a different world outside! A hot one!

I got through town and pulled in at the last Oxxo for coffee and a sandwich. 
Back on the road I noticed two things - a hefty headwind and a small shoulder. As it turned out, neither was much of an issue. Traffic was light and respectful and in the early morning the wind is cooling. 






This is a windy place! So windy, in fact, that I believe it has the largest windfarm in Latin America. Other cyclists have had terrible issues around here. Trucks are regularly blown off the road or onto their sides! I had a 25km dead straight run to Juchitán de Zaragoza to find out if I would too!
As it turned out, not so much. Yes, a headwind but as much as I dislike them, I can live with them. It wasn't the most inspiring ride, but fine. 
The shoulder had many, many cracks, some that would swallow a front wheel. In my more imaginative moments, I was a cycle touring Indiana Jones making a getaway, loaded down with artefacts and avoiding earthquakes opening up the ground in front of me! Mock all you want - 25km dead straight into a headwind what would you do to keep sane?

*Some of those cracks could do serious damage!*​





Two stops in Juchitán de Zaragoza for juice and I continued on in a slightly different direction. Now the wind was a sidewind but nothing serious and some pretty respectful traffic made for a reasonable ride and a shoulder even made an appearance, nice and wide. 

*One of my juice stops! I just love the way the oranges are dumped on the road. There's a truck behind full of wooden crates of oranges. I assume once it moves off another takes its place and the fruit are crated and loaded. *​





La Venta was my planned stop for the night, about 55km on the clock and the same again to get to Rodrigo, my Warmshowers host. Time for food, a rest and a think. 

After some food, drink and a rest in shade I decided to go for it! The chance to meet another touring cyclist and the fact that the wind Gods seemed to be in a generous mood sealed the deal!

*This is quite typical here. A few shops and mechanics on the side of the road place bollards and rope or tyre "speed bumps" to slow down traffic and encourage them to stop!*​





There were more sidewinds, but nothing too serious, a single, teasing km of a wonderful tailwind and then gradually the wind morphed and faded into a headwind. 
The heat was something else. Stop for a photo and I was overwhelmed with humidity. Get going again and I was blasted with a hot wind.

*What every cyclist wants to see - lots and lots of wind turbines, or as I like to call them windmills.*​





The countryside side was green, very green and a few mountains loomed up in front of me. How fickle I am!! I wanted to be back with the "cool" guys!

*Green, but hot and humid*​





A couple of little villages meant a couple of cold drink stops. I was finding it important to get out of the sun as regularly as possible. 
I'm also drinking a lot of water. I'll start the day on water but as it progresses I can't take much more. Then the electrolyte powder comes into play - although it seems to make me thirstier.

*This scene almost derailed me! You can't hear the music but it was loud, lively and happy! People swimming in the river, it looked like food and drink was being served. If I went down I may never have made it back to the road! *​





At one stage I passed a section of road where it had rained. An extra layer of heat seemed to radiate up from the wet surface as I travelled over it.

*Another cooling river*​





As always the last 10km were tough! I rolled into town and did as I was told - ask for directions - because everyone knows Rorro.
Ha! The first lady I asked knew him, but not his address. I plonked down on a bench and guzzled an ice cold drink & called.
Five minutes later he's there in his car and all I had to do was follow him back to a mango orchard! 

I had arrived! 

*Earlier in the day. *​








Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 02, 2021, Santo Domingo Zanatepec to San Pedro Tapanatepec 34 km, Total KM 1253
Min meters 51, Max Meters 178
Total Climb 318 Total Descent 228
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 43
Ave Temp 28

I didn't so much get my ass kicked today. I got it wrapped up and handed to me. All that was missing was a bow. 

*Early morning departure and the sun is desperate to make itself felt!*​





Rodrigo, or Rorro, my Warmshowers host last night has been hosting cyclists (and others) for years. He's not a cyclist and won't travel until his kids are grown. He just likes to do it! 

Max, the other cyclist, from Argentina is heading south towards home. When he gets there he wants to do a lap of Africa and that will finish his world tour, started 8 years ago. 
Just once I'd like to meet a cycle tourist who's just out for a week!

I'm always interested in what happens after a long tour. I know myself that there can be a period of "adjustment" back to normal life. Some of the blogs or books I have read the author just "disappears". Some become "professional", using books, videos (YouTube), speaking engagements to make a living or some go "Corporate". But what of the normal Joe or Joanne?
When I asked Max (who left pretty much after high school) what he will do when he gets home he just said "do another lap!"

*This scene captivated me. A mountain, mist, low cloud and a powerful sun.*​





When I arrived it took me a while to get my head straight, I was very tired, hot and full of fluids. A bucket shower helped a lot!
Then dinner was served by Rorro's wife and I tried to keep up with all the Spanish. 

It was an incredibly warm night, a threatened rain shower never appeared and sleep was difficult. Max ended up sleeping outside his tent. In a mango orchard, falling mangoes were an interesting diversion and when they fell on a galvanised roof even more so!

I heard Max up and about before the sun and slowly joined him. I was feeling the after effects of yesterday's long ride and the hot night. I was sore and tired. Physically tired and sleepy tired. He was setting off as I was getting organised. I may well be seeing him later.

*Passing over a little village*​





Here's another don't be a dumbass tip; If changing shorts remember that the new ones may not be as long as the old ones and the unthinking cyclist could end up with some bright pink bands across their legs! 

Leaving about seven I couldn't resist stopping for a roadside juice and coffee, then it was a flattish 20 odd km to the next town. After that the mountains start! Yes!!






That was my first proper Warmshowers experience as a guest. Rodrigo uses his orchard with a covered space for a kitchen and another as a bathroom and place for a bucket shower. He says he can take up to five guests at a time. His generosity is immense. 

Setting off it was so warm that a heat haze made it almost impossible to pick out the mountains. Close to me the countryside was very green, alternating between cultivated and wild. 
I passed a Police checkpoint, no problem and also a very heavily guarded Police base. 

I got to Tapanatepec and pulled in for breakfast in the shade. A very pleasant lady made me eggs and chorizo and later a man and his young son were all chat. The father wanted to know what was the point of travelling on a bike. I told him the usual things I say to people who ask me that question; that by travelling on a bike I can get to know a place, to feel a place. That by moving slowly from place to place I can see the differences between them. Travelling by bike the destination is not the important thing - the journey is.
Then he asked me if I didn't have any problems with traffic and it was the perfect chance to explain my idea. I told him that the last couple of days the traffic had been very respectful of me, but back around Oaxaca not so much. In fairness, he wasn't dismissive and seemed to ponder on what I had said. 

*Agua de Papaya*​





I bought some more water and headed off. 

Right outside of town the road starts to rise. No shoulder, but hardly any traffic. Lots of greenery offered chances of shade. About 30km up there is a lake where I hope to camp.

*Leaving town*​





At 10 am the temperature is hitting 40 and it is destroying me. Every part of me is soaking. This is different heat, much more sapping than higher temperatures I've experienced before.
Sweating is supposed to be the body's way to cool down but it wasn't working on me. I started to feel like a trout en papillote, slowly steaming myself - except I was nothing as fragrant as a nice, light wine and delicate herbs! 
I wear a buff around my neck to act as a facemask when needed and as protection from sunburn around my neck. These days it is absolutely soaking from sweat.

*A vibrant, lively green*​





I stopped a few times in the shade but it was dawning on me that this was the biggest challenge so far. I was struggling physically, overheating and guzzling water.

In fairness, though, the landscape was wonderful, lush and green and now I was able to see further because the sun that was making me miserable was weaving magic all around me. 





At one stage going around a bend, slowly, the cooking became a bit much and I became lightheaded and a bit disoriented. I pulled in at the next shade and sat for a while. 
At this rate I had four, probably five hours or longer to get to the next town, never mind the destination. In the hottest part of the day.

Time for plan B.

I rested a bit more, rolled gently back down the hill and found a hotel. 

*I came down faster than I went up!*​





I showered, rested under a fan and made two posts here. That passed about 5 hours with slow internet!

A bite to eat and bed. 

The life of the big travelling touring cyclist!

*That beautiful morning scene again! (Phone, not camera)*​






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, June 03, 2021, San Pedro Tapanatepec to Rosendo Salazar 38 km, Total KM 1291
Min meters 59, Max Meters 871
Total Climb 970 Total Descent 325
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 37
Ave Temp 27

Dread is the right word. 
I was dreading today. 
Yesterday had been a bit of a shock to the system.
I was up just after 5 and rolling out the gate (necessitating getting someone up) at 6:05.
Still dark, I headed to Oxxo, got a coffee and 4 liters of cold water. Climbed on and headed off.

Leaving town I crossed over the Cuota, an alternative for me. Another day in the lowlands then a climb, most likely more gentle but with less shade and a whole lot less services. Not that this was much better - 28km to the next town. All uphill!

*It seemed like the whole world was waking up and I was desperately trying to sneak over the hills before they awoke and defeated me again*​





What I had seen yesterday in bright sunshine was now hidden in shadow and mist. Atmospheric, certainly, but I could do without gloomy imagery!

Like yesterday, traffic was incredibly light and in the still morning easy to hear far away.

Despite Gizmo reading only 26 it didn't take long for me to be soaking wet. Like yesterday, it had the opposite of a cooling effect. 

*Hard work but beautiful. Greenery ran right to the road, sometimes onto it. At other times it concealed terrifying drops to the valley below.*​





I always think language is very important, even when we're talking to ourselves. I was finding it hard not to regard yesterday as a failure and despite no sun yet, today was shaping up similarly - lots of sweat and slow progress so it was a surprise to reach my u-turn spot from yesterday after about 25 minutes and 300 meters of climbing. It took me about 90 minutes yesterday. 
By rights, that should have been a boost, but negative thoughts can be a bugger to shift. 

If you've ever fished for pike you'll know that their teeth are angled inwards. A fish caught in the mouth of a pike will tear all its flesh off trying to get out of that mouth. My "pike tooth" was next, a short, sharp descent followed by even more climbing. Once down that hill I was committed!

*My first sight of the sun! I was extremely conflicted - on the one hand the sun meant more heat, more difficulty, but on the other..... Just look at it! *​





At about 400 meters of altitude I started to notice that I was feeling better - the humidity was less. The sun was coming out to play but there were lots of trees for shade and without the humidity temperature seemed less important. It took a little over 90 minutes but now I was starting to feel more positive about the whole day. Such a contrast to yesterday! 

With a brighter mind I was able to appreciate my surroundings all the better!

*What's to dread? All those scattered boulders put me in mind of a giant toddler who threw all his pebbles away in a tantrum!*​





Definitely shades of jungle here! The wildness encroaches right up to the road when it's not far, far below it. There are still some pretty impressive (and scary!) drops to one side camouflaged by plants. 
With so little traffic I often have the road all to myself, just me, the bike and the birds calling out to each other. And these are exotic birds with all kinds of exotic voices and accents! 

*The advantage of slow and quiet travel - the natives don't mind me so much*​





Depending on the sun the land is in shade, bright sun or all the variations in between. I can look down on a valley with mist rising, mysterious and alive or look up at the sun blasting the rocky crown of a hill, casting it in gold while in the opposite direction a row of mountains looms out of a misty gloom.

*It's not only CDMX that has amazing tree and root displays!*​





It's hard work, but the reward is all around me. 

I crossed into a new State, Chiapas, to be greeted by a road crew working on the road. Big smiles all around.






My destination today is a bit vague. There's a lake further up the road that gets a lot of mention on IOverlander. I'm hoping to camp beside the lake. 

*I love this shot! All the variations of green and the clear contrast between sun and shade *​





Earlier than I had dreamed of, in better form than I expected and in better shape than I could have anticipated I rolled into a little village after 28 km. Looking forward to sit down and eat I was disappointed to find nowhere open! The curse of arriving too early! I bought a banana, some sweet bread and a cold drink and sat in a bit of shade then on again for the last section.

*A cliff is always good for a bit of drama!*​





Some ups, some downs and I arrived at the few shops that marked my turn off. Through a sleepy little village, down a few dirt roads and I met a couple of characters. Both a few sheets to the wind they were very friendly and confirmed I was heading the right way. One of them was winding himself up to ask me for money but his amigo was having none of it.
I met a guy digging up the road - a big smile told me all I needed to know but he assured me no problem to camp. There's a large covered area hosting a basic comedor and quite a few covered picnic tables - and a lake! 

Home!

So, what does a stranger do for an afternoon along the shores of a lake in a small town in the Mexican State of Chiapas?

He relaxes. 

I brewed a pot of coffee at one of the picnic tables and read my book. It was unusually blustery and threatening rain but still pleasant to sit out.
I watched a man fishing with a net in the shallows of the lake. After some mediocre hauls he landed almost a full net of silvery, yellowish fish and laughed when I applauded. Later we chatted and he showed me his catch.

I chatted to a few random dogs that came over, curious, friendly but cautious.

I also spoke to the German driver of a Campervan parked up well away from me. He was foraging mangoes that are ripe and falling from the trees.

Later, I had an early dinner in the little restaurant before it closed and then set up my tent under a large covered area by the lake. And I read some more as the wind died and the sun peeked out of the clouds. 

In the morning the sun should be rising over the lake but right now I'm looking at the hills on the far shore, a horse my only company and the sound of birds discussing their day's happenings. 





(Technically, taken the next day)

Later still, through the mesh of my tent - fireflies! I saw my first fireflies in the wild! 
Scared the bejaysus out of me at first as it seemed like people with torches were running across the lake but I calmed my imagination, put down the kindle and let nature entertain and impress me.

For a day that started out predawn full of dread it finished up pretty well!


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, June 04, 2021, Rosendo Salazar to El Aguacero 75 km, Total KM 1366

Min meters 513, Max Meters 790
Total Climb 941 Total Descent 874
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 42
Ave Temp 30


Some days just start off perfect!






Up with the sun, a pot of coffee while getting organised, a slow cycle through a friendly village (everyone and I mean everyone I met smiled and waved!) and back on the road before I know it!

Strangely, Gizmo doesn't have the main road on its maps! The little village and the lake, yes, the occasional sideroad I encounter, yes, but the actual road? Nope!

*My lake from back up on the road*​





Depending on where the sun was hitting there were either clear views or scenes hidden behind mist or cloud. Glorious!

The road was pretty straight and was the very definition of rolling! Up and down! Rinse and repeat! In the cool morning it felt like the kms were flying past.






At about 25km in I came to a little village. No comedores open but I did stop for some fresh agua de coco served in a plastic bag with a straw. Sitting on the side of the road in the shade sucking down deliciously cool coconut milk it's hard not to think I'm the luckiest b*****d in all of existence!

Setting off again the traffic was notably heavier and the road narrower. But still! A great morning to ride!
At a Police checkpoint a queue was building up. "An accident" said the Policeman to me but from what I could make out it looked like a shooting. No ambulance on the scene, the body loaded into the back of a Police pick-up and hauled off. A lot of blood on the side of the road, armed soldiers everywhere.

Off again and at the next town I pulled in for chicken and shade. Time to figure out my destination! I'm preferring camping so am going to aim for a campground near some waterfalls. If the traffic stays like this I may have to go the long way and take the Cuota for the shoulder. I'll figure that out when I get there!

*Somebody took the "P"!*​





There were some absolutely wonderful "road shots" today - views of the road in front of me. Typically a straight road, either ascending or descending and vaguely disappearing into vividly green hills and mountains in the distance. One especially stood out. The road dropped in front of me, levelled off, dropped again, level then regained the meters in two steps again. The road was a pale grey/white colour that contrasted perfectly with the greenery that grew right up to it and again, the vivid life of the hills it climbed into highlighted the haziness of the road so far away.
There isn't a photo of this as it was just too busy and too narrow to stop.
I enjoyed every single centimeter of it!

*In brighter sunshine, heat wasn't too much of an issue because I was moving at a steady pace and those mountains looming in front of me!*​





Setting off again after a good feed the heat was a factor - but nowhere near as much as lower down. At the top of a shortish climb I spied an Oxxo and pulled in reflexively. Coffee! Topped up with water I set off again. Heavy traffic was a distraction and limited photos. A wall of mountains were spread across my path and there was no way around them!

When I did come to the intersection with the Cuota I pulled in and observed for a few minutes. Most of the traffic was taking the Cuota so I'll stay on the Libre. If my camping option was open I had about 13km to go. Take the Cuota and it was more like 33.

It was a slow 13km, partly because it was pretty tough, the heat requiring many stops in shade, but mainly because it was so damn impressive! There were some fantastic views to be had. Stretching off and fading into the distance I got to see the road I had been traveling all day - straight through the valley. I've no idea why, but it impressed me greatly! I think I could have tackled Mt. Everest, on the bike, after that!

*I love this shot! From high up I can see the road I was travelling all morning cutting through the valley. I've no idea why it spoke to me but it really energised me*​





Instead, the land levelled out and I was flying. Until I saw a shop. A cold drink and some crisps from a young woman with the most radiant smile who was already chatting to an older lady. My Spanish must be coming along since I had the two of them in stitches. Smiley Señorita confirmed that my camping place was open and that I should be able to camp.

*Flying through the green valley on a quiet road*​





I flew off, stopped at the last village to top up water again and turned off to go 3km down a rough, then steep and rough road. I have no idea how I'm going to get out tomorrow!
It's a nature park with a famous waterfall and they allow camping!

I'm in and home! 

*Heading down towards my camping spot - a sheer drop and not a guardrail in sight. I could hear water rushing far, far below*​





There was a large group at the carpark and three tents already under a covered area. The lady who took my money had explained the group would be leaving shortly and another couple camping spoke no Spanish. There was something amusing in the way she said that to me - possibly the greatest murderer of languages in existence! I felt like a member of the exclusive Español Hablando club!
I had the whole area to choose from for my tent but decided to wait until things calmed down. A pot of coffee brewed under a small covered area turned out to be smart because as soon as it was ready the heavens opened.
Once the big group had packed up and left and the few remaining stragglers it was only the campers - myself and another couple. Two tents had disappeared and they were setting their own one up. Room for me under the shelter!
(The third one, in a corner, was never used. Perhaps for a security guard at night).
I approached them, asking (in Spanish) if they spoke Spanish or English. Español was the reply so I introduced myself and suggested using the space for my tent too. No problem.
And then they ignored me! Hushed conversations, backs turned. Nada!

I had a cold shower, did some laundry and went off to explore the waterfall. Only 200 meters the young girl had told me before she left for the evening with a radiant smile. I'm a sucker for a smiling lady and in this case, this old dog isn't learning any new tricks!
Straight down on steps slippery after the rain. Enclosed by plants and trees it was stiflingly hot and humid. It may be 200 meters as the crow flies but it was a bloody tough walk!
At the bottom light was fading and paths were little rivers after all the rain! I started back to my camp.
It wasn't the most pleasant walk ever and not for the first time this week a stranger would assume I had gone swimming fully clothed!

*After the rain and in the fading light Dumbass set off down into a canyon! Not my brightest move!*​






I set up at a quiet spot away from the couple and ate a supper of chorizo and crackers while reading my book. I saw the most enormous and ugly toad and then more fireflies darting amongst the trees.
Really, who needs company?







Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, June 05, 2021, El Aguacero to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, 59km Total KM 1425

Min meters 503, Max Meters 1064
Total Climb 521 Total Descent 586
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 37
Ave Temp 28


I may have mentioned this before….
Sometime in the past year someone posted on CGOAB of a trip planned two or three years in advance with an incredible amount of detail from daily stops to road surfaces. He'd even gone so far as to rate (and colour code) each day in terms of enjoyment.
I don't mean to be critical, it's just that such a plan is beyond my comprehension. I was thinking about him today and what he would make of my day!

*Setting off up a bloody big hill, ridiculously steep and full of gravel. The weather matched my mood *​





Sometime during the night the heavens opened again - wider than before. No wind, no howling, just a deluge of water that lasted a couple of hours. 
The noise of it on the corrugated roof woke me up. I lay there and thought just how I really don't have a comprehension of what "Rainy Season" actually means and how lucky I have been not to get caught in such deluges. 

Awake like that in the middle of the night it was hardly a surprise that I overslept. As I was crawling out, the other couple were packing up their car. At least she gave a morning greeting. 
I set about making coffee and they were off - not even a goodbye. Most unusual! 

Since it's still raining, albeit softly, I'm in no rush. The climb out of this place is not something to look forward to!

*Looking back on the climb out of the park and hoping that I'd meet no traffic!*​





I got organised in relative luxury, being able to do all my packing under a roof. Last to go on the bike is Mazi - nowhere to be found!
"To lose one tiger is unfortunate, to lose two sounds like carelessness" to misquote the great Oscar Wilde.
I hunted everywhere. Nowhere to be found. 
I was fuming! Stolen!!!!

I set off up the monster hill, narrow, steep, gravelly, sandy and wet. My "walk" last night had taken a lot out of me and this was hardly the best way to start my day's travelling. Hot, damp and slippery. 

I made it to the main road and promptly turned the wrong way - I needed something cold and possibly a breakfast. Sure enough, I found a little old lady to cook some eggs and chorizo and I had a long, cool drink. I still had water - I just needed something cold.

*I took very few photos today. I was grumpy and not in the mood to be inspired. In fairness, there was little to inspire, but that's not normally a problem*​





Back on the road again, dry but humid, cloudy and damp I had more straight roads and rolling hills - more up than down. Traffic was heavyish at times, but respectful in the main.
A provisional plan was to head to another IOverlander spot not too far away, but it was 12km uphill on rough roads to camp in a field and I didn't trust the weather for the road or the field.

*I don't know how to classify a day like today as good, bad or anything in between. In a grumpy mood it was a case of grinding out the distance. Another day I'd be singing. *​






This is when I started thinking about Mr. Planning. The countryside was "nice", the road ok, the challenge reasonable without being excessive. I was working hard, but comfortable. It's my head that makes the journey interesting and my head was humid, tired and annoyed at the loss of another tiger. 
Another day I'd be zipping along singing, looking out for all the details that make a day on the road interesting and unique. 

How can we plan for how we feel?

*A shoulder appeared as the road got busier*​





Approaching a largish town I took the ring road to avail of a petrol station to top up my tyres, then pulled in for a coffee. From now on it was uphill. 

Thankfully, after the town I had a decent shoulder and could relax on a longish ascent with busyish traffic. A regular rain gulley gave lots of places to stop safely and rest. 

*Finding it hard to be inspired!*​





Then I was over the top and all downhill to Tuxtla! You know it's going to be fun when a sign advises you to test your brakes!

The shoulder had some dodgy sections including an ever present groove made by truck tyres and a venomous black cloud was approaching. 

*Approaching Tuxtla looking in the positive direction*​





Tuxtla is big! Much bigger than I expected, busier too and pretty chaotic. I've gotten used to the topes being signed well in advance the last days but not here! My welcome to Tuxtla was almost being thrown by one particularly nasty little bugger. 

*Approaching Tuxtla looking in the pesimistic direction!*​





I had been hoping to camp in hotel grounds but that was a no. Rain was coming and it was beside the main road. I pulled out Booking.com and found a hotel on the outskirts. Getting through town was an adventure in itself! 






I finally arrived and set about washing all the clothing I've been wearing the past few days. Stinky and muddy! 

And that's when I found Mazi! In my little backpack! I'd planned to photo him at the waterfall the evening before and forgot to unpack him as the walk had beaten me up so much! 

How do you plan for mispacking a tiger? 








Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Jun 2021)

Sunday June 06, 2021

I was up early, went downstairs to get coffee and it was wet and incredibly miserable. 
I had a 60km ride ahead of me and had to climb 2000 meters.

No. Just no.

It was also Election Day in México and I haven't checked the news for a while, but the last count was 16 assassinations of candidates. A number of stores were closed (and remained so all day), alcohol sales were banned.

It really didn't take much to convince me to take a day off the road.

Also, I'm getting close to Guatemala. San Cristobal de las Casas is next up, then downhill to Guatemala. Guatemala will let me in with a negative Covid test. In fact, I can probably make my way down as far as Panama just by taking tests. 
Getting to Colombia will be tricky, probably requiring a plane and after Colombia? Who knows? Ecuador and Peru are not good. 

It's rainy season and hurricane season in lands suffering a pandemic. 

I'm not feeling positive. 

There is still a lot of Mexico to explore but anywhere on the coast scares the bejaysus out of me with the heat! 

My visitor permit is good until August (after that I'll need to cross a border) and my insurance needs to be renewed (actually a whole new policy) in September. Two feckin' years nearly up already!

I've looked into work in exchange for accommodation but there's not much happening with the exception of hostels and I don't think I'd enjoy that.

Heading back to the U.S. is a possibility - I'm not sure if they'll let me in and Winter is coming! 

It's thinking time!

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, June 07, 2021, Tuxtla Gutiérrez to San Cristóbal de las Casas 59km Total KM 1484

Min meters 424, Max Meters 2259
Total Climb 2117 Total Descent 337
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 45
Ave Temp 30


Ah, my plans were in disarray before I even woke up! I overslept and wasn't leaving until 7. Bah! I had wanted to be leaving at 6, coffeed up, to get a good run at the big climb ahead before it got too hot.

Traffic was on the hectic side and because of a big river and a lack of bridges there wasn't much I could do to avoid it

_*Leaving Tuxtla and crossing a swiftly flowing river. Down below are the boats used to zip tourists through the canyon where monkeys, birds and crocodiles are to be seen. I've read varying reports of the quality of these tours*_​






I was taking the cuota today. With over 2000 meters of climbing ahead of me I figured I'd need the generous shoulder.

I dropped out of the city past the entrance to the Cañón de Sumidero and saw the brightly coloured boats used to bring tourists along the river to see crocodiles and monkeys. The river was very brown and fast flowing with lots of debris. Perhaps I should have done this tour yesterday but the rain and my mood put me off. I can always catch a bus back from San Cristóbal.

Since the climbing started from here I plugged in my little speaker and headed up. I was going to need my music!

*For most of the day the land to my left sloped down to me and was pretty wild, lush and green. *​





I'm sure I'm not unique in this observation, but my i-pod kicks ass!!!
The sheer range of music on it is phenomenal, even if a bit embarrassing at times. I haven't really used it in a long time so just sticking on shuffle and listening to whatever it threw at me was very enjoyable!

*The land to my right was a rich plain, productive with mountains far off in the distance. There was little change except it got lower and lower*



​My first target was an Oxxo another 10km up the road for water and coffee. I hadn't had coffee yet and today was going to be a coffee day! It was already warm and the lack of clouds suggested more heat when the sun got into its stride.

I wasn't wrong!

*The Roadworks appeared after the Oxxo, disappeared for a while and resumed later. This piccie also highlights the sun/shade situation*​





Progress was slow but steady. This is a two laner with shoulders, but of course, the shoulder is used as a lane by slower traffic. The Touring Gods were being kind, though, throwing some roadworks into the mix which effectively sealed off the shoulder for me behind barriers. Sure, it meant having to take the lane from time to time, the rest of the time I was cocooned in my own little safe world.

*Taking a breather in bright sunshine!*​





Due to direction and the angle of the sun the only shade offered was on the other side of the road. When I'd see a likely spot I'd pull over, leave the bike in the rain gully and sit down. Because of the narrower road the traffic passed close, but safely. At the more luxurious spots I could even lie down!

One thing I look out for now are ants! There always seems to be ants and they are incredibly busy running hither and thither and carrying all kinds of things. In rough or overgrown spots it can be difficult to see the "big picture" with them, but in smoother, cleaner scenes long lines of ants can contrast easily with their surroundings. It really is fascinating. 

At one such stop, lying down, I was passed by a long line of traffic behind a slowly climbing truck. I'm sure the image I presented was one of laid back cyclist, taking it easy (especially since I was on the "down" side of the road) as opposed to the overheated, behind schedule dumbass I was, but I got a lot of waves and toots from the opposite lane. I don't know what it says about me that friendly recognition from strangers can be so uplifting.

As the sun rose higher, shadow became scarcer and my internal temperature was rising. Water consumption was high but I was confident that I'd have chances to replenish. My music was proving a wonderful distraction and I was getting a lot of toots and waves from passing traffic. I did get a bit concerned when I reached the junction with a small town and there was no shop and similarly passed a group of empty shops/comedores on both sides of the road. With about half a liter of water left and not yet halfway I started to ration.

Relief came in the firm of a roadside "Elote" stand that sold corn on the cob. It was only getting started so I had some water, crisps (for the salt) and topped up my bottles.

*The weather starting to turn..... But at least I was getting high!



*​By now dark clouds were appearing and starting to block out the sun, changing the nature of the heat from direct to steamy. Spying some proper restaurants ahead I prepared to pull in but passed the first block in favour of a lone one a little later.
Such views! From high up I could see, it seemed, forever, or at least until detail was lost in the haze. Behind me, looking up, was just as impressive but much more intimidating! Dark clouds were becoming angry and starting to swirl in an increasing wind.
Then the rain started.
After that the rain lashed!
And the temperature dropped.
I was cold!
Shivering cold!
I can't remember the last time being so cold!
I donned my rain jacket for warmth and waited out the downpour. It was a sustained, heavy downpour for at least half an hour then progressively lightened off. Once again I was lucky.

*The view at the restaurant. The really ugly clouds were behind me*​





Stopped, at last, although still with a threatening sky overhead I set off again. I hadn't gone 200 meters when the thunder rolled - but the rain held off. Still cool, I found myself making decent progress thanks to a fenced off shoulder.

*This area is called "The Sea of the Clouds". Even in spitting rain I can see why.*​





Then it wasn't dry anymore. With a fantastic bang the rain started again. I made it to a barrier, parked up and hopped under some trees. About as much use as a shelter as a hanky. At least the deluge didn't last long, although a lighter rain continued on.

Back on the road again, the temperature dropped to 16C, the lowest of the day. From mid twenties when I started to mid forties at the peak. Being a tad cold is a great incentive for getting warm and it wasn't long until I was overheating in my rain jacket. The rain eased off and I started to wonder if taking it off would tempt fate? Feck it, off it came!

With about 8km to go my climbing was over!! Heading down the other side cold was an issue again! Yep! I'm never happy!
I made the edge of town, had a chat with a street seller at a red light and headed for a hostel.
Then the rain started again! Heavy rain!

*Was more rain really a surprise?*​






I arrived like the proverbial drowned rat, wet and cold again. Got checked in, showered and set off for food - thankfully in the dry.

*A swing, made from a tyre at the restaurant. They had a few different animals, all tyres, but this was my favourite!*​





I'm going to hunker down for a few days and try to decide what to do next. Guatemala is just down the road. I can get in with a Covid test. In fact, as things stand, I can get as far as Panama by taking tests at the borders. Then I quite literally run out of road.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Jun 2021)

🇬🇹

Hopefully normal service resumes soon!


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jun 2021)

San Cristobal de las Casas is not my kind of town. 
Hostels are not my kinds of places.
I'm sure my perceptions are clouded by a really bad dose of the runs but even so…..

I extended my stay twice because I didn't want to be on the road and not be able to control my insides. 

I did however decide to cross into Guatemala. How far I'll go is anyone's guess. 

*The town is surrounded by sharply angled hills covered in greenery. *​





*Lots of significant buildings are closed off with metal sheeting. Either all the buildings are getting a simultaneous facelift or I'm seeing the results of recent riots in the state. 
This was taken one handed through a gap in the sheeting. *​






*A rare break from the rain!*






*Early morning before the street becomes snarled with traffic*​






*Even the graffiti was tense. There was a lot of political graffiti everywhere. I think it's fair to say that the Government is not popular here.*​





*The White Bridge, a local landmark.*​





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 16, 2021, San Cristóbal de las Casas to Comitan 90km Total KM 1574

Min meters 1667, Max Meters 2396
Total Climb 961 Total Descent 1353
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 30
Ave Temp 21

Rolling through Rebel Country

It's good to have a simple objective and today's objective was the very definition of simplicity - cycle 90 odd km without soiling myself. 
Mission accomplished!

Armed with a negative Covid test I have 72 hours to cross the border some 170km away. Realistically, I'll want to cross on the morning of the third day so today's destination is Comitán (de Domingo). 

Awake before 6 I set about getting organised. I've decided to leave my solar panel in the hostel - realistically it's not going to get any use for the next while and my dynohub should be enough "in case of emergency". I've also dumped my sandals - another strap has failed and again, they will not be the most suitable footwear where I'm going. They're surprisingly heavy to add to the load when I'm not wearing them.

*Leaving town. It might seem dull and uninspiring but the clouds playing with the mountains was anything but!*​





Getting out of town was a little chaotic but I was soon on a decent road with a decent shoulder with a decent ascent ahead of me. It won't show up well in the photos but the steep, wooded hills all around were either hidden by or rising through some pretty heavy cloud. There's something mysterious and inspiring about that in my world.

There were quite a few roadies leaving or entering town (I didn't see anyone on the climb), none of whom, bar one, actually saw me including the two who whizzed past me way too close almost sending me into a nasty pothole. 

Clouds of varying levels of intimidation were a feature of the day. A few raindrops threatened now and again but the day remained dry. Except for when climbing I was bordering on being cold. That's unusual!






After more than a week of less than optimal health that first climb took a lot out of me. Despite the generous shoulder the traffic was an issue too. The usual habit of using the shoulder as a lane was evident but with a tad less ……. consideration. More than once traffic left it to the very, very last moment to pull out. I could understand it if under pressure from an overtaker themselves, but often there was none. It was especially disturbing when a motorcyclist did it. Most negative stories in this part of the world start off with "and then two guys on a motorcycle ……".
Strangely, if stopped, I got lots of waves. 






I was in forest country and for the first time in a long time shade wasn't an issue! It wasn't hot and the dense cloud kept the sun away. 
I was also in rebel country. This area is Zapatista country - an indigenous movement inspired by Mexico's involvement in the NAFTA (and subsequent) trade deals. While the violence has subsided and the movement now participates in parliamentary elections, it hasn't gone away. 
One pretty obvious sign of this is petrol being sold on the side of the road for 15/16 pesos a liter from plastic containers. (The Pemex (State owned) stations start at 20/21 pesos per liter). I've noticed these since entering Chiapas but yesterday there was a density to them that was unignorable and explained the heavily armed convoys I have seen.






I also passed through a Zapatista "town", a big sign announcing that it was run by the inhabitants for the inhabitants. Several murals depicted masked people which predated Covid. It wasn't intimidating, per se, but I didn't feel comfortable stopping to take a photo. There was also a line of huts that, if I understood correctly, was for the use of "volunteers". 

Ironically, there is a large army base in the area and after passing that I lost my shoulder and the road turned to crap. 






There was a long, twisty descent through several small villages, all bar one, with row upon row of wooden huts selling artesenal products. One village seemed to specialise in ceramics, each hut selling similar merchandise, the next wood. Stores, side by side by side selling the same merchandise. It didn't make a lot of sense to me unless it's a communal effort.

IOverlander is full of reports of checkpoints, official and unofficial, in these parts. Searches for drugs are common at the official stops and can be quite vigorous or less so for a "tip". I passed two today - the first I was stopped for a chat and the second just waved through. There was no shortage of illicit drugs in San Cristóbal. 

I stopped in one of the villages for lunch, eating al fresco in the main plaza. Setting off again it wasn't long until I was back into a climb but at least the surface improved and I had a shoulder again! Slow, and despite the cool temperature I was hot and sweaty. I knew I had about 15km to go up, then all downhill. A car pulled in and the driver gave me an apple! A cyclist, he overestimated by 5km how long my climb was!

*As climbs go it was pretty!*​





These past days I've been finding it difficult to drink and today was no exception, despite sweating loads. I stopped regularly to sip my water - normally I'd be guzzling.

At the top I pulled into a bus stop to eat my celebratory apple, then headed off again.
I took it easy not wanting to get too cold but still flew into Comitán.

*Now this is how to announce yourself!*​





There's no shortage of hotels and Booking.com delivered a real bargain in the centre so I turned off the main road.
Whoah!!!
This is a steep little town! At one stage one of the streets was so steep there was only a pushing option!
I detoured via the Plaza and fell a little in love. 
So, so different from San Cristobal, and for my money, so much nicer. I sat in the Plaza for a little while just soaking up the calmness. 
The website had the wrong address, nearly sending me down an impossible hill, but I found the hotel, checked in and almost ran out to explore!

*I'm sure I miss lots of things with my haphazard approach to planning, but in my defence I'm much rather the tingle of excitement that a view like this inspires! It had me rushing off to my hotel to drop my gear and go explore!*​





I'm sure this is a tourist town too (all the hotels point to that) but it has such a different, normal vibe. It's full of "normal" shops selling "normal" things to "normal" people. The sun coming out to shine helped a lot too!

There are some wonderful views of long, narrow streets dropping down and rich, lush green landscape in the background. I found these views captivating.





People were more prone to smile here than they have been for a while. The Plaza was full of children playing, smiling and laughing - always good to generate a pleasant atmosphere. 
I had a good wander and explore, had some simple food and back for a shower and an early night. I was very, very tired.

Here's a weird thing. It was only today that the penny dropped with me that I am leaving México! All of my focus was on where I was going, not where I was leaving. 

*Follow the spire......*​





Chat? Yes Please!
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//


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, June 17, 2021, Comitan to Ciudad Cuauhtémoc 83km Total KM 1657

Min meters 604, Max Meters 1667
Total Climb 429 Total Descent 1282
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35
Ave Temp 26

Breaking for the Border

Despite having an internal room (warm & stuffy) I was awoken at about 4 am by rain pounding on the bathroom skylight. And again at 6. Uh oh.

About 8 I got up, still raining, but not as heavy, and went for a wander. Wet. Wet. Wet.
Back in the room I packed up and then went for breakfast. Still raining! 

I loaded the bike outside - a tricky job on such a steep hill - donned my raingear and set off. I took a meandering route back to the main road trying to avoid the worst of the steep descents and climbs - narrow streets, heavy traffic, crazy steep sections, rain and a loaded bike do not make for a fun combination! Let's not forget the road engineering too, designed to accommodate all that rain! Drains more akin to cattle grids were common. 

*On a day like today you gotta look for the beauty wherever you can find it!*​





The main road through town was interesting - busy, dodgy surfaces, homicidal collectivos, flooding but I was soon on the edge of town and using a shoulder. 

The rain was ok but it was cool - Gizmo settling down to 20C. A busyish 4 lane road was not exactly inspiring and the constant rolling hills kept me warm. I settled in for a pretty dull day.

I stopped at the last Oxxo (possibly my last one!) for a coffee after about 15km and at the crest of a hill. The rain had all but stopped but with a descent ahead I kept my raingear on.

I lost my shoulder for the descent which made it all the more interesting! Guardless drops kept me away from the edge, impatient oncoming overtakers pushed me back over! 
At one stage I was overtaken by an articulated truck that was itself being overtaken by another articulated truck on the brow of a hill with a blind bend following. It's a nightmare for me that an accident will occur during one of these manoeuvres. Usually there is no cellphone coverage between towns to call for help. 







I was above the clouds for a while then dropped through them. The countryside was very green, a lush healthy green that I could smell. There were very few safe places to stop for a photo. 

Then, below the clouds I saw this:





To my way of thinking and sense of direction that's Guatemala after the plain!

I don't know if it was the sight of the next country or the extremely sharp hairpins but the road seemed to come to life! 
It wasn't the kind of road for just letting go - in fact it required a lot of care. 
Walls of rock and cliffs gave way to trees as I dropped down.
Turning a bend I saw the flashing lights of a Police car and a lot of people. A truck carrying sacks of cement had rolled over trying to join the road and the cab had been entirely squashed into a rain gulley. I just kept going and was passed moments later by an ambulance rushing to the scene.
I have never seen as many accidents as I have here in México. 

*There be dragons! As excited as I was to be entering a new country my anxiety was growing to match it. There are only so many times I can read "Do not travel" before it has an effect.*​





All too soon it was over and I was dumped out on the plain about 800 meters above sea level. Hot!! 30C and humidity you could bottle. But a shoulder again!

*Flat and dry but hot and humid!*​





I pulled in and ditched the rain gear and set off again into a headwind. 
Thank the Touring Gods for headwinds!  It kept me cool. (If I ever do make it to Argentina I can pretty much guarantee that I won't be writing such a sentence!)

I was belting out a decent pace and enjoying myself even if the landscape wasn't so inspiring. Then I came across a sign for Guatemala and that put a big smile on my face. 
Regularly spaced little settlements reminded me that some food wouldn't go amiss so I pulled in with 25km to go. The sun even came out while I ate!

*My first sign for Guatemala!*​





I took a decent break after the food not wanting to upset my internals too much. Once out of the shade the temperature had risen so I was glad to be moving again and into the wind.

I got occasional glimpses of mountains in the distance, a vivid and deep blue against the grey clouds. About 3km from Ciudad Cuauhtémoc I lost my shoulder, the road turned to crap and I could feel random drops of rain. A race was not what I wanted!

*Mother Nature closing in on me*​




So I didn't! 
With a narrow road and no shoulder Nature seemed to be trying to envelop me. There were interesting trees and some flowering bushes. It's such a contrast to the scene that greeted me 18 months ago when I crossed from Texas into a desert! 

Ciudad means city and this ain't no city!! 
I pulled into the only hotel - where Andy Peat (CGOAB) stayed. Oh dear Lord! Probably the worst place I've stayed! 
(Captain Hindsight says: There's a newer hotel further along the road!)

Tomorrow, the plan is to get up, cross the border (hopefully!), buy some currency and head on into Guatemala. I don't have many choices, there only being one road for a while, but that road is officially labeled as the Pan American - a road synonymous with biking to Argentina. Hell, synonymous with all kinds of travel through the Americas! In my mind, it's a road that says "Adventure". And I'm going to be riding on it!!
(Mex 190 which I've been on for a while is officially named Carratera Internacional and I've seen it on one map as the Pan American).
As excited as I am to pedal on such an iconic road I'll probably be hopping off it at the first opportunity. It heads for the coast and I want to avoid that. I'm seeing lots of mountains in my future!

*All this climbing is taking it out of me, but I prefer it to the excessive heat/humidity combo. The bonus is that sometimes I get to travel down a road like this!*​






I honestly don't know how far I am going to go. 
If Guatemala is unpleasant I'm prepared to turn around. Reentry to México is straightforward and I'll get another 6 month permit.
El Salvador, I believe, won't let me in but the other countries will, Covid test permitting. 
Honduras and Nicaragua are a bit intimidating. I can stay in mountains in Honduras but Nicaragua has me back on the coast. Ditto Costa Rica and Panama. Hot! Humid! 
The boats I had been hoping to utilise to cross to Colombia are still out of action.
Logistically, even if I can continue to cross borders I'm going to be hitting Peru at the wrong time, weatherwise.
In a perfect world I'll get to Panama, catch a plane to Chile and continue from there. 
But this ain't a perfect world and Panama is a long, long way away. 
I'll just have to take each day as it comes. 

*I'm nervous about tomorrow but I tell myself that if I give in to my fears I won't get to see views like this*​





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, June 18, 2021, Ciudad Cuauhtémoc to the far side of Colotenango 57km Total KM 1714

Min meters 690, Max Meters 1557
Total Climb 1311 Total Descent 379
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 39
Ave Temp 28

Bienvenido a Guatemala. Fantasyland.

Hot water they said! Pffffft!

I had an unsettled night's sleep and woke regularly. Then overslept.
I'd planned to brew up some coffee but scrapped that and hit the road. After being offered my morning marijuana by one of the staff.

The Mexican immigration office is in the town and that was a simple stamp and return my immigration page. 
Then it was a steep climb through fantasyland with low clouds, mist and mountains appearing and disappearing. Beautiful! 

*Carlsberg don't do borders......
I felt like I was on a magical mystery tour



*
_(A reference to an ad campaign that was far too long ago!)_​In the context of heading for the border of a new country?
Inspirational!
The sun even started to make an appearance!

*It was at this point, still in México with the sun shining, fantasyland all around me that my smiles kicked my nervousness' ass!*​




​The Guatemalan border was in a town too, La Mesilla. A friendly local pointed me to where I had to go. The very pleasant lady behind the counter directed me next door for the Covid formalities - check my test result, take my temperature and make lots of notes. Back next door and I was done before I knew it!
90 days. As far as I understand that's for Honduras and El Salvador too and possibly Nicaragua. 
Inside and outside the offices are information posters for migrants, even migrant children.
In one it talks of a right to return and that the government will help without discrimination.
Another, for kids who can't stay where they are sets out practical advice such as memorising phone numbers of family and friends, of writing down their route and taking note of what Government offices can help them and where they are.
The fact is that I could easily cross over and back from Mexico to Guatemala and back again without ever once having to show my passport. Someone who doesn't stand out as an obvious foreigner would have even less problems.
*Crazytown!*​





Back at the bike a man I'd spotted earlier approached to change money. No messing around and now I have to get to grips with a whole new currency.

I walked through the chaos that is La Mesilla, basically steep streets lined with stores selling clothes and electronics. Crazy, even early in the morning.
Yet, every now and then I was offered a glimpse through an alley of rich green nature, so close I could almost touch it.
I was hungry but there were no places where I could eat and keep the bike under observation so I continued on out and up. There are quite a few villages along the way. I don't think I'm going to starve!






There was a shoulder, gratefully used as I climbed higher. It disappeared for a long descent through dense greenery. In one village I spotted a food place and dropped in for some breakfast.

*Outside La Mesilla, before the descent. Nerves? What nerves??*​





A delightful lady offered things to accompany my eggs all accepted by me and when I was finished told me to rest as long as I wanted.

My descent soon petered out and now I was climbing again, sans shoulder. Interesting! There was a string of villages and traffic could be hairy.
Repurposed US style school buses decked out in vivid colours and names barrelled along. Today, it was fun and interesting but I know that impression will change!

*A brief infatuation, I fear!*​





The temperature rose through the day and I was feeling it in my head. 
I pulled in at a little store to top up my water - I'm guzzling again.
Edgar came over for a chat. A carpenter by trade he wants to learn English and wanted my number for that! Instead, I told him about Duolingo so out with his phone, download the app and then he wanted me to help him with the test they do to check your proficiency! I got rolling again! 

It seems like I'm in a different world. A green, mountainous world.
I'm not seeing anything I haven't seen before in terms of plants or trees or mountains, it's just that there is a density and a proximity that increases the impact.

*A green, mountainous world. *​





I stopped again at a little store in the shade for an ice cream and met Christian, a 10 year old with lots of questions. He was helping his brother packing sticks into bags and when the work was over the conversation began.
Confident, uninhibited and genuinely curious he was very engaging. Then he ran off to get his English homework so I could help him.
That was fun! 
We started with the alphabet, me pointing to a letter and he having to say it in English. Then I'd ask for an English word with that letter. He said he didn't know any and I'd tease him, asking questions to prompt him to say things like "Baseball" or "Football". I could see the delight in his eyes when he realised he knew more than he thought!
In fairness, his teacher isn't great. Looking ahead in his copy book the examples of words the teacher used were inaccessible and uninspiring for a kid. "S" was scale, as in to climb, "F" for feather (but "B" wasn't for bird!)
I shouldn't have stayed so long but I was enjoying myself immensely. His grandmother was heartily laughing as I was drawing the words out of him.

*Passing through a village*​





I set off again, still climbing. I was following an angry, brown river that was rushing down a twisty, narrow valley. I'd climb, drop, then climb again, constantly rising. 
After marvelling at the quality of the road at the start, my opinion soon changed as it became quite poor. The dreaded topes didn't make an appearance until later and they're worse than in Mexico because they are broken up and quite dangerous on a loaded bike.

I had no destination in mind since I had no idea how long the border crossing would take but the further one, Huehuetenango was now out of reach unless I really wanted to push myself. I'm not pushing myself on the first day in a new country!

*Rush? Through this? No thank you!*​





Then the rain came! Thankfully on the outskirts of a town so I pulled in for some (sheltered) grilled corn on the cob and a pleasant chat with a young fella. Colotenango had a couple of "Love Hotels" which looked iffy when I cycled past but there was an outdoor swimming complex the far side of town that IOverlander said allowed camping. I'd try that.
All I had to do was get through town.
Chaos! Gridlock! Craziness on a level not seen in a while!
I could see no obvious cause but there were three lanes of traffic on a two lane road! All going nowhere!
Safer walking, I was skipping between cars, trucks and buses when a man on a motorcycle started talking to me. He clearly wanted to practise his English but I was struggling to understand as I tried to avoid getting squashed. He offered me a place to stay at his home which I was delighted to accept until he said it was 40km away. I didn't have 40km in my legs and the rain, stopped for the moment, was going to return. He wanted to ride home then return to pick me up. I couldn't accept that! In the end we got separated in the traffic, an aggressive bus sending me scrambling off the road, he having to move on or be hit.

*Before the rain, the traffic, the fumes, the chaos there was this.....*​





While catching my breath in front of a pickup stuck on the wrong side of the road the driver hopped out, handed me two bananas and wished me a good journey!
In fact, that crazy traffic was a bonus for a cyclist because I got lots and lots of positive messages, waves, toots, smiles and even wolf whistles - from women! It's been a while since I smiled so much! 

Still in the traffic I came to the baths, rolled in, found an employee to be told no camping! 

Back on the road again my next option was a Love Hotel. "The Memory of Love" AutoHotel no less! 
The lady who checked me in is a delight, showing me how I can park the bike, pull down the shutter and all is safe. My room is actually downstairs. A few minutes later she's knocking at the internal door to give me a big, bright wooly blanket! I'm guessing she realised I have no-one to keep we warm!
My room is past its best, but it's home for tonight. The rain is pishing down but I have mirrors to each side, at each end and above my bed! 
Me? I'm more interested in the fact that I have hot water! Jeez but I'm getting old!

I was quite apprehensive about today. Not knowing what lay in store at the borders, possibly leaving the bike unattended (it was never out of my sight), changing money on the street and all the current warnings about the border area. 
In reality? It was a waste of (negative) energy! 
My only quibble is that I haven't seen a "Pan American" roadsign! For some reason I want a photo.

Guatemala is going to be tough, there's no doubt about that. But there's a reward. 
The landscape is from a fantasy. The people, so far, are genuine and helpful, friendly too. 
Give me a road here where I'm not having to constantly focus and there's no limit to where this place will bring me! 

*Feck me! I'm in Guatemala! *​




(So good I include it twice)


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, June 19, 2021, Colotenango to Huehuetenango 35km Total KM 1749

Min meters 1531, Max Meters 1909
Total Climb 562 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 25

Another land of smiles!

You know, there's a lot to be said for a mirror over the bed! I didn't get to experience it until the morning when I got up for a pee, turned on the light and went back to bed. It has potential to be a lot of fun! With someone else of course!

I was in no great rush this morning for two reasons - it was raining and I didn't have too far to go. On top of that I could hear lots of traffic on the road. Despite sleeping well I was tired, too.

I got up and brewed some coffee in the parking area and enjoyed my first cup as the rain stopped and I was watching the river roaring past the back of the motel.

*The river rushing past in the morning. The fields opposite are productive, to the right and up there is a church high on the hill and the corrugated structure covers the stairs of the neighbouring room. The rain makes an interesting noise on those! This is not a part of the world to travel in if you enjoy peace and quiet!*​





Then it was pack time. In the middle of packing there was a gentle knock on the internal door and a different little old lady enquired if I had slept well! I can't remember the last time anyone asked me that in a hotel! Some questions about my trip, again, a genuine interest and she left me to finish packing.

I can't eat in the morning these days. That's not like me. Normally I can shovel away a big bowl of porridge and then some. Given that I was hungry falling asleep last night it's a little odd.







So I set off again, uphill again, but at least it was cool and dry. Traffic was heavy, but tended to be grouped together. Oftentimes it was better to pull off the road when a convoy headed by an old truck was moving up behind me.

There was a string of villages along the way. Usually, a few mechanics/stores along the road, the actual village being above the road - often with a precipitously steep road up. Rope bridges were common across the river allowing people to walk to the road or to the village. 
Before this road was built this must have been a very isolated spot!

*The sun starting to peek out as I pass through a village. There are a lot of uncompleted buildings, larger than in México, that people seem to be working on and living in. I saw one young fella sifting gravel through a large, homemade sieve to separate sand to mix with cement. That'll explain the slow progress! *​





Those bright buses are losing their appeal already! Get behind one approaching a tope and it will slow right down to get over it then hit the accelerator - a huge, dense, particle filled cloud of black smoke is the result! In a village or town where they stop a lot you really don't want to be behind them!

I have to take my hat off to the operators of the AutoHotels here. They may not look like much but they are named well! "The Place of Hidden Passions", "The Keys to Ecstasy" and "The Secret of Love" are just some of the names I recall from today. 

*A monument celebrating Central America. Closed off from the road, but I could easily walk down to it. While setting up the shot a guy on a bike pulled up beside mine. He didn't touch anything but set off as I approached.*​





In almost every settlement I received cheers of encouragement and friendly comments often in English. Kids especially. In one or two just sullen looks. Lots of wandering dogs, more nervous of me than me of them. One chase but he was a barker. When the sun came out the dogs took to sleeping, even on a bridge with traffic hurtling along right beside them. It didn't always end well. I saw one small dog being picked apart by evil, black vultures. Up close they really are sinister, ugly beasts 

I pulled in for some fried chicken and chips, probably not the healthiest breakfast but it did the trick.

I was higher now and the river was less swollen, less angry. Then, rising over one crest I was in open farmland. After that it was up and down with not much altitude gain.

*A rope bridge to allow pedestrians cross the river. There were quite a few of these today. Alternatively, there were steep, zigzagging stairs leading from the road up to some houses. Not for the faint of heart or the inebriated!*​





I turned off for Huehuetenango and immediately hit traffic. Slow, heavy traffic. Still before noon I was in no rush. I was headed optimistically for the Plaza where I hoped to grab some wifi and check out accommodation options. 

It seems like the entire centre is a huge street market and is not for the claustrophobic. I eventually made it to the Plaza, a disappointment, and hooked into some free wifi but it wouldn't work. Nothing for it but to go wandering.
I found a hotel, decent price, very pleasant check in lady, dropped my gear and headed out for a wander. No doubt it will rain at some stage so I'll make the most of the dry!

*I stopped gaining height (but still had ups and downs) and the land became more user friendly.*​





Guatemalan Plazas ain't nothing like Mexican ones! I wandered around weaving between traffic, stalls and sleeping dogs. Crazy! Not a place for relaxing. 
I wandered to a coffee museum thinking it was a museum about coffee…… 
It had old TVs, radios, cameras, record players and coffee. So I had one. 
Then wandered around some more. 

There are some ruins outside of town but the thoughts of facing in to all that traffic craziness was too much. I am a bad tourist. Instead I returned to my hotel and caught up with this - even suffering a power cut! 

*More traffic gridlock! To the right is a rain gulley about half a meter deep. Fall in there and you'll know all about it!*​





A bite to eat later and I was ready for bed. 

The Hotel kindly provided me with a copy of the New Testament! I haven't seen that in a long long time!

*Yep! I went down here on a loaded bike!*​





There's a big American influence here. La Mesilla had lots of "American Clothes" stores and to be fair they were different in colour (more bland) and style (brand names) than what I have being seeing. 
"American" can be a sensitive adjective in México. To Europeans America is the USA and Americans celebrate the 4th of July. But they're North Americans to the Americans of Central and Southern America and México.
I didn't pay too much attention in La Mesilla but on entering the chaos that is Huehuetenango I was hit with Wendy's and Taco Bell. I nearly fell off my bike seeing Taco Bell! That's like taking an American version of an Irish Pub and plonking it down in Ireland. No local is going to go!
The final piece of the puzzle fell into place when I bought some more electrolytes - each sachet to be dissolved in 8oz of water. What the feck is 8oz of water????
(About ¼ liter as it turns out). I thought they were metric here.

*The Cathedral beside the Plaza.*​





Another quirk - they're an hour behind México! It was my phone that told me that. It's not a particularly significant issue (I struggle to recall what day it is!) but it does explain why the Covid lady at the border was just getting organised when I offered her my cheerful Buenos Días! 

*Now this I really appreciated! A relief map of the State I'm currently in.*​




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (25 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, June 20 2021, Huehuetenango to Cuatro Caminos 77km Total KM 1826

Min meters 1707, Max Meters 2805
Total Climb 1571 Total Descent 1104
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 24

Never a dull moment on the Pan American!

Going to sleep I started having doubts about where I was going. The plan was to hit Quetzaltenango and then down to Lake Atitlán. Another big town and then a lake! I like water what's wrong with that?
Well, a few places along the shore are backpacker haunts and frankly I had enough of that in San Cristobal. Also, another big Guatemalan town doesn't inspire me.
So, when I woke up I decided to stop short at a place where I had alternatives - Cuatro Caminos, the place of Four Roads fit the bill.

It rained a lot of the night but had stopped by the time I got up. The sky looked ugly, though.

I set off and despite the light traffic there was still chaos. Near the junction with the main road I encountered a truck heading the wrong way on a dual carriageway!

*The offending truck! Scared the bejaysus out of me and sent me scurrying to the side.*



​And then the heavens opened! Thankfully there was a filling station with café that gave me shelter and caffeine. Setting off again I donned my rain jacket. I had a quick descent, the sun came out and the perfect bridge (and view) to stop and remove my jacket. It must be the Irish in me but a bit of sunshine always lifts my spirits. Ahead of me was all uphill!

*This is the spot I stopped and removed my rain gear. When there was no traffic it was peaceful and calm, reminding me a lot of an Alpine Valley*



​You'd think that not having a shoulder would be my biggest issue facing in to a long climb but the road itself was - when it was there!
There were several sections with no surface, just sand, mud, rocks and water filled potholes. These varied in length from about 20 to 500 meters. Great fun!

*I expect to encounter surfaces like this - just not on the main artery through the Americas!




*​At times this only affected the other side sending that traffic onto my side. Not such great fun!
And once, a part of the road had fallen into the valley below! No fun at all given how little warning was given and I wondered what it looked like at night!

*Another high point on the scare scale! What's amazing to me is the lack of warning in advance and the complete absence of any lights or even reflective materials.*



​It was slow going but in fairness some of the views were spectacular! I'd read that the Pan American in Guatemala was dead on Sundays - not this Sunday! Traffic was in packs and not always bike friendly. I saw way too many crazy overtakes and more than once rode into the ditch to avoid some of the crazy.

For a little while I had a climbing lane so pulled in to relax a bit. Eduardo in a MTB was coming up behind and stopped for a chat. He was sweating more than me!

I stopped at a little Comedor for a lunch of tacos and coffee from a very pleasant young woman. While there, a large truck, rig only, pulled up. Always a good sign when professional drivers choose the same place to eat.
Two rear axles, four wheels on each giving eight tyres in total, none matching. Two were bald to the wires. Four were just bald. And two had thread. Scary!

*Stopping for a moment to appreciate this can calm the nerves, though.*



​Zig zagging my way up I heard the sound of a choir across the valley! When I finally made it around the church was way above me but I could still hear it as I looped around again.




​Fear, anxiety, call it what you will is a funny thing. A couple of days ago I was quite anxious about travelling in the border area. My anxiety wouldn't let me eat in La Mesilla because there were no places to park my bike in sight. Today, in the middle of nowhere three guys plus chainsaw pulled up opposite me on a motorbike. One hopped off and disappeared into the bushes where he started to climb up to an almost hidden house. His two friends greeted me cheerily and set off again.
Later, resting, two men carrying machetes hopped over the guardrail opposite and made a beeline towards me. One greeted me cheerfully and they both climbed the uneven steps cut into the rock to a house above me. Not for the first time I had to remind myself that traffic represents the greatest risk to me ….. and my imagination!

*A mountain village




*​I knew I'd eventually have a descent but the road was fecking with my head with a few false summits.
Eventually, though, I was finished with the big climb and started to descend through tall pine trees. Just to make sure I couldn't enjoy it fully my descent was accompanied by thunder! And the ocassional steep climb that had me swearing.

*Looking to my right and my destination the weather looks fine, but sweeping in straight ahead of me is a nasty, evil, rain soaked cloud of doom!*​





There were some spectacular views of volcanoes and a valley far below me and even a waterfall on the opposite side. Beautiful!
*Volcanoes! When the sun is shining this really is a beautiful place!*



​Coming up to the hotel there were some serious roadworks taking place but I made it. Cheap, so the wifi doesn't work and the "hot" water is icy cold.
I ran out to grab some food and had another early night.

Thinking during the day I decided to skip Quetzaltenango and Lake Atitlán. I picked out a camping option in a forest on iOverlander and then close by a large park with camping options for the next day (It's not open on Mondays).
I'm happy for two reasons;
First to be back in the tent Yaaaay!
Second to be taking a bit of time to actually stop and smell the roses. Both days combined are only about 60km! Yaaaaay!





​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, June 21 2021, Cuatro Caminos to Near 150km marker 40km Total KM 1866

Min meters 2351, Max Meters 3028
Total Climb 926 Total Descent 768
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 22

Guatemala: Weatherwise it's like two countries in one!

It rained a lot of the night. I woke up at 5 and thought about getting up. It was easier to fall back asleep so I did.

I got up and got packed in brilliant sunshine and I wondered if the heat would make me regret my sleep in. I wasn't too worried as my destination was only about 45km away. 

I stopped at a Comedor just down from the hotel for a delicious breakfast of eggs and coffee made by a mother and daughter team. Then I set off into the chaos of the roadworks. 
The road I wanted was closed but I squeezed past the truck blocking it and soon was on a dual carriageway heading up. And up. 330 meters in the first 6km! That'll wake me up! 

_*Getting through the roadworks was fun! They're building a flyover to replace my road. It's not finished yet, so there is only one "lane" of mud and rocks. No traffic lights, nobody directing traffic - just a free for all!



*_​I was in good form. I was hoping to camp tonight in a forest, a tip from iOverlander. About 45km away but with a climb breaking the 3000 meter peak. Slow and steady was the game.

*The roadworks from further back. The main road (so main they're building a flyover!) was blocked on the far side. Not a hint orca trace of a diversion sign and no obvious way for a vehicle to get on it! In NL they put up diversion signs (and usually special routes) just for bikes!



*​Even with two lanes I had to be careful of the traffic. At one stage a truck pulled into the "fast" lane to overtake me but Captain Impatient undertook him scaring the bejaysus out of me. 

I stopped at a filling station and had a cold drink, a rest and some delicious coconut sweets. 






The sky in these parts is always changing. Clouds shade the landscape in one area while the sun highlights another. The landscape can change dramatically as clouds move across. Black clouds threaten and at one stage today Gizmo dropped from 32C to 22C when a big cloud blocked out the sun.
*Scary clouds moving in! Behind me the sun was blazing!*



​I figured I had about 18km of climbing before dropping down again. When the descent came it was shrouded in mist and over way too soon. The road surface was poor too. Is that a bit of tar or a pothole? There was no letting go! 
In these moments my head always flies back to The Devil's Backbone and how thrilling that was. How lucky was I to enjoy such perfect conditions!

*Handy hint. I have a pair of "yellow" sunglasses. In the swirling mist they gave me almost perfect visibility!

*Just at the top the mist starts swirling around. Time to stop, don my rain gear (it's cold!), turn on all my lights and brave the descent*



​With about 15km to go I stopped for a bite in a little town and as I headed off again the thunder rolled. As I left the last buildings of the town behind the heavens opened. This rain stings! Spying a building with an overhang I bounced over the wasteland and got settled to wait out the rain. 

It's amazing how much water falls in such a short time. Standing under an overhang I was dry for about five minutes then the water built up on the ground and as the raindrops hit the ever wetter ground water started splashing back at me.
The road wasn't much different resembling a river with speedboats after about 10 minutes. Trucks and buses sent spray flying in front of then when they hit the mini rivers flowing across the road.

The thunder has to be heard to be believed! So loud! So angry! So powerful!

*Earlier and drier! On the way up*



​All in all I was stuck for about an hour. I was now under pressure because my camping option closed at 5 giving me an hour to get there. I set off under a blue sky but that changed soon to grey and more rain followed. Camping was suddenly less exciting. When I could see ahead all I could see was cloud. It was going to be a miserable night.

*The hills around here are from sand or rock. There are many, many sections along the road that are being dug out, presumably to make blocks or gravel and sand for building. Obviously, this means lots of sand, gravel and rocks on the road and after heavy rain the shoulder downhill (if it exists) is full of mud. Also, I've seen big diggers working in crazy positions at crazy heights. This rock formation caught my eye




*​Obviously I take far less photos in the rain. My camera is still suffering the consequences of rain a few weeks ago and my phone goes haywire if it gets wet. However, at different points on those last few kms when I could see the valley to my right I just had to risk it. Little puffs of cloud seemed to have been snagged in the steep valley walls. Beautiful!

*It's bizarre! This photo was taken in the rain! In front it's gloom and wet, to my right blue and dry! I was charmed by the clouds "caught" in the trees*



​The turnoff for the park I wanted to visit on Tuesday was before my IOverlander spot so I kept my eyes open for options before there.
I knew there was an AutoHotel ahead so I pulled in. Way too dear! I continued on and happened across a hotel/restaurant more in my price range. Soaked, I took a room, had a hot shower (yaaay!) and then into the restaurant for some fried rice. It's a Chinese place - lots of Chinese shops and restaurants here. The TV was on and the main story was all the damage the heavy rain is doing! They had a clip of a car sinking under the water and roads washed out. It's still raining as I write this.

And I wanted to camp again tomorrow!

It gets cold here at night so I took to my bed early. Still awake my bed started shaking for about 5 seconds. On the ground floor with no passing traffic (I could hear it all) there was only one explanation - Earthquake! It was over before I could react and there were no alarms. Of course not - I'm on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere!

It didn't stop me sleeping!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, June 22 2021, Near 150km marker to Chui Rax Amolo Ecological Park 6 km Total KM 1872

Min meters 2484, Max Meters 2638
Total Climb 926 Total Descent 768
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 26

Camping in the clouds!

I am quite literally sitting in the middle of a gently floating cloud writing this. It's blocking out some spectacular views but what a feeling! Tomorrow I can see the views, today my head (and the rest of me) is in the clouds!

With no external source of light I was a bit disoriented when I woke up this morning. When I went outside to bright, blazing sun in a blue sky and perfect white clouds floating by it was genuinely hard to believe that I was in the same place as yesterday!

I was in no rush so brewed up some coffee in my room (lots of natural ventilation) and slowly got organised.

*Even the smallest of villages here seem to suffer from traffic chaos, especially at junctions*



​I set off back the way I came to the turnoff a couple of hundred meters along and began to pass through a series of little villages all seemingly joined together.

I stopped off for some brekkie at a little roadside spot and did a bit of shopping. I'll be cooking for myself tonight. A half dozen eggs in a plastic bag will be fun to transport! Not as much fun as asking for them! "Huevos", eggs, can also refer to my sensitive parts and my pronunciation caused much confusion with the two ladies looking after me. I think it may be an accent thing, but there I was happily practising my "huevos" in a little shop until the laughing ladies gave me their approval!

Here's a piece of information not normally found in bike blogs; Cigarettes can be hard to find in Guatemala! Shop after shop either said no or sent me to each other, a kind of circular hell for nicotine addicts. Finally I found some!

There were some really steep sections (16 - 20%) on the road not helped by a drinks delivery truck that kept pulling in ahead of me and stopping. I'd stop behind it, panting and getting lungfuls of fumes!

*Ever higher and the sky is turning ominous!*



​The higher I got the more the blue sky disappeared to be replaced by dense, grey, sombre cloud.
After a massive 5km(!) I arrived at the park. A man at the gate was very welcoming and friendly - not in an over the top way, just a natural, genuine warmth. He wanted to know what time it was in Ireland!

*Right in front of where I set up camp. A little spooky, perhaps, but I was charmed*



​I'm supposed to be able to see the lake (Atitlán) from the gate but all I see is mist and fog. Actually, correct that - cloud. I am in the clouds! He got me a brochure to show me what I'm missing! We both had a good laugh at that.
There's a restaurant and store onsite, a little way down the road with a salon, a hall, that I can camp in. Further down there's a grill area that I can use too. Beyond that again is the official camping area. Basically, I'm welcome to choose where I want.

*On the way to my campsite, rough road, steep descent but through the cloud.....*​





I continued as far as the restaurant, more views denied me and decided to wait a while to see if the mist will burn off. Not a hope! The salon looks great for indoor camping but I continued down a rough track through mist, slipping and sliding until I found the grill area.
More views - denied!
But what a place! There's a tap for water, two pit toilets a little bit away and a jungle behind me to explore!
Feck the salon - I'm home!
Getting back up that hill with loose gravel, stones and wet sand will be fun! The smart thing would have been to stay in the salon.
I'll worry about tomorrow, tomorrow.

*Off wandering on foot in the forest. Only the birds chirping, tweeting and squawking at me - and the odd rustle in the bushes!*



​I parked the bike and set off into the mist once more. I encountered some dogs - more scared of me they ran off - and a couple of landslides. All I could hear was a variety of different birds no doubt calling out to me as is the Guatemalan way.

Up behind me is the end point of a zip line. The first person arrives and all I hear is the sound of the mechanism. Then the second person arrives to one cheering voice. The cheering grows in proportion to the number of zip liners. Lesson learned; Always be the last to do a zip line!
(The one group did the zip line twice - then nothing!)

The park closes at 5 or 6 and after that I'll have it all to myself. Sometimes I think I must be the luckiest b*****d in the world! 

I wandered around the forest for a while, a white, wispy sheen of mystery everywhere. The I returned to my book and the view.

*I don't know, maybe I should be disappointed that the cloud was blocking out so much, but when it did disperse a little I found the country to be enigmatic, mysterious and dripping atmosphere*​





In case anyone came to use the grills I waited until about 5 to put up my tent. As I was doing so two men came over for a chat. At first I thought they worked in the park but they were only visiting.
One of them put me on the phone to his daughter so she could practice her English. I spoke but heard nothing and when I handed the phone back to him I heard some very angry tones and a beep to say the call had ended. I said nothing when he pretended to end the call understanding the embarrassment of both parties.
They were intrigued with my setup wanting a demonstration of my Trangia too. All in all they stayed around for a very pleasant hour then wandered back up saying they had to leave at 6. A relaxed approach to time!

*My two visitors. The chap on the left had the irritated daughter, the chap on the right had visited Germany and Israel. It was only after that it dawned on me what an interesting combination of countries he visited! He also wanted to know about Ireland's Political system - Capitalism or Socialism. En Español!*



​The visit left me preparing my dinner in the twilight and eating in the dark. Not a problem. I was treated to a light show as lightning bounced around behind the clouds. No thunder, just eerie lightning. Fabulous!

Back a few years ago when the original incarnation of this adventure floundered on treacherous rocks I was devastated. It was a loss that I found hard to describe.
I mean, places like Charleston, Nashville, Austin could always be reached by plane and car. Let's face it, Texas is so big a car is probably the best way to see it! (Not to feel it, just to see it).
The loss I felt was for the intangibles. The unknowns.
The things I was going to miss that I didn't even know existed.

This afternoon a bit before four, I got to witness one of these intangibles, these unknowns.
For a little while the clouds started to break up and I watched shredded patches of cotton floating effortlessly upwards.
*The cloud dissipating and teasing me with what I was missing....*











​Below me shapes and colours started to take form until I could make out a large town on the shores of a great lake and hints of blue sky above.
There, in front of my eyes, Guatemala was revealing herself to me.

Guata-Feckin'-Mala!!

*Colours and shapes!*



​Then just as gently the scraps of cotton began to merge and everything was soon lost again behind a soft white wall.

Sometimes I wonder if I'm being smart doing this, especially now in these Pandemic times.

Then I have a day like this.

They say you won't know what you'll miss until it's gone, but sometimes we don't know what we might miss until we go out there and witness what there is to be missed!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Jun 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 23, 2021, Chui Rax Amolo Ecological Park to near Aldea Chajalajya 58 km Total KM 1930

Min meters 2296, Max Meters 2695
Total Climb 1053 Total Descent 1059
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 17




​I wonder what the Romans would have done in Guatemala? Fine roadbuilders, they built roads that rarely lost height once gained. That's not the case in Guatemala!

*Leaving my camping spot behind and facing into hike-a-bike fun! I gave serious thought to staying another day but even at an early hour the clouds were closing back in. I'd have another day of staring at white.*​





The wind was whispering to me as I was going to bed. There was no-one else for miles around so it had to be to me. I woke at some stage during the night and heard absolutely nothing. Not even the wind. Just … nothing. That doesn't happen often in this part of the world. I debated going out for a wander but it's cold in the mountains in the clouds at night. I snuggled down and slept some more.

At 5:30 my eyes popped open and I immediately threw on some clothes and went out. I was right! Today was the day for views! 




​I brewed a leisurely coffee and watched the colours of the dawn fade away. I was in no rush - I was locked in!



​I set off up the crazy hill, slipping and sliding the whole way. When I wasn't stopped to catch my breath, that is. Not once did I regret my camping spot.

Back at the restaurant I met my gatekeeper from yesterday. Great! I could get away early! I thanked him for his hospitality and complimented the park - it really is magical.

Before I left I climbed up to a Mayan altar and was surprised to find a man and woman tidying it up and a girl too. We had a little chat and I took in the view. 
This is regarded as a sacred place, as is the forest, a place where the Mayan people (or their descendents) hid from the authorities to save their lives. In some cases, more recently than we might think.
The simple altar, decorated with flowers, high on a hill put me in mind of the "Mass Rocks" in Ireland. Secret places, often in forests where people gathered and travelling priests said Mass at a time when such a thing was illegal. 

I had a descent back to the Pan American, stopping for a sandwich and coffee. Within spitting distance of the Pan American it started to rain! On with the coat and off I went.

Traffic was heavier than Sunday and with rain, cold and traffic it wasn't shaping up to be a good day. I could make it as long or as short as I wanted, though. To make things interesting I had percussion accompaniment! For the first time in who knows how many times packing up I had left my metal spork beside my flask and the two tapped against each other. At first it scared the bejaysus out of me until I figured out what it was. 






I passed my hotel from the other night and after a short climb I was soon flying down again. I passed the spot suggested on IOverlander and it looked very wet! 
Then the rain stopped and things started to look brighter.
I came to another chaotic Guatemalan town and the heavens opened!
There's two kinds of rain here. Rain and downpours. This was a downpour. I made a lunge for a comedor, the first one that had seats and a place to park the bike. Two young girls in charge. My (cold) chicken and (cold) rice won't win any prizes but I was out of the rain and some coffee warmed me up.
To pass the time I had a second cup and finally the rain let up.
It's really interesting to me how quickly the roads can develop little rivers when the rain falls and how quickly they disappear after the rain stops.

*Rain & Chaos! Another road joined the Pan American here and just added to the traffic.*



​While eating, a truck pulled up outside with an armed (pump action shotgun) guard beside the driver. Later I saw another couple of armed guards. Just when I was starting to feel a bit secure on the road.
Also, while eating a young fella, about 15 I'd say walked past, looked in and saluted me. I responded in kind so that the next moment he's standing beside me, hand out saying "Dinero" (money) and "Quetzals" (the local currency). No please, no chat, just a sullen stare. When I made it clear that I had nothing for him he sat down beside me and gave me a pretty intimidating stare. 
I've given quite a bit to people in these parts, usually buying something or at least after a chat. I haven't had this before.
After a few minutes he got up and left.

*Then the weather changed!*



​After the rain there's the sun! Really, I struggle to believe it's the same place at times! There were some ups and downs, some fantastic views and then a long 10km climb straight up! 
Despite the presence of a shoulder it wasn't very pleasant. The shoulder was regularly out of use and some of the traffic was obnoxious. I did a lot of swearing. In several languages. 
I passed one hotel but it looked a bit swanky and I was still going up. I'd rather not start off with a climb tomorrow.

*When the sun shines, or at least it's not raining, there's a quality to the landscape that I can't quite put my finger on. There's history and power, struggle and great beauty all around. And Volcanoes just keep reminding me that I'm in another world*



​After the top I passed another hotel and turned around. There's a town down the road but I'm starting to develop a dislike for Guatemalan towns. Crazy traffic and no decent plazas to sit and watch. Manic would be an apt description.

I checked in - no hot water so another cold shower and the Wifi is not working! Bah!!!!!

*No view like this either!*



​I want to get online to figure out where to next - Antigua or Guatemala city. One thing was made clear last night. My trusty Thermarest is knackered. The "bubble" is getting bigger and bigger, more like a pillow - but in the wrong place. I emailed Thermarest about it several weeks ago and have heard nada. Looks like I need a new sleeping pad. These are the last two big cities where I may be able to get one. To make it more interesting, I've just watched a news report from Antigua where a car was stuck in a pothole in heavy flooding. Some men helped the driver to push it out. The driver got out to inspect the damage and promptly disappeared up to his shoulders!
Oh to be back in the clouds!





​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jun 2021)

I had a bit of an incident today that resulted in the loss of my phone.

For anyone who knows me in the real world my WhatsApp isn't going to work any more and my Dutch number is out of action.
Facebook (Hobbes on Tour) is still good.

Normal service should be resuming shortly.


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, June 24, 2021, near Aldea Chajalajya to Antigua 61 km Total KM 1991

Min meters 1537, Max Meters 2518
Total Climb 388 Total Descent 1313
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

From Bah to Wow!

Bah!
I was grumpy last night going to bed.
When I'd arrived at the hotel I was quoted a rate of Q75 - cheap. When I went to pay I was charged Q100 - explained by the fact that I was checking in early. (Not a Love Hotel, but the same principle, it seems).
The ladies were nice and I figured I wouldn't do much better in town.
Then the cold shower.
Then no Wifi
Then a disappointing dinner in the restaurant - half the menu was unavailable.
Then no TV (I rarely watch tv but there was music playing from a speaker right over my door).
Then a plastic sheet on the matress (with just a light cover over it) to give me a slippy, slidy, crinkly and uncomfortable night's sleep.
No comparison to 24 hours ago!

*The locals in these parts are quite industrious. It seems that any land that can be used to grow crops is - no matter how difficult. It seems that most work is done by hand - often a family affair. At times there are clear demarcations between sections which leads me to believe that it's lots of individuals as opposed to a larger farmer.*



​I got up about 6:30 and set about making coffee.
Without Internet Google Maps can't search except for what is already saved. Searching for "Internet" or "cyber" brought up nothing. Then I used "coffee" (automatically saved when I downloaded the map) and lo and behold up popped a cyber cafe about 40km down the road!
Intermediate destination #1!

_*Little villages dot the landscape. At times far away, at others right beside the road. There's a tendency for them to merge together giving a long sequence of tyre exchanges, garages, shops and places to eat. *_



​I set off under blazing sunshine and blue skies. Mainly downhill with some climbing.
I'm not enjoying the cycling. I'm finding the traffic to be inconsiderate. Uncomfortably so.
Whereas before it was commonplace for traffic to overtake in the "fast" lane here they usually don't bother, or if they do someone behind undertakes them while overtaking me.
This sends me into the shoulder and that presents its own challenges; sand, gravel, rocks and tree branches not to mention excess water - is that a bit of water or a pothole filled with the stuff?
Similarly, blockages on the shoulder are not uncommon,whether rocks or vehicles. Taking the lane in plenty of time to get past, traffic from behind often waits until the last moment to avoid me. No need. Just inconsiderate. 
Add in the horn blowing and I can feel the stress mounting.
There's a large tendency here for people to use their horn with me. I rarely detect any malice, either a warning or support, but it's the tone, timing and frequency that bugs me.
It's not a gentle toot that says I'm coming up behind you it's a blast normally starting at about my rear wheel. The blast can continue or change into short rapid blasts.
I've no doubt it's meant as a friendly gesture but it does get irritating after a while and at times is bloody dangerous.
More than once the intensity of the horn, especially on a bend has sent me off the road.
In many ways it's just like the automobile version of people calling out to me or whistling as I cycle past.

*I have found my spiritual home! Any place that erects a statue to Cowboy Boots is my kind of place!*



​Several times yesterday and today I found myself pulling in to remind myself that I'm in Guatemala, that things are bound to be different and that this is what I wanted to experience. Unfortunately, in the back of my mind is the sinister voice reminding me that Guatemala is nowhere near the worst for traffic!

Breakfast was in the first town I came to - a fancier looking place than usual - chosen because it might have wifi. It didn't but it did have the best meal I've had in a while! I could sit and see and hear the craziness on the road. Feck it! I had that second cup of coffee!😀

I set off again in better form. The sun was shining, the temperature was high but a hefty wind was keeping me cool. I reminded myself more than once that I was in no rush and tried to focus on where I was rather than what was rushing up behind me. I had mixed success. I finally came to Chimaltenango and went to the cyber cafe. Or tried to. I missed it and had to loop around again (one way traffic on narrow streets). Stopped at a junction checking Google Maps not one but two people stopped to help me! What a pleasant place! I found the cyber cafe on the second pass.
There's a big camping store in Guatemala city and little one in Antigua. Then I had a look for accommodation and found an interesting place on AirBnB with a decent location. An enthusiastic response to my request about a secure place for Roccado.
Then tonight?
I had emailed Maya Pedal at the start of the week. It's an NGO that takes bikes from the US to repair and sell/donate to locals. They also design and build bike machines - pedal powered machines. They also host touring cyclists. Unfortunately, no response to my query.
I thought about staying put and experiencing a Guatemalan town - this one didn't seem too crazy. But then I saw an AirBnB at a bargain price right beside the only camping equipment store in Antigua.
Antigua is notoriously expensive but this seemed too good to pass up. 
So I didn't!
I made a reservation and set off. (On AirBnB a reservation isn't confirmed until the host confirms). I wasn't too worried, I'd already had a message that there was place for Roccado.

*Going through the town, away from the main road it was busy and chaotic, Guatemalan chaotic being different to Mexican chaotic. There's a hard edge to it here.*



​Leaving town I passed a lovely plaza (the first so far in Guatemala) and had pangs of regret. Then I turned off the Pan American and had a decent shoulder to myself. Lots of downs with some steep ups but the sun was out and it was dry!
Arrival into Antigua was straightforward until I hit cobbles! Damn!
I walked just to soak up the place.

*Oooooh! My first proper Plaza in ages!!! I felt really had leaving it behind!*




​Coming to Antigua was not a mistake!

Arriving into a new place first impressions count. It was dry, I was in no rush, I knew where I was going and traffic had slowed down - significantly so on the rough cobbles.

If you don't know, Antigua used to be the Capital of Guatemala but for some reason they got fed up of the earthquakes and relocated to what is now Guatemala City. Tsssss! Guatemalans must be weak - I haven't been put off by earthquakes yet! (That's sarcasm Willy!)
That makes it a very interesting place with ruins all over the place and an existence based on the fact that it is a ghost city.
Ironically, there are volcanoes everywhere - in case earthquakes aren't exciting enough!

*Indigenous clothing is very common amongst the women, rarely seen on the men. From behind, it can be very difficult to judge if a female is a women or a girl because of the clothing and the relatively short stature of the folk*



​I got to the hotel and the most pleasant young woman checked me in. I have a lovely room on the ground floor, iffy wifi, about two square meters of patio and hot water! Even better, there is a roof area where I can look over the city - ruins in each direction and in turn be overlooked by volcanoes!
It's rough and ready but a beautiful place in the heart of the city - the main Plaza is just around the corner!
And older gentleman was working up there, pruning plants in pots and moving a mattress for some reason. He made me very welcome and I helped him moving some things around, chatting away.
It may be a sin, but I'm very happy with myself and my Español! It really makes a difference - a big difference - to be able to communicate with people in their own language. It's far, far from perfect, but most people work with me and we get there.

*It's a good thing I'm still getting little thrills from seeing volcanoes! The rapidly changing sky can highlight them like here or shroud them in mystery!*



​I showered and wandered out. First stop was the camping store - only cheap Chinese mats. Not sure I can trust them. I'll wait for Guatemala city.
Then exploring!
Fabulous!





There's a calmness here (partly due to all the cobbles - even cars have to go slow and probably a shortage of tourists although they are around.
The Plaza is pretty, green and has lots of seats. Even a band! Stalls are set up around the perimeter, actually, tables with white cloths selling artesenal products. Some lovely stuff. I try to glance as I wander around - knowing I'm not going to buy anything I don't want to raise hopes but a beautiful chess set (a weakness of mine) caused me to stop. Straight away a young woman was in for the sale and wouldn't take no for an answer - in the nicest way! It is a small set

*Antigua - bringing the Wow! 
I didn't expect to like it and was very pleasantly surprised!*



​I wandered down to the main market as darkness was settling in. These places are always full of life but here I wasn't being called at or badgered.
In fact, thus far I've only been badgered gently, once, when on my way in to the centre on the bike I stopped to take a photo. Immediately a man was beside me offering a hostel with bike parking. When I declined explaining I had a place it was straight in to offering tours of the Volcanoes. I laughed, pointed to the bike and asked him if I hadn't experienced enough volcanoes! He had the good grace to smile and left me alone.

*The Cathedral from the Plaza at night. There's a band playing, people are dancing, kids are playing. Lovely.*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

Antigua

Antigua was a surprise in all the best ways.

*If you ever want to see what an earthquake can do......*



​It's a tourist town but, probably due to Covid it wasn't overwhelmed. Most tourists were Hispanics, the minority foreign and they were split between an older group and the backpacking crowd and they really only made themselves noticeable at night.

My first morning I brewed coffee up on the roof and watched the sun weave its magic on the volcanoes and then the town itself. As a start to the day it's pretty hard to beat.



​Then it was off to explore. Exploring is easy as the centre wasn't that big. Wandering hither and thither as opposed to racing everywhere. I opted not to look anything up, just discover.

*Dawn again......*​





My favourite place is the Plaza no matter the time of day. So much to see, to experience.

There's a large market in the town (like most towns) where everything is for sale - including alcohol for my stove.
Outside the market a young man, bathed in sweat was evangelising vigorously!
Most towns now have some kind of Evangelical church, I've seen some Protestant denominations (a surprise to me) but this was my first experience of a preacher in the flesh. Nobody was paying him any mind - except me. When he thought he had a convert and turned towards me I hotfooted it out of there!

In fact,since Oaxaca and especially Chiapas, more indigenous areas, there has been a change in the churches.
They tend to simpler, smaller, less ostentatious. Often a facade disguises a simple building with corrugated metal roof.
Catholicism has adapted in these parts merging the old ways with the imported faith. Chamula, near San Cristobal de las Casas is an example. Rituals involving candles, chickens and coca cola - the perfect blend of religion, sacrifice and commercialism.

*Still dawn! And yes, that's the moon! *



​The ruins in the city, though, are truly amazing.
You can see how these great buildings were constructed and also the sheer power of earthquakes





One former Monastery I visited had most of the church intact but the most amazing section of ruins and a museum in honour of Saint Germain Pedro, a Spaniard who arrived in these parts with not much more than an urge to help people.
He failed to qualify as a Priest, nearly went home but stayed, became a brother/monk and set about helping people, especially the sick.
Long dead, he apparently still has healing powers judging by the amount of crutches, braces and other bodily supports donated, with gratitude, in his honour. Walls are filled with plaques from people giving thanks for his intervention.
The poor man died relatively young of pneumonia and the museum proudly displays the gown he died in as well as the mattress cover of his deathbed. And his underwear to leave not a shred of dignity.

*I think they rebuilt this Monastery three times after earthquakes..... And then gave up!*​





It appears that his remains have been repackaged and moved as his status changed after death.
I left feeling quite sorry for the chap - after dedicating his adult life to helping people his afterlife receives no peace!

Street sellers are everywhere but rarely pushy. One woman, with the most wonderful soft and colourful blanket (I'd have loved it!) asked me point blank why I didn't buy it.
I explained I was traveling by bike and simply had no space. She considered this for a moment, nodded her head as if to say that was a sound reason, wished me a good journey and moved on. Another guy wasn't quite so calm. He was quite agitated that I wouldn't buy a very large whistle from him.
Then, I was amused to be approached by a guy with a collection of Disney characters, each one encased in a clear ball and attached to a lighted pole. These are for kids, or possibly a girlfriend, I thought, and since I'm all out of both I was a bit intrigued. I was disappointed, however, when the hearty call and start of the sales pitch was just a cover to offer drugs. At least he was discreet - in San Cristobal he'd just have called it out across the street.

*A single photo really doesn't do a scene justice here. The same building can have a very different impact depending on how you approach it.*



​The second day I took a spin on the bike. Oh, the freedom without the bags! I borrowed a route from RWGPS but kept hitting closed roads so just ended up wandering around.

International Cuisine is well represented in Antigua, even if I exclude the fast food chains. I had a huge Chinese one night and a pretty good (and hot) Indian another. I was interested to see a Belgian restaurant but doubted it's authenticity when I couldn't see mussels and chips on the menu. Then I saw the name; Congo Bongo!






I did have a sad moment in Antigua, though. I passed a Mexican restaurant and it took me half the block to realise that Mexican food is no longer standard!
I'm finding it hard to get a handle on Guatemalan cuisine - most of what I'm seeing is very US based. Therefore disappointing!

*Street art from my bike adventure*



​But as always, an abiding memory comes from a small Plaza in front of a church where a laughing little girl set the tone for the whole area. Out with her Papá, she was chasing pigeons, constantly running through a large pack on the ground and her laughs tinkled around in the warm air like music.
Other kids watched but lacked her confidence, rarely taking more than a single step.
On closer observation, I discovered that herself and Papá were working in tandem!
Papa had a bag of seed and was keeping the pigeons coming in so that she'd have lots to run through!

With all that Antigua had to offer that was my favourite scene.

*Yes! That volcano is smoking! The boring part of me did wonder what insurance is like in these parts - smoking volcanoes and a history of earthquakes!*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, June 27, 2021, Antigua to Ciudad de Guatemala 42 km Total KM 2033

Min meters 1525, Max Meters 2103
Total Climb 648 Total Descent 646
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 24

Leaving Antigua

I should have been disappointed, up at 5am, up to the roof with my coffee gear and a bit of breakfast all ready to savour the sun weaving its magic on the sky, the volcanoes and the town when Mother Nature decided to send in a load of low, grey cloud.
Still though, as mornings go it was like Antigua - calming.







A bit of calm wouldn't go amiss. I'm heading in to the Capital and I can expect a bit of stress. I'll take the calmness when I can.

*Morning in the Plaza*



​Not wishing to damage myself or the bike I walked the cobbles to the edge of town and the main road to Guate (as the locals call it). 
It's a dual carriageway, split, in the sense that the other side is somewhere else. And I have a reasonably decent shoulder all to myself!

*Not a bad road in all fairness!*



​I reckoned there was about a 15km climb, a plateau, then downhill to the city. Get the climb out if the way and the worst would be over. Off I went.

it didn't take long for the clouds to disperse and the sun to come out to play but I had plenty of shade from a variety of pine trees. My biggest issue was motorbikes - lots of them, racing up, engines loudly protesting and displaying little roadcraft. Other than that there was often silence, except for the birds - ever more exotic sounding.






Nearing the summit, Werner came up behind me on a road bike and we had a bit of a chat - not the easiest thing for me, loaded, going uphill. My Spanish must be worse than people have being letting on because he wrote about the encounter on Facebook getting all the major details wrong! Oh well!

Once over the peak the two sides merged again and the far side was chock a block! I pulled in for a coffee and since it was Sunday, a slice of cake and got chatting to some motorcyclists.




​Setting off again I was glad of a shoulder - traffic was pretty heavy. As always, the shoulder could not be relied on so it was an easy, slow descent never knowing what to expect. Heavy on the brakes.

*Sometimes I could snatch a view down below*



​Getting closer to the city things got hairier and I had the perfect example of the different driving styles between México and Guatemala, for better and worse.
In slow moving traffic a road joined mine with the optimistic traffic happily rolling over the shoulder to edge their way in, effectively blocking my way. A common occurrence in México. However, there, it is normal to get the hell out of the way, normally by pulling back or randomly by pulling out into the traffic.
Not here!
Studiously ignored I had to pull up in order to navigate around them. 
Thankfully, a red car saw my predicament, slowed to a crawl, threw on their hazard lights and signalled to me to take the lane. They sat behind me holding off the traffic. Once I was past the shoulder jumpers and back in the shoulder they pulled alongside, gave a toot and a wave and drove off.

*Taking the bike route!*​





I had two routes in Gizmo - one for a car and one for a bike. When things got really hairy and uncomfortable, I loaded up the bike route and within five minutes was wandering along a cycle path.
(I'm using Osmand now and usually the car routes are fine - and quicker to generate).

*There are relatively few Colonial era buildings. Most are new*



​Getting to the AirBnB was tricky because it's in a security area, behind gates manned by guards but I eventually rolled up to the most unwelcoming person I've ever met! 
I dropped my gear, had a quick shower and headed out - I was on a mission!




​My destination was a Sports store and the only Thermarest agent in Guatemala.
According to the Thermarest website they would deal with my problem. A WhatsApp chat from Antigua had me less optimistic.
Of course they wouldn't accept responsibility for something they hadn't sold. I had to contact Thermarest. 
But they're not replying!
Could the agent contact Thermarest?
They could try but an answer might be a month or two!
In any case I had a look at their stock of mats. 
I also had a look at tents! Had they had a light one I may well have bought one!

*In the centre, opposite a market. The congregation can walk out the door, walk across the road and choose from some of the most risqué lingerie yet!*




​Chores done I went for a walk.

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jul 2021)

Ciudad de Guatemala

Getting robbed at gunpoint can kind of influence your opinion of a place and I'm afraid that I'm not big enough to get over that.

I'm fine - no real harm done, lost a telephone and a small bit of cash. Also my (old) passport card and my ID for the ship - That's what I'll miss most! I've lost my proof that for a couple of weeks I was a sailor!
Oh and photos. Almost a full memory card's worth. They're all backed up on Google, though. 

*There are billboards up around town with the Guatemalan competitors for this year's Olympics*



​The Airbnb was a bitter disappointment. I've never felt more unwelcome. I had to ask for keys, getting keys to the house on the second day and one to my room on the second night. Certain "perks" like the use of a terrace and coffee never materialised. I was not impressed.

Visiting the shop/agent for Thermarest was frustrating. There was nothing they could offer without the sayso of Thermarest and they had no better way of contacting them than I did.

We agreed that I'd return on Monday, hopefully having had contact with Thermarest.
At this stage I didn't really care about a replacement, I wanted acknowledgement from Thermarest that their "system" of support was about as useful as my mat.

*A Brexit benefit? No longer supporting Guatemalan farmers?*​





Chores done I headed into the centre about 4km away. What an uninspiring walk!
Again and again I was reminded of the US. 
Pedestrians are an afterthought. Paths are there, alright, but disappear, don't join up and are just generally unpleasant.
There are vast commercial areas with no (apparent) living areas or shops and restaurants. 
And all the American brands are present when it comes to food. 

I had picked out the "Municipal Plaza" and was heading for that. I wasn't really surprised to find it was a carpark!
Since night was getting ready to fall I set off towards home.

However, I did come across a long, narrow park (actually a divider of a dual carriageway, the Park of the Americas, which had distinct sections for each country.
There seems to be a sense of belonging amongst the countries around here. México has started shipping vaccines to Guatemala, Colombia has just given 10 year status to millions of refugees fleeing Venezuela. Guatemala has a statue commerating the help México offered its citizens during its Civil War.

*The EU generally, and Austria specifically helping to develop lake Atitlán*​





On spec, near home I dropped into an electronics store to check out their phones. Mine has been acting up and this is probably the last main city for a while. 
I was quite pleased to find a mid year "Black Friday" promo giving a very good price on a newer model of my cheapy Chinese phone. My needs are specific - a dual sim (one for my Dutch card, one for a local one) and the ability to add a memory card. 
Not having money or cards on me I went home to do research. 

Monday morning I tried Thermarest again. Nothing. Nada. Zilch.
I decided to get my new phone, get back to the Airbnb and begin the setup over the good wifi, see if Thermarest replied and one way or another get a mat.

*The best part of the AirBnB! Day and night a stream of ants busy*



​I got the phone, had a bite to eat, went to the bank to get cash and headed home. A rain shower had me ducking under the arch of a closed business. (Either a lot of companies have shut down or a lot of places take Monday off). With nothing else to do I sat on the steps, took out my phone and started writing up my notes.
The rain eventually lightened so I hopped up, popped my phone in the pocket of the jacket and started to walk down the steps not really paying attention to the car that pulled up in front of me.
A young fella, about 15/16 hopped out and I greeted him with a cheerful "Hola!". 

Then he pointed a gun at me. 

I know I said "Oh" and I'm pretty sure I let out a (very unmanly) yelp. 
You know, you think you know what you might do in these situations but pfft! 
Unless you've practiced and practiced the mind goes blank.
Once he had my cooperation, indicated by my raising my hands, he lowered the gun, holding it against his crotch, invisible to anyone passing (nobody did). His hand went straight for where my phone had gone moments before and then he started to frisk me. Badly, not helped by my wearing a gore tex jacket from a man twice my size. (Thanks, Big Fella!)
He ignored my ciggies in my front right trousers pocket, failed to realise there was a pocket below that (with my wallet), never checked my ass (cards) and ignored my left side altogether (more cash).
Then he was climbing into the little metallic orange car and he was gone. 
I remember looking and thinking I should get the reg but my brain wasn't working.
On my back my scruffy Decathlon backpack with my Kindle, Mazi and my new phone!

*One particularly interesting church*​





I don't think he spoke a word. He didn't need to - the gun said it all. Silver, well used, automatic I had no desire to find out if it was fake or not.
Looking back, I think he was as scared as I was. I was bigger than him but he had a buddy behind the wheel.

There was nobody on the street because of the rain. It was about two pm. It's not a bad or dodgy street - the Indian Embassy is on it. I have done this hundreds of times in the past year and a bit - sit down somewhere, watch, write a few notes. It was totally unexpected.

I was fine heading back to the Airbnb. In fact, within five minutes I was inside a "security zone" where the entire neighborhood is behind gates manned by guards. In fact, I was even giggling a little that they got a phone that I was about to replace, missed the new one and the cash I was after withdrawing from the bank.

*Railway museum. I had to put my backpack in a locker but got a special dispensation to take Mazi along*



​I got home, fired up my tablet and set about all the boring stuff - erasing the phone, new passwords, cancelling WhatsApp etc while setting up the new one. A great advantage of having a second device.
In the middle of all this a response from Thermarest - they were going to contact someone in warranties. I asked them to be prompt.

A little later it dawned on me that I might want to leave on Tuesday, rather than Wednesday as planned. To do that I needed a sleeping mat. Back to the store.

It was only outside I felt suddenly uneasy. I resisted the urge to go back inside and followed busy streets to the store, bought another mat (I really didn't want to buy a Thermarest on principle but I had limited options) and headed for home.
Of course, without my phone (at home downloading all the old phone) I got a bit lost. I walked off the anxiety, forced myself to eat and found my way home.

*A rare picture of the world's laziest tiger in the driving seat!*



​Tuesday dawned and I awoke very conflicted - part of me wanted out of the city asap and part of me wanted to face down the anxiety.

I resisted the urge to run and took a wander back into the centre, along a more interesting route this time. After a while my anxiety morphed into anger. I was mad. Mad at what the little bastard had done. Not the phone, not the bit of cash. He took my confidence. Everyone was a threat now. I didn't like feeling that way.
I stopped for a coffee and had a good chat with myself. I told myself it was alright to be nervous. I had a feckin' gun pointed at me for God's sake. But.
But I've been gone for almost two years and the vast, vast majority of people have been nothing but good and kind. 
Then I got up and set off again remembering all the good things that have happened to me. 

*Bathroom signs!*



​To be honest, I didn't see very much! And I don't think I missed much! My phone pretty much stayed in my pocket as I wandered around. I got a case for it, a screen protector and an adapter to be able to transfer photos from my camera to my phone. This phone has a new type of socket. I couldn't get a SIM card without ID.
Ironically, after specifically looking for a phone to take two SIM cards I now don't have a single SIM!

*Downtown Guate*



​I did go to the Holocaust museum but it was closed. As were a couple of other museums but I wasn't bothered. Being out and about was the important thing.
I did visit a railway museum which was very interesting. 

I went home and got organised for an early departure. I've done my walkabout, faced the fear but I still can't wait to get out of Guate!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, June 30, 2021, Ciudad de Guatemala to Guastatoya 83 km Total KM 2116

Min meters 520, Max Meters 1548
Total Climb 775 Total Descent 1721
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 27

Getting the hell out of Guate!

I was up very early and both anxious to go yet a bit perturbed about actually getting out there!

*For reasons that don't need explaining I took practically no photos in the city. Mother Nature and the Touring Gods gave me lots of compensation though.*



​The first part of getting out of the city was straightforward enough, navigating back across the centre. Osmand did a good job and had me on the main roads for minimum amounts of time and threw in some very pleasant, quiet streets to enjoy. No photos though - for some reason I was nervous taking my new phone out!

*My first decent view of the countryside after leaving Guate behind. I could feel pressure in my chest just lifting and floating away. The city was one of the most difficult to actually get out of.*



​Getting back out the other side was the tricky part with flyovers, tunnels and inconsiderate traffic. Not having a specific destination in mind I took my time. Only one priority - get out of Guate with the minimum of stress.

Twice I ended up in the wrong side of the dual carriageway - blame 50/50 between Osmand and I.
Once, this involved climbing a monster, short hill in very heavy traffic with water and sand flowing downhill from roadworks higher up.
The second involved heading back towards the centre to find a spot to turn around.

*Tricky to get out..... But oh was it worth it!*​





I did stop for a coffee coming up to 8 am and watched the post 8am traffic towards the centre start to ease off.

Then it was pretty much out into the country and cheers when a shoulder appeared that actually seemed like it would stay. At about that time I started getting clear views of mountains and clouds ahead of me.

My trajectory was generally down with some short steep ascents. For a while I seemed to be travelling through the never ending village but soon the countryside took over and I was surrounded by mountains of all hues, vivid blue skies and perfect, virginal clouds. 

*What a place to live!*



​As always, there's not much relaxing on these roads. Rockfalls and trees appeared regularly on curves but I was getting back into my groove. A very late breakfast in a filling station gave me fuel for more.

*There were lots of quarries today but on rounding a bend this one took a while to settle down in my eyes*



​Crossing a river the wind nearly took me out and then I had a hairy climb (steep!) in heavy traffic without a shoulder. At the top back to normal.

It's humid here, altitude varying from 800 to 1000 meters. And hot. It's interesting how much the two combined take out of me. Dark skies and raindrops prompted me to shelter in a filling station but the rain held off. 

*It wasn't all blue skies, but the rain never really got beyond spitting at me*



​A little further down the road there was gridlock. I weaved through a couple of Kms of stalled traffic to be stopped just short of a village by a serious accident.

*I have no idea if the two are linked but this truck lost a wheel on the opposite dual carriageway to the accident.*



​Seeing some guys repaving a small and steep access road to the village a little ahead, I asked their permission to go up. No problem! They even pushed me up!

It was my plan to detour through the village and get back on the road. Distance from Guate was what I wanted.
But I stopped on the edge of the village for a cold coke and a farmer walked his few cows home for milking. 
I wasn't in the big city anymore!

*I can't possibly explain my thought process but when I saw these (scrawny) cows being driven for milking I knew this was my kind of place.*



​I had no urge to be on the main road when all that backlog could move again so I navigated to the Plaza - so pleasant - found a hotel & checked in!
A friendly little town - just what the doctor ordered!

*A Plaza! Bright, cheery and full of people!*



​Later, I discovered just how friendly. I'd tried to get a SIM card for my new phone in the city but they wanted ID. Since I didn't have it on me (and my trusty, out of date Passport Card is now gone) I couldn't proceed.
Spying a phone shop on my wanderings, I hopped in explaining, tourist, passing through, lost phone, new phone, need SIM card.
No problem!
Until activation! Then supply ID number. I offered to get it from the hotel but we weren't sure an Irish Passport would work.
No problem, a man standing there took out his ID and said "use mine". 
Small towns and the people in them! 

*Mis compañeros!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 01, 2021, Guastatoya to Teculután 51 km Total KM 2167

Min meters 185, Max Meters 595
Total Climb 527 Total Descent 797
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 36


Google doesn't know everything!

*Getting artistic with the portrait feature on the new phone. Mazi travels like that unless there's a headwind or we're motoring downhill - then he sits up!*




​I had airco and a fan last night! Bliss!
I woke up about 4, thought about getting up and getting ahead of the heat but I was sleeping well and hadn't the previous couple of nights so I rolled over for another deep sleep.

It was 10 am when I was leaving having breakfasted beside the Plaza and not a shred of guilt was felt! The sun was, though! Hot already! Climbing towards 30C. The day peaked at 46C and I felt every single degree!

*Guastatoya. A balm of a town, much needed, much appreciated



*​I joined the melee of traffic typical of any Guatemalan town, got caught out by the one way system so did a goodbye lap of the Plaza and then up, up, up to the main road.
As things turned out there were roadworks and a dodgy shoulder. That, with the backlog of traffic yesterday would have been hell!!

There was a bit of a climb from the get go so I was sweaty in no time. Then rolling, gently up, longer down. 
As always, the shoulder was challenging but today Mother Nature was putting on a show! 

*There's no editing here, the colours really are that vivid! This new phone seems to be better at picking up the colours - or maybe the old one had a dirty screen*​





I had no destination in mind, pretty confident that I'd find accommodation in the towns liberally sprinkled along the road. My priority was simple - somewhere friendly! 

I'm getting close to the Honduran border too, so need to start thinking about (another) Covid test and the logistics of getting that to the border before it expires.

*Feck the overhanging thumb - what a view!*



​At one stage my 4 lane dual carriageway simply ended to be replaced by a bumpy, broken two lanes! No warnings, no notices. Nada!
Thankfully it returned a few hundred meters later around a bend.

Later, the same thing happened at a bridge - 4 lanes but only one 2 lane bridge. No signs, nothing, just an instinctive move across on to the other carriageway. Mad Ted!

*The clouds here are magical! *



​I stopped at a McDonalds of all places for a big cold drink. They had a shaded area outside where I could sit and use the WiFi to look for possible Covid test locations. (I'd planned to do that in the city but things happened). Hmmm. It's looking trickier than I hoped.

Then the road dropped permanently back to two lanes and a long climb. I really felt it. The heat. The humidity. Gravity. And the real killer - the fumes! Some of the trucks don't move much faster than me so I'm in the pollution zone for quite a while.
Then the descent and then things levelled off. Gentle ups and downs but hot. And hot. 
I am very much amused at myself at how quickly I can forget the feeling!😊
Also, at the risk of coming across as a selfish, whiney child, what I would have given for some rain!😀. Although, the reality is that the road would have been far less manageable in the wet.






I decided enough was enough and pulled off at the next town. I found a hotel that was cheap with a lovely, friendly receptionist. I checked in, couldn't find my room, found it, had a cold shower and went off to explore.

I did some serious research on the Covid tests and it was looking like a return trip to the city!! Nooooooooooo! (A bus trip - I'd never manage the border in 72 hours otherwise).

*I can't imagine experiencing this the same way on a bus!*



​Back at the hotel I asked my friendly receptionist who called a confab of employees together and arrived at the consensus that a new hospital around the corner could do a test.






Sceptical, I wandered off in the dark to this shiny, new building, asked if it was possible to be told "of course".
Then there's the small matter of what type of test is acceptable at the border. When the chap discovered I was travelling by bike he became far less formal, checked on the Honduras Govt website and confirmed their Antigen test was available. Now! Or in the morning!
We decided on the morning so he helped me fill out the form so that things will go speedy in the morning. 

Small towns! 

*Another welcoming place I passed. For some reason I have an almost Pavlovian negative response to "San Cristobal"



*
​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 02, 2021, Teculután to Sábana Grande 56 km Total KM 2223

Min meters 184, Max Meters 515
Total Climb 656 Total Descent 425
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 36

From agony to ecstasy!

I was up and at the clinic for 7am. I was even expected! "Are you the man crossing the border on a bicycle?"
There was a lot of waiting, another strange exploration of my nose and finally the all important piece of paper!

It was already hot so I had breakfast at the hotel, packed up and left town.

Hot. Did I say it was hot?




​I'm now on a bit of a countdown - 72 hours to get across the border before my cert is invalid. I'd picked out a place on iOverlander where I can camp about 50km down the road. There's a junction there that will allow me choose my border crossing, leaving 60 or 80 km the next day. Only one problem - there's a perfect triangle in the gradient profile that I'll be hitting at the hottest part of the day.

*Mountains everywhere!*



​Getting out of town was straightforward, if tricky, a description that could be applied to the whole day.
Like an Irish summer I could never be sure if the shoulder existed, if it would stay or be overrun with various kinds of flotsam.

The first part was relatively flat and lush. I recall cycling along under a marvellous canopy of trees, the shade a cooling balm and the various scents stimulating all ruined when a battered truck rattled by hot air from its engine blasting me and manky, black fumes suffocating me.

*I am incredibly close to nature in these parts!*



​At one stage I crossed a wide, surging, brown river carrying all kinds of things along with it. Unusually, I had a bit of space to pull in, so I did. I'm getting used to a bit of vibration on bridges, but this was off the scale wobbly!! Terrifying! When a low loader went past carrying a huge Caterpillar digger I held my breath until it was off the bridge! Getting back on the bike was tricky simply because the bridge was shaking so much from the traffic!

*It's rare I get a chance to photograph a river because the bridges are deathtraps for cyclists - narrow, no shoulder, a high, narrow footpath and of course, all the crap swept up against it. 
Another example of Guatemala aping the U.S.*​





In the heat, any climbing had me sweating, then any descent was gloriously chilling. I was already drinking a lot and I hadn't even hit the main climb.

As the climb started I spotted a comedor and shop and pulled in thinking I might rest an hour or two and let the worst of the heat pass.

I pulled up and immediately began to have doubts as three, possibly four generations of females all called out to me encouraging me to sit down. The shop was first (and now that I could see it properly, was pretty empty) and the women were at a building behind it.
I'm a little bit ashamed to say that my first thought was that it could be a scene from Deliverance.
However, there was no way I could mistake the genuine warmth coming from every single one.
I was bade sit down, offered tortillas, asked about eggs, then onions, given cold water.
If I said these people were dirt poor it would be a literal description, not a commentary. The floor was dirt. The roof was mismatched strips, squares and rectangles of corrugated iron, patched and supported by logs, timber offcuts and string.
The beds were outside under the roof. There was nothing electrical that I could see, although I did spy an old meter hanging off a wall.
My food was prepared over an open fire in a room that filled with smoke.
A few chickens and young chicks pecked around and there seemed to be a handful of scrawny kittens, although no cat.
There seemed to be several generations of women present and two teenage boys.
The youngest, a little girl, I'd put at no more than three.
She had a toy and was playing quite creatively, I thought. Her sister and one brother helped her along.
Her toy? Dough.
Not "play dough", actual dough, the same stuff that was used for my tortillas.
It was rolled into a ball and used to make "fingerprints", then a mould for her elbow.
The real fun began when she started sticking her nose in it.
It was both incredibly interesting and incredibly sad.
I introduced her to Frida. They hit it off.

*Clouds!*



​We talked as I waited, then ate. Where was I from, where was I going. Family? Did I have a wife? Children? When I replied in the negative the comment was made that God was my companion. I couldn't argue with that. It would have been rude.
God features in everyday life here in a manner that is strange to me. He's as present as you and I. Growing up in Catholic Ireland I was told the same thing (normally in the way that God was watching everything I did) but I never felt it. It always seemed awkward, forced. Not here. People talk about it normally.

A man showed up, about my age, whom I took to be the little girl's father. He was friendly if a little hard to understand and wanted to try out his few words of English (most people do here).
He offered me "coca" and I couldn't be sure if it was cola or cocaine! I declined both! (It was cola!)
Then the little girl's actual father showed up leading a donkey loaded with sticks. People cook on fires and fires need firewood! Each stick was actually from a hefty branch, I'd say a diameter of about three inches, each the same length and each had been carefully chopped with a machete and stacked, self supporting on the donkey's back. That's a lot of work.
He was sixty if he was a day, throwing my grasp of the family hierarchy into confusion.
It's not unusual to see an older man with a younger woman. Perhaps in the smaller places options are limited, or more likely, the men go away to work and only return to settle down when they can support a family. Sometimes that can take a while.

*A lot of farming taking place, on a bigger scale than I have seen for a while. I even saw a tractor!*



​It was a very interesting experience, although at times I felt like an exhibit. I think they'd be appalled that I felt anything but welcome.
When the time came for me to leave it was made clear that absolutely no way would money be accepted.
This wasn't an Irish "Oh-Don't-Be-So-Silly-But-If-You-Really-Want-To-Leave-Something-On-The-Table-That'd-Be-Fine.
It was a Christian Open your door to the traveller. I risked grave insult by pushing the issue.
If I could have bottled the goodwill I felt leaving that little shack I'd be the wealthiest man on the planet.
Frida has a good home.

*This is a typical shoulder situation. It's below the level of the road which is great because I have it all for myself! However, at junctions it fills with crap, at bridges it disappears, it can be filled with sand, gravel, tree branches, dead animals or rocks. Then it's tricky to get back on to the road because of the height difference. Sometimes it just morphs into a rain gulley too!*​





Going up in the sun I was getting my ass kicked! A climbing lane was announced but with minimal road markings it was just a free for all. Not pleasant.
I laboured, I sweated, I swore, I walked after one close pass too many, then continued cycling again. I stopped in shade, I suffered in sun.

At last I made the summit and swiftly lost all the height. Oh, but the cool wind on my soaking body! It was bordering on sinful!!

After that descent it was uphill again, but more gentle. I reached Chiquimula and pulled in for a cold drink and a sandwich. Then through the madness of a Guatemalan town and out the other side.






I was heading for a hotel that allowed camping. The last mention of this place was over a year ago, I can't find any info online, I'm just trusting in a little community. I took a side road and passed a few hotels so I'd have back ups if the worst came to the worst.
I asked at a restaurant to be directed down a backroad by a very friendly man.
I arrived to a warm welcome, told to get myself organised then return and pay. They have a swimming pool!
A fiver to use the pool and camping's free in a field out the back.
Since there was some thunder and the pool closes at nine I asked about setting up under a roof when everyone is gone. No problem!

A shower and into the pool. Ecstasy!





In the pool, a young chap, eight years old, wasted no time in coming over to me to chat - in English! I was happy to oblige so long as he obliged me by letting me speak in Spanish. I met his mother and his sister. He had been born in Maryland but back in Guatemala six years. A confident, chirpy young fella.

Tomorrow with no medical tests I aim to be in the road as early as possible to beat the heat. More climbing tomorrow, but more in chunks rather than one big one.

*The sun going down. Just Los Dos Amigos again*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

Edited to correct day & date


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 03, 2021, Sábana Grande to Aldea El Brasilar 32 km Total KM 2255

Min meters 384, Max Meters 768
Total Climb 532 Total Descent 478
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 32

I don't know what I did to Montezuma!

Some of this may be graphic but is included to give the full picture of a long distance tour in foreign parts. Perhaps best not read at mealtimes!

My swim last night was luxurious! All days on the bike should finish in a warm pool! I felt like a king! A spoilt king!

Then it was just hanging around the pool until 9 when the pool closed so I could set up. I was tired. The heat is really taking it out of me.
About 8, a group of five young folk showed up and splashed around until 9 and when they saw my bike and me setting up one of the lads was straight over for a chat.

Then it was ablutions and bed. Returning from washing my teeth I paused by the pool and watched a few fireflies appear and disappear. I find them captivating and a pretty vivid reminder that I'm in a whole new world! It also helps that given the variety and potency of bugs in these parts the fireflies are pretty and harmless!
My new sleeping mat is quite comfortable despite being thinner than my old one. I read a few moments and dropped off.

About an hour later I was awake again! I have company - an armed guard - and his phone went off. Satisfied it wasn't my morning alarm I prepared to return to sleep.
But sleep wasn't coming. Instead, there was an unfortunately familiar pressure and pain in my bowels. Half asleep I tried to will it away but that wasn't happening. When I decided it was time to get up and head for the bathroom I reached for some clothing but the act of moving seemed to kick everything into gear. I threw on my shorts, skipped my top and shoes and struggled through the darkness pace quickening all the time while contorting my body into all kind of unusual positions trying to control the uncontrollable.

I didn't make it in time.

Thank whoever for having decent, flushing toilets and a supply of toilet paper.
There I was, naked, cleaning up after myself, washing my shorts and then having a shower all the time waiting for a man with a shotgun to come in. I've had better nights! (Yet so lucky! In other places I would have been in a right quandary!)

Once I was sure everything was out, that the bathrooms and showers were clean I went back to bed and slept surprisingly well.

*On a happier note this is what I would be travelling through later!*



​At 5am I didn't feel great but got up and started getting organised - slowly. I'd planned on coffee and a little food but that was impossible.
I had five trips to the bathroom before I left and set off with some trepidation.
I had two options and chose the shorter one with less climbing. It'll add a couple of days to Honduras but it's not like I'm in a rush!
60 odd km to the border which I had hoped to knock off early enough was looking doubtful.

But to go back at little bit….
Just before 5am as the sun was coming up I was treated to a totally different kind of dawn chorus. It wasn't chirping or singing, it was chattering, exotic and melodious in its own way. And dense! There are trees all around and every one sounded like it was full of birds. A wall of sound dawn chorus!

On the road my legs felt like jelly but my innards weren't too bad.
Back where I turned off last night was a big filling station. I went in thinking some food might be an idea but couldn't handle the thought. Instead I had a quick coffee and set off.
While having my coffee outside I noticed a large sign on the opposite side of the road welcoming people and announcing "We bless, pray for and love Israel" along with a Bible citation. What is it with Israel that inspires such advocacy from small town North Carolina to Guatemala?



​The edge of town was hectic then a calmness descended. I actually started to feel ok as I immediately started climbing.
Then, out of nowhere I hit traffic. Roadworks! An hour I had to wait chatting to the flag man. He'd ask me a question then ponder upon my reply. A few minutes later the next question.
The other side was allowed through first, then my side. Crazy! I pulled in and let everyone away.
The hour meant a jump of 5C but there was reasonable shade so I kept going. The advantage of the roadworks was that I had my side of the road to myself!
After about half an hour and hearing the sound of motorbikes coming up behind me (the advance party!) I pulled in to a shaded bus stop, bought a cold drink at a convenient tienda and waited out the next traffic rush.

*A pretty entrance opposite where I took a breather*



​The next stage was tough with gradients up to 14%, less shade and a really crappy surface. I struggled up and would have celebrated the top but I had no energy. Frustratingly, it was down the other side. On a really bad road surface.

*Crap road..... But the views!*



​It's probably my lack of energy but I don't think I'm doing any justice to the landscape. It was glorious! Everything seemed so close (unfortunately the trucks too!). It was rich, lush, fertile and in the times there was no traffic it smelled of life. Bushes, trees and various plants grow right to the edge of the road, sometimes in the road. It's hard not to feel immersed in the landscape when the landscape regularly brushes against me!
There's a river I've been following for a lot of yesterday and today so I guess that explains the life in the area.




​It was at this point that I decided to skip the border today. iOverlander had a possible camping spot half way along and I couldn't be sure there were any other options to stay until well after the border.
I pulled off to enter a small town on the hunt for a pharmacy. I had kept some tablets from my last episode in San Cristobal but I needed more. 

*It's hard to believe everything can be so green in such intense sunlight and heat - the rain has been confined to the night time*



​Job done I rejoined the main road and found the thermal pools I hoped to camp at.
Oooooh! The girl at reception was unsure, checked and seemed embarrassed to say that it would cost about 3 quid!
Again, I'll have a place to pitch under a roof.






First order of business was to check the bathrooms - not as nice as last night and lacking paper.
I stripped off and entered a pool - hot! Very hot! But good for the muscles.






I met a lovely family, the father being especially friendly, his eldest daughter friendly and curious too. Food, drink, whatever I wanted was mine. (Any other day I'd have eaten them out of house and home! Today? Not so much.
He loves to camp too (although he uses a boat) and was very interested in my Trangia when I brewed up a coffee later. When they were leaving he checked if I needed anything (I topped up my water) and all the family wished me safe travels.

*There's something about these lands...*



​The plan is to have a lazy day, conserve energy and head away early tomorrow to beat the heat. But who knows?

*In moments like this with an empty road I like to stop and take a moment to appreciate where I am. There's something about the way that the flora is on the verge of taking over the road that makes me think of jungle.*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, July 04, 2021, Aldea El Brasilar (Guatemala) to Copan Ruinas (Honduras) 29 km Total KM 2284

Min meters 417, Max Meters 842
Total Climb 665 Total Descent 467
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

Breaking Borders!

I had a lazy day yesterday, sitting in the shade after a good soak, chatting to people, mainly kids and teenagers who had seen the bike. Older folk were just as friendly with lots of smiles and nods. Something of a celebrity, I was!

I ate nothing except a couple of granola bars but drank regularly.

*Mystery every-feckin'-where!*



​If anything, the place seemed to get busier later so I moved from the pool area to my sheltered spot and set up the tent. Then had a very enjoyable read of my book sitting on a low wall.
All things considered, I was pretty happy and then there was a group roar from below me in the pools as the power went out. (Power cuts are always happening in this part of the world).
With the area plunged into darkness the sky came to life! In a rare occurrence, there seemed to be no clouds and the sky was filled with bright stars and planets. As night-time skies go it was pretty spectacular!
I had it for about five minutes and as two guys were busy dragging a generator out to use the lights suddenly came back and my sky disappeared.

Sunday morning I was planning to roll out when the gates opened at 6am. Of course, this is Latin America so it was about 6:30 when people showed up and about 7 when I was leaving, fuelled on coffee only. The good news was that my belly seemed to be settling down. There were no late night emergency runs to the bathroom!

The mornings in these parts really have to be experienced! Bored yet of reading about mountains and clouds? Well, I'm sure not bored of seeing them!

*I'm not particularly high, but there are clouds below me. I find that thrilling! *



​I was straight into a climb with my jelly legs. At least there was very little traffic and the road surface had picked up after the last town yesterday.
It was cloudier this morning than yesterday meaning that the temperature was less - but oh! was it humid! Even just packing up I was working up a sweat. Within minutes my top was soaking. Not sweaty - soaking like I'd pulled it out of a bucket of water and put it on.
It's probably worth putting down that the temperature reading on Gizmo often has little bearing on the effect of the temperature. A temperature of 35 can feel much, much hotter than 40 if humidity is heavy. In fact, I sometimes wonder if a higher temperature actually reduces humidity and is preferable?

When the gradient hit 12% I said enough and pushed the last bit to the top.
The other side with the wind on my wet clothes was heavenly!

*The sun is out and starting to burn!*



​I don't know where everyone was going but most of the traffic was against me, mainly pickups filled with people standing in the back. There were quite a few pedestrians too and people out working in the fields.

After the descent the road levelled off - well, what passes for level in these parts! Short, sharp climbs and just as short, sharp descents. I could manage ok but was feeling the effects of heat, humidity and a lack of food. A few Kms from the border I pulled in to a filling station for a cold drink and risked a hamburger. No such thing as a simple sandwich or quesadilla. Oh how I miss my Mexican food! I poked but ate little.

It didn't take too long to hit the last teeny tiny village of Guatemala and a bit of looking around to find out where to go. There's one building here, combining the immigration/emigration of both countries - how civilised!

I located the right building, went in and was promptly sent outside to the "Health centre" - four young women sitting at a table.
Bored, they checked my Covid test, stamped it then sent me to a shop across the road to get something done online. If that sounds vague, that's because it was!
I joined the queue in the shop (three people) and when my turn came it was all dealt with smoothly. Simply inputting my Passport data.
I paid the small fee having had a pleasant chat with the man doing this, then back to the office.
There was no-one in line so straight up to the Guatemalan counter to get stamped out - over before I knew it, then straight to the Honduras counter to get stamped in - a bit more complicated involving a photo and fingerprints.
I had to put the four fingers of my right hand onto a scanner. After this I got two thumbs up from the lady which I took to be a sign that it was a success. Actually, it was the signal to both both my thumbs on the scanner!
I had to pay US $3 (actually 4 because the woman said something about the quality of my notes - scammed!).
She took the time to explain to me that my 90 days started counting down the day I crossed into Guatemala and showed me on the passport where the last day in Central America is allowed - Guatemala never explained this when I entered - but I knew it already.
And I was done! New stamps in my passport! The whole process was quick, efficient and friendly. The Honduran lady used my first name all the time which I found friendly. Although my bike was outside I had no worries as the area was free of money changers and street sellers and there weren't many border crossers.
On my way out, a man from the Guatemalan tourist board was there with a tablet to ask me some questions which I was happy to answer.

Outside, I crossed back into Guatemala (there are no barriers) and changed my Quetzals for Lempiras.

Then I sat down to savour a new country!
Now, all the pressure was off, my dealings with officialdom done for another little while. There's always a little frisson of anxiety at these crossings, especially now with Covid complicating things. There's always the nagging doubt that some I won't be dotted or T crossed and I'll be fecked at a border crossing but so far my crossings have been painless and quite exciting, actually! I've no idea how many times I've crossed borders in Europe - no fun at all!

*Honduras!!! Country number 4! Great road, great shoulder, hardly any traffic and so green!*



​My destination for today, Copán Ruinas was only down the road (up the road to be accurate) and I'd booked a hostel last night simply because I had no idea what the crossing would be like and it was one less thing to worry about.

When I did set off again it was into a 12% climb for a km or so. That's no way to welcome a cyclist, Honduras!

*The road might be wider but Mother Nature is right beside me! With the damp humidity there is a real feeling of being touched by the environment, of being in it, rather than passing through*​





The road was great (except for one landslide) and best of all I had it pretty much to myself. There was hardly any traffic! Of the traffic, almost all gave toots or waves, one poor motorcyclist nearly coming a cropper as he tried to wave and steer one handed through a rockfall!

By now the sun was out so any mist and fog had burned off. The land looked tougher, rockier, harder to farm. Still lots of green though!






I paused regularly, sometimes to rest, sometimes to look and sometimes to remind myself I was in Honduras! Country number four!
At one such stop a rare car pulled up and reversed towards me.
"We don't get many Gringos down here", said a Gringo.
"I'm not a Gringo", I replied, "I'm Irish".
"It's almost the same", says he.
At least a woman passenger had the good grace to correct him!
"You're riding your bike, huh?" was his next contribution.

Now, I apologise to any US citizens reading this, but some of your countrymen and women can seriously damage your reputation! Back in San Cristobal de las Casas I had a conversation that ran like this…
"You sound like you have a bit of an Irish brogue",
"Well, I'm Irish"
"Me too! Where are you from?" (US accent)
"Eh, I'm Irish".
"You must have spent some time there to pick up the accent",
"I'm Irish - I grew up there"
Cue total confusion!
He was a nice, US chap, much older than me, had clearly smoked way too much dope and had problems linking pieces of information together. The idea that Ireland was a place that people actually lived in, as opposed to descended from, seemed to confuse him greatly.

Anyway, back to Honduras….






"Yep", says I, "started in Virginia and have made it to here".
"No way! You did not!"
I looked at him and nodded.
"Do you not think if I was making up a story I'd start somewhere sexier than Virginia?"
"But you didn't ride across the Atlantic!", he announced triumphantly.
"No, I took a ship - hence the start in Virginia".

After a bit more chit chat they left me in peace and I took my time before starting to climb again. It was steep, probably more sustained steep climbing than I've done in a while but I eventually made it to the top. Frustratingly, I got to lose all that height pretty much immediately! But at least it was fun!! The road was pretty good, the traffic light so I could really let go.
But then Mother Nature intervened with some views that had to be appreciated, not flown past. So familiar in terms of mountains and green, but yet different.






Since it was still early, around noon, I thought I'd bypass the hostel and cycle to the Plaza. Ha! Cobbles! Big, nasty ones. I turned around and checked in.
Copán Ruinas also has some ridiculously steep streets! Not fun for cycling!

Nothing good, at all, to say about the hostel.
I had a shower (cold and water came straight from a plastic pipe. A shower it was not!) and went out for a wander.

Then one of those things happened that is just bizarre! I met someone I knew! In Honduras!
Standing in a coffee shop in absolutely no rush I heard my name being called. "Frank, Frank!". (I think my anonymity is busted at this stage!)
That's not a common name in these parts!
I turned around and it was my young amigo from the swimming pool the other night!
He was delighted with himself for recognising me (I had a mask on, and clothes!) and we had a little chat, him in English, me in Spanish as is our way. His whole family were with him, beaming, congratulating me on making it to Honduras. What a small, small world! In Honduras a few hours and I meet someone I know!

Feckin' great!

*Honduras - drawing me in already!*









​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

Edited 'cos Dumbass listed the wrong destination


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jul 2021)

Copán Ruinas Part 1

(I wrote this out as one post but the ten photo limit doesn't do the place justice. I'm going to split it into three posts - sorry if it interrupts the narrative)

The really great thing about a long journey is that every now and then you come to a place and everything falls into place. A special place! Copan Ruinas is ine of those places.

Named for the local Mayan ruins I wasn't expecting too much given my underwhelming reaction to previous ones and my arrival at my hotel/hostel got off to the worst possible start with an unfriendly and disinterested check-in.
I don't need much but my room had a bed and a small unit that took my barbag and nothing else. No place to hang anything, nothing. 
One socket leaving me to choose a fan or charging.
The shared bathroom was ….. interesting and the shower was a plastic pipe out of a wall dispensing cold water. 
Worst of all, a big fuss was made about my bike and not in a good way - I had to leave it outside, in the street during daylight and could only bring it in at night.

So, on arrival I had a cold shower then went exploring. It's a wonderfully small, steep town so exploring doesn't take long.
I found a bank and got some local cash and a cheap, quiet but very friendly restaurant that made great food. I may be boring but I ate there three evenings in a row and enjoyed every single morsel.

Rain ended my explorations so back to the most miserable hotel/hostel, make some posts and bed.
The bed was horrible! A really cheap, springy mattress meant a fitful sleep.

Monday was a new day so I started optimistically. No, the hotel/hostel did not have drinking water (a first!) and no the kitchen was not available to use (as advertised). I hadn't had my coffee! This was serious! I discovered later they have a roof terrace but jackass receptionist couldn't be bothered telling me.

I set off to see the ruins but decided to walk along the river. Google Maps (when will I learn??) said it was ok. But it wasn't! But a lovely walk away from traffic, just me, the sound of the river some birds and the occasional encounter with a confused, machete wielding local. Once I realised Google was wrong I kept on walking anyway as it was so pleasant.

*A walk along the river. Water, birds and a few cows. Even after I knew I was going "wrong" I kept on going. It was so peaceful. I knew I had put my demons to bed when rounding a bend I was met with a teenager swinging a machete. My first instinct wasn't panic. *



​When I did get to the ruins they were closed - Monday! Even though the website says open every day! Ah, Latin America!

Slightly frustrated, I took my first ever tuk tuk to go to a bird sanctuary. Talk about bouncy!! Whoah! This is a whole different kind of travel.

*Macaw Mountain. Look it up online. Without the birds it's a beautiful place to visit. With the birds it's special. *



​I got out to the bird place in pouring rain and the very pleasant attendant explained that it wouldn't be safe to walk around in the rain. I could however, buy a wristband and return the next day. But I was planning to leave the next day!
I took a look around from where I was standing and decided that I wasn't going to be held to any makey uppy schedule and paid for my wristband. 

*What are you looking at?*​





Back in town I needed some coffee and saw a sign for a coffee garden - actually the third floor of a hotel with good views and friendly staff.
On leaving I booked a room for the next morning.

*The Plaza, the largest flat area in town! There was a coffee place down a side street with great cinnamon rolls. Every time I got one to have with a coffee it started raining soon after! 
An old man approached me on Sunday and after a brief chat hit me up "for a few pesos". I obliged and he snapped the money from my fingers and ran away. Later I saw him asleep on a footpath. Sunday is a big drinking (and possibly other stuff too) day. It's not unusual to see men, always men, sleeping it off. In the street.*​






I went back to my hostel and replaced the chain on Roccado.

*The view awaiting me when I moved hotel. I kicked myself after for not moving earlier*





*There may be less street art in these parts but I cannot fault the quality *







*The new phone has a "night" feature. The church didn't turn out too bad.*






*A preview of the view from atop the ruins. I had walked behind that the day before. The forest surrounding the ruins really added to their impact. The screeching of the birds too. The "old places" of the Mayans are regarded as sacred and I believe I could feel that here, similar to that park in Guatemala looking down on the lake. *






*A different view from my second hotel.*








*There's something so atmospheric about a ruin peeking out through the trees! This was my first view of the ruins. A "Wow" moment*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jul 2021)

Copán Ruinas Part 2

Tuesday was the day and I wasn't even supposed to be there!
I packed up having dragged my stuff from the cellar two floors down (I'd had a look and there were no more than two other rooms occupied. There was no need to put me down there except the jackassness of one unpleasant employee). 

*I got really thirsty after seeing this fella! And an urge to visit the Palace Bar on Fleet Street (Dublin).*



​I walked the bike to my new home, unloaded, (no problem storing the bike), had a warm shower and went back to the bird sanctuary.
It was feckin' fantastic!
Then I went to the ruins - bloody brilliant!
Then I went to a Mayan history museum, designed for kids - so perfect for me! Closed!
Oh well, two out of three ain't bad!

*There's always a view!*



​I thought I'd enjoy the kind of jungle walk the Bird Sanctuary offered but the birds were absolutely amazing!

*No cage! This one just swooped down to eat. They have feeding points at the café - simple but brilliant!*



​The Macaw is the largest of the parrot family and a bird steeped in the lore of the Mayans.
The Sanctuary is very, very explicit about the caging of the birds - even before you get there - and one girl explained it like this to me
"Imagine someone dropped on a desert island from their youth and left there for twenty years. Then they get rescued and put into a room with you. No manners, no socialisation. Are you going to enjoy that? Will they?"
Because that's the story of this place - started (elsewhere) by a woman who took over the care of birds from people who got fed up with them.
In one particularly noisy aviary there was a sign explaining that these birds had all suffered abuse. How did they display their damage?
Aggression, self harm, constant movement, eating problems. How very human!

*Even with no birds it is a beautiful place*



​Another area had birds loose, normally for picture posing on the arms or shoulders of visitors. Because of Covid no contact, so there are seats to sit with the birds around! My amiga offered to take my photo but I produced Mazi. That's when I got my personalised discussion on the birds.

*Who and what the hell are you????*



​There are birds loose too, flying through the forest, sometimes stopping to have a chat with their caged buddies.

*No words!*



​I witnessed feeding time and was actually quite close to the birds.

There is also a breeding program and I was able to see eggs being incubated artificially and chicks!

Most of the parrot type birds are monogamous and there were many many pairs nuzzling and grooming each other. I found it very sweet.

*The couple are smooching - the birds, not the humans!*



​There's a café on site with pictures of a particular green demon, Polly - a bird that can be playful and friendly but can snap and bite just as easily!

There are lots of bird varieties present but the king is the Macaw. The colours are just unbelievable.






Now off to the ruins!

*I christened this Macaw Alley (at the ruins). Wait long enough and a pair (always a pair) would fly screeching out of their tree and along the "alley". A view and a moment to savour.*






*A tree - outstanding in its field!*





​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jul 2021)

Copán Ruinas Part 3

I slipped through to the ruins without being hassled by a tour guide and was free to wander around myself. These are very much a work in progress in terms of restoration and all the more enjoyable for that. 

*I may have evaded the guides but I couldn't outwit two young lads! They had a range of headdresses for people to be photographed with the wings. When they saw me putting Mazi in they weren't going to lose their tip! Very funny lads and very pleasant too!*



​In a couple of places I got sidetracked by columns of ants hard at work! It really is so interesting to watch them.

What I particularly enjoyed were the trees! Planted in some of the buildings, then the city was abandoned and they just took over! I don't know what has happened to me in these parts but I never really appreciated trees before!
Given that a forest surrounds the ruins I found the whole site very atmospheric.

*Trees growing out of the ruins. It's my understanding that some of these were planted as part of the design*



​Signs are generally bilingual and I was impressed with myself for understanding the monolingual ones. 

*More ruins, more trees!*



​However, without a doubt the highpoint was the Macaws! Yes! They have released some at the ruins and they live there now flying around, a wave of bright, multicoloured light flowing through the green trees. It is truly an amazing sight! Impossible to capture by camera but a memory that will live a long, long time.
These birds were revered by the Mayans. The city is in ruins, the people are still around and now the birds are back! I found it thrilling! History brought to life in such a colourful way!

*Such a beautiful place!*







*This is where the rich people lived and died. No cemetery has been found but human remains have been found in what were the gardens in this "exclusive area". Puts a whole new meaning to "Can I play with Granny?"*







*The Ceiba tree - very special to the Mayans. This one was huuuuuge and planted atop a building - which we walk over!*








*Approaching ruins through the woods was so atmospheric! As silly as it sounds thoughts if exploration and discovery are not too far away *







*What a root!*






*This would have been the main square or Plaza. The hieroglyphic stairs is to the right. If you look closely you'll see individual statues with simple roofs. Elsewhere, plastic sheeting is used to protect stones, statues and altars until they can be restored properly.
At the entrance to the park is a sign commerating Japanese involvement in the research, restoration and support of the ruins.*





*The Heiroglyphic Stairs. Only relatively recently discovered, initially only the bottom 15 steps were dug up. Archaeologists found and pieced together the rest and rebuilt it. Apparently, it gives the history of the city and is incredibly useful. Not that long ago people could walk on it! Now, however, it is protected, even from the elements.*



​After my failure to get into the museum I set off in search of a coffee but the town was well into a power cut! So, taking my Trangia upstairs at the hotel I made my own as the rain poured down!

I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Copan. I found it relaxed and easygoing and the place hasn't sold its soul to the tourists - although that may be Covid. 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 07, 2021, Copan Ruinas to La Entrada 62 km Total KM 2346

Min meters 467, Max Meters 1002
Total Climb 1011 Total Descent 955
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 32

What a great feckin' day!

Nothing like a dawn coffee on the roof! I even had a little breakfast - a cold porridge mix from a single serving sachet. In comparison to my usual serving it wouldn't even rate as an appetiser!

I woke up this morning actually feeling good and well rested - the first morning like that in a while.
After my breakfast I packed up then gingerly walked down a steep, cobbled hill until I made contact with a proper road surface then I was off!

*Leaving Copan feeling good with a quiet road like this - perfect! *



​It was a great morning for it! Coolish, but of course, misty and cloudy the first 20km were flat - or at least what passes for flat in these parts! 
Yeah, it was up and down but not long so I could pretty much sit back, pedal and enjoy. Traffic was incredibly quiet which made it all the better!

*In this part of the world a cyclist can't relax too much! A few times today the road surface just disappeared and once, a good chunk of the road!*


A handful of villages were strung along the road, which itself was running through a river valley. Always something interesting around the next bend.

There was one big, big climb later but for now cycling in Honduras is pretty darn good! 

*Cycling through a river valley can be spectacular!*



​At the last village there was no open comedor so I went looking for some tortillas, a banana and water. No banana!
I set off again and within 5 minutes I had a banana - I actually had four if I wanted when a car slowed down, a woman's arm came out and offered me all with a beaming smile. 
It's better to be lucky than good! 
A little later I pulled in where there was some shade and ate peanut butter and banana tortillas. 
Eating on the side of the road is one of my favourite things to do cycle touring but I have lost the habit. 
In México the food was just so good and cheap that it just made more sense to buy something. Even when there weren't many places to buy food there weren't many places to stop and eat that were comfortable. Since Guatemala food quality and choice has dropped (although Honduras may buck that trend) so I may as well get back into the habit. So far, with a decent shoulder and regular (concrete) crash barriers Honduras is giving me options to stop and relax. 
It's a far cry from the great facilities often found in Europe with picnic tables and bins, but the views here compensate!






Then the sun comes out and makes everything even better!
It's a weird and complicated relationship I have with the sun these days.
When it makes an appearance I know its going to cook me! I know that I will rapidly become more uncomfortable. I know it will make me dizzy if I'm not careful and that depending on where it is in the sky relative to my direction it can make my travelling a little riskier.
But;
It also means that blue (my favourite colour) spreads out all around me, pale, at first, then richer, deeper and evermore vivid.
In a kind of Darwinian presentation the weakest, wispiest and flimsiest clouds slowly become extinct leaving only the proud and the strong, pure in their whiteness, defiant in their form.
The greens become greener, paradoxically more vivid and vibrant as I start to wilt.
The sun can mean heaven and hell simultaneously.

*Enter the Sun! *



​At about 8:30 I passed one option for calling it a day! It was another bath place where apparently I could camp according to iOverlander. Of course, at 8:30 am it wasn't even open! Even for me, stopping at 8:30 is a tad early.

I met Kevin under rather dubious circumstances when he pulled in ahead of me on his motorbike.
I approached cautiously (in all fairness I was going uphill so there really was no other way to approach) but as I got closer there was no mistaking that this was going to be a good encounter. He had a package of local, white cheese in his hand that he had just removed from his insulated box on the back of the bike.
Sure I couldn't take it - Gizmo was flipping between 46C in the sun and 40 in the shade. I couldn't eat it all in one go - it was about half a kilo! I explained my predicament and after protesting, clarifying that it was for free reluctantly he returned it to his cool box. In doing so, he spotted a bag of cream and the process started all over again!
It was genuinely fun! He wants to travel on his motorbike, an idea that I'm starting to warm to with all these hills!
Telling me that he'd have a cold juice for me when he was returning on the road he set off smiling and waving. 
There's a warmth here and it's not just the sun!

*Cycling here the landscape is full of variety and never dull*​






I struggled up the last big climb of the day, a climb made all the more pleasant by the outstanding scenery and quiet road. Then it was going to be pretty much all downhill so that I'll be finishing far lower than when I started. That's going to mean heat! 

Spotting a café just after the start of the drop I pulled in. I was feeling so good and enjoying myself so much that I looked ahead and considered a longer day. The reality is that there is no accommodation and all uphill, well over another 1000 meters. So that would be a no! Another coffee! Uh oh! Powercut! Nothing available!

*I can't escape the feeling that Nature is exceptionally close*​





There's a currency complication in Honduras. As well as getting my head around my third currency in three weeks, they don't use coins here - everything is paper money. This can mean I'm carrying a big wad of cash that will actually buy very little. I normally carry small money in a little soft bag in my pocket but with all the sweating the money gets damp and tears easily. People don't want torn money! It happened in Guatemala too, but it's more of an issue here. One way to look at it is that the weather is melting my cash!

*The bridges here can be too narrow to stop, but sometimes its worth the risk*​





With the exception of a couple of shortish steep climbs it was all downhill to La Entrada with the traffic picking up as I got closer to town.

*With the sun belting down I can't believe how green everything is*​





There's a big junction here and tomorrow I think I'll be on a busier road.
There's not much of a town away from the main road so I found a cheap hotel, checked in, had a shower and went for a quick wander - I needed a cold drink!

Later when I went out for food everything was closed! I got some sandwich stuff in a supermarket and had a lazy evening. The wifi became unusable as the evening wore on. 
A bit of an anti-climax after such a great day on the bike!

*Some days I'm just the luckiest fecker who ever threw his leg over a bike!*



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 08, 2021, La Entrada to Santa Rosa 47 km Total KM 2393

Min meters 481, Max Meters 1159
Total Climb 1379 Total Descent 591
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 44 Ave Temp 32

What a difference a day makes!

The hotel last night was cheap and rough'n'ready as was the guy who checked me in.
Despite his ruff'n'gruff facade he did me quite a favour by giving me a mini fan to stand at the end of my bed. I'd thought he'd done it because the roof fan was kaput. It wasn't! So I had two fans - not a bad thing at all!
To add to the paradox, there was a knock on my door from the type of man that you really don't want at your door in the dark! Swarthy, in soiled vest and pants he didn't make the greatest first impression on me but he had my tv remote which I had declined earlier. Presumably a shift change. Impressive service, though!

*Typical early morning view with low lying clouds. I think it's a great way to set the tone for a day exploring on a bike! *



​There was no comfortable place to brew up a morning coffee so I hit the road without figuring coolness would compensate for caffeine. The jury's out on that one!

By leaving early I also missed the worst of the traffic and soon left the long, busy town behind. Today was going to be all uphill, about 1100 meters and we got into it from the off, albeit gently.

*I am the world's worst when it comes to recognising flora, fauna and the kinds of things people travel all over to see. However, even I can recognise a banana tree when I see one! I'll admit to getting quite excited by this one! I'm cycling in a place where bananas grow on the side of the road!!
(I have already seen many of these trees, but this is the first one where I spotted the fruit!) *



​I passed two lads on their mountain bikes flying down past me. We saluted and that was all, or so I thought.
A couple of minutes later there was an Indian (native American) war-cry in my left ear as one caught up with me. He was clearly very excited as he was babbling away. I tried a couple of times to interrupt to ask him to slow down but Señor Babble wasn't for stopping.
Eventually I got to ask him to slow down a little but his friend showed up and they just babbled at rach other. This led to all kinds of manoeuvres as first one, then the other cycled beside me while the other rode ahead to take a photo. I know they were only being enthusiastic but I did not enjoy it. 
I wasn't sorry to see them peel off back down the hill.






The ascent was gentle, for the moment, it was relatively cool and the decent road was quite quiet but I found it harder to get enthused like I had been yesterday. It took me a while to figure out - litter.
For a few days I've been enjoying the feeling of Nature encroaching in on me. This morning, for a good while, it wasn't nature encroaching, it was plastic bottles, fast food containers and all that stuff casting an ugly glow over everything.

*Give me a bit of shade and a view like this and I can pass a lot of time just soaking up the detail. Without shade I'll turn into a dribbling, melting mess - I'll still stop, though! *



​For much of the day people walking along the shoulder was a common sight. There were quite a few "homes" along the road or back a bit in the trees. Bodged frames with plastic and tarpaulin walls and roofs would be a more accurate description.

It was 7:12 when the sun came out and the serious climbing began! A double whammy! 
I pulled in not long after at a shop to buy a banana. He didn't have any for sale but disappeared into his home and presented me with five! No charge! I bought a Coke and overpaid. 
Sitting in a chair in the shade of his shop I made my tortilla, peanut butter and banana wraps, washed down with an ice cold coke. I'm telling you, cold coke from a glass bottle is one of the highlights of this trip!
I got to watch his chickens wandering around and was highly entertained by a young one chasing a butterfly! A young chicken has a very funny running style!

*It may not be clear in the photo but that hill is cultivated! Incredibly steep, tended to by hand it must be incredibly physical labour - then take the climate into account! Lots of people are on the road, walking, or on motorbikes as they travel to tend to their fields. Everything they need, tools and water, carried with them.*



​I haven't mentioned butterflies but they have been constant since México. A variety of different shapes, sizes and especially colours they add a random distraction along the way. Buggers are impossible to photograph, though! 

Setting off again, it was uphill with some seriously steep sections. I walked some of the steeper parts but the views!!






At least there were more level sections that gave me a bit of a break but the heat was hitting 40C and it was slow, tough going. Spying a bus stop in the shade I pulled in and just sat and sipped. 
After about an hour a pickup dropped off a guy and we got to talking. My spidey senses were tingling. Eventually he said that I shouldn't be sitting here, that it was unsafe. Now, local knowledge is always a good thing but he wasn't from here, being from way past the Capital. He told me of a house I could stay at and my tingling increased. Looking around I saw a recently pulled up pickup sitting on the side of the road a little further along. I decided to move on. 
Things didn't add up. There was (now) a steady stream of traffic along the road so I deemed it safe. Crawling up a hill wasn't going to make me much less of a target than sitting where I was. 

In fairness, though, I was passed by a gas truck - transporting gas cylinders - and there amongst the rattling and banging cylinders was a guard with the ever present shotgun. Not in the cab - in the cargo. 

*Perhaps I'm getting more comfortable with the climbing (1300 meters today) or the temperatures, but I never felt under the slightest pressure at all. I stopped regularly and often not because it was sensible in the heat but also because it was far too pleasant to rush *



​I was cooking now! I reached a height of 875 meters and had a big drop! Great fun but so frustrating! I made a point of checking my altitude when the drop levelled off - 666 meters! Someone's messing with my head!
I knew I'd finish at about 1100 meters so at least now I knew what I had to do!

I wasn't feeling any pressure. I had lots of time to get to Santa Rosa, a town with a plaza! With about 10km to go I pulled into a comedor. Out of nowhere I was feeling ravenously hungry. Unable to quite understand everything (things I know have different names!) I ordered a soup by accident! I am not a fan of soups. Long story! Huge, tasty, with a chunk of meat on a bone that was almost impossible to eat with the supplied plastic spoon and lots and lots of veg - some I recognised, some I didn't it went down very well.

*My view at the comedor! *



​Then I met Daniel, full of enthusiasm about my journey. He kept saying what a great adventure! He'd lived in Florida for six years but seems to have put down roots here now - as he was talking a little girl obviously missing her Papá came over and wrapped herself around his leg. 
When he was leaving, with wife and two other kids, he called out to me that he was paying my bill! My automatic reaction was to argue, and I did but I gave up. There's a look that tells me I'm getting close to causing offence. 
It's quite difficult to describe the emotions that something like that stirs up. 

I was grinning when I left, at least until the next steep section. I was quite happy to take my time, granny gear up and wobble ever upwards. Then another motorcyclist slowed down for a chat. Going uphill combined with the noise of the engine was not conducive to conversation so he pulled in and I stopped beside him.
Every place has them, those that are a little odd. No bad intentions but they can make some of us feel uncomfortable. This was one of those. The conversation started off pretty much as normal with introductions, talk of destinations, time etc. Then he started telling me of his problem that he didn't have any worth. A difficult subject with a stranger on the side of the road at the best of times, throw in Spanish and the fact that I'm in the road and the traffic is passing pretty close and I was not at my best. I tried, but the conversation was too profound for my linguistic skills. "What was my worth?", I was asked.
I started to disentangle myself when I said that the conversation was beyond my abilities to be hit with a "You don't like me". 
Oh dear!
After explaining a couple of times that I wasn't comfortable in the traffic (he took the shoulder and I was in the road) I took advantage of a driver who beeped me to make my escape.

*The Plaza at Santa Rosa. The Tourist office is in the kiosko/bandstand. This beautiful, peaceful scene disguises the brutal cobbles and pitched narrow streets to get here!*



​Thankfully, Santa Rosa was within reach! I cycled in and when I went to turn towards the Plaza I took a double take - cobbles and a horrendous climb! No!
I doubled back, took a less direct but less steep route and bounced along to the plaza. Pretty! Yaaaaaay! It even had a tourist office! With no hotel and nothing on BookingDotCom for reference I thought I'd try. Finding accommodation is not their thing! 
Picking one at random I asked if it was good and cheap. Sí! Off I went! Not cheap! At least the man on reception told me of another. I went there and rang the bell. A woman came to a window, took one look at me and said no!
Talk about a blow to the ego!
Around the corner I found another within my budget. Checked in, parked the bike, had a shower, did some laundry and nearly fell asleep!
Then off out to explore! First stop some coffee!

*The side of the church looking onto the Plaza near sunset. I found a little café on the street, had a coffee (and my weakness - Tiramisu!), watched the world go gently by and felt completely at home.*​





One of the great things about this travelogue is that I write it up pretty much at the end of my day. On days like today I fall asleep with strong images of hospitality and friendship inspired by Daniel, the banana giving shopkeeper and the people like them.
It's a pretty good way to end the day.

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (11 Jul 2021)

Some odds'n'ends

Something a little different…..

Some days I can take 200 + photos and back in Oaxaca I know I took at least 320 in one day!
Every day there are photos excluded from these posts because there are other ones that should be seen. However, often the omitted ones tell a story in their own right. 

So, I've decided that every now and then I'll pick ten of those orphan photos and throw them up with some commentary in an attempt to "fill out" some of the detail of this little trip.

This first one is about rain and road architecture. 
The rain in these parts has to be felt to be appreciated! It can hit very hard and sting!
The sheer quantity that can fall and the incredibly short time it takes means that streets and roads have drainage systems that are beyond what I am used to.





This was just after crossing the border into Honduras and is a very neat example of a roadside drain. Also a bike trap! Honduras, so far, has a "neater", more consistent style of road design. Similar drains in Guatemala and México can be more ...... interesting 


Since I hit the mountains in southern Mexico, but especially in Guatemala and Honduras, mountain towns and villages can have some very interesting footpaths! This is not a place for the old, the infirm or the simply inattentive (me!) or those pushing babies in buggies! (It explains the almost exclusive use of baby pouches and slings).






Here's a handy hint if you ever get to travel again. Using my bank card here is not instantaneous. A withdrawal today may not show up for several days. A bit of a problem on a bike tour! 
On top of that, machines can be a bit weird. Taking a photo of the machine at the time it's used can be a helpful way of tracking bank activity in real time as Google gives me the location and the camera gives date and time. 





For example, this one acted funny and rejected my card near the end of the transaction. A few days later I saw that the (phantom) withdrawal had gone through. Ready to march into the next branch I had all the details I needed but the system had fixed itself.


It pays to be attentive and always expect something strange! On a descent, rounding a bend these scenes can be interesting! Water running across the road, mud as well. It's not just the effect on a loaded bike, but other traffic will be taking various forms of evasive action. Not in this scene, but it's not unusual to see oncoming traffic in my lane or for deeper water to result in a good splashing from the front or side.






I don't know what it is about bridges but in the US, Guatemala and now Honduras they are brutal to cycle on. Mexico was the exception!
In Honduras it's scary how many are missing barriers! Of course, a bridge tends to be at the lowest point of a road so accumulates a lot of crap. Given the fact that the bridge is typically narrower than the road that pushes a cyclist well into the danger zone. It's all well and good to say that I have a right to be in the road, it's a different matter with an ancient, heaving, huffing and puffing articulated truck bearing down on me. 
The worst part for me is that I usually have no safe place to pull in and take a photo - often these rivers, small and large, give great views along a valley.






Tremeloes!
What used to be Topes in México! 
These are my least favourite! In metal or hard plastic they can be very slippy when wet. Occasionally there are gaps where one or more have been smashed out of existence. Unfortunately, they are bolted to the ground and the bolts often remain ready to ambush a tyre!







While I've seen horses and cattle in work mode since southern México, since crossing into Honduras I've seen far more. While any decent sized town has shops selling fancy, decorated leather saddles (for tourists) the local saddle is a simpler affair, four pieces of wood and some material. The horses look thin and scrawny too. In fairness, most of the animals around here do. 





Dogs are commonplace here, but typically strays or chained up at a property.
Strays, so far, have been fearful and timid. They are clearly well used to receiving a beating. The may bark, but normally only when I've passed them. Going uphill if I wobble in their general direction it's enough to send them scurrying off 
A chase is rare, but does happen. 
The chained ones tend to look and behave more businesslike but on chains there is not much they can do except alert other dogs. 
However, the dogs are so laid back on the roads!





I've seen them napping in the hard shoulder with traffic flying by inches from their head. They meander across the road neither looking left nor right. Every single day I see the fresh results of their carelessness. 
Since crossing into Honduras there are far more cats too!


While roadside breakdowns are less common than in México they still occur. Occasionally I'll see a red warning triangle placed right behind the broken vehicle but more often than not something like this - vegetation plucked from the side of the road, bundled and dropped in two or three bunches as a warning and direction aid.





Ironically, to me, these lumps of plants are often placed at an appropriate distance (both sides) as opposed to the reflective triangles which tend to be right behind the stricken vehicle.
Even organised "work" on the road such as clearing a rockslide will use this technique 

Advertising is very interesting in these parts. From México and now into Honduras, billboards tend to use images of people that I don't see too many examples of! Not all the time, but certainly in what I would term "aspirational" advertising models are paler and more European in appearance. 






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 09, 2021, Santa Rosa to Gracias 49 km Total KM 2442
Min meters 484, Max Meters 1163
Total Climb 802 Total Descent 1098
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 33

Meeting a Narco!

Slow to get going and no place to brew up coffee I weaved my way out of town trying to avoid a suicide hill (down) and back on to the main road. I had to double back a few kms from yesterday to take a turn off and was banking on a café I'd spotted yesterday being open. It was! A breakfast and coffee!

*Heading out of the old town of Santa Rosa and looking over the (new) suburbs spreading out from the main road. These mountain towns can be pretty high and steep. The road down to the main road was so steep I chickened out and took a less precipitous one!*



​Taking advantage of wifi I logged into the Nicaraguan Government's website (how exotic!) to register my request to cross the border. A real PITA having to fill in the usual info, but also dates of border crossings and specific crossings. That really doesn't suit my style! My border crossing from Guatemala to Honduras was chosen the day before on the basis of least climbing. Also job information! Imagine a drop down list with every possible job title! In a foreign language! Not just "doctor" or "engineer" but discipline too!
To get to do all this I had to go through a captcha test (8 times!!!!). On a phone the pictures are tiny! And more evidence that my eyesight is fading! I'm getting old!

*This is right beside the road. While the road was pretty poor with a lot of potholes, it was also relatively light on traffic. To me, there's something inspiring about the variety of flora. Mixed in with the types of trees I can recognise and am familiar with are plants and leaves that are very other-worldly. A reminder, right beside me, that we're not in Kansas anymore!



*​Job finally done it was time to hit the road several hours behind my (notional) schedule. A car had just parked in front of Roccado hemming him in so I wasn't too impressed with Junior (for that was his name), the driver.

An error!
Junior was lovely! A cyclist who had also cycled Central America he was very, very enthusiastic. He's also a salesman for pharmacy products and before I knew it had received meds from his car for diarrhea and pain relief!
For once, the other person was in a rush away! We had a lovely chat, swapped Facebooks and once again an offer of assistance no matter where I am.
Honduras is proving to be a very warm place in every sense of the word!

*Rows of blue mountains! Am I ever going to get bored of these? If I do, someone (I'm looking at the Texans here!) shoot me!*



​Junior is flying to Miami next weekend for a Covid vaccine. He can visit his brother and sister in law at the same time. Then another weekend trip in a couple of weeks for the second dose. He travels for his work so needs it. I find it very interesting to see news coverage from Europe and the US about vaccination rates, "opening up" and the dropping of restrictions while the part of the world where I am is at a totally different stage. 

*But it's not all blue! The variety is fabulous! At my pace I have all the time in the world to notice.*



​On the road I took my turn and saw immediately that I was on a poorer road than yesterday. But traffic was light. Up and down, up and down and then a fairly long descent with some absolutely stunning views. Most of them were unphotographed because there was nowhere safe to stop or I was just having too much fun!

*Again, the variety of plant life, of landscape just draws me along. Not feeling pressure of time I can soak it all up. *



​Up a bit then more down. The rest of the day is all uphill and because of my lazy morning, lazy breakfast and long chat I'm hitting it at the worst time of the day! At least it's a relatively gentle gradient! As luck would have it a restaurant showed up at the start of the climb so I pulled in for a cold drink and coffee.

Eugenio came over to practice his (perfect) English. Himself and his wife are going to be buying bikes next week - apparently I'm a bit of an inspiration!1

A scenery photo or something more?

*These river valleys were and probably still are the lifeblood of the countryside around here. As well as passing through a few small towns there are more dotted around away from the road. Access seems to be on the kind of roads that bike Packers love! Life must be pretty tough around here.



*​Again, I was feeling very relaxed. This wasn't going to be the longest day, but my least favourite kind of day with the climbing last. Unfortunately, with far fewer barriers there were less places to stop, but the usually gentle gradient meant that I didn't have to stop too often.

Only rarely did I get a really good view, but when I did it really was a case of quality over quantity.

Passing through the village of Las Flores I spied some chicken on a grill - no peanut butter today!
Ah, words won't work to describe just how good this chicken was! Melt in my mouth tender, deliciously seasoned and with enough crispy bits for crunch. Served with homemade fried potatoes it was great cycling fuel. Leaving the little village I was keeping my eyes open for a place to stay so I could have a chicken dinner too!

*Photo taken in honour of (and to mark the location of!) a great chicken restaurant!



*​Getting close to Gracias I could see some steepish narrow streets so I stuck to the main road for the climbing then pulled into the town.

*I stayed on the main road around Gracias to avoid a monster hill then turned on to this! It's a small town, a little Plaza, unusually, located on one side as opposed to the centre. It has a couple of narrow streets running lengthways, cobbled, a couple running perpendicular and the rest like this!*



​I'd a bit of a decision to make. For a while I've been getting the odd twinge in my back that has increased the past few days. (The crap bed in Copan Ruinas may have made things worse). Today it became a bit of a problem, ironically not so much on the bike but off.
After my problems before I left I need to be careful with my back.
A bit of rest on a decent bed, or at least in a room where I can safely sleep on the floor (I tend not to mention my roomies which can have 4,6 or 8 legs and even cold blood!) won't do me any harm. I've some steep climbing coming up. I had a look around and found a quiet hotel above my normal budget and booked in for two nights. I may extend that.

*The photo may be a tad blurry (sweaty pocket) but this was the last river crossing before Gracias. On the other side, a couple had driven down to the rocky shore and were sitting in the water enjoying a picnic*
*



*​I'm really enjoying Honduras so a couple of days in a small Honduran town is not a bad thing at all!


*Sealing the deal! The hotel has a dog, Lucas, who is as disinterested as any dog I've come across - unless he thinks there may be food! The wifi password is "Don't feed the dog" in Spanish! 



*​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jul 2021)

Gracias

I'm a terrible tourist - and an even worse student!

*The view sitting outside my room in a simple but very friendly and pleasant hotel. Can you blame me for doing feck all?*



​Gracias was a very important town in Colonial times. Today, it's small, underdeveloped and very pleasant. It has one of the oldest churches in Honduras, the original centre of (Colonial) justice in Central America and a fort dating from Independence. 

*One of the oldest churches in Honduras*



​Steep, narrow streets get even narrower when the street traders set up with their produce. Others are just rock and mud. Walking can be treacherous! A loaded bike? Walk!

*One of the few junctions where both streets are cobbled. Some are just mud and rocks*



​My hotel was delightful and quiet. Other than adjust the bike brakes I did very little. I stretched, did some exercises for my back that have been neglected on the road. There was an improvement, but not a cure.

*A part of a footpath! If we ignore the fact that we have to hop up or down it's delightful! *​





I took up Duolingo again. My 400 + day streak reduced to zero!
I realised what else I had lost with my phone - a load of voice recordings. My Spanish vocabulary, a load of Hispanic music and some voice memos I've made in particular places when typing just wasn't good enough!

*A view of the town from the fort, built after Independence when there was a lot of conflict and tension between Liberals and Conservatives! *



​I rested, relaxed and felt not a shred of guilt!







*Instead of "Plaza" they tend to have a "Parque". This one was very colourful*






*A lot of the trees here accumulate a kind of moss*






*Bandstand in the park*





*This building used to be the centre of justice for indigenous people in all of Central America*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, July 13, 2021, Gracias to San Juan 35 km Total KM 2477
Min meters 745, Max Meters 1347
Total Climb 951 Total Descent 551
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 27

Gracias, Gracias

Pushing through town I got a lot of stares. A lot of smiles, but a lot of stares. Fire off a bright and cheery "Buenas" and it'll be returned. The stares remain, but the eyes are warmer. 

*Outside of Gracias and heading up. There's no way to tell from the sky what is going to happen





*​By my reckoning I had a bit of a flat section and then uphill almost until the end of the day. Now, I'm not the best at directions, reading maps or interpreting gradients on Gizmo but Honduras doesn't seem to like being broken down into a series of climbs and descents and she rebels, throwing all kinds of gradients at me. I can respect that, especially when I sweep out of Gracias accumulating more stares and calls. 
Thank the Touring Gods there were no bystanders when the road rose ahead of me and my sweeping was reduced to a crawl.

*Fifteen minutes later, more blue. Still can't predict the weather though.



*​I breezed through a Police checkpoint and stopped when an old US school bus labouring in front of me was belching black smoke all over me. Then off again into the mountain air.
Here, like Guatemala, these buses are used as public transport, but in their original state and colours, often with the school district still painted on the bus.

I had been late leaving the hotel, or at least later than I wanted. The hotel included breakfast and since I enjoyed my own coffee before the restaurant opened I thought "what the hell". 
Now I was scanning the scrambled sky looking to interpret the weather. Bits of blue scattered amongst the clouds meant warm, not hot. At least for now. I settled down to climbing.

*Fifteen minutes later even more blue!



*​This road had few guardrails or walls to stop, but it also had very little traffic. Very little. 
The birds! They chatted about me, called out to me and I'm sure some of them were mocking me. I can't see them, but they sound wonderful. 
The traffic that did pass was predominantly friendly - very friendly - Mexican friendly. A toot isn't just a toot - it's normally accompanied by a wound down window and wave. There's a bit of effort in it. 

*I'm really developing a taste for painted ads.



*​So that's how my morning progressed - slowly ascending in a warm, friendly place. I was getting the steepest section out of the way first. When the road levelled off I pulled into a shop that had a rickety bench in front of it and a Police pick up beside it.

I bought a cold drink and a bottle of water to top up my supply from a very cheerful and smiley girl. To add the two amounts she needed a calculator - very common in these parts, although a phone is usually used. 
As I sat and rested the Police came over and I was interrogated - in a friendly way. One guy was particularly curious about my gear so I explained what was in each pannier and invited him to lift the bike. They all did! Apparently, I am "The Man"!
I've read somewhere that a major purge was carried out on the Police to curb corruption and that a lot of the Police are young. That tallied with the four today. Fist bumps and wishes for a good journey when they left. They passed me on the road twice, each time horns and waves.

*Right beside the road. I can reach out and touch.



*​I got rolling again and was soon climbing again, although not as steep as earlier. Sun out, I was heating up but in no rush whatsoever. There are views that deserve to be remembered, villages where people smile and wave and dogs that rarely do much more than look at me. There are also crabs! I couldn't believe my eyes when I spotted one at the side of the road - as familiar to me as if I was on a European beach. Except I'm in the Honduran highlands and he's on the road!

*Why would I want to rush through this?



*​Spotting a shop on one side of the road and a lean to offering shade on my side I pulled over for another cold drink. There's something about a cold drink that is just so good. Spotting a small pack of my favourite cookies I treated myself. A group of 10 kids eyed me up curiously while I was in the shop and by the time I left had gathered on the steps below the shop. There'd be no shade for me! I sat down beside them. 
The youngest was a little girl, no more than three who had just lost her baby teeth, the eldest about 8, two girls, the rest boys. They just looked at me. So I looked back at them. 
I broke the ice. "Do you have any questions?". A trickle started, then the dam broke!
About me, the bike, the gear, the journey. The thing with kids is you never know what they're going to ask! 
The youngest girl was pulling at the hairbands on my handlebars and asked about them. I explained they were for my brakes and went to explain how I used them. Once she realised they weren't for hair or for playing with she just tuned out!
I passed the cookies around and never saw them again! 
Two women up in the shop joined in. The idea that I was going to San Juan (not far away now) was ok, the idea of tomorrow going to La Esperanza was shocking - despite me explaining about travelling from Virginia. Too far they thought! 
It was a very pleasant half hour or so. 

*Passing through a little village.



*​Back on the bike I crossed a pretty, stoney river and started the last climb of the day. A guy in a pickup stopped for a chat. If I'd been concentrating more on what he was doing rather than my Spanish I'd have noticed that he was busy covering things in the bed of his pickup with a tarp! 
Then it rained, albeit lightly. I decided I didn't need my rain jacket and I didn't for a while - but then I did! It wasn't long on when the rain stopped and I hit the top in bright sunshine! Spotting a wall I pulled up, spread the jacket to dry and walked down to a shop then back for a roadside picnic. In the sun, a descent ahead of me, it felt good!

*Because the road was so quiet I pulled up on this bridge to enjoy the water bubbling away below me.



*​Everything changes here so quickly and I got a fright back on the bike when I rounded a bend to a cloud so big, so dark, so angry that it was almost purple. I flew down the hill to the small town of San Juan. I found a new, cheap hotel, had a shower and went off to explore. It has a small park, pretty, a simple but bright church and not a lot else.

*The park in San Juan. Small, but quirky. The wibbly wobbly staircase is a bandstand.



*​I returned to the hotel and a good friend has sent me a concert that I fell asleep while downloading. The rain woke me up - ferocious unlike earlier. I waited for it to stop then grabbed a bite. Early night for me!

*Artwork outside a store in San Juan. The shopkeeper stepped away so as not to interfere with the shot. I couldn't see an artist's name - unusual.




*​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 14, 2021, San Juan to La Esperanza 47 km Total KM 2524
Min meters 1060, Max Meters 1933
Total Climb 1349 Total Descent 873
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 28

To the highest town in Honduras!

I should have realised last night when I saw a plaque in the road commemorating the new road between Gracias and San Juan that maybe that was a sign of things to come! There was a serious degradation of quality today but truth be told it made little difference as traffic was light and I was mostly ascending.

*A particularly poor section of road but an indication of what I can face around any bend. Traffic weaves all over the place which I have decided is fun! *



​These Honduran towns lack a little of the chaos of their Mexican counterparts. It's there, but more muted or less expressive. Perhaps I'm a bad cycle tourist but I do enjoy sweeping down and out of these little towns. Men look enviously at me, the women lustfully (or at least that's how I interpret it). Much more preferable to huffing and puffing up and out of these towns!

*On the way out of town. If this were México there would be a riot of noise, delicious aromas and just a much higher level of activity.*



​I'd about 10km to go then up. After that a drop, then up again - 500 meters up. At that stage the worst would be over, although one final "bump" could be the end of me! It's less than 50km all told, but 1300 meters of climbing.

I was going to skip coffee this morning but didn't. I even forced a little oatmeal down. Maybe not a great idea as my belly started to feel unwell. Again.

*Getting into an early, gentle climb. Mildly threatening (but cooling) clouds, trees, cliffs and the ever present mountains were my day.*



​This wasn't a spectacular day's riding by any stretch but it was pleasant, interesting and friendly.
There was a familiarity to the landscape with lots of pine trees but the occasional banana tree or something as exotic mixed in meant I was never bored. In areas of "local" flora the birds were active and loud, in the pine areas much less so.
The variable road quality made for interesting manoeuvres, mine and others. Traffic on the wrong side of the road avoiding potholes could liven up any bend!

*With light traffic I can safely pull up at a few more bridges. I passed quite a while here alternating between waving at passing traffic and admiring the sun on the trees. *




​Several times cars stopped to see if I was ok, needed anything and one man (with wife and baby in the cab of his pickup) was quite insistent on me throwing everything into the back of his truck for a lift! Probably one of the friendlist days on the road.

*Never boring though! There is always something interesting around a bend. This little stream was making beautiful noise rushing down over rocks. *



​I stopped to rest and water up before the big climb. My belly was at me and the thought of food was not pleasant. Not the best way to be facing into a big climb.
In fairness, the gradients weren't too steep and I made steady progress rewarding myself with a pause half way up.
Like Guatemala, a lot of the land is used to quarry ingredients for blocks. There was evidence of quarries all around, some places that made blocks and even on a couple of occasions men hacking away with iron bars on the side of the road. Tough work!
The only vehicle nearby was a motorbike which did make me wonder. Were they working for themselves or for someone who would drive up later for a pile of rock? Just how organised (and safe was this? After all they were hacking away at a cliff on the side of the road.

*I wasn't feeling great, the sun was out and cooking me but the colours are real but to me, this road is just calling out to be explored!*



​The sun was out and hot, although there was a lot of cloud movement. Natural shade (tree or cliff) was limited and rare but sometimes a cloud over the sun was a beautiful relief! I could be stopped, straddling the bike enjoying the drop in temperature and see the sun chasing the shadow towards me.
Drinking was complicated; when I raised the bottle to my lips my throat was chanting "Guzzle! Guzzle! Guzzle!", but my belly was growling ominously "Go ahead and try!" Sipping a little and often was the compromise.
While my belly never erupted in outright cramp it definitely generated discomfort.

The second half of the climb I broke into two halves and then it was over. I had a flat section, a "hump" and then downhill to La Esperanza - the highest town in Honduras!

*The sun does do wonderful things to the landscape!*



​It felt good to be going along on a "flat" road but now my belly was really uncomfortable. I didn't know if it was the lack of food or something else but decided some fuel was needed. I pulled in to a little store for some bread and something cold to drink. Yucky bread with peanut butter didn't kill me so I continued on through the village of Yamaranguila. Not far now, one last climb...... but the sky! Like yesterday it was looking unnaturally angry. Spotting a covered bus stop I pulled up just before the rain started. I decided to wait it out.

*A kerb on my side, shade on the other so I sat in the rain gulley. A car and a pickup stopped to check on me. *



​D'aniel was sitting beside me and offered me an energy drink, clarifying that it was a gift. I declined, graciously. I've never had an energy drink (unless we count coffee or coke) and I didn't want to introduce new things to a sensitive belly.
D'aniel was excellent company and we chatted through the rain showers. From a different part of Honduras down here to train the guys in a new filling station across the road he wasn't offended when I said that I miss Mexican food. He didn't like the food around here either!
After an hour it was getting on and D'aniel was getting worried for me. With some unfounded confidence I pointed to a patch of blue amongst all the clouds and said "watch". Sure enough, it got bigger and bigger so I could set off again.

*The shadows of the clouds are clearly visible. On the road they were so pleasant. It amazes me the effect they can have.*



​The hump was tough on the way up, a delight on the way down. The rain had disguised some of the potholes but that didn't bother the local traffic. An oncoming pickup who I assume wasn't local hit a deep one at a decent speed sending a spray of water right across the road and making an almighty din as everything in the truck took flight!

La Esperanza is actually the merging of two towns with very narrow streets. I skipped looking for a hotel because I was on a mission to find a hostel that allowed camping. Located, checked in, I went off looking for eggs for dinner (I had a craving) but no joy. Instead it was a simple, sad meal of noodles. Then an early night. I do love sleeping in my tent!





​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 15, 2021, La Esperanza to Jesus de Otoro 40 km Total KM 2564
Min meters 595, Max Meters 1866
Total Climb 258 Total Descent 1325
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 31

Being kind to myself

Something ate me alive last night. This morning from ankle to thigh on both legs I was covered in red, angry bites. 
There were no midnight emergency runs to the bathroom though! Just as well because they were a long way from the tent and somewhere along the line I've lost my headtorch. I'm really peeed off with myself. I've had it for years and now I don't with no idea when, or how, I lost it.

I'd woken up twice during the night, once about 12:30 for gunshots and once about 4, possibly as I was being devoured! As a result I overslept, waking about 6am to bright sunlight! Uh oh! That's early!

*This was my road out of town! A few young lads ran beside me asking where was I going . They laughed when I said Argentina - then I hit a roadblock and understood their laughter! A detour through the centre had me caught in the market street! I thought I was never going to get out!*



​Slow, sluggish and frankly bemused by the state of my legs I got up and organised. At least the hostel had a big, big, pot of strong coffee that perked me up. I had an interesting chat with a guy from Ecuador, a digital nomad. A graphic designer by trade, he's been travelling for quite a while. 
By rights I should have made my excuses and left but it was an interesting conversation so I just had some more coffee.

*Very healthy, green looking land.*



​It was about 9am when I was leaving, very late by my standards but today was a tricky day. The next big town us about 70km away but there's a straight 800 meter climb right before it. Unless I left in the middle of the night I'm going to be doing that climb in the full heat of the day.
Osmand shows a campsite at the last small town before the climb. That might suit me better.

*Pine trees might be very familiar to me but I just love what's mixed in between them! *



​Off I went, fueled on coffee and a raisin bread thingy that I bought yesterday While still not 100%, the belly was behaving. You wouldn't think it, but getting out of town was tough! First, a backroad was blocked, then I hit a street market! Eventually, I got onto the road I wanted and set off into a climb. I'd go up a bit and then I'd have a long, long drop. 

Even though the sun had been out for quite a while, it didn't feel particularly warm. At least not when I wasn't working hard. Most of the land I passed was being used for agriculture. I saw cattle and horses today in fine fettle, looking healthier than their Guatemalan or Mexican cousins.

*When there were fewer trees there was farmland. Pasture looked decent and animals were the healthiest I have seen since Texas.*



​I arrived at a lake just before the descent that had some food places and decided that now might be the time for some simple food. I pulled in and had a surprisingly enjoyable breakfast looking over the lake. I became quite cold eating breakfast.

Setting off again I was ready for a long, fast, thrilling, sweeping descent. Ha! Dumbass! I was cold too despite Gizmo reading mid twenties.

*A woman told me that there are fish in the lake and in the mornings they are jumping all over feeding on the flies. I was sorely tempted to ask if they had a place for my tent.*



​The road, as bad as yesterday until now, became positively lunar. Potholes became lakeholes, cracks became trenches, loose gravel became boulders. 'T'was mad! But fun! Traffic went everywhere to avoid the worst. Sometimes, one driver would seize their chance for a cute overtake when a (normally) car changed lanes a pickup behind would power up and bounce over whatever flaw existed in the road. It wasn't that there was a lot of traffic, it was just that oncoming traffic tended to arrive in bunches. This was no fast descent! 

*Sorry! I just love the blending of the familiar and the exotic!*



​Once I realised how slow I was going I pretty much gave up on the idea of doing the big climb and decided to enjoy myself. 
There were precious few places to stop on my side so I often used the other side. Sometimes, just straddling the bike and enjoying the scene was enough.

*Sometimes only a roadshot will do! Cycling through these trees was glorious, if a little treacherous. The trees offered dappled shade from the sun which camouflaged the holes in the road. No birds though.*



​I was now in big, tall tree country with a river valley on my left - when I could see it through the trees. Like yesterday, there was precious little birdsong from the trees.
There were also a lot of cliffs and evidence of rockfalls. Twice, entrepreneurs had set themselves up in the middle of the road and were "busy" "removing" rocks and dirt - for a tip from passing motorists! Two guys were very effective, having arranged quite large rocks into a kind of chicane. Later, a single man had less expansive ideas and was working with dried mud. 

The lower I got the warmer it became. Near the end of the descent I came to a bridge over a river and received a fine, cool spray of water from a leaky pipe. Oh! Delicious!






Of course, people were just as friendly today. I wasn't even out of La Esperanza when a pick up pulled in and the driver hopped out for a quick chat. Later, less comfortably, I was tailed by a motorcyclist who eventually drew up beside me and started to talk - through his helmet while both of us were moving downhill. I didn't feel comfortable stopping so I kept going and trying to answer his questions which all seemed to be about distance. 
He was annoying me because I wanted to stop for photos but felt like I shouldn't and also because by sticking right by my side he kept pushing me into potholes. I varied speed but he stuck like glue.
At the chicane rockfall I thought I had lost him so pulled in a little later. There he was, right behind me, in my mirror's blindspot with his engine off (common enough here). He pulled in diagonally in front of me, effectively cutting me off from proceeding 
There was no need to panic. He was a cyclist too, a roadie - that would explain his lack of social skills . I got to see a photo of him on his bike and struggled through a few minutes of frankly bizarre conversation. I was glad when I could roll on.

*Hot! But the view!*



​Levelling off it was hot! Very hot! I'd gained ten degrees on the descent and Gizmo was still rising. I passed the area where Osmand said there was camping - nada. iOverlander has nothing around here. I pulled up under a tree and had a think. I had 30km to go and 800 meters of climbing ahead of me. It was approaching 1pm. And hot! Tomorrow morning will make more sense.

So, I pulled into the little village of Jesus de Otoro, bounced up to the little park and got a cold, pineapple drink. There's not many hotel options but I found one with a friendly owner, checked in, had a cold shower and went out to explore. 







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 16, 2021, Jesus de Otoro to Comayagua 65 km Total KM 2629
Min meters 580, Max Meters 1430
Total Climb 1161 Total Descent 1175
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 26

_Part 1: There are too many photos that shouldn't be missed. _

Feckin' close to perfection!

There is a hell of a lot to be said for being able to roll up to a roadside Comedor, have a chat and have a personalised breakfast made. Back in México when I couldn't understand a word I was still fed and I've no doubt here would be the same but the whole process is so much more rewarding (and tasty) with un poco de Español. But more on that later.

*Early morning small town Honduras - only the asses are out! Myself included!



*​Sometimes this cycling from place to place lark can be bloody hard work. Sometimes it can be the most fantastic feeling of travelling through, of experiencing and of feeling a place. And sometimes it can be both - and all before 10am!!

*When this is my view when I get on the road I just know I'm in for a good day!



*​Up early, coffee, a breakfast of a couple of hard boiled eggs and I rang the bell to be let out. 
It was just bright enough to proceed safely so I rejoined the main road and started to climb. 800 meters up was goal one. 

It's funny. I remember vividly my first bike ride as an adult. An old, heavy, rusty MTB managed to carry me about 6km before I gave out. Today I'll climb 1/6 of that distance, fully laden, in mountains on the other side of the world, in a country that most of us (me especially) know nothing about! (Go on..... What's the Capital city of Honduras?).
That first bike ride was in 2012. Seven years later I set off on this little adventure and look where I am! 

*Heading up and if you look closely you'll see one of the cyclists that started my mental wanderings. This road didn't just look special - it felt special.



*​That's what I was thinking about this morning heading up and up and up. Probably partly inspired by two guys on MTBs a bit ahead of me. Despite me stopping regularly for a photo I was advancing on them the whole time!

They eventually stopped when I was right behind them and whipped out their phones to video me. (In fact today, lots of people videoed me. Unusually for me I kind of enjoyed it and somewhere there are videos of a grinning cyclist riding his bike!)
I pulled in a little later for a photo and they caught up for a chat. Just out for a bit of cardio, they said. Honduras is the place for it!

*A little river provided a bubbling soundtrack*



​It was gloriously cool at about 20C and after an initial steep section it settled in to a 5-7% gradient. Traffic on my side was light, oncoming heavier, but very, very friendly. Lots of toots and waves, one truck driver even killing the revs to holler out the window at me. Such goodwill is good for the soul.
Traffic was also crazy veering every which way to avoid potholes and the like. There's something to be said for witnessing a motorbike loaded as only motorbikes can be around here weaving over and back at a ridiculous speed! 
No point in freaking out, just relax and enjoy!

*And this little waterfall was a different kind of music. Mother Nature was working overtime!*



​Coming up to 400 meters of climbing I pulled in for a break and to dig into some chewy, homemade coconut flavoured sweets I'd picked up in Gracias.

I was feeling quite good and definitely glad that I hadn't attempted this yesterday. 

*Getting some height and being able to look back on where I had come from*



​The second half went pretty much the same as the first, slow and steady with lots of pauses for a photo or to savour. Sometimes I wonder what passing traffic must make of me. With few places to park the bike I'd pull in, lock the brakes and straddling the bike just look around me - a big, dumb grin plastered across my face. Today was a high "smiles per mile" day. 

*More height, more colour, more contrast*



​Now though, I was dealing with threatening rain. At first I thought it may just have been mist as I climbed into clouds but then definite raindrops were falling. Donning the jacket just scared the rain away so I removed it at the next rail. I had to put it back on near the top! 

*Never knowing if its going to rain or not!*
_



_​Then I peaked and hungry and a little cold I kept my eyes open for a comedor - I wanted something warm. 

*What a view! Well earned!*



​Read on for part II​
*Later, a set of roadside shops - so colourful!*​





Chat? Yes Please!
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​


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 16, 2021, Jesus de Otoro to Comayagua 65 km Total KM 2629
Min meters 580, Max Meters 1430
Total Climb 1161 Total Descent 1175
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 26

Part II

I found what I was looking for after a few 
kms and pulled in. A wonderfully pleasant woman listened as I responded to her verbal menu - a baleada with frijoles, egg and fried banana. 
If you've never had it, fried banana is the business! 
A baleada is simply a (large) tortilla, in this case filled with scrambled eggs, beans and my banana. 
She'd never done one with banana before so this was an adventure for her too which she attacked with gusto, checking with me on every stage.
Her colleague made the tortilla from scratch, by hand, with none of the tools I'd seen in Mexico. Tortillas vary not just in ingredients but in method.
A special wood fired oven was for cooking the tortilla (yes, I asked and had a close inspection!).
A lovely chat was had. Spanish here is tougher with some new words and a higher tempo. 
She was delighted to hear of my positive experiences in Honduras, very happy to hear that I felt welcome. Asking me about Politics I headed her off at the pass. I explained that I knew little and that in Europe we only get the bad news. But politics is only a small part of a country - the people are the large part and my experiences were all positive.
Then we had a little giggle at how bad Guatemalan food is!

*A little river that created the valley I was going to be travelling through for the afternoon*



​I set off again in great form. The road was pretty flat and I only had about 15km to go. While I am definitely enjoying myself, there is little balance to the cycling - it is either up, up and up or down and down. 

On a whim I decided to extend my day and go a bit further. I arrived at a junction to bring me to Siguatepeque planning to pass an hour before continuing on but it's a busy place! The horns! The horns! I took one look and decided "No". I took the road to Comayagua.

*I don't think a mere "road" does justice to this magical piece of engineering meandering through a glorious valley.*​





Four lanes, divided by those horrible speed bump thingies I mentally waved goodbye to all the road friendliness I'd been enjoying the last couple of days. 

Ha! Dumbass!

It turned out to be one of the friendliest highways I've ever been on!

*Not just friendly, breathtakingly beautiful and varied*



​But first there was a complication - it was a toll road! No need to panic - motorbikes are free and have their own lane. I took that and nobody stopped me. I had a shoulder all to myself!

It took a little while to adjust to my new surroundings and when I looked at Gizmo the temperature had jumped from 30 to 37C! And then I started to descend! 

*Too many trees? Here's a cliff!*



​What a fantastic road! Cars and trucks beeped, waved and made me feel incredibly welcome. The scenery was just fantastic as we weaved through a river valley, revealing forests, high cliffs, farmland and regular glimpses of the surprisingly small river.

Every night wherever I put down my head is my home but today, on that road I felt at home. The reaction of so many drivers and passengers was just so warm, so welcoming. 

There are a lot of stores, in sections, along the road, organised by category it seems. A bunch selling wooden things (really nice) then another selling hammocks etc. Occasionally, a regular shop. There are no special parking areas - cars just pull into the shoulder. Approaching a big 18 wheeler from behind I saw his indicator go on to pull out and stopped behind him. I was in no rush and saw no need to pull into the road. 
Out comes an arm from the window telling me to overtake him, so I did, getting a big smile, a wave and a cheerful "buen viaje" as I passed the cab. Later, when he caught up with me a cheerful "tune" on the horn as he passed. 

*It's not a dusty backroad, certainly on a map there is nothing to suggest "adventure" (Street view doesn't work in these parts) but this should be included in any list of epic cycling roads. Suitable for everyone!*



​There was one last climb - steep and hot that had to be made so once that was over I pulled in for a cold drink. Setting off again I felt so comfortable I took the lane and just let the bike fly! What a feeling! 

It took me a while to realise that no traffic was coming against me so it wasn't too surprising to come across an accident - a truck had tipped over on its side. A timely reminder, perhaps, that I should curb my boyish urgings.

*Looking back. Always look back!*



​Another reason for feeling so good was that I was hoping to camp at a hotel suggested by iOverlander. Turning off the main road I had a race on my hands against some angry clouds. On arrival, it's not really suitable for tents and since I had some errands to run and wasn't keen on leaving everything outside while I was away I opted for a room.

Once in, I changed and hit the town. 
Honduran towns lack a lot of the "classic" colonial architecture and are more orientated towards cars. I find them less relaxing. At least the bigger ones.

*Is there anything I can add to this picture?*



​I needed some alcohol for the stove and some cash. Paint stores didn't help me but a big hardware store did!
I counted at least three shotgun armed guards! The one at the door couldn't have been intimidating if he tried!
He tapped me on the shoulder for my backpack (not allowed in) then subtlely called a young woman over to help me. I was happy to look around and found what I was looking for and another girl (sent from the front) came down to make sure I was buying the right stuff! She brought me a different bottle and explained that this was stronger and better for me. It did say industrial on it!
Service!
At the cash register the man standing in front of me insisted that I go ahead since I only had one item! 
On leaving, the security guard had my bag, got my receipt stamped and wished me a good day.

To think I was worried about being able to get fuel! Feck me, it's great fun!

*I can reach out and touch those plants! I'm not an observer, but a participant!*



​Then a bank machine (in a mall for security). Since I'm clearly a foreigner this security guard checked with me that I was in the right queue (I was) and when a guy tried to cut in front of "the gringo" he had a man with a shotgun in his hand tapping him on the shoulder!

Big errands done I took a wander to the Plaza and church. I found a very pleasant girl serving coffee and churros and checking she could make change of a 500L (about €15) note I sat down to write this up. 

Making change can be a problem in these parts. I always try to have small money but sometimes it's just not possible. A lot of places, especially the small places that I tend to favour can't make change. In México an Oxxo was my go to - busy with security they always had change. Here it's different.

Another thing too, is tipping. From Oaxaca/Chiapas onwards into Guatemala tipping was expected - often included on the bill. Here, it's a big surprise. People unfailingly return the extra and I'll say that it's a propina, a tip, for them. Genuinely, they're not expecting it. 

My breakfast lady today was very surprised when I overpaid. Then delighted that I had enjoyed the experience so much.

*Street art made from bottle tops! As friendly as the Hondurans are they are not Mexican friendly and let tourists stand in the street for the perfect shot*



​There are days when everything gets as close to perfection as we are allowed and today was one of those days.
I think being kind to myself yesterday and not pushing to take the big climb helped.
My Spanish, such as it is, is a huge help in turning otherwise stressful encounters into fun. 

And Honduras, especially the people. So. Friendly!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 17, 2021, Comayagua to Parque Aurora 49 km Total KM 2678
Min meters 591, Max Meters 1508
Total Climb 1089 Total Descent 233
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 30

If you like cycling up mountains and you like people, come to Honduras! 

The day finished with sore muscles and not from the climbing! Waving at people and grinning like a loon have me wrecked! 

*Within ten minutes of hopping on the bike this was unfurling on my left side. Yes, the sun was a warning of early heat, but such a sight only fires me up for the day ahead! It helps, of course, that the road is relatively flat!



*​I'm falling in love! 
I know nothing about Honduras! 
Back in 1982 we were given a school project where we had to research a country each from the '82 World Cup in Spain. I drew Honduras.
I can remember nothing (in fairness I was 9) and I have no idea where I would have been able to do some research. No doubt Mrs Caffrey in the library helped me out.
Now, here I am doing my own research. Other than learning a bit about coffee my experiences are on the road. 
Roads that are either "interesting" or very good though tough, but fabulous countryside, drivers that are friendly, respectful and safe (to me, not so much each other!) and people that are generally warm, welcoming, friendly and honest. (You would not believe the number of times a tip is returned because they think I misunderstood the numbers!)
It's like I get a jolt of something good and just as its effect is wearing off, there is another! This is not the kind of drug normally associated with these parts! I'm finding Honduras to be very addictive!

*All around me at varying distances are walls of mountains with banks of clouds. So familiar, yet interestingly different.*



​Up before the sun my morning didn't go as planned. My industrial strength fuel? Wouldn't light! When will I ever learn not to be swayed by smiling señoritas?

I still made coffee, though with the last of my own fuel and even ate a little breakfast - corn flakes and granola with milk - leftovers from last night's not very exciting dinner.

Getting out of town was straightforward and back on the main road I was immediately struck by the sight of the sun blasting through clouds and mountains. In fact, the whole horizon was mountains and clouds. Glorious!

I was heading to a park for a spot of camping, not terribly far away but with a 1000 meter climb to get to it! Before that though, I had about 20km of relatively flat road on what is rapidly becoming my favourite highway! 

*Despite the heat I was really enjoying myself. Exotic plant life just emphasises where I am.*



​You can't expect too many people to be cheerful at 6:30 in the morning but other than an artic reversing along my shoulder because he missed his turn traffic was respectful. There was even a bit of a cycle path on the way out of town. 

It was great to do some proper cycling - just some rolling hills and I was flying along. I chose not to think of the big climb ahead. 

*I saw quite a few of these today, interesting because I am not too far from the Capital on one of the main roads.*



​The road, a four lane dual carriageway had a big, grass covered dip separating the directions. I saw people, motorbikes and pickups just turn off the fast lane, down the grass bank and up the other side onto the fast lane!

Two guys passed me on a motorbike, nothing unusual about that - except they also had a mountain bike between them! I don't know how he managed it but the passenger managed to work his hand free for a wave!

Cattle, horses and one very loud donkey were tied up on the grass verge for grazing. 

I passed several cart-pulling oxen. 

*In one wide, shallow river I crossed two men were loading wet rocks into a wagon pulled by cattle.*



​Three roadies passed me with a motorbike bringing up the rear. Cheerful and friendly roadies!

And the views!






For a highway there wasn't a dull moment!

Passing the small village of Flores I pulled in for a ferretería, a hardware store. The first one wasn't interested in listening to me, the second one had a man who was curious and helpful, sending two young fellas off to look. We located a 3/4 full bottle of meths and had a lovely chat.
He didn't want to charge me the full price because it wasn't full so we reverse haggled! 
Maybe it was the road but I couldn't shut up when he asked me what I thought of his country. I am really enjoying Honduras.

Then the climbing started! Deceptively, at first. I was finding it hard going at the start despite the road seeming flat. Checking Gizmo I saw an 8% gradient - because the road was so wide I reckon it was messing with my head!

It was getting hot now and shade was very scarce, at least on my side so I adopted a simple, safe method. I rode until shade then I stopped and cooled down. That might mean five minutes or twenty five in the saddle. If there was shade I used it. It worked well and I was motoring along, never getting too hot and making steady progress. 

*Taking shade where I can. How much closer to nature could I be?



*​About 3/4 of the way up I pulled in to a little comedor for some food - my belly was starting to protest. Not as pleasant or as interesting as yesterday but beggars can't be choosers. I rested before making the last attempt at the climb.

The only problem I had after that was the sun - there was absolutely no shade and precious few places to prop a bike. To be honest, I didn't really notice all that much. I just powered along, surprising myself at my progress. In all fairness, the countryside was the kind of countryside for cycling through - beautiful without being spectacular, stimulating and interesting enough to draw me up each crest and around every bend but not so stunning that I wanted to stop on every bend.
It reminded me a lot of southern Germany, the Alps, of Tirol, with pine trees, decent roads and well behaved traffic.
I was thoroughly enjoying myself!

*That's our road way down there!



*​Having avoided Gizmo's elevation profile all day (it was particularly scary!) I switched it on for the last bit of climbing. There was no fanfare, no epic view as the road levelled off and curved downwards.
There was a toll booth with another lane for motorcyclists and me so I continued on downhill. I passed the park to hit a filling station to stock up on some essentials. 
There was a large, but very empty store and an old man on door duty armed with a digital thermometer and gel. And a very friendly attitude. He assured me I could camp in the park. It was only later I noticed the pistol strapped to his side.
Outside I got talking to another man eating an ice cream. When I mentioned Argentina out with his phone - he'd been to Ushuia two Decembers ago.
I haven't thought about or looked at a photo of there in almost two years! Not a bad bit of motivation! 

*The view at the top of the climb. In the text I describe this as not epic! I am a very, very spoiled cycle tourist! *​





Then I rolled back up to the park for one of the most informal check ins ever! Once she had my approx €3 she returned to her conversation with two friends. Apparently I can camp anywhere I like! A n y where! 
It's a big park!
It has swimming pools, a little playground, some football pitches, toilets, a store somewhere, a little zoo, I think, a river, lakes and lots and lots of sheltered areas with picnic tables, a grill and a bin.
Yes, it's noisy around the pool with music but pushing deeper into the park I have it all to myself. Just the birds. 

There's a wonderful "usability" to these places. Simply equipped they are a place for people to gather, relax, celebrate. In one area a family are celebrating a child's birthday - a big family. In another, two parents are relaxing with a toddler.
Look at the carpark and there's a mix of battered pickups and much shinier SUVs. Some, no doubt came out on bikes or in a taxi.
And me, clearly a foreigner, on my bike made just as welcome.
It put me in mind of the State & National Parks in the US. Reservations required, incredibly complex check in procedures (and not consistent), rules and formalities. They are set up for people with $100,000 Camper vans, with the time and resources to make reservations months (or years) in advance. The Park in South Carolina charged me $45 or $50 for one night! 
It's not meant as a criticism, just an observation of how places can be so different. I met many wonderful people in those places.
Here, the parks are for everyone - accessible to everyone. Even me!

I took a wander around and picked a place far from the madding crowd. I brewed up some coffee and the plan is to relax and to enjoy. It's a beautiful place.
Later, I'll be a bit more sociable and move to where there's more people - I'm far away from the toilets and the shop. I think the place closes at 5pm so after that it's all mine!
Well, mine and a security guard! 







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, July 18, 2021, Parque Aurora to Tegucigalpa 42 km Total KM 2720
Min meters 942, Max Meters 1441
Total Climb 645 Total Descent 1035
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

Feck me - I just rode my bike into the capital of Honduras!

Take a bow @netman 
- today is living proof that serendipity kicks in once we make a commitment!

I mean no disrespect to anyone who has been hit by Covid, but this morning, sharing a coffee with the security guard I had cause to be very grateful for the chance that Covid gave me to learn Spanish.

*Setting off. Quiet, excellent road, interesting sky!*



​Yesterday evening, after a very relaxing couple of hours in the depths of the park I moved closer to the action as most people were packing up to leave. I took over an empty shelter with three large picnic tables for my temporary home. There were beautiful places in the park but miles away from the bathrooms. Somehow peeing in the bushes felt like peeing on the warmth I'm receiving. Giving the rainfall that can hit with hardly any notice a roof is not to be sneezed at. 

*Sky is getting more interesting!*



​I commandeered a 12 person picnic table as only I can do and cooked up dinner - noodles, tuna in a Mexican sauce. Deeeeeelicious!

I'd had a poke around and could find no electrical sockets so was pleasantly surprised when one of the workmen came over before he left and led me to one hiding high in a corner of another hut. 

By 6:30 I had the park to myself, the tent up and all ready for bed. The night guard showed up and we chatted. I offered him coffee in the morning. By 7:30 I was in bed, the fly open and just the mesh between me and the stars. Glorious!

*What can I say, the weather is unpredictable!*



​Getting up was a bugger in the dark without my headtorch. I waited for a bit of daylight then set about coffee and breakfast. The park was still and filled with the sound of birdsong. 
Then Ruben (I may have misheard) joined me for the promised coffee. This is the first time on this trip I got to use my extra cup! I was delighted!
He told me that he had been thinking about me all night, about my journey and my experiences. He said that it is a great idea to do such a big journey over such a long time but not everyone could do that. Family, children, fear all keep people back. He had spoken with God and God was keeping me safe.
That's a common thing I hear from people along the way that God is going along with me, looking after me, keeping me safe.
It's not a theory I subscribe to, but I do find it reassuring in that so many people display basic, Christian principles day in day out. I may not believe in a God, but I am certainly benefiting from those that do.
We had a lovely chat over more coffee and he rode his motorbike with me to open the gate.

*Parque Aurora. My home for a night*



​Setting off in the relative cool the sky was looking ominous. Ruben had told me rain was forecast - maybe I could beat it!
In truth, the ominous sky matched my mood since I wasn't sure where I was headed. Tegucigalpa is the next big town - in fact, it's the Capital of Honduras! 
I had no real way of avoiding it (I'd looked in Gracias) but by arriving on Sunday I was giving myself the best chance to ride right through it. 
There was only one place I was interested in seeing The Museum of National Identity - simply based on the name and after Ciudad de Guatemala I'm not too enamoured with Capital cities. With several gpx routes in Gizmo I set off.

*A huge cemetery beside the road filled with bright, cheerful flowers*



​Again, a great road if slightly less inspiring views. Most traffic seemed to be against me and I had a long, gentle descent. Being Honduras, I then set about gaining all the lost altitude. Of course, that was when the sun came out to play! Hot!

At about the 300m mark, about half way I pulled in to a comedor and asked about my favourite - eggs, beans, fried banana & tortillas. This lady was more matter of fact but delivered up a simple, great breakfast. Then the questions came, rapid fire! I was trying to eat, understand and formulate answers before I got blitzed again! Another woman and a girl joined in too! Great fun!

*My first view of the Capital!*



​I had a decent phone signal and checked out a couple of things. Of course, the museum is closed on Monday so that means staying until Wednesday to visit it. However, there's not much the far side of Tegucigalpa accommodation wise so if I shoot through I could be stuck. I'm two or three days from the border and need a Covid test done - easier in the city. That means my time in Honduras is near the end!
That makes me sad! I am thoroughly enjoying this place. 

Based on all that I booked myself in to a hostel in the city, rejigged Gizmo and set off up the hill! Honduras has been wonderful, Tegucigalpa deserves a chance.

*Getting closer and the sky is starting to look ominous!*



​Over the top it was nearly all downhill again and traffic was picking up. I was doing fine until I had to cross two lanes of traffic to take a descent that I couldn't even see! 
Once taken, I was regretting my decision big time! Two tight lanes, no shoulder only concrete barriers and fast moving traffic. Because of the steep descent I was invisible, despite my flag, until they had crested the hill. Not just unpleasant, frightening. Had I been able to see in advance I wouldn't have taken it.
Then beside me there's a Police pick up. Oh no! I'm going to get pulled over! (There are lots of comments on iOverlander of traffic pulled over for silly reasons and "on the spot fines").

Ha! Dumbass! 
When will I ever learn?

That wasn't their motivation at all! The cab drew alongside me and I was greeted and welcomed! They pulled ahead so the four armed guys in the back could say hello, then they pulled in behind me and gave me a reverse escort, shielding me from the traffic!
I laughed at loud, I roared with exhiliration! 
What an experience! 
This wasn't like the escort in México because here I really, really needed help! 
When I eventually pulled off at my exit waves and honking! 
You could have plugged me into the national grid and I'd have powered a small town I was so charged up!

Commit and serendipity kicks in!

*I had to blindly go where that car was going!*



​The rest of the trip through the city was interesting - small streets, steep climbs and drops - 18% steep. You never know the type of neighbourhood you're going to be passing through but I had no problems. I even got caught in the now inevitable street market.
It even started raining but I didn't care. 
Traffic was city traffic - abrupt, yet considerate. Speed bumps everywhere, especially on the smaller streets require caution and steep climbs or descents require focus, attention and lots of effort.

Sunday is a drinking day in these parts and there is no lack of evidence. Bodies sprawled, unconscious, on paths, doorways and one right across the metal steps to a pedestrian bridge across a road are still jolting to me, yet seem "normal" to locals. At one stage I cycled past a couple of small, noisy "bars" and unusually I could see in. Bare, a handful of tables covered in empty bottles, mixmatched chairs and one or two sleeping patrons they gave me the willies. I'm a firm believer that bars can serve a very important social function in communities once they are not simply alcohol dispensers. These didn't look like anything else.

*If it wasn't raining it could look like this!*



​In places like this I am so glad to have Gizmo for getting me around. With twists, turns and one way systems I would soon be totally disoriented. If my road is inconvenient (street market) or uncomfortable I can use the basic map underneath to navigate around without having to take out my phone. Properly prepared, I can have several options to the same destination and switch between them.
Gizmo directed me right to the door of the hostel and I checked in. 

Home in Tegucigalpa. It feels a whole lot better than I thought! 

*Honduras! I've only done a little bit!*​





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jul 2021)

Tegucigalpa

I am a bad, bad tourist!

After arriving in the hostel I lost a few minutes gazing at their map of Honduras - there is so much more to see!!

I had a quick, cold shower and headed off into the centre. I'd had half an idea to rush for the museum of National Identity but it closed at 4pm so I figured that would be a waste.

*Traffic can be chaotic, buildings a bit haphazard and on the verge of falling down*



​I headed for the main Plaza, although they call them parks here.
Lots of narrow streets, steep hills and dilapidated buildings. Because of all the hills there's a tendency for the streets not to be straight, certainly less of a grid pattern so common in other cities. Between the ups, downs and bends it's very easy for me to get lost!

*I found this wreck at the hilly end of a short street*



​I found the park easily enough but felt little incentive to stay. I wandered around a few of the streets and headed back before night fell. I'd be back on Tuesday!

*The main Parque/Plaza. I found it a bit hectic and uncomfortable. There is a lot more graffiti here and a lot less street art. The Keyla mentioned here refers to a young medical student arrested some months ago who was found dead in her cell. Initial reports of suicide have been rejected and some Police are now under arrest. I have seen various references to Keyla in a number of places. This message simply states that Kayla is absent. (Faltar is difficult to translate directly. The closest is probably to lack)*




​Monday started with great intentions! I was going to hike 7km up to a park with a statue of Jesus. It's supposed to have a great view of the city. A lazy morning though on the terrace of the hostel was a bit of a distraction.
I got organised and ready to set off planning on doing some chores on the way.
I dropped some laundry in for a decent wash and they had to check if they had water before they could accept them! A different world!
I went to a pharmacy to enquire about my Covid test and was directed to a clinic. There I learned about my options.
Then is started to rain! Bucketloads!
I popped into a supermarket, bought some food and shelter hopped back to the hostel. No walking up a bloody big hill for me!

*This was a very pleasant little park I stumbled upon - not a place to sit at all!*



​Tuesday was the day! Up early! Good breakfast! Relaxing coffee! Set off in plenty of time - a man on a mission!
I had been so proud of myself to check if it was open Monday that it came as a complete shock to me to learn that it's not open any day. Thanks Covid!!
The doorman/guard seemed shocked that I didn't know!
Located in an old building I asked if I could even step inside to see the entrance hall and was surprised to be refused.
I could feel my heart sinking rapidly as I walked away but I had a look around me and not for the first time reminded myself where I was - Honduras! - and how I was travelling - on my bike! - and a certain calm mixed with both excitement and contentment came over me.
I was disappointed, yes. I'd wanted to kearn more about this place and its people. I wanted to read about history and culture, not just the bad stuff on the news. Maybe I'll have to come back!

*The street outside where I gathered my thoughts under a bright canopy. I was charmed by the proximity of the green hills (this is the city centre) and the fact they were undeveloped. There are a lot of houses overlooking the city. In the north where I entered the city many resemble shacks and look very unstable, stacked higgledy-piggledy. The building overlooking the hostel (more south) were a lot more substantial. 
The main post office was close by. Mexico spoiled me!*




​Now, with loads of time on my hands I took to wandering around the centre then took a meandering route back towards the hostel and the medical clinic for my Covid test.

*The Cathedral on the main plaza *



​I have been terribly spoiled in México! Other big towns and cities just don't suit me. Tegus has few places to just sit and relax. There's a lot of activity - noisy activity. More dilapidated it had contrasts too - here an old building falling down next to a more modern one but I found little charm. Of course, I have to remember that CDMX was especially quiet when I was there, but even before Covid (seems so long ago!) places like Guadalajara, Durango and especially Morelia spoke to me in ways that recent towns and cities haven't.

*A typical street. Buildings tend to be low (I'm presuming because of earthquakes) and narrow although this one was relatively flat*



​I knew the clinic stopped at three so I wanted to be as late as possible without cutting it too fine. I was there a little after two. Processing was easy and since the results are emailed/whatsapped I was paranoid about making sure that information was checked, double checked and triple checked!
The test itself was fine and I was out. Probably fifteen minutes in total.
Then I did a bit of grocery shopping (there's a big supermarket which is a pleasure to stroll through). So relaxed was I that I nearly forgot to pick up my laundry!
Then it was back tonthe hostel (in the rain) to give Roccado a look over.
The front derailleur trigger hasn't been springing back into place. I opened it up and could see no blockage. I guess the spring needs replacing but as I can draw it back manually it's not on the urgent list. I also have a few scratches on the frame so I sanded them down and gave them a coat of nail varnish. Maybe some of you are shocked but the scruffier the bike the happier I am!

*A river near the centre. I was surprised because it wasn't clogged with litter as I have seen elsewhere and the rainbow flag on the bridge. *



​So, in the end I got to see (and do) feck all in Tegus. I don't feel that I missed out on anything. I'm not comfortable using Public transport to extend my exploration range so I'm limited by where my feet will bring me.

*The top of this tower lured me down but behind the wall was just wasteground.*




​I had a lazy night, cooking for myself and went to bed early. After looking at the photos of the man the other day I found myself daydreaming of Ushuia a lot. No big cities there!

*There's not a lot of greenery but when there is......*


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 21, 2021, Tegucigalpa to Ojo de Agua 60 km Total KM 2823
Min meters ?, Max Meters ?
Total Climb 989 Total Descent 1357
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 31

(Edited to correct distance and climbing)

Smiles per mile off the scale!

If I haven't said it before...... Honduras is to cycle touring as a good fire is to a cold, wet, winter's day. It doesn't just provide heat, it comforts, lifts spirits and casts itself around so that it is bigger and more impactful than it has any right to be.






I don't like cities. I don't like riding in or out of them. I was a bit anxious about today. I could manage coffee (I really couldn't manage without) but no food. I'd bought food especially for breakfast but the thought of eating? No thanks!

Just as I was ready to go I noticed that the last screw on the unrepaired Ortlieb had popped out! Aaaaaargh!

*A mountain village*



​First job was to hit the clinic for my Covid result on paper. I'd received a pdf last night (negative), had forwarded it to the Nicaraguans but to be sure to be sure I wanted the paper copy.
The girl who answered my questions on Monday and processed me yesterday was all smiles today. Very pleasant, if a little fast with her Spanish. Her colleague gently reminded her several times to slow down!

Then I dropped down onto a ring road and set off into the chaos.

In fairness it wasn't too bad. To give credit, I'd looked at Tim Tower's route out and followed it. There were a few steep climbs but I was able to use a third lane. When that disappeared I opted to use a "footpath", at times a regular footpath, at times an adventure in itself.
My destination was the village of Ojo de Agua 50 odd km down the road as I didn't want to put myself under pressure.

*Out of the city, not the greatest of roads but at least I had a shoulder - most of the time!*



​It took all of 5.5 km for Honduras to warm me, comfort me and cast warm shadows that I know I am going to see for a long, long time.
Approaching a filling station a man standing beside a BMW SUV flagged me down. Being a BMW driver he wasn't bothered that his car was effectively blocking the entrance to the station!
He hailed me in English asking where I was from. I answered in Spanish and our brief conversation continued in both languages and something else.
He asked me where I was going so I said Argentina (people here can take it!).
And then, then, I'm not really sure what happened.
He said he had a motorbike but his voice trailed off.
Then he gave me a 500 Lempira note (ball park €15) a significant sum in these parts.
Of course, I wouldn't take it. Of all days I wasn't looking too scruffy! I'd had my clothes laundered for crying out loud!
He insisted. He started "Your journey....." but the words faded away.
He tried again "What you are doing......" but the words faded again.
It wasn't a language block. Watching him, it was an emotional blockage. Something about seeing a loaded cyclist (and I have no idea when he saw me or for how long he was waiting for me) spoke to him on some kind of a level. And affected him.
"Please", he continued "I know you don't need it. I just want......." and his voice failed again.
I don't need the money, judging by his car he didn't either. There were a lot of places that money would be better diverted to but right there, at that moment, to refuse again would have been wrong. There was something in the air, some emotion, unexpressed, quite possibly not defined, but present and tangible.
I took the proffered note, he thanked me. Yes, he actually thanked me and shuffled back to his car. I manoeuvred around it, past the passenger door to be greeted by a woman smiling, waving and nodding furiously.
My "gracias" were loud and frequent but there was no doubting that both of them thought they got the better end of the deal.

*Now this is my kind of country! 



*​With traffic I couldn't really process it, it was only later, on quieter, more peaceful, scenic roads that I had a chance to let the encounter roll around in my head.
He didn't ask my name (unusual), didn't offer his, made no attempt to find out more about my journey or how he could follow it. It was a "ships passing in the night" moment. Whatever drew him to me I developed the idea that he didn't want to spoil it with detail.
It's an experience that will stay with me a long, long time. Not for the generosity, but for his bravery. There was a vulnerability about him that he was willing to expose to a complete stranger. A stranger on a loaded bike.

*Forest, haze, hills and one special tree - a land of mystery, a blank canvas for the imagination. My face is starting to ache from all the smiling*



​You'd think that would be enough of positive encounters for a day's touring but no, Honduras is a different kind of place. A little later I encountered two roadies, Kenny was the guy and he was cycling with a girl. They asked for a photo, sure, then if they could cycle with moi! I warned them of my low speed but they were happy. So off we set, me now taking the road with an outrider escort! Going up was hard, going down was fun! When my road veered from theirs she was very careful to make sure I took the right one! She did take a couple of action shots of me in transit so, in honour of the day if they ever surface I'll break my own rules and post it here. Today was that special!

With every intersection the traffic lightened. I passed along an extended town and with a long climb ahead I pulled in for a cold drink and a rest. 12km on the clock how could the day improve?

*There's a vibrancy, a life that flows from the land and fills me with energy. *



​Well, for a start the Touring Gods gave me a bit of a shoulder so that helped. They also laid on some interesting scenery and bit by bit they reduced the traffic. The only downside was that there was a lot of litter along the road. I suppose it's to be expected leaving such a big city but it remained a constant all day, long after the city was left behind.

It wasn't spectacular scenery, but it fit. As I climbed the sky became darker, the air damper. There were even a few raindrops. Then I remembered I was in Honduras and the road dropped down leaving me with another climb. Slow and steady was the order of business.
Once over the peak I pulled into a comedor for the best tamale yet. I had a choice of chicken or pork so opted for chicken. A few minutes later I was glad of my choice when a baby pig came over to me shnuffling at my legs and feet! Imagine if I was eating pork!!

*The ever changing road. The colour was so vibrant, so vivid (unfortunately diluted by the bright sun in the wrong place). I've seen enough rocks on the road to know that rockfalls do happen (and have even witnessed a couple of small ones). I find it very exciting riding past these cliffs. Traffic beeped, waved and cheered when I was trying to take this shot.*



​Just as an example of what I witness every day, the girl looking after me, no more than 15, quoted me 70L for my bill. Once she had the money she walked over to my table, checked the empty coke bottle and returned 20L apologising for charging me for a bigger bottle!

I now had a long, leisurely descent ahead of me and the sky had brightened considerably. Now, further from the city the toots and waves were returning. I hit roadworks and the flagman / traffic stopper greeted me with a cheery, English "Hello friend, how are you?", before apologising for having to stop me!
The wind started being an issue today. There was a hefty wind and such was the twisty nature of the road it switched from head to either side. Gusts were tricky but since I was in no hurry I just took my time.

*Worth the effort? Ab-So-Feckin'-Loutely! Sometimes I let a roar out of me when something speaks to me. Today, it was laughter. I can't roar when I'm grinning from ear to ear*​





Such was my day. I had another climb to do that finished at about 37C. Then another descent into the town of Ojo de Agua. I had no information on accommodation but was hoping for something. A recreational place that might have been a camping option was closed so I found the one hotel, checked in and sat in the sun to write this up. I'm going to cook up some noodles and tuna for dinner and have an early night.
I've received an email from the Nicaraguan government to tell me I'm welcome!

*I started seeing stone walls, something familiar in a land far, far from home. More smiles *



​Tomorrow is the last big town in Honduras then Friday morning I'll climb my last Honduran mountain and (hopefully) cross into Nicaragua.
I'm not sure I want to leave!

*These past few posts have been among the most difficult to pare down to ten photos. More photos are on Strava and when I've time I'll post a link to a Google album. They really are worth a look.
Strava: https://www.strava.com/athletes/22850894

*A magical place*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 22, 2021, Ojo de Agua to Danlí 43 km Total KM 2866
Min meters 546, Max Meters 1068
Total Climb 793 Total Descent 606
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 31

The coolest place on Earth!

To my mind one of the most powerful lyrics in rock is from Neil Young's "Rockin' in the Free World".
In singing about an addict who favours her next fix over her son he says
"That's one more kid who'll never go to school,
Never get to fall in love,
Never get to be cool".

That last line always gets me. 
Everyone should get the chance to be cool.
*Setting off. OK, it's a crappy road and the surface means I'll be going pretty slow ….. but the atmosphere! Misty mysterious mountains ahead luring me along…..*

*



*​
Well, in the spirit of Evangelicals everywhere I now know the secret of being cool! And I am going to share it!
Take a bike, stick a load of bright, uncoordinated bags on it, dress in the clothing that least resembles "proper" cycling gear and ride your bike between Ojo de Agua and Danlí in the misunderstood but wonderful country of Honduras. In fact you don't even have to ride - get a lift, lean the bike against a railing, and wait. The coolness will be bestowed!
People will be so genuine, so energetic and so frequent with their greetings, their cheers and their encouragement that unless you have a heart of stone you too will feel like the coolest person on the planet doing the coolest thing ever. No matter how hot it is! 

Maybe you're getting sick of reading about this or maybe you think the climbing and heat is finally doing for me but this is going to be another post about how simply wonderful Honduras is being to me and my bike. 

*The Touring Gods flexing their muscles! A new road, a shoulder and a light show!*



​I left far too late this morning but I wasn't in any rush. About 50 km, one big climb after about 15 km and a couple of smaller ones. I lost my shoulder on the edge of town and the road lost its structure. Potholes, cracks varying in size from large to gigantic and a good scattering of gravel, sand and mud convinced me that today would be slow. So bad was the road that there were two separate "crews" supposedly filling gaps with sand and gravel - for a tip. I watched, amused, as one guy unashamedly carried a pile of rocks and stones to dump on the road instead of removing the pile that was already there!

The initial flat section had moderate scenery. There was a continuation of the stone walls I had started to see yesterday. With the cloudy sky, the green landscape if I ignored the heat I could be at home in Ireland.






After about 5 km and passing a small village the Touring Gods laid on the king of roads! Wide, bright and clean with a generous shoulder! Yaaaaaaay! The cherry on top was probably the highest ratio of crash barriers per km that I have seen in a long time! For a cyclist not in a rush they may as well have been sofas!
When I started to climb they added a climbing lane - even less stress for the wandering cyclist!

When I started to climb the countryside started to change. It seemed drier, rockier. But impressive! The road cut through cliffs of great height and impact. This is great country to cycle through - it fires up my imagination. Higher, forests started to take over. Again, I'm spoiled! I love forests!

*I love scenes like these



*​In advance of the big climb I pulled in for some food with a very friendly family. Again, this morning I couldn't face the thought of food. I set off again, smiling in the face of 500 meters up. My body is adapting to the climbing but no doubt the biggest source of my smiles was the combination of perfect cycling conditions, zero time pressures and a continuosly changing, captivating country. I stopped again and again and again not because the climbing was tough (it was) but because of the views and the fact that I had ample places to stop. 

*It's always good to look back from where we came!*



​Since traffic was very reasonable I'd often stand in the road for a different view. This is when the coolness mentioned above kicked in.
Stepping out of the way of an old, battered artic ascending about as fast as I would I caught sight of the driver practically bouncing up and down in his seat in his enthusiasm to wave at me. His wide grin was warmer than the sun trying to scorch through the clouds. 
It felt good. Very good.
And he wasn't the only one. The energy that people put into their greetings is stimulating!
I passed a group of about 20 people spread out on both sides of the road clearing back the bush. The shouts, the cheers, the sheer enthusiasm was bettter than any descent. 
I was cool! 
Going past a cluster of buildings again and again people called out to me. I couldn't understand everything, but the meaning was clear. 
I was cool!

*A sweeping bend! (Unfortunately I was going up!)*



​Earlier, a car had pulled up into the shoulder so adjusting my speed to miss traffic I took the lane to overtake. A few minutes later it's blocking me again. I may have muttered a few expletives but then a hand came out the window holding a carton of juice! 
Dumbass! Will I ever learn?
His wife was quick to tell me that they had disinfected it! 
A quick chat and they were off again.
I was cool! 

The frequency and consistency of these interactions point to something deep and ingrained in the psyche around here. You may not find it in any dry statistics about Honduras but where I have travelled it has been beyond special. 

The big climb was hot and at times very steep but there were barriers galore. Even in high heat, 10% inclines I was grinning like a loon! When the descent came so did the wind! Buffeted I was, sometimes towards the road, sometimes towards the side, regularly backwards and for a glorious couple of minutes forwards! It was so severe, so unpredictable and so gusty I kept my speed well moderated. 
I stopped to enjoy a coffee at an Uno filling station which had a shop that sold everything! I mean everything! They had a glorious model of a sailboat that an eager shop assistant tried to get me to buy.

*There is never a dull moment! *



​After that it was a Honduran descent - it still had some short, sharp climbs through green countryside. It was really very pleasant. 
Coming in to Danlí I pulled into a store for a cold drink and to assess my options. I could have pushed on to a village further down the road but I fancied one last night in a Honduran town. Then the rain came so that really made up my mind. 
I set off again, promptly losing the shoulder and the road reverted to this morning's standard. Not good! 
Heavy traffic had me very cautious and I pulled in to the first hotel that I saw. Fancier than last night it wasn't too much more and despite the unfriendly (male) receptionist I took a room rather than weave through the traffic outside.

A quick warm shower, some laundry and I took a wander into town. Just as dangerous on foot! Footpaths haven't made it this far south! 
Of course, I made for the Park/Plaza, small, a bit rundown but with statues of locals done good. The church, now a Cathedral since 2017 was plain from the outside but with a beautiful, rich wooden ceiling supported by wooden pillars. Beautiful. Two guys were getting ready to carry out repairs on one of the pillars and were busy making a wooden scaffold.
More rain disturbed the rest of my meandering so I hopped into a small restaurant for some disappointing chicken.

*The City of Hills!*



​I'm not a fan of Honduran towns. There is little aesthetically pleasing and the pace can be overwhelming. They are noisey and walking (when a footpath is available) can be an adventure all in itself. I know I keep comparing to México but I felt safer, more relaxed in México. I'm not talking robbery, just general getting around. There's a calmness in a lot of Mexican towns and cities, or an absence of malice. I can still recall the craziness of Mazatlán traffic but I never felt unsafe. 

One thing that is more noticeable than elsewhere is the staring. People stare a lot. Intently.
I'm convinced there's no malice, at least in the vast majority of cases, it's just that I clearly stand out. Without the bike there is no context to place me in. 
If I smile (through my facemask) and offer a greeting it is usually returned. 
I spoke to a young woman from Chicago about this back in Copan Ruinas. She's volunteering in a small village as an English teacher and was offended by the staring, whistling and shouting.
I offered the view that in my experience a lot of it is cultural - I find being whistled at rude but here people call each other by whistling. I'm pretty sure wolf whistling means something else here because a lot of guys have wolf whistled at me! Shouting too, I find is often meant in a friendly way but normally if someone shouts at me I'm on the defensive. I'm not at home anymore.
And the staring? There's not many white people around. It might be considered rude where I'm from, but I'm a visitor and, let's face it, I do look a bit odd most of the time!

*The Cathedral from the Park*



​So, I'm sitting here in a little park on the edge of town, traffic flying by on my last night in Honduras. 
It has been a real surprise, a very pleasant surprise. I can't recommend the place enough for a bike trip - at least the places I have been. It has everything and then some. 
I'm genuinely going to be sad leaving tomorrow. 

*A man outstanding in his field.*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, July 23, 2021, Danlí (Honduras) to Ocotal (Nicaragua) 56 km Total KM 2922
Min meters 653, Max Meters 1227
Total Climb 671 Total Descent 791
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 29

Nicaragua tried to pee me off. Nicaragua failed!

It's one of those ironic things that the one morning I was awake and alert early enough to be leaving with first light that I have a breakfast included in my room rate! And I'm too tight to leave without it! 

I was awake early with a bit of nerves, I suppose. Border crossings can be stressful. My mind wandered to all the things that can go wrong on a 30km trip and the fact that my Covid test expired about 2pm. 
I packed, loaded, made my own coffee and waited for the restaurant to open (6:30). I had my usual eggs, beans and fried banana with two of the teeniest tiniest sausages I've ever seen. 

*Once out of town the traffic lightened, or tended to travel in packs. When I had the road to myself? Glorious!*



​For some reason 80's music is quite popular in these parts and I'll often hear a song as I pass that will transport me back through the decades. This morning over breakfast they played The Bangles' "Manic Monday". Aaaaah! Susanna Hoffs! If there's anything to get the heart pumping it's Susanna Hoffs using her bedroom voice to say "C'mon lets go make some noise"! 
Border? No problem!

The road was busy and crap. There was a shoulder but that was even more crap. On the edge of town some traffic took another road and with each subsequent junction the traffic got lighter. 

*This picture isn't as fantastic as I wanted because the view itself was fantastic. Three pyramid shaped hills, each one behind larger than the one in front and with the bright sun they all seemed surrealy insubstantial. Sorry - you had to have been there, I guess!*



​I had 31km to get to the border, the first 20 flat (Honduran flat) and the last ten climbing 500 meters. 
That first 20km were fabulous. I was fresh, it was cool, traffic got progressively lighter and I flew along! There has been precious little of this "normal" cycling. 
Interesting, occasionally eye catching views but never stunning. Farmland gave way to rocky or marshy scrub but hills and mountains everywhere. 

*Despite the heat everything is so green! Farmland closer to Danli, more wild the further I moved towards Nicaragua. Talk about creating a mood!



*​I stopped for some cold water and then started to climb. At first very gentle gradients, later not gentle at all! 
But the countryside? It was giving me a send off! It was wild, jungley and really, really close! 

I had few places to stop so regularly straddled the bike. Traffic was so light I was no longer worried about the border and besides, this was my last ride in Honduras - I didn't want to miss a thing.

*Climbing now and the sense of the exotic is everywhere! There's something stimulating about riding so close to plants and trees. There were lots of ramshackle huts along here, homes to friendly people with lots of children.*



​A couple of kms from the border the road narrowed - a line of parked trucks on either side. That slowed down my progress whenever any traffic wanted to move - I was expected to vacate the road. At that stage, soaking in sweat and still climbing 10% grades I really didn't mind!
The truck drivers were friendly, one guy even gave me a push! Trucks were being washed and engines exposed for adjustments. I saw enough bald tyres that I stopped looking.






I was pulled by three Police and two soldiers approaching the border. The Guy Police was very officious barking questions and demanding papers. His female colleague was quieter and smilier.
"Where did you cycle from?" she asked. "Danlí", I replied before adding "But I started in Virginia". 
All credit to the woman but she audibly gasped before asking "And all by bike?". "Sí" I replied, thinking to myself that Honduras is making me feel like the coolest dude all the way to the very edge of the country! 

I met a money changer and changed my big notes. My poor head is spinning with all the currencies!
As it turned out I was pulled for no reason. I had to go through the exit procedure at a window. Again, fingerprints, presumably to check I'm leaving with the fingers I entered with!
Two young fellas approached offering to mind my bike while I was busy. I declined but they hung around until they saw I was prepared and didn't need to run from Billy to Jack filling in online forms, printing and making copies.

I was reminded of the old joke of the guy parking his car in Dublin to go to a football match. Approached by a young fella who offered to "mind" his car he casually replied that his dog was in the car and would look after it. Walking smugly away the young lad called out "Hey Mister! Can your dog put out fires?"

Then into Nicaragua.
A guy called me over, checked I had everything I needed then sent me to a medical hut to process my Covid test. Another guy came up and thrust a declarations form at me - what was I carrying etc.

The medical side of things was fine - my temperature was taken by a camera two meters away!
She wanted an address in Nicaragua and I gave the name of the first village. 

Medically fit, I was sent to the immigration container. Yes, a repurposed shipping container. I'd hate to be doing this in the rain!
Two windows operating I waited my turn. No one else did - they kept jumping in front of me. 
The bike was out of sight which was making me antsy.
Eventually my turn.
The lady wanted a phone number in Nicaragua, no, my (new) Guatemalan number is no good. 
With no internet I needed to find a number! I couldn't even make one up as I have no idea of the format. Eventually, about 15 minutes later I stumbled across a number on iOverlander and gave that. 
Feck's sake how ridiculous!
(I subsequently found out there's free Wifi - my phone can be slow to pick up Wifi).
With the phone number of God knows what I could now be processed. Cost US $12. 
I got a little printout but she had no change from my $15. Scam! 
I didn't care - I just wanted back to the bike.
Everything was fine but I still had my declaration form. Apparently I had to hand that in a little ways down the road along with my immigration printout.
I cycled across a big car/truck park did exactly that and pulled up beside a money changer to change my last 50 Lempiras. I had planned to celebrate with a cold drink but now I just wanted away! 

Before I left him I looked in front than back at him and said "I'm in Nicaragua!". He smiled and I rolled off.

*Welcome to Nicaragua!*



​Honduras both greeted me and kicked me out with big climbs. Nicaragua knows how to welcome a bike traveller - a long, long descent, smooth, perfect roads and apparently a ban on traffic! I had it all to myself (well, almost!).

I knew I wasn't in form to properly appreciate where I was after all the feckin' around at the border so I pulled in at the first guardrail and emptied my head. Yes, it took a while, smartasses!

What do people know about Nicaragua? I spoke to a few people at home from Tegus. To a man/woman they all expressed reservations about Nicaragua. I'm pretty sure if they could see me stopped on the side of the road they'd give me gold stars for stupidity but I hadn't a care in the world! 
Stopped, I could hear a veritable orchestra of birds in the wild variety of trees and exotic plants all around me. 
Now I was ready to move on!

With absolutely no rush I took my time. The wind was powerful and unpredictable which would have put a halt to my gallop anyway. The volume of the birds dropped with my altitude. Spotting a shaded bus stop beside a store I pulled in for a cold drink.

Then off again.

*Descending into Nicaragua! Birdsong welcoming me from the trees. *



​On a sweeping bend I pulled off for a smoke, to enjoy the view, to soak up the stillness and munch a few cookies. 
A man appeared from nowhere walking towards me with a machete. He stopped for a chat and we discussed how a place can have an atmosphere that can be felt. Then he continued on walking down the road. 
Don't believe everything you see on the news.

I sailed past a little village, pretty and neat with a bright, but small park beside the road. A load of primary school students, boys and girls, were excited at the sight of the bike, the boys being more vocal. I wanted to stop, visit the little park and chat with the kids but a quick scan revealed no adults around. I don't know if its a flaw with me or the society I come from but the idea of a grown man mixing with Primary School kids is not a positive one. I continued on, second guessing myself.

It wasn't long until I came to Ocotal, my first Nicaraguan town.
iOverlander mentions a restaurant that you can camp at, difficult to find and a bit out of town. I headed for there but on seeing the lane (precipitous drop) I turned around and decided to hit town first. I needed Nicaraguan money.
But first the Park.

*The Park in Ocotal! The friendly coffee lady told me it's the best in all of Nicaragua! I really hope not!*



​It was a case of love at first sight! Colourful, full of plants and trees, well cared for, well used and incredibly calm. I walked the bike around grinning from ear to ear! 
There was a little place serving food with a delightfully pleasant lady who confirmed, after a pause long enough to ket me know she was teasing me, that yes she had coffee. I ordered a couple of little tacos as well. A couple sitting at the only table scooshed over and insisted I join them.

Barely in town and I felt at home! 

My tacos? Alex would have a fit!!
Deep fried (that's ok) but covered in mayo and ketchup. Not a bit of proper salsa or any heat! But, hey, look where I was and how I was feeling - the whole experience was great!

On the spot I made a decision not to camp. It's out of town and I wanted to explore more so after my coffee I set off to find a cheap hotel. Job done I changed and set off to explore.

There's a lack of urgency that I can feel, a little more order than Guatemala or Honduras. It's more relaxing even with some broken roads and dodgy footpaths. I don't think anyone is going to run me down! 

*A bit weary and faded in the outside, a glorious wooden ceiling inside!*



​Outside the park it's Student's Day with some kids in uniforms and others dressed for performance. There seems to be King and Queen students, music is blasting and people are dancing.
Opposite the park is the church, another fine wooden roof inside. Outside a beautiful garden with some amazing trees.

Away from the park the chaos grows, but a less wild chaos than I have witnessed recently. I'm not getting stared at which I approve of. It's nice to just wander and not be made to feel self conscious. 

On the edge of town following the road for a view of the mountains I came across a coffee place. A little relaxation, a little contemplation of where I am is in order.

Nicaragua. 

*A magical tree in the church grounds*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 24, 2021, Ocotal to Somoto Canyon 47km Total KM 2969
Min meters 555, Max Meters 786
Total Climb 708 Total Descent 596
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 33


Back on the PanAmerican and going the wrong way - Honduras, here I come!

With no Susanna Hoffs to get me fired up this morning was a more sedate affair. I didn't sleep great waking a couple of times through the night. The fan, very much needed to keep some air circulating in the small room, was very noisy.

On getting up, a large area enclosed but open to the street had filled with three pickups and several motorbikes - my coffee making area was gone! So I took my gear out to the street and set up on a step. A man working there (who had been sleeping in the same area as the cars) started sweeping the street around the building and we chatted about my stove and need for coffee.

*8:20 am and this is my view! I'm the luckiest chap in Nicaragua!



*​The next problem was getting all my gear out. I had to weave between cars and lift everything, Roccado included, over a couple of motorbikes. Outside I loaded up and headed off into the heat. About 8 am and already 26C. I'm going to melt!

Back on the main road again I was enjoying the early morning, the good surface and the light traffic. I arrived at the small village of Totogalpa and pulled off the main road and went looking for the Church and the park. I'm not in a hurry and recharging my park batteries won't do any harm. I located the rather dilapidated church and the very pleasant, small park. Then I had an idea and went off looking for milk. I was hungry - some breakfast was in order!

*My breakfast view - a pleasant little park with the old church in the background. There are many worse places to eat breakfast!*



​It took a couple of attempts and standing behind a woman who bought a few kilos of rice and a top for her son before I got my milk. A lot of stores you can't actually enter (nor see a lot inside). You ask for what you need through a grille - a great way to learn a language!
Then back to the park for granola, crushed cornflakes and milk. A very pleasant breakfast I have to say.

On the way into the village I passed one of these "Evangelical halls" that have been common since southern Mexico. There was some very pleasant music and singing coming out of it. Leaving town, however, the tone had changed and a man, quite a young man by the sounds of it, had worked himself up into a fit of some righteous indignation. I couldn't really follow what he was saying but it was very far removed from the tone earlier.
Just what do the folks in these villages do to deserve such preaching?

*There may be a few roadshots today but that's because the roadview was just so darn good! And with light traffic for a lot of the time it was mine! All mine!*



​Back on the main road I needed water but bought some juice as well. I guzzled the juice - a mistake - and felt bloated afterwards. My next turn was onto the PanAmerican again! There's a canyon down the road that looks interesting and a town.
I was surprised when I made the turn - my shoulder disappeared! Great surface and luckily not a lot of traffic but it would be unpleasant if busy.

*There are lots of trees lining the road, all kinds of trees. They give character and atmosphere as well as shade and a home to the birds who serenade me as I pass*



​I was finding it hard going. A few climbs, a lot of heat and a bit of a bloated feeling. I adopted my pause at every shade strategy - on both sides of the road. Traffic was light, at least in my direction but I was regularly dazzled by the sun reflecting off the shiny chrome of big trucks.

*Some of the rivers are looking a little low!*



​The road though? Fantastic! There were lots of trees, regularly a canopy of trees ran along the road on both sides meeting in the middle. With little traffic I had a magical road to myself regularly.
People that I met waiting for buses, walking or just sitting outside their homes were friendly. Crash barriers gave me regular places to stop.

*Yes! More trees! Cycling along here is really interesting and fun! It helps that there's no big hills and I can power along!*



​I came to the town of Somoto, named for the canyon (or vice versa) and pulled off looking for their park. I found it easily enough and what a park! Small, compact and like a jungle!
Unfortunately, they were setting up outside for a festival - carnival rides, a stage, big speakers (in addition to a sound system already blasting). I must be getting old but it was too darn loud!

*Ah! Now this is a park!!!! Stepping in is stepping into another world! Despite the noise coming from the setup of the Fiesta this was a cool, calm break from the craziness of the world outside*



​Somoto was an option to stay but with the fiesta I decided to move on. Another few kms down the road is the canyon itself and a couple of accommodation options. Off I went!

*Yes! More trees! But PanAmerican ones! My shoulder is gone! But my smile isn't!*



​The road was fine, the heat was a killer! Gone were my regular guard rails so stopping in the rare bits of shade was trickier. I was finding it tough going and was relieved to finally arrive at my turnoff. My target was a hostel, from iOverlander, run by a Frenchman, but I was intercepted by a very persistent man, Briana, who ran tours, had a hostel and a restaurant right at the junction. The hostel wasn't much, but it was cheap and it looked like I'd have the room to myself. Stay with the locals or a Frenchie in Nicaragua? That's a no brainer!

*This photo has been enhanced to zoom in a bit on the road. I loooooooove how the road rises behind the tree canopy and heads for the mountains. A selfie of me at this time would have had me grinning ear to ear.*​




*Enhanced photo

I'd a very pleasant internet free afternoon reading my book, chatting a little and playing with a puppy. I've had worse days on the road! I'd not really thought about doing a canyon tour but it sounded interesting and since I was the only guest I could specify a time - 8am Sunday morning, back about 11 or 11:30. Time enough to hit the road afterwards.

Later, an American family showed up enquiring about a tour. With no Spanish they weren't making much progress so I assumed the post of translator!!
We're in the twilight zone, folks!😀
They said they'd join me on mine. Fine by me!

*Another feckin' tree? Absolutely! This beauty was in my breakfast park. It has its own spirit! It didn't just speak to me it sang to me*



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (29 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, July 25, 2021, Somoto Canyon to Somoto 14km Total KM 2983
Min meters 671, Max Meters 753
Total Climb 193 Total Descent 218
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 34

Feck it! There's a Fiesta!

I slept reasonably well despite the heat and had a bit if a lie in. Then it was up to make coffee.
I don't think I've ever had such interest in my Trangia! I had to assemble, disassemble, show the fuel, light it (I used my flint causing all kinds of interest!). Even my breakfast of crushed cornflakes and granola with yesterday's milk aroused interest! I was begining to feel like a guinea pig in a science experiment. All pleasant, though.
Then the Americans showed up and we set off.
*Somoto Canyon - I swam there!*​





Wow!
Just wow!
The Rio Coco has carved out this canyon and at this time of the year the river is about 5 or 6 meters below its peak.
We walked, then swam, then walked then took a boat along the canyon.
A fantastic way to see it!

European health and safety officials would have coronaries but I really, really enjoyed it. When it came to swimming for the first time ever I was the first person to totally commit! That never happens!
I'd love to say that it was a consequence of the new, tough, road hardened me but the truth is I slipped on a slick rock and down I went!

*I swam, walked and swam there!*​





There were places for jumping in to the river which I passed on. The two girls did, after some deliberation. Then there was the big one, more than 30 meters! I passed.
I did do a little one, about 2 or 3 meters into a fast flowing channel. I don't like heights, and the dislike seems to grow every year. On top of that I was standing on slippy rocks and kept thinking of whacking my head on the way down.






It took about 5 hours, all told, putting a bit of pressure on me for the afternoon. It would have been faster on my own but the company was interesting and welcome.
Back at the hostel I packed up, ate the included lunch and set off into the heat. I had to double back through Somoto to where I joined the Pan American yesterday. For some reason it seemed a bit easier than yesterday although the climb/descent was similar.

*Look up!*



​Passing a shelter that seemed to operate as a bit of a shop a young woman called out asking for a photo. Why not? I bought a bottle of ice from her (it was water in five minutes!) and she gifted me a coke! 

*Back on a boat! Yaaaaaaay!*




​Arriving into Somoto I was surprised to see loads of activity on the main road - loads of horse activity!
The Fiesta I saw being set up at the park yesterday has taken over the main road. Maybe I was too hasty?
Continuing on I passed an Hospadeje, a cheap guest house. I pedaled on but soon turned around. Cheap, tiny but a chance to see a Honduran horse fiesta!
Off to explore!

*Girl Power! Only 3 Horsewomen needed for the Apocalypse!



*​It wasn't all plain sailing today, though. Going to remove Gizmo (Wahoo Roam) the thingy on the unit that locks on to the holder on the bike broke off. To say I am peed off is an understatement!!!!
I'll log a "ticket" as they say but I've no idea what they can do. I'm not going to be anywhere long enough to get a replacement. I can (and will) try to glue it back in but not sure how good or long lasting that will be. Temperatures are only going up for the next while.
I am still dealing intermittently with Thermarest (absolutely shocking customer service) and now this. Feck's sake - does anyone make a decent long lasting product anymore??

*There were a few of these "giants", a man hidden in the skirts holding her up with a pole. As well as a couple of drummers there was also a guy dressed as a woman (look for the pink). Some of them were not enthusiastic, but this one was born to it! *



​Out on the street I couldn't figure out what was going on!
There were all kinds of horses from scraggly ponies to fine animals ridden by just as varied a group of people. Some seemed to be "clubs" wearing uniforms, some just in regular clothes - but all donning cowboy hats.
A lot of the horses were "dancing" either solo or in groups - a pretty impressive sight.

*Everyone was on a horse, even this little lady!*



​I enjoyed watching the melee, for that is what it was, and Lord help any stranger trying to drive along the road - the horses owned it! Eventually, I figured out that they were slowly getting ready for a parade as a couple of vans pulled up full of musicians.
Knowing that I started heading towards the town centre following the route of the parade - easily done as groups were filling the path to watch.
I had lots of time so hit the park again and then hearing a different kind of music I headed for the route.

*The Parade - Performing Horses and Preening Riders*



​In groups the horses were trotting along, stopping on each corner to dance, to move sideways, or generally show off. It was impressive, but there was a lot of people and that was making me uneasy (Covid). I watched a while and then meandered back to my little room.

For some reason I was surprisingly tired!

*Somoto Canyon - The Postcard!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (31 Jul 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, July 26, 2021, Somoto to Condega 37km Total KM 3020
Min meters 520, Max Meters 768
Total Climb 443 Total Descent 609
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 34

It's Bike Touring, Jim, but not as we know it!

Sleep was relatively easy in such a small room last night. The fact that it was small meant that the effect of the ancient and dilapidated fan was greater than it might otherwise have been. Noise at 4 am had me up to check Roccado was still outside the door.

Last night I had been busy using the wifi to check out a few things about Costa Rica. They are going to require proof of insurance, specifically for Covid and my existing policy won't satisfy them. I emailed my insurance company on the off chance.
The reply was swift and a bit more than I expected - my existing insurance only covers me in Green and Yellow countries! Uh oh!
That's a change since I last checked!
I need to think on this. If I get Covid I have no coverage.

*Trees, a crash barrier - all that's missing is a river, lake or ocean for it to be perfect! Heading off into a road like this ...... What insurance?*



​I got up with a cunning plan. Skip breakfast, hit the road and stop in a small village with a park for breakfast. As cunning plans go it was genius!

After spending ten minutes hunting high and low for my gloves (they were in my ass pocket!) I set off.

Good road, quiet traffic and lots of tree canopy. A pretty pleasant Monday morning. There are a lot of people on the roads these days - walking and cycling. The default way to deal with a hill on a bike is to walk! People invariably smile and offer a greeting, if not spontaneously then in reply to my own.

*There may be a few of these! I am loving riding these roads. 



*​Confession time: I proudly rode past a MTB on a bit of a hill, greeting the rider as I passed. A little later, pulled in for a photo the MTB pulled up for a chat. A lovely elderly man, 70 if he was a day - and I had been so smug on my loaded bike going past!

I reached Yalagüina but didn't turn off for the park at the first street nor indeed the second. I say street, someone else might say wall since they were almost vertical!
Third time lucky, then to the pretty little park with the remains of a fiesta around it - small funfair rides. With a shop beside it I was all set. I bought some bread and set about coffee. I popped back to the shop for glue for Gizmo - shops sell everything here!- but couldn't make myself understood.
No problem, a pleasant breakfast was to come 
While busy, the girl from the shop came over to me, I was able to demonstrate the problem and she returned with a small tube of glue! 
Then the questions started! She ended up sharing my coffee (I used my spare cup again - yaaay!) 

*Nicaragua - not what I was expecting*



​Sometimes (some would say all the time!) I'm not the best listener but I got a bit of a lesson today from my coffee companion.
I'd refer to her as a girl but there was a little boy, three or four years of age who called her "Mamá". 
She wasn't fazed by Virginia to Nicaragua on a bike but was when I mentioned a town 50km away!
What I found hilarious was the fact that she was shocked I had cycled in México - that's so dangerous!!
She wanted to know about the US and expressed a strong desire to go. I told her my opinion of the place, a lot of fear, much less open and friendly than these parts. Money could be made but it was hard, hard work and for immigrants often very tough. 
I used the example of her leaving the shop to follow up about the glue as something that wouldn't happen there - at least not to a stranger.
Then I got my lesson. 
Life is difficult here. Very difficult. 
I'm sure the very last thing she would have wanted was to make me uncomfortable but I was. She told me of people, a woman and a child, risking everything to cross the Rio Grande. Of the long journey to get there. For every news report that we see there are many human stories that are never explored.

It was all well and good for me, the visitor, to wax lyrical about the positive points, as I see them, here, but I don't live here. What's life like in these small places? What are the prospects? The American people I did the canyon trip with yesterday home school their kids because the public system is so poor. What chances do kids have here? 
I passed two buildings today, side by side and I was only able to tell which was the chicken coop and which the home because one was full of chickens! 
It's all well and good for me to waffle on about the friendliness, the openness, the respect to a cyclist on the road but none of those put food on a table or educate a young boy to enhance his prospects.






It was a lovely morning, educational, uncomfortable but also pleasant. Her accent at times was almost incomprehensible, but we got there.
Parks are feckin' great! 

I continued on marvelling at what a lovely road I was on. One pothole! It was so shocking it seared itself into my memory! Frequent tree canopies that didn't just give shade but whole atmosphere! Little settlements of houses along the road, people walking to and fro - all friendly. 

I passed a sign pointing to a park only 3km away. I recalled nothing, checked my maps and saw nothing but the road looked nice - what the hell!
That's how I found Palacagüina a delightful little village with a lovely park and a loose pig wandering around!
I took a walk around and met some yappy students, found a shop and ate lunch in the park. Trangia out, eggs boiled, simple and delicious. Three more students half engaged me in conversation, two girls and a boy. They started in English but quickly lost confidence. 
I could stay here but my maps say the only hotel is on the road I came in on and I didn't see any hotel! I can take a backroad back to the PanAmerican. 






It wasn't far back to the main road but it was quiet, very pleasant and friendly. People call out all the time and while I may not understand everything there's no malice to it.

At this stage there was no point in heading for Estelí. It wasn't too far away but there's a big climb. It's a big town, too, and probably busy. iOverlander tells me there's a cheap hospadeje beside the park in Condega. I turned off to investigte.

*Nicaraguan Backroads. Refreshingly good, interesting and safe. My face and arm muscles carry the greatest risk - of overuse!*



​What a lovely park - again! Full of plants and trees, people and children it's a little oasis of calm. I found the little place to stay - it has a lovely garden and set off to explore.
In fairness, there's not much to these towns. Like others it has a museum but frustratingly, these are all closed. Architecture isn't exciting but Condega has a viewing platform that gives pretty views of the landscape.




​I returned to my room, tried to have a shower but there's no water, did a bit if grocery shopping then plonked myself down in a rocking chair to eat and read.
I'm desperate for some decent bread! Forget what's available in a store or supermarket - it's crap. I bought some rolls in a proper bakery only to discover they were dry and brittle. Not stale, just crap.

*Condega from above* 



​There's free (Political) wifi in the park that my phone picked up as I sat there. Wahoo had responded immediately. There's a new Roam for me, a list of countries (not Nicaragua) all I have to do is tell them when and where. Pretty impressive but not sure how the logistics are going to work out.






The last few days have been very pleasant - short distances, small towns and an approach to planning so laid back I'm almost flat on my back!
I'm enjoying these little towns. There's a lot less staring which is liberating. 
I need to give myself a kick in the ass though as I'm going to need a reasonably accurate timeline for Costa Rica. I'll need to buy their Covid insurance before I approach the border, it's a daily rate which just adds to the expense of an already expensive country. I don't need to do a test, though!







Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, July 27, 2021, Condega to Salto de Estanzuela 46 km Total KM 3066
Min meters 544, Max Meters 1034
Total Climb 777 Total Descent 384
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 29

Nicaragua - the Land of Figaries!

If México is the land of smiles, Guatemala the land of mystery, magic and mountains, Honduras the bike tourist's Paradise, Nicaragua is becoming the land of figaries! 
It's quite possibly some subconscious response to people's reaction that I was going in to Nicaragua (Uh oh!) but I seem to be unable to stick to a plan or a route! I am being guided by what I see and feel and thus far I haven't been let down and I have to say it feels very liberating!

*Is this the day for taking a figary? Feckin' right it is!*



​The Pan American is not proving to be what I expected! I know it's only temporary, but it is lush, green and relatively lightly travelled. I did find myself pulling off a few times today for safety's sake but it's far from stressful. When I have the road to myself, I have birds chirping and singing for company and the occasional pedestrian or cyclist. Passing through more populated areas (I'm talking five or six houses here) I'll get waves and smiles. I hear dogs barking, sometimes ferociously but I don't see them, the only ones I see are lying down too lazy to investigate me. There are very few things to impinge on a bike traveller's enjoyment.

*Is there not something inspirational here?



*​I was up with the sun, had coffee, a little breakfast and set off pushing up a steep hill to get back on the main road. I do miss the craziness of the Mexican mornings! There's something about that chaos that kickstarts me!

The first 10km or so were feckin' glorious! Central American flat (read up and down) but I could power along. Gizmo was slowly rising through the temperature scale but a decent headwind helped keep me coolish.

*There is always something interesting just down the road!*



​Then came an all in one 400 meter climb. I wasn't looking forward to it but these days I'm underestimating myself and it'd be a lie to say it was easy but I got through making good use of the frequent crash barriers for a rest. 

*Up top, a headwind battering me, the road rolling up and down there was life in the old legs yet! *



​Once up, the kickass cycling returned as I crossed an uneven plateau. A different landscape now, more open, but great fun to power along into the wind. A couple of shortish descents required me to use the brakes more than I would have liked because I was going faster than traffic! 

Approaching Estelí I pulled into a pleasant roadside restaurant for a second breakfast. Estelí was to be my destination for the day but it's only 10:30. It's a big town. There are a couple of smaller villages down the road. Accommodation options are sketchy but I'm finding Nicaragua to be comfy, especially the smaller places. Over my coffee I decided to pay a visit to the park in Estelí then to make up my mind to go on or not. 

*Getting frisky with the locals in Estelí*



​The man in the restaurant disagreed with my sentiment that Estelí seemed big - it had everything I could want, he said - malls and banks. I'm not someone who travels to shop!

Estelí was busy and dusty. I found the park which I deemed more of a Plaza because of a lack of trees and greenery. It was pleasant, for sure, but didn't really speak to me so I had a cold drink and had a look on Osmand. I was all set to head off with a view to hitting a couple of villages but iOverlander had a camping option at a waterfall. Rough, but a night in the tent is no bad thing! A bit of climbing though!

*The Park again. Religious statues are common and prominent. Most parks are named for a religious figure. The Black & Red flag is for the FSLN (Sandanista) Political party. There are elections in September, I believe. Flags and slogans are everywhere, almost religious in fervour. *



​I set off again thinking that I was saving myself a lot of stress in the morning by leaving Estelí behind and was surprised when I took my backroad at how good it was! I've become used to backroads being bad, often sand and rock. Not in Nicaragua! Best of all it was still! I had it almost to myself! A few motorbikes and a handful of cars - just me, the birds and some farm animals. And the most amazing collection of butterflies yet! One in particular, metallic blue in colour was huge according to what I'm used to. There he was flitting along the road. 
The hills? Killers! When Osmand goes to 16-20% you know it's going to be tough! 
It would have been if I was in a hurry but since I wasn't I took my time and soaked it up.

*Go on! Have a good look! Follow the road! Dizzy yet? Me & my figaries!*



​I found the place just as the heavens opened. A man let me in and I'm standing in a little hut as the rain pours! I haven't seen rain in days and within spitting distance of setting up the tent......
I have no idea where I am going to pitch since I have no idea what is in this park! I have food and water so I'm good to go. My first night camping in Nicaragua! 

*Bridge of the Mermaid - some creative advertising going on here!*



​When the rain stopped I set off into the park. "Park" is a misnomer - it's a rough road down to the waterfall. Thinking I might camp down there I took the bike - a bad idea!
Going downhill on a wet, gravel, rock and mud road is not fun! At least loaded. Before one precipitous descent I parked up and walked. 
The waterfall is very pretty and I believe I can swim here but I was disturbing two young lovebirds. In any case there was no place to camp. I'd have to return to the gate because the rain wasn't going away.

I got rained on twice as I slipped my way back up. Whatever about going down going up was really not fun!
So heavy was the rain that my hut was looking the best option for a comfortable night.
The young couple at the waterfall stayed down there through the rain. When they finally made it up bucketfuls of rain were falling down and they were soaked through! Not a jacket in sight! (As I sound like an old fart!) Oh to be a teenager again!

*Heading for the waterfall, off the main road, hardly any traffic, birdsong and lots and lots of atmosphere*



​I made a snack and read my book interrupted regularly by any of three boys who came to investigate "el loco con su bici". It was fun chatting, if a little repetitive (they visited one at a time). The youngest was intrigued by my dynamo light, the middle one by my kindle. The eldest, 14, was the easiest to talk to and understand. He told me he'd be afraid to sleep where I was intending. Not because of people, but because of "all the scary things". Knowing a thing or two about fear I tried to explain but it was stretching my Spanish.
Later, the woman of the house came out and set about fixing the leaks in the roof and demanding her husband climb up and rake all the debris off the roof. It was great fun!

Then I cooked up some dinner, tuna, tomato and noodles and went to bed as darkness fell. 
It wasn't what I was expecting, the accommodation would never be described as salubrious, I hardly got to see the waterfall but it was a very pleasant way to pass a wet evening. 

I slept very well.







Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, July 28, 2021, Salto de Estanzuela to San Rafael del Norte 51 km Total KM 3117
Min meters 739, Max Meters 1100
Total Climb 933 Total Descent 860
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 28

Meeting my limits

I slept very well (I nearly always do in my tent) and even the rain hammering off the metal roof didn't penetrate my slumber.

Awake with the dawn it was a tricky morning bit of manoeuvring to get stuff out of the tent due to the confined space and remembering which bag was on which side. But a bit of focus and I was soon brewing up a coffee. 

*Even though I'm not terribly high I still get to feel like I'm playing in the clouds!*




​The bathroom is a drop toilet in a cornfield. Perhaps that sounds a bit rough (Lord knows such things used to seem nightmarish to me) but in the spirit of looking for the beauty in even the most awkward locations I can testify to the calmness of a morning poop looking out over a waving field of corn.

Coffee made I took a wander back to the waterfall to sit, savour and soak. The green pool of last night was now brown after all the rain. But it was mine, all mine. 

Of course, I got to see the morning routine of the gatekeeper's house too. A wood fire burning early, a hunt in the wet corn for eggs. 

*Yes! It really was that steep! A great way to kick my ass into gear!!*



​Setting off I had no idea where I was going to go! Last night playing with Osmand I saw a different, back road route to a town I was going to visit. It ran along a big green blob on the map (big green blobs are generally pretty and interesting) but had some serious gradients - 20% and some unclassified. The road itself was something of an unknown and I'd no internet to investigate. It was a figary that involved doubling back through Estelí.
The other option was back onto the PanAmerican. I'd wait until my junction to decide.

Everyone wanted to talk to me this morning from a harmless old man at the gate of my lodgings to a young girl and boy with a beautiful Shepherd pup. It made the up and down back to the main road very pleasant.

_*Looking down on Estelí*_



​At the junction I surprised myself by turning back towards Estelí and taking the figary! I'd pointed the bike to join the PanAmerican but the feeling that inspired was best described as "Bleh". Sometimes that's how I decide!

*The figary road! I'd no idea what it was going to be like, nor how long it was going to stay like this. *



​I got through Estelí easy enough despite traffic and was relieved to see that the road was paved - the same interlocking blocks as yesterday, if older. Meeting a fruit seller I bought a large banana for my second breakfast and so began the fun! 

Osmand had me well prepped! An even enough road for 10km then a steep jump up. I'd lose all that height and then some before a steep hump then the big, steep climb of the day. Once that was out of the way it was pretty level (for these parts). There'd be a few villages, possibly accommodation options (but none that I could see). I was putting my faith in Nicaraguan back roads (hoping it wouldn't turn to sand and gravel).

Sitting back now, enjoying a coffee I can say it was a very successful if very tough figary.

*Not for the first time I felt immersed in a landscape not just passing through it.



*​If anyone thought I shouldn't be there they kept their sentiments to themselves. It's not as overtly friendly as Honduras, but the friendliness is there. 
A small road weaving along a valley was great cycling (when I could) and a fantastic way to feel where I was. Animals all around from chickens, turkeys and pigs on the side of the road, horses and cattle in the fields (and sometimes not), dogs sunning themselves on the road. Yes! On the road! At first I was horrified thinking I was approaching fresh roadkill but after the first two dogs looked at me as if I was a fool when I pulled up to check on them I learned my lesson. 
Butterflies! More butterflies - everywhere.
And I don't know why today of all days, but the birds seemed to be chirping and singing to me. 

*The surface was a tad bumpy but traffic was rare and travelled in packs. For long stretches I had it all to myself*



​With all the contortions this morning I'd managed to leave my bandana in the tent! Lacking this made me instantly less cool but it also had me crying! Sweat flowed freely into my eyes. Salty sweat! There was a lot of sweat today. 

Once I hit the first steep bits of the first climb I was pushing. I just ran out of gears. I surprised myself by jogging at times. I hate jogging! Yet there I was jogging up the sedate climbs between the monster ones.
It was short and I was rewarded with a lovely, 20km long gentle descent. I stopped for a second breakfast peanut butter and banana on a concrete base for a light. Behind and well below me were some houses hidden in the trees and the sounds of daily life was my mealtime music.

*It even laid on a cliff for me! Across the road is where I had my lunch. In the valley below houses, daily country life my soundtrack*



​The "hump" started at about 30km and parts of this were steeper for longer. It was tough. Hot, heavy and tough. But I was in no rush, at least for most of it. I stopped and savoured. 
Ever since I set off oh so long ago my bar ends haven't matched, the left one being shallower. Today with all the pushing up such steep inclines I needed to fix that!

Running low on water I pulled in to a little store. An angry dog was angry and angrily barked at me letting me know he was angry. A very, very chatty lady led me into her little, dark store for a cold drink and in the darkness I managed to stand on angry dog not once, not twice but three times! Angry dog doesn't bite and we made friends when I sat outside to rest.

*Yes, it's going up, but look at how pretty it all is*



​Getting near the top and the village of La Concordia the sky which had been threatening on and off all morning started to look particularly annoyed and started drizzling. A bit of an incentive to push on! I turned off the main road and down into the village to the plaza/park. I got a cold drink at a stand and chatted to a few guys. While resting up the sky started to clear and with there being no accommodation in this place I decided to head to the next town that did have options. 

A steep descent on tarmac road followed by the monster! Oh dear Lord it was tough! But pleasant! This was showing lots of red in the Osmand profile (never a good thing!) and there was lots of pushing! But the views! A bus broke down behind me - twice! I rested, drank lots and just kept pushing ever upwards. Without a doubt these roads today have been the steepest I have ever done. And that includes Wales!

*If the clouds are behaving there is always something interesting to see. This is the village of La Concordia with the yellow church*



​While resting on a crash barrier a pickup loaded down with bananas (standing more than twice the height of the cab) was inching slowly down the hill. The driver leaned out to make sure I was ok!
Near the top a motorcyclist passed me and made that sign with forefinger and thumb to let me know it was only a teeny tiny distance to the top! At least that's how I interpreted it. If he was suggesting I was less of a man for pushing there was nothing I could do about it!

The peak when it came was disappointing and I cruised down to take my turn off to the village of San Rafael del Norte. A wicked descent followed by another push told me I was going no further. Of the two "hotels" I knew of one turned out to be very fancy! I passed two others - closed and then the heavens opened! I hotfooted it to the Park and yes! A bandstand! Cover from the rain! After the rain I continued along the street, found a little hotel with a small, cheap room and a very pleasant lady to check me in.

I've written this up sitting on their terrace watching local life parade up and down past me. A rottweiler ran up the road chased by a fine German Shepherd and a few minutes later the Rottweiler chased the Shepherd down. Anyone with an inkling of dog behaviour saw two dogs playing and having great fun.
A car drove by with a guy sitting in the boot leading a horse! Kids have come from both ends of the street to slyly have a look at the Gringo. The boys are either all bravado or too shy to talk, the girls more sociable.

Over my coffee I was pondering why is it here in Nicaragua that I am touring in my more traditional style - not a fixed route, stopping off to prepare food. I just feel very comfy here!

*Still the stone walls*



​ Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (3 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 29, 2021, San Rafael del Norte to Aguas del Arenal 47 km Total KM 3164
Min meters 989, Max Meters 1576
Total Climb 1027 Total Descent 819
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

A day of two halves; Part I

There are times when being a solo traveller is the best thing in the world. There are times too when the "solo" can feel heavy. With a buddy or a group we can tap into someone else's energy, solo? Not so much. We have to gee ourselves up. For a myraid of reasons I needed a bit of geeing up today.

Well, last night was interesting. A couple of powercuts after dinner made a bit of a mess of my one night of wifi in a while. Then later, a total powercut for the night left me with a dead phone and a fan that didn't work! Rain pounding on a metal roof (there is always a metal roof!) brought the temperature down so falling asleep I was cooking, by 3 am I was cold. Everything came back to life sometime after four scaring the bejaysus out of me and left me sleepless after that.

*Such a tree was interesting today, whereas normally it would inspire awe.



*​I got up to gloomy, threatening skies, got slowly packed, checked the weather forecast (for the first time in ages - it looked that poor!) then decided to have breakfast. Dinner had been great breakfast should too. It wasn't bad but the receptionist who I'd complimented and got on well with tried to stiff me on my breakfast bill by "needing a moment" to get change then disappearing, presumably hoping I'd feck off. She picked the wrong person to try that on. I had tipped at dinner and made a point of complimenting both the chef and the waitress. Ditto breakfast. 

*I passed a lake. Fried fish restaurants replaced the usual chicken restaurants. The land hereabouts was relatively flat and heavily farmed. Thick, almost black soil had been recently ploughed. I saw a couple of tractors which are a very rare sight in these parts. Most farm work is done by hand. I saw more teams of oxen than tractors, though.*



​It's funny how a thing like that can set a mood so I set off if not grumpy, certainly not full of the joys of life. I think that when going forward into unknown places there's a comfort in knowing I can return to where I was, but that comfort was now gone.
A ferocious wind, scary skies and a bloody big ascent up to the road didn't help. And the elevation profile ahead of me? Scarier than young fellas hopping out of cars in Guatemala City! 

*This row of trees which would normally stick an ear to ear grin to my face were "nice" today*



​In fairness the first kms were Central American flat - up and down. I'd get to Jinotega and then the real climbing would begin! 
I surprise myself on these "flat" roads as I power along and I really enjoy the sensation of moving as opposed to labouring slowly upwards.
The wind, however, was causing problems, blowing me left and right. The most sustained wind issues in a long time.
As I was going along a voice in my head was saying "Jinotega. Stop there. Do the climb tomorrow". I just wasn't feeling it.

*Another tree that was more meh than wow*



​I wasn't feeling it in Jinotega either. Busy, loud and lacking something. The park was meh, although easily found. There just was no reason to stay. Nothing spoke to me, I'd just be bored. As I pushed the bike along a street (I often push in towns to soak them up, to get a feel for them) a guy appeared out of nowhere beside me babbling on about my tyres and air. I had the distinct impression he was trying to distract me for some nefarious reason. That settled it. 

So I climbed out of town, pulled into a supermarket and after the intervention of a guard had to leave my bike a long way from the door. I was a tad antsy going in. A flying shop to get back out I was stunned at the cash register. As a treat I'd thrown in a small pot of Nutella. The price made my eyes water! 
Outside I set about loading my supplies and did something dumb. I put Mazi to one side, then moved the bike for more stable loading then forgot to put him back on! 

*That'd be the rain coming in!*



​I set off into a 500 meter climb.
Not in the best of form I was finding it tough going. In fairness, parts were very steep for sustained periods. Decent crash barrier distribution and shade (the sun was out) gave me regular breaks.
About 300 meters up I pulled in for a roadside lunch. That's when I missed my buddy.
There was no "Hobbesian" mental flight back to the last known location. There was no race to fly down the hill. Just a sad acceptance. I cursed myself for my carelessness but the truth is he wasn't Hobbes. I could never conjure up the same excitement when I put him in a photo as came naturally with Hobbes. I've actively included him in more photos since CDMX but the "connection" just wasn't there. It felt more like a chore than a pleasure. 
I don't know if it's a sign or not, but yesterday when I had Internet there was a message from my friend who made Hobbes reminding me he was 7 years old!

*The view looking down on Jinotega*



​So, in a grumpier mood I set off again. The views were good but not inspiring. Traffic was light and friendly. But feeling? Nothing. Even the high point was bleh with no view worth talking about. I was seriously doubting my destination now - a place to camp from iOverlander, off the main road and tricky to find. With the way my day was going I was sure the road would be horrible and the rain clouds were back!

Reading back the next day that is not a fair description and a good reminder of how my mood can influence everything. 
One thing that struck me on the climb was the "texture" of the landscape. There were layers and layers to it. A completely uneven landscape, different crops side by side, wild tree copses dotted around, contrasting colours and shades within shades all pointed to something new to me - I was just having a problem feeling it.

*Texture!*



​I stopped at a roadside comedor for a bit of lunch at the same time as four Police officers. Basic, but tasty, my main attention was on the armoury of two of the Police - ancient, battered and not functional looking machine guns of two types. No straps so they were placed on the table, then on the floor while they ate. When they left the four climbed on two motorbikes and headed off.

*Texture! And feckin' rain!*



​Then it rained! Not as hard or as heavy as it can be here, but enough to make me wet and cold. I did stop when it lightened and was amused by steam rising off the road. Now there's a bit of atmosphere! If the road to the camping place was tricky I'd have a long, hard slog to the next town.

*After Jinotega the climb had me in the trees. Normally the sensation of being swallowed up by nature is exciting and an incentive to climb up to the next bend...*




​I'm going to end this here. 
Part II will follow.

*I write this travelogue for me. I have an audience of 1 when I sit down and try to put form to my ideas. I love the Chat thread because it feels like a community and it can fend of the loneliness that sometimes descends, but this Travelogue is mine.
The fact that I have an audience only has two influences;
I am more likely to moderate my language 
It instils discipline.
Today, I was very glad of an audience since it was probably the only reason I took so many photographs. Looking back on the photos I realise how much my mood had blotted out the beauty, the interesting and the "bigger picture". The reality was there but was being perceived through gloomy filters.

Without the Travelogue and the pictures my perceptions would have been too gloomy. 

Thank you.


*More texture. The thought did cross my mind at just how tough it must be to work these fields. Planting, tending and especially harvesting must be slow, backbreaking work.*





Chat? Yes Please!​https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, July 29, 2021, San Rafael del Norte to Aguas del Arenal 47 km Total KM 3164
Min meters 989, Max Meters 1576
Total Climb 1027 Total Descent 819
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

A day of two halves; Part II




​Sometimes a day can flip simply by taking a different road. Today was one of those days! 

*Hmmmmm. What's down here?*



​I arrived at the turn off and yes, it was rocky, but it was doable. Then the sun came out! Then I was riding on magical, Nicaraguan backroads!

*Ooooh! An interesting tree!*



​It was only about 5km but those kms spanned a huge mental distance. My spirits lifted, then soared. I still didn't know if I'd find the place but I no longer cared! This wasn't a "Wow! I'm in Nicaragua" moment, it was a "Wow! This is an amazing part of the world" moment!

*The sun is coming out, the sky is turning blue!*



​I met young fellas walking, on bicycles, on motorbikes, all "armed" with machetes, all friendly, if a bit bemused by the eejit on a loaded bike. 
I saw views and heard birds and other animals that welcomed me to another world. A beautiful world. A calm world. 

*I've tried to caption this. And failed. The sun, the shade, the "adventurous road", the exotic trees, the blue after so much grey.....*



​I stopped and savoured. I felt. I decided to study photographic equipment with a view to designing the best camera in the world - what I saw in my phone was a poor, poor relation to what was all around me! 

*Take a moment and consider that this photo is a Lidl/Aldi knockoff of what I actually saw (no offence to the Germans!)*



​Back on the main road a weak, insipid, whingey, moany cyclist was dropped and here an explorer, curious, brave and inspired was bouncing along. What a change!

*Adventure!*



​Of course, I got lost but two helpful women put me back on the right path. They were taking a shortcut through a field and when I rounded a bend they were waiting for me to make sure I took the correct turn! I could have hugged them for such a simple, generous act.






I found the place, was made most welcome and pitched my tent on grass for the first time in ages. Even the rain after couldn't dampen my mood. I am in a special place! 

*Home has its own pond!*






*Mi casa*




​*I hope you can now understand why I split the day into two posts😊

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Aug 2021)

Some more odds & ends…..

*Guatemala & Honduras had several signs like these promoting the funding and expertise received from the EU, often with an input from a specific country.*
_*Projects appear to be sustainable (for example developing tourism in remote places) and countries share their expertise (Austria for promoting mountain lake tourism).
The Covid sign was outside the Spanish Embassy in Tegus, Honduras.*_
*I haven't seen any such signs in Nicaragua.*​







*This giraffe is from a small hotel and is made completely from tyres! There is a very strong attitude of repair and reuse here and I can find it a bit dispiriting at times to see people's homes held together with not much more than rope, and bits of rope at that. It does the heart good to see something created from waste for purely artistic and aesthetic reasons.*






*Since México I have seen many trucks and trailers with US branding - not just big names but Acme Fruit Suppliers from SmallTownMidAmerica. It's clear that there is a market for used (and very used) US trucks and trailers. Clearly they are shipped without even receiving a coat of paint to cover the original branding.
While Gatorade is available here, I find it hard to believe that this trailer is actually carrying Gatorade.*






*No doubt you have noticed many photos suffering "electric cable in the frame" utis. Urban areas the electrical (and other) cabling can be scary!*







*Every town has its own irrigation systems for all the rainwater. Since México it's advisable to get used to what they are before progressing too fast. Such is the volume of water they need to cope with that grates have to be big!*






*Guatemalan and Honduran shoulders tended to be like this - a different height to the road but a regular "weave" that required dropping down or scaling on a regular basis. Going down was no problem, going back up could be tricky. High enough to cause problems if approached too gently, it was best accomplished by turning almost perpendicular to the road. Timing was key to not giving drivers a heart attack!*






*After getting eaten alive in the tent in Honduras! And that was the good leg - the other was worse!







There can be terrifying drains on the side of roads, tour ending to a complacent cyclist.






Bridges can be tricky! Judging by the lack of railing I'm not the only one to think so! In fairness to Nicaragua, their bridges have been excellent!*






*Motorbikes are a major form of transport in these parts. The loads they carry can be terrifying, at times.*
_*The school run isn't in an SUV, it's Mamá or Papá with one, two or three kids on a motorbike!
Water, gas cylinders and milk churns are carried on motorbikes.
I've seen ingenious trailers attached.*_
*I would have thought machines like this would be more popular but people stick with the tried and tested. ATVs are very rare. In the mountains, the motorbike is king.*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Aug 2021)

Friday July 30

It wasn't my plan but I stayed an extra day!

*These trees are quite common around here. There's something very familiar yet different about them that I really like*



​I know now what they mean when places are described as "teeming with life"!

I had a lazy start to my day enjoying coffee grown, roasted and ground in the place I was staying. Delicious!

*My morning coffee vantage point. 



*​They have a couple of Shepherds, the youngest full of life and teeth! Playing with a playful dog - there's not much better!

*Flashes of Nature's vibrancy everywhere*



​Then I took a wander along some of the walking routes in the place. I can now say that I have been in the jungle!




​It was fabulous, interesting, varied, mushy, smushy, dirty, filled with smells and sounds and silence. 




​I don't think I walked for much more than about 5km and sat for an hour on an old tree trunk just watching all the animal activity around me - small animal activity. I've never seen so many different types of jumping insects. I was exhausted!




​Imagine if we could train ants! I've been watching them since México and they are fantastically industrious creatures! They never seem to rest, carry huge loads incredible distances. 

*Look up! Always look up!*



​The afternoon was spent reading and drinking coffee. And relaxing. There was an aura to the place that encourages calm.

*Young coffee!*



​A simple, delicious dinner and I was in bed for 8:30. The simple life.






*If all that sounds boring that's my fault. It was a glorious location with friendly hosts. I'd be afraid to return in case a new visit would damage the perception I have of the place. Beautiful without being contrived, naturally calm and some great home produced coffee!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, July 31, 2021, Aguas del Arenal to San Ramon 32 km Total KM 3196
Min meters 649, Max Meters 1459
Total Climb 551 Total Descent 1177
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

They call it rainy season for a reason!

I generally try not to pick up strangers on my travels but last night I had company!
A large toad made itself at home under the fly of my tent. In the spirit of being a visitor in strange lands I did not try to move them on (nor did I try anything to see if there really was a princess in there!). Their croaking was my lullaby.

*One reason for not being in too much of a rush was that I was facing into this steep bugger!*



​I slept very well and was awake with the sun - and drizzle.
I got up and made coffee and realised I didn't want to leave. I also realised that if I stayed I might never leave! Everywhere I looked there was beauty, not an obviously planned, strategic beauty, more a random beauty.
Breakfast was a couple of bananas and the last of my peanut butter.
Because of rain I kept postponing breaking down the tent but in the end had no choice but to go for it.

I packed up, donned rain gear and set off climbing the rough roads that brought me to this paradise. Tough, yes, but very pretty at times, even in the wet. I stopped and savoured often.

*A bit dull and drab perhaps but the climbing had me warm and there's always something mysterious in the mist*



​Back on the main road I was hit with a wet wall and a short, steep climb. My view was of grey mist. Everywhere.

I set off down the other side and had ocassional glimpses of valleys where it wasn't raining. Where I was? It was pouring!

*At the main road the mist stopped being so inspiring!*



​I did take a turn down a rough road to an area that had lakes. With all the rain a coffee wouldn't go amiss. After a few kms downhill I came to a barrier restricting access. A guard, sitting in a hut playing with his phone looked up, saw me then returned to his phone. Fuming, I turned around and used the frustration to power back up to the main road.

*A mini-figary. Ultimately disappointing but a lovely ride*



​The first big town was Matagalpa and as I descended towards it the rain stopped and the sun came out. I passed a long line of tin shacks on the side of the road. My destination was a good 60km further on and I could have avoided the town but I pulled off to investigte. In any case I needed some cash. 

*I want to be over there!*



​I located the main Plaza/Park easily enough after passing through some heavy traffic. It was a noisy town! Lots and lots of horns for a start (not all directed at me!) and speakers blasting out music and ads.
I located a bank and joined a queue for the atm.

*Showing potential.......*



​By now it was raining again and my spirits were dropping fast. I spied a café, grabbed a coffee and jumped on their Wifi. One of the first emails I opened told me that México is closing its land borders. That's not a good sign. I also was able to establish that there are no direct flights from Nicaragua to the US and that there is only one place in the country to get a Covid test! And it's five times more expensive than other countries! Covid is not a big thing in Nicaragua. 95 people have died. At least according to the Government!
It didn't help my mood.

*After a tough (in every sense) climb out of Matagalpa things started to improve *



​A part of me wanted to stay and do a bit more research, but the larger part of me wanted to get out of town.
There was an edge I didn't like. I was badgered by several people for money, one guy being quite intimidating by alternating demanding money and looking significantly at the bike.

Out of town I went. Up a long, steep hill in the rain on a broken road with broken speedbumps and heavy traffic.
If I haven't mentioned it, as well as the proximity of traffic, there is the sheer volume of the racket they make, especially on the hills and then there are the fumes that are suffocating. Because of traffic lights everything came together so I took to cycling in the gaps.

I don't know why it is, but the heavy traffic in towns and on their edges seems to dissolve once the town is left behind and so it was with Matagalpa. The sun even came out!

I was away from the PanAmerican and soon to turn off onto another back road. Mother Nature had another shower for me first, though but then bathed me in sun when I turned off. Then the Touring Gods threw in a gentle, but steady descent. 
Now this was cycling! There was little traffic, although the buses were a tad aggressive. Just when I thought everything was looking up I got hit with another shower. Only a few minutes but soaked through - again! 

*Between the showers? Feckin' Fabulous!*



​Spying a roadside restaurant I pulled in for a bit of lunch and delayed my departure for more rain. It was getting ridiculous now! 
Bright sun, then rain. Rinse and repeat.
I arrived into the little village of San Ramon and thought enough already as the rain started again.

*If it wasn't dripping water it was dripping character and atmosphere*



​I wanted to camp another 40km down the road but the constant cycle of soaking then drying is not good fun! I found a hotel but it was closed and went off looking for another - up an almost vertical road. I got a decent rate and good wifi, had a shower and went to go explore the village - more rain! And so it was for the rest of the day. Rain, rain and more rain.

*There are some wonderful trees in this part of the world*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 01, 2021, San Ramon to Muy Muy 54 km Total KM 3250
Min meters 262, Max Meters 644
Total Climb 633 Total Descent 801
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 32

Not what I expected

Normally I can blank out external noise but last night the music emanating from somewhere down the hill was so loud and so bad I had trouble falling asleep. To add injury to aural stress I woke up sometime about two and slept very fitfully after that.

Up at 6 I brewed coffee and packed up.
My rear tyre seemed a tad soft last night so I had pumped it up. Checking this morning I couldn't be sure if it had deflated any so set off slowly down a ridiculously steep road back to the town.

*Heading generally South the sun can really mess with taking photos.*



​There was no comparison to yesterday! Yes, there were lots of clouds, but these were white and well broken up with beautiful patches of blue. In actual fact, it was more like an animation since the wind was strong and treating the sky as its playzone.

My route today would head up then tend downwards with the inevitable climbs thrown in for good measure. This would bring me to my lowest altitude since near the Mexican coast. The road seemed very quiet and most of the traffic, at least the truck traffic, was coming against me.
The wind was very forceful at times, though.

*I got to see that peak from all angles*



​The landscape here is a pretty without being spectacular, but always interesting. The land has texture - hills within hills, curves within curves. Colours, especially the greens seem to bleed, merge and form new shades. Look closely and I'll invariably see a rogue colour, a red or a blue or a purple from some other plant. Throw in the wind teasing the sun with clouds the landscape can seem vibrantly alive and active.
It's mountain land, though, and not very productive. Cattle can be spread across a large area but pass close to them and the ribs are prominent.

*Taking a breather at the top of a hill*



​The real value for the wandering cyclist is in the big picture. A generally good road (although with random parts that are atrocious) sweeps and curves up, down and around the lumpy landscape, bringing me right through it, showing different perspectives of the same tree or hill, all the time with the sound of birds. Down low the chirping and singing is more familiar to me.

*Not spectacular, but certainly interesting*



​I'm well off the PanAmerican and won't be back on it for a few days yet. This is off the beaten track for bike tourists (as far as I know) and my bike and myself seem to be less familiar sights.
There's no hostility but little in the way of displays of friendliness. This being a Sunday lots of people are on the road walking and my greetings garner not a response. Even labouring up a hill - normally good for a sympathetic smile or a joke - inspires nothing. Kids, unusually, are quiet too.

*Quiet, interesting, flat. Pretty good cycling!*



​I pulled in for breakfast at a simple roadside comedor to a chilly welcome. A couple of thick corn tortillas, cheese and sour cream. No napkins, no cutlery! Messy!
I had a coffee too and was charged what I believe was the "Gringo" price. A group of five having had the same as me (it was all that was on offer) were charged 30 Cordobas a head. Mine was 50.

*That peak again!*



​Gently descending I noticed two things - a rising temperature and a mushy rear end. Stopping to pump up the latter resulted in increasing the former!
Truth be told, this was one of the reasons for a shortish day yesterday - I was apprehensive of the heat.
Perhaps it's not as bad as I think, just a combination of a poor night's sleep and the heat. Hopefully tomorrow will clarify!






My destination today is another figary and the main reason for taking this road. It's outside a small village (Muy Muy) and is another coffee/banana farm that has cabins and camping. Apparently, there are monkeys in the area too!
Of course, to get to it, I have to get up (lots of up!) a crappy road.

Coming to the edge of the town of Muy Muy I pulled into a comedor for lunch. Afterwards my rear tyre was flat as the proverbial pancake. I'd pumped it up three or four times on the roadside so took advantage for a proper repair. A sliver of wire was the cause. I've no glue! It appears the heat killed it!

*I know it rains a lot but in this heat the greens really amaze me.*



​I turned off the main road for a 5km trip down a side road to my destination. That was the plan! It was up! And up! Involved fording a river and ever decreasing road quality.
There were some fabulous trees and higher up some good views but precious few places to park a loaded bike - lots of barbed wire was in use.

It was a soggy, exhausted lump of jelly that finally landed up at a farm that offered showers, electricity, kitchen, wifi and places to camp. Sounds like bliss, no?

Well, it would be but that wasn't the reality.
Not exactly a warm welcome, confusion, not a hint of any facilities (I think they were housed in a separate building which was locked) and nowhere to pitch a tent that was even and not overgrown. I'd be soaked and probably eaten alive. I was low on fuel so was depending on the kitchen. After having a good look around with a falling sense of satisfaction I finally asked for my money back.
That was another thing - it was as expensive as my hotel last night!






I set off back down the mountain! The views did their best to cheer me up but I was still a bit disappointed. Truth be told this place is what had pulled me away from the PanAmerican - there was a chance to see monkeys!

I had to re-ford the river - it was higher now, and faster and as if to show why the heavens opened as I was crossing it. A little later I met a drunken Cowboy who I couldn't understand but seemed to be asking for money for beer.

I have to say, however, that my camping diversion was a very pretty diversion. There are some wonderful trees in this part of the world. Some big, ancient mighty ones, others smaller and younger. A lot of trees seem to be homes to other plants.

Back at the edge of town I headed for the Park to restore my sense of calm. It worked! Simple, colourful and quiet! I'd passed a couple of accommodation options (although one was closed) and discovered another by the park and away from the chaos of the road. Closed too!

I set off back the way I'd come as I remembered passing an ok looking place on my way in. Cheaper than the campground I took a room and ate in a buffet place next door.

All in all, it was very far removed from my hopes for the night.

*The Park in Muy Muy, balm for a frustrated soul*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 Aug 2021)

A sneaky extra post dedicated to yesterday's excursion up to the campground!


*Heading off the main road*






*Lots of wonderful trees*







*Fording a river! That guy was cleaning his motorbike. When I asked him how deep it was he walked through showing me the best route! On the way back it was higher and faster.*








*A Tolkien Tree!*






*Other plants grow on the trees here, often adding a whole new colour, or colours the palette*








*Getting higher!*








*And higher!*







*Another Tolkien Tree*














*The best part of the "Campground"*






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, August 02, 2021, Muy Muy to Empalme de Boaco 65 km Total KM 3315
Min meters 228, Max Meters 440
Total Climb 784 Total Descent 890
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 30

A good day for cycling, a bad day for photos

I'm not made for hot weather! My night's sleep left me drained in the morning. I've no idea if I dreamed but I felt like I'd been active all night. And it was late!
Last night I'd decided to pack up, head for the park and brew up my coffee there. The only option here was on the side of the road. Now with the time that wasn't looking likely.

I got up, packed and had breakfast in the buffet place next door - the same options as for dinner last night! 
Being approached by a drunk man at 8am is not my ideal way to start the day. He wanted money but continued to touch me and step close to me despite my, at first, requests then warnings to stay away.
I've been approached by people wanting money since México but here I'm finding it pushy, intimidating and pretty much always for booze.

*Cloudy mornings can be tricky. The lack of direct sunlight means I don't burn, but the cloud cover seems to trap and increase the humidity. Combine that with a climb and the result is sweat!*



​A big hill out of town had me huffing and puffing but I was soon into a pretty good cycling territory. Most other days I'd be beaming but I was finding it hard to get in my groove today. 
The road, though, played its part! Rolling hills, steep, for sure, but close enough together to sweep down and rise up the other side without slowing to a crawl. Usually. I learned early on not to lose momentum or I'd suffer - so, for once, I concentrated on cycling through the country and not on recording it. 

*Now the sun is out!*



​There were long straights, up and down, sharp curves and always rich, green canvases to enjoy. The road was excellent except for when it wasn't but I could reasonably predict those sections and the ones I couldn't just added to the fun.
Traffic was light which added to the pleasure and I passed through many small settlements (too small even for villages). Sullen wouldn't be the right word, maybe disinterested is the best description. Eye contact was actively avoided, greetings ignored. For the first time ever on my travels people physically shied away from me and adjusted or put on face masks!

*A road for sweeping along.....*



​I passed a few cattle ranches with buildings in a style and function familiar to me but smaller. I also passed several small herds of cattle grazing on the ample verge in each case a red flag to warn traffic and a man watching over them. That was interesting in itself. Normally when I've seen this before (with only a few cattle or sheep or goats) it's women and or children doing the tending. Maybe an old man. Here it was fit, young men.

Boaco was my first possible place to stay and at about 8km from there at a turnoff I pulled in for some lunch. A very pleasant lady served me rice and fried pork just as the heavens opened. I had a coffee to pass the time until it stopped. Coffee here is served black and very sweet. So sweet I was developing a headache. 
It had drizzled on and off a couple of times, light enough not to bother me. This was different!

*Rolling, Rolling, Rolling......*



​Going again everything was fresh and clean and the temperature was pleasant for about five minutes - then the cloying humidity started to take over. I turned off for the centre, or at least the park, and weaved my way through the less salubrious parts of town, passing the one hotel that I knew of. It is a hilly town. Very hilly! With about 200 meters to go to the park I had seen enough! The climb was almost vertical and I had had enough of the noise and the traffic. 

*When it rains it really, really rains!*​





It's a nice town and another day I'd be thrilled to go and explore but today I wasn't feeling it and besides the only hotel was a long way back. My immediate future has been swirling around in my head the past few days and I want to get on the internet and start to put some form to my thoughts.
I turned to get back on the main road. There I saw a welcome sign declaring that Boaco was the city of two levels! Basement and Penthouse if you ask me.

This is where things got interesting because I had minimal info on accommodation options further down the road. iOverlander had a hotel further down the road, Google another even further away. There's no telling if they still exist!
(There were serious disturbances in Nicaragua in 2018. Foreign tourists fled for the borders. The tourism industry has not recovered and while Nicaragua might be effectively ignoring the Pandemic tourists are not. A lot of places are closed. iOverlander, too, is lacking in up to date information. Each listing shows the last time someone was present).

*Rivers are getting bigger and are always brown due to all the rain*



​A bit of a climb after the town was bliss - almost no traffic and just birds for company. Threatening skies kept me rolling along. I experienced the texture I've been noticing on the hills for myself! Descending a decent hill there was a descent on the descent! The bike dropped away from me - or so it felt. Like in an airplane that suddenly drops my stomach flew up! A bit of a shock but fun! On km64 I came to a crossroads and a hotel. 
Steve Earle sings of a speedtrap town and this was one! It's not much more than a crossroads and it has a speed trap - a guy in the bushes with a radar gun and opposite a very pretty female Police officer so bored she's standing with the muzzle of her machine gun in the dirt! 
I enquired about rate & internet and booked in. Better the divil I know......

*Very pleasant cycling - so long as I didn't stop! *



​I had a cold shower and went out to explore the crossroads. I tried the only shop that didn't sell food for alcohol for my stove but Señor Grumpy didn't want to listen. I need petrol he told me.
I did buy some eggs, tortillas and a banana for breakfast though. This morning was bleh and the rest of the day followed suit. Not tomorrow!

*After the rain..... A little bit of bliss. Cool, fresh and little traffic*​





I wasn't that hungry but headed for the hotel restaurant because that's where the wifi is. I ordered chicken (it was all they had) and asked for the Wifi password. The fecker looks at me and says "No internet". It was the grin that did it.
I got very angry, very quickly. This is the same guy who told me yes when I was checking in and who told me at my room it was too far away to work. The restaurant was better. Normally, I don't give two hoots for WiFi but right now there's a lot of balls in the air.
I cancelled dinner and went off to calm down. 
I ate a chicken dinner elsewhere (while a chicken and some chicks pecked around my feet) and tried the local Internet cafe. No access for my phone and I'm reluctant to open up personal accounts on some random pc.

*It may not be spectacular but it can be very pleasant country to cycle through*



​I'm not too far from Costa Rica as the crow flies and I need to arrange Covid insurance for well before I enter. That requires entry and exit dates. Right now Internet access is pretty important! 

A walk and a chat with myself calmed me down. Tomorrow, I'm taking another figary, more backroads and along a lake to the town of Granada. It's a popular tourist town but I should be able to find a place with decent access and get myself organised. 
I have the makings for a decent breakfast so hopefully that'll set the tone for the day! A long day, most likely a hot day but there's water! It's been a while since I cycled along water!

*On my way to the hotel with no wifi!



*​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, August 03, 2021, Empalme de Boaco to Granada 88 km Total KM 3403
Min meters 29, Max Meters 346
Total Climb 349 Total Descent 425
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 32


I'm back in Holland!

Staying where I did last night worked out well, not because of the wonderful accommodation but because I changed my route!
Frustrated, and with an urge to accomplish things I took out Osmand and had a look. 
I was intending to head towards the Capital, Managua then turn off to Granada on the shores of a big lake. I was feeling very grumpy and that route wasn't suiting me. I could expect more traffic and I wasn't in the mood. Osmand offered a different solution that meant more backroads and actually cycling along the lake. I decided to sleep on it.

*Early morning, Nicaragua. Not a bad place to be!*



​Up at 4 (it was going to be a long day, whatever way I went), I made coffee, boiled eggs and generally did things to put me in the right frame of mind.

At 5am the local priest started saying Mass - I know this because it was amplified! Ah, the poor man sounded depressed. 

At 6am (I waited for sufficient light) I set off - in the wrong direction to where I thought I was going yesterday. Feck it, another figary!

*There's always a splash of colour!



*​A bit of a climb then I'd be losing all my meters. A climb first thing in the morning is a good way to kick start the day! Once that was out of the way I was loving it!
Still cool.....ish I was powering along. I can't describe how good it feels to be actually cycling as opposed to labouring ever upwards. The countryside was interesting, lots and lots of subtle variety, rich, rich greens and the light working magic on lush hills and craggy rocks. Traffic was minimal and I met lots of folk on the roads - farmers driving cattle for milking, kids walking to school. Not for the first time I felt a part of a place as opposed to a transiting observer. The further I travelled the more people were likely to respond positively to my greetings. But it's relative - yesterday no-one did, today, maybe one or two out of ten. 

*It really is quite pretty!*



​I stopped in the little town of El Papayal to get some fresh, cold water and eat a little second breakfast. From here I was heading into the unknown!
I took the turn onto hardpacked earth through a residential area then after a km or two the road became concrete - absolutely perfect! 

*Not a bad road, at all!*



​I was flying now, cruising in the high 20s kmh, into the 30s if I put a bit of effort into it. The road was now effectively flat and even though there was a headwind it was keeping me cool.
At one stage I even questioned my apprehension about riding in these conditions (low, hot and humid) but had to remind myself it was only 8:30 in the morning! 

I even had crash barriers to pull up to! There was a lack of shade though. Again, I can't describe just how much I was enjoying just pedaling, making progress and making ground! This was flat land, very flat and a large rice growing area. It was so flat, so green and so well irrigated that I could have been back in NL - complete with headwind!
Traffic? What traffic? There was hardly any. A lot of bikes, though. A lot more than I've seen in the mountains.

*Where are the mountains??!!*



​The only glitch in my figary was in the town of Malacatoya when a new road wasn't in Osmand and it tried to send me through a river. I pulled into a shop, guzzled some cold water and realised what was going on. I rested awhile, then set off again, around a big bend, a new bridge and Gizmo was happy again.

*Even in the flatlands there are interesting trees*



​I crossed a big bridge and after that I should have had the lake to my left. It was but I couldn't see it!
I passed through an extended residential area stretched along both sides of the road.
It seemed that the further I got away from town the sturdier the structures became, incorporating blocks but the first ones were corrugated metal or black plastic pegged onto a wooden frame, or combinations thereof. Some were small, very small, others larger and none beyond one level for obious reasons. 
None had floors, other than hardpacked clay, "rooms" were divided by curtains of cloth or plastic. 
Some had a little corral for a few cattle or maybe goats. Chickens were plentiful.
I've seen some interesting buildings on my travels but this was the most concentrated stretch I've come across.
Yet, there was lots of colour. The "curtains" mentioned above were usually vibrant and lots of places had colourful plants and flowers growing in such a way that they looked "wild" but couldn't possibly have managed to set up home on their own.
As I went along blocks were introduced - sometimes not in the way intended. More than one place seemed to have received a delivery of blocks and rather than build with them used the delivery as a wall to build around. Plots seemed to get bigger too so that a building had space around it. It may just be hard clay but these looked to have been swept every day and looked very neat.
*I even crossed a wide, Dutchlike river on a bridge that had separated lanes for bikes & pedestrians*



​The residences finally gave way to vegetation, dense bushes and trees blocked out the view, then a long line of "Quintas" or Country Houses. Each plot seemed to be the same size, although they were very individual. Some had high walls and gates, others were more open (but secure). Some were very fancy, others were anything but. Basically, a building, a beach of sorts and a garden or lawn. One, in particular caught my eye - a very elaborate (and new) gate and railings at the front, with "La Quinta de mis Sueños" (The Country House of my dreams) arching over the gate. Behind it? Nothing but a well tended wildness. Trees and plants that didn't look like they had been planted in any order but were well looked after. No sign of a building! Someone has high hopes - it spoke to me.
I'm assuming that a lot of these are commercial operations - possibly for rent, or for groups at weekends although I'm sure some were private dwellings, most likely weekend places. Often, directly opposite were the shacks and hodge podges of buildings of the locals.

I still wasn't seeing much of the lake despite it being no more than 50 meters from me! When the Quintas faded away there were more trees, the odd farmhouse then the trees slowly started to thin out.

*At last!*



​My first proper view of the lake was a little underwhelming. Small, muddy waves washing up on a muddy shore. Then again, by that stage I was begining to overheat. The road was straight, there was little shade and the crash barriers had disappeared. The wind picked up too making me work harder but cooling me in compensation. 

I headed for the park for an unsatisfying lunch, being made to feel like I was nothing but a walking $ sign.

*Tolkien tree!



*​Then it was off to find a place to stay. I had no idea but iOverlander had a hotel that received funding from Spain and NL and was run by women to give work and opportunities to poor women. A place to stay and a good cause! Unfortunately closed. The next was a Mexican hostel, closed too. Next was a hotel but with impossible steps. Finally I found another hostel. I did get to see quite a bit of the town though!

I was very pleased with myself! I clocked up a decent distance, thoroughly enjoyed it and didn't totally melt in the heat. Some of my daily distances have been on the low side lately. Mind you, I'm not exactly in a hurry! That changes in Granada. I have a decent internet connection so it's time to get busy! 

*The Church at the Park in Granada*​







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Aug 2021)

Aug 4
Granada

I am a feckin' terrible tourist!

After covering a lot of Granada on the bike yesterday today was nothing to do with exploring this pretty and historical city. Granada is a very pretty town! Colonial architecture abounds but I'm really not in much of position to talk about it. Granada was all about getting organised for a side trip. It was all about the Internet and rules and gambles. 

*A street in Granada!*



​It all started with a chance conversation in the Somoto Canyon with the American lady I was doing the tour with. She advised me to hop up to the US for the Vaccine.
"But I'm not American".
That wasn't a problem according to her. She knew of Canadians doing it (from Costa Rica).
That planted a seed in my mind.....

Some research indicated that it was (in theory) possible. There were, however, a lot of buts.......

Non essential travel to the US is forbidden (a vaccine is not considered essential).

My visa status was in doubt since I was never officially stamped out in Del Rio, Texas. I'd sent a letter from Mazatlán to the organisation responsible with proof that I was in México but these things are never confirmed..... Until the next time at immigration.

Nicaragua has no direct flights to the US.

Most Europeans are not allowed enter the US. I'll need proof I haven't been in Europe since September 2019. Any idea how difficult that is to do without a home? I have photos, a blog (anonymous!) and some proof of reservations (Booking/AirBnB) but nothing conclusive!

On the positive side, Central America and especially México had "vaccination vacations" to the US. Expensive, certainly, but organised through travel agents they offered options up to three weeks with flights, a hotel and vaccines.
Also many US States had removed all stumbling blocks to getting a vaccine - a tacit acceptance of the volume of people living without papers?

Then there were the reasons for:
Panama will require quarantine without a vaccine.
Europe is a no go without a vaccine. Or at least very expensive without a vaccine.
And things can change. Quickly. In fact, the Australian "Smart traveller" notifications had been increasing in frequency and seriousness again. 
(The UK was putting México on the no travel list, stranding UK travellers or commiting them to thousands in costs to quarantine.)
And the obvious one - I might catch Covid and currently have no insurance cover for that).
There is no hope of me getting a vaccine in these parts for a long, long time.

I decided to proceed.

*The Park/Plaza*




​But depart from where and go to where?

At first, I thought Panama. This would be the cheaper option. But looking ahead, that would be two or more weeks away, it would mean rushing to get there and I could be held up in quarantine.
Costa Rica was the quicker option.

I concentrated on San Jose, the Capital, checking flights and looking for places to store my gear. 
Not many reviewed folk on Wamshowers but at least one replied, in the negative, unfortunately.
Storage spaces didn't respond to emails.
I parked that and went looking at destinations for a three week trip. Enough time to get a double shot vaccine.

Miami was the obvious one as that's where a lot of the Latinos were going. New York City was an option too. Neither sat well with me. Too big, too busy, too expensive. A vaccine yes, but three weeks to drive myself demented.
I looked at a map and asked myself where I'd want to go.....
Texas my mind answered back. 
It's always been Texas!
I checked flights. Not too bad. They had vaccines for undocumented. 
I checked a few other places New Orleans, (missed on the bike), San Diego and .... nowhere else. There's nowhere else I 
really want to visit. I returned to Austin. That was it.

Then I actually read the content (as opposed to the headings) of the emails from Smart Traveller and started reading about Covid in the US. There was a blood chilling familiarity to what I read - very similar to pre-lockdown last year. I decided there was a risk of getting "trapped" in the US if I went for too long.

Johnson & Johnson it was! One jab, in and out in days.

Because speed was now the issue I changed my focus to Costa Rica's second airport in Liberia, closer to me than San Jose.

To enter Costa Rica I needed a specific Covid insurance policy too. And a place to store the bike. I contacted an AirBnB and a hostel.

To enter the US I needed a (negative) Covid test (but not one for Costa Rica). That had to be reserved too.







Then I took a deep breath and started to book everything. 

It takes a while when doing everything on a phone. When I was done I was exhausted. It had taken most of the day, cost a fortune and committed me to a short deadline to get to Liberia. I'm not a fan of deadlines on the bike! But if everything worked out (a big if!) I'd have a vaccine, options would remain open to me and I'd have a chance, at least, of continuing. Worst case scenario, returning to Europe wouldn't be quite so difficult as it currently is. 

The collateral damage in all this is Nicaragua. From now on I'm in the touristy area of Nicaragua and I'm going to be flying through it. I've been enjoying myself here, it feels unfair to rush out. 
The road south passes Lake Nicaragua with an island containing not one but two volcanoes. A side trip to the island is now dropped. 
And the general figarytaking that I have been doing is not going to work 

Tomorrow, Thursday, is for going as far as I can. Friday is a long day to Liberia (airport). Saturday is for getting the Covid test, checking out the airport and storing the gear. Sunday morning I leave Costa Rica again.

It's a race for the border. Again.

*This fine church appears to be boarded up*





Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/​


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, August 05, 2021, Granada to Rivas 70 km Total KM 3473
Min meters 41, Max Meters 280
Total Climb 309 Total Descent 224
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 34

Racing for the Border!

There's a real problem with the temperature these days - sweat! Combine that with trying to use the phone - disaster!
I like to pull it out to take notes - buzzwords to remind me of things. The last few days they have been gobbldeygook!
Sometimes taking a photo is a real PITA with a sweaty finger combined with a phone in a wet pocket. My old phone had a wallet type case that at least kept the screen dry. I can't find similar for this one. 
*It really was pleasant cycling. Decent road, (surprisingly) light traffic and lots of trees.



*​So, I had a terrible night's sleep. My head was everywhere. The next few days are critical and I was feeling it. It was near midnight and I was still awake, then woke up at 2:30. Dozed then, on and off until 6 and got up more tired than at 2:30.

Getting out of town was straightforward and I was soon facing into the only climb of the day. The heat, the humidity and the climb really took it out of me. I was really struggling. At least until the climb was over. Then? Then it was cycling bliss!
A headwind to keep me cool, a relatively quiet road, a gentle descent and lovely scenery. Again, I was getting a real kick out of "normal" cycling.

*Trees everywhere. To be fair, you really have to travel the road to properly appreciate them



*​The scenery, again, wasn't super special but it was interesting and moody! There were some fabulous trees along the road. Tolkien trees. Full of mystery. Trees for the imagination.
With a relatively quiet road I had lots of time to remind myself where I was and how lucky I am. It was the kind of road to make me forget deadlines, so I did!

At one stage, with no traffic anywhere I thought I had the road to myself but I was mistaken. About a dozen dragonfly type creatures in shades of metallic blue and green appeared in front of me, hovering like giant insect attack helicopters and a few yellow butterflies flew between them. My own personal airshow!

*Then, every now and then there's something that stops me dead!*



​It was the kind of road that when two guys passed me on a motorbike with a docile pig between the pair it didn't seem odd at all.

After about 20km I joined a bigger road and was expecting more traffic, but no, it was quite light. A good thing too as the road is quite narrow with no shoulder worth mentioning. I did pull off at times for safety's sake.

*Lots of colour too!*



​There were rice fields, maize then later cattle farms. Cattle, goats and horses were grazing the ample verge, usually unattended. Along the road trees on both sides, although little shade.

Seeing a shaded comedor I pulled in for a very tasty lunch. The heat was rising but I seemed to be handling it ok.
My destination for today is at least Rivas, a gateway to the volcanic island. I had wanted to visit but I'm working to a different priority at the moment.
Feeling good I checked again but I can find no accommodation options along the road until the border. Staying in Rivas leaves me with a long day tomorrow. 

*Sometimes there are no trees!*



​I set off again for more of the same. It feels so good to be pedalling and progressing, even if it is hot. I was thinking of continuing on past Rivas to reduce the stress tomorrow. I was feeling good, why not?

*And sometimes there are volcanoes!



*​I stopped for another cold drink and knocked off the last few km to Rivas. 

*The church in Rivas opposite the Park/Plaza*



​From the main road there's not much to it, but I found the Park and was charmed!

*The Park/Plaza. People shooting the breeze, a couple of concession stands and free wi-fi. A pleasant place to sit and people watch*



​Feck tomorrow! If this is my last night in Nicaragua this looks like as good a place as any and better than most! 

*I have no idea!*



​I got a fruit/juice concoction drink from a pretty lady in the park who complimented me on my Spanish and my nice eyes! 
I'll worry about tomorrow, tomorrow!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 06, 2021, Rivas, Nicaragua to Liberia, Costa Rica 114 km Total KM 3587
Min meters 33, Max Meters 281
Total Climb 762 Total Descent 628
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 29

Rivas is a nice town, a bit touristy because it is one of the main access points to the island of Ometepe which is dominated by two large volcanoes. It had been my intention to visit the island for a couple of days but now the priority was Costa Rica. 

I wandered around the town unable to find a decent place to eat until I happened across chicken and pork grilling on the side of the street. A plastic table and chair invited me to sit and I enjoyed a delicious, melt in my mouth chicken dinner. Then home and bed.

*Early morning light can be magical! Even the windmills didn't bother me.*



​I slept surprisingly well and was woken by my alarm for the first time in ages. I got up and brewed some coffee. Again, I wasn't in the mood to eat, so got packed and headed off. Today was going to be a long day and finish up in a new country!

Despite the early hour it was already warm. Scratch that - it was hot! I had a Central American flat section to the border than a hefty climb. That initial "flat" section had me sweating and overheating. Every climb was taking it out of me. The downhills were very pleasant though. Best of all the road was quiet. That was a good thing because shoulders don't exist here and the road is quite narrow. 

*Taking a breather and soaking up this great road. I think Covid may be the cause of the low traffic.*



​I was cycling along the shore of the big lake but hardly saw it through the trees. There were a lot of windmills - what every cyclist wants to see! 

Outside of Rivas I met a group of about a dozen roadies - not one so much as looked at me never mind return my greeting. Antisocial feckers!

*Water and trees! I'm feeling spoilt!*



​Despite being "flat" I was working hard and really heating up. Stopped at one stage, soaking with sweat the wind started to cool me down. I could feel my back and shoulders go goosebumpy as they cooled but inside? Inside it was like a kettle was pumping hot steam into me. It felt hot, wet and mushy.

*It was a blissful early morning! Lots of little rivers running to the lake*



​There were several small rivers to cross that flowed into the lake but mainly I was cycling through trees with rare glimpses of the water to my left.

Coming to the small town of Sapoa, the last Nicaraguan town just before the border I encountered serious roadworks that slowed me right down but emphasised how little traffic was heading in my direction. I took that as a good sign since this border crossing is notorious for being chaotically busy. 

I pulled in for some food and replenished my water then on to the border. I had noticed that there were no places to stay along the route, at least none further than the edge of Rivas. It was a good thing I hadn't pushed on yesterday. I'd have hit the border and without insurance wouldn't have been able to pass.

*Costa Rica! Looking ominous!*



​Costa Rica has no requirement for a Covid test. Normally, proof of health insurance is required to enter but in Covid times it has specific requirements for Covid coverage requiring me to take out an insurance policy for my stay. I had done that back in Granada and had a QR code on my phone with all the info.

First I had to leave Nicaragua! A nice, modern building, no queue, pay $1 to queue, $3 to leave. Then I was directed to airport style scanners. All the bags off (not my handlebar bag) and through the scanner. Had to open one pannier to show a powerbank and wheeled the bike past the scanner thereby avoiding awkward questions about my knife and the last of my fuel. 

Getting into Costa Rica was straightforward once I located the building. Then it was find a money changer (they were very laid back) and hit the road. Up.

*Costa Rica looking a little less ominous! A good road, minimal traffic and feckin' close to nature! The roadside is filled with creatures rummaging in the verge, beautiful, colourful butterflies flit around and birds (and possibly other animals) pass comnentary on the sweaty cyclist!



*​First impression of Costa Rica was wet! It started to rain literally as I crossed the border.
Next impression was green! Lots of green! And wild! That idea I've expressed before of being close to Nature was blown out of the water - at times plants, mainly grass, taller than me were brushing against me as I rode.

The first dogs I met were barkers and chasers. I haven't had a chase in a while. I hoped it was just the rain that refreshed them and that sleeping dogs would soon become the norm. Later, two angry ones got a bit close but stopped dead when their boss called them. Impressive! 

*Volcanoes with clouds working their magic and lots and lots of green!*



​I had more rain on the climb. Heavy rain. Unlike other days the temperature didn't drop much so I didn't get cold. I didn't bother donning a rain jacket since I was already soaking. I just kept on going. Traffic was picking up though. Especially truck traffic.

Finally, the climbing levelled off, or at least what passes for level in these parts. Again, it was great to be motoring along. I came to the town of La Cruz and pulled in to a restaurant to eat. I was hungry and thirsty! I left after 25 minutes having had nothing. One other table of two parents and a child and the waitress ignored me after giving me a menu.
I set off again low on water looking for a shop.
​That was a mistake! There are no frequent shops here like elsewhere. In fact there was nothing for ages. I was down to the dregs of my water. And it was all warm.
This was a difference and a substantial one. Whereas close to the border there were some small villages and a few farms it appeared that now I was in the jungle. With no-one around! Normally I'd pull in to savour that sensation but not today. 

Finally, with about 45km to go I came across an empty restaurant. Open!
I had some rice with prawns, guzzled a fruit drink then relaxed over a coffee. 

*Costa Rica does standalone trees too!



*​My destination, Liberia was in reach now. I had a reservation at a hostel to stay Friday & Saturday and hold my gear for a few days. Saturday was Covid test day and Sunday was off to the airport day. Not making Liberia today would put me under pressure on all kinds of fronts tomorrow. 

I set off again and had a wonderful, gentle descent for a while. From one moment to the next the countryside went from dense trees (at least along the road) to wide open plain. That helped the wind try to blow me off the road. And the traffic got heavier. With one notable exception the trucks were generally good, pickups were generally good too, SUVs were obnoxious and delivery vans were the worst. 

*Scenery boring? Check out the sky!*



​With about 5km to Liberia the road filled with a line if traffic so I was very, very glad to make my turn off to the hostel. Starving (again!) I passed, found a chicken restaurant and ate a very satisfying chicken dinner. I returned to the hostel, checked in, showered and did very little.

*A river that is not muddy and brown with floodwater*





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (18 Aug 2021)

Saturday August 07

Liberia

I am not cut out for hostels!
Or else I'm just getting old!
In fact both!

It was interesting yesterday evening watching a group of relative strangers cook a meal together. The Dutch cook really did not appreciate the German girl telling him how to cook.
Others had a discussion, heated at times, about salt in Guacamole!
Everyone seemed in pairs, either couples or travelling together either permanently or for a few days.
Listening to how plans were made, suggestions offered and accepted or rejected was interesting. Very different from my process.
"Oh, you must go to X! It's fantastic! I had a great time there and didn't want to leave".
"What did you see? Where should I go to visit?"
"I don't know, I just partied".

*Liberia. Some official building*



​A "helper" at the hostel was quite snotty with me but I was amused to see him fawning over two German girls. In fact, he was incredibly helpful to anyone who possessed ovaries and friendly to guys if they had a companion, travelling or romantic. 

*A bit of peace and calm in a small park*



​Today was all about one thing - a Covid test reserved at the airport. It gave me a chance to do a dummy run to the airport in advance of a Sunday departure. Buses in these parts can be unreliable. 
I tend to being a tad chaotic for these things but I had a mental vision of big, heavy dominoes, all in a line. Even a stumble and the line fails.

Out in plenty of time for my test I was delighted to be taken in ahead of schedule and had my negative results within an hour.
I explored the small, simple airport (self check-in disabled) and caught the bus back to Liberia.

*The interesting (and to me severe) church in Liberia*



​Then off to explore the town. There was an interesting church but the parks didn't really grab me.

There's a strong US vibe here. Cars are more plentiful and bigger. American brands are everywhere. English is spoken easily. 
One thing a few bike tourists have commented on is the animal life and I saw my (second) iguana in the wild, a fine, big, colourful, healthy one on the side of the main road! 
I found the town to be bustling busy, less noisy than other places but less laid back. Perhaps just anxiety about tomorrow but I wasn't feeling it.

*Iguana!*



​I went back to the hostel to make the arrangements to store my gear. I needed to talk to the boss for that and he had been absent.
In the end he wanted me to load everything up and cycle somewhere else, to someone else. That wasn't going to work for me. With no energy and no time to organise something else I booked the room until I returned and prepped for my journey.
I made sure I had all the dates of my entry and exit to different countries, copies of my itinerary, hotel and important addresses. My Covid result. My passport with US visa. 
Then I read a while.
Sleep, anxious, nervous sleep, eventually arrived. 

*The rather disappointing Plaza/Park



*​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (19 Aug 2021)

Austin Day 1

Getting the vaccine

I
AM
THE
LUCKIEST
BA$TA*D
IN
THE
WORLD!

Everything went smoothly in the morning. Up, made coffee, caught the bus, checked in, on the plane and flew to Houston.

It was 2008 the last time I was on a plane for anything more than a short hop. I used to love airports and planes, not so much now. The best part was the screen in the seat in front of me! I put up the map and watched us zoom across Nicaragua - an interesting contrast to my pace!






Immigration in Houston had me nervous but the queue flowed smoothly. No problem with the visa,
"Why are you coming?"
"For a medical procedure"
"Have a nice stay"
Then on to Austin.

*Houston to Austin looks pretty flat!*



​The shuttle bus didn't arrive to take me to the hotel so I caught a cab. I ate disappointingly in the hotel restaurant and went to bed. Sleep was fitful. I think I am not used to airco. 
I was in Austin, none of the things that could have tripped me up did. A poor night's sleep wasn't too bad in the big scheme of things.

*For @CharlesF - the King may be dead but he isn't forgotten!*



​I woke up later than planned, showered, coffeed and set off walking to a pharmacy I had picked out.

There is conflicting information online that changes constantly about availability of vaccines, appointments etc. With a phone that did not function as a phone I needed a face to face bit of advice and information. Also, Austin is a virus hotspot at the moment with pleas being issued for people to get a vaccine. Nobody walks here. At least not far. I had parts of the city to myself.

*The Texas Capitol with an ominous looking sky!*



​Near to the Capitol (designed to be taller than the one in Washington! Yes, I think I said it before - I love that little bit of Trivia!) I entered a very quiet pharmacy and within 10 minutes Lauren had taken my details, the absolutely barest of details, and given me the jab. Job done.
I really couldn't believe it. At the very least I had expected to make an appointment. Instead I was vaccinated. Johnson and Johnson one shot.
Since the vaccine is free, even to me, stateless, homeless and some might say feckless, I had asked Lauren for her favourite charity. While passing the 15 minutes I had to wait before leaving (to make sure there were no adverse effects) I went online and donated $100 to the Austin Volunteer Health Clinic, an organisation that helps folks without insurance. 

9:30 and I was done!
I walked out into a different world!






I had made no plans. Superstitious me didn't want to look forward to anything. But of course, it was Monday - the great Bob Schneider's residency in the Saxon Pub. The link to direct to tickets wasn't working. Not a good sign. 
Posting on Facebook, a friend immediately replied that Jason Isbell was playing in Austin that night - sold out. (By going to Charleston I effectively missed my chance to see him play the historic and spiritual Ryman in Nashville. Were the Touring Gods giving me a second chance to see him on the Austin City Limits stage?)

I did have dinner plans, though. Willie ( @cwskas ) had been in touch to offer whatever assistance I might need. 
I wandered off to explore Austin, to buy the CD I buy every year (only available in one store in Austin and, thankfully, online) and to visit REI - a big sporting goods store. 

Willie was on for seeing Bob but even after opening time of the pub they weren't answering the phone. Looking online I could buy two tickets for Jason Isbell from a reseller. Done!

Willie brought me to an old, authentic diner for a big feed then we drove to the gig. Minor panic when I needed to prove my vaccination status (thankfully I had taken a photo and it did the trick) and we were in.

*The incomparable Willie Nelson outside the gig*



​After I left San Antonio I had thought that my musical pilgrimage was over. Here I was, 18 months later, in a place I never expected to return to and not only was I seeing Jason Isbell and his band, but the warm up was Lucinda Williams - a fantastic performer with a rich voice and some intense lyrics. Truly, we never know what the road will throw at us!

Lucinda took to the stage slowly. Suffering the effects of a stroke last November she had to be helped onstage and manoeuvred into a seat. A guitar player, she held nothing in her hands.
A performance that could have been a pity fest was anything but. 

It was a tour de force of a performance.

Backed up by a guitarist, bassist and drummer (and later a guest guitarist) her voice powered above it all. 
If you're familiar with her work you'll know her lyrics can be defiant. Scary at times too! 

That show was defiance! 

Between songs she talked of Blaze Foley and Townes van Zandt (big fan) in a way that made me, at least, feel like they were just behind the curtain. Those are special moments.

For the last three songs she stood up, a roadie lifting her out of her chair, turning it so that she could use it to support herself and giving her a hug.
Defiance! 
When it was over I turned to Willie and said that we may as well go home because nothing was going to better that.*

I was right.

*Austin City Limits. Back when I had a DVD collection I had more than a few ACLs. Now I've been to a show! It's feckin' amazing at times where a bike will take us!*



​*Willie reckons that he saw a guy scrolling through an ipad that was projecting lyrics onto a screen in front of her. I'd seen him and thought he was controlling the lighting. No offence to Willie, but I'm going to forget what he saw.

I enjoy watching the road crews rip a set up apart and set up the new one. These guys were highly organised. The keyboards, organised on three sides of a square were rolled onstage on their own platform. 
When everything was set up I had never seen such a controlled, organised, sterile stage setup.

*Not as good as the Mexican ones!*​





I've never seen Jason Isbell live but I've heard him live. He's a great lyricist. He has a way with words, with tone, with rhythm, tempo and spacing that can pick you up and pull you right into a scene - no matter how unfamiliar. If you like your music emotionless, he's not for you.
And yet, that's how I found the gig - emotionless. 
Everything was perfect. Too perfect. Planned, choreographed and executed. With extreme precision.
Looking around the crowd were enjoying it, but they weren't in it. 
In fairness, he did say that these are the first gigs that he and the band have played together (as opposed to over Zoom) in ages and the music tended to celebratory. I suppose it's understandable if four guys rebond, reconnect and have fun on stage. 

And they were on after Lucinda Williams. Nobody, and I mean nobody, could have generated the emotion, the spirit, the energy or the power that was in the air while she was on stage. 

It was an interesting contrast - "new school" high tech, multicoloured pedal boards, automatic lighting, perfect sound and coordination versus "old school" defiance.

What a terrible tourist I am! 

*I passed the Mexican American Cultural Centre but it was effectively closed which was disappointing for me. I think I'm much better equipped to grasp some of the nuance in such a complex relationship. With the rule about off leash dogs I'm guessing that's more US than Mexican culture*



​Back in my sterile hotel I was exhausted but I took a few minutes to contemplate where I was, what I had achieved and to be grateful.
So many things could have gone wrong but instead everything went to plan and then I got dessert added on. 

The Luckiest Ba$ta*d in the world

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Aug 2021)

Austin - The interlude

*I saw more than a few turtles paddling around in the river around Austin. If I looked around I'd also see tents or people's belongings stashed, waiting to be recovered.*​






Willie pulled out all the stops for me! Not only had he sent me screen loads of links for the vaccine, made it clear that anything I needed all I had to do was ask, he also decamped to a State Park outside of Austin with his tent to be on hand. Willie rides a trike and he has two of them. He brought both!

Tuesday morning he arrived with both at my hotel and we set off to explore some of Austin's cycle paths. 

*For anyone wondering, this is how two trikes get transported! What service!*



​Let's just stop and appreciate that for a moment. 
Willie lives about 120 miles away, has effectively "moved" to Austin for the duration of my visit and brought me a bike!

Thanks, Willie! Just seems so inadequate.

*Cycling along the Colorado river, Austin, Tx. I am the luckiest ba$ta*d!*



​I haven't ridden a trike since I was a gasún. I'll tell you - they're fun! 
Low to the ground, tight steering there's a real "race" quality to them. Throw in the offroad possibilities along the river in Austin they're a lot of fun!

*Poor Willie had to adjust to my style! A sudden shout of "photo" meant I had seen something I wanted to record so Willie had to stop and wait!*



​We made plans for a repeat performance the next day and I returned to my hotel. By rights I should have been getting organised for my return to Costa Rica but another voice was calling - the Chili Parlour for a Mad Dog Margarita or two.
You know you're in a good bar when you sit at the counter and feel like you belong. No bullshoot, no fawning, and it makes no difference if it's your second or second thousand visit. 

*Ahhhhhhhhhhhh! That's Bass! The Texas Chili Parlour. *



​The next day Willie picked me up and we went riding with his brother through suburban Austin and along some trails. I even got to re-experience riding along a highway. I don't miss them!
Then a huge lunch (chicken fried steak) and we said our goodbyes. 

Willie was great!

*This shot was Willie's idea. I think he may have a bit of "flower power hippy" in him yet!*



​I wandered through one of the trendier areas of Austin, tried (and failed) to get a sim card (I can't charge my Guatemalan sim and this is causing problems) and meandered back to the hotel.






I've gotten better at my meandering since I was last in Austin but even though Austin is quite pedestrian friendly, meandering here is different to further south. 

*Tex! Tiny and very light, picked up in one of Austin's "weird" shops. Don't think it'll work out!*



​Back in the hotel my immigration issues resurfaced. An online form to be filled in for Costa Rica generated an email reminding me that I must have an exit ticket from CR otherwise I'll be denied entry. A chat with a helpful agent confirmed this. I tried to book a bus ticket online but my paypal is denying me access - it sends a code to my phone - my Dutch phone - which I cannot access. How do I change the number? In my account. How do I get access to my account? With my Dutch phone! How do I chat to customer service? From my account! Why can't I use my Guatemalan number to create a new account? Because it takes about an hour to receive the text and the link Paypal sends is only active for ten minutes!
With no other option I booked the cheapest flight option out of CR and paid with Credit Card. 






Travelling day was long. Out to the airport and wait. Fly to Houston and wait. Fly to CR. Pass through immigration with no problems. Taxi to the hostel. 

The day had one flaw - my Ipod reset itself in Texas. At first I thought it had died, but instead it set itself back to factory settings. 20,000 songs gone! And ironically a huge number either from, or about Texas! The Lone Star State is trying to break my heart!

I'm back in Central America and I'm vaccinated! Ready to rock'n'roll, ipod or no!

*A Texas sunset! I'd forgotten just how big the sky can be and how spectacular the sunsets can be! Montana must be bloody amazing!!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (21 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 13, 2021, Liberia to Curubandé 23 km Total KM 3610
Min meters 151, Max Meters 425
Total Climb 431 Total Descent 173
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Vaccinated biker back on the road!

I was exhausted. Back at at the hostel close to midnight I went straight to bed. With only a fan in the room it was warm, very warm, yet I slept better than in the air-conditioned room in Texas. Not enough, though!

*Costa Rica - Take Two!*



​I got up and made coffee and thought about my options for the day. 
Here's the thing:
I need a covid test to enter Panama and outside of the airports & San Jose (the Capital), there aren't many options in Costa Rica. The closest I can find to the border is about 200km away - another race to the border and through some of the more interesting parts of Costa Rica. This is starting to really pee me off. Especially considering that Panama is, apparently, a completely different country - in all kinds of ways.
One option was to head back to Nicaragua and that island off Rivas for a couple of days - but that requires another Covid test (not cheap in CR) and more hassle at the border. 
Another option is to slow down where I am and to explore a little. 
And I want to camp! I need to camp! After the travelling, the queues, the buses, the airports, the queues, the planes, the queues, (there are always queues!) the sterility of a big hotel, the air-conditioned environment, the human noise I'd like a little peace & quiet.
There's a hostel that allows camping back out the road which may just do the job. It looked closed when I passed it on my way to Liberia but Booking has it open (no guarantee!) so I emailed them.
I'll pass the weekend and then head for the beaches on the coast, hopefully missing the weekend rush. Sorted!

*This is most certainly not the PanAmerican! *​





I popped out to the shops to stock up and then got organised. A couple I'd met in the airport last night were busy assembling two bikes, one a S&S Surly that travelled in a case, the other out of a battered box. My first S&S bike in the wild I was intrigued. He was having problems reconnecting cables and both had issues with connecting pedals. They're down to explore CR for 12 days.

*Still feeling like the luckiest ba$ta*d!*



​It was about 11am when I set off. Whoah! It was hot! Steamy hot! I couldn't help cursing all the airco over the past few days - it seemed like I'd lost all conditioning to the heat.
Like my arrival the road was busy as I headed back towards Nicaragua and I wasn't enjoying it. After about 5km I saw a sign to a National Park (CR has lots of them!) with not one but two volcanoes! On a whim I turned off. Immediately the traffic situation changed for the better!
I hadn't considered going this way because it involved climbing but iOverlander had shown a few options.

*I think it's almost instinctive to classify, or attempt to classify, a new country so Costa Rica gets classified as a 70's porn movie - bush everywhere!*



​There really is a closeness to nature that is unrivalled anywhere so far. It's not just that it's close, it's imposing as well. Rushes/grasses are at the edge of the road as tall as me. There's hefty rustling sounds as I cycle past. I've seen more lizards today than on my travels so far. 
And I had it pretty much all to myself! Hardly any traffic. 

*There's hardly any shade, too much climbing but there's hardly any traffic and I feel like I have the place to myself.*​





But it was hot. And I was tired. Progress was slow and tough. My heart was going loopy! Sun, heat, humidity and a climb and I was fecked! Shade was rare but I stopped wherever it was. Several times I thought to turn back and head for the hostel but I'd had no response to my email and I'd be peed off if I arrived to a closed hostel. Besides, this was the kind of road I wanted to explore. So I continued on. 
Then I saw it! A sign for a lodge & campground - only 5km away! Yaaay! 

*I think I made the right call going this way!*



​It was in a small village so I headed for a store first. I needed water. I treated myself to an ice-cream as well and sitting in the shade perused Osmand & iOverlander to see where I was and where I could go. No rush - the campground was just down the road. I worked my way down to Panamá marking off likely destinations. Hah! Panamá!

*There were roadsigns, posters and info leaflets asking people to watch out for this bugger! Not to be touched with naked skin nor killed, but bagged and inform the authorities! 
Great! As well as all kinds of killer spiders and creepy crawlies, snakes and crocodiles I have to be careful of snails!*



​Then I set off down a bumpy road to the very well signposted lodge and Campground. Closed! Man, was I peed off! Multiple signs, including one at the top of a very rough road but when I arrived, a non native said closed and recommended a place a further 2km. 
I set off again. This place was very nice but a B&B, off the road and up a bloody big hill. No camping!

*A bit of offroading trying to find a place to rest my weary head.*



​Back on the road a man directed me back down the rough road, past the B&B, past a barrier where I'd find camping.
I did! A little campground and cabins! A basic outdoor kitchen, animals farm and otherwise wandering around. 

*Breakfast the next morning. A duck, chickens and the rooster is out of shot!*




​Home. Relaxing home!





​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (21 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, August 14, 2021, Curubandé to Liberia 34 km Total KM 3644
Min meters 35, Max Meters 387
Total Climb 454 Total Descent 668
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 29

Costa Rica doesn't do figaries!

I know that somewhere in my notes I have written something like "don't do the backroads in Costa Rica in the rainy season". At the time I wrote it (several years ago now) I was thinking of the frequency of rivers to be forded. I can now verify that it's very good advice and it has feck all to do with fording rivers!

There's nothing like a night in a tent! It's dark here by 7 pm and I was in bed by 7:30. By about 7:35 I was enjoying that sensation when I'm so tired my eyes can't focus on the words in front of me and I can feel my grip on the kindle loosening. 

I slept like a drunken baby! 

*A pretty country this Costa Rica!



*​Strange, exotic and wild sounds woke me up in the grey light of dawn. There were birds, for sure, but something else too! Was this the morning for monkeys?
Alas, no, but there is something to be said for a rural Costa Rican morning. There are the birds and their foreign calls, even a woodpecker! The roosters are slow here, or else they were just taking their turn. I had my coffee made before they started crowing. Ducks and chickens came over to say hello, a kaleidoscope of butterflies flittered around. And I lost count of how many spiders tried to land on me while I sat and savoured my coffee.

I was in no rush even though I could feel the sun starting to kick in. I decided to head further into this big park and skirt around one of the volcanoes on backroads then join up with a mainish road and hopefully camp again at a thermal baths. iOverlander had a spot for a wildcamp too so maybe a bit of adventure.

*First ford of the day! To the right is dammed and people are sitting and swimming*



​The plan lasted about 2km. I came to a gate across a road and was informed that it was $4 to cross. This isn't an entry fee to the park (that's later) it's to the owner of the road. The sign clearly said 800 Colons to pass, about €1 so I was getting the Gringo price. The guard was neither friendly nor helpful. When I tried to clarify that I could get to where I wanted to go he was very negative and I couldn't be sure if that was because I couldn't get to there or he just wasn't helpful.
Annoyed that he was demanding dollars (I had none) I turned around and headed off. 

*Ah, a bit of adventure never hurt anyone!*



​Plan B was to get back to the Pan American but on different roads than I had travelled yesterday. Once on the road I'd be closer to the hostel I set off for yesterday or I could head for the coast. But first some backroads! Yaaay!

It was at the small village from yesterday that I diverted off my route from yesterday and immediately hit gravel. This is fine, says I and rolled along. It wasn't long until I came to my first ford - easy peasy! The locals have even dammed it so on my right as I passed people were swimming or just soaking in the surprisingly warmish water.

*More adventure!*



​After that I was really out in the country! There was no one around! Even though both sides of the road were fenced there was little productive land. A few fields had some cattle but there weren't many crops. The road surface changed to dried mud, gravel and sand. In the dry it was great fun.

I took a turn off onto a smaller, rougher road and now started to see the odd farmhouse. I met a Cowboy and wondered if he'd object to me being around but instead I got a beaming smile.

I passed through another ford or five, but one had a fallen tree that seemed the perfect spot for a bit of lunch. Just me, butterflies and the sound of a flowing stream. Bliss!

*My lunch spot. Tortillas, nutella and a banana never tasted so good! The sound of the little stream was like music*



​The road turned stonier as I approached a small village and the weather turned as I passed through. Heavy rain started to fall so I pulled up beside a store, got a cold drink and sat it out.

Getting back on the bike I dismissed the idea at the back of my mind that maybe I should stay on the good road. Only 5km to the Pan American I said to myself. Sure that's nothing! 

Oh Dumbass!!

*Before the rain. Who wouldn't want to explore along here?*



​Bumpy gravel was fine until I made a turn onto a grassy road. That was fine too until I made a turn onto a well dug up path. There was a lot of mud. 
At first, it was ok, but the mud started to accumulate in the mudguards until I had to stop and attack them with a stick. And so it was. Go for a while. Unclog. Rinse and repeat.
I haven't seen this type of mud since I cycled along the Somme but I was in no rush and it's all part of the adventure.

But Costa Rica had more in store for me. The ground turned black and instantly became stickier. If I put my foot down there was a strong possibility I'd raise it again without my shoe!

*Still before the rain! Down the hill and around the bend there's a whole other world waiting for me!*



​It took me quite a while to figure it out but I was trying to travel in wet, black, volcanic soil. Judging by the green fields either side of me with healthy looking cattle it's fertile stuff! It is also lethal for cyclists.
The problem now was less an accumulation in the mudguards and more a general case of the mud sticking to everything! And I mean everything! And then it would harden.
I was wearing clown shoes because a layer of mud would stick to my shoes, then a layer would stick to the first one and so on. On the bike the mud coated the tyre, hardened, then added another layer. Three or four rotations were all that were required for both wheels to jam solidly. I had fat tyres!

This was less fun!

I decided to remove everything off the bike and carry it all past this section, maybe about 500 meters. After that I was back on grass.
Not an easy job as my feet kept getting stuck in the mud.
Finally, everything was on grass, I flipped the bike over, removed the wheels, cleaned everything, loaded up and set off. 
I got about 50 meters. The grass was growing on the same volcanic soil and the grass helped it bind even better than before!

At this stage I didn't even bother with a stick, my fingers were doing all the mud removal.
My legs were covered, my feet, obviously, and now my hands and arms. Some people pay a lot of money for such a treatment! 

*After the rain!*



​I tried pushing until wheel-lock then unclog and resume but it was very slow going. 
And then it started to rain!
The Touring Gods were having a laugh! 

I left the bike and walked on to get my bearings. The road was a little over a km away. I returned, unloaded and brought everything in shifts to a tree near the road. I was in surprisingly good spirits all things considered but was keeping a wary eye on the sunlight.

Once everything was under the tree I did a bit of scouting. No normal car could turn off the road and a bank of trees hid the road, except for the rough entrance. To the left were a couple of houses, but to the right a path ran parallel to the road and was hidden from it by trees. Far enough down there and I'd be hidden from the houses too. I found an imperfect, but likely spot and returned to the bike to wait for the sun to sink. Despite the rain I wasn't cold at all so didn't really pay any heed to it. At least until I tried to bring the bike along that little path. It was a sodden bog. In the space of an hour it had gone from firm underfoot to a soggy mess. Camping was not going to be pleasant. In twilight I headed for the road.

*Why couldn't it be like this all the time?*



​I could have gone right and headed for the unknown hostel but decided to play safe and headed back to Liberia. 
Traffic on my side was light but there was heavy oncoming traffic all with very bright lights. Visibility was a bit of an issue, especially since vegetation was right beside the road. 
Again, close to Liberia the traffic picked up in both directions and I was counting down the kms until I could get off.
What was amazing was the number of bikes who passed me heading out of town and not a single light between them! Horrifying! There's me lit up like the proverbial Christmas tree getting passed way too close. What must it be like for them?

The rain was helping to clean me up a bit but I still looked like a Holy mess. The poor bike too!
I didn't want to return to the hostel because the clean up would be too difficult. Instead I recalled a large, rundown hotel that would suit my needs better if not too expensive.
It wasn't and to be quite honest I'm surprised the man sold me a room! 

I left the bike outside the room, headed straight for the shower and fully clothed stepped under it. It took about 30 minutes for the water to stop running brown!

*Still nowhere near the road! Roccado is upside down for cleaning, bags are being carried by the ass and there's more rain to come! *




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 15, 2021, Liberia to Tamarindo 77 km Total KM 3721
Min meters 29, Max Meters 163
Total Climb 344 Total Descent 437
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 31

Costa Rica is a cruel Mistress!

An idea was bouncing around in the back of my head on the first day of cycling in Costa Rica, a vague idea but one that suggested that Costa Rica could be a cruel mistress to a wandering cycle tourist. Today brought that vague notion front and centre.

*There's going to be a lot of roadshots today! That "shoulder" wasn't usable, often with a nasty drop down. *



​All my best intentions of an early start were put to bed - literally. I slept well and long. Surveying the damage to the bathroom - mud everywhere - and big muddy footprints on the tiled floor everywhere else (in fairness I had removed my shoes) was just proof of yesterday's experience.

Grabbing a free coffee in the lobby I spied a hose outside and had permission to clean the bike. More mud! Some of it had hardened that not even fingers could pry it loose. At least the rims, tyres and brakes were fully functional.

I also had a bit of wifi at the hotel and just before departure time my shortish day had changed since the campground I had contacted had replied in the negative. Bah!

*Some drivers seemed to think that I should be riding in that sand and gravel.*



​I loaded up and set off for the coast after tracking down the chambermaid, apologising and tipping generously. 
But first I failed to pass a Subway for a breakfast sandwich and a coffee. Then I was heading for the coast.

I'm off the PanAmerican for a while. Since I'm going to have to rush through the last section of Costa Rica (and having rushed through the last part of Nicaragua) I am going to take it easy in this Northern part. A bit of acclimatisation to the heat won't do any harm and Texas reminded me that I haven't seen a good sunset in far too long. If I can't find a good sunset on the Pacific Coast I may as well go home!

Lord was it busy! Two lanes, no shoulder, very hot and very unpleasant!
This was the road to the airport, but everyone, it seemed, was either going to the beach or coming from it. I had more close passes today than I have had since i re-hit the road in México. 
One bus driver, in particular, was cursed so profanely that his children's children's great grand children will be carrying remnants of the curse!

*An old bridge on an old road*



​I was (deliberately) not heading for the first beach thinking that it would be the busiest. (It also seems to have a rep for petty theft. Serious crime doesn't seem to be too much of a problem, but petty crime in the form of theft is quite common). It was clearly a great plan because the locals agreed with it! Not a single car in a long line took the turn off!

As time went on the traffic did lighten, but that was compensated for by a smaller road!

*This really wasn't a lot of fun*​





There's a bridge further down Costa Rica that is famous for Crocodiles. It's on my to-do list but as is the way with these things the crocodiles may be long gone when I get there. Passing by a small village I spied an old road running parallel to my right so when I got my chance I pulled off onto it and doubled back a ways. Like my road it had a bridge over a brown, muddy river, but unlike my road it wasn't choked with traffic. I stopped to photo the river. Another man pointed something out to me - a crocodile! Then another! And another! The bridge would fail any European safety standards and I stayed well away from the edge. Falling into a river on the bike would probably be tour ending, falling into a crocodile infested river would be life ending!

This is the problem with Costa Rica - there is genuinely so much to see but the roads militate against seeing! Too much focus on staying safe. Crossing the bridge on the road I was aware of the river but not the detail. And what detail to miss!
Costa Rica is a cruel Mistress!

*That's a croc down there! *



​I stopped on shaded seats beside a football pitch for lunch and a break from the sun. People don't chat here. They'll look, subtly, but rarely speak. They might return a greeting but that's it. If they think they can sell you something then it's different.

Setting off again there was a strange noise coming from somewhere. A bit of elimination and I deduced the source as the rear hub. That wasn't good.
Back in Liberia before going to Austin I had given the bike a good going over and had noticed a faint noise from the hub. Not having any grease there was little I could do and I figured it wasn't that serious. Besides, I have an ocean crossing from Panama and my rough plan is for a total overhaul in Cartagena, Colombia.
Well, today, that decision came back to bite me on the ass. There was groaning and rattling. At times I genuinely wondered if my frame was starting to break such was the noise.

*The weather always makes things interesting!*



​When I eventually came to a railing I pulled in, unpacked and investigated. Definitely the hub and it sounds rough, like it needs grease badly. Or a good clean. Or both. Not a thing I can do about it though! 

I set off again happy enough with the constant traffic as it killed the sound of my hub.

Osmand had shown two spikes on a relatively flat route and these were next. Spike is right! Up to 20% gradient! In the heat with the traffic I didn't even try. I walked. In fairness, the usually excellent surface was poor for the climbs. For some reason a mix of stone and gravel had been set along the side of the road pushing me out too far in the lane for comfort. And the heat! Have I mentioned the heat?

*This is a bit more like it!*



​For the second spike Mother Nature laid on some rain. Soft, cooling rain. I had been watching it fall all around me, but not on me and then heard the increasing woosh as it approached me from the right. As I climbed it got heavier and by the time I got to descend it was a few drops short of a downpour. Spying a filling station I pulled in for cover. Ferociously loud lightning, yes lightning, coupled with ground shaking thunder made me appreciate my luck! 
The filling station was a hive of activity - a continuous line of cars for refueling. Stations here are full service and these guys and gals were busy! 

It took an hour, at least, for the rain to lighten off, so I crossed the river running down the road and set off in the fading light and rain. The first car to pass me soaked me in spray!

*And this! With less traffic I can really relax and absorb. In fairness, there is a lot to absorb!*



​I was heading for Tamarindo, quite a famous beach and surfing town that had a few options for camping - one right on the beach.

Heading for a night's camping in the rain may not sound like a lot of fun (and to be totally honest was not feeling like a lot of fun) but throw in camping beside the Pacific Ocean and, to this Atlantic raised boy at least, it assumes a different dimension.

Tamarindo is fancy and not my cup of tea. The beach is accessed through multiple fancy establishments - restaurants, bars and hotels. Thankfully, my destination, right at the end if town is none of those things!
It's mud and weeds and a few picnic tables. A shed to rent surfboards and organise tours (a large crocodile had been photoshopped poorly into a poster!). I caught a young fella who was just locking up and was confused that I wanted to camp (with my own tent) for the night. His confusion sprang from his insistence in using his poor English. I met the boss, stoned, who offered me a bed in a container - I may not have survived the night! - but I preferred my tent.

*The Plaza/Park in Huacas. They don't have the same buzz, the same life, vibrancy or interest as México*



​I took a quick wander to the beach, all of 50 meters away. Out at sea there was no rain and the cloudy sky looked brighter. To my right were low hills with even lower clouds banded around them. In front of me a collection of boats were bobbing up and down. No sunset, but still not a bad view!

I set up while cooking dinner, ate in the rain then retired to bed. The rain was falling, it was oppressively warm inside, my clothes were soaking and I've a problem with the bike.
But I could hear the Pacific. The waves arriving leisurely on the thin, narrow, scrawny beach.
The Pacific!
Isn't this why we do the crazy things we do?

*If the road was like this all the time Costa Rica would be perfect!*





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Monday, August 16, 2021, Tamarindo to Santa Cruz 38 km Total KM 3759
Min meters 14, Max Meters 77
Total Climb 201 Total Descent 112
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 32

Serendipity!

Ah, Costa Rica is messing with me big time. This is the first time anywhere on the bike that I'm thinking I have the wrong form of transport. 

Oh, did I sleep well last night! The rain dancing on the fly was my lullaby but that stopped at some stage (I know because I recall opening up the fly to let in some much needed ventilation).
I awoke with the sun and the sound of waves breaking on the shore. Not just any waves - Pacific waves!

*Everything looks better in daylight - with no rain!*



​I'd half thought of staying an extra day but Tamarindo is not my kind of place. Also, the quandry of the solo traveller was prominent today - what to do with my stuff. There'd be lots of people coming and going - easy for things to go awol. Besides, my hub needed attention. I'd pass a couple of largish towns today A bike shop to remove the cassette and some grease and I'd be sorted.

First things first, though and coffee on the beach. I had contemplated a quick dip but being alone on the beach about 6am with a big "Rip Tide" warning behind me I decided that the last two day's rain was enough water for a while.

*Now this is how to start the day! Morning coffee looking at the Pacific Ocean! *



​Back at the tent the place was coming alive. The boss was up and about, his live in helper (a fly-less tent in a container) too. As was a curious and fearless cat. 
In the back of my mind was the idea to pack up, meander down to the end of the road and have breakfast on a hopefully deserted beach.

Then I looked up. In the trees overhead. Not one, not two but three monkeys having their leafy breakfast. After my attempts at seeing monkeys "in the wild" here they were when I least expected it.
Here's a surprising thing. Three monkeys going about their normal routine above my head and totally unaware or uninterested in my existence becomes quite boring and tends to put us back in our box. They no more cared that I was there than the man on the moon.

*A monkey breaking his fast in the tree above my head!*



​A new employee was all chat and dropped in conversation that they had a bike mechanic on staff. All I had to do was wait. Sold!

It gave me time to dry out a wet tent, clean the bike better, get the drive train spic and span and lubed up. Just as I'd given up hope he arrived (he'd actually been here giving a surf lesson), confirmed my diagnosis that the hub needed some love and offered to meet me at his shop in a small village back the way for the service.
Sold! (He's actually on vacation!)

The wheels of the bike and all that goes with them are probably the parts of the bike that scare me the most. I've adjusted spokes as a temporary fix, have serviced a hub (at home) and if stuck in the back of beyond I'd be able to have a fair stab at getting myself going again. Not perfect, but functional. However, with bike shops around I'll defer to the experts.

Now, I'm going to stop there for a moment and give myself a big pat on the back. It's not something I do very often.
Mechanics are to me what flying is to fish. There are some who are born to it, but some of us just aren't and have to clamber over all kinds of natural hurdles. We'll never "fly" as gracefully as the experts, we'll often crash and burn, but we'll get there. 
Then there's the foreign language, another thing that doesn't come naturally. I was far from fluent but made myself understood and could understand (most) of what he was saying. 


I set off the 5km or so to his "shop", actually a tin shed beside a house and waited. I'd used Osmand, with no proper address he was able to point the exact location on the map and I sent that to Gizmo. Easy Peasy.

He arrived after not too long and quickly had the hub open. Ooooh! It was dirty! Very dirty! The drive side was the worst and some of the bearings showed signs of abrasion. 
A clean, new bearings and copious amounts of grease and the wheel was spinning like new! A cold drink and a generous tip and I was on my way! 

*Today was a tree day!*



​But to where?
It was now noon and I had missed the best part of the day for cycling. One option was to try to go along the coast. In theory, possible, in practice unlikely. Backroads, rivers, fords and who knows what surfaces. I might get 90% of the way to my destination and then get stuck. I think I've enough figary taking for a while!
Instead I headed inland towards Nicoya, probably a bit far away but with a town before it. 

*I like to see a tree or two left in an otherwise "developed" field*



​The road today was quite good and thankfully lightly trafficked but there were precious few places to stop safely. Traffic was generally well behaved but when stopped it's like I become invisible and traffic whizzes right past me. 
Regularly, bridges over small rivers were significantly narrower than the road. I learned quickly to avoid being on a bridge with a car on my ass. A truck or a bus? Stop well before the bridge!

The landscape was either trees and bushes along the road blocking the view or more open fields, well populated with trees. 
When I think of Costa Rica I don't think of trees (or at least, I didn't), but the fact is that they are probably the most interesting sights along a lot of the roads I've travelled so far.
The sheer variety is one aspect, the way a single tree can dominate a field is another or the sheer quantity of Tolkien trees is the last and probably most impactful. Unfortunately, I have very few photos since stopping was often unsafe (traffic) or incredibly uncomfortable - the heat, when stopped is overpowering and energy sapping. Also, taking a photo on the phone is becoming increasingly frustrating with a sweaty screen and sweaty fingers. 
(This travelogue is suffering too - less stops, difficulty typing or even photos specifically taken to remind me of something combine to leave me with less material to work with at the end of the day. It is genuinely amazing to me just how much detail I can forget in a day's travelling. Take notes people!)
The most frustrating moment was passing a fabulous riverbed on a bridge and catching a glimpse of several large, round boulders. I couldn't be sure if they had neatly rolled into the riverbed or if years of constant flowing had carved the shapes out of solid rock. I had an impression of something special but there was nowhere to stop and park the bike (the bridge would have been suicide).

*Told you it was a tree day!*



​It's interesting how many advertising signs are in English. It's pretty clear that there are a lot of Americans living down here as well as holidaying.
I even met one as I cycled along. A pick up pulled alongside me and a pleasant enough looking man called out that he was going to San Jose.
Now, I'm sure he was being friendly, but a big pick up right beside me can be a bit intimidating and based on what he had said I had to presume he was offering me a lift. A moment later he finished his sentence with "you're welcome if you want a ride".
What he couldn't have noticed when he pulled up was the huge grin across my face! I was powering along, the wind keeping me cool and the only noise was the wind in my ears and the gentle whirring of my drivetrain. No protesting hub! I was basking in the serendipity of the road.
Smiling, I turned to him and replied "I'm off to Argentina, you're welcome to follow!" He laughed, wished me a safe journey and sped off. Where was he yesterday?

*For quantity and variety I think Costa Rica is ahead*



​There are few roadside comedors here, although the local version is called a "Soda". Fancier and more familiar than previous countries they tend to be on the edges of towns. I pulled into a pleasant one for lunch. Four ladies none of whom will win awards for friendliness had dedicated tasks, including a separate office for payment. A large menuboard was up without prices. The food was fine but I miss the mystery and surprise of what can come from a far more basic Mexican kitchen. Ah, México!

They had a tv on showing the news. One of the stories (nowhere near headline status) was about Daniel Ortega, the Nicaraguan President/Dictator who had been giving out about Costa Rica, "the Switzerland of Central America", a country where everything is for sale, including human dignity. There's an "election" in Nicaragua in November (that's if any of the opposition aren't in jail or simply disappeared!) and it seems like in the way of populists everywhere, Señor Ortega is looking for an enemy. (In fairness, he's eliminated all his internal ones). I was amused by the "here we go again" tone of the news announcer.

*Behind me*



​Arriving into Santa Cruz I headed for the Plaza/Park to have a look around. A "normal" town, my first in Costa Rica. A few raindrops and heavy thunder got me thinking. Nicoya was 25km away, generally uphill. I really didn't fancy more cycling in the rain. I poked around looking for a cheap hotel, got directed from one to another until I was happy enough and checked in. An evening in a normal town won't go amiss.

*The remains of a church tower with modern church behind. Churches in Costa Rica tend to modern and appear multifunctional, usually with attached halls. Signs proclaiming God tend to be more common in rural areas*



​Exploring after a heavy downpour I was disappointed. Costa Rica is definitely the wealthiest country so far based on the quality of the streets and paths. Lots of cars, new and large. Architecture is uninspiring. I grabbed a coffee and sat in the Plaza, a pretty dull experience. 

I'm screwed! I don't like the tourist towns and the regular towns (a sample of one!) are boring!
I am a bad tourist!

*Nothing wrong with the Park/Plaza to look at, but it felt dull and uninteresting. Lacking vibrancy and life*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (24 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, August 17, 2021, Santa Cruz to Jicaral 73 km Total KM 3832
Min meters 28, Max Meters 169
Total Climb 367 Total Descent 362
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 32

Mommas, Don't Let your Sons Grow up To be Costa Rican Bus Drivers!


I slept well despite constantly waking up. At some stage I just switched off the airco - I was cool but airco isn't agreeing with me.
Up early I made coffee and slowly got organised. Leaving, I saw breakfast being served and asked if I was entitled. Sí. I tend not to leave free food behind me!

*There was nothing spectacular today but early in the morning the omens were looking good*



​Setting off a little later, but well fueled, I took backroads out of town. If the town itself comes across as reasonably prosperous, this is where the not so prosperous live in not such prosperous homes.
Soon I was back in the main road .. and in the traffic. 

*The weather is always interesting and very changeable. There's 15 minutes between this photo and the previous*



​I'm grumpy. 
It's been knocking around the past few days and I think it's because I have been spoilt for a long time. Drivers here are a**holes. Not all of them, of course, but enough that I can't relax. 
There was the idiot yesterday who tried to overtake me against oncoming traffic, decided when he was parallel to me that he wasn't going to make it so hit the brakes and slowly pulled over to run me off the road. I could talk to him through the open window as he did it!
The idiot today who forced me off the road as he made an overtake coming towards me.
All the idiots who decide to overtake the car that's overtaking me. 
The busdriver today who, after we had been stopped by roadworks, ran me into a pile of gravel at the side of the road. I had the lane, he was stopped, no more than five seconds was all I needed to clear the gravel but (heavily cursed) driver hits the accelerator.
I lost count at how many drivers tried to give me a rectal exam, zooming up behind me oblivious to the scene and then jamming on the brakes.
The standard of car may be better here but not the driver!
Not so long ago traffic and my positive interactions with it was a highlight of my days and a legal performance enhancer. Now I just want the feckers to feck off!
Grumpy.

*With no traffic it's wonderful country! With a place to stop and get off the bike even better!*



​That's one of the reasons that I have so few photos today. Too feckin' dangerous!
Another is the heat. Moving is ok as I have a bit of wind to mitigate the worst of the heat. Stop? My body expels water like I'm a wandering fire hydrant!

Thankfully, after about 8am the traffic lightened and later I bypassed Nicoya. Desperate for a cold drink I stopped off in a Burger King. The airco nearly killed me!
I'm carrying out an experiment, ditching my usual merino top for a quick drying synthetic t shirt with a fine mesh.
I much, much prefer the merino as it is so comfortable but it is delicate when it comes to washing and especially drying. 
My super wicking t shirt is killing my nipples! I bring this up now because Airco!

Outside an American approached me. Living here for 17 years he doesn't want to ever go back but has to bury his wife (ashes) who died last October. Ordinarily, the human reaction is to have sympathy but this chap used the upcoming trip as an opportunity to rant against the direction of the US, immigration was ruining the country (without a trace of irony!) and then Afghanistan and Vietnam. He didn't quite put flesh to his thoughts but there was a definite vibe of "destroy them all and problem solved". It was interesting how a general and typical conversation ("Where are you headed to?") turned into a one way rant. Interesting too that he seems to be a breakfast regular in Burger King.

*There's a fair bit of farming going on. Fields tend to be big and there is evidence of tractors. For a cyclist it means lots of mud and muck where farm roads meet the main road.*



​I set off again up a bloody big hill but now I was off the main road and had the reward of much less traffic. A lot of heat though!

It was more pleasant cycling to be sure, rolling with pauses wherever I might find a bit of shade - very rare. Going up was tough, not from a cycling perspective, but from the heat - less speed meant less wind meant more sweat. Stopping was unpleasant so few photos were taken.

*Clouds doing their thing with the mountains.*



​Coming to a junction where I'd take an even smaller road (yaaay!) I pulled in at a Soda for a surprisingly large lunch. It needed a bit of digestion so I sipped a cold drink and looked a bit ahead.
I'm on a peninsula and need a ferry to cross back to the mainland. There appear to be two options, the closer, with no accommodation options (at least none that won't cost my arms and legs) or a further, hillier one that has some cheaper options. I'll not be taking the ferry today in any case as I don't fancy hitting Punta Arenas, a port town, in the dark.

Setting off again I figured I'd push myself for the far crossing although the climbing was a bit scary in this heat.
A narrower road was quieter and I have a vivid memory of seeing a lush, green field of pasture that had the most vital yellow/golden tint to it. Really, it was special, a field with a golden hue. On a camera? Nada! 

*An old bridge, not unusual in these parts. 



*​On a straight stretch with a car parked on the opposite side of the road ahead and a big truck lumbering up behind me a speeder popped up heading towards me. Quick calculations had us all in the same vicinity at the same time so I indicated right and pulled off into the verge. 
This greatly impressed the truck driver who stopped, greeted me warmly and thanked me for being so good!
Yep! He stopped to thank me for not slowing him down!
Unfortunately, setting off again he blasted me with foul, black, exhaust fumes! 

*The rivers, though? They call out to me! What would it be like to hop into a kayak and pedal on down?*



​Not quite 2pm and the sky was turning dark again. Thunder had been rolling for a while and I'd seen lightning flashing down in the distance. Rain and storms can be very local here, it's not unusual to come across a section of road totally drenched while I never saw a drop. I wasn't too worried.
Until I was approaching Jicaral. About 2km out, big, fat raindrops started lazily falling down. Then not so lazily. I pushed hard and made it to the town and grabbed a coffee at a bakery with shelter. For a few minutes it looked like a false alarm and then, from one moment to the next there was nothing false!
Rain here really is amazing! There is just so much water! Amazing too are the drainage systems, gone from bone dry to gushing rivers in minutes! 
For the guts of an hour I nursed my coffee and had a think. 
The nearest ferry crossing was 20km away. That was doable in the morning for an 8am ferry. The furthest was looking doubtful for today. 
This is the thing, light rain I can cycle in, but the heavy, heavy stuff? That's lethal in all kinds of ways. It's just not safe. And the rain wasn't finished. And the dense cloud was blocking a lot of light.

*Every bit of shade gets used!*​





When it lightened, I set off to find a motel listed in Osmand. Ruins! The rain was cyclable but if it got heavier? 
I doubled back out to the edge of town to a motel type place I'd passed. Not cheap, but cheaper than I'd find down the road. Decent wifi so I took a room.
(A good call as it turned out! The lashing rain returned within the hour!)

I had a cold shower, got to update this and had a bite to eat.
Tomorrow is an early start, race to the ferry (if I miss the one at 8 I have to wait till 12:30) and then head on down the mainland. I'll be going along the coast so accommodation is eye wateringly expensive and the options to camp are probably a bit too far away. 

*It's a funny old world. *
_*Nothing remarkable about the day. Best thing was making the coffee place before the real downpour. Then I flick through my photos for the day and I see this. 
I cycled this road! 
Today! *_
*I am spoilt!*




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## HobbesOnTour (25 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, August 18, 2021, Jicaral to Jaco 100 km Total KM 3932
Min meters -13, Max Meters 251
Total Climb 761 Total Descent 770
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 27

Back on a boat!

Not a fan of deadlines on the bike, I have to say that this morning was one of the better ones.
Up, coffee, leaving at 6 and I was flying! Minimal traffic, relative coolness and rich green countryside. Low clouds, a bit of mist, lush, still mysterious flora and the morning light can really work magic. 21 very pleasant km in one hour. And then I waited! 

*Morning light can be wonderful!*



​Eventually the ticket office opened (right as a busload of passengers arrived) and I got my ticket.
The incoming ferry arrived and watching it disgorge its cargo of people, motorcycles, cars and trucks was interesting and not a little chaotic! Then our turn.

*Costa Rica was seducing me with stunning scenery and the quiet roads to properly appreciate it*



​There was a lot of metaphorical pushing and shoving amongst the traffic - I was traffic. It made not a blind bit of difference. Two "directors of transport" indicated who got on next. It seemed neither fair nor scientific.
On board, I went to the top deck for the views.

*Now that's a view! To the right of the wake is a small wave. These were common and appeared to be a school of small, silvery fish. Every now and then the "wave" would become a heaving mass of silvery fish. I don't know if they were being chased by bigger fish underneath or if this was their normal mode of travel*



​It was a very pleasant crossing in the sense of the views, to be sure, but it seems as I have travelled south people have become less friendly, less engaging. Trying to figure out why I was feeling less likely to take photos on the ferry I realised that people aren't smiling. A group of teenage lads, probably a football team, seemed to dominate the area and a chill was in the air despite the temperature.

*The very, very quiet beachfront at Puntarenas. It looked nice bit there was precious little relief from the very hot sun.*



​Puntarenas was chaos! Off the boat it was an unpleasant free for all. I was glad I hadn't arrived in the dark!
I ignored Gizmo and headed for the "beach" and a surprisingly empty road. First impressions can be deceiving and my initial impression of a beautiful scene was corrected by the sight of the "beach".

I was hungry but the only places open (and not many of those) seemed to be operated by or serving people on their way home from last night. I passed.

I also passed Tsunami escape signs! Since México warning signs on public buildings covered fire and earthquake. Now I have to think of Tsunamis as well! 

*The beach at Puntarenas



*​The port at Puntarenas is at the tip of a long, narrow peninsula. I joined the main road that was either 2,3 or 4 lanes. Eventually a cycle path showed up in the middle and I was very relieved to take it.

Soon, I was back out in the country on a rough bike lane of sorts. Leaving Puntarenas was both a blessing and a curse. It was a bit crazy (blessing) but I hadn't eaten and needed water (curse). I stuck to the bike "lane" even when it got bad because if offered shade! The road was scorching. I could feel my skin prickling in the heat.

At a bridge, shoulder and bike lane disappeared and on the other side a woman and two children were watching monkeys in a tree. I stopped but the sun was unbearable. 
Then the path got really rough with rocks and roots but I stuck with it up a climb for the shade. The heat is really something to be experienced!

Spying a shop back from the road I pulled in for a big cold drink and some snacks to fill my belly. It wasn't healthy food but I was taking no chances on something better showing up for a while.
While sitting in the shade, I was called over to see a family of monkeys visiting (and a healthy, large iguana!). There's a "monkey" mountain behind the house and the monkeys come down for bananas that they leave out for them!
What a delightful and unexpected treat! 

*Down from "monkey mountain" for a banana!*



​On again and the bike path petered out. There was a shoulder of varying widths that allowed progress, if not exactly comfortable due to traffic.
I was cutting inland now, away from the ocean and the road was rolling with a fair bit of climbing. 
I'd been hoping to come across a cheap motel type place but there was nothing.
Coming to a junction I took the exit for the coast again to find it was a toll road. No problem - I was waved through. But then the rain started.
Spying a roadside restaurant I pulled in for some sausages and chips - I needed salt!






The rain never progressed beyond a heavy drizzle so I set off again. Next on the itinerary was the Crocodile Bridge! 
I don't know if it's me or something else but it was both exactly what I expected and yet not.
A long bridge with separated pedestrian walkways it's easy to walk along to an island near the middle where the crocs hang out. There's quite a few and it is an impressive sight. But there's also lots of other people there! A couple of them were the identikit examples of spoilt brats, shouting and screaming. Their adults weren't much better, hogging the prime spot and refusing to move. 
People throw food down for their entertainment which disappointed me and, of course, there are a couple of guys hanging around to "guide" newcomers to the spot (just walk across the bridge to where the other people are!!) and to sell "genuine" crocodile teeth attached to ribbons.

*From the crocodile bridge*



​Andy Peat's photos (CGOAB) have stuck in my head since I first saw them. A very different scene and proof that he was in a very different part of the world. I'm sure that mine are similar to his and yes, they are evidence that I'm far from home, the human behaviour wasn't all that strange at all!
I was more impressed at the overall vista - a big river and a wide, varied landscape with the ability to stop safely and photograph it. 
The cynical part of me wondered why cattle along the shore, only a couple of hundred meters downstream from these killing machines looked so comfortable. Just how well fed (and therefore stage managed) are these crocs?
I preferred my impromptu sighting a couple of days ago just as my monkey experience this morning is preferable to taking one of the many, many tours advertised.

*The Cynical Shot. All the crocs had to do was drift downstream......



*​Back on the road again it was looking like Jaco would be my destination making today a bit long. Unfortunately, to get to Jaco there was a 200 meter climb straight up (with lots of big numbers on Osmand) and then steeper back to sea level. For nothing!

I did see a sign for a campground, followed a bumpy track to find it closed so braced myself for one last push before I lost the light.

It was not pleasant. For some reason the traffic was now in big packs - on both sides. A climbing lane just encouraged people to be idiots so I gave up cycling and pushed. It was safer. 

*From the pointless climb*



​There wasn't even a decent view at the top and the descent was very uncomfortable because there was no shoulder at all. 

In fading light I hit Jaco, another "surf" town. Hotels are crazy expensive and any cheaper looking places were so divey looking I'd need a wetsuit to survive.
A campground in town looked closed, but would have been very noisy.
Hopping out of town to a Paintball/BMX/Skateboard place mentioned on iOverlander I was made most welcome. 
I popped back into town to buy some food, returned and cooked up eggs and tomatoes to eat with pepperoni on (horrible) bread.

I am not enjoying these towns. Way too touristy for me. I did not come to Central America to eat wood fired Pizza and I have no idea how a restaurant in Jaco, Costa Rica can claim to have the "Original Belgian Waffles". 
I particularly dislike how access to the beach is closed off by private businesses. There are more than a few shifty looking characters. They yell out to me all the time trying to earn a commission for tours or restaurants. One guy yelled at me about taking an adventure tour. I wanted to yell back just what the hell did he think I was doing??
I can go canyoning, ziplining, surfing, banana boating, skydiving, all terrain vehicling, monkey tours, crocodile tours, helicopter tours. And a chocolate tour!😀

I didn't have to worry about the rain falling all night - I set up beside the BMX ramps under a roof!


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, August 19, 2021, Jaco to Bandera 51 km Total KM 3983
Min meters 25, Max Meters 61
Total Climb 163 Total Descent 151
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 32

Short day and meeting the wildlife

Despite the kindness that I received at my camping spot, there were two barriers to a good night's sleep. One was traffic thundering on the nearby road and the other was fire ants who seemed to have conquered the site. Getting into the tent was done swiftly and antless ( or so I believed) but the thing with ants, or similar creepy crawlies, is that if you are aware of them, they can be everywhere - even just the mind. Many, many times I was awakened by phantoms crawling on me.

Up at six I had coffee and set off back to look at Jaco in daylight. It wasn't my smartest move.
Depressing is the word that comes to mind. Higgledy-piggledy rows of surfshops, tour offices, bars, restaurants and fast food places, all closed at that early hour.
The shifty crew were out, trying to entice me to do something, anything. I found a place for a bite of breakfast and used their internet to check my mail. I need to make an appointment to get a Covid test and I can't seem to do it online. I'd bought a sim card a few days ago but can't get it to work. The company has a store in Jaco so I decided to wait until it opened at 9.

*The rather disappointing beachfront at Jaco. I don't like to see beaches as commercial zones*



​I'm planning a shortish day today for no other reason than my Covid test is in the next big town and after that it's a race to the border. My info on Panama is that I won't be doing too much wandering there, either!

*Once I got going things became more pleasant*



​It took a long, long time to get my card working and at last I was on the road. Oh, the traffic!
After a few kms I came to a kind of viewing point and could look back on Jaco. Best of all though, a little further on there were Macaws or Quetzals in the trees. Their voices are harsh but they fly so gracefully! A group of young ones were playing, dive bombing. I felt very privileged!
I suppose this is the contrast with Costa Rica and the other Central American countries - here the animals have survived and continue to thrive. Having said that, I haven't seen any traditional clothing either.

*The Ocean. The Pacific Ocean! I still get a little thrill when I say Pacific! It means I've travelled far!*



​Back in the road it was curvy, hot, rolling, hot and busy at times. Most traffic was coming against me, some too close. I had a shoulder that varied in width and was regularly filled with stones, gravel or mud from the many side roads. There were many crash barriers but most had been consumed by the plant life!
I had an encounter with one of the surf heads. Cycling along a feckin' idiot appears in front of me from behind a parked bus yelling "Yeah maaaaaaaan! I love your attituuuuuuuuuuude" while sticking his fist out for a fistbump. His addled brain clearly didn't process the fact that he was driving me into traffic! He very nearly got a fistbump alright - right to the head.

*You may have to look hard but there is a Quetzal (Macaw) up there!*



​I find myself missing México and its chaos. I rarely felt unsafe. There was a kind of benovalance to the madness, lots of smiles and sheepish shrugs but always the idea that people were watching out for each other. That's lacking here. No. 1 is all that matters.

On a figary I turned down a side road to the coast and travelled a couple of kms on a beach road. More Quetzals in a tree, again all to myself. I set off again, found a store and bought the ingredients for an impromptu picnic on the thin beach. While eating, an iguana came over to say hello!
This is my kind of touring!

*Bimbling along the beach. I was going the wrong way but what did that matter? The road went "the wrong way" and I wanted to explore it - the glory of a short day!*



​It is very hard not to be impressed by such a thing!

Back on the main road I was making decent progress. The place I was going to (camping again) was a Swiss run place, hard to find, but with great reviews on iOverlander. I tried to call now that I had a working phone but I had no signal.

*One of my better "eat at the side of the road" spots!*



​I got lost on my first attempt, came at it from a different angle down deceptive gravel roads with big puddles and arrived at the place.
For sale or rent!
There was no answer to the bell but a sign saying to ask Mario in a shop down the road. I located Mario, very friendly and very impressed with my journey and he cycled back with me to let me in.
There's a Swiss couple caretaking (not the owners) with not a word of Spanish or English between them. I was back to relying on my German! Oh dear!
They were very friendly, he seemed delighted to be able to speak German (I couldn't crush his bubble and nodded and smiled at what I hoped were appropriate times) as he rabbited on.
There's a French family here too - No German, only French & Spanish! It was very, very confusing!

*My iguana friend at lunch! As a terrible sissy who hates creepy crawlies I had dreaded the exposure this trip might force upon me. As things have turned out I seem to be braver than I gave myself credit for!*



​I have a roof over my tent and a nice relaxing place to stay. Decent Wifi too - but no phone signal.

The plan tomorrow is an early departure, ride the 35km to Quepos and try to talk them into giving me a test without an appointment.
After that I have 72 hours to get to the border!

*On the way to the campground. Big, gloomy Palm forests can have a chilling effect*



​Oh, once I get my Paypal sorted, hopefully easier with a working phone, I'll be booking passage on a boat leaving from south east Panama to Colombia, departing September 10!
Back on a boat! That's something to be looking forward to!

*It's always nice to make a new friend! It's difficult to tell from the photo but he came to within a meter of me as I ate. *




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 20, 2021, Bandera to Uvita 102 km Total KM 4085
Min meters -29, Max Meters 89
Total Climb 270 Total Descent 259
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 27

Jagged Little Hills

The nights are hot in the tent! Just getting in works up a sweat! My sleeping bag liner (all I sleep on or in) is starting to stink! I did debate whether to move the tent outside to benefit from whatever breeze there is, but the risk is rain. And a slower departure. I stayed where I was.

*These early morning starts can be rewarding!*



​Awake before the alarm I appreciated the silence of the morning. Then up and started coffee. It's amazing how much of a mess I can make when given the space! I set about getting packed, enjoyed my coffee and set about packing up my tent.
My Swiss friend was up to walk two fabulous looking shepherds down to the beach a few kms away. He was amazed by my tent and the ease it came down and got packed away. He should see my pyramid one!

I'll say one thing for a Swiss run place - it had the softest, gentlest, kindest toilet paper my poor bum has been exposed to in ages!

Once I'd had my coffee I could feel that little knot of anxiety kick in down in my belly. The what-ifs of the day. No appointment, hoping to be able to walk up and get the test, then, once I had the test starting a race to the border.
Just after 6am I was leaving to pleasant farewells from the Swiss.
At the gate I took a deep breath and turned the wrong way.
To the beach.
Not today, anxiety, I said.
Not today.
*Not today*



​I bounced and slid a few kms down to quite a nice beach that had picnic tables as well. At that hour no-one around to bother me - just the big waves breaking and a few vultures. I checked and the anxiety was gone. Time to hit the road.

I retraced my steps along the gravel, around the potholes, through the big puddles until I joined the main road. Busy!
I joined the busyness. Cool at that hour I put the foot down. There were more than a few people travelling by bike so I got to zoom past them when traffic permitted, or slow right down when it didn't.

*If someone had told me I'd be cycling through a field of Palm trees on a bouncy, adventurous road I'd have been delighted! The reality is a tad gloomier and darker than I'd have imagined!*



​At the next town I pulled in to a bakery for a snack and some juice then back on the road with slightly lighter traffic.

Views were few but forested hills came to life as the sun rose. One view, dead ahead, was perfect, green and blue mountains standing proudly over low clouds. Except they weren't clouds - it was smoke from a plant that when I passed figured was maybe a place for processing palm oil.

*Early morning scenery*



​Arriving into Quepos well ahead of time I pulled in for another cold drink and to look at the ocean. I am drinking gallons of liquids in these conditions.

Finding the (private) hospital for the test was tricky despite having gps - it's just one of a number of commercial units in a gated marina/mall.
A friendly lady at the gate confirmed I was in the right place and assured me my bike would be safe.
Even finding the place in the compound was not easy but spying a nurse I turned on the charm and was practically walked up the stairs to the place.

It all took less than an hour - I'm getting good at this! - and I was back on the road, my results arriving by email later.

*Just one of many rivers crossed today. Some are muddy brown, others much clearer. Always when I see rivers or cycle along them the idea starts knocking around of a bike/kayak trip. A collapsible kayak, a fold up bike, camping gear - the adventures are endless!*



​A tough climb out of town, some nice, twisty roads and I rejoined the main road.
Where to? As far south as I can go! The border is about 200km away and I have 72 hours to get through! The more I do today, the less over the next couple of days.
If I push myself today I might get to camp again tonight.

After about an hour with a hunger nibbling at my belly I pulled into a large soda for an omelette and coffee. It probably seats about 200 people (with parking for no more than 50!) and is very different from my preferred smaller places. The waitress replies with "Mucho Gusto" to each request (with great pleasure) but her tone and body language says otherwise.

*When I say that Costa Rica is teeming with life and it is all around me this is what I mean! This is right beside me as I ride. I can touch it. It wets me after rain. I can hear animals moving around when I stop. Glorious!*



​The next border crossing is in my own hands now. 200 km. I can do that. I'm back in control and that feels good.

I set off again full of vim and vigour. Today seemed to be slightly cooler and a bit of wind helped too. The road ran along the coast then turned inland then back to the coast all day long. Inland, even though not that far from the ocean, I was likely to hit invisible clouds of hot, wet air.
It's really difficult to undersell the importance of a regular cold drink when I'm breathing hot air all the time. The relief is amazing! Tepid does not cut it.

*When I can forget about the traffic it really is a magnificent place *



​There was a particularly long, straight stretch through a palm tree forest. These were not happy palms, looking dark and unhealthy. I believe I'm in Palm Oil farming country. Quite spooky in fact. If Costa Rica damages my affinity for Palm Trees I'm going to be one very unhappy bunny!

*The Palm Tree Straight. Dull, borderline spooky and possibly detrimental to my image of a Palm as a happy, joyful tree!*



​I was keeping my eyes open for a place to stay but seeing little, and none in my price range and feeling pretty good I just kept on going. If I can hit 100km I know of camping options in iOverlander. I had a pretty decent shoulder and that helped enormously with keeping a decent speed.

Despite being very close to the ocean I only got to see it in bits and pieces. Normally there were trees in the way. But the other side was always interesting with heavily planted hills, waterfalls and several rivers to be crossed. Some were an orange brown from mud while others were the most alluring blue/green crystal. More than once I stopped and looked for a way down. A quick dip would be glorious! (Was it yesterday I was looking at crocodiles in a river?).

*Taking a detour to the Pacific! I had a chat with myself here to remind myself just how damn lucky I am to be able to turn off and visit the Pacific - the feckin' Pacific! - at will.*



​I stopped off at a filling station for a cold drink, an ice cream and to top up my tyres and got a bonus visit from an iguana!
Bold as brass he wandered around the forecourt not bothered by the noise or the smells nor by me in hot pursuit! It felt very "real", normal and nobody else seemed interested.

Having not seen the ocean for a while I pulled off at the small town of Dominical and checked out the beach. Apparently it's possible to camp at a restaurant.
There was a pleasant open air craft market and lots of hostels and lots and lots of guys hanging out in the beach to give surfing lessons. With about 25km to get to Uvita I decided to press on.

The last stretch was the most difficult. It was lumpy, lumpy enough for a climbing lane to appear a few times and busy too. I passed a sign indicating that this was the gathering point for those fleeing a tsunami and presumed that the worst of the climbing was over. Almost.

I did stop at a shaded bus stop at the top of one climb and was again captivated for ages by ants marching both directions on a narrow line. The industry is amazing! The speed is phenomenal! Perhaps I'm going a bit loopy but I found it very interesting!

The last stretch wasn't too bad as I was able to skip past most of the town. Down a side road and almost at the beach I found my place, was welcomed by a guy working on a roof and told to pitch where I wanted.
Once down he came over for a chat and to give me two tarps - one for under and the other for over the tent. I've wifi, very basic toilets and a shower and a beautiful location where I can hear the sea. Best of all it's away from the mayhem!

I left my gear and hit a nearby store for food for dinner and a bit more alcohol for the trangia.
While cooking I got the tent set up just in time for rain!

I've eaten well, have a table and chair under a roof and am waiting for the rain to stop. Osmand tells me I have 139km to the border and email tells me I failed my Covid test - negative.

It's coming back! Some of the joy that has been replaced by grumpiness was tangible today. For the next while I'm in charge of my own destiny. No tests. No deadlines. No rules.
That feels good.

*When this is the road to my camping spot I just know I'm in for a treat!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, August 21, 2021, Uvita to Rio Claro 102 km Total KM 4187
Min meters 9, Max Meters 144
Total Climb 699 Total Descent 658
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 30


Getting sick of racing for the border!


That feeling of control I was prattling on about yesterday? That came back to bite me in the ass!
Feckin' online forms!!!

My dinner last night was fabulous even if I say so myself.
Herbed sausages, cooked slowly, mixed in with a meaty tomato sauce and pasta shells (I was at the coast!). Delicious! 

Afterwards, I set about utilising the wifi to log my visit to Panamá. There's an online form that I'd checked out before and now that I had my Covid test I could complete it.
Every country is different in the information they want. Panamá wanted next of kin info. An accommodation address was easy thanks to Google. My date of birth a nightmare - an automatic calendar that made me go back month by month to nineteen feckin' seventy two!!!

All completed and the system said no. I checked, double checked, took a break and went back to triple check.
I started off fresh. My feckin' date of birth - again! Still no.
About three hours I spent until my phone died. 

*My camping spot. The ocean is behind the trees. I'd have heard the waves the night before only for the rain! *



​I'm pretty sure I can supply the info at the border - it just means everything might go slower. That means a Monday morning crossing might make the Covid test invalid - it's only "live" for 72 hours.
Feck! Feck! Triple Feck!

I ducked through the rain to the tent and it didn't take long to fall asleep. It was past 10pm and normally with the tent I'm in before 8.

I slept ok, but it was hot. Up at six, slowly, made coffee and even a light breakfast - boiled eggs, bread and peanut butter.
Dumbass had forgotten about an avacado in his food bag - that required a clean up!
The tent was surprisingly dry so I got that packed up. I even had another shot at the Panamanian immigration form. Ha! Dumbass!

I decided to make today a long one so as to give me as much breathing space at the border. I do not want to catch a bus back to the Capital, do another Covid test and bus back to the border.

*Back on the road and facing into a long day. But the scenery!*



​I took a quick look at the beach and then headed off. A quick, stiff climb greeted me and after that lots of ups and downs. The early traffic was not bike friendly, a theme that carried on through the day. The majority were fine but there were enough asswipes, evenly spread along the road, that relaxing was difficult. 
I passed Tortega beach and cursed Covid. There would have been nothing to see at this hour but this is a turtle hatching beach. 
Later, I'd pass a turnoff for a supposedly great camping spot in the jungle and miss the chance to camp at a Costa Rican church. (Surprisingly, I've come across a few accounts of the Bomberos (fire brigade) refusing a roof in Costa Rica).
I was grumpy again. A lovely, interesting, laid back route could have been done along here. Feck you, Covid.

*The depth, variety sheer life that exits along the road, right beside me, is a joy to behold*



​At Palmar Norte I rejoined the Pan-American after crossing a huge, wide, brown river and immediately lost my shoulder. That helped my mood!

In fairness, tbough, Costa Rica is never boring to cycle through. There is always something to see, often something to hear and even sometimes something to feel - even if that is cloying heat. In fact, so interesting is the landscape that it was quite a while before I realised that I'd left the Pacific behind and won't be seeing it for a while! 

*Not quite the wildlife I expected to see! At a petrol station of all places. A couple on MTBs pulled up for a selfie with the dinosaur so I offered to take one of the two of them. It's a trick I've been using since México to strike up a conversation but this time it didn't work. They just ignored me!*



​I was making good, steady progress (except on the uphill bits) 

I had crossed innumerable rivers, some small, some larger but all with narrow, dangerous bridges to stop on. At Piedras Blancas (white rocks) I took a chance and parked up at the end of the bridge.
Bad move. A passing truck created such a draught the bike fell over. 
Normally, a loaded bike falling over isn't a big deal - panniers are like buffers! Not this time!
The first thing I noticed was my mirror got smashed to pieces. And my handlebars no longer pointed forward. 
In the meantime the peaceful river had become a raging torrent!

*Piedras Blancas - White Rocks*



​I got straightened out and set off again up a hill. Then my rear gear changer seized. There was feck all I could do on a shoulderless road so I made do until I came to a bus stop. The cable seemed fine - it worked when I pulled it by hand. Then I saw the problem. 
My hair band brake "locks" had fallen off when the bike fell. I wasn't careful putting them back on and one had got caught around the trigger. An easy fix! 

*Piedras Blancas six minutes later! That's some serious floodwater! And an omen of what's to come!*



​According to the map I was passing through several small towns but according to reality I passed a few houses every now and then. I had hoped to have better accommodation options but now it looked like Rio Claro would be my destination.

*A Palm Graveyard*



​The next concern was the weather. Ominous looking clouds were massing on my left. Drops of rain threatened a few times but never got too serious. I stopped at a couple of bus stops just in case but the rain held at light.
At one, I saw a terribly sad sight. A very recently killed dog, lying in the long grass in a gully beside the road was being searched for by a smaller, straggly, mongrel. On the quiet road I could see him trying (and failing) to follow the scent of his buddy. Then traffic came and he panicked. With him running to and fro on the road, a truck in one lane, an SUV in another and me jumping up and down waving arms it's a miracle nothing happened. 

*The last photo before the rain started to fall*



​The dog wouldn't come to me (probably just as well - what was I going to do with a dog) but returned to sniffing around the middle of the road.
For his own safety I three stones at him until he wandered off up a lane and, I presume, home.

*Passing through some more spooky Palm forests*



​That'll put a dampener on any day so I wasn't that bothered that Rio Claro wasn't exactly an architectural wonder, but more a busy town built around a crossroads. I found a cheap motel-like place, had a cold shower, found the only bike shop in town to be looked at like a lunatic for asking about a mirror, ate a reasonable pizza and went to bed. 

*Costa Rica - it really is a lush, captivating place*​






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 22, 2021, Rio Claro (Costa Rica) to David (Panamá) 89 km Total KM 4276
Min meters 27, Max Meters 290
Total Climb 532 Total Descent 475
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 30

Border Bureaucrats B*lli*ing up my day!

I hated Panama even before I had turned one pedal stroke in the place.
Given the run around Costa Rica gave me trying to leave that was some job by Panamá!

Up about six I was feeling strange this morning. I went without coffee but ate some peanut butter and bread. I figured I'd grab a coffee on the road.

*Heading off to country number seven!*



​Before leaving town I went to a bank for dollars (Panamá uses dollars) but none were available so I set off. About 30km to the border. After that who knew?

A couple of boy racers kept me focused and I can't really say that I particularly enjoyed my last day in C.R. I found a dual currency ATM in the next town, got some dollars and set off again. Still no coffee though.

*Still got time to photograph a river!*



​A line of trucks told me I was approaching the border.
I found the CR immigration building more by chance than design, queued (with no-one in front if me) for a very unhelpful and uninterested lady. 
As it turned out, I had to cross the road to a yellow building to pay my exit tax.
No problem!
There were actually several buildings offering the service - I had my pick. 
Tomorrow. Because they were all closed today.
I went back to Ms. Unhelpful who agreed that, yes, they were all closed - until tomorrow, Monday!
And no, there were no alternatives.

To say that I was peed off would be an understatement. Two days racing to get here in plenty of time in case of a foul up and I'm going to lose a day doing nothing in a crappy border town.
There was a whole online rigmarole I had to complete to enter Costa Rica - would it be beyond expectations to have similar to pay an exit tax?

*Back to my happy place!*



​Ms Unhelpful was particularly obnoxious. I watched her time after time direct people across the road. I saw their confidence falter as one after another it became clear that the offices were closed. I saw the confusion as they wandered back to her window and watched the disappointment fall over them.

I bought a coke (for the caffeine), smoked a couple of ciggies and thought.
I could just leave! What's the worst that could happen? 
I decided to play the long game and watch what was happening. I wasn't the only one in this situation. 
Sure enough, a man approached me and directed me to a building across the street. I checked, it seemed legit and paid my fee to leave, with a bit of a tip.

Back at immigration Ms Whatever was gone and a new guy checked my passport, never checked my receipt and sent me on my way!!

Panamá here I come!!

There's a busy shopping street between both posts and spotting a bike shop I popped in. I needed glue for puncture repairs and asked about a mirror. Glue wasn't an issue and the two hombres set off like men on a mission for the mirror! They knew they had one - somewhere!
One lad came back with a huge motorbike one and as I was outside trying to see if ut would work he found a cheapy, Chinese one. Sold!

I was delighted and in great form heading for Panama.

*The Panamanian Immigration building. There are no barriers, people can walk over and back. And do. My printing (and a Covid test had I done one) were in Panama. *



​The immigration building was easier to find so I got my stuff ready: 
Covid Test - on the phone
Covid Vaccine - on the phone plus paper copy.
Passport.
All the info that could slow me down - hotel in Panama with all contact info etc. 
I was ready!

First I was given a form to fill in with most of the same info from the online form that wouldn't process. But no pen!

Done, I rejoined the queue and was asked for my Covid test. I handed over the phone.
No. Paper copy only.
I set off to find a copy place (easy) but I had no internet to email the file.
Back to bike, unpack adapters and manually transfer file to a memory stick.

I was ready for everything! I got it printed.

Back in line. Presented the paper copy of my negative test.
No good. It needs a stamp from the clinic and signature of doctor.

I could feel the anger rising but I tried to keep calm. I've a record of a chat conversation I had more than a week ago about this and no mention. Also, it IS possible to get a Covid test at the border - the complete opposite of what I was told.
None of the "rules" said anything about such conditions.

I raced 200 km to here for sweet f**k all.

I had two options - go get a local Covid test or wait for the Jefe/Boss to rule on the validity of my Covid test.

I'm waiting. 

This isn't even immigration proper. This is a medical hoop to jump through.
An American couple were also incredibly stressed out and opted to get local Covid tests (despite having Costa Rican ones). Then they also had to prove they were departing the country - a rental car agreement from San Jose, Costa Rica wasn't proof enough! 
And all I have is a bike!!

I sat on the steps and waited. 
I saw a guy who seemed to be a trouble shooter occasionally taking money from people. 
I checked once if there was any word from the boss. No.
That feeling of being in control I was boasting about? That was shattered!
I had done all that was asked. I had tried to be respectful at every stage, to follow the instructions.
The man, though, was obnoxious. Several times I explained that I couldn't understand what to do next only to get a barrage of angry Spanish.
I'd tried to interpret for the older couple and I think that really annoyed him. 

I saw him going away so checked to see his replacement and was disappointed to see it was the same lady I'd talked to earlier.
Then a young couple showed up and despite having passed the "doctor" formalities they couldn't proceed either.
In chatting, I saw that they had the exact same results as me. I questioned why theirs were accepted to find out he'd done the same to them!
When he returned to the office they got the all clear, so did I and, at last, I could begin the immigration process.

That took about five minutes - photos, fingerprints and my bike was taken as proof of my onward travel. (That really peed off the couple who had been forced to buy two bus tickets they wouldn't use - $90!

*Taken on the wrong side of the road, my first view of Panamá proper. A bloody big hill! I was drained after my immigration experience*



​I was exhausted! I'd arrived about 9:30 and it was well after 2pm now. The idea of taking a hotel at the border had appeal but honestly I just wanted to get as far away from that place as possible.
Finding a bakery I munched down some fuel and hit the Pan American again.

What is it with new countries and hills? It didn't matter. They could have laid mines, dug trenches and had an Indiana Jones style boulder come rushing down the hill and I still would have powered up - anything to get away from that feckin' border!!

*Now we're talking!! A big four lane split highway! That's the Pan American! And a separate lane for me for bridges! *



​My first impression of Panamá had to do with the road - 4 wide lanes, split, with a very generous shoulder! This is what a Pan Continental road looks like!
Once that novelty wore off I realised the stark difference to Costa Rica. Vegetation was nowhere near as dense. In fact, I developed a mental image of huge earth movers scraping everything out of the way to make this road. I could almost hear the sounds of anguish, plant and animal, in the roar of every car and truck going by. And litter. Lots of roadside litter.
It's not often that there is such a startling change in such a small distance.

One thing that did impress me though was that bridges had a separated lane for pedestrians/bike in place of the shoulder. A good thing given that there are a lot of rivers.

*Looking back.....*



​Truthfully, my mind was on La Concepción about 30km down (and up) the road. It was the first civilisation and had a hostal, or simple hotel. My first night in Panamá!

The cycling was nothing to write home about - big road, shoulder, dull landscape. Then after about 10km I faced into about 10km of climbing. Hot. Very hot! 
At the top I spied a filling station and they had coffee! I was only about 10km away but a coffee never hurts! I found a kerb and drank a coffee and two liters of water.

*Panamá has rivers too! And safe spaces to enjoy them!*



​Back on the road a few raindrops threatened but held off. To my left dark, angry clouds were moving in and I figured I might just make it. La Concepción turned out to be larger, or longer, than I was expecting - very American, I thought. I arrived at the hotel to find it closed. 
Oh no!!!! This is not what I wanted!!!

It was getting dark and I was going to have to continue. I knew I had it in my legs, I just didn't have it in my head. 
I thought back over my morning, the unhelpful Costa Rican, the obstructive Panamanian and I set off. Fury fuelled! 
In fairness, it was mainly downhill but I still pumped like a madman. The few ascents I powered up in the big ring like a man possessed. 
I could have had a peaceful, relaxing ride but instead I had this.

*The clocks changed with the border crossing. Instead of dark at 6 I had an extra hour of light*



​David is a big place! Traffic picked up and from the edge of town I lost the shoulder. It didn't make a huge difference - I was speeding along.
One place had come in for positive comments on iOverlander so I headed there. Full! 
At least it was in a hotel neighborhood so I cruised around a bit rejecting any places that I'd have to go upstairs. I found a better standard than normal for a decent - Panamanian - price and checked in.
Shower, laundry and out for some food. I even treated myself to a beer.

Thank feck today is over!

*Panamá. Country number seven*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Tuesday, August 24, 2021, David to Las Lejas 80km Total KM 4356
Min meters 57, Max Meters 139
Total Climb 844 Total Descent 665
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 32

If Costa Rica is the Cruel Mistress then Panama is her dull sister.

There are days when we wake up and say "No". Yesterday was one of those days.
I was very very tired - physically and mentally.
I had a think and decided that as little as I liked Panamá already (and I wasn't expecting much) it would have no hope of changing my current state of mind.
I'd negotiated the lowest possible rate the night before - would they honour it for another one? Yes they would! Sold!

*A dull, grey road, a dull grey sky. A dull, grey day. *



​Even in a better hotel than I'm used to the water is still cold so I was awake quicker. Very tired though.
First job was to replace my front brake pads. Replaced for departure from CDMX it was about time.
Then I went looking for a Panamanian sim card. I need to sort out my Paypal and need a reliable phone number.

*Dull, grey countryside. It's not often that I feel so uninspired, but the greyness was seeping in to me.*



​There's a lot of the US in Panama, so far. After Costa Rica, a lot of noise too! The beeping taxis are back. They are infuriating! Don't be surprised if you see in the foreign news section of some lone loon going loco and attacking taxis in some Panamanian city - that'll be me!
With all the grief at the border I never got to exchange my Costa Rican currency. I tried a bank here and it was deemed a bizarre request. "At the border" I was told!

*Even when there is a bit of colour, it's brown! Hardly the most stimulating colour!*



​Panama City is a weird one. I know nothing about it and have no desire to change that. But it appears I have to visit and visiting on a bike is not fun.
What should be a highlight (for me!) is crossing the Panama Canal except that's suicidal. I believe the Police ferry cyclists across in vans. Except Sundays.
Parts of city traffic are limited on Sundays, but I'm not sure about the bridge. In any case, it's huge, sprawling and not my idea of fun. I am not looking forward to it!

*Oooooh! Some brightness! Is my day about to change?*



I also had time to communicate properly with the boat people. Apparently, they waived my need to front up a deposit - apparently I have an honest email style!
That's a bit of pressure off.
They've sent me through more information (other passengers will be shuttling from Panama City). I honestly have no idea of anything but there's a boat that leaves September 10. Food? Nada? Accommodation? Nada!
A boat and arrival in Colombia is all I want!
The crossing will be about 5 days, weather permitting with a couple of side trips.

*No matter what I did there was nothing I could do to pull myself out of a dull mental palette. It was simply riding from A to B. So little joy, excitement or anything to tap into.*



​I wasn't particularly impressed with David. A big, big town, busy, lots of people just hanging around. I felt on edge on my wanderings. Unusually for me I couldn't find a decent place to eat either night and what I did eat was disappointing and overpriced.

Why is all this in a post about going from A to B?
Because there is nothing much to write about the actual journey!
Panama continues to underwhelm!

*The Underwhelming Highway! And that's rain coming in!*



​I set off under dull, grey skies onto a dull, grey road.
It became progressively more hot, humid and unpleasant as the day wore on. To look at me you'd think I had been swimming - every stitch of clothing is soaking.
I stopped for a dull, uninspiring meal of rice, beef and fried banana. Even the banana was sad.

*Rain in Las Lejas*



​With about 10km to go to my destination, Las Lajas, the rain started. It's a small, stretched out village located about 10km from the coast. More in hope I spied an ice cream shop and enquired about coffee - yes! I nearly danced a jig!

*That Schweppes! Strong stuff! In all seriousness, even the dogs were dull!



*​Outside, under cover, savouring my coffee I met a Belgian family. We swapped a few Dutch jokes to bond and exchanged stories. On the road four years(!) they have a small tent on the roof of an SUV and a trailer tent. Two adults and three kids - 4 years! I joked about how many had set off!

The kids don't do any schooling at all, the youngest being 9 (and barely remembers home), the eldest being about 15.
I'm sure it's a great experience for them, but what of their furure without any formal education or homeschooling?

*Exactly one year ago, another rainy day, but in CDMX. Never dull! Never grey!



*​They did tell me of a hostel back up the road so after they'd left and I finished my coffee I headed back up.
A lovely place, run alongside a gym, the owner is a frantic, hyperactive, kickboxing fanatic and German to boot. My "shared" dorm was just me. I even had hot water in the shower!
A decent kitchen meant I could cook up some food and had a very pleasant evening chatting to the only other resident, a chap from Cologne where I used to live!

'tis a small, small world!

*Now this would have made today more fun!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, August 25, 2021, Las Lejas to Campamento Evangelico La Buena Esperanza, La Mesa 92km Total KM 4448
Min meters 36, Max Meters 450
Total Climb 1350Total Descent 1241
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 28

Hell...... And Heaven

Panamá, after Costa Rica is a bit like going on a date with yer wan down the pizza place after being out with Marissa Tomei - there's some semblance of similarity but you have to squint really, really hard!

Today was going to be a long one and a hard one. For that reason I was up in the darkness a little after 5 and set about making coffee and boiling a few eggs.
Christian, the owner, was up too and his frantic energy put me a little ill at ease. Easily cured, though, by retiring to the balcony and watching the sun come up.




​By rights I shouldn't have dallied, but this was a beautiful sight, in Panama no less! Somehow it didn't seem right to rush off.
I did, however, forego any urge to bike the 10km or so down to the beach. Another 20km onto a day that might see me break 100 was off-putting.

*The morning was pretty. *



​I set off into a delightfully fresh morning with the sun shining. 
There are two kinds of heat here - what I call "sun heat" - relatively clear skies and a hot, hot sun and "cloud heat" where dense cloud covers the sky, all heat is trapped beneath and I cook in a wet, steamy oven.
I far prefer the former but it lasted only a short time and cloud heat returned.
At one stage, later in the day I was so hot, so tired that I actually lay down in the shoulder for a bit of relief. The surface was roasting so I wasted no time hopping up! There was a sweatpatch, the shape of a weary cyclist on the shoulder!

*Getting brighter and still enjoying my coffee*



​Sweating in these parts is different to any sweating I've done before.
For example, at the end of the day my fingers have that wrinkled effect like I've been swimming.
My ass is suffering too, no doubt because my underwear is damp, then wet within the hour. I don't wear padded shorts and would hate to think what they would be like at the end of a day here! 
Salty sweat soon overpowers my bandana so my eyes can water with all the salt dripping down. 
I'm trying a different t-shirt and the nipples are protesting less. As much as I'd prefer my Merino top I think it would quickly wear out with all the moisture and I'll be needing it (hopefully) down the road.
I wring the t-shirt out at the end of the day like it's been sitting in a bucket of water.
The most prevalent feeling though is just bleh. A constant, low level thirst that never really goes away and is never sated for long. A cold drink is glorious - for a moment. Then the feeling returns.
At times I'll stop for a pee having felt a familiar pressure only to find there's a dribble. I think my brain is going "he drank two liters of water in the last hour, he needs to pee", while my bladder is going "you're forgetting he's sweated most of that out already!".
Or maybe I'm just getting old!

*Heading off into a long day....*



​Perhaps I'm tired but practically nothing of interest happened when I was in the bike. Nothing. Nada. Zilch.
The road is great, seems unusually quiet but is incredibly boring. My eyes look, my ears listen but my imagination does nothing. No spark. Nada.
I try to think about the boat and unusually for me, cannot drum up any enthusiasm. Colombia, it seems, is becoming my Promised Land!

*The long and winding road*



​The greatest excitement was that at times the shoulder was overgrown and I'd be forced onto the road.
The worst, though, were the hills - two monsters, one after the other - straight up and straight down. Their location, later in the day, meant I hit them at the worst possible time in the highest temperatures.
The rest of the day was an unrelenting rolling grind.

*I try and I try but I can find nothing to inspire me. Perfect road for music - but I have none!*



​Water and food were issues too. There was a minisupermarket about every 30 km or so for water and snacks but no place for proper food. Lots of places closed.
On a day like this I consume vast quantities of water, initially just water, but then mixed with electrolytes. Water quickly warms up and my steaming insides crave something cold. Trying to find something not loaded with sugar to drink is a fool's errand.

My lunch consisted of a prepackaged cinnamon roll, pringles and orange juice. I couldn't even find a banana.
I lived in hope, though, but every food place I passed was closed. It's the hope that kills you!

*Every now and then there's something that catches my eye*




​I was pulled at a Police checkpoint, I'm pretty sure the request to see my passport was perfunctory - they just wanted a chat. In opening my barbag I dropped a cereal bar I'd bought and one of them picked it up for me! Then it happened again when I returned my passport!
I saw two motorcycle Police, separately, with speed guns and noted this is the first time I've seen Police solo, doing "normal" Police work and not heavily armed in a long, long time!

*Even the mountains are too far away to photograph properly *



​Sometime on the second monster climb it started to rain. Not heavy, but steady. I was cooking and steaming! It stayed that way for the rest of the day.

My target for the day was Santiago, about 125km from where I started. However, I had a fallback - a Christian campground popular on iOverlander, but not reviewed in quite a while.
Exhausted, soaked and more in hope than expectation I pulled off the highway and went looking.
I found the place easy - they had a big sign for Overlanders - toot the horn or call these numbers. However, I had no horn and my wet fingers could not operate my wet phone. Thankfully, someone heard my holas and I was made most, most welcome. 

*I can find no inspiration here*



​This place has been around 54 years, being improved every year. I got to see an old photo.
Normally used by groups it was popular with individual families during Covid. I am their first Overlander in over a year! And made very welcome.

I camped under the extended roof of a toilet block, with electricity, running water, a shower and toilet.
I made some hot oatmeal and nearly fell asleep eating it!
I slept like a baby, rain falling most of the night. I had washed my liner in David so instead of dried sweat my nose feasted on hotel soap!

Once again, it appears, God is looking out for me!

*Another very tough day that ends well*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Aug 2021)

Covid Interlude, Thursday, August 26, 2021, Campamento Evangelico La Buena Esperanza to La Mata, Santiago, 39 km Total KM 4487
Min meters ??, Max Meters ??
Total Climb 99 Total Descent 183
Min Temp ? Max Temp ?? Ave Temp Hot!
(Gizmo messed up) 

Time for a rethink!

I'll make a wager now. I bet there are fewer Panamanian cycle tourists per capita than just about anywhere else in the world! Because Panamá is feckin' brutal for bike touring!

Tim Tower (CGOAB) rode México to Ushuia in stages. Tim's a smart fella - he skipped Panamá! Now I know why!

*I can't recall ever being so bored, so uninspired. There is little that is new, novel or interesting. I'm on a countdown until the next asshat in motorised traffic does something to shock me. The heat is energy sapping. 



*​I had a really good sleep that involved falling asleep to the sound of rain and waking, at one stage, so peaceful, that I had to work to remember where I was. It was that kind of place. I felt totally safe and comfortable. Being exhausted helped too!
It was a good night until 5am when my (forgotten) alarm went off! Dumbass!
I rolled over and back to sleep.

*The sign outside, especially for people like me!*



​It was almost 9 when I dragged myself out of the scratcher and almost noon when I was hitting the road. I said my goodbyes. A special place.

*Heading back to the PA. The nicest stretch of road all day*



​Back on the feckin' Pan American (how fickle am I?) I toddled across to a filling station. No shop! All I wanted was some cold water and maybe a sugar fix. I was feeling lethargic. They did have a fridge though, so I got a coke and a water. The guy in charge, all of 15 years old (a guess) was a few cents short of change so insisted I take some apples instead! One was enough for me.
While I munched I watched him dealing with people in a way that many older people would struggle to match. 
They had a bit of a hardware store, a sand and gravel section and seemed to be a place where people could work on their vehicles using the house tools.
A delivery guy's papers weren't right and the young fella was on top of it all.
A big cheery "hasta luego" when I was leaving.

An interesting personal interaction in Panamá! Things are looking up!

*The PA on the way to Santiago. It won't feature in any "best places to ride a bike" guides. Motorbikes, maybe. *



​I'd a short day planned, down to Santiago, about 30km down the road. There was a hostel there, I could explore the town.

Then it rained!

*Now this is looking promising..... But then the rain came down*



​The rain got heavier so I stopped at an abandoned Fonda (Comedores became Sodas and here are Fondas) for an hour until it lightened. Then I set off again in drizzle. Brutally humid though.
About 5km from Santiago itself the surface changed, my shoulder became intermittent and traffic was replaced by hellhounds craftily disguised as cars, trucks and buses. Buses are the most hellish of hellhounds!
I took to the footpath until it ran out. I took to muddy paths until they ran out. Then, the hellhounds were backing up so I could keep pace but it was very, very unpleasant.

*But if I look back the dullness is never far away*



​When I arrived at my turn off to go towards the centre and my hostel something rebelled in me. I didn't want to explore this town. It was loud and unfriendly. Besides, it was already getting late and I didn't want to share a dorm with strangers. And I certainly didn't want to face all this crap again in the morning. Like a toddler I was going no! No! NO! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

*I don't have enough photos to fill the ten I can use per post, so here's my old amigo in a favourite place - a German forest, August 2014! His first bike adventure!*



​Yesterday, when I had thought of Santiago, Booking had thrown up a cheap hotel on the far side of town. I checked again. Still cheap, 12km away and on the right road. I went for it.

*Grey and dull. Dull and grey. And asshats, asswipes, arslachs and assh*les! (German insults are so much better!)



*​
I still had to negotiate my way through though and negotiate is the appropriate verb. On the road. On the path. Stop dead. Walk around obstacles. Feckin' horrible.

*The far side of Santiago. 



*​On the far edge of town I spotted a bakery, stuck my head in the door and asked if they had coffee. Of course came the answer from the prettiest girl I've seen in Panamá! I nearly danced a jig! I must be old because the jig was inspired by the coffee not the pretty girl!
I parked up and went inside, grabbing a cold water and a couple of slices of cake. 
Ms Panamá was very curious. When I told her I was from Ireland and where I'd biked from her eyes lit up like brilliant shining beacons. I'm cool again!
She was all chat because she wanted me to pose in front of the shop a sort of "they even come from Ireland on bikes to here" kind of thing. I'd challenge any red blooded male to say no to this lady! Photophobia? What Photophobia?
She had lived and worked in Oregon and loved it but Trump had made life difficult and now she was home. She really wanted to go back.

*Coffee and cake has been a feature of my touring career! Strüdel, custard, coffee in Bayern, August 2014. The further we travel the more things can stay the same!*



​Now I was leaving the town behind and everything had changed. My baby smooth shoulder was gone replaced with rough tarmac. The road was now rippled concrete sheets and the heavy traffic made a terrible racket especially at each join. The rain was back too! 
So much for a relaxing, easy day. 
It would take a strong soul to ride these roads, enjoy it and want to do it again.

With relief I got myself checked in. There's a bar next door, empty, that served food until 6. I checked it out and passed, hitting a little supermarket instead.

I've been racing to get to Panamá City to arrive on Sunday but today has just confirmed my worst thoughts - I do not want to cycle into Panamá city. I need a plan B.

*Bayern, August 2014. A cheap, cheap hotel but what a view!*​






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, August 27, 2021, La Mata, Santiago to Penonomé, Santiago, 105 km Total KM 4592
Min meters 41, Max Meters 120
Total Climb 248 Total Descent 189
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 33


Losing the head...... and shoulders


I woke up at five to the sound of rain falling. Not heavy rain, by any means, but enough to slow me down. With no place to make coffee I munched some bread and peanut butter and got organised. I'd earmarked a spot outside to fire up the trangia but when push came to shove I just packed up and hit the road. At least it was dry!

*About the only thing (other than language) that points to Panamá being a Latin country is the prevalence of chickens*



​A few kms down the road I came to a little Fonda with quite a few men eating. I ordered a coffee. The food served was all fried! At payment time I proffered a $20 bill only to be asked for something smaller. I had 95 cents (for a $1 coffee). The girl called out to her boss for advice. A man at the end of the counter said he'd buy the coffee! Panamá's warming up!
I thanked him and wandered down but he was no more interested in chatting than I was in eating the deep fried meat on display!

With a bit of coffee in me I set off again.

*The rain had stopped, there were crash barriers regularly to stop, even shade but very little to spark enthusiasm*



​The noise was horrendous. Ribbed concrete (for no--one's pleasure!) can make a terrible racket. My shoulder was poor (how things are relative!) and traffic was heavy. I even had a dog chase! A silent one so he was upon me before I knew it. My first reaction was shock, my second to swing my foot at him. That was enough to discourage him.

There were views of mountains away in the distance, but too far to translate to a photo. In fact there are precious few wow moments. I can stop, usually, where I like (shoulder), there are frequent crash barriers and bus stops to sit and savour. It's just there is feck all to savour. Maybe if I liked fumes...... And loud noise.

*The road seems to run well away from the mountains. *



​It's been a long time since I've seen such ignorance on the road. Getting through Santiago yesterday I lost count of how many cars and pickups passed me only to turn right across me.
Today it was cars and trucks in the shoulder. One asswipe in particular, parked in the shoulder waited until I was in the lane overtaking him to move off nearly forcing me into the further lane.
Many times approaching an obstacle in the shoulder I'd indicate that I wanted to take the lane. Not once did anyone move over to let me out. Later, in Penonomé, traffic was selfish and bullying.

*Lovely bridge but no shoulder. Unpleasant.*



​After my "short and easy" day yesterday I had no idea where I was going to end up today. I had a cheap hotel lined up about 40km down the road, a potential Bomberos stay at 60km, a potential truck stop about 80km and a town, Penonomé, about 100km. All in Gizmo.

At the 45km mark I decided to continue on but thought I'd turn off and check out the town anyway. Agua Dulce was uninspiring, a small sterile plaza in front of the church. The brightest, best kept building was a casino. I didn't doubt my decision to carry on.

*Agua Dulce*



​The road and my shoulder deteriorated then. In fact, my shoulder was coming, going or changing all day long. At one stage it was overgrown with weeds and grass, at another, it was a narrow mud path. It wasn't pleasant but it did keep me awake!
Horns and shouts have become a feature again. I know that some of the horns are friendly, but it's impossible to differentiate them from the not so friendly ones. Yesterday someone yelled "Burro" at me - donkey. Try as I might, I can't put a positive spin on that one!






Riding in the rough shoulder I spied big chunks of broken green glass so moved roadwards (still in the shoulder) to avoid it. Just as I approached the glass a bus let out a long blast of the horn. I'd been watching it in the mirror and all was good but reacted instinctively to pull away - right through the glass.
At one stage trying to take a photo between all the traffic I had just zoomed in on a mountain, holding my hand steady and a bus gave a loud blast of the horn, scaring the crap out of me and ruining the shot.
That was enough! I lost it and rampaged up and down behind the barrier of a bridge turning the air a violent blue with my language.

*The rivers can be interesting. Some are flowing rapidly and violently, others hardly moving. *



​I was also the conductor of my own misfortune! Twice I crossed the road (no easy task) to visit a store. The first time I remembered just in time that I was on the wrong side of the road but the second time I happily set off in the wrong direction!

The one saving grace of the day, though, was the weather! I had relatively open skies all day which meant vastly less humidity. I felt pretty good cycling along, making progress. In fact, progress was the thing. I want to get off the road - to do that I have to get to the east coast - as fast as possible. I had no problem passing on Agua Dulce, the little village of Nata or the truck stop. There was lots of energy in the legs.

*At last! An interesting tree!*



​Penonomé then became the destination. Close to 100km in total but I was feeling good. Unfortunately, the bike wasn't! Accelerating to cross a bridge (those lovely separated lanes? Disappeared today!) my rear started wobbling very suggestively! Suggestive of a puncture.
I limped on hoping for a railing or bus stop but settled on shade.
I had been looking down frequently after the green glass episode but I think it was a case of "Is the tyre getting bigger at the bottom or am I looking at it too much?
I was fully prepared to find broken green glass (and curse more bus drivers) but it was a teeny, tiny wire). At times like this I'm very glad to have my Clickstand to be able to load the bike up.

Then back on the road.

*Trying to take a photo without traffic requires patience - something in short supply.*



​It took me a couple of kms to realise that I'd forgotten my Leatherman (tool) at the side of the road! Feckkkkkkkkk!
Nothing for it but to turn around and ride the wrong way on the shoulder. I'm going native!
In the meantime, a Policeman had set up a speed trap under a tree. Rather than stop and ask permission I did the Catholic thing - commit the sin and hope for forgiveness - and zoomed past him!
There's a feature on Gizmo that allows me to save my location. I've started using it more often, like when I stop to fix a puncture so finding the exact spot was easy. Finding the tool not so much. That's because it was in my saddlebag all the time! Dumbass!
I cycled past the bored cop who said nothing and continued on

A hostel with private rooms would do the trick in Penonomé.
About 100 meters from it the road was dug up and there was no way past. A long, twisty detour and I arrived from the other side - closed.
Another cheap hotel down the road, closed.
I doubled back to a modern one on the highway - sold out. As was another.
I wandered into the countryside for another. Closed.
Through the town were two more. One was closed! That made my decision easier, if my wallet lighter.

As I rode today, I figured out something I don't like about Panamá - I don't trust it!
The beautiful road can be deceptive when so many dicks travel along it.
The wide shoulder can be blocked by trees or cars, become overgrown or revert to a muddy single track. At every junction there is sand, mud and gravel to contend with and random rocks along the way.
Stores and food options can be plentiful, like today or almost absent like two days ago. The weather is fickle, has a huge impact and, to me, is totally unpredictable.
Accommodation is either closed or very expensive.
This is the first country in a long time that I have little confidence that if I signalled I needed help it would be forthcoming.
That's worth emphasising. México, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua - no go areas according to many - were places I felt comfortable, that help was available. Panamá, wealthier, less Latin and more American, not so much.

I have the sense that I'm travelling through Panamá in a kind of isolation bubble. I can see everything, Lord knows I can hear everything, but I'm feeling separated, different, an outsider. It's not what I would have expected to feel in a country that is in many respects, so similar to the US and should therefore be somewhat familiar to me.

I miss México! And Honduras!

*The Pan American in Panamá. Long, wide, dull, a shoulder most of the time. But dull.*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

Edited to correct day/date


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, Saturday, August 28, 2021, Penonomé to San Carlos, 66 km Total KM 4658
Min meters 70, Max Meters 176
Total Climb 435 Total Descent 459
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 33

Touring Wars: The cyclist strikes back!

In a galaxy country far, far away, a lone cycle tourist takes on the might of an unholy alliance between a treacherous road, malevolent machines and the results of a global pandemic. Just when the alliance seemed to have moved into position to crush the cyclist he decided to strike back!
(Since, apparently, I'm cryptic, that's a Star Wars reference!)

*Another uninspiring morning. Only the shoulder was interesting*




​There's something missing in the mornings these days - enthusiasm. Awake at 5 am it took a while to get going. With no place to make coffee I headed up to a filling station and brought one back to my room. And hatched a plan.

I am not enjoying Panamá. 

The road, the Pan American Highway, the stuff of dreams is actually a nightmare. 
The social interactions, the fuel that fires me along is markedly absent.
Not only is it expensive, the number of places closed, food, shops and accommodation is making the trip tricky and, at times, stressful. It's only a matter of time before my luck runs out.
The one thing I have is time. I depart for Colombia on September 10, two weeks from today. How ironic that it's this place that gives me the luxury of time! 

*Crossing a bridge. At least this one has an attempt at a shoulder but the overhanging trees push me into the lane. I have zero confidence that anyone will make room for me*



​So, my plan is this: Slow right down. 35km today to an RV site (that accepts tents) and has a pool! A day relaxing by the pool.
The next day, a similar distance to another camping place via a few beaches.
Then off the feckin' Pan American, no way in Hell am I going to Panamá City, instead I'll head through a rainforest where I'll treat myself to a couple of days in a decent hotel. Why? Because it's close to the Panama Canal and I am not going to rush past that! Big boats in a canal? Locks? I could spend a blissed out week (and I may do if I can find a cheaper place!)
Then a run along a busy road to turn off for the Carribbean coast. A campsite there, up a big hill, a few days of relaxing, reading and the Carribbean! 
Then the boat and a new continent! 

What kind of a touring cyclist sets a goal of 35km for the day? This one!

*The unsafe bridges are doubly frustrating because they often span interesting rivers like this one*



​With that in mind, I cleaned my chain, packed up and promptly had to risk death just to cross the bloody road! 
"Ha!", I roared at the road. "You can't take me!", and joined the madness.

Today was about the experience so I pulled in after only a few kms for a cold drink and an empanada. Then I cycled on.

It didn't take long for my shoulder to turn to crap. "Ha! Bring it on! I only have 35km to go!".
At times it was gravel. At times it was overgrown, either from beneath or the side. Errant tree branches are the real reason I wear a helmet. Sometimes it disappeared - like for bridges and any time the road passed through a village. Then there was the usual litany of traffic stopping in the shoulder.

35km I said to myself. My mantra of the day.

I stopped for a coffee at a filling station, sat in the shade and savoured a soothing smoke. 35km.
Next door was a bank so I manoeuvred over, parked up and got talking to two security guards. This is sooooooo not Costa Rica where bank guards chased me off. These guys were all chat, friendly, interested and fun. This 35km thing is working!

Back on the road the clouds were moving in and the humidity was going up. "Only 35km", I told myself. "Take your time". So I did.

The drivers were obnoxious - and not only to me. The horns are horrible. Long, long, angry blasts for the misdemeanours of other drivers, unidentified blasts at me. 
There is an ignorance, an "I don't give a damn about anyone but me" attitude on the roads here. 
But I had my 35km mantra!

*35km. 35km. 35km. 35km. 35km. The world's worst bike tourist?



*​It really doesn't take that long to cover 35km so with less than a km to go I pulled in to one of the super duper filling stations for a cold drink, a small snack and to use their wifi to catch up with the sports news at home - while it was actually relevant! What a treat! Only 35km - sure, I've all the time in the world!

I passed a very pleasant hour and decided that a swim would be good so headed down the road, turned left and ........
remembered the title of this Travelogue.

The place was closed and up for sale.*

The Touring Gods peed all over my 35km plan!

*The rivers, large and small were about the only positively interesting things today*



​What could I do, but laugh? So laugh I did. Then I hit the road again.
Another 35km! I did it once, I could do it again, right?
But two things were different. First of all the road was crumpled - what had been gentle rolling hills became spikes that were anything but gentle and I was acutely aware that part of my plan was to actually pop down to one or two beaches and savour some more time with the Pacific before I leave it for quite a while. A Sunday, meandering. What could be better?
I could feel the Unholy Alliance starting to win. Which meant I was losing. 
Not today. Not today.

*The Unholy Alliance getting the upper hand. 
Perhaps I'm looking with rose tinted glasses but if this was Mexico I'd tackle it with more confidence, if Honduras someone would probably offer a lift and if Nicaragua there would have been National Shame at the state of the road! Guatemala? I don't think I saw a road so flat?*




This was going through my head as I rode so when I came to San Carlos, about 25km along the way I put my foot down, literally. I pulled off the road, stopped at a shop, bought a cold drink and took out the phone. Sometimes Booking has a last minute price and I was lucky. There was one place in my price range. I did a loop to check out one possible camping place - already noisy at 3pm and beside a party bar (no thanks on a Saturday night!) and booked the room.

It is truly amazing the power in a modern mobile phone. It didn't just get me a room - it was a portal into a different world.

I have a little room on ground level with a patio out front for cooking!
I walked to the beach then seeing masts in the distance headed for them.
I walked in the Pacific - it's warm here! - visited a marina and looked at boats.

*The Pacific! It is amazing the effect the sea (or any reasonable body of water) has on me. The immensity. The consistency. The sounds. The mystery. *



​It's been ages since I looked at boats! There's an area where boats are stored on dry land. Boats from the US, Canada, one from Poole, a Dutch one from Delft and one from Limerick! I'd love to know the story of how a sailboat made its way from the mouth of the Shannon to San Carlos in Panamá!
Then the marina proper, with small boats toting huge engines, yachts and catamarans ready for world trips! 
As much as I can appreciate the modern boats my heart really belongs to the old, the battered. The boats that just do without being showy.
In this marina there was only one - an old, boxy catamaran, tiny in comparison to its neighbour but defiant. 

*The Marina. Way, way off in the distance is the skyline of Panamá City but all I started seeing was Colombia. Walking around here it started sinking in just what I was about to do and where I was off to next*



​For days I've been trying to fire up some enthusiasm by thinking about my upcoming boat trip. I was doing it all wrong! All I had to do was visit a marina! 

I took a walk past a fancy bar/restaurant ("food, drinks and ocean parties" - Yuck!) to sit on some rocks above the ocean. I forget the power and the depth of sound when a wave hits a rock. 

I got to see some fish! One was a big, colourful spectacular looking guy. I've always seen exotic, colourful fish on the tv - now there's one swimming around below where I'm standing!

I walked back, my toes turning black from all the volcanic sand and couldn't believe that this was the same day as earlier. 
I had the wind in my ears, the sound of waves breaking, a little girl crying with salt water in her eyes, her mother soothing her, a little boy yelling at the waves as they washed up and eroded his castle, a dog yapping when my wandering entered his territory. 
No horns. No traffic. Bliss.

*Walking the beach. Local fishing boats, expressive sky, people and the occasional yappy dog*



​I hit the supermarket, bought some fuel and food and had a lovely, relaxing meal outside my room.

If I stick to my plan tomorrow is only a 10 km day!

• There appears to be a glitch in iOverlander. It gives a "last check in date" which for a lot of places lately is August 13, 2021. In actual fact, the last visits/reviews could be several years ago. I'm aware of it, have reported it and am careful but this place also showed up on Google Maps and Osmand. It seemed a good bet.

*Looking at Panamá City....... Dreaming of Colombia*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, Sunday, August 29, 2021, San Carlos to Paraíso, 89 km Total KM 4747
Min meters -16, Max Meters 174
Total Climb 913 Total Descent 781
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Ditching the Mantra

There's a wonderful luxury to throwing open the door of my room and setting up the Trangia on the stone table right outside and brewing up my morning coffee. Other than my clumsy self, the fact that it is noiseless is a big plus in these situations. The young fella who checked me in yesterday passed me, a surfboard under his arm. Half an hour later he was back and impressed with my Trangia which had now disappeared into a pannier.

Then I hit the road.

*Early morning, light traffic but a majority of heavy trucks. Couldn't drum up any enthusiasm. *



​Habit is a funny thing. Because of the easy access to my room last night I'd wheeled the bike in, leaving the handlebar bag on - normally it's the first thing off the bike. 
On leaving this morning I didn't follow my usual ritual of putting it back on so the front pocket was left open.
That wasn't a problem until I hit my first bridge and its inevitable bump and my knife went flying. I stopped, laid the bike down and returned to it just in time to see a car drive right over it shattering the plastic cover into pieces and redistributing everything in a hundred different directions. I guess I'll need another knife!

I'd been thinking last night about where to go today. Was I really going to get back on the 35km plan (which was a little over 10km today) or was I going to push on? It was a Sunday, after all, the day of rest. A quieter road might be better. Mind you, I could hear trucks roaring along the road as the sun came up. Maybe it wouldn't be quiet. Only one way to find out.....

The road was quieter, at least for a while. Unfortunately, the proportion of ********* drivers (insert your own expletive here - I used all mine up today and invented some new ones!) was higher than anything I've encountered in a long, long time.
There was the guy who pulled in right in front of me, blocking the shoulder when the road was busy to buy fruit. No problem, I waited. Then he pulled off, staying in the shoulder and stopped at a second fruit seller, blocking me again. He must have known I was there, could have waved me past between sellers but just couldn't be bothered.
I lost count of the number of drivers who pulled in in front of me to have a pee. 
Then there was the car of idiots who blasted the horn, slowed down beside me, roared at me and tried to grab me. 
Many, many times I needed to take the lane for a shoulderless bridge, an overgrown shoulder or just no shoulder at all and not one fecker would let me out. 

*Meh. Meh. Meh. And more Meh. I chastised myself for my attitude but I couldn't change it. 



*​At one stage I really began to wonder if I had become invisible - although the horns countered that notion. Lots of horn blasts that I just couldn't interpret. Too long to be a friendly toot, too close to be a useful warning. Eventually it dawned on me that the most appropriate translation was something like "I see you, I'm coming through and you'd better stay the hell out of my way".

Rolling past my camping option, in a commercial area along the road - it was actually a swimming place - I decided to keep going. The sea was a good bit away, the traffic noise would be loud and I wouldn't be comfortable leaving my gear. Hanging out all day with a bunch of Panamanians wasn't exactly high on my to-do list.

So, by default I had a plan, of sorts. 

*Hmmmmm. Not so bad. Except for the shoulder!*



​I was going to cross the Panamá Canal! A little later there's a hotel that is not my usual standard and I'm going to treat myself. The fact is, Panamá (like Costa Rica) is very expensive. By skipping the Capital I'm saving myself money - or at least that's what I tell myself! Besides, it's the only accommodation in the area.
It'll make the day long with a fair whack of climbing. But today won't be about the distance, it'll be about the time. Big, big roads, heavy traffic. Anything could happen. The trick isn't to grind out the miles, the key is to pace myself, give myself lots of time and not to rush.

With a destination I rolled on with purpose. But it was horrible.
The shoulder was excellent except for when it wasn't. And there was a lot of it that wasn't. I think I did more off-road/gravel riding today than ever before! On a feckin' highway!!
At the bottom of each rolling hill was a shoulderless bridge, usually a crappy surface and loads of gravel. It's soul destroying to pull to a stop before the bottom and face into a climb starting with no momentum. There were a lot of bridges.
I cycled down the Crystal Hill. Sounds exciting, no? In fact it was the shoulder covered in broken glass for a good half km or more. There was so much there was no avoiding it.
The traffic noise was thunderous - and that's without the horns. Throw them into the mix and it all becomes a bit much.
The noise wasn't helped by the large number of motorbikes racing through the traffic their engines screaming.
I opted to stop regularly and give myself a break.
Even that didn't work out well - it seemed that most of the shops, filling stations and restaurants were on the other side of the road! 
I even spotted what could well have been a touring cyclist going the other way. Two white Ortliebs on the front, a long saddle bag strapped on. I waved but I'm thinking he was Panamanian because I appeared to be invisible. A lot of adjectives can be used to describe me on the bike but discreet, camoflagued or subtle are not any of them! White Ortliebs! I don't think I've ever seen any in the wild before!

*The ratio of interesting views to terrible travel was very, very low.*



​I did manage a cold drink at one filling station and topped up my tyres. I stopped a little later to deflate the front one again as the shoulder was so bumpy!

Lunch was a disappointing chicken and chips. 

Then I was on big, big roads about 30km from the Capital and nowhere to stop.

I'd prepared myself in advance. I had a "car route" - staying on the highway, a "bike route" that took me off for a while but always put me back on and a special "Alt" route that was specifically designed to avoid a nasty looking spaghetti knot junction. With sweaty fingers and a sweaty phone I don't want to be messing around on the rodside. Gizmo handles sweaty fingers! (GPS unit? Go for one with buttons - not a touchscreen!)

One senseless 200 meter climb was brutal. 5-8% gradient, a shoulder full of holes and gravel or just overgrown - with traffic blasting right beside me. For the sake of safety and my sanity I pushed up. The shoulder on the other side was just as bad so the descent was horrible.

*Getting busy. Less pleasant. Someone should invent some device for neutralising car horns - I'd be first in the queue - so long as I don't need to cycle in Panamá to get it!*



​A few kms before the "Spaghetti knot" and I was out of water. I was feeling the heat and was a little lightheaded. Trust me - this is not the road to be lightheaded on.
I made the turn and promptly pulled into a McDonalds. A big Coke Zero and a sundae helped to lower my temperature. Two liters of water at the next shop was half gone before I cycled off.

When I rejoined the highway I was no longer on the road to Panamá City and it was a bit quieter. 
It was about then that it started to dawn on me just what I was going to do next - I was going to cycle over the Panama Canal!

*A bit of perspective. These blue hearts are common on the roads here. Each one signifies a death on the road. Often there is a roadside memorial, like in other countries, but here they tend to be hidden in the overgrowth. The most in one spot was 12-15, usually they are single, or perhaps double. 
I thought it was a good idea, a clear way to remind drivers of a previous fatality. It appears I'm alone in Panamá thinking this. I could detect no change in attitude or driving style.*



​I'm pretty sure some folk reading this will wonder at my mental/intelligence levels. How can it be a surprise to cross the Panamá Canal? It bisects Panamá for crying out loud! It has to be crossed!
Let me try to explain.....
To me there are two kinds of knowing.
One is a cold, emotionless knowledge. 
A bit like knowing that Texas is big.
The other is knowledge combined with experience so that I know something but I can also feel it. 
If I close my eyes I can feel those long, wide Texas roads, scrubland stretching off to the edge of the planet or the sheer beauty of a sunset. I can feel the size of a forest that takes me a couple of days to cycle past. 
One knowledge is numerical, physical, emotionless, the other is the polar opposite. 
Ask me how big the Sam Houston Forest is in Texas and I've no idea. Ask me what it's like to cycle through and I'll bore the ear off you about friendly rangers, midnight walks under the silvery moon, dawn coffees as the sun rises and epic sunsets as the sun drifts down into a lake.
So when I say that it started to dawn on me what landmark I was going to cross what I'm saying is that I'm starting to feel, to "know" with more than just my head.

For someone who can spend hours looking at boats, at barges, rivers and canals are special places. To be able to see ships in a canal? Amazing!
To be doing it at the bottom (almost!) of Central America, having cycled there? Beyond amazing!
I felt a big grin starting to form, my face muscles protesting - they're not used to grinning these days.

It's another of those reality meets a vague concept moment and it was magical!

*My very first glimpse of the canal. *



​I wasn't expecting this to be the kind of canal crossing I enjoy where I can stop. And watch. And see. And feel. Yes, feel! The height, the wind, the swaying bridge as trucks roll past - all part of the experience.
But there was a shoulder so I stopped. Maybe not the smartest thing I'll ever do but I wasn't going to rush through this.

It's not possible to cycle along the canal (I'd checked). Cycling into Panamá City on any day except Sunday is impossible. You need to get a lift over the bridge. Even Sunday is pretty bad. Tomorrow I'm taking a day to sit and watch the ships. But now? My first sight of this famous canal? 
Damn right I'm doing it my way.

*Puente Centenario. 
It might not look too exciting and it certainly wasn't the nicest place in the world to stop...... But I was riding my bike across the Panama Canal. The Panama Feckin' Canal!! *



​In truth, there's not a lot to see. The canal is a muddy brown, the ships that I could see were a good ways away with the city skyline behind them.
But I was in Panamá. At the canal.

A lot of my touring has been along rivers or canals. The Danube. The Rhine. All over NL. Belgium. Canals everywhere! Working canals. I even broke off the Camino route in Spain one day to follow a canal for a while. For some of those adventures this Big Big Trip was an idea, a dream. Today it was reality.
(As well as enjoying travelling by water, following a canal or river is easy navigation for someone as challenged in that department as me!)

It was a great moment! 

*I don't think the Panamanian Tourist Board will use this in their promotional literature but me? I love it!*



​The hotel wasn't that far away down a small road but it had a sweeping drive up to it with grades touching 20%.
They let me take the bike up to the room!
I showered and went down for a swim in the outdoor pool. In the dark I had it all to myself with a lightning storm off in the distance.

Panamá hasn't redeemed itself but there's a little bit of today that I'll carry with me always.
And tomorrow? Tomorrow a little boy is going to look at some big ships!

*Señor Jackass blocking me at the fruit sellers. The picture doesn't convey the number of horn blasts from upcoming traffic that I took as a warning to not even try and take the lane.*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude August 30 / 31, 2021

The Panama Canal

What's the title of this Travelogue again?
On my day for boat watching I got up to pouring rain! 
Well, I am in a rainforest! I can see lots of trees so some rain shouldn't be a surprise!

All I wanted was to explore the Panama Canal!

It was tough to make the most of my enforced inside stay what with a huge breakfast buffet and limitless coffee but I tried, I really tried! (Irony, Willie, lots and lots of irony).

*Gloomy and wet. Absolutely not a reflection of my mood!*



​A man approached me as I ate my breakfast asking if I was the guy on the bike. I'm (nearly) famous!
As it turned out he's French Canadian, here with his wife, two kids and a beautiful Shepherd called Appi who was apprehensive and growly at first but soon my best friend. (Yes, I'm aware of the fact that I can't recall any human names!)
In the way of these things himself and his wife cycled through Panamá years ago - apparently not much has changed - they weren't too impressed either!

Then the rain stopped! Thunderbirds were go!!!!

Seeing an opportunity for a decent bike photo with a backdrop of trees I perched Roccado on a kerb, stepped back and watched with horror as he toppled over and down.
I lunged and grabbed the front wheel.
The bike had fallen onto the sloped roof of a shed about a meter below the kerb and had been sliding down to another fall of maybe 4 meters until I grabbed the wheel.
Gingerly I drew him back and got him back onto terra firma. Having left the handlebarbag open a load of my stuff now sat on the roof! A borrowed brush and all was restored. 
I'd hate to think of the damage that could have been done!

*Relocated Roccado Shot. The yellow kerb is what he was leaning on when he toppled over. Imagine the shame of surviving this far and coming a cropper in the fanciest place I've stayed?*



​Now ready to depart, I did. But all was not good. My rear gears were jammed. Aha! Indiana Jones-like I casually checked my shifter for the errant hairband but this time there was no elastic impediment. Uh oh!
I upended the bike and had a good inspection, fearing damage to the derailleur, specifically the spring but I could see nothing wrong.
The cable looks rough - running down the crossbar of the bike (top tube) it has become a bit rusty (strangely only this one - not the front derailleur nor the back brakes).
Tugging on the cable made the derailleur move as normal. Even changing gears while upended worked.
Back on two wheels the lever still refused to move.
I removed the cap, had a poke around and it started to move better. 
I cycled again - success!

By rights I should replace the cable but I'm about to embark on a sea crossing and plan on a full service in Cartagena afterwards. With a bit of luck the cable will get me to the coast.

At last, after the rain, the huuuuge breakfast, the almost calamity and the lesson afterwards I was ready to see the Panama Canal in all its glory!!

Ha! Dumbass!

There's precious little to see! 

*After meandering through a load of buildings and going off road, this was the closest I got to the canal. Not exactly inspiring! *



​Even though the road often runs right beside it there is hardly any view. Trees, or more often buildings, block the view, fences restrict access and, if moving, I always have to be aware of traffic.

Disappointed, but optimistic, I headed for the Miraflores locks where there is a (overpriced) museum but at least, or so I reckoned, a good view.

It being a Monday and this being the Big, Big Trip it was closed! Not just the museum but the whole feckin' complex it was in! A very pleasant, but firm security guard pulled me and explained.

*Even the trees in Panamá seem to lack something.....*



​I had been heading in the direction of the city and didn't want to go much further but toddled into "Knowledge City", a very strange, bizarre place.
I'm only guessing but I reckon it's been developed from the time of the canal digging. Very square, incredibly neat and ordered, not a trace of litter (very unusual) and without any appreciable soul at all. I felt quite uncomfortable. A bit like wandering into "The Truman Show".
All commercial activity, shops, cafés, restaurants were located in one low block. I hit a mini supermarket for water went to get a bite to eat but baulked at the prices so headed back the way I came. 

I was disappointed until ahead and above me I spied a ship! How often do we see a ship above us?

*National Geographic's shot of the year? I think not! But the tingle of excitement that tickled me when I saw it was enough! I'm sure people thought I was nuts but I stayed on the kerb, at a busy junction watching.*



​And then another! 

The footpath at a busy junction is probably not the best vantage point, but it was the only one open to me so I stayed and watched.

The thing with big ships on a canal is that it's not exactly fast entertainment! With vans and trucks regularly obscuring my view, not to mention buildings I squeezed as much out as I could and headed off.

I stopped at the San Miguel Lock just down the road having not paid too much attention on my way in.
Now, though, there was a ship in the lock slowly dropping down and another incoming!

*Years ago in Hamburg I was captivated by the sight of huge ships in the Elbe. Something about a big ship in something other than the sea......*
_*The great rivers (and canals) of Europe are great for watching huge barges laden with all kinds of cargoes. 
For me, this is Christmas come early!*_
*



*​This was more like it!!

A convenient chili dog van meant I got to try one. I asked for the spiciest chili and it was bland! Oh México - how you spoiled me!

*Yep! That's a choo choo train pulling the ship along! *



​Then I set off again into heavy traffic. It wasn't pleasant. I was planning to cross the bridge (and get a view from the opposite side that I crossed) and toddle off down a side road that I had seen from the bridge.

There was heavy truck traffic in both directions which had me pulling off the narrow, two lane road regularly. I started to doubt my bridge plan. Approaching the slip road to put me onto the bridge, a guy in a car parked across the road started shouting at me. Keeping an eye on traffic, across two lanes of busy traffic I couldn't make out a word but smiled and waved, neither being returned. Just more shouting.

*Unpleasant. Quite a few trucks too, making it safer to just get the hell off the road.*



​The next thing I know there's more shouting, this time beside me - the same car with two guys in it. 
I still can't tell what he's saying but there's nothing particularly friendly about his tone. They have slowed to my pace and are blocking traffic behind me - resulting in a lot of angry horns.

All I can say is that I can't understand what he is saying.

At that the car pulls ahead then pulls in front of me, the bonnet blocking my bit of a shoulder, the boot blocking the road.
This really freaked me out so I weaved around the back and took off up the slip road for the bridge. The car followed me. Once it was committed I stopped and they had no way back.

Given the volume of traffic on the road I think it highly unlikely that I was about to be robbed.
The bike was almost empty - just my barbag, one pannier and the flag. 
I couldn't make head nor tail of what he was saying but it was a constant stream of vocabulary not the usual variations of hello, where are you from. If there were questions being asked there was no time for giving answers.

In any case, I decided not to continue across the bridge. There was a lot of traffic and the two boys could be pulled in on the shoulder after the bridge. Instead, I got back on the road and cycled past the hotel. Maybe I'd see a bit of the canal down this way.

A decent road and a canopy of trees made for a pleasant environment but the traffic in packs didn't.

Reaching a junction I turned off to head for the canal again but now the road was concrete slabs with steps between each one, nasty deep, sticky mud at the edge and traffic that would have no qualms about running me into it. I also passed a couple of bus stops to unsettling stares. 

*The side of the road was treacherous. Traffic in packs drove me right to the edge. If I went off the edge the wheel would sink (and stop) in a gloopy, mucky mud. I didn't know exactly where I was heading so after one close pass too many I turned around.*



​I turned around and headed back to the hotel.

A swim was what the doctor ordered.

Having learned my lesson, I had been in touch with a camping place about 25km from where my boat departs.
Unfortunately (or fortunately!) they have no internet and I had one last job to organise online - my health insurance.

I stayed an extra day. A very windy and wet day as it turned out.
Since I would be at sea the day my old policy expired I needed the new one organised before I left.

Health insurance for long distance/ long term travel can be tricky, infinitely more so when homeless, already on the road and looking to extend an existing policy or get a new one.
I had done research before I left CDMX, had continued probing on the road but hadn't pulled the trigger. 

After the trip to Texas and now this it's a wonder my credit card hasn't melted!

*Better than the road but nowhere near as exciting as the canal!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, Wednesday, September 01, 2021, Paraíso to Guanche, 78 km Total KM 4825
Min meters 54, Max Meters 196
Total Climb 836 Total Descent 887
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 31

Running out of road in Panamá

Here's the thing about staying in a place with "Rainforest" in the name..... You have to expect rain!

I was up just after 5am to get organised. Downstairs for breakfast I saw the rain. Oh well, it just meant I could give the breakfast buffet a good hammering without feeling under pressure for time.

By the time the assault was over I was as full as the proverbial tick and the sky had cleared.

I set off. No more Pan American for me for a while!

*Other than the traffic in bi-directional packs it was a very pretty road. When quiet, like this, it was bliss. Hot, yes, humid, certainly, but worth the effort.*



​The road was a narrow two laner with slippy, mossy edges and traffic moving in packs. I'd actually be passing by (or through) a National Park and to be fair I was quickly swamped and entombed by trees. It was probably the nicest cycling in Panamá so far - except for the traffic. 

As a pack of about eight cars were passing me it started to drizzle but only for a moment. A very fine drizzle. Confused by the clear sky above the trees it took a few moments and some stinging eyes to realise that I'd been done by someone's window washer fluid. 

Later, with a bus bearing down on me I pulled off the road to let him past. As it trundled past the first passenger had a raised middle finger and moved around as the bus moved away to keep the finger between himself and myself. 

*Later, on the main road the scenery was a bit further away*



​With such attitudes on display when I had a choice of a toll road or a "normal" road I took the "normal". I've no idea if I'm allowed on the Toll road and I didn't fancy discovering the attitude of other traffic on it.

This was the old road between the city and the port city of Colón. Going through commercial areas the shoulder was brutal, in rural areas it was variable and someone seemed to have done an effective job of stealing most of the manhole covers!

*Panamá - not a country for being distracted!*



​It wasn't pleasant but nor was it as bad as the Pan American. 

A roadie slowly caught up with me - very slowly - and then sped up and zoomed right past without a word or any recognition at all. Panamá in a nutshell - I'm invisible.

I stopped a couple of times for a cold drink and on arriving at Sabanitas I turned off with relief and some trepidation. Relief to be off the road to Colón, trepidation because iOverlander has an account of a nasty attack on a solo touring cyclist on this road.

A smaller road than before it wound its way through the less salubrious parts of town. Certainly not areas I'd like to be after dark. I passed several large piles of domestic rubbish just dumped (and stinking) on the side of the road with houses all around.

*Off the main road, past the dodgier areas of town, a quieter road ....... And over the brow of a hill ......... The Carribbean!*



​Eventually I left civilisation behind and most of the traffic. I passed the occasional house, was shouted at, whistled at or ignored. Few returned my greeting and not a one smiled. I can't decipher the Spanish being hurled at me but body language and tone doesn't inspire a lot of confidence.

I was now close to the Carribbean and having risen over a hill and getting my first glimpse I turned off at a village to see this wonderful sight close up. A small road that ran along parallel to the shore was filled with small houses, not all terribly attractive. Apart from a glimpse between buildings there was nothing to see so I rejoined the road.

There were a few false alarms until I found a decent spot to take in the view and the moment. Another coast to coast!
And the Carribbean! 
Although this one can hardly count.

*A Latin Coast to Coast! *



​I passed a few rivers flowing to the sea, some very inviting for a bit of exploration. I stopped on one bridge for a rest, a drink and to appreciate where I was.

*Panamá was really starting to turn on the style*



​I'd had contact with the campground by email and had been advised to call when I arrived so that they could give me a lift up the hill.

Such piffle, I thought. Until I saw the bloody hill!

*Palm trees, the Carribbean, a quiet road (except when it wasn't)....... Panamá really has a bit of a split personality*



​Thankfully, the boss was working on the gate so I cheerfully and shamelessly threw my panniers in his pick up and set off up on Roccado. 

That was a dumb move! Even unloaded the hill was brutal!

*There were a lot of rivers entering the sea, some deep, murky and relatively still, others shallow and fast flowing.*



​Anyway, I've arrived, have a rough spot to camp on - but the view!
There's a couple of friendly dogs, a cat and very pleasant people running the place.
If I look out to sea I can see the queue of ships waiting to enter the canal. By day they are small and distant, by night a line of colour in the dark.
This is going to be home for a week or so until the boat is ready.






Panamá is almost at an end. 
It will not be missed.

*For the navigationally challenged (me) Panamá really messes with my head. I would have thought the country generally runs north to south but look at a map - it doesn't! Instinctively, I would have thought I was facing east - until the sun went down!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Sep 2021)

Pan American Perils

*There was no trusting the shoulder*






*Old concrete dumped and hardened on the shoulder. Often, tarmac had been laid directly on a layer of concrete. *







*Every road, path, layby, business or gate to a field meant debris and variable surfaces*






*These little yellow fruits often filled the shoulder. They could be as hard as marbles and if there was enough of them, it was, I imagine, like trying to ride on marbles.*







*There were a lot of bus stops. Each one forced me onto the road*







*Yep! That's a shoulder!*






*Never a dull moment! In the dry shade can hide some of the cracks but in the rain? It's pot luck!*







*Great fun! The tarmac above the concrete surface has failed. *






*The overgrowth wasn't really the problem, it was the unwillingness of traffic to accommodate a cyclist temporarily taking the lane. The adventures in these photos would have been far more banal had I had some faith that I was seen as a part of the traffic. I wasn't.*







*For situations like this just moving to the left (and staying in the shoulder) would trigger long horn blasts*








Chat? Yes Please!​https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, September 02 - September 09, 2021

Rest days in Panamá


This won't be long!

I took a break. From everything!

My campsite was basic. I occasionally picked up a cellular signal but it never worked when I wanted to do anything online.

*I set up well away from the few cabins and toilet block. Free ranging cattle and a couple of horses were my companions*



​I used my water filter on the mountain water. 

I read. A lot.

*My reading spot*



​I tried to let Panamá wash out of my system but I took a few rides and each time the traffic reminded me that I was still in Panamá.

*The Paradox of Panamá: standing close to the edge of the road to take this shot resulted in loud horn blasts (on a relatively lightly trafficked road). How different from CDMX where traffic used to wait for me!*



​I swam in the Carribbean. A whole lot less current than the Pacific, it was warm, safe, and comforting. Unbelievably clear it was full of life.

*Beautiful! Until a car, or especially a bus came along!*



​I saw more crabs and variety of crabs than all of the other wildlife in Panamá thus far.

*My swimming spot! *




​I battled creepy crawlies, especially ants, yet every night marvelled at fireflies zooming around. On more than one night one entertained me in the dark by dancing around on my inner tent.

*My grá for Palm trees has survived!*



​Rain was an ever present risk - never too heavy but still lots of rain. It was amazing to sit and listen to the rain moving in. A gentle rustling of the trees from the wind then something a little different. A heavier rustling. A soft "whoosh" sound. And then the raindrops would fall. I got wet so as not to disturb the process.






Lightning at night without thunder was spectacular when the sky was clear. 

Stars were blazing.

Every night as darkness fell the queue for the Panama Canal emerged out of the darkness. Big, small and sometimes huge ships lined up. Long and short. All lit up in white and orange. Like a distant highway. 

The husband of the couple who ran the place was Colombian and had no problem talking up his country! And its food! Since Guatemala the variety and quality of the food has been dropping and since Costa Rica rising exponentially in price. Cheap, tasty food will be most welcome.

*Sometimes the power of the sun is blinding and sucks all the colour away. Unedited picture.*



​It had been my intention to poke around on CGOAB about Colombia but without internet that didn't happen. That's no biggie. It's a big, big place and I'll have 90 days to wander around. No border for 90 days! The luxury! 

That fact, coupled with the talk of food had me humming a song......


View: https://youtu.be/IPg2IK6OLGM


Colombia. My Promised Land?

*The sun sets on Panamá and Central America (look closely for the Canal queue!)*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, Friday, September 10 2021, Guanche to Puerto Lindo, 28 km Total KM 4853
Min meters 20, Max Meters 75
Total Climb 214 Total Descent 273
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 33

Bikin' to the Boat!

There was one concern I had about today - packing everything away dry. I'd be allowed one bag on the boat, everything else into the hold. Anything that wasn't dry wasn't going to get dry for a while.

The Touring Gods were kind, though. A dry morning, sunshine and a bit of a breeze and just about everything got packed away dry.

*Just before departure. Everything dry and packed up as the sky turns ominous. As it turned out the foul weather stayed well offshore*



​I accepted the offer of a lift down the hill for my gear (yes! It was that steep!), loaded up and set off on the last few kms of Central America. 

I had changed out my usual packing system and was carrying some extra stuff for the bike, chiefly a big roll of plastic for wrapping the bike. As a result the bike was a tad unbalanced and since I hadn't ridden loaded for 10 days it felt strange at first.

*It does look very pleasant, doesn't it?



*​Yesterday I had received an email to say the meeting place had changed, then later it changed again. It took about 12 hours for my reply to the first to go through, the second was still queued. 

Arriving into Portobelo I pulled in for a snack and cold drink. Free wifi showed no more changes. I could have stayed here in more comfort (and at much greater expense) but I don't think I missed too much.
*Old fortifications at Portobelo*



​I set off again on an inland loop to bring me to Puerto Lindo. Away from the sea there were a lot of hills. Short, steep buggers. Under a very hot sun. 






This was some of the nicest cycling in Panamá simply because there was so little traffic. The scenery was interesting too, although it was very hot. 






Distracted, I hit a pothole too fast and dislodged a rear pannier. I pulled in, reattached and set off again. It was only later that I noticed that a screw had ripped right through the material. This is the pannier with the original fastenings so a repair is necessary and I'll replace the Ortlieb fittings as I did with the other. 

*Lots of rivers meandering into the sea



*​I scouted Puerto Lindo to find no open store then headed to the "public dock" as instructed. Except there are two public docks in the town. No-one at either. 

*From the public dock in Puerto Lindo. I tried not to take the sunken boats as an omen!*



​I chatted to some Germans at a dive school and settled down to wait. It was 12:30 and the rendezvous was at 14:00. 

14:00 came and went with no sign of anyone. I cycled between the two docks (over a bloody big hill) to be sure.

I was annoyed, not worried. Departure wasn't until tonight, the boat was at the marina a few kms out of town as far as I knew and since I had paid nothing, not even a deposit, I figured they wouldn't leave without me.

*A real live sloth! Now I know where they get their name from! Unbelievably slow! I passed a very interesting time watching him cross the road (traffic waited), then climb a road sign to pull himself up into a bamboo tree. Scary claws at the end of each limb! *



​The first change of meeting place had been to a restaurant. I headed there anyways and spoke to a lady. She started to make some calls when a minivan pulled up and people started to pour out - my travelling companions, unaware that plans had changed. 

*There are worse places to wait......



*​To cut a long story short we loaded all our gear into a boat and headed out to the big boat. I was still a bit peeved having hoped to have had a bit of time to prep the bike. In any case, I got to wrap him up on the big boat and he was placed in the hold. 

Then it was off to the marina itself to pass a few hours, eat, drink, get to know each other and have immigration stamp us out.

About 8pm we returned to the boat and prepared to sail overnight.

Bye Bye Central America. 






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (19 Sep 2021)

Covid Interlude, September 10 - September 15, 2021

Crossing to Colombia

I hadn't really thought much about this part of the Big Big Trip other than that I wanted to do it. I mean, it's a boat! What's not to like?

It is not possible to travel overland to Colombia. Well, technically, it is possible, but it's not easy, comfortable nor safe and if you do arrive alive, the Colombians won't accept you! 
So, getting to Colombia was always going to involve a boat or a plane. I prefer boats.
Note for anyone considering similar: Unless you *really* want to visit Panamá and *really* want to sail to Colombia I'd seriously recommend flying from Costa Rica. In actual fact, I might suggest flying from Nicaragua and doing Costa Rica by car/bus. 

Since it was a long, long way away when I set off I had made no contact with anyone until I was contemplating leaving CDMX so I dug into my notes and started an email correspondence. That brought me to Puerto Lindo.

I hadn't looked at a website or read a review, I just knew that these guys took bikes. I had no idea of an itinerary other than I'd land in Cartagena and that was in Colombia. I didn't really need to know anything else, did I?

*An island to explore, reefs to investigate, warm, crystal clear water. It's a tough life!*



​In truth no. A couple of weeks before departure a couple of emails were sent out with information about buses from Panama City, rendezvous times etc. Only then did it occur to me to ask about accommodation! I'd be sharing a cabin. 

There were ten passengers - three couples (one on honeymoon), three young German friends and yours truly. Nationalities were German, Swiss, Swedish and English. Three women, seven lads. I was by far and away the oldest! 
The crew consisted of the Captain, a mate and a cook. So thirteen people in total.

*A close up of the water. It really was very clear. A fair whack of rubbish washes up on the islands but the water is vital and full of life*



​I thought I was travelling "heavy" until I saw the amount of booze being brought on board by everyone else. I had nothing! 

We set sail a little after 8pm on the tenth with the plan of being anchored in the San Blas archipelago the following morning. A couple of days exploring San Blas islands and then a 36 hour (minimum) crossing to Cartagena.

That first night was not pleasant. I was the only passenger not to have or take seasickness pills and the second one to throw up.
I hate throwing up. 
It was a real surprise to me. I've had some pretty hairy experiences on ferries and never a problem. I'd confidently ignored the suggestion to invest in seasickness pills. Ha! Dumbass!

*As wonderful as the reefs are for exploring there is real danger amongst the beauty*



​When the time came to go to bed I had a raised bunk in a cabin with another couple - they had a double bed. 
We had a ceiling hatch that was to stay closed (rain) and a small window at the side (above my legs). The first night the bedroom door was closed - we learned after that to leave it open. The room was incredibly stuffy.
To say my bunk was claustrophobic would be an understatement. I genuinely felt like I was in a coffin. 
On the open side a wall extended from the back of my head as far as my elbow.
The ceiling was about six inches above my head.
The closed side contained a small window that only seemed to emphasise the lack of space that I had. 
The space between both sides was just wider than my shoulders.
The open side narrowed at my knees making sleeping from the other end impossible. 
Finally, there was no space to store anything so my pannier was at the end of the bunk. I was a tight fit.
It's not in my gift to describe just how uncomfortable I was. 
Lying on my back it seemed that the ceiling was coming down on me, on my side facing the window was a similar enclosed feeling. The best was on my side, facing down and out. 
Even later, when I discovered a small fan on the wall behind my head it did little to improve the situation and clobbered me if I moved without thinking!
I slept not a wink.

However, at dawn I was up and out, sitting on the front in fresh air watching a couple of dolphins frolicking in the water.

*Dawn. Probably my favourite part of the day*



​There's a lot to be said for jumping into the sea to start the day! Especially when it's the Carribbean! The water was warm and incredibly clear.

Anchored near an island we could don snorkelling gear and explore. Or visit the island and walk around. 
Such was our schedule for the first three days - after breakfast we'd move to another island and explore land and sea in the afternoon. 

The food was excellent. Breakfast changed each day from pancakes to sausages to eggs always with lots of fruit and limited coffee. I missed my coffee!
Lunch varied each day too as did dinner, the highlight being fresh lobster and crab. 

My second night in the coffin was no better than the first but on the third night I skipped a (drunken) bonfire on the beach of an island and bedded down on the deck. No-one said anything so I slept under the stars thanking the Sailing Gods for no rain!

*Small islands. And lots of them!*



​I really enjoyed the snorkelling after the first day. The locations improved and there was much to see, plus I had figured out which gear was not so good. 
Lots of reefs with a never-ending array of coral and plants in a kaleidoscope of colours, unbelievable amounts of fish, including a shark, a ginormous crab and several rays which kept me on my toes. 
The water could be relatively shallow but the ground could fall steeply away to unknown depths, becoming blue and more blue until it faded to a blue-black.
That was probably my favourite thing to do - swim from the shallows bathed in daylight and full of colour and shapes to the deep, mysterious places.

Walking the islands was a treat, too. All bar one were inhabited, none were very big but it was easy to believe in places that not much has changed since people first arrived. (Interestingly, I refused to go to the most developed island with a bar, volleyball etc. - I didn't want to see the "development". I snorkelled instead. Not a single photo do I have because I wasn't bringing my phone or camera snorkelling!

*Approaching Colombia*



​Evenings passed with drinking games and /or card games. To say I was feeling old would be an understatement. Before leaving the marina I'd bought a bottle of rum - the only thing they had - but my stomach never really settled after the first night.
It meant that I had the dawns to myself while everyone else slept off their hangovers.

There was a change of pace for the last two days - the run to Cartagena. With no places to stop it was ...... what's the expression? Non stop! Food was simpler and there was no escaping the boat. I had no recurrence of the seasickness and while the others passed the time drinking I enjoyed my book and the endless sea views.
The last night the weather turned and dumped lots of rain, thunder and lightning. It's quite an experience a huge thunderstorm at sea!
In the dark there's the sound of the sea, explosions of light entering through whatever hatches or windows permit it followed by crashing thunder.
It's even more exciting when the boat was struck by lightning!
A huge bang and all the electrics died (including the fan!), we lost the engine for a while but soon everything was back to normal. It was the Captain's first lightning strike! 






As regards the bike, I removed the pedals and the front wheel. The handlebars were dropped and aligned with the frame. Ditto with the seatpost.
The connection for the Son dynohub was taped up, the Cycle2Charge converter disappeared under tape and plastic, the light was wrapped in plastic, then the whole bike was wrapped in plastic. I had given a good inspection at the campsite, sanded any gaps in the paint and used nail polish generously. It was stored well, in a section to itself and doesn't seem to have suffered any harm. 

I'm not at my best in groups, or at least don't feel particularly comfortable in strange groups. Everyone was pleasant and easy to get along with but as the only solo traveller there were times when I was the outsider. 
Snorkelling, for example, was done in pairs. 
I'm just too damn old for drinking games and while some of us had visited the same countries our experiences were very different. 
As I was breaking down the bike to load it onto the small boat to take us out I was asked in all seriousness if I was leaving the bike behind!
It's interesting to get a glimpse of how others do it and at the risk of coming across as a superior SOAB I had cause several times to wonder just how much of the country some got to see as opposed to the venues and activities laid on for tourists. 
I think I said it before but if I did this trip when I was younger it would have been very different.

A recurring thought regularly throughout this trip has to do with the merits, or otherwise, of solo travel. 
I think I'd have had more fun on the boat trip with a companion, but since I hadn't really thought about it much in advance I got to do what I wanted to do so I have no complaints.

Sitting at the Marina waiting for the dinghy to bring me out (solo traveller goes last!) I was chatting to the sterotypical retired sailor. Long, grey hair, tanned, weathered, lined face, lean and hardy with a never ending rum in his hand he seized on my drumming my fingers as evidence of nerves and fear.
"Not at all", I smiled back. "Excitement".
He studied me and declared triumphantly, if derogatorily, "You're a biker'". 
"I am. So?"
"All you bikers can't wait to get off the boat".
"Not me", I smiled, "not me". "I can't wait to get on! There may well be a problem getting me off!".

*Anchored in Cartagena*



​It's probably a strange thing to write but for me, the image of crossing the Panama Canal will be with me to my dying day. The San Blas islands? Not so much. 
We enjoy what we enjoy, irrespective of what Tripadvisor or anyone else says.
I enjoyed the boat. The sea. The wide open spaces. 

I must be the worst tourist in the Americas! North, and now South!!

*Snorkelling? No. Exploring islands? No. Boozing all day and night? No. 
This is all I wanted.*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Sep 2021)

Cartagena; The First Day

It is the best of places, the worst of places.

Cartagena doesn't just ooze history - it is history. The narrow streets, the colonial buildings in various states of repair and the cannons are all substantial evidence of that. There are a lot of cannons!

*Cartagena: The old and the new



*​The streets of the old town are just phenomenal - narrow, tall, colonial designs, vivid colours and usually bright, vibrant plant life. I could wander around for hours. And hours. And then do it all again in a different direction.

*These narrow streets are wonderful to walk along. The taller the buildings the more shade. Shade is important - the sun is relentless!*



​It is also hot. Very hot. I don't know if it's my increasing proximity to the equator but the sun feels hotter and burns more. With no bike there's no Gizmo but looking at a weather app on my phone late in the afternoon it told me it was 32C but felt 40! 

*An impressive pink building on the edge of the old town. I'd love to tell you more about it but I was heading for shade and in desperate need of a drink!*



​Cartagena, however, doesn't seem to approve of my meandering. 
I need a destination, a goal. Why? Because I will be pestered, shouted at, accosted and regularly interrogated about what I'm looking for and where I'm going.
It's usually a male, usually young, usually with something to sell - a hat, a bracelet, a t-shirt, but it's all just a prelude to the offer of drugs. And sometimes women.

I must look worse than I think - a junkie who can't manage to woo a woman!

*A lot of the streets had beautiful shots of colour*



​It took less than ten minutes from setting off from the marina on a loaded bike to be offered cocaine and some of those ten minutes were spent in a bank!
Walking around the old town? It was pretty constant. It's the preamble that gets to me. "Just hurry the fook up and get on with it", I think to myself when the latest chap slips in beside me and starts a conversation. 
Where am I going? Nowhere, I'm just following my nose.
What do I want? To be left alone.
Sometimes they follow me for a while. One chap grabbed me by the elbow and I had to fight the urge to clatter him.

*And some streets went to extra effort!*



​Perhaps being solo doesn't help. I don't have anyone else to talk to so that makes me a prime target. I think the pandemic adds to it. There are far less tourists around than usual so business must be slow.
It's frustrating. My usual modus operandi of sitting and watching is being seriously strained.

It also paints an interesting picture of what tourists get up to here. 
I've no interest in drugs other than my staples - caffeine, nicotine and the occasional alcohol. At this stage I can take booze, or leave it. Try and take my coffee away and there will be killings!
I used to take a "live and let live" attitude to others drug use but after México and doing a bit of reading around the subject the fact is consumption of the white powder costs a hell of a lot more than what someone pays for a gram.
The destruction of lives of complete innocents is on a huge scale. It may well be far away from the end user but it happens. 
I recall a few years ago reading about Colombia and Medellín in particular. I decided to put Medellín into Amazon and see what came back. Lots of books. And lots about "getting" the "best" women in Medellin. 
Yep. Books about how to acquire hookers. 
I was doubly shtumped.
First of all, who needs a book for that?
Second of all, who writes that kind of a book? Do people really want to project themselves as experts in that area?
I must be very old!

*Cool shade and lots of balconies. In fact, there were so many balconies I was reminded of Alpine architecture.*



​My first day in the city consisted of waiting at the marina for our passports to clear immigration. Interestingly, the Captain took our passports to Panamanian immigration in Puerto Lindo, kept them until Colombia and we never interacted with the immigration folks at all.
Natalie, the only female crew member, told me that a cyclist on the previous trip hadn't exited Costa Rica properly and was denied exit from Panamá! He had to go back to the border to exit properly! That was something I was thinking of doing when there were no places open to pay my CR exit tax! 

*I liked the little pink seat*



​Once I had my passport I set off to a bank for some cash (always nervous on the first attempt in a new country) then set off to the AirBnB. It was only a couple of kms so I meandered around a bit, then couldn't find the place but did find the bike shop which I had been in contact with about servicing the bike and they pointed out the door.

*How could I not walk down here? The street screams "Life!"*



​I got checked in, discovered a lack of wifi - a serious problem - and then set about trying to find my new Wahoo Roam. (A warranty replacement.) It had been sent to the address but due to an import charge had not been accepted. It showed up later that day. With no wifi though, it is mapless! (Edited to add that it actually has the maps on it - they just need to be updated).

*Just one of many, many doors that caught my eye*



​I popped out for a cold drink, a coffee and a snack and a wander then had a siesta and had my third shower of the day (no showers on the boat!) before heading out for a goodbye meal with all the folks from the boat.







Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Sep 2021)

Cartagena the other days Part 1

My second day meandering did not improve things. I headed into the old town and could not relax. At all. 

The harassment, because that's what it felt like, was constant. Stop to photograph a door (there are so many wonderful doors) and I'd be approached. Sit at a little Plaza or a little park and the same. It was like I was in Top Gun - my Spidey senses were tingling and klaxoning when someone got a "lock" on me. More often than not there were no evasive manoeuvres that I could take.

*Cartagena does have some interesting trees*



​It wasn't just the darker side of offers, it extended to tours (I have never seen so many people and places offering so many tours), restaurants, cigars, coffee shops and any kind of touristy store. A shout, a blocking manoeuvre, a laminated menu of choices (food, coffee, tour or crafts).
I tried to clear my head but it was so regular, so constant that it really, really annoyed me. The fact that I was regularly criss-crossing or reversing my progress on the streets didn't help. 
I must be lost and looking for something!

*Security is clearly an issue but nearly all buildings, certainly domestic dwellings are tasteful and secure.*



​Without a doubt, my favourite place is a little Plaza in front of a church in the Getsemeni neighbourhood where I am staying.
It seems to be quite a trendy area but in a very low brow way. 
People gather at the Plaza despite little shade, to meet and chat. Later, some food and drink carts show up. Empanadas, kebabs, burgers, cocktails all available. A local shop selling beers and soft drinks will pour your beer into a plastic glass.
Space to sit is very limited and it is a very sociable space. My only problem is that I tend to stick out as johnny-foreigner-no-friends.
Nobody hassles me there, though. Getting there and leaving though is running a gauntlet.
*
An impressive colonial building from the old customs plaza*



​There are lots of narrow side streets, some of which are converted to outdoor dining or drinking, serviced seemingly from people's homes! To sit and pass a night here with good company would be bliss. 
A narrow street, the sounds of people chatting, laughing, kids playing and cheerful music coming through a door and a window. 

The neighbourhood is quite famous for its colourful murals. Narrow streets and huge, brightly coloured murals combine to create an atmosphere far in excess of the sum of the individual parts. Unfortunately, stopping to take a photo will initiate a conversation leading to a sales pitch or a request for money. And normally a tail. I really dislike the tails. And the constant calling out.

*There are secure walls around the old town. Each time I went to walk them I gave up due to the heat. They didn't stop the city being pillaged by pirates though!*



​That's another thing - I appear to have forgotten all my Spanish! 
Slight hyperbole, but the Spanish here is spoken fast - very fast. It also seems like folk are talking with mouths full! I am really struggling.
Add to that I'm back in the land of crazy money - about 4500 pesos to the Euro - and even understanding how much I have to pay for something is a challenge.

*Getsemeni - a wonderful, winding street with murals on just about every flat surface*



​Despite email contact with a bike rental/repair shop before I'd left the Panama canal they weren't quite ready for me. You've gotta love Latin America!
The bike was dropped in on Friday and was ready on Saturday. No issue sourcing a (Shimano) 7 speed cassette or chain. 

*My favourite Plaza in Getsemeni. Have a look at the dresses for sale*



​With no wifi at the AirBnB I spent a good chunk of Saturday at a workstation in a mall (yes! A feckin' mall!). I thought it would be an idea to do a bit of recent research. 
I finished excited and a bit antsy.
Antsy because I came across more than a couple of reports of cycle tourists (and vehicle ones too!) being robbed. 
It looks like the collapse of Venezuela has swelled the population of ne'er-do-wells, or, perhaps, just desperate people. Heading towards Venezuela there are enough bad reports to bother me.
On the other hand it's exciting to open up a big, blank map of a country and try to fill it in!

*A crap photo of one of the unofficial drinking and dining streets. Lovely atmosphere. A place where a solo traveller feels …….. solo.*



​My Colombian friend back in NL has sent me a list of places to visit and I think I'll follow those, despite most cyclists heading in alternative directions.

*There is so much going on that I walked past this building half a dozen times before I actually noticed it. There is a lot of reconstruction and restoration work going on in the city*



​I also made a decision - no big cities! Colombia is going to be a small town country! My "route" will bring me close to both Bogotá and Medellín but I'm planning to avoid both. 

I sourced some nuts, bolts and washers for the Ortlieb repair, patched the hole and reattached the bracket.

*My favourite Plaza again, different day, different time.



*​I bought a needle and thread to repair my crotchless shorts. That exercise proved two things - my eyesight is failing and I am no sewer!

I went out on Saturday early evening after losing a good chunk of the day at the mall but was home within 10 minutes. I just could NOT take any more of the solicitation.


*I found these accommodating models to demonstrate the engineering and dressmaking wonder of some ladies fashions!
(It will make sense in the next post!)*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Sep 2021)

Cartagena the other days Part 2

Sunday, though, gave me a different perspective. An early morning bike ride to the beach(es) and the hotel area was unpleasant because of traffic (light but mainly taxis) and flooding after heavy rain last night. 

A walk back into the old town was far more pleasant! And relaxed! And enjoyable! 

I visited a couple of museums - a naval museum (of course!) and a museum dedicated to the Spanish Inquisition.

*An old church from a monastery. The church is still in operation but the monastery now boasts a pizza restaurant!*



​The Inquistion one had an interesting focus; Intolerance to other people's views and opinions is not a good thing. Punishing them for those views is a terrible thing.
When we stop to think about it, the Inquisition, in this part of the world, at least, really had some nerve:
"Let's go to a completely different part of the world. We'll take it over, kill lots of the natives with our diseases, import slaves from Africa, another part if the world, to replace them and then we'll torture and punish people for not being like us!
Of course they thought they were correct - they had God on their side! 
My mind wandered back to the Cathedral in CDMX and the indigenous people carrying out their cleansing rituals right outside. 
Some things can't be erased.

*A church. Bad tourist that I am I forget which one! I like the relative lack of ostentation.*



​The Naval Museum was a tad proud, but interesting. Much was made of a famous victory over the Spanish. As is often the case with me, the building itself was as interesting as the exhibits. Formerly a Jesuit building, then a hospital it is said to be haunted!

*Early morning in the hotel and beach district. Flooding after overnight rain, narrow beaches, most commercialised with sunloungers etc. for rent.



*​The park in front of the Inquisition museum and the open space beside the small, old, cathedral was where it was all happening though. 
Like México, a large area for kids to paint, easels, paper and paints supplied, another area for practicing roller blading and bike manoeuvres. A band playing in the park and a few simple stalls selling (fresh) lemonade, coffee and a type of potato cake. The only hassle I had here was from a fearless pigeon!
The area was packed, everyone relaxed, even the hustlers and grifters seemed to have taken the day off. It was, dare I say, a simple way to pass the day. 

*From the Naval Museum looking out to sea*



​Later, back in Getsemeni, the narrow streets were filled with people sitting eating and drinking, kids playing and the sounds of happy Carribbean music. A wonderful atmosphere, even for an outsider.

That's a thing I noticed - the music. Cartagena is another noisy place but the music is invariably upbeat and celebratory. In México, by contrast, while there was certainly cheerful music there were also themes of sadness and lonliness. 

*It was a hot Sunday!*



​Another quirk is that while there are some stray dogs wandering the centre there are far more cats! Lots and lots of cats!

The ******** taxis are back with their ******* horns!
They are driving me demented! Stop at the side of the road to look at something or to cross the road, one after another they will pull over, slow down and blast the horn. I could maybe get used to the first one but by the time the fifth taxi has penetrated my skull I've had enough! Even on the bike they do this. Most of the taxis are quite small - they haven't a hope of taking me, my bike and gear! It must be some kind of Pavlovian response or maybe people around here have lost the ability to raise their arm and flag down a cab.

But....... The coffee! Ah! The coffee!
I updated this with two posts per day from a coffee shop that had wifi. One update was enough but I wanted another coffee!
The street stuff is not bad at all, either. Significantly cheaper, it's better than what a lot of places sell in other parts of the world. Served black and sweet from a flask I foresee little Trangia use for a while.
Further south I fully intend on exploring coffee country.

*Beside the (small) principal park, a girl practises her bike skills. In a couple of minutes she'll be sharing the space with a gaggle of kids on rollerblades. Behind, in the space beside the Cathedral is a whole arts and crafts area for kids. A wonderful atmosphere.*



​I'd be remiss not to mention the female of the species. 
Way, way back when this trip was little more than an idea an old girlfriend who has travelled in these parts warned me not to go falling for any Mexican women. "The further south you go", she said, "the more beautiful they become".
That observation has been generally true (Panama and perhaps Costa Rica being outliers).

*I like doors!*



​I think a large part of it is the style - bright, bright colours, layers upon layers of fine material that move, sway, and billow with movement and the wind. 
Another aspect is just how cool (in the temperature sense) they appear. The tourists are glistening with sweat and probably sun protection but the locals are used to it.
Even when a simpler style is adopted, such as cut off jeans and a simple top there's an elegance to it that would be raw exhibitionism somewhere else. Classy, not carnal. Feminine not flagrant.
Then there is the simple contrast between basic white clothing and the typical nut brown (or darker) skin. 
In the interests of full disclosure, special mention needs to be made of the many style of tops that are little more than bras - with the emphasis on little!
(Due to extreme tiredness and slow internet the accompanying photo is in the previous post!)
I don't think it's stretching to suggest that never in the history of fashion has so little material held so much together!
Never a one for wasting time shopping I have to fight the urge to go into some women's fashion stores. There really are some spectacular dresses and outfits. 

*And door frames!*



​As elsewhere, the men have the choice of various t-shirt and shorts combinations. It really is unfair!

A big negative though is that they don't smile as much as the Mexicans, at least to me. I remember clearly the many, many smiles I received, even through a mask. Smiles that blazed from dark brown eyes.

It is interesting to watch the tourists adopt the local fashions. All shapes and sizes are catered for really, but the difference comes from the colouring. This afternoon I saw an obvious foreigner in a typical local, short yellow dress with spashes of greens, reds and blues for contrast. Unfortunately, the poor girl was very pasty skinned, had been burned vivid pink and had slathered cream all over her legs and arms. A kind of watery whitewash effect. 
So near and yet so far, far away!

*This ruin is a working restaurant! Very tastefully done. Unfortunately, it was an Italian restaurant and I have not travelled half way across the globe to eat Italian!



*​
I'm leaving town tomorrow (Monday) and heading east along the coast. I did consider leaving today (Sunday) to benefit from probably quieter roads but now at the end of the day I'm glad that I didn't. Sunday changed my perspective of Cartagena - for the better.

I did consider varying my route to avoid some troublespots but that will either take me away from where I want to go or put me on quieter roads where the risks may be higher. Or not.

Without today I'd probably be more conservative, but after a relatively hassle free day it's the coast road!

Heat is a concern too. It gets very hot. Very hot. And the power of the sun is not to be underestimated. It is amazing how quickly a cold drink becomes a tepid drink and there's a longish section with no services. 

*Colour is never to far away in Cartagena. If I wanted to paint my house this colour in NL the council would have had conniptions!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Sep 2021)

Sorry for the overload but it would be severely remiss of me not to give a taste of some of the fantastic street art of the Getsemeni district.













































*It was only when I looked at the photo did I realise that it was a snake!*





























*I really liked this one*













​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098
//


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Sep 2021)

Some more Central American Odds'n'Ends

*While town signs like these were common in Panamá (not so much Costa Rica) they were normally inaccessible to someone on a bike.*
_*







A Speed Bump. This one was simply rocks dumped in a cement mix. The first one I gingerly crossed, the second I was a bit more lax and the third nearly had me!







Since México I have passed many, many AA buildings. They are clearly marked as to what they are, have meeting times, contact information and other services clearly on display. It would appear the second A is not quite relevant! 








In Costa Rica it seems that Mother Nature is boss even of the power/phone lines








In Costa Rica crash barriers were regularly consumed by the flora. The start of the barriers didn't inspire confidence either!*_
*




*​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Sep 2021)

Day 738 , Monday, September 20 2021, Cartagena to Puerto Colombia, 112 km Total KM 11879
Min meters -10, Max Meters 85
Total Climb 529 Total Descent 485
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 31*

Leaving Cartagena

My nipples are killing me!

Well, if Carlsberg did city exits......
Leaving Cartagena was a piece of cake! On the road just before six I barely had to deal with the taxis. There was one, of course, who I diagnosed as suffering from TPS (Tiny Pecker Syndrome) who just had to cut across and ahead of me at a junction.
After that, minimal traffic and lots of room. I was a bit put out out to encounter a tunnel but pushed through some bushes onto a pleasant cycle path that bypassed it. I'm not a fan of tunnels on a bike.
Then I found myself on a new split four lane bridge that swept past the fancy apartment buildings and then some hovels and across a wide estuary. A smooth, clean shoulder all for me and cars that gave lots of space anyway.

*How's this for an exit?  A wide, clean shoulder, an interesting view. Not a bloody taxi in sight!*



​An old boy on a MTB passed me and noticing the ample hydration bag on his back I followed him. Back on the highway proper he had no qualms taking the lane at times so I did too! Not a single negative reaction.

At about 20km I pulled in to a filling station for a coffee and a bite of breakfast. God Bless us but the girl was a rapid speaker and me without my coffee!

*At my breakfast and coffee stop. I'm starting to think Colombia has a warm and fuzzy feeling for bikes!*



​Back on the road I was amazed at how quiet it was. A blessing, yes, after Panama but also a tad worrisome. Any bad actors wouldn't have to worry about too much traffic. 
A toll plaza had a lane for motorbikes and me - no problem to cruise on past.
After the plaza the road reverted to two lanes but that made no difference to me.
One thing very happily missing was the sound of horns. After Cartagena proper not a one for about 80km!

What. A. Difference! 

The shoulder wasn't always perfect but there were no problems in moving into the road.
Later, I had a total of four horns. Two were after roadworks when there was a bunch of traffic and one of those hammered out a tune. Can't see any malice or asshattery in that. A third was two Policemen on a motorbike who were busy waving and the fourth was my own fault, not paying enough attention going past a road crew and waving at everyone! 4 horns! That was a couple of minutes in Panamá!

*Lots of straight sections and lots of trees. For a coast road there were precious few views of the sea. To my right is a large swamp*



​There were quite a few roadworks today, traffic corralled into a single lane. Similarly, quite a few road crews working on verges. They weren't the most expressive of folks but one or two always waved.

The temperature was slowly building up and the power of the sun was rising too. I was making decent progress but was worried about later. Right on cue my Colombian amiga had sent me a message with the instruction not to ride the bike between 11 and 3! 
As the sun rose shade diminished and stopping outside of shade was very unpleasant. 

*The sea! After the swamp*



​I did stop for a cold drink and a short rest at a little, basic restaurant. Just after I sat down a group of soldiers, armed, came through along the road anf on foot in a sweeping action. I have no idea if it was a training exercise or for real.

At times there could be pedestrian traffic, often with a machete or other bikes - not recreational riders. I was on high alert at these times. Being wary of motorcyclists was exhausting because there were so many, often carrying two people and all moving relatively slowly. Two guys passed me slowly on one and I immediately noticed the passenger was covering the reg plate with his cap. A deliberate ploy to remain anonymous or has he lost too many caps and that is the natural place for his arm to fall? 
On one of the very rare occasions that I stopped at the side of the road I twigged a pair of guys on the opposite side slow down as they passed me then further on cross over to my lane. Back on the bike and off I went.
I gave an axe and machete wielding man a wide berth and felt bad for my reaction. 
I don't enjoy feeling like this but at the same time I can't ignore what I've read. Tomorrow will be similar then I hope to be better able to relax.

*Hardly world beating views but I was content to keep hammering out the kms



*​It was underwhelming cycling. The coast road doesn't mean you get to see a lot of the coast! After about 30km the interest picked up in the form of rolling hills and a headwind. A surprisingly strong headwind.
It's a long day after a reasonably long lay off the bike and there's a few risky points. I'll take a safe arrival over views.
There's a lot of development planned. A few fancy club/gated communities are being supplemented by many more. 
My view was generally straight ahead with trees on both sides. Nothing spectacular. 

I had pulled in to Santa Veronica in desperate need of water and a bite to eat when everything turned pear shaped.
I was sitting out of the sun under a thatch roof after a very pleasant chicken lunch when a notification popped up on my phone from Facebook.
Iohan Gueorguiev had died.

*The beach at Santa Veronica. Very narrow with a row of restaurants behind it. A pretty idyllic place to stop and get out of the heat for a while. A strange place to find myself battling tears*



​I'd mentioned him back in one of my posts about my preparation and inspiration.
His videos were fantastic and while I know that an autobiographical director can portray themselves any way they want there was a calmness to his videos, a "it'll all work out" philosophy on display. 
Maybe he was like a duck - calm and graceful on the surface but churning like a demon beneath - but I doubt it and that calm style spoke to me. 
It wasn't about the bike or the gear - it was about the journey. The people and the animals along the way. And enjoyment. I don't think I could survive, never mind enjoy some of the cycling he did, but I'm pretty sure he did.

I didn't know the guy. I enjoyed his videos. Was inspired by them. I didn't follow him on social media and a teeny part of me questioned if he was "selling out" by attending some global expos. 
Because I'm travelling I haven't looked at any of his videos in months.
So it was a complete surprise to find myself battling tears in a pretty idyllic location for someone I don't know and never met.
I don't think it's possible to lay out specifically what influence any one person has had on us. I wonder how many original (to me) ideas I have had that were subconsciously fired up by someone else. An inspiration has been lost and that is sad. Very sad. 
I hope his videos live on and inspire more people. People need to see others doing things to give them the courage to do their own things. 

The fact that he died at his own hand (after a long term sleep disorder) will no doubt inspire commentary about the psychological make up and effects of long term travel and travellers. 
It is a topic worth exploring but in a general sense, not in relation to one individual. 
How many of us have felt the blues after a bike tour?
He was a guy who went out, cycled across Canada and realised if he could do that he could cycle pretty much anywhere. So he did.
That's something to be celebrated in my book.

*A river heading for the sea. I broke my no malingering rule for a while. A slow river like this is very calming to me*



​I had tracked down a cheap homestay in Puerto Colombia and booked it during my lunch. There's another city further down the road but I've enough of them.
That last 25km was tough. Hot, hilly and my mind elsewhere.

*The other side of the bridge over the river!*



​It took me a while to make my way through the narrow streets of the town where everyone stared but a few smiled and then I had to carry everything upstairs.
It's an eccentric little setup staying with a family but I can join them for dinner and conversation. I need to improve my Spanish!

*For a hot, hot place it can be very, very green!*



​I was so tired that after a shower I abandoned my plan to explore the surprisingly big town. In any case, it's maze of streets would have me lost in no time and I'm a good way from the centre.
Instead, I perched myself on the balcony beside the bike and listened to the neighbourhood. It's loud!

*Puerto Colombia. Much bigger than it looked on the map, higgledy-piggledy buildings, narrow streets that zigged and zagged. And loud!*



​Another early start tomorrow and another century day methinks.

*_Yes! On a new continent I've decided to revert to the old format.
The number of days refers to how many since I rolled out of T-town (a frighteningly large number!), Total KM is up to Aporo (and the falling of the Covid hammer) added to my Covid Interlude total (a disappointingly small number!). It excludes any biking around CDMX_

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (25 Sep 2021)

Day 739, Tuesday, September 21, 2021, Puerto Colombia to Ciénega, 93 km Total KM 11972
Min meters 12, Max Meters 91
Total Climb 230 Total Descent 239
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 32

Colombia - hits all the erogenous zones!

Well, I slept like a baby!
When I got up I was presented with an unusual sight. The man of the house was asleep on a bed where a couch would normally be, his wife on a mattress on the floor beside him. A teenager slept on a mattress on the balcony. I know they had at least one long term resident staying with them and a daughter or two somewhere as well!

I had a coffee, got everything downstairs and headed into the town just after 6.

*Bouncing out of town*



​Once I had bounced and twisted my way through town and hit the main road I didn't know what was going on but the road was filled with bicycles! OK, a slight exaggeration, but there were lots and lots of cyclists, most on road bikes and dressed appropriately, some on simpler bikes. They were my company as I toddled towards Barranquila which turned out to be a very large city.
A handful acknowledged my presence out of the hundreds on the road but at least they all gave me space. In Holland, roadies can be a right pain to share a road (or bikepath) with.
There were cars waiting for them on the edge of Barranquilla so I saw them pulling up, legging it across two lanes of traffic, climbing over a barrier, two more lanes of traffic and then getting into a car.

*Back on the main road, a strangely specific bike sign and cyclists front and behind*



I took a kind of ring road to bring me around to the other side of the city. Like yesterday, I seized on the chance to follow two locals who seemed to be on a commute. Three full lanes of traffic on both sides with no shoulder - it was fun!
In an experience the complete polar opposite of Panamá I felt that I could trust the traffic.
Yes, there was huge amounts of noise, mainly horns but not directed at me, but there was a kindness to the chaos. Cars didn't pull out of slip roads, nor pass too close. A bus even waited for me to pass it! A bus!
It got progressively busier and more chaotic as I worked my way around and when the traffic slowed down it seemed perfectly reasonable to everyone for me to claim the middle of the lane to avoid the pedestrians, cyclists, a couple of horses and many bike taxis all going the wrong way on the edge of the road.
Chaos. But thrilling chaos.
Spotting a bakery I pulled in for breakfast then rejoined the chaos. I'd lost my guides earlier but picked up a new one - a frisky horse and cart.

*Looking back at Barranquilla, a surprisingly big place. I should probably start doing some better research*



​When the time came to turn for Santa Marta all the traffic went elsewhere and I found myself on a new bridge sweeping over a wide estuary. If any traffic objected to my presence (there was a blue cycle path on the far side of the railing!) they didn't make me aware of it.

*Not the first time I've ended up in the wrong place and no doubt, it won't be the last!*​





Off the bridge I was onto a split four laner with hardly any traffic. Just before a toll booth I pulled in for a coffee and to water up - after the toll plaza there is nothing for about 50km. That's 50 km of pretty straight road with a headwind and some heat - it was already 33C at 8:15!

If you look on a map you'll see the road runs along the coast and then along a strip of land not much wider than the road that closes off a bay. I have no idea if this is a natural or man made phenomenon but for the cyclist it means a pretty straight road and headwinds - or at least diagonal winds.
The wind was present all day. When I was in sight of the sea it was cooling, if powerful. However the more land, or swamp to be more specific, it crossed the hotter it was when it reached me. Not helping the situation were all the clouds keeping the heat steamy and humid.

*Colombian swamp. *



​Like yesterday, parts of this road have not been kind to previous cyclists so I was on edge a lot of the time. Motorcyclists especially were observed closely. Early on there were quite a few buildings to one side of the road. Shacks would be an appropriate description. A few touristy places were closed and up for sale. Later, I saw what could have been the remnants of some rough sleeping shelters under a few random trees off the road. Certainly little pockets of rubbish pointed to some human activity.
The fact is that on a road like this the solo cyclist can be quite vulnerable. There are no other roads. You ride to the end. Initially, traffic was quite light and well spaced out in both directions but it soon was steady enough. That should be protection enough. After the toll plaza the road diverted to a simple two laner so help was available on both sides if needed.

*Straight, windy, hot....... And if I'm honest, a little dull. The Carribbean doesn't do it for me. I love the idea that I'm cycling beside it (or sailing over it) but it lacks something. *​





Once I had crossed the bridge the road was flat and that could be the word of the day - flat.
There were no Wow moments. Parts were interesting, but generally my view was of trees on either side. There were few times when I thought "Oooh! I have to photograph that", which is probaby a good thing as I was wary of stopping anyway. Like yesterday I knew what was behind me but had no idea what was ahead.

I rode and sipped, sipped and rode. I wanted to get to Ciénega ( a town called Swamp!) at least, possibly Santa Marta, 35km further. I was having a niggly problem however.
Yesterday, my ass had become quite sore, or a specific point had to be more accurate. Today, it was acting up from the get go. I'd made a couple of saddle adjustments but they didn't help much after a few minutes. Sweating like something that sweats a lot doesn't help. My shorts spend a good chunk of these days very wet. A part of the problem is that I have shrunk! My shorts will happily slide down over my hips if I'm not careful, especially after a couple of hours on the bike. (That's also a part of the reason for the crotchless shorts - they end up being worn further down than they should).
This results in a kind of crinkling effect - of the material and the skin underneath.

*Swamp on the seaward side. There were a lot of dead tree stumps that cast an eerie atmosphere



*​There's a long settlement after the second toll booth and as the land starts to widen out. Spying shade I pulled in for a cold coke and a crisp sandwich - any food places were in the sun and nutrition was less important than shade!
An ice cold coke from a glass bottle, decent bread(!) and crisps may be a child's meal but it was gastronomic bliss!

*Spooky!*



​On reaching Ciénega (Swamp!) I decided enough was enough. It was hot, my ass needed attention and anyways, pushing on to Santa Marta would leave me with feck all time in Santa Marta.
The hotel was cheap in 2018 (iOverlander) and just as cheap for me! Very nice people made me welcome and tried to not make me feel too bad at not being able to understand them!
A refreshing cold shower and I was a man on a mission! Ciénega had a Plaza. Let's see what small town Colombian Plazas are like!

*This is my two finger salute to anxiety. Somewhere in the mid 30's km markers two cyclists had been held up at gun point. I'd been anxious for two days and decided that I was going to take some control back. So I stopped, took a photo, yelled an obscenity into the wind and reclaimed the road for people on bikes.
It probably seems dumb, but it feels pretty darn good!*



​Getting there was fun!
Doubling back along the road I'd travelled in on gave me a real appreciation for the chaos! Then I turned off onto smaller streets, through the market area (the noise!) and arrived, suddenly, into a calm, elegant and tranquil zone.
Some ancient deity must have dropped many portals in the Latin American world because I seem to be regularly transported between worlds in crossing a road.
It was a bit open, a bit too "managed" for my taste but it had the essentials and was a place for meeting and chatting.

Parched, I bought a litre of pineapple juice and plonked on a bench and watched.
And waited. And watched some more.
Not a lot happened.
What was I expecting? It was mid afternoon, the sun was blazing, the temperature high, and shade was limited. This ain't no Mexican park!

The Cathedral, brilliant white (a lot of buildings are) was old and pleasingly simple. Elegant not ostentatious. Quite a few people in for a mass or service that seemed to be starting at 4pm. And not all of them old enough to be on Peter's doorstep.

*A Colombian Plaza. To look at the Plaza, you'd be forgiven for thinking that Ciénega (Swamp!) was an elegant, cultured place. Walk two minutes to the right of the bandstand and you'd soon be corrected! That's not meant as a slur - I love the vibrancy, the life and the chaos of these places. Sure, I can be a little uncomfortable at times, but if I wanted comfort I wouldn't be travelling by bike!



*​Overcome with fatigue I wandered back to the hotel by a different route. I was barely approached - only by motorbike taxis. Pleasantly different.
Conscious of the fact that I needed to eat I kept my eyes open but nothing tempted me. I couldn't help but think of what I'd eat in México - a couple of fiery tacos. Even passing a chicken place failed to fire up the taste buds. Just before the hotel I hit a supermarket - some yoghurt, some granola and some water. How boring!
Back at the hotel I struggled to stay awake long enough to eat it!

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (26 Sep 2021)

Day 740, Wednesday, September 22, 2021, Ciénega to Santa Marta, 35 km Total KM 12007
Min meters 35, Max Meters 77
Total Climb 116 Total Descent 120
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 33

The day the smiles came back!

I was kind to myself only rising at 6am and popping out for a coffee. Ready to go at 7, the ladies at the hotel were anxious for me loading Roccado outside the door - they wanted me to do it inside without ever giving a reason why. Security was the only logical conclusion.

* A still image lacks the noise and movement, but believe me there was chaos on the street!*




​The first challenge was to get across the road! A constant line of trucks, buses, cars, pick-ups, horses, bike taxis, motorcycles and pedestrians in both directions. Once across though, I felt comfy despite the craziness. Loud, dusty, noisy, dirty, horn-filled, cloudy with fumes there was a lot in the air but no malice. Well, I'm excluding the Taxi drivers who have replaced Costa Rican and Panamanian bus drivers on my hit list!

*From the other side! Yes, that lady in the middle of it all is selling coffee! It took so long to cross the street the location of my nightly stops may need to be considered!*



​A little settlement a few kms along provided a breakfast opportunity - empañadas and coffee - and a smile. Getting ready to leave a man approached looking for a hex key. Of course, I had no idea what he needed but a quick mime and I handed over my multitool. He promptly disappeared back down the road. I got organised and started to roll back and saw him exiting a truck on the far side of the road. He was all fixed up and ready to go! 
I may be well loaded, but my gear fixes trucks!
We had a little chat and went on our respective ways.

*That's where I'm headed to! There are actually three National Parks located close to Santa Marta, and a lot of mountains.*



​A little later I came to a junction with the road to Bogotá requiring me to cross a two lane sliproad that took most of the traffic. A parked truck made it all the more complicated.
When the beeping started I was surprised and ignored it for a few seconds but when it persisted I looked back to see it was a motorbike rider, gesticulating wildly for me to go ahead while he directed traffic! I did and he did!
He pulled up beside me, a smile beaming through his helmet, called me a great adventurer and wished me a great journey before taking the slip road we had just passed.
Not one driver demonstrated a bad reaction!
That put the smile back on my face.
It's bizarre too, that I understood what he said while moving in three lanes of traffic and he speaking through a helmet but floundered with the ladies in the hotel!
​A hillier landscape, a quieter road, a smile plastered on my face, a sense of belonging and a short distance made for a very pleasant day's cycle.

Spying a shop I pulled in to buy some smokes. As I was leaving a big man asked me if I'd cycled up from Cartagena today.
Hmmmmmm. Let's look at the evidence.....
It's not even 8:30 am, Cartagena is more than 200 km away and I've just stopped to buy fags! We had a bit of a laugh about that one!

A little later I stopped on a bridge, smoked a ciggie looking at this view and thought about how feckin' lucky I am. 



​Then it was onwards and a little upwards to Santa Marta, a touristy town, but I'm hoping less invasive than Cartagena.
I headed for the Malecon (Promenade) to find it closed and very effectively blocked off.

*I consider myself to be easily pleased. A seaside town I want to see the sea! *



​I headed for the Plaza and had time to buy a lemonade from a vendor before the heavens opened! 
I moved when the rain stopped only to get caught again. 
I found a hotel, showered, tended my ass (a better placed mirror gave me a decent view - not so pretty!) and set off for the main museum in town that closed at 1pm.
On arrival, it was open until 5 (never trust Google!) but by reservation only. I went online to make a reservation but only tomorrow was possible.
What is it with museums not wanting me????? (Yes, this one is closed Mondays too!)
I explained my predicament to a guard who told me to return at 1pm. I did only to be asked for my passport!

I eventually got in! 

*As usual for me in these places I found the building as charming as the exhibition. I don't think I'll ever lose the thrill of a big tree in the middle of a building*



​A decent history of the area was explained from prehispanic times to the present day. There was also an exhibition on the life of Símon Bolívar (The Liberator) who stayed in the building before dying. That was a man who lived a lot and dealt with a lot of death.

*Some really bad planning on the main Plaza. The lovely, old museum building is on the left and someone let them put that ugly monstrosity on another side!*



​I'm looking for a handheld water heater, something small and light for being able to cook in a hotel room. With the rain, camping is, I think, a last resort and hotels here seem to offer less opportunities for Trangia cooking - I don't want the fumes to kill me!
So, that was my mission, no harm that it made me talk to people. To a man/woman they were all very helpful but not a one to be found. Wandering around town I was again reminded of the vitality of life here. Hectic! And it only a Wednesday!

*The pleasant, simple church*



​There's an entrepreneurial spirit here. On two separate streets after the rain I witnessed it. In one location a man had a long, wide and sturdy plank of wood that he placed across the river flowing down the street so that pedestrians could keep their feet dry - for a tip! When traffic came up went the plank.
In another location, two young lads no more than ten provided the same service utilising two beer crates. 

*In the rain the street becomes a river. It's just another money-making opportunity!*



​I was offered weed and cocaine but it was a tad less invasive than Cartagena. Lots of calls of "Amigo" but generally less persistent than before.

I did have the thought coming up here that I may stay an extra day if it was nice. It wouldn't do my ass any harm either. It is, but the fact that the beachfront is closed off is a PITA. I think I'll press on tomorrow, heading south. 

*A fixer upper opportunity! Santa Marta, despite being the first proper "Spanish" city was regularly attacked by Pirates and demolished on many occasions.*



​I had a startling thought in Cartagena. Chatting to friends I commented how I was on the last leg of my trip! That was a sobering thought!
Now, to put things in perspective, this "last leg" could be up to 15000km but it still struck home. 
Always on a bike tour we hit that point where we're heading home. Have I just passed mine?

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (26 Sep 2021)

Day 741, Thursday, September 23, 2021, 

Rest Day Santa Marta






Sleep is a funny thing. I dreamed that I overslept, waking up about 8:30 and reconciled myself to missing the best (read coolest) part of the day for cycling.
Then I woke up.
The truth was I'd had an iffy night's sleep and was very tired so waking up in that frame of mind my decision was already made for me so to speak.
A day off for my ass would not be a bad thing. There's an oval patch, about 2cm across without skin. It is not pleasant.

*The old(ish) and the new in Santa Marta



*​Santa Marta was a bit like Cartagena in that it both charmed me at times and appalled me at others. 
The charming is easy - narrow streets full of character, old buildings, bright colours, a couple of plazas to hang out and watch, a bustling commercial area that is just so full of life.
The appalling, though, was never too far away - the constant solicitation and regular offers of drugs. 

*Some buildings are ruins, others are well cared for - all on the one street*



​Just wandering around, aimlessly, as I like to do is proving to be difficult and less than pleasant. It's hard to be in the moment when someone, somewhere is calling out to me or thrusting something under my nose then whispering in my ear.

*The rather impressive Palace of Justice, located on one side of the "Children's Park". A lovely place to sit, relax, meet. Restaurants line two sides of the park and two adjacent streets are full of eating places. Street vendors sell coffee, juices and ice creams. Lovely, unless you're white and sitting on your own. I visited in the morning, afternoon, early evening and night. Each time I could get no peace.



*​There are a lot of tours on offer here, the most famous being a 4 day return trek to a "Lost City". 
Back in Cartagena, one of the couples were thinking of doing this and another guy at the restaurant chimed in to say he had just done it. "Miserable", was his judgement, "ferociously hot, humid, a neverending battle against bugs and being constantly wet and muddy", were some other comments. "But", he added "you think about what you're doing and you feel really great".
That made up the mind of the female member of the couple and she turned to her (far less vocal partner) to announce that they would do it! His face, which had become more and more uncomfortable as the other guy spoke, formed, what I assumed to be his regular "Yes, dear", look. 
Sometimes being solo has its advantages!
I thought it interesting that there was no talk of the city itself, what was to be seen, just a focus on the hike itself. 
In any case, it's not on my to-do list!

*The main beach with the closed prom behind. The blue things are for sitting in (I'm presuming sun protection). At the end is a small container port. There's a coal port (for exporting) further back the coast with a line of freighters waiting to load. Bananas were traditionally a major crop from here*



​The prom being closed really disappointed me but I did take a wander over to the marina - no entry and spied a couple of beaches. The beaches here tend to be small and very commercialised. Perhaps I'm just nostalgically thinking back to Irish beaches but, to me, something is missing.

I bought some gauze for my ass and continued my search for a water heater with no joy. I did buy a softer pair of shorts for my ass. This brought me away from the old town and into the newer areas. Not a lot to see of interest.

*I did enjoy the artwork. It was pretty much everywhere and to a higher standard than the wall deserved usually. Of course, taking a photo was the same as taking iut a megaphone and announcing that I'm a tourist*



​I finally got to bring my Strava feed up to date, it had been languishing back on the Pan-American in Panamá and nothing deserves that!

*Sitting at a table this was dropped down for me. I was intrigued by the specificity of "50 beautiful girls" and bemused by the no guns sign.*



​In the cool of the evening I took another wander around, braving the restaurant folk thrusting menus at me. I ate cheaply and well at a non touristy place but treated myself to an ice-cream afterwards on one of the little streets. I thought it would be peaceful and quiet. It certainly wasn't peaceful.

*Taken through an iron barrier, the ruin of an old building.*



​My ass is worrying me a bit. I should not have ignored the discomfort on the first day but I was reluctant to stop. 
I met a chap once along the Rhine as he headed to the most northerly point of Europe - for the second time.
The poor chap had terrible problems with saddle sores on his first attempt and ended up in a Scandinavian hospital with blood poisoning! His story has always stayed with me. He just kept on going, being a rather plan orientated chap, not pausing to give himself some recovery time.






An early night was had in preparation for another long day tomorrow.

*If you get the timing right it's a lovely old town full of character*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Sep 2021)

Day 742, Friday, September 24, 2021, Santa Marta to Fundación, 101 km Total KM 12108
Min meters 16, Max Meters 78
Total Climb 277 Total Descent 254
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 33

Feeling it - in my ass of all places!

Getting out of town at about 6:30 wasn't too trying. From México down the motorbike has been well represented on the roads but I think Colombia may be hitting peak motorbike. They tend to be lawless and a little intimidating on foot and at traffic lights. This morning I was moving before the most of them were up and out.

Santa Marta is a well spread out town with what seems to be a bit of a new town built up around the airport. It was there I stopped for a bite of breakfast - a couple of empañadas and some raspberry juice. 
The man who served me was slow to talk but eventually couldn't resist asking about the bike. Every answer was carefully considered with a serious expression. He looked a tad shocked that I had cycled in México! It's always dangerous in the other place!

*Apropos nada - a display where I stopped for my coffee. Old Parr Whisky is very popular in these parts. Has anyone ever seen a bottle? *



​I set off again and after about 30km pulled in for a coffee at a biggish restaurant. I was the only customer. When I asked for a second cup the lady did her best from an almost empty pot. She was very smiley and pleasant and I enjoyed my half cup.

I was actually travelling back towards Ciénega on the opposite side of the road but I had different views so wasn't bothered about a do-over.
I wasn't looking forward to the junction that the motorbike had helped me with on the way up but it was easy peasy. 

*Looking back at where I had come from before taking the road to Bogotá. I declined going into the mountains after Santa Marta because of weather and expense. I wanted to be in mote normal places and out of the tourist zone*



​Then I was on the main road to Bogotá! 
Bogotá! Wow! I'm not in Kansas anymore!

The road started out as a simple shoulderless two laner and after a few km morphed into a tiny shouldered two laner.
The traffic after the junction was heavy in both directions and a lot of it was heavy trucks.

I should not have enjoyed today as much as I did. But I did! 

*Two lanes, no shoulder and a lot of traffic. Surprisingly good cycling!*



​One thing for certain is that I am not in Panamá any more!
One closeish pass over the whole day!
There was a tremendous amount of respect for the cyclist with traffic slowing down and sitting back if an overtake was too dangerous, lots of space given for the overtake and more often than not even oncoming traffic abandoned their overtakes when they saw me. 
I started saluting every act of respect but soon had to give up because riding a loaded bike one handed (and at times hands free!) for a sustained period is neither comfortable nor safe!
I'm back in a place where I'm a welcome part of the road.

*The neverending banana field!*



​Then there were the views! National Geographic won't be sending a crew but they were interesting and varied. The bends and the rolling hills gave different perspectives. Best of all were the trees, normally lining the road, sometimes forming a tunnel over it. When they were absent I had miles and miles of banana plantations to my right and densely covered hills to my left.

When I had turned on to the road I saw the temperature rise on Gizmo but paradoxically felt cooler. Regular shade was a blessing and a wind from the south was cooling too.

*Views were interesting if not spectacular and I felt comfortable enough on the road to be able to enjoy them*



​Along the way were several little towns and villages meaning I didn't have to worry about food or drink and that I always had a regular bit of entertainment. 
Unfortunately, none of these had accommodation if my ass was acting up but the gauze seemed to be doing a decent job of giving a bit of protection. The saddle was set at an unusual angle to remove as much pressure as possible from the afflicted side without repeating the injury to the healthy side. It seemed to be working.

There were rivers too! Lots of them, big and small. I'm leaving the sea behind me and not quite sure when I'll see it again. Rivers and lakes will have to satisfy my water cravings and Columbia is looking after me so far.

*This river was singing to me as it bubbled underneath*



​I pulled up to a little stand in a little village and didn't get hassled at all! There's a lot of deep-fried food here so I had deep-fried meat and veggies in batter. And a chat. My Spanish is coming back! My hostess took pity on me and offered me a chair, gratefully accepted. The chat was the best part and sitting watching the little town live.

All the motorbike taxis were parked up on one side (the bus stop was on the other). A motorbike taxi is a motorbike. And generally a young fella. Don't be expecting a big, powerful bike or even one that's young and shiny. These are well used machines. A helmet? What's that?
I saw a woman get off a bus laden down with two heavy bags. The first bag, biggest and heaviest gets placed on the fuel tank and is supported by the rider's arms (it took the driver and a helper to lift it on).
Then the passenger gets on the back and the second bag is placed between her and driver. Off they go!
While waiting, the other bike taxis will help out passengers getting on or off the buses, hauling bags and flagging the right bus down. It's all very dramatic and loud, I reckon the more drama and noise the bigger the tip. A lone cow grazed at whatever is available on the side of the road in a small Colombian town. Untethered, she was free to roam as she wished. Other towns had goats - a bit more lively but just as free!

*Mountains! I'm passing these ones but there are more waiting for me down the road!*



​Back on the road it was really great cycling and I was really enjoying powering along. The first few shoulderless kms I had pulled in a few times to let trucks past but now the shoulder was just wide enough for me and besides, everyone pulled out anyway. Great progress was being made and that always feels good.
My ass, sensitive as it was, wasn't rebelling as much as I expected so that was good too! 

I pulled into another little village for cold water and waiting trying to cross the busy road I was approached by another cyclist wondering if I had a problem. And then another! So a nice chat was had on the side of the road amidst all the trucks! I waxed lyrically about how much I was enjoying the road.
The girl cyclist offered me some coca leaves, something I have read about and wanted to try. They're not illegal! and have traditionally been used to ward off hunger, thirst and to give energy.
I followed their instructions and set off again.

*The road was making eyes at me!



*​I was happily flying along and soon came to little towns that had accommodation but was feeling so good I kept on going. I didn't think I'd make it but soon I was at the turn off for Fundación. Here, I could choose a simple hotel at the side of the road or bike 4km to the town itself. The town it was! 

*Surprisingly green and wild landscape



*​There was no obvious Plaza to head for so I wandered around until I spied a bakery. Yes, they had coffee so I sipped a delicious café con leche and enjoyed a pastry before seeking out a hotel. 
It's a crazy and busy place. Loud too! A few places were closed but I found one and got their cheapest room.
A shower, an ass inspection (not so bad for a 100km day!) and I went awandering.

Again, the town is much larger and busier than I expected. Of course, it does actually have a small Plaza in front of the church, but not in the usual place in relation to the town and the street numbering system. The church would fill (following social distance guidelines) later with more outside for evening mass.
I especially liked painted lamp-posts with squirrels and other animals. Simple, cheap and effective at bringing a bit of life and cheer.
The commercial area was chaos! Intersecting streets jam packed with stores and stalls! One street for fruit and veg, another for meat and poultry. All the hardware places together, a neverending number of phone shops and stalls. Music pumping out of every second store and of course none of them played the same songs!
I always had to watch where I was walking. Broken kerbs, potholes and even a tiny kitten were all obstacles!
Some streets were flooded - from what I don't know as there was no evidence of rain.
I managed to locate a water heater! The older lady knew immediately what I was looking for, had a think, hauled a chair and pulled it down from a hook high on a shelf. Covered in years of dust I asked her if it worked.
She looked at me, smiled, shrugged her shoulders and said "of course!" with a twinkle in her eye. At slightly over one Euro I took a gamble. Four minutes to boil the contents of my flask!

*The pleasant, simple church a bit off the beaten path. There's less ostentation to the churches I've seen here.*



​I ate at a little place on the Plaza then returned the long and winding way to the hotel. Long queues at all the atms suggested a busy Friday night and lots of little food and drink stalls were set up. I was amused to see some women, all done up in their finery for a Friday night on the back of a battered motorbike getting a ride from some scruffy chap. I'd chosen the hotel for location and was pleased to see that it was now in a quieter area since most of the shops were closed.

Small town Colombia is fascinating and frantic. Not the best for sleeping!


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Sep 2021)

Day 743, Saturday, September 25, 2021, Fundación to Bosconia, 72 km Total KM 12180
Min meters 62, Max Meters 176
Total Climb 233 Total Descent 172
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 35


On the Ruta del sol

I woke up this morning before my alarm refreshed and well rested but nowhere near as ecstatic as the lady in the room next to me. She was very vocal in expressing her satisfaction!

I was in no particular rush; Breakfast was included and I reckoned I only had 70 odd km to go. More trees, more shade, sure it'll be grand.
Breakfast wasn't worth waiting around for as things turned out so I headed off a bit late and a tad annoyed.
I put the time out of my mind and the road looked after the annoyance. A crazy little town to exit, a quiet road to the highway and I was reunited with my friend, Highway 45, also known as the Ruta del Sol. It is an appropriate name.

*The quiet road back to the main road. The town itself was chaotic with motorbikes everywhere*



​It was busy in both directions, a lot of trucks but I relaxed back in to my place.
Yes, it was quite relaxing. The road surface seemed bumpier than yesterday which was a minor PITA, literally, and there was definitely less shade which was more of an issue.

*Back on the Ruta del Sol. Look at all that lovely shade!*



​Thirty kms passed easily enough despite a bit of gentle climbing to the first little town where I pulled in for water and an apple. Then it was on again. This time 20 km to the next town. Twenty harder, hotter km.

There are a lot of little rivers which normally have a crash barrier or low wall along them, perfect for stopping if there's shade. I made good use when I could, but the greatest relief from the heat were the few stretches of a few hundred meters of shade. Oh bliss! Like hundreds of cool, featherlight kisses all over me. They always ended far too soon and the blast of the sun was a shock again!

*While the views won't win awards I enjoyed the varying landscape, the colours and the textures*



​The bigger bridges over the bigger rivers can be trickier. Pretty much all the bridges have work going on around them. They seem to be expanding the road into a dual carriageway so prep work is taking place. On one bridge with a truck looming up behind me I pulled into the shoulder to give him room. The shoulder, because of nearby work, was full of sand, gravel and crap.
Two rapid toots from behind could have been translated as; "Hey, you on the bike! Get your ass out of that crappy shoulder and take your rightful place on the road".
I did, gratefully, got across the bridge and when the shoulder was its usual clean self pulled back in, saluting the driver. He pressed out a happy horn rhythm as he passed.
I'm really starting to like Colombia!
Similarly, if stopped on the side of the road all traffic gave me a wide berth. I've become accustomed to being invisible when stopped. Not here.

*It's starting to heat up!



*​At the 50km mark I was approaching the town of El Copey and since I'm in no rush decided to pedal through, rather than past. It took a while for the chaos to kick in, but it did! No real plaza that I could find but I did find a little eating place for lunch. I had chicken with rice and some kind of pulses in a delicious, meaty gravy. And fried banana! Very tasty!
The lady looking after me was very pleasant, very smiley and approached me at the bike to return the tip I had left for her. I had to explain it was a tip, for her. Such a refreshing change from Panamá and Costa Rica where a tip was normally included on the bill. It was similar yesterday at my lunch stop.

*I had a very disturbing thought today - at some stage I am going to run out of Palm trees! I have no idea when that will be but Palm Trees for me are special signs that I am in a different world *



​I'd had a good rest and was ready to go again. I'd spotted a hotel and debated with myself about staying but there's little to see and besides, it was only 11 am!

Bosconia was the next biggish town, another 20 odd km. That'll do.
It was more of the same. Pretty straight roads, too much sun and not enough shade. It helped that there was a gentle decline generally and a headwind.

*These trees have some kind of a hanging moss. I found them captivating*



​Bigger town, bigger craziness, but I'm getting used to it. I'd emailed a hotel yesterday evening but had no response. iOverlander had an unusual listing and I knew there were some trucker motels on the road out of town.
I headed for the iOverlander place, an unnamed, unsigned hotel. Surprisingly good! When I asked the guy if he needed my passport (a requirement thus far) he just looked at me and asked "why?" I checked in and as a testament to the heat here, king wimp turned off the (first) hot water (for weeks!) in favour of the cold!
With decent internet I chatted to a friend in Ireland, then set off to explore.

*No caption necessary!*



​Oh dear! Not a lot to see. The principal Plaza was a disappointment, just a big ooen space devoid of any culture, history or soul so I went off in search of food.
My restaurant feelers are in good order! With no menu I had to explain what I wanted which was fine. Set menus are common here with soup as a starting course. Now, I have a mental block when it comes to soup and my first reaction is to say no. The waitress, however, ignored my refusal and with a smile brought me a delicious soup!
The rest of the dinner was just as good. "Sweaty" chicken as I had translated it seemed to be poached in delicious herbs.

*Lovely mountains because I don't have to climb them! *



​I bought some water and returned to the hotel, took out my big map and had another look further south. I'm getting a feel for the country now and there are a few options I can consider.

*There is always great life along the rivers here*



​Research done I used the good internet to watch a rugby match from earlier today. Youtube can be great!

*The very disappointing Plaza and church*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Sep 2021)

Day 744, Sunday, September 26, 2021, Bosconia to Curumaní, 100 km Total KM 12280
Min meters 44, Max Meters 96
Total Climb 53 Total Descent 62
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 35

There must be be great overtime rates for Sunday truckers!

One of the problems with solo touring is that there is no-one to give me a gee up in the mornings! In fairness, someone had been having a party somewhere close by that went on until 4:30ish. A party here involves a lot of music!

Slow to rise I promptly stopped for a coffee. The lady suggested an arapa with eggs - sure, why not?
Standing on the side of the road munching on a fried envelope of cornflour filled with egg and a salty, white cheese and sipping on a café con leche is a great way to get an appreciation of these small towns. Not bad energy food either!

*Heading off for the day. I was so confident that the road would stay cool and shady like this!*



​I set off then onto a well shaded two laner and settled back for a long, interesting and shady ride. Shade was going to be important since Gizmo was already reading 30C.

Ha! Dumbass!

It didn't take long for the two lanes to turn to four and everything to open up. Fantastic riding, for sure, with a great wide shoulder but bloody hot! Even at 7:30 the sun burns!

*Unfortunately the road went to four lanes (the other two are way over there!) and opened up. Heat was a big issue today.*



​Removed from the countryside (it was now over there rather than beside me) I just enjoyed the cycling. Pleasant mountains peeked out of clouds off in the distance. As long as I could keep the speed up I could stop the heat getting too oppressive

Surprisingly for a Sunday there were a lot of trucks on the road. A lot!
I stopped off at a little bakery after 30 fast kms for a snack and since they had no coffee, a cold drink. Then back onto the road.

*There were a lot of ponds today, big and small, some covered in lillies. (The last time I ever saw so many ponds was in the countryside around Ieper / Ypres. It took me a while to figure out they were originally bomb craters!)*



​It was two lanes for a while, narrow shoulder and a rough surface that my ass was not happy with. It was as if the road had melted at some stage and been compressed from both sides so that "waves" of tarmac ran along it. They were tricky to avoid and once in the gap between two, trickier to get out of.
It passed however and I was back to four lanes - and bright sunshine.

I had a bit of a surprise when "my" side of the highway was closed off. What do I do? Live the dream and take the closed road or be boring and follow the directions?
Gizmo showed a river further down and fearing a bridge issue I did the boring thing and took the shoulder on the opposite side. It's too hot for taking unnecessary risks. Besides, I had the perfect set up in the shoulder.

So it continued for most of the day, swinging over from one side to the other since the road is being expanded. Sometimes both sides were open, sometimes only one. For a loaded cyclist it made little difference.

*A swiftly moving river. There was a collection of lines criss crossing the river, other lines descending from them to plastic bottles in the water. I presume some kind of fishing system. The rushing water made a very powerful noise*



​At 50km I stopped at a little stall with shade for a coffee. Temperature was now 40C and above. I resisted the urge to check in to a cheap hotel because it was too early and there was nothing, and I mean nothing, except the hotel, a filling station and this little shop. I'd go crazy!

On again and the heat was really getting to me. Or more accurately, the sun. With little shade I was getting the full blast. At about 70km I pulled into a deserted service station for the shade and passed an hour.

*To my right the countryside often opened up. This area is in the floodplain of the Magdalene river so tends to flat.*



​I was only about 25km from the next town and that would be enough. Booking had a deal so I booked, hopped on the bike and pedalled off.
Within minutes the touring Gods were shining shading down on me as the road reverted to two lanes under a canopy of trees! Shade! Glorious shade! I rejoiced! And sang! To be honest I think I rivalled the woman in the room next door the other morning with sounds of pleasure!

*I just love the trees!*



​And then I had the closest experience I've ever had with a truck.
I had stopped in the shoulder, now much narrower, about 1 meter wide to photo the road and the traffic.
With no warning a truck started blasting its horn and moved into the shoulder. I distinctly recall seeing its wheels crossing the line into the shoulder.
I looked on as the wheels (and everything attached to them) rolled beside my feet, brushing my panniers.
In a bizarre mix up in time it was over before I knew it yet seemed to happen in slow motion.
A car had overtaken the truck into oncoming traffic and pulled over too soon.
I waited for the shock to hit me but it never arrived.
I was looking at the space I had in the shoulder, estimating the width of truck tyres and trying to figure out how I wasn't hit or squashed.
Remarkably calm I continued on.

*Mountains to my left*



​Passing a village I stopped again and was struck by the loud music pumping out across the road. Who was she giving her kisses to now? the singer wanted to know.
How cool is that? I can understand lyrics!
It was a bar, typical of here, just a small block building half filled with speakers! This one had a decent sized shaded area outside where men and women were sitting drinking bottled beer. It looked so inviting! I was sorely tempted to join them but my sensible head overruled me. It wasn't the booze I wanted, but a bit of social interaction.

And that was my arrival into Curumaní along narrow roads floating along in a river of trucks but in the shade.
I found the hotel easily enough, downed a cold beer and had a long, cold shower! Such bliss.

*Right after this photo is when I had my near squishing experience. Earlier I had been rejoicing in the shade. It is amazing to me just how much of a difference there can be in temperature and comfort*



​Then I set off to explore the little town, typically crazy and quite busy, even for a Sunday with a lot of shops shut. A few bars had people sitting outside. I saw no evidence of the large scale Sunday drunkeness I'd seen in Central America. In fact, the bars here are quite open or have people sitting outside. In previous places it was next nigh to impossible to see the drinkers.
There was no Plaza that I could see, but the church was simple. It had a car beside the altar wrapped up in a bow! I presume some prize for a fundraising effort. It's not often I see a car in a church!
Along the busy road I spied two iguanas hanging out under a tree. With all the traffic, people, not to mention dogs and cats around I was surprised, but it didn't seem to be an unusual sight.
A family of five (two adults, three kids) passed being driven in a tuktuk with the baby's buggy strapped on the roof. Never have so many travelled in such a small space! I also spied a couple and their three children on a motorbike! Strangely, there are a lot less pickup trucks here and it is rare to see people being transported that way.

*The scenery thus far is interesting. It varies so keeps me interested but there's no huge reason to cycle this road except to get to where I want to go. I'm loving the rivers, though, and there's a lot of them!*



​The slogan on the window of the Police Station said "For God and the Fatherland" (Dios y Patria). Hmmmmm. It's not as if either of those have ever been the inspiration for unpleasant acts.
There are a lot of Police checkpoints but I have never been stopped and I see a lot of Police daily. Usually there are in quasi military uniforms and machine guns are common.

*There's two iguanas in this picture. Slap bang in the centre of town, beside the road that is chock full of big, loud trucks. I was the only person interested in them, marking me out as a tourist! *



​By 5pm all the food places were closing so I had to rush to get a bite to eat. I picked up a few bits and pieces in a supermarket and got back to the hotel. They have a pleasant outdoor area where the daughter of the owner, all of about four years old came over to chat, telling me of the iguanas that live here.

Not a bad way to end the day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Sep 2021)

Day 745, Monday, September 27, 2021, Curumaní to Pelaya, 68 km Total KM 12348
Min meters 36, Max Meters 86
Total Climb 230 Total Descent 195
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 32

I cycled through Las Vegas today!

It was my plan to be up early, head away at first light (about 5:30 these days) and do another century day. But as is the way with my plans there was some outside intervention. In this case it was an attack of the Flying Monkeys from the Wizard of Oz!
Well, that's what I thought it was when I awoke in a tizzy at about 3:30 but it turned out to be rain. Lots and lots of rain.
It was still going at 4:30 and at 5 so I gave up on my early departure.

It's not that I'm a rain wimp - in fact I quite enjoy a cycle in the rain so long as it's not too cold (hardly an issue at the moment) - it's that the roads and especially the sides of the roads flood easily and the water can disguise all kinds of perils.

*I do like my layers of mountains with different shades*



​It was close to 7 when I finally rolled away, down the street to stop for a coffee and a bite. Today I got to sit down and I have to say I am really enjoying the morning scenes in these towns.
There is just so much activity and life!
This morning I was watching a stray dog who kept approaching the food stall looking for a tidbit then nervously running away. A big dog, he was timid for his size but friendly. He had approached me yesterday as I wandered and bumped his head against my hand looking for attention.
Today it was all about food for him. The one time his courage took root and he didn't scamper nervously off a bitch came out of the shadows, barked once and he was off to the other side of the road.

*No, the views aren't spectacular but they are varied and interesting.*



​I rolled out of town, a whale in a flood of motorcycling sharks. There really are a lot of motorbikes! I was pleased to see that apart from the odd puddle the drainage systems seemed to have worked well and I was able to sit back and enjoy the relative cool. A shady road helped a lot too.

Like yesterday, the road would vary between two and four lanes but I had a decent or a glorious shoulder most of the time. Most of the traffic (again mainly trucks) was coming against me so my environment was very pleasant.

*I have no idea what these fruit were but they seemed ripe and ready for picking along the road*



A motorbike passed me slowly, beeped then further down the road slowed right down and seemed to be waiting for me. A tad nervous I approached but had no need to worry when I caught the bright smile.
Carlos, about 16, was on his way to work. He kept pace with me and we chatted surprisingly easily. If any traffic was bothered by a slow moving motorbike on the road no-one complained.
Despite saying that he wanted to practise his English he didn't use a word and I didn't embarass myself too much either.
We stopped so he could take a photo and stopped again so that I could show him DuoLingo to practice his English.

*Mountains and clouds. Great for atmosphere*



​I couldn't pass the town of Las Vegas without stopping! I had a coffee and observed life in the small town. The taxi and moto taxi guys hanging out in the shade, three women on the side of the road selling fruit and drinks to passing truckers. Flirting too if that would help a sale. They seemed to take it in turns, the two sitting down passing judgement on what the seller was doing or saying. Regular screeches of laughter from there.

On the way into town a guy slowed down his motorbike and asked me where I was from. The expression on his face when I said "Ireland" was hilarious!

Leaving town I saw three pigs, loose and snuffling in the verge, moving towards town. What drew my attention to them was the behaviour of the trucks - to a one they all slowed down, put on hazard lights and gave the pigs a wide berth. Not a one beeped a horn or did anything to drive them away. I found that to be quite heartwarming even if I am treated similarly!😊

*Three little pigs on an adventure! I pulled in to watch these vigorous animals and at one stage it looked like they were going to come over to me. Every single truck avoided them without upsetting them. No signs of annoyance or irritation. I moved on quite light-hearted.*



​The towns and villages were nicely spaced out today and I took advantage stopping in most after deciding to abort my century day. My ass was feeling very sensitive and I was having trouble finding a comfortable position.

Sitting and resting in one such town I received a tap on my shoulder from Winder. He's cycling from Bogotá to Santa Marta, saw me and stopped for a chat. He was heading for Bosconia and about 150km for the day! He was travelling lighter than me making use of a type of homemade bikepacking setup. A very pleasant chap he didn't stop smiling the whole time.
His bike, a knobbly tyred MTB with front suspension, would not be considered suitable by many but I think they forgot to tell him!

*It's getting hot now. That's the other side of the road. Separated here means way over there!*



​At that stage I had decided that the next town, Pelaya, would be enough for today. Beyond that, I had a hotel in the middle of nowhere or 45km more to a town with more options. A rest for my ass and another little town would do the job.

The Touring Gods, however, weren't finished with me yet!
Cruising along the shoulder I spotted a slow moving vehicle in front of me. It turned out to be a wheelchair tricycle manned by an old man travelling from Venezuela to Ecuador!
Venezuela to Ecuador!
In a wheelchair with pedals and a front wheel and a load of knick knacks for sale hanging off the canopy that gave him some weather protection.
I didn't want to enquire too much about his story but he seemed to be in a very positive state of mind. I offered him water which he declined but happily accepted the fruit and nut mix I had picked up yesterday.






iOverlander had a recommendation for a hotel/restaurant on the edge of town so I had a quick look at the town, returned, ate and checked in.
A shower and a decent mirror to inspect the damage to my ass and off out to explore.

*And, of course, a river! Lots of rivers.



*​Colombia is confusing with prices. A bottle of water can vary in price significantly. A fresh lemonade (divine on a hot day) can too! Of course, there are no pricelists offered, and sometimes I do wonder if I'm paying the "Gringo price". Thankfully, in these smaller towns it happens much less. I had a coffee and a fresh lemonade for less than 50 cents.
Refreshed and rejuvenated I wandered to the little Plaza, got an ice cream and plonked down to watch.

There is a lack of activity in these places which is a bit of a shame if for no other reason I can't quite be lost in the crowd if there is no crowd.
I returned to the main street where all the activity was and enjoyed another coffee watching the world go by in all kinds of crazy ways. Then the heavens opened and most of the activity stopped.
One of the older ladies running the stall was all chat asking me about my trip. My understanding is improving, but it's still very difficult.

When the rain stopped a quick dash to a shop for water and back to the hotel for an early night.

*The interesting Plaza in Pelaya. There was seating around the edges and a few low trees for shade, the church had ooen windows (no glass) and sections of wall to allow air through. And there was a big corn cob!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Oct 2021)

Day 746, Tuesday, September 28, 2021, Pelaya to San Martín, 83 km Total KM 12431
Min meters 57, Max Meters 282
Total Climb 441 Total Descent 409
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 30

Feck me these roads are straight!

Grumpy. That's the word that best described my mood this morning. I've no idea why.
I woke up about 4:30, tired, but heard the rain bucketing down and thought that there was no point in getting up.

When the rain stopped I got up and slowly got organised. Thankfully, I'm in Colombia and knew what I needed so I rolled a couple of hundred meters down the road and had a little breakfast and coffee from the same lady as yesterday. She couldn't quite figure out that I didn't really know where I was headed to today!
I have to say that the "street coffee" here is fantastic! I like to start the day with a café con leche (coffee with milk), normally more milk than coffee. The coffee is already sweetened.
Alternatively, a café tinto is a black, sweetened coffee. Rich and delicious!

*Heading off. What a great road and cloudy mountains - my favourite!*



​Then it was back on the road, out of town easily enough and straight on to a lovely wide shoulder that stayed for most of the day.

The sky was cloudy, some very dark clouds in some places but it was refreshingly cool even though I was late starting off by recent standards. It's great to just power along and I find the roads very relaxing. Yesterday with all the chopping and changing between two and four lanes I regularly forgot if I was on a one or two way road - it made no difference to me!

Soon enough I spied a familiar shape in front of me - the old chap in the wheelchair trike. I was delighted. I'd been able to visit a bank so I pulled up beside him and passed on that money I got in Honduras with a bit of interest. 

*An interesting old bridge. The other lanes had a more modern one*



​Generally flat, there were a few rolling hills to keep me honest. I knew there'd be a bit of climbing later. I also passed quite a few hotels, usually attached to a petrol station, presumably for truckers. 

I pulled in for coffee after about 10 kms and while sitting down was approached by a guy looking for money. Demanding money would probably be more accurate. 
This is quite common here and I'm surprised by the expectation. It seems as if I'm seen as a foreigner so money is demanded. Yesterday, having my coffee a kid came up munching on a chicken leg and just said "limonada". Insistently. When I refused he returned to his family sitting at the table behind me.
Unfortunately for this guy I only had enough small money to pay for my coffee. Then he wanted a cigarette so, having sympathy for a smoker, I went over to my bike, took out the packet, slipped one to stand out above the others and offered it to him. He tried to grab them all which really bugged me. I handed him one, offered a light but that was declined as he opened his own pack and put it with his own!
When I sat back down he started shouting at me! 

*A little rio*



​Setting off again I realised that I'd underestimated the strength of my (two) coffees and my heart was going loopy! I pulled in at a crash barrier for a few minutes and was on high alert as a scooter slowed down as it approached. 
No need to panic, just a girl wanting a chat and to offer me some fruit! 

I passed a bridge where Wilgar had graffitied his love for Irene. On one wall was "Irene y Wilgar" and on the other "Te amo Irene", with the date 21/03. I was amused at the idea of dating it, almost like a "best before" or "use by".

*See what I mean about straight roads?*



​There are a lot of animal warning signs from snakes to foxes to ant eaters to monkeys and occasionally cows! I'm not sure if the signs are geographically significant or if they mix them up just to keep people interested.

The scenery, like other days is interesting without being spectacular. It's a good thing too because the roads are very, very straight. On the flat I can power along even into a headwind and the road is so comfortable that I can relax and enjoy the views on offer. In fact, for most of today the traffic was lighter than Sunday!

*Not spectacular but interesting*



​After about 30km the road became lumpy and I had to face into a 125 meter climb. The worst thing about it was that with the straight roads it was well telegraphed in advance. To add to it, several rockfalls filled the shoulder forcing me to take the lane. The first time I signalled I nearly fell off the bike when the truck obediently moved over for me!
I'm not in Panamá any more!

Near the top there was a bigger rockfall with a crew working to clean it up. With a long line of trucks coming up behind I pulled in rather than take the single lane. A young woman who seemed to be supervising the work was straight over for a chat and to get a photo with the crazy Irishman.

*Interesting but not spectacular*



​Setting off again I had a downhill run to Aguachica my destination for the day. There was a long entrance to the town and stopping at the first food place I saw I was turned away. No food at the inn! When I arrived in the town proper I pulled across the road for a coffee and a snack and contemplated. 
There was a vibe. I can't really explain better than that. I didn't feel the place. I decided to keep on rolling even though the sky was looking a tad ominous. Google & Osmand showed a fair few trucker hotels and a small town 40km further. 

*I'm really enjoying all these rivers. Normally lots of space to pull in I can spend a bit of time with the view and the river noise*



​I set off - completely forgetting that I had crossed the road - in the wrong direction!
That's why I use Gizmo!
(It also meant that the sky now in front of me was a lot less threatening than the sky behind me!)
Seriously, it's well known that I am very navigationally challenged! For anyone reading this who is similarly afflicted and fearful of touring, if I can do it, anyone can!

I turned around and headed off in the right direction!
Pretty much immediately I started hearing a strange, non rhythmic noise, something light and kind of tinny. Given the amount of crap on the road I thought that perhaps something was caught in the mudguard. On and off it was there. I couldn't be quite sure where it was coming from and sometimes I thought I could feel it. 
I stopped and did a visual check to make sure nothing was broken or hanging where it shouldn't. I found nothing. I continued on. Still there. Coming and going, independent of the pedals. 
Spying a filling station I pulled in and started removing panniers.
Aha! Either I goofed this morning (most likely) or one of the straps attaching my rackbag to my pannier had come undone. That swinging could easily account for the noise.
Triumphantly, I loaded up and set off. 
Nope! Still there.
I unloaded, upended the bike and spun the back wheel. The hub. Again.

Now, I had the bike serviced in Cartagena and had asked for the rear hub to be serviced as well, even after the greasing in Costa Rica. 
I've had to:
Remove the WD40 that was sprayed on the bike and the wheels (the feckin' wheels!!)
Retune the gears and I think the chain is too long.
They broke the gear indicator for my rear gears and my back brake has been feeling very strange.
If there's something up with the hub, the Lord knows what they have done.

Nothing for it but to continue on.

*There's a tremendous variety of vegetation in just one shot!*



​It was pretty much flat and hot for the rest of the way. I turned off for the small town of San Martín and was immediately impressed with the colourful and bright entrance and noticed a distinct lack of crazy!
I saw a place recommended on iOverlander but it was full! They suggested a place around the corner, the cheapest yet in Colombia, and I got checked in. 
First, I needed a coffee and finding a bakery I was made most welcome and savoured a café con leche and a mini homemade swiss roll.
On my way back to the hotel I spied a cheerful chap selling plastic cups of fresh pineapple! Yes please! Did I want salt, pepper and lemon juice? Hmmmmm. Ok?
Feckin' delicious!

*The pleasing and bright approach to San Martín*



​Then off to the only bike shop in town.
It was a young fella, early twenties who listened to me and more importantly looked at the bike (the word for hub is different in Colombia) and then set to work with a focus and confidence that was incredibly reassuring. 
The whole hub was taken apart, bearings discarded, degreased, blown dry then painstakingly put back together. 
Now, I'm no hub expert but it had a whole lot less grease than it had in Costa Rica where the chap smiled as he thumbed it in.
When the time came to pay he didn't want to charge me - it was from his heart, he said, his contribution to my journey.
I couldn't accept that so when pushed, he offered up a fee of 5000 pesos, a tad over €1! I gave him 20K and still think it was cheap.
I walked in, his other work was dropped and my problem was sorted. How about that for service?
If you're ever in San Martín, Bike Fish is the unusual name for an enthusiastic mechanic.

*The Birdhouse in the park. I thought it was fab!*



​Happy as Larry, I dropped the bike back to my room and hit the little Plaza. Small, neat, with a small playground in front of a simple church I was most impressed with a huge and slightly wobbly looking birdhouse in a tree! Then a wander around the little town, neater and less crazy than others, found a little place with a smiley waitress and enjoyed a simple dinner.
I'm telling you, small town Colombia is where it's at! 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Oct 2021)

Day 747, Wednesday, September 29, 2021, San Martín to San Alberto, 32 km Total KM 12463
Min meters 128, Max Meters 165
Total Climb 70 Total Descent 63
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 29

A Colombian Figary!

What with my room being the cheapest so far there were a few things to take into account; 
Firstly I had only a ceiling fan for cooling. The airco normally present, if feeble, has been pleasant even for a non-fan () like me recently.
Secondly, there was no shower - or to be specific, there was a shower but without water. Instead, a big barrel of water for a "bucket wash". Refreshing!
With only the fan and no external air it was a warm night and a fitful sleep. 

Up and out, I stopped for my now regular coffee and (this morning) empañada. There's a long line of similar stands, usually manned by women. I can't for the life of me figure out how people choose one over the other. Also, are they ferocious competitors or gently cooperative?

*Getting back on the road. I bounced out of the little town in a mass of motorbikes and rejoined the highway. It's not often we get the perfect vista to signify a whole new day on the road. It may be too straight and a bit of a hill but I still want to know what's down there*



​The big, big difference about San Martín and what gives it its relaxing vibe is that the main road bypasses the town. I had no problem crossing the road as a result! Believe it or not, side of the road is an important factor for choosing a place to eat or stay.

I set off through the usual motley collection of motorbikes and soon was back on the road, four lanes, split, with a lovely wide shoulder. Cycling bliss! 

*The early morning views are improving!



*​I'd a bit of a quandry about destination today. In a little while the highway is going to split - the new one will keep the wide shoulder and zip along to Bogotá while the old road runs into the mountains. Without a shoulder. I'm planning on taking the old road because it will be cooler and goes to more interesting places. I'm happy enough with what I've seen of the traffic that a lack of a shoulder won't be too much of an issue.
It's the climbing that bothers me, especially with my sensitive ass. In the heat. And the doubt about accommodation availability.
I think I'll be wise to balance distance, climbing and time in the saddle for a few days. 

*This view is just one of the things down the road! *



​But enough of that for now. I put plans and logistics out of my head and enjoyed the early morning road.
It was quiet, smooth and very, very straight with rolling hills to keep me honest.
To my left, magic mountains, a silvery grey colour loomed through clouds and a heat haze. Unfortunately, my left was east so that the sun messes with photos. A bit too warm to be mysterious, they were nonetheless interesting and ever changing as I flew along the road.

It's strange but these straight roads aren't bothering me at all. There's a headwind too which should have me craving a bend but I'm happy enough to roll along. 
Today, my thoughts were occupied with my cheapy, red plastic mirror. I had spent quite a considerable amount of time researching mirrors and trying to determine what would work best. 
Something too big was liable to attract attention, too small would be useless. It would need to be robust and ideally easily removed. Lots of research, weighing, balancing in an effort to get everything just right.
Now I'm using the only one I could find on the Costa Rica / Panama border and it works just fine! 

*I am really enjoying the rivers! If you look at a reasonably detailed map of this area you'll see lots and lots of thin blue lines. *



​I took the slight detour through Libano, a small village and stopped for a bag of water. Lots and lots of things are in bags that we would not expect. Water. Milk. Cheese. Yoghurt! 
The bags of water are very cheap (but everything is cheaper in the countryside) but the water tastes a bit plasticy. Also, it can be tricky to fill a bottle from them.

On again and after about 30km I came to the split in the highway. Hmmmmm. I would have expected most of the traffic to take the main road, but the split was about even. Mind you, traffic was light.

*Magical mountains melding into each other and the sky. Since México I've been captivated by these and they're still thrilling to me. It must be all those years living in NL!*



​A little after I came to San Alberto, a little town but busy. I pulled into a bakery for a coffee and a snack and watched the chaos as truck after truck weaved down the main road that was the main street in this little town. Realising I wasn't far from the Plaza when I returned to the bike I took the short detour.

My kind of Plaza! 
Quite a few trees for shade, paths weaved through the raised beds that were pleasingly full of weeds. Scattered along the shady edge were a few vendors, one selling orange juice. Yes please!
A few kids were playing with a big, black, bouncing Labrador, screaming when he came too close. I've no idea if he belonged to them or not but he seemed to be enjoying the chasing game.
Across the road a pleasant church and elsewhere in the park people sitting in the shade, solo or in little groups. 
If I strained I could hear the chaos on the road not too far away so I stopped straining. 
All the activity is elsewhere, either on the main road or two or three principal streets off it. Here is calm and peaceful.

*My kind of Plaza! Not too many seats but lots of low walls for sitting on. A decent number of tallish trees for shade. And delightfully calm *



​So, I decided to take a figary and stop for the day with 30 odd km on the clock. It's a nice place, there's accommodation, the sun is out and it is hot, hot, hot and I'm unsure of accommodation further for about another 30km. Besides, my ass isn't going to complain.

I checked out one hotel on the Plaza itself and was offered a rate on the pricey end but unusually for me I didn't like the vibe so passed. I tried a hotel mentioned in iOverlander but no-one was there so took a wander. I found a cheap room in a courtyard filled with old women watching soaps ..... And a monkey! 
It's nothing to write home about, another bucket wash but it's cheap! 

*The relatively simple Church. Tall spires like this have been relatively uncommon so far making my searching out of Plazas a tad more difficult



*​I checked in washed, tended my derrière and went awandering.

A slow coffee at the Plaza confirmed that as pleasant as it is, it's like others and not very busy. When the heavens opened and the rain poured I was glad I wasn't on the road!

There really are a lot of motorbikes here. I mean a lot! 
They carry everything - earlier two guys passed me on a motorbike with a flatscreen tv between them!
Yesterday a man rode past me cradling a baby in one arm - can you ride a motorbike one handed?

I went back to my room for a little while and redid the back brake cable. Whatever they did it's not feeling good and my confidence has dropped to zero. Job done I went wandering again.
I've been getting messages from my phone company that I have to register the unit or it will be blocked. The system refuses to recognise my passport (of course!) so I found a shop and a young woman fixed it, I believe.

*The Plaza by night with the church on the opposite side*



​I chose the worst possible location to eat for the best possible reason - at a chicken restaurant along and a little below the main road. I wanted to see the action!
Chaos. Noise. Dust. More chaos! 
It was an interesting experience.
The patience of the truck drivers is phenomenal! People think nothing of pulling up for a chat - on a two lane road that's a jam! A shop getting a delivery? That's just tough on anyone behind them!
The shops have loads of merchandise on the paths so pedestrians walk on the road too. 
Then there's the aforementioned motorbikes not to mention tuk tuks and cyclists who seem to choose a side of the road as they see fit as opposed to troublesome concepts like rules.
And dogs! Wandering over and back as if traffic is as unsubstantial as a mirage.
On such a narrow road when two trucks meet (and a lot of the traffic is truck) there is little they can do except squeeze by. Throw in all the other road users and dogs it must be incredibly stressful. 
But fascinating to observe!
However, sitting where I was it was open season for every scrounger looking for money. 

*Another river. Great places to stop, sit and think about where I am. *




​These towns are interesting, chaotic and busy, modern buildings and ones close to hovel status. Decent street surfaces and just mud. 
There are so many shops the same whether it be motorbikes or cellphones, hardware or speakers, usually located together in a bunch. Some shops just make no sense, half empty a few bags of crisps a few boxes of soft drinks (not refrigerated) and not much else. 
Some shops are just a car. A few guys were doing a roaring trade selling plucked, but whole, chickens out of the boot of an estate car. On the roof sixpacks of some local softdrink. 

There have been no shortage of hotels in the last few towns and San Alberto is no different ranging from the cheapest of the cheap to far more elegant with swimming pools. I'm assuming the commercial traveller on the road from town to town is the mainstay of business.
Banks, like everywhere else I have been are busy with queues. ATMs normally have a queue too, although here it's normal for each machine to have its own private cubicle.

*The rather unusual view I chose for my dinner. Sitting within exhaust distance of passing traffic is probably not top of places to eat but it's interesting watching the interactions*



​Once darkness had fallen and I'd seen all there was to see I returned to my room and got ready for an early departure. 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Oct 2021)

Day 748, Thursday, September 30, 2021, San Alberto to El Playon, 51 km Total KM 12514
Min meters 129, Max Meters 772
Total Climb 1038 Total Descent 734
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

I'm out of hill practice!

Continuing the theme of being awoken by nasty movie creatures this morning's rude awakening was by King Kong!
A ferocious crash of lightning had me leaping out of bed at about 3:30 am. It was really very startling! The noise continued with a downpour that lasted so long I was pretty sure I was going to be stuck here another day. About 9:30 it stopped, or at least lightened, so I went out to investigate. A light drizzle and a troubling sky was all around but it was hard to imagine much more rain could fall. 

I went back to my room, packed up, rolled out and promptly stopped for coffee. Once caffeinated I set off. 
The road was surprisingly quiet and the views were of clouds hugging mountains. There was a wonderful freshness to the world after all the rain. Birds were chattering when there were no trucks to drown them out. I passed a surging river, an orange brown colour from all the rainwater it was now carrying.

*A wet morning it was, a gloomy day it became but there's something about mountains in clouds that speak to me



*​Traffic, as I'm coming to expect here, was very respectful which was very welcome on a road with no shoulder. There was a rain gulley to my side which varied in angle. At times it was so flat I could use it like a shoulder, at others so steep it would kibosh me. I learned a valuable lesson early on as I pulled in to take a photo and the bike just slid away from me. Under tree cover it was as slippery as ice. No harm done I continued on.

*After the fall*



​A short steep climb was my introduction to some proper climbing again and even though the temperature was cooler than previous days the humidity had me pumping sweat and losing energy. I despaired when I lost all the height gained!

*One of today's rios surging under me



*​After about 20km I came to the small town of La Esperanza on the bottom of a big climb. I pulled in for a cold drink and had a pleasant chat with the lady behind the counter. She kept her eyes on two small children playing on the floor.
Sitting outside I noticed that my new shorts were dripping. Standing up, my sweat had travelled down the legs and could be wrung out!
I considered calling it a day there and then but figured 20km wasn't long enough and I didn't fancy facing into a long climb first thing in the morning. 
As I was leaving, the little girl half carried half dragged her little brother, a toddler, so that he could give me a little bar of sweet stuff. How sweet!

*When the road was busy it was busy! Under those trees the rain gulley would be lethally slippy. Safer to hang back. When the traffic was gone? Bliss! The birds sang to me!



*​I set off up and got a kicking. Not so much the climb itself, more the combination of humidity and climbing. Typically it was steep and sometimes up to 12%. The road quickly became a series of sharp turns that were a bit tricky when there was traffic. The traffic tended to come in batches on both sides. Basically, everything tended to get backed up behind a slow moving truck. When it passed the road could be pleasantly quiet. I took to stopping when these long lines were passing for safety's sake and a breather was welcome too!
For the really twisty turny bits I preferred to walk for safety's sake. 
The climb peaked at about 450 meters and there was another descent to be followed by another climb up to about 750 meters.

*I moan and whinge and swear my way up hills...... But the views always, always charm me*



​I was really feeling it now and was also conscious of the time and daylight. I didn't want to get caught out in the dark.
That's when I met Pedro, pulling up beside me on his motorbike. We chatted as we moved along and spying a restaurant with rooms I indicated I was going to stop. The chat continued on the side of the road and then moved over to the restaurant. I asked about a room to be told (after a discussion) that there was no room at the inn. I'm not sure that they just didn't like the look of me.
That changed things as there were no more options until at least the top. I said my goodbyes to Pedro and set back off immediately into the climbing. 

*And I used to think that Ireland was green!*



​Slightly less steep it was also far more rewarding. I followed a violent river crashing over rocks for a while then made my way upwards through a spectacular valley. I rested often and enjoyed the views but was taking on a lot of water to replace what I was losing. 
I was happy enough at my progress and didn't feel any pressure even though the sun was sinking lower.

*When there were no trucks labouring up or down the hill I could hear the river below!*



​I reached the top and felt great! Seeing the hospedaje (basic hotel) at the top I had second thoughts. There was a little town about 10km along. It would have more options and the road was either flat or gently downhill.

*It's hard not to be impressed. 



*​Of I went laughing at myself. One moment all my focus was on getting to the top, the next I was going another 10km. It was great to be pedalling and making swift progress again. The countryside was very pleasant but I wasn't stopping for photos. I even started to feel a bit cool and saw that it was (only!) 24C!

*Up high there is no shortage of vistas!*



​I arrived into the little town of El Playon as the sun was disappearing behind the hills and cycled through the chaos and the noise that is so typical. I passed signs for hotels in the noiseiest parts and near the far side of town I spied a hotel sign and pulled in. Immediately a man was over for a chat struggling to believe that I had cycled as far as I had. In fairness to the chap I'm pretty sure I looked a wreck!
Explaining my need for a room he called out a young woman who quoted 25k, then offered another at 20k. Apparently the difference is proximity to the street (and noise). Noise doesn't bother me! 
She seemed captivated by the hair on my arms, bleached blonde by the sun against arms that are tanned a little but pale in comparison to the locals.
My room is new, clean and compact and it has a working shower! Yaaay! 

After a shower the restaurant across the road hit the spot although what I thought was going to be grilled beef turned out to be liver. Very tasty!

*There wasn't much to El Playon and with my lateish arrival, need for a shower and food I never explored anywhere beyond the road through town. I don't think I missed anything that compares to this*




​Exhausted and later than usual I took to my bed. Watching the news before sleep I saw a report from Barranquila (I cycled around it on the way to Ciénega) of severe flooding. They showed video clips of cars being washed away! Once again, I seem to be missing the worst of the weather.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Oct 2021)

Day 749, Friday, October 01, 2021, El Playon to Rionegro, 24 km Total KM 12538
Min meters 443, Max Meters 801
Total Climb 574 Total Descent 360
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 29

Jeez! It's October already!

There was noise last night, both from the trucks rolling by through the darkness and the restaurant across the road that was pumping music out until the early hours. Oh! And rain! Lots of heavy rain!
None of the above stopped me sleeping though!

Because I was tired and had options today I never bothered setting an alarm. My body would wake up when it was ready. It was after 6 when my eyes opened and I still felt tired. I got up and wandered down the road in search of a coffee and even found some breakfast. Colombian eggs aren't as much fun as Mexican ones!

Fueled and caffeinated I returned to my room, packed up and returned my key. The same young woman was there and this morning my legs were the focus of her obsession! Maybe I've missed an opportunity here!

*8am bang on the button. I'm up, breakfasted, had a pretty young thing flirting with me, am back on the road and this is my view! Feck me but I'm just so damn lucky!*



​I set off into bright sunshine, hoping that the shade would be my saviour and it pretty much was. The same narrow and twisty road as yesterday with lots of tree cover. It didn't take long for the climbing to start. It was grand for a while but then the grades went into double figures. There were less twists and turns than yesterday so I could keep going, stopping only for heavy traffic. Until near the end. Then I got off and pushed.
The worst thing about this climbing is that it was all for nothing - I'd drop the height and have to gain it all over again! And again!

*A surging river flowing to where? Wouldn't it be fun to hop in a canoe and see what's around that bend?



*​In fairness, it was a very pleasant road. Traffic as respectful as always, decent views and even a few yappy dogs to liven things up! Sometimes I could hear the river below rushing past me, at other times the sound of smaller rivers toppling down to join it. Waterfalls were common, often hidden behind the flora.

I stopped for a cold drink after the top then sailed down to start the process all over again. I stopped before the climbing for a juice and couple of empañadas.

*The rio down there is a bit smaller!*



​I'm seriously out of practice for this climbing! At least there was lots of shade and regular crash barriers to stop at. I don't know how many different ways there are to describe the amount of sweating taking place but at one stage, pulled in as two convoys were passing in both directions, one hand on the handlebars the other on the saddle there was a drip drip drip of water from my wrist. Not a drip.........drip...........drip a dripdripdrip! Not surprisingly I was working through my water!

Again, near the top I ran out of puff and walked the last bit. Just over the top I pulled in again at a little shop with a barking dog. He was more afraid than aggressive and after I sat down came over to make friends.

*Those yellow trees are very eye-catching. There'll often be one, solo, amongst a forest of green ones. *



​I'd a decision to make now. I was facing into another downhill and after that another climb regaining all the height I was about to lose. Girón was one of my destinations today, a recommendation of my Colombian friend. But it had another couple of climbs after this one. Another small town at the bottom of this hill would be the last chance for accommodation for a while. I'll see what I feel at the bottom.

*The greatest bike in the world? 25 years old, 21 speed. I can't say but he's a great companion*



​Descending was fun! I learned yesterday to let the slow trucks away before beginning otherwise I'll get stuck behind them. Sweeping down not being bothered by the sun because of the wind was fabulous and so, so different to struggling up! My descent was a lot shallower and longer than the ascent.

*Another yellow tree!*



​Arriving at Rio Negro I pulled off the main road. Whoah! This is a hilly town! With narrow streets! I followed my nose then a steeple and found the Plaza, pleasant but bare although the trees on the perimeter offered shade. I'd difficulty locating a coffee but found one and sat and savoured.
Jesús, a juice vendor from Venezuela was straight over for a chat. He says he's seen me in YouTube (but I doubt it! Maybe all us white folk look the same ). All questions and chat it was a pleasant, if tiring introduction to Rionegro. He told me of a little hotel just down the road from the Plaza so I decided I'd stay. Girón will still be there tomorrow.

*I might be melting and if I didn't have lots of water have the feeling that I'd crisp up and collapse in a pile of dust but the country is so lush and green*



​I got checked in, a little room on the third floor with a fan but decent internet and a big friendly dog too. My bike is downstairs in a workshop.
A cold, cold shower (mountain water, I reckon) and I set off to explore.
The town barely touches two biggish roads so there are no trucks just lots of motorbikes and tuktuks.
It's by no means big but it is bustling with all the types of stores I'm used to seeing. I'm guessing that this isn't a tourist town as people keep looking at me - more curious than intimidating.

*Rionegro. Narrow, steep streets and hills everywhere!*



​I had a very pleasant wandering. The place isn't big, but it is steep. Wandering is still a workout.
Sitting in the Plaza having another coffee a kid came over looking for money for food. I understood the intent but not the words and repeatedly told him that he should speak slower, that I was only learning Spanish and couldn't understand him. Eventually he got the hint and I gave him some money. Then, interestingly, he asked if I was really cycling around Colombia! The bike was nowhere around!
I had a similar experience in a little bakery/coffee shop. While waiting, a man at a table asked me the same!
I'd showered and changed my clothes but I clearly look different and I guess in a small town word travels fast!

*The church and the little Plaza in front of it. It is a great feeling to wander off the road into a little town like this, give it a few minutes and think "yep, this feels like home". *



​There's an Avacado park here along the river but unfortunately closed. I traipsed around enjoying the views the height offered me. There's a kind of viewing platform over steps that lead down to the main road and below two guys were busy making one of those "step pictures" that so captivated me in México. They're not painting but using tiles. Slow work! I was going to go down to them and ask them how they do it but poor Jesús got there before me and a huge dog, hidden from view, went for him. I passed.

*It might not look like much but wandering around, seeing and feeling a place with no rush is very rewarding*​





As the sun was going down the Plaza came to life as hundreds and hundreds of birds returned to the trees chirping and discussing the day's gossip. No doubt some of it is about the guy cycling around Colombia! Noisy, and not particularly melodious it's still an attractive sound and another layer of life in a place that is already very lively.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Oct 2021)

Day 750, Saturday, October 02, 2021, Rionegro to Girón, 29km Total KM 12567
Min meters 575, Max Meters 851
Total Climb 517 Total Descent 471
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 44 Ave Temp 33

A day of two halves! And a happy ending!

Getting back to my little hospedaje yesterday evening at about 8pm there was no one home! A business card stuck on the door had a number so I called that. Whoever answered was clearly in a pub or at a party. I couldn't understand a word but a few minutes later a happy man showed up to let me in.

Maybe it was the small room (or all the coffee I'd had in the afternoon - the coffee is soooooooo good!) but I had problems falling asleep. 

*For the start of the day it's not too bad!



*​I was up and about for 7 am, late for but I was in no rush. I retrieved my bike after waking up my hosts and packed up on the street - no easy thing on sloping streets. Then down a big hill to the main road and an empanada. The coffee was instant so I passed! I was shocked!

Back in Cartagena I changed my screen protector on the phone. This one is better able to deal with sweaty fingers but is darker. Every now and then it scares the bejaysus out of me by making the screen go dark. The phone is set to adjust screen brightness automatically. I spent about 10 minutes trying to find the settings by memory. I finally got it sorted then had to check what else I had inadvertently changed!

*There's something about the early morning in the mountains.....*



​Then it was on to a pleasantly familiar two laner with minimum traffic. What a lucky fecker I am!
I had a lumpy 5km despairing on every descent because every meter lost would need to be regained but the views were great, early morning sun casting a gold sheen on everything.

Then it was a 3km +/-300 meter climb! 

*Indulge me.......



*​I have no idea why I enjoyed it so much. It was a bloody hard slog but the sun was beaming making everything shimmer and shine - there's wonderful contrasts between the blues of the sky, the whites of the clouds and the unbelievable numbers of greens of the landscape.
It varied as I climbed, views becoming closer or changing after a sharp bend. Boring it certainly wasn't!
Traffic, when present was invariably respectful, often encouraging and never a threat. There's a lot to be said for feeling safe.

*The sun working its magic..... I liked the teeny tiny puff of cloud*



​A few scattered settlements provided a few yappy dogs, but no more. Curious more than anything the loose ones gave me someone to talk to as I sweated uphill.
I passed a hoarse cockerel. At first I had no idea what the sound was - a dog, or perhaps an old wolf howling? And the I spotted the poor chap on the side of the road. Even with no voice he kept giving his all.
It helps too, I'm sure that today is relatively short and that I have an actual destination too. Because it's a bit touristy and it's the weekend I booked an interesting looking place for two nights. There's no pressure on me at all today. 
I know nothing about Girón other than it has been recommended to me. 

*There's an intensity to the colours that screams "life"*



​I was having one problem though and that was with the gears on the bike. The indexing had been out on the front but yesterday and today I couldn't use the granny gear - the chain kept dropping back. Since my indicator is broken after the service and no longer "indicates" it took me a while to realise I wasn't using the granny gear. Then when I tried to use it I just ground to a halt.

*A bloody tough road but when I had it to myself....... A little bit of heaven*



​Coming off the bike the other day was a timely reminder to not relax too much. I had another today - a motorbike went over on its side in front of a bus. I first became aware when a bus just ahead of me suddenly pulled out into the other lane. I pulled up, dropped Roccado in the ditch and went to help. He seemed OK, the bike seemed OK, his visor was hanging off his helmet and he seemed a bit shook. I helped him lift the bike up and expecting him to take a breather was a bit shocked when the threw his leg over. Off he went. 

*I moan and I groan, whinge and complain, swear and curse going up hills..... But I keep on turning into the mountains and I have no idea why *



​At the top I pulled into a restaurant for a coffee (real coffee!) and empanada. It was here, sitting in the welcome shade that I noticed that the music of late has changed again. Gone is the Carribbean influence in terms of beat and instrumentation and the guitars and accordions are back! My kind of music!

*A few people had set fires below me, for what I have no idea.*



​The sweep down was gentle fun, the road alternating between four lanes and two. Once things levelled out I was in urban territory and approaching the city of Bucaramanga with all that means for a cyclist - more broken surfaces, a variable shoulder and slightly more aggressive traffic.
This was my second climb of the day but generally in a shoulder and distracted by everything it was over before I knew it.

My route took me away from the city, thankfully, and on to a rather dull and dreary one going steadily uphill, albeit more gentle than previously.

*Uh oh! That's a big looking city!



*​I seemed to go from dusty highway to narrow city streets in a flash and headed for my hostal (more like a B&B). 

Slightly confused and stopped on the street a very elegant lady engaged me in conversation asking if I was alright. Explaining that I was just checking my bearings I may have missed another opportunity!

Too early to check in I rang the bell anyway and was admitted. The boss wasn't around but I could leave my stuff and grab a coffee. So I did! 

Awandering I went.
More by accident than design I'm only a couple of hundred meters downhill from the Plaza in the old town. Despite the heat a coffee was had sitting in the shade and soaking up the atmosphere. There's a lot to soak. 
After about an hour I went back, was warmly greeted by my hosts, a very friendly Colombian/French couple with a toddler. 
Staying an extra day is not going to be a mistake!

*Today's rio (there were quite a few!) surging along*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Oct 2021)

Day 751/752, Sunday/Monday, October 03/04 2021 Girón

I have an old college friend and he would hate Girón! He has an extreme aversion to pigeons, sees them as flying rats and can have quite the reaction to a pigeon in close proximity. Sitting in the little Plaza he'd have conniptions because the pigeons fly low and care not a whit about people! But not sitting in the Plaza would be a loss. A major loss.

*As well as pigeons there was no shortage of vultures like this guy hanging around. Not in the Plaza but near to the (food) market area they were hanging around what seemed to be an unofficial dumoing spot*



​The old town of Girón is charming. Cobbled streets, narrow and steep between low, white buildings that are obviously under some kind of a protection or preservation system?. The most obtrusive thing to be seen on the buildings are hanging baskets of colourful flowers - signs are standard and flush with the walls or doors. The same phone companies that scream their presence elsewhere whisper it here, their brightly coloured branding only on the inside.
Roofs are teracotta tiles and above the roof, depending on orientation there's a bright blue sky, green mountains or a handful of ugly tower-blocks. Sometimes you'll see them all in one vista - the old world, the uglier newer world and the Natural world.
The mountains, especially are very attractive. Some are wild, uninhabited, unfarmed, vividly close, others have habitation spreading upwards. They stretch almost the whole way around. Occasionally, there's nothing except some sign of human habitation at the very top.

*A side street in the old town. Cobbled, narrow and steep! When I tried to ride the bike on these streets I soon wished I hadn't!*




​The feckin' little yellow cabs are back displaying all the traits of feckin' little yellow cabs here - loud, impatient, aggressive. Other than these buzzing bothersome buzzards the town is relatively hassle free.
Stepping out of the cocoon of the old town there is the craziness I'm used to in towns in the Latin world. I know I keep harping on and on about it but there is a life, a vitality in these places that surges like a lot of the rivers the past few days. Dropping into it and being carried along is invigorating!
I passed a clothes shop with mannequins outside. I'd passed the "male" side and passing the "female" side stopped and did a double take - one of the mannequins was a young woman! Sure enough, looking back a real man was modelling fashion beside a mannequin!

*A higgledy-piggledy view of a higgledy-piggledy town. The charming white houses and terracotta tiled roofs, the steep streets, mountains in the distance, an ugly tower block, plants and cables running everywhere.*



​But back to the Plaza.......
Depending on perspective and persuasion the focal point is either the church or the Plaza itself.
The church is pleasingly simple, all in white. It's big doors remain closed. People queue outside in roped lines for early mass, the previous massgoers exiting through a gate on one side as the next batch wait to enter on the other. Judging by the numbers, the fashions and the heights of folk there's a lot of people of all ages wanting to go to 8 am Mass.
One young man in a black sleeveless top with gym toned arm muscles carried a holy book (not a bible) and the words printed on his top included love, respect and empathy. It's not often I'll see a young person so clearly demonstrating their faith. Mind you, when push comes to shove the Catholic Church as an organisation is hardly a world leader in empathy and respect.

*This car has been specially modified for the sale of bananas*



​At that hour, there's a few coffee vendors who do a brisk trade as the even earlier massgoers exit. For a few minutes the Plaza is full of people sipping coffee heading off in a multitude of directions. I've always thought that one of the great opportunities of a regular religious service is the social aspect - a chance for people, especially those out of the loop, to meet and chat.

On one side of the Plaza there's a string of carts selling fruit and flavoured ice. At the corner an old tree provides lots of shade and this is where the taxi drivers gather, their yellow abominations lined up, harmless and quiet for once. Later, a few more stalls will set up selling orange juice, sweets, knick knacks and the usual entertainment for kids revolving around painting. A man sets up a tiny goal so that kids can practice their penalties.
The atmosphere is convivial, family oriented and very, very pleasant. It really comes to life later, after the worst of the day's heat has burned out.

The pigeons are the kings and queens of this Plaza. Disappearing when there is nothing for them they can appear at a moment's notice when a child opens a bag of seed. Flying low under the radar they descend from all directions, pulling up suddenly and landing deftly in a fluttering of wings somehow avoiding midair chaos to sorround the now screaming (with delight!) child. Neither people nor animals will disturb them and when all nutrition is gone, they'll strut like the rulers they are before flying off and awaitIng their next sortie.
If someone had told me a couple of years ago that I'd find the feeding of pigeons to be so interesting I'd have had questions about their sanity. Now I question my own!

*The oldtown skyline*



​There are no museums that I'm aware of so I spent a lot of time wandering, sitting, watching and being charmed.

I took a break on Sunday to have a good look at the bike.
The chain was about 6 or 8 links too long. On attempting to index the gears nothing was happening with the barrel adjuster - because the feckin' spring was gone! On opening up the trigger shifter it was packed with grease. I mean packed. I also found the little plastic leg that rendered the indicator useless.
It was a challenge not to go ballistic but I calmed myself down by focusing on the positives;
Firstly, I knew what was wrong and could fix it (for someone who couldn't fix a puncture a few years ago that's some progress!) and secondly, I was going to have another day in lovely Girón since I needed to visit a store and they're all closed on Sundays! An expensive spring!
There are far, far worse places to be stranded!

*Because of the uniformity of the old town there were few old doors..... But I did find some!*



​Lunch was had at one of a long line of open air restaurants serving meat and not a whole lot more. A solid structure contained the kitchen where everything was grilled, tables and chairs were spread out haphazardly, often pulled together to accommodate groups. This is a family place. Spotting a plate being prepared with chorizo, mocilla (blood sausage, what we in Ireland call black pudding) and potatoes I was hooked, sought out a table and ordered some. Delicious! The atmosphere was lovely. The place was full of families, sharing was common and even though beer was available there was no indication of excess. In fact, nowhere on Sunday did I see drunks like I have elsewhere. People drinking, for sure, but not to excess. It reminded me a lot of a typical German beerhall in terms of the relative simplicity of the surroundings, the basic, meat based food that is incredibly tasty and the lovely atmosphere.

*The church on the Plaza. That's the tail end of the queue for a mass on the right. Entry through a side door on the right, exit on the left.*​





Sunday evening and night was for more wandering. The new town was still hopping until late with most of the stores open, excluding the likes of hardware stores. The Old Town was hopping too - but in a very gentle way.
The Plaza was heaving. The fruit stalls supplemented with grills featuring different meats on skewers and chirizo. A family of six shows up and there's no room to sit in the plaza? No problem - a young fella has a stack of plastic stools and out they go on the path.

Sitting down munching on a tasty chorizo straight off the grill and sipping on a orange juice I was approached by a man with his own plastic glass looking for a drink. This is quite common here and is not the first time I've been approached. I've seen it done to other folk too. It's common in a restaurant, for example, for a family to share a large bottle of Coke and someone to request a drink.

*The "ice cream" Plaza, quiet in the heat of the day. In the evening it is packed with families and lovebirds *



​A Honduran singer does his stuff in a corner. He's got a small mixing desk, a microphone, a speaker and his phone for a backing track. It might be far from a professional setup but he's dressed to impress!
Patent leather shoes (no socks), black dress pants with gold embroidery and a black shirt with rhinestone stars glittering as he moves.
There's more entertainment too. Clowns are very popular in these parts using a microphone and speaker to interact with and mock the audience.
The kid's entertainments have expanded too and stay going long after night has fallen. Just like in CDMX there's a woman blowing bubbles to generate sales for the simplest of kid's toys.

*Another rooftop view*



​Another small Plaza has a few icecream stores. The place is full and the remains of a day's sales are everywhere - scooped out pineapples and other fruit that I do not know have been carefully stacked up beside the bins. Long after the sun is gone the plaza is filled with people of all ages savouring their fruit and icecream.

Paradoxically, Monday seemed quieter. I got the bike sorted early. Good Lord what a hames they made of it.
I also decided to lighten my load, somewhat. I left some of my tools that I don't think I'll be needing. There's a lot of mountains in my future.

Based on a suggestion of the French lady host I spent a bit of time looking at an off road route to the south. Her Colombian husband when he heard of my investigations just said "No". I was tending to agree with him as I'm heading into a dry area that will either be very, very hot (and empty of people) or very, very wet.
He has also planted the seed in me of visiting Bogotá!

*I'm back to visiting cemeteries!



*​I took a short ride to test out my bike repairs. Good God! I used to think Belgian cobbles were bad!! It's a wonder any children are born here such is the abuse nether regions get!

Based on my amiga's suggestion to visit Girón I'll be paying more respect to her other suggestions! It's a lovely little town, chaotic but relaxing, and quite welcoming.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Oct 2021)

Day 753, Tuesday, October 05, 2021, Girón to Pescadero, 49km Total KM 12616
Min meters 620, Max Meters 1304
Total Climb 763 Total Descent 831
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 29

A little bit of everything

If I'd looked a bit closer at the map I'd have realised what I was in for this morning. Heavy traffic and skirting a big city (Bucaramanga). As it was I'd been busy exploring options further south. Oh well, I wanted an adventure and there was no real avoiding it anyway.

Up, coffeed and leaving for 7amish I was a bit later than I wanted but it was a lovely comfortable place and hard to leave. Surprisingly cool, there were even a few raindrops for the first half an hour. Just a few.

*Planning is overrated! If I had looked properly this scene wouldn't have been such a surprise...... On the other hand there really weren't any alternatives! *



​Girón is a town of contrasts and this was demonstrated as I left. Bouncing through the deserted old town down to the chaos of the new. 
I thought things would settle down out of town but I had over 20km of heavy urban traffic and usually no shoulder.
In fairness, traffic was good and I generally had lots of room. It was loud, dusty and all uphill though. 

There were a lot of roadies out but only a teeny tiny minority recognised me in any way. I couldn't imagine cycling regularly along here for fun so maybe these are all the odd-ball roadies
The highlight though, was three Police on bicycles who pulled in ahead of me and as I passed two saluted me (hands to forehead) while the third took a photo!
Another was an oldtimer who slowly came up behind me then asked where I was from. On answering, he started laughing, not in a take the pish way more in an amazed way. Still laughing he congratulated me and wished me a good journey.

*Leaving Piedecuesta, four lanes reduced to two.... *



​It's funny how our minds work. Once again the annoying little yellow cabs caused me the most bother. Pulling in suddenly, stopping, starting then stopping again. Cutting across and passing too close for comfort. Yet, I still think cycling here is pretty safe.
I think it's the fact that they are easily recognised and separated from other traffic that I can have a very negative opinion of them with no "bleeding" to other drivers.

Approaching the town of Piedecuesta I pulled in to a little stall for a coffee, fresh oj and a delicious empanada. The couple running it were very, very pleasant and chatty. He asked me what we grow in Ireland - the first time anyone ever asked me that! 

After the town of Piedecuesta the dual carriageway reverted to a two laner. Uh oh, I thought but it was like the other days - the traffic seemed to die off outside the town and tended to travel in batches. Very manageable on the twisty, up-and-down road.

There was still a fair bit of climbing to do and then the Touring Gods threw a spanner in the works. Well, a spanner in the works for normal people, a gift for the likes of me!
Road works!
For about one km one lane was closed and traffic was controlled, only allowed past in batches. 
For me, this meant that after a batch of traffic my side was empty! I could go (or stop) as I pleased! 
Once past I pulled in, leaning the bike against a new concrete barrier and watched all the trucks labouring uphill past me. A man came over for a chat and couldn't resist trying to lift the bike! He was very pleasant but was in severe danger of getting in my bad books by constantly telling me how much climbing I had to do and how steep it was going to be. There was enough red in Osmand - I didn't need to hear it!

*As rest-stops go this wasn't a bad one! 



*​On the now quiet road I set off again. The only thing to watch out for were oncoming overtakers venturing onto my side.
Of most interest were the trees lining the road. They gave me lots of shade. After a few motorbikes passed me I looked for a likely spot to pull in and let the next batch of tail to tail traffic by. 
And so I ascended! 

*When it was quiet it was a blissful road imbued with magic from the trees*



​Just shy at the top I pulled in for a bit of lunch (so far here there's some kind of a village at the top and bottom of each hill). Then off again to crest and descend. 

Wow! 
Everything changed! I was soon barrelling down through a canyon getting ever drier. Trees gave way to cacti and scrub. Looming hills on both sides became cliffs. A wild river crashed and roared over rocks to my left, the road builders letting it lead them to weave through the hills. 

*Things are changing, the scenery is opening up *



​More roadworks just broke up the traffic more - on both sides. At times I had this natural wonder all to myself. I could have let go and flown down but the scenery was so stunning, so different I meandered down at a very sedate pace. 
I'd still pull in after the warning of the first few motorbikes and relax as a long line of traffic rumbled past.






As regards destination I was flexible. San Gil was the next target but that involved a whole lot of climbing. There were a few cheap hotels that I could use but services were going to be the issue. 

*Sweeping along with the river roaring in my ears, on an empty road..... This is what touring's all about!*




​As I cycled along really enjoying the scenery I decided to forego San Gil and pull up at a river crossing. Tomorrow I'd be straight into a big climb, better done in the cool.

*Now this is fun! *



​I pulled into a filling station with hotel and enquired about a room and decided to roll on down to the village at the river for a bit of life. There was a simple hotel but I was told it was full. Back up to the modern one just as rain started to fall.
Nothing special and with no wifi in my room I watched some tv. Venezuela has decided to bring forward Christmas to October. Three out of every four people live in extreme poverty. It is frightening to see what has become of Venezuela. Also interesting to see the compassionate attitude of the Colombians. 
Such were my thoughts as I drifted off to sleep.

*Maybe, just maybe a motorbike would be more fun...... But I was having a ball! I was not, absolutely not, thinking about tomorrow!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Day 754, Wednesday, October 06, 2021, Pescadero to San Gil, 56km Total KM 12672
Min meters 489, Max Meters 1899
Total Climb 1618 Total Descent 1086
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

The Chicamocha Canyon

I'm gutted.
I'm going to throw up some photos but none of them, not even the really good ones, are a fair and accurate depiction of the scenery today.
The Chicamocha canyon deserves better.

With a big day ahead of me I was up early. I used my water heater to boil some eggs and washed them down with coffee. So far as I knew there was going to be little option for refuelling until I'd climbed 1km up in the air.
Unfortunately, my morning abloutions resulted in cramping and a rather unpleasant stool. I'd had a minor version yesterday that I put down to eating a pineapple full of fruit (and ice cream the night before). Not an ideal way to start a big journey.

*The Río Umpala. I was an innocent, naïve guy on a bike when I crossed the river. I had no idea what was in store for me!*



​Dawn (and sunset) here happens fast. I was outside having my morning coffee in the dark. I returned to the room and started bringing my bags downstairs. In those few minutes daylight had arrived. It would be a while before I saw the sun directly though since there were big mountains in the way.

Setting off about 6am it was pleasantly cool and surprisingly busy. Just like in the towns I needed to cross the road and that took a while!
A little downhill and the toll booth had a tailback, modest in my direction long on the other.
I crossed the river, pulled in for some photos and started climbing. I was at an altitude of 489 meters and I'd have no break until I hit almost 1900!

It really didn't take long for me to realise that this was going to be one of those days - one of those special days!
To my right was a river and beside it mysterious mountains literally topped with clouds. To my left were mountains in the shade as the sun slowly worked its way up the sky behind them. All around me was traffic, but it hardly registered. Like yesterday it tended to come in batches, most of it on the other side and all of it perfectly happy with a cyclist on the road.
I didn't realise it then but I'd be following that river most of the day but while it meanderd I'd be soaring. Soaring in every sense of the word.

*I was going to be seeing views like this, from different angles and from an ever increasing altitude. Many, many times I thought that this is the road to bring someone to show them what bike touring is all about. Except they'd have to climb a kilometer and a half*



​The road was in pretty good nick and I had a wall or crash barriers to stop me plunging down to the river that was quickly sinking beneath me. Lots of places to stop! Despite appearing to be straight the road swept left and right creating bends.

After about 90 minutes and a series of switchbacks the river was now on the opposite side of the road leaving me with fewer options to stop but with cliffs towering over me. Small rockfalls made the edge of the road trickier but traffic was patient and considerate.

*A sweeping bend (not that I was doing much sweeping going uphill!) and clouds atop mountains. I could stop at will, and did often. *



​By now it had well sunk in that today was no normal day and plans went out the window. I was not going to rush this road! If it took two days so be it!

A number of roadies passed me with most ignoring me which I found to be very rude. Poor feckers are probably used to cycling this road - they probably don't even see it anymore.

As I gained height the road often swung right gifting me an incredible view of a big drop and mountains straight ahead. This isn't a road for those with a bit of vertigo!

*There's something about the contrast that speaks to me. *



​Progress was slow but on a road where slow was the best way. There was so much to see. I was constantly gaining height so the river was getting smaller and smaller. Each bend gave a different perspective and every now and then I'd round a bend to a whole new world. Slow, yes, dull, not at all.

As well as my earlier cramps my mouth felt dry and furry - like I had a hangover (chance would be a fine thing!). As the temperature rose I was sipping my water. But I was doing a lot of sipping.

*Caption? Beyond me.*



​Since the barriers were now on the other side of the road opportunities to rest on my side were limited. Spying a bit of a wall I pulled in and sat down. Not for long! Not for a nanosecond! Something was biting my ass! Instinctively I grabbed whatever was biting me to get several fingerfulls of thorns. I had sat myself down on some kind of a mini cactus. Using my left hand I carefully pulled the thorns out of my right hand stabbing my left hand in the process and then, there I was on the side of the road for all passing traffic to see gently probing my ass very tenderly with both hands and extracting more thorns.

Surprisingly, on one corner, there is a large shrine to Our Lady, Mary, the mother of Jesus. There are even parking spaces on the opposite side of the road! It made no sense to me at all. No-one lives around it, transport is needed to get there and the bend is very steep and sharp - in other words it doesn't need any distractions - it's dangerous enough as it is.

*There were some magical, and I mean magical bends!*



​I climbed and I ogled, ogled and climbed. At times I could see the road above me and sometimes twice! Those views are always more scary! As always on these types of roads it's impossible to judge if that truck groaning is coming up behind or ahead.

With water running low I came to a most amazing bend. The road swung right at what seemed a confluence of valleys. Impressive is not the word. Two guys had parked up as well and we got to talking. Asking one of them if they had passed a shop he said there was one close by - about 12km away! 12km uphill is not close by! As it happened, there was a little shop about 500 meters down the road! Watered up and bottles refilled I set off again.

*What can I possibly say?*



​The next stop (where I was hoping to eat) was a National Park. I saw the attached water park first and then the entrance to the park itself. Closed!
I spotted a railing over an epic valley and rolled over for a great photo.
Oh no I don't! A female soldier was straight over, her finger wagging to emphasise her "No, No, No".
I tried turning on the charm and asking for the photo but that resulted in more finger wagging!
Deflated I rejoined the road. I was pretty glad I had filled up my water earlier.

I'm feeling a pressure to put into words what the photos lack and I'm struggling.
The river (spoiled a bit, I thought, by all the sand extraction) captivated me by the way it weaved through the country. The mountains, so smooth with grooves running down were a new sight for me. Greener and warmer than the photos depict there was something strong, almost ferocious about them. Yet, clouds floating on top almost made them fantasy mountains and the occasional lush, fertile valleys between them suggested protection.
Light and angle meant that as I laboured along the view changed, subtlely for sure, but there was always a fresh perspective. The light in these parts can be incredibly bright. It's presence or absence changes a vista. Reflected sun also has similar effects. The peak of a mountain bathed in warm sunshine while the base is in shadow is a sight to behold. Watching that light move upwards, the sun literally bringing life to the mountain as the greys become green is like watching art come to life.

*An epic landscape let down badly by my photography skills (or lack of them!). These are among the best I have and do not convey the depth, the colour nor the sheer impressiveness. *



​The few kms after the National Park there were a few small restaurants, all closed. A little later I came to a shop with a couple of tables and pulled up. I needed food. Unfortunately, nothing except snacks and a lot of artesan sweets. I had some crisps, some coconut sweets and some dried sausages I'd picked up last night. Not the best but I needed fuel.
The views from here were fantastic, looking down on a village in the valley below.

Setting off again I passed a proper restaurant one or two kms further! Too full to eat I continued on.

About this time I started thinking about my destination. I still had a load of climbing to do - as far as the village of Arteca. After that, downhill with some ascents to San Gil. If San Gil was going to be like Girón I wouldn't want to rush it. Maybe the trick would be to overnight in the mountains and get to San Gil early in the morning. Then I don't rush this road and I have a lot of time in San Gil. Ah! The flexibility of the solo traveller.

*I didn't realise it at the time but this is one of my last shots of the canyon. Excited at the prospect of a coffee and distracted by the threat of rain - yet another example of what a terrible tourist I am!😊*




​I came across a very well equipped shop and restaurant just as some raindrops started to fall and passed an hour over a coffee and a cold drink. The rain didn't hang around but I'd made up my mind - I'd head for San Gil.

The road now had changed and I was enclosed by trees in a much greener world. If the river was still around it was hidden and silent.

As an indication of entrepreneurship, every crash barrier (located usually on the bends) and a lot of the walls had the phone number of a mechanic spray painted on!
I also saw the value (or perhaps the folly of dating graffiti declarations of love! I saw one from 1979! I'm not sure if it's to Goivanny Baron or Giovann y Baron ("y" is "and" in Spanish). How will I ever sleep again?

The village of Arteca, the top of my climb was playing with me. The road circled the village climbing, climbing, climbing, dropping only to climb some more. At last I reached the top just as the rain restarted, heavier than before. Then I started to roll down.

Gismo's temperature dropped faster than I did - as far as 18C! I was actually cold! At speed the rain felt heavy but it was little more than a drizzle.
The landscape was agricultural, pleasant but not captivating. I questioned my plan to continue to San Gil. It would be less pleasant in the rain but the sky was brighter where I was going. I pulled in under a tree and booked a room on Booking.

San Gil was nothing like I expected! This is a big place and nothing like Girón. It is busy, a couple of junctions are nightmares to cross. I found the "hotel" easy enough and got checked in. They changed my reservation from a family room to a smaller one (fine by me) but also changed the private bathroom to communal. Less fine. Finally there was no key for my room.

*In fairness, even in the rain and without a canyon the trees did a good job of keeping me interested*



​I showered and went straight out in the dark heading for the Plaza. Surprisingly pleasant and relaxing. And dry! I wandered around needing food, but something simple. In the end I opted for a simple Subway sandwich and was overcome with tiredness as I ate it.

I returned to the hotel and with minimum wifi in my room was soon fast asleep.
Maybe I should have stayed in the mountains!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

The Chicamocha Canyon - some extra pics

*Early, early morning*








*Spot the truck!*






*There'd be something wrong with me if this wasn't a bit inspirational!*









*Or this! A bit tricky for sufferers of vertigo, though!*








*Beauty and the Beast!*

















*The National Agua Park! Opposite the National Park. But what a location!!*









*Epic. Just Epic.*








*I like the colour contrast*







*There are a few of these. I was disappointed to see them sponsored by local businesses. This was a ridiculous medieval castle themed hotel*






Chat? Yes Please!
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​


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Day 755, Thursday, October 07, 2021, San Gil to Barichara (via Villa Nueva), 31km Total KM 12703
Min meters 1120, Max Meters 1627
Total Climb 834 Total Descent 646
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 29

Figaries on top of figaries!

I woke up confused.
A bad night's sleep induced by cramp that had to be walked off had me up a few times. It had been my (provisional) figary to head up to Guane, a small town in the mountains, but it was close to 9 am and that would be in the heat of the day. Maybe I should stay here and take a daytrip unloaded? The place I was staying in was only OK. The internet was poor, I got locked in a bathroom because of a bad lock, the wash basin was blocked dumping water on the floor and I had no key for my room. San Gil is a touristy spot and options are limited especially at the bottom end of the scale.

*Two fabulous trees in the park. Labeled as "Happy Marriage" they are 310 years old! Given the development of the town it's a testament to someone that this little oasis of calm and beauty survived.*




​Grumpy, I got up and headed for a little riverside park that showed up as an interesting place.
It wasn't just interesting it was wonderful! Peaceful and quiet, full of plants, birds and squirrels (possibly other animals too) it had two swiftly flowing rivers running through it. There was a swimming pool too! 
I bought a coffee and wandered. So, so different from the busy, busy town outside. I was charmed and my grumpiness lifted. I'd stay another day, explore the town a little, come back to this park and write up my notes (so inspirational) and head up to Guane tomorrow.

*Walking through the park. Birds singing, squirrels playing (and looking for food), ríos rippling...... A fantastic little spot. I stopped to compliment the little older lady who took my money and she was delighted, leaving her booth to talk to me and making sure to explain that with my armband I could return all day long!*



​I returned to the hotel and instead of checking out asked to stay another night. No problem!
I went upstairs and started to get organised for spending the day outside when a tap on my door resulted in a "pocito" increase in the rate. Almost 50%! 
No. Just no. 
Instead of packing for the day, I packed to leave and was on the road for 11:30, destination Barichara. 
Barichara is a bigger town on the way to Guane with more (reasonable) priced accommodation options. A quick scan of Booking gave me an excellent last minute deal. (The place I left had vacancies at the lower rate!)

*I don't know what it is but put me on or near water and I am happy and calm. It was around here I decided to stay an extra day*



​There was climbing and there was bright sun and heat. Plus there was a tad of frustration that having made up my mind I'd had to change it last minute.

Spying some shade I pulled in and sat down for a while. I was in no rush and there was no point in pushing myself too hard.
That's when I met Chu who pulled up in his motorbike. Enthused by my trip he said that there were a lot of people in Barichara who would want to meet me. He gave me complicated directions to his house and invited me to call around when I made it up. 

I continued on up, making use of the shade when offered. The views were very pretty and traffic was light. Easy going except for the heat and climbing.

*Leaving San Gil. Feckin' yellow cabs again! Damn steep too! The Plaza is pretty and well used, the rest of the town that I saw is functional, urban and to my eyes ugly.* 



​Spying a restaurant I pulled in. Mildly peckish and very thirsty I ordered a coffee and water and looked at the menu. Ordering blind I actually ordered a soup! Colombia may cure me of my soup phobia!
My coffee when it came was delicious! Mexican style, flavoured with cinnamon and cloves. The boss was in a chef's jacket and neat trousers, the best turned out restaurant employee I've seen in a long time and I was his only customer. He was very happy when I raved about his coffee.
A young couple came in for a while and left before me since I was in no rush. Noticing the bike the young fella started talking about me to the boss. When the boss asked me where I'd come from all three were amazed. And again when I said where I hoped to go. Young fella was trying to be cool but his girlfriend kept saying "Oh my God" (in English) and her eyes were on fire! He quickly pulled her out of there!
Time to go I paid my bill, the chef honestly returning the extra note (I was confused again! In my defence there are old and new notes).
He offered me a final coffee before I left but with the heat and more climbing ahead of me I declined.

*A good indication of the road to Barichara - decent surface, quiet, interesting landscape. Pleasant.*



​Back on the road again I stopped again near the peak for something cold. Sitting down there was a very cold atmosphere beside me. A car had pulled in, steam coming out of something in the engine. A woman was looking very, very unhappy, a kind of "I told you" vibe coming from her. A man, big, strong but looking very sheepish was standing looking at the car. 
Eventually, he got some water, poured it in and they set off. Not a single word spoken between them yet some very serious communication had taken place!

Soon I was rolling downhill and enjoying the cooling breeze. It was pretty much all downhill now to the hotel outside town. I thought I'd pass the hotel, hit town and then return. It had a swimming pool! A dip would be nice! Ah, bliss!

I don't know why I did it but at a sign for Villa Nueva I stopped, thought, had a quick look on Osmnand and turned off.

A wiser person than I would have put a bit more thought into things (a town called New Town may not be a cultural attraction?) and a less impetuous one might have looked at the elevation profile in a bit more detail before commiting but what else are figaries and adventures for? 

*The pleasant Plaza in Villa Nueva. A quiet, dusty town, agricultural with lots of buildings of red (local) blocks, most left unplastered. I received lots of stares that I took as simple curiosity and nothing more*



​Not surprisingly, a lesser road off a lesser road was quiet and a lot of fun as it ran downwards. A slightly different perspective was had regaining all the height! I was in rich, fertile farmland now the soil very orange. 
Villa Nueva was a disappointment - new certainly, straight, angular and very dusty. I couldn't even get down the main street as it was being worked on behind big black sheets. By instinct I found the Plaza, better than I had started to expect with a lovely tree as a centrepiece. The church was coldly modern.

Then it was back through the dusty town and onto backroads to take me to Barichara. I had got a bit of a shock before I left the Plaza to see it was heading on for 5pm - and darkness! 

*The landscape on the way in to Villa Nueva. I'd passed several decent sized farm operations and to my untrained eye the land looked fertile and productive. *



​The smart, sensible thing to do would be to double back to where I had turned off. The adventurous thing to do would be to take the backroad Osmand said would bring me to Barichara. It's been a long time since I was smart and sensible!

*Adventure!!!! There's something so exciting about taking a figary like this! I have no idea if I'll be able to travel the whole way, I didn't look at the elevation chart and if it rains on that surface I'm fecked! If the worst comes to the worst I'll have a bad day but a funny story.*



​From the get go there was a ridiculously steep climb. I had no idea of the relative altitudes of Barichara and Villa Nueva but thankfully it was relatively flat or downhill with the ocassional steep climb for fun.
The surface varied from concrete lanes for the really steep bits to compact mud to gravel. Hard work at times but great fun!
Meeting a tuk tuk my mind relaxed a bit. If a tuk tuk can travel the road so can I. Despite feeling a bit of pressure due to the time I couldn't help stopping regularly. This was adventure! Out in the middle of nowhere, just the ocassional motorbike passing by on a narrow, twisty road of gravel, sand, and whatever else happened to be there.

*Ah! So that's why the buildings are red around here! Narrow roads, stonewalls an ominous sky that I'm ignoring and bemused motorcyclists. Great fun!*



​Arriving into Barichara Osmand let me down by leading me down a very, very, steep, crazy paved street to a dead end. No option but to turn around, push back to the top and continue on. I took another death defying street down to the main road and turned towards San Gil and the hotel. Another climb, now in the dark, for a couple of kms and I was home.
I wasn't going to go looking for Chu in the dark.
Informed that the Booking rate was wrong (way too low!) the receptionist agreed to honour it anyway. Checking in took a while, finding my room another. The shower took even longer - I had hot water!!!! 
Then down to organise food. Without a restaurant it was order in. My first choice wasn't open so all in all it took about 30 minutes to order a pizza.
I have a fabulous room that looks over a pool! Yes a pool! And I'm too tired to do anything about it.

*My first little sashay off the bigger roads in Colombia was a success! *



​I could have arrived earlier, swam, eaten in town or bought my own ingredients but I took the fun road! 
Not a thing was regretted!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

I don't know where to begin!

I think we can all agree that my "planning" for this tour is a tad on the haphazard side. And frankly, since this pandemic my goals have shifted towards enjoying each day as opposed to fretting over a plan and schedule. Border dashes in Central America made that a bit more difficult but I was looking at Colombia and thinking "Big country! Three months! Lots of time".

Well today put things to the test and I've ended up in a delightful place that was not on the itinerary after an epic, but very tough, day.

My first divergence from the plan occurred before I even got up! Breakfast being served from 7am swayed me to skip my planned much earlier departure. (I was awake from 4am). Instead I threw on my "Sounds of Lockdown" playlist on YouTube and listened to some old friends. I had to hum along when it was buffering (poor wifi) but that's just part of the fun.

*The surprisingly quiet, very peaceful and very pretty Plaza/Park in Barichara. A popular tourist destination I got to see a glimpse of the "real" town with locals going about their daily business. *



​The hotel wasn't busy but I still got a bit of a land when I arrived at the breakfast area to see a few tables for two and one sad, lonely looking table for me!

Breakfasted and coffeed I was engaged by another resident so had to have a chat. I couldn't be rushing off - that'd be rude!
I arrived in Barichara planning to visit the Plaza and motor off. I had a bit of a roundabout route planned for today - Up to Guane then down to Soccorro rejoining my friend Ruta45 (A).
Then I saw the Plaza. Actually no, this one is a Park. Delightfully green, cool and alive in a very pretty, very calm town. Nothing for it but to stop and soak it all up. A coffee and a pastry couldn't do any harm

*The very pretty local church (it may even be a Cathedral) made of local stone. In these hilly towns (and Barichara is hilly!) the churches often have a fine stairway leading up to them. I find them very impressive*



​I was accosted by an older woman who was really thrilled by my trip. She's from further south and up here hiking and visiting the small towns. Waiting for a bus to take her to her next one she had her own guide. He was very quiet, but then again we both were because when she got into full flow there was no stopping her! 
She did dig into her bag to give me a new facemask though!
Her guide was impressed that I knew her next town, Cachiri, since I'd passed high above it a few days ago on the fabulous Canyon ride. When he heard where I was going he suggested Cabrera - a name that meant nothing to me.
Saved by the arrival of their bus I retired to the park to enjoy my coffee. Undoubtedly, this is a tourist town, a highbrow tourist town, but on a Friday morning, early, I got to see the normal side. Much quieter than I am used to.
Realising I hadn't seen the church (so dense was the flora in the Park) I corrected that and was enthralled by it. Made out of local reddish stone it was very charming.

*In the Plaza/Park in Barichara. So calm, so relaxing most definitely not a place for rushing through*




​Like Girón, the streets were narrow and steep but unlike Girón there was a bit of individuality in the colour schemes. Everything was white, of course, but doorframes and windows could be blue or yellow or green. Surprisingly bright and cheerful.
The local bookshop had a sign up "More books less bullets, more imagination less fear". I liked that. (And I only needed Google for the bullets!)

*Leaving town and heading into the clouds! I can't possibly explain but cycling into clouds is tremendously exciting to me! I suppose having my head in the clouds can only be an advantage in times like this*



​Reluctantly I headed off and not just because I had a monster hill to climb. It was a lovely, lovely place. Calm. Peaceful.
Before I was even out of the town my touring heart was starting to pump excitedly - clouds were floating past just up there - I'm back in the clouds! I have no idea why but I find that very exciting.

Barichara wasn't finished with me though. Pillars marked the entrance/exit on this side so I had to stop for a photo. Then a little, a very little later, there seemed to be another little Plaza at the side of the road. Will they ever let me leave?

*The road I'm supposed to be taking (if they'd stop laying on distractions on every bend!) complete with Cowboy! Beautiful Plazas, low clouds and now a Cowboy! Can this day get any better?*



​I pulled over to enjoy the view and realised that the side road was specially built by the council. Down I went to a precipitous drop but the most amazing view of yet another canyon! (A different river to a few days ago - I checked).
It was spectacular!
Great too for a practical demonstration of just how high I had climbed!

*Whoah! Not for the faint of heart!*



​By now my plan, my schedule, whatever you want to call it was in tatters as I climbed back on the bike and rode back to join the road.

*Mountains in clouds, another canyon. Am I ever gonna get outta here?!*






*I find it interesting how farmers carve out pieces to farm amongst the wildness*






*Yeah, yeah, I know! More mountains in clouds!*





​And so brings part 1 to an end!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part Two

I had a long, sweeping descent ahead of me and had I wanted to make up lost time I would have been disappointed. Very disappointed! The practical excuse is that the road was narrow and in poor shape with a lot of potholes but the imaginative response is that it's a magical road with fantastic views.

*Looking back up at where I had come from. OK, the road wasn't great but it was pretty empty. However, blue mountains! And a solid wall so that I could stop anytime I wanted!*



​I stopped often. I savoured. I soaked it all up. Even from this height the river was alive and surging powerfully. Cows lolled in the shade. Goats were a bit more lively. An old battered pickup came down behind me blasting a song that the two guys in it were accompanying. The chorus was "Colombia" blasted with a passion that far exceeded their melodic abilities. I couldn't help but smile - a smile that was returned a hundredfold as they passed me.

*I could stop a lot ......... So I did!*



Near the road was (poor) farm country and I saw quite a few stone walls. I've no idea why, but I do like my stone walls. Further away was the river then further back the mountains, very blue today reached up into the sky and the clouds. I do like my cloud topped mountains. I had everything thing I wanted! It wasn't even too hot!

*When I wasn't stopping I was sweeping! *



​I observed a motorbike pull in at the gate to a farm and pick up a passenger. A biggish, black dog was springing around both in a kind of delerium and as they headed towards me he bounded along beside them until (presumably) on a signal from his boss he stopped dead. Thinking a playful dog would be the icing on the cake I slowed down but his demeanor changed from happy and springy to "What-The-Hell-Do-You-Think-You're-Doing?".

*There's a little farm down there, stone walls, and of course, mountains and clouds*



​Then the climbing began! Down into the granny gear and just take my time. There are trees here draped in a type of moss that just thrill me. They are so evocative, so moody. They cast an atmosphere. Beautiful.

*A field of wonderful trees*



​Stopped at the side I spotted movement and saw the most amazing, tiny lizard. His hide was like it was of polished bronze that changed to silver and ebony as he moved and the light played off him. His tail was a spectacular, brilliant metallic blue and swayed wildly as he moved. A tiny thing, he'd have comfortably have fitted in the palm of my hand.

*It was poor farmland around here. Fields were hacked out of the scrub. The cloud cover meant that the worst of the sun was held at bay and humidity was not too bad. Working hard going uphill though had me bathed in sweat*



​By this time a cunning plan was forming - see Guane and then return to Barichara for the night again! I'd get to see this fabulous road in both directions! And maybe get a chance to meet up with Chu.

*I felt like Royalty riding along here!*



​It wasn't easy going up - it was steep - but it was very, very enjoyable. My legs started to complain of the climbing so then my plans started to change again. Maybe I'd stay in Guane. 

*Every bend just drew me along......*



​Guane is 10km from Barichara. It took me 2.5 hours to cover the distance. I think I did it too fast!

*And every bend was different*




​To be continued......

*Same road going back down (for a bit)*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Oct 2021)

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part 3

I am a terrible, terrible tourist!

Guane is lovely. It is old, it is small, it has a very pleasant Plaza and an amazing old church. But on a Friday morning it was deathly quiet.

*Downtown Guane on a Friday morning. That first shop sells artesanal sweets flavoured with whisky amongst other things. You won't see good Irish whiskey wasted in such a fashion!*



​I was accosted (again!) by a couple who (again) reacted with wonder and enthusiasm to my adventures. 
I did a lap of the Plaza, totally enamoured by the multi-use basketball court / football pitch included in it.

*It's a hive of activity! I don't mean to be unfair. My understanding is that the indigenous people of this area are amongst the earliest Colombians. A concerted effort is being made to preserve and educate people of the history. In a small, small place like Guane that seems to have taken over and is the sole reason for its continued existence - a museum and lots of stores. I saw precious little evidence of "normal" life. Then again, there is a Pandemic.*



​I visited the church - a lesson in subtle style and elegance. Like Barichara made of local stone it had impressive, solid wooden doors at the front and along one side (for light and air). Two small chapels were along either side. There was no sign of the frankly scary statues that can inhabit Mexican churches. Pews were quite short and allowed a wide aisle to form. The roof was supported by ancient wooden beams roughly carved from trees. 
I sat for a few moments and enjoyed a sense of calm descending. 

*The very, very impressive church. Solid and relatively simple, adapted to the conditions with open side doors for ventilation and coolness it struck me as sincere, if buildings can be such.*​





Needing coffee I tried the most likely looking spot and had a fresh, strong black coffee brewed up in front of me. Sweets are the thing in these parts, artesan sweets so I tried some Arequipe with my coffee. Almost like a thick custard it was very, very sweet. 

*Earning our Tourist Points!*



​Most of the buildings were closed. I assumed that most are artesenal shops open at the weekends when I imagine the town is hopping. 

*I was incredibly impressed with the new sports court attached to the Plaza. Something actually for the people who live here. Right across the road from the school. And that view!*



​It's a very small place (look on Google Maps for Guane, Santander) and it didn't take long to explore it all.
This area (and the people from here) is viewed as the cradle of Colombia, I believe. 

*When you've seen all there is to see walk upwards and you'll come across vistas like this......*



​There is a museum but it was closed so my knowledge is not what it could be. 
Under a big tree the local tuktuk drivers were playing cards waiting for custom. On the opposite side of the Plaza was the little school.

*Or this......*



​In the Plaza is a statue of a man, Isías Ardila Díaz, who I believe founded the museum. It has a simple, and to my mind, touching message. No big long rigmarole about what he had done just "Testimony of gratitude". 

*And this*



​I found a wonderful view over the canyon and to the mountains and was amused to see they are building a "commercial" viewing platform that will no doubt offer all kinds of treats to tourists. 
I did come across a fancy looking hospedaje (all the accommodation around here is crazy expensive) but as much as I liked the place there was nothing happening and nothing likely to happen. I decided to move on. Bad tourist!

*The church and the Plaza*



​Looking at Osmand to see if there was an alternative way back to Barichara (there is, but not recommended for bikes) I came across Cabrera, (where the guide had recommended earlier) not on my route but in the right general direction. Another small looking place but an interesting looking road. What to do?
Back to Barichara or more adventure? 
More adventure of course! 

To be continued....






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Oct 2021)

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part 4

It was after noon when I rolled up and out of Guane. I'd filled up with water because I wasn't quite sure what was ahead of me. The first few kms were downhill back the way I had come and then I took a turn. At least a little signpost said the "tourist route" to Cabrera was good for bikes, hikers and horses!

*What a feckin' road! What a view! *



​Ah, roads like this are one of the reasons I do this crazy stuff. It was fabulous. It was epic. It was filled with beautiful scenery, constantly changing, there were noises of animals in the ditches and birds singing (or trying to sing!) and the surface sliding under my tyres added a lovely frisson of risk and danger. 

*Four minutes later....... I am spoilt!*



​I don't think I went much faster downhill than up because I stopped so often. One moment the road veers away from a long drop into the canyon (crash barrier? What's that?), the next I'm cycling under a canopy of trees and I'm wondering where is the canyon?

Parts were a bit technical at times, but still great fun. Traffic was almost non existent and consisted of mainly motorbikes. They weren't going fast either!

*Epic!*



​For some reason the far off mountains were very blue today and with a blue sky above them and green slopes between us there was an exhilarating kaleidoscope of blues, greens and whites. 

The descent came to an end at a ford. More adventure!
Then the climbing began. 
Oh. Dear. God!
A more careful study would have revealed a ballpark 400 meter climb in 4km. And it started steep! Very steep! 

*When I saw this photo on my phone I thought that any book promoting bike touring as fun and adventurous should use this picture😊 It's bright, sunny, exciting and we have no idea what's around that bend! *



​For the really steep parts they tend to put in two concrete lanes (maybe a double tyre width) with cobbles set in cement in the middle. It's quite a narrow space to cycle gradients well into double figures without either hitting the rough cobbles in the middle or going off the opposite edge.
There was no way I could cycle safely so I didn't. I pushed. And I heaved. I sweated buckets. 
Surprisingly, very surprisingly for me, I didn't swear once! 

*As it turned out this was around the bend! Another río to ford!*



​I paused often, locking the breaks and leaning in to the gradient. There were very few places to comfortably rest the bike and now the sun was out in full force so shade was a consideration too. 
Within five minutes I could have convinced you that I had just had a fully clothed shower! If your nose worked you could have called my bluff!

The road twisted and turned so I never knew what was around the next bend. Around one bend was a fabulous waterfall! 

*Bike Touring; A Route To Solving All of Life's Great Questions!*



​I passed many farms, usually with dogs, some of whom barked, and a handful who came out to chase but then seemed to take pity on me and just looked confused. 
​I knew I "only" had 4km of this until Cabrera but rounding a bend to see more of the "steep" concrete I pulled up and sat down to rest. Then Freddie came along on his motorbike. He jammed on his brakes and the words fell out of his mouth. If I didn't understand every word he said his eyes translated them for me. The sun had some serious competition! 
If he told me once he told me half a dozen times how happy he was to meet me. To meet someone travelling the world on a bike! I gently corrected him that I have no plan for world domination, that the Americas are enough and his response, rightly enough, I suppose was that it's still a pretty impressive thing. 
Chatting to him was like plugging myself into a socket and getting a charge. His enthusiasm seemed to sweep over any hill, no matter how steep. 

*Can I overuse the word "Epic"? Not on this road, I can't!*



​He asked me my name and I replied with the Spanish version, Francisco, explaining that it's Frank in English but these days I prefer Francisco. It's the name of an explorer, an adventurer. Frank is the name of a bookkeeper*. He misheard and called me Franklin. Hell, I've been called worse
(Later he passed me again going the opposite direction with an old man as passenger. "Hey Franklin", he happily called out several times as he seemed to explain to his passenger who I was. Franklin sounds cool!)

* No offence intended to any bookkeepers. Somewhere there's a certificate with Certified Accountant next to my name.

Off he went and I was recharged and ready for the last assault. The worst of the steep gradients were over and I was back onboard weaving over and back on hardpacked clay.

*Waterfall!*



​I met a couple of goats on a bend. While one was definitely loose, albeit with a rope hanging around his neck, one seemed tied up. Mr. I-Want-to-Break-Free was curious and not too shy. When I stopped he didn't run away but slowly ventured over to investigate me.
I know nothing about goats so I put my fist out like I do for dogs and he responded quite like a dog sniffing me. 
I talked to him telling him what a lovely place he was living in but how bloody tough it was to cycle. He didn't seem to care too much.
I couldn't help but think of Iohan, one of the great adventure cyclists who died recently. His videos always featured animals, mainly horses that I recall. 
So there, on the side of a sandy, single lane road in some mountains in Colombia I took a little time to remember an inspiration of mine.

*Making a new friend and remembering an old inspiration*



​The road continued ever upwards on clay. With jelly legs I managed to ride ok. With such small towns you can be in them before you know it and such was the way with Cabrera.

*The waterfall...... Again. I really like this shot (Always look behind you, folks!)*​






Chat? Yes Please! I'm gonna talk about this day until I run out of words!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Oct 2021)

Day 756, Friday, October 08 2021, Barichara to Cabrera (via Guane), 27km Total KM 12730
Min meters 690, Max Meters 1312
Total Climb 568 Total Descent 882
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 31

Part 5

The adventure's not over yet!






I headed for the Plaza not difficult to find in a small place and was charmed. A couple of fine trees, lots of seats, a couple of covered areas and a surprisingly large church. I did a lap of the Plaza figuring out that this was pretty much it for the town and stopped outside a "supermarket". I bought a cold drink, a banana and some bite size pastries - I was pretty hungry! - and sat on the Plaza. It's another quiet place, but a real place, not touristy like Guane. 

*The very pleasant Plaza*



​I had asked the shopkeeper about an Hospadeje that showed up on Osmand and after a good rest made my way up. 
Normally in a new town accommodation is the first thing I want to get sorted but not here. The fact that there seemed to be only one option should have applied a little pressure but everything else about the scene was the very opposite. Rushing would be a crime. I felt like I was in a Goldilocks position - everything was just right and I didn't want to do anything to upset that.

*Mountains are everywhere!*



​It's a very small town, population about 400 according to the shopkeeper. There's a surprisingly large and well kept Police station and I had the feeling that if there was no room at the Inn I may well be able to set up my tent in the Plaza.

*As can be imagined I stood out but was not aware of any ill feeling or negativity. Folk responded to my greetings*



​A man walking down the street started talking to me as I pulled in beside the neat looking hospedaje. It turned out that he seemed to be the boss. Then he was trying to call someone but because there's no signal we had to walk together for a signal. Then we met the lady he was looking for before he could call her. Then, instead of going back to the hospedaje we went to another building that looked like a wing of an old motel. A simple basic room and the cheapest so far! I'd to bring my water bottles back to the hospadeje to fill them up. 

*All white houses and steep hills!*



​After a shower I did just that then returned to the park to see this little town go about its evening business. Very little happened and it was clear I was sticking out as a foreigner but felt none the worse for that. 
And I wrote this day up.

*This would be my road out of town. Steeper than it looks!*



​I need to eat and I don't think I've sat down and written so much in one go for a long, long time.
This day deserved it! 

*The lovely church from the Plaza*



​I'm sure some of you are thinking "what a plonker! Five posts for a ride that was 27km!" Some days are like that though. They can't be planned for, they just happen, maybe are influenced by people we meet (I didn't know where Cabrera was this morning!), or people you "know" in some way, shape or form. A lot is about our own attitude. Personally, I find having time reduces pressure, reduces stress and opens up more possibilities.

*The door of the church*



​And maybe some are thinking "It's alright for him, he's in Colombia. Everything is exciting over there".
To them, I'd say, yes, you have a point. But I used to do this in NL at weekends. A planned route rarely lasted past the first interesting diversion and I could end up anywhere. There's a wonderful freedom to changing things on the fly, to listening to recommendations and just going for it. 

Doing a Francisco I think I'll call it! 







Of course doing a Francisco can have its drawbacks...... Here I pulled up for a ferry in Zeeland to discover I was a bit early. The ferry ran between July & August and I arrived in May! 50km extra to a campsite!





Chat? Yes Please! I'm gonna talk about this day until I run out of words!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Oct 2021)

Day 757, Saturday, October 09 2021, Cabrera to Socorro, 28km Total KM 12758
Min meters 645, Max Meters 1293
Total Climb 860 Total Descent 581
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 32

An end to the figary taking

Now, there's no way that my accommodation last night will win awards but that is one of the beauties of bike touring - our needs become very, very basic and we are satisfied with the basics. I cooked up some pasta and tuna, read my book (no internet!) and slept a very satisfying sleep.






The next morning I was slow to get up, brewed a coffee, boiled some eggs and sat on the step outside. Village life is quiet, very quiet!
I packed up, returned to the Hospedaje to return my key and was offered more filtered water and directions for my journey.
The sensible thing was to take the best road back to San Gil and the 45 to Socorro (my destination from how many days ago?) but doing a Francisco meant taking the lesser known road!
I stopped off in the shop and the friendly shopkeeper wanted to know what I thought of the town. Hard to leave! A place that I didn't just see, but felt. Its calmness, its tranquility seeped into me. 

*Back on the road! What a morning!*



​Not necessarily a good thing considering that first up was a bloody big hill out of town and then onto a road with a solid surface that lasted for a few hundred meters. Distracted by a dog I got confused and missed a turn to the right thinking it led into a farm. Gizmo showed me that another right turn might work so I laboured ever upwards. Arriving at that second turn something didn't seem right so I wheeled around to a man backing out of his house to ask. 
Sure enough, I'd missed my turn and while this road brought me close to where I needed to be they didn't connect!
I thanked him, chatted to his dog and rolled down the hill.
There, at the bottom, blocking the farm and leaving the road open was my direction giver! Clearly my reputation has spread to Colombia and the locals know I need all the help I can get! 

*WooHoo!*



​Pretty much straight away I was onto one of those concreted sections that mean steep! Very steep! Except this time I was going down! I'd have a long drop, a bit of flat and then a pretty hefty climb all before hitting any kind of civilisation. 

*Taking a break on the descent!



*​A big difference today was a relatively clear sky and a bright sun. An issue for later - I'd worry then.
A few more houses today hardly added to the almost non existant traffic and I was able to kick back and enjoy the ride, even if it was quite tricky at times. The landscape was positively glowing in the sunshine like someone had spruced it up for me. 

*As the meter numbers dropped down on Gizmo my year numbers were dropping too! An old man climbed grunted up a steep hill this morning a kid arrived at the bottom!*



​It's funny the things we notice as we pedal along. On the way to Villa Nueva I had noticed a farm with particularly distinctive fence posts. Nothing elaborate, but painted in a distinct colour scheme. As I passed the gate there was a sign up announcing posts for sale and since then, quite a lot of the farms had their own unique colored poles. I know Pride is supposed to be a sin but these struck me as an outward expression of pride and one that I approved of. If nothing else they are pleasant on the eye.

*Look at the sky! The engineers gave me a fun road, Mother Nature put on a show!*



​When the steepest part of the descent was over the surface reverted to gravel or compacted mud. A few bends near little streams hadn't dried out since the last rain and were a reminder that I was either very foolish to be doing this road or just damn lucky!

*Sorry for all the road shots..... But I think they're fan-bloody-tastic!*



​It was hard work even if descending and I was working my way through my water. This could be a problem later since there were no stores until I was back on the main road near the end. And that was up pretty high!

*Look at the fence posts!*



​To be continued........ (I want to include as many pictures as I can)

*Recycling at its finest? An armchair made from tyres!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Oct 2021)

Day 757, Saturday, October 09 2021, Cabrera to Socorro, 28km Total KM 12758
Min meters 645, Max Meters 1293
Total Climb 860 Total Descent 581
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 32

Part 2

Eventually I encountered a river signifying an end to the descent. Spying a covered area I pulled in to the shade and relaxed for a while. The river behind me was roaring along, crashing against rocks and boulders so at odds with the peaceful scene around me.
With a phone signal I checked Booking for a deal in Socorro and, lucky as I am, snagged what I thought was a great last minute deal. They required an arrival time which I put at several hours away despite only having about 13km to go and explained I was travelling by bike. It was approaching noon, I was on a gravel road and had about 700 meters to climb. 
With accommodation out of the way I could relax!

*Flying along by the river! *



​I set off flying along the river thrilled as it's volume and tone changed as I moseyed along. If I had to climb it roared and if the road was flat it was much more gentle.

I had a very pleasant surprise crossing an old bridge as I spotted a little store. A cold coke (glass bottle bliss) in the shade was perfection. They had chairs made out of recycled tyres that were very cool! 

*The río. Very powerful.*



​The thing with crossing a river is that it's a sign of impending climbing. To my mind I now had two "legs" left. A big climb back to the main road (and food) and another climb along the main road to Socorro. I had accommodation, I had water. There was no rush. I said bye to the river.

*I really didn't get too far until the bright, powerful sun proved too much. This was my view as I sat in the ditch in the shade (having done a thorough search for thorns!) *



​My relaxed attitude was put to the test pretty much immediately. The climbing was actually fine. Granny gear, reasonable spinning and I could use the whole road as needed because traffic was so light and generally slow. The problem was the blazing sun. A few stops in shade demonstrated the difference, about 8C. The problem was on a narrow road there were few places to stop and get off the bike. Seeing one likely spot I pulled in, hopped off and sat in the shade. I passed a very pleasant hour writing up my notes and picking photos for the blog. A few cars (and one MTBer) passed with no remarks.

Getting going again there seemed to be more shade (but height of trees and road angle in relation to the sun were more important) but I could maintain a reasonable rate of progress until I repeated my pause again. This time I was treated to a bigger version of my blue tailed lizard of the other day! 

*The sun might be cooking me but it does bring out the best in the scenery*



​It came as a pleasant surprise to suddenly find myself within spitting distance of the main road. There was nothing much at the junction so I turned the wrong way and rolled down to a restaurant down there.
With a slightly delicate belly (still) I knew I needed food but not the "big" food they had on offer. A chat and we settled on some rice, fried eggs and banana. Perfect!
The restaurant was opposite what seemed to be a prison! It didn't make me hurry up though!

*With height comes the views!*



​Eventually, quite tired now, I got up and headed off for the last leg. It was going to be all uphill, only 7km or so, but even so it seemed a larger task than it was.
First up, I was back on Ruta 45, a two laner with infrequent shoulder. I had to get used to traffic again! 
Secondly, there were a lot of powerful motorbikes racing along. These weren't the typical work horse small bikes, these were powerful, recreational and riding in packs taking the racing line and to Hell with anyone else. In all fairness, it's a great road for it. 
Thirdly, I was out of puff. I think a lot of it was in my head - I had gone from being in the mountains, from travelling along a river and through canyons on exciting roads to back on a big road and having to take account of feckless boyracers. Looking to my right at the beautiful mountains and valleys just seemed to mock me. 
Then, to add injury to insult the temperature was dropping and dark clouds were coming over the high hills to my left. Rain was coming and I couldn't go any faster! 

*Back on 45(A). As much as I like my old friend I was feeling bleh after leaving the country roads*



​In truth, that feeling only lasted as long as the steep climbing was going on. As it became more gentle I got into the swing of it better and as raindrops started to fall I rounded a bend to get my first view of Socorro and the magnificent twin towers of its main church.
Gizmo directed me to take what seemed an almost vertical crazy paved road uphill and since I forgot to pack my grappling hook I passed and took the next, more gentle turn.
This is a hilly town and there is no escaping the climbing! The rain wasn't helping. With much zig zagging I eventually made it skywards and found the little hospedaje. My accommodation was billed as an entire appartment and it did not disappoint! 
A lovely older lady was waiting for me (having already sent a message to tell me to enjoy my journey) and had a jug of ice cold juice in the fridge for me! I have a fridge!
Such a warm, genuine and practical welcome lifted my exhausted spirits. The poor woman didn't bat an eyelid at the prospect of my wet, dripping bike coming inside and said simply that it's my place, do as I will.

*Socorro! Believe it or not it was starting to rain. Big, angry clouds from the left while the sun beamed on the right!*



​With it raining I had a shower, cold (these mountain showers are always colder!) and washed all my gear by hand. Then, as the rain lightened I popped out to explore and get some food. There's a delightful old church down the road and I found a bakery and then a store for breakfast. The bakery was interesting because they also had tables and chairs (not unusual in itself) but they were filled, mainly with families, the adults drinking beer and the kids soft drinks. Very civilised!
I also stopped off to buy cigarettes, a surprisingly difficult experience. One of two men sitting over bottles of beer (common in shops) translated my Spanish for the old man behind the counter. When the old boy's back was turned he explained that he was a bit deaf. It was well dark by now, wet, steep hills everywhere so I returned to my home for the evening, an idea starting to form in my head.

*What a great road! What a great decision!*



​I cooked up some pasta (I have a full kitchen!) and sat at a proper table to eat. Last night I ate on my bed! I haven't had such "home comforts" since CDMX! I do have to admit to a sudden pang of missing a place I can call my own. That surprised me.
Later, outside having a smoke my hostess (next door) answered the door to callers. I asked about staying another night - no problem and no messing with the rate either.
A Sunday in a small town, a Pueblo Patrimonio no less. What could be better?

*Sometimes I think I'm the luckiest b****x in the world......*






*And other times I know I am!*




Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Oct 2021)

Day 758, Sunday, October 10 2021 Socorro Rest Day

Ah! Lazy Sunday mornings!😀
I woke up about 4am, rolled over and went back to sleep.
I woke again about 7 but heard rain so read a little and went back to sleep.
The luxury!

*The inside of a museum behind a locked gate. A lot of the bigger, older buildings have open spaces within*



​When I finally got up the rain was still falling so I popped on the coffee machine (using, I'm ashamed to say Panamanian coffee!) and had a refreshing cold shower.

I had a leisurely breakfast and due to the rain updated this Travelogue. 
Then I went exploring!

*Heading downtown (with the emphasis on down). I really like the exposed blockwork (in the shade)*



​It is amazing how quickly everything dries up under the blazing sun here. Within 30 minutes of the rain clouds disappearing the streets were bone dry. 

*The main Plaza (there are at least three), densely filled with trees and flowers, families and pigeons!*



​I meandered downhill to the main, twin towered church and the main Plaza.
On the way I passed a museum - closed! I don't seem to have any luck! This place is full of history! 
The Plaza was closed off to traffic so it was peaceful and a gathering place for locals.
I found the church to be very impressive but due to geological issues parts of it move! The tower section has actually been separated from the rest of the building!

*A tree in a smaller, higher Plaza*



​This isn't a big town, or at least the old town isn't, although it is very steep. I was able to indulge in my following my nose method for exploring, over and back, up and down. Not a bit of hassle did I receive.

*The church viewed from the Plaza. It appears that a lot of work goes into keeping it upright!
(My subsequently acquired book tells me it is a replica of St. Peters Basilica in Rome)*



​I sat and enjoyed a coffee and watched people. There is a lovely relaxed vibe that is contagious. 

*The Plaza Again! Socorro is an important location in the history of Colombian independence - There are quite a few statues and monuments



*​I wandered through the market in the commercial area. Lots of people around but few transactions. The busiest places seemed to be the ones selling beer but I saw no drunkeness, just sociability. Outside were loads of pick up trucks, most double cabbed (front and back seats) with seats in the bed as well. And roof racks for luggage. These seem to be the collectivo buses - local transport.
Without exception they were packed tight. Covid restrictions how are ya? 

*Not all the buildings are white! *



​There's a real pleasure to be had in wandering these towns. There's a lot of character and a lot more variety of buildings (and colours) then Giron as an example. The steep streets lead to very high, usually narrow, footpaths. They can be an adventure in themselves. 

*I christened this Coronation Street! Another church (there are at least three within a couple of minute's walk of each other and a beautiful fourth up high). This one had no pews so the congregation sat on well spaced, plastic terrace chairs. *



​People seem more reserved than say México. There is a definite deficiency in smiles. Step out of the way of someone or hold a door open and there won't be an acknowledgement. That's not to say that I find it unfriendly - just reserved. 
In fairness, it seems that as I move south the more reactions I get on the road - or it may just be the mountains!

*Interesting graffiti depicting the coffee industry...... And the ever present motorbikes!*



​I meandered home picking up some ingredients for dinner and breakfast tomorrow. Home as darkness fell it was nice to have an evening in more than one room or a tent!







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Oct 2021)

Day 759, Monday, October 11, 2021, Socorro to Oiba, 30km Total KM 12788
Min meters 1287,  Max Meters 1771
Total Climb 761 Total Descent 601
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Damn! But I feel very comfy in Colombia!

If someone had said to me a few years ago that I'd bounce into a Colombian village on a bike, knowing nothing about it, having no accommodation lined up and that I would feel totally at ease I'd have had serious doubts.
Not maybe so much about the bike or even Colombia but the location, or specifically, the type of location and definitely I'd have doubted the feeling at ease part.
Yet, that is exactly what I noted today when I pulled up at the Plaza in Oiba, dismounted, got a coffee, some credit for my phone and sat in the Plaza just soaking up the atmosphere.
I may well be the world's worst tourist but I'm starting to get the hang of this travelling thing.
Mind you, the day I had put in on the saddle just set me up for it!

*Very early this shot captured my mood. From being in the middle of the mountains I was now cut off from them*



​Up late by my recent standards I had the supreme luxury of putting on some coffee (the last of my Panamanian stuff - I'm afraid I could be arrested for possession of inferior coffee!) and a decent breakfast of a bacon omelette and a couple of empañadas. All the while listening to some music.

*You get a better class of Love Motel in Colombia! Jacuzzis!*



​Then it was packing up (I had been very, very strict with myself - Lord knows the damage I could do to my packing system with so much space in the apartment!), returning the key to a genuinely lovely hostess and hitting the road.

Trying to avoid needless descents and climbing on such steep streets was a challenge with the one way system but I eventually made it onto the main road at the edge of town. It was busy!

*Roccado does like his epic backdrops!*



​The truth is I wasn't expecting much from today. After my figaries of the last few days, the excitement, thrill and satisfaction of the small roads and the small places off the beaten track I was disappointed to be back on the main road.
Ha! Dumbass!

*What kind of a Dumbass am I at all? (Rhetorical Question - no answers required!)*



​Leaving town behind the traffic, as it always seems to do, lightened and beautiful trees started to appear along the road. To my right I'd get glimpses of the mountains, less vivid than yesterday. And the climbing I had to get done started out relatively gentle. Not bad at all.

Then I came to a Police Checkpoint. I slowed down but I've never been stopped here in Colombia. This time I was. Uh oh.
I fumbled in my pocket for my facemask as the serious looking Policeman came over.
"Where are you from?" he barked. "Ireland", I replied, starting to open my barbag to get my passport.
"How long are you in Colombia?"
"About three weeks", I replied.
"Where are you going?" can be tricky to answer. Do they mean today, in their country or further afield?
Before I could answer he barked again "Bogotá?".
I shook my head and said I was heading for Oiba but my final destination was Argentina - El fin del Mundo.
"Aaahhhhhhh!", he says, a great big smile breaking across his face "To Patagonia!"
Then he was calling over to his colleague to tell him where I was off to and after lots of fistbumps I was on my way!

*The amount and variety of vegetation is unbelievable!*



​Truthfully, I wasn't sure where I was headed to. Oiba seemed a bit short, albeit with about 700 meters of climbing. I'm getting a feel for the place now and am reasonably confident of accommodation options being available that don't show up on any of my apps. Today was a follow my nose day and stop when I felt like it.

The climbing became gradually steeper but I didn't mind. Today was tree and vegetation day - there was a huge, wide variety of trees and plants on both sides of the road all reminding me that I'm in a new world. Photos don't do the scenes justice but spinning slowly upwards through Nature's way of telling me that I'm far, far away was invigorating!
A roadie drew slowly up behind me and we had a bit of a chat. He was going faster than me so I increased my pace but couldn't keep it up after about a km and slowly lagged behind. He had been busy telling me that it was getting steeper until I hit the top! Thanks for that!

Gizmo showed the profile well enough and after I'd hit close to 1700 meters it would be up and down for a while until a decent descent would drop me in Oiba.
Close to the top in no hurry and with a few raindrops falling I pulled in for coffee and an empanada. Then I'd another coffee and a sweet pastry. I'd earned them!

*In between the multitudes of greens there is a sprinkling of other vibrant colours. The photo doesn't really do the scene justice but rolling down to that corner there was a lovely, warm, orange glow to aim for.*



​The rain held off but was still threatening when I finished off the climb and set about the rolling hills. But what a road!!! Up high I now had a choice of valleys to admire - one on each side! It was pretty glorious! I had been stopping frequently to take photos but it became ridiculous now! No-one will ever want to ride with me in pretty places - we'll make no progress! Stop. Take a photo. Ride 100 meters rinse and repeat. (Earlier it had been 200 meters!)

I took 305 photos today to Oiba!
What I didn't take photos of (yet) are people drying out the coffee beans on the side of the road! This isn't the "Coffee Triangle" of Colombia but once in the mountains there's coffee!
That excited me greatly! Not just as a big fan of coffee but this is something I've read of, another sign that I really am in a different world! All those blogs I used to read? I'm living them now!




​Up and down, up and down with lots of stops. This is really beautiful country. Consistently beautiful for much of today and most of it was without the sun and lots of dark clouds. On a bright, sunny day I'd probably get nowhere!

That theme continued as I began the descent, still stopping frequently. I was in my element. Roadsigns warning of geological instability and road problems became more frequent and a couple of times I had to take evasive manoeuvres. All part of the fun!

Coming into Oiba I turned off and meandered down more narrow, steep streets to the Plaza. A man looked at me and gave me a smile and a big thumbs up. I was home.

*Have I mentioned the variety and quantity of vegetation? Add density to the list!*



​Booking showed a decent rate on a decent hotel around the corner so after checking out the church (Wow!) and soaking up the Plaza I wheeled over. Closed! Hmmmmmm.

I headed back uphill to the main road now in the rain and rolled through town. I passed a couple of rundown hotels rejected because commercial develoment on the ground floor meant long stairs to even get to a reception desk until I saw a sparkly modern hotel. Expecting a high rate I was very pleasantly surprised, and made most welcome. Roccado is sleeping beside the reception desk and I am assured of his safety.

A blissful hot shower and back in the rain to the Plaza. This church needs more time!
There's a wonderful contrast in these towns-on-the-road between the chaos, noise and activity along the road and the calm tranquility off it. The fact that I'm dropping steeply to the Plaza helps leave all the noise behind.
I've been in some amazing Churches and Cathedrals in my time, my all time favourite a little stone and wood small, rural church along the Camino Frances route in Northern Spain.
This reminded me so much of it, but on a much bigger scale. What was especially intriguing was the expert blending of the old and the new.
Built, as is common in these parts, from the local reddish stone, the main parts are of large blocks, the smaller parts, arches, for example, from smaller red bricks. It's very rustic yet elegant. The rough, uneven wooden beams add to the age and simplicity. A very high ceiling, a door at the side combine to offer a heady diffusion of light and coolness.
It is really a tranquil place.
But then there is the altar. It's not simple, at first glance it looks rather ostentatious but on closer inspection it's just gilded wood with statues and some creative lighting - an example of the old and the new.
I stopped taking photos in churches some time ago but I couldn't resist talking one here. A special place.

*A kinda typical, run of the mill church for these parts.....(Yes, I know how that reads)*




Another example of the old and new was the confession "room". A modern chair, an old wooden "stand" for kneeling on and resting hands in a completely white room with one glass wall, including the (glass) door. Outside another modern chair for the next in line. I've never seen a setup like this.
Similarly, at the back are statues embedded in arches in the back wall. Old, no doubt, they are illuminated by strip lighting inside the arch. Very pretty and very effective.
On leaving, and heading for the main door the light outside looks wonderful and the trees and plants of the Plaza framed in that light through the arched door is such a stunning sight.
A truly special building.

*Wow! Just wow! *


* No effects, just the "night" mode on my phone - it's really good at reducing the impact of bright light. At the risk of ruining the magic the altar is lit from above by a spotlight, the blue light is from the windows (aided I think by blue lights) and the statues are simply backlit. A wonderful combination of old and new.

Wandering back through the chaos I spotted a bullring - my first in Colombia. I ate at a little restaurant and retired early.
I'm really enjoying these little towns. Maybe I should be putting in longer days but the facts of the matter are that my ass is healing well and I see no point in aggravating it, the scenery deserves to be appreciated properly and so many small places are really quite interesting. I have the great gift of time - I'd be a fool not to use it!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

Day 759, Monday, October 11, 2021, Oiba

Having a wander today it hit me that I'm really not doing justice to these little towns, pictorially.

I've decided to throw up some extra photos (when merited) to give you all a better idea of what I'm seeing.

Enjoy!

*A view of the magial church from the front door towards the altar. The light sources kind of mess everything up but the stonework is clear, the ceiling is visible and you can probably make out the smaller red bricks in the arches 






The main road passing along the town. It's a ragtag collection of shops, mechanics and food places. The town proper is to the right and downhill*






*These can be very steep little towns! Perspective can be difficult to achieve with a simple camera. At about the middle of the bottom third of the camera there is a figure, half hidden by the corner of the building who is drying coffee beans on a tarp in the street. *








*The Park/Plaza. Lovely and green with lots of shade. It's so quiet around in comparison to the chaos above. *







_*A building that caught my eye and a perspective on the streets. A lot of buildings have wooden balconies, something that reminds me of Germany for some reason and of Tyrol.*_








*The Church towers over every other building*








*The local bike shop! Who needs a sign?







While a lot of the Parks have statues of "famous" people, especially of those involved in Colombia's Independence, it's not unusual to see statues dedicated to local people for local work. Unless I'm greatly mistaken the dedication reads something like " A monument to the illustrious people who, through their efforts raised the profile of our town". *







*And back to the church..... Approaching the main door and the view of the Park. Impressive doors. It looks better in the real world, honestly!*





Chat? Yes Please!
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​


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

Day 760, Tuesday, October 12, 2021, Oiba to Vado Real, 29km Total KM 12817
Min meters 1375, Max Meters 1550
Total Climb 497 Total Descent 436
Min Temp 28 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 33

Now I know what those unstable geology signs really mean!

Those roadsigns warning of geological instability came home to roost last night about midnight. I experienced another earthquake! 
Asleep, I suddenly became aware of the bed, then the room, then the whole building swaying! For a second or two I stayed put waiting for alarms to ring or other general sounds of mayhem but nada! I got out of bed and padded to the window looking for where people gathered. What people? No-one was out. Just another night in a little town. By now the swaying had stopped. I stood, feeling foolish then got back into bed. Into bed. It's getting cooler now as I go higher so I actually got under the covers last night.

*Wonderful countryside....... But dangerous! It only came home to roost to me today that I'm in the Andes! Feck me! I'm riding my bike in the Andes!



*​With such a disturbance it's not that unusual that I overslept. I sauntered down to the little café attached to the hotel for a morning coffee, then returned to my room, showered, chatted to a friend and went downstairs to pack.
Another Ortlieb problem! This time the bottom clip/lever removed itself! I've no idea why and I suppose I'm lucky it happened when I was loading up as opposed to being on the road. A bit tricky to fix but I got it done.

Time for another coffee then and a little breakfast. I was feeling quite tired and in no hurry to go. The food was good, the coffee great. I didn't even have a definite destination in mind. I'm getting close to the point where I have to make a decision on just where I want to visit in this area before turning off (to avoid Bogotá) then going cross country to join up with a river.
Depending on where I go it may mean some doubling back. Still mulling things over I got back on the road.

*At times there were lots of bends, great for wondering what lay around them, at other times pretty straight, just up and down. The road is making eyes at me again!😊*



​It really didn't take long to be charmed (again) by where I was. There is a low level beauty on display pretty much all the time. It's a bit like that old trope of the female librarian with tied up hair who wears glasses. One day she removes the glasses, shakes her hair out and no-one looks at her the same way ever again.

There are layers to the beauty. First up, is the sheer variety of flora on display. There is a distincive "jungle" feel to the countryside with lots of exotic (to me) plants mixed in with the more regular. They can be quite densely packed together giving a variety of shades of green and confusion as to what leaves belong to what trees. My photos don't do justice to what I see.
Then there are more open spaces leading to mountains and clouds. There's tremendous variety even in the hills. Sometimes the surfaces are relatively smooth, at others it's like the hill is suffering from mumps with lots of little hills emerging all over it. As I move along, and in today's case, up and down, the perspective is constantly changing. 

*Lots of rivers these days too! Some big and powerful, surging through the landscape, others smaller and trickling. Lots of little waterfalls along the road making pleasant noises and sometimes a big one way off in the distance*



​That was today's theme - rolling hills. It seemed like I was constantly going up or down. Lots of interesting curves but some straight sections too, climbing, descending or often both. 
Lots of warning signs about road subsidence too and it wasn't unusual to see those familiar with the road veering into the wrong lane for no apparent reason until I got there and saw the surface. Often one section of the road higher than another. Actual steps. 

It was very pleasant cycling. Traffic, as always, were happy to make space. Usually in packs I found it easier to pull over, let the convoy past and cycle on as king of the lane. Invariably, there was something interesting to see while I waited. 
There were lots of services too if I needed them. I passed several tiny villages. 
Dogs were yappy but not a serious threat. On my side it wasn't a big deal if one or two set off after me - barkers not biters - but I got stressed if the dogs on the other side went to give chase. They have no road sense and would get run over in no time. 
It was a very laid back, relaxing day.

*There always seems to be such a vista of life around a river.*



​I don't know if it's the mountains or the moving south but every day I am getting more and more acknowledgement from traffic - friendly acknowledgement. Today an SUV pulled up beside me as I climbed up and the driver called across to ask me where I was from. "Caramba!" was his response. We carried on a conversation over his mortified looking teenage son as I sweated uphill. Then he lowered the back windows to reveal three more kids in the back who all gave me a cheer before they pulled away. 

*I told you there was a lot of rivers!



*​Outside a little village I pulled in to a coffee/pastry place for a treat and to duck out of the sun for a while.
I regretted my decision almost immediately as the guy behind the counter was a bit surly, my order had to be entered into the computer (hence the computer was the important thing - I HATE that), I had to pay in advance (a first in Colombia) and finally, Starbucks style, I had to give my name (there was one other table of 3 people for crying out loud!!) - I HATE that too!

I'd ordered a coffee and some rice with milk what we'd know as rice pudding. It was presented well on a little wooden board, the coffee, the rice and some sugar but I had to ask for a spoon to eat the feckin' rice! That kind of thing really bugs me - a fortune spent on a "system" for orders but no thought about what a customer actually needs.

I retired to a shady table and opened up my map to have a look at things. In a flash he was back over to look at the map. I have a couple of general route options drawn in red marker and dots or lines marking off interesting places. He was intrigued and starting asking questions then, as if after getting a jolt of electricity he skipped away and returned with a (large) pocket sized guidebook to Colombia. Brand new and it looked like it had never been opened. 
A gift. For me.
Now I felt really bad!
We had a very pleasant chat as he tried to figure out my motivations and process the fact that I'm not really following a plan. 
At one stage he asked me how old I am and foolish, foolish me who is currently feeling like a million dollars asked him how old he thought I was.
I won't do that again!
It must be the feckin' beard!

*Not for tre first time I'm amazed by the amount, the depth and the variety of green! I feel quite at home



*​I rolled on in no particular hurry. The next town presents an opportunity to continue on this road or to take a smaller road through different countryside. There may even be some camping options at this height but the towns will be smaller and at this stage I'm really enjoying my small Colombian towns. I'll probably stop there for the night and make a decision in the morning.

*Tree variety and shade. Sometimes I don't know which I prefer!*



​It's not all lovely views and pleasant riding though. I passed a handful of groups of people today heading north with what seemed all of their possesions in an array of bags, backpacks, a shopping trolley and children's buggies. I'm assuming these are Venezuelans fleeing from the basket case their country has become. 
I could be wrong. I read a report recently of a journalist detained by Mexican Immigration for a few days and placed in a "camp" with other illegal immigrants in the south of México. As well as the usual mix of Central Americans there were Haitians and a surprising number from Africa. They cross to Brazil and make their way up through Central America, passing through the Darrien Gap in an attempt to get to the USA. The Haitians and Africans, in particular, have it hard because they have no Spanish. 
For all the talk of immigration whether it be the US or Europe it takes a special kind of bravery, commitment or desperation (delete as appropriate) to make such a journey. 
An image of a man pushing a child's buggy full of plastic bags of what seemed to be clothes, a child, no more than 6 or 7 walking beside him while his wife walked ahead carrying a toddler is going to stay with me for a while.

*The small, simple yet pretty Plaza (at the side of the road) with the modern church behind*



​I rolled in and through the town. The first hotel I tried I was told to return in a couple of hours, the second said no but the third explained why he couldn't give me a room - there was no water in the town! He suggested and gave me directions to a place outside town that did have water. A very nice man.
I rolled out and got a nicely cheap room, had a cold (mountain water cold!) shower and wandered back into the little town. This is pretty much spread along the road, even the teeny tiny plaza and the rather deceptive church (ugly on the outside, cool and calming on the inside).

I'd a bite to eat and then back to the hotel. 

*I don't know what they are but I just love those yellow trees! There is never more than one or two, swamped by regular, green trees. There's something very striking about them. The sun can mess with photos like these but at least I got to catch a splash of orange too!*



​Sitting on the balcony of the hotel (that makes it sound far more grand than it actually was!) it was interesting to see the traffic, especially the trucks, rumbling past.
Most vehicles, but especially the trucks are lit up in incredible ways. There's no rhyme or reason to it and certainly no respect for regulations (if any exist).
I see it during the day on the road but it's only at night that the full impact becomes clear.
Flashing lights of all colours, including white, in all locations - front, rear and side. It's not unusual for cars or motorbikes to light below them in a neon colour giving the impression they are being highlighted and moved by some kind of alien tractor beam. It's one thing on a two lane road but in larger urban areas it can be very confusing with all the competing light from buildings, signs, traffic lights and the sheer density of traffic. Then throw heavy rain into the mix! Don't think I'll ever drive at night in the Latin World!

*The road goes on forever, the party never ends (Robert Earl Keen) *




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

Day 761, Wednesday, October 13, 2021, Vado Real to Moniquirá, 52km Total KM 12869
Min meters 1374, Max Meters 1729
Total Climb 1183 Total Descent 842
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

As sweet as sugar cane!

It had been drizzling lightly yesterday evening as I had wandered around. Not heavy enough to make me wet and it's too warm to bother with a rain jacket. That changed later when it seemed that someone upstairs slowly started turning a tap. The rain slowly increased in intensity until it was pouring down. It seemed to be raining for most of the night although tonight there were no earthquakes to wake me!

*A cloudy, moody start to the day. But pleasantly cool!*



​I was awake early enough but availed of a decent internet signal to post an update here then got myself organised. The two ladies who had checked me in very kindly offered me coffee, gratefully accepted.
I couldn't make up my mind which way to go today. I could continue on 45(A) to Barbosa and turn off there or I could take a backroad that would have me in the place I want to get to in a few days.
I'd looked last night and couldn't make up my mind. Nor this morning. The backroad is always more appealing but it commits me to them for a few days and there are precious few services along them. The main road gives me more places to stop. There's going to be lots of climbing so places to stop are important.
I took the main road.

A 200 meter climb from the get go has a way of kicking the system into life! Mountains were bathed in clouds, the morning was cool and traffic (on my side) was light. The road was interesting with lots of twists and turns, the vegetation was as varied as yesterday and the unstable geology signs appeared regularly.

*The pretty little town of Santana. You wouldn't think much of it sticking to the main road but turn off, drop down and I'm in real, rural Colombia. The lazy part of me does object, though, to the extra (and often extreme) climbing I have to do*



​I'd decided to pull in at the next town, Santana, for a spot of breakfast. Built along the road, the town centre is well below the Plaza. The Plaza is bright, open and has statues of people labouring scattered around. This is sugar cane country and they seem to be proud of it.
A little before the town I had my first encounter with sugar cane when a couple of men were driving half a dozen ponies loaded down with freshly cut cane. The animals were lively, skipping over and back across the road and traffic behaved impeccably, coming to a halt, waiting and only moving when they could give the animals lots of space. Not a horn was heard.
I stopped at a little coffee shop for a coffee and empañada. A very nervous and shy girl was looking after me. She squealed in horror when I carried the coffee and pastry in one hand convinced I'd drop them!

*The sun is out now and the countryside has donned its beautiful garb*



​I saw the Police pull up and start frisking a group of young men hanging around a shop but other than that it seemed like a normal small town early in the morning.

Refuelled I rejoined the road. It didn't take long for me to have my next sugar cane experience - harvesting! 13 men, six ponies and a truck in a field. There were men chopping down the cane, then chopping it to size to be loaded onto a special saddle on the pony. Then, with a slap on the ass the laden pony was sent up a short, steep hill where he was unloaded and the cane thrown into a truck. A guy was in the truck packing it tight and high. I was amused to see the ponies taking the long way back for their next load. That's a lot of labour!

I was heading generally downwards but would have to regain all the height I was losing. Frustrating! The sun was out now having burned off all the clouds so I was getting hot! I missed turning off for another small town when I misread Gizmo and thought I could take the next, shorter turn. I could have but I would have needed one of the ponies from earlier it was that overgrown and steep!

*Sugarcane harvesting! Like back in North Carolina watching the cotton harvest I was captivated! Such another world! A real world!*



​Reaching Barbosa with over 800 meters climbing under my belt I thought that this would be my destination for the day. I took the long way around to get a good look and bounced up and down rutted, broken streets to a very bare, bleak and disappointing Plaza. Nothing spoke to me at all. I did a lap. Then another. I pulled in for a snack and a cold drink to receive Panamanian (and a bit of Costa Rican) service - totally disinterested. That made up my mind! On to the next town!

*Such a contrast! This is Santana, the Plaza had several statues dedicated to traditional, local labour (this is sugar cane harvesting). Barbosa was ugly in comparison with little to boast of. I do like how many statues commemorate "normal" things and "normal" people*



​I bought some ciggies from a store and was having one at the side of the Plaza when two guys approached me and positioned themselves at either end of the bike. My Spidey senses tingled as I positioned myself at the saddle. The chap at the rear fired questions at me yet didn't seem in the least curious while his buddy moved in and out at the front of the bike, saying nothing. I had the distinct impression that they were trying to distract me. I carry my small money in a little pouch that lives in the front pocket of my barbag. After my purchase it went back in.
I was civil, answered the questions but made it very clear I was watching the quiet one. When I was leaving I gave them the completely wrong direction for my next stop.
A crazy downhill street and I was on a different road heading out if town.

*It's possible I'll get bored of such scenes, but I doubt it. The sun is hot but it really brings out the beauty in everything*



​I was taking a new road, 62, it was a bit narrower than 45(A) it was also rougher and I had the idea that the traffic was a little impatient, or maybe it was just a reaction to my unpleasant encounter.

I now had another climb that started off gentle enough allowing me to put some space between me and Barbosa. I find that often on the bike that a bit of distance from something unpleasant can really help.

There was only about 10km to the next town and I was under no pressure. The big climb lasted about 4km and then it was up and down.
It was ok going although the traffic seemed a tad unfriendly. Passing a sign for a rockfall I didn't pay too much attention - I've been seeing those signs since México. Rounding a bend I heard a sudden loud noise above me and suddenly realised it sounded a lot like a large amount of rock falling! Well, I took off like a rocket, my legs hammering my head swiveling trying to see what was going on. With no traffic coming up behind me I headed for the middle of the road. With a wider perspective and clearing the bend I spied a quarry on my right and some contraption that seemed designed to capture and funnel rock to the ground. I had heard a rockfall, but a controlled one! Never a dull moment!😀

*There's a wildness that is very appealing*



​Osmand had plotted a route that brought me right around the town before entering it which seemed odd to me so I had it plot another route in bike mode that took a side road into town. That was the option I took, bouncing off the main road and on a pleasant, quiet road into town. At least as far as a bridge. The bridge was gone and a crew were busy preparing to build another. No way across! A young guy was very apologetic explaining that a pedestrian could get over but pointing at the bike he just shook his head.
No matter, I bounced back to the main road and was treated to a wonderful view of the town from up high, the distinctive twin towers of the unusual church being the main feature.

*There's a real "jungle feeling" that just fires me up*



​I followed Gizmo around, turned into the town, passed the Market and eventually landed up in the Plaza.
I got a coffee from a very pleasant street vendor then was accosted, pleasantly, by a guy who wants to take a bike on an adventure too. I asked his name but it was something unusual and I've forgotten it already but it was a very pleasant chat. He wanted a photo so I can't really say no and then a female friend wanted a photo too! I'm popular in Colombia!

*Layers and layers of mountains..... What's not to like?*




​I had another coffee and set off to look for a hotel. And the church. There was no church on this plaza making me think there was another. There was indeed! A lovely planted one. I'd asked my new friends about hotels but they were a bit vague. iOverlander had one but it was a bit out of the centre. One was way too expensive, another closed, another had stairs from the front door but following a sign down some backstreets I found a bargain of a new hotel!

*My first view of Moniquirá. I was impressed! It's the real advantage of touring in the mountains - village views. Easier, perhaps from up above but I have find memories of my Spanish Camino trip and seeing small villages on high and slowly winding up to explore them*



​A hot shower and I was out to explore this little town before the sun went down.

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

Day 761, Wednesday, October 13, 2021, Moniquirá

*Interesting buildings that overhang the river that cuts through the centre*








*The first, churchless Plaza that I visited. Unlike the main Plaza it stayed vibrant and alive after the sun went down. As well as the playground there were several stalls selling food and drinks. Kids played on bikes weaving around, others played football and a man with three daughters from knee height to chest height was playing a game of catch. A lovely vibe *








*This one's for Willie! A bar called Texas! *







*Every town or village so far has had a basketball court/football pitch, often with at least one stand for spectators. This one is enclosed. I peeked in to see a group of kids practicing archery! The next morning it was being used for Covid vaccines.*







*An interesting Star Warsesque statue in the Plaza*









*Another statue.....*







*I really liked this one. I could find nothing to say what it represents *







*The main Plaza in daylight with the distinctive church behind the trees. Full of life and pleasant until the sun went down. 
On arrival I was approached by a chap, a bit over-friendly. There was no harm to him.*








*The other Plaza in daylight. It was alive and stayed so long after the sun went down








The fabulous church which put me in mind of Germany. Inside was completely different too. No wooden beams, all plastered stone. An elaborate altar. As much as I liked the exterior the interior left me cold



*​*
*
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2021)

Day 762, Thursday, October 14, 2021, Moniquirá to Santa Sofia, 26km Total KM 12895
Min meters 1669, Max Meters 2399
Total Climb 976 Total Descent 256
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 28

Only 26km??? Who cares?!

The hotel was new, cheap and had hot water (the wifi password never showed up!) but I had a terrible night's sleep. An internal room, the only window opened to a corridor meaning every sound from any other room was clearly audible and an open door at the end of the corridor let the pumping music from a few doors down penetrate the building as effectively as the earthquake the other night. I'm pretty good at blocking out noise like music but the proximity of conversation (and kids playing) got to me. I awoke tired.

I got up and headed to the first Plaza I arrived at yesterday, passing by the quiet main Plaza. Coffee from one stand, juice from another and some chicken pastries were my breakfast as I sat and watched and thought. There was little to see so early in the morning so I spent my time thinking.
It's strange. Costa Rica had few route options and Panama practically none - here's a road, use it. But Colombia throws all kinds of options at me!
Villa de Leyva is my next destination, another suggestion from my Colombian amiga. I could go direct today on a smaller road or continue on the highway 62 which I was on yesterday, stay in another small town and turn off for Villa de Leyva on another small road.
I wasn't enjoying 62 that much yesterday and I reckon the direct route will have less traffic. It might be no harm to arrive in Villa Leyva on a Thursday rather than a Friday as I understand it's a bit of a tourist trap. It's certainly not cheap!

I decided to take 62, got on the bike and pointed towards the main road. I could hear the traffic so I stopped, fired up Osmand and took the small, direct route!

*It didn't take all that long until I was above the town and out in the country. I try to limit the road shots I use here but some days .......*



​It was by now after 9am, late for me but I really enjoy my breakfast in the Plaza watching people. It's a very pleasant experience to give myself the chance to soak everything up. I tell myself I'll pay for it later with the heat but I didn't come here to beat the heat, I came to see what it's like.

A bit of bouncing and climbing to get out of town but then, just like that, I was out in the country. I had a small road, decent surface and either interesting views or lines of trees, plants snd bushes. And such variety! I also had a hefty climb! Pretty much 700 meters without a break.
What I didn't have was traffic! Practically none! The usual motorbikes, a handful of cars and trucks were rarer than hen's teeth.

*This was a pretty steep uphill bend....... But that view!!!*



​With a sky rapidly clearing the heat was rising but there were plenty of roadside trees so lots of shade. I stopped frequently for shade and photos. The plant life was incredibly varied, colourful and very interesting. I'm no botanist but I don't need to know the name of a tree or bush to be able to appreciate it. Besides, so often they are crammed so tightly together that I think even a botanist would struggle to identify the individual plants and trees.

*Look at that for plant variety!*



​Two girls passed on a scooter slowing down to cheer me on, big beaming smiles on both. In fact, smiles were the order of the day. Motorbikes slowed to wave, people walking and those working on the side of the road waved and smiled. Pulling in to a store (probably the last for a while) to top up my water I was engaged by an old chap passing the morning with his friend. A group of roadworkers taking a break were there too and another couple of guys. In heavily accented English he asked me lots of questions, listening carefully to each answer. I replied in Spanish. It was very pleasant shooting the breeze at a little roadside place in the mountains!

*When I didn't have a view of open country I had scenes like this!*



​Onwards and upwards, slow but steady. As the sun rises the shade becomes less but on such a quiet road I could use either side as suited me. Some dogs were an annoyance, waiting until I had passed before setting off in hot pursuit. Invariably smaller dogs. One, in particular, really annoyed me, watching me go past then setting off after me yapping like a mad thing. He'd stop, wait for me to gain some distance then repeat.
I came across magic trees along the roadside! No idea what they are and they're difficult to photograph but the trunk and branches appear dead, a silvery, white, grey colour. However, small, delicate vibrant red leaves spout from the branches, a beautiful, vivid contrast to the "dead" tree. I was captivated!

*The "Magic Tree". To all intents and purposes, dead, or so it seemed to me, moss and a deathly white shade covering it, yet these remarkable red leaves in vivid contrast*



​There were a few places where roadworks were going on but on such a quiet road they were easy to manoeuvre around. With about half of the climbing done parts of the sky were becoming ominously angry and thunder started rolling. In the clear air there was a sound, a crack, like a single gunshot and then a low rumble that gradually got louder and louder. I had the mental image of an avalanche being triggered. That's normally the kind of thing that speeds a cyclist up but not today!
What did speed me up was a sudden horrible thought - I'd left my charger and two cables behind in the room!! Feck! Feck! Triple Feck!
The only socket had been at the head end of the bed, below matress level, invisible for a last look around. The white cable was lost in the white sheet and the other cable had been hanging down.
I was really annoyed but with 350 meters of climbing on the clock I wasn't going back.

*When I wasn't agog at the road I had countryside like this to amuse me. *



​Rounding a slow bend a woman waiting with some other people started a conversation and finished by wishing me a great journey. The thunder wasn't going away and while a part of the sky was always bright blue and sunny, the dark clouds were mounting.
At one stage, large raindrops started to fall. I could feel them but I could also see them plopping down on the dusty road - random big dots appearing before me. A short descent and they disappeared but returned as I started to climb again.
Near the top of the climb I pulled in for a coffee and a bite but had to do with just coffee. A little shelter encouraged me to wait to see what was happening with the rain. Nothing as it turned out.

*Another beautiful tree. Today was a slow photo day - I only took 146! *



​I set off again. Pretty soon it was the same - drops falling. Not rain as such, but the drops were big and wet!
Another coffeebreak at a filling station and the drops disappeared but the sky was looking ominous.
Rather than follow the road I detoured through Santa Sofia, a small, steeply built village with two churches and two plazas.
Enjoying the view the thought ocurred to me just what was I doing? Villa de Leyva is very expensive and I'm planning to camp. There is going to be rain - there's no avoiding it - so why not put up here for the night?
There was a hotel sign on the Plaza (even though the actual hotel was half a km away!) so I enquired and took another cheap room! 
I had a bite to eat, hung out in the Plaza over a coffee and headed up to the hotel as darkness and rain was falling. It took me a few attempts to find the damn place!

*Santa Sofia - a town of two churches! The first is becoming a ruin, locked, with broken windows, the bottom is, well, I don't know! I couldn't bring myself to enter! *




​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Oct 2021)

Day 763, Friday, October 15, 2021, Santa Sofia to Villa de Leyva, 20 km Total KM 12915
Min meters 2085, Max Meters 2401
Total Climb 300 Total Descent 435
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 26

I'm camping in South America!

It was a strange setup last night; a half finished hotel, no actual employees present, the other residents all seemed to be one group and nobody knew or would share the wifi password. 
After a shower I fell asleep half dressed and with the light on! I'm tired these days.

I did wake up at 4am but with no great distance to go I rolled over. 
When I did get up about 6:30 I took it easy, deciding on a coffee in the Plaza before I left. There's a fossil museum down the road that might be worth a visit and there's no point in being early.

*Early morning view from outside the hotel - Guatemalan levels of mystery and wonder*




​Coffee was pleasant in the Plaza, not many people around. The clouds were low and created a magical ambience. A group of men on one corner either waiting for lifts or a day's labour - I don't know which.
The land is filling up with large polythene houses which the old boy yesterday told me were tomatoes. This seems to be a productive, agricultural area.

*The indescribably freaky church..... and the lovely cloud's*



​I didn't have far to go to get to Villa de Leyva, about 20km and most was downhill. Like yesterday, the road was variable, especially around bridges when the surface typically disappeared. Not a problem, I'm in no hurry. 

*There is always something interesting to keep me amused*



​The road could be open giving wide views of the valley or almost enclosed by trees creating lovely shade to cycle through. Again, the variety of trees was a joy to witness. 

*The sun is still working up to full power and mist is still hanging around in the valleys*



​Within a short time I came to the fossil museum. As can be typical in these parts a couple of places try to draw the unwary in to a shop under the guise of the museum but I found the right place, paid my entrance fee and went to see a fossil.

This museum is pretty unique because it was built around the fossil! It hasn't moved in 127 million years! (It may be 172 million). Me being me, my usual disoriented self in a museum, I actually walked past the fossil without noticing it (I was distracted by the building!) 
It's of a crocodile type fish, and not small enough to miss! Unless you're me

*Yep! I walked right past this fella! I was captivated by the ceiling, all wooden beams*



​The fossil isn't the most interesting thing - the story is!
Back in the 70's a local farmer, an amateur paleontologist, spotted something sticking out of the ground and recognised it as a part of a fossil. And a pretty big one. He immediately went to a local landowner who was also an amatuer paleontologist (and his son). They got permission from the farmer who owned the land to expose the fossil, built protective structures around it and basically started to get the word out. The local civic organisation (I can't think of an equivalent, basically a group of citizens raising money and organising resources to develop their area) got involved and over time the museum has improved, the locals have been trained to look after the fossil and in fossil hunting and preservation. 
I can't see any way but they had to fight their corner to hold on to their fossil and they are clearly well respected because the museum now holds other rare fossils too. 
Without meaning to be derogatory, it seems an unlikely story in a rural area but the place is very impressive. It felt like I was walking around a success story. 
As is my way, the building enamoured me as much as the fossil!

The only disappointing aspect for me was the fact that there was practically no explanation around the fact that this part of Colombia was under water all that time ago. I know the world as we know it now is very different from what it used to be but my knowledge of this part of the world is appalling! 

*All of a sudden, it seemed, the land had become drier*



​Outside again, it was hot!! Pretty much all uphill to Villa de Leyva too.
All of a sudden the landscape became drier, dustier and a lot of pine trees appeared. 
There were a lot of MTBs on the road explained when I got to town and saw all the places renting them out. Lots of ATVs for rent too. 


Still early I headed to the Plaza on surprisingly wide streets, but heavily cobbled. I walked! 
The church is old and low, the Plaza wide and open. It seemed that a market was being set up with all kinds of plants. 
I got a coffee and empanada and watched. 
It's tourist central. That was pretty clear from the get go. Hotel rates are off the charts. There are a couple of campsites outside of town. I'm picking one and hoping the rain won't be bad!

*The very open Plaza with the humble church in the background*



​It was my plan to wander around town for a while before setting up the tent but the cobbles put an end to that. They are brutal! I did some more climbing and found the most wonderful campground and hostal. I have my own space, raised and with a gulley between it and higher ground so I don't get flooded out! A decent kitchen, the use of a fridge, decent wifi and hot water in the showers! Bliss!

I pitched the tent, had a shower, did my laundry and just as I was hanging it up the heavens opened! So much for exploring downtown! 
When it eventually lightened a couple of hours later I got to take a wander. 
Most definitely a touristy place and full of tourists but with none of the pushiness of Cartagena or Santa Marta. In fact, here, being a solo traveller makes me pretty invisible! I walked down a street that was full of restaurants and not one menu bearing person bothered me!

*20km today. But on a road like this! *



​There's actually not a lot here but there are lots of activities around here. Villa de Leyva has set itself up (quite successfully it seems) as a base to do other things. 
I have no more interest in ATVing or ziplining than the man on the moon but it's a great place to sit and watch people. Like I say, I'm pretty invisible.

*The mighty Roccado and a variety of trees*



​When I made it back to the campsite I booked in for another night!
Oh, it's a holiday weekend in Colombia! That would explain some of the hotel rates! When Booking is promoting a last minute deal at over one million pesos there's something up!

And I get to spend my first night in South America in my tent! 

I'm camping in South America! (That deserves its own paragraph!) 

*Tig and the tent. In South America! *



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Oct 2021)

Day 764, Saturday, October 16, 2021, Villa de Leyva,

A night in a tent! There's little to beat it! In bed lateish by my tent standards I enjoyed the delicious sensation of warming up under my sleeping bag (it's getting cool in the mountains and the rain doesn't help) while simultaneously my eyes were drooping reading the kindle. There was some music pumping from down the road somewhere but it was having no effect.

*A typical house on one of the cobbled streets*



​I woke at 4, in the cool, cool dark and rolled over again. No point in getting up!
About 6 I contemplated braving the cool morning air. When was the last time I was cold in the morning?
I got up, went for a pee and enjoyed a smoke in complete stillness.
This place is very pretty with lots of trees and bushes for privacy and decoration. A little, little río wanders through singing a bubbly morning tune.

*These buses chill my heart! Tourist buses, bright and gaudy, often full of drinking passengers and speakers that can be heard in space!*



​I gathered up my "kitchen" panniers and went to the kitchen. I'd picked up a few breakfast pieces last night so set about making myself a big, big omelette. There's free coffee for guests but I can't be expecting that at 6:30 am! I brewed my own.

*It took me a while to notice but a lot of buildings had very interesting chimneys!*



​I met Carlos and his wife when he sheepishly asked me if I had any oil so he could make scrambled eggs. They have a Toyota 4WD with a roof tent on a customised trailer. Very cool and very versatile. In a place like this they can take off in the 4WD and leave the tent and all their gear.

*A bit of humour!  "On October 13 1865 in this house nothing happened and nobody important was born" & a chance to pee on Corona!*



​I moseyed into town meeting a few yappy dogs and set about my wandering. One of the first sights I saw was a man on a bike with his daughter standing on the (sloping) top tube, her hands on the handlebar. An unorthodox way to carry a passenger but both seemed to be enjoying it.

*I really liked this old marker normally hidden by throngs of people walking past*



​There's a modern "strip" to one side off the town, recently developed but a decent attempt made to architecture to make it blend in with the original designs. In fact, one of the things I liked about the town was that in addition to all the touristy shops and restaurants there were "normal" businesses like adobe makers, wood sellers and hardware stores. Normal life continued on.

I don't like lists and gun to head I'd struggle to list three things I liked about the town. Actually, I could name one - chimneys! A second would be bridges - there are lots of small bridges. There's nothing here - it's the totality of the place that charms me. There are lots and lots of people, normally a turn off for me, but everyone is calm and relaxed. Other than the eating places there is no-one to hassle me and most of them pay no attention to the solo traveller.

*Apparently, this is what "real" tourists do around here. Once again, I'm a bad, bad tourist!*



​I could wander freely and just watch and absorb. I got a coffee with a delicious, but small slice of carrot cake. The icing was devine - not too sweet with just the right amount if citrus tartiness. But my eyes watered at the price!

I hit a few museums, leaving the best to last but it was closed! An interesting artist's house and another for a local who played an important part in establishing rights for all in Colombia. Interestingly, a part of that museum was an exhibition on the eradication of smallpox and the value of vaccines. Timely.

*In a town in the mountains there are always good views



*​I was back in the campsite for 3pm to take in my laundry intending to return to town later but the rain started about then and didn't let up until about 9. Stranded in the outside seating area about 150 meters from the tent I slowly froze. Taking a trip to the tent would have soaked me.

*The cobbles are brutal to walk on but worth it! I spent ages watching two guys trying to manoeuvre a big truck around a corner*



​There's a small restaurant onsite so I ordered dinner from Fernando, a very pleasant man who had once lived in Coleraine in Northern Ireland. Himself and the maid in the Peruvian consulate were the only (ordinary) Latinos!
He told me of a 19 year old German female cyclist who had camped here. Travelling with her boyfriend they had broken up in Panamá ( I could see why!) and while he went home to Germany she continued on. My kind of woman!

*Just one view from a little bridge over a barely visible río*​





I never did get to return to the town and my people watching but at least got to warm back up in the tent later.

*The market in the main Plaza was for artesenal products from plants trees to organic coffee and handcrafts. Some ideas here for those old bike parts!*




Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Oct 2021)

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Today had no business turning out the way it did. I blame the coffee!

I seem to wake up automatically about 4am these days but I had no intention of getting up that early. I snoozed and arose about 6am. It's cool in the mornings now!
I grabbed my panniers and toddled down to the kitchen to brew up some coffee. Beacause of the inhospitable weather yesterday I had nothing for breakfast except a type of raisin bread - surprisingly good as it turned out.

*Leaving town. A long, long line of traffic entering the town, a multitude of men trying to direct them into parking spaces and people walking all over, yet the place seemed calm, almost tranquil*



​I wasn't enthused about today's route. All on main roads, hitting the town of Tunja, a big town I had wanted to avoid. I wasn't even supposed to be going this way but I had spotted an old bridge, the site of a famous victory on the road to Colombian Independence. I'm a sucker for a bit of history so I changed my plans pretty drastically. My logic last night was that with the holiday weekend traffic would be light. I'd get to Tunja, fly through and turn south. Easy.

*This wasn't the plan!! A real desert vibe, exciting roads and lots of fun! *



​This morning, over my coffee, that didn't chime. I envisioned "weekend drivers", cars with distracted drivers, children, pets, or both fighting in the back seat, people hurrying to another activity or just distracted by the views. Or maybe having downed a few beers.

*At times like this I'm glad I have a gps! I could understand why so many places have MTBs for rent!*



​So I took out Osmand and with a bit of coaxing and mixing and matching car and bike routes I drafted a more direct and adventurous route. Slowly, very slowly I got organised. Drying out the tent, packing and chatting to other guests was very pleasant and not to be rushed. At any stage I could easily have opted to stay another night. Carlos and his wife were playing Disco music at a pretty high level. I suggested that they drive behind me for the day - I'd be flying!
It was about 11 am when I finally set off.

*I stop to appreciate where I am and what I'm doing and all I can hear whispering in my ears is ..... "Adventure!". *



​There was no point trying to cycle through the town so I walked. I'm surprised at how much I liked the place, despite it being so full of tourists. A final walkthrough can't hurt.

*This is so much better than the main road!*



​On the edge of town I avoided the main road and took a bouncy, bockety one. I was going to go cross country, hop on a main road for a bit and then back cross country to the town of Samacá. That would be the last place with accommodation for a while. The thought did cross my mind that accommodation on a holiday weekend may be an issue but I pushed it away. Today was minimal planning day - what could possibly go wrong?

*Never a dull moment!*



​There's alway a little element of surprise on these roads especially when plotted on Osmand. I wasn't too worried though - all the MTB and ATV rentals suggested that this area was good for a little adventure.

*It wasn't all desert!*



​It didn't take long at all for the dry landscape that I had noticed on the way into Villa de Leyva to totally captivate me. In a flash I was back in Texas or Northern Mexico - not bad places for bike adventure!

*Can it get any better? Cowboys! (And a Cowgirl!) *



​A maze of roads would have had me lost if not for Gizmo and there was practically no traffic. When there was it was three people on horses! My kind of roads!

And then it wasn't.

I came to a río, fast flowing and judging by a stick I used heading for close on a meter deep. I reckoned there was no way of crossing even carrying everything over my head.
I laughed - what else could I do?
A woman peeled off from some locals leaving a field and directed me back a little bit to a dual tree trunk bridge the locals use.
My kind of roads!

*The problem.......and the solution! It doesn't look it but the river was flowing at a fair pace. Walking across would have been very tricky*



​I stripped the bike, got Roccado across first, then all the panniers, lugged all over a bumpy path and back on the road. It was great fun especially when the trunks started creaking!
Thunderbirds were go!

*There's always some interesting trees!*




​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Oct 2021)

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Part 2

Not long after the rîo I was back on a "proper" two laner, sans shoulder. After my adventure road it was disappointing to be back on a proper one.
It didn't help that it was mostly uphill! Nor was I quite as comfortable - traffic was "unprofessional" - weekend drivers - and quite heavy. Thankfully, most was on the other side.

*Such a contrast! My heart was sinking and my enthusiasm flagging. I knew there'd be a turn back to Villa de Leyva soon and I was considering taking it!*



​I came to the village of Sáchica and turned off to explore. It was going to be my refuelling spot having only had some raisin bread several hours before.
Small, laid out in a grid pattern I found it neat, if a little dusty. The Plaza was dominated by festival things - marquees and amusements for kids. A bouncy obstacle course thing was popular, a type of carousel was empty.

*Sáchica*



​I pulled up for some empañadas and a cold drink and then slowly rolled out of town again. While there was a lot of people swigging from bottles of beer I saw no signs of drunkenness. On the way out a long line of cars were trying to get in.

*The countryside though, it was working away at me ........*



​Back on the road it wasn't long until I came to a turn off for Villa de Leyva but my adventure road had cured me of any urge to return. A long, long line of cars were waiting to turn in.

*Cliffs on both sides!*



​The problem I had now was a hefty, steady climb. With no shoulder and a busyish road it's not my favourite activity. The dry landscape and frequent cliffs alongside the road gave rise to lots and lots of gravel, rocks and sand on the side of the road too. That's the bad stuff.

*The views did not disappoint!*



​The good stuff was the amazing views as I went higher and higher looping over and back. Photos don't do the scale justice.
The sun was out ruining photos and it was hot! It was heavy going but quite enjoyable.

*I got to stop where I wanted. The poor drivers couldn't!*



​At one particular curve the wind was ferocious and after that wind, heavy wind, was going to be a feature of the day. Twisty and turny as the road was it varied from minimal to blow me off the bike in strength.

_*Something different around every bend



*_​When I started to descend the wind was holding me back at times which is so frustrating. I passed several people selling Pringles on the side of the road! Big flags, little stands and lots and lots of Pringles!

*This bike goes everywhere!*



​Rounding a bend I came to my turnoff.

*Despite the apparent dryness, this is farming country with lits of evidence*






*Looking back from where I came. The road is to the left. The wind was doing its best to hurl me down into the valley!*




​To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Oct 2021)

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Part 3

*WooHoo!!! More adventure!



*​If I was cursing the sun on the main road I was singing its praises on these backroads! It brought so much beauty and life to a place that was already beautiful and alive.

*It was hot. Very hot! But the sun brought glory and beauty - a price worth paying.*



​Gone was the dry and dusty, almost desert-like conditions of earlier - I was in farming country!

*Looking back.....*



​Generally flat with some short, steep climbs the views and surfaces made for slow progress. Minimal traffic meant I had this whole paradise all to myself most of the time.

*For a route that was thrown together in about five minutes it's sure turning out pretty well!*



​I passed what looked to be an extended family harvesting onions. It looked to be tough, back breaking work. All the full sacks though pointed to the progress made.

*The onion pickers. For some reason this gave me immense joy. I think it's the fact that I'm getting to see "normal" things*



​Looking back the view was always changing as I twisted around and up and down.

*Stopped here, I could feel something drawing me in deeper. I couldn't have turned around even if I'd wanted to!*



​I could have spent all day riding over and back. There was just so much to see and on such a rough surface to feel as well. It was only about an hour in total, but what a great hour!

*Definitely farming country and so lush in comparison to earlier*



​I descended out of the hills and the road regained its surface.

*Still a lot of wildness at times*



​To be continued......

*What a great road! What a great hour!*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Oct 2021)

Day 765, Sunday, October 17, 2021, Villa de Leyva to Samacá, 32 km Total KM 12947
Min meters 2100, Max Meters 2651
Total Climb 774 Total Descent 390
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Part 4

*A real road again! At least it was small! I particularly liked the bright blue roof!*



​Samacá is an agricultural town which became pretty evident as I got closer.

*Rolling down, hoping to find a place to sleep*



​I swept around the Plaza but because time was getting on headed for the only hotel I knew of. It wasn't where it was supposed to be! Both Google & Booking showed it (in slightly different locations), Booking had no reviews (unusual) and it was nowhere. Uh oh!

*The Plaza*



​I weaved back towards the Plaza, going up this street, down that one but the only hotel I could find was closed! Uh oh!
I got to the Plaza and did a lap. Up on top of one of the streets I spotted a bright yellow "Hotel" sign and checked myself in. A very pleasant young chap looked after me then it was a quick, quick shower and out to explore. 

*Evening mass in the church*



​There's not much to the town except the Plaza. A lot of the rest seems to be "under construction" and looks that way for a long time!

*And a close up*



​I got a bite to eat as night fell then passed the church as evening mass was going on. 
It's cold these days! My fleece was essential for wandering around. It feels so strange to be cold! It has been ages since I've felt cold!
I saw where there had been some kind of event(s) on the Plaza earlier. A number of white tents were still standing. Of anti-social behaviour there was no sign. I felt perfectly at ease wandering around.
It's a friendly little place, though. Stopping off at a little bakery the female assistant was very cheerful and helpful even throwing a few extra small things into my bag when I gave a small tip. 

Then it was back to the little hotel for a decent sleep. 

*Cookies!*



​It's an interesting little place. High up and attached to the building is a glass enclosed Statue of Mary, Mother of God, immuminated in slowly changing light. Despite the clear religious declaration, the only other people I saw checking in were two young couples, late teens, early twenties, no bags, no belongings except motorbike helmets. It was fairly clear what they were up to! 

*There are quite a few of these Renaults knocking around, not all in as good nick as this one*



​I had great plans of updating this but I fell fast asleep! 

*What. A. Day.*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (21 Oct 2021)

Day 766, Monday, October 18, 2021, Samacá to Villapinzón, 58 km Total KM 13002 (Sorry Ian!)
Min meters 2646, Max Meters 2935
Total Climb 1129 Total Descent 1012
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 23

Back on a big, big road

I woke up late not feeling great. I was starting to think that maybe I was developing a bit of a cold after my cold and damp few hours in Villa de Leyva.
With a tricky socket location I brewed up some coffee and ate the pastries I'd bought last night.
I sat outside to have a smoke and it was cold! Not cool. Cold.

I debated about having a proper bite to eat in the Plaza but wasn't feeling it, so instead mounted up and headed off - and upwards!

*Nothing like a brisk climb to start the day!



*​There was a big climb that started enclosed by trees but soon opened up into broad vistas of fertile looking farmland.
At the top of the climb I came to an unexpected village, had a pastry of ham, cheese and pineapple and continued on.
It was here that I became aware of the preponderance of shawls or grey woolen ponchos worn by just about everyone. In my head I tend to associate these (although more colourful) with Peru. There has been little evidence in Colombia so far of indigenous style.

*Still climbing but looking back on the town of Samacá*



​Despite the road being very quiet there were serveral bunches of people selling local pastries on the side of the road, usually on a bend, presumably because traffic is already slowing down. It just strikes me as dangerous.

It took about two pleasant hours on this small, quiet road to hit the main road - a massive four lane split highway. I saw immediately that my assumption that it would be quiet until later was very, very wrong. My side, the side heading to Bogotá, was very busy!

*Before the noise and the traffic and the wind and the stress there was this....*



​To see my bridge I had to cross this monstrosity, a thing that proved too difficult for both Osmand and Google. In the end I had to head south (up a bloody big hill!) take a "retorno" to the other side and roll back down. To get back to heading south I'd need to go north 4 or 5km for the next "retorno"!
There was also a ferocious wind in my face!
This bridge better be worth it!!

Of course it wasn't! In truth, I never really expected it to.
It's incredibly small and there's no information around for people like me. It's hard to believe armies fought a decisive battle over this bridge - I could probably take a good run and jump across the river it spans.
The amount of posing for photos on it was something to behold.

*The site of the Battle of Boyoca. That's the little bridge in the background*



​It's something I have noticed since México - the numbers of young women (always women) posing in what I'd term "professional model" style. These aren't face-the-camera-and-smile snaps, these are puff out the boobs, turn sideways, do that duck thing with the lips photos. I watched a girl in Cartagena do this rejecting each and every shot until she was happy with the result. 

I got distracted and talking to two security guards, one of whom fairly interrogated me. It was a strange, draining experience, question after question delivered in a monotone and with no reaction to the answers.

There was no way I was going to go 4 or 5 km in the wrong direction to get back on the right side of the road. I pushed up (steep and against the one way system) through the park and cycled the wrong way on the shoulder. Don't panic! Lots of folks do it here and the Police were good enough to ignore me!

*Before the carnage of the big road*



​I got on the right side and promptly pulled in for coffee and food, in this case, arepas, a kind of grilled dough with jam.
I wasn't feeling good, in fact quite weak and with a tough headwind and a steep climb ahead not to mention the heavy traffic I wasn't looking forward to the next leg. I even considered heading north to Tunja to start again tomorrow.

I set off not in the best of spirits. The fact is I am only going south to take a turn to cross some mountains to head back north again. The price of my urge to see a little bridge!
I had two main problems on the road. The first was the sheer number and frequency of clusters of places selling the local pastries leading to people with flags encouraging cars to pull in and park in the shoulder, while the second was all the gravel in the shoulder which made progress tricky at times.

*The Big Road! "Accordian" traffic jams, lots of arepa stores and cars blocking the shoulder. I've had better days on the bike*



​I had ups and downs until I started a 300 meter climb. To add to the excitement, angry dark clouds were swirling around.

To be fair, though, the views were excellent - wide open farmland, a variety of greens and interesting houses.

*The views though......*



​I passed the edge of a small town (on the other side) and thought about stopping but the one hotel I could see looked pretty poor and besides, it would leave a difficult day tomorrow. It was then I noticed what must surely include me in any top ten list of the worst parents ever! Tig was sitting on the wall of a bridge way back the road! I'd had him out when the interrogating security guard freaked me out. Dumbass!

*Intrepid photographer that I am I took this from the central divide ..... Then got stuck for 15 minutes waiting for a gap in traffic! Nope! I'm not sure what it means*!



​Near the top of the climb I pulled in for simple food but could only have another arepa. A bit stodgy at this stage. A motorbiking couple had their handbag dog with them! I waited as long as I could to see how he travelled but in the end couldn't wait anymore. 

It was almost all downhill now and I took it easy, turning off and heading for the Plaza in Villapinzón. I bought some ciggies and asked the shookeeper for a hotel around the Plaza. Nothing. Only on the main road.
I bought my customary coffee and plonked myself down to study the little town. A couple of guys were busy dismantling an outdoor sound system. I was very tired. Pleased that I'd made it, but feeling a tad under the weather.

*The sun can really work wonders*



​A pleasant man joined me for a chat. An actual chat, as in an exchange of information as opposed to a series of questions. He told me of a hotel on the way I'd be travelling tomorrow. I set off to find it.
Despite asking a couple of passersby and in a shop I could get no verification if a hotel existed or where it was. I turned back to the main road to one I had passed earlier. Pleasantly cheap, I dropped my gear, had a shower with the chill removed and headed back for the centre before darkness fell.






Still quiet, not a lot had changed. The thought of food did not appeal but I knew I needed something so I hit a little supermarket for yoghurt and cornflakes. Not exactly high cuisine but my belly didn't seem to object too much. Then back to the hotel to eat.

I ate and promptly fell asleep!

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (21 Oct 2021)

Day 766, Monday, October 18, 2021, Villapinzón, 


*The town took its name from this chap, Prospero Pinzon*






*The church*






*Sunsets can be pleasant, if very swift, in the highlands. Getting a good view can be tricky*







*The church from the Plaza*








*Nature's Fireworks*







*Some streetart. It seems that this whole area of Colombia was the source and scene of the Independence struggle*







*And some more......*








*Inside the very understated church. The altar, especially, was one of the simplest I've seen*








*The very pretty Plaza*






*I'm getting a little arty farty 😊*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Oct 2021)

Day 767, Tuesday, October 19, 2021, Villapinzón to Lenguazaque, 32 km Total KM 13034
Min meters 2603, Max Meters 3062
Total Climb 646 Total Descent 801
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 27 Ave Temp 20

It's all about the road.

There was no 4am waking this morning! I opened my eyes to discover it was 7:30! I slowly got up and wandered outside for a coffee. I wasn't feeling great and it was cold! The sky was looking ominous too! 

I got packed up and rolled down to the plaza for a pastry and coffee before hitting the road. The Plaza, in fact, the whole town was quiet. Not surprising really after a long weekend.

*The interesting climb out of town. What I'd managed easily yesterday (looking for a hotel) was tough work today*



​I climbed out of town on the same roads I had gone searching for the hotel. I never passed any hotel but I also realised that today was going to be tough. The road I'd climbed yesterday at the end of the day was kicking my ass today.

*I especially liked this ploughed field*



​Then I ran out of road - or at least road surface! I knew I was taking a backroad today but had expected a surfaced road. I'd even loaded a bike option with even smaller roads if I felt like it. I didn't!

*Dull and cold but with interesting scenery. It's so strange to feel cold!*



​On another day it would be great fun but today it wasn't. There were few places to stop and rest. The surface, gravel, sometimes just rock, sometimes sand or clay required a lot of attention. Even stopping astride the bike for a photo could be tricky because the rear wheel would spin on starting up again. The dark clouds and the cool temperature didn't help my mood. 

*And then the surface was gone



*​The climbing levelled off and the countryside did its best to inspire me but an old nemesis came back into my life - dogs!
I'm not sure if it was the cool temperature ensuring they were all awake or just the nature of the road - lots of farms - but there were a lot of dogs out for me today. To be fair to the mutts most were barkers and some quite cowardly. A few though, were a bit more determined. I took to getting off the bike. 
It's interesting. Back in the US dogs were coming close to ruining the tour. In CDMX dogs played a huge part in keeping me calm during a very strange time. These days they're, at worst, an irritation. Rightly or wrongly, I believe I have a much better understanding of the dogs and can tell which are harmless. 
Also, without the extra effort of going uphill I started to get cold. Time to stop and don my jacket. 

*Farming country. Lots of fincas (farms) dotted around*



​A couple of times I had the choice of staying on the "main" road or taking a bike route. At one stage I studied the bike route carefully (unusual for me) and saw I needed to ford a river. Looking at the sky I had visions of torrents so took the boring, higher option.

Traffic was mainly motorbikes, with a few trucks and cars thrown in to raise some dust. Traffic wasn't an issue.

*Tough climbing*



​I had one big climb and then a long descent to the town of Lenguazaque which I had decided would be my home tonight. The climb was tough, the descent too! I did get a great view of the town from up high, though!

*I was cool but the sun was over there! So unfair!*



​The road surface returned and I geared up for a fast descent. Oh Dumbass! On the second bend (and there were going to be lots of them!) I almost wiped out on some unexpected sand. I took it easy after that!

*Tough..... But pretty*



​The town, which looked so neat from up high appeared rougher at ground level. I trundled along the main street acquiring lots of stares, then turned up for the pleasant Plaza. I had a coffee and wandered over to an Hospedaje on the corner. A cheap room for me and Roccado was quickly organised. A little wander around - apart from the Plaza there's not much of interest. 

*A really great perk of these mountain roads is that I get to see my destination



*​Except for a football game! After dark a section of the street was cordoned off, two tiny goals set up and two mixed teams (5 a side) went hell for leather at each other!
They all had proper kit and played with a full on Latin passion. It was especially interesting to see the women giving and receiving as much as the lads. There was little of the drama associated with football in this area - rolling around screaming - probably because the street is hard, but there were arguments with the ref. A decent sized crowd were watching and cheering. 
I found out that these are two neighbourhoods competing against each other. 
An absorbing scene of small town Colombia.






I'm going to dose myself with paracetamol and wrap up for the night. Hopefully I'll be feeling better tomorrow.


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

Day 768, Wednesday, October 20, 2021, Lenguazaque to Ráquira, 40 km Total KM 13074
Min meters 2172, Max Meters 3033
Total Climb 636 Total Descent 1052
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 22

Hell yeah!

This morning started in a little bakery on the Plaza, the bike parked up outside. A man leaving as I entered gave me a fist bump and welcomed me.
My coffee and chicken pastries hit the spot and I rolled out of town. Again, I had bike and car routes. I could go either for a few kms but then I'd have to commit. The bike route had about half as much climbing and I was feeling pretty good so I thought I'd probably do that even if it meant rougher roads.

*A beautiful fresh morning!*



​It was a very different morning to yesterday with blue skies and a bright sun. Still cold, though! The countryside was gleaming, almost as if someone or something had spruced it up for me! It didn't last long!
It appears that as well as lots of quarries this is a coal mining area. Cue lots of big, heavy trucks and a lot of dust. I mean a lot of dust!
I hit my first traffic jam at what I think was a big coal mine. The air was filled with dust. The road which had a decent surface up to that point went to pot. Good practice for later!

Away from the mine the beauty returned. Nothing excessive, but very vivid. At least in the distance. Up close there could be an eerie silvery coating of dust on everything. I travelled a while under a canopy of silvery, dusty trees. A strange experience!

*A heavy coating of silver/grey dust cast an eerie coat on everything. Normally, once out of town my facemask goes in my pocket - not today! It was very handy against all the dust raised by traffic*



​The road surface had come and gone a few times by now and finally decided to emigrate to somewhere warmer. It was cold. I was bouncing along when I tried to follow the bike route - diagonally across a field! Uh oh. This was where the routes diverged so I had little option but to stay on the "car" route. And so began the adventure!

I had sand, gravel, rock, potholes, earth and crushed stone for most of the day. Unusually, most of the traffic was heavy trucks, laden or empty either going to collect or heading off to deliver coal or rock. Those big trucks can really dig up the road!
It was slow going requiring a lot of attention. A climb certainly didn't help. It was gentle enough but trying to weave between all the obstacles was tiring. Bends were the trickiest, typically steeper with lots of gravel along the side and trucks hurtling both directions on the wrong side of the road.

_*A tough, tough road...... But with lots of compensations!*_



​Some truck drivers were slow and cautious while others, especially those going downhill, just flew and bounced down jamming on the breaks and skidding for the turns.

It was with some relief that I pulled into the small town of Gauchetà. I was highly amused at the approach to the town on a "road" that would be insulting to proper roads filled with potholes of various sizes and depths that someone had put in speed bumps!
At least all the heavy traffic avoided the centre so the air was free of dust.
A quick coffee and a pastry and I was off again.

*Gauchetà, a very welcome relief from the noise, dust and shaking on the road*



​I'd been hoping the road surface might improve because now I was heading into a 300 meter climb. Ha! Chance would be a fine thing! It started rough, had a bit of concrete for a steep section then reverted to something that will never be used as an example of a road!

Steeper than earlier it was next to impossible to climb safely. Corners were blind and ridiculously steep, loose stones and gravel were everywhere and the road regularly had a dried out stream bed, and sometimes two or three, running along or across it. Time to get off and push.
Most of the trucks disappered but were replaced with lots of motorbikes and some cars.

*With height comes the views! *



​It was very hard going with very few places to stop and rest. Once, standing beside the bike having a breather the bike started to slide one way, I another. There was a lot of lifting the bike to prevent it sliding away as I pushed.

Dogs were an issue again today, usually harmless barkers. For example, when I realised that my bike route wasn't going to work I was on a tiny road with several farms spread out along the valley. A dog in the nearest farm started barking at me and soon the barks were coming from the whole valley!
At one stage walking past a farm I spotted Mr. Savage tied up and snarling with gusto. I was more preoccupied with his loose siblings who were running around me. On a steep turn I kept left to make it easier on me and unbeknownst to me almost came within range of Mr. Savage. He came at me silently only snarling as he reached the end of his tether. I spun around to see him mid air just as he was yanked back by his rope - about half a meter from me! I nearly needed fresh underwear!

It was still enjoyable though. Views were often limited but beside the road I had a variety of trees, plants, some flowers and cliffs, large and small. There's a lot of "fool's gold" in the rock in these parts and I'm pretty sure that on a sunny day it would look even better.






I met an older man cycling down the hill who proceeded to tell me that I had a long way to go yet! And that the other side was going to be harder! He specifically told me it topped out at 3200 meters whereas I was counting up to 3000. With a happy grin he set off downhill his work done here!

It had been cool all day. Despite Gizmo sometimes reading 24 or 25C I felt cool on the flat. Climbing kept me warm, but not excessively. It's such a strange sensation to be cold after so much heat for so long.

*I love this shot!*



​After a few false summits I started to roll down. I wanted to stop for a rest but there was no place to lean the bike. Too steep for my clickstand and afraid that if I lay the bike down it may be too hard to pick up again I bounced and shook and vibrated downhill. There was no relaxing, total concentration was required.






Going past a house two dogs came roaring at me, a retriever cross and a black and white mixed breed. I hopped off and started talking to them. The retriever rounded the bike then adopted the 'I want to play" pose of ass up, head down. I swear he grinned at me. I put my hand out, a quick sniff and I patted him on the head. Then he jumps up on me, paws on my chest for closer attention all the while his buddy's barking is becoming more confused. Am I friend or foe? Then he was gone, running back to the house!

A real treat of these mountain roads is that I get to see my destination from up high! Unlike yesterday, sighting the town was no guarantee of an improved road surface. I bounced down through the less salubrious parts of town and only a couple of hundred meters from the Plaza did a proper surface appear.

*Ráquira! I'm getting a real thrill seeing my destination from up high. Better than from down below! There was still a treacherous descent on the same type of surfaces though*



​Ráquira is the next recommendation from my Colombian amiga. It is all of 24km from Villa de Leyva! (If I'd taken a more direct route!)  I'm off to explore!

*Today was a very tough day, much tougher than I had expected. Hell, at one stage I thought I'd do the run from Villapinzón to Ráquira in one go! The surface, the traffic and the climbing all combined to make it slow, uncomfortable and difficult. These days I keep reminding myself that I'm in the Andes and that a price has to be paid for that. The Andes! On my bike! Me!
*Then I round a bend and I get a view like this*



​Is it worth it?
Hell Yeah! (As Neil Diamond would put it).
This song was bouncing around in my head afterwards.
Enjoy!

View: https://youtu.be/VEVNcbo_Tas


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Oct 2021)

Day 768, Wednesday, October 20, Ráquira



*The Plaza in Ráquira







The buildings in the centre were very, very bright! Away from the small centre homes were more "normal" for here, often unpainted and in various states of construction*






*Normally, such a sight repulses me but I felt like I had the town to myself. There was zero hassle and pressure to visit or buy anything*






*A barber shop. Barbers are very common here from very basic set ups to more elaborate with pool tables. The larger ones seem very sociable and often drinks are available. Beauty Parlours are everywhere too.*







*A very pretty Hospedaje. *







*Even the small things were painted brightly. This contains electrical meters. It created a very pleasant vibe in the town and gives the wandering bike tourer lots to admire*






*A steep stairs up and away from the little centre*







*I couldn't get a full shot of the building because of a parked car but there's a brightness, a life brought to the town by such buildings*







*I love this!*







*And one especially for me!*



​Chat? Yes Please!
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​


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Oct 2021)

Day 769, Thursday, October 21, 2021, Ráquira to Chinquapin, 31 km Total KM 13105
Min meters 2135, Max Meters 2605
Total Climb 630 Total Descent 233
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 24

Belly Problems

Breakfast was included in the rate last night ( Ráquira is a touristy spot) so I was down for 7am to be greeted by Toby, a big, friendly dog from yesterday evening. It's hard to quantify or describe the comfort, the pleasure that comes from a dog, big enough to roughhouse with, getting all up close and personal.
I enjoyed my breakfast of fruit and eggs and slowly got organised to leave.

I was feeling pretty tired despite a good night's sleep and my tummy still wasn't feeling great. I briefly considered staying another night but the hotel was at the top of my budget and the room was tiny. Time to push on.

*Leaving town. Hard to believe with that sky but it was pretty cool!*



​I set off with two reasons for optimism; the first was that I was on an actual road, the second that it was relatively flat, at least for a while.

It was bright and sunny, warmer than yesterday and the minor road was quiet.
After a junction the climbing began and that was where the wheels started to come off a bit. My belly started to feel very uncomfortable. Being such a terrible patient that was pretty much all I could think about. 
Progress was slow. Shade was rare as were safe places to stop. I pulled in when the two coincided. 

*Interesting country, twisty turny road and best of all, relatively flat!*



​The road was interesting but I wasn't in the frame of mind to properly appreciate it. Lacking energy, a belly on the verge of cramping and feeling sorry for myself is not a good combination.

Being farm country dogs were ever present, usually far off barking, but once, a nasty bugger led three buddies out a gate at me just at the same time as a truck was overtaking me. He got a bit too close for comfort necessitating a quick dismount. 

*I pay a lot of attention to those signs now! Subsidence!*



​Another animal that got too close was a lively calf! He was being jogged down the road towards me, a man holding him by a rope, another lagging behind. I was quite impressed at the calf's roadsense - a couple of cars had passed him with no ill effects. I was, that is, until they came to a bend and the calf continued straight on heading onto my side of the road. I'm not intimidated by a calf but like his boss I was suddenly aware of the danger, pulling up in the middle of the road and frantically waving down a car powering up behind me. The two boyos found a burst of speed which only seemed to spur the calf on until ropeman started pulling in the rope. Back on the correct side of the road we could all breathe a sigh of relief. My belly wasn't in the mood for veal 

*Lots of farmland but some places just can't be farmed*



​It had been my plan to hit the big town of Chinquapin and head out on another cross country route that will take a few days but will involve a lot of climbing and probably some wild camping. That was looking dodgy now with my belly the way it was. I had a 500 meter climb now and was struggling badly. I'd have 1000 tomorrow in one go and another couple of thousand before I hit civilisation. As time went on I focused only on reaching Chinquapin. I decided I'd stop there.

*And a wider view.......*



​Finally, I reached the top of the climb and set off on the "flat" plain. Ha! Dumbass!Everything looks flat on a little screen after a 500 meter climb! It was, in fact, a series of ups and downs, the ups particularly sapping, the downs a bit tricky with the way I was feeling.

*There's hardly a day goes by without me being captivated by trees! I really liked these ones*



​Then, as if on cue, the clouds that had been threatening rain stopped threatening and started to relieve themselves. I tried to wait it out under a generous tree but in the end had no choice but to move on. When was the last time I cycled in the rain? Costa Rica? 

*Today's río looks a lot like an irrigation channel. There was a pretty fast flow to it.*



​Having not planned to stay in Chinquapin I was a bit shocked to see the guide prices in Booking/Google. Not a cheap town! 
I arrived into the wet town and arrived in front of the rather dull, large church in the rain. A stray dog promptly went for me! Following traffic I wandered around, further from the centre and happened across a hotel at a junction on the road out of town. Pleasantly cheap, the very pretty lady allowed me to sweet-talk her into taking Roccado into the room. 

*I appear to be exceptionally lucky with the weather. Often I'll feel a few, big, wet drops but today was the first day getting caught. The skies though can be very angry looking, very intimidating, today's was just dripping mood and atmosphere*





​I went to a chemist next door for something for my belly and took a walk. The rather staid church that I had arrived at was anything but staid inside but looking up at the ceiling left me dizzy. Having not eaten since breakfast I needed food but could see nothing that appealed to me. I returned to the hotel to see a Chinese restaurant next door. Rice would do the trick! Home and bed! 

*The main church (actually a Basilica - whatever that is!) taken on Saturday with a market outside. Chinquapin bills itself as the religious Capital of Colombia (I don't know why) and there is no shortage of stores selling religious tat.*



​I took two days of in Chinquapin because I wasn't feeling great. It's not a town for staying in despite being billed as Colombia's Capital of Religion. It's not particularly attractive. My hotel, cheap as it was wasn't much better. But it served. 
I also decided to wuss out on my route for the next few days. I had planned on taking a minor road across to the Río Magdalene but that would involve serious climbing, a lack of services, some poor surfaces, wild camping and did I mention a lot of climbing? Instead, I'll take a longer route with less climbing but more towns. Anyone following this on a map is going to look and wonder just what the hell I'm doing!

*Inside the Basilica. I presume the chairs are a Covid precaution. I felt incredibly uncomfortable in this place. On the first day I put it down to feeling unwell, but I returned every day. Too grand. Way too ostentatious. Oiba has spoiled me forever!*




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## HobbesOnTour (25 Oct 2021)

Some more odd'n'ends....


*They sell 4 portion packs of cereal here. 4 portions for a normal person, one for a bike tourist!*







*Road subsidence - a very gentle example, only about the depth of my foot. These can be almost invisible until the last minute, much deeper (I've seen drops of about a meter) and because they are uneven and affect only parts of the road add a whole new level of adventure! 







They do like their speed limit signs here!*







*As always in this part of the world there are great examples of old vehicles being used normally*








*The sun is very, very powerful here and the entrepreneurial spirit is very alive! A man directs motorbikers to park up and provides cardboard to protect the seats - all for a tip.*







*Carts like these are quite popular for moving stuff around or as a mobile platform for selling anything and everything. *







*The hazard signs are very, very detailed! There are a variety of animal hazard ones which I don't know are regionally specific or varied just to keep drivers' attention.*








*This was a Police checkpoint set up on the highway heading towards Bogotá. I thought the inflatable vehicles imparted a fun atmosphere. Drivers were seemingly pulled at random and under a large tent were gathered in a square formation for what seemed to be a lecture or possibly question and answer session. Over the tent was a sign reading "Respect the rules of the road".*









*Storm drains on the side of some roads can be interesting for the distracted cyclist!*







*In the mountainous towns the storm drains can be pretty intimidating!



*​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Oct 2021)

Day 772, Sunday, October 24, 2021, Chinquapin to Puente Nacional, 42 km Total KM 13147
Min meters 1630, Max Meters 2658
Total Climb 246 Total Descent 1141
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 28

Rivers and trees

Today was the day I'd move on no matter what. The town had nothing to keep me here and my room, already small, was closing in on me. The only problem was that I was heading back to Barbosa, a town I hadn't stayed in on my first pass through. There was a small town, Puente Nacional, about 10km before Barbosa. I'd had good luck with towns 10km from Barbosa, maybe my luck would hold.

*Turning a roadside waterfall into a grotto. *



​I'd had a late night watching (English language) movies on the tv so set the alarm for 7am. I got up slowly, had a hot shower (for accuracy, there was no "showering", the water came out of a pipe), the best thing in my room and wandered out for a coffee. My stomach wasn't up for food.
Town was surprisingly busy with a lot of bikers risking life and limb breaking traffic lights with wild abandon! 
I packed up and hit the road.

*I do like the trees in these parts



*​Avoiding the main street I pulled in at a little bakery for a coffee and some sustenance. I couldn't count on anything along the road. Then it was out into the country.

The road was good, or so it seemed, and my "flat" profile was actually more up and down. I knew, however, I'd have a long descent later.

*Río Suarez in full, powerful flow! The sound was thunderous! Fall in there and no-one will last long



*​Out of ciggies and spying a shop on the opposite side of the road I pulled in as a roadie came up behind me. He stopped too.
Where was I going?
Towards Barbosa.
No, ultimate destination? 
Now I cringed a little. This guy was speaking very directly at me and after a moment's confusion as to why I was going north when everyone knows Argentina was to the south he told me in no uncertain terms that I was going wrong!
I explained that I was taking the long way, the scenic way around which only seemed to confuse him more. In any case he was soon on his way, no doubt questioning my suitability for such adventures.

*Another tree!*



​I toddled on pondering my attitude to Sundays. Sunday is supposed to be the best day for riding a bike on the roads because of the reduced traffic but that's not chiming with my experience. Yes, there may well be less traffic (but I can't say for certain) but the traffic that does pass is different. It seems more distracted and often is certainly faster. Still not feeling 100% didn't help my perception.
I also realised that my perception of the road as being good wasn't quite accurate either. It was good, except for when it wasn't, and when it wasn't it was really bad, often deceptively so. Today I had several encounters with geological issues, often hidden until the last moment and one of those was at 50kph! 

*Río Suarez further down the road. Still wild! Still roaring!*



​I'd eaten nothing for 36 hours until my lone empanada this morning so I was taking it easy. There were few views awesome enough to encourage stopping so I stopped wherever there was a place to lean the bike and rest. 

Then I came to the descent and began to fly. Of course, that's also when the views became interesting! More interesting was the road. 
These geological faults are really very interesting! Really dangerous, but really interesting. The road, or more accurately a part of the road can sink. The sinkage can be up to a meter in depth, a sudden drop and just as sudden rise if not expected. On two wheels it's tricky, on four it must be really tricky! Of the two front wheels one may drop and rise before a repeat performance on the rear. Lots and lots of cars and trucks therefore adopt their own line which adds to the fun. 
That's if the surface hasn't broken. If it has the sinkage isn't smooth at all, it's a bloody treacherous pothole of any shape and depth. They're wheel killers.
On the flat or climbing there's enough time to spot them, but descending, these dips are often invisible until the last moment. Throw in the effect of dark patches of shade caused by the bright sun and it's a whole lot of fun! 

*The clouds were very impressive today. They seemed powerful, ominous and the dark ones were frankly scary! *



​I approached Puente Nacional by turning off the main road and starting a steep climb. My initial impressions were not great and the town seemed incredibly quiet. As usual I headed for the church spire (or in this case twin spires) and the Plaza. It didn't take long for the place to change my mind. Yes, it was quiet, but very pleasantly so instead of ominously. 
I did a lap of the pleasant Plaza getting stares but also a few smiles and waves.
I parked up to get a coffee and had a very pleasant chat with a young Venezuelan. I was enjoying myself so much I had another coffee. Noticing that there was a hotel attached I enquired about a room - too expensive - but my Venezuelan waiter directed me to one across the Plaza. Much cheaper and one of the nicest rooms in a long time! It even had hot water! And a balcony!

*There's great variety to the flora*



​Unloading the bike on the street a motorbike pulls up and I chat to a local. Friendly, curious, a conversation rather than an interrogation. A sincere good wish for my journey.

I showered and went awandering.

It's a lovely little town. No reason for tourists to come here that I can see. A dull, redbrick church, inside and out, is outshone, characterwise, by the civic offices. 
Steep streets down lead to a second, newer Plaza with a multipourpose court/pitch (occupied) and a collection of pools and fountains (off). 
Big kids play football, little ones thrill themseves running along the edges of the pools. 

The bars, pretty basic as always, are busy but again I detect no drunkeness, just sociability. There are more shops open around here but no-one's buying. 






It doesn't take long to cover the whole town, up and down. While it seems like a prosperous town there is still evidence of poverty. Seemingly stray dogs are everywhere and the traffic, little as it is, slows to wait for them as they cross the road. 

*Suarez has calmed down. *




​It's not cold so I can sit in the Plaza, read my book and enjoy the sights and sounds of a small town at play on a Sunday night.

*Another great tree*




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## HobbesOnTour (28 Oct 2021)

Day 773, Monday, October 25, 2021, Chinquapin

I gave myself a gift today. The gift of a day. A day in small town Colombia.

After breakfasting, packing up and taking one last look at the early morning Plaza from my balcony (I had a balcony!) I started picking up the panniers for the trip downstairs when I asked myself just what was I doing? 
Here was a chance to see a "normal" town on a normal day in luxurious (by recent standards) accommodation at a very cheap price (€6,50). 
A quick chat with the receptionist/chambermaid and I didn't need to carry my panniers anywhere for at least 24 hours.

*The church. It seems to be getting a facelift, there are some scaffolding hidden behind the tree. Inside is quite plain and understated



*​I settled myself on the balcony and watched.
Every hotel room has a tv, something that I rarely use. Usually the tvs are ancient, reception poor and the sound seems to be arriving having bounced along a neverending tunnel. The news invariably features a story (with CCTV) of muggings or similar in Bogotá. Not exactly tourism TV.
I had no need of a tv here - I had a huge screen right in front of me featuring a host of unknown, yet familiar stars.
There's the old boys gathering under a tree for a chat, their working days behind them. The old girls stopping to chat with each other before going on, looking busier than the old boys. The dogs, ever present in these parts, strays for the most part it seems, walking, shnuffling and then lying down to doze.

*The Civic Offices. Every town has them, normally on the Plaza and always busy*



​There's a bakery right under me sending up pleasant aromas every time an oven door is opened and it seems like all the world pays it a visit at some stage. The man in charge and his two female staff are very friendly - I had my coffee there this morning.

*These mountain towns are hilly! Gradient is difficult to capture in a photo but have a look at the footpaths! *



​People visit the bank, the pharmacy and lots of people have business at the Palacio Municipal.
The Police are out too, uncomfortably obvious in their green paramilitary uniforms. Surely there's no need? (A news report last week from further north and close to where I passed was about the murder of two Venezuelan youths (12 & 15) caught stealing in a shop, held by citizens for "vigilantes" then found dead outside the town.)

*The other Plaza. In the foreground on the left a small playground, on the right the pools that are such fun for the daredevil little kids, in the background the now normal combi football pitch basketball court.*



​Later, small schoolkids cross the plaza heading home from school. The bigger ones come later. 
A conflict between a delivery truck and a garbage truck was settled amicably, the garbage truck and the cars behind it reversing to let the delivery truck proceed - against the one way system!
And motorbikes. Lots and lots of motorbikes. Solo riders, couples, entire families all bouncing along on one bike. Motorbikes seem to be equal opportunity vehicles - here in town there are as many women as men riding them. 
For Latin America the sounds are muted. There's no music pumping from anywhere. The dogs bark. Horns beep. And people whistle at each other. They're greetings, to attract attention. Not at all meant in an aggressive or disrespectful manner, so strange to my European ears.

*The primary school - "The Little Devils" The kids schools are normally painted with murals. I love them. They make the place seem friendly*



​Everything happened and nothing happened. I saw the world of a Colombian town and saw nothing at all. I took a siesta (the luxury!) and when I returned to my vantage point it was like I'd never left. The sun had moved, the shady spots occupied by new old boys. 

*Interesting street art*



​I took a ramble and resumed my observations from across the plaza on the terrace of a restaurant. The best food I've had so far in Colombia. The waiter spotted me on the bike yesterday. Dressed less brightly and more normally I'm still recognised. Questions about my trip. His female colleague smiling shyly at me.

*A typical house in the old town. Opposite is a refurbished version*



​Night has fallen and the plaza is quieter than last night. Kids have come out to play. Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great! 

*The Plaza at night was wonderful. Atmospheric lighting and a wonderful, friendly vibe. I love how the public spaces are used by all*



​There were a couple of things that I'd realised I'd forgotten to write about in the suitable postings so I'll stick them in here.

Back in Villa de Leyva, one of the things I liked about the place was the evidence of "normal" life, the non- touristy stores and businesses. I forgot to mention a most unusual (to me!) business - the rental of washing machines!
The man had a motorbike/trailer combo (rigid) and a few battered washing machines in the back. On the side was a crude, hand painted sign advertising his machines for rent! Presumably folk rent them for a day or two at a time. 

*One of my favourite types of trees at night*



​In Ráquira, one of the scenes that really charmed me was of a teeny tiny toddler in one of those circular walkers on wheels. His young mother was chatting to a friend while he zoomed around on the uneven path, she giving him a shove with her leg every now and then to keep him away from the edge. On my return walk he was now in the street - no traffic - and was zooming around everywhere. The street was very, very bumpy and his little wheels were struggling but he was loving every second of his expanded independence and freedom, his smile and his eyes the brightest I've seen so far in Colombia. 

*The Plaza at night - a magical place*




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## HobbesOnTour (29 Oct 2021)

Day 774, Tuesday, October 26, 2021, Puente Nacional to Velez, 28 km Total KM 13175
Min meters 1550, Max Meters 2142
Total Climb 792 Total Descent 287
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

No puff. But I got an orange!

The thing with such a small town at night is that it is very, very still. The problem with that is that any sound at all seems loud. So it was about 3am when a car alarm went off. Such an alien sound in this place had me jumping to attention. Sleep was a little unsettled after that.

Up at 7 I showered (hot water!) and toddled down for a coffee and pastry. They were so good I had another round.
I was in no hurry to leave even though the smart thing would have been to leave early.
I got bike and gear downstairs, loaded up and climbed out of town.

*Pleasant and interesting. That's not meant to be a negative description*




​Gizmo told me I had a flattish start, then a descent as far as Barbosa. Yes! Barbosa! I'd take a turn there and then climb 500 meters on a smaller road. There'd be another bit of a climb later.

I'm still not feeling great but I can't put my finger on it. I don't have a fever but at times it seems like a bit of a head cold. At other times my head is fine but my belly feels uncomfortable. Just uncomfortable, nothing worse. And tired.

*More pleasant and interesting!*



​The road was quiet, the sun was out and the start was easy enough, though more rolling than flat.
The scenery is interesting, not "Wow!" interesting but varied and changing with lots and lots to keep me occupied. Toddling along at a nice easy pace is the best way to enjoy it.

The descent towards Barbosa was trickier, the road throwing up all kinds of geological obstacles. Spending too much time looking at the scenery could have fatal consequences.
Approaching Barbosa (again!) I noticed the same as I did on my last approach, albeit from a different side. Lots of workshops lined the road, there was a lot of "Hey Gringo" calls and other incomprehensible shout outs. There was something of a sneer, a mocking tone and my waves weren't returned. It's strange how the tone of a town can be pretty clear.
I didn't have to enter the town, instead turning off and up.
Now the climbing began in serious - about 500m up.

*I do like the trees!*



​Traffic was lighter on this smaller road and within a couple of kms the atmosphere changed too. People smiled, waved and called out positively to me. Cars beeped supportively, trucks honked. I found it very pleasant. Only dogs were a minor irritant, barking and giving a half hearted chase after I'd passed them. Minor.

There were lots of twists and turns on the road, a lot of trees for shade (helpful since after my late departure the sun was high and hot) and the gradient was gentle enough with ocasional steeper sections.

*I'm paying a lot of attention to the road!



*​Pulled up at the side of the road two roadies were coming up behind me. The lead guy called out and tossed an orange at me! Delicious!

Later, I met Jesús coming up behind me on his bike. We chatted for a while and he invited me to visit at his little Finca (farm) up the road. I agreed but declined his request to swap bikes for the ride. He rode beside me often blocking the traffic which put me a bit ill at ease. Drivers were getting frustrated, a first for me and I couldn't blame them. Arriving at the junction to turn off for his place I baulked at the road - loose gravel and a sheer drop. It would be hell to get back up. I could get no meaningful distance from him how far off the road his place was. Sensing my hesitancy he seemed to become a tad annoyed so I decided to stay on my road, wishing him well.

Near the top of the climb I pulled in for a cold drink and a rest. I'd have a rolling platau for a while before the final climb to Velez, my destination tonight.

*This is really very pleasant countryside*



​My body wasn't working well. At times all was good but at others I lost all power. There was no rhyme or reason to it. After a stop I'd set off and either be fine or have to pull in again a couple of hundred meters later with no energy.

Unlike other days when I could see my destination below me, today, Velez was above me! And while the road was a road as opposed to rocks and gravel it was very badly churned up by the geological faults.

*The Church. The closed off Plaza is to the left*



​The town doesn't make the greatest first impression as I struggled and bounced up along through a variety of buildings in various states of repair. Another "town below the road" place I followed the main road for most of its length keeping an eye out for hotels then turned down for the "proper town".
It was a long way down!

My first disappointment was the Plaza - blocked off for rebuilding - but my disappointment was soon displaced by the sight of a saloon car bedecked with bright flowers outside the church! Parking the bike, out with the camera I weaved through the wellwishers standing outside, smiling through my mask, nodding at all and sundry, delighted and excited to get to witness a local, joyful occasion and taking a photo of the church. Then a bit closer. The bright, gleaming altar looked spectacular from outside and I stood in the door to catch it in all its glory.
That's when I saw the coffin in front of the altar!
Oh Dear God! I was grinning like a loon trying to photograph a funeral!
I was on the verge of wishing for the ground to open up and swallow me but thought that was not a good idea in this area. I slunk away and bought a coffee.
(The flower car was reserved for what seemed to be the "chief mourners").

*The interior of the church - later!



*​There was a decent little hotel down the road with a decent little price so I checked in, showered and set off on a mission - Velez has a small, local museum. Damned if I could find it!
Without the Plaza there's not a lot to the town. Steep streets make navigating tricky, buildings are functional and when the heavens opened it became a whole lot less pleasant to explore!

*A reminder of Colombia's history (We build the peace with our own hands. The change is now)*



​Rain in these towns is not like rain anywhere else. The streets soon turn to rivers and junctions can turn to rapids as different water flows collide and assert dominance. Pipes from buildings pour water down on the unwary.

I wandered around looking for shelter and some food and finally found a place. Afterwards, walking home was more adventure than stroll and I arrived back soaked. Stripping off and with nothing else to do I was tucked up in bed for 7:30.

_*I'm the last person to criticise art but this statue struck me as a tad ...... Amateur*_



​I saw this on an Irish news site and realised just what a different world I am travelling in.
Dublin City Council's legal bid to remove street art murals to get full hearing next March https://jrnl.ie/5584369

*Sometimes, these small towns are working with tight budgets and have to improvise. Earlier, I passed old tyres, painted in bright colours and stacked on top of each other to make flowerpots. I love this ashtray (in a tiny park with the statue above). So simple, so cheap yet with a whole lot of thought.*​



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Oct 2021)

Day 775, Wednesday, October 27, 2021, Velez to Landazuri, 53km Total KM 13228
Min meters 906, Max Meters 2587
Total Climb 661 Total Descent 1852
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 20

A magical, mysterious, musical, mountainous day - with a fair whack of rain and frozen extremities!

Anyone who knows me in the real world knows that I can get a bit hyper and wax lyrical about things important to me. Today, I did that in Spanish! 

*Nothing spectacular but pleasant, very pleasant*



​My room was one of those internal ones with no windows to outside. My only window was to an internal corridor. I'd left my rain jacket on the bike outside the room to dry overnight and I was surprised to see my trousers reasonably dry. My shoes though, were still soaking.

I got up about 7:30 and headed out for a coffee. There were a few raindrops threatening and it was cool and cloudy.

*I'm not sure if the tape is a warning or an attempt to hold the rock back*



​In no rush to get going I slowly packed up and rolled out of town. Stopping to buy some water in a little shop the lady didn't want to charge me! I was a traveller, a visitor, it was the least she could do. Looking around the pretty bare shop and the sewing I had disturbed her from I was very touched by her gesture but couldn't accept. 

There was a hefty 500 meter climb out of town that soon had me heating up. The road had several examples of pretty serious subsidence so going slow was no bad thing.
Traffic was sporadic and light and like yesterday nearly everyone was expressively friendly.

*I'm starting to take the "Geological" warnings seriously!



*​I still was suffering from random and unexplained bouts of low energy, like someone, somewhere had just unplugged me. A rest and I was good to go.

*Not "Wow!" But very pleasant



*​The views were pleasant, interesting but would never be classed as Wow! What I did enjoy were the reglar little waterfalls along the side of the road. Some rushed with a muted roar but others tinkled to me as I meandered up.

*Music!*



​There are times struggling up a long climb that I fantasise that the climbing information is wrong and that I'll summit just around the next corner. Of course, that never happens! Today, though, was a strange one. Osmand had me down for over 1100 meters of climbing but it made no sense. I could clearly see the first 500 meters but after that it was pretty downhill with a couple of bumps at the end. I couldn't figure out where the other 600 meters came from. *

*Lots of places to stop...... So I did! *



​I arrived in at the summit marked by the very little outpost of Palo Blanco and pulled in for some food. I had been hungry for a while. I took that to be a good sign since the last while I've only being eating out of necessity rather than desire. I've gotten out of the habit of carrying any cereal bars in my barbag as they have all melted!
I picked a place with empañadas on display and a few kids doing schoolwork at a table. Silly me was looking for Mama or Papa but no, the eldest girl, maybe 10 years of age, was the boss! 
I ordered 2 empanadas and asked for them warm. Cue her going to the counter of the kitchen;
"Junior, come here and heat these empañadas".
No response from Junior.
"Junior!! Come here now! The gentleman is waiting!". Whatever it was in her tone my plate disappeared for half a minute and was returned briskly. 

*The residue of a landslide*



​Eating, her little brother turned to me and started babbling. I explained that I was only learning Spanish and asked if he could speak a bit slower.
He wanted to know where in the US I was from. Telling him I was from Ireland confused him. And he fell silent.
A few minutes later he turned around again and had more questions, each one enunciated slowly.
Now that the ice was broken his sister joined in too and what followed was a very pleasant conversation. For a very young fella his questions were astute and intelligent. He even complimented me on my Spanish! 
A lovely lunch break!




​I layered up before heading off. I'd been warm on the way up but I had a long descent ahead of me. Ha Dumbass!
There was a heavy mist on this side, so heavy at times that visibility was down to less than 50 meters. After a few minutes I seemed to be below the mist but it quickly returned with some rain. 
By now I was cold. As I descended the rain increased in size and intensity. Yes, the drops got bigger. I pulled in to put on my rain jacket. 
By now I was very cold.
Down I went getting colder and colder. I'd ridden up in 30 degree heat. I'd set off from the summit at just above 20C. It was down to 14 now. 
I could see feck all! I could sense epic views but couldn't see them. 
All the time I had to be careful of the surface. It could disappear totally at any time. The geological faults could be anywhere (and were!). I had to ride the brakes the whole time with cold, cold hands.

*Before the summit with wide open views.....*



​That sounds like a pretty crap bike ride. 

To be continued.........

* Something went wrong with Osmand's calculations. I climbed ballpark one half of what it calculated. I've never seen this before. Climbing calculations are like a science in their own right and I have no interest in trying to figure it all out. Normally, Osmand is pretty close to what I'll actually climb - when I stay on route.
I'd even fired up the dreaded Komoot in the morning and it gave over 900 meters of climbing. Interestingly, Google Maps gives no option for bike routing in Colombia - not that its climbing info has ever been accurate. 






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (31 Oct 2021)

Day 775, Wednesday, October 27, 2021, Velez to Landazuri, 53km Total KM 13228
Min meters 906, Max Meters 2587
Total Climb 661 Total Descent 1852
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 20

Part Two

It should be a pretty crap bike ride but it was anything but!

I like trees and some of the trees looming out of the white gloom were just magical!

*There was a magical, mysterious shroud everywhere.........*



​The road, treacherous as it could be was a lot of fun. The further I went the more technical it became. I nearly came off when I hit a patch of deep, sloppy mud, again when I hit a stone, another time when I sank in some sand but I didn't. I wanted a bike adventure - this was a bike adventure!

*There was something to the landscape ..... When I could see it!



*​I could see feck all in the distance but up close was life. Pure, varied life! I passed by sheer cliffs with an unbelievable amount of plants growing and thriving on the vertical walls. Wet, glistening in the rain it felt like Mother Nature was putting on a show - just for me. "Hey, Dumbass", she was saying, "You think you've seen it all? I'll show you a thing or two!"

The streams seemed to be all around pouring down from up above adding a very pleasant water sound to contrast with the much less pleasant pelting of rain against me. Again, it seemed like Mother Nature was reminding me who was boss.






Bitterly, bitterly cold I pulled in to a roadside shop asking if they had coffee. Of course they did. I was directed to where I could park the bike under cover and had a coffee and another empanada. I dug out my rain pants (it was that cold) and my waterproof gloves before I lost my fingers.

Setting off again it was amazing the difference I felt.
The mist seemed to be thinning, or at least moving and far off scenes faded in and out. I took to stopping and watching. I'd be rewarded with a brief glimpse of a small house high on a hill, or a pure white cloud below me in a valley before the veil was drawn closed again. There was no point in even trying to take a photo. I'd need to remember.

*So much to see, yet so much hidden



*​The vegetation along the road continued to impress. There was a real jungle vibe to it. There's nothing like exotic plants, and lots of them, to remind me I'm far, far from home!
The road became ever more challenging but I was loving it. No longer shivering and with fingers that weren't frozen I could enjoy it all the more.
Pulled in at the side of the road, in the pouring rain, mist all around me it dawned on me that I was having a Great. Feckin'. Day!

*When the mist and cloud cleared......



*​I remember looking at Gizmo's clock and realising that I'd need to get a mush on or I could be caught in the dark. These are not the roads to be on in the dark.
I tried. I did. The sensible side of me told the feckless side of me to cop on and be safe.
My feckless side? Said "Feck off! I'm in the Andes! This is what I wanted! Adventure. On the other side of the world. A bit of danger. To see things I've never seen before. Feck off with your clock!"

*And when it didn't..........*



​Sometimes, in the distance I could catch sight of a little patch of blue sky. It seemed to be a sign that things would get better. It would disappear then reappear around a bend. It looked warm, dry and comforting.

I came across a man and a boy driving some cattle along the road. The young fella intimated that I should zip past but I held off not wanting to frighten the animals. A couple got too close to the rain gulley and slipped in, tumbling and tangling themselves. I could wait.

*Little tufts of white cloud trapped in the hills*



​Not long after the cows the mist really started to lift and if I thought it was good before Mother Nature showed me just what she can do!

I had views of mountains, layers and layers of mountains. The Andes! All around me!
Best of all I was looking down on little puffs of cotton cloud trapped in the valleys. Head in the clouds? Hell no! I was way, way above them!
It was still raining but I didn't care!

This was now the lumpy bit on the elevation profile so I was working up a sweat in the rain. The road surface disappeared for one climb so I bounced up, myself and the motorbikes weaving every which way like we were all coming home from pubs at different ends of the road.

*A wonderful, exciting, slippy, don't-look-down stretch of road. *



​Then the road flattened and narrowed and only for the yellow "no crossing" tape (Yes! Tape! Along a big drop!) I was an explorer. It wasn't a terribly long stretch but it was a magical stretch.

By now I was on my final descent of the day and the sun was even trying to get in on the act. The rain had already stopped and I was stopping with wild abandon. Trying to photograph what I was seeing was pointless. There was a scale that no camera could possibly capture but there were so many other components to the scene too; the birds were chirping after the rain, the light, glowing in the west was dancing on the water coating everything, the big drops falling from the trees could have been diamonds and it seemed that everywhere was the sound of falling water. A gentle wind wafted through the last lingering mist revealing and hiding, teasing. I tried to store it all.

*The colour! The life! The scraps of mist still floating about!*



​Rounding a bend I caught my first sight of Landazuri, a hodge podge of buildings and a rather unimpressive church.
I bounced down to the old town looking for a hotel and as is the way with perfect days the hotel found me!
Passing a hotel a woman called out.
Did I need a room?
I pulled up.
A man standing with her asked me what my day was like?
That's when I found myself babbling away in Spanish, about mist and magic, cold and rain, beauty and suffering. I think the poor man will think twice before asking a similar question again.

*To cap it all off the sun weaving some magic *



​I was home.
A fantastic day on the bike was at an end.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2021)

Day 776, Thursday, October 28, 2021, Landazuri to Cimitarra, 29km Total KM 13257
Min meters 173, Max Meters 936
Total Climb 246 Total Descent 984
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 33

Back on the flat and in the heat! 

I was awake before 6am, unusual for the last few days. I hopped out of bed and spied the bakery across the road was open - coffee! Yay!
I got dressed and toddled down and out into a downpour! Uh oh! Rain in the morning is very unusual. 
I had a leisurely coffee, then another and a couple of croissants. When the rain stopped I toddled back across, upstairs and started to get organised. My landlady even helped me bring the bike downstairs!
Interestingly, I spotted another motorbike/trailer combo with a washing machine in the trailer. I'm guessing renting washing machines is pretty common.
We had a chat and then I set off, bouncing along the rough street and around a corner to meet a traffic jam of all things!

*Leaving town this is quite typical of newer buildings in these parts. For one thing the red blocks are very common. For another, it seems to be being built in stages (or at least is unfinished!). The ground floor is clearly in use. It's not unusual for the building not to be plastered or painted. The height differential isn't that unusual either - these towns have some very steep streets!



*​Resurfacing the road seemed to be taking place so the road was reduced to one lane. When it was our turn I bounced along the rough undersurface then pulled in to let all the traffic past. Two dogs were having a great time chasing everything that moved. Stopped as I was one came over to investigate and say hello. Once I started to move I got the full barking and chasing treatment! They were in for a long day!

Once the traffic was gone I set off again with the road pretty much to myself. 
And what a road! 

*This would be the type of view from the house up above - only higher! The strange thing is that in the usual domestic markets that I am used to people would pay a fortune for that site - the view over the valley would be phenomenal!



*​I had all the vegetation along the road and on the cliffs as yesterday but with added views of mountains. The sun was beaming on everything and everything responded with beauty and colour. 
It was both so similar and so very, very different to yesterday. 

Of course, the fact that I was rolling downhill added to the pleasure. I stopped everywhere to savour. Not only was it comfortably warm, there was practically no traffic and I had birds (and possibly other animals) chattering all around. There weren't great quantities but few enough that I felt a part of the privileged group. And of course, the sound of falling water was a balming accompaniment. 

*I don't know but there is something about these scenes that just scream "Life" with a loud echo of "Mystery"*



​There were occasional clusters of houses and some standalone little farmhouses. Dogs were few and mainly placid. The road required caution, the surface disappearing regularly, dips, cracks and holes appearing at random. Hairpin bends were frequent and fun. I was riding the brakes and stopped regularly to let the rims cool down. 

People were friendly and expressive today too. Cars beeped and drivers waved, trucks honked, pedestrians called out. One guy in a pick-up levelled up beside me and we carried on a conversation through his passenger window. Motorbikes too honked and waved. 
*
I am definitely not in Kansas anymore! My road goes past that little red roof. I'm in the jungle!*



​I've found myself welling up a couple of times in the past couple of days. There have been many moments of pure elation, intense satisfaction, gratitude and beauty that I think there'd be something wrong if some emotion didn't leak out.
Truthfully, the Covid trajectory is a concern again. I'm watching places open up while others are closing down again.
I'm seeing a rapid decline in effectiveness of the vaccine after six months too.
It's not front and centre in my thoughts but it hovers on the fringes. I haven't checked in a while but by travelling to Colombia (and South America generally) I've made it more difficult to get back to Europe. Yes, I do think of having to bail out. 
I am so damn lucky to be doing what I'm doing and the last couple of days, especially, hammered that home. 

I passed an organic chocolate farm and cursed myself for not stopping. Spying a "Coco Lemonade" stand a little later I didn't repeat the mistake. Delicious and refreshing. What's my rush?

*Today's theme is "Life!"*



​What is my rush? I had no real destination for today. Down the road I'm going to be meeting up with the 45 again (the newer version) and I'll follow the Rio Magdalena past Medellín where I'll turn into the mountains again and go exploring the "coffee triangle". I'll be at sea level shortly (and hot!). I'm not expecting much of 45 except perhaps a decent shoulder. It'll be a rat run for a couple of days. There's a town just down the road .......

It wasn't all downhill and the few climbs were short but steep. Actually having to pedal exposed a grating squeaking sound from the drivetrain so I pulled in, cleaned and oiled it and set off again. There was a lot of rain yesterday! 

*A butterfly! I can't possibly describe how satisfying it was!



*​I stopped and savoured an orange sitting on a wall in dappled shade.
I pulled up on a long bridge and had a chat with a farmer. 
I stopped at a barking dog and he came over to be my friend and investigate my panniers.
Best of all a butterfly landed on the bike as I rested. Call me silly, but my recollection of any journey I've read from these parts is that butterflies land on bikes with great frequency. It hasn't happened to me - until today. To my way of thinking I'm becoming more and more of a bike traveller 

Dozens and dozens of stories pass me every day. Today, I was passed by a couple on a motorbike, the female passenger clutching what to my mind was a homemade set of angel wings covered in silver tinsel. What's the story there?

*The aftermath of a landslide. There have been news reports of unseasonably heavy rain*



​I rolled into the town of Cimitarra and promptly turned the wrong way onto a one way street. The first car signalled to me, the first motorcyclist beeped and pointed me in the right direction. I found the busy and noisy Plaza and bought a cold juice. 
It's certainly not the prettiest Plaza I've seen but it is one of the busiest. People everywhere. The noise coming from a few petrol powered ice cream cone carts. 

I wasn't terribly impressed but I'm a good way (in a lot of heat) from the next town. I took a wander, found a hotel (I'm back to choosing airco or fan) had a (cold) shower - a relief, did some laundry and headed out to explore.

*I could ride roads like these until I fall off the edge of the planet! Of course, it helps that I'm rolling downhill!*



​A busy, functional place I spied an empty Barber and went in. My beard is out of control.
I approached two women and in asking if they "did" beards I removed my facemask as a physical representation of what was amiss. Their reaction confirmed its wildness!

*Today's río. It's clear that it can be much bigger. Also, the life around a river in these parts is a joy to witness. There's a depth, a lushness and a variety that is mind boggling. Even the little ones seem to foster a huge variety of life.*



​I waited a few minutes until a very inquisitive and fast talking guy showed up and trimmed my face and head. One of the women wanted my phone number - I'll take that as a sign of a decent trim.😊
Then, again on the advice of the ladies, I set off to replace my trusty bandana. After several bike adventures there's a big hole for my hair to poke through. I'm surprisingly sad - I tend to get attached to things. My new one seems thinner and less absorbant but that might just be the "new" feeling.

I returned to my room planning on doing a few bits to Roccado but instead had an impromptu siesta. Then out for a bite to eat. 

*Do I need to say anything?*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Nov 2021)

Day 777, Friday, October 29, 2021, Cimitarra to Roadside hotel on 45 about 10km shy of Puerto Boyoca, 123km Total KM 13380
Min meters 118, Max Meters 197
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 465
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

Dancing Lizards and friendly piglets

I updated this in the park of all places last night just as the rain was starting to fall. The hotel wifi was iffy at best and the usual State sponsored provider had been replaced by a free to use (for all) and powerful connection.

I'd taken a good wander around the town, easily done as it was flat and laid out in a perfect grid pattern. There was really little to note. An industrious town rather than an aesthetic town. Unusually, there was no football court (I'd passed an unusually sad looking one on the way into town).

While sitting in the dark in the park about to update my Strava I was approached by a young chap and engaged in a slightly unusual conversation. He was alternating between Spanish and a very slow English. His Spanish was so rapid it was impossible to understand and his English so slow I started to suspect that something was up. 
Sure enough, he wanted my phone for a translator. To help him learn English. I said that we didn't need the phone we could just talk but he kept pushing for me to give it to him. It had started raining and there was no-one within the immediate vicinity. His agitation seemed to rise with every deflection and he rabbited away in high speed Spanish. The only time he slowed down was to offer to sell me some marijuana. After Cartagena and Santa Marta it was almost quaint to be offered only weed. I declined, satisfied his request for a cigarette and made my exit. 

*Clouds draping mountains - the perfect start to a day in my world*



​This morning I was awake, naturally, at 4am. I got up, brewed up some coffee and set about a couple of tortillas and peanut butter. Peanut butter here is semi liquid, nearly as juicy as my orange!

I was hitting the road just after 6am, the town only starting to come to life. I'm in pretty flat land now, no big climbs ahead and it was pleasantly cool in the low 20sC. I have a bit of a run on this road (62) and then I'll rejoin 45. My ultimate destination on this leg is Honda before turning off to explore more mountains - coffee mountains! I'll stop at a couple of river towns too. Or at least, that's the plan. Anything can happen! Tonight will probably be a roadside hotel of which there are a few.

*Rolling hills. These would charm me all day long*



​It's great to be back on relatively flat roads and zipping along. I was passing through interesting farmland with wide open views. Hills were rolling and nothing too strenuous. The road surface was decent and there seemed to be a whole lot less "geological issues" than yesterday. I came across one crack and dip weaving across the whole width of the road but it had been painted white to alert drivers and grateful cyclists. Traffic was light, respectful and happy to beep or wave at me. Great cycling.

*What a great road! And check out the fenceposts!*



​Then the road weaved around and through a whole series of small, rounded hills. Up, down and around. Very pleasant and very interesting. When I left the hills behind the road became straight and flat and I powered through some water laden plains. A few cattle were my only visible companions but birds chittered and chattered from the trees. This is farming country, cattle for the most part, it seems. 

Stopped under a canopy of trees beside a slow moving brown river (so still in comparison to higher up) I spotted a lizard, tail up, dancing across the surface of the water. Splash, splash, splash, splash and he was gone, hidden in the tall grass at the riverside. It's the kind of thing to be seen on Animal Planet, probably in slow motion, camera zoomed in so we can see the expression on his face. 
The next time I see something like that on the telly it'll remind me of a quiet little road in Colombia and the adventure of my life!

*Glorious, cool shade*



​I met up with 45 after about 30km and promptly pulled in for fuel and a cold drink. A cloudy morning was heating up and I was having to deal with humidity again. 
45 was busy with a lot of trucks and a shoulder that was rarely usable when present. I had an idea that later I'd have a decent shoulder.
A usable shoulder did appear, a good 15cm below the road surface. The only problem was that it regularly became too narrow to use, filled with crap or just ended. Because of the extreme drop between road and shoulder I stayed off the road and made the best of the shoulder.

*Rural Colombia. For some reason this reminded me of old, John Hinde postcard scenes of Ireland*



​Eventually 45 split from 62 and turned south. I pulled in for a cold drink and hopefully a bite to eat. I got the drink alright, but there was little food. I chanced a bag of cookies, which turned out to be a soft, cinnamon and ginger flavour. Not bad. A hell of a lot nicer than the teenage daughter of the shopkeeper who complained to her mother that I could understand her I just wasn't answering her questions and when I did, didn't believe me.

The road quickly became 4 lanes, split and I had a very generous shoulder.
I was flying along, although now the land was a lot flatter. The Touring Gods compensated by throwing a decent wind against me. It helped keep me cool.

*Freebirds! At my stop where I met the obnoxious teenager



*​There's a schizophrenia to these Colombian roads. I can be cycling on a perfect (or pretty perfect) 4 lane dual carriageway with a lovely smooth shoulder one moment and then for reasons I don't quite understand the road will be reduced to two lanes that may or may not have a shoulder. Hell, at times it may not even have a surface! A few kms later the perfect highway is restored. 

I had a destination in mind, a stretch of road with three hotel options along it. The chances of all three being closed, I figured, were pretty small.

I was really enjoying the cycling. It's great after a period of constant ups and downs to have a relatively flat ride. When I had a shoulder I could fly and was making great time. Before I knew it I arrived at the first hotel and pulled in at a large restsurant for some lunch. With 80km on the clock I was a tad hungry! 
Lunch was made all the more interesting when a random dog I felt rubbling against my leg turned out to be a friendly and curious piglet!
He sniffed my hand, didn't object to my scratching his neck and when I stopped would press his snout againt my leg until I started again! When he finally wandered away a young cockrel wandered over but was far more shy.

*These little hills fascinated me. Sebastian tells me they were formed by the river flooding this area then retreating.*



​After some scrambled eggs and sausage(!) I was recharged. I decided to roll down the road and check out options two and three. Once back on the bike my legs kicked into gear and I was flying again. Option two looked very rundown with a swimming pool outside that I wouldn't wash Roccado in and three was beside a police checkpoint - trucks stopping and starting all night long. I continued on. About 40km to the next hotel. 

It was great! I haven't put in such a long day in a while and I felt pretty good. The only issue was the sun when it eventually burned off all the cloud. It was hot! Very hot! There weren't many shaded spots to stop but I made use of as many of them as I could.

*And trees. There are always trees. So many different ones*



​At one stage a big truck pulled in to the shoulder ahead of me and I was particularly vocal with my swearing. Pulling out into the road to give a wide berth an arm came out the window and flagged me down. A pleasant, old face, smiling under a grey moustache put me at ease. He wanted to give me a lift! Load the bike and gear and he'd drop me off down the road. Instinctively, I declined, with gratitude. I was enjoying the cycling. It was only later I got to thinking that it would have been an interesting experience, up high, chatting to the driver. It's been years since I was in a truck, back when hitching wasn't the closest thing to abduction and death that you could do. 

*Eating sausage and eggs and meeting sausage and eggs! The little piglet was very sociable*



​The hotel, when I arrived was modern and I got a room on the ground floor. Sebastian called down from an upstairs balcony then came down to invite me up for a beer. He's an archaeologist staying in town while looking for artefacts in the local area but was thrilled at the idea of travelling by bike. He had a driver, Carlos, who drove us by backroads to get to a shop which turned out to be a bar in the middle of nowhere. They bought beer, I bought water and we bounced back to the hotel.
I grabbed a bite to eat at a restaurant next door (where they could have bought their beer!) and with no working internet I soon passed out on the bed under the fan. Did I say it was hot? 

*Three rivers today!*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2021)

Day 778, Saturday, October 30, 2021, Roadside hotel to La Dorada, 83km Total KM 13463
Min meters 159, Max Meters 237
Total Climb 252 Total Descent 229
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 33

A chance meeting! 

It's hot again at night! Having chosen the cheaper fan only room I slept only ok, at one stage being wide awake at 3am!
I got up about 6am and set about brewing up some coffee. I finished off the cookie type things I'd bought yesterday and slowly started to get packed. I was in no real rush. My plan was to hit Puerto Boyoca, suss it out and then decide what to do. I know I was starting out later than yesterday but it already felt hotter.

I was soon rolling along at a reasonable pace making the most of the decent shoulder. Because I'd pushed the boat out yesterday I only had about 10km to Puerto Boyoca and soon turned off the highway, was waved through a Police checkpoint (only interested in motorbikes) and bounced along the long and rough road into the town.

As always, first stop the Plaza, a new design it seemed, surprisingly open, lacking trees and with several purpose built food and drink stands around the edges. This is the first time I've seen this here, although most were still closed that early in the morning.

*The monument to Peace on the plaza, made, I believe from the melted weaponry of the AUC, one of the far right paramilitary groups who fought the FARC amongst others. A murky history involving state collusion against the FARC, the leaders supposedly trained by the Israelis and funded by big corporations and the drugs trade. The monument declares that this is the time to create a new history, to be able to disagree without becoming enemies.*



​I did a lap, stopping to read a monument to Peace, then pulled up at an open stand for a coffee and empanadas. A very pleasant lady looked after me and when I heard her practicing her English we had a chat about Duolingo. She's learning English to keep up with her kids. 

I mounted up again and needing cash sought out a bank then turned towards the reason I was here - The Río Magdalena! 
Well, I'm not in Kansas anymore!
I love rivers and I've been enchanted by them from the Shannon in Ireland to the Elbe, The Rhine, The Maas, The Danube in Europe and the Mississippi in the States. The Río Magdalena occupies a similar status in Colombia, a driver of development and wealth. 
You wouldn't think it from my vantage point!

Trying to find a place to just see the river was a fruitless and slightly uncomfortable experience. There's certainly no development along the shore and the couple of places I got close the buildings could generously be described as shacks. A disappointment. I'd harboured an image of nice places to sit and just watch the river flow by. Maybe have a bite to eat. That wasn't going to happen! 

*My first view of the Río Magdalena. That's not a road but a dyke. Behind it (where I'm standing) a rough road filled with shacks. Not a place for lingering and relaxing.*



​On to the next town! 

I bounced my way back out of town, now coming more to life, found the church, absent from the "new" Plaza and rejoined the highway. 

Carlos, one of the guys from last night and local, had warned me to be careful in Puerto Boyoca. Medellín and this area was the stomping ground of Pablo Escobar and while he's long gone the remnants of his gang and methods live on. There's always something of an edge to port cities in my experience. I appreciated his warning for the fact that it was from a local and delivered factually. There was no "Don't go there", no "You're going to get mugged or worse", just some advice and background info.

*There's a church in there somewhere with a bright but teeny tiny park.*



​Like yesterday there were sections of only two lanes and some of those were a trial with no shoulder and a dodgy road surface. On the decent shoulder, though, I could power along. Because of a lot of cloud I felt like I was being steamed alive, although a pretty forceful wind was keeping me cool. 

I stopped for a cold drink and got chatting to an old chap about the bike. At first, I thought my Spanish was letting me down but as the conversation progressed it became clear that he wasn't the full shilling. No harm and a good workout for my Spanish.

*When the road was bad it was really, really bad!*



​Like yesterday there were a lot of the little hills that charm me so much. Some of them were partially collapsed so I got to see that there was actually a thin layer of soil and grass over some pretty dry looking rock. I was glad to have distractions on either side since the road was pretty much straight! 

You see lots of unusual things on the roads here. Today, it was a guy pushing a cart in the shoulder. His cart was piled high with bags and bags of plastic bottles. I've no idea where he was going with them but wherever it was he had a long, hot push!

*When it was good it was excellent! I found the countryside, especially the constant hills to be very interesting*



​I was peed off when a powerful motorbike carrying two guys pulled into the shoulder ahead of me. For feck's sake why in front sending me out into the road???
As I rode past I heard "Irish!" from behind a helmet. There's only one guy that calls me that and he's safely back in NL. I pulled in to discover it was Pedro who I'd met on the side of the road about a month ago! What a small feckin' world we live in!
His brother was the other guy and they are thinking about a road trip to Peru together. His brother certainly had very romantic notions of the life of a vagabond traveller, mainly centring around the notion of a different "chica" in every town. I think he has visions of leaving a trail of weeping señoritas behind him!😀

*In an attempt to keep my anonymity I will not say who is who *



​About 10km from La Dorada I pulled in to the first "fancy" petrol station I've seen since the coast. Airco!!! I sat and had a cold drink and a snack. A break from the sun was no bad thing.

I took off again with much gusto for the last short leg. I was making great time and would have lots of time to explore. But first I had to cross the river! 

*I was really enjoying the countryside. I still have problems processing all the green combined with the heat and power of the sun*



​A bunch of greenery in the road wasn't unusual enough to draw my attention but when a motorbike zipped past it it sprung to life as a large, bright green iguana and nearly darted under my front wheel! There's never a dull moment!

*More strange animal signs*



​I do like my river crossings and I figured crossing the Magdalena would be special. It was, alright, but not in the way I expected!
Bikes were directed onto a pedestrian path which was so narrow getting padt anyone would be tricky. While the river side was fenced, the bridge side had gaps that allowed me to see right down to the surging river. Not a great fan of heights I walked the bike, trying not to get disoriented. To add dizziness to a touch of vertigo the bridge swayed and swung in horrifying fashion with all the traffic. I was incredibly uncomfortable and only snapped two photos, each time terrified that I'd drop the phone and see it consumed by the river.

*A very unpleasant crossing!*



​It was a relief to get off the damn thing and join the flow of traffic heading for the centre. I'd stopped earlier and booked a cheap place on Booking but first headed for the Plaza. Traffic was so busy I aborted my attempt and found the hotel. More feckin' stairs! And I discovered why it was cheap!

A shower and out to explore.

*The Río Magdalena from the bridge. It was flowing at a ferocious pace! *



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Nov 2021)

Day 778, Saturday, October 30, 2021, La Dorada

*A very pleasant little Plaza outside of town. I actually cycled past this and didn't notice it so traumatised was I by the bridge!*







*In the middle of no-man's land I came across this beauty!*






*This looks like an old station house*








*The church and the main Plaza. A biker rally was taking place over the weekend*







*An interesting bike themed sculpture or mural*







*There were some eating places along the river. This one especially spoke to me. The bright tree really made an impression and I just love the animal made from a tyre and a piece of pipe*









*This is the roadway along a section of the river. Not quite what I'm used to*







*Tourist boats are the only "big" boats on the river in these parts. Interestingly, the big one is powered by two outboards. It really struggled going against the current *







*The disappointing and dilapidated Plaza*






*Río Magdalena



*

​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (3 Nov 2021)

Day 779, Sunday, October 31, 2021, La Dorada to Honda, 38km Total KM 13501
Min meters 193, Max Meters 255
Total Climb 207 Total Descent 183
Min Temp 32 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 35

A land of hobgoblins or something else?

Getting out of La Dorada was a whole lot more straightforward on a Sunday morning than on a Saturday afternoon!
I'd slept poorly, too hot and with a whole lot of noise from outside. I guess a biker rally can be noisy!
I woke up about 2:30 am when some people came back to the hotel and had a conversation at a level that only drunk people can have. I checked my phone and had a bit of wifi signal so I got to update this, then back to sleep.

When I woke up properly, it was late, about 7 and it was to the sound of falling rain. I made a coffee in my room and felt lazy.
Then I packed up, got everything downstairs and set off to the first bakery for a bit of breakfast. Finally, I was on my way.

*Way off in the distance strange hills started to take shape. As I cycled along they became clearer. The pointy one in particular, fired up my imagination.*



​The road was great, two lanes, a shoulder that was baby bum smooth most of the way and I didn't have too far to go - about 30km. I took it easy.
There was nothing remarkable about the landscape but it was interesting and varied. Mountains are looming again but still far off. Or so I thought.

I started seeing hills looming up on my right and was captivated by their unusual and irregular shapes. Not high, they were very unusual, covered in vegetation and put me in mind of hobgoblins and snorks and all kinds of magical creatures that were sure to inhabit them. 

*An early morning río with the added bonus of an old bridge*



​Trying to stop and take a photo of them was tricky on the side of the road so when I saw a sign for "Services" I pulled in hoping for a cold drink and a decent vantage point.
Either "Services" means something else in Colombia or the place has failed but there was no store (or anything much) in the very large building. There was, though, a gate giving me a perfect picture of one of the most captivating hills. Two security guards came over to check me out and I told them I'd been admiring this magical mountain for a while and just wanted a photo. I enquired if it had a name. Cerro de Teta I was told! (I don't really need to translate that, do I!) So there I'd been cycling along entranced by a magical mountain and all the fantastical creatures that lived on it and all everyone else saw was a giant boob! What would Mr. Freud make of that?

This was another one that I was tracking from far off. Cerro de teta! 





A little later I pulled off to visit the little town of Guarinocito. Just across from the pleasant Plaza I stopped for a cold drink and met Samwell, the popreitor of the shop. We had a pleasant chat. He told me that the river isn't used for cargo anymore, just local fishermen in canoe type boats and the occasional tourist boat. I'm not going to be seeing any barges at all.

*More oddly shaped hills later on. The fact that they just seem to rise up out of the ground just adds to their mystery and allure*



​It's a funny old world. For this trip a lot of people expressed concern and gave warnings to be careful - México, Honduras, Nicaragua and now Colombia. Well intentioned, of course, but based on general bits and pieces picked up on the news and probably movies and books too. Being Irish, I can get the same in reverse - about Northern Ireland. It's been a regular question outside of the US but seems especially more common in Colombia. (There are good reasons for that). 

Over in the Plaza a bunch of kids of all ages and sizes were being entertained by The Flash and enjoying themselves immensely it seemed. Tomorrow, November 01 is a Public Holiday and like a lot of places, Halloween is taking over from the traditional religious basis. 

*The pleasant and happy Plaza in Guarinocito*



​I said my goodbyes to Samwell who called out his wife to take several photos of him with the mad lad on his bike. Just as I was rolling away he presented me with two brand new facemasks! 

It took longer than it should have to cover the last few kms but I was in no real rush. I stopped often to enjoy some shade. 
Spying the top of a suspension bridge on a different road I took a detour since I'm still looking for a good bridge crossing!

*A lovely tree guarding the Plaza*



​Honda is a strictly demarcated town - there's Uptown, literally up high that has old preserved, bright architecture and there is the Downtown that is like another world. 
I took another detour across a bridge I didn't need to cross for another ariel view of the river. The river is flowing furiously at the moment. Along the shore there are temporary homes made from plastic and scraps of wood and metal.
Frankly, it was a relief to get out of it and up a lump of a hill to a pleasant church and little Plaza.

*Going off course to a bridge......*



​Now I knew why any hotel seemed so expensive - another holiday weekend - and I quickly figured out there was nothing in my price range in Uptown. I fell to my backup plan - forget accommodation for the moment and visit the Río Magdalena museum. Osmand tried to kill me (unusual) on an almost vertical, cobbled street but I weaved around and found the museum in an old building, the entrance up a big series of steps. A museum that was actually open!!
I asked the ticket girl about the bike and she was adamant it should not be left unattended. I could bring it upstairs if I liked but the museum was open later due to the holiday if I wanted to find a hotel and return.
That sounded better! Like another person I had asked she had no idea of a hotel in her own town so it was up to my own devices. iOverlander only had a few all well out of town. The choice seemed to be luxury or a dive.
I found a dive. This is one place that I won't be remembering - someone even kept an eye on my bike in the street as I was checking in! 

*At last! A proper view of the Río Magdalena!*



​I got changed and ran back to the museum. It's small, quaint, pretty basic and absolutely wonderful! I had a lovely time! 
Along one wall is painted the course of the river from source to sea with the towns marked off, a real labour of love stretching the length of the building. There is information about the fish and fishermen on the river, the myths of the river (always interesting!) and pictures and a scale model of the old paddle steamers. Honda was the the main place the steamboats departed from on their way downriver to the coast. I was in my element! They had a little room with loads of books where I could sit down and read. Such a simple idea, but so good! I picked up one book, Colombia from the air, and marvelled at alternative views of where I have been. 

*I put this photo in here especially for all those of you in the dark, cold and wet part of the world!  No need to thank me!*



​I wandered back to Uptown in time to catch a wedding couple have their photos taken in front of the (closed) church. It seemed terribly stage managed and the groom was looking uncomfortable and acting like he was made of wood. As well as a professional photographer and his assistant they also had a drone guy. 
I hate feckin' drones! 

*The old church high atop the hill*



​I wandered back to Downtown, very busy. Lots of people in costumes for Halloween. Entrepreneurs had set up little Halloween backdrops where for a few pesos kids could get their photos taken, some with a character. Of course, that meant that all the printing & copying places were packed too.

There was nothing remarkable to notice, certainly no interesting buildings. I retired to my hotel. 

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (4 Nov 2021)

Day 780, Monday, November 01, 2021, Honda to Fresno, 46km Total KM 13547
Min meters 219, Max Meters 1485
Total Climb 1500 Total Descent 263
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 30

Man, I feel like a cyclist! (Yes! That is a Shania Twain reference - sometimes my musical taste brings me to strange places!)

I didn't have a shower yesterday since I formed the opinion that I'd come out dirtier than I went in. I passed this morning too! Up for 5am I brewed up some coffee and drank it on the little balcony. Yes! I had a balcony - nothing like the one last week, though.

I'd slept ok having bought more alcohol and thoroughly spraying everything then laying out my sleeping bag liner. The fan was ceiling mounted directly above me and worked well. There seemed to be some kind of motorbike thing going on here too as at some stage several hundred motorbikes revved and beeped their way down the street. 

*There's a lot of work required to keep the roads safe in these parts. Geological issues and unbelievable rain for half thf year all have an impact. Look at the boulder Roccado is leaning against and the water channel*



​I got my gear downstairs, retrieved the bike from the storeroom and started loading up. The proprietor watched intently. In fact, a lot of people watch me. I think they're a bit amazed at where everything goes.

I rolled out of town not having any urge to stop and eat. The town didn't sit well with me and I saw no reason for tarrying. I'd picked up a couple of bananas last night and figured on stopping for a roadside picnic.

First stop would be Mariquita about 21km up the road. Up being the operative word. In a few days I'll be well above 3500 meters again. 
The road was great, two lanes and a decent shoulder. The gradient was kind too so I could roll pleasantly along.

*Which is more interesting; The rubble strewn across the road or the mysterious mountain?*



​Getting caught for roadworks is not something the typical traveller enjoys but for me it's a great sign. It means that on the other side the traffic will be broken up and I'll have large sections all to myself! 

The guys were reinforcing a cliff and it was easy to see why - a couple of big boulders on the road. Forgetting about the stop/go one way only nature I stopped for photos and then got caught in the oncoming traffic. Oh, what's my rush?

*Before the rain. The rain explains the sheer depth of green. I'm still not used to it. I can be riding in oppressive heat being burned by the sun, confused by all the green until the rain starts. Then I understand*



​Then a light drizzle started but I was warm and continued on chuckling at a motorcyclist stopping to don his raingear. I was swiftly punished for my sense of superiority when the drizzle became a whole lot heavier! Rainjacket time!

*Today's río, very fast and wild*



​I was really annoyed because some interestingly shaped hills had been moving into camera range but were now hidden in rain and mist.

*A brief moment of clarity*



​The cycling was fine, I wasn't cold but a layer of water quickly built up on the road meaning I got a good spray whenever a truck passed. I passed quite a few abandoned factories. I've no idea what they used to make but they had that same design of old factories everywhere.

*Donning my arty farty head I call this "Old Friends"*



​I took heart when I saw oncoming motorcyclists pulling in to don their rain gear and sure enough the rain lightened then stopped altogether as I arrived in Mariquita. 



​A totally different town to Honda, it struck me as having spread out from an old centre in an organised way. I arrived at the disappointing Plaza, open with few trees and pulled in for an empanada and coffee. 

*Mystery! I love seeing these scenes along the road - they fire up my imagination



*​I rested up and then rolled out of town again to meet a sign from the Colombian Cycling Club no less! Apparently, this next 80km of road is quite famous for cycling! It talks of 3800 meters climbing in the next 80km! 

*Another río, angry, violent and very, very fast*



​Apparently my haphazard planning skills have fluked this one! I seem to be in for an epic couple of days!







To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Nov 2021)

Day 780, Monday, November 01, 2021, Honda to Fresno, 46km Total KM 13547
Min meters 219, Max Meters 1485
Total Climb 1500 Total Descent 263
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 30


Part 2. 

They weren't kidding at the CCC! The road took off at a ferocious gradient! The first few cars passed a bit close but things soon settled down. This road had no shoulder at all and seemed narrow at times, partly due to a lot of vegetation on each side. There was a rain gulley that sometimes was flat enough to use in emergency but generally it was too steep, filled with tree branches, fruit and leaves and usually had a green mossy slime. I'd be best avoiding.
Thankfully, my side of the road had the least traffic.

*As I climbed the mist lifted revealing some of the mountains hidden to me earlier*



​After a couple of days of long, flat roads this one wasn't straight at all! Bend after bend after bend, some horribly steep but I nearly always had a place to stop and rest. Beside the rain gulley was a kerb most of the time. Prop the bike on one piece and my ass on another. I don't know if the sign at the start of the climb was having an effect on me but I decided that for every 100m I gained I'd have a rest. I still stopped for photos, but the 100m rest was that - a rest. I already had 300 meters climbing done and another 1200 or so to go.

*This road is packed with atmosphere!*​





Interestingly, Osmand was wrong again today on climbing. It reckoned double but looking at the profile I couldn't see it.






It took a while for the countryside to impress me. Ha! How conceited is that?! The feckin' bike tourist reckons that the road should be impresssing him! 
I was immersed in the usual scenery - lots and lots of trees and interesting, exotic vegetation. 
That reads terribly. I was in my element! The constant variation in the road was reflected beside it. I couldn't see far but beside me I had all the plants and sounds that have become so familiar in the last few days. Lots of smells too! There was a definite hint of lavender in the air today.
Once I gained some height I caught glimpses of the oddly shaped chain of small mountains that had been denied to me by the rain earlier. Except they weren't ahead of me anymore - they were below me! Looking down after a climb is good for the soul! 

*Hard to believe it was raining earlier!*



​What was most surprising to me, however, was just how much I was enjoying the cycling. The cycling!
Perhaps it was that sign again but I felt good. Thankfully, I had none of the energy failures of days past and could keep on spinning the pedals. 
Normally, I'm the world's greatest wuss when it comes to climbing - I bitch and moan and whinge and swear my way up. I love the result but despise the process. Not today! I didn't have a smile plastered across my face but for a lot of the day there was a definite, but small, smile of satisfaction.

*Epic. I may be using that word a lot lately, but how else to describe a road like this through a landscape like this?*



​I pulled in at the 1000 meter elevation mark for a lunch of banana and peanut butter tortillas. Damn but the peanut butter is runny here - and messy to eat. Enid Blyton might not be acceptable these days but she was right about one thing - food always tastes better outdoors. (A "Famous Five" reference).

*There are some big houses around here.*



​I pulled in at 1100 meters and passed a very pleasant half hour in the company of ants !
Yes! I'm going to prattle on about ants again!
What absolutely amazing creatures! These were big boys and carrying bits of leaves larger than normal which made spotting them very easy. The fact of regular long lengths of kerb along the road gave them their own highway. And they were using it! I followed them about 50 meters from where the bike was parked up and lost them when they turned away from the road and into the ditch. I figured their home was in there. Then I followed them in the opposite direction to see where they were collecting their leaves. Easily another 30 meters past the bike. That's a pretty big distance for an ant!
*
If someone had told me I'd be captivated by ants on this trip......*



​Traffic, generally speaking was fine with the closest passes coming at the start of the climb and at the end of the day at Fresno. There were a few crazy blind bend overtakes that spooked me. There were a lot of motorcyclists, but "normal" ones mostly, not racers. For some reason there were a lot of jeeps, especially red ones on the road. I couldn't be sure if there was only one and I kept seeing it but when I saw two together I realised there were more than one. (Later, in Fresno I figured out that they are local public transport carrying people in the back, in the front and on a board at the back. There's a rack on top for luggage. And they come in a variety of colours! This is farming country and once off the main road 4 wheel drive becomes a necessity). 
I saw two other cyclists after Mariquita, one going up, one going down but there were a lot of cars with bikes on racks, on the roof or both. I don't think I've ever seen so many bikes being transported as I have in Colombia. 

*Break time! Am I the luckiest SOB? I sure think so! *



​My 1200 meter stop was at a little restaurant and shop for a cold drink and to buy some ciggies. A very pleasant lady looked after me and tried to encourage me to have something from the grill. Not long after lunch I couldn't but she gave me a chocolate toffee because I "must be tired". I was very touched.

*Coffee country!*



​I was now in coffee country and I started seeing fields of coffee plants in various states of organisation. 
I became very, very chuffed with myself.
I love my coffee. I've wanted to see coffee plants in the wild for ages. I was in coffee areas in México, Honduras and Nicaragua but Colombia was always the place for coffee in my head. Anyone following this on a map for the next while is probably going to become a bit concerned for my mental faculties but my understanding is that there are lots and lots of interesting coffee places to visit and I intend to find them. Quite probably more by accident than design. The less touristy the better. 
So here I am, in coffee country and I've arrived on my bike. Damn right I'm chuffed with myself!

Donning my arty farty head again I call this "Pretty Plant"






To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Nov 2021)

Day 780, Monday, November 01, 2021, Honda to Fresno, 46km Total KM 13547
Min meters 219, Max Meters 1485
Total Climb 1500 Total Descent 263
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 30

Part 3

I rounded a bend and I could see Fresno ahead of and above me. I stuck to the main road and then turned off for the Plaza.






Uh oh. Clearly a fiesta had been taking place and I found myself cycling over lots of broken glass. The Plaza was disappointing, very open, lots of concrete and that was before factoring in the tents and paraphernalia of a fiesta. The usual Plaza businesses were cleaning up and music was blasting out of one corner.






I have my little ritual of toasting my arrival with a coffee or cold drink but the only place I could find open was beside the loud music source. I pulled up and got a coffee and pastry keeping a close eye on the bike all the time then sat outside. 






In all honesty I was disappointed. A mega climb and then this - the aftermath of a small town fiesta. I could spy a couple of hotels from my vantage point but both were rejected due to the intolerable noise. I'd passed a couple on the way into town, foolishly not paying much attention as I thought they'd be too noisy on the main road! 

*Even the church didn't inspire any affection!*



​I hopped back on the bike and retraced my pedalling. One was closed and the other was up a stairs. Thankfully, I can park up below in a car park and a very nice lady checked me in. I had a choice of rooms but took the smallest. I really don't need much. Last night I sweated under a fan tonight there's a big blanket on my bed that I'll probably be needing. I'm back to cold mountain water showers! Rejuvenated, and donning a fleece I went down the road to a grill place that I spotted that seemed busy. I got a big plate of meat! 






Feeling even more rejuvenated after a meal I braved the centre of town again. I learned that the town was celebrating its anniversary as well as Halloween. Shops were open and crowds of people milled around. As well as shops there were the usual stalls selling sweets, cigarettes and I even spotted young chicks and rabbits for sale from a specially made box! 

*Yep! Horses tied up outside a bar! You gotta love country towns!*



​I was wary but didn't feel unsafe. For proof that I was in farming country people moved on horses and a few were tied up outside bars. Drink as much as you want and the horse will get you home. Maybe I need a horse!😀








Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Nov 2021)

Day 781, Tuesdayay, November 02, 2021, Fresno to Padua, 17km Total KM 13564
Min meters 1479, Max Meters 2085
Total Climb 730 Total Descent 126
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 25

Spoilt brat of a bike tourist!

Despite the coolness I didn't have a great night's sleep. I popped awake sometime after 2am and couldn't get back to sleep for a while. It was hardly a surprise then that when my "emergency" alarm went off at 6am I hit snooze repeatedly.

The truth is I had my doubts about knocking out the final section of this leg to Manizales in one go. If I had to climb 3600 meters and had clocked 1500 yesterday (and about 300 of those don't count) that still left a whole lot of meters to climb. Bazillions of the feckers!
It wasn't just the climbing, though. I'd feel rushed, especially on the descent, arrive exhausted and probably later than I'd like. 
I decided to split it. Padua today, then Manizales tomorrow.

*Fresno looked better from a distance!*



​I got up slowly, packed and rolled up to the Plaza. I needed cash and was reluctant to take it out last night. Sure, I may as well have some breakfast as well! A couple of disappointing croissants and a coffee later I was on my way.

The road wasted no time in punishing me for splitting the ride and hit me with a brutally steep climb from the get go. It took an awful long time to get out of town - not because it's so big but because I was so slow!

*Getting a bit more height (although I was already high). The land was more open, rolling and mountains seemed far away (if I ignored the one I was on!)



*​It's funny how the road can change character after a town. Yesterday, I lost my shoulder after Mariquita and was enclosed in greenery, today the road surface deteriorated, the bends were less severe and the countryside became far more open. Because of the more gentle bends I also lost a lot of the low walls and high kerbs that had been so nice to stop and rest on or even just to lean Roccado on to take a photo. (The ants agreed with me - they avoided the little kerbs today too!) Instead, I had barbed wire fences. My 100 meter break system from yesterday was breaking down with fewer places to stop comfortably.
There seemed to be a bit more traffic, certainly more trucks, and some seemed a lot faster than yesterday.
Add in a pretty gloomy sky and uninspiring landscapes I just wasn't feeling it like I was yesterday. A lack of sleep certainly didn't help.

*Uninspiring. Time to have a chat with myself!*



​Now, when I say "uninspiring landscapes" it should be understood that I'm speaking relatively. 

Another way of thinking about that paragraph listing my complaints is that I'm speaking out of my ass! 
I'm on my bike in Colombia, in the coffee triangle and I'm whinging that the scenery isn't up to snuff!
Spoilt or what?

I ground my way up and up not really feeling it like I did yesterday. Osmand again had overestimated the climbing and my own calculations reckoned I'd need to climb about 650 meters, complicated by a few short descents.

*The land was a mix of wild, uncontrollable areas with others cultivated. There are no tractors in these parts and all work is done by hand. I'd often pass a motorbike parked on the side of the road - a sign of someone working nearby *




​2100 meters was the holy grail to reach.
The road was quite open and the land around me was filled with rolling hills that filled the view and hid whatever was behind them.

*Gentler bends, no barriers, walls or kerbs. This was seriously messing with my regular stopping method of bike touring*



​I stopped early for a cold drink at a place that was getting painted. One of the painters, an older man, came over to ask the usual questions. When I told him I was hoping to get to Argentina he got one of those far away looks in his eyes. I caught him several times looking at the bike in what I took to be a kind of wonderment. 

*Much more open landscape than yesterday. Gizmo gave a maximum temperature of 39C but I never felt that warm*



​It was slow going, an almost neverending up and up and up. At about 1900 meters I could see a descent ahead and spotting a small bakery pulled in. No empanadas, nothing really except bread and cookies none of which tickled my fancy. The lady kindly explained that there was a restaurant further on rather than try to sell me something. I bought a cold drink and sat down. Four dogs of various degrees of timidity came over to play one at a time. What could be better?
The lady's husband enquired about the bike and that started another interesting chat. 

*Now that's looking better! Yes! The sky really was that threatening! There were regular times when a few raindrops fell but the sky was happy just to threaten*



​Feeling much better I set off again for the short descent and debated whether or not to pull in for food. I did and I wasn't disappointed, even if it turned out to be expensive by Colombian standards.
Despite a sign advertising breakfast they did nothing with eggs (no menu, all verbal) so I settled on chicken and while waiting admired the view!

*No matter where I looked there were houses dotted around. A beautiful location but isolated*





*From now on the experience changed. The rest of the journey to follow.....*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Nov 2021)

Day 781, Tuesdayay, November 02, 2021, Fresno to Padua, 17km Total KM 13564
Min meters 1479, Max Meters 2085
Total Climb 730 Total Descent 126
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 25

Part 2

*See the difference?  Not only did I see it I felt it! It was exhilarating! I was getting to soak up all the efforts of my labour and that feels good.*



​I only had about 8kms to go but those last kms rescued the day! 




​My mood soared with the views, varying at each bend and with the clouds passing overhead. 

*The colours seemed so deep, so intense. Homesteads scattered around. How tough must life be here. No wonder there are so many motorbikes!*



​Dark clouds were rolling in too creating atmosphere to go with the vistas. 

*There is so much detail in just one photo.*



​Mist was descending everywhere and a few times I was riding along a ridge, pine forests to my left slowly slipping beneath a dull, white mist while to my right the sun was favouring certain sections of multi-sided mountains. 




​It was nearly too much, my poor head swiveling from side to side. 

*Vistas changed as the clouds moved, the sun highlighting some parts, condemning others to shade*



​I stopped frequently and at times could look right down into a valley far, far below. 

*Magic! Pure magic! I was so happy with myself for making this a "short" day. I could bask and revel in what I was seeing. I had the time to wait and see how it looked five minutes later - always different.*





*Zoom in and the mountains seem to be neverending



*
​Now, _this_ was cycling!




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Nov 2021)

Day 781, Tuesdayay, November 02, 2021, Fresno to Padua, 17km Total KM 13564
Min meters 1479, Max Meters 2085
Total Climb 730 Total Descent 126
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 25

Part 3

Rounding a bend I caught my first sight of Padua above me and was surprised to see a much bigger place than expected.

_*Padua looming out of the mist. The blue church is visible*_



​ This was a good thing as I only had Osmand to tell me there was a hotel and that can be unreliable. I also saw the road heading out of town - another tough climb to start the day!

*I could still look down and behind. *



​I passed the one hotel on the edge of town and laboured up a big, big hill.

*Stopped within spitting distance of the town I was cooling down rapidly. Mist was around me, the sky was becoming darker by the minute but the sun? The sun was beaming its magic on the Promised Land.*



​ According to the map there was no Plaza but I have a system now and wanted to follow it. If there were more options up the hill all the better.

*I found it really hard to leave the last bend before the little town. Up ahead looked gloomy and dull. The gift of time.*​





I rolled up to the blue, concrete church, a disappointment, with the sports court in front. I got a coffee from a small store and asked about accommodation. A man came up and said there was one on the corner.

*I'm becoming something of a church snob. This one left me cold*



​I sipped my coffee, smoked a ciggie and watched the rain clouds coming in. I hopped on the bike and this time saw a hotel on the corner that I'd missed previously. That's a few meters saved tomorrow! 

*A desire (or a wish) changes nothing. A decision changes everything.
A surprisingly profound mural in an otherwise uninspiring place*



​I had to drag everything up a steepish, dogleg stairs (that'll be fun tomorrow!) and as I was checking in the rain started. I had a warmish shower as the heavens poured! 

*One of the jeeps used for public transport around here*






*A lot of signage is sponsored by Gatorade on this road.*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

Day 782, Wednesday, November 04, 2021, Padua to Manizales (outskirts), 65km Total KM 13629
Min meters 2080, Max Meters 3692
Total Climb Two thousand asnd forty eight feckin' meters (2048) Total Descent 1914
Min Temp 5 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp 14

I shoulda done some research!

Padua is a bit of a depressing spot. Mind you, rain rarely improves the look of a place on a dark evening.
After my shower I had an hour's siesta and then went out to look for food. Options were disappointing or non existent. I did stop to watch a bit of a girl's football match but then wandered on feeling like a bit of a perv.
I found a supermarket, bought some tuna (for dinner) and yoghurt and granola for breakfast. Back to the room to make some noodles.
The only life at 7pm were a couple of bars, sad looking places.
One place in particular, small, open to the street had a counter, two tables, some chairs and three couples slow dancing to some breathtakingly sad ballad. I say dancing but there was no room to move; they just held each other and swayed. The guys wore clothes with all the signs of a hard day's work and the señoritas weren't far behind. There had been no excitement of preparing for a date, no agonising over what to wear.
Over the sounds of the ballad something was screaming about the isolation and the lack of choice and opportunity in small town mountainy Colombia. In small towns everywhere, really.
I found it totally depressing.
(Of course, I could be very, very wrong in my impression).

_*Twenty two minutes after hopping on the bike this was my view! Looking down on the clouds and I'd barely started the climbing! The road I rode in on yesterday is visible*_



​I was awake at 4 and got organised making coffee, eating a big breakfast and packing up. There's always a bit of organisation required to get everything downstairs. I really don't want to be leaving my gear and bike unattended on the street for any longer than necessary.
There was more activity at that hour of the morning than I'm used to but at 6:00 exactly I was ready to roll out and up. Today was going to be a big day!

*I suppose I could have been annoyed at what I couldn't see but it's better to appreciate what I could see!*



​The morning was cool and showed all the signs of a wet night. Mist was swirling around and clouds were above and below me. I knew from yesterday that the road out of town was steep and took little satisfaction from being proved right.

*Slow progress but spectacular views!*



​If yesterday took a long time to charm me, then today pulled out all the stops from the get go. Within 20 minutes I was looking down on a glorious, green valley with white clouds floating along. I could look back on Padua and believe it pretty.
I was in for a monster of a day but it was glorious!

*I loved the little splash of colour on such a gloomy morning*



​The next couple of hours were simply breathtaking in every sense of the word. I was climbing steadily but weaving over, back and around gaining new perspectives on every turn. Mist appeared, disappeared and returned on whims I couldn't understand sometimes hiding me, other times hiding the views. Water fell out of cliffs in tiny waterfalls adding music to the birds chirping me along. Around me were open fields of land at strange angles or pine forests, below me steep declines to valleys with houses dotted hither and tither. Cattle at my level were replaced by coffee plants lower down. And always clouds or mist rolling in or out. Nature's wonder in perpetual motion.

*An original roadside memorial



*​The hours of 6 to 12 were very pleasant. I was feeling good and making steady if not spectacular progress. I'd given myself the same break system as before - for every 100m gain in altitude I had a break starting after 300m. My rough calculations expected about 1600 meters climbing.

*Looking back....*



About 8am I came across another Colombian cycling sign telling me I had 30km to go. Since other cyclists (mainly clubs) had stickered their presence I did too - with a marker! I left my mark in Colombia!

*There is something so mysterious, so magical about a misty landscape. It was constantly changing, swirling around.*





Trying to think afterwards that may well be my first ever act of wanton vandalism and I have to say it felt bloody great!😀

*Sometimes the mist swept in and I was lost*






*With my arty farty head on I call this "Ghost Trees"*







*My first graffiti!*




​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

Day 782, Wednesday, November 04, 2021, Padua to Manizales (outskirts), 65km Total KM 13629
Min meters 2080, Max Meters 3692
Total Climb Two thousand asnd forty eight feckin' meters (2048) Total Descent 1914
Min Temp 5 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp 14

I shoulda done some research!

Part Two

*At times it seemed like the clouds were an aggressive invader overpowering the land. This is not a road for those with vertigo!*




​About 9am I pulled up to a busy roadside place in a little village for a second breakfast. I discussed my needs and we settled on eggs, an arepa and fried banana with a delicious coffee. Three pretty girls working and looking after me - it was a wonder I left at all!

*There was always a splash of colour if I kept my eyes open*




From then on the road improved too. My kerbs came back, there were lots of walls and barbed wire fences were well behind both. There was even a small shoulder that I could use.

*That little road down there intrigued me. Where did it go? How could I get on it?
That's how good I was feeling at the time*



​The road was never straight, twisting and curling continuously. Trucks especially had a hard time often having to drive the cab on the wrong side to make sure the trailer stayed on the road.

*The green from the previous photo could disappear within minutes*



A section of roadworks meant that traffic tended to arrive in groups, just the way I like it.

*I love this shot! It seems like the clouds are trying to push the mountain back. You can just make out my road ahead. Who wouldn't want to hop on and ride to the scene of the mountain/cloud battle?*





I had birds chirping at me as I wandered ever upwards and the now usual sound of water falling down the little cliffs.

*More colour!*



​With traffic often absent for long stretches the only jarring noise was the clang when my handlebars hit a guardrail as I was parking up for another photo.
It was really very pleasant.

*A patch of blue! And the sun coming out! Things were looking up!*



​And then it became less so, sometime about noon. The rain that had threatened on and off all morning got off the fence and onto the road.

*The blue patch was like a mirage disappearing in cloud and mist*



​At first I resisted donning my jacket but as it got heavier out it came. The rain stayed for the next almost six hours. It ruined views, cooled me down and meant that the camera stayed in my pocket.

*A full on cloud invasion!*






*The mighty Roccado. Conquering the Andes!*



​
To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Nov 2021)

Day 782, Wednesday, November 04, 2021, Padua to Manizales (outskirts), 65km Total KM 13629
Min meters 2080, Max Meters 3692
Total Climb Two thousand asnd forty eight feckin' meters (2048) Total Descent 1914
Min Temp 5 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp 14

I shoulda done some research!

Part Three

I was still enjoying the cycling though and the views I could catch. But there's a cumulative effect that grinds and can slowly wear us down. 
The road was fecking with me too. I needed to get to a height of 3678 meters and was counting up towards that. But the road dropped a few times. The first one, 100 meters down was fun, the second not so much and the third (near the end) was heartbreaking. 

*Before the rain. When I took this photo I didn't think it was going to rain! Ha! Dumbass!*



​I was slowly running out of puff. As if to emphasise that, a car slowed down behind me, followed for a minute or so then slowly caught up with me. A hand thrust out the window had a phone and was making a video. No "Hello", no "Hey, can I make a video?" and they were bloody close.
"Where did you leave from?", was the very specific question hollered at me.
"Virginia, Estados Unidos", I replied.
Then the guy starts talking to the phone saying "This American......".
That really annoyed me so I yelled that I was from Ireland. 
Now, I'm climbing a big hill on a loaded bike in the rain with a car too close to me and a phone in my face. My patience was very, very thin. They got what they wanted and drove off revealing a racing bike strapped to the back of the car. Feckin' roadies and their lack of social skills! 

*Taken before the first descent. I'd lose 100 meters but the surface was great and it was great fun flying down. *



​To balance things out, though, later, about 11km from the top (and bazillions of meters!) Señor Empathy crossed over from the other side of the road on his motorbike as I straddled mine after taking a photo. 
"Nearly there", he said. "Up, down, up but not too steep". At that stage I was very, very tired but it was clear across his face that he was trying to be supportive. I appreciated it very much but struggled to compile a coherent sentence. He wished me luck and we both went our separate ways.

*Green! Green! GREEN! (And homemade fenceposts)*



​There were more cyclists on the road today than the previous days. A girl ignored my cheery greeting early in the morning and again when she flew past me on the way down. Another guy was getting pushed up by someone on a motorcycle and one guy had his own support van.......
On one of my breaks at the side of the road a van pulled in ahead of me blasting out the most soppy early nineties ballads. I was keeping a wary eye on him and almost missed a cyclist coming from behind me. Mr. bad taste in music jogged beside him for a moment handing over a bottle of drink than something small that went straight in the rider's mouth. Then back in the van and off up again! I wish I had that service! Mind you, I was puffing in a ciggie at the time

*Resting up in the rain. Water was tinkling down the cliff in front of the bike. Judging by the life growing on the cliffside it was a common occurrence*



​Dogs were a familiar sight today but most were harmless and curious. Stopped at the side of the road it wasn't unusual for a dog to appear seemingly from nowhere. The braver ones came over to say hello, the others were very wary. I think the fact that I didn't give them a boot up the ass was taken as a sign of affection.
One chap tailed me for a while. He was very friendly with the most expressive brown eyes. When I stooped for a roadside lunch of bread and peanut butter he got half. I even shared my cookies. Not long after he disappeared letting me know how he saw me!

*A little, musical waterfall*



​The last section was cruel. From a height of 3550 meters (I was aiming for 3678) I dropped almost 200 meters. It was heartbreaking and I started to doubt that I'd make it. I started keeping my eyes open for a likely, discreet camping spot my heart dropping in my chest as I contemplated a cold, wet night, scarce water and the prospect of eaking up to the same. However, a camping spot was not likely on such a steep road. 
By now I was in full raingear and feeling pretty miserable. I was tired and finding it hard to control the steering. I took to pulling in when traffic came up from behind. It was safer. The closer I got to the top the stronger the wind became too - of course it was a headwind. There were no birds to chirp me along (they'd disappeared with the rain) but for some reason I noticed their absence and missed them. 

*A hint I was too tired to pick up on.*



​From now on the battle (because that's what it felt like) was as much mental as physical.
Slowly, little by little, I made ground on the summit.

*The countryside was opening up, the wind was picking up, Gizmo was counting up. The only things down were my energy and mood. *



​When it arrived just after a tiny village with most places closed there was a tremendous sense of anti-climax. There was no joy, no sense of achievement, not even a lot of satisfaction. 
It was pretty bleak, the wind was strong, the rain was pouring and I was exhausted.

*All that effort for this?????*



​Most importantly, I wasn't finished! 

I needed a place to stay. 
Manizales, about 30km away (downhill!) is a big, big town and I had a couple of likely spots picked out but hadn't made a reservation because I knew I'd be arriving late and that I'd rather find somewhere along the way and arrive fresh the next day. None of my usual sources had any info but I was trusting in Colombia to help me out.

After the obligatory photo I set off downhill and nearly cried (I did roar in frustration) because my sweeping, long descent was into the wind and I had to pedal to move. My legs were onto their union saying that this was not the deal!

A little later the descent got steeper and I could freewheel down. But I also froze at 5C. 
At first, the views were nothing special but as I descended the road became an adventure with some sweeping fast turns and pretty impressive views. This side was very different. Smooth is my recollection of the landscape. Much less wild. I did see a beautiful rainbow through the rain but most of my energy was focused on survival. Well, maybe that's a bit of hyperbole, but I was tired and needed to concentrate.

It was still raining and I was shivering. Violent shivering spasms to be accurate.
I had to stop several times to get the blood to my extremities.
Small communities on the map were tiny in real life with no places to stay (wheras up to now most places were far larger than the maps suggested). Desperate to warm up I stopped at a fancy looking place but it was closed. 
A brief climb warmed me up somewhat but I was soon descending again and getting close to Manizales.

*Looks good, eh? Unfortunately that was behind me as I approached the summit. In front of me just rain*



​I didn't take a single photo after the summit. In the wet with frozen hands in big gloves it was impossible. Besides, I was shivering so much I'd never have been able to keep the camera still long enough for a photo.

Spying a sign for a hotel in 1km I let out a cheer. I nearly passed it as it looked like a ruin, but pulled in. A very pleasant older lady told me that yes, she had a room but there was no water. Hmmmm. Cold and wet I really wanted a shower. I asked about wifi and she smiled as if to say "I'm supposed to tell you that we have it.... but it doesn't work". I thanked her for her honesty and asked if the water was out everywhere. I really, really wanted a hot shower! She told me that if I continued closer to town they'd have water. I made my excuses to leave but she wanted a chat so I filled her in on my journey and with her good wishes rejoined the road.

*From the summit. Behind me, unfortunately*



​Traffic was heavy, it was dark (the sun sets very quickly!) and there were roadworks. I didn't care. I flew. Until I saw a hotel sign.

Home.

The research I should have done?
Alto de Letras is the longest climb on the planet! Dumbass did it on a loaded bike!😀

View: https://youtu.be/WIdpuVGO5zY


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2021)

Day 783, Thursday, November 04, 2021, Manizales (Outskirts) to Manizales (Centre), 13km Total KM 13641
Min meters 1895, Max Meters 2180
Total Climb 301 Total Descent 297
Min Temp22 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 29

The day after the Longest Climb defeated by a hill!

Last night after a hot shower (more of a roasting dribble) I had a simple meal of eggs, arepa and toast at the hotel. I was very tired yet a bit excited and very amused with myself.

I used the internet to read about the Alto de Letras and was highly amused at what I had stumbled upon.
It's a dream for a lot of cyclists to ride that road and I just stumbled upon it. Packages are offered from US$1600 per person! (There's a spa recovery day!)
Had I known about it in advance I may well have avoided it!
I know I did it over three days so for some it doesn't count but I couldn't care less!
If anything, it just reinforced the idea that chasing summits is not for me.
I took my time, I spent time (lots of time) to appreciate where I was and I got a real taste of where I was travelling through. Had I not seen the signs from Colombian Cycling I'd have had no idea I was on such an iconic road and would be blissfully unaware of any "extra" achievement.
I was surprised at myself for enjoying so much of it. The last part of the last day I did not enjoy.

I also booked a room in the city for the next two nights.

*Manizales is well spread out, several suburbs spread through valleys and on hills. It is incredibly steep! I was in a shoulderless highway until I turned in (and up) to get to the centre*



On waking up I was in no rush. I had taken note of the noon checkout time (I never pay attention to that) and intended to use most of it. I was on the edge of Manizales so it couldn't take too long to get to the hotel. I rolled over and went back to sleep.

*The old part, the centre has many narrow streets (and a few highways). I got excited seeing that church in the distance. In reality, this was one of the better views of it!*



​When I got up my belly wasn't good. I had a leisurely coffee and slowly packed up.
I plotted a car and a bike route into the city. Looking at the state of the road I'd arrived on in the dark yesterday I was impressed at my speed and a bit surprised that I'd arrived in one piece! It was well broken up!

I set off and had a long sweeping descent mixing with all kinds of traffic and dealing with roadworks. Manizales is a big, well spread out place and the roads were busy. With no safe spaces to stop there were few photos. There were more than a few random close passes (for Colombia) and I realised it's been a while since I dealt with such traffic. Two big dogs, one a Retriever and his Shepherd buddy were lunging at traffic and gave me a big scare, the retriever snapping at my ankle and barely missing - this on a busy four lane dual carriageway.

*A different church but just as difficult to photograph*



​My descent eventually turned to an ascent. Steep and slow. Osmand had me on a ring road but when I turned off it got even steeper. Yesterday I conquered the Alto de Letras today Manizales defeated me. I got off and pushed.

*Some unusual art in the main Plaza. I stopped and stared, walked around to get different angles and perspectives but could find no beauty in it.*



​The bike route directed me into what looked like slums so I changed over to the car route - a similar neighbourhood but lots of traffic.
The closer I got to the centre and the hotel the steeper the streets became. Incredibly steep! I saw one other bicycle on my approach to the hotel! This is not a bike friendly town!

*Oh, did I mention the traffic?*



​It is not within my gift to describe the steepness of the streets approaching the centre. The streets are straight with traffic lights at each junction. My method was to wait for the traffic to go then, with an empty street, to weave over and back across the road. Even unladen I don't think I'd be riding these streets. An as yet unexperienced horror will be descending the same streets!
Lord knows what it's like in the wet!

*An example of a typical street. Very steep. Narrow. One way. *



​I eventually found the hotel, well located and got a ground floor room as requested. Roccado is in the room with me - the way I like it.

*Just down from the hotel, a Police observation post. Reassuring!*​





I took a quick wander to find my bearings and get a feel for the place. They say that Manizales is a friendly city and if I'm honest, I'm not seeing it. That's not to say it's unfriendly, it's just that I have been in very genuinely friendly places so I'm biased.

*I have this habit of finding iconic churches in a state of disrepair!*



​Overcome with tiredness I returned early to the hotel. In all fairness I'd had a tough day the day before. Better to explore the place properly when I'm well rested.

*One of the more unusual representations of Símon Bolívar - naked and as a bird. *



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2021)

Day 784-786 Friday - Sunday November 5-7, Manizales

I had a wary impression of Manizales before I'd actually arrived. In looking for a decent place to stay I'd come across reviews of places that talked of security, bad neighbourhoods and hotels with stringent security precautions.

*Street art is scarce*



​Also, outside my hotel on the edge of the city was a homemade poster asking for information about a missing 15 year old boy. Such posters were common in México, so common I'm not sure I've mentioned them here, but it was a shock to see another. I find such posters to be very sad. Oftentimes the kids (for they are nearly always teenagers) have been abducted by criminals. They may have a drug debt (or a sibling does), they may be held for ransom, they may be set to work for criminals or they may just have annoyed some local hard man. In any case it can create an image.

*Hola! Soy Mani*



​If I didn't know some Spanish I could easily have assumed that Manizales translates to "The City of Traffic". It is pervasive and the effects are everywhere from the noise and the smells but most importantly, and I think sadly, on the architecture.
Manizales is a very frustrating place, architecturly speaking.
There are some amazing buildings here, mainly churches, cathedrals and basilicas (now that we know what one is!) and it is next nigh to impossible to take a decent photo because a road, or a highway, is running right past it. In fact, some seem like they are cut off from people on foot. To me, that is so strange. A staple of my navigation for years on a bike was to head for a steeple. It's normally a pretty straightforward process. Not here!

*The white building is a museum, closed, of course! It's a useful reference to understand the angle of the streets here.*



​The city seems compressed, squashed. It's noticable in the buildings but also in the small and disappointing parks where traffic is often buzzing around on all sides. Even getting to the park or Plaza can be a stessful experience crossing busy roads and there is usually minimal or no barriers, natural or otherwise, to separate the traffic from me once in.
A doggy playground I spotted was beside a busy road only meters from a busy junction. It's a brave person with a well trained dog that uses it. It was empty when I passed.






There are a lot of incredibly steep narrow streets too that make brilliant photographic opportunities. Mountains in the distance. Closer the suburbs (which may be little more than shacks), closer still the buildings along the street, various types servicing various needs in all kinds of repair and through the whole vista the slight sensation of vertigo as the street plummets downhill. I'm not in México anymore and trying to take a photo is dicing with death by yellow taxi!

*This street is in Villa Maria. Steep down then steep back up!*



​There are other perils with these steep streets.
Walking across can leave my ankles operating at very strange angles. Unless I want to keel over I keep my body upright and the ankles take the strain by tilting at strange, acute angles.
Then there's the more psychological peril of motorised transport, especially motorbikes, going up these hills at full revs only to jam on the brakes at the junction at the top. Scary!







One of the best known features of Manizales are the cable cars, a part of the public transport network. Friday they were one of the first things on my list.
There are two lines, one from where I was that connected to the main city transport hub, then another that linked that up with Villa Maria, one of the many suburbs of the city.
I bought my ticket (about €0,50) but couldn't get it to scan properly. A young Venezuelan chap behind helped me out by showing me where to scan it and we travelled down together, only the two of us in the car.

*An aerial view of a pretty densely populated centre*



​An aerial view is a very interesting view, especially of a city. Especially a hilly city like this one.
Photos don't do it justice taken, as they were, behind dirty perspex and lacking the sheer scale of the views.
Of more interest was the chat. Very difficult with the speed and accent of Venezuelan speech. In the country a couple of months he is another refugee from Venezuela (Colombia has issued over 1 million temporary visas for Venezuelans fleeing the chaos there not counting all the people who simply crossed unmarked borders during the pandemic).

*Manizales: Expanding into the mountains



*​He has no work, occasionally picking up work in a hotel on a day by day basis. To supplement that income he sells refuse sacks and sweets. There is no fixed price, people pay what they can. I'd put him at early twenties and find it difficult to comprehend what life must be like for him. Every day is about survival, about making money to eat. In these pandemic times I've made something of a virtue out of not making plans, of taking each day as it comes. His situation is so, so different.
He asked me about my trip but I felt uncomfortable talking about it - probably the first time ever. It seemed almost like I was flaunting my good fortune.

*I rode in on that road.*



​The cable cars terminate at Villa Maria. It has a pretty little Plaza and not much else. It's located within a National Park and mountains are all around. There is, I believe, a hike that can be done but I didn't need any more climbing! More narrow streets with precipitous drops and rises, lots of busy shops and I was ready for a return trip on the cable cars after soaking up the Plaza atmosphere with a coffee.

*Looking back towards the centre of Manizales from Villa Maria*




Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2021)

Day 784-786 Friday - Sunday November 5-7, Manizales

There are quite a few churches here!

*Wood is used a lot in the churches*







*The church in Villa Maria*







*The impossible to photograph properly church*







*And a close up......*






*Inside*









*The other impossible to photograph properly church. There's a 4 lane highway in front of it!*






*Inside left me cold*






*A brown Jesus!*







*Apparently, this is a copy of one in Antigua! (I read it on a sign)*





Chat? Yes Please!
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​


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Nov 2021)

Day 784-786 Friday - Sunday November 5-7, Manizales

Bakeries seem to be the beating heart of Colombian towns, villages and cities.
They're not like bakeries as I know them, selling far more than just bread and pastries. They sell yoghurt, milk and other dairy products, coffee, soft drinks, they'll often serve at least some kind of breakfast and they sell beer! In smaller places they can be attached to a particular service so you can have a coffee while your motorbike is being repaired or while they root around in the little hardware store for that thing you wanted.
Often, in front, on the street there will be some kind of hot oil cooker for cooking some of the breakfast foods. Passers by can pick up something straight from the fryer as they walk on by.

*Any city that can deliver up views like this has to be a bit special*



​The service is interesting to me. If I want to "dine in" I sit at a table and a waitress, invariably friendly and pleasantly informal, will be over in a flash. In an ideal world I'll tell her what I want and my order can be delivered by up to three colleagues; One with the coffee, one with the pastry and one with the cold drink. A smile each time.
The reality is that I have to wander the display cabinets asking questions. My questions are never (at least up to now) treated contemptuously. In fact, bakery señoritas are a great source of smiles! I make my order, pick a table and my order will be delivered.
A scribbled piece of paper either with my order or the cash total is placed on the table. Later, I'll present that to a separate cashier to pay. 

*Or this!*



​All the world comes here during the day. Couples have breakfast before parting for the working day, businesspeople fuel up before a day of wheeling and dealing, farmers grab a coffee while their pickup is loaded or unloaded, older folk gather to check who's still alive and who's missing, entire families eat together sharing a large bottle of Coke. 
There's clearly a difference in size and scale between the bigger towns and the villages but the process and the feeling is the same. A place for all the community all through the day. The staff seem to know everyone and interactions are rarely just transactional. On my second visit to the bakery across the road from my hotel I didn't have to say how I liked my coffee.
The one thing that surprised me the most is the booze! (I'm unsure if they sell anything stronger than beer). 
Evening times, especially, they can be very busy with people chatting over a bottle or can of beer. Plastic cups are provided. Families with young kids have beers (adults) and soft drinks. I've seen big groups, presumably multi-generational get togethers slowly spread out and take over most of the floor space but in an organic fashion, not loud, not raucous, not aggressive.
Alternative drinking options can be few and far between. 

*The "Water Park", complete with rainbow! Very small and compact with fast moving traffic flowing on all sides*



​The bars are little more than an empty room and beer crates. They are not large and the only concession to entertainment is a speaker or two pumping out traditional music.
Some may have gone a bit further with some fancy lighting and bigger speakers playing more modern music, a kind of "discotheque" vibe in relation to the traditional places. Whenever I see these places they are invariably empty. Of course, I may well be in bed before they come to life.
The touristy places have bars that I am more familiar with, filled with people I am more familiar with. I avoid those for exactly those reasons.
The bakeries with their mix of clientele, invariably smiley staff and my drug of choice (coffee) are more than enough for me. 
A scientist, studying my movements in these foreign parts would conclude that I'm wasting time sitting in these places watching life going on all about me, that I should be out and about more marking off a checklist. 
I disagree. As well as ascending to crazy heights on my bike I'm mining down into the soul of Colombia in these places. 

*Sunset in Chipre*



​My next destination was to the suburb of Chipre, high on one side of the city that is famous for its sunsets. Or so my guidebook says!

But first, I had a sad task to undertake. 
My Ecco shoes which I've had for so long they're a reminder of a past life are finally flithered beyond use. The sole of the left one is gone, worn away and now uncomfortable on the pedals. The right isn't much better. I need to replace them. Like my bandana they have been regular companions on many, many bike trips. Back when they were still good they were my off the bike wear, comfortable, breathable and light. They've walked along the Rhine, the Danube, the Alps. They've tipped along on Verona cobbles, dusty Camino roads and had been my evening footwear for a lot of this trip. Yes, I'm silly, but I get attached to things. 
I used to have terrible problems with my feet and only Eccos gave any relief. My feet are young again but these are a last link to another time. 
I bought some new shoes.

I also had a bit of housekeeping to do. Since I got my new phone I've been using the Guatemalan number for Whatsapp. I received a text to say that I needed to top up the credit or lose the number. There's a Dutch company Recharge DotCom that will let me top up the credit so back to the hotel, drop off my shoes and do that over the hotel wifi. Hopefully that's my WhatsApp sorted for a while.

*There are some impressive views*



​There's another thing to Manizales that I hesitate to put into the public domain but it's a part of my wanderings around the city. 
Catholic schoolgirls and their uniforms! They were everywhere on Friday! The classic trope of check skirt, white kneesocks and a white blouse. Some of the skirts were knee length or a little below and some most certainly weren't! It's not like I was wandering around drooling but they were a part of the landscape. Later, their older sisters will be out in very similar outfits!

The walk to Chipre became a whole lot tougher when I went over painfully on my ankle. It was bound to happen and, to be honest, I'm surprised it hasn't happened sooner given my head swiveling style of wandering. The steep climbs, descents and very uneven footpaths certainly didn't help! I'd been proud of myself at quickly identifying the tendency for rectangular access holes in the paths to be missing their covers but it was a simple, albeit acutely angled, step that did me in. That's what I need in mountain country - a sore ankle!

*From Chipre*



​I took a long, wandering route to arrive in Chipre aling a pleasant walkway where people were setting up various food stalls. There *are pleasant views to the west, difficult to photograph because the sun is out.
As well as the views out here there is a coffee museum (yaaaaaaaay!) under, I believe, a monument to the Conquistadors. 
I found the monument easily enough, a small park opposite a viewing platform but it seemed closed. A young local woman was also waiting to get in so I struck up a conversation to be told that it was open we just had to wait for someone with a key. There are worse people to be waiting with!

A young fella showed up with a key and I wandered upwards. 
The monument in the form of a huge, vivid sculpture is very impressive. A guide was giving an explanation to a small group but I couldn't keep up. 
It commemorates the arrival of the first (European) settlers and is in two parts - the agony and the ecstasy, the former representing the journey, the latter the arrival.
Having had a tough day myself recently I could tap in very easily to the agony (yes, I know my journey was nothing like theirs).
It makes no mention of the indigenous people who already lived here, something I found interesting in a relatively recent monument. (2002)
There's a little walk around the hill the monument is on and after sitting down for a while I had a horrible vision of being locked in so limped down quickly to the gate as the group were being let out.
The coffee museum? Closed, of course! What else should I have been expecting?

*Ecstasy: Arriving atop the mountain to found Manizales*



​I wandered over to the viewing platform for a coffee. 

It was a bustling place, a line of food and drink carts lined up, some plastic chairs and permanent ones. People taking the air, enjoying the views and socialising. Very pleasant. And the views are pretty good too!

*Agony: Getting up the mountain. The scale is huge and incorporates a hill in its design making it very hard to photograph. It's van excellently crafted piece of work and there is little doubt what it represents *



​As the sun was sinking behind thick clouds I headed back towards the centre along a decent walkway and catching glimpses of the last light to my right. I'm still not used to how quickly the sun sets in these parts.
I noticed too that as the sun sank and tge temperature dropped that I became coated in a thin film of water.

*More agony*



​Back in the centre I headed to some landmarks sure to be impressed by their nighttime displays. I was sure I'd see statues, steeples and stained glass windows illuminated and glowing. Not a bit of it!

I grabbed a bite to eat and as I ate I had a thought. I can't remember the last time I've seen a McDonalds (or any of the usual suspects: Domino's, KFC, Burger King). I took out Google to discover that Manizales has two McDonald's (for over 500,000 people!) I haven't seen a Starbucks since I don't know when (but that's hardly a surprise in a country that knows a thing or two about coffee). 






I took another wander around but by now my ankle was throbbing badly and I was limping heavily. I headed back to the hotel to figure out where next. My map is full of dots of places I want to visit and I get to play the child's game of join the dots to make a comprehensible picture!


Update:
I really fecked up my ankle! 
I had a tennis ball under the skin and had no choice but to stay two extra days packing it with frozen corn!
I was going to wander north for some backroads but it's still not good so will need to take it easy. Besides, the news is full of reports of floodings and landslides. 

Going to head off tomorrow and am dreading the first big hill!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Nov 2021)

Day 787, Monday, November 08, 2021, Manizales to Santa Rosa de Cabal, 40km Total KM 13681
Min meters 1237, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 703 Total Descent 1141
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 23

Now I know why nobody travels with me!!

How can it be that I roll into one place and think "Meh", then roll into another and feel so comfortable? But that's later.

After two days of doing feck all I'd decided that come hell or high water I was getting out of the ankle twisting town of Manizales. Yesterday the swelling in my ankle had reduced significantly if not the pain. I got up and tested myself crossing the road for my morning coffee. So far, so good. Down the road to a bank was trickier and more painful. Wait another day? No! Not today!

*Crazy steep and yes, that's a drain running down the middle!*



​Back to the room, a hot shower, wrapped the ankle in a wet bandana (a very versatile piece of kit) and I set about packing up.
Outside I was horrified and I mean horrified to see rain. Not a drop of rain (that I know of) since I arrived and now it's pouring.
I wrote a few days ago of dreading the idea of descending these streets in the wet little realising that the Touring Gods are contrary creatures who clearly read this Travelogue! I know now!

And descend I had to do. I had a think and decided not to ride down. I set off walking, the idea being to test the ankle and if necessary return.
It wasn't easy, it wasn't swift and it sure wasn't graceful but I got down to the highway, climbed aboard and headed into the rain and mist.

*Joining the main road! I'm telling you, Manizales on a bike is not for the faint of heart!*



​It wasn't all bad, though. There was no shoulder but traffic was light. I was going downhill so didn't have to worry about the ankle for a while. A few spins seemed to indicate that I'd manage but that was before having to put any grunt into it. Some climbing down the road would tell me more.

I knew that great views were being denied to me but what could I do? I've been spoilt for views lately. Besides, with only a rain gulley at the side of the road there was no safe place to stop.

*Can one get a jolt just from the word café? I did!*



​I did stop on a long bridge for a photo because there was mist hanging over the nearby hills and I still haven't had enough of that!

*Sometimes I do amuse myself! Pishing rain and I see some misty hills, what else to do except stop for a photo?*



​Then I continued. On the "Autopista del café" (I don't need to translate that one do I?)
The Autopista del café!! If ever a road was made for me! A split 4 laner there was no shoulder but traffic was light and I'd no problem taking the lane - this _is_ Colombia after all! In fact, at a toll booth each lane for traffic had a sign asking drivers to be nice to cyclists!

I was losing a lot of height but wasn't really that bothered. I'd a short day planned and my main concerns were my ankle and the weather. The temperature was about 15C and if I didn't go too fast I wasn't going to freeze.

*Today's río and the other carriageway*



​The rain lightened imperceptibly and incrementally until it finally stopped although the sky remained ominous and released a few drops every now and then to remind me who was boss. So it was with a dry sky that I started the ascent to Chinchina.




​I turned off the highway for the last 5kms up to the town. A steep up!
Chinchina is famous (I believe) for having the world's largest cup of coffee! (I think the largest coffee cup might be more accurate and lead to less disappointed bike tourists!).

*Believe it or not there is a swift but small río gushing down there. The life and vegetation that springs up around a río is a joy to behold*



​I navigated to the Plaza, located this coffee cup and instantly realised why I am destined to tour alone for ever more!

*The world's biggest coffee cup! Wrapped in plastic!*



​I could only laugh and laugh I did, loudly and from the belly. I think I may have disturbed a few locals. A lap of the Plaza and it was coffee time! A delicious coffee from a trailer and a bit of people watching. It wasn't the hidden cup but the place didn't speak to me at all. The coffee was good, the girl was friendly and smiley but I wasn't feeling much at all.
By rights I should have been happy with myself - out of Manizales in the rain, the ankle was ok and I'd arrived with lots of time to explore. But there was nothing down there or over there that called out to me.
Out with Osmand, a new route to Gizmo and off I went!

*Beside the Plaza were stone tables with chessboards. Mani's more of a Ludo tiger*



​There was a backroad option but I had some climbing in my future and I thought discretion the better part of valour in this case. I took some back streets back down to the Coffee Highway.





​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Nov 2021)

Day 787, Monday, November 08, 2021, Manizales to Santa Rosa de Cabal, 40km Total KM 13681
Min meters 1237, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 703 Total Descent 1141
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 23

Part 2

Somewhere since I had left it, the highway had managed to lose one of its carriageways, a rather careless thing to do. It had, however, found a pretty decent shoulder so I was probably better off. I now had more freedom to stop. And I did.

*Coffee Country!*



​The Autopista del café is not just some marketing shtick stuck on a sign. It's not so described to put a bit of fizz in a random bike tourist. The road goes through coffee country and for this coffee lover it was wonderful! 

*Marketing shtick*



​Coffee country isn't just coffee plants. It's lots of plants. In Honduras, I'd learned that larger trees are often planted with coffee plants to provide a canopy that protects the coffee. Here, in this part of Colombia they use banana trees! There's something about banana trees that bring out the excited child in me! They're exotic! Tropical! A very obvious and distinct sign that I'm a long way from home! 

_*I'm a little disappointed at how the photos turned out *_



​The countryside is rolling hills and they're filled with plants and life. There is a wonderful, wild disorder to the scene with few "fields", just plants everywhere and the odd, random house thrown in for good measure. It's beautifully Latin - chaos that just works.

*Chaos that works!*



​I was totally charmed! I'm riding my bike in coffee country! On the Autopista del café no less! Yet another (vague) concept meeting reality moment and the reality far, far exceeding anything I could have expected. I'm not sure that many people would feel the same way as my caffeine addicted self but it was thrilling! 

*I was on a main road with regular traffic but I only had eyes for the countryside



*​The cycling was going fine. I'd a longish climb, then rolling hills before a final little ascent. I caught myself looking at Gizmo and thinking "150 meters to go" and having a little giggle. After the Alto de Letras that's nothing!







The rolling section was probably the best part as I rose and fell between the hills. Sometimes the views extended further away but I only had eyes for the coffee (and banana!) plants.

*The young plants have some kind of order but the countryside is untamed, rolling, rising and falling as it likes*



​For a good chunk of the day I'd also been seeing a different type of tree with thin branches and wide, light, fernlike leaves. They were normally in groups and made a pretty vivid impression. More things to charm me! I eventually discovered they're Bamboo trees! Useful and very pretty! 

_*A bit of everything! It's not particularly clear in the gloomy photo but the bunches of bamboo trees struck me as being like someone had fired bright green rockets at the hillside and the light green bamboo trees were the explosions when they impacted.*_



​My ankle was coping admirably with the effort of climbing and I was thoroughly enjoying the journey. I was almost a little sad when I turned off to Santa Rosa de Cabal and started the long (very long) approach to the Plaza. I passed at least three churches along the way so long was the approach. Streets narrowed as I got closer and traffic slowed. 

*There's no order (that I can see) to the landscape. I'm enjoying the disorder!*



​I'd barely arrived when I was engaged in conversation by a local. Now this is a friendly place! I got a coffee (€0,13!) from a street vendor and plonked myself on one of the fanciest benches I've seen in a while. But I couldn't stay sitting! I had to look. See. Absorb. That requires standing and walking, sore ankle or no. 

*Coffee country - as stimulating as its product!*



​It's a delightful little place, a wide open Plaza, well manicured, if simple, vegetation and wonderfully big, bright bird sculptures. The only trees were around the edges, tall pine trees, not something I normally like but here it just works.

I was home! 

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (9 Nov 2021)

Day 787, Monday, November 08, 2021, Santa Rosa de Cabal, 

I've said it before and I'll say it again - I feel very comfortable in small town Colombia, and to be accurate, Santa Rosa isn't small, but it has that small town feeling. 

*Comfy in the Plaza*



​The chap who sold me my coffee was hospitality defined. I was pleased to see a long queue form at his little stand later and not get much smaller, in contrast to a fancier coffee set up incorporated into a jeep. When I walked past the jeep (no customers) I was ignored. Sometimes it's the simple things.

*The Plaza has a few of these - bright metal statues of birds. Different and they bring life to the open Plaza*



​The bike parked, walking up and down along the Plaza, sipping my coffee was a pleasure. I met two young people and how can I put this.... I can't remember the guy's name but I'll probably never forget hers!
I may have misunderstood that he was on a bike from Bogotá to Ecuador for six months (even I don't go that slow!) It's probably more likely that he's going to go on a bike ride to Ecuador in six months. What can I say, I was a tad distracted ,😊

*A very tiny church that I passed on the long entry to to town. (I had to wait ages for someone to walk by for a bit of scale!)*



​I had no accommodation organised and didn't feel in the slightest bit stressed about that. I call it the "Colombian feeling" - everything will work out.
A few drops of rain and I got my ass into gear though. I'm comfortable not dumb!

*It's a long town, streets stretching away in all directions*



​Booking had mega expensive places and Google had lots. Choosing a hostel at random as a starting point I set off pushing the bike - the best way to see everything. Arriving at the hostel it looked closed and when no-one answered the door I assumed it was. Just across the road was a small hotel that looked sufficiently cheap. A very pleasant lady (and her equally pleasant and friendly daughter) checked me in and put Roccado away safely. It's nothing to write home about but they're friendly, the wifi is good and the water in the shower is piping! 

*The Church, nope, the Basilica!*



​A quick shower and off out to explore.
Santa Rosa is long - in every direction. Reasonably flat, the streets stretch out in each direction. It's quite big but with the narrow streets, the pleasant, friendly Plaza it does a very good impression of a busy much smaller place.
Historically, it's wealth came from coffee and nowadays it does a steady line in tourism. On a November Monday evening that doesn't bother me.

*There's a lot of wood in these churches!*



​There's really not much to the place if the trendy coffee places and the pub (an English pub with the moniker Señor Cock!) can be ignored - something I'm quite adept at. With lots of shops and a large municipal market it's like a lot of other places but there's something unquantifiable that I like. Something in the air. 

I'm glad I pushed on.

*Stained glass representing the "Stations of the Cross"*



​I found a Mexican restaurant for dinner. I hesitated before going up the stairs for fear that I'd be disappointed. It looked like a themed Mexican restaurant that could be seen anywhere - except México!
It had knives and forks and glasses and the food was served on proper plates with ne'er a plastic bag to be seen so it failed in the authenticity stakes!






I spent so long looking at the menu I was afraid they were going to close! It was like meeting old friends after an absence of way too long. I couldn't choose! In the end I went for a combo platter - a little of everything. It arrived suspiciously quickly and was ok. Only ok. There were some fancy sauces served with it (in fancy little dishes, not a repurposed butter tub anywhere!) which were very good, but I hadn't come across them in México. The dishes themselves lacked flavour and heat. 
A sad thought: This is probably my future with Méxican food - pale, bland imitations.
They did have a Día de Muertos altar, though. 
Confession time. A couple of weeks ago I spotted a "Catarina" skull decoration in a shop window and had real pangs. It was about a week before the actual Día de Muertos and I let myself dream for a while of parking the bike and catching a plane to CDMX. Ha! Dumbass! You've flown enough for a while!
My Facebook started to fill up with pictures as well. I thought I was finished with the Día de Muertos but I guess not. It's a good thing to have a dream, no?

Service was very unMexican - there wasn't a smile at all.

*No motorised cars here!! Pile as many kids as possible into a home made car and an aul' fella (he also had a young helper) will push you around the Plaza, cleverly steering from behind. I loved it!!*



​The bill when I got it had a "suggested tip" added on, something I dislike intensely. Especially since there was nothing done that merited a tip. When I tipped my pleasant coffee girl this afternoon I had to explain what I was doing. Ditto my coffee man in the park. Looking closer at the bill it actually says something like "This is not your bill, it is an approximation of your bill". For such bland food I'd a weird taste in my mouth leaving.

*Humming bird*



​By now it was cold. I took another stroll around. A man walking his Shepherd pup in the Plaza, the little fella darting hither and tither having great fun. A bunch of young fellas hanging around outside a Pizza joint started running down the street so suddenly I looked for the cops. As it turned out they were chasing a truck to jump on a ledge at the back and get a lift to wherever it was going! 


I saw more people sleeping rough since I'd arrived than I have in quite a while. In such a prosperous place it seemed more significant. 

With nothing else to see I slowly wandered home. And treated myself to some music on YouTube. Good wifi!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Nov 2021)

Day 788, Tuesday, November 09, 2021, Santa Rosa de Cabal to Alcalá, 68 km Total KM 13749
Min meters 955, Max Meters 1783
Total Climb 894 Total Descent 1334
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 25

No room at the Inn! 

I had a late night last night, completely unintentionally. The wifi was excellent and I found myself playing YouTube video after YouTube video. It started with Mary Chapin Carpenter, progressed to Lucinda Williams and finished with Leonard Cohen. I went to sleep a very happy chappy.

There were no great intentions of heading off early, Santa Rosa deserved a bit more time. I got up, showered (hot!) and went on a coffee quest. Easily satisfied! I ate at a bakery enjoying an omelette and then witnessed some kind of protest with speakers blasting themselves through amps to a very small crowd. I couldn't make head nor tail of it but one female speaker was very agitated. It was only a few months ago that there were riots over Covid restrictions here. 

*Getting out of town involved a crazy drop then a brutal climb but look at the view I got!*



​I toddled slowly back to the hotel and got organised. My ankle was sore and actually had been last night too. Too warm to get under the covers my feet tended to hang off the end of the bed and that wasn't good for the ankle. There's some big climbing down the road so I'll need to keep an eye on it and not force anything.

Leaving town a man saw me and he stopped walking and just stared at me. There was nothing remotely threatening because it was clear, even through a facemask, that he was beaming if not at me specifically at the concept of an adventure on a bike. I gave him a big wave and a cheery greeting his happiness transferring over to me.

*That's the Coffee Highway - I wasn't taking it today



*​Despite a lot of heavy rain through the night there were no obvious signs of it. The rain is causing problems according to the news and Google keeps throwing up landslide warnings! I'd one last trip by the Plaza and headed down then up out of town.

Cartago was where I was headed, about 40km away and most of that downhill. Or so I thought! A threatening sky set the mood but the rain was to threaten then hold off for a lot of the day. 

*This was my road. Two lanes but with a shoulder. Very pleasant cycling*



​I was taking a different road today than yesterday. Ha! I get all excited about the Coffee Highway one day then promptly turn off it the next! I ain't ever satisfied!
Truthfully, I was trying to avoid Pereira, a pretty big city. Tim Tower had ridden past it (some years ago now) and used the word "scary" to describe the traffic. Tim's not a man that uses hyperbole and that one word was enough to encourage me to look at alternatives. 

*Just look at all that greenery!*



​There was traffic, and lots of it at times, and I did get close to Pereira but I had no problems. Like yesterday, when the road was two lanes I took the lane, when only one they laid on a shoulder for me. Can't complain about that! 

*Split highway, no (usable) shoulder and lots of traffic. In Colombia that's not a problem!*




​I was disturbed though when an articulated truck with a flatbed trailer passed me with a young fella moving around trying to make himself comfortable behind some pallets. Whether the driver knew he was there or not I know not.

*Baby coffee planted on the hillside. It seems to be a robust plant and altitude seems to be the most significant determinant of whether it thrives or not *



​There were a few sharp climbs to get out of the way but then I was descending. And fast! The road wasn't in as good nick as yesterday but still pretty decent. There were some amazingly sharp and steep switchbacks to add to the fun. And water! It may not have been raining but many times today I encountered little streams running across the road. There is a lot of man made irrigation on the hills to funnel water into controlled channels but sometimes things get blocked up.

*Despite the wildness of all the trees there are still cultivated areas up high. Remember, pretty much all the work around here is done by hand! It's not unusual to see motorbikes zipping along the road with tools attached, then later to see a lone motorbike parked up in the middle of nowhere. Someone is tending to a crop.*



​I met Marcelo when I had pulled in for a photo. We had a conversation that felt a bit more like an interrogation. He'd been cycling with a buddy and after he left me had obviously told his friend about me because when I set off again they were waiting for me down the road and flagged me down. This time was more like a proper conversation. They wanted to buy me a beer but I declined at that hour of the morning. They were either impresssed or appalled at my baggage but when I casually dropped into the conversation that I'd conquered the Alto de Letras I acquired hero status! And yes, I did tell them I had done it over three days!
Having some Spanish is really great in these situations. I can have a normal chat, make jokes, receive information (a warning about further down the road) and, I have to say it, enjoy the compliments that come my way. 
There is something about a long bike trip that is just so inspiring for a lot of people. I laugh off suggestions that I'm super fit, brave or possess any other rare quality. The guys were obsessed with the weight I carry but the things I carry I either need or they help me to be comfortable and to enjoy the trip. 

*The road into Cartago. Not bad at all!*



​Cartago is a big town and the approach is busy but on my shoulder I was fine. I didn't know what to expect but getting close to the centre I passed, what for me, is a real church.

*What a beautiful, old, simple church! Unfortunately there was no way of getting in! The Catholic Church is known for not having an exit option - this one had no way in!



*​The Park in the centre charmed me so much that I did two laps of it. Full of greenery and people with lots of coffee vendors it was a real meeting place. I had a coffee and decided to stay. There was no church here at the Park but I could see a tall, gleaming, white steeple down the road. Accommodation options were expensive but I'd spied a "Residencia", normally cheap rooms. Any of the cheaper hotels were all upstairs and I'd prefer to avoid those with my ankle.

*Today's río - fast and furious!



*​I relaxed and let Cartago wash over me from my vantage point in the Plaza over a couple of coffees.

I rolled around to the Residencia (great location) and got a shock when the woman there wouldn't take me! I had too much gear! Uh oh! I decided to head down to the big spire (A cathedral as it turned out) only to feel cheated! A very impressive building, but nothing of a church about it and the spire was totally separate. I did a lap around the centre seeing lots of hotels but all upstairs. Getting up isn't the problem, it's carrying the bike down the next morning that worries me.

Oh well. Time to move on! 

To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Nov 2021)

Day 788, Tuesday, November 09, 2021, Santa Rosa de Cabal to Alcalá, 68 km Total KM 13749
Min meters 955, Max Meters 1783
Total Climb 894 Total Descent 1334
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 25

No room at the Inn! 

Part Two

I got out of Cartago and immediately started a big climb. I'd have about 500 meters of climbing split between two each of about 250m.
Half way up I had a look at the time and thought I might have left it a bit late.

*This is the Cathedral in Cartago, difficult to photograph because it faces onto a narrow street. I couldn't imagine a building more unsuited to honour a carpenter's son and it left me cold. Even if the doors were wide open I don't think I'd have bothered looking.*



​My destination was Alcalá, a tiny town on the map that had at least one place to stay. 
Traffic was much, much less and the road was ok. Views were frustrating because there was invariably something in the way, either trees or small hills or little roadside cliffs. 
In fact, with so many cliffs of just earth it was easy to understand why there are so many landslide warnings in these parts. Back on the main road I had passed a big warning light (off) that I eventually figured out was an early warning for landslides! There were some wonderful trees though and I often got to cycle under atmospheric canopies of trees.

*The spire of the Cathedral, separate from the main building. I felt a little cheated having seen it from a long way away. But then I saw the Cathedral itself and figured if I was the spire I'd want distance between the monstrosity and myself too!*



​I was surprised at myself and the progress I was making. The road levelled off after the first climb then dropped most of the meters that I'd need to climb again. Then slowly upwards.

*The Plaza in Cartago, the beating heart of the city, beating strongly with lots of trees and people. A very pleasant, charming place. *



​This is clearly a touristy road. There were a lot of roadside food places, although most were closed as I passed. One or two expensive farm hotels too. With a little time pressure off I could relax a bit so I did. After the climb it was more level but a gentle gradient upwards.

*Views were few but the landscape was pleasant and interesting. Truthfully, with little cliffs and interesting trees and bushes along the road I didn't think I was missing too much*



​As I was approaching the little Plaza riding in traffic a man took one look at me and broke into a huge beaming smile! His poor wife or girlfriend bore the brunt of his enthusiasm as he pounded on her shoulder to draw her attention to me. She did not look as enthusiastic!

*With height comes perspective!



*​I arrived in the centre of the little town of Alcalá and just Wow!
There is a spectacular tree (Salman is its name) in the Plaza in front of the church. A local, seeing my reaction came over to tell me about it! At just over 100 years old it is a monster! A beautiful, impressive monster! 

*Another río, powerful and raging it was carrying lots of tree trunks and other debris*



​I dawdled and wandered around it admiring it from every angle. I'm sure a few locals were bemused. Around the base of the tree is a wall painted with representations of local birds with a small bit of info. I love how these things are done for kids - in my mind it's always for kids, of any age.
Opposite, the municipal buildings are boring and functional in design - but certainly not in colour! Lots of bright colours make it a very interesting, attractive and pleasant place. 

*More sedate water! *



​I saw an expensive looking Apart hotel on a corner but wandered around to a hostal and got a family room for a cheap price - I was the only guest. Run by a couple originally from Bogotá it's a step up in standards at a reduction in cost. But the couple! Oh lord did they talk! Well, to be fair, he did. Constantly asking questions, not waiting for an answer and diving in again. It was exhausting! 
I made some excuses and popped out to go back to the Plaza for my traditional coffee having to fight off the offer to stay in for a coffee. 
I don't mean to be ungrateful but I have things I like to do and a coffee at the Plaza is one.

*There were some views!



*​Dark now, I enjoyed the calm. There's not much else in the town itself other than shops. I wandered back to the hostal for a hot shower and went out to buy things to cook. In the supermarket I could find nothing to tickle my tastebuds so bought breakfast instead and had some chicken and pastries. 

*The mighty, mighty Salman! 



*​Then back to a very comfy bed! I was very tired! 

*Sometimes the road is so interesting, so atmospheric I don't miss the views*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Nov 2021)

Day 789, Wednesday, November 10, 2021, Alcalá to Filandia, 25 km Total KM 13774
Min meters 1236, Max Meters 1940
Total Climb 881 Total Descent 210
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 25

Café y Leche

I was in no rush getting up and as soon as I did I was back in the constant questioning zone. It became annoying when my answers were ignored and I'd have to repeat myself later for a different question. There was no malice but it was exhausting. My breakfast was ruined, only eating a small amount of granola and not even bothering to cook the eggs I had bought. No peace! No appetite!

*Once on the road for some reason I forgot all the petty annoyances of the morning. I can't for the life of me figure out why*



​He was very surprised that I didn't have a wife nor children. Did he really think I'd be able to travel for two years if I did??
It's a common question though. Some people, mainly younger men, see it as almost the perfect condition - free and on the road. 
The fact is people seem to settle down young here. Young women, not much older than girls often have babies in tow. I guess the fact of a guy getting close to 50 without those ties is unusual, never mind the fact that he's on an old bike! 

He even brought out his own carbon MTB wanting me to weigh it. Yes, I know it's lighter than mine. I was horrified at the thought that he might want to join me! 
I packed up and got away free and clear! 

*The approach to Quimbaya



*​For a town that has a special coffee status there was precious little coffee on the road as I left. It was cattle country, dairy by the looks of things. Coffee and milk - a pretty good combination. There were, however, lots of trees and I like those too! 

I was heading towards Quimbaya only a few kms down the road. What seemed relatively flat on Gizmo was actually a lot of up and down. A decent road, reasonable traffic and pleasant scenery all added up to an enjoyable ride. At Quimbaya I'd make a decision on where to go. The outside option was to continue in the road to a coffee themed amusement park. I do like my amusement parks but on my own? I'm not so sure. And there'd be issues parking Roccado.

My apprehension of motorbikes has abated but never died so when a motorbike slowed down coming up behind me I moved into alert mode. It was a girl and between the noise of her bike and her helmet I couldn't understand what she was saying. Having conversations between moving traffic is, apparently, common in Colombia! 
With no hesitation she pulled in to talk properly, her smile beaming through her helmet. She'd seen me in Chinchina on Monday and was impressed with my progress. She recognised the bike immediately - surprisingly describing it as the blue and yellow bike, not the bike with all the baggage! She just wanted to congratulate me and wish me a good journey! 

Later, on the outskirts of Quimbaya another chica* on a motorbike pulled me over. Perhaps I'm becoming irresistible to the local señoritas! Alas, no. She just wanted to know if I'd passed any Police on my way! It's the second time this has happened. I think there's a new compulsory insurance required and that the motorbikes are slow to acquire it.

*Chica (or the masculine chico is not (as far as I'm aware) anything on a par with "chick". Climb off the high horses I'm not a sexist pig (at least based on that sentence )

Quimbaya started off a bit rough but by the time I got to the Plaza I looked down to check that I still had my shorts on - the place could have charmed the pants off me! 
A delightful Plaza with lots of tall trees, lots of colour, lots of people was one aspect. A modern church that actually looked good was another. The friendly, relaxed atmosphere was the final component. I could have stayed but it was only 11 am. I did a couple of laps of the Plaza and discovered a series of "local hero" displays. A photo with a description of a local character, their history and their contribution to the town. I was enthralled. From the shoe shine guy to an Athletics coach, a blow-in photographer to a lady making and selling artesenal crafts. 
Local heroes! What a simple, good and cynicism free exercise! 

*Quimbaya; The church, a pedestrian street and a local hero. A delightful, charming town it would have been so, so easy to stay.*



​I got a bite to eat and headed on. A Theme park wasn't on the menu after that. I wanted more small town experiences.

Next up, via a smaller road was Filandia (no, I'm not missing an "n"). 
The road wasted no time in challenging me with a hefty double figure gradient. I'd about 700 meters to climb but these numbers aren't fazing me at the moment.

*Wandering through such pleasant countryside I was really enjoying myself despite all the climbing*



​For a small road it put a big smile on my face. At times it was brutally tough but never unpleasant. It simultaneously kicked my ass and with vegetation trying to take over the narrow road it gave me the closest thing to a hug that a road can give. Bright, cheerful buildings along the road dropped random explosions of colour into the mix and often vivid plants burst out of all the green. I was thoroughly enjoying myself, humming away as I laboured up, singing when it levelled off, so much so that I forgot the reason I was here. 

*No words*



​Then the road reminded me in spectacular style. Out of nowhere, it seemed, the road started running high up along a river valley, sheer, clay cliffs covered in vegetation to my right, a steep drop filled with all kinds of trees and plants, including coffee, lots and lots of coffee, to my left. 
The road even laid on a crash barrier for me to stop and rest.
Looking now the pictures can only give a glimpse of what I saw. 

*The road is running along the right, twisting and turning to follow the valley. The valley itself is just full of colour, life and coffee. As pictures go this is pretty crap but as feelings go this was a fantastic feeling. Traffic was scarce so I could easily believe I was alone, in a rural valley far, far away from the big, bad world. And coffee! Lots and lots of coffee!*



​There was a total lack of order to this valley which I found incredibly interesting because it was full of coffee plants - that didn't happen by accident.
The variety of plants, of greens, of life was verging on overpowering. Every scene was full of life - all different kinds of life.
Then there was the road itself, following the twists of the valley that just struck me as so ..... romantic. A little, twisty road through the coffee! 
Best of all, the coffee was right there - I could put my hand out and touch it. 
I've no idea why this area is hitting all the spots but it really, really is! 

*Just picking any area at random and paying a bit of attention I was blown away by the depth and variety of plant life.*



​I was in no rush here. I walked up and down the road soaking it all up. Traffic, the little there was, was very respectful, generally friendly and often enthusiastically so. I'm convinced that people respond enthusiastically to an obvious outsider enjoying their "place". 

Heading off again I left my magical coffee valley (yes, it's mine!) and returned to more conventional countryside. In these parts "conventional countryside" means banana trees (and some Palm ones too!).
I am spoilt! 

*Conventional countryside!*



​The Touring Gods have ways of keeping my self obsession in check. Lots of ways. Today they chose a simple one - rain, and lots of it!

At first I tried to power through but that wasn't working well. A wind had come from nowhere too and wasn't helping much. Yesterday in the dry I had little rivers on the road so today I had rivers in full flood! The ones running across the road are fine, the ones running down the road not so much. They actually have little waves and as I slowly laboured uphill the wave motion could become very disorienting if I looked at it too long.
Then there's passing traffic and the spray they generate through these little rivers! There's just no staying dry!
Twice my hopes were raised of some shelter when I saw a tall gate with a roof but each time the space was occupied with motorcyclists! 
I eventually found an unoccupied one and passed a very dull 40 minutes or so until the sky brightened. 

Setting off again, still raining, but lightly, I could be forgiven for thinking that the worst was over. The worst was over but the entertainment wasn't!
Directly in front of me there was a blinding flash of lightning and while I was still reeling there was an almighty crash of thunder.
Thunder rolls is the normal phraseology but not in these parts. Yes, it can roll, the sound imitating rocks rolling down a hill and slowly fading away, but not today! 
"Crash" doesn't do justice to the scale, volume and suggestion of destruction that this thunder demands. It's quite thrilling, actually!
But it does raise the question - just what the hell is a bike tourist supposed to do in a thunderstorm? Damned if I know! 

*On one hairpin bend the entire cliff had been decorated. I'm clearly in Tourist Country but in a car there is no place to stop. Me? I stop where I want*



​The climbing to Filandia had been very tough. It wasn't a constant climb, there were times when it levelled off giving me a break and even a few short descents. The problem was that the meters were regained very steeply. 1900 meters was my target and the descents (and loss of meters) didn't bother me at all. Thank you Alto de Letras!

The approach to Filandia had me starting to think that I should have stayed in Quimbaya but that went away when I pulled into a very pleasant, very bright Plaza. I was busy congratulating myself when the Touring Gods tut tutted, asked themselves if I'll ever learn and turned on the taps again! 

I found shelter under a tree, bought a coffee and tried to look on the bright side.

*Up high and with lighter rain I could see again!*



​My introduction to Maria was a bit confusing because she took me for a German! Her logic, for which I mocked her mercilessly, was that only Germans do things like ride bikes in far away places! She won't make that mistake in a hurry again!
She's a student from Berlin studying here having had to return to Germany during the Pandemic. A German student studying in Colombia through English! Interesting! 

She gave me a tip on a hostel on the edge of town so when we parted ways I headed out there. Basic enough but with great views over the valley. 

Dark now, I had a shower, threw on some warm clothes and set off to explore the town. My down jacket is suddenly getting a lot of use.

The town didn't do a lot for me but that's probably down to me, not the town. A bright, colourful town should be seen in daylight and preferably without rain. 
It also helps to be able to walk around comfortably and my ankle wasn't cooperating with that. 
I got a bite to eat and wandered back to the hostal. I was home about five minutes when the heavens opened. I think I had enough rain for the day. It was surprisingly cold so I snuggled up in bed.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Nov 2021)

Day 789, Wednesday, November 10, 2021, Filandia

*On the approach to Filandia. Clearly coffee is a big deal!







The church*








*This guy appeared to be making a music video. He was singing unaccompanied while someone recorded him with a phone. The two dancing girls were very good!








Street Art*








*An interesting ceiling in a tea room. A tea room in coffee country!!!! *








*The Plaza in better weather (I keep referring to Plazas but to the locals they are parks)*







*Typical buildings in these parts, brightly coloured and lots of balconies*








*Sometimes the colour schemes can be very detailed*








*Very typical; Public transport Jeeps lined up waiting for passengers. *







*While there may be a long approach to the town hills, mountains and the countryside are never far away*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098
​


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Nov 2021)

Day 790, Thursday, November 11, 2021, Filandia to Salento, 21 km Total KM 13795
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 3137
Total Climb 554 Total Descent 462
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 21

From a road with purpose to one with soul

Here's the thing with an immersively enthralling journey - the destination is bound to suffer! 

I got up, packed up and rolled back up into the town. I wanted to spend a bit of time in it when it was neither dark nor raining. As pretty as the town is I felt it lacked something. I had been really, really impressed with the "Local Hero" posters in Quimbaya yesterday. They spoke to a beating heart in the town, a heart of respect and compassion. I was struggling to find the beating heart in Filandia, but my arrival had been less than optimum and my wanderings these days are limited by my ankle - still annoyingly painful.
I do like the bright, painted buildings but I'm unsure if they're traditional or done for the tourists. I had some breakfast on the Plaza and watched the town go about its early morning business. Then I set off.

*A decent, pleasant road but one where the traffic had a purpose. Slightly less friendly than other roads*



​The road out of town dropped scarily, then levelled off (by Latin standards). It would be rising soon enough! 
This was a road to nowhere, linking up as it was with the Coffee Highway either to Armenia or Pereira. For that reason I concluded that the traffic drove with purpose, or a slight less consideration than yesterday.
While the road surface could be tricky the countryside was pleasant and became a whole lot more interesting when I entered a "Biological corridor" complete with warnings about monkeys and snakes!

*You have my permission to copy this photo to save or print out for those days that you're bored on a bike! A snake warning wipes away that boredom!



*​I have discovered the way to make even the most boring, dull and uninspirational bike ride more interesting - stick a snake warning sign at the start! My day was far from boring, dull and uninspirational but that snake sign stuck in my head until I arrived and kept me on my toes (literally!) all day long!

It didn't take too long for the climbing to kick in so I kicked back and relaxed. For some reason since the Alto de Letras neither Gizmo nor Osmand are scaring the crap out of me! 
Like yesterday there were some brutally steep sections but also more level ones. 
I rejoined the Coffee Highway and continued to climb although now I had company in the form of a lot of cyclists. 
Having stopped near the top for a photo I was bemused to see a cyclist behind me stand on the pedals, overtake me with zero response to my cheerful greeting only to plonk back down in front of me and actually slow me down! All this about 100 meters from the top! 

*A big coffee cup! I can only be on the Coffee Highway again!*



​I pulled in for a coffee and a ball of fried dough then wrapped up for the descent. I was going to drop down for a while then leave the coffee highway again for the run down then up, up, up to Salento, another coffee village.

*Those random silver trees in the distance enthralled me! I crossed 4 lanes of traffic climbing over the central median to take this shot. I have no idea what they are but there's something wonderful about the randomness of their dispersal and magical about their colour. In real life it's a real Wow! moment*



​I took the slightly awkward turn off and entered another world. Quite literally! It wasn't even like the road leaving Filandia though if you looked at it on Google Streetview you'd struggle to tell the difference in terms of size or quality. 
This road had a soul! It was tangible and all around. There were sights, sounds and smells that hit me as soon as I turned onto it that stayed the whole way to Salento.

*From the Coffee Highway to the Soulway*



​Of course it helped that my introduction was downhill and I met a sign warning me of wild animals crossing. Just words, no pictures - a license for my imagination to fire up!
The sky was a threatening, angry, dull grey as it had been for most of the day but something told me that it wasn't going to rain on this road. The Touring Gods aren't that pernicious!

There was a huge mix of trees all around, all wet and damp and alive, with lots of wonderfully silver coloured trees that put me in mind of the yellow ones of a few weeks ago that were little explosions of colour.

*Those silver trees give me goosebumps!*



​But best of all were the giant ferns! Huge, wild and gripping tenaciously to the sides of roadside cliffs. In the land of coffee, of palm and banana trees I'm suddenly thrilled and excited by ferns!
Stopping to take photos I got more evidence of the soul of the road - traffic with much less of a purpose. Lots of space given, lots of waves and smiles as I negotiated the soft, damp (and snake infested!) roadside trying to get a few shots. 

*Giant, mutant ferns! I can't possibly begin to understand why they thrilled me so much and to be honest I don't really care! I just know that they do and there were lots of them so I had a very thrilling ride!*



​I think I'm going to have to start watching more of the news. I'm expecting there to be news reports of some kind of a loon seen hobbling along the side of the road, a wide grin plastered across his face staring at "normal" things, a ridiculously packed bike parked up somewhere along the road.

*Lots of open space too. For such a short road it fairly packed a lot in!*



​One thing that put me off initially was the litter along the road. Except it wasn't litter. It was giant leaves, fallen, dehydrated and lacking colour then broken up and herded by wind and water into roadside bundles. Dumbass!

*And a forest!*







*And lots and lots of lush, luxuriant greenery*



​To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Nov 2021)

Day 790, Thursday, November 11, 2021, Filandia to Salento, 21 km Total KM 13795
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 3137
Total Climb 554 Total Descent 462
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 21

From a road with purpose to one with soul

Part Two

Way off from another galaxy I'd catch the ocasional sound of a motorbike screaming along the Coffee Highway as if to say "Hey, what happened? You were so excited to be on this road a few days ago!". I guess it just goes to show what a fickle fecker I am!

*This was a difficult shot to take. There's a crevasse running up that hill which is populated by my mysterious silver trees. Enthralled and intrigued I was.*



​The climbing was tough at times but I was thoroughly enjoying where it brought me. Under canopies of trees, around bends with more life in a tiny compact area than I'd see for miles on other roads. Along open valleys with forests on the other side or through farmland with soft, rolling hills. It really was spectacular and so, so varied. Given the relatively short distance I covered it's a testament to the country that I passed through such different landscapes.

*What a place to take a break!



*​I had to be careful - the road was pretty narrow, the sides were wet, slippy and full of flora debris. I often had to park the bike and walk back to get a photo, invariably seeing more on foot than I did on the bike. If my ankle wasn't screaming in protest I'd have been pushing the bike simply to make the most of the views.

*From a canopy of trees over the road to a wide open landscape the Touring Gods were delivering!*



​Getting close to Salento I rounded a bend and saw Fred Flintstone's car and burst out laughing. I had to stop! 

*I loved this!! (The note says $1000 for photos - about €0,20)*



​As it turned out it was a part of a café and unusual artesenal store with lots of things made from wood and scrap metal.
The artist was very welcoming and understood when I swiftly declared that I wouldn't be buying anything. There was a real originality to the work but also such a range from a fighter airplane to a crucifix.

*Photos were difficult but I wanted to remember these; a yacht, a fighter jet and a crucifix*



​As someone without an artistic bone in his body I am envious of people who can sit down, envisage an end product and then set about achieving it. A wooden carved dolphin atop an old suspension spring looked great until I realised that if I touched the dolphin he started jumping as if he was surging through the sea getting ready to explode into the air. Such life in wood and metal! 

*A very poor photo of a fantastic bit of art. Best of all, art that can be played with and brought to life. It really was spectacular when in motion*



​I had a coffee while admiring the work and checked Gizmo before setting off again - 1.7 km to go. 120 meters climbing. 
I didn't measure it but I reckon it took half an hour to do that last 1.7km I have feck all photos - it wasn't about recording, it was about soaking up and feeling.

*Nearly at my destination and the angry sky never moved past angry. The Touring Gods were in a benevolent mood today*



​Salento, as seems to be the way of these towns, keeps its jewels safely guarded in the centre making us trundle along, and up, some rough streets to find them.

*Peeking through a gap on the side of the road there's pasture and more hills. This countryside is not dull! *​





My initial reaction on arrival at the Plaza was meh, more of the same. The view of the Plaza is blocked by semi permanent stalls selling crafts and I arrived on the day that they're decorating the Plaza for Christmas. Christmas!!! 

*Another peek through the side of the road at young coffee plants. The work and effort it must take to tend them!*



​There are bright buildings, an unusual but uninspiring church but the soul of the road has disappeared. It's very touristy and I've actually seen some (foreign) tourists. I think I prefer when I'm the only tourist in the village

*Today's ríos; a babbling brook and a raging monster!*



​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Nov 2021)

Day 790, Thursday, November 11, 2021, Salento

With no stalls on the Plaza actually serving coffee I retired to an real café for one, then another, coffee and wrote up my notes. It's a great exercise to do while everything is still fresh and before I move on to the next phase of finding a place to stay.
As for finding a place to stay I was very relaxed. There is no shortage of places to stay, although most are either hostels or expensive.

*The approach into Salento*




​A review of one place in particular on Booking put it to the top of my list and I eventually set off to find it. A wonderful old building, basic facilities but wonderfully charming hosts. Because I'd shown up with no reservation I got a price less than shown on Booking. When I got my change I split it with my host so we both benefit. Meanwhile his wife had made me coffee (Yes! More coffee! Trust me, if you were here you'd understand!) and then sat me down to run through the highlights of the town with a little map. Simple, effective but most importantly, very, very genuine.
A space was cleared for me to do some laundry (by hand) with soap supplied and I had the use of the washing line to dry everything.
Fabulous, fabulous hospitality.

*Wandering dogs are very common, most too well fed and in good nick to be strays. People, it seems, are very relaxed about letting their dogs wander. This fella made friends over my coffee*



​I showered, did my laundry and set out to explore. My first stop was a Mirador, a viewing point high on a hill, then a walk to another one. There were a surprising number of (Colombian) tourists knocking around. Then down to the centre for a wander.

*These towns can be steep! And greenery and mountains are never too far away



*​It's another steep town and depending on the side of the Plaza the countryside can be very close. And impressive. I took a stroll through the Plaza to see how the Christmas decorations are going. The jeeps, so popular for public transport, seem to feature prominently as do palm trees - fake ones amidst all the real ones. I was very amused.

*Not the normal views I associate with a town!*



​One of the things I really, really like about the Plazas around and about here are the "push cars" as I call them. I thought México and its battery powered little cars was the height of simple, child centred fun but Colombia is schooling me. This probably comes across as insufferably patronising but I love the simplicity of kids being pushed around the Plaza in a toy car.
The detail is often excellent, the cars often show their age but they represent something of the "old world" that isn't just hanging on but seems to be thriving. Elsewhere on the Plaza is a teeny, tiny carousel that can carry maybe four or six very small kids. That says the same thing.

*From one of the two miradors (viewing points) above the town*



​There are a lot of "touristy" shops and I did pass one hostel with a bar blasting out "young people" music (Jeez! I'm really old, aren't I?) but that was an exception.

*The Plaza, the church and lots of jeeps!



*​With a rumbling belly and a few recommendations from my hostess I went looking for food. Beside one of her recommendations was a much less formal place and as I perused the menu outside the man came out to point out what didn't have meat. Apparently being mistaken for a German yesterday wasn't insulting enough, today I was being mistaken for a vegetarian!
I went in anyway because I wanted to try something I haven't seen before: Fried banana with toppings.
When it came I let out a gasp - it was huge! Basically, very thin banana topped like a pizza served with guacamole and a sweet, fruity salsa. It was feckin' delicious!

*The Municipal Offices - not the brightest building on the block!*



​Unfortunately, as I ate the heavens opened, thunder crashed, lighting crackled and the steep street outside became a river. The rain here is something else! I waited as long as I could but eventually they were closing then off for a hot chocolate.






It's a tough old life!








Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Nov 2021)

Day 791, Friday, November 12, 2021, Salento to Salento, 26 km Total KM 13821
Min meters 2036, Max Meters 2962
Total Climb 890 Total Descent 918
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 18

Changing Plans; Ah, to be a relaxed bike tourist!

Part 1
Early, early morning Salento

I was awake much earlier than has been normal of late but the sound of rain kept me in my bed. It's a great feeling to wake up contented and totally at ease, all the more so in a country on the other side of the world. I am really feeling at peace here, very comfortable, very safe. Most mornings I wouldn't make a bet as to where I'd be laying my head that night because I'd probably lose. It feels very liberating, very free. 

An urge to pee finally got me up and I threw on some clothes and ventured out. The rain seemed to have abated so I decided I'd wander up to the Mirador above the town and enjoy some solitude. Unfortunately, by the time I wandered downstairs (slow with my ankle) the rain had started up again. I enjoyed a magnificent rainbow over urban streets and toddled away and down and up towards the Plaza. 
Passing an almost hidden bakery I stopped in to pick up a coffee.




​No matter where I go here the Plaza is the centre of all things. If anyone is out and about they are either at the Plaza or on their way to or from it. People going to work or school come here for a lift or a Jeep. The only open stores will be on the Plaza or nearby. For someone as directionally challenged as me Plazas make life simple. In México, by contrast, all the early morning life was on the first junction outside the centre.

Seeing me wandering coffee cup in hand I was approached by a Spanish speaking tourist enquiring where he too could get a cup of coffee. Imagine! Me, of all people, giving directions!

*Mountains are never too dar away which means that mornings can be mysterious and magical*



​I'm a terrible correspondent. What once were so exciting, so strange, so unusual are now so common I've omitted to mention them - Volcanoes! 
Way back in Honda I was under the shadow of a giant Volcano and there's another one down the road from here. There's also a canyon that's quite famous for hiking containing Colombia's National Tree - the Wax Palm. It's quite a popular hiking area and judging by all the weather, landslide and flash flood alerts on Google (I've never seen them before so they're either new or the world is going mad!) it's a pretty muddy hike at the moment.
Yesterday, sitting enjoying my coffee I spied a young couple with mud up to their thighs on a quest to buy some new clothes! 

All that is by way of introduction to the greatest number of tourists I've seen in a while groggily dragging themselves to the Plaza from various hostels in a wide range of prepared states.
Wellies (Wellington boots, Rubber boots) are popular amongst the better prepared. One dainty thing had white trainers and anklesocks. Some were decked out with rucksacks front and back, with walking poles to keep them upright, others just a little daypack. Some had hiking boots well used and worn comfortably, others were pristine and worn in such a way as to suggest there was a lot of breaking in to do! The females preferred leggings while a few of the guys had opted for shorts. I don't know what it is about shorts and the male figure but they did little to enhance the pale or spindly (and usually both!) legs they partially covered.
One or two were clearly solo, there were some couples, or at least people buddying up and there was one long line of a group trotting behind a leader like school children. 
There were a lot of Spanish speaking backpackers but I heard English and quite a bit of German and even French.

There's a little ticket office for the Jeeps and tourists outnumbered the locals by about 5 to 1. Tickets bought, queues formed at the back of the relevant jeep and people struggled in cramming themselves and their packs inside until full and then it's standing room only at the back.

*Rush hour!*



​The running board on the back is used nervously. Lots of anxious faces and deathgrips as they try to get comfortable with this method of transport. One guy pointedly refused to stand instead sitting half in half out. That was ok until the Jeep turned on the Plaza and a load of rainwater trapped in the rolled up canvas back "window" poured down on his head. I had a bird's eye view as his whole body spasmed with the shock but he tried to hide it. Standing, the water would have landed on his feet. 

It seemed as if all the hikers were whisked away in the first wave of departures and the Plaza returned to a more sedate pace. 

Dogs wander freely and are friendly and curious. Even the "guard dogs" in the parking lots are quiet and prone to investigating curiously the gringo wandering around. They've clocked off after their night's work and just want a bit of social contact.

A coffee stall is doing a brisk business with locals picking up a coffee on their way to somewhere else or just hanging around to chat, sipping from plastic cups. Very sociable.

The views are special. On one side of the town I had a beautiful, bright rainbow, very vivid and very alive. The opposite side is a melange of green, rolling hills with darker siblings rising behind them, clouds hanging between them and mist floating all around. When everything is just right the sun blasts down on a distant mountainside creating a little piece of gleaming paradise amongst the damp and the gloom. 
Try to photograph it and the perfectionist will be disappointed. Buildings and especially cables and wires will get in the way. Put the camera away and just soak it all up. Or get a drone - and go to hell!

Passing the time writing this up more hikers have started to roll into the Plaza. 
I'm going to join the hikers up in the Cocora valley later. I'll be making my own way on the bike and have no intention of going for a hike! 




​Chatting to Maria, the German girl, the other day she commented that travelling by bike must be very slow. It is, was my reply, (especially so with me!) but I told her that I get to stop wherever I want and follow, within reason, my own schedule. A good German, she thought about that and decided that yes, that was definitely an advantage. She hadn't a hope of convincing a bus driver to stop randomly on the side of the road.

The Adventure

Well, I didn't make it anywhere near the Corcora valley today! Instead, I took a figary and headed off up towards the volcano
There was a road that Osmand showed that Google didn't that intrigued me and on asking my hostess she went off and dug out a map to show me that it's a popular hiking route and would be doable on a bike - a bit rough though! Whether I made it to the top (over 3200 meters) didn't really matter - it was going to be a fun journey

*Hmmmm...... This could be fun!*



​I deliberated over another coffee and decided to go for it. Corcora will be there tomorrow and it's not that far. I can leave my gear, bike up have a look, return, pick up my gear and be in Armenia by lunchtime
Oh! I decided to stay an extra day!

*Mudslide! *



​I threw on some clothes, emptied my barbag then repacked it with essentials and dropped down to the Plaza for a couple of empanad.

*Waterfall*



​The road wasted no time losing its surface and rising out of the town. This is going to be fun! A sign announced "The Camino Real". Real in Spanish can be "Royal" or "Real". This was a real road

I came upon an older lady on an MTB heading down who told me the road was blocked with no way past. She didn't tell me how far up the blockage was (two other MTBers who passed me a little earlier said nothing) and I decided to keep on going. She was a little old lady I told myself, I'm a tough macho man
That was a mistake! But only because "Macho Man" (the Village People?) became my earworm song of the day! Cruel!

*Bouncy!*



​I did indeed hit a roadblock with a motorbike and a pickup with a rack of MTBs waiting. A landslide covered the road. The guy in the pickup told me I could get get over on the right hand side so I gave it a go, manhandling the very light Roccado over the mud and the rocks and bits of trees. A young fella climbed over at the same time and offered to help which I thought was very kind if unnecessary.




​Heading off up again I did wonder if this would be the only landslide. It didn't take long to confirm that it wasn't and that landslides weren't the biggest problem - in a couple of places some of the road had fallen away! Today, apparently, was the day of adventure!

*Landslide and disappearing road!



*
​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Nov 2021)

Day 791, Friday, November 12, 2021, Salento to Salento, 26 km Total KM 13821
Min meters 2036, Max Meters 2962
Total Climb 890 Total Descent 918
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 18

Changing Plans; Ah, to be a relaxed bike tourist!

Part Two

As I headed upwards the cloudy sky seemed to darken and mist started hiding the views until at one bend instead of a wide valley view I had pure white mist.
I did think about turning around at that point. There were dangers on the road, the road itself being the main one and with the roadblock behind me there was no traffic in the event I got into trouble. Turning back would be the sensible thing to do, I could head to Corcora on a proper road. Besides, I'd have to turn back at some stage. Why not now?
But I couldn't. There was something that drew me over the landslide and there was something drawing me up to the next bend. And the next. I kept on going.




​I was a bit worried about my ankle. The rough road was brutal for it if I stopped and walked to take a photo. Stepping on a stone or rock was like a stiletto going up through my heel and slicing through my ankle. Going down wasn't going to be easy and if I had to walk I'd be fecked! I still didn't turn around though.

I was rewarded for my curiousity when the mist started to burn off, the clouds lifted and the sun shone. I still had lots of very cool shade on the road but the spots of sun were glorious!

*There's always an interesting tree!



*​Remembering the snake warning from yesterday kept me in my toes if I stopped for a photo.
And so I worked my way ever upwards bouncing on rock, slipping through sand, splashing through water and just generally enjoying myself. I was gaining height at a steady pace but hardly felt it. I think when my focus is on staying upright I don't pay too much attention to how I'm doing it.

*The bends just kept calling out to me - and they didn't disappoint!*



​That's all the detail. But what was it really like? How did it feel?
It was fabulous!
A wild and crazy road right from the start, low clouds below me when I could see them, a tight, enclosed road when I couldn't. The silver trees were scattered randomly around the hills, proud and defiant, while beside me I had all kinds of vegetation to amuse and amaze me. The big leaves that I thought were litter yesterday were strong and alive here. The giant ferns were along the road too. Roadside cliffs were sopping wet and full of all kinds of mossy greenery, some very spooky and atmospheric.
Butterflies were everywhere! One even hitched a ride on my shoulder for a while! Black butterflies were the most common, often huddled in groups on the ground until I got too close then they scattered to the wind flittering and fluttering all around me.
Birds, and I'm pretty sure other animals, beeped, twittered, croaked and crowed around me. At one stage I was sure I'd damaged a spoke as I started to hear a rhythmic "ping" type sound. Concerned, I pulled up but the sound continued. I've no idea what the animal was but I bet they were highly amused!

*Giant ferns!*



​As I rose higher the trees changed and I entered Pine country with the stillness that it brings. (I stop hearing birds when there's only pine trees). Alone, totally alone, in the pine forest, just the sound of me bouncing along was delicious. Had I packed my Kindle I'd have sat and read a few tales from the Brothers Grimm. The atmosphere was palpable.

There was mist, then sun then the mist returned only to be vanquished one more time by the sun. It's so easy to understand why the Sun was revered as a God in country like this - everything changes under its power. Later, in the rain, the sun would sometimes blast through the cascading water creating magic and light and mystery and literally shrivel up the miserable cloud hanging over me.
As Talking Heads might say I was on the road to nowhere and there was nowhere else I'd rather have been.

*What a CrazyBeautiful sky!*



​There's a curious kind of liberty in bouncing along such a road with no destination in mind, knowing that at some stage I'll turn around. I'm a lazy bike tourist so I was genuinely interested at the mental equation going on in my head between the (lazy) urge to return and the curious urge to see around the next bend.

I was not making any kind of swift progress. The road was terrible and I maintained my tendency to stop and savour. At about 13:30 I decided to really go for it and see what progress I could make in half an hour.
I worked hard, I did, I really did but I didn't enjoy the process. This was technical riding involving a lot of looking right in front of my wheel - not around me. At about 14:00 I stopped and had a look at where I was. About another 300 meters to climb to the top over about 6km. That was at least another hour non-stop. I didn't even know what I'd see at the top! Going down was probably going to take as long as going up and this was one road I did not want to be on after dark. This road deserved a bit of respect and while I've been feckless on other roads a similar approach didn't sit well with me here.

I sat down, ate an orange in the still pine forest, smoked a ciggie then turned around and started the long, slow descent.

*Everywhere was the sound of rushing water - sometimes I even got to see it!



*​The first thing I noticed was the cold. Not working anywhere near as hard I could really feel the temperature, about 15C. Then I entered mist and then the rain started! Out with my raincoat and a bit of shelter under a tree. Eventually the drips worked their way through the foliage so I set off again.
I met a pickup on the way up! Then another! It looked like the road was open again! A few motorbikes seemed to confirm this.




​I'm not a great fan of riding the same road in different directions unless the road is worth it and this one certainly was! There were genuinely different views on offer not just from a different perspective but a changed sun position.

Bouncing downhill two dogs who didn't even raise themselves when I bounced up started barking and charging towards me. Uh oh!
A retriever cross and some kind of a shepherd cross, not small by any means. As he charged, the retriever pinned back his ears and his tail started to wag. What could I do but stop? I think the poor dogs were desperate for company. The shepherd cross was a bit shy at first, but still friendly while his retriever buddy was jumping up on me. Paws on shoulders jumping! Then the shepherd got in on the act, thankfully on the other side for a bit of balance. A lovely moment with two, big, exuberant, happy dogs.
I was getting destroyed from their big, muddy paws on me but not a single feck was given! Besides, I figured that when I rolled back into town I'd look like a real bike adventurer covered in mud.
When I finally went to move on they just trotted away as if I no longer existed!

*Mis dos amigos!*



​There had been another interesting dog earlier too. A Shepherd, young and healthy was lying under what looked like a wooden stand that had milk churns stacked along it. No sign of his boss anywhere, just the dog, alert, lying on the ground. He raised his head to watch me on my way up and again on my way down. Not a growl, bark or peep out of him. Curious, watchful but neither friendly nor threatening.

A JCB was busy clearing up a corner. the driver stopped to let me by, his helper pointing to the roadside cliff where small amounts of sand and soil were still falling. That was kind of scary. The JCB had clearly being working its way up the road clearing all the landslides big and small as it went and leaving layers of squishy, slippy mud on the "surface".

*A lone silver tree*




​I could see rain moving in on the town as I got closer and sure enough I started getting sokaed again. Cold and wet overrode hunger and I headed straight for my little hotel where I was presented with a coffee and homemade carrot cake!
A hot, hot shower and I was human again.


The family seemed to be hosting a bible or prayer meeting. Some elderly aunts were present and then the man of the house was reading from the bible. There seemed to be a bit of a lecture (from Dad) and then a family discussion. An interesting experience for the outsider as I went about my business. A number of novels for the use of guests seemed to be Christain in tone and I have never seen a Christian version of Uno until now!

I went out for a bite to eat, had a look around but became very, very tired. Home to bed with me!




​What a great feckin' day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Nov 2021)

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Salento via (Cocora) 22 km Total KM 13843
Min meters 1911, Max Meters 2444
Total Climb 660 Total Descent 690
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

*For those following on Strava (lots more pictures!) these are documented as two different rides. Or will be when I get some decent wifi and can upload them! 


The Morning Ride

Ah, I don't even know where to start with today.
It was a day when excitement and satisfaction piled on top of joy, when misery and a whiff of danger couldn't sustain themselves and a day of pure, sheer enjoyment, of adventure and exploration settled itself in my memory.

*Heading off to Cocora to look at some Palm Trees. I was happy just to be on a proper road!



*​For some reason, after all this time on the road today seemed one of the most foreign of days to me. In my world foreign isn't a negative word. I'm not sure why. Maybe it was the fabulous, beautiful and exotic trees, maybe it was the fact that my road was completely not what I was expecting. Maybe it was just my state of mind. Whatever the reason, it was.

This day is actually going to be split into two distinct posts and each one will have at least one additional post.
And I still won't be doing it justice!

*Ho hum scenery Yeah, I know how that reads!*



​I came to coffee country because I like coffee. My Colombian friend had told me to visit too. As you can see from my wanderings I'm hardly going in a straight line and I'm certainly not burning up the roads but that was my plan down here - to wander.
The fact of the matter is that I'm loving this part of my little adventure and a lot of it has little to do with coffee.
This morning's adventure certainly didn't.

My notes tell me that I can see the National Tree of Colombia in Cocora. All I know is that they're Palm trees and very tall. If I've seen one I can't recall the detail and since my notes are several years old and only text they don't help much.
I haven't looked online for pictures or more up to date information - I want to keep my head in exploring mode.

*There was some adventure! On this bend some of the road had disappeared down the hill*



​So, this morning, I got up, had coffee and set off on an unladen Roccado to climb over 500 meters to see me some Wax Palms. When I got back I'd load up and head off to Armenia on a paved backroad. Not too far and pretty much all downhill. An easy day.

*Today's río was wild, noisy and in a big rush*



​I had an actual road to get to Cocora which was a boon. I could really enjoy the weightlessness. A sharp descent and then I was in for a long climb.
Even if it was a "proper" road there was evidence of recent landslides and one place where some of the road had washed away.
Traffic was light with lots of Jeeps bringing people up to Cocora, site of a National Park.

*It was very pleasant cycling even if uphill



*​It was pleasant cycling and the scenery was pretty much as I've come to expect. Ha! How cocky am I?

*Big rocks scattered around the landscape point to some pretty violent times at one stage, or, as I prefer to think of it, some baby giant didn't clean up all his toys*



​I wasn't feeling any particular pressure. My bags were all packed up and out of the room. My hosts were kindness and hospitality personified. Return when I liked to load up. And only 20 odd km downhill to Armenia. No pressure - a great way to travel.

*I really liked this one - consumed by nature *



​A few roadies were out, silent as ever, although I'm sure my unladen bike with a flag was bemusing for them.

*The valley was planted with fruit and coffee. I was able to determine that some of the trees were avacado. *






*Again, no tractors around here. All work is done by hand. Motorbikes carry man and gear. It's not an easy life



*​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Nov 2021)

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Salento via (Cocora) 22 km Total KM 13843
Min meters 1911, Max Meters 2444
Total Climb 660 Total Descent 690
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

*For those following on Strava (lots more pictures!) these are documented as two different rides. Or will be when I get some decent wifi and can upload them!


The Morning Ride Part 2

Then I saw them! At first, my eyes were drawn to an unusual, pine shaped tree but then my eyes picked out anti aircraft explosions in the air. Or at least that was my first thought. Stopping to look properly I saw that the explosions, small as they were, ocurred on top of a very thin, tall trunk. Wax Palms! 


*In my world there is something wonderful about Palm Trees. "Nature's Fireworks" I've called them before. I don't have the words to describe how happy seeing these trees made me. In fact, it took me a while to notice them as I was busy looking at the unusual pine shaped tree along the road!*



​I love my Palm Trees and while there are clear similarities, these are also very, very original. And beautifully fragile and delicate. 
I was beyond enthralled, beyond excited! Like my "coffee valley" the other day I was a little bit overwhelmed. Here I was in the middle of nowhere, pulled up on the side of the road gawking at these wonderful plants having got here on my bike! 
Talk about wanting something and then giving it to yourself! On the other side of the globe! In a country where they tell you to be careful - and I just feel so damn comfy!

*A little later..... Look for the Butterfly wings!*



​I was happy now so I could have turned back but I continued on. 

*It was still an interesting road*



​Truth be told, there's not many of them and I'm not sure that's a bad thing. There's something about them that strikes me that they're at their best alone. To me, their seeming fragility just proves their strength. A few scattered around just seems to emphasise the individual beauty. A forest of them? I'm not sure I'd be so impressed.

*Taken in front of the park. Note the Jeeps for photos*



​There's a small industry around the entrance to the National Park. Car parks, first of all for all the people that drive up. Restaurants to feed all the people. Several stables to bring people on horse rides and lots of guides to bring people through the park or on one of the hikes. And armed soldiers. 

*The sense of satisfaction was immense!*



​I loved the area inside the Park, set up as it was for photographic opportunities. Kids of all ages could stand under a "parachute" and be photographed floating through the valley. Simple, colourful wings to make any boy or girl (of any age) a butterfly. Patronising Alert! I love the simplicity of it.
Of course there are laden jeeps too that whole groups can climb onto and be photographed. 
Everywhere I looked I saw smiling faces.
I grabbed a coffee and a quick bite to eat then set off back to Salento.

*What a great road for flying down!*



​With a phone signal I checked the rugby score - Ireland had just reclaimed the lead from New Zealand and seemed to be playing very well. I was delighted! I could have had a lazy morning watching the game but I chose this instead - maybe I'm becoming something of a cyclist!

*Narrow, but fun!*



​Whoah! The road was suddenly narrow! The bike felt as light as the proverbial feather and I got a real thrill from pushing the speed then slowing down for the bends. Great fun! I gave up stopping for photos and just beamed my way down. 

*A morning I will never forget*



​I didn't even mind the last steep climb back up to the town, got back to my little hotel, picked up my bags and got ready fot the day's "proper" travel. 

*What a fabulous morning!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Nov 2021)

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Calarcá 25 km Total KM 13868
Min meters 1409, Max Meters 2003
Total Climb 297 Total Descent 756
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 22

The Afternoon Ride;

Sometimes it helps to be unprepared! 

At the first corner on my reloaded bike my steering jammed and I couldn't make the turn. Uh oh! 
Dumbass! I've had two days of weightlessness! I needed adjusting - not the bike!

My hostess was wonderful making sure to enthusiastically talk up whatever I was considering to do and offering suggestions on places to stop, to eat or somewhere else I could go if I got to X. Normally I recoil from someone being too pushy but not this time. There was a genuineness to her that killed any cynicism stone dead. 
My road was paved she had told me.
Ha! 

*My road wasn't paved in the conventional sense. Instead it was paved with wildness, with beauty, with adventure, with risk and danger and a whole lot of fun!



*​Again, I wasn't out of the town when the surface disappeared. I was so distracted that I didn't notice Mani leaping out of his pocket on my handlebar bag until a little fella took off after me calling out. He returned my amigo with a smile and promptly turned around my words of gratitude enough for him.

With Mani back in his pocket I had the chance to look at the road. 20km of this was going to be interesting. What I'm starting to call my "Loon face" appeared and it didn't disappear until the edge of Armenia several hours later.

*Sometimes a gps is a great tool!



*​Bouncing past two backpackers walking sulkily but together, out for a stroll or to cool off the guy called out in English asking where I was going. "Argentina", was my answer. "How long will it take?", he fired back.
"I'm on the road more than two years", I called back, "I'm not taking any bets on how long more!".
Then I was bouncing down a steep hill leaving the fighting couple behind to their domestic issues. An advantage of travelling solo - I rarely fight with myself!

*After the Wax Palms this morning I thought I'd hit maximum thrill for a while. Then the Touring Gods threw this at me! 



*​A companion might be well peed off with me at this stage! For me, discovering that a paved road is actually not much more than rock, sand, mud and stones is just an unexpected adventure. I don't think all the world thinks like that! Actually, come to think of it, a few years ago I'm not sure I'd have thought like that. Big adventures start with little ones. And anything can be a little adventure!

*Slippy, slidey, jungley, and downhill! A magical road that could have taken years off my life instead wiped away decades and left a little boy to slip and slide. *



​I've tried several times to write down just how this road made me feel and nothing comes even close. 
Way, way back on another continent I spied a boat called "Intrepido". The Intrepid. It's stuck in my head as a great name for an adventure bike. That word comes to mind. 

This road was for the intrepid!

*Oh, sometimes there was a bit of a view too!*



​The road was narrow, often on the verge of being overwhelmed with vegetation, it was steep, loose, mucky, sandy, slippy and dangerous. And beautiful, wild, very, very foreign. I nearly flattened my loon face into the ground on one muddy patch - but I didn't. The atmosphere was like the moisture in the day - covering everything, dripping down the sides, gathering in pools under me, soaking me if I brushed against something. 
It was feckin' brilliant! 

*I felt sorry for the folks on the quadbikes. Too separate from everything. I was jealous of them when I had to climb a horrible hill though!



*​I had to resist the urge to put my right foot down at times for some extra support - my poor ankle screamed in protest. But other than that? Pure adventure! 

*Intrepid! *






*Actual paving!! Signifying a steep descent and badly broken it only added to the adventure!*







*The amount and variety of vegetation was mind boggling. And the fact that it was so close, often touching me just added to the whole experience.






A river valley, far, far below*






To be continued........​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Nov 2021)

Day 792, Saturday, November 13, 2021, Salento to Calarcá 25 km Total KM 13868
Min meters 1409, Max Meters 2003
Total Climb 297 Total Descent 756
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 22

The Afternoon Ride; Part 2

Sometimes it helps to be unprepared!

I'd thought I'd knock the distance out in an hour, maybe two with my propensity to stop. That was being rapidly revised upwards to about four hours if the road continued as it was. Therefore it made no sense to stop beside a café opposite a great view so I did! A lady selling fruit wanted to give me the orange I asked for free but I couldn't be having that. She cut it into quarters for me so I sucked and ate admiring a spectacular view into a river valley far, far below. 
I chatted to her, a Colombian couple admiring the view and watched an evil cat dominate a huge dog. 

*Coffee! *



​Some young backpackers emerged from the café and I was amused as they all gathered around Roccado and one of the French guys started giving explanations of panniers, gears and God knows what. I wandered over behind him, bemused, until one of his companions interrupted his lecture, pointed to me and said "we could just ask him". It's not often the French look sheepish - another bonus to my day!

*Magical, mysterious meandering



*​I shouldn't have but decided to ham things up a little in response to their questions. I started in NL. I was in my third year travelling. I was heading for Argentina. I didn't know where I was sleeping tonight. I didn't know where I was going tomorrow. All true, but there are different ways of delivering the information and I made myself sound ..... What's the word? Ah yes! Intrepid!

*Dark and very, very cool*



​When I asked them where they were off to there was an embarrassed silence. Then one of the girls smiled at me and said "We've just had coffee and now we're going for lunch". We all laughed. 

*A river and a waterfall!! Am I not being spoiled enough? The Touring Gods evidently agreed - the rain was minutes away!*



​I set off again, now on a bit of a surface. Like further north, a type of paving had been laid for the really steep parts. Here, it was two strips of corrugated concrete with rocks embedded in concrete down the middle. The problem was with the corrugation - it was often broken, leaving wide and deep gaps therefore very tough going down. When it stopped there was often a significant drop back to the earth.

*No editing, just natural colours*



​Eventually I came to a bridge over a wild river and pulled in to don my full raingear. Drops had being falling and the sky ahead was not friendly. A group on quad bikes who had passed me already a few times were racing over and back across the bridge and up the hill on the other side. Not particularly pleasant for me.

The climb, though, was tough. Very steep. On that corrugated concrete strip that gave little room for error. I was glad to finally make it to the top but that was the signal for rain to fall. As I went along with no place for shelter it just got heavier.

*Fan-bloody-tastic!



*​Having wrapped up in advance I wasn't cold which is, for me, the main thing. The road became even more challenging with little rivers down each side, potholes filling and mud becoming very thin. Water was pouring down from the sky, from the trees above me and the cliffs along the road. 

Adventurous fun off the scale!

*Water everywhere!*



​Then I hit the inevitable - a mudslide! A JCB was working away and I squeezed past but only to hit a calf deep sea of mud and a mound of clay. I wasn't too bothered having climbed over a bigger one yesterday. Then I remembered - I was unladen yesterday! The driver's assistant was straight over to help me. Not an offer of help an "I'm going to help you". We pushed and pulled and dragged Roccado through the mud and he wouldn't take a tip. He just wanted to ask about my trip, his eyes shining brighter and brighter as I repaid my debt to him with Spanish words. Standing in the middle of the road in the pouring rain, plastered in mud I was feeling pretty good! 

*Looking back at the mudslide, now considerably smaller due to all the mud stuck to me and Roccado!*



​He assured me the road was clear the rest of the way and he wasn't wrong. In fact, the last 5 or 6km were on a proper road that morphed into a big one with a shoulder. It's probably the first time in my cycling life that I didn't want the shoulder! I wanted my old road back. My adventure road!

Armenia's a big town and heavy traffic, steep hills and the loss of my shoulder within the city limits soon had me forgetting about what was behind me in favour of what was in front. First stop the Plaza, a coffee and then find a place to stay, preferably one with a hose outside. Or, at least, that was the plan.

No! Just no! I was not staying in Armenia. I wasn't even staying long enough for a cup of coffee. Klaxons were going off in my head even before I got to the Plaza. Arriving at the Plaza - the closed off Plaza - they went into overdrive. Sometimes cold, wet and tired I can be grumpy and quick to judge but I was none of those things - I was in great form. In other words it wasn't me - it was the town. Time to get the hell out! I could point to a large number of people scrabbling through bins, or the cheap hotels and the congregations of scary looking hookers outside, or the sinister stares I received as I negotiated the traffic clogged streets as evidence but something intangible was wailing in my head and my entire body was tense. A closed off Plaza in a country where Plazas are the heart of a town? Something's not right here.

*There was even a tunnel! Sure, it was full of water but it was great fun!*​





There's a town close by, Carcará, and that's where I headed in crazy, dense traffic, a yellow cab trying to take me out on a roundabout and a motorcyclist clipping me on the elbow. It was a relief to cross a busy bridge (with a beautiful, wild river valley below) and leave the place behind. Except I now had a brutal climb! 

*I'm thinking that this isn't prime riverside frontage *



​I arrived at the Plaza in spitting rain and did a lap. Then had a coffee. And relaxed. Better than Armenia anyway! 

Booking only had places that wanted my kidney for a night's stay so I set off looking for an old place listed on iOverlander. I got confused and found another, lucked out on the price and got checked in apologising profusely for the mud trail I was leaving everywhere. The male receptionist, very formal initially, softened remarkably and was very pleasant.

A hot, hot and long shower revived me and gave me a place to wash the mud off me. Roccado's in the parking garage below. He'll need some attention too!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2021)

Day 793, Sunday, November 14, 2021, Calarcá

I got up late. I was tired. And grumpy.
I had a monster day ahead of me. At least 1700 meters on another of Colombia's famous climbs! Ha! I know about this one!

Alto de Linea. One of the most dangerous roads in all of Colombia! A tunnel has been built to take the pressure off but it's only open since 2020.

*My arrival in the damp Plaza lifted the spirits. A far more pleasant atmosphere than Armenia*



​Osmand has had a problem plotting a route. A car route takes me through the tunnel which I don't want to do. I believe there is an "old road" alternative. A bike route takes me back to Salento and across the Volcano I didn't reach the other day. Unladen! I'll just have to wait until I get up there and see which way to go.

*There can be some pretty ugly churches in these parts!*



​I packed up and got ready to leave. It was already past 10am and I did a few calculations. No. I wasn't going to make it today.
I asked about an extra night and stayed. It'll still be there tomorrow.

*Strangely, most of the interesting buildings were a bit away from the Plaza*



​I went up to the Plaza had a couple of cups of coffee in my favourite building. It has quite the history, at one time being a theatre and cinema. It showed one of the first horror movies in Colombia, something that caused quite the stir! 
For a Sunday coffee it was a lovely place. 

*My favourite building on the Plaza. Now a café it has had an interesting history. Something about it reminded me of Germany*



​The Plaza was busy at 11 am and all through the day. They have battery powered cars here for the kids - It made me sad!
On one corner of the Plaza a very mixed group were going through some dance routines, some better than others, all equal in the enjoyment judging by the smiles.
Another corner seemed to have all the older folks checking to see who's alive and who was missing. 
All around families and couples walked and talked, sat and played. The Plaza, physically may not have been up to much but the atmosphere was bubbling.

*A 1955 Morris Minor in bright red! A fabulous looking machine - with the keys left in the ignition!*



​I then decided to visit the Botanical Gardens. That involved a 3km walk through town and out the far side.
It was only after I'd bought my ticket that I was told it was a guided tour. Bah!! 

It's not that I'm anti-social (or maybe I am!) but I'm not a fan of group tours, especially solo. They're one of the few times I feel like an outsider.
For a start I like what I like and often it's not what the guide is interested in showing. 
Then there's the language to complicate things.
And there's all the things just over there that I want to investigate (and normally can) but on a tour I can't! 

*Wandering through the gardens. There was surprisingly little that was unfamiliar to me and there were few explanations about fauna and flora, instead concentrating on the history of the gardens themselves*



​I was amused at the oohing and ahhing from the group at different sections but honestly? My road yesterday kicked the pants off the gardens!

The highlight was definitely the butterfly section, accessed through heavy rubber strips (to keep the butterflies in).
I got to see the metallic blue butterfly that I've been seeing on and off for months. One even landed on me! In fact, lots landed on me! 
It sounds cool. But when you look at a butterfly's face up close you're reminded that under all the colour and beauty they're just a bug. And when they stick the same "arm" they use to eat pineapple into your arm and won't fly away no matter how much you shake your arm it can get a little freaky!
Intrepid bike traveller - freaked out by butterflies!

*My blue butterfly is a really interesting one! A completely different "outside" pattern and colour to the "inside".*



​I wandered back to the centre, had a coffee then a bite to eat and back to the hotel. I popped out to pick up supplies for tomorrow. I'd need nourishment.

*At first it's fun. Then the feeder comes out and my imagination moves into overdrive!😀*



​The wifi in the hotel was very, very poor - at least for uploading. I tried to make an update here but gave up. Instead I decided to do a bit of research.

*These little guys have been captivating me for several countries! Professional photographers were in the butterfly area snapping away at people as the butterflies descended upon them. Not the solo traveller though!*



​In my head this part of the trip is organised loosely like this
1. Arrive in Cartagena
2. Head south to coffee country
3. Explore coffee country
4. Head south to the Trampoline of Death
5. Ecuador
Since Ibagué is the last of the coffee country, I'd better check out what the situation is with Ecuador and what I need to do.
As it turns out, it's pretty straightforward - if I want to go to Ecuador I have to fly! There are no land crossings permitted. 
While it's theoretically possible to take some backroads across the border I won't be doing that. Illegal, for a start and Lord knows what issues I'll have when I try to leave!

*Quite a few gables and corners were painted up in this style. It's a town with a bit of a hard edge, a bit function over style. These helped soften it.*



​I don't really know how to process this. Parts of Ecuador are under a State of Emergency - criminal related not Covid. Past Ecuador I'll run into weather issues in Peru and Bolivia. Serious weather issues. The closed border is a definite barrier, but it's only the first of several.

Tomorrow I'm going to make a monster climb that will allow me to turn south and head for Ecuador. But Ecuador don't want me! 

Tired and grumpy I went to bed. 
I watched the highlights (again!) of Ireland v New Zealand and that did help!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (18 Nov 2021)

Day 794, Monday, November 15, 2021, Calarcá to El Espinal 130 km Total KM 13973*
Min meters 423, Max Meters 2614
Total Climb 1664 Total Descent 2819
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 25

Ha! Dumbass!

I was up about 4 am determined to get an early start on the day ahead. I had breakfast and coffee in my room and then got my gear downstairs. I picked Roccado up from the parking garage below and set about loading up outside on the street. The night porter was standing beside me watching the whole time and chatting away.

*I'm the world's worst for dragging myself out of the scratcher...... But it is nearly always worth it!*



​It was just after 6am when I crossed the Plaza and headed out of town. The climbing started at the town boundary. And it was steep! Slow going.
I was feeling good and confident. I knew I just had to grind it out.

*Tough climbs are always made better by the views....*



​Traffic was quite light and there were a few other cyclists out too. Not talkative ones though.

*I ain't got nothing to be complaining about!*



​Early on an SUV passed me with the most dense and vile smoke pouring out of its exhaust. I pulled up and waited for the stinky air to clear and wondered about the driver and what they were thinking. There's a huge climb, lots of tunnels and their machine is very, very unhealthy! A couple of kms later I didn't have to wonder when I came across the SUV parked up on the roadside its bonnet open.

*Clouds caught on the mountains!*



​I passed a woman and young man sitting on the wall on a sharp corner. I had no idea what they were doing there. A little later I had my answer when an articulated truck passed me with both of them hanging off the back!

*Looking back......*



​Bends can be so sharp and steep that trucks veer across the road to get through. "Volunteers" stand in the middle of the road directing, or at least, warning other traffic. For a tip, of course!

*Truck on the wrong side of the road - the only way they can take the bend and a "volunteer" warning oncoming traffic. Apparently, religious statues don't help!*



​I was passed by a motorbike with a doggy passenger sitting on the fuel tank! It was too fast to see if there was a harness. A dog on a motorbike is not that unusual but normally is between rider and passenger. This guy was front and center!

It was bloody hard work. A steep ascent with no let up at all. Bends could be really steep and there were lots of them. But the views were fantastic! There were lots of walls to lean the bike, rest and enjoy the views.

*It's a pretty impressive engineering feat. I'm not sure if these are "new" sections or the road (opened 2020) is already under repair. iOverlander is full of stories of long delays on this road for years.*



​I had decided to adopt my "gain 100 meters take a break" process and I needed it for the first 300 meters. After that the gradient eased slightly and I stopped paying attention to the meters. When I did look again I'd broken 500 meters. This was more like it! 700 rolled by easily enough. This was turning out to be a good day!

*Getting higher and the mist is swirling in - below me!*



​I pulled in at the little industry around a Police Checkpoint. The traffic has to slow down so there are street sellers and a couple of food places. This time the Police were only interested in commercial traffic. Trucks were pulled over and papers checked. A quick glance was enough for approval but if something wasn't right the truck was pulled over.

*The longest tunnel in Latin America!! I'm really putting together quite the list of accomplishments!*



​Up and up I went! Arriving at the toll plaza I pulled over for a coffee and empanada before continuing the climb.

That's when one of the guys working on the road gave me the bad news. They won't let me through.
I toddled over to a group of ladies actually working on the tolls and they confirmed. It was impossible!

Well, there's my casual attitude to planning coming back to bite me on the ass!

I got another coffee and had a think about what this means.

But first I had a little giggle at myself! All those meters climbed and for absolutely nothing! 

*Toll Plaza and the end of the road...... Osmand reckons I'd climbed over 900 meters to get here.....*






To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Nov 2021)

Day 794, Monday, November 15, 2021, Calarcá to El Espinal 130 km Total KM 13973*
Min meters 423, Max Meters 2614
Total Climb 1664 Total Descent 2819
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 25

Ha! Dumbass! Part Two

Ibagué means nothing to me other than as the begining of the penultimate stage in Colombia. In fact, the last few days (and just a minute ago) I've been told that Ibagué is the "wrong way" to go south to Ecuador. People clearly don't get my navigation issues! 

I could go south past Calí from Armenia but I have recollections that that route is not the safest. I'd still need to cross this mountain range if I want to do the Trampoline of Death the last thing on my very loose wishlist.

Of course, Murphy's Law kicked in and my phone had no credit!

iOverlander confirmed that there were a few security alerts further south. A few years old, but significant. (iOverlander works offline for most functionality).
Osmand showed a route across the mountains further south but it was a minor road. I've seen minor roads in Colombia. Hmmmmm.

The only other way to cross these mountains is the Alto de Letras - in reverse - from Manizales!
Because of the roundabout way I had come from Manizales I could actually go back with minimal travelling on the same roads as earlier. Besides, I flew down one side of the Alto de Letras, going back up slowly could be interesting. Back to Honda then a straight run to Ibagué and I'm back on track. More time in the coffee country!

The third option was to hitch a lift. I've no philosophical objection to that but I do have a timidity problem. I hate to ask for help.

Two coffees later I had a plan. I'd head back towards Manizales, earn epic bike tourer status by completing the longest bike climb in the world - in both directions! - and circle back to Ibagué.

I climbed on and set off.
Rolling back down the hill I had a chat with myself so when I came to the police checkpoint I pulled up and spoke to a Policeman. Of course I couldn't cycle through the tunnel! Yes, I could get a lift. Maybe a bus, maybe someone else. I'd have to pay (of course!). Just leave it to him.
I breathed a sigh of relief.
He asked the first bus. No. He asked the next truck. Yes!
A couple of young fellas, a part of his team, hopped in the back and I lifted the bags and then the bike up to them.
I tried to tip the friendly Policeman - no way! I tried to tip his young lads - no way! I went to get into the cab but there was already someone in it - that's when I realised I was in the back too!

*Not quite the view I'm used to in the mountains!*



​With lots of waves, smiles and wishes for a safe journey I was on my way!
Fifteen minutes after asking for a bit of help I was on my way. I need to remember that.
There was some steel scaffolding in the back so there was lots of space. I lay down and got comfy. It was a flatbed truck with a canvas roof, open front and back. The floor was metal but I didn't care! I was on my way to Ibagué!

Epic Bike Tourer status in tatters! 

At the toll some soldiers spoke to the driver and a woman and young man climbed aboard too. Venezuelans. We managed a snatch of conversation during a traffic jam but the rest of the trip was too noisy to talk. I gave them some of my bags for sitting on.

The journey was very different to what I had planned! Easier and faster for a start, although there were several sections of roadworks that were slow and bumpy. The views were interesting, lying as I was, on my back. Not terribly comfo6 though!

About 4km from the centre of Ibagué the truck came to a halt. This time the driver opened the back gate so I could manage easier. For payment he wouldn't name a price so I gave him what the trip was worth to me and he seemed very, very happy.

Reloading the bike I was joined in a pleasant conversation by a passerby.
I took out Osmand and had a look. I hadn't expected to be in Ibagué until tomorrow. There was a light rain starting to fall, the city looked big and stressful. I got on the main road and sailed past the exit for Ibagué. My time in coffee country was over!

I just wanted to ride.

*A decent road, a very comfortable shoulder, a big city, rain getting ready to fall..... I just kept on going *



​I'd laughed back at the toll booth - what else could I do? But sitting down at a little roadside stand trying to put together a route from scratch wasn't exactly ideal. Exciting? Yes! Ideal no. It was draining.
Then there's the whole Ecuador thing. That's a real roadblock that I don't have to face right at this moment. It's bothering me but I'm parking it for now.
This road is good and big and downhill. I can blow off some steam. There's a few small towns. I'll see what strikes my fancy.

*If ever there was a road for pounding out some frustrations........*



​I got bored of the big, broad, smooth highway and took a minor road through a few villages. Quiet places, barely surviving by the looks of things. I think this used to be the main road but then they built new ones (in each direction) on huge, tall concrete stilts. The villages now are a base for these stilts and the new road far, far above.

*Interesting scenery



*​Then I diverted off altogether to take the road to El Espinal.
Two lanes, tricky shoulder but the most wonderful tree canopy for miles and miles.

*Hills instead of mountains......*



​El Espinal has a "Mythology Park" with interesting statues and trees. Then off to the Plaza for a well attended funeral and a friendly coffee.

*It was hot!*



​I had lots of conversations while I sipped my coffee.
Highlight was Geronimo, a young fella accompanied by his mother. Could he have a photo with the bike? Of course! I introduced myself and told him where I was from. His little eyes opened wide in wonder. Then his words started tumbling out! I needed his mother to translate some of his questions but he seemed to understand me ok. The poor woman kept apologising and I kept telling her it was fine! One of his questions; What's Geronimo in English?

*There's some pretty impressive roadbuilding in these parts*



​Another man, dressed up to show his respects at the funeral, I presumed, had a 50 year old bike from India! In perfect, gleaming condition. He was a bit shy at first but his pride in his bike helped overcome it.

*Today's río*



​Finding a hotel was a bit of a chore but I got one, had a cold shower and went awandering.

*The last leg to El Espinal. Very pretty!



*​I'm in low country again and the heat is oppressive again! There's a desert down the road! For a day's travelling things sure have changed!






Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


Edit to add:
*I covered about 60km in a truck, climbing about 700 meters


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Nov 2021)

Day 794, Monday, November 15, 2021, El Espinal

*The Mythology Park along the main road into El Espinal. A lovely park with lots of shade, people and stalls selling fruit juice (no coffee!)*







*Unfortunately, the boards explaining the mythology behind the statues had been vandalised and broken. Other than graffiti, that's the first vandalism in a public space that I recall seeing in my travels since México!*








*Of course, the Mythology is all local.*







*As (nearly) always there is a wonderful tree*







*It's a pity I couldn't read about these stories*








*In the Main Plaza an action statue (of Símon Bolívar) which clearly doesn't frighten the birds,!*








*The Church. The large group of people outside had gathered for a funeral. Clearly a respected local character, they received a guard of honour from the Fire Brigade and a very large crowd. *







*Even after dark the Plaza is bubbling and alive*







*Another lovely tree in the Mythology Park *






*The road through the town - unusually quiet



*​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 795, Tuesday, November 16, 2021, El Espinal to Natagaima 66 km Total KM 14039
Min meters 336, Max Meters 375
Total Climb 182 Total Descent 147
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 36

Back to boring!

I fell asleep last night in my clothes on the bed! I woke up sometime around two, brushed my teeth (somewhere a sister of mine is proud as punch!) plugged in my phone and went back to bed. The day and the night time heat was exhausting! It was near 7am when I woke up again. 

I was hot, grumpy and not terribly motivated. I stumbled out for a coffee then slowly got organised. My route out of town had me pass the "Mythology Park" so I had to stop again! I love that place! Then I had a coffee and a couple of "croissants" in a bakery. I'd love to know what French people make of Colombian croissants!
I could not make myself rush! Sitting outside, the bike beside me and watching the world go by was pleasant enough! 

*This is what I was facing into. No wonder I was slow to get going!



*​I finally climbed aboard and headed off.
Not for the first time on this trip I found myself grateful for a headwind. I could feel the sun blasting me but the wind was preventing it from killing me. I knew I'd need to be careful with my head in this sun.

*And the view to the front. A decent road, a very decent shoulder and an extra "road" should I need it!*



​The road was a two laner with a pretty decent shoulder and flat as the proverbial pancake so at least I was making decent progress. I was passing through farmland with lots of maize growing and some cattle in boggier land. There was a surprising amount of water around. 
For a lot of the way there was a second road running parallel. It appears that they're planning to turn this into a dual carriageway but like a lot of road development in Colombia it seems to be taking a very long time! 

*This was an interesting section!*



​What can I say? It was pretty boring riding! Easy and safe. But not the kind of road trans-continental adventures are made of.
Yes! I'm a fickle fecker! Back in Panamá I'd have gnawed your arm off for a decent, friendly road like this, one where I felt comfortable and safe! 

*Fickle!*



​It was very, very hot! Too hot! My own fault for leaving so late but I had been very tired and if I'm honest, the situation with the Ecuadorian border is something of a demotivator.

*The bridge was interesting, with an old railway line beside it. Trains have disappeared in this part of Latin America



*​I diverted to pass through Guamo, a long, lively town but saw no spires so didn't look for the Plaza. It was a very vibrant place and I knew if I stopped I might not continue.
After that, though, the road became rolling with surprisingly tough little climbs. Slowing down and working hard I really felt the heat.

Crossing a big river I arrived into the town of Saldaña and went looking for the Plaza. A bit of shade and a rest would help. Another Plaza closed off, but this time for rebuilding. I did a couple of laps looking for a bakery or similar in shade but spotted an oj vendor on a corner. I parked up and ordered a freshly squeezed juice from a very friendly girl. Oh yes please! The biggest one!
I plonked down on a rock to rest and sip.

*Later, a lower sun cast more shade. The coolness of the shade has to be experienced but just emphasises the power of the sun*



​I was beside a type of homemade cargo bike used to carry the oranges and make deliveries. Yep! They do deliveries. An older man was knocking around not doing much and a teenage boy was knocking around too but she was all business, making calls, keeping busy. I doubt this is their usual spot given that the park is closed and this was a broken down corner beside a building.

Then they started to pack up so I finished my drink, paid the pleasant girl with a very gratefully received tip and compliment and went to the bike. That's when, I presume, her brother came over with a business card for me to take with me. 
I started to explain that I was only passing through and it was a waste to give it to me when he started to speak. It was only then that I realised he was, as a friend of mine would describe, "one of God's special people".
Oh Dumbass!
I took the card and showed him where I put it, on top of my bar bag where maps are supposed to go. Nice and visible.
If only I could make people so happy so easily. 
His sister smiled at me appreciatively as I pushed away, happy, I believe, to see him so happy.

*That is one powerful sun!*



​I don't know why it hit me so hard. Perhaps the mood I was in - woe is me the border is closed - or perhaps the uphill struggle that girl and her brother are facing. Life cannot be easy but in the short time I was there it was clear that she was a capable and determined person and yet so "normal", so pleasant. 
I'd have sat there all day drinking juice if they hadn't been packing up but giving her another tip now would not have been welcome, I think. She didn't want charity.
A business card for a juice vendor! If anyone can make a go of it, she can.

I found another place in the shade and had a cold drink. Then a coffee. Then a cold drink again. It was roasting and I was lagging badly. 
A motorcyclist stopped to talk to me asking questions about my trip which fired up the girls in the shop to talk to me too.
A guy wanted to sell me a ticket for a draw which I declined since I wouldn't be here. He didn't like that at all, grilling me as to why I wouldn't be around. His ticket book looked as genuine as a €3 note. Then he demanded that I buy him food. Not a request, a demand. 
Maybe it's a flaw but I rebel against that. He'd tried to sell his tickets to others before me and accepted the brush offs. He was different with me.
He eventually lost the staring match and shuffled off glowering at me.

I got back in the road then deciding to knock out a few more kms. 

*Guess!*



​Natagaima was the next town and I wasn't long on the road until I was wishing I'd stayed back in Saldaña. 
I was making decent progress but I was working hard. Too hard it felt like. I'd eaten nothing since my "croissants" this morning and even though I was low on fuel my belly felt full. I was drinking lots of water.

The kms were ticking by slowly, too slowly for the effort expended. Oh how I miss my cool mountains!

It was darkening as I rolled into town and found the Plaza, a relatively dull affair but I pulled into the bakery for a coffee and a cold drink. I found a cheap room in a very basic place, revelled in the cold shower and went out for food.
I wasn't even hungry but I knew I needed fuel. In such a small place options are limited and all I could manage was some chips, cheese and meat.

*The church with the inconveniently parked truck*



​Wifi was passable so I spent about 4 hours updating this and was ready for sleep about midnight, alarm set for 4 am.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 796, Wednesday, November 17, 2021, Natagaima to Brisas 28 km Total KM 14067
Min meters 340, Max Meters 409
Total Climb 197 Total Descent 147
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 36

Bad Belly Blues

All I wanted was to get up early and get on the road before the full heat hit me. Instead I was awake about 2am with cramps and nausea and too weak to move much. 
I felt horrible. 

*More of the same ....... But at least there's a mountain!*



​It was close to 10am setting off and if the accommodation wasn't so poor I'd have stayed in the one horse town.

*Any excuse to stop!*



​Cycling was a struggle. Any effort above the minimum caused my belly to spasm. 

*More mountains!*



​I had hoped to get off the road and take a back road but that was clearly not going to happen. I'm in desert country! Imagine that! From huge mountains, rainforest vegetation within a day or so I'm heading into a desert. For the full desert experience I had wanted to take a back road. My stomach said not today. 

*Now this was interesting! For a km or so the road was filled with migrating centipedes (or millipedes - I didn't stop to count their legs). It was in a very defined area and I couldn't figure out why. *



​I knew within a few minutes that I wasn't going to make my destination about 60km down the road so settled on a small village about 25km away.

*Some interesting trees too!*



​If there was shade I stopped. If there was a shop with shade I stopped longer.

*More excitement! An ancient covered pickup had managed to roll over and was being hauled out of the ditch. The passengers seemed fine, huddled on the opposite side of the road. A pretty straight road I don't know how it happened.*



​I rolled into the roadside village of Brisas and got a not inexpensive room (beggars can't be choosers) and promptly fell asleep.

*It never fails to amaze me just how green everything is despite the extreme heat and power of the sun *



​Later, as darkness fell I asked in the attached restaurant and got some rice and eggs. They didn't kill me! The first bit of food all day. 

*Today's río. Watching it bubble along made me jealous!*



​My room has no key, no electricity sockets that work but I really don't care! Wifi is too weak for uploading.

*An interesting mountain*



​An early night and an early morning. Tomorrow will be better! 

*I miss my mountains!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 797, Thursday, November 18, 2021, Brisas to Villavieja 28 km Total KM 14095
Min meters 361, Max Meters 439
Total Climb 493 Total Descent 431
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 34

Bouncing back to bliss

This morning was better!
I wasn't 100% or anything close but there was an improvement. I had slept relatively well and didn't feel so weak and tired.
Couldn't face breakfast though! 

I packed up and set off about 6:30 am. It was already heating up and the sun was out.
At first there was plenty of shade and hats off to the Colombians, I had a decent shoulder to plod along. The rolling hills took it out of me though and I had a laugh at the conqueror of the Alto de Letras struggling up gentle hills.

*A quarter of an hour after starting this was my view. I just knew it was going to be a good day!*



​I didn't have a big day planned but I had options. I could stay on the main road and get to Aipe, what I understood to be another roadside town. Or I could turn off the main road and head into the desert and get to the town of Villa Vieja, on the opposite side of a river to Aipe. Villa Vieja (Old Town) spoke to me based on its name and the fact that it was a town in its own right. A lot of these roadside towns only exist for the road passing through and are not that interesting.
Also a factor in the decision was the river - the Magdalena again! - and the fact that it would be a ferry crossing - or so Osmand told me! 
My plan was to get to the turn and then make up my mind.
​I was only a few kms in when the turn off came up. I stopped and listened to my belly. It was feeling brave!
We turned off onto a bouncy backroad and so began today's adventure! 

*The Río Magdalena. The power of the river is phenomenal!*



​I passed through a friendly little village and soon came to a fast flowing river. The motorbikes passing me in both directions had been a sign that traffic was getting across the river and I spied not one but three ferries! 
Now when I say ferry I'm referring to something different than most of us associate with the term. 
There was a small one for pedestrians, motorbikes and me, a larger one for cars and a larger one again for trucks. Very basic and powered by outboard motors!
I didn't have to wait long and had a motorbike with two guys for company. The river was very fast sweeping us downriver before the engine got us slowly back to where we needed to be. I watched as a truck was loaded onto the big one. Two fifty horsepower engines to get it across. I had visions of them losing power and raft (because that's what it would be!) and truck being swept away!

*On the Río Magdalena! This was a thrill! And I didn't get sick!*



​I love rivers and one of the reasons is that they're generally long and have character. The length allows us ríophiles to develop a relationship with them. And their character changes as they weave to the sea and a wandering bike tourist gets to witness these changes. So, this morning I got to check off a couple of things; I got to see the Magdalena when she was a bit younger than up north, I got to see "working" boats on her and best of all, I got to cross her on one of those boats! A much better day already! 

*The other side.......*



​On the other side I set off through very green country filled with birdsong- where was this desert? The road, such as it was, was crap but I had expected that and was in no rush. 

*Mountains..... But where's the feckin' desert??*



​I came to the village of La Victoria and found the little Park, away from the main street. I ate an orange in its calmness then doubled back to visit a museum. Of course, it was closed! 
Not many stores were open and I couldn't find a coffee anywhere! 
I headed out of town.

*This is how the camera captured the light. A special photo methinks*



​It took less than twenty minutes for the greenery to recede and for the landscape to open up. 

*At the closed museum. This happens to be the last photo of yet another travelling companion! 😊*



​There were mountains in the distance and trees became scarcer. They were replaced with large cacti. In fact the whole landscape seemed to be levelling out and becoming lower. Then the green started thinning exposing more and more sand and rock.

*Still green! Where's the feckin' desert?*







*A ford! *




​Such is how I entered the Tatacoa desert!






To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 797, Thursday, November 18, 2021, Brisas to Villavieja 28 km Total KM 14095
Min meters 361, Max Meters 439
Total Climb 493 Total Descent 431
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 34

Bouncing back to bliss Part 2


Despite it being a little after 9 am Gizmo was hitting 40C! There was no shade. Anywhere! This was the desert experience!

*Hot! Hot! Hot!*



​The road was rock and gravel, washboard and holes. It was slow going but my belly was holding up ok. 

*The green was losing the battle for survival......*



​The road rolled up and down giving me a good workout on the way up and demanding care in both directions. Traffic was practically non existent except for regular motorbikes. I'd a good amount of water and I sipped steadily. 

*Now I can see the desert!*



​The landscape though, was stunning! And interesting. What I'd call cairns, small stacks of rocks, sculptures, almost, dotted the roadside then in some places there were hundreds of them! 

*Yep! That's desert alright!*



​Of course, such a landscape fired up my Cowboy imagination and I was delighted to spy a lone horse way off in the distance. 

*The lone horse looking at me looking at him. I know I had no food in me and I can appreciate that the sun was pounding down on me but that horse was like a sign sent down by the Touring Gods*







*Who wouldn't want to explore that road?






Notice the cairns*







*Now, try to not notice the cairns!*







*Yep! I'm definitely in the desert!*








*Yesterday I could barely ride. Today wild horses couldn't have kept me from riding!*




​To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 797, Thursday, November 18, 2021, Brisas to Villavieja 28 km Total KM 14095
Min meters 361, Max Meters 439
Total Climb 493 Total Descent 431
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 34

Bouncing back to bliss Part 3

With no shade there were no places to stop and when I did stop to take a photo I was finding it hard to control the bike. Then again I hadn't eaten much in the last 36 hours. 

*One of my favourite shots*




​It was hard, hot work but very enjoyable. I was under little pressure and not a big distance to go. Had I felt better I could have done a loop through more desert to Villa Vieja but I wasn't that strong. 

*I didn't even mind the hills! That sun must be strong!*



​Villa Vieja was pleasantly small with a small Plaza and amazing trees! I found a bakery for a coffee and a cold drink but stayed inside - the sun is very powerful.

*Getting close to town some of the green came back. This is looking back just before Villavieja*



​Quite early in the day I checked Booking and got a deal, a bit more than usual, but a step up on recent standards. A day of relaxation in a degree of comfort would be appreciated! 

*Close to town I lost the desert!*



​My room wasn't ready but I could leave the bike and take a wander around. The wandering didn't last long in the heat, morphing into a coffee under a shady tree. It was good to feel good!

*Just one of several fantastic trees in the Plaza*



​I got to update this and generally relax and have a thoroughly different day to yesterday. The joys of life on the road! 


*Another fabulous tree and what I think is a bear!*







*Yep! Another tree and this one has magiclight!*






*Do I need to? Really?*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021, Villavieja to Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert 25 km Total KM 14120
Min meters 406, Max Meters 603
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 312
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33
Revelations in the Desert

So I had a wonderfully relaxing evening. The hotel had a small pool so I even had a bit of a swim! I wandered around the small town and had a bite to eat then sat in the Plaza in the dark and just enjoyed the life all around me. A beautiful full moon shone down on everything.

As usual, my plans for an early start were thwarted - this time by a breakfast included in the price! I can't turn my nose up at free food!

*Leaving Villavieja behind I was back in the greenery but the view ahead hinted at what was in store



*​Apparently there's a lunar eclipse tonight and that got me thinking - I'm in a desert area famed for star gazing. Coincidence? Methinks not!
I started dreaming of a night under the stars! Uncomfortable, for sure, in this heat but a rare or possibly unique experience.
Then I investigated a bit more. The eclipse was actually last night!
Ha! Dumbass!

*Looking pretty green still but those mountains were to amaze me all day long....*



​So when I was packing up and one of the very pleasant ladies asked me where I was going I confounded her by telling her I wasn't really sure!
I can take a paved road to a town not too far away and then rejoin the highway or I can head out into the desert for a night of camping under the stars.
Down to the Plaza to figure it all out!

*Ooooh! A hint of desert! A huge cactus and those stunted trees that I like so much*



​As I was sipping on a coffee a young Italian couple got out of a tuk tuk. If you thought that I was travelling heavy you should have a look at their gear! They even have a guitar!
It's just not fair!
I got to wash my clothes, have multiple showers and am not long dressed but next to these two I look like a tramp! (I suppose I am!😊). I didn't know there was such chique style in backpacking gear!

*The locals were bemused by me but always friendly!*



​Just as I was about to head off my phone pinged with a most welcome message. A good friend of mine has sent me the legendary Springsteen "No Nukes" concert! A quick return to the hotel to download it and I set off, for once my phone playing music in my pocket.

I bounced out of town and re-entered the surprisingly green desert.

*Still green but look at that road and remember the soundtrack beating out of my pocket!*



​If I have sometimes suggested that the Touring Gods are capricious, evil, malevolent or cruel beings today taught me the folly of such thoughts.
They may be harsh taskmasters at times but I think my day proves that underneath it all they care deeply for us poor souls.

*Or what about this one?*



​I entered a whole new world, one of stone, rock and sand, of cacti and stunted trees, of rolling hills (steep buggers!) that gave stunning views and deep hollows that stole them back.
It was amazing! Blasting hot and bright but absolutely stunning.
It was like the Touring Gods were saying "We're not finished with you yet, boy. Not by a long shot!".
Just the other day I wrote that it felt the most foreign of days and here I am, in a completely different climate about to say the same thing! I've been in deserts before but not like this.
It also needs to be understood that I've got Springsteen singing out of my pocket. That music, always more vivid live, has been the soundtrack to my dreams for decades and is filled with imagery of the open road and boundless hope. I was travelling with an old friend. A supportive old friend, one who understands the value of hope.

*Bored? Not me! In just one of many examples of things just being perfect "Promised Land" was playing on this hill. That was my "Colombian song" before I arrived*



​The last days the barriers on the road of this Big, Big Trip were coming down and I was slowly coming to a decision on what to do. Yet here I was, on as open a road as is possible listening to such comforting messages about all the open road can give us.
I might have missed the lunar eclipse last night but there was a hell of a lot of things lining up today!!!

*For the geographically challenged (me!) they even put up a sign. *



​I've no idea what the many motorcyclists passing must have thought what with my loon face beaming ridiculously!

*The Tatacoa Desert*




​Damn, but I am one lucky fecker!


To be continued.....
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021, Villavieja to Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert 25 km Total KM 14120
Min meters 406, Max Meters 603
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 312
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Revelations in the Desert Part Two

The landscape was very interesting and incredibly varied. I started in green land, the first sign of desert being stunted trees with wide crowns offering some shade. Then the green became thinner and a reddish rock more prominent. Within a bend, it seemed, the green was banished and I was on Mars! 

*And still the greenery hung on, not prepared to be bullied away*



​The rock formations were amazing. I've no idea what forces formed them. Wind? Water? Or how long ago. 




​The red didn't last long, although it did make some guest appearances later and was replaced with a greyish, gold rock. My road twisted and turned through this landscape giving me lots of amazing vantage points. I used them all! 

*I think it's safe to say that I'm now in the desert!*



​I was in no hurry. iOverlander had lots of camping spots shown clustered along the road. Spoilt for choice I was. 

*It was pretty hot!*



​Of particular beauty were the mountains today. They were all around but away in the distance. Those in the direct beam of the sun were more like faint blue illusions, hardly real, and requiring focus to see their margins. Those out of the glare were clearer, stronger, far more defined, imperious and real. When the sun hit its zenith all the mountains verged on transparent, then, as it sank lower and lower they became substantial again right in front of my eyes. An amazing mountain performance.

*And just like that the red rock was gone..... At least for a while.*



​I arrived at the first place I'd noted from iOverlander and had no intention of setting up camp. It was far too early and the road today was calling out to me very loudly and insistently. "Come on", it was saying, "let me show you what I have for you". That'll sound silly but I was easily persuaded that today was a special day.

*Then it came back in splashes of colour



*​I did stop for a cold drink though and to write up some notes. The words were filling up my head.

*The greenery sometimes came back too*



​When a busload of French tourists showed up it was time to leave. Past noon it was searingly hot but once moving a wind eased the sun's power.

*Sometimes the rich green and the dry red colours combined to create a really vibrant scene - a rich contrast to the bumpy desert road*






*And I got to ride right through all of it!






I liked this cloud*





​To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021, Villavieja to Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert 25 km Total KM 14120
Min meters 406, Max Meters 603
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 312
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Revelations in the Desert Part Three

*My road! All mine!*



​Before I really knew it I was at another spot from iOverlander. This one had the advantage of being close to an observatory where they gave nightly lectures. It didn't look great and the road was still luring me along so I continued. Options for camping would be fewer from now on.

*I really liked this cloud too! I can't think of anything I didn't like at this stage of the day. The Touring Gods could have filled the sky with floating turds and I don't think I'd have been disappointed*



​Since the first stop my road surface had deteriorated badly but I really didn't care. Today wasn't about speed, or even comfort. Today, I felt, was the Touring Gods putting on an exhibition.

*Even now looking at this picture I can still hear the road calling out to me*



​At first, I thought "lunar" would be an appropriate adjective to describe the roads but the landscape was so intensely other worldly that I decided the moon was too close! I came up with "Plutonic" as the most appropriate description 

*And every now and then the greenery fought back!*



​Cattle grids, more like buffalo grids, were the bane of my life. Of questionable uniformity and with wide gaps I had repeat visions of Morelian drains. Ah, a bit of spice is all part of the fun!

*Roadshot! It was not the easiest road for riding but with such little traffic I could use it all*



​Other than a steady stream of motorbikes the road was very quiet. Locals were careful to give me lots of room, and I them, normally pulling in. Lots of waves and smiles.

*Plutonic? Perhaps a bit hyperbolic but certainly strange in a beautiful and intriguing way*



​I came to the penultimate place to camp as the sky in front was turning ominously dark and a few rumbles from the sky suggested a craving, perhaps for a loaded bike tourist.

*And great fun!*



​I had a coffee and thought about my options.




​There was one more place, quite a good sounding one another 6km up the road.

*The road, the landscape, the mountains and the clouds...... They all created a fantastic visual feast.*



​The road was pretty rough by now so that was a long 6km. After that nothing until a town maybe 12 km further. On this road I was putting all my eggs in the basket of that one spot as I'd never make town before dark. Besides, I wanted a night in the desert! Where I was was friendly but still the road called me on. 
I moved on.

*Can you blame me?



*

​To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021, Villavieja to Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert 25 km Total KM 14120
Min meters 406, Max Meters 603
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 312
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Revelations in the Desert Part Four

*Dinosaurs! Out of shot is a sign forbidding in the strictest terms any climbing on the animals. Given that this is the middle of nowhere I was sad for all the kids with nothing to do except climb a dinosaur - and that was forbidden!*



​Back on the bike and bouncing into some very ominous clouds I adopted my "survivalist" persona. You know, the kind of guy on the tv shows who can not just survive in the wild, but thrive, and make friends with all the wild animals? Except I have none of the skills!

*That direction is pretty, pleasant and benign*



​I decided that the rain wouldn't fall on me and then worked backwards from there to reassure myself that I was right.

*These guys are working their way up my list of pretty trees!*



​The wind would blow the clouds away and by keeping a slow pace any rain would miss me. Then a strange part of the clouds seemed to be heading in my direction so I had to speed up only to slow back down again. A fun game!

*Believe it or not the clouds were so purply dark and the sun so bright that it messed up the phone camera's lighting sensor. That strange looking cloud was anything but harmless!*



​Only it wasn't quite so much fun! I was weaving between a few hills where the road was effectively a dry river bed! Any rain and I'd have more than wet feet! Then the surface changed to dried mud. Any rain here, even ahead of me, and I'd be stuck!

*This one is closer to reality but nowhere near forbidding enough!*



​I didn't have to worry about rain, not today. The angry clouds got close but passed by.

*This is a better representation*



​The road, though, was tough and required a few bouts of pushing for safety's sake.

*Meanwhile, behind me is a picture of ...... desert*​






*It does make a pretty scene though!



*
​To be continued.....
​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021, Villavieja to Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert 25 km Total KM 14120
Min meters 406, Max Meters 603
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 312
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Revelations in the Desert Part Five

I heard the place before I saw it, a steady rhythmic beat of amplified music. A sign up at the first place I stopped had the does and don'ts of the desert, one being no music. I had been "No Nukes" free since. It wasn't the greatest first impression.

*It's a good thing it didn't rain!



*​
It was off the road and up a steep rutted road so after parking the bike I headed for what looked like a bar. A couple of friendly dogs came over, a more positive sign. Of two people behind the bar one just walked past me ignoring me while the other took his time even noticing me. I smiled and asked about camping. He looked confused. "Camping", I said, "in my tent". "You do have places?". I had passed I think, four signs for this place, all advertising camping, but still he looked confused. Then he said he had a place for 35k. 35k is a decent hotel room in my world and the going rate is 8-10k in the other places. Even maybe 15-20k since I'm solo but 35k?
"35k?", I questioned adding that I had my own tent (a lot of places supply the tent!).
When he confirmed that it was I laughed, said I wasn't crazy and walked back to my bike.

*That was a scary sky! Thunder was rolling too! And the random lightning bolt!*



​Dramatic exit achieved, I now had a problem!
I reckoned I had an hour of daylight left. Going back to the last place would leave me completing the journey in the dark and on this road that could be a legbreaker.

*Fading light means I should hurry......*
_*Or maybe not so much*_
*



*​
The best thing was to continue on and hope that the road improved closer to town. Maybe I'd spot a decent spot for a bit of wildcamping or come across a place not on my maps. I set off again.

*Not a road for flying along.....*



​The light in this part of the world can be beautiful in its own right and as it lost power it allowed the mountains come to vivid life around me. Such views are really not conducive to going fast!

*I never really understood what magic the sun can weave. In my defence, I'm Irish. The sun and the Irish are hardly well acquainted*



​A lot of country was fenced off but on a bend I spied some decent space and a bit of a hill for cover. Unfortunately, I also spied a yappy dog who did what yappy dogs do. I couldn't see a house anywhere but in any case I was no longer stealthy.

*I was no longer worried about rain. The sky, I felt, was putting on a show as compensation for scaring me earlier*



​
A little later I found more space on a bend and investigated.
The Touring Gods have delivered one more time today. Close to the road but totally hidden. Lots of space and it's all for me!

*Bumbling along as the sun sinks (disconcertingly fast so close to the equator) on a strange road with no place to stay I wasn't in the least bit worried. Colombia is very comfy.*








*I thought the scene above would be the "shot of the day" on my dash to find a place to sleep. Turns out I was wrong! Not ten minutes later I saw this.....*​





Out in the Colombian desert I'm home!

*Mi casa*




​For @netman
Wild camp spot google
https://maps.app.goo.gl/fXcDVZG3rWtvBoWh9
And
Osmand
https://osmand.net/go?lat=3.19746&lon=-75.08069&z=13
Thank you!😊

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Nov 2021)

Day 798, Friday, November 19, 2021, Villavieja to Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert 25 km Total KM 14120
Min meters 406, Max Meters 603
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 312
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 33

Epilogue

Apologies for what is now the sixth post on one day of cycling. 

By way of explanation for why this was such a wonderful day at the absolutely right time I wrote the following in the Plaza of Villavieja before I set off......

_I was pondering all last evening about what I'm going to do about the Ecuador situation and I think I've come to a conclusion. Not the one I would have hoped for but, on balance, I think that I have had unbelievable good fortune since Covid reared its ugly head. Best not to push it. 

The Big, Big Trip will be coming to an end. 
Not yet, but the Latin part of it is. More than two years on the road and I still haven't made it to the Equator! What kind of bike traveller am I?😊

At one stage I'd have had an open mind on extending it to other parts. The Pamir highway is another dream. Russia has long been a place that I'd love to get to know. 
One thing that I have learned from this trip is that language enhances the experience on so many levels that any future trips will be to places that I can communicate with people. All the views, the mountains, the rivers, the deserts aren't half as impressive as chatting to people. At least for me. 
Uprooting and continuing somewhere else just isn't on the agenda for now. Not philosophically and certainly not budget wise.
Stopping now leaves me with the Big, Big Trip Part Two for dreaming and inspiration.

Instead, I'm going to ask the Colombians to extend my visa (straightforward, I believe) and pass another couple of months here then head back to Europe, probably Spain. More language practice!

I've had an idea of what to do with the rest of my days but I'm not sure where. I'll start looking when I get to Spain. 

So, here I am sitting in the Plaza of Villa Vieja after a coffee and empanada and putting all that down on "paper".
My eyes are welling up ....._

And then the Touring Gods went and gave me that day!

Lucky doesn't even begin to describe me.

*The moon over my desert home






My desert home the next morning*








*There's always a prickly neighbour!*








*The moon again! It made the whole place so bright!*






*Mi casa en el desierto*






*Was I silly to think the moon was watching out for me?*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2021)

Day 799, Saturday, November 20, 2021, Wildcamp in the Tatacoa desert to Neiva 53 km Total KM 14173
Min meters 436, Max Meters 659
Total Climb 695 Total Descent 722
Min Temp 29 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 32

Back to civilisation

For a wild camp in tbe desert last night was very pleasant. There was very little traffic, only one car and a few motorbikes. Once I got used to the fact they had to slow down several times within earshot I could relax as I was completely hidden.
I boiled up some water and made pasta while I got the tent up then sat down in the luxury of my camp chair and appreciated my good fortune.

*What a great road to start my day!*



​Any chance of star gazing was blown by cloud and once slathered in insect repellent I could relax and read. I considered taking the fly off the tent in case the cloud would drift away but figured that might be pushing my luck!

It would have been! Sometime about 1:30 the rain started and pittered pattered down for most of the night.

Awake about 5 I dragged myself out and was really peed off. The floor of my tent was soaking - but only where anything pressed down - me and a bag. I hate Exped.

*I didn't enjoy this one quite so much! I'd have hated to attempt this in fading light last night*



​I set about making coffee and figured the best thing was to relax and let it dry out. So a relaxing morning was had. A lot more traffic, all motorbikes, but I was invisible. A few cows showed up to graze and a few lizards popped up a few times.

Eventually I got itchy feet and packed up the wet tent anyways. I'd stop later and dry it out.

*Now this is my kind of road!*



​I had about 7km to go to the next town and breakfast. I had about half a liter of water which should be enough.

I was glad I stopped where I did for two reasons. Firstly, the "road" was brutal with lots of perfectly smooth rocks and very steep sections - tricky in either direction. And secondly there were no obvious likely spots to pitch a tent. I'd have been stuck in the dark on a lethal road trying to get to town. The Touring Gods were looking out for me!

*Guess! A delightful, pleasant small town



*​I passed a farm after 700 meters and met the friendly farmer herding his cows along the road for the morning milking. A little bit later a friendly chap pulled up on his motorbike. Fifteen minutes to town he told me. Never trust someone on motorised transport!

More than an hour later I struggled into Baraya my spirits lifted by every second or third house blasting happy Latin music!
I was charmed by the little Plaza and pulled up at a bakery for a breakfast of eggs, arepa and coffee. I do not get arepas! A round disc of pure blandness served cold. Sweet ones are available filled with a sweet filling but as a breakfast accompaniment? They may as well be cardboard!
That's the one complaint I can offer about Colombia - the food is boring. Still better than most of Central America, pleasantly cheap but bland. Oh, how I miss my Mexican food!

*Back on a proper road I still hadn't fully left the desert! I love these kinds of shots!*



​Over in the plaza there was some kind of junior school health drive and happy kids music was playing, people in uniform were playing games with a health/nutritional focus.
I was approached by a woman to do a blood pressure test, then a diabetes test for 5000 pesos. Why not? I thought. Apparently, I'm in tip top shape!

It was a lively little town, busy and friendly and I could have stayed. Instead, I set off delighted to discover that I was now on a proper, if small, road. It was actually very pleasant, lots and lots of trees to offer shelter from the sun. Rolling hills, though. Long climbs with gentle descents. In the heat I took it easy.

Before the next town of Tello I found what I was looking for along the road - a bit of space and a bit of shade. The space was for the tent and the shade for me.
I cleared the area of thorns and laid the tent out upside down. In the time it took to assemble the poles the bottom was dry! I set it up on the side of the road and ket the sun do its job. It didn't take long! If any passing traffic thought I was strange they kept their opinions to themselves.
Then, satisfied, I packed up and hit the road again.

*Drying out the tent*



​I stopped in Tello for a lemonade, another lovely Park/Plaza then a coffee and a pastry. Couldn't find cigarettes for love nor money! Looking online, a bike friendly hotel in Neiva had a deal so I booked it. Then hit the road again.

Where the road had previously been quite good it now went to pot! At first the potholes arrived. Then the surface disappeared. Then it was dry mud. Finally dried mud with potholes. With traffic slowing down it bunched up and the road seemed busier. Another little town afforded the chance of a cold drink and some ciggies. And a rest! It was hot and still the rolling hills.

*I nearly had a Iohan moment. The white horse came to the fence and neighed at me as I went past. I pulled up, parked the bike and wandered over to make a new friend. The brown horse ambled over too. Unfortunately, klutz tripped on the uneven ground and startled the two horses. No coaxing could get them back to the fence*



​Neiva is a big town and I know this because I "arrived" in Neiva with 7km still to go to get to the centre! It was easy cycling though thanks to a decent cycle path and I made it easily enough to the centre and the Plaza. Stopped at traffic lights a little girl in a car was staring at me with big bug eyes. I gave her a smile and a wave and she was delighted waving back. She obviously made some noise because everyone in the car turned in my direction and copied her friendly waving.

*The lovely Park/Plaza in Tello. A lot of places have that white, conical, metal frame which will be used as a Christmas tree. What I can't figure out is if they are in situ all year long*



​I parked up for my habitual coffee on arrival and immediately was approached by a guy who wouldn't stop bugging me. He wanted to learn English, no Irish, no English again. He kept asking me to write "English words" down despite me explaining I had no pen or paper. I had no idea what words even that he wanted me to write down. I tried explaining that I was tired having travelled a long way in the heat but that didn't work. Rightly or wrongly my spidey senses were buzzing. He finally left just as I was finishing my coffee. I contemplated getting on the bike, doing a lap and starting over but the hotel was only down the road so I checked in.

*Approaching Neiva. Surprisingly stress free for such a big place*




​A lovely lady checked me in, gave me the choice of taking the bike up to the room or leaving it at reception. She even carried a couple of panniers upstairs! The room is big but hot and a bit noisy and it's cheap but after a cold shower I felt revived and set off out to explore.

*Delicious shade!*



​I know I'm repeating myself but I feel very comfortable here and my routine of a shower and out to explore is now accompanied by a tingle of excitement. It's a very pleasant feeling!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

Edited to correct date


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Nov 2021)

Day 800, Sunday, November 21, 2021, Neiva

Neiva flatters to deceive.
It's the capital of the state or department of Huila and is another river town on the Magdalena. It seems quite prosperous but after some exploration I'm not quite so sure! It's feckin' hot, though!

*The Cathedral on the main Plaza*



​Initially I took a wander around the Plaza then headed down a shopping street but got distracted by a potato cake topped with cheese and what could best be described as pineapple marmalade. Delicious! I mean really delicious! A cup of orange juice to wash it down and I snacked in the park. That would keep the hunger pangs at bay for a while.

*A wider shot of the Plaza and the Cathedral. That's my coffee lady in front of the trees. Note the sociability. Buying a coffee can be a very pleasant experience unlike my handful of times in Starbucks*



​According to Google there was nothing really of interest in terms of museums and Neiva doesn't show up in my guide book so I just wandered. Fading light meant that I didn't head down to the one place I did want to visit - a park along the river. Instead I explored the shopping areas, both the "shop" ones and the "stall" ones. Busy it was on a Saturday evening.

*Atop a Mirador, or viewing platform. You can see the spire of the Cathedral but I'm amazed how quickly the city ends in jungle!*



​Not hungry, I returned to the hotel updated this on surprisingly good WiFi for such a cheap place, did a few chores like wash up my cookset, some laundry etc. then set out for food. 

*The mighty Magdalena! It is incredibly powerful! *



​Later now there was a bit of an edge in the air and no shortage of people scrabbling in bins. It took a while to find a place and ended up having a pizza. Sitting outside as I try to do I was like a magnet for people looking for money.

*Street art. There's very little about. *



​Walking back to the hotel every bin or pile of rubbish outside a business had a homeless person rummaging through. That's a lot of homeless people!
The Plaza was surprisingly poorly lit with some sections in total darkness. They just happened to have several people bedding down for the night.

I returned to the hotel and considered how disappointed I was after my initial excitement. I decided to stay another day. Sunday would be a better day!

*A part of the riverside park. A rundown disappointment. But I did like these seats from repurposed tyres*



​You might think that, but it wasn't really.
The centre was very, very quiet. A lot of shops were closed and while most of the market stalls were open not many people were around.

I headed down to a riverside park I'd spotted on Google. I had my backpack with my rainjacket (you never know!), my kindle and powerbank for my phone. Imagining a long, lazy day beside the river I set off with a spring in my step.

*There are a lit of these "wavy" tiles. This was in an open area but there are also strips along footpaths. While completely flat they create the impression of uneven waves - presumably a nod to the river. I found them very disorienting in the heat*



​It didn't last long. The "park" didn't consist of much more than a few pieces of old, painted concrete that people could sit on close to the river. One section which seemed to contain numerous food outlets was closed off for renovations and there were a few small, random groups sitting around drinking beer. A few seperate groups of young fellas were hanging around, staring and unfriendly. I didn't hang around long.

*A separate Plaza and location of the market stalls. I believe the Sculpture is in honour of the history of the city*



​I decided to stay with the river for a while but that didn't work out too well. Lots more homeless people along the riverbank and some clearly lived there. Desperately sad.
I walked as far as a monument to the river and then headed back to the centre.
Mid afternoon it was deader than earlier. I couldn't find a coffee for love nor money! Eventually I found an open bakery and had one before returning to the hotel to make use of the WiFi.

*A monument to the river. A frankly uncomfortable walk to get there didn't put me in the right frame of mind to enjoy it*



​Later, I went out for food and found myself traipsing through eerie and deserted streets. Well, just me and a lot of homeless folk.

**Patronising alert!* I just love the simple things they do for kids. Pay a small fee for a picture on a horse..... Or an alpaca! These things are so common and so "old fashioned" where I come from. I love them! Some day I'm going to be a brave boy and get my photo taken on one!😊*



​Neiva was a strange town. It's big but one of the quietest places I've been, at least on Saturday night and Sunday. I think there's another, newer area that may have been busier. I'd given it a second chance to impress me and I'd be glad to leave tomorrow.
What a dull place to mark 800 days on the road! (Me being me I had no idea of that landmark until just now

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

Edited to correct date


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2021)

Day 801, Monday, November 22, 2021, Neiva to Yaguará 54 km Total KM 14227
Min meters 438, Max Meters 640
Total Climb 540 Total Descent 389
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 32

Put me beside water....... 

I'll tell you, sometimes there's no greater feeling than rolling into a strange town, spying the church spire (or spires as is the case today) then wandering towards them slowly, taking in all that is to be seen, heard and felt, then parking up the bike and walking around.
People smile. They talk to me. The Plaza is green, pleasant and has all kinds of people - the old folk sitting in the shade of magnificent trees, teenagers cleaning up a section, kids playing (and staring big eyed and open mouthed at the guy from the bike), parents supervising and nattering - and I just feel so incredibly comfortable.
I'm on one side of the Plaza trying to find good angles to record the impressive church and the bike is over on the far side, out of my view. Am I worried? Not in the slightest. 
Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great!

*Early in the day view. Hot, relatively flat and mountains way off in all distances*



​A thunderous downpour shattered my sleep last night just after two am leaving me very groggy, tired and slow to get up.
Today was going to be back on the main road and as good as that is I have been totally spoillt the last few weeks with small roads. 
I hauled my ass off the bed and down to the Plaza for a coffee. Then back to pack everything up. Then a bite of breakfast across the road then load up the bike. Jeez! I was tired already! 
Out with the phone and jazz up the route. There's a smaller road that runs along a lake - feck the highway!

*Finally away from the city. Crossing the Magdalena was the gateway to the countryside. A tricky crossing though - one way only (the folks on the other side waiting patiently for their turn - no such thing as traffic lights here!), a disconcerting metal surface vibrating and shaking, lots of views down the river below to add a twist of vertigo.*



​Getting through the centre was fine, negotiating the outskirts much more challenging as Osmand's info for cycling was poor bringing me to a dead end instead of a bridge over the river. (Ordinarily I'll use Osmand in car mode but since Neiva seemed well served by bike paths I decided to plot a bike specific route). My improvisation got me on the wrong side of an (uncrossable) dual carriageway but I eventually got on the right road. A good two laner, moderately busy but this is Colombia - it's a bit noisier and hardly any more stressful than an empty road.

I knew I'd have this mainish road for a while but that then I'd take a smaller one. I was hoping the smaller one would have some vegetation - my late start meant that I missed any coolness and the sun was blasting down. The wind, pretty strong into my face, was keeping me cool but in strong sunshine my head is the weak point.

*A slight detour*



​Pleasant cycling, steady progress and I was leaving Neiva behind me. I was amused at my thought process last night. Two roads, one a highway, the other smaller and going by a large body of water and I had chosen the highway! What was I thinking?😊

I stopped at a roadside mini supermarket hoping for coffee but alas no. Instead I bought cold water and ate some cookies chatting to the security guard of a gated community. Then back on the road and I soon came across my turn off from 43.

*The bliss of the smaller road!*



​The road was smaller, narrower and it did have more vegetation! I'm getting good at this! The sun was a little high, though but that's my fault.
The relatively flat road became more rolling too, but that's no biggy these days.
Small mines appeared, some beside the road, some far off in the hills. I believe Uranium might be present in these parts.

I was feeling pretty relaxed so turned off to pass through the very pleasant and friendly village of El Juncal with one of the wildest Plaza/Parks I've come across! Lots of people smiled as I wandered through. It's amazing the power a smile has to communicate positive vibes.

Back on the road I was in great form keeping a nice steady pace. Entering the small roadside village of Betania I spied an "I❤️Aruba" sign which I thought would make a good photo. Pulling up I was invited into the empty restaurant beside it, given a seat, a very welcome cold drink and engaged in conversation. Two bus drivers came along for lunch and I passed a very pleasant 90 minutes in conversation. 
There was a pattern; I'd be asked a question on just about any topic and answer then the proprietor would embark on a mini lecture with intermittent input from the others while I did my best to just follow along. Once he built up a head of steam he was hard to divert! Then I'd be lobbed another question and the process would be repeated. Great fun! And I was very impressed with my ability to keep up, not with everything, but certainly the gist. 
Eventually I made my excuses and headed on my ears ringing with good wishes. I seem to be in a particularly friendly area!

*A little bit of nostalgia*



​It wasn't long until I was arriving at the lake and what seemed to be a dam. Views were minimal until spying a roadside restaurant with a great view I pulled in. An old, old dog took offence to my presence and barked her head off but a couple of women made me most welcome. Yes, they had coffee and I enjoyed a delicious cup and a half, a lovely view of the lake and a very pleasant chat with two ladies of different generations. I even managed to make friends with Luna, the angry dog!

*Roadside view. A harmless hill. The ones in front looked a bit more threatening!*



​Then back on the bike for the last 10km or so to Yaguará. 
What a delightful little town as I wrote at the start. Instant comfort! 

*The lake! Happy times!*






*It's an artificial lake - the land has been flooded for a hydro electric generation station*






*The Plaza in Yaguará*






*At night teenagers flirting, dogs walking, people talking and this....*



​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2021)

Some more odd'n'ends.....

*Sleeping dogs will be an abiding memory of Colombia! They sleep everywhere, even right at the side of the road!






Different animal warning signs. There are just so many!







Police station. That's only half the collection of motorbikes! The other half are around the corner! Two officers per bike! They have pickups too, but a lot less. I saw one poor guy sitting on a bench running down the middle of the bed of the pickup, handcuffed from behind and at that height visible to everyone! *







*Colombian Speed Bumps! The most effective yet! There are a number of different kinds but these buggers are incredibly hard. Too fast? Your front wheel takes flight like ET is in the basket! In urban areas they are in pairs very close together, on the open road more spaced out. They also use inverse ones - strips removed from the road. Just as effective. Sometimes they post warnings other times it's just part of the fun!*








*Pigeons! The flying rats! They have no fear! While I've seen horrible, nasty, evil, black vultures the whole way since México, Colombia is the only place I'll see them in towns. Yuck!*







*They have a type of multi-coloured "chicken bus" here too but not too many and most seem very old and on their last legs. I've learned to be particularly careful when I see one. I don't know of its the old equipment but there's an aura of danger around them*








*I really, really have no idea!! *








*Apropos nothing - I just love how things get reused here, especially tyres. Not the greatest photo but you can see how a bit of paint, a bit of labour, a lot of care can turn something useless into something useful and pretty.*



​

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2021)

Day 802, Tuesday, November 23, 2021, Yaguará to Tesalia 48 km Total KM 14275
Min meters 556, Max Meters 1160
Total Climb 1240 Total Descent 991
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 27

Furious waters!

I was nearly propelled out of bed due to a booming noise sometime close to 2am. It was the start of a tremendous downpour that lasted several hours. Sometimes I forget the power of the rain here but Mother Nature always reminds me! So far I think I've been very lucky!

*The road wasted absolutely no time in letting me know what it was going to be like!*



​I got up about 6:30, a tad late, got organised and stepped outside - to more rain. Just normal rain. Bugger.
I brought my gear downstairs to the bike and it seemed to have stopped so set off to get me a coffee.
Since I was on the edge of town and near the lakeshore a group of fishermen hinted at coffee. Sure enough a feisty woman had a little cart and I got my coffee. Just in time for a downpour! Stuck under a shelter for 40 minutes there was nothing to do except sip my coffee and watch the rain. Another time, another place a huge clock would be ticking loudly booming in my ears and jolting my heart. Here? Not so much. A chance to look at the muddy shoreline, the "floating" restaurant - in reality on a mudbank - the small boats the local fishermen use not that far evolved from dugout canoes and the fishermen themselves. 

*Today's río - fast and furious*



​It finally stopped so I wandered back, loaded up and headed off in spitting rain. 
Hungry, I parked up beside a bank and bought a juice and empanada from a shy girl working out of her house, a display cabinet in the doorway. A woman walking down the path paused slightly at Roccado for a good look, then tapped one of the panniers affectionately, turned to me with a beaming smile and entered the bank. I don't know what my bike said to her but she liked it.

*Not the brightest morning ever..... But there's clouds draping mountains so i'm pretty happy*



​I set off again on something of a mystery day. I had an idea of where I was going based on accommodation availability but I expected to find places not on my apps. I was expecting to start off on a good road but I knew I'd be dealing with some poor roads too - I just didn't know how poor or how long. There'd be a fair whack of climbing too!

*Some fertile farmland and some fertile clouds!*



​Well, the road situation got clarified quickly when the surface started disappearing! Slow going with a threatening sky. I promised to enjoy the road if the rain stayed off - I did and it did!

*Nice views up high*



​Not everyone was so lucky. A pleasant young fella had been playing tag with me on his three wheeled motorbike/trailer carrying steel rods extending in front and behind. After about the third time overtaking him I stopped on a bridge to listen to the roaring water beneath and smoked a ciggie to let him build up a head of steam. A little later I caught him again, stopped on a deep rutted hill with an engine that didn't work. I offered him my phone to call for help but he didn't need it. He never did catch up with me again despite a couple of long breaks!

*Sometimes there was a surface... If I looked hard enough*



​Initially steep, the gradients became kinder but the surface was often sand and fine gravel. Difficult at the best of times but a good soaking had made them more interesting! Decent views compensated though. 

*The view from my lunch spot*



​At the top of the first hill I paused for a bite to eat and dug out my tortillas and peanut butter. The super liquid butter had dried out and was rock hard! Unspreadable! Not the tastiest of lunches!

*My lunch spot. The shelter is actually a shrine (common in these parts) and notice the sign "Iquira starts here" the town is 7km away on that road! Colombian road engineers seem to suffer from a bit of a premature problem*​





I continued on interesting roads, bouncing along avoiding puddles, potholes, and deep gouges as best I could. The village of Iquira gave me the chance of a proper bit of food although the bakery offerings were quite poor. A pretty town but the folk were reserved. A wonderful tree in the centre of the Plaza, though.

*That's the revenge of the Colombian road engineers for my tasteless joke!*






*Just before Iquira there was a new road surface laid. Look what the ungrateful rain did to it!*





To be continued.........​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2021)

Day 802, Tuesday, November 23, 2021, Yaguará to Tesalia 48 km Total KM 14275
Min meters 556, Max Meters 1160
Total Climb 1240 Total Descent 991
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 27

Furious waters! Part Two

It was after Iquira that the sun came out a bit and the scenery really livened up! I was back in the mountains! And on a mountain road!

*All of a sudden it seemed, things changed! The sun came out, there were patches of blue. The road got worse, though!*



​I'd a hefty climb, a drop and then another hefty climb. Thankfully, gradients weren't too bad, typically 6-8% as opposed to the 12-14% earlier. On a slippery surface though it was slow going. Almost to a man the motorbikers waved, smiled and tooted supportively. Workmen on the road waved and cheered, one group flagging me down for a chat.

*Hard work but the views opening up were a fair reward*



​I passed through "Bird Valley" - my own moniker for one stretch that was full of the sound of birds. It was fabulous to hear all the chattering and singing. Earlier I'd passed birds imitating car alarms and the alarms for trucks reversing! Very pleasant cycling.

*I was especially intrigued by that peek at the valley behind*



​Another sound today was water. It was almost ever present whether as a raging río, a whooshing waterfall or countless roadside rapids. There was a fury to the water today, like it didn't want to be here, was angry, in fact, and in a fierce rush to get somewhere else. The water alongside the road, in particular, whether in man made canals or self made rivers was flowing at a tremendous rate. Too fast to tinkle and sing it growled instead.

*Fabulous! *



​Pulled up for a photo I heard a low rumble, deep, large and somewhere to my right from up high. As it continued and increased in volume my brain scrambled to put a label on it. I could see nothing, a tall, steep mountain covered in vegetation the only thing to my right. As it grew ever louder, ever more chaotic my blood chilled when the word landslide popped into my head. I looked around frantically but could see no disturbance. I tried to zero in on a location - it seemed to be in front and to the right. There was a "flight or fight" response, more of a flight response really - but which direction? Behind me seemed the logical place but that was steeply uphill - I'd be making no progress. I stood my ground.
In all, I reckon it lasted about 15 seconds, perhaps a bit more. Then the rumbling faded away. I saw nothing. No trees swaying, no signs of disturbance. Perhaps it was on the other side of the mountain? I racked my brain for any other possibilities and came up with nothing.

*My "landslide" was somewhere around here*



​Another slightly ominous sight was Farc graffiti on roadsigns. Towns often have memorials to the victims of the violence, especially the Police and military victims, usually accompanied by exhortations not to revert to violence to solve disagreements. There's normally a reminder that the future is up to everyone to create. Unfortunately, all is not good on that subject and a mix of criminality, ideology and different interpretations on the peace agreements have lead to rising tensions.

*Sweeping and bouncing down to such a sharp bend was fun! The reality is that descents are not much faster than the ascents*



​I continued on.

I came to the physically small roadside village of Pacarni but it struck me as having a huge heart. Simple murals on the walls depicted some of the history of the area. I found it absolutely charming!

*There's no getting bored in this part of the world!*



​I headed on again and somewhere along the line the road became a road! And a downhill one at that! I could fly along!

*Rural Colombia. It's not an easy life!*



​Coming to the small town of Tesalia I pulled up at the Plaza and after chatting to a couple of friendly school kids decided that this would be home for the night. The first Hospedaje I tried was full but they suggested another around the corner. I was home!

*That ridge got closer and closer and I followed it all the way to Tesalia*







*The road to Tesalia. I could have been disappointed but it was downhill most of the way*



​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Nov 2021)

Day 802, Tuesday, November 23, 2021, Yaguará to Tesalia 48 km Total KM 14275
Min meters 556, Max Meters 1160
Total Climb 1240 Total Descent 991
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 27

The Towns of the day

Something a little different.....

Tesalia became kid's town in my mind. Approached by two young fellas, maybe 10, 11 years old, in the Plaza it was easy to have a chat. Kids have a natural curiousity and few boundaries and once we've hammered out that they need to speak a little slower it was an enjoyable experience to answer their questions.

*The Church in Iquira



*​I had a shower in one of the more compact situations I've witnessed - a narrow cubicle with a toilet against the wall and a spout from the ceiling. I had to precariously balance my dry clothes on the cistern and hope they didn't fall down - no lid! Mountain water is cold!

*The AbSoLuteLy FABulous tree in the Plaza in Iquira



*​
Sufficiently revived I went out for coffee having failed to have one at the Plaza.

*A rather moralistic mural in Iquira. 



*​It was surprisingly difficult there being no sellers in the Plaza! A place named Pizza and Coffee had no coffee! Starving, I bought a cold drink and a deepfried pastry with just about everything in it - banana, meat, chicken, pineapple, rice - and ate in the Plaza.

*A delightful mural from the physically small but emotionally huge village of Pacarni*



​Then the rain started so I took shelter under a tree. When that abated I went awandering.

*Guess!*



​Everyone seemed to have a destination and was busy. There were few old people out and about and next to no-one in the Plaza. Other than a few streets with all the usual types of stores there was little to see - if I discounted the mountains looming over the little town.

*Looming mountains, magic light and the spire of the church. The spire was the best part of a dull, dour church*



​Still hungry I'd been keeping my eyes open for a place to eat and could find nothing. I chanced upon a Chinese restaurant but it was so depressing, bare walls, plastic chairs, no customers I couldn't enjoy eating there. A couple of huge, outdoor restaurants with US style names and themes gave me the willies.

*Tesalia street art. Bright and cheerful ..... But nothing compared to what's coming*



​Instead, I bought a potato cake from a street vendor and ate it while wandering up the town then had another deep fried pastry with everything.

*A mural depicting a local kid done good.....*



​Then back to my simple hospedaje to update this on surprisingly decent, if slow, wifi. A slight embarassing situation when I couldn't remember which room was mine!

*This put such a big smile on my loony head for so long I actually started to ache. Local musicians, captured in paint with their instruments and named underneath. Like the "Local Heroes" of a couple of weeks ago I think that this is so, so positive and speaks to a place with a really good and healthy mindset. I love it!



*​The next morning I had a long chat with the son of the house, a confident ten year old - well, confident in everything except English! Too many words according to him! 

*A cannibal! Yep! This area was the base for a ferocious tribe of cannibals. When the Spanish came they were eaten, again and again! It was only when they were finally subdued that the Spanish could have proper control.
It seems that the town changed its name to Tesalia to lose the connection to the cannibalism but now, in an attempt to attract tourists they're trying to revive it - they're just not quite sure how to do it!*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Nov 2021)

Day 803, Wednesday, November 24, 2021, Tesalia to La Plata 31 km Total KM 14306
Min meters 806, Max Meters 1019
Total Climb 439 Total Descent 263
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 27

The Third Way

If you ever tire of the humdrum of normal life, feel that you're insignificant and that life consists of just going through a series of numbing, repetitive motions then I have a cure! Come to small town Colombia! Hop on a loaded bike and roll into town. It's important to pack one thing - a smile. People will stare curiously, some will smile back shyly, the motorbikers will wave and when you pull up at the little Plaza an old man will give you a coffee that you have to fight to pay for. For the people around you'll become the centre of their conversations. They'll speculate where you're from, where you're going - not in any way disrespectfully, just curiously. They'll comment on snippets they can glean from your conversation with another. They'll watch you wander over to the church and perhaps slyly approach the bike for a better look. In most places that's a cause for concern. Not here. Away from the bike looking up this street and down that one you'll hear "that's him, the guy on the bike". You're a celebrity! In a far off country, in a little town, in the middle of nowhere (a beautiful, mountainy nowhere). It feels pretty good!

*Not the most auspicious of mornings!*



​It's been like that the last few days in these parts, most notable in the smaller places. Back in Yaguará the other evening a group of teenagers started chatting about me as I wandered the Plaza. They seemed to be cleaning up, a mix of boys and girls. I was a gringo, it was decided. They were bemused by my taking photos of the Plaza - to them it was normal and boring. When I finally interrupted their speculations to tell them I was Irish I got squeals of embarassment. We had a quick chat but multiple conversations are exhausting for me so I left them wanting more.

*A lovely tree canopy had me forgetting about the sky!*



​So, there was more torrential rain last night. And again this morning. I aborted my departure three times because if the rain but had a lovely chat with the ten year old son of the house.

Coffeed up but lacking breakfast I set off in the rain. I'd given up waiting for it to stop. It wasn't too heavy. My first stop was only about 7km up the road where I planned to have breakfast. Paicol required turning off the road and going up a hill - a good thing I was hungry or I may have skipped it. I turned off and slowly climbed into the little village. And that's where the magic outlined above happened. Time after time after time in Colombia I feel so comfortable in these foreign towns. Ah, they're not really foreign any more.
I did a lap of the Plaza, ogled the church (320 years old, I was proudly told) and as I was parking the bike close to a coffee vendor he was over with a tinto in his hand for me. He didn't want any pesos - I was welcome to his town. We had a short chat but then he left me alone to my own devices. The money I left on his stand ignored. Ditto with my second coffee.

*Today's río still fast, still pretty furious*



​The Plaza filled with trees, plants and seats called out to me so I sat and ate a couple of pastries bought from a baker on the corner. The two old boys on the seat opposite talked about me. There was a calmness in the air despite a steady stream of traffic flowing past. I could so easily have stayed.
The church doors opened so I went to explore and then leaving the bike where it was took a little wander around. Very relaxing, very pleasant. Delightful in fact!

They had a sign up with a QR code with tourist info about the town if you want to visit: http://www.paicol-huila.gov.co/tema/turismo

A few soft showers had me in no rush to get back on the road. In fact, the rain was bothering me. Down the road was La Plata, a biggish town and after that I had a choice - another high climbing backroad for two or three days or a better main road. My heart said backroad, my head the good one. Two nights torrential rain, more rain both mornings my head was looking like the right option.
Then I saw the third way; Down to La Plata and stop. Make up my mind tomorrow!

More time in Paicol! I have only a handful of photos because it's not what's to be seen in these places that's important - it's what's to be felt.
Comfortable. Welcome.

*Back on the road and it wasn't a bad one at all!*



​Interestingly, the way I am being addressed has changed. Up north people called out "Amigo" - friend or mate. In a shop I may be referred to as "Caballero" (Gentleman) or Señor (Sir/Mister). Of late, people reger to me as vecino (neighbour). I'm taking that to mean that I'm different, but welcome.

*The sun playing with the clouds and mountains*



​Something else that has changed subtlely from further north is the music. I noted leaving the desert that the first town had houses pumping out music. That has continued and a few shops do too. Loud, but not too loud. And traditional - my kind of music.

Finally, the towns and villages have more trees. I've found trees in towns to be very interesting in their own right and also calming. With the music and trees I'm reminded a lot of México. That not a bad thing!

*When the trees let me peek the sky still looked scary!*



​When I had finally soaked up all that Paicol had to offer I pulled in my roots, said goodbye to my coffee man and rolled out of town.

I had a good, quiet road and a whole lot of tree cover to keep me amused with some interesting and at times, scary, skyscapes.
I passed a fabulous channel cut out of a cliff by roaring water and struggled to get a good shot and cycled happily along up and down rolling hills.

*Where's Roccado?*



​Like yesterday there was a lot of furious water, mainly ríos today, soon added to by more rain. Rainjacket on I sweated up the hills and was grateful for the jacket on the descents.

*I like the definition of these mountains



*​The landscape was sometimes open with intriguing mountains or closed off behind trees. With about 7km to go the sun started to dominate and the rainjacket was ditched.

*The really, really furious river at La Plata



*​La Plata has spread across the river so I crossed the bridge (and a very angry río!) and headed to the Plaza. A delightful place it was all action. A University seemed to be haaving a recruitment day and there were tents set up to offer people free legal advice. A bright, colourful church dominated and guys were busy in the Plaza putting up Christmas decorations. A lap of the Plaza and I stopped for my coffee. It wasn't long before I was approached for a chat. It really is great!

iOverlander had a hotel but it was out of town and I preferred to stay close. Close to the river were some cheap Hospedajes so I pulled in and got myself a cheap room. A cold (mountain water brrrrrrr!) shower and out I went to explore. It's great arriving early and not exhausted!

The town's a bit rough'n'ready but pleasant. And busy. Away from the Plaza equally sized streets are thronged with people and shops. On one street a line of horses and carts waiting to carry people or goods. The jeeps, so common in the coffee areas, have disappeared from the roads. A loss in the colour of the road.

*Arriving in to La Plata. Those mountains are right behind and dominate the town. The booze ad on top of the building is blocking the view of the spire of the church*



​I grabbed a small bite to eat then retired to the Plaza. Just to people watch and write up some notes. Pleasantly warm and dry it's a very nice way to pass the late afternoon.

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Nov 2021)

Day 803, Wednesday, November 24, 2021, Tesalia to La Plata 31 km Total KM 14306
Min meters 806, Max Meters 1019
Total Climb 439 Total Descent 263
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 27

The Third Way Part Two

The Towns along the way

*The wonderful, wonderful church (320 years old I was proudly informed!) in Paicol*
_*








The Plaza. I left my bike there and went awandering without a care in the world






I spent so long there that they opened the church*_
*







A typical street*
_*







A statue celebrating a native dance in La Plata. They had the "wavy" tiles on the ground here too! 







The mountains are practically a part of the town! *_
*







Horses and carts outside the market*
_*








Peace has the face of a woman (I think!) 







Arty farty shot of the church (may be a Cathedral!)*_
*







The Plaza*
_*



*_

​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Nov 2021)

Day 804, Thursday, November 25, 2021, La Plata to Garzón 56 km Total KM 14362
Min meters 740, Max Meters 1743
Total Climb 969 Total Descent 1157
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

Wussing out!

A decent night's sleep and I woke up not too long after 4am. I was fired up! With an early departure I could make a good stab at going the backroads instead of the main road. I got dressed and went outside not bothered about the "rushing" noise I was hearing - that'd just be the river.
Ha! Dumbass!
It was rain. Pounding down. Time to think again.
It gets bright about 5am so I decided to wait. Still raining at 5 and still at 6. Not light rain either. At that point I opted for the main road. Google was showing me landslide warnings and while today would be a toughie on the backroads, tomorrow would be worse.

*With rain falling, mist shrouding the views and a steep climb from the get go it could have been a miserable old morning but Mother Nature supplied me with lots of interesting trees that had interesting things growing on them*



​Then it was just a case of waiting out the rain. I wandered out for some breakfast, a disappointing "huevos rancheros". If that was served in México the Mexicans would be donning their pistol belts and starting a revolution!
Wanting another coffee I wandered over to the Plaza and experienced a little sample of what I like so much about this place.

I spied some flasks sitting on a low wall but with no-one around. The "proprietor", an older lady, had been chatting with a neighbour and instantly stepped over to take care of my coffee needs. Decked out in a transparent, pink rainjacket she had a smile that cut through the gloom of a wet, murky morning in a way that would make the sun jealous.

*A few kms in I came across this ferocious waterfall. The water was travelling at a huge pace, the noise was shattering and the force very, very impressive *



​It's quite interesting. My breakfast was served by a young woman that would tick off pretty much all the boxes on a list of conventional beauty. She had it all. But her face would turn milk. Not fifty yards away, working in the rain, bedraggled and wet, with a few more decades under her belt a beaming smile knocked the young one out of the park.

I wandered off, coffee in hand just enjoying the park and then sat down on a bench. My raincoat, a gift, (thanks Big Fella) is several sizes too big for me having been worn by a giant of a man in the Durch army but in these situations works great - I can sit on it!
Spying me sitting down my coffee lady zooms along the 15 meters or so to me with something - a strip of cardboard wrapped in a plastic bag to put under my ass!
I watched moments later when an old man also got a coffee and perched himself on the low wall - her homemade waterproofers fit the wall perfectly.
I was sitting there watching this lady go about her work, a smile for everyone, a quick chat with most and found myself wondering just how she can be so happy and cheerful.
Coffee finished she came back to me for the empty cup (unusually, there are no bins in the park) but I wanted another.
I was her last customer because a young man showed up, presumably her son, and she packed her flasks into two big shopping bags, two more large ones were placed over each shoulder before climbing onto the back of a motorbike to be brought home. A big smile and a wave to the stranger in the park before she left.

*That's my road down there!*



​The rain in the mornings seems to be following an erratic pattern. Rain. Stop. Rain some more.
The problem is that the rain can be relatively light or very, very heavy. When it does eventually stop it stops for good. But which "stop" is the last one?

*As always the variety of the vegetation is mind boggling*



​I got fed up waiting so headed over the bridge and up. There was light rain and I had my jacket on but my legs were bare. Once over the bridge the climbing started. I'd have more than 700 meters climbed before it levelled off.

*Rounding a bend my first sight of coffee in a while. I love my Palm trees, I really like the clusters of bamboo trees, I'm intrigued and inspired by the mossy trees but coffee plants just make me excited! I must be a real addict!*



​It didn't take long for me to start to overheat so I pulled in and removed the jacket. Still raining lightly though.

*The road might be crap, the weather could be kinder but this is still a good day's exploring!*



​Up and up and up I went. My views were limited by mist that was always on the move and low clouds that hovered in front of the mountains. However, Mother Nature laid on a fabulous selection of trees for me to enjoy along the road. Lots and lots with moss growing all over them. Trees with atmosphere!

*Coffee country!*



​Bird sounds are becoming more varied. Car alarms and trucks reversing were heard today several times and once, I'm pretty sure, R2D2 was somewhere in the trees!

*Roccado in the clouds!





Passing through a few houses these were painted on the walls of the football/basketball court *





​To be continued.....


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

Edited to correct silly spelling error (and Mod Edited to correct the link )


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Nov 2021)

Day 804, Thursday, November 25, 2021, La Plata to Garzón 56 km Total KM 14362
Min meters 740, Max Meters 1743
Total Climb 969 Total Descent 1157
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

Wussing out! Part Two

The road though was variable. There were several different warning signs covering all the bases from subsidence to landslides. At one stage I stopped the bike and in front of me was a landslide, half the width of the road lost under mud and clay while behind me were a series of rocks from the cliff beside the road.
At least the road had a surface - most of the time. It could disappear randomly for anything from ten to several hundred meters.
This was not a road for the feckless bike tourist!

*Today's río....... is in the road *



​But it was pretty, and quiet, and friendly. Most of the traffic was motorbikes then a few cars, the odd truck and after noting their absence jeeps were back! Slightly different models and brands but doing the same work. The rain stayed, usually light, but sometimes a bit harder.






I must be a real coffee addict because as I climbed coffee became more abundant and my spirits soared. I don't know what it is, but there's something about seeing coffee in the wild that excites me.

*Never a dull moment! I wasn't looking forward to the descent and found myself wondering what this road must be like at night*



​Near the top of the climb I started to feel hungry and started looking for a place to pull in to eat. There would be no places to eat until well on the other side of the climb. I found a spot and pulled in. Lunch was the last of my peanut butter on tortillas with some arequipa added to soften up the butter. Arequipa is very sweet and I didn't know how well it would go down - surprisingly well in fact!

*There's nearly always a splash of colour*



​Once I'd reached the top the road levelled off and the surface disappeared. I bounced and splashed along slowly hoping for the surface to reappear - I'd a steep descent coming up and I didn't want to do it like this! I'd wrapped up before setting off and even though Gizmo read 19/20C it felt cold.

*The mighty Magdalena, the calmest and most serene that I've seen her. A huge floodplain stretched out from the river and the bridge was more than twice as wide as the river today*



​Then the road dropped away and the surface stayed away. Oh dear!
Great fun though!
The water is incredibly destructive and add in rockfalls and landslides trying to keep on top of maintenance must be a lot of work.

I passed through a little settlement spread along the dirt road, the bright houses and flowers a strong contrast to the muddy road. Then, out of nowhere the surface came back and I could start to make some serious progress. Carefully!




​I arrived into the small town of Pital - two churches, two small untidy plazas - and went looking for coffee. I was feeling a chill. Coffeed up I set off again and got sidetracked a few minutes later in the town of El Agrado. I nearly had another coffee but decided to push on.

*That ridge of mountains was captivating and I was running parallel to them for a long time*



​The descent finished here which was just as well because the surface went to pot. Parts were totally gone which meant I had to weave over and back - traffic permitting. Rolling hills added to the fun!

The highlight of this stretch was another crossing of the mighty Magdalena on an incredibly long bridge. Then uphill into the town of Garzón. I'd had an idea to head south from Garzón to a town and get a head start on tomorrow but when I looked at the elevation profile and the time I decided to be lazy.

*Roccado, Río Magdalena and cloudy mountains. *



​I headed to the Plaza, stopped for my customary photo at the town sign and was about to grab a coffee when I was accosted by a pleasant young fella for a chat and a photo. He makes videos on Facebook and started showing me. I was polite but after ten minutes I made my excuses and rolled over to a coffee lady. I got my coffee but another customer paid for it. He had no interest in having a chat just wanted to welcome me to the town!

I sat and enjoyed my coffee and the hustle and bustle going on all around me then rolled back to an "hostelería" I'd spotted. Booking was ridiculously expensive. An old, old man looked me up and down before letting me in, took an age to check me in and then when formalities were out of the way became a fine conversationalist. I wanted to get out and explore but instead found myself having a lovely chat.

*All in all not a bad day's exploring*



​When I did get out I found that there wasn't much more to see than I had already seen!
I'd a bite to eat, another wander and then back to update this.

To be continued....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098

Edited to correct silly spelling error (and Mod Edited to correct the link )


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Nov 2021)

Day 804, Thursday, November 25, 2021, La Plata to Garzón 56 km Total KM 14362
Min meters 740, Max Meters 1743
Total Climb 969 Total Descent 1157
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 22

Wussing out! The Towns along the way

*The two churches in Pital*
_*










Street art in Pital. "We who go, go with the hands of God"*_
*







Do I need to?*
_*






I fell a little in love in Agrado. While I don't consider myself religious I do think that Christmas is a real holiday for kids. Unfortunately, it seems to be little more than a commercial experience and there's little left of the origins of the holiday. 
At home in Ireland I'll attend Christmas Mass (a great way to see everyone!) and am usually bitterly disappointed at the inability of the priest to connect with the children.
Then I saw these child friendly "statues" in the Plaza - these are presumably Mary with the Baby Jesus on the donkey and Joseph. I was smitten. 
I've no personal interest in spreading the story but respect those that do and I think these are just fabulous for connecting with kids. Of all ages.



*_



*The church in Agrado








Guess!*
_*








More of these guys!!! This is one of the three wise men, the Magi. The other two are elsewhere in the Plaza heading towards the church. Delightful!







All the Plazas are being decorated for Christmas, typically quite simply. *_
*



*
​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Nov 2021)

Day 805, Friday, November 26, 2021, Garzón to Timaná 54 km Total KM 14416
Min meters 736, Max Meters 1055
Total Climb 878 Total Descent 691
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 30

The last days of the Magdalena

My lodgings last night were simple but comfy in a Colonial era building. Like a Roman villa a rectangular living area enclosed a very pleasant, and quiet garden. That's where I got to update this before retiring. One of the nicest places to do so.

I woke up at three, then four then half slumbered, half dreamed until 6am. I got up, packed up and rolled back up to the Plaza for a coffee. No rain!
I wasn't on form at all.
I had my coffee, a chat with the coffee lady who wanted to know where I'd be spending Christmas and the New Year (I have no idea!) and set off out of town.

*Once out of town the day settled down remarkably quickly - a decent road, decent scenery but quite a bit of traffic.*



​These busy little towns are great for getting the adrenaline pumping! If it's not the hills it's all the motorbikes weaving and swirling around. Soon I was out in decent countryside with the sun rising in power. It had rained during the night but the morning had been rain free and judging by the sky today was going to be a scorcher. Had I taken the more adventurous route I'd have had the perfect day!

*A tributary to the mighty Magdalena. Looking pretty small in comparison to what it can be!*



​Distracted by a church spire I detoured to the small village of Jagua. It was almost the picture perfect little village! On my maps it looked like nothing but in the flesh it was very pretty, if quiet. I visited the Plaza and then had to hunt out a coffee and a slice of cake - it was all they had. I hadn't felt like eating in Garzón and a stiff climb had corrected that state of affairs!

*Lots of mountains with lots of detail*



​I set off again still in a ho-hum mood. The road was decent, the traffic heavier than I've had for a while but typically bunched, the views were pleasant and there were lots of interesting trees. I've just been spoiled really. A perfectly good touring road was just ho-hum. Ho-hum with a lot of hills!

Hitting the roadside town of Altamira I pulled in for a decent breakfast and a rest. I could have pushed myself yesterday and spent the night here - I wasn't disappointed - other than a few shops selling artesan products there wasn't much here. Coming up to noon and the sun was getting hot!

*A sudden drop in standards! A comfortable shoulder becomes very rough and the road narrows. With regular waves of traffic I find the easiest thing to do is just pull in, let it pass then resume*




​I set off again and still wasn't right. For a short while I was travelling along but well above the Magdalena. Its source isn't too far away actually, over in the mountains to the west. Rolling hills gave way to a white knuckle descent which led into a long, slow and hot climb again.

*The Magdalena from up high



*​I mentioned the new bird sounds recently. Well today, at times, it seemed like I was riding through a high crime city! I could hear alarms everywhere! At first it was strange since to date there's only been one or two but today there were multitudes and it rapidly became annoying. There was regular birdsong too, but it was swamped by the "alarm birds".

*Look closely - a tree and a cactus embracing! There's inspiration in a troubled and divided world! *



​Spying a stall set up outside a house I pulled in to buy a couple of bananas. A wonderfully pleasant young woman came out, toddler in tow, commanding two yappy dogs to be quiet. She handed me three bananas when I asked for two and would take no money. At all. Her freckled (yes! freckles!) face beamed at me and after I'd popped them in my handlebar bag gave me two more. She wanted to give me more, all without charge, but I had no more room! Even that wonderfully pleasant experience wasn't lifting my spirits to where they normally are.

*The Magdalena flowing to the sea......



*​Dogs have been more of an issue the last couple of days. The more dangerous ones are tied up but the loose ones are barkers and chasers. Most are cowards that will hightail it away if I stop. A few are actually quite friendly and will trot over tail wagging if I stop. Jumping up is common. Not a problem today on a good, dry road, messy yesterday in the mud.
Yesterday, or the day before, a jack russel was a part of a posse of dogs who set off after me. One in particular was snarling, teeth bared but ran away as soon as I stopped. The smallest of the pack the Jack Russel had a smiley face and wagging tail but seemed bound by peer pressure not to get too close. Snarly kept giving chase until I stopped then ran back only to resume when I moved on again. That wears out my patience and I tend to swear at the feckers who do this!
Today, a big dog on a chain took off after me and I got a fright when the chain went with him! The chain wasn't fixed to anything solid but to a steel cable giving the dog the full run of the front of the building. He couldn't get to me but it took a few frantic heartbeats to figure that out!
Earlier in Jagua while wandering in search of a coffee I set five dogs of various sizes into a barking frenzy. In such a small, quiet place it was one hell of a racket! When I got my coffee and sat down most of them came over to make friends. Back on the bike? It started all over again!

*Looking towards the source of this great river and we can see how she's carved her own way through the landscape*



​I came to the small town of Timaná and pulled off into the pleasant Plaza. The one coffee stall was unmanned but spotting a decent sized supermarket I popped in and found more peanut butter! Score! A different brand so hopefully less oily. I also bought a coke and some crisps and picnicked in the Plaza. I'd 20 odd km to go to the next town and that would be bigger so on a whim decided to stay. I tracked down a pleasant place to stay and checked in. Small town Colombia will restore my spirits!

*The descent was ...... Fun! Fast but I never know what's around a bend. That drain has its full cover bit I've seen them uncovered or half covered. Never a dull moment!*



​After my shower I toddled back to the Plaza for my coffee and was entranced watching a grown man play hide and seek with his white poodle. Standing on a raised area (too high for the pooch to climb) he was hiding behind a tallish stone. Poodle knew he was up there but couldn't see him, trotting around in a large circle, jumping up on benches for a better look, giving the occasional bark. This was clearly a well practiced game and I could see no distress in the dog. After a little while a young girl lifted Poodle onto the raised area and master and dog were reunited.

*Back on rolling ground there are stretches of road that are just enchanting*



​Even after dark the town remained busy, especially with the motorbikes. Young fellas pulling wheelies around the Plaza impressing the young ones and scaring the bejaysus out of wandering bike travellers.


Other than the Plaza there was little to see so after a bite to eat I retired for the night.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (29 Nov 2021)

Day 805, Friday, November 26, 2021, Garzón to Timaná 54 km Total KM 14416
Min meters 736, Max Meters 1055
Total Climb 878 Total Descent 691
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 30

The last days of the Magdalena

The Towns along the way......


*Typical street in Jagua. The cobbles were brutal meaning the dogs had a great time! Note the two tone colour schemes of the houses*









*The church from the Plaza, Jagua*​_*







I am so loving these characters!! This can only be one of the Three Wise Women!







The church and a bit more of the Plaza. There was no-one around!*_
*



*



*Jagua - a bright, friendly, quiet village*
_*







Welcoming me to Timaná







Timaná's church







An impressive tree and an impressive lady, La Gaitana. You can read more here*_
*








And La Gaitana with the church*
_*







Inside the church. The influence of the dome is pretty clear*_
*



*
​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (30 Nov 2021)

Day 806, Saturday, November 27, 2021, Timaná to San Agustín 56 km Total KM 14472
Min meters 1040, Max Meters 1676
Total Climb 1051 Total Descent 411
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 46 Ave Temp 31

Up and up into the mountains

Ah for crying out loud! More feckin' rain this morning thwarted an early start again. I ate a breakfast of banana, peanut butter and tortillas with a cup of coffee from the hotel. The lady refused me sugar, telling me that her coffee was so good it didn't need sugar! It was good coffee but I need my energy! 

When it lightened I set off in my rain jacket. Straight away into a double digit gradient! That'll get me going! 

*Ahhh! Coffee country! I love it!! There's a wildness to it that speaks to me. Banana trees are common mixed in with the coffee plants. Apparently they offer a canopy of protection to the coffee plants. Other trees will work too. In any case after years of living in NL and tre neat ordered lines of fields and crops (you should see the tulip fields!) this is a welcome dose of chaos.



*​Being a Saturday traffic was heavier than usual. I've noticed a deterioration in driving standards at the weekend. One thing for certain there were a whole lot more motorbikes on the road than usual. 
There were other cyclists something I haven't seen in a while. With one exception none acknowledged me. 

My day was going to involve two biggish climbs of 400 meters each - one up front and one at the end. I'm not a fan of climbs at the end of the day. I'd no option but to hit my target, San Agustín, today since I'd made a reservation. Booking had nothing much last night but passing the rainy dawn I checked again - bingo - a bargain!

*No point in throwing up a load of dull, gloomy photos so here's the disappointing church in Potalito. There's a shop in the bottom of the tower! (Selling religious artefacts)*



​I was still feeling a bit off, a bit grumpy. As I cycled slowly up the hill I had a bit of a think. I'm a bit lonely is the problem. I'm spending too much time on my own. I can understand more in conversations, I think I can communicate better but that just seems to be highlighting the fact that after the conversation I'm back to just me for company. It'll pass, especially now that I know what the problem is. Mind you, leaving my fags behind me on a wall after stopping for a break didn't help my mood!

The rain eventually eased off but the sky remained cloudy, dark and misty with few views worth speaking of. The roadside though was another matter, filled, as it was with interesting trees and lots of coffee interspersed with mainly banana trees.

*The very busy Plaza in Potalito*



​I stopped at a roadside store for a cold drink and to replace the lost ciggies. The shopkeeper was all chat asking about my trip. He got that look in the eye that suggested he was imagining himself inserted in some of my stories. At one stage he said that he'd love to do something like that himself - forgetting, it seemed, the little girl beside him who called him papa!

First up after the climb was the town of Pitalito. On the level now the sun came out and everything started to look better and brighter.
Along the road were placed paintings, presumably by local artists. An interesting place to locate art, distracting to most traffic I'd have thought, but not so much for me.

*Roadside art. There was a lot in different styles with a sign identifying the artist. Interesting!



*​Pitalito was quite big and very, very busy. I travelled down a very busy street with small stores, street vendors, horses and carts and all the usual mayhem of these towns in full flow. There were also a lot of women strikingly dressed standing around in ones and twos and threes. Given the styles that can be worn here I could be completely off base but combined with the number of cheap hotels on the street I think they may well have been hookers. A strange place to solicit business and certainly not discreet but it was similar in CDMX. 

I found the Plaza, a busy riot of activity, had a coffee, noted the disappointing church and rolled back out of town, stopping for a pastry on the outskirts. Then back on the road to San Agustín. I didn't have the feeling that I was missing too much.

*Coffee country looks so much better in the sun!*



​The "flat" road that I had been expecting was steeply rolling but more importantly it was in a pretty atrocious condition, especially along the edges. A lot of traffic made life difficult and progress relatively slow. Bright sun and shade from the trees made for a perilous combination at times and my poor ass was taking a beating.

*Mi amiga, río Magdalena*



​Up high though I had some great views, the highlight riding beside but way above the mighty Magdalena. The problem was that I swept down to cross it and faced into another 400 meter climb in the hot sun! Thankfully, most of the heavier traffic turned off to cross the mountains leaving me to contend with packs of motorbikes and the odd impatient SUV.

*A surprisingly loud waterfall given the distance. The water fell in waves, falling free for a long distance before hitting a hard part of rock, jumping out then falling again. *



​It was tough but immensely enjoyable, traffic, especially motorbikes, being the only negative. Ascending slowly the poor surface was less of an issue. Turning back on itself several times the road offered wonderful views of coffee country - it looks so much better in bright sunshine! 
Some of the gradients were double digits and a bit too long for comfort. Thankfully, as I rose the gradients reduced. 

*Magdalena carving her way through the valley*



​Often there was little between me and a sheer drop to the valley below except a low kerb. The kind of low kerb that a tired cyclist might wobble in to. The bike would stop but the cyclist? He'd be flying! 

*A looooooooong way down! *



​My arrival to San Agustín was in a wave of motorbikes. I passed a little park being decorated for Christmas, detoured to a church with an unusual sculpture in front then rolled up to the small, compact but busy plaza. A potato cake slathered with butter and salt and a coffee got me settled in my new home.

*It is pretty impressive country to be biking through!*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (4 Dec 2021)

Day 807-8, Sunday/Monday, November 28/9, 2021, San Agustín 


The hostel/hotel is very pleasant if quite empty. 
I'd a cold shower (mountain water is cold!!), chatted to Jay from South Dakota here on a motorbike. He flew into Bogotá with his bike, is touring Colombia then going to fly to Chile and try to get into Argentina. He presumed I was on a motorbike too. He wasn't quite sure how to react when I pointed out Roccado!

*Literal street art in San Agustín



*​And here we go again! Covid is kicking off ....... again! Borders closing, countries blacklisted, quarantine kicking in again. 
It's infuriating really. The rich parts of the world are rolling out booster shots when huge portions of the poorer world have minimal levels of vaccination at all. A mutation in the virus is hardly a surprise under the circumstances. 

Sometimes I think the human race is so dumb that we deserve to be wiped out.

*Lots of conventional street art too



*​I inadvertently joined an anti-vax group on Facebook when this first started thinking it was a group for sharing info on rules in different countries. It's full of nutters! Absolute nutters! I've stayed a member because it is really, really interesting to see attitudes that are so, so different to my own. This new variant has inspired a whole new crop of nutters.

*A statue of Christ with the broken teeth!*



​Similarly, a Mexican traveller's group I'm a member of (mainly for RVs) is full of angry, anti-Mexican rants because the Mexican immigration folks are upping their game* and not automatically giving people 180 days on entry.
A lot of people have been living here for years, crossing a border every six months and getting another six months on re-entry. 




​*This is relevant to bike tourists too! I would expect the system to be flexible for bike tourists but it may mean having to apply to extend the permitted time en route.

*I just ❤ these figures!! And Santa is very tanned!*



​I took a wander around the town as darkness fell - there's really not much to it - and had a bite to eat. I was feeling very, very tired so had an early night.

*The "main" church from the small and compact Plaza*



​Sunday would be the day for visiting the pre hispanic statues that this town is famous for. At least that was the plan!
A terrible night's sleep brought on by really bad leg cramps left me exhausted in the morning. 
I wandered out for a coffee then back to lie down for a while. Finally I psyched myself up to visit the park 3km away but faded at the packed Plaza. A little people watching instead. It was sunny, very hot and I could summon no motivation to do much more.

*Yep! More art! The cat is on a garage door and the circle is a mosaic as taller than me*



​San Agustín may be a renowned tourist town and there is much evidence around for that; interesting murals, a town sign in the style of the statues the area is famous for, lots of hotels and "Tourist Information" signs (in reality tour operators), the consistent colour schemes and signage of the buildings but it is also a lively town in its own right and that was what was on display on a Sunday in the overcrowded Plaza.

*A store. The green and white colour scheme is standard for the town, the painted kerbs common too. They really brighten up the place*



​For (Covid) safety's sake I took a seat on the terrace of an empty café and watched. 
*Guess!*



​Compact is the word that keeps coming to mind. It's not a big Plaza, squeezed in front of the church, the usual stalls on one side, traffic on another and two quieter streets finishing off the rectangle. And it is packed! Families sitting, eating, vendors selling their wares, a small band starts up and people start dancing. 
It wasn't all peace and quiet though. A disagreement between three street vendors/musicians turned a tad nasty until the troublemaker was driven away.
Unusually for a Sunday there was a wedding in the church. A simple affair the bride left on the back of a motorbike! I'm hoping the driver was the groom! 

*There was a lot of art!*



​I wandered around some more, down to the first little park that I had passed on my way in. It was decorated too, but quiet. Only a handful of people although all the food places between the two seemed to be full. Sunday seems to be the day of families eating together.


To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 807-8, Sunday/Monday, November 28/9, 2021, San Agustín

Part Two

I found a place looking out on the Plaza and had a traditional dish lingering for as long as I could. As darkness started to fall I wandered back to my accommodation and took advantage of a hammock and decent wifi to do a bit of research. The Trampoline of Death is coming up soon! The last thing on my list of things I want to "do" (excluding Argentina!). The closer it gets the more nervous I'm becoming. It's a well named road and I'm not exactly doing it at the best time of the year! The weather recently certainly hasn't been kind. Not only will poor weather make it trickier it will also steal the views! I spent a bit of time noting the places to sleep.
Once that is over I'll be turning north again and heading back up by a different route. 
Ironically, the latest news is that the border to Ecuador is due to open December 1. There's no word, however, on the Ecuador/Peru border which is still closed. 

*Dumbass goes to an archaeological wonder and is captivated by ...... Flowers*



​Awake at 4am I decided to give myself another day and actually visit the archaeological park. I'd at least try to be a good tourist! I'd asked yesterday and been told it was open. 

*This Is the "Lavapatas" a brutally difficult thing to photograph. Apparently it was both aesthetic and practical. As well as being a place to wash it was made with canals, the water forming shapes and other shapes formed by carving on the stones. There is some reflection from the roof above visible, unfortunately. My poor photographic skills do not do this justice.
Best of all there is a café beside it where I had a coffee, a ball of pure chocolate (WoW!!) and a lovely chat with a very bored lady. *



​I wandered out for breakfast about 7, got caught in rain, returned to rebook my room - it's reserved so I had to move to another (sans hammock!). I got a bit of a shock when the young fella "forgot" that I'd paid him on Saturday when I arrived and wanted paying again! That was sorted pretty sharpish! 
Interestingly, I'd an email from Booking about my stay in Neiva. The hotel claimed I didn't show up! 
Booking (and the likes) are great for being able to pay (securely) with credit card. However, here in Colombia, nearly every place wants payment in cash on arrival. And a receipt?

*A statue under cover to protect from the elements*



​I walked out the few kms to the park, adopting my touring head and taking a detour. I learned just how slippy those water gullies are at the side of the road when I fell down and got coated in mud! Oh well! Now I look like a backpacker! 

*More pretty flowery thingys*



​On arrival, I thought the Park was closed it was so quiet, but no, it was open. A quick scan of the guestbook revealed some Australians, Belgians and French visitors ahead of me. A wonderful touch was a "Passport" given to me which I'd get stamped in the park and be able to take notes. I thought it was a fabulous idea!

*At the highest point (up a bazillion steps!)*



​In the Park itself a friendly security guard stamped my passport and pointed me in the right direction (important for me!) and I set off.

Basically, there are a few restored burial grounds scattered around with graves and statues dating from both BC and AD. (Apparently BC and AD are not used anymore! I never got that memo). 

*A frog!*



​It's a lovely walk and there's an information board with basic Spanish information. I'd declined the services of a guide and spying a young woman one on one with her guide I was not sorry. She looked drained.

I was struck by the similarity of some of the graves to Irish Dolmens - and was only half surprised to overhear a guide refer to them as such. It's amazing - on opposite sides of the world people marked death in strikingly similar ways.

*A burial chamber from above*



​There's a lot of pleasant walking between each "exhibit" and it gives a lot of time to think especially if on your own. It's interesting to me that all of the displays here that have survived are to mark death. Presumably there was a pretty big and well established colony of people here. There are no houses, no temples, no workshops or stores. Elsewhere there are more statues but the tombs have been a boon for anthropologists who can deduce so much from so little. 

Huge amounts of work went into these. Those stones are not light! The carving of the statues have survived two millennia in a place not exactly hospitable to things left out in the elements. 

*Perhaps guards for the dead? I might know more had I paid for a guide but I much, much prefer to wander myself*



​After the park I headed back to town intending to cycle out one last time to see the Magdalena before she disappears for good. (I'll see her again when I leave San Agustín but on the same road I travelled in). Unfortunately, the rain put the kibosh on that. I had a coffee to wait it out but the rain won! 

*Smiley face!*



​A quiet night was had. And at midnight I turned 49.

*This poor, ugly chap was on his own in a corner. He became my favourite.



*​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 809, Tuesday, November 30, 2021, San Agustín to San Juan de Villalobos 90 km Total KM 14562
Min meters 1222, Max Meters 2252
Total Climb 1419 Total Descent 1640
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 21

You just had to be here! 

One of my great pleasures at the end of the day is to transfer photos from my camera to my phone and then relive the day.
Not today.
Today, nothing, it seems, that I wanted to capture actually got captured the way I wanted. 
Sometimes you just have to be here!

*I find these scenes so interesting. Banana trees, coffee plants on ridiculously steep hills all tended by hand. It's a tough life in these parts*



​Up at 6am I could hear the rain falling. It's not that I'm a wuss (well, a bit of a one), or that I particularly dislike riding in the rain (I don't) it was that today was starting out with a longish descent. In that rain I'd freeze! Instead I went out for coffee the quest for which could form the plot of an epic novel. 

*Lots of ríos today. This one was whispering urgently to me*



​I returned and headed out into hardly any rain.
I had to double back almost to Pitalito but on such a beautiful road it shouldn't be a chore, right?
Wrong! 
Going down at speed was very different to going up slowly on this surface! Cracks, bumps and random potholes made for a distracting and slightly frustrating descent. If the frustration got too much I simply stopped and let the views work their magic. A few climbs amongst the descents kept me warm and didn't seem much slower than the descending!

*Coffee! Within touching distance! Nearly as good as a cup of the stuff!*



​About 5km from Pitalito I was going to rejoin 45 so pulled in for a coffee and an empanada. Anyone who knows me in the real world should sit down for the next sentence. I'm getting very fed up of greasy, fried food!

*More coffee! *



​From now on it was all uphill. I reckoned about 1000m. Once over the top I had a longish descent to a roadside village which looked like the only accommodation option.

*Getting wet!*



​Thankfully, grades were very gentle (but they'd get steeper closer to the top) which took some of the sting out of the road. At times it was good with a decent, if narrow, shoulder, and at other times it was badly broken up, rough and with a shoulder full of crap. I settled in, resigned for a day on a road-to-get-me-to-somewhere-else.

*Bruselas*



​Seeing a sign for Brussels (Bruselas) sure I just had to turn off! I'm a big fan of Belgium, it's beer, food and general sense of mild chaos after the order of the Dutch.
In truth, Bruselas was a potential overnight stop if I was feeling lazy. It was my birthday after all!

A nice little town, a disappointingly open Plaza but with interesting artwork it was busy and nothing really called out to me. The road-to-get-me-to-somewhere-else would be waiting for me tomorrow. I rolled out of town, crossed the bridge and rejoined 45.

*I have been trying and trying to capture one of these trees to show off their colour. This is the best I can do*



​It took me a few minutes to notice that something had changed. Traffic seemed to have died a death. The road seemed narrower and all of a sudden the vegetation became a lot more interesting. In fact, it didn't take long until I was once again in coffee country! From nowhere things were looking up! Stopped to admire the coffee plants a tiny humming bird put in an appearance. 

*A roadside fruit shop and home*



​With so little traffic on the road I stopped to top up my water at the first store. I asked about a coffee to be told no but a couple of minutes later I had a cup of coffee in front of me! 

*An interesting road! Notice the small landslide evidence but also that pinky tree. These started appearing today and really cheered me up*



​I set off again and stopped five minutes later. Rainjacket time! The thing with the rain is that it can be possible to travel in it or totally impossible. This was possible and stayed so. Heavy, but manageable. I didn't see any point in stopping because nowhere had shelter and it didn't look like stopping anytime soon. Just keep pedaling. So I did! 

*Meandering through a river valley, the río Gauchicos I believe*




​To be continued......


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 809, Tuesday, November 30, 2021, San Agustín to San Juan de Villalobos 90 km Total KM 14562
Min meters 1222, Max Meters 2252
Total Climb 1419 Total Descent 1640
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 21

You just had to be here! Part Two

Climbing kept me warm and the landscape kept me amused. The road kept me alert! I was following the course of a small river through a pretty valley.

The meters kept clocking up and that was all that counted. If I was lucky and timed it right maybe I could hit the summit as the rain stopped. A long descent in the rain would be cold!

*Yep! More coffee! *



​The rain did start to lighten near the top. Only I wasn't near the top! A quick glance at Osmand this morning gave me a target height of 2100 meters. 
Ha Dumbass! 
It was closer to 2300! And much steeper now than earlier!

*It was a pretty valley*



​There were some fabulous switchbacks to look down and back. Slowly I made it to the summit and set off the other side - back into mist and rain. And colder

Thankfully I spotted a simple roadside place and had more coffee and empanadas. I'd planned on a picnic en route but the rain wasn't helping. I'm not about to pull out my own food at a roadside restaurant especially not one as impoverished as this. 

*A surreptitious shot of my coffee and empanada stop. A simple display of crisps, soft drinks and empanadas. A flask for the coffee. The couple live in a two room shack their bed a mattress on the floor. It's a tough life in these parts*



​While I dawdled I got cooler and cooler and eventually cold but on the plus side the rain lightened and seemed to stop. I set off again.

The road was not my friend, rough, broken, cracked, potholed and that was when it had a surface! There were times it was surfaceless! 

*An interesting road! Both bends I jammed on the brakes; once for the road, once for the pinky/purpley tree*



​I seemed to pass by or through a couple of designated parks or areas of special interest during the day. One, in particular, El Cedro, described itself as where "the magic of nature is within reach of all". I liked that. No mention of hectares or investment or quantities of plants or animals, instead an appeal to the imagination.

*Now this is my kind of country! It looks like I could ride into the clouds! The sinking sun is blasting out the last few rays*



​A motorbike slowed down beside me for a chat and then pulled in further down the road with a gift for me - some kind of peanut treat. When the rider heard that I was heading for Villalobos he told me he had an aunt there and that I could stay! I immediately accepted the generous offer. He told me to look out for the school - the house was beside it and his bike would show which house. 

I set off in great form! What a wonderful birthday present from the Touring Gods! I knew that accommodation was limited and basic and now I'd have a Colombian hospitality experience! 

*This late in the day I shouldn't be stopping. *



​The last stretch was just phenomenal and where both cameras failed so abysmally.
There were mountains with clouds floating beneath them. A monster mountain behind me was almost totally blanketed by pure white cloud, only a tiny, triangular peak above. To my left a ridge of mountains meandered further away green giving way to a deep, vivid navy blue with a stunning white cloud for contrast. Stunning. And regularly wisps of thin cotton clouds trapped in a valley below me. If I had been given the power to design a skyscape I couldn't have wished for more.

*I haven't cycled to the bottom of Colombia to speed up now!*



​Despite stopping regularly for photos and to admire and soak (feck the sinking sun!) I knew the photos were no good and I could feel a sense of frustration building. Then, on the wind it seemed, a voice whispered "This is for you. No need to share. Just enjoy". So I did. Sorry!

*These images only give the vaguest impression of what I was seeing *



​San Juan de Villalobos isn't so much a one horse town as a three legged blind mule town stretched along the road.
I spotted the school, unusually looking run down and isolated in an overgrown field. After a couple of false alarms I spotted the motorbike outside one of the nicest looking houses in the town. I knocked on the open door hearing voices at dinner. A small, shy girl peeped around the corner and disappeared. Nothing happened for interminable minutes until the man of the house showed up wanting to know what I wanted. Oh!
I explained I was looking for the owner of the motorbike. To cut a long story short there was no mention of an offer to stay. I was given a cup of coffee and shuffled up the road to a basic hospedaje. Cheap and not terribly cheerful!

*Not much of a village but it does announce itself!*




​I popped out for a bite to eat, bought a big bar of birthday chocolate and returned for an ice cold shower.
Back in my room I wrote up my notes and with no internet I put on an old friend - No Nukes. There's just something about that music. I may be 49 but there's still a lot of 17 in me! 

*I couldn't have designed it better myself *




​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 810, Wednesday, December 01, San Juan de Villalobos to Mocoa 67 km Total KM 14629
Min meters 588, Max Meters 1555
Total Climb 995 Total Descent 1775
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

Nearly a climb too far

I've gotten used to creepy crawlies and even little lizards sharing my accommodation with me. Last night though the cockroaches made a terrible racket in the stone/tiled floor. It was that kind of place!

It rained during the night but the early morning was bright and sunny - a good sign for what I was expecting to be an easy enough day, generally downhill to Mocoa. The plan was an early arrival, a bit of shopping and an early, restful night.
Ha! Dumbass!

*Villalobos has two ríos! Here's one*



​I rolled across the road for a coffee and empanada and set off under a bright sun. To say that the day wasn't as expected would be a bit of an understatement. After it seemed like days upon days of rainy mornings this one was spectacular, so much so that I wondered if I'd regret my extra day in San Agustín. The Trampoline is renowned for foul weather. My "generally downhill" ended up with 1000 meters of climbing. The road was an adventure in itself in terms of surfaces, landslides and roadworks and the scenery, if not stunning, was very, very pleasant for most of the day. Had I not been distracted by the Trampoline the next day it would be a pretty special road. In fact, I realised that my head was in the wrong place and pulled in early on to correct it. It nearly worked - I was still feeling a slight urge to get to Mocoa asap.

*Stopping to get my head straight. There are actually two colours of flower on these - a dark and a light pink. I'm enchanted*



​There's not a lot of civilisation along this road which means that it all merges into one long scene. There's a few settlements along the road, a few houses scattered here and there and lots of yappy dogs. A handful of restaurants and simple shops. But there's butterflies too! Lots of them! They land on the road beside me and depending on how they deploy their wings they can be like two separate creatures. One very large white one entranced me so much that I pulled in to watch him flittering about until he disappeared. 
On one section from nowhere I was inundated with floating dandelion type seeds. One moment I'm cycling along the next I'm entering a soft, gentle blizzard.
Sometimes bike touring is great!

*Recent mudslide*



​I had a descent than a climb, then a descent, another climb, a dip, more climbing and finally a gentle descent to Mocoa. Unfortunately the road regularly became an offroad course. Sometimes no surface at all, sometimes partly covered by landslide, sometimes the residue of a sticky, watery mud, sometimes huge, deep potholes, and regularly water flowing over, back and down. I lost count of the number of landslides and roadworks. One set had me stopped for a good 30 minutes. In those situations I let the traffic off and then follow at my own pace - except that the traffic on the other side is waiting for me to pass before they can go! 

*Sometimes the road was good and the view pretty good too!*



​It was at that traffic stop that I figured out I'd left a brand new 10 pack of ciggies in my room this morning! Double Dumbass! 
It took a while to find a shop but they had ciggies and coffee! 

I had a wonderful spot for a picnic lunch, up high on the veranda of an old, closed restaurant. The shade was a welcome relief from the hot sun. 

*Sometimes the road was crap but the views held up*



​I had a very strange experience of scattered rain from a blue sky! At first I thought it might be water leaking under pressure from a hose (lots of hoses carrying water in these parts) but it wasn't. There were clouds in the sky but not rainclouds and certainly not close by - Ecuador distances! Strange.

*Palm trees! I think I'd ride to the moon if someone told me there were Palm trees on it*



​Near the end I was starting to get grumpy on the last climb. I was tired. A pit stop to admire the ever changing scenery put me in the right frame of mind and I continued slowly on, stopping regularly for photos despite the late hour. 

*There's always a waterfall or two......



*​Mocoa welcomed me with a load of roadworks. Thankfully, two wheeled transport was given priority and I had great fun moving in a pack of motorbikes. 

*And lots of ríos*



​I found the Plaza easily enough and hungry varied my coffee routine for chorizo with fried potatoes. Very tasty! Finding a hotel took longer than I wanted as I was trying to avoid any with stairs! I was exhausted. After a few I lowered my standards and took one near the Plaza.

*Stopping to get my head together on the last climb. There are worse places!*



​A quick cold shower then out for provisions for the trampoline then dinner. Dinner was in a Chinese, an oversized portion and enough for breakfast too! 

*No words*



​Mocoa was devastated a few years ago. A landslide in the middle of the night hit the town knocking out all power then two, yes two rivers flooded the town. The death toll has never been fully established. The Government says 400, locals say 1000. Walking around it's not difficult to imagine what terror that night must have inspired. No communication, no power and the next big towns for help are back on the road I travelled today - not easy - and the other side of the Trampoline. It puts my whinging on the state of the roads into perspective. 

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24


*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One


Here's the thing about looking forward to something for so long - an anti climax is inevitable.


But this is Colombia and I don't think Colombia does anti-climaxes


However, a road like this is just not possible to record on virtual paper. If you want to know what it's like to ride the Trampoline of Death you'll just have to do it!




























Only kidding!! But this will be a little different.
I'm going to put all the text in one post.
The subsequent posts will contain photos with context.
It's beyond my organisational skills on a phone to marry photos with text on such an extraordinary day.
The photos you see in this post are all leading up to or just starting the famous road. They have little or no relevance to their location in the text.


I was awake a little after 4am. I felt well rested and a little nervous and excited for the day ahead.
I boiled up some water for a coffee and ate my leftover rice from last night. Then I started the logistical exercise to get my bike and gear downstairs. The sullen night porter became chatty when I started loading up. Then up to the Plaza for a quick look and off out of town.

*My morning view from the Plaza! What a morning! *



​I had an up and down, mainly down road once out of town for about 10km. Then I'd cross a river and the adventure would begin.

I've very few photos of that first 10 km for the simple reason that the sun was blasting out of the sky! In this part of the world that's incredibly rare. I wasn't sure how long I'd have it. Most accounts of the Trampoline mention rain

I crossed the river and started climbing. Except for 3 meters down I would be climbing for the rest of the day. Directly opposite the river is a Police checkpoint and a severely smashed up car. Like something that has come out of a compactor but there are no junkyards around. A sobering image.

My destination wasn't far, about 30km in total but about 1600 meters higher! And on an interesting road! I had all day and felt little pressure. That was just as well because I wasn't long climbing when I hit my first roadworks and a line of traffic. There are worse places to pass half an hour listening to the river below rushing along. A line of traffic from the other side signalled it was time to get ready and I had a couple of kms of no surface to bounce along before the surface returned. It didn't last long and when it went it didn't return. At all!

*Just one of the rivers on the outskirts of Mocoa. It was calm but bubbly - a perfect match for my mood!



*​Progress was slow not because of the climbing but the surface. Stones on sand and gravel make for slow going. Traffic was extraordinarily light and came in batches - a sign of roadworks ahead of me too.

The countryside though was idyllic. I was following a river down below me that gurgled and sang, whispered and roared as the mood took it. Trees of all kinds filled the hills and valleys. I spotted my old friends, the random yellow trees in the forests of greens and there were many others with bright orange blossoms. At times the sun beamed down on me while a bend could leave the cotton white cloud behind me to be replaced with sullen grey.

*A man leading his mules 9n his motorbike..... And look at that morning!! The Touring Gods were beaming down on me!*



​I stopped at a little store for a cold drink (they had no coffee!) then headed on up. I had interesting views but most of my attention was taken up with the road. I knew there was a restaurant after about 19km and there'd be nothing until my destination so when it loomed up I pulled in.

Lunch was "sweaty" chicken rice, frijoles washed down with coffee. Because of the roadworks the ladies running it alternated between crazy busy and nothing. Once the rush was over I was interrogated in a friendly way. I'd a second coffee and hit the road again.

*Crossing the river to start the Trampoline. Have you noticed the beautiful morning?!*



​It was hard going on such an unstable surface. My tyres are on the soft side and I've been putting off pumping them up because the roads can be so bad. A bit of a cushion is no bad thing. After the restaurant whatever homesteads there had been disappeared.

I think it was after the restaurant that I really started to appreciate the height. In fairness, I was ascending rapidly. Switchbacks became more common and more of them. I showed my naivety by stopping for lots of photos little knowing what was to come later!

There were fords and waterfalls. The fords were fun, sometimes on concrete sometimes not. The waterfalls could be huge or small. The sound of water was never too far away. Because traffic was so light and in batches I felt like I had the road to myself. It made navigation very easy; pull in and let the traffic past (either direction) then continue like I'm the only person on the road. The road was pretty narrow and I was amused to sometimes see a sign warning of the closure of the "right lane". Damned if I could see two lanes!

*The Trampoline Of Death, also known as the Devil's Trampoline. It starts off very tame*



​This road has a reputation for being incredibly dangerous. It's name originates, I believe, from what happens if a vehicle goes over the edge - it bounces down often hitting and bouncing off the road several times below it due to all the switchbacks. There's a major road improvement scheme in operation since last December and concrete barriers are being placed. There are regular guardrails too, although these often have a gap. The rails themselves are quite high - enough to stop a car or truck but easy to imagine a bike slipping under especially if some of the road has disappeared! There were quite a few of those. Sometimes only yellow tape (which I have christened "Magic Tape") offered warning of a steep drop. As I got higher the drops became longer and the gaps more frightening. The loose stones and gravel gave me nightmares as I rode along easy to imagine sliding or slipping towards the edge.

*Glorious! I could not believe my luck!*



​Taking photos was a real chore. Trying to straddle the bike on such a steep, loose surface was fine until I tried to use one hand for a phone or camera.
Parking the bike was tricky; there were lots of places but the side of the road tended to be full of stones or there was a sharp gulley beside the road. Puling the bike up and out was quite tricky. Setting off again was trickier still - steep road, loose gravel, granny gear and a loaded bike. Lots of wheelspin! However, there were just so many opportunities that I couldn't say no. Trying to capture the depth, the steepness of the drops was tricky.

*Awwwwwww! They're putting in concrete barriers for safety.*



​At the start of the day I had seen clouds draping the mountains and as I rode higher and higher I was getting closer and closer. The sky filled with grey, ominous cloud and I had regular bouts of mist but none that lasted too long. Even when thunder rolled it stayed dry. For that alone I am one incredibly lucky guy!
The mist rolled in then blew away only to return again. Sometimes the sun blasted through cloud and mist and worked its magic and then disappeared again. The air was definitely damp and cool but that was as far as it got.

*Now this is more like it!!! (Photo taken during roadworks)*



​I was running out of puff near the end, partly, I think, because I knew it was near the end. The Police station, heavily protected but now disused as a sign of peace looked in surprisingly good nick perched on a bend.
A woman came out of a little shop to see why her dog was barking and that's how I got my coffee and something deepfried with egg in it. Suddenly I was starving!
I asked about sleeping in the station - no problem - and was getting ready to roll on down when she said I could have dinner too. Why not?, I thought.
Unfortunately, a miscommunication meant that I was hanging around while she meant at "dinner time". In the end I figured it out, got set up in the driest room, changed my clothes and returned for some simple, if greasy food. Then back to the tent. Full of good intentions I boiled up some water for tea, took it into my tent and fell asleep before I could drink it!

*On the last stretch of asphalt. Look at that countryside!*



​It was a simply amazing day!
It's tough and physically demanding but I was distracted from that for most of the day by what was going on around me.
I imagine I'm a nightmare to travel with but damn am I lucky!! A day on the Trampoline with no rain??? And almost perfect views for most of the day??? The Touring Gods are spoiling me!

*No road surface but I do have a río for company. *​






To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24


*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 2


*Ha! I got very carried away in my enthusiasm for switchbacks! This wasn't even 9am and I was thinking "wow". Little did I know!*
_*







Just one set of roadworks filling in the side of the road. Being a totally selfish git I was thinking that it was a poor thing for cyclists if this road is improved while on the other hand I was glad that I got to travel it before the improvements are completed. What a dick!







Blue skies, bright sun and interesting views. This is not what I was expecting!









It's not even 10am and already the height is giving me great views. So many people talk of rain and cloud and mist. I am jammy!








I'm going to be including quite a few "roadshots" because the road is the headline act today. There's always a tradeoff on a road like this between keeping eyes on the road and the scenery. 








This is part of a big sign advertising the road improvements. Since I arrived in Colombia these signs trumpet road improvements as improving equality. I didn't care about equality this morning, I cared for the possible removal of adventure. Yeah, yeah, I know!






*_
*The surface could always change! Here dry clay. I'd hate to tackle this in heavy rain. Still tough to ride on in the dry..... But just look at what I'm riding through!*








*Here we can see where part of the road has been surfaced with this clay. It's just all part of the adventure!!*
_*









It took a while to get used to these. The barriers are quite high so that a bike or motorbike could easily slide under and down. To make matters more interesting, random sections of the road would just fall away almost guaranteeing any two wheeled vehicle would fall down. Given the lack of traffic for most of the time if I went down there no-one would know! 







Around a bend the sky could change disturbingly. I expected rain. It never arrived. I'm the luckiest fecker!!*_
*




*​To be continued.......
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24


*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 3
_*


It's only 10am and already I'm getting overloaded with views. The sun is working its magic but in real life everything is moving so the light is moving around. A glorious exhibition from Mother Nature







Light, shade, cloud, mist. All moving. Constantly. 







Not 15 minutes later it's like I'm in a different part of the world again. There is no let up to this. It is going on all the time and I'm slap bang in the middle of it! 








For long stretches there may be no traffic and it's just me in a rocky, dusty road, labouring ever upwards and this all around me. Wanna feel like an explorer? I've got an idea!









I just love that tree! 









The first of a few fords. This one was stony so I walked across getting my feet wet in the cold mountain water. The trick folks is wool socks - they get wet but stay warm! 








Looking back from where I came. It was about here with that brilliant blue sky, the sunshine, the clarity of the view that I started to realise the Touring Gods were putting on a show for me.







Two minutes later and everything has changed again! *_
*








Three minutes further along and things aren't quite so depressing. If I suffered any kind of weather anxiety I'd be fecked! *
_*







I think this was the first stretch with the "magic tape"! Equal parts dread and pure, childish excitement! It's funny how our minds work. I went from very cautiously pushing along these situations to riding stiffly, eyes straight ahead to riding while having a good look around. It was great fun! *_
*





*​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 4


*Can you see the road? I can't possibly describe the excitement that I felt looking back at where I'd travelled.*
_*








From about here switchbacks became so prevalent that they will be in almost any picture. Another thing hard to avoid was waterfalls. They were everywhere from alongside the road to way off on far mountains. 









Magic tape in action!





I discovered a new member of my persona; Wonder Wuss! 
Wonder Wuss (unlike me) has an instinctive grasp of distance and depth. So, in those circumstances where I stopped either to take a photo or because of traffic and I was setting off again, Wonder Wuss came to the fore. 
Foot on pedal, apply a bit of power, lift opposite foot off the ground and try to maintain momentum. The camber of the road tugs me in the direction of the drop, that half buried rock nudges the front wheel even closer to doom and in a bounce or two I'm only about 20 or 30 cm from the edge ....... Of the 1.5 meter invisible boundary of the edge of the road. Then Wonder Wuss takes over planting both feet on the ground, both brakes jammed tight and insists on pushing past the tricky bit. 
It's a strange thing but this happened less and less as the day wore on. I guess we really do get more comfortable as we push out our boundaries. Literal and metaphorical.








I could spend ages looking back on this road watching it weave around and down, sometimes with traffic on it. 






Sometimes I couldn't see 100 meters in fron of me but I could see a couple of kms behind me! *_
*








Not the greatest photo in the world but it gives an idea of what the road can be like - rough, tough, steep, a bit crazy and feckin' brilliant!*
_*








What a view!!!! I am so damn lucky!!!!!!









Layers and layers! When I had a safe spot and it was a time when a batch of traffic was passing I'd wait, smoke a ciggie and soak up every second, every sound. 








15 minutes later than the second last photo I'm up higher and there's an extra "layer" of road. 



*_​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 5


*Lucky, lucky, lucky*
_*







Every now and then something to make sure I'm still awake!!








A magical road! 







There are four layers or levels of road in this one! *_
*



*
​
*Similar shot with a different perspective. There were times when I was feeling very emotional looking down on these scenes. Not only was I living my dream I was doing it in such spectacular circumstances.*
_*








There's always a tree!*_
*



*



*How many different shades of mountains can you see? Loads of time spent here. Agog I think would be the most appropriate word. *
_*






I'm trying to capture the steepness at the side of the road. Hopefully it comes out better than on my phone!






Sometimes, not often, but sometimes the climb was gentle, the road was safe and it was pleasant riding







You can see the waterfall coming down, crossing the road and continue on down. Sorry, but you can't hear the magical music it makes.*_
*




*​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 6


*A magical, magical road!!*
_*









Ten minutes later......







Looking down......







Cycling into the clouds. By rights I should be getting tired but the road was inspiring me along







By now I'm happy enough to roll on down here! It feels feckin' great!!!*_
*







When I can't see the Magic Road it's because of the Magic Mist! *
_*








Even if visibility drops to nothing there are all kinds of interesting plants and mosses along the road








Uncompacted clay and stones, minimal visibility, magic tape..... I wanted adventure and I'm sure getting it!!*_
*








Sometimes there's a crack - that's where the light comes in (apologies to Leonard Cohen)*
_*









11 minutes after the mist photo above there is this..... I just don't have the words!!




*_​

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 7


*I'm getting pretty high now and well above the clouds*
_*






The power of the sun can be switched off it seems 







And then it does this......







And then it disappears again......







But not for long!! I'm near the end for today and my legs are tired so this last section takes a while....... I don't think I'd have gone any faster if someone had strapped rockets to the bike







The Mighty, Mighty Roccado!







No words








No words with more zoom!






Nope! It's not the same spot!







And neither is this!*_
*



*​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (6 Dec 2021)

Day 811, Thursday, December 02 Mocoa to abandoned Police Station* 32 km Total KM 14661
Min meters 591, Max Meters 2126
Total Climb 1678 Total Descent 186
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 24

*For Netman
Osmand: 1.06948° N, 76.73648° W
Google: 1.0694800, -76.7364800


The Trampoline of Death Day One Part 8

Strangely today I didn't have one of those "reality meets the concept" moments.

Once I had crossed the river and started on the Trampoline a question occurred to me. Just why am I travelling this road? 
I'm a lazy sod at the best of times and have no interest in knocking off "amazing feats". I know people that will run a marathon or sign up for triathlon or do one of those obstacle courses that involves lots of mud and tears. The thought of doing such a thing repels me. 
I enjoy travelling on a bike. That's it. And yet here I am travelling one of the most dangerous, extreme roads on the planet! And I've no idea why. 

I also asked myself what it must be like to fly into a place and do a route like this or the Alto de Letras (there are services based around that idea). As I rode up I wondered what those people would be missing. 
Comfort would be one thing. Not ass-on-the-saddle comfort but the understanding of local drivers and customs. I'm no longer freaked out to see traffic on the wrong side of the road (it's an early warning system for a bad section of road). As I keep saying I feel very comfortable here. Would a new arrival feel so comfortable?
Then there's the scenery. I've become quite accustomed to it all. That's not to say I'm bored. Not at all. But I wonder if someone from far away would be able to process it all? Would they have the time and the luxury to make friends with the trees? To know which ones speak to them and lift their spirits? 

*The final bend of an amazing day!*




​There weren't many people on the road. The traffic, even on this road was a pleasure to deal with. I did my best to pull off when traffic was coming in either direction but occasionally I got caught out in a narrow section and someone had to wait until I had a safe spot to pull in. Not a smidgen of resentment or impatience! In fact, waves, smiles, greetings and toots of support when I raised a hand in recognition. A very bike friendly road.
One truck driver did barrel past me early enough in the day causing me to swear, jam on the brakes and lean precariously out of his way. Looking angrily up towards the cab I was met with a happily grinning face that I could see absolutely no malice in. 

*This is the view as I hung around waiting for my dinner. It was cold, to be sure, but feckin' amazing!



*​Back near the start where there were a few houses I rode slowly past a woman walking with her young daughter and a curious pup. I said my greetings and got a forced reply. A little later, stopped for a photo they passed again the pup both curious and timid of me. My smile wasn't returned. Setting off again the pup reacted badly to me and scuttered over to the "wrong" side of the road. Unfortunately, a dumper truck was coming down. I hightailed it over to the very edge of the truck's side to give the pup all the room to cross back to the woman now frantically calling him while I was waving to draw the driver's attention to the dog. Puppy returned to the right side, I stayed in the ditch on the left, truck passed with no mortalities and the woman found her tongue telling me what a great journey I was going to have with lots of beautiful photos! 
One blog I had read before inspired the note "not as friendly as before". A couple had noted over the whole Trampoline that people shunned them, ignored them and generally made them feel unwelcome. I didn't notice that at all, quite the opposite in fact. I passed numerous workmen either large groups working on one specific job or, more commonly, two guys in the middle of nowhere filling holes, trimming edges, clearing drains and received nothing but goodwill and often short chats. If these guys (or drivers) felt any resentment for someone on a pleasure jaunt on their workplace they kept it well hidden.

*The famed "cellphone tower #2". And I cycled up to it!*




​At the end of the day I had a profound sense of gratitude. I had completed day one successfully and safely. There was no turning back now! Going back would be just as difficult as going ahead. 
I can't remember when I first read about this road or whose account it was. I know I looked at YouTube videos but I always preferred the written word and the still photos. More for my imagination to work with. I can pause over a word or sentence as long as I like, linger over a photo without the next scene rushing in. So, there I was nearly atop a mountain in Southern Colombia grateful to all those who have done this road before me, to Andy Peat, to Tim Tower and the Shaws and lots of others too.
I had prepared the ground, especially with my trip to Spain but they (and others) had supplied a seed to put in that soil. I'd tended that seed, at one time thought it had been destroyed, but kept it alive and it had bloomed into today. 
Then there's all the others who listened to my ideas, with incomprehension to be sure, but who didn't undermine me, didn't try to scare me off. Maybe they thought I was bullshitting, hell, there were times I thought I was bullshitting. Not anymore!
And to the bike. The mighty Roccado. 25 years old, 7 speed, scratched, scarred, worn and treated with nail polish. This bike has done everything I've asked of it and never complained about its load or mocked me for pushing. 
And a bit of gratitude to myself for giving myself this great gift. 

*That's where I'll be sleeping!*



​Tomorrow I'll wake up on the Trampoline of Death! 














Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Friday, December 03 abandoned Police Station to Restaurant La Cabana* 29 km Total KM 14690
Min meters 1874, Max Meters 2484
Total Climb 1147 Total Descent 671
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 18


*For Netman
*Osmand: 1.12692° N, 76.84196° W
*Google: Restaurante La Cabaña
https://maps.google.com/?cid=9067019459079115844&entry=gps


The Trampoline of Death Day Two: Magical mysterious mayhem


*Same story as yesterday. The photos in the first post refer to the early part of the day.....


If yesterday was about an epic road and scenery today is about the people and the flora.

Ah, I am so peed off with my tent.
A damp floor meant the floor of the tent was wet. Light rain during the night added slightly to the water on the floor leaving me with a soaking tent in the morning. It looks like I'll need to pick up some kind of tarp now.

I woke up about 2:30am bright as a feckin' button. I read until I fell asleep again then woke up properly just after 6am. Slow to get packed - wet sleeping bag, wet sleeping pad and wet tent plus the difficulty of breaking it down in a confined space - I eventually wandered back up for a coffee. And my morning abloutions. The nice couple didn't want any money for my coffee and I had to insist. The first act of kindness of the day.

*Setting off into the mist and the mystery. It may not have been the greatest start to a day but I was full of enthusiasm



*​A light drizzle was falling amidst the mist as I set off. I'd a couple of hundred meters of climbing to get to the summit, then a drop, then more climbing until the end of the day, a small settlement where I hoped to camp. Truthfully that wasn't looking like a comfortable option given how wet my gear was and the uncooperative weather for a chance to dry it out.

There was a restaurant at the top and I hoped to breakfast there before the descent. Heavy mist and a steep ascent made those 2kms long, slow, tough but interesting. I'd be enveloped in mist then round a bend into clarity. One moment visibility was 20 meters, another I could see for miles. In no rush I was enjoying myself. I could stop and watch a patch of mountain across the valley appear then slowly disappear again.

*The mist came and went at will, at least around me. I knew it was denying me views of the valleys below but after yesterday it would be churlish in the extreme to complain*



​The 2km became even longer when I got a puncture! I debated about stopping and fixing it in a tiny passing place or pushing on up. For safety's sake I thought it better to push and as I set off a gust of wind scattered the mist showing me my target.
There were a few huts bunched together consisting of a couple of restaurants/shops and an ever present tyre repair hut. I unloaded Roccado and set about repairing the puncture. Everything being caked in mud made it a messy exercise. A friendly truck driver was chatting to me from his cab as I worked.
I think I was lucky to have the puncture when I did because as I was putting everything back together I noticed that the bolt connecting my front rack to the brake was loose and that the brakes would eventually fail! Good timing in front of a descent! I tightened it up, had to readjust the brakes and gave everything the once over one more time. I'd done it in San Juan de Villalobos checking the racks, mudguards and my replacement nuts on the Ortliebs. All had been good - I'd never thought of checking the brakes!

Once done and reloaded it was time for food. This time it was all men doing the cooking and I was served up a delicious piece of meat off the grill, rice, beans, fried potatoes and an egg. It was simply delicious and one of the best roadside meals I've had in a long, long time. Just as I was finishing my coffee a group of men came in, one very boisterous wanting to know all about my trip. He was so commanding, so loud that no-one but him or I could participate in the conversation! Pleasant and entertaining it was and became more so when I went to pay and the voice boomed that he was picking up my tab. A guest in his country it was the least he could do. I tried to argue but that booming voice drowned me out. I looked to the cook to make sure it was ok and he nodded then smiled at my compliments for his cooking. My best meal in ages and I didn't have to pay.
Outside, I was just finishing up my post dining ciggie when the group drifted outside again. This time another chap started hitting me with questions and the others joined in until the voice rejoined the group. He's from Sibundoy where I'm heading towards and promised me a warm welcome - "his people were good people" while his colleagues assured me that Sibundoyans weren't all like him! It was a lovely, friendly group conversation and I was well able to hold my own.

*It could be miserable..... I preferred mysterious*



​I set off again, downhill. You might think that downhill is easy but not on these roads! It's hard work trying to control the bike and speed. Mist came and went, rain came and went. Extremities got cold. A wet, slippy, bouncy road with sheer drops on one side sure is interesting!

The cracks and the gaps that I had bounced over yesterday were little ríos today, carving their way between and around embedded rocks, turning potholes into little lakes. A child's geography lesson in vivid, minature scale. All day there was a constant display of waterfalls, usually beside me, sometimes way off in the distance. Little ríos ran alongside the road on both sides too and moving water was the soundtrack of my day.

*When the mist was so dense that I could see feck all there were always phantom trees to amuse me*



​The mist swamped any chance of views but Mother Nature had that covered - the vegetation all around, within touching distance, was a joy to behold. Mosses on rocks were vivid reds and pinks a beautiful contrast to the dull, grey weather. The sheer variety of plants growing out of the cliffs whether upwards, sideways or sometimes hanging down (after something collapsed) was mind boggling to me. The coating of moisture on plants gave a sparkle and life to leaves and ferns again so welcome and in contrast to the gloom everywhere. Occasionally rushlike plants had leaves that started as green morphed towards yellow and finished in red.
Every now and then as if to let me know what I was missing the wind would blow a hole in the mist and cloud let me see a mountain and possibly a section of my road way ahead or far behind then slowly fill it back in.

*Waterfalls were everywhere again. Some rushing and pounding others toodling along and tinkling. *



​Then the climbing started all over again. I don't really notice the climbing on these roads - all my attention is on staying upright. Every now and then a steep turn would have me noticing but otherwise I slowly ascended into a clearer sky. Checking Gizmo every now and then was a pleasant surprise to see a new, higher number. These days progress isn't in kms - it's in meters!

*There were still more than enough hairy moments to keep me satisfied*



​The wet surface was easier than yesterday for climbing. A bit sticky, perhaps, but less slippy. I was counting on a restaurant stop after about 19km and with the late start and the puncture I was thinking of calling it a day there. Most of the places along here allow camping. It's basic, but it's possible. Unfortunately, the restaurant wasn't where I expected it to be! That meant another 11 km to my original destination. 11 km is not far but on these roads it is time consuming. I had the makings of a picnic lunch with me so food wasn't the issue, sleeping was. 

*The wind blew a hole in the cloud and gave me a view of the mountain ahead. I scrambled to grab a photo before ot disappeared again*




​Then I came across a restaurant, not the one I was expecting, but welcome nonetheless. I had chorizo with rice and frijoles from an all female kitchen and chatted to a couple of truck drivers as I ate. One was expounding on the need for a sachet of energy to mix with water to get me up the mountain. The other agreed with me that natural stimulants like coffee were more enjoyable. When the two boys left I was the only person in the little restaurant and suddenly became aware of my gender as the women suddenly focused their attention on poor little old me!
A cursory run through my trip and the conversation quickly focused on my single status with lots of in jokes shared amongst the ladies. They knew to slow down their speech when talking to me so I knew when the tempo increased they were talking about me. I'd had a look around outside and saw no comfortable places for a tent and fearful of a night alone with this pack I headed back out into the weather.

*Part of the cliff on the right fell away so the vegetation above is hanging down. O was getting so comfortable with the drops that I could notice these things as I cycled past*



​I encountered more roadworks but as a cyclist in the rain was permitted to pass. Dumper trucks were depositing black stone and soil on the road, a big machine was spreading it along the road and a steamroller was attempting to compact it down. Messy at first, then a bit better, then ultimately much smoother it helped a lot with the climbing even if it made the edges more perilous. I was reasonably confident of making my target before dark so wasn't feeling any pressure. When the rain lightened and eventually stopped I took it as a license to relax a bit. There was still lots of mist and low cloud and they played with the slopes that seemed very close, revealing, hiding and revealing once more. At first glance these dense hillsides look green but in real life the random pink/purple trees are striking.

*The scar of a landslide*



​It was just coming up to 5pm when I arrived at the restaurant where I hoped to get permission to camp in the local school. Unfortunately, not one but two buses had arrived and the place was thronged with people, kids and animals all wanting to eat and use the bathrooms. I bided my time. When the rush was over I was led up a hill to the school, given the use of a store room with electricity and pointed towards bathrooms on the other side of the schoolyard. Me, a stranger in a foreign land treated like this is a normal occurrence! Home had a couple of open windows, a gap in the roof but was dry and cosy.
I set about changing my clothes, hanging up my sleeping bag where a bit of a draught might dry it and set up my sleeping pad. No tent tonight.
Then it was down to the restaurant for a bit of dinner and then back up to sleep. My second night sleeping on the Trampoline!!

*The road still had a fair amount of light brown mud which made me think that the landslide was very recent*




​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Friday, December 03 abandoned Police Station to Restaurant La Cabana* 29 km Total KM 14690
Min meters 1874, Max Meters 2484
Total Climb 1147 Total Descent 671
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 18


*For Netman
*Osmand: 1.12692° N, 76.84196° W
*Google: Restaurante La Cabaña
https://maps.google.com/?cid=9067019459079115844&entry=gps


The Trampoline of Death Day Two: Magical mysterious mayhem Part Two



*A rare relatively flat section. Bends were the worst for the "Magic Tape" and this should give a good idea of the road surface. This road is the only time I've missed the trailer. The ExtraWheel allows me lighter steering.*
_*







Luxuriant doesn't adequately describe the depth and quantity of roadside vegetation. The water just seemed to make it more alive








Every now and then the sun combined with the wind to lift my spirits. In no rush I'd stop just to soak it all up. Within minutes I'd be lost in the mist again







Looking back at where I'd come from. Sometimes I'd see toy trucks and cars moving along. These really were special views*_
*







Making the most of the sunshine! I was far from gloomy in the rain and the mist but a bit of sun and a patch of blue sky and my spirits soared even higher*
_*







And this is where I'm going to! 







Magical!







I preferred the smaller waterfalls. They made real music. The bigger ones were violent and turbulent and clashed with my mood. How spoilt am I? Having a choice of waterfalls!*_
*








Am I the only one to get excited looking at that road?*
_*






On that road!*_
*




*​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Friday, December 03 abandoned Police Station to Restaurant La Cabana* 29 km Total KM 14690
Min meters 1874, Max Meters 2484
Total Climb 1147 Total Descent 671
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 18


*For Netman
*Osmand: 1.12692° N, 76.84196° W
*Google: Restaurante La Cabaña
https://maps.google.com/?cid=9067019459079115844&entry=gps


The Trampoline of Death Day Two: Magical mysterious mayhem Part Three



*Amidst all the mist, the magic, the mystery and the odd bit of mayhem there was also a lot of tough work! *
_*









Not once did I get bored or think that it was very "samey". The mist and cloud was constantly moving giving views, changing them then hiding them. I had sore jaws from grinning so much. Lord knows what the other drivers thought of me but I got lots of waves, toots and smiles of encouragement







I never got tired of seeing the road stretch off into the distance. Pure adventure!








No railing and a recent landslide. All roads should be like this!







This probably looks very similar to lots of other photos. It sure didn't feel like it! This road is full of character






*_
*A whooshing waterfall






Another rail-less corner!*
_*






Toy trucks! Strangely this was the quietest road for horns that I've been on for a while. Take the toots for me out of the equation and I only heard one horn in frustration and that was during a holdup for roadworks






The road into the mystery......







The toy truck again*_
*



*
​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Friday, December 03 abandoned Police Station to Restaurant La Cabana* 29 km Total KM 14690
Min meters 1874, Max Meters 2484
Total Climb 1147 Total Descent 671
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 28 Ave Temp 18


*For Netman
*Osmand: 1.12692° N, 76.84196° W
*Google: Restaurante La Cabaña
https://maps.google.com/?cid=9067019459079115844&entry=gps


The Trampoline of Death Day Two: Magical mysterious mayhem Part Three

*Sometimes the sun tries and tries but it just can't break through*
_*







It's a narrow road! There are some passing places and drivers are patient and cooperative. On a bike, especially uphill I have to be careful to judge the distances correctly. It can be difficult to judge distance on a road that switches back so many times and that engine I hear can be ahead or behind, above or below! 








Another fresh landslide







A slightly different perspective








It's really great, quite inspirational to be able to look down at where I've come from. Very motivational






A bit further along it's now clear there were two landslides







By now I was near the end and I slowed right down. I didn't want to lose a minute on the road. 







There's always a tree!*_
*







The king of bikes!*
_*






The restaurant where I'd get permission to bed down in the school with a "chicken bus"* parked up outside.
Notice the tarp on top covering all kinds of things being transported while sacks of potatoes and a motorbike were strapped on the back. 
I can't imagine how uncomfortable it must be to travel the Trampoline in one of these! There are a lot of Pick-Up taxis ferrying people and cargoes along the road. Crammed in the back under canvas, sitting on benches along the sides only able to see out the back it must be just as uncomfortable. And these guys drive fast! 
*These are more common in the poorer areas for longer routes. On main roads and the wealthier areas there are buses like we'd see on intercity routes in Europe.*_
*



*
​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Saturday, December 04 Restaurant La Cabana to Sibundoy 21 km Total KM 14711
Min meters 2142, Max Meters 2779
Total Climb 315 Total Descent 683
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 20

The Trampoline of Death Day Three:
I don't want it to end

You know the story..... More pics later...

Going to bed last night was interesting. I had a giant moth for company and when I say giant I mean giant! He was making such a racket I kept thinking that I had a rat for company. He seemed to spend a good amount of time on the floor flapping his wings furiously and hitting off discarded plastic and other bits and pieces. Eventually I stopped checking for rats and fell asleep.

I woke up about 6 feeling quite good until I heard the rain. A quick look outside however, showed no sign of rain - it was a río rushing down the hill I was hearing! That lifted my spirits and I set about getting packed up. I'd a couple of coffees at the restaurant before I'd set off again - up and up. 
Three truck drivers having coffee too came over for a chat. They were intrigued by the bike and especially the weight. Two lifted it and used words like "respect", but one of them kept going back and lifting it like he didn't believe it.

*My home last night. The local school. There were maybe five buildings spread along the road. A pretty small population*



​Today was the "easy" day. A climb of 250 meters and then a long descent. I wasn't sure where I was going to stop but the Trampoline would end, according to me, around the small village of San Francisco. 

Easy on the Trampoline is very, very subjective! The climb had some tough gradients but a thankfully relatively smooth surface. To distract me mist and clouds toyed with the hills and mountains, enclosing or revealing as the mood struck. In no rush I was able to appreciate and enjoy.

*My view loading up the bike. As mornings go this was pretty good!*



​I'd had no food this morning, just the coffee, thinking that I'd wait until the village to eat. The problem with that strategy is that a hefty climb can make us suddenly hungry! A couple of cereal bars did the job and I rolled upwards. 

The road and the views distracted me from the climbing and I arrived at the summit in relatively good shape.
Behind me were mountains and valleys covered in dense trees, shrouded in clouds and mist but in front of me was a fertile green valley illuminated by bright sun. It really was a turning point away from the mystery and harshness of the mountains and the life of the valley below.

*Having a coffee ...... And then another. Is it any wonder that I was slow to leave?*



​I didn't want to leave! I looked and could appreciate the sun, I looked forward to feeling it again on my skin, just not yet. I lingered. I smoked. I lingered some more. I thought about what I had achieved. And still I didn't move. 

I think it was a few drops of rain that finally spurred me onto the bike and off I set downhill. The Trampoline was as good as finished.
Ha! Dumbass!

*Looking down the road I'd travelled up yesterday.*



​The surface which had been compacted mud and stone became just compacted mud. Smoother to be sure, but slippier. Sharp, steep switchbacks added to the fun. These were trickily steep and the camber difficult to negotiate. The Trampoline wasn't finished with me yet. I had great views of San Francisco and Sibundoy gleaming in the sun and they seemed closer and closer with each sweeping bend. 

*Same view a little later. The sky doesn't stay the same for long in these parts*



​Then I hit traffic! 
Not roadworks as such, but dumper trucks picking up loads of the stony black soil for the road in a type of quarry beside the road. This required the road to be closed. I waited along with the line of traffic watching each truck get filled, move off and be replaced by the next in line. Eventually the oncoming traffic got the go ahead and when they had passed it was our turn. I let all the other traffic head off then followed gingerly on the chewed up surface. 

*Finally on the move and looking back*




​Sure enough around a bend I came across the trucks dumping their loads on the now rocky, stony "road" and a machine then spreading it out. I ploughed my way through this weaving around the trucks and back onto the familiar stony, rocky surface. Boneshaking it was! Brutal! And desperately slow. 
All of a sudden I didn't want to linger any more! I wanted off! It was almost cruel to look at the village in the near distance and realise it was suddenly much further away!

*Looking forward and a bit of blue sky. Normally a bit of blue sky can be an incentive but today? Not so much. Slowly slowly was the order of the day*



​I rattled and shook and bounced ever downwards and finally took a swing around a bend and onto a straight stretch. A little further ahead I could see a proper surface!! I could also see that it degenerated pretty quickly but that was just me being picky!

*It's really not a road for speed anyway*



​The relief to be back on a "proper" surface was surprisingly strong. Almost emotional! And I was still descending so my speed quickly picked up. A tad disorienting. 

*There's an atmosphere on a road like this created by nature, weather, the solitude and the road itself. If it's possible for a road to have a soul this one does. Gun to head it's not my "favourite" road to ride a bike on but as an experience? It's way, way up there lost in the mist and cloud



*​The main road took me past San Francisco so I turned off to find the Plaza, a slightly dull open area but with an interesting sculpture. A couple of kids pulled over on their motorbike for a chat. Yes! Kids on a motorbike! She didn't know where Ireland was but he insisted that he knew. A pleasant encounter. I found a place for a coffee and empanada, another friendly man and decided to stay. With only one hotel around the corner I wandered over to find it full! Oh well!

*A road with soul*



​Back on the bike and on to Sibundoy, a much bigger town. it took me a while to find the Church and Plaza, located as it was at the top of the town - top as in up high! A very interesting park filled with indigenous art. A very friendly lady in an artesenal goods/coffee shop sorted out my coffee needs. I checked out a hotel on the Plaza, a tad pricey but very good - the other hotels were all in noisy spots - so I booked a room and was home.

The Trampoline was over! 


To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Saturday, December 04 Restaurant La Cabana to Sibundoy 21 km Total KM 14711
Min meters 2142, Max Meters 2779
Total Climb 315 Total Descent 683
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 20

The Trampoline of Death Day Three:
I don't want it to end Part Two

*Today was a "safer" day or maybe I was just getting used to the road*
_*







A Christmas Tree out in the middle of nowhere!! I couldn't help but wonder what it must look like at night - there's even a mirror ball in there! 
Based on my night in the Police Station traffic passes on the road right through the night. Now that would be an experience!*_
*








There is just so much to see, to absorb in every scene. In no rush (and with no desire to rush) I lingered long and often*
_*






With good visibility I could look back for miles







I just love riding into the clouds! 







The road ahead is looking brighter








The sheer quantity and variety of plant life never stops amazing me








When part of the cliff has fallen away......







Even in such a small space such variety and such life








And there it is! The final summit! The other side looks like a different world - fertile, ordered and glazed with sunlight*_
*



*
​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Saturday, December 04 Restaurant La Cabana to Sibundoy 21 km Total KM 14711
Min meters 2142, Max Meters 2779
Total Climb 315 Total Descent 683
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 20

The Trampoline of Death Day Three:
I don't want it to end Part Three

*Immediately the surface changed to a compacted mudlike surface. With the sky constantly changing I had to quell an urge to hurry the hell up. In rain I'm sure it would be ugly on a bike. Even that wasn't enough to make me rush*
_*







The "other side" really was a different world. After a couple of days of dense, wild vegetation this was very, very different









Pretty steep and pretty slick but the edges could be wet and sticky. A different kind of danger








Avoid the middle, avoid the edges and listen out for any traffic. I kept thinking to myself how embarrassing it would be to fall off here!*_
*








The plains below looked so inviting and so very close but every part of me was in no rush*
_*







A totally different world. The urge to explore is strong - just not yet








Traffic jam! This signalled the end of my idyllic (if tricky) descent







The bumpy surface is back!








Oh God!!! Get me off this road!!! (Yes, I must be the most fickle of bike tourists)*_
*








San Francisco in the foreground, Sibundoy in the background. With the return of the bumpy surface they are suddenly further away - as is food!! 




*​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098
​


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Dec 2021)

Day 812, Saturday, December 04 Restaurant La Cabana to Sibundoy 21 km Total KM 14711
Min meters 2142, Max Meters 2779
Total Climb 315 Total Descent 683
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 20

The Trampoline of Death Day Three:
I don't want it to end Part Four

*The official "Welcome to San Francisco" sign. Colombians have a habit of placing these miles from the actual town!*
_*







It started with a rīo and ended with one too. Just after crossing this some semblance of a normal road returned








Proper road!!! WooooHooooo!!!!*_
*








Interesting art on the edge of San Francisco*
_*








And the other wall







The church and rather dull and open plaza in San Francisco. A tiny place it had a bit of warmth and character. I could have easily enjoyed a day here








The interesting sculpture in the Plaza








A teeny tiny selection of the street art in Sibundoy








The church in Sibundoy. The end of my day's travelling and the end of the Trampoline.




*_​
I feel like I should add some kind of epilogue but I'm really not sure what to say.
I'm delighted with myself for doing it, moreso I think for having achieved a kind of dream rather than the physical act of riding the road. 
There's a tremendous amount of satisfaction in that.
It was tough in places but I never felt that I was in any kind of trouble. Slow and steady and the meters add up. 
Some people have done it in one day, others in two. It's not a race and I'd have been happy with taking four days. 
Anyone sitting at home, comfortable and cosy may well think that putting a tent up in a wet abandoned building or sleeping on the floor of a school storage room is a bridge too far. I used to think like that. But you're at home, in comfort. On the road comfort is relative. You'd be surprised at what you'll enjoy and not just tolerate.

I've said it before and here I go again; if someone like me can do a road like this then just about anyone can do it too. Or at least do that tour that they dream about. 
Tim Tower did this road on a Brompton towing a trailer - what's your excuse? 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Dec 2021)

Day 813, Sunday, December 05 Sibundoy to Colón 22 km Total KM 14733
Min meters 2099, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 227 Total Descent 253
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 23

Not feeling it.

I'm not a fan of these "indoor" rooms with no direct access to outside and a window or two into a corridor. I know a lot of hotels have windows that won't open so the indoor effect is the same but I don't sleep well in them.
I awoke groggy and slow. I'd a real urge to stay. There's a big climb down the road and I wasn't looking forward to it. The hotel though was on the pricey side and while I considered it good value for my first night after the Trampoline (hot, hot and long shower!) another night was an indulgence too far.

*Leaving town. At first glance these places can look a bit rough in every sense of the world, a town like this especially so since the main road runs right through it (on two separate one way streets). There's a life to them though, a vitality that is palpable.*



​I did pump up my tyres before leaving and set off with heavy legs. Being a Sunday finding a coffee was surprisingly difficult but I found a friendly Mother and daughter team in a little place on the side of the road for my caffeine fix and a fried arepa which was surprisingly good.

Actually leaving town it was late, almost 10 am. Effectively I was sabotaging myself for making my target of El Encano down the road. There were two small towns along the way and unless my energy levels picked up today was going to be a short one! A gloomy, dark sky really didn't help my motivation either!

*If ever there was an uninspiring scene - especially after the Trampoline!



*​The road was flat, or what passes for flat in this part of the world which means it was rolling steeply. Some long, straight sections were a marked contrast to the last few days and for once, uninspiring.

*The Plaza at Colón. Towns and villages are well looked after for the basic facilities - a five a side/basketball court, always under cover and nearly always with seats for spectators. They are well looked after too. *



​I arrived quickly into the little town of Colón and pulled up opposite the church conveniently placed along the main road. The Plaza was beside me open and empty this early in the morning.

*Today's río, calm and bubbling. *



​It was a nice place with a pleasant atmosphere even if, like myself, it was struggling to wake up and make something of the day. I decided to continue on down the road to Santiago, an even smaller place. It would save a few kms tomorrow.

*Between Colón and Santiago the environment improved with sweeping bends and interesting countryside.



*​The road was very pleasant, curvy and hilly weaving through pleasant countryside. In absolutely no rush I pulled up sevaral times to admire the scenery or to write up my notes or flip through my photos of the Trampoline. I much prefer doing these things in the open air.

*The sky didn't stop trying to intimidate me though. Like it had seemed from up high this is a fairly productive agricultural area.*



​I arrived into Santiago and immediately congratulated myself as I spotted a lovely looking hospedaje in fine grounds with seats that would make comfy places to relax. Unfortunately, it was a mental health hospital! Perhaps the Touring Gods are making subtle suggestions 

*A cheerful gateway along the road*



​I passed the only hotel in town and continued up the hill to the little Plaza and church. I struggled to find a coffee and was struggling to feel comfortable. There was some interesting artwork, a fantastic set of steps down to what I think is a school but there was something in the air, something intangible. 

*One of my many, many pauses. There was no point in pushing or rushing myself, just make the most of where I am*



​Since leaving the Coffee area I have been moving more and more deeply into the indigenous area of Colombia, or at least one of them. It would be a bland description to say that there have been issues with the treatment of indigenous folk, that a long Civil War didn't help and that there is a lot of work to do before different sections of society trust each other. 
Perhaps best summed up in this mural, the sentiments of which are commonly expressed around here. 

*"There is a future if there is truth"*​





I toddled back to the hotel and rang the bell to no response. I rang the number on the door to no response and had a thought.
There was nothing ahead until I was well over the hill and that was not going to get done today. I could stay and hope that someone showed up for the hotel or called me back but in the meantime there was little to see and do. I could well be waiting hours. The Plaza, high on a corner was exposed and cold. Colón, just back the road had more accommodation options and a more restful Plaza. So I turned around!

*The sky is still trying to intimidate me*​





An easy ride I arrived again and located a coffee easily. Then I found a nice, cheap room, had a cold shower and toddled out to explore. Explore is doing a lot of heavy lifting in that sentence!
These little roadside towns don't have too much to see beyond the road and maybe a street parallel on each side. Instead a lot of time was spent with my ass plonked in the Plaza watching the Sunday activities and writing up my notes. 

A reasonble pizza for dinner and an early night. I needed my rest. 

To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (11 Dec 2021)

Day 813, Sunday, December 05 Sibundoy to Colón 22 km Total KM 14733
Min meters 2099, Max Meters 2153
Total Climb 227 Total Descent 253
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 23



*A school "We will create generations responsible for the environment"*
_*






The rather overdesigned church in an unnamed, tiny village outside of Sibundoy






"In homage to our looms of life"






The church in Colón. Directly opposite the Plaza. *_
*







Guess! I really liked the creativity of adding the bird*
_*






Inside the pleasantly simple church in Santiago






A wonderful set of stairs down from the height of the Plaza to what I think is a school. *_
*






So fascinating here it is again*
_*






*_
_*"She is" appears to be a group advancing the place of women, Colón. There's a "She is" building **in the** town with interesting murals but a bugger to photograph through a gate*_
_*







Colón: Even ruins can be made interesting*_
*



*
​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2021)

Day 814 Monday, December 06 Colón to Laguna de La Cocha* 39 km Total KM 14772
Min meters 2064, Max Meters 3220
Total Climb 1364 Total Descent 660
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21


*For Netman:
Osmand: 1.14287° N, 77.15440° W
Google: https://maps.app.goo.gl/wgaWUd99dir7FG7z5


Day of surprises!

I awoke to the sound of rain, got up and packed and slipped outside to survey the scene. The rain had stopped but the sky was ominous. I loaded up and left acquiring an amigo in the process. The Hospedaje's dog who had gone from open hostility when I arrived to bored acceptance as I shared a bench with him using the WiFi last night now decided to travel with me! I made it to a little stall for coffee and an empanada and he was still with me. He didn't seem to have a lot of "street savvy" so knowing I'd regret it if anything happened to him I set off back to the Hospedaje having to bang on the door for a good ten minutes to give him back!

*I don't normally photograph people's homes but this one caught my eye on the side of the road. With all that corrugated metal on the roof there must be some racket when it rains!*




​Now I set off properly. Rolling roads back to Santiago, a stop for bananas another for peanut butter - no joy so sweet arequipe instead and I set off out of town.

*My nearly travelling companion...... And below ..... It was bound to happen! I'm just surprised it took this long!*



The climbing started here. Steeply! 1100 meters up until I hit the top. For someone who used to be so nonchalent about hills I've swung the other way now - most of the time. Not only did I know I had 1100 meters up I also knew I had a fair whack of gradients above 8% and some above 12%. Osmand breaks this data down in categories of 4% (0-4, 4-8 etc.). There is always a few 12-16% (and steeper) but over the course of the day it normally breaks down into very short sections. 1km of 12-16% looks scary but not when its 20 sections. Today the steeper gradients were longer than usual. Much longer.

I was pretty lucky in that the dark sky didn't dump on me and that I had interesting, if dark, views. It was very slow going. Very hard. Traffic, even for a workday was very, very light and not an issue at all. After Santiago it seemed even lighter.

*There's always a splash of colour in the gloom. (I'm delighted this photo came out so well, do many don't. The light near the equator is pretty powerful).*



Rounding a bend and seeing a shop I pulled over and asked a young girl who came out of the house next door about coffee. It's not that my bike is so noisy that she heard my arrival it was that three or four little yappers went bananas at the sight of me. My request for coffee confounded her and required a shouted conversation with Mama in the field next door and lo and behold a much appreciated coffee was brought from their kitchen. I could sit down on a little bench and try to make friends with the yappers (no joy) and conversation with my coffee saviour. She was very shy so I stopped bothering her.

The climb seemed interminable and in all honesty felt like the toughest I've done in a long time. Perhaps tiredness, perhaps a lack of proper food but definitely the steepness had an impact. I'd take a break every 100 - 150 meters gained or so.

*Today's río. They're a lot calmer these days*



​I passed quite a few ruined houses, long deserted with entire ecosystems filling the shell. Most were scattered, lonely dwellings but twice I passed clusters of ruins alongside the road. The land that was cultivated after Santiago was wilder up here and I reckon life just got too hard.

It was passing through the second of these abandoned (or so I thought) villages that a group of about 4 or 5 yappers came for me. This has become more common recently and is annoying and frustrating more than dangerous. They're cowards, typically, and run off if I stop. But they persist with the barking. If there are other dogs in the area it sets them off too. This time was different, though. One small shaggy fecker was particularly vocal and snappy and got a bit close so I stopped. Of course he ran away. The second time ditto. The third time he launched himself at my rear pannier and I heard a strange sound. I stopped to investigate. The little fecker had bitten right through!! I was furious! If I could have caught him I'd have kicked him to Patagonia and then followed on down just to kick him again! My rear panniers are sacrosanct - 100% waterproof. Not anymore.

*This is an agricultural area and seemed quite productive. As I got higher the crops became scarcer as the land became more wild*



​Normally a bit of anger can be used to power up a hill but not today. It was a slow, hard slog.

It was about 1pm when I arrived at the summit and faced into a long, cold, gloomy and damp descent.
Mist was in the air, rain was threatening a few drops at a time and a cold wind was blowing.
I postponed the misery by stopping at one of the two cuy restaurants at the roadside, their cuy on display on a large skewer. I opted for something simpler, just a coffee and a fried arepa. Cuy, more famous in Ecuador, is a regional dish here. Skinned and roasted on a spit it's not hard to see what it is - Guinea Pig!

(Summit photos get their own post)

*Two roadside scenes. Bottom is one of many ruins along the road and visible on the hills, while top is a very bright mural. I don't know if it's a local character or perhaps a unique tribute to a victim of the road.*



​Setting off again I saw one of those roadsigns announcing the end of the surface and my heart sank. A bumpy, cold, wet descent lay ahead.

Except it didn't. They've obviously improved the road surface and didn't remove the sign and then I entered a part of the natural world that seems pretty unique, actually very pretty and unique. I don't know what micro climate causes it but Mother Nature put on a show!
First of all there were fields of strange, miniature, mongrel trees that seemed to sprout out of the ground and explode with a whitish crown. Thousands of them! Then the "normal" vegetation seemed to become more dense and colourful with oranges and reds and yellows livening up the various shades of greens. Photos taken in the dark gloom can't do it justice but it was a surreal, beautiful vista - and, of course, with so little traffic I had it all to myself!
Better research would have told me this was here but the surprise of it was far, far better than knowing in advance. It was a great excuse to put off the descent as I parked up several times and walked hither and tither to marvel.
Such was my elation at having completed the very tough climb and then finding this beautiful and wonderful reward at the top that I noticed I was swaggering and strutting along the road as I walked from one view to another. I mean John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever strutting!
Thank the Touring Gods that there was little traffic to laugh at me!

*The advantage of climbing - great views*



​Eventually I moved off again, the road changing to interlocking bricks, a bit rough. Relatively level still I was working enough to keep we warm when a car pulled up in front of me and two guys jumped out. One had a quiet, kind face with a gentle smile the other was all action and a bit brusque.
He was making a documentary and wanted to interview me.
If the other smiley chap had asked I'd have had no problem but with this guy I wanted more detail. Back in México the lady waiting for me at the prison had introduced herself and told me who she worked for. This guy didn't.
It was a documentary about tourists' reactions to Narina (my latest department or state) for example, what I thought of this area I was passing through.
That presented me with an out explaining my method of travel was so disorganized that this area was a wonderful surprise.
He started firing questions at me rapidly without paying a lot of attention to my answers but when he asked me about the Trampoline I paused to gather my thoughts and started to explain what a magical trip it is on the bike between the beauty of nature, the adventure of the road, the hospitality and welcome of people along the way....... When he cut me off mid answer I decided enough was enough.

*The disadvantage of climbing - views lost in the mist. *



​Dreading the descent as I was I had another wonderful surprise. Yes, it was cold and yes it was damp and yes views were limited by low clouds and mist but the road surface was surprisingly good, the gradients were steep and the curves were pure fun! Feck photos! This one is for riding not recording!

I was reminded of the Devil's Backbone in México with tall cliffs on one side and drops on the other, of bends that I could sweep around at top speed and others that required heavy braking in advance like I was in a high speed race car. Pure joy! Pure fun! Each curve knocked a year off my age so a teenager ended up on the side of the road looking at Laguna de la Cocha, a sinister, steel grey body of water below me.
This is the second largest body of water in Colombia and quite famous containing Colombia's smallest nature reserve (an island). Unusually for me and large bodies of water it left me cold. Ahead of me lay the small town of El Encano and a place to stay.

*WooHoo!!! A Time Traveling Descent!*



​El Encano and I didn't hit it off. Not much more than a street packed with stores and restaurants (the lake draws lots of tourists) it had a heavy Police/Military presence. (The Police here dress in Military gear so diferentiating the two is difficult.)
I located the most decrepit and rundown Plaza so far and a Church that wasn't much better. I took off up the road to the only hotel and set off about a dozen dogs of various sizes some of whom got too close. The racket was intolerable. Nobody gave a damn so neither did I. Pasto is only about 25 km away but up another big hill. No thanks. I turned around and headed for the lake. There's a little village down there that has to be better than this place.

*Laguna de la Cocha. Very unusually for me the cold, grey lake didn't excite me at all. *



​I'm not actually sure if it's a village or just a long line of restaurants, hospedajes and a few shops (I saw no church or municipal buildings) but it's like a Colombian Venice! Built on both banks of a little river filled with local boats for fishing or tourism it was not what I was expecting! With no Plaza the only coffee I could locate was in a modern, ranch style restaurant. Overpriced and it took twenty minutes! I guess at weekends this place is packed but on a dull, Monday afternoon it was eerily quiet. I found it both charming (boats!) and a tad uncomfortable since I got a lot of stares.


I found a cheap hospedaje and checked in. "Hot water" from the shower was a scalding trickle from the electric showerhead, my room had no lock and the wall to the next room didn't run all the way to the roof which was just bare corrugated metal. Ah, it's a quiet Monday there won't be a problem. I set off to explore.

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2021)

Day 814 Monday, December 06 Colón to Laguna de La Cocha* 39 km Total KM 14772
Min meters 2064, Max Meters 3220
Total Climb 1364 Total Descent 660
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21


Day of surprises! Part Two; The Summit


*There were thousands and thousands of these guys! Imagine a sunny day and bright blue sky and it must be wonderful!*
_*








A wonderful road sweeping through amazing country - not that I did much sweeping!







The colours on display were pretty dense and unique








The sheer variety of plant life was stunning








It's a jungle, Jim, just not as we know it









Just one clump of life, of colour and vitality








Mother Nature really knows her stuff!*_
*








A field of white explosions!*
_*









I spent ages walking strutting up and down. Every few yards there was a new angle, a new view, new colours










And, of course, there's always a tree! I had no idea this treat was waiting for me at the summit. The Touring Gods kept the worst of the rain off me too! For a disorganised fecker I'm pretty lucky!*_
*



*
​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Dec 2021)

Day 814 Monday, December 06 Colón to Laguna de La Cocha* 39 km Total KM 14772
Min meters 2064, Max Meters 3220
Total Climb 1364 Total Descent 660
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21


Day of surprises! Part Three; The Towns

*The "She is" building in Colón*
_*







The rather dull and uninspirational church in El Encano








One of the worst Plazas I've encountered - El Encano







Some villages have tiny churches. I like the fact that they look like "normal" churches just smaller*_
*







Street Art in El Encano*
_*







Difficult to photograph street art in El Encano









Boats!!!!!








The little río leading to Laguna de la Cocha. Unfortunately I could neither walk nor bike to the shore*_
*








There were lots of these black flowers growing. I was captivated.*
_*








A lot of effort was made to make restaurants and shops attractive*_
*




*​

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (13 Dec 2021)

Day 815 Tuesday, December 07 Laguna de La Cocha to Pasto 33 km Total KM 14805
Min meters 2545, Max Meters 3262
Total Climb 571 Total Descent 831
Min Temp 9 Max Temp 24 Ave Temp 16

Upstairs Downstairs

Well, my cheapness came back to bite me in the ass in a big way last night! An extended family from grandparents to babes in mother's arms invaded the other rooms upstairs and downstairs and fairly made a racket and made using the bathroom all but impossible and pretty unpleasant when possible. Lots of noise from snoring (I'm one to talk!) to babies squalling both seeping up through the floor and over the incomplete wall next door.

*Leaving the Colombian Venice. Early morning rain had stopped but it was cool and damp. *



​I was awake a bit later than I'd have liked but today wasn't going to be a huge day. With decent internet I'd made a reservation last night in Pasto for two nights. There's an immigration office there and I hope to extend my stay in this fabulous country 

*Approaching El Encano. The main road veers right after the buildings, the church and Plaza to the left. Even after my very good breakfast it didn't make much of an impression*



​I stopped on the edge of El Encano for a surprisingly good breakfast and set off again through the very little town. The dogs left me alone today but the town didn't do much to change my opinion.
The sky was far from cheerful but that was probably a good thing since I'd a 400 meter climb to do. 

*This bunch of trees gave the impression of exploding out of the ground. The things my mind will do when I'm climbing!*



​Traffic was light and the views interesting if limited by mist starting to fall. I wrapped up for the descent but still suffered as the mist got heavier. I pulled into a little village for a coffee and empanada and a chance to lose some of the chill. 

*Today's río - surprisingly small but deceptive, I thought*



​The approach to Pasto was tricky with poor surfaces, narrow roads and lots of traffic. Once off the approach road though, things improved remarkably and getting access to the city centre was pretty dreamlike - there were even pretty decent bike paths. 

*A long, cold and wet descent. Yes! I whinge - a lot!*



​The hostel was very specific that check in was only possible after 2pm and even though I was wet and cold I wandered from steeple to steeple. There's a lot of very impressive churches here. I could find no coffee vendors nor places where I'd be happy to leave the bike while I went inside so headed back towards the hostel. 

*There is always an interesting tree!



*​I got a bit of a shock at the hostel. There's 66 steps up to the door! There was no mention of that on Booking! I was pretty peed off. I parked up the bike and went up. After knocking on the door I saw even more steps on the other side! For Feck's Sake!

*Interesting views though!*



​The bike could be accommodated at ground level in a neighbour's house but access would be limited. That wasn't working for me - there's a few things I wanted to do to the bike. 

*A particularly attractive church with a natural firework in front. I made four pilgrimages to this church to see inside, three times it was closed, one time there was a funeral. *



​I decided not to stay and explained that it was just too many steps. It's not that I'm lazy but getting everything down in possibly wet weather is going to be very tricky not to mention the risk to gear or bike downstairs while I'm lumbering up and down. 
She said fine, that I could cancel. (Booking have been informed that I was a no show so I'm currently in dispute with them). 

*There are a lot of churches in Pasto! *



​Back downstairs I had another look on Booking and for a small bit more I've a hotel room. I took off through the busy, narrow and hilly streets, past more churches and found my hotel. Roccado has his own room locked downstairs and the very pleasant lady checking me in overruled a colleague to give me a bigger room! 
It wasn't ready yet, but I was in no rush so left my gear and set off to visit the immigration office just down the road. At last, things were going well in Pasto! 

*The hostel. The bike could be parked half way down the street. I've become quite adept at reading between the lines of the descriptions on Booking but this one flummoxed me. *




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 816-817 Wednesday/Thursday, December 08/09 Pasto

It's hard to paint a proper picture of Pasto. I found it contrary. It's very big, but felt small and constricted.
My arrival was frustrating; having reserved a place to stay because I didn't fancy wandering around a city to find a suitable place I didn't stay and had to start the search all over again. My hotel was very good with very friendly and helpful staff for only a smidgen more money so that worked out.
My reason for being here was frustrated as well. Pasto has an immigration office where I hoped to extend my stay. My new hotel was just down the road so while waiting for my room to be ready I popped around. Appointment only. And the next day was a holiday - December 8. Online I couldn't make an appointment for the service I needed - I had to follow the process online involving form filling and providing documents in PDF format of a very small size. Tricky!
Finally, one obvious feature of the town is the number of churches, some particularly impressive but rarely open outside of services.
It seemed to be giving with one hand and taking with another.

*Christmas decorations are on full display everywhere. There's a childlike aspect to them at times, as if children have been let loose with the lights and they want as many colours as possible. But some of them, like this display, are definitely for children. I had to wait for rain to be able to take a photo without dozens if families in front of them*



​My full day off to explore was a holiday so museums etc. were closed. Honestly! I want to visit a few museums! I do!
My second full day was full of rain.
Contrary.

*I don't know if the churches are always lit up at night or if it's for Christmas.*



​This is indigenous territory and walking along the street looking at the street art (as opposed to the graffiti) is a bit like watching a tennis match. A ball is served on this wall and it's returned ferociously on the next. It appears that many questions remain to be answered especially in relation to the "disappeared". This is not a theme unusual in Central or South America but for some reason I am more aware of it here than previously.
It's also topical; a former FARC leader and now dissident was killed in Venezuela last week by "mercenaries" looking for a reward. Nobody would be surprised if the Colombian Government was more closely involved than mere observers (and payers of the reward).
It's hard to come clean for previous behaviour if the same behaviour is continuing.

*Christmas; a wish for a better tomorrow*



​With time on my hands and in such a big place it highlighted my only criticism of Colombia - the food! There is a lot of frying and deep frying. No fan of veggies here but even I notice the scarcity. I'm usually pretty good at picking out places to eat but Colombia is thwarting me.
It seems to me that Colombia is a place where people eat to live. Food is functional with little or no effort to spice it up - metaphorically and literally.
Set menus are common - a bland soup filled out with potato or pasta (the texture of the pasta after hours in the soup is revolting!) followed by some kind of meat or chicken dish accompanied by rice and corn or frijoles (beans). Beef is typically tougher than shoe leather, pork, normally deepfried, has loads of fat, only the chicken is bankable. There's the annoying habit of receiving the meal immediately after the soup so one is going cold while the other is eaten - not that they're served particularly hot in the first place. It's not unusual to get chicken straight from the grill but rice that is cold.
Often the same options for dinner are served for breakfast, perhaps without the soup.
My preferred option, I'm ashamed to say, is a Chinese restaurant. Huge portions, rice, a variety of meats but very light on the vegetables.
The bakeries are losing their appeal too. The bread, while far, far superior to the US and México (and pretty much everywhere south of there) is heavy, dry and stodgy. Chicken pastries seem to be consistently the best, other pastries can be stale. Trying to find out what is in a pastry is a frustrating experience - I ask what it is and get the name. I ask what it's made with and I get the name. At best I can determine if a pastry is sweet or savoury (sweet typically outnumbering savoury 5 to 1).

*Arty farty shot. The lights change colour*



​I did get a couple of things accomplished though!
The Trampoline was hard on the bike. I've already mentioned the loose brake bolt. I also had a loose bolt on my rear (Tubus) rack which uses tork/torx? headed bolts. More seriously, I lost a bolt on my handlebar bag, the Arkel. There are two metal "slides" bolted to the bag that slide onto the mount on the handlebar. I lost one of the bottom bolts on one of the "slides". Being an Arkel it is tougher than old boots and could probably function normally for many more miles. It uses a standard size bolt but very, very short. I had a spare bolt but far too long. Off to a hardware store.

*The "infantíl" park, very compact but it has a running/walking route, an excellent AstroTurf 5 a side pitch, a basketball court (and another for kids with lower baskets!) and lots of space for families to sit and relax on grass. Other facilities were Covid closed. No vendors are allowed inside but they line up outside or stretch the rules to sell their wares through the railings. A lovely atmosphere and not a trace of vandalism anywhere.



*​First answer was a firm "no". For some reason, I didn't accept it and explained that it was a common size but short (or at least that's what I said in my head). He tested a couple of bolts to find the right size, seemed surprised that one fit and then, as if to make up for previous grumpiness, smiled and said he could cut it down to size. Perfect! And then no charge! I insisted and gave him enough for a couple of beers which really put a smile on his face.

*A bicycle counter. The display does work (it's just a camera fault that makes it look wonky). The sticker st the bottom declares that it is placed with German cooperation.*



​I also readjusted the front brakes (a pre-coffee adjustment in the rain on the Trampoline is probably not the best), was ready to change the pads but there's still (surprisingly) lots of rubber left and rotated the tyres. The cassette is looking in good nick although the bike needs a good clean. All in all not a bad bit of effort.

*A statue honouring a 23 year old student assasinated in 2003. (Jairo Moncayo Pascuaza)*



​I also picked up a tarp for the floor of my tent, 6 foot by 4 and got it fixed between the footprint and the base. Three feckin' layers!
The hotel were good enough to let me handwash my clothes (launderettes closed because of the holiday and the hotel rate would have been more expensive than my room!) and dry them with the tent on the top floor.

*I'm thinking this is a school. I somehow doubt they've paid any copyright fees but it does look like a fun place.*



​But my best accomplishment was a new pair of trousers!
The shorts I bought in Cartagena (cheap) are failing (no surprise) and my hiking pants have a hole in the leg after my fall in San Agustín. I browsed for a pair of hiking pants with no joy. Literally beside the hotel is a shop selling Police gear and on a whim I stuck my head in to be welcomed by a charming character in the form of an old woman with a measuring tape around her neck. Old school.
She reached for a pair of pants, an olive green and I was thinking "no, no no"...... Until I felt them! They were incredibly smooth and soft, despite being stiff. They looked heavy but really weren't. And they struck me as tough - very tough. Not cheap but that's by Colombian standards. 
Because of Covid I couldn't try them on but this is where it got really interesting!
If you're male, apparently, (it doesn't work so well for the ladies) take a pair of trousers fastened at the front and try to wear them as a cape with the waistband going around your neck. If the two edges get close enough almost to touch under your chin they'll fit your waist!
Alternatively, (and I believe this is for both sexes) fasten the trousers, form a fist with a hand and place elbow to fist inside the waistband. If your arm fits so will the pants!
I'm going to take a break while you go and check that 

*No matter where you look there are mountains looming over the town. This also shows the pretty decent cyclepaths*



​She was an interesting character, very pleasant and easy to talk to, eager for the sale without being pushy. I bought them and they fit perfectly. They're the most comfortable trousers I've worn in ages!
I explained about my border predicament and she suggested visting the Sanctuary of Las Lajas, somewhere I had been thinking of visiting anyway, even if it is further south and therefore the wrong way at this stage.
A lovely little old lady and I was so happy to be able to hold my own in a conversation with her.

*Earthquakes have led to lots of rebuilding. Some typical buildings and a typical steep street. Note the modern high rises that are sprouting up around the town.*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 816-817 Wednesday/Thursday, December 08/09 Pasto Street Art

*"Overcoming pain we build peace" (with a government logo) The ball is served*







*You close your eyes and forget. We close our eyes and remember" (an organisation that campaigns for the "disappeared"). And the ball is returned. *
_*







*_
_*The range of art in one mural is amazing to me*_
_*







Just a normal building. These murals bring wonderful colour and life*_




​

_*So much to absorb in just one wall!






A music shop! What else could it be?




*_​

_*I have no idea but it is subtle and absorbing






Graffiti resists!*_




​
_*A medical clinic





*_
*Two different opticians





*​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 816-817 Wednesday/Thursday, December 08/09 Pasto Churches

*I loved this one! *
_*







Finding a church open without a service going on was difficult. I won't take photos during a service. One church seemed to be conducting Confirmations. The boys were all dressed up in suits but the girls seemed to be in school uniforms.






As far as I can make out all of the churches have been rebuilt, some several times after earthquakes*_
*







There are so many different ones and only a few are not on a street making photos difficult*






*There are so many I had to make collages!*







*This is the blue and white church on the left above*







*They pop up everywhere!*






*Another Collage*
_*







I found this one to be slightly spooky








Forget fantastic designs and engineering perfection, forget fancy altars and elaborate stained glass windows.....*_
*The Christmas Crib is what gives the place warmth and soul! They go to elaborate lengths here and I love it! It is so interesting and child friendly. A pregnant Mary, Joseph beside her and the donkey following behind. I just love all the animals! The little waterfall I feel is a local "artistic license" to make Judea seem a bit more familiar.



*​


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 818 Friday, December 10 Pasto to Pedregal 40 km Total KM 14845
Min meters 1799, Max Meters 3224
Total Climb 719 Total Descent 1439
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 22

Back on the PanAmerican! But we're not in Panamá anymore.

I was slow to get up and get rolling. The mornings are fresh here and my big bed was very cosy and comfy. So much for the hardy traveller 

*A lot of today's views were like this - across a big road*



​I got loaded and rolled away. Pasto was surprisingly easy to get out of, even if traffic was on the heavy side. Before I knew it I was on the edge of town on a good main road with a pretty decent shoulder. With a 600 meter climb ahead of me I needed fuel so stopped off at a little restaurant for coffee, scrambled eggs, rice and fried banana. Breakfast is the one meal they do well in Colombia. The woman running the place had two kids, a little boy and girl who took it in turns to help between doing schoolwork at a table.

*Leaving the city behind I've an excellent shoulder on a good road for the climb ahead. Quite a few cyclists too, all bar one ignoring me. I have decided that I intimidate them 



*​I set off again and immediately started climbing. The conditions were fine but I was finding it hard going. 
I'm going south even closer to Ecuador! There's a famous church near Ipiales, the last town before the border that I want to see. When that's done I'll be turning around and heading north - on the assumption that I get my extra time that I have asked for online. It's only about 90km down the road but there's two big climbs in the way.

*More mountains! But these ones are different. Barer, with many, many shades of green. If Johnny Cash ever came down here he'd be singing about 400 shades of green!*



​The road became even better as it morphed into a dual carriageway and unlike elsewhere in Colombia it stayed a dual carriageway. 
Stopped for a breather on the side of the road I noticed ambulance after ambulance heading south. Not a good sign. Traffic seemed to be flowing ok though.

*An ominous sky!*



​A little later the reason for the ambulances became clear. On the opposite carriageway something had gone off the road and into a ravine. A car parked up with frontal damage seemed to suggest it had hit someone from behind and the front car went over the side. 
Lots of cars pulled in on both sides so people could look but I declined. There were no ambulances on the scene and since I hadn't noticed any coming against me they either went to Ipiales or returned to Pasto with no need for lights and sirens. 
I couldn't help but wonder at the irony of the situation - one of the best roads I've been on in weeks and such a terrifying accident.

*The weather here can be pretty intense and the sky is never, ever dull! *



​I continued on not enjoying the climbing. A couple of days off and I seem to lose my climbing legs. With relief I reached the summit and chose one of two restaurants to rest and take shelter from the rain that strated to fall. Of three dogs outside two were barking ferociously while one wanted to be friends. Once the bike was parked up and my intention of getting something to eat became clear all three wanted to be friends! 

*That's not looking so good!*



​A long descent and then an even longer ascent. My plan is to go for as long as I can and then find a place to stay. While sitting in the restaurant I realised that it's Friday and not Saturday as I thought! 

*Sometimes only a roadshot will do!



*​I've noticed more people walking along the roads again. Venezuelans headed for the border that's supposed to reopen December 15 (previously December 1). Its amazing to see what has happened to one of South America's more prosperous countries. I am literally witnessing a trail of refugees walking along the roads. 

*Rain! The full view ran from the rain that you can see, to no rain but cloud to patches of blue breaking through the clouds. A phenomenal view of weather in action*



​In México yesterday an articulated truck rolled over killing 53 migrants in the back. Mainly Central Americans desperate to get to the U.S. What's shocking to me is that survivors, many injured and in shock, fled the scene afraid of being picked up by the Police and deported. 
Imagine being in a dark trailer with who knows how many other people, feeling it tip over while moving, hearing if not seeing your travelling companions die and then thinking that the best thing is to run and hide. 
I can have some sympathy with the idea that some of these may be criminals - later to cross the border they'll need to make deals with Cartels to pass through "their" areas. I can also understand to an extent that people working and living in the black economy do not contribute to society in the same way as "legals" but:
There's a demand side to the drugs market that is out of control and ignored;
Lots of legitimate businesses depend on these immigrants for labour. 
Then there's the huge elephant in the room that is the historical intervention in Central American politics. Like a lot of the immigrants queueing up at Europe's borders these are chickens coming home to roost after years and decades of interference. 
Travelling through these countries it's very easy to see why people will take such risks for a better life. While "the news" is full of criminal horror stories I've been in the Latin world two years now and had one bad experience, an experience that could have happened in any capital city in Europe. I can't help but think that there are a lot of societies that could do with an infusion of the basic humanity I've witnessed and experienced again and again. 
Dying in a dark trailer after tipping over on a road is a risk that many will still take. 

*There's always a tree that catches my eye*






*Way off in the distance things are looking a lot better! *




​To be continued.......
​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098
​


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 818 Friday, December 10 Pasto to Pedregal 40 km Total KM 14845
Min meters 1799, Max Meters 3224
Total Climb 719 Total Descent 1439
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 22

Back on the PanAmerican! But we're not in Panamá anymore. Part Two.


I wrapped up in my full raingear for the descent despite a bit of sunshine. It was a worthwhile effort as the rain started and kept me company for a while before meandering off and then returning.

*Sometimes the landscape was so big, so dominant, so grand that it didn't matter that there were four lanes of road between me and it.*



​Starting at 3200 meters it can be pretty cold! The road was great encouraging me to go faster and cool down even more. 
While the road was certainly fun the star of the descent was the landscape.
Since I left the desert of Tatacoa I've been telling people just how amazingly diverse Colombia is - and so quickly! It really struck me the stage from the Coffee area, then down past Ibagué and into the desert only to ride once more into mountains.
Well, today I'm in mountains again but these are totally different! Majestic was the word that kept floating in front of me as I took yet another turn. Huge. Immense. Refined. The royalty of mountains. Majestic.
The photos won't serve any justice at all, taken in the rain and mist but it was glorious. Unfortunately, they were pretty much all on the wrong side of a big, wide road so you'll have to take my word for it.

*That's my road over there!*



​As is the way here, the weather played no small part in adding to the variety, as mist and cloud and rain distorted or removed the view only to change again. On a trustworthy surface I could enjoy swiveling my head to see as much as I could.

*Majestic? *



I've no recollection of this stretch featuring prominently in any accounts I've read and perhaps it's due to what I'm thinking is a new road but it really was a fantastic descent, cold, wet and all. There were echoes of Irish hillsides, just on an epic scale!

*It seems like the clouds are crashing over them like waves on rocks on a stormy coastline*



​Approaching the town of Pedregal I crossed a bridge with stunning views on both sides. What I took to be a road to the town to the right was actually the old road and a dead end but I could see it offered an interesting view of a valley, or more appropriately a gully through the mountains. I doubled back and enjoyed a little time enhanced by the light traffic on the main road speeding by, rushing past this little bit of beauty that I had all to myself. Bike touring makes me selfish, it appears!

*There's always a tree! *



​Looking at iOverlander someone reccommended a visit for the murals in the town. Since Dumbass forgot to hit the bank machine before leaving Pasto a bank wouldn't go amiss either. I continued on and took the turn up the steep hill to the town. Scanning for a bank I was accosted by a small group of young soldiers, one in particular very friendly and "lost" about half an hour in a very pleasant chat. The quietest chap with a machine gun loosely across his chest made me a tad nervous as the barrel seemed to be seeking me out. They confirmed that there was no ATMs in town.

*Majestic?*



​By now it was lateish afternoon and the sky was turning dark again. I could see three or four hotels from where I stood. iOverlander again highlighted one as ground floor access with secure bike storage. I toddled in and took a decent room at a decent price.

*Whatever about the horizon there was lots on my side of the road to keep me amused too.*






*Majestic**?*



​A freezing cold mountain water shower and I set out to explore. A tiny, simple church, no Plaza and not much more than a main street it's surprisingly busy and lively.

*The old road from the new road. I just had to explore*



​I stick out like the proverbial sore thumb in these towns but rarely feel uncomfortable or unwelcome. I rarely feel wary wandering down little sidestreets once I've seen something of interest. With no Plaza there's no "central" place for me to get a feel for the place or to sit down and watch so a coffee and the local snack of fried maize (a bit like popcorn) mixed with fried pork fat serves a similar purpose.

*I think it was worth the effort! Majestic? Hell yeah!*




​To be continued..,...

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 818 Friday, December 10 Pasto to Pedregal 40 km Total KM 14845
Min meters 1799, Max Meters 3224
Total Climb 719 Total Descent 1439
Min Temp 14 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 22

Back on the PanAmerican! But we're not in Panamá anymore. Pedregal.

*The "minature" church. To the left are taps with potable water*
_*







This one I really liked*_
*






The person who added the town to iOverlander was obviously a newbie.....or blind! Street art is very common in these parts and Pedregal isn't exceptional in this regard.*
*(Off topic but someone recently posted on a Mexican Travel Facebook page about how oncoming trucks would overtake each other and they'd have to pull in on the shoulder. Another newbie!)*





*Painting on that slope cannot be easy!*







*Another one that I really liked. Women are common subjects*






*I was really impressed with how they used the design of the wall*






*Just a normal house*






*I loved how the whole house was the canvas. Relatively simple but very effective*






*The animal kingdom is also a popular theme. Mountains are the backdrop to the town in every direction*







*Every bit of space is utilised!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 819 Saturday, December 11 Pedregal to San Juan 28 km Total KM 14873
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 2460
Total Climb 855 Total Descent 220
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 23

Is it a canyon? Is it a gorge? Is it a valley? Who cares!!! It's feckin' awesome!

I took a wander around the little village and joined a queue for a BanColombia counter but without an ATM they couldn't give me any cash. I decided on a simple dinner in my room and bought some tuna to mix in with pasta. Unfortunately, back in my room the only socket was behind the tv (fixed to the wall) and unusable! Cold tuna wraps instead! No Trangia in a confined space.
The WiFi was intermittent at best but it delivered good news in two stages.....
The first is that my visitor permit to Colombia has been extended to March. From reading online I was lead to believe that it was a formality but a big relief none the less.
It had been a stressful process with a website that didn't seem to work properly outside of office hours and an insistence on accompanying documents (passport, entry stamp for Colombia and any other relevant paperwork - in my case the story of my bike trip) to be in PDF format and limited in size. Proof of onward travel was also required, something I don't have. (I was prepared to buy a ticket to Spain but with all the recent changing Covid rules was reluctant).
Once again, outside of some minor and bureaucratic stresses I am the beneficiary of another country's immigration system. I really hope that Europe is as good to foreigners.

*Rejoining the highway. I'm really enjoyinv these cultivated mountains. Not so much the weather.



*​The second bit of good news popped up later. I'd applied through the Irish Government website for my U.S. Covid vaccine to be recognised by the EU. Given that all I had was a handwriten card with my name, date of birth and the vaccine type I wasn't hopeful but last night it arrived! I have no doubt that things will change but at least now I'm in the system.

*Do I whinge about the weather ruining my view or do I marvel at what I can see?*



​Interestingly, since November 15 I am supposed to show the Colombian equivalent to gain access to public spaces such as restaurants. I haven't seen anyone asked for it and certainly not me.

*At least the weather didn't affect my roadside views with lots of cliffs with various decorations. Yes, I decided that someone had decorated the cliffs for me*



​A large covered courtyard in the hotel was reverbrating with rain at 5:30 and again at 6. I got up and wandered out. The reality wasn't quite as bad as the sound but still wet.

*This is the kind of photo that is so, so disappointing. You're seeing epic dullness...... I wasn't!



*​Two largish groups of Venezuelans were huddled in different places under cover along the street. Chatting to one of them they're heading for Argentina - on foot.
His dream is to go to New York but that's not possible.

*At one of the little villages off the motorway this simple, bright wall caught my eye*



​I grabbed a coffee and fried arepa for some fuel. I start off with a long climb.
My Dumbassness yesterday has thrown up two issues. Firstly, I'm low on cash necessitating a trip into Ipiales, something I was hoping to avoid and my thinking that it was Saturday (not Friday) means that the church I want to visit will be very busy and accommodation scarce or pricey.
In any case a 1200 meter climb is first on my to-do list!.

*Everything got a whole lot more interesting when we lost three lanes and two shoulders!



*​I must go back and read the blogs in detail but I don't recall any great fuss being made of this road. Perhaps it's because Ecuador is just down the road and a bike tourist's mind will naturally start to turn towards the practicalities of that. To my way of thinking this is an epic road weaving through mountains that offer up a completely different set of views.

*I'm sure to you that this looks dull, grey and boring. Trust me - there was nothing dull and boring about it and the grey sometimes sparkled with the sun bursting through 



*​I set off in full rain gear and that was no harm. Rain was present for most of the day, often light, at times heavy and only sometimes absent.

*What were grey and vague down the road slowly became green and detailed



*​Since this seems to be a new road it bypasses a couple of small villages after Pedregal but I turned off each time to have a look. Not much to see but a few curious but friendly looks.

*Tulcán is in Ecuador! That's how close I am!*​






*The disadvantage of the lovely cliffs was rockfalls and plenty of them. México had signs asking people to remove fallen rocks - a good habit I have acquired if a little dangerous*




​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 819 Saturday, December 11 Pedregal to San Juan 28 km Total KM 14873
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 2460
Total Climb 855 Total Descent 220
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 23

Is it a canyon? Is it a gorge? Is it a valley? Who cares!!! It's feckin' awesome! Part Two

I think there was about 6kms on the clock when I came to a diversion away from a fine looking new bridge. I dithered whether to follow the signs - I'm on a bike I can go anywhere - but followed the signs thinking it was a diversion through a village then back on the main road.

*Wet, gloomy, dark...... And uphill! Yet I was enjoying (nearly) every single moment.....*​





Wrong!
The diversion sign is to stop people taking the bridge, the "proper" road is the one I was on. Back to a two laner with no shoulder.
Colombia is really unique in this - from two lanes (in each direction) with a generous shoulder to two lanes and no shoulder.

*This photo is so disappointing. With the moss hanging from the trees it was a real section of mood and atmosphere. *



​Immediately the mood changed. To my right was a gulley for water that was either pretty steep or because of new layers of road surface a significant drop below my level. To add to the fun the gulley was lethally slippy and rocks, gravel and mud were plentiful along the road and sometimes in the road.

*From my side you don't get to see the drop or the full scale of the mountains...... I did!😊*​*



*​It became my method to stop when traffic was passing. So long as I didn't put my foot in the gulley I was ok. It took two scares to learn that! It's strange, but I found myself feeling more in danger on this road than I did on the Trampoline.

*Just one of many, many waterfalls



*​That's the road and it's entirely possible that I'm just out of practice on a busyish two laner. But what about the ride?
I don't know if I was passing through a valley, a gorge or a canyon but I was passing through some epic scenery. I'm having problems processing the sheer variety of what I'm seeing. It's like Colombia says "Think you've seen it all? Ha! Dumbass!"

*I'm really starting to like the "angular" character of these mountains. *



​My photos, I'm sure are a disappointment. Mist and rain really messes with the lighting. I tend not to take many photos in the wet, making exceptions for "special" scenes. I took almost 300 photos today! That's how many "special" scenes there were!

*A two tier waterfall!*



​At one stage my sensible head chastised me for "wasting time". My feckless head told it to feck right off! I'm in southern Colombia, within spitting distance of Ecuador, I am in no rush.

*Roadside decoration. Or dressing.*



​It wasn't just the mountains that I was slowly weaving through, with their multiple colours and a painter's pallete of shades off green, their areas cleared for cultivation standing out, or the gentle slopes running to hard angles where Mother Nature hasn't been able to wear the mountain to her will.

*Beautiful, bright, vivid colour in the gloom



*​There were amazing waterfalls falling in stages or merging as they powered down, one fantastic río and to my right I had dense vegetation, often motivationally colourful in the gloom or cliffs of greyish, brownish rock, often with mosses hanging down. Dressed cliffs! I even had waterfalls throwing out a fine brown mist all over me as I rode past - that's how close they were - and how muddy the water is!

*Moss hanging over the road. I ❤ that stuff!*



​Epic is the word that comes to mind.
A few times I had no place to safely stop for photos but one scene drew me back almost one km on foot. The photograph? It's crap!

*Everything seemed to be on the other side of the road.....*



​
To be continued....


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 819 Saturday, December 11 Pedregal to San Juan 28 km Total KM 14873
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 2460
Total Climb 855 Total Descent 220
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 23

Is it a canyon? Is it a gorge? Is it a valley? Who cares!!! It's feckin' awesome! Part Three

At one stage, stopped and looking back at where I'd come from with a decent view along a river valley I caught a herbal scent wafting upwards on the warm, moist air. Talk about an immersive experience! I was seeing this epic country, feeling it in my legs and the rain on my face and now I was smelling it too. That's why bike travel is so damn good!

*The mist dulls so much of the detail in these photos*



​By any cycling measure I was making terrible progress but that wasn't bothering me one little bit.

*Not only could I see this scene clearer...... I could smell it too!*



​A few ignorant drivers gave me minimal space but the majority were far more generous with lots of waves and toots of encouragement. The grades were kinder than yesterday too so that helped.

*Cliff to my right, río down there on my left and misty mountains all around.....



*​I was getting hungry though. I didn't fancy eating my food at the side of the road so kept an eye out for a place. A few shops showed up alright but nowhere to eat. I hit roadworks and took the downtime to snack on a cereal bar. A short, sweeping, immensely fun descent distracted me for a while but I was feeling decidedly weak as I started climbing again. I focused on the village of San Juan up the road.

*Nipping across the road for a photo



*​It's another roadside town, small and straggly with a rundown church. A tourist information board talks of the town being famous for its food. I saw nothing to suggest a gastronomic centre and it's famous now for having the first restaurant I've walked out of for being too dirty!

*My side of the road was epic in its own way*



​I'm in a different part of the world and standards are different, I get that. Often it's the location (side of the road) or the equipment (old, wood or charcoal for fuel) and that's fine because things are clean. A dog or two might be wandering around - that's fine too. Hell, they're probably cleaner than me most of the time!
But I stepped into a little four table place and tried to pick a table. Each one had the residue of previous diners - glasses, plates, spillages. Just no. (It's quite common here that places are "dirty" in this way. I don't recall seeing such scenes in México).

*Today's río..........*​





I found another restaurant on the main street/road with outside seats (my preference) and settled in. A bland soup was follwed with fried chicken, rice and veggies! Carrots! There was a fine looking Shepherd looking for food, healthy, if a little skinny, with a wonderful personality. A stray, as it turned out, left behind by some of the many, many Venezuelans passing by. A little heartbreaking.

*Looking back.... The río and the road



*​As I ate I started to think. About another 15km to Ipiales, another 550 meters of climbing, steeper than before. With my current rate of progress that could be three hours. It would be getting dark in Ipiales by the time I'd hit a bank machine and find a hotel.

*Waterfall!*



​Using the restaurant wifi I could see a hotel here in San Juan for 25k, about half of what I'd pay in Ipiales. I could stay here tonight, hit Ipiales in the morning for cash then pop down to Las Lajas. There's a reasonable hotel there so I can have a good chunk of the day there. I've enough cash to get me a room here tonight. Sold!

*Yes, the wind and the rain was a PITA for the photograph taking bike wanderer but every now and then a scene suggested just how tough life must be in this place. Especially long, long ago.



*​It's a modern room with a warm shower - better than ice cold mountain water - the wifi is iffy but there's ample space outside to cook.
I showered and set off on a mission to get some sandpaper. Another thing that got done assways in Cartagena is that the rubber frame protectors that should wrap my cables on the crossbar got "lost" (in fairness I did it once myself) and there's an uncomfortable amount of rust starting to appear on my frame.
Normally hardware stores are everywhere but I couldn't find one. Stepping into one store to buy ciggies I spotted hardware supplies. Sandpaper? Of course! Not surprisingly this lead to a long and lively conversation about just why I needed to buy a sheet of sandpaper! A couple, they were both quite animated with lots of questions and sure, give me an audience and I'll prattle with the best of them! It was all going well until the lady asked me what I thought of Colombian food. Oh dear! I gathered my thoughts and honestly explianed that México had spoiled me for food. They accepted that but he triumphantly declared that Mexican food must be very expensive. He was getting close to upset when I assured him that it was cheap too.
No harm done they wished me a safe and enjoyable journey.

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip


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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 819 Saturday, December 11 Pedregal to San Juan 28 km Total KM 14873
Min meters 1793, Max Meters 2460
Total Climb 855 Total Descent 220
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 23

Is it a canyon? Is it a gorge? Is it a valley? Who cares!!! It's feckin' awesome! Part Four: The last of the photos


*So much greyness.......*
_*






There can be so much depth to these mountains. I could have stayed gazing for ages but once stopped I'd start cooling down....







An arty farty shot! I'll admit to some pride in this one








Trying to capture the depth and angles can be frustrating






Trust me! It's better in real life!










I do like this one!*_
*







The río from up high*
_*







San Juan



*_
​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 San Juan to Las Lajas 24 km Total KM 14897
Min meters 2448, Max Meters 2927
Total Climb 627 Total Descent 391
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 22 Ave Temp 16

I'm a pilgrim again!

There was no problem with sockets in my room last night so I dined on noodles and tortillas with arequipe for dessert. With a weak wifi signal inside the room and rain outside I laid down on my bed and dived into the Kindle. It's been a while. William Trevor is good for the soul.

I brewed up coffee in the morning and had more tortillas with arequipe. No running water limited my other options. Choosing between coffee and oatmeal is a no brainer in my world! 

*A mucky, bumpy uphill start to the day



*​I was in no rush to set off and gave the chain a clean and lube. All this rain is making the chain squeak. When I did set off it was into roadworks and a steep incline. 

*Gloomy and wet but still interesting



*​I'm not a fan of being on the road on a Sunday in Colombia. The proportion of jackasses on the road is higher. After about 2km the surface came back but the price to be paid was rain. Alternating between light and very light it still made me wet. It also took away whatever potential views there were. 

*The main Plaza in Ipiales, disappointingly bare and lifeless*



​It was after about 8km and 500 meters of climbing that things turned positive. This was the summit, all pretty much "level" from here on so I pulled in for some breakfast. 
This was a "proper" restaurant - in a building! As I parked up Roccado a full pig that had been roasted whole was being pulled apart on the opposite side of the window. 

*A different Plaza in Ipiales. Less bare, a bit more activity but wet!*



​I got a table and a young chap, very smartly dressed was prodded to approach me. Clearly new in the job he was nervous and unsure of himself. He ran through the breakfast options (menus tend to be verbal here) and I ordered "huevos rancheros" - scrambled eggs with sausage. On hearing they were served with rice and potatoes, tomato and banana I asked for extra banana and less tomato. 
When it arrived there wasn't a trace of tomato and loads of fried banana! It was delicious, seasoned rice with some kind of veg mixed through, delicious slices of potato fried in their skins and crispy sausage in the egg. Great fuel! 
While eating an older lady approached me as she left asking about my journey. We had a pleasant chat and pointing to my red nose she warned me of the dangers of too much sun. My nose "*has* been sensitive of late and has been getting too much sun. Despite the cloud and mist the sun is very powerful in these parts.

*Suburban Ipiales



*​Strangely, I'd had to pay in advance for my food. When I was leaving there was no sign of my nervous waiter so I donned my raingear and watched a car and truck nearly collide. When I spotted him I dropped back in to give him a tip and tell him that he did a good job. Unfortunately, all four girls working in the open plan kitchen thought this was very funny and I only succeeded in embarassing the poor chap. Four women in charge, himself and another guy working the floor - he's got his work cut out for him!

*Minimalist art in El Charco. *



​I set off again into the wind and rain enjoying the fact that I was making steady progress rather than labouring uphill. On the outskirts of Ipiales before I knew it I let Gizmo guide me in ....... And up! Ipiales is a hilly town! And because it's quite big the streets are long. I headed for the Plaza and was immediately disappointed.

*The art is so minimal, so underwhelming that I was aware of "something" without actually recognising it. It was only when I stopped and looked around that I noticed it*



​No town looks good in the rain but for Ipiales this is doubly so. In no mood to mess around I used Google to locate an ATM. It spat my card back out! On to another. Thankfully this one gave me some money. Now I wanted a coffee and damned if I could find one. Another plaza offered nothing so I set off out of town back the way I had entered. 
This is an important function of a gps unit to be able to deal with a confusing route like this. A previous Garmin would freak out and crash if my route crossed itself, never mind doubled back on itself. 
On the outskirts of Ipiales is the interesting barrio of El Charco with eye-catching, minimalist street art and lots of cuy restaurants - lots with cute, cuddly guinea pigs as mascots. A difficult circle to square for me! 

*The street art in Ipiales is a lot less subtle!







Here we have some cute and friendly cuy..... Come on in and eat one!






As a non artistic person even I can identify a style



*
​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Dec 2021)

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 San Juan to Las Lajas 24 km Total KM 14897
Min meters 2448, Max Meters 2927
Total Climb 627 Total Descent 391
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 22 Ave Temp 16

I'm a pilgrim again! Part Two

*Agricultural country outside of Ipiales. 




*​Now it was only a few kms to Las Lajas, a lot of it downhill with a sepearated path for pedestrians and possibly bikers.

*It wasn't exactly the brightest day ever but the rain lightened and eventually left me alone*



Las Lajas is home to one of the most famous churches in the world, is the site of a supposed apparition by the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for many South Americans.

*Looking back at Ipiales. Ecuador is just down the road! There's a dedicated path separate to the road, presumably for Pilgrims*



​In some respects this big, big trip really only began after my Camino de Santiago pilgrimage when I realised that cycling a few thousand kms wasn't just possible but fun too. A few days ago I decided it was appropiate that this trip should end (its southerly direction) at the South American equivalent.

*This bend looked much better "in the wild". The feckin' mist messes with everything*



​Spying a viewing platform and a little place for coffee nearby I pulled in and had my first view of this famous building.




​I got to the bottom of the hill and turned onto a street that normally would repel me filled as it was with tourists and stores and stalls supplying everything they don't need. But it didn't repel me - it charmed me. I hopped off the bike and walked down amongst throngs of people, a lot of them children. There was a happy vibe in the place and I felt quite comfortable.

*The church is in some pleasant countryside*



​I found the hotel mentioned on iOverlander (hot water, secure parking for the bike and good WiFi) and had a bit of fun with two girls as I tried to figure out who to talk to about a room. It's great to be able to take the pee out of people in another language!
A small room, a hot shower and I set off to visit this famous church.

*Hilly in these parts*




​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 Las Lajas

El Santuario





For more information: Wiki



*My commitment is: water, my river my life*



​I have to admit that it was a little exciting arriving in Las Lajas. The unexpected view of the famous church certainly helped but there was also the idea that I was reaching a destination that many, many people have struggled, laboured and sacrificed to reach. There's more than just things to see in these places - there's things to feel too.

*This is a strange place to be building a church in a narrow gorge created by a powerful river*



​I adjusted my usual routine - no coffee - had a hot shower and set off on my own pilgrimage to the church. The crowds on the street when I arrived had thinned somewhat about half an hour later so I had a good view of the little stores selling touristy and religious stuff, the hotels and eating places.

*Unusually for approaching such a building we hit the top first! *



​It didn't take long for my first detour from the designated path to visit a park for kids, sadly dilapidated. I continued on downhill.

*Never one to take a direct route (even when I want to ) I wandered around



*​Long before I could see the church there were plaques placed on walls, expressions of gratitude for favours received from the Virgin Mary. I was dragged back to the Blue House in México city and Frida Kahlo's private collection of similar items painted on tin.
These were of stone, usually, and engraved as a headstone might be. It wasn't unusual for people to use their names and for the specific favours to be named (cures for specific illnesses and one guy's military career).
There's a treasure trove of human stories stuck to these walls. Unfortunately, a gringo stopped trying to read the inscriptions was in the way of people heading for the church.

*Some examples of the plaques. Not only are they from individuals and families they can be from the "Syndicate of shoe shiners" as the big one in the bottom picture declares*



​But what kind of people?
All kinds of people! And their children, often with toys, and of course their dogs. Older folk were supported by younger as they shuffled down. Babies in buggies were lifted down the steeper sections (I think I saw more buggies today than in all of Colombia so far). Clothing was a mix of traditional, woolen capes and trendy active chic. I saw one other white guy.

*Getting close..... There's a pleasant atmosphere in the air*



​The church is built so low that I was level with the top of the spire before I knew it. To my right was the bottom point of a cablecar line. I had seen them on the way down but have no urge to use it.

*The río. To the right is a walkway along the river. I liked the fact that there's more here than just the church.



*​Below is the Río Guáitara stretching right and left. A footpath follows it to a bend to my right and to my left I can see a couple of walkways, one up to a waterfall, another to a bridge and also a kid's playground. I am quietly impressed at the lack of "Holiness" on display, or perhaps to put it better at the spiritual accessibility of the place. Walks, cablecars, a playground all speak to creating a family environment, a place that's about more than religion. I feel comfortable.

*It's quite small in relation to its footprint.*



​Continuing on downwards towards the church and past many thousands of plaques I go off exploring without visiting the church. It seems full and the area in front is filled with people taking photos including the by now customary Instagram star - a quick brush of the hair, lowering of the zip on her top, push the boobs up and strike a pose.

*The miraculous painting image. This "appeared" after the Virgin Mary appeared to a young girl and her mother.
I didn't feel comfortable taking a photo during the day - there were too many people in serious devotion and it felt disrespectful. I returned later that night to take this.*



​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 820 Sunday, December 12 Las Lajas

El Santuario Part Two

*There's a lot of engineering and a hell of a lot of labour gone into this!*



​I take a walk by the river and soon am alone - just me and the rushing water and birds singing. I go beyond the path, doubling over to get under a tunnel of trees and find a nice, tranquil place to sit and appreciate.

*I find it more impressive from far away. Up close the building is very "busy" but from a distance there's calm, grace and peace*



​Then I wander over the other side and up to the waterfall. For me it's nothing compared to some I've seen the past weeks but a steady line of people labour up. I go stand on the bridge over the river as it thunders underneath and am finally ready to enter the church.

*The gorge is beautiful, calm yet turbulent (from the water) and I have it almost to myself*



​There's a mixed set of motivations for people to visit and that is pretty clear from the get go. There are people with their cameras out, walking and clicking, others deep in prayer in the pews. One woman, not young by any stretch, drops to her knees on crossing the threshold. I don't mean she kneels down, one knee at a time, I mean she drops from a standing position both knees clattering onto the tiled floor simultaneously.
I follow the crowd to the altar and to the famous "apparition" that is the reason for this church.
It's a painting on the walls of a cliff that is now a part of the church.
This is not what I was expecting (having done little or no research just depending on my vague knowledge).
It appears that my understanding was incorrect and I'm flummoxed by the idea that the painting is divine and just "appeared" to be discovered by a little deaf mute girl. Others in the vicinity are clearly not of the same impression and I feel a strong sense of dismfort descending, almost as if I'm being disrespectful just by being here. The camera stays in my pocket.

*I can't begin to imagine the work that went into building this here



*​Outside, I breathe a sigh of relief and toddle downstairs to the museum hoping for some enlightenment. Not really, but an interesting film presentation on the history of the church (it's the third on the site) and the earthquake precautions taken. There's a joke in there somewhere.......
There was also an extensive if repetitive display of pre-Colombian artefacts such as pots and utensils and a recreated grave.

*A different view of the gorge. *



​I meandered back up, stopping for coffee and to write up my notes.
The church is interesting as a building given its stunning location but it leaves me cold. The kids happily accompanying their parents with their dogs and a variety of toys are far more interesting to me and much, much warmer. One young fella pushing a plastic dragon on four wheels that flapped its wings and gave a squak was happy as larry. Later, when his new dragon seized up he was inconsolable.
The plaques are so interesting to read, many of them generic but some with detail or the hint of human stories with real depth. Many are dated, the oldest I deciphered from 1954. It was difficult to stand still and read them though.

*The waterfall. How smug am I that it inspires a "meh" from me



*​Back at the hotel I updated this, ate well in the restaurant and returned to the church after dark.

*With so many places to wander there are a variety of different perspectives to be enjoyed*



​Oh dear! I found the exterior tacky with the multi-coloured, changing lights. Inside, the church was quieter so I could spend a bit more time at the altar.
Nope. I still don't get it.

*Like someone let a child loose with lights!



*​Travel is a funny thing. In the museum a man barrelled past me his phone out in front of him like it was following a hidden beacon. The phone saw everything as it waved about while he didn't seem to be taking anything on board.
This is my favourite scene of this famous site - Llamas!
Dressed up for photos for kids (of all ages!) they were so calm and graceful. A little boy donned the proffered sombrero and sat excitedly as if ready to go galloping off while an older girl, clearly sitting there at the behest of parents looked uncomfortable. A toddler screamed as they were lifted up and the photo op was aborted. These were opposite my hotel so I could casually smoke a ciggie and watch all.
Llamas were something I was looking forward to seeing further south. I got to see them the day before I turned north.
Sometimes I think know I'm the luckiest bike tourist in the world!

*Llamas! The highlight of my trip to El Santuario de Las Lajas I am a terrible, heathen tourist!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home"

I had a poor night's sleep due to a lot of noise. There were kids running in the corridor, people conducting conversations from one room to another and what sounded like someone dying. Or maybe he was just drunk and driving the big porcelain truck. 
Awake at about 4am didn't help and I half dozed until after 6 when I finally dragged myself up. 
I got Roccado from the garage, loaded up and made it to the road before stopping for breakfast. A good breakfast and a friendly, trusting chap. I know he was trusting because he put me at a table opposite from a cupboard where his takings were going. At anytime I could have leaned across and helped myself.

*My llamas!! On their way to a day's work*



​Breakfast was a smart idea because I had a 250 meter climb from the get go. I availed of the separate path and pushed the first while moreso out of an urge to see as much of the little place than anything else. Unlike the grey of yesterday, today was shaping up to be BlueSky Beautiful. 




​At the viewing platform looking down on the church I met two guys who were all questions and passed a pleasant half an hour. They wanted me to have a beer with them - I passed. 




​I wasn't hungry and wasn't disappointed then when no cuy restaurants were open on the edge of Ipiales. Instead, I had a decision to make.




​I'm heading north again but the only road is the PanAmerican that I've already travelled so I plotted a roundabout route to get me back to Pasto. That route diverts me around Ipiales and away from the PanAmerican for a day, maybe two, or maybe three and while I've no great urge to return to Ipiales itself I discovered last night that there's an Ecuadorian consulate in Ipiales. Christmas in Quito has a ring to it.

*A steep climb and interesting scenery - always a good combination



*​I don't think I've fully explained the logistics......
The land border is closed between Ecuador & Colombia. That doesn't mean that there's no traffic - there is - but it does mean its closed to foreigners.
It's possible to fly into Ecuador but a visa is required (as opposed to an automatic right to enter for X days). The visa is complicated with numerous requirements, the most onerous being a (Spanish language) Police report from any country lived in for the past five years. A tad complicated for me. 
It had been announced that the border would reopen December 1, then 15. Two days from today. 
The borders on the other side, mainly Peru, of interest to me are also closed. 

*That's Ecuador down thataway!*



​The danger of taking a quick hop into Ecuador is that I'm teasing myself. I hadn't planned on visiting Quito but I'd get to cross the equator! On my bike!! 

I decided to visit the consulate and see what the story was.
Well, they moved and didn't tell Google who have it in the wrong place. I eventually tracked it down and a pleasant Policeman promised to mind my bike. When I went to look for it, I realised I'd left my cable lock in San Juan! 
He wasn't being particularly generous because I never got further than the intercom. A very faint, but clear spoken women listened and explianed that there was no way to cross the border, not today, not the 15th and impossible to say into the future. She sounded very nice, spoke immaculately and only raised my desire to visit her homeland! 
The Policeman looked at me a little oddly as I started laughing going back to the bike. Time for a coffee!

I went to the second Plaza, more lively and sunnier than yesterday and got a coffee, had a smoke and a think.
Christmas in Quito was a figary and I wasn't particularly disappointed. In fact, it was good for me to hear from the horse's mouth that the border was closed and remaining so. 
I'm happy with my plan, rough as it is, but the opportunity to hop across the border into a new country, ride across the equator was too good not to explore fully. 
I finished up my coffee and climbed back on the bike. Another visit to an ATM and I'd set off. 

I'm still not sure why I did it, maybe it was the lock back in San Juan but I didn't continue through Ipiales and out the other side to bring me back onto my planned route, instead I broke the "rules" and rejoined the PanAmerican to cycle back the road I had travelled to get here.
It didn't make any sense but something, somewhere was pushing me to go back. So I did.

*Back on the PanAmerican! Panamá is just a distant nightmare.....



*​I set off in heavy traffic and was second guessing myself the whole way up a hill out of Ipiales. I could still rejoin my planned route so I switched it off. On a Monday traffic was heavier than Sunday but the standard of driving was better. I bribed myself with the idea of a second breakfast in the place I ate in yesterday. And I should be able to retrieve my lock! 

*This is looking different to yesterday....



*​Those positive thoughts got me to the restaurant and satisfied again (this time it was all women so one of them got the tip) I set off into a long descent.

The road was familiar but I was in a different world in terms of beauty. No, I was in a different galaxy! 
There was a ferocious headwind to make things interesting but the ride was exhilarating!

*It didn't take long for any doubts about doubling back to melt away under the bright sun*



​I don't have the words. Pictures will have to suffice. And for once they do a fair job in demonstrating what I was seeing. 

To be continued.......


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Two

*There was a clarity, a depth and a vitality today that was absent yesterday*
_*






Visibility was unhindered and I felt like I could see forever






By now I'm going downhill. What a road and what a view!







Without a care in the world I could stop at will for anything that caught my eye*_
*







Everything seemed so alive, so vital, myself included! There were whoops of joy many, many times*
_*








What an amazing landscape and what an interesting place to live!






An agricultural area lots of different crops on display







And a road that was constantly changing....*_
*



*​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Three

*Variety is the word of the day. Variety in the landscape, in the wildness and cultivation, in the plants..... *
_*








The side of the road? Amazing and oozing character. In the sun (too bright now to photograph properly) there was so much more to see than yesterday







Sometimes I swept through the curves and sometimes I just stopped to savour.*_
*







I had it all, even waterfalls*
_*







And a little río......








I had a big río too! 







The landscape never stopped amazing me







I wasn't in the least bothered about doubling back - this was a bright, shiny new world for me to explore







Who wouldn't like to freewheel down here?







If the "Big View" was restricted there were lots of "local" views. *_
*



*​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Four

*The cliffs draped in moss were an atmospheric highlight. The sun brought so much life to what had been dull*
_*






Waterfall*_
*







Trying to capture the perfect "cliff" shot*
_*







Still trying.......







Still trying.......








A lot of the time I was following the río








Sometimes the "Big View" was restricted.....







And sometimes not so much







Each curve threw up something new







Again and again....



*_


​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Five

*Still trying to capture the cliff. I just found the moss to be so atmospheric*
_*







Don't forget to look back!







I've become accustomed to flat, regular and ordered fields in NL. I'm not in Holland anymore






This is one of my favourite shots. There's a strength, a permanence to these mountains






And similar







In just one shot there is so much going on







Just so much going on......






I swept down here, hit roadworks and ran back up the hill to capture it forever....*_
*







Mountains in front of mountains*
_*







Can't have too many photos of cliffs!



*_

​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Six


*For once the camera is doing justice to what I am seeing!*
_*







It was about here that I really started to feel good about taking this road. It was familiar, yet so, so different in good weather (and downhill)







Two sets of roadworks broke up traffic so I had entire sections to myself. Just me. And this .....







And this







Roccado happy to be back on the PanAmerican







Looking back. The view on the other day was nothing like this!







That's my road way over there







There's a río down there!







I'm amazed at the work ethic of the farmers to be able to carve farmland out of the mountains*_
*



*​
To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Seven


*A little climb and I needed a breather*
_*







Dangerous Bends! Better and better!







No words........*_
*







Of all the places to have to pull in to let the traffic by 😊*
_*







My road way over there......







Looking back......







Now that's a waterfall!!*_
*








That's my road way back there!*
_*







That's why I pull in. There's typically a ling line of traffic and I don't need to be cycling when it passes by







I do like my valleys! 



*_

​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Eight


*It's not all about the big views*
_*







This is one of the great roads!







I've seen lots and lots of Colombian mountains but I'm nowhere near bored of them yet!!







Light and shade can make such a difference







No words*_
*







Should I be getting worried about those dark clouds? Hell no! I'm in no rush!*
_*










Thank you road designers!







Hack through a hill and the walls come to life in these parts. There is a vitality that is palpable*_
*








Moss overhanging the road. In real life this is spectacular!



*
​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Dec 2021)

Day 821 Monday, December 13 Las Lajas to Pedregal 52 km Total KM 14949
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2938
Total Climb 592 Total Descent 1436
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 25

Turning around and heading "home" Part Nine

*The other day this was blanketed in white cloud*
_*







The Big View disappears and the little view becomes colourful








Stopping to enjoy the sweeping even more*_
*







And stopping again because I really don't want the day to end*
_*







The end of the day. The sky would get darker and heavier until it would eventually burst.*_
*







I was home in Pedregal before the rain. Even this little place looked brighter and livelier



*
​I had not been looking forward to this day - the day I turned around and this Big, Big Trip started heading for home - but as is so often the case on this trip my fears were unfounded and were obliterated by the journey.
The Touring Gods truly do look out for me.


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2021)

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go!

Back in the same hotel in Pedregal I didn't have the same room. Instead I was upstairs in a bigger room with lots of sockets! Up a little after 4 I brewed up coffee, boiled eggs and had a decent breakfast. Unfortunately, I was in no rush to leave despite having a big climb ahead of me. I lazed.

*Pedregal early in the morning. It's a busy little place, deceptively so and there are certainly worse places I could have doubled back to*



​Finally packed up I rolled out into a misty, cloudy morning with patches of blue. I'd had a good look around on my first visit a couple of days ago but thanks to the changeable weather I got to enjoy different perspectives of the place.

*This sight had me thinking that I was in for a great day!*



​Setting off back on to the highway I was filled with determination. I'd 1000 meters to climb, all pretty much on the highway with a great shoulder, then I'd be turning off and taking a smaller road to Sandoná, another recommendation of my Colombian amiga. That section was pretty much all downhill, although I'd finish with a bit of climbing. An early arrival and a chance to enjoy a little Colombian town again.

*Is it just me or is there some magic in the air? That's where I'm headed to. Rarely in my world do I tackle a climb with such gusto! (Once I'd regained my balance after some mild vertigo😊)*



​My determination for an early arrival didn't last past the first couple of hundred meters! I had to cross a bridge, but unlike the other day, I had the "open" view. I took a pedestrian walkway beside the road and started to suffer from a bit of vertigo once I was out over the drop! Solid steel railings were in place (I checked them regularly!) but I still felt very nervous and at times dizzy. I did manage a few photos as down below two ríos merged. On the other side I had to sit down and regain some kind of equilibrium.

*There was something about the jumbled up, disordered chaos of this scene that spoke to me. And clouds! *​





It wasn't the greatest of days but neither was it the worst. The gradient was manageable (for now) and I stopped often for photos. It seemed like the countryside was saying "So, you're in a rush, are you? Let me see if I can help.....".
Low cloud hugging the mountain tops, the sun blasting through the cloud and an ever changing patchwork quilt of fields were all very distracting.

*Clouds! I love 'em! *



​Arriving at a toll plaza I knew that things were going to get tougher. I recalled this from the other day and well remembered the trucks labouring up. Before that though, I had to deal with five big dogs who went for me. Cowards they were, running scared when I stopped but they had gotten closer to me on both sides than most other dogs have done recently. That'll get the heart going for a big climb!

*I'm finding the patchwork effect of the country to be enchanting. It's so interesting to see fields carved out on crazy slopes and then to remember that all work is done by hand.



*​As I got higher and higher there was more and more blue so more sun. I was congratulating myself on my instincts earlier in the morning. This was a very pleasant day on the bike, climbing notwithstanding.

*Patchwork and a meandering río? Is it Christmas already?*



​The weather really seemed to be complementing the scenery and everything looked so good and so clear in the sunshine.

*Let's not forget the "small views"!



*​With slow progress and pretty impressive views I was in a pretty happy place. I was pleasantly surprised to find myself in good form despite heading away from Ecuador and not in the least bit bothered by the fact that I was re-covering old ground. It prompted me into thinking that a lot of Colombia has really been about the journey and not so much the destination. I've had lots of short days - although many with a fair whack of climbing - I've taken figaries and travelled on some wonderful roads when the main road would have been easier, I've accidentally knocked off the longest climb in the world (or one of them).
I know I'm repeating myself but I feel very comfortable here. I think that sense of comfort makes it easier to travel "in the moment" and make things up as I go along. I have a great collection of bike tales from Colombia. Very few of them are about places - they're about the travelling.
I adore México and think longingly of it but I'm thinking that for pure travelling enjoyment Colombia may be King - But ....... I wonder how México would appear to me now with more improved Spanish?

*A waterfall, a río, a winding road, loads of plants and trees..... And low cloud! Magic! 



*​Coming up to 10:30am I was approaching the small town of Tangua where I hoped to eat. A roadside restaurant served up a decent eggs and rice washed down with two coffees and a pastry for dessert. I had only 300 more meters to go and then I'd be off into new country. I felt pretty good.

*Looking back at where I've come from. I did that a lot today and now as I write up the caption for the photo do I realise that not once did I think longingly or sadly of Ecuador. That's the power of Colombia!*




​To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2021)

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go! Part Two

*With all that climbing I'm getting pretty high!*
_*







Roccado! Conqueror of all in front of him! *_
*







The blues, the whites, the greens.... Beautiful and (not for the first time) so, so alive!*
_*








Sometimes the sky was just phenomenal







Sometimes the trees require a pause and a bit of appreciation







Again, blues, whites, greens. The sun, so powerful in these parts, really can change things up.








Things can change quickly in the sky. 







Looking back on what I could have been seeing the other day - only I didn't! 








I definitely didn't have this clarity







Just......Wow! *_
*



*​To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2021)

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go! Part Three


*I was too distracted to pay too much attention to that grey cloud looming in on me*







*Sometimes I was reminded of Ireland - just on a totally different scale!*







*No words! *







*Spoilt! I'm a spoilt bike tourist!*







*The town of Tangua. *



​Unfortunately the weather started to turn and I had to don my rainjacket. It lightened off and then before the summit stopped altogether. On reaching the top I pulled in to a store for a rare Coke and a bar of chocolate - I felt like celebrating! 50km to go and pretty much all downhill!

*Off the PanAmerican, into the rain but what wonderful countryside! I'm not looking at it anymore - I've cycled right into it!*​





Then the rain started! And not light rain. The shop had an outdoor table with a roof so I sheltered there and wrote up some notes. The rain continued so I posted on Facebook. Still it continued so I dug out all my foul weather gear - a balaclava, waterproof gloves, rain trousers and extra layers.

*And coffee! I can reach out and touch the plants. I don't understand it but these are my "bliss" plants



*​Three times I got ready to roll off and three times the rain picked up again. Eventually at about 2:30 I set off in the rain.

*It's not exactly a comforting sky...... But not a feck was given*



​The road was quietish and my descent was peppered with short ascents which were great for getting me warm. I quickly arrived in the little village of Yacuanquer and was absolutely charmed by its Christmas displays. A little lad on a bike came over for a chat. A friendly place. I considered staying but decided to push on as the rain had lightened.

*Coffee country. I highly recommend it!



*​The road was even quieter from now on and I was slap bang in the countryside as opposed to looking at it over barriers. There were regular climbs to warm me up mixed in with the long descent (I must really start looking at Osmand in landscape mode)

*Sometimes the clouds teased me



*
​To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2021)

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go! Part Four





​It was truly wonderful riding! The countryside was so rich, varied and lush and it shone under the water coating it. There was nothing that I hadn't seen before but yet it seemed different - closer, denser, I don't know. Then to top it all off I was back in coffee country. Pouring rain, the ticking of a clock starting to be a concern and I was so happy and in my element. I couldn't take photos for long stretches because of the rain but I still stopped regularly just to absorb it all.

*There's a density of plants here that is unbelievable to me.*



​I had a feeling this morning that today was going to be good day. I was terribly wrong yet completely right!

Approaching the small village of Bombona I pulled off and steeply down to investigate. I was enjoying the road so much I thought I'd stay if I could find a place and really take my time tomorrow. Unfortunately there was nothing, nor anywhere to eat so I rolled out. Getting back up to the main road was Devil's work requiring pushing after the grade went beyond 15%.

*Parked up beside the coffee! 



*​I was a little concerned now about daylight but Mother Nature sorted that out quickly by introducing a heavy, dense fog into the mix! Visibility down to twenty meters and less.

The rain lightened but the fog came and went. I arrived into the town of Consaca and spotted a hotel. I don't know why but something didn't sit right with me. I didn't feel comfortable. I can't explain it. It was after 5pm (my latest time for being off the road) and the last 20km was nearly all climbing. I set off again.

*Consaca. A nice Plaza but something drove me on. That's not like me to head off on another 20kms



*​Between the mist and the failing light the conditions weren't the best and then my left foot and right hand started to cramp up a little bit. I'd get off and push for a little while until they sorted themselves out then hop on and up I went. Wet, a tad cold and having climbed 1600 meters I thought I could forgive them their rebellion. Cruelty was added to injury when passing a house my nose detected the delicious aroma of grilling meat and my belly joined the protests.

*I just ❤ these landscapes






What a road! 






Life may not be easy in these parts but it's a pretty darn impressive place to live!






I cycled past this guy and had to double back for a photo



*​The arrival into Sandoná was horribly long and the town was shrouded in fog. Heading for the Plaza I passed a brighly lit hotel that had a reception desk on the ground floor - a rare sight. At the Plaza I could see diddly squat with the fog and with cold and shrivelled fingers my phone was useless to remind me of my options. Also, the propensity to use lots of bright Christmas lights made determining the purpose of buildings to be a fool's errand. I returned to the bright hotel and was happy with the rate offered and the promise of hot water. The bike was the problem. Parked in front the receptionist could see it and had agreed that I could store it under the stairs at reception (lots of space) but then she changed her mind, instead telling me I'd have to take it to the 4th floor and store it there. I didn't think she meant it and called her bluff. Only she wasn't bluffing!

I set off again.

*6:30 pm - the latest I've cycled in a long, long time and I come across this well outside of Sandoná. (It's actually dark - taken with nightmode on the phone)



*​I found a hotel with hot water, a place for Roccado and checked in with relief. A hot shower and I realised just how hungry I was. The Touring Gods made me reject the closest places and as I bumbled around in the fog I found a busy grill restaurant. When I saw my plate arrive I knew just how right I was this morning - a great day!

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Dec 2021)

Day 822 Tuesday, December 14 Pedregal to Sandoná 65 km Total KM 15014
Min meters 1628, Max Meters 2774
Total Climb 1693 Total Descent 1670
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 19

And off the PanAmerican we go! The Towns along the way



*Yacuanquer. The characters in the Plaza brought a big smile to my wet face *
_*






Yacuanquer church







Snowmen!







Mother's milk is an act of love more than feeding







A Travelogue friendly picture of cuy on a spit.
This guy was part of the Crib display in Yacuanquer. Local scenes and characters are included which I find totally charming*_
*








The actual crib. Pedantic in these things I'm irritated to see the Baby Jesus is making an early apoearance!*
_*






A couple of photos to try to relay the scale of the Crib scene. This is on a different Plaza to the church and snowmen above, seems to be the area of civic offices and borders the road passing through. In all directions there are "characters" heading towards the crib - some recognisable and others, very, very local. And lots of animals! A wonderful, child friendly display.






Street art Yacuanquer






Different street art Yacuanquer*_
*






Celebratory street art Yacuanquer



*
​
In reality I should have stayed!


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Day 823 Wednesday, December 15 Sandoná

So I took a day off in Sandoná. It's a nice little town and I saw nothing, and I mean _nothing_ when I arrived in the foggy darkness. The church was a huge surprise to me the next day - I couldn't see it from across the Plaza!

*This is the church I couldn't see!*







*The interior with what I believe is the largest wooden crucifix in South America*







*These mountain towns can be steep! *






*There's a beautiful waterfall looking down on the town. To the side is a shrine, currently closed off. Out of picture is a row of communal laundry sinks fed by mountain water*






*Looking down on the town







Perhaps I'm just too critical but I find some of the lighting effects, especially on churches and other "elegant" buildings to be tacky. Here's a comparative picture *






*Looking down on the town*










*Street art *






*"Hello"
A lovely painting on a school wall*






*The weather can change quickly here! A wet morning gave way to a beautiful midday and mist and rain returned in the afternoon. It rained all night*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Day 824 Thursday, December 16 El Ingenio 7 km Total KM 15021
Min meters 1638, Max Meters 1769
Total Climb 148 Total Descent 165
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 24 Ave Temp 19


Sometimes it's not about the travelling, it's about the stopping.

I had a disturbed night's sleep and woke up a little groggy. It had rained during the night - I had heard it all but when I went out to get my morning coffee it had stopped.

I toddled back to the hotel, reclaimed my dry clothes that had been kindly hung up to dry and packed up. The hotel folk were very friendly and the chambermaid was surprised when I gave her a small tip for looking after my clothes. "You don't have to pay", she said. "You didn't have to help me", I replied.

Leaving town I stopped off for one more look inside the church but there was a mass on so I declined.

*This is truly beautiful country to be in. "In" is the operative word. I'm not looking at the scenery - I'm slap bang in the middle of it.
Yes, it's wet, that view will appear and disappear on a misty whim and I have to work damn hard to make progress. But it's glorious!*



​Like the run into town two nights ago tge run out was long and straggly too. On one corner at the bottom of a hill a pack of maybe six dogs were terrorising all moving traffic - me included. It's unusual to see dogs chase cars here, even more unusual to see them chasing motorbikes. Once I hopped off and started to push they left me alone.

*Am I taking a break and resting up or stopping to savour some of Nature's music? Who cares!*



​The sky was looking ominous and it didn't take long for fog and mist to start rolling in. It looked like I was in for another wet one, or at the very least few views.

*Banana trees so close I can touch them - but only if I want to get wetter.*



​I'd no real destination just knowing that there'd be some villages along the way. I'd see what turned up. A bit of a push and I'd make Pasto...... Again. A bit more of a push and I'd leave Pasto behind and head north. (I had considered doing the Trampoline in reverse!)

*Mist rolling in. It's both interesting and intimidating how a mountain as significant as this can just disappear before my eyes.*
_*I can't help but think what it must be like to work the land in these parts*_
*



*​There were only a couple of kms on the clock when the rainjacket went on. Visibility was minimal. It just made everything mysterious. The road was a bit more challenging too since sugar cane was being harvested. This meant that a gap was cut in a hedge above the road and the chopped sugar cane was dropped down to a mule, cart or truck below. The residue littered the edge of the road.

*This is farming country.*



​I hadn't had any breakfast thinking I'd grab something in the first village about 6km along. It was close enough to kick my hunger and urge for coffee into gear but still far enough away by a curvy, switchback road to make me question my decision. A steep climb up to it didn't help a lot either.

*Something like this can keep me amused for ages. I wonder how Ingrid and David are getting on almost exactly ten years later?*



​In rain, I turned off to visit the church and the little, bare Plaza.
Into the church with me to find two guys putting the finishing touches to the church's Christmas crib. I think a little bit of my heart got stolen!
It's on both sides of the aisle for a start so it's a dominant feature. It also has the usual crib characters. What it also has, which makes it spectacular in my opinion, are local characters - especially the guy making sugar cane juice. It just makes it so accessible to kids.

*The figures move! 
Mary & Joseph waiting for the birth and beside them not myrrh or frankincense but sugar cane! *






*The church. I was bemused by the detail of the altar under the entirely functional roof*




​With no sign of anywhere serving food or even a coffee I laboured uphill in the rain through the little, elongated village. Several decent sized restaurants, all closed now, pointed to a decent weekend business. Spying a gaily decorated hostel beside the road but down below it I paused and parked the bike against the low wall of a building. Time for a think. In the rain I couldn't smoke so ducked around the building I was at to stand under some cover. An older woman came out to me. Caught!
Dumbass!
I was told to bring the bike under cover too! Then offered coffee! Served with some bread.
I'm a long, long way from home when that is someone's reaction to a stranger lurking under their roof.
It sold me on my provisional plan. Stop here. iOverlander has lots of good things to say about the hostel, I am in absolutely no rush, I'm in beautiful country but can't see diddly squat.


*This one is outside someone's house. It takes up half the front and has a water feature. I would never normally do it but I approached the lady of the house to ask permission to take a photo. Not only was I made most welcome her mother (or mother in law) came out to explain it all to me, being especially proud of the water feature. A lovely experience.



*​I toddled down to the hostel and was made most welcome and given a cup of coffee from beans grown out the back. A relaxing day was in store.

*Coffee at the back of the hostel. *




_When I rabbit on about Cribs and the appeal for kids I'm not advocating the brainwashing or influencing of kids. 
Whatever your impression of Christmas I think it's fair to say that it has become very far removed from what it was. 
I well remember priests preaching from the altar and not being able to communicate with their flock, especially the younger ones. I love to see the effort to connect an incredible story from the other side of the world to local, familiar and accessible imagery.
I may not agree with the motivation but I can show respect for the effort._


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-60#post-6614499


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Day 825 Friday, December 17 El Ingenio to Pasto 45 km Total KM 15066
Min meters 1849, Max Meters 2636
Total Climb 1359 Total Descent 624
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 25 Ave Temp 17

There's always a ******* jackass

My impromptu stop yesterday delivered up one of my best night's sleep in a long time. Cool temperatures, an open window (my choice) no traffic and heavy blankets that pin me down work really well together 

I was in no rush to get up and out this morning. My plan was relatively simple. Explore the few villages along this road, enjoy the views and get a place to stay. I don't have anywhere I need to be by any time and I feel a bit cheated on this road with the feeling that I've only seen a fraction of what's on offer.
The only problem with that plan? Rain and fog!
A long, lingering breakfast was in order, boiled eggs, oatmeal and a big pot of coffee. First up was a hefty climb - I'd need my energy.

*Views came and went, normally went.*



I set off in the dry but it took all of five minutes for the rain to start. It would be an on and off companion most of the day. Setting off was fun. The steep drive up to the road proved too steep and slippery for a loaded Roccado so I had to unload then reload at the top. This brought two men over to investigate and heft the bike. Instant kudos for me! I made sure to set off uphill at a blistering pace to impress them 

*Road music!*



​I don't know what happens to me in these mountains but I suppose it comes about as close to the idea of being "one" with the world.
I love the idea of being in the clouds (even if that often means discomfort from being wet).

*Looking down on the clouds!*



​Throw in coffee plants and the almost ever present banana trees to remind me I'm a long, long way from "home" and the experience intensifies.

*The road through the clouds



*​The ever changing views (while standing in the same spot) are trying to communicate something to me - the message is getting closer and closer.

*One spot over a few minutes....



*​And the few humans who pass are friendly and welcoming.
It's tough, often uncomfortable work, uphill and down but I love it. I am totally self reliant. In the long gaps between traffic it's not hard to imagine that it's just me and the environment. Well, me, _the bike_ and the environment!

*A natural high*



​When the rain stops and I can feel the ocasional warm air that signifies the views will be opening up there's not a lot better than stopping and just ....... being.

*I don't normally do this but I wanted to record this experience and just how content and relaxed I was. Yep! I need a barber*



​At one stage, sitting on a low wall a Discovery Channel SUV went past and I had visions of them returning and my fame spreading far and wide...... But it wasn't to be 

*When I actually got off my ass and moved there were lots and lots of little ríos, all surprisingly clean and fresh looking*






*Sometimes I actually cycled!*





​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/
​


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Day 825 Friday, December 17 El Ingenio to Pasto 45 km Total KM 15066
Min meters 1849, Max Meters 2636
Total Climb 1359 Total Descent 624
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 25 Ave Temp 17

There's always a ******* jackass Part Two

I arrived into the bigger than expected La Florida after a tough, but enjoyable 15km or so and over 500 meters of climbing. I needed food! I located a place, put on my best puppy-dog look and asked about a breakfast. No problem. A black coffee and a big plate with scrambled eggs, rice, beans, tomato and the always good fried banana. Delicious.

*Arty Farty shot in La Florida*



​Having only set off about 11am it was late enough to look for a place to stay and the little town had a pleasant vibe. Unfortunately, my obliging cook informed me that there was no place to stay. Nariño, the next town along had a hotel she assured me. I set off again.

The overriding impression today was of the sound of water. There were lots of little ríos all bustling along whether through the rich, green, sparkling countryside or along the side of the constantly curving road. I've become used to the roar of water of late but today it was calming, quiet and musical. With mist and cloud almost everpresent and rain randomingly appearing and disappearing around every other bend there was enough water to make this a perpetual motion music machine.




​I arrived into Nariño, another busy little town, located the hotel and stopped at the church. The crib display was huge and intricate with lots of detail and figures. A school graduation ceremony was taking place - for primary students - and it was fun to watch. The students, all girls, were in their uniforms but the style was provided by the mothers. The Colombian mothers can really scrub up well!

*Even here there's a gentle tinking of water*



​I crossed to a bakery, grabbed a coffee and pastry and had a chat with the counter ladies. I'm thinking not many cyclists go this way.

Coffeed up I set off for the hotel and met a man at the door. Unsure if he worked there I asked him - the question was ignored - but he talked like he was. I asked about a room and he went from "I'm not sure" to "Let me think" to "No, no rooms available" over about 5 minutes.

It had been so long, so rambling that I asked again, requiring a yes/no answer. Agian no yes/no answer was provided but a long story about women. I asked about another place to stay - no problem there was another hotel in the "centre". I was in the centre - I could see the Plaza from where I stood.




​Reluctantly, I headed off to ask people - no other hotel. I got credit for my phone and tried to call - the only numbers I could find didn't work (it's not on any apps). I gave it a few minutes and returned but he was still at the door. My thinking was that he may be a local "character" and nothing to do with the hotel at all (reception was upstairs).

He was still there so I asked him for directions to the other hotel. He wouldn't give them. I said I'd like to go upstairs and talk to someone up there because I didn't know if he worked there. This angered him and he declared he was no liar. I pointed out that he told me of another hotel and no-one else knew of one.

I left again.

It was now 5:30, darkness would be here in 30 minutes, the next town didn't have anything (as far as I knew) after that Pasto more than 20km up and down away.




​I looped around looking and when I returned he was gone! I parked up, bounded up the stairs but in the lobby caught a glimpse of him on the next level. So he did work there! Feck!

I set off again, slightly distracted by what looked like a small motel beside a petrol station (it wasn't).

I came across a restaurant and asked about the possibility of camping but I was regretfully declined - they were setting up for a big party that would go on all night. No problem.

*The crib in Nariño*



​I arrived into Genoy in the darkness and spotted a Policeman. I waited while he conducted his business with another and he confirmed my fears - no place to stay. "Pasto", he said had lots of hotels. I knew that but it was dark, on unknown roads on a Friday evening.

*It's big!!*



​In true Murphy's Law fashion my ultra reliable front light wouldn't stay on. I pulled up, adjusted the wiring until it worked and set off again. Again it cut out. This worked perfectly on the way into Sandoná the other night. I strapped my head torch onto my handlebar bag and set off.

*The rather dull church that was hiding a fabulously detailed crib and some very well turned out Colombian mothers!*



​It wasn't as bad as I thought it might be. The rain had stopped although mist came and went. Traffic, as always, was very good and as long as I stayed out of the slippy edge of the road it was all good. Thinking of the obnoxious character in the hotel powered me up the hills and the approach to Pasto was on a better road than last week. I saw no hotels until I was into the suburbs so pulled up. My hotel from last week was full but Booking had another that wouldn't cost an arm and a leg. I pulled the trigger rather than spend an hour or more wandering around and set off through the city. Not in the greatest of areas I pulled up outside and had a celebratory smoke. I'd cheated the grim reaper - better leave something on the table for him.

*Not the greatest picture but trying to convey that the crib scene is huge, that is located in the centre of the church and that it dominates so much the altar is invisible*



​A ground floor reception meant I could push the bike in and I encountered another guest, an older man. On answering the question where I had cycled from there was a pause and then a hand shot out in admiration. It would be churlish to deny such a gesture, Covid or not and it really lifted my spirits.

Unusually for a last minute Booking reservation I was expected and my name known. The young man was welcoming, efficient and friendly and when he told me I could either take my bike to my room or park it in the garage where it would be perfectly safe he said it with such authority that the garage it was.

*Still a great day though!



*​I bought my first beer in weeks from him, got to my room, stripped and stepped under a piping hot shower.
An old girlfriend once put me in the shower with a cold beer after a crap day and it is one of the simplest yet most decadent, pleasures in life.

Home, safe and relaxed.

Chat? Yes Please!

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Day 826 Saturday, December 18 Pasto to Pueblito El Tablon Gomez*, 65 km Total KM 15132
Min meters 874 , Max Meters 2769
Total Climb 964 Total Descent 2239
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 23

*For Netman
Google 1.5662549, -77.3520635
Osmand: 1.56616° N, 77.35220° W

This is what happens when I try to plan.....

I was very tired last night and after food I jotted down some notes, threw together a quick route for today and fell asleep. 
I slept well but was still tired.

*The route out of town was either unphotographable or just plain dull. Instead here's some more street art from Pasto*



​It turned out the hotel offered a simple breakfast so I availed of it and retired back to my room. A quick once over of the route revealed a tunnel! Uh oh! I plotted an alternative, trickier because accommodation options were fewer and then started to get packed.




​Taking advantage of the big parking garage I set about investigating why my lamp wasn't working last night. I quickly found the problem - the other day at the hostel I had taken advantage of the short day to replace the rubber on my front brake pads the and I had inadvertently pulled out the wire to my Cycle2Charge unit. With that connected properly the lamp worked.
I also chatted to motorcyclist who was cleaning his chain. He's one of many touring motorbikers to be seen on the roads here, especially on the weekends.
Finally, I was ready to set off - a bit late but I was in no real rush - my target being about 35km down the road.

*There was an open area that seemed to be used as an open air museum.*



​Pasto threw some more art at me then I was soon climbing out of town. Traffic was fine and I had no problems. Flagged down by a couple in an SUV the driver told me my gps was wrong. How he knew that without knowing where I was going was confusing. We had a chat, I showed him my route on Osmand and he pointed out a couple of roads that I shouldn't take because they were so rough and steep - neither of them were on my route. I did have a laugh though and tell him that the bike and I had recently done the Trampoline and that I doubted my way could be worse. He offered to "lead" me but I thought that was overkill and besides, it was steep and I'm not the fastest climber.




​A little later, the same thing. A couple in a car pulled up and flagged me down. A Robert De Niro lookalike was more explicit. This was a very dangerous area! I wasn't to stop for anyone, especially motorbikes! (Ironic, given that I'd stopped for him).




​I was concerned now. I wasn't seeing anything I haven't seen lots of times before but the traffic had lightened off significantly. I wasn't going to be moving fast going uphill and the first guy had warned me of no road surface. 
The alternative was to go through the town, out the other side and access a type of ringroad and loop around this area. I didn't know I'd be going through that way either. There were no closer alternatives. 
Again, the good Samaritans offered to "lead" me but honestly I thought that might draw more attention and I had the idea that the bad guys wouldn't be put off by a middle aged couple in an old car, Robert de Niro lookalike or not.
Then he announced that he'd drive on to the Police, tell them where I was and they'd look after me. That was a good solution. I thanked them profusely and set off again. 




​Nervous now, I turned around at one stage then took some deep breaths and continued on bouncing slowly uphill on an undusurfaced road.
I couldn't believe that no-one had marked out this road as dangerous for cyclists anywhere. 
I quickly came to the summit and felt a bit more comfortable as I could pick up a bit of speed and see that I was close to where I'd get on the highway. 
Except there was no road onto the highway! It passed below me with no road down. Feck!
A quick look on the phone was no help but I did see a path worn into the embankment. Slippy as hell I got down in one piece, the bike too, hopped on the road and sped off.




​Now I could relax! 
A bit more climbing, join the "old" PanAmerican and I'd be in for a long descent. Oh! And I could do with a coffee.

*An aerial view of Pasto taken before my nerves got shot! 



*​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Dec 2021)

Day 826 Saturday, December 18 Pasto to Pueblito El Tablon Gomez*, 65 km Total KM 15132
Min meters 874 , Max Meters 2769
Total Climb 964 Total Descent 2239
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 23

*For Netman
Google 1.5662549, -77.3520635
Osmand: 1.56616° N, 77.35220° W

This is what happens when I try to plan..... Part Two

Given that I was going this way to avoid a tunnel it came as a shock to see a tunnel loom up ahead! 
Two workmen greeted me, wished me a safe journey so I assumed there was some walkway for pedestrians and cyclists. 50 meters after passing them I could make out the digital board - No pedestrians, No bikes!
Feck! 
A bit bemused I went back to the workman and he confirmed I couldn't go any further. Not a bit of an explanation as to why he so cheerfully greeted me! Then he took out his phone and called "Señor Engineer", explained my predicament and I could tell by his side of the conversation that I was going to be picked up!
I cycled on towards the tunnel entrance and another man c5me out of an office to flag me down. He told me to wait, that he'd call for a lift but I explained that one was already organised. 
Sure enough, a few minutes later a pick up came through the tunnel and pulled up. A young fella who had been trying unsuccessfully to hitch a lift through the tunnel was called over and we both got in the bed of the truck with Roccado and all my gear.
With the rear of the truck open to accommodate Roccado I spent the journey hanging on to the bike and the side of the truck for dear life!
Dropped off on the other side the driver was at pains to tell me not to take the first exit at the next roundabout but the second. This was a problem for me because my route was the first exit. The second had the tunnel I was trying to avoid. I tried asking him about the tunnel but he just said it was a better way for a bike.

*The Tunnel! A total surprise! Several kms long I would have been in a jam if I couldn't get a lift



*​I packed up again and rode down to the roundabout and stopped. Given that my "planning" had totally messed up so far I was reluctant to stick with it. But I didn't fancy hitting a tunnel 40km down the road and having to turn back. On my phone I could see a toll both 2km down the road. They'd tell me if I could pass. I took the second exit and started descending.

The toll booth was deserted! I continued on.

*Before the tunnel (and probably why I was more amused by it than anything) is the view back towards Pasto and the dodgy area. An unexpected tunnel is amusing after Robert De Niro tells me I'm in a bad part of town.*



​I'd left Pasto in rain. It had stopped as I climbed out of town and now it started again as I'd begun to descend. On with my rain pants and I continued on. The road was OK, only two lanes, no shoulder, a bit bumpy but traffic was fine. I sailed on happy to be making progress if a bit chilly. A couple of short climbs eased the chills. 

Chachagüí was the first town I came across and I desperately wanted a coffee. I ordered a coffee from one of the most unfriendly food ladies I've encountered so far. I also ordered some food but coffee was what I needed. While sitting the heavens opened so at least I had good timing.

I left again in the dry and continued my descent. There were quite a few places to sleep along the way (as opposed to the other road) so I felt no pressure. Views, unfortunately, were either hidden behind mist or non existent so not much was slowing me down. Out of the rain I'd plugged in my Cycle2Charge and saw that it was working normally. A simple bit of kit but rugged. I like it. Also, without the rain the temperature was going up as fast as I was going down.

*Hmmmm. The views are starting to improve*



​Not too far down the road were two or three villages in a row beside the airport. This was decision time. The descent continued for a while but then the climbing started and I'd have to climb 700 meters before there was another place to stay. I'd also have to deal with that tunnel. I decided to continue on. It was about 2pm and I reckoned I could reach my destination by 5. I also reckoned that if I needed a lift through the tunnel Saturday was a better option than Sunday.

This meant that my descent continued for a while. As descents go it had not been particularly interesting up to now. The road was variable, lots of small rockfalls and roadside debris made for careful riding, mist obscured the few views available and dense vegetation was pretty much all I saw. 
That all changed though! And spectacularly! 

*This is more like it......*



​Here I go again prattling on about the sheer variety of landscapes in Colombia! These were mountains but so, so different to the ones on the other side. Nearly naked they were bathed in different shades of green. Gone were lush, rich greens and in their place dry, pale greens. These lighter colours seemed to change the perspective slightly and made distances seem different. Whether rightly or wrongly, I had the sense of a great scale all around me. 

*I've done it again!! Pure dumb luck has given me this view!*



​The road improved significantly, even giving me a reliable shoulder - this didn't mean I went any faster, it just meant I could stop at will. And I did. 

*I couldn't put my finger on it, possibly the light, but there seemed to be a bigger scale to these views, like I could see further*



​The rain all but stopped and the mist disappeared.
Awesome, epic and the like can be overused but they are justifiably applied to Colombia.

*When I had no view there were ...... Compensations!



*​Things were going so well that something had to balance things out and an unexpected tunnel did just that! 
No "no bike" sign but narrow, a bit rough but thankfully not long and importantly, downhill. 
I parked up, scoped it out, put on all lights and waited for a bunch of traffic to pass. I hurtled through with no traffic on my side but the noise of an approaching car was deafening and disorienting. 

*Remember! This is the road I had planned to avoid!😊







Way,way, way back in the cobwebby recesses of my brain a clock was trying to tell me to hurry up. I heard nada.



*​My spirits soared which was just as well as the road turned to crap - rough, cracks and no shoulder - I crossed a bridge and began the climb. 

*Coming to the end of the descent*




​To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Dec 2021)

Day 826 Saturday, December 18 Pasto to Pueblito El Tablon Gomez*, 65 km Total KM 15132
Min meters 874 , Max Meters 2769
Total Climb 964 Total Descent 2239
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 23

*For Netman
Google 1.5662549, -77.3520635
Osmand: 1.56616° N, 77.35220° W

This is what happens when I try to plan..... Part Three

The road stayed poor and steep. Slower now the temperature became more noticable hitting above 30C. Spotting some shade I pulled in and munched on some bread and peanut butter.

*Crossing the river*



​Unusually for me, but understandable after the last few days, there was a definite knot of anxiety in my belly about making my target before dark. The sheer beauty of the descent had overpowered it on the way down, but now, going slowly it had all the opportunity it needed to set up home.

*Looking back on the tunnel. The road is still quite rough*



​The next obstacle was the tunnel I knew of! Thankfully short like the previous one but uphill. I was more cautious in waiting out the traffic and when a good long line followed a truck through I took my chance. Again, only one vehicle on the opposite side but loud! Very loud!

*I'm climbing on the right but descended on the left. There was a magic in the air with the lights and the clouds*



​I stopped off at a little store a little later for more liquids and a rest. While sitting down I could hear the "Google" voice faintly asking "Where are you from" in English so I turned around and answered the young chap in Spanish. That started an interesting conversation which centred on religion. 

*Mist was swirling, clouds were weaving, light was playing......*



​Setting off up again I still had a long way to go. Having never cared about climbing information before this trip I now use it all the time. At times it's a blessing, at others a curse. I can see my position on the ascent and sometimes it's scary and demoralising while other times it's "Oh! Look how far I've come!". Today was both.

*I took loads of these shots today using Roccado to try to give an indication of the scale of what I was seeing. *​





As I gained height the views started to open up again. Sometimes mist and the on again off again rain had an influence but barriers started appearing giving me decent spaces to stop. At one stage a glance at Gizmo showed me that the worst was over and that gradients were easier. That put me in the frame of mind to really enjoy myself and the confidence to pass a couple of "only in emergency" places to stay. 

*The greenery struck me






By now I was over the worst of the climbing and any anxiety was now lying in the bottom of the canyon. I was free to enjoy and savour*







*Mist came and went with every bend but even in the gloom there was always a bit of colour*







*The bravest tree in the world? *




​I reached the top just as darkness was falling and sailed down the last 5kms enjoying the reflected light bouncing off the clouds. I passed through a little village as the rain started again and followed the road another km to a small roadside hotel with a restaurant. 

Home! Feck planning!

*The mighty Roccado. Far from home and loving every minute!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (21 Dec 2021)

Some more orphan photos......



*These signs appear regularly during roadworks. The message is simply equality through better roads for all.*
_*








Where the road meets a bridge. I particularly liked the way the paint guys painted it anyway!









I have no idea! 









I've become used to seeing warning signs and evacuation routes in buildings for earthquakes as well as fires. In Costa Rica and Panamá they were also for tsunamis. This is in Mocoa - an evacuation route for the whole town after Mocoa was devastated by a mudslide and floods. It's quite chilling.








Evidence of an unsettled past. I actually passed one that was manned yesterday. 








Public transport! Driver on top loading the roof, the woman has just passed a baby inside after depositing a toddler. 







*_
*Religious shrines can be found in all kinds of places......








And in all kinds of styles



*
_*


The Renault 4! Not quite as ubiquitous as the VW Beetle is in México but not far off. There are old, battered ones, souped up ones and everything in between to be seen on the roads



*_​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (22 Dec 2021)

Day 827 Sunday, December 19 Pueblito El Tablon Gomez to Pueblito Estrecho, 70 km Total KM 15202
Min meters 535 , Max Meters 1259
Total Climb 863 Total Descent 1499
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

Back into the heat

Last night I investigated my front brakes that felt a little soft - too soft for so soon after being adjusted. As it turned out the "pin" that regulates the tension in the spring is bent. I tried straightening it with little success. I did manage to get it back on and functional though. It seems the Trampoline was tougher than I thought!

*A dull, damp morning. But exotic!*



​I slept well last night and dawdled a little when I woke up about 5am. Coffee would be available from 6:30 I was told last night.
Oh no it wasn't! Coffeeless I set off but stopped at a little shop for one. I'd a descent ahead of me and a small town about 15km down the road for breakfast. Or at least that was the plan. 

I wasn't on the road proper five minutes when the rain started. Light but not exactly good for views. It came and went for much of the morning. I pulled into El Recordo as planned for a much needed coffee and a couple of maiz arepas hot off the grill smothered in butter. Rain encouraged me to linger. 

*Dull, grey, light rain starting to fall but still pretty impressive*



​I set off again knowing that my descent was over and that I'd 40km to go to the next piece of civilisation, and probably longer than that for a hotel. I was also heading into a lot of heat. For the last few weeks I've sometimes been warm but never too hot. I was down to 500/600 meters above sea level and the temperature was rising. Unfortunately, so was the humidity. I find it energy sapping and feel it in my legs. 

What looked flat on Osmand (I *really* have to start using landscape mode) was, in reality, a series of ups and downs. It was like I was being toyed with. A climb to really make me warm and just as I was about to melt a descent to cool me down again. It was surprisingly tough. In rain there was no point in wearing my rainjacket - I was cooking in it. I may never eat "sweaty chicken" again now that I know how the poor bird feels!

*The road required a lot of my attention but down the road always looked interesting*



​Speaking of birds I saw one hunting a lizard by the roadside and losing. A sudden swoop caught my eye and I couldn't figure out all the activity at the kerb along the road until I saw a lizard make a burst for freedom. A couple of changes of direction flummoxed the bird who gave up then. A little bit of excitement as I laboured up a hill.

The road was a hodgepodge of surfaces, some excellent others verging on suicidal for loaded bikes at speed. Bridges were the worst with some terrible gaps between bridge and road. Subsidence came back too with a vengence, one sudden patch of unevenness sending me airborne. 

I arrived into the village of Mojarras and spied a couple of trucks outside a roadside restaurant. I pulled up and ate a soup and plate of meat and rice. It won't win awards but it hit the spot. I stopped a little further for an ice cream and to top up my water. All of a sudden a cold drink is something that grannies could be sold for! 

There was a hotel here (I hadn't been sure) but there was no reason to stay. There was nothing here. I rested up and rolled on. 

*Today's rîo is brown and in a hurry*​





The last 15km were a bit tough. Hot and humid the traffic seemed to pick up and my legs were losing power. The up and down nature continued, the climbs taking longer the descents way too short. 

I crossed a mighty bridge then started the last climb. About 3km from Estrecho the rain started again. I rolled past the one hotel I knew of into the centre and found a place for a coffee. 

*Sometimes I think I should carry a canoe



*​These roadside towns can be hectic places but the hecticness has really been turned up a notch! At the risk of being politically incorrect there are more black people in these parts, like along the northern coast. There's a different vibe here too. The music is different for a start. Food is different. Looking on the map there's a big patch of blue to my left - that'd be the Pacific. It is one of the great things about travelling by bike - we have the slow pace (especially me!) to notice these things. 

*Getting hot!*



​I checked in, had a glorious cold shower (last night I was shivering and whinging ) and set out to explore.

*Everything looks better in the sun!*



​Two bars, side by side, were pumping out loud music as people sat on terraces. Of course they weren't playing the same music! Then, across the road, another bar was blasting its own music. Audio chaos! I wouldn't like to try to sleep in the vicinity (there was a cheaper option there) but for wandering around in search of the soul of a place it was exciting and fun. I should also note very well behaved. Sticking out as I tend to do in these parts I felt completely comfortable, not always the feeling with large groups of people drinking.

*I may not mention them often anymore but landslides and rockfalls are common. It's the small ones that are lethal for a bike*



​There didn't seem to be a Plaza but there was a pretty uneven and partially waterlogged full size soccer pitch where I'd have expected a Plaza to be. A game was ongoing with lots of spectators and stalls selling food. It may have been a local derby because while some of the skills on display were pretty high the ball didn't remain in play long before a nasty tackle called a halt. This was a tough game played by tough men! 

*A straight road was a bit of a rarity today*



​I got something simple to eat then the rain started so had a coffee but eventually headed back to the room in the rain. 

*A big río!*



​Updating this ended up taking a couple of hours with very slow internet.

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Dec 2021)

Day 828 Monday, December 20 Estrecho to El Bordo, 27 km Total KM 15229
Min meters 597 , Max Meters 1004
Total Climb 467 Total Descent 72
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 27

Breaking the bike!

Any "what bike?" thread on touring fora usually has a debate about material. Steel or aluminium? Or even Titanium or Carbon? Weight is a big deal (clearly not something I subscribe to). 
A diversionary debate normally focuses on "repair in the field" and the advantage of steel for being repairable and weldable.
Unfortunately, that diversion can often meander down an unpleasant, bumpy road of technical jargon that leaves the person who knows feck all about metals, welding and all the rest of it but just wants to have adventures on a bike a bit ...... confused. 

Roccado was specifically chosen for two reasons - the type of bike he is means that there are clones (and thus spare parts) just about anywhere and the fact that he's steel means that in worst case scenarios he can be welded.

Today he got welded!

*Not a bad morning but views were limited*



​The hotel last night was modern but had iffy WiFi. An airco unit in the room made a lot of noise but chilled very little. A bit of a draft was all. I slept well. 

Awake at 5am I took advantage of a stronger WiFi signal to post on here (took much longer than planned) then packed up and rolled out of the room.
For such a busy place last night there were surprisingly few brekkie options so I opted for coffee and pastries. Then off I went into the relatively cool and pleasant morning.

*Lots of roadside trees today. In bright sunshine they offer the relief of cooling shade, on dull damp mornings they can mean the side of the road is slippy



*​I was looking at options last night for the Christmas period. All things being equal I'd like to be off the road. At one stage I was thinking Calí or even Medellín (by bus) but Popoyan is up the road and big enough to be interesting but small enough not to be lost. 
Then I had a choice. An AirBnB or a hostel? I want to be able to cook so a hotel is out. A hostel will probably mean other people but an AirBnB could be a bit lonely. That's what I'd figure out today.

*An unusually large herd of cattle*



​I set off into a flat (ie rolling) 20km and was shielded from any views by some very pleasant trees. Traffic was very light, just as well because the road was a bit bumpy and rough.
Ignoring the engine sounds of trucks, cars and motorbikes of all ages and in all conditions my morning sounds commenced with the sound of barking dogs off yonder in the distance. Later in the day most of the dogs will be having siestas but early in the morning they're at their most lively.
The dogs faded away and birds took over. Happy birds. Some sang, others chattered. None seemed to be mocking me which is always good. The birds, though, disappeared for a while when I passed a small homestead with a pigsty. Those pigs can really make noise! And it's not a pleasant noise - there's a screeching intensity that suggests animals fighting for their life. In reality, it's probably just feeding time. Pigs can be quite expressive! 

*A coffeeless break which was quickly aborted with the appearance and killing of a giant rat!*



​I stopped off in the very little village of Patia for a coffee but none could be found. Instead, I sat in the park for a few minutes but rolled out when a local killed a huge rat, the size of a small dog, with a stick. 

I continued on and just before the climbing started a strategically placed roadside restaurant offered up some scrambled eggs, fried banana and coffee. As is the way a guy came over to talk about my trip and was very complimentary about my Spanish.
Over my coffee I decided to plump for the hostel with a private room. It's a hell of a lot cheaper. With a phone signal I booked it adding my usual message that I'm travelling by bike. I hadn't left five minutes when I got a message back saying that they were super excited to have a bike tourist staying with them! 

I also decided to have a short day. The next town up has lots of hotels and instead of killing myself I'll take it easy to Popoyán over a couple of days.

*The sun is coming out now and things are getting hot and interesting*



​The climb could have been tough but I was in no hurry. Traffic was picking up on the bendy road so I pulled in regularly to let the bigger traffic by. Views became interesting but usually were through foliage. 

I arrived into the busy town of El Bordo and learned pretty rapidly that it wasn't a town for exploring on a bike! Turning off to investigate the Plaza I found myself with a lethal short descent then a bouncing ascent on a broken surface swimming with the motorbikes. I scrapped my coffee plan until after I had a room.

*A busy, chaotic, agricultural town*



​I was heading for a recomendation from iOverlander but stuck in traffic I caught a view through to the back of a swanky looking hotel. The view was glorious! The hotel, though, looked well out of my budget.
Nothing ventured nothing gained I pulled up and asked the pleasant lady on reception about the cost of their simplest room to discover that it was well in my budget! And it had a pool! A day relaxing? Sold! 

*A "live shot" of a chicken bus. These are much more common than earlier in Colombia*



​I got checked in, up to my room then back down to unload Roccado. That's when I saw it! The right, rear braze on supporting my rear rack had snapped off. Uh oh!

*The view that lured me in*



​Back in the room I had a cold shower and a think. Got my tork(x?) key out, my multitool and set off to find a welder. The receptionist again was helpful and sent me to the right where, on the edge of town I found a welder. A quick look and he said of course he could fix it! 

*Street art in the busy little town of El Bordo*



​It took maybe 30 minutes, the first ten minutes of which were just general chat and then he put his own work aside and gave Roccado the full experience. 
He spent quite an amount of time on it getting it correctly aligned and in such a way that the bolt is still removable. When he was finished and presented it to me for testing I told him he was an artist with his welding tools. It's a strange thing to see such a man, physically strong, dressed in dirty overalls, coated in sweat and grime from his work blush like a schoolgirl. 
I have no idea how strong it is - he says as good as new - but I can now say that I've had my bike welded in a small town in South America. 
And I still had time to enjoy the pool! 

*El Bordo - not a bad place to break a bike!*




​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (23 Dec 2021)

Day 829 Tuesday, December 21 El Bordo to Rosas, 42 km Total KM 15271
Min meters 975 , Max Meters 1780
Total Climb 1241 Total Descent 495
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 27

On the road to nowhere

I was awake about 4 am but the sound of a downpour sent me back to sleep for an hour. I got up and brewed some coffee and enjoyed my view. Then it was packing everything up on my newly welded bike and setting off. There weren't many places open in town for breakfast as I rolled out. 
On the edge of town I pulled up at a busy roadside place for a coffee, arepa and a fried ball of dough with cheese inside. They do like their fried stuff and cheese! 
They had eggs but due to the primitive nature of the kitchen of the hard boiled variety. The result was pieces of eggshells on tables and in the ground similar to peanut shells in some Dutch and German bars.

*I suppose I can't be having epic scenery every day*



​I set off again with more traffic than yesterday. I had a relatively gentle slope upwards for close to 20km, then a drop and then a steep climb of 1000 meters. If I felt like it I could do more climbing and make it a longer day. 

*Passing through a little settlement that won't show up on any maps I was charmed by the simple but bright space along the side of the road



*​It was a cloudy, dull morning with a poor road, reasonable traffic and very few views. I encountered two men on horses driving three cows along the road either coming from or going to milking. For all the cheese consumed here I see very few cattle. There's always a few but herds seem to be quite small. Two men, two horses and three cows doesn't exactly scream big business.

*Early mornings tend to be very, very wet, progressing to gloomy with showers and then the sun starts to burn off the cloud. To cap it all off Mother Nature supplies some wonderful waterfalls



*​These types of days are tricky for me in that I have no destination other than a roadside hotel or perhaps a small town. I'm only going there to get to where I do want to go to. Oh! Woe is me!

I pulled in to a little shop and had a cold drink before setting off again and into a steep drop. The problem with these descents is that I have to regain all the lost height again - and then some! I had climbed 400 meters would drop lower than I started and then climb 1000! 

*The sun makes everything prettier



*​Just prior to the climb and in no rush I pulled in for some eggs for fuel. The road was pretty poor most of the time. Subsidence was back in a big way and I often found myself cycling up (or sometimes down) a series of smooth "steps" in the road. The edge was often rough and full of debris with a nasty drop into a water gully. Traffic tended to be in packs so I'd often pull in to let it past.

*Today's río, brown and bubbly



*​The sun came out to play later and it really started to get hot. A headwind, a feature of most days since I started heading north, did bring some relief. But the most calming influence today was definitely the water. There were lots of waterfalls, most quite wide and therefore less violent. Lots of small ríos gurgled and hummed around me. I'd pull in when a line of traffic came along and as it faded away in the distance, the fumes dissipating and the noise shrinking to nothing the water took over again. It was really very pleasant to go from chaotic, smelly noise to ....... water tinkling. What added to my pleasure was that I had overestimated the climbing needed. Instead of a simple 1km up it turned out to be only about 800. 

*This one had a lovely, calming sound*



​It was with relief that I arrived into the little roadside town of Rosas and a huge roadworks operation. Google had a hotel on the far side of town so I laboured through the roadworks and up a steep hill, not turning down into the steep village.

*Up higher the views improved*



​I found the hotel and checked in to probably the smallest room ever - just big enough for a bed. No towel, no soap, no toilet paper and no toilet seat. Luxury! 

*Not the greatest of surfaces for a lot of the day*



​I washed up, changed clothes and braved the steep hill back down to the little town for a little exploration. Walking in the dark and the rain and through big roadworks was still more pleasant than my room! 

*Rosas*






*The Plaza came to life with the flick of a switch*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (24 Dec 2021)

Day 830 Wednesday, December 22 Rosas to Popoyán, 43 km Total KM 15314
Min meters 1374 , Max Meters 1935
Total Climb 970 Total Descent 1004
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 44 Ave Temp 27

Every Rosas has a thorn

There was a time on a continent far, far away that I did ponder if this Travelogue would evolve into a type of boring account of kms accumulated, meters ascended, towns passed and meals eaten. Boring in other words. 
Now, I'm not the best judge of my own efforts but I don't think most of this counts as boring and uneventful. Something strange, unusual, slightly wonderful or slighty calamitous seems to happen on a regular basis. Let's be honest, mainly calamitous  This week, as an example, I got my frame welded. That should be enough excitement for a while, right?

Ha! Dumbass! 

I got bitten by a dog last night.

_*It rained heavily most of the morning but due to my good fortune in getting bitten by a dog I managed to miss most of it*_
*



*​I'd taken a walk down to the town (on a steep hill, unlit, amongst roadworks with motorbikes not using lights) which was an adventure in itself. I'd seen the Plaza in the gloom, the old church looming over it, then saw it brightly and vividly dressed for Christmas when someone hit a switch. I'd had a bite to eat bought some chocolate and survived climbing back up to the hotel too. A successful expedition until two dogs went for me.
My first reaction was surprise but they swiftly got close and weren't backing away. One rounded behind me and got me in the back of my right leg behind the knee. 

A quick look and I thought that my trousers had protected me but back in the "luxury" of my room I saw that he'd broken the skin and drawn blood. Uh oh.

With no soap in the room I broke into my emergency bar (for a feckless sort I am quite well prepared) and spent the evening washing the wound, spraying alcohol and using an antiseptic cream. Literally rinse and repeat.

I contacted the hostel in Popoyán to explain that I might be needing an early check in and emailed the emergency room in the main hospital in Popoyán to enquire where I needed to go. The danger is rabies, something I have been vaccinated for but the treatment requires several shots spaced out over time. Rabies is not a nice way to die so I'd like to prevent it, if possible.
My plan was to get to Popoyán as quickky as possible the next day.

And then I slept.

*Today's río *



​The next morning I felt different. Google had shown no medical facilities in the little town of Rosas but asking my uncommunicative host he confirmed my suspicion that there was a small hospital here. Off I went. 

Twice now in the past few days I've found myself depending on the services and skills in small towns to keep me on the road.
Far away, at home, such things seem scary, stressful and not something to enjoy. The reality, though, is different. The welding process was enjoyable (once the welder had confidently announced it repairable) and while I wouldn't say my hospital trip was enjoyable it certainly wasn't the scary, stressful experience that could be imagined.

I was greeted warmly by a man who saw the bike and was more interested in asking questions about my trip.
Then I was plonked in front of a pleasnt lady who did her best to input my details and basic info. I now know that I'm 1.80 meters tall and currently weigh a smidgen under 70kg! 
Of course my data doesn't match their system and my insurance details caused many problems - until it was discarded as unimportant!
Slightly worrying was a discussion about the Rabies vaccine, the life of the original vaccine (three shots from December and January five years ago) but someone clearly went off to check it all out. 

When the time came I got a tetanus shot in one arm and two rabies shots (in one shot) in the other. Another lady waiting for relief from sudden and debilitating back pain was horrified at all the needles but laughed until she winced when I commented that I like dogs - or at least used to like them! 

Then there was the serious business of printing out my details and most importantly the schedule for my next shots. There are times when communication is vital, especially in medical matters and the nurse very carefully explained to me in three different ways that I needed two more shots on two specific dates that could be received in any hospital. Of course I'd had a few problems understanding everything up to this but the various staff I dealt with were incredibly patient.

Then it was through the bowels of the dilpaidated building to the admin section to finally thrash out the insurance details. My insurance won't cover something like this directly (and probably not at all due to the small cost) but my attempt to explain this to the overworked, stressed out man on the computer was ignored.
His computer was incredibly slow and it took ages to extract my insurance documents from a usb stick and in the end he gave up and charged me the princely sum of 40k - less than €10. 
In all fairness to the man once the "business" side (and stress) was out of the way he reverted back to pleasant and I even got a smile out of him.

I navigated back through the busy building to give my thanks and was warmly sent on my way. 
Up close and personal things that can be so scary aren't really all that bad! 

*That's my road down there (looking back after climbing)*



​I now had a 45km ride to Popoyán on an up and down road, mainly up for the early stages then a gradual descent but with lots of jags. The morning had passed with lots of rain and it was on and off for the first while and the countryside was hardly inspiring. But that was a minor complaint in the big scheme of things. 

*Not quite sure what this was - a bit of a band, several women with baby dolls and other folk in fancy dress flagging down traffic for money. Insistent but friendly*



​It was surprisingly tough going and as the day went on I was feeling more and more tired. Traffic was heavy which didn't help so I took lots of breaks. 

*Some nice views though. Truth be told I wasn't feeling very energetic*



​At one such break a character showed up armed with a shovel. Deep potholes on both sides of the road had been filled in with gravel and he set about shovelling gravel from one hole to another - once. The rest of the time he spent taking the coins out of his pocket and counting them over and over then thrusting his cap out to passing traffic. Because of the tendency for traffic to arrive in packs he was doing no business whatsoever and I took a certain pleasure in that. It wasn't that he was doing practically nothing it was the fact that he was making the situation even more dangerous by standing in the middle of the road waving his shovel about. 

*Road subsidence. Very hard to photograph and even harder to negotiate safely*



​Another encounter was with another touring cyclist! Venezuelan, he was heading for the border with Ecuador. Such things as papers, visas or closed borders didn't bother him and he found it hard to understand my attitude of not wanting to enter illegally.
Of most interest though, was his bike - a cheap front suspension MTB with 4 homemade panniers buckled and strapped on. The panniers were actually containers for liquid that had been cut to give access from the top. 

*Baby Bananas!*



​However, the best part of the day were the dog encounters of which there are many these days. I had no extreme reactions and there was no anxiety when I saw a mutt eyeing me up. I was more likely to stop than before but there was no anxiety anything close to what I was feeling in the US as an example. I had been worried about my reaction but as tends to happen the worry was for nothing.
Colombia is still comfortable.

*The shoulder, if available, was variable all day. Usually full of gravel, water or potholes it was also well below the road. Unfortunately, traffic was heavy and the lanes narrow. About 6km from Popoyán the surface improved.*



​With about 3km to go I stopped on the side of the road, exhausted. I had very little left to give. Hardly surprising, really given the excitement of the last 18 hours. I rolled into town, passsed the hostel and continued to the Plaza. 
There I met my second touring cyclist of the day! An Ecuadorian heading north. In truth I was far from in form to chat - just holding the bike up was hard work - but again this was someone with a basic bike and homemade panniers. It took ages to track down a coffee (no sugar!) and then I pushed through the packed streets to the hostel.

*The main church. Popoyán is known as the "White City" because most of its major buildings are white. It could justifiably be called the ruined city after an earthquake. *



​A shower, a trip to a supermarket for supplies and I made a tasty pasta dinner. Then the exhaustion took over and I fell asleep. Both my arms are sore from the jabs which made side sleeping impossible. 
A few days off are literally what the Doctor ordered. 

*Merry Christmas! *




(L-R: Costa Rica, México, The Carribbean, Colombia, Panamá, Nicaragua, México, Honduras)​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Day 831-834 Thursday, December 23 - Sunday December 26, Popoyán.

*An arty farty shot. There was no shortage of ruins. *



​I didn't like the town.
Now don't go striking it off any "places to visit" list because I think it was just a case of the wrong town at the wrong time.

*That there on the left is an entire block left to go to ruin. It is one block away from the main Plaza, so pretty close to the centre of things. It's striking to me that this could be left in such a condition for so long.



*​By the time I arrived I was exhausted, suffering the effects of a double rabies shot in one arm and a tetanus in the other and struggling through the throngs of people to get to the Plaza, a long search for coffee followed by another struggle back to the hostel was not conducive to creating a good impression.

*A shot of the Church/Cathedral with the Plaza. I found it quite a severe building, the white making it seem cold. Unfortunately, I never got to look inside.*



​A shower and a quick quest for groceries just emphasised that it was busy and tricky to get around. Then I felt crap for a few days - the after effects of my shots.

*A different church taken as I was leaving town. The bright sunshine, the blue sky and the white clouds really set it off.*



​It's a tricky town to walk around. An earthquake in the 80's has left its mark all over and while I'm used to broken streets and broken, uneven footpaths the combination with feeling crap and groggy was too much for me to be able to enjoy.

*The church from the Plaza. I'm not sure why the Plaza left me so cold. There was no shortage of places to sit and there were more trees than I've seen in a while. I put it down to the time of year, people distracted by the upcoming festivities and all the shopping to be done. A lack of coffee vendors did not help! *



​It's known as "The White City" because of the preponderance of white civic buildings. Unfortunately, graffiti of the angry, scrawled kind rather than the artistic kind defaced many of the buildings. It set a tone that was hard to shift.

*A ruin between two otherwise sound buildings. There's a veritable forest growing in there.*



​The Plaza, while undoubtedly attractive with lovely, old trees, lots of greenery and places to sit lacked atmosphere and a bit of soul. I've no doubt that it was a confluence of the time of year and my condition. Unusually, coffee was hard to find, street vendors concentrating on flavoured crushed ice.
Unusually, too, the church (or maybe Cathedral) was closed anytime I went past. I had planned to visit on Christmas Day but didn't feel up to leaving the hostel.

*A street view with an interesting and rare piece of street art. There was no shortage of "angry" graffiti but little of any artistic merit. It appears I've become an art critic somewhere along the way 😊



*​The hostel itself was quiet. Very quiet. A young, French couple spent most of their time away and departed on Christmas Day. An odd old chap was staying too. Very difficult to understand. One or two young Colombians appeared and disappeared over the few days and another French couple arrived the night before I was due to leave.

*An elegant building defaced (in my opinion) by the graffiti. "Hogar" refers to a home, digno obviously has something to do with dignity. There was no shortage of homeless folk around and I barely wandered away from the main areas.*



​One thing of note did happen after I arrived. I had a message from the Ecuadorian consulate in Ipiales. I had messaged them via Facebook when I was in Ipiales and before I had found their new location. If I'm reading the message correctly the border is now open to the likes of me.

*A bit of beauty in a sterile, busy and slightly angry place



*​
P.S.
In the previous post I omitted to tag Guatemala. The picture at 11 o'clock is from Guatemala 😊

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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Day 835 Monday, December 27 Popoyán to Silvia, 52 km Total KM 15366
Min meters 1742 , Max Meters 2605
Total Climb 1422 Total Descent 662
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 19

Making a strong push for Dumbass of the year!

I'd set my alarm for 4:30 for an early start. I wanted to beat the rush hour which my host had told me was hellish. I switched it off, dozed for ten minutes then got up fighting fit and went to make coffee. The Touring Gods were looking out for me with a bright, sunny morning. Wait a minute? At 4:40 am? Nope! 6:10 am. Oooops!

*Leaving Popoyán the road was decent and I had an excellent shoulder .......... most of the time. That hole is so deep that I could jump into it and my head would be under the surface of the road. Never a dull moment!




*​I had my big breakfast and chatted to a friendly French couple who had just arrived and slowly got organised to leave. Having missed the rush hour (just not the way I intended) I made it out of town fairly easily. This was my first time seeing the place in sunshine and it really does improve things. Don't let my negative impression put you off.

My plan was simple. Out on the PanAmerican, turn off and up to visit Silvia a village reccommended to visit then downhill by a different road back to the PanAmerican and head towards Calí, stopping where I like. I'd a quick look at Osmand which was seriously overstating the climbing required but I'd looked more seriously at hospital availability along the way. I'll be needing a third rabies shot on the 29th.

*Off the PanAmerican I was back into quiet countryside. I've been spoilt lately with epic views but this was a very pleasant reintroduction to the road. The contrast from hectic to tranquil was instantaneous.*



​Out of Popoyán the road improved and gave me a usable shoulder. Not exactly bliss but not bad since traffic was fairly consistent. There were a lot of rolling hills, lots of ups and downs and views were limited but the sun was shining and all was good. There's something about being back on the road. 

*A whingey, moany climber I did little today*



​I pulled in for a cold drink and to get some phone credit and experienced one of the problems of using a touchscreen phone with sweaty fingers. Opening my notes app to get my number I accidentally deleted the last three digits! Uh oh! That's the only place I have it written down. I tried calling customer service but that's all automated and there is no option for "I need to find out my own number" 😊. I tried to "recharge" online (they give internet for that) but they won't accept my credit card. Frustrated and about to give up I noticed my number displayed at the top of the page of the website!

I'd a cold drink, hit the road and soon came to my turnoff. I did have a quick rethink - straight ahead was easier and quicker but I saw all the traffic continuing to Calí and smiled to myself as I left it all behind. 

*Getting some height and looking back on Popoyán*



​Pretty much straight away I started climbing and the countryside changed. There was landscape with a small "l" all around. There were hills, big hills admittedly, not mountains. There were trees, shrubs and bushes different to previous days and pretty to make up for a lack of scale. The landscape was not huge, not distant, not epic but extremely pleasant to cycle through especially in the sun. 

Then I came to one of the issues of the day - a descent. Pleasant, certainly, but all those meters would need to be regained. I'd reckoned on a 400 meter climb by my own calculations so settled back when the climbing started again. 

Colourful, smart but small houses were placed regularly along the road. No villages or even settlements just random houses along the way. This is farming country and that was emphasised that every second or third house had a horse tied up somewhere around. 

*Now this is how to announce your town! You can see that it is still being created but that rain has caused the artists / workers to down tools. They're out of shot sheltering under big sheets of plastic over a simple wooden frame. In typical Colombian fashion the town is a few kms away*



​Dogs were a nuisance today. Lots of little feckers yapping and chasing. They look at me going past and then set off in pursuit. Their yapping sets off the dogs in the next house. It's just annoying. The worst example was a shock because it was so unexpected. A woman sitting on a high embankment was chatting to another at road level, her hand gently resting on a fine looking shepherd/retriever cross. The scene looked so peaceful I even smiled at the sight. Until I passed. Then the dog took off in the same direction as me, got ahead, turned around and came straight for me. A frontal attack is pretty rare. I looked behind but the woman was studiously ignoring the situation. 
I stopped, got off the bike and as is so frustrating the dog backed off but continued to bark from a close distance. Eventually he stopped and I headed off again.
I just want to emphasise that these dogs are irritating - nothing more. I'm probably a tad more cautious in terms of stopping than I was two weeks ago but there's no anxiety anything on a par with the U.S.

Up higher I was in pine country. It seems like ages since I saw Pine trees (but in reality not) and there was a wide variety of them dotting the landscape. I like Pine trees. 

I came to the edge of the town of Totoro where I needed to turn off. Tempted to stop for a coffee and snack I noticed the time - heading on for 3pm - and figured it wiser to continue. I only had about 20km to go. By now I had realised that maybe Osmand hadn't been so wrong with its calculations. Taking the turn off at Totoro I had climbed 999 meters! It looked like Silvia wouldn't be a diversion but a destination. 

The road was excellent! Concrete slabs with narrow grooves and practically no traffic. There was even a descent! Great riding through rich, interesting country. Then, with 13km to go the surface disappeared. Uh oh. Progress wasn't much faster than walking pace so I was delighted to round a bend and see concrete! Unfortunately, that didn't last and with 11 km to go I was back to no surface. The rain which had been on and off now became permanent. 

*Uh oh! *



​I had thought that when I skipped a snack in Totoro that I had maybe an hour to go. Now half way there it looked like at least another hour. In the rain. Uphill. 
If I thought bouncing around on bare rock was bad I had about 500 meters of fishtailing through pure, deep gravel. The bedrock was gratefully received when it returned!
Taking advantage of drizzle as opposed to rain I stopped for some bread and arequipe - I needed energy. 
Setting off again the rough surface distracted me from the gradient but it was slow, tough going. The perfect test for my repaired rack braze on.

*An interesting bridge on the edge of Silvia. The white pillar at the back lists the (three) visits of the "Liberator", Simón Bolívar. Every town records proudly any visit. Ironic given that I've read that at the time if his death he wasn't exactly popular. *



​It was with huge relief I arrived in the little town of Silvia and headed for the Plaza and church.

*Today's Río was intriguing. The muddy water wasn't brown, it wasn't yellow. A matt golden colour is the best way I have of describing it. I found it captivating, a golden río flowing easily through rich, green, sparkling vegetation.



*​I was the centre of attention in this very indigenous town. I grabbed a coffee and congratulated myself on actually making it here before darkness fell. That road in the dark?? Not worth thinking about. Then I set off to find some accommodation.
I had done no research having not expected to overnight here and Booking had one place that was too expensive. A big hotel almost opposite the Plaza was closed. I headed along the main street checking out the side streets. A large hostel was closed. Two different hospedajes ditto. I found a deceptively large hotel that had a tiny presence on the street but extended hugely at the back. Very pricey for what I got but beggers can't be choosers. I had a hot shower - bliss - and headed out to explore.




​Unfortunately it was dark when I got back outside. I paid a visit to the church wanting to see the crib but with a mass going on I grabbed a coffee, sat in the Plaza and wrote up my notes. It was damp and cold. When mass was over and the very few attendees had left I hopped up and headed over only to see the big doors swing shut! The Big Man / Woman wasn't cooperating with my plans! 

Unhappy with the price I'd paid for the room I opted to save some money on dinner. I bought an avacado, some bread and chocolate for dessert. Back in the room I ate avacado and tuna sandwiches. Surprisingly strong wifi meant I could enjoy some Youtube and I fell asleep later perhaps than I should have. (I was watching the GCN video of Backpacking in Colombia and thoroughly enjoyed it. I found it very realistic in terms of my experiences and was very satisfied (and a little smug) when they both commented about how slow they were going!)

*There's always a splash of colour. Going uphill the rain is fine since I'm not cold and it brings a wonderful, vital sheen to everything - except me! I tend to become bedraggled *



​So, after oversleeping, underestimating the climbing on a grand scale, not bothering to check the road in advance and deleting my own phone number the last bit of a push for Dumbass of the year was that all the cycling had aggravated the dogbite on the back of my knee. 
It's blatantly obvious now that constant pedalling will stretch the area where the bite is and a gentler, flatter day would have been smarter. But where's the adventure in that?

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (31 Dec 2021)

Day 835 Monday, December 27 Silvia

I had been very excited last night arriving in Silvia. It was another one of those places where I instantly felt comfortable despite being a clear outsider. It's a significant town, famous for a weekly market and traditional clothing still worn by the locals. A vivid blue, woolen cloak is the garment of choice and men wear a skirt to match! 

*Setting up for the market in the Plaza. In bright, clear sunshine the town looks so different. Under the tent on the left you can see the bright blue, woolen clothing specific to this area*



​I tend to get a lot of stares in these places - stares I interpret as curiousity and nothing malevolent. Last night pushing down the main street watching out for a place to stay and just enjoying the atmosphere two teenagers were staring intently across the road at me. Two male teenagers staring as night is falling would put me a bit on edge but here? Not so much. I raised my hand to salute them and called out greetings across the road. Big grins, big waves and a brief, loud conversation across the street and the motorbikes. Now everyone knows where I'm from! 

*I saw this mural last night but in darkness and with lights bouncing around all over the place it was impossible to photograph.*



​There was a lot of street art that is so common in these places but night time meant that I couldn't really capture it. In fact, had I not been thinking of a rabies shot and the logistics of the New Year celebrations coming up I could very easily have stayed another day. It wasn't anything that I saw, it was just the way I felt. 

*Just "normal" houses.....*



​I may be the slowest here but a quick test suggests that this will work.
Type murales + town into Google and click on the images tab. You'll get to see what I missed or can't photograph properly 😊

*The view down to a roaring río from my unusual hotel last night. I could hear the river all night long*






*The Crib when I could finally get into the church. It's beyond my ability to capture the whole thing properly but .....*
_*I ❤ the fact that it takes over the whole altar
I ❤ the backdrop for effect
I ❤ that there is always, but always a water feature!*_
*






Bathrooms with flying horses!*








*Two buses but how many colours?*






*L: Resistence, Revolution, Seed, Change
R: Peace begins with a smile*






*On a corner so difficult to photograph. I find the detail amazing*







*Public transport can be fun ....... Until it rains! And motorbikes! Everywhere! 



*​

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2022)

Day 836 Tuesday, December 28 Silvia to Santander de Quilichao, 78 km Total KM 15444
Min meters 1125 , Max Meters 2608
Total Climb 770 Total Descent 2176
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 25

I just can't stay off the PanAmerican

Eating dinner in the room last night had been such an uncomfortable chore that I abandoned my plan to make breakfast and instead got packed up to leave. Unfortunately there was no-one around to let me out the back gate. The alternative was to drag bike and bags up about three flights of stairs distributed around a complicated building. I demurred and went out the front door for breakfast.
Spying the church open I snuck in for a look at the crib. Fabulous! 
I had a mediocre breakfast of eggs and coffee and returned to the hotel. Someone was leaving as I went to ring the bell - I rang it anyway to no response. Eventually the old chap who checked me in last night showed up to let me out. 8 am and I was on the road. 

*Looking back on Silvia as I was leaving town. What an idyllic place on a bright, sunny morning! *


Colombia continues to amaze me! Compared to a wet, cold and dark arrival I was leaving in a blaze of sunshine - it was a whole other world! 

*Ever-changing Colombia!*


I was feeling a bit of pressure to get to Santander de Quilichao about 70km down the road. It's a biggish town with a hospital and I wanted to arrive early enough to locate the hospital and find somewhere closeby to stay. The sun, though, and the beauty all around me soon trumped that anxiety. I had about 20km of this road before hitting the PanAmerican - I was going to make the most of it. 

*Looking back on Silvia. Considering that it was only supposed to be a place to "pass through" and a reason to be off the highway I could have stayed longer. It's one of the few places I feel that I'm leaving behind, not properly explored....*


I had a bit of a climb before I could start my descent. A few kms out of town I came across the Welcome to Silvia - sign? Sculpture? I don't know what to call it other than impressive! Slowing down a few yappy big dogs got excited by my presence but a man outside a closed restaurant got them to behave. I pulled in a little later and walked back to photograph the scene. More barking! This time I was invited in for coffee by the friendly host as his employees got ready for the day. No payment would be accepted. Some folks have a natural affinity for hospitality work. Others don't. It's never too difficult to figure out who's who. 

*Wow! Just wow! *





*A little further back local symbols*


Setting off again I had a long, gentle descent that was almost perfection. The views weren't the best I've seen, the road wasn't the best either. It was just incredibly pleasant. I barely needed to touch the brakes so gentle was it. Riding a bike today was nothing like riding a bike yesterday! 

_*The Valley, taken from the (closed) roadside restaurant. Given a coffee and freedom to roam this was all mine! *_
*





This is tricky to explain. The wall is actually the side of the road and this is taken from a small path used by locals to walk to the restaurant (and paths to a few farmhouses from there) from a layby that buses use to pick up and drop off passengers. In other words it's all but invisible to the passing, non-local world. I found it stunning for such a hidden location*






*Silvia....again! From the restaurant*




​_I'm having q bit of difficulty with the new forum software, especially in relation to the pictures - it's harder to work with them in the new layout and I don't seem to have a preview function._

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Jan 2022)

Day 836 Tuesday, December 28 Silvia to Santander de Quilichao, 78 km Total KM 15444
Min meters 1125 , Max Meters 2608
Total Climb 770 Total Descent 2176
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 25

I just can't stay off the PanAmerican Part Two

There were a couple of climbs, long and hot but always another descent, each time getting steeper and faster. It wasn't fair - just when I wanted this section to stretch it was getting shorter! 

*A road that I didn't want to leave......*


I had a by now common conversation with a chap on a motorbike who was very animated by my bike. He had a friend, Carlos in Chile, who would be even more excited - could he make a video? Sure, why not?
We pulled in, out came the phone and I apparently became the talking equivalent of the Duracell Bunny - there was no shutting me up! I still struggle to understand what people are saying at times but I am finding it easier and easier to express myself. That always feels good. 

*The church in Piendamo. The Butterfly appears to be a common Christmas image, something I find exotic and charming*


Arriving into the town of Piendamo signalled the end of my pleasant road and I was vomited back on to the PanAmerican. After green there was grey, after fresh, mountain air there were fumes and smoke, after birds singing and chatering there were trucks and buses roaring, rattling and honking. After being king of the road for a while I was a serf. Another world, again.

*And this is the reason I wanted to stay on the smaller road!*
_*



*_​I'd a bit more than 50km to go, generally gradually downhill but with quite a few short, sharp climbs. I had a shoulder that was rarely poor so I was comfortable. And that's about all I can say. There was little to see and that probably was no bad thing - the road was busy in both directions and distraction wasn't advisable. 
The climbs killed me though! As the day wore on and I got lower it got progressively warmer and more humid. Humidity and I do not get along!

*There was some interesting scenery though and a sky that could be unsettling*


I stopped a couple of times, once for lunch, once for coffee. I could have stopped more often but there was a nagging buzz to get there as early as practical. 

*Lots of greenery.......*



I've often commented on the life that exists in these roadside towns and Santander de Quilichao could be the poster boy! It was chaos on arrival! The town is mainly to one side of the highway but it swarms over the two lanes consuming the PanAmerican with stalls, people, motorbikes, dogs and noise. The chaos continues on the next couple of streets away from the highway too. 

*The Plaza. Lots of greenery and places to sit but a stone's throw away and chaos reigned supreme!*





My information was that the hospital was close to the Plaza so that was job one. I found the Plaza - no coffee - then around the corner to the hospital. I spoke to a guard who told me I'd need "Urgencias" around the block. Once that was located I found out it was open from 7am. Now for a place to stay.

*The simple church*


iOverlander had a place but it was further out of town. I'd prefer something closer. Google showed a place and I set off through the craziness and the one way streets. I can walk to the hospital from here (I'd rather not leave the bike outside the hospital like I did in Rosas in such a big town). Home again.

*And an example of the chaos!*​






*Up close and personal with the Plaza.*



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

Day 836 Tuesday, December 28 Silvia to Santander de Quilichao

The Art along the way

I thought today was a remarkable day for the art so please indulge me as I try to document it here......

The "closed" restaurant that offered me free coffee had a wonderful, huge, painting (mural?) on the floor of a large terrace or viewing area. With the bright sun and little angle it was next nigh impossible to photograph properly. Just how it was done on a logistical level was a mystery to me. It featured birds, plants and animals. Here's Oso the bear...








The locals are very creative in announcing their towns and villages in these parts







"We are the generation of Peace"







"Mondomo is pure pleasure". Mondomo is a few houses scattered along a busy road but you've got to admire their confidence!






A very long sculpted mural (my verbal creation). Clearly coffee and the arrival of a train has had significant impact here. I think the detail, work and effort speak volumes and the focus on history is refreshing






The Plaza in Santander de Quilichao had some simple, three-sided, redbrick minitowers that were used to display the following paintings. The "tile" effect is only an illusion. In such a busy, noisy place they speak to a respect for art. And of course, not a bit of graffiti or vandalism.








































Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Jan 2022)

Day 837 Wednesday, December 29 Santander de Quilichao to Santiago de Calí, 53 km Total KM 15497
Min meters 988 , Max Meters 1085
Total Climb 70 Total Descent 135
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 29

A rabies shot for breakfast, dinner in the big city

I was at the hospital before 7am, chatted to a security guard and was let in. I spoke to a lady, showed her my forms and was told to take a seat. For an hour nothing happened other than the place started filling up with people in various states of disrepair.
Then a guy came over to me and explained that I was in the wrong place, that I needed to visit a clinic a block over. They'd have the injection but if not then I should return.
I located the clinic and joined the queue outside. When my turn came the woman explained that they didn't have the shot either! She told me that I could get it in the Centro Salud de Nariño but couldn't tell me where that was. "Take highway 11" was all she could tell me. Not even a distance. Mightily confused because Nariño is another state (department) I tried looking on my map apps but not knowing if it was in the town or somewhere else was not helpful. I asked for more info but none was forthcoming and there was a queue behind me.
I returned to the Emergency Room, was recognised by security so got back in. My plan now was to try to get confirmation of where they had the vaccine and then to go get it, preferably on my route. Calí has a population of 2.5 million. I didn't fancy trying to get it there at the end of my day.
I tracked down the same guy from earlier, explained the situation and was told to take a seat. A quarter of an hour later he was back, yes, they had the vaccine! Another quarter of an hour I was two thirds of the way through my rabies treatment and back on the street. This time there was no charge.

*I didn't even bother to take a photo on the big, split highway. I just wanted to get some kms under my belt. This was after Villa Rica and I was back on a two laner with a very decent shoulder. No, it's not exciting!*


I grabbed a disappointing breakfast went back to the Hospedaje and set off into the chaos Gizmo telling me it was about 10am.
I was a tad apprehensive having read of a cyclist robbed along this stretch but the road split into 4 lanes and a very wide shoulder. Traffic was light so I powered along as best I could. My goal was to get to Calí as quickly as possible. I had disimproved over the course of the day after my previous (double) rabies shot and the last thing I wanted was to be arriving during the evening rush hour, tired and a bit zonked by the meds.

_*Not exactly inspiring landscape in fairly heavy humidity. Moving, a headwind kept me cool but stopping was uncomfortably warm. That's sugar cane by the way!*_
*



*​I'm back in the flatlands now which means relatively dull scenery and a lot of heat and humidity. Gizmo rose rapidly from 25 to 33C but a very hefty headwind kept me cool.

*Today's río. The guys in the boat were at anchor and either dredging (unlikely) or harvesting the riverbottom*


Coming to the town of Villa Rica the road split and my four laner reverted to two lanes with a narrower (but far cleaner) shoulder. This was where the traffic really picked up and with more than 30km to go I was just a cork bobbing along in a surging río of traffic that lasted the whole way to my hotel.

_*No shoulder and a whole lot busier. *_
*



*​I lost the shoulder with about 20km to go which made for an interesting approach to the city! It wasn't pleasant but in all fairness the traffic was fine even if the motorbikes passed a little too close for comfort. It's a long time since I've travelled in traffic like this for such a sustained distance.

_*I'm not a fan of big city riding but with a bit of patience it was actually ok*_
*



*​Gizmo directed me off the main artery to the centre and after negotiating a flyover or two picked up a cycle path that in typical Colombian fashion came and went. To add to the fun a few heavy drops of rain started falling from the angry, grey sky and thunder started rolling. I'd half thought about heading for the centre first just to scope things out but the sky encouraged me to head straight for my hotel.

*A pretty decent cycle path helped*


With about 1km to go the rain became heavier but I pushed on and arrived at the hotel. As I was checking in the heavens opened. Luck, it seems, is still on my side!

_*There is always an interesting tree!*_
*



*​A few days off in the "big city" to pass the New Year celebrations and give the bite a chance to recover some more. I think I've underestimated it with my focus on the rabies shots. When I leave I'll be heading back into coffee country and more climbing. 

I'm going to try to track down a homestay / Workaway place where I'll get a place to stay in return for labour. A coffee farm sounds idyllic😊


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (4 Jan 2022)

Days 838 - 841 Thursday December 30, 2020 - Sunday January 02, 2020, Santiago de Calí

I was out of practice. I didn't recognise the approach. The question "American?", the falling into step with me, the subsequent questions and general chatter then the "Cocaine?". I was actually shocked - I'd forgotten all that along the way - and appalled. He quickly stopped his offerings - there must have been something in my tone - and left me alone but not in peace. I was disproportionately angry and it took me a while to figure out just why.
It's because now I have to be sceptical of everyone I meet- again. Here, the odds are that a chance conversation with a random stranger is neither chance nor random. And when I leave this metropolis of 2,5 million people it will take a time to readjust to the smaller places and I know I'll have to detox before I feel as comfortable again. 
Something was stolen from me in that interaction - my comfort. 
Welcome to Calí.

*Calí is the Salsa Capital of the world. There were a lot of these characters knocking around*


I'm not the biggest fan of big cities and as time rolls by and I get older and grumpier I seem to like them less and less. Or maybe, just maybe, I got to live in one of the great metropolises of this world and am spoilt and corrupted for ever more. 

*The Main Plaza. Beautiful Palm trees but quite small and disappointing. It may just be the time of year*
_*



*_​My Colombian Guide book isn't great when it comes to Calí just listing hostels and restaurants. Google Maps showed me the museums (all closed - now there's a surprise!) and besides, I'm here for a few days, am in no rush and wandering is my preferred method of exploration.

*A church at the Main Plaza. This was a real problem for me - so many interesting buildings were located in enclosed places and narrow streets that it was difficult to appreciate them*


Now, I was doing my wanderings just before and after New Year which ocurred at the end of the Calí "Fair", an annual festival with lots of open air parties and performances so my timing was off to experience the real Calí. It also coincided with public warnings of an overstretched health system! 

*The río Calí with the famous and striking La Ermita church in the distance *


I'm a 90 minute walk from the historic centre of Calí, a walk that is never boring with lots of art, crazy traffic and the possibility to detour through a couple of different neighbourhoods. Not a walk for the dark though. 

*The Artesenal Park Loma de Cruz. It looked interesting but was pretty much abandoned for my time in the city. Located at the edge of the touristy San Antonio district which was itself pretty dead too.*


The truth is that Calí, to me, seems to be made up of separate and disparate villages that a big city has grown around. The historic centre is actually quite small and unimpressive. Apart from a few significant buildings and a so-so Plaza it quickly becomes just another crazy Colombian town.
With a lot of poverty.

*There is an incredible amount of Street Art and graffiti everywhere. It is quite overwhelming. *
_*



*_​There are homeless people everywhere, often sleeping right through the day on the footpath. The stench of urine can be overpowering at times in some underpasses. Indeed, the stench from some of these people can be just as overpowering. 
My hotel is in a "good area" on a street of well to do houses and businesses. The next street over though a man has pitched his tent and is living there, a discarded armchair outside his tent. 
The río Calí that runs through the centre and has a park or a path along most of it is home for a lot of folk. Taking a photo that doesn't include some homeless people is difficult. It's also a place for them to wash, a weir further out of the city proving a popular laundry and washing spot. Requests for money match requests for food in popularity, a surprisingly evocative request. 

*A Plaza/Park close to where I was staying. For most of the time it was empty.*​




I tried my best to "like" Calî but I was finding it difficult. Other than my first day exploring most businesses were shut so even getting a coffee could be a chore. Sitting over a coffee and watching the world go by is a great way to get a feel for that world and I was missing out. 

*I liked this. It appears to be the Three Wise Men (Mary, Joseph and a baby are further along) but included is a baker!*





*An unusual looking horn. There's actually music coming out of it!*





*A different angle on La Ermita. There's a lot going on in this scene and it sums up Calí for me; the interesting things are hard to pick out*





​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (4 Jan 2022)

Days 838 - 841 Thursday December 30, 2020 - Sunday January 02, 2020, Santiago de Calí

Part Two

On my last day wandering around it finally dawned on me what the problem was - there was nothing luring me along. 
Normally when wandering I see something interesting and head for it. I'll see something else (or someone) and change direction and soon I've little idea of where I am but there is always something new to draw me in a particular direction. I could walk 30 or 40 kms in a day in CDMX in such a fashion and never feel tired.
Not here. 
There's lots of street art and graffiti but so much as to be almost overpowering. The most visible architecture is dull and uninteresting. The interesting architecture is hidden in enclosed Plazas or narrow streets. Even the most prominent landmark, a snow white church that looks like something from a fairy tale is a bit dilapidated up close and personal - better appreciated from afar. 

*A bus stop. Don't generalise. Do you believe everything you hear about Venzuelans in Colombia? Discover the real stories!*


Calí is the Salsa capital of the world and there are no shortage of places offering lessons - at least at other times of the year. I don't think I'd have been signing up for lessons anyway. My poor heart is still set on learning the Tango in Argentina (someday) and like languages, I can really only handle one at a time😊

_*This is a regular house's crib! *_


Closed shops, cafés and restaurants mean that there are less people about and without people I can't get a feel for the place. The few people I've interacted with in stores and a café are very friendly and helpful yet the staff in the hotel, a step up from my usual standards, are sullen, unhelpful and sometimes downright rude. 

*The San Antonio neighbourhood. Narrow, steep streets and some interesting buildings*
_*



*_​I did stop at a burger place, the kind of place that I'd normally avoid, partly because there were few places open and partly because I felt a little sorry for a young, very timid waitress who had been despatched to the street to drum up business. 
It was a fabulously interesting little place with a slightly mixed up 80's theme incorporating American and British decorations. An old US gas pump and the toilet was in a old UK phonebox. Giant Rubik's cubes were used as tables and the musical themed menu (I had an Aerosmith burger) was presented on an old record. Great, quirky detail. I could even ignore the Union Jacks emblazoned all around. 
My poor waitress seemed stunned that she had a customer and was clearly very nervous. No doubt she was too shy to object when she was sent out on the street to drum up business. 
I complimented her on the theme, told her I loved the menu and got very excited when the napkin holder arrived on the table - made from three cassettes! She proudly explained to me what they were, "for music" she added helpfully making me feel very, very old!

*Calí skyline*


Conversation was slow, starting with a "Where are you from" and slowly building up as I told the story of my journey. There's something very rewarding about watching someone take on board the details and a light coming into their eyes. The conflict between a natural shyness and an expanding curiousity was amusing and a little heartwarming to watch since the curiosity was winning. 

*The church in San Antonio. Up a big hill and sorrounded with a park that always had some activity. Simple and basic I much preferred it to the ornate La Ermita.*


Here's the thing. In a big city, especially one slap bang in the middle of New Year's festivities loneliness is the issue. Human contact is rare. The festivities late at night aren't for single people, or at least not this one. I had hoped there'd be enough going on to distract me but that was dashed early on. My hotel room was modern but tiny and wifi was variable. Being out and about wasn't great but neither was being "at home". 
More evidence to back up the charge of the world's worst tourist 

*The mountains are not far away and parts can be very hilly*
_*



*_​I did get my beard trimmed since the Grizzly Adams look is not comfortable in this heat and replaced the chain on my bike. I snapped up a new cassette as well while I had the chance but haven't needed to use it. 

_*I did like this mysterious building*_






*Who does vandalism of the public transport benefit?*






*The Park below the church in San Antonio. Feeling pretty uninspired and unenthused I passed a very pleasant afternoon here reading my book.😊*






*Some interesting architecture and colours*



​
To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (4 Jan 2022)

Days 838 - 841 Thursday December 30, 2020 - Sunday January 02, 2020, Santiago de Calí

Part Three

The graffiti artists of Calí claim that it is the centre of the resistance. A lot, and I mean a lot of the art and graffiti is political. Here's some of it.....


*Stop the genocide*






*Johnny lives! The struggle goes on*








*For the sake of humanity get Trump/Pence out already*







*With your insults to homosexuals* I build a world of colours*




* I've cleaned up the language even though I prefer the original



*Look at how beautiful my Calí becomes at peace*






_*82,998 people disappeared.*_
*



*




_*No fans of the Police*_
*






For context, heavy handed Police action against someone accused of selling alcohol to minors over New Year's inspired thousands to riot in a suburb of Calí*







*If you, the youth, don't assume the running of your country nobody will save you (or possibly it - the country).*







_*The most powerful of all. I'll leave it to you to figure out. *_
*



*
​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2022)

Day 842 Monday, January 03, 2022 Santiago de Calí to Buga, 76 km Total KM 15573
Min meters 973 , Max Meters 1061
Total Climb 324 Total Descent 308
Min Temp 26 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 28

Ooooh! That back on the road feeling!!! 
Sometimes you just gotta put your faith in the road - it'll deliver.

There was no point being up too early. Thundering rain was falling about 5:30 am and breakfast (included in the price) only took an hour to organise - that was good because yesterday it took two.
I was going to head towards Buga, a town renowned for being pretty, and I had three options;
The obvious one was on the Pan American. Big road big traffic. The second was a smaller road along the foothills of the mountains passsing through a few towns and villages. The third and final was into those mountains. There's a lake that way that I may pay a visit to but I do need to be careful of not getting too close to Puerto Buenaventura - that's a bit of a crime hotspot. This morning I opted for the road through the foothills. I wanted towns. Small ones. 
I opted for a car route to get me out of Calí. The news this morning was of riots (involving thousands) over the weekend and I didn't fancy venturing far off the main roads as a bike route would do.
Route chosen I loaded up and set off.

*Street art in Yumbo. There was something very bright and vivid that stopped me in my tracks and mafe me take out the camera for the first time.*


With time off for Christmas and New Year I haven't been feeling like a bike tourist for a while. Throwing my leg over and pushing off I became aware of fluttering in my belly and welcomed the little waves of "back on the road" excitement. 
Those gentle little waves became a maelstrom, an out of control twister when I entered a tunnel and found myself in the middle lane of five when two more merged with my road. Oh dear! It was not pleasant but in fairness a yellow cab (of the type I have been so disparaging) stayed behind me for most of the way and shielded me. When they changed lanes near the exit the next car was just as kind. After that I could utilise a bike path (and received lots of kudos from other utilitarian cyclists) for most of the way and 10km after setting off I was out in the countryside and smiling.

*Not a bad road at all and with a decent shoulder once Calí was left far behind. There were some very interesting trees all along the way*


I had a shoulder that at times was perfection and at other times was full of mud or debris but I was in no rush now. Tunnel aside, the exit of Calí was relatively swift and smooth. 

Coming up to the town of Yumbo I was humming and hawing. There was about 20km on the clock but it felt too early to stop. I'd earmarked Vijes, another 20km further along for a stop. After all my time in the mountains an 80km day can seem very long and I'd only covered a quarter of that distance so far. The smart thing would be to stick to the plan and stay on the road. But..... my touring head wasn't sitting right. I turned off.
It didn't take long at all. Parked up in the Plaza, a coffee in hand from the ever present bakery I was engaged by one, then another of the motorbike taxi men and then soon all the bike and car drivers. 
I pulled up a stranger in a strange town and in minutes I'm chatting and laughing and joking with the locals. Touring head locked on! 

*Not exactly inspiring but certainly pleasant to cycle along. In truth it was great to be zipping along at a reasonable pace after so long slogging it out in the mountains*


I set off again now heading for Vijes, about another 20km down the road. I was flying along the heat and humidity tempered by a decent headwind and my own speed. It's great to be pedalling and eating up the kms. Good for the soul. 

*On the far side of those hills there's a lake, Colima Lago. That's a speed trap van on the side of the road*



​Vijes was smaller and neater than Yumbo and my human interaction came from my coffee lady instructing her young, hesitant colleague to squeeze the last of the coffee from the flask. 

*An unusual roadside memorial. I saw something celebratory in it. It reminded me of México*


Then back on the road again. 40 klicks done, more than half way there. And another town 30km down the road if I want it. 
The scenery was interesting and varied if not spectacular. The road was rolling, the climbs surprisingly steep and slow meaning I felt the heat but the descents were fast and cool. Traffic had lightened significantly a little after Yumbo where there was a turn off to the airport and I think a connection to the Pan American. 

*Río Cauca which gives its name to this entire valley. That "island" is actually floating downriver*





The only problem now with the traffic was the high proportion of garbage trucks and trucks carrying garbage (not the same at all!). The stink was unbearable. That slightly sweet, cloying smell of rottting refuse filled my nose and was so pungent I thought I could taste it. It had been an issue since the outskirts of Calí but it took me a while to figure out the source and now, in open countryside with a stiff breeze it seemed stronger. Thankfully after 25km I came across a dump and lost the trucks travelling in my direction, only having to deal with (a lot less) coming from the other direction.

*Not epic but certainly interesting and pleasant*



With about 60km on the clock I came upon the town of Yotoco just as some heavy raindrops started to fall. With a blue sky ahead I decided to push on to Buga, now about 15km away. My road merged with another linking the port of Buenaventura and traffic picked up significantly but I had my shoulder. The rain stayed, but light and it was so warm and windy there was no point in putting on my rain jacket.

*Sometimes there were glimpses worth stopping for*


On arrival in Buga I headed for the Plaza and had a coffee. My coffee lady did a variation of where I was from by asking what language I spoke and I wasnt a mouthful into my coffee when a man was over to chat about my trip. I had no idea where I was going to sleep but I knew I was home. Small town Colombia - it's feckin' great! 

_*Lots of trees with character. On a sunny day they would be a godsend*_
*






More trees!*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (5 Jan 2022)

Day 842 Monday, January 03, 2022 Buga

I tried to locate a hostel mentioned a few years ago on iOverlander but failed to locate it. There's no shortage of hotels though, so picking one at random I made an enquiry. A decent secure courtyard for the bike, a functional room with a fan for me and I decided to take it. I might be able to save myself a couple of Euros by hitting up a few more but I was filled with an urge to explore. I checked in, had a cold shower and set off.

*A park on the edge of town that I had all to myself!*


Buga is a prosperous town evident by how long it took me to find a place to get credit for my phone. And it has a lot of churches! It's a lot less chaotic than the towns of late and invited exploration. It didn't disappoint either. 

_*A typical street in the town. Neat, orderly, paved. One of the easiest towns to walk in for quite a while*_
*



*​It is one of the oldest towns in Colombia, at one stage was the place for the wealthy Spanish settlers to .... settle and these days recieves about three million pilgrims annually.

_*One of the oldest towns in Colombia and a base for wealthy Spaniards it has some interesting architecture*_
*



*​It's calmer than most places of late and walking is easy - the streets are paved and in excellent condition, the footpaths the same. Relatively flat there are no dizzying heights either. Civilised is the word that comes to mind.

*A wonderful, soulful and spooky tree in the main Plaza*


A long queue to enter a church piqued my curiosity (not enough to join it though) but I continued my rambling to an almost empty park beside a river. Captivated by a huge, powerful tree I crossed the road and met an unofficial guide who took it upon himself to explain about the tree (more than 650 years old!) in some detail. Friendly and with no intention of looking for a reward for his explanations it was a very pleasant experience. 

_*An open air crib beside the basilica.*_
*



*​I toddled down the road and climbed the "lighthouse" a local monument that gave views over the city. Then along the river and a pleasant riverside park. I was thoroughly enjoying myself.

_*The mighty tree! I may just have to accept the fact that I appear to be incapable of capturing a tree with any kind of accuracy. This tree gave off an aura of power, of strength. It was tangible. After wandering around Calí searching for something, anything to draw me along I found what I was looking for up the road.*_
*My impromptu guide is sitting under it chatting to another guy on the motorbike.*


I meandered back to the main Plaza and had another coffee my young coffee lady instantly recognising me in my street gear and instructing her colleague how I liked my coffee - large, black and with sugar. 
The Plaza was thronged and it was just comfortable sitting and soaking.

*An aerial view of the town*


More wandering, then a disappointing bite to eat then off for a final coffee and slice of cake at a bakery. More chatting and fun with the girls serving as I stumbled over the name of the pastry.

*A crib scene along the Río. What's amazing to me is the delicacy of the figures and not a trace of any vandalism.*


Rain had cleared the Plaza so when I was finished my coffee I had it all to myself to write up my notes.

*There wasn't a lot of street art but what there was was pretty good*



​I'm back on the road and it feels great! 

*The famous Basilica and end point for millions of pilgrims every year. I'm probably far too snobby but I'm appalled by the night time lights that change colour*



​As it turned out that queue at the Basilica was for a painting of Christ, reputed to have miracle granting qualities. Thanks Wikipedia! 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jan 2022)

Day 843 Tuesday, January 04, 2022 Buga to Andalucía, 41 km Total KM 15614
Min meters 991 , Max Meters 1048
Total Climb 144 Total Descent 136
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 31

I'm an ungrateful bike tourist whinging about the Pan American!

I like a hard mattress but last night's was just ridiculously hard. I think I awoke at some stage and seriously considered putting my sleeping mat on the bed!
I awoke to the sound of pouring rain so rolled over for another snooze. Today was going to be an easy day.

*Leaving Buga, one of the most civilised towns in a while.*


I'd considered going up to lake Colima back aways and camping but the campgrounds were away from a town and needing access to a hospital I was afraid that a lack of the vaccine would leave me under pressure given that I'd be a long way from another town. Instead I was going to head north to the small town of Andalucía which had both a hospital and a hotel. More small town Colombia!

When the rain stopped I wandered down town for some brekkie then another coffee in the Plaza. A pleasant, relaxing start to the day.
Still cool I had a pleasant exit from the town and rejoined the PanAmerican. It was going to be a shortish 35km run and all going well I can turn off it again tomorrow.
It's funny. A guy posted on Facebook some time ago about how he'd just discovered the "Pan American" and now he wanted to ride it all the way. I seem to spend most of my time trying to get off it!

*Sigh. Back on the PanAmerican and look at those signs - Armenia, Pereira, Cartago. I'm going backwards!*


It was busy! And smelly! Today it was fumes, mainly diesel from all the trucks. My shoulder was pretty much perfect except for bridges where a footpath would appear replacing the shoulder. A problem in Panamá, a mild inconvenience in Colombia. More traffic meant more beeps and waves of support. It seemed that there was a lot of enthusiasm to the waves.

San Pedro was the first town along the way and I didn't put up too much of an argument with myself turning off and locating the Plaza. I didn't need coffee so just sat in the Plaza and spent a bit of time selecting photos for here.
It didn't take long until I was chatting away with an older guy. Pereira was to be avoided, according to him. Full of thieves and robbers! San Pedro? Nothing bad ever happens here. Maybe it's the isolation over Christmas and the New Year but I'm really enjoying these conversations and very proud of my Spanish.

*In fairness there were lots of interesting trees*


The next town along was Tuluá, a big town. Of course I took that turn off too - what's my rush? A coffee in the Plaza and a chance to watch the people going about their business. A big, prosperous looking town it looked like an interesting place to stay with two hospitals. I considered staying but decided to push on. I prefer the smaller hospital.

On the way out of town I had a chat with another bike tourist! This chap was from Argentina and heading north too, destination a bit confused. He had crossed from Ecuador but wasn't fulky compliant with Colombia, I couldn't quite follow the details. He mentioned having seen other cyclists heading south.

*Sugarcane, hills and mountains in the distance



*​It didn't take long at all until I was turning of for Andalucía. At the Plaza I pulled in for a coffee and a snack. The hotel was on one corner, the hospital along another side.

_*There's obviously a bit of effort put in to beautify the road.*_
*



*​I got a room in the hotel, had a cold shower and set off on two missions. The first was to get a new front brake. That damaged pin means that the brakes are very soft and have to be adjusted daily and while it's not urgent on the flat I'm not far from the mountains again. I had to ask a few people but I got directed to a workshop and bought a set of brakes for the princely sum of €2. Then, off to the hospital to check if they have the vaccine.

*The Pan American, Colombia style*


Small towns - I love 'em.
I was welcomed at the door and told to take a seat while he went off to investigate. Moments later he was back and led me through the hospital to the "Vaccination" office where I was introduced. Of course they had the vaccine. They'd be open from 8 am bring my documents and passport. My friend escorted me to the main door and advised me to use that one in the morning. Sorted!

_*There's always a tree or two.....*_
*



*​Then it was back to the hotel to replace the brakes something that is simple for many but for me is a sign of how far a bike has brought me. Not mechanically minded at all something like that gives me tremendous satisfaction.

_*The Río Tuluá in ..... Tuluá. One of the very few towns I've seen here where the río is celebrated and a fixture in the city. European style terraces were dotted along the banks. Soooooo tempting to a río fan like me.*_
*



*​With chores done I could be lazy. There's little to this little town outside of the Plaza - if all I do is look. But if I feel? I feel comfortable, welcome. Asking a couple of guys about a bike shop they replied (as best they could) in English and tried to be as helpful as possible.
Scoping the supermarket I was checked on three times by three pleasant staff asking how they could help me. Perhaps they thought I was suspicious but gave zero impression other than genuine helpfulness.
Attempting to cross the road (something done with caution in these parts!) an older man nudged me when he was crossing too giving me the signal it was safe to do so.

*Leaving Tuluá. Often the roads in and out of town are worth the detour in their own right



*​The Christmas lights came on early in the Plaza and like a sign that said "Open for business" it started to fill up. Two of the smallest trampolines ever seen have been set up and kids' laughter and screams are the soundtrack. A speaker is playing happy music - not blasting but loud enough for a bit of atmosphere. Families are gathering, some eating, others at Mass, others playing, yet more just chatting. And I get to be a part of it all. I don't think Andalucia will show up on any lists of places that you must visit but I'm really glad to be here.

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (7 Jan 2022)

Day 843 Tuesday, January 04, 2022 Buga to Andalucía, 41 km Total KM 15614
Min meters 991 , Max Meters 1048
Total Climb 144 Total Descent 136
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 45 Ave Temp 31

The towns along the way .....

_*The pleasant and cheerful church in San Pedro. The "Welcome to San Pedro" sign proudly (if a tad optimistically) declares "Where dreams are born".*_
*



*




_*The Plaza in San Pedro. *_
*







Very unusually for Colombia the central statue wasn't of a local martyr for Independence but of a group of (local) musicians. It appears music is San Pedro's "thing". *







_*Tuluá and the church. That lady in the shot would not move! I'd pulled up and waited while her photo was taken at the sign. The man with her moved off their daughter, presumably, called her away and she point blank refused to move. Now she's famous! *_
*



*



_*The church and some of the coolest pigeons ever! I walked right through them and not a one flew away. If I spoke Pigeon I'm pretty sure my ears would have been burning!*_
*








The church in Andalucía*








*Guess!*









*It's very difficult to describe the atmosphere in these places in the evening. Full of life yet so calm. Happy music, happy voices, a community coming together and sharing space. It's a very rare thing for me to feel anything but welcome.*



​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (8 Jan 2022)

Day 844 Wednesday, January 05, 2022 Andalucía to San Luis, 66 km Total KM 15680
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1029,
Total Climb 239 Total Descent 257
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 29

So many towns so many stops

So I was at the hospital just after 8am. A man at the door (in regular "medical" clothing not a security uniform) checked my reason for being there and directed me to where I knew I had to go. A queue of mainly women with children were already outside the door. I took up a place along the wall. A woman waiting with her son told me to go into the office and show them my papers. So I did.

The kids were getting vaccines and they showed me a pile of paperwork as if to say I was at the bottom of the pile. No problem, I'm in no hurry. Leaving my passport and paperwork with them I went back to the corridor. Being white, male and childless I wasn't exactly blending in but I certainly didn't feel uncomfortable. 

*Sigh. Back on the Pan American. Am I the most spoilt bike tourist ever?😊*


I watched the numbers dwindle and then I was called in. The unusual (to a Colombian) layout of my passport led to "Señor Andrew" being called out (Andrew is my second name). The hotel last night registered me as Frank Eireannach (Eireannach meaning "Irish" as Gaeilge). In and out I was in three minutes. No charge and lots of good wishes.

A process that seemed incredibly complicated and stressful, potentially dangerous and just generally a PITA a couple of weeks ago in a tiny, dingy room in Rosas had come to an end as I stepped out into bright sunshine in another small town.
I'm not advocating getting bitten by a dog when you go away but I got to see parts of Colombia that tourists don't often get to see. And I quite enjoyed it. 
Other patients didn't look at me as a foreigner using up "their" facilities, the professionals were professional and pleasant. The facilities are not what I'm used to but they are used as best they can. 
Even leaving the hospital the man on the door stopped me to make sure that I had received what I needed. And wished me well.
Even with a dogbite and potential rabies infection Colombia still has me feeling comfortable. 
I went for a coffee and just sat thinking about what a lucky fecker I am. 

*Leaving Zarzal.*


It was approaching 11 am when I finally set off. My first town was only a couple of km down the road so wanting to make at least some progress I kept going. I did turn off for La Paila though, a small village on the other side of the road after about 20km.

_*Nature's Fireworks exploding in front of some characterful mountains*_
*



*​I've been thinking the past day or two just how easy it is to head into a strange town - just head for the Plaza. I know I used to use church steeples in Europe as a way to navigate but here it seems ...... different. For one thing, while Plazas may be quiet there are always people and usually some activity taking place. At this time of the year there are the Christmas decorations too. There's invariably a place to eat or drink - coffee is becoming less scarce again as I re-approach coffee country. 
I may be totally delusional but on rolling out of town again I think I've picked up a feeling for the place.

*I thought road trains were an Australian thing. It looks like these guys are transporting sugarcane.*


I'm taking very few photos along the road at the moment - I'm enjoying the cycling too much! It's great to be moving at speed again and while the views are interesting, trees especially, I prefer moving. 

_*The Pan American in Colombia ....... Nothing like the Pan American in Panamá!*_
*



*​After about 30km I left the Pan American for a while and visited the new town of Zarzal. I could have stayed on the big road but with an alternative it was a no brainer. Zarzal, just over 100 years old was big, but dull. I rolled out again and onto a rural road, decentq surface except for the edges and not too much traffic. Wonderful trees lined the road and I zipped along to the very pleasant town of Roldanillo. 
Famous as the home of a Colombian artist, Rayo, it's pretty and well set up for tourists. A very pleasant Plaza was my stop for excellent coffee. 

*Today's Río - the Río Cauca with a free railway suspension bridge*


I stopped on the edge of town for a bite to eat and a bit of flirting at a bakery and then set off for the next town - La Union.
Outside of La Union iOverlander told me of a hostel and campsite and Facebook gave me the chance to message them so I did. I had a pretty instant response that I'd be very welcome - in fact I'd be the first customer in almost two years! 

*Not for the first time roadside art this time on tbe way to Roldanillo. One sign witg the artist's name, the next with the painting. The art wasn't speaking to me at all.*


Back now on a mainish two lane road I had the use of a dubious shoulder. Sometimes it was a part of the road and sometimes it was below the road, broken up and filled with gravel and debris. No matter, this was still much better travelling than on the Pan American. 

*It may not come across in tbe text but I was enjoying myself immensely.*


La Unión was a busy town with a busy Plaza. I had a little wander but as time was ticking I continued on the 5km or so out to the campground. As it turned out it was located in the teeny tiny, but very pretty and friendly village of San Luís.

_*Two different types of Palm trees simply outstanding in their field*_
*



*​Tim, the Dutch owner with a Venezuelan girlfriend (soon to be wife) was very friendly and welcoming and I got to pitch my tent amongst some exotic plants. His girlfriend's family are here too having fled Venezuela. Tim had just gotten his fledgling business off the ground when Covid hit. Very much set up and dependant on the "international adventure travel" demographic there hasn't been a lot of demand. 
Nothing but my presence would be accepted for food with the family after a shower and pitching the tent. 

Colombia - still very comfortable. 

*A simple church and a long, pretty but small park at a "surprise" village along the road*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Day 844 Wednesday, January 05, 2022 Andalucía to San Luis, 66 km Total KM 15680
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1029,
Total Climb 239 Total Descent 257
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 29

So many towns so many stops

The Towns along the way

*La Paila had an original sign*






_*The back was interesting too!*_
*







Santa's Grotto in Zarzal*







*A lovely little park on the way in to Roldanillo*







*A selection of street art in that lovely little park*








*The Church from the Plaza in Roldanillo*






*A bright and cheerful cemetery in Roldanillo*







*How to make a boring concrete bench interesting in La Union*​








*The impressive church in La Union*








*San Luís. A charming, friendly village*​







Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Day 845 Thursday, January 06, 2022 San Luis to La Virginia, 60 km Total KM 15740
Min meters 929, Max Meters 996,
Total Climb 216 Total Descent 221
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 29

Heading back into my old stomping ground

Ah! A night in the tent! I slept like the proverbial drunken baby. I awoke with the sun but decided to roll over and sleep some more. It was about 7:30 when I finally got up and out, the temperature rising.
I made a breakfast of coffee and oatmeal with bananas and just enjoyed the calmness of my location. 

In no rush and half thinking about taking a day off I chatted to the Venezuelans as I dried out the footprint of my tent - it had rained pretty hard during the night - I heard none of it! 

*Somebody once told me that I was very pleasant and meant it as an insult. When I say my day was very pleasant I mean this ..... Very pleasant.*



At nearly 11am I was finally ready to hit the road. That's when the temperatures really start to peak around here. Not a feck was given - it was a very pleasant morning with very interesting conversations.

What followed for the rest of the day was the kind of touring I felt that I haven't done in a while - simply moseying from place to place. Osmand told me I had about 55km to cover and on these relatively flat roads that can be covered pretty quickly and easily. And if I found something interesting along the way? I could just stop there too.

*Views weren't particularly interesting but there were lots of trees to compensate.*


The road wasn't great - in fact at times it was downright lethal with subsidence and potholes hidden in shade - but I was in no rush. The scenery wasn't great either, at least in comparison to what I have been seeing but it was very pleasant. Truth be told there were lots of trees blocking views but they were interesting trees, full of soul and character and no doubt with lots of tales to tell.
If I say it was incredibly pleasant I mean exactly that. I might get bored with day after day of "incredibly pleasant" but every now and then they're a good day to throw in the mix.

*This is sugar cane country and that sign is warning that those multi-trailer trucks can be emerging from fields or side roads. There's always a man or two with cones, signs and flags to stop traffic and let these mammoths in and out.*


My first town was Toro before I'd even warmed up. A bit off the road and with a Plaza at the wrong end of the long town it meant I got to see pretty much everything. I stopped for coffee and an empanada it being quite a while since I'd eaten breakfast.

Back on the pleasant road I turned off to San Francisco. I nearly didn't as it looked small but I doubled back and discovered a very long, well spread out village where just about everyone greeted me. Very pleasant.

*Taking the turn to San Francisco, or as the sign says, the "nickname" version San Pacho. In Spain it would be Paco. In other parts of the Spanish world it could be Pancho.*


There was quite a gap before I pulled into a farm/cafe/restaurant for a coffee and snack. Very pleasant. 

*Leaving San Francisco. Stunning! I was so glad I took the turn off. Like a city it seemed to have clusters of houses as suburbs. It's off the main road, not a touristy place at all, the kind of place I stick out like the proverbial painful thumb but I got nothing but smiles and waves as I bumbled around.*


Then it was the last 20 odd kms to La Virginia, a bit of a slog to be honest in the humidity but very pleasant for all that. I could have turned right and hit Cartago but I've been there already. Armenia is just up the road. I won't be going there again! On a figary I'm heading to a place called Jardín (Garden) in a few days. It's reputedly one of the most beautiful towns in the coffee region that got dropped from my list when I couldn't take the road I wanted to take north of Manizales (landslides). What I know now that I didn't know then is that it's a tad inaccessible. Adventure beckons just to get there! Not to mention getting out again! 

*Palm trees? I can't quite say but I didn't care what they were called it was very pleasant riding past them*


I'm thoroughly enjoying these days on the (relative) flat, the easy cycling, the regular towns and villages. Why? I'm not sure. There's an easyness, a comfort to it. No pressure. That'll change tomorrow when I start climbing again! But for now it's just about perfect. 

*Not the most interesting landscape, especially with the grey skies but very pleasant for me*


I arrived in the chaotic La Virginia, skipped my usual coffee and grabbed a lemonade instead. Looking at the angry sky I made my way to a likely cheap Hospedaje but it was closed. A friendly neighbour pointed me around the corner where I found a receptionist completely besotted by my travels and a cheap room. As we were talking rain of biblical proportions started falling. My luck is still in!

*Very pleasant hills*






_*An ominous looking sky. Mr Mountain biker managed to completely ignore me - no mean feat as I was waving and greeting him *_
*






Today's río, the Río Cauca again. It looks calm and peaceful but it's actually moving at a fair old pace and carrying a lot of debris*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Day 845 Thursday, January 06, 2022 San Luis to La Virginia, 60 km Total KM 15740
Min meters 929, Max Meters 996,
Total Climb 216 Total Descent 221
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 34 Ave Temp 29

Heading back into my old stomping ground

The towns along the way


*Ehm...... Toro!*








*The green, pleasant but very quiet Plaza in Toro. It's a very long, linear town and the Plaza is located at the opposite end to the big road. The real activity was located around the market. It is very unusual not to be able to get a coffee and snack around a Plaza. *







*Toro Street Art. Clearly Carnaval is a big thing here.*








_*El Toro in Toro!*_
*








For a very small village, San Francisco had a couple of levels*








*The church in San Francisco*








*The rather functional church in La Virginia*








*Street Art La Virginia*








*Much more interesting street art in La Virginia (taken the next morning)*










*La Virginia had three signs (that I found). Here's two - the third was in the rain.*



​


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Day 846 Friday, January 07, 2022 La Virginia to Roadside Mirador*, 27 km Total KM 15767
Min meters 973, Max Meters 1798,
Total Climb 1180 Total Descent 364
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 26 Ave Temp 22


Soaked in sweat, bathed in beauty, dipped in adventure and spritzed with luck


La Virginia got no justice. I stayed put while the downpour dominated then ventured out in the lighter rain. I needed a coffee and got my fix at an empty stall in the Plaza. It had an awning that I could sit under. With no-one out to watch I wrote up my notes. Then I ducked across to a food court and had some bland Mexican for dinner. A sad thought buzzed me as I ate; This is my future - underwhelming Mexican food.

Not ready to go back to my room yet I ducked up to a bakery for a piece of cake and another coffee from some friendly girls. That coffee was one too much. I couldn't sleep!

As a result this morning was a bit slow. But at least it was dry!
My knee has been giving me a bit of gyp the last couple of days. Not painful, just uncomfortable like it needs to crack. On the bike it's fine, standing straight or walking just feels a bit odd.

*Local advertising*


Today was a climbing day with options. The obvious option was to hop back on the main road, zip along for 30km then climb probably in the comfort of a shoulder.
The less obvious option was to take a backroad and climb immediately. 600 meters straight up. Then lots of ups and downs. Much fewer services. But it looked like once I was up I'd be staying up and I'd be travelling along a ridge with views on both sides. In coffee country.
A bit of a no brainer really.

_*Due to the absence of guardrails on these small roads I take advantage of the concrete constructions that allow runoff water to flow under the road. There is always a small wall to protect the drain and since they come in pairs (one on each side of the road) one is for Roccado, the other for me.*_
*



*​Tim, back in San Luis, had put the idea in my head. He'd recommended it for motorbikes. Osmand frightened me with its climbing info. But I'm in no rush.

I'm sure some of you are getting fed up reading about special days but this was another one. And a special night.

*This was the climb - small road, light traffic, lots of bends, lots of vegetation and some long, steep gradients*


The specialness started early. A shop I'd been hoping to use to top up on fluids was actually non existent so I started climbing low on water. About 15km to the next source. Yesterday 15km was nothing. Today it was 600 meters up.

Even though Gizmo was reading 21 C I was sweating as soon as I started climbing. Humidity. After about 20 minutes I was soaking. Not a good sign when low on water. Then a pickup pulled up, the driver asking where I was from. Did I need some water? He told me three times that it was clean and filled my bottle with delicious, cold water.

The road delivers.

*A shrine...... In my old rugby colours!*


He was confused when I told him my ultimate destination, Ríosucio, pointing downhill and telling me the main road would be easier. Pointing where I was going he used his hand as an aeroplane taking off to suggest what was ahead of me. Then he shook his head, changed his angles and his palm became a rocket reaching for the stars! When I told him where I was going after Ríosucio - an adventurous road shall we say - my choice today didn't seem quite so mad. 

*As I got higher I hit the clouds. Clouds! Yaaaaay!*


With gradients regularly into double figures it was slow going but height came quickly. With height came the views. With the views came the loon face.

*There are few things more satisfying than cycling up and looking down on clouds snagging on mountains. I love it!*






*The banana tree often is an indication of the presence of coffee. It's really interesting. Coffee needs a certain altitude to grow. For a long time there's nothing, then I round a bend and coffee is everywhere. For me it is increcibly uplifting and a wonderful reward for hard, sweaty work.*



​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/

Edited to add this photo which belongs in the next post

_*Big Jesus is looking down on me!*_
*



*​


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Day 846 Friday, January 07, 2022 La Virginia to Roadside Mirador*, 27 km Total KM 15767
Min meters 973, Max Meters 1798,
Total Climb 1180 Total Descent 364
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 26 Ave Temp 22


Soaked in sweat, bathed in beauty, dipped in adventure and spritzed with luck. Part Two.

I peaked after 600 meters of climbing and sure enough I was on a ridge. I had either views to one side or the other and sometimes both. One side seemed to be bathed in mist - but that side swapped as the wind worked to always give me something to look at. It's something that is still amazing to me - how cloud and mist can steal and return views in such a lazy, nonchalent manner.

*What a reward!*


The first town, Belalcazar, was about 15km in, after about 10km of climbing. Unlike recent days there was no question of stopping or not - I needed to stop. An open restaurant with amazing views gave me breakfast and I continued on past a giant Jesus statue to the town, proper. I pulled in to what I thought was the Plaza (it wasn't) and whatever was in the air just seeped into me. It was an incredibly comfortable feeling. A man broke off from a group for a chat. This is what happens in small town Colombia. There was never going to be an offer of cocaine here.

_*The camera went a bit wonky..... But I like the result*_
*



*​He directed me to where I could buy a coffee, telling me not to worry about the bike and continued to chat with me. He was clearly perturbed by my insistence on using the small road but seemed to relax when I told him how much I was enjoying myself. 
Then two, but soon to be five, ten year olds on bikes came over to talk to the big cyclist. Communication was hard - kids can talk fast and the pitch can be hard to hear (I'm getting old!!). One was bemused by the idea that the whole world didn't speak Spanish. 

Then I saw them. I nearly missed them so inocous were they. Paintings, frameless, hanging from lamp poles. No doubt done by locals with artist ages from 6 to 63. 
These things really get me. It's encouraging art and expression, it's local, it's simple, it's proud and it's just so heartwarming. 

The town is amazingly steep, built along the ridge. Fabulous views in both directions with death defying streets running down. I spied a hotel - I'd not been expecting one - and gave serious thought to staying. The coffee ladies had been fun, my personal guide, the kids, and so many smiling people were strong lures to stay. But I had a plan. An outside chance. A mirador, or viewing platform where I may be able to camp. 

_*I'm introducing a new road into the bike touring lexicon......*_
*Ladies and gentlemen, I offer up The Coffee Road!*


I stopped at the actual Plaza - more paintings and more smiles then I pushed up out of town (it was that steep) and came to a cemetery. It's been building for a while so I parked up the bike outside and went for a wander.
What a place for a final resting place. The views were just stunning. Now I had a real debate with myself about staying. In the end the chance of a night in the tent won out.

I found myself asking myself just why these towns speak to me so much as I laboured up and away. Is it the town itself or my own state of mind? Probably somewhere in the middle. 

*I may well have had a lower average speed along here than on the climb!*


My climbing wasn't over. In fact, from the giant Jesus statue one edge of the town to the far side of town added 200 meters to my tally. The road disimproved drastically with subsidence, potholes and all the usual hazards so the descents were taken carefully. There was a whole lot of up and down. But the views? Just magical. I probably seems that I'm over using that word but magical, to me, suggests mystery and unexplained happenings. Mysterious mist and cloud was hiding and revealing scenes of stunning beauty in a way that I can't explain. Hence magical.

*Roccado back in coffee country*






I enjoyed the last few days with the easy cycling and the town visits but this was a different kind of touring. Soaked and dripping I was literally immersed in the environment. Cold was never too far away either. Stopped at the side of the road, soaking wet it didn't take long for the ever present wind to cool me right down.
I was working very, very hard and asking myself just why I do these things. I really don't know but I came to the conclusion that I have the body of a middle aged man, the mind of a 17 year old and the heart of a feckless tiger!

I was taking my time, greeting the workers walking along the road and always getting a response. Traffic was incredibly respectful and often motivational too - lots and lots of toots and waves. Stopped at the side of the road people would holler "where are you from?". It was wonderful. I'm thinking not many touring cyclists come this way (and I can understand the physical reasons not to) but it really is a wonderful cycling and touring experience.
That GCN Colombian backpacking video that I referenced in the Chat thread recently came to mind. They both commented that their road, if in Europe, would be famous and thronged with cyclists but that in Colombia it was just one of many, many "normal" roads. Such was mine today.

*Little coffee fincas (farms) dotted all around. Most coffee production in Colombia is by small farmers - the big corporations never got to take it over*


San Jose was the next town after my proposed camping spot. Small, I had no information about any accommodation and I realised that Osmand was pretty accurate with its climbing info so going further, if necessary, was going to be slow and hard. Approaching where the Mirador should be I saw no typical signs for it and started to feel a bit of disappointment. However, there on a bend was a sign and a tricky road going steeply uphill. I could see something up the hill but no detail. The road was so bad and so steep that I parked up and walked up. I left the bike visible from the road, invisible to me as I ascended without a care in the world - this is small town Colombia. A guy strimming told me the place was open so I continued on. 

*The opposite side of the ridge to the previous photo.*


The views? I don't have the words. I was made most welcome and shown where I could camp. About €2! 
I went back down to pick up the bike and laboured up. It was really, really tough. Some teenagers who had parked their motorbikes gave me a push! A Friday evening and a group of teenage lads gathering in an out of the way place would make me nervous at home - but this is small town Colombia. 

_*What a camping spot!!! (Taken the next morning)*_ 


Normally a Mirador like this has a restaurant but all that was here were snacks like crisps and cookies. Not even any coffee. No problem - I made my own as I got the tent set up. I shared it with the very pleasant young man running the show. They do paragliding from up here! There are toilets (with paper) and showers (although the stalls are full of chairs). And the views? No words.

_*My view from my camping spot*_
*



*​I thought that would be the end of the day but it's not. I cooked up some pasta as night fell and not one but two valleys came to night life in front of me. I've never seen Dallas from a DC9 at night (a Joe Ely reference) but I've seen two Colombian valleys standing on a ridge. I'd walk from one side to the other, a distance of about 5 meters, and soak up the alternating views.

At first just a few twinkling lights scattered about. Then the towns start to take shape, one here, one way down there - along the road that I could have taken . A big town way up there. As darkness falls they become more vivid, more defined, more separate. Then the homestead lights start to come on. One here. One there. Soon the whole valley is twinkling, some high, some low and the separateness of the towns melts away, defeated by tiny, glowing, pinpricks of light. The whole valley, it seems, is decorated with fairy lights. 
On the other side, in a different valley, Manizales (I think) away in the far corner dominates, its light tinged with orange growing stronger until it is reflecting a fake orange sunset on the low clouds. A wider valley with fewer and smaller towns it's a picture of the power of the big town to gobble up the life of the smaller ones.

NIghtime looking eastish. I believe (most likely wrong knowing me😊) that that's Manizales lighting up the sky





I don't travel light and I sweat (and frequently swear) climbing but an evening like this is why I carry what I do. I could camp. I could feed myself. I could make coffee and share it. I could be comfortable. I could relax. 

To be continued.....

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (9 Jan 2022)

Day 846 Friday, January 07, 2022 La Virginia to Roadside Mirador*, 27 km Total KM 15767
Min meters 973, Max Meters 1798,
Total Climb 1180 Total Descent 364
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 26 Ave Temp 22


Soaked in sweat, bathed in beauty, dipped in adventure and spritzed with luck. The Art.

Indulge me please. The art in Belalcazar deserves a post all to itself.






























































































Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2022)

Day 846 Friday, January 07, 2022 La Virginia to Roadside Mirador*, 27 km Total KM 15767
Min meters 973, Max Meters 1798,
Total Climb 1180 Total Descent 364
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 26 Ave Temp 22


Soaked in sweat, bathed in beauty, dipped in adventure and spritzed with luck. The towns along the way.


_*Monumento Cristo Ray*_
*







Parked up in Belalcazar. No worries to leave Roccado and wander off*






*The first bit of art to catch my eye entitled "Elvis". For any Elvis fans reading this*








_*Streets are narrow and feckin' steep in these mountainy, ridgetop towns. (Belalcazar)*_
*







The particularly ugly church in Belalcazar*







*Too small to appear on a map a collection of bright houses*







*A simple country church in another place too small to merit a mention on a map*




​Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2022)

Day 847 Saturday, January 08, 2022 Roadside Mirador* to Anserma 30 km Total KM 15797
Min meters 1552, Max Meters 1827,
Total Climb 600 Total Descent 574
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28

*For @netman 
Google: 5.0708703, -75.7994457
Osmand:5.07115° N, 75.79995° W

Every morning should start like this

Dawn was covered in cloud. I peeked out of the tent and was a bit disappointed.

Then I got up. For the next hour or so I tried to understand my disappointment - and failed. I couldn't figure out why I was disappointed. Mother Nature with her sun, her clouds and her mist put on a show for me that will live long in the memory. 

_*Looking east. At first there was almost no cloud cover, just a few snagged in the mountains then slowly the valley was covered*_
*



*​The eastern valley, with Manizales away off in the top corner, was brightest and clearest. Below me clouds were trapped in valleys, unmoving in the wind while above them other clouds flittered across the sky relishing in their freedom.
From nowhere, it seemed, thick, heavy cloud started to fill the valley and where I could see slopes and hilltops and fields soon all became covered in a grey, dirty wool.

*On the western side the sun shone snd as it rose daylight lit up the valley. A beautiful sight.*


On the western side the opposite was happening. The sun was landing on peaks and changing them from darkest, dullest navy to vital green. The light sputtered, waxing and waning as if in a battle with shyness to push through the cloud then became more confident, strode cockily through the cloud and spread its warmth.
The vivid green peaks leaked downwards, the sun bringing life, colour and warmth to the valley, eventually to the valley floor itself. Fields emerged from the gloom, thick hedges defining their boundaries. Up higher, the distant mountains looming over the smaller, greener ones were darker, less distinct but bisected by incredibly straight lines of white cloud.
A different world.

*Blue skies and sun. Bliss.*


Sitting with my coffee I could turn my head to the east to grey and dull or to the west to sun and vitality.

What a start to the day!

*One of my better decisions*


To make things even better three dogs out for their morning ramble came over to say hello. One, very friendly, created a racket with his wagging tail slapping off the tent but was well behaved enough to stop his exploration inside when I said "No". It's great to see that I'm having no bad reaction to the dog bite.

*Looking east the sun is higher but the cloud isn't shifting*





*If I'd taken the main road I'd be down there.*






*My friendly morning companion. I've just told him not to go into the tent and he obediently turns around*






*I made two pots of coffee. I was in no rush to leave*






*Heading down to the road. Look at that cloud!*



​


To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2022)

Day 847 Saturday, January 08, 2022 Roadside Mirador* to Anserma 30 km Total KM 15797
Min meters 1552, Max Meters 1827,
Total Climb 600 Total Descent 574
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28

*For @netman
Google: 5.0708703, -75.7994457
Osmand:5.07115° N, 75.79995° W

Every morning should start like this Part Two

San José was the first village when I set off, barely having clocked up any mileage. Small, steep, busy and rural it was with narrow streets. I had a pleasant breakfast in about the only place not serving alcohol and playing lovesick ballads at a high volume and set off again. It struck me as a productive place with little time for the social niceties. That's not meant as a criticism, I felt just as comfortable here as most other places just that there were few reasons to linger. 

*Entering San José. Coffee is growing right to the edge of the little town*


Onwards I went. Risaralda would be the next town but there was a whole world of beauty between here and there. The worst of the climbing was over for now, I'd be rolling up and down along the ridge, at least until later when I'd finish with a climb. Today the sun was out in full force and coated everything in a beautiful light. Views seemed to extend forever.

*A gap between two houses along the way*


Since I ascended back into the coffee country I've been feeling a tad emotional, verging a little on overwhelmed. The ride today gave me a chance to tease the emotions out.
This part of the trip is a gift to myself. I chose this area, I chose this route. It's not distance, nor meters nor destination that count but enjoyment. How cool is it that on the other side of the world, in a huge country that I don't really know I can pick an area and head for it and not be disappointed. It's both comfortably familiar yet incredibly exotic. This is my choice, for me, and I'm loving it! 
It's a bit strange. I'm heading in the opposite direction that I wanted to go, I'm coming to the end of this Big, Big Trip yet the dark cloud that I've been expecting to descend any day now is nowhere on the horizon. 

*What a view*


Risaralda was another agricultural town, just over 100 years old. Busy and chaotic on a Saturday, the jeeps being loaded up with sacks of seed and fertiliser. Bars were busy and lots of music filled the streets. Finding a place to park the bike was tricky. I had a coffee but could find nowhere to grab a bite to eat. Like San José earlier there was nothing unpleasant about the place, just little to keep me here.

*I think the main road way down there goes to Manizales. I did look to see if the little road ran down to join it (it didn't). I was seriously considering taking it!*


These towns tend to chaotically busy but friendly. Pushing is the best way to get through. Partly because of the steepness, partly the traffic, especially the motorbikes but really to see everything and everyone. Some of the town rubs off in me in this manner. In these friendly places that's no bad thing.

*Blessed! I'm feckin' blessed!*


I rolled out of town and spied just what I was looking for. On the side of the road a woman was selling empanadas, coffee and cold drinks from her house.
I was made most welcome and had a lovely chat with the lady of the house and her only customer, an older man.
Displaying the characteristics of an Irish Mammy she enquired with concern about my wellbeing and the dangers of the road. Then enquiries about a wife and children, parents and so on. Having explained that I hadn't lived in Ireland for 25 years and that I wasn't really sure where home actually was anymore she started the exploration of the attractiveness of the concept of settling down in Colombia with a local señorita. At another time in another place such a conversation might seem invasive but at that time in that place it was very pleasant and enjoyable. 
All through my snack, drink and conversation I was glancing across the road to a coffee nursery and baby plants of coffee. A lovely sight! 

*This is the best shot I could manage to try to illustrate the ridge I was riding along and the valleys on both sides. This is a great road!*







*Bamboo trees exploding out of the ground*







*It was along here that I figured out why I was feeling so emotional*







*No words*








*There are lots of great adventure roads in these mountains.*



​

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (10 Jan 2022)

Day 847 Saturday, January 08, 2022 Roadside Mirador* to Anserma 30 km Total KM 15797
Min meters 1552, Max Meters 1827,
Total Climb 600 Total Descent 574
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28

*For @netman
Google: 5.0708703, -75.7994457
Osmand:5.07115° N, 75.79995° W

Every morning should start like this Part Three

*I just loved this stretch with the banana trees lining the road. Bright, blue skies, blazing sun, epic views and a sheer drop!*


I set off again and soon discovered why so many had expressed reservations about taking this route since the road surface disappeared! Uh oh! I'd done nothing in preparation other than look at the elevation profile. Oh well, I wasn't in any rush!
The truth of the matter was that the surface came and went with no apparent logic that I could determine. A bit of adventure stacked on top of a whole lot of beauty. 
It did get me thinking though, that with a less forgiving bike I'd really need to do detailed planning. Very detailed! 

*When the road goes to pot*


The landscape was just stunning adorned with golden sunshine for my benefit. Dogs were out today too, mostly harmless barkers. At one stage on a no - surface section two biggish mutts leapt out at me from a little house. One clearly thought this was fun, the other I was a little less sure of but in any case they were little threat as they were busy (play) fighting with each other to see who would get to me first!
I started talking to them as is my way. A big, black man sitting on his porch thought this was hilarious as I told the dogs I was far from home and they weren't making me feel welcome. He hollered at the dogs and the dubious one responded while Mr. Playful danced around me. The big guy saluted me, still laughing and myself laughing saluted him back. 

*The depth and variety of vegetation was just so impressive and on such a quiet road I could relax and soak it all up*


I should write someday about the motorbikes here. Today's story started when I was playing tag with three young lads on two bikes. A motorbike pulled up and the chap on one bike became the pillion passenger on the motorbike, held out his hands to be grasped by a cyclist each and off they flew up the hill! To me that's amazing and not a little daredevilsh/foolish depending on my mood but kids here literally are on motorbikes from the baby stage. 

*Baby bananas!*


I had a wonderfully long, gentle descent before hitting bottom and starting a steep climb up to the town of Anserma where I'd call it a day. I'm not a fan of climbs at the end of the day and to add insult to injury the climb was steepest at the top. 

*No words*


Anserma didn't make the greatest of first impressions as it seemed incredibly quiet. I pushed and heaved up to a pretty sterile Plaza and saw no place for coffee. Or anything. I rested up, pushed upwards and came across a hotel that Booking had said was cheapest. Modern, above a shopping mall I think I scored my best deal yet - hot shower, modern room and breakfast for a very cheap price. 

_*Dropping lower the vegetation changed*_
*



*​I showered and took a wander. As I rose through the town it got busier and livelier. These ridge towns are incredibly steep, normally with one block running along the ridge, two streets on either side and then lots of frankly terrifying streets running steeply down and perpendicular to that main block. This tends to make the towns long and when building stops on the ridgesides the planting begins. One reason that Anserma seemed so quiet on arrival is that the main road unusually avoids the town centre running parallel to one side with almost another town spread alongside it.

*What. A. Road.*



​I had some rice for dinner, some coffee and utilised the good wifi to post here. 

*No words*







*I could ride this road for ever.......*







*The colours!*





​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jan 2022)

Day 847 Saturday, January 08, 2022 Roadside Mirador* to Anserma 30 km Total KM 15797
Min meters 1552, Max Meters 1827,
Total Climb 600 Total Descent 574
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28

Every morning should start like this

The Towns along the way


_*The different church in San José*_
_*




*_​

_*Roadside art outside a small settlement




*_​


_*My coffee stop in Risaralda. These towns are high and fall steeply




*_​

_*The church in Risaralda (and a great bike!)




*_​

_*The only example of street art in Risaralda




*_​

_*Leaving Risaralda




*_​

_*Coming in to Anserma. Any excuse to stop 




*_​

_*I found it very quiet and sterile. The real activity was further up the town near the market




*_​

_*Jeeps are everywhere for public transport




*_​


*I think this one might illustrate the steep streets (and the epic views)




*​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jan 2022)

Day 848 Sunday, January 09, 2022 Anserma to Ríosucio 36 km Total KM 15832
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2188,
Total Climb 684 Total Descent 665
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 23

Cascades are better than waterfalls

I just wasn't feeling it this morning. Close to Anserma yesterday I had rejoined the big road (25) and would be on it now until Riosucio. After yesterday that felt a bit ....... bleh. I'm becoming a very selfish bike tourist - I don't want to share the roads!
Breakfast had been good but served with hot chocolate, not coffee, so I stopped on the edge of town for a tinto. Setting off the sun was blasting but I was missing something. Going uphill didn't help. Lots of recreational cyclists didn't much help either - to them I'm something to be ignored or gazed at curiously. A salute, a wave, a greeting is rare. To be fair a whistle is more common - something I'm still struggling to acclimatise to.
A lot of the recreational cycling around here is on MTBs and most display little evidence of actually going off road. Mind you, the variable quality of the road surface and the steep climbs would encourage me to buy the same.

*Setting off and this was my view and I was feeling meh! I'm a terrible bike tourist*


As I rose the sun faded as mist and cloud started swirling. A blessing, I believed, since the temperature started to drop too. I pulled in at the side of the road, sat down and relaxed. I wrote up my notes from yesterday and only when I felt more in the mood did I set off again.

*Some days this would be a great biking road. Today it was a place to pull up and get my head together.*


Immediately, things seemed better. The gradient didn't seem as steep. The sun started to come out again and views opened up. The advantage of travelling solo - I can stop and get my head together.

*Getting my head together was a smart move!*



I had a slight dilemma a little later as I approached the small village of San Clemente as I'd also be passing reasonably close to a bigger town, Guacita. The dilemma was would I stop at both? Only a few kms apart it seemed a bit indulgent but there'd be no other town or village until my destination. Coming up to the turn off for Guacita I pulled in and had a look at Osmand. Over 200 meters down meaning a 200 meter plus climb over a little over 2km to get back on the road. Dilemma solved

*Guatica. 209 meters to climb back out of the valley. I passed.*



In the end San Clemente was charming, quiet, calm, and very friendly.
They must not get many tourists because everyone stared at me from tiny kids to old folks but they were quick to smile and wave. I did a lap of the Plaza and hit the only bakery for a coffee and some bread with cheese. I had a lovely, soft, comfy stool looking over the Plaza so had another coffee. Then Mass broke so I had to have another coffee and a doughnut as I watched the town empty out of the church.

*Weather anxiety is a waste of energy in these parts. Keep the rainjacket very handy for quick deployment is all I can do*



Whole families walking slowly together the pace dictated by the oldest or the smallest. One family who came for a coffee had a little boy, maybe 5 or 6 decked out in slacks, shirt, a woolen waistcoat and a dickie bow! His sister was just as smartly dressed in a bright dress. Clearly dressed for Sunday. 
A few horses were scattered around waiting for their riders too. One down the road from me turned out to be untied - just waiting patiently.

*I'm trying to show how quickly a view can appear or disappear according to the whims of the clouds.*



It's quite possible that San Clemente could be crazy busy on any other day but today, a Sunday, I felt privileged to get to be a part of it for a little while. And it is right to say "a part of it". People spoke to me, included me. Were interested in me. 

*Greens and blues everywhere. Will I ever get bored of these? I've been amazed since México.*



I set off again up a big hill but then I had a long, gentle descent. The road disimproved significantly, one patch of subsidence giving me a bad fright so my appetite for adventure was being sated. I took my time. I stopped often. At one stop just standing, looking, a little movement in a bush caught my eye. A teeny tiny humming bird buzzing around. So small so delicate. Yesterday I had spotted an amazing, luminous green caterpillar, humungous by my usual standards, just completing his crossing of the road. More evidence that I'm in a different part of the world.

*That's my road!!*



La Cascada is the Spanish for waterfall. Cascade. To me, that suggests a gentleness, a delicacy maybe even a hint of artistry moreso than waterfall. Today there were many cascadas, few waterfalls. What do I mean?
The tinkling of running water was very common but the sight of the water was rare. It was the solo violinist, off stage, adding to the scene without being part of the scene. When I did spy it, invariably it was little more than a musical trickle. There was no rushing, no gushing, no violence, just peace and calm. No wonder I'm so feckin' slow - it's the soundtrack slowing me down

*Very pleasant cycling and the neat fence posts are back!*








*I'm not sure if you can see them but this was taken to capture the random "white trees" scattered around. I can't explain it but I love 'em.*






To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jan 2022)

Day 848 Sunday, January 09, 2022 Anserma to Ríosucio 36 km Total KM 15832
Min meters 1776, Max Meters 2188,
Total Climb 684 Total Descent 665
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 23

Cascades are better than waterfalls Part Two

*Una cascada providing a calm soundtrack to my day. *


I'd one more longish climb of maybe 200 meters then downhill all the way to Ríosucio.

*Coffee is disappearing*



A surprise restaurant with an amazing view at the summit called me in. At first I was happy to gaze on a peculiar mountain but then I spied horses in a field opposite. Of different colours, one, a white one, seemed frisky and kept bugging another until he got a chase. Then another. And another. Soon they were all playing around until they finally went back to grazing. That was my cue to move on.

*With height comes Pine trees*



Somewhere on that last climb I'd changed direction and there was a subtle change in the environment. The coffee pretty much disappeared being replaced by fruit and, higher up, pine trees. Similar to the other day when the coffee suddenly appeared, today it just as quickly disappeared. But now the air was filled with different scents drifting in the wind. And birds. Lots of chattering and singing birds. 

*Completely different vegetation*


A lot of the descent was in the shade and it was surprisingly cool. Whenever I hit the sun it was glorious. At times the sun can be overpowering around here but at that time today it was a welcome warmth. 
I got to see Riosucio below me - it's always a great feeling to be sweeping down to my destination - much better than yesterday when I was sweating up!

*Impressive if a little forbidding*



I headed for the Plaza, pleasantly full of life on a bright Sunday. A man immediately approached me looking for a tool but I couldn't understand what for. It was for his son's bike - the stabilisers were loose and needed tightening. Easy! I dug through my stuff and got the job done. Clearly a brand spanking new bike (bought for growth it was too big for the poor lad) the stabilisers were necessary. Now secure he had a better chance of being able to use the bike. It wasn't hard to imagine the frustration of the little lad nor the despair of Papa both of them having taken the bike to the Plaza only to be unable to ride it. It's very nice to be able to help, to give something back to this wonderful country.

*From the roadside Mirador. Everyone looks at the unusual mountain but loonface was captivated by the horses (if you can see them)*



I scouted around for a cheap place to stay being outright refused in one place and finding another up a tough flight of stairs. An ice cold mountain water shower and I set out to explore. Five minutes later the rain started! 

*In fairness, the horses weren't the only attraction*



An early night tonight. There's a big day tomorrow! 

*Looking down on Ríosucio and anticipating sweeping down for a coffee. Such moments are to be treasured and remembered for the days when I have to struggle up!*






*Taking a break from the sweeping. Surprisingly cool in the shade the sunny patches were heavenly*





Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (12 Jan 2022)

Day 848 Sunday, January 09, 2022 Ríosucio 


_*With all our souls we ask heaven;*_
_*That another sun shine on us, may freedom radiate.
That all who suffer satisfy their longing. May justice and equality shine everywhere








Guess!*_




​
_*The Plaza and the push cars are back!!! Such simple, old school fun. And in the background a small carousel strangely with cars flying through the air. The kids gave no sign of being confused. It was fun! *_




​

_*The deceptively large church*_




​
_*The church and Plaza, bathed in sunshine and filled with Sunday noise and life*_




​
_*A bird house for pigeons. An appalling idea that I loved for some strange reason*_




​


_*The back end of the church. Baby's got back!😀*_



​


_*These exteriors are becoming more common and the steep streets are everpresent*_








_*A second, newer church on a secondary, smaller Plaza*_




​


*A stand had been set up and these images were being projected onto the church. Muted modern music was being played but in the rain only the projectionists, a handful of bystanders and a bike tourist got to see it.




*​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (14 Jan 2022)

Day 849 Monday, January 10, 2022 Ríosucio to Jardín 51 km Total KM 15883
Min meters 1789, Max Meters 2902,
Total Climb 1406 Total Descent 1414
Min Temp 11 Max Temp 22 Ave Temp 14

The road to Hell

My little hotel was directly opposite the very large church which led to the most unusual morning alarm of this adventure so far - hymns being sung at about 5am! Devotion starts early in these parts! And is vocal. Pretty harmonious too.
It amused me. In a previous life such a disturbance would have annoyed me - now it's just a part of my explorations and learnings. And I didn't even have to get out of bed!

*Early morning RíoSucio. Cool, damp and gloomy*


I was just about to get up when the heavens opened. Oh well, I snuggled back down. Snuggle is the verb. At lower altitudes the nights are very warm, up here they cool down and the thick blankets folded on the bed come in handy. 
I got up about 6:30 and toddled out to explore. No rain but a whole load of heavy, visibility limiting mist. I grabbed a coffee and sat in the wet, dull, gloomy Plaza, so different from yesterday's arrival, practically the only person present. I'd seen very little of Ríosucio with the rain last night and I was seeing very little of it now with the mist. My road would be uphill through a big green blob on Osmand (green blobs are always interesting) and I couldn't imagine visibility conditions being much better up there. I thought about taking a day off and exploring this town. Besides, I was feeling tired and I knew I'd a tough day ahead. 
I took out my barely used weather apps for assistance. 
They all told me one thing - this was normal. I'd be looking at the same picture tomorrow. I went back to the hotel and packed up.

*At least it's mysterious where I'm off to. Little did I know it at the time but that was my last chance to sit down for a long time!*



I stopped for breakfast, no wandering dog this morning but a very brazen pigeon wandering around inside the bakery, then rolled out of town stopping to top up my water. Once on the backroad I could expect no services until I arrived.

The first 5km were on "normal road", generally upwards and then it quite literally disappeared, replaced with mud, rocks, stones, gravel, potholes and water. The only information I had on this road was from motorised iOverlander folks, one driver commenting that it was exhausting to drive on! I was about to find out what it was like on a bike! 

*I just love how they put old tyres to use here. A welcome blast of creativity and colour*


Looking now, Osmand describes it as "gravel" but the reality is that it was everything at various times, everything, that is, except surfaced.



It could be very, very hard as if cycling on solid, mountain rock worn smooth (and slippy), or mushily soft when going through mud. It could be clay with the tips of solid rock peeping through or it could be loose rocks scattered over any of the previous surfaces mentioned. Little ríos ran down the road, across the road and bigger ones beside the road. Several times there was a hump in the way of one of these rivers so the water accumulated in front of it, forming a miniature lake so that when the water level exceeded the hump it flowed over and continued on its way. Perhaps it was tiredness or a lack of a "wider", bigger view but I found these fascinating. Observers would have seen a cyclist paused, astride their bike with an amused expression on their face watching muddy puddles fill. 
Whatever the surface it was never flat. Generally it climbed but every now and then it descended, changing the challenges if not my velocity. Without a doubt this was the most difficult and technical off road riding I've done - and I was on a road! I'd rate it as more difficult than the Trampoline and without the views to compensate.



Views had disappeared with the surface, or to be correct, the potential for views. The road was narrow and usually lined with trees, bushes or rock and mud. When things did open up the mist killed any chance of seeing further. 

I was looking at my speed and calculating progress. Very slow. I had no reason to believe I'd make much faster progress when I finally started the descent after about 30km and started to contemplate the idea of trying to handle the descent in the dark. Based on this side that wouldn't be my best idea ever!

_*An interesting tree. I'll take motivation wherever I can. Not a great photo because of rain and cold, stiff fingers*_
*



*​
Then the rain started. It was before 11am and would stay falling almost the rest of the day. 
Unfortunately, that means that there are far fewer photos than normal and my notes that I tried to take are gobbledegook. I took shelter from the first deluge under a tree but after twenty minutes pushed on. It varied from light to heavy and everything in between. On parts of the road it made little difference but on others it added the qualities of an icerink to the adventure. 

*Today's río was babbling happily to me. There was little happy babbling back*


Traffic, as can be imagined, was very light, mainly motorbikes and not fast. I was amazed to watch one of the large chicken buses bouncing along, the traditional "bus" mounted on the chassis of a truck with higher clearance. I couldn't imagine how uncomfortable it must be to travel on this road in that - and I'm pretty sure all the passengers who stared wondrously at me thought the same of me standing in the pouring rain as I let this behemoth past.

One detail I recall vividly was the number of crosses along the roadside, far more than I've seen in a while. Given that there were very few sheer drops, that the road was bounded by vegetation or rock, that landslides were relatively rare and of much less power than elsewhere I concluded that poor driving must have been a primary cause. Watching how even the jeeps carefully negotiated the deep dips in the road I could see easily how a misjudgement of speed could flip a vehicle over with no effort.
After passing one particular rough spot I was able to follow the vivid and distinct rainbow river left by a vehicle suddenly leaking oil.
These patches are common on the roads here in the wet (and put the fear of God in me) but they are normally patches reflecting the drip, drip, drip of a leak. This was a constant trail, stronger in the slower zones but easily followable.

*Starting the last climb I was struggling badly. Then I looked back and saw these Palm Trees. The gain for my pain.*


There was a whole lot of pushing. With long gaps between traffic (and it virtually disappeared later in the afternoon) I was aware that a crash here could be very uncomfortable. Also, that if I went off one of the drops no-one would know. The gradients could be into double figures for short spans and were energy sapping. I've found that I notice climbing less when off road, distracted by staying upright. That wasn't the case today! 
On one short but brutal climb I was stuck at the summit. Pushing, my feet lost grip in the runny mud and it took all my effort to press down on the bike and keep it in place. Any attempt to push the bike resulted in an opposite force on my feet sending them sliding. I'm still not sure how I managed it but inch by inch we made it safely to the top. A motorcyclist stopped, hopped off and offered to help me. I thought that was unbelievably kind, if unnecessary, as I was now at the top and just trying to catch my breath. He was travelling the opposite direction and surprisingly to me had no idea how far away Ríosucio was! 

*There weren't many open views*


After about 1pm I came to a little roadside shed filled with a load of bricks (a note identified the owner - Marco) and pulled in to eat. Peanut butter on bread. Not the greatest meal, but not bad. At least I was out of the rain. 

A little later I started a descent, but not the final one. I dropped a couple of hundred meters and was pleased to note that I could break double figures in speed. That would be important in getting off the road before darkness fell. 

I was very tired starting the last climb. Physically, I was hitting my limit and my neck and back ached terribly, a combination of being tense on the bike trying to control it and a fixed position staring dead ahead. Also, there had been nowhere, and I mean nowhere to sit since the surface disappeared. A break was taken straddling the bike. There were very few places to lean the bike that didn't involve pulling it out of a gully or mud afterwards and nowhere to sit if there was. I enjoy my sitting time - it's as much psychological as physical. And as for a restorative cup of coffee?

*The final summit is just around that bend!*



​I had climbed 1000 meters to hit the first peak, dropped a couple of hundred and I'd go on to climb another 400 ish on the last climb. 
It wasn't pretty. 
No, it _was_ pretty, very pretty at times - the experience wasn't pretty. 
I couldn't take my eyes off the road because anytime I did I nearly came off. If I stopped to look around starting off again was very tough. My energy reserves were gone and I was running on empty. With rain going from drizzle to steady my body temperature fluctuated - steady when I was moving but rapidly cooling down if I stopped. I really wanted to sit down but there was nowhere. 
I needed to go on but I also needed to stop. An unresolvable conflict.
All the things I enjoy about this kind of road - the solitude, being able to stop where I like, enjoying the views, especially the "far from home" vegetation, the adventure and challenge of tackling the rough road - seemed to be denied me or conspiring against me. My spirits were pretty low.

To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (14 Jan 2022)

Day 849 Monday, January 10, 2022 Ríosucio to Jardín 51 km Total KM 15883
Min meters 1789, Max Meters 2902,
Total Climb 1406 Total Descent 1414
Min Temp 11 Max Temp 22 Ave Temp 14

The road to Hell Part Two

I was keeping an eye out for likely places to pitch the tent, but not surprisingly there were few options. By now I never expected to make it to Jardín since there was no way I'd be descending on this road in the dark. I'm feckless not totally stupid

*The condition of the road for my descent was inversely proportional to my joy in seeing it*


There was nothing for it but to take out the phone and play "No Nukes"! And it worked to a degree. Out of breath (I'm climbing at an elevation approaching 3000 meters) I hummed rather than sang. I laughed when Bruce talked about being nearly 30 and being "too old"! (I last saw him in concert in Germany a few years ago and he played almost 4 hours!)
I pedalled and ground and pushed, sometimes ploughed and struggled and slipped ever upwards. A couple of false summits almost killed me psychologically and physically. 

The summit when it finally came wasn't epic, it didn't gift me a panoramic view of blue skies and golden sun it was just a hump on a muddy rocky road. My camera tells me that it was at 16:49 giving me maybe 60 minutes of daylight to cover the last 20km. If I was lucky. In the mountains light can be tricky. The only consolation was that the rain had finally stopped.

*It was slow, tough, a tad dangerous but fantastic. How I wished I wasn't so tired or under time pressure. Had I seen a likely camping spot I'd have given serious consideration to staying and giving the road its due respect tomorrow*


Conscious of the fact that I was very tired I descended very carefully. I donned an extra layer for the cold - I could feel myself cooling down rapidly. I was disappointed because the vegetation all around seemed to become even more dense and interesting but I had no time to stop and appreciate it. I was aware of a real sense of loss - that I'd expended all this effort and was now going as fast as I could through the rewards and not really able to even look at it properly.

*A cascada celebrating with me. Bruce was now off and I had birds and water to accompany me.*



Then I rounded a bend to an open horizon and my first view of Jardín, 17km away by road. What a sight! 
I'd be less than human if I wasn't distracted and it would have been unnatural on that road if I hadn't fallen off as a result of that distraction. For an exhausted aul' fella, I managed to spring off and landed on my feet. With Roccado on the ground I could at least now take a photo or two! 

*I was missing great views and there's a sheer drop there - not even any magic tape to warn me*




​Maybe it was the sight of my destination (although still disturbingly far away), or the blue sky and sun after so long in the gloom but I think it was my surprisingly agile leap from calamity that lifted my spirits. The flesh was weak but not defeated and the mind was confident. I continued on down.

*My heart cracked a little to have to rush through here*


One advantage of travelling as well packed as I do on these roads is that the bike has lots of padding for the fall!

*Boom! The world opened up! Jardín is down there!*





I was travelling through a bird sanctuary and was aware of a lot of different bird voices as well as catching glimpses of bright colours flittering in the trees. Another shame to be rushing through. The open view had disappeared again and my front light was on. I continued descending hoping against hope that the surface would reappear. It had disappeared 5km after Ríosucio, equality suggested it should restart 5km from Jardín, no?

*The Boom knocked me off the bike!*


It actually came back about 8km from Jardin and then disappeared again around a bend sending me down a drop onto rock and mud and nearly killing me in the process. I was more careful after that. It came and went, sometimes in patches, sometimes in whole parts. It seemed like some malicious JCB driver had just dug up sections that offended them. There was always a drop from surface to non-surface and a corresponding step back up again. In fading light with a bright front light casting shadows it added an extra layer of interest.

*A sinking sun can be tricky*


Finally, with 5km to go the surface returned permanently, with only the odd pothole to contend with. I have to hand it to the Colombians - when they talk of equality through road building they really mean it! Ríosucio and Jardín have the same length of surfaced road! 
I flew! I had one objective, and only one - coffee! 

*I took this to demonstrate the ginormous leaves beside the road. They look totally insignificant now on my phone *


I arrived at the Plaza full of joy and anticipation, took in the Plaza, filled with life and basked in the feeling of achievement and sense of relief.
Then I saw the European style terraces on the wide paths, the same in the Plaza itself, noticed the horribly gaudy lights on the church, the horses, not tied up waiting for their bosses in the bars but for tourists and my spirits plummeted. I found a coffee place and nearly fell over at the price for a coffee. A dog started barking at me and would not stop. 
I looked around me at the bars pumping out music and had a realisation.

I'm in touristy hell!! 

*After one of the most difficult days on the bike I arrived in Touristy Hell*



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2022)

Day 850- 852, Tuesday - Thursday January 11 - 13, 2022 Jardín 


I appear to be mastering a new skill, an important one, that of being kind to myself. (I appreciate that sounds a bit self indulgent considering what I'm doing and where I'm doing it.).

_*The interior of the very impressive church. Like the town it was very, very calm. And like the town it was full of birds! They had free reign to fly and chatter around. Some pigeons were coo cooing somewhere up high. I found it extremely comfortable and spent a long time just enjoying.*_
*




*​iOverlander had a cheapish hotel on the edge of town that had cold water showers. After several hours in the rain I really didn't fancy a mountain water cold shower. I decided to check out a more modern one that I had passed close to the Plaza. It was a tad more expensive but had hot water. I checked in and everything changed. 

*A little stream (quebrada) running down to town. It danced over the rocks and made music as it tinkled downwards. *


First of all I learned that there was a fiesta in town. The Rose festival, in fact, that celebrates nature, basically. What a wonderful theme for a festival!
Then I had an amazing hot shower (it's one of the great things about a trip like this - I really get to appreciate the simple things) got dresssed and hit the Plaza for more coffee. Without the bike to consider I had more options and chose a cheap place with cheap, but excellent coffee. The noisy places were on the other side of the Plaza so I could let the music drift over me rather than be shaken by it. Two tintos later and Jardín was looking a whole lot better. I've heard of beer goggles but never knew coffee could have the same effect. And unlike beer the effect didn't wear off. For some reason I was reassured by the fact that a festival was taking place. Normal service would resume tomorrow.

*I just love these trees but they're damn hard to photograph. *


I took a wander in a large square shape surrounding the Plaza, not too far because I was exhausted. I found a friendly place to eat away from the noise and bustle then returned to the fray for another coffee. There was no need to worry about not sleeping tonight! 

I was really enjoying the atmosphere. Like most places here it was very family centric with lots of young children out and about. Alcohol was being consumed but there wasn't a trace of any excess or anti-social behaviour. I felt perfectly comfortable. 
The only problem was that I was exhausted. It felt so unfair. A Plaza with lots of seats, lots of coffee and other drinks, lots of people and atmosphere but I was so tired I was in danger of falling asleep. The flip side though was that when I went back to my room and got ready to sleep I was already looking forward to exploring the next day. 

_*Not a bad place for a walk. Or a bike ride! It's better than what I rode into town on. Lots of MTBers around. (Not on the road - in the Plaza drinking coffee!)*_
*



*​**************

Nobody told my body about my exploration plans! I slept until after 9am, a time incredibly late by my standards these days. 
I strolled down to the Plaza for coffee and sat in the sun. It was a lovely day for cycling but I wasn't even thinking about that. In fact, I wasn't thinking much at all. There was something so calm, so comfy that I left my head empty and just felt. 

*Arty Farty shot*



The next day writing this up I can't account for a few hours. Oh, I can recall the details - a couple of coffees, back to the hotel to arrange to stay another night, some breakfast, back to the Plaza for more coffee, but it felt like I was in the world's softest, safest comfort blanket. 
I didn't "do". I just "was". 

*A bigger quebrada ...... More music*



There's a very impressive church here but I took in no detail - it was enough that it was there.
There was no shortage of people wandering around, tourists and locals alike, but I paid no attention - it was enough that they were there. I enjoy eavesdropping, not for the voyeurism but for the challenge of language practice, but not today. Maybe it was just that I was tired but it *felt* different. It felt special. Special places should be treated well, specially.
A far, far cry from my first impression. 

At some stage I wonderd if I'd be having the same experience after a cold shower?

*Bamboo trees exploding from the ground. I am really enjoying these!*



Not a shred of guilt was felt for just sitting. My Colombian guide book describes Jardín as probably the most beautiful small town in Colombia. In my limited experience they're not far wrong. 
There's a gentleness in the atmosphere that belies its touristic status. It *is* a tourist hotspot, accessible by a better road in a different direction but it doesn't feel like one. 
There's no hawkers, no-one selling drugs, the tour operators have subtle signage and nothing else. Calm and gentle.

*After having to rush through the really interesting vegetation on the way to town it was so pleasant to saunter along some more. Evening things up.*



It's clearly prosperous and with little of the chaos so commonly associated with these mountain towns. Children play in the streets just one block off the Plaza - I haven't seen that before. 

*I talked this lot into posing for me*








*The beautiful, calm, very special Plaza*​






To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Jan 2022)

Day 850- 852, Tuesday - Thursday January 11 - 13, 2022 Jardín. Part Two

The streets are in excellent condition and footpaths are a pleasure to walk on - broad, consistent and unbroken.
Drivers aren't consistently using their horns. In fact, I'll hear more hoofsteps from horses than horns in my stay.
Houses are bright, cheerfully painted yet not in any way ostentatious. I formed the opinion that this is how houses are here, irrespective of tourists. Sure, on the edge of town the road surfaces disappear as do the footpaths and the homes become more rundown. That's a more familiar sight to me.

*Jardín*


There's hardly any street art though. I suppose with so many pretty, colourful and well kept buildings there just isn't the space. It also seems like a place that is confident and content - there's no need for murals protesting or advocating for peace. 
There's an impressive church, tasteless Christmas lighting aside, that somehow I just knew would be as impressive inside as out. I knew I'd go in to explore but I didn't until my second day. This is a place with no urgency. At all. 
iOverlander mentions a walk up above and around the town. I knew I'd do it but there was no rush. This is a place with no urgency. At all. 
There's a Cristo Rey statue high above the town, another place to visit. No rush. 

*Lots and lots and lots of colour*


Having gone to bed looking forward to exploring lunctime came and went and I hadn't moved much beyond the Plaza. I'm a terrible tourist! 

I set off for the walk up above the town and strolled along steep country lanes lined with beautiful trees, bushes and flowers. I was seeing nothing I haven't seen in these parts lots of times before, but on foot and filled with a total lack of urgency it was a different world. 
There were ríos and cascadas, so gentle like the town they were running down to. I swear they were making music, gentle, meditative music.
There were so many birds and like the town they were content and happy to express their contentment to the world. More music.
Even the houses up here looked content and happy. They expressed this in their bright colours, the reds, the yellows, the blues and oranges standing out happily against the various shades of green. 
I can't wait to get back to Ireland and measure up the place I have always condidered the greenest to see if I still think that. The greens here are amazing.

*Scary sky? What scary sky?? All I see is this magical tree. Two tuk tuks bounced past as I stood looking at this beauty. I'm sure they thought I was "special" *


There's a bar/café along the route where I stopped for some water and to sit. Not tired sitting was such a pleasurable experience after being denied to me the day before. The things we learn to appreciate. A few locals were boisterously knocking back a few beers but the town below me radiated up calm and contentedness. 

There's an ancient cable car that runs down to the town that brought a couple of tourists up every little while. They'd arrive, have a drink and catch it back down again. Checking with the barman I confirmed that I could continue walking in down and skipped the ancient cablecar. Maybe I'm not as lazy as I think or maybe I was just enjoying my walk too much.
On the edge of town it's not quite as tidy nor prosperous but the people are just as friendly, as smiley.
Actually, come to think of it, they were more friendly.
Back to the Plaza for coffee and time to let the afternoon take root in my memory. For a walk that wasn't in any way special in terms of what I saw it felt very special.

*The church and the Plaza.*



Tired, I returned to the hotel for a little while, updated this, enjoyed a hot shower and set off for a bite to eat. I ate in the Plaza from one of several food stalls having chorizo and chicken off the grill. It was surprisingly expensive and frankly disappointing but I had company as I ate. Two stray dogs plonked down on either side of me. Not in the slightest bit intimidating they sat silently as I ate. 
I took a stroll around the town enjoying the cool night air.

I can't tell the locals from the tourists. Yes, I can pick out the young (and some not so young backpackers) but the Colombians confuse me. 
In a town lacking any of the usual chaos that I see every day I can't pick out the person rushing to complete some errand. There are no queues at the banks. The terrace tables are filled with couples, families, groups young and old and I can't for the life of me determine who's a visitor and who's a local. I can sit in front of the church and see who's taking photos but that's about my only clue. Another unusual thing about this place.

My day finished sipping coffee on a terrace and watching everything and nothing. I was there for about an hour, was the last customer and gun to head I couldn't recall one detail about anything, only that it was a very pleasant hour.
******************

Special places should be treated specially. I took another day. 

Up at a more civilised hour I wandered down to the Plaza for a morning coffee. Cool air in the shade made stepping into the morning sun a pleasure. Sitting in it, sipping on a tinto was bliss. That's when I decided to stay another day. Yesterday seemed like a full day and all I had done was take a walk. 

Despite my early start it was after 10am when I went looking for breakfast and had the best one since México. Black pudding (blood sausage), scrambled eggs, an arepa and lots of cheese washed down with a bowl, yes! a bowl of coffee. 

And this is where Jardín falls down - service. The waitress (and later the cashier) couldn't have been more disinterested if they tried, the waitress actually walking away as I spoke to her, the cashier ditto when I was asking what time they were open since I fancied dinner there later and breakfast tomorrow.
It's the same at the coffee places - brusque is the order of the day. I find it strange. Mind you, it doesn't stop me buying coffee!

I went back to the Plaza simply because it feels so comfortable and had more coffee. 

_*A statue dedicated to women in the Plaza. *_
*A man approaches divinity when he is an artist, a woman when a mother. *



At some stage I set off up to the Cristo Rey statue above the town but on the opposite side to my wandering yesterday. Most people take a Tuk tuk up and more than a few passed me bouncing slowly on the uneven road. I was very contented walking. It was about noon and getting hot in the bright sun but I really didn't care because the sun just adds a layer of golden beauty to everything. 
There's quite a bit of paragliding here and for a while four paragliders were weaving through the sky.

It was a lovely walk, steep at times, rough all the time but I was in no rush. At the top a café appeared and a man looking after the car parking directed me onwards for more nice walking. Sure, why not?
Dropping down I encountered mud and dogs, at one stage eight of them yapping at me but continued on to a waterfall and the end of the road. Pretty and calming it was no better than anything I've seen already on my travels. I wanderd back past the dogs and stopped for a coffee and water and to enjoy the view of the town. 

It was a bit further to the statue, surprisingly small and another café. More coffee and water more enjoying the view. I spied a rough path heading downhill and was delighted to learn that I could follow it down to the town. Rough, steep and slippy it added a bit of fun and adventure to the day. 

*Christ the King! It's quite small actually. Lit at night it's visible from the Plaza.*



Then I headed to a bird sanctuary that I'd seen on iOverlander. Well hidden and not a sign to guide anyone it's a wonder they do any business. Asked on arrival where I was from I discovered it wasn't friendliness or the start of a conversation just a means of determining the price - foreigners pay more.

The birds are Andes Cock-of-the-Rock, big pigeon sized but bright red, blue and yellow. They're totally free so the idea is to perch yourself on a viewing platform and listen and watch. They're no Quetzals / Macaws but impressive. The area that they are in is quite dense but very pretty.

*The elusive birds. There are birds all over the town - not just pigeons - and there are signs in the Plaza to help folk identify them. *



Back in the Plaza I settled down for more coffee before returning to the hotel for a siesta. I was tired! 

Dinner was late but very tasty and reasonably priced. The best food I've come across in Colombia. Afterwards the Plaza was still buzzing calmly. I still couldn't tell local from tourist. 
**************

*I go to see birds and think "hmmm they're nice". Then I see these and think the entry fee was worth it *


The next morning I couldn't leave. I didn't feel like it. So I didn't! 

When am I ever going to be back here again? What's my rush? 

*Coffee country*


I'd love to say that I did loads, discovered more walks or hikes. But I didn't. 
I soaked. I absorbed. I wandered from coffee place to coffee place. I read. I wrote. What's really strange, to me anyway, is despite all the coffee I'm imbibing I'm incredibly relaxed! Magic coffee perhaps?

*Magic tree*



​And I regularly thought what a jammy, lucky fecker I am! 


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 853 Friday, January 14, 2022 Jardín to Andes 15 km Total KM 15898
Min meters 1274, Max Meters 1763,
Total Climb 169 Total Descent 610
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 25

Full of big plans

I really didn't want to leave.
I'm pretty sure it was the place and not the double climb later that made me feel that. 
Lord knows I had more than enough time to figure out why I liked the place so much but damned if I know.

It most certainly wasn't that I felt particularly welcome. I've felt more welcome in more places than here. This town just speaks to me - unfortunately in a language I haven't managed to translate yet! It is incredibly comfortable and relaxed is the default state for visitors, or this one at least.

I got up, popped out for coffee, loaded up the bike then folded. One last breakfast! Yum! Great food, sullen waitress. 

*Back on the road and the feeling is good*


Then out of town. Big plans today! I'm off to Jericó another small mountain village in some mountains that are higher than where I am. More backroads. Lots of climbing! More of the same, really. First I'll zoom downhill to a town called Andes - I really need to get me a picture of the town name then the offroad road starts. 

*Vegetation everywhere.*


I wasn't on the road ten minutes when my plans started to change. What looked like a brisk 15km drop down to the town of Andes wasn't as down as suggested. The climbs, steep and unexpected, slowed me down but that really wasn't a problem. The scenery was just stunning. 

*I've done no prep, no research, this area was never on my itinerary but Colombia does not disappoint!*


I had loved practically every moment in Jardín and truth be told I wasn't looking forward too much to getting back on the road today. I'm a bit shy of the climb. 
But I was loving this too! A different experience, for sure, one that I should be well used to by now, but Colombia continues to dazzle.
In Jardín I'd wanted to soak everything up, tattoo my soul with the place so that I can tap back into the experience whenever I want. Back on the road that urge hadn't gone away. I wanted to tatoo _everything_ onto my soul. 

*Coffee country on a sunny day. There are probably better views, but not many I'd suggest*


I stopped. Frequently. And for enough time to appreciate where I was. I spoke to a man working his field and his two dogs who were trying to be ferocious but were too curious to carry it off. I did my loon face and probably got more toots and waves than I have in a long time.
Back on a decent road in bright sunshine, early(ish) in the morning everything was fan-bloody-tastic! 

_*A road like this helps fire up my Mojo*_
*



*​I came to the turnoff for the town of Andes and laboured up a big hill. It didn't look big on the map and I was thinking a quick coffee, a photo with the sign and I'd be off. Ha Dumbass! 

If Jardín spoke to me sweetly and softly Andes growled with husky seduction.
It's nothing like Jardín. At best, it's the country bumpkin cousin to Jardín's sophisticated socialite. It's loud and rough and ready .......... and alive!! 
It's got street art and broken streets. It's got riducilously steep streets and taxis (I don't recall seeing a single taxi in Jardín. They had to be there but I didn't notice. Here? They'll run me down! )

*This is right beside me! Not to brag but looking at a photo is only a tiny proportion of the experience. The smells, the sounds, the wind moving through the leaves are the real experience*


It has a fine church on a pleasant Plaza. Just less refined than Jardín. It has terraces on the Plaza, like Jardín, but with plastic 
chairs, not those fancy wooden ones. There's a realness, a roughness that might grate on some ears but it's music to mine.

*If I ever get bored of these views it's time to put me out of my misery. The fact that all the work to get up here was done a few days ago certainly helps*


I got a coffee on the Plaza and the old waiter joined me. Gruff, to be sure but he was more interested in me than anyone in Jardín. It took all my language skills to understand him. Make a concession to the foreigner and speak a bit slowly? Not in this town! 

I had passed some impressive street art on the way to the Plaza, the church impressed me, I'd seen another spire on the edge of town, the streets dropped and rose hiding entire blocks from view. This was a town needing exploring! 

*I can be lost on the side of the road just trying to take in all the detail.*


I set off to look for a hotel. Not an easy task. Not many have a prominent sign. Pffffft! No concessions to the foreigners! Too many with too many steep stairs. I found one without a stairs and enquired. A tad steep but very, very comfortable. I checked in.

Then I skipped out to explore. I literally skipped! This town has an energy and I was plugged in! 

*The colours!!!*


This is a strange, hilly little town. I doubled back the way I came to catch some of the street art. Below me are a few coffee buyers, sacks of coffee all stacked up. It looked ..... simple, traditional, quaint almost. 

Then I set off to find the other church. That would have a Plaza too! Not the easiest task in a town as geographically chaotic as this (and with my appalling sense of direction) but I got there by availing of a raised walkway. I guess there's only so much climbing the locals are willing to do. 

*Today's Río is lively and remarkably clean and fresh looking*



​I found the church and had a coffee on the Plaza then set off higher to see if I could get a view of the town. I did and once that was done I followed my nose. With my early stop I had all the time in the world. My nose directed me gradually downwards and I explored the quiet market. I walked all over, up, down and around. I stopped for a cold drink and an empanada and continued on. 

It takes a lot out of you, this wandering in a hilly town like this. My ankle still isn't right and nearly going over in it didn't help a lot. Time for more coffee. 

It being a Friday the Plaza filled up as night fell. On one table the old men, on another the family with toddlers on another the youngsters drinking. I've always thought a good pub is defined by a mixed clientele - a place where everybody mixes - and the terraces in Andes were like that.

Another disappointing meal and another lap of the town then home to bed. Big day tomorrow - again!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 853 Friday, January 14, 2022, Andes


_*Making my way to the Plaza there was a twinge of excitement when I saw the spire of a second church. It would be a bit of an adventure to find it!*_
*








This was the first bit of street art that I saw.*









*The Plaza. A bit more rough'n'ready than Jardín but no worse for that. The fact that my coffee man sat down with me for a chat was proof of the difference.*









*Two Churches. The *Basilica*on the right is on the main Plaza. Unseen in the photo is netting in the doorways to prevent birds getting in!*










*Aerial view of an aerial town*​











*Street art.*​









*Stair art!*​









_*No space is wasted for art*_​*



*





*Three sights that charmed me; a bus half full of cargo, the "push cars" on the Plaza and a bird feeder between houses*​









*At the top of the stair art shot was this beauty*​







Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 854 Saturday, January 15, 2022 Andes to Jericó 35 km Total KM 15932
Min meters 1253, Max Meters 2184,
Total Climb 1166Total Descent 528
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 25


Will I ever learn???

With a big day ahead of me I was up before 5am and made coffee and some oatmeal in the room. With only my water boiler I dumped boiling water on the oatmeal and stirred. OK, but not great. I need to get me some quinoa! 

There was a buzz in Andes even that early in the morning. I really liked the town. There wasn't enough there to encourage me to stay especially after an extended stay in Jardín but it was more "real" than Jardín. 

Disappointed that they didn't have an "Andes" sign I rolled down the monster hill past the activity of the bus depot and then I saw it! Further away than I walked yesterday, hidden away and small by normal standards - the sign!! I pulled up and two guys sitting in front of it darted out of the way to let me take my photo. One even came over for a chat! It's that kind of town.

*Today's Río was cool and inviting in tbe early morning*


I set off on a very decent road still relatively flat with a hot, golden sun beautifying everything. It wasn't long until I veered right and the surface changed. I met an MTBer coming against me and he stopped to ask me where I was off to and strongly suggested that I take a different route to what I was proposing. At a little fork in the road he suggested to go right, not left - shorter, better surface and more "lindo". Lindo did it for me - pretty. A local, he'd know these things better than an electronic planner. 

*This was the "good" road!!*


I took his turn and my first thought was "if this is the good surface just how bad is the other one?". It was not easy. Bone dry with rocks (embedded) and stones (loose) it was a nightmare to ride on. Slipping, sliding and bouncing. Lots of bouncing! Not to mention the gradient. Straight into double figures.

*Beautiful countryside, an exciting road. I'm blessed!*


I took out Osmand for a look. Going this way it showed a route longer than I had planned with similar elevation gain - a big 1000 meter climb before a more "bumpy" continuation. The other route broke it into two climbs - 600 and 400. I continued on - local knowledge supercedes tech.

*Gaining height quickly is swiftly rewarded*


There was a lot of pushing. Too many times the front tyre would jump after hitting a rock and with all the weight I carry on the front the wheel would land oddly sending me in any direction. Not fun. These roads are what I brought the Extra Wheel trailer for. It would have been perfect today.

Climbing was both slow and swift. Slow in the sense that it was a struggle but swift because the views showed rapid gain. Views are the thing on a day like this and they did not disappoint! 

*That's my road down there!*​




I do wonder about myself at times. I'm not seeing anything I haven't seen before, I'm inflicting punishment on myself to travel a road like this and yet I marvel at and ogle what's all around me. Have I the memory of a goldfish? Am I going around the bend, metaphorically as well as literally? Or am I just making the most of my gift to myself? I plumped for the latter.

*Feckin' tough but most definitely worth the effort*


Traffic was incredibly light. A few jeeps packed with people, a few private SUVs, motorbikes most usually with families on board (it's Saturday) so I often had long, quiet stretches to myself.
Quiet is a relative term. I had the wonderful company of birds twittering and chattering, exulting in a glorious day and a constant supply of little ríos and cascadas making their own music. This is bloody tough cycling but it is gloriously beautiful. 

*More height, more views*


After about an hour I started having stomach cramps. I was wondering if it was the undercooked oats (unlikely) or using the tapwater to make the oatmeal and coffee. Not critical, but uncomfortable.

*Music and life*


Buenos Aires (!) was the only village on my route. About 650 meters up it would be a pleasant break. (The alternative had nothing for longer but looked like it would have an accommodation option closer to Jericó). That was my first target and meant that I could drink freely.

*I normally leave the roadshots for Strava but today's road was a star. A demanding star to be sure, but worthy of a bit of display*


There were a lot of folk out working in the fields and walking from one to another. Many short chats were had and helped emphasise the positive of travelling on a road like this. 

It seems that I have finally found a flaw in Osmand. In fairness, these are backroads in Colombia, not something that'll bother most cyclists. 
I came to a junction and Osmand was adamant about directing me off the main road. A quick check showed more climbing and a longer route by going Osmand's way. It was the same for bike or car options - it's supposed to take climbing into account for bikes.
I took the main road. 
The same thing happened later. At other junctions (a generous description) Osmand always selected the non-main road (another very generous description) even when that was longer and higher, even doubling back to choose the main road. Whatever information is contained in OSM about the "main" road it ain't good!
On these back roads I ignore Osmand's own calculations for climbing and descent and instead look at the profile and make my own rough calculations. The other day approaching Jardín Osmand clearly showed three "bumps" on the descent adding close to 500 meters climbing that simply did not exist. That is unusual. I think the usual discrepancies occur when Osmand doesn't take bridges into account and calculates the descent and rise of the "V" traversed by the bridge.

*A star of a road*



​It was very slow and tough going to Buenos Aires but very, very pleasant. I had some wonderful views and while places to stop were limited if I did I could always find a (dry) spot to sit on. 

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 854 Saturday, January 15, 2022 Andes to Jericó 35 km Total KM 15932
Min meters 1253, Max Meters 2184,
Total Climb 1166Total Descent 528
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 25

Will I ever learn??? Part Two

These mountain villages are steep and I laboured up to the church and small Plaza. After the customary photo I was approached by another cyclist out for the day - or at least that's what I thought judging by his bike! Remi's from France and is 6 weeks in to a tour of Colombia! Bikepacking. 
Talk about chalk and cheese in terms of bikes and gear! (He'd started with camping gear but left it in Bogotá when he realised hotel accommodation was plentiful and cheap).

*The simple church in Buenos Aires*


We had a very pleasant chat about bike touring - he's done Mèxico and Central America before and bonded over our love of Mexico and disdain for Panamá! 
I told him of some of my highpoints (he'd never heard of the Trampoline) and also my detour on the way north to Pasto. 
We took photos with the bikes - his, loaded, weighs less than any two of my panniers
I despise (with a passion) any attempt to categorise people heading off for an adventure on a bike. Who gives a flying fiddler's **** about the type of bike or the label? Despite the differences in our speed and daily distances we had far more in common than differences - and I say that about a Frenchman!

*The interesting road after Buenos Aires*


Since he was coming from Jericó he told me of a short climb ahead and then a levelling off. We parted and I set off up while he was going to have great fun going down! Gizmo wasn't agreeing with his assertion of a shortish climb but once again I came to a junction and once again Osmand had chosen the longer, higher way. 
I stopped to do some investigation. The "main road" was half the distance of Osmand's and one third of the climbing. By sticking with the main road the road levelled off around the next bend - the Osmand route had another 150 meters plus of climbing. I think it's trying to kill me! 

*The fabulous views!*


I stuck with the main road looking forward to a levelling off. First, though, I had another encounter with a snake! 
There it was, bright, vivid, luminous green, about a meter long, snaking across the road (as they do!). It took me a moment to register it so I jammed on my brakes stopping about a meter from it. The snake stopped too, it's head in the grass at the side of the road, orange eyes turned towards me and it's forked tongue working hard to recognise "sweaty Irish bike tourist", it's body standing out luminously against the grey/brown of the road. Delighted to be seeing some real, wild wildlife I reached for my camera. 
But then I paused. 
I know nothing about snakes. I'm from Ireland - we don't have any. Anyway, I'm in Colombia so know even less. But a thought crossed my mind. This fella is bright green and making no attempt to hide. He's not scared otherwise he'd slide into the vegetation and disappear. Billy big balls snake must have a reason to be fearless of the loon on the bike. I put the phone back and slowly manoeuvred the bike backwards suddenly conscious of my feet on the ground. With sufficient "safe space" between us I reached for the camera but he was gone! 
That was a thrill! 

*I don't know if I could ride these roads all day every day but they are a lot of fun every now and then!*


The road levelled off and descended erratically now. It wasn't high speed stuff but it was dangerous adventurous and fun. I knew I'd have another climb into Jericó but time was on my side and I could relax. 

*Not quite a waterfall, nor a cascada, more of a rapidly descending río that made beautiful music*


On the climb the land had gone from prosperous and diverse farmland to scrub to forest. Now on the way down the other side I had a similar experience in reverse. Again, rounding a bend I went from no coffee to lots of coffee! 
It still does it for me! I can't explain (and don't really want to investigate too much) but coffee plants inspire pure joy in me. The feeling is obviously more "pure" in the sun but even in miserable rain it's still a pretty good feeling.
There is no shortage of ex pats who have bought coffee farms here with no prior knowledge. I can understand the sentiment and the drive. Looking at the fields though, it's bloody hard work! 
The foreigners have an advantage exporting their coffee to their home countries utilising existing contacts. Small batch, hand picked, organic coffee allows restaurants and independent cafés to charge a premium. 

*Not a road for lapses in concentration*


Dogs were out and about today, mostly barkers, some furiously chasing and barking only to stop when I do, wag the tail and come over to make friends. I am so happy that there's been no negative reaction to my dog bite. It would have a huge impact on these days. Remi reckons that dog behaviour is a reflection of the people in a country. An interesting theory.

*Bouncing up the backroads*


There was a long push up to Jericó. A crap road (still), heavier traffic and a surprising amount of people out walking made it more pleasurable and social to walk.

*I think they're a type of Palm tree amongst all the others*


Remi had given me a tip for accommodation on the edge of town but I wanted to hit the centre. Nearly 20% gradient to push up! 
I stopped at a hotel and a guest became very excited taking photos, peppering me with questions and telling anyone passing about my trip. A pity he wouldn't pay for my room in return for some stories . Too expensive I stopped at another. Full. When I got to the Plaza I understood why. While definitely a working town it's also very touristy. I had my customary coffee and a chat with an old man who wanted to buy me a drink. Colombia! One coffee was enough so I declined. I thought I'd check out another iOverlander hotel down some ridiculously steep streets. Full!! The push back up was horrendous!
I turned around and rolled back to find Remi's suggestion. It turned out to be a hostel and not cheap. At least for a private room. Basic too. With no other options I checked in.

*Getting close to Jericó*


Then up to the Plaza for some atmosphere. 

*Jericó*



​

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 854 Saturday, January 15, 2022 Jericó 

*On the edge of town the houses are smaller, simpler but coloured. I liked the detail of tge "fancier" buildings but these felt more homely*



​



*A rare example of street art in Jericó*








_*Some of the "fancier" buildings in town. *_
*









A teeny tiny park on the way out of town. These towns like to make use of every opportunity to throw in a few plants and create a little garden wherever they can*








*The Plaza*








*This is one steep town amongst steep towns!*









*I saw this little house on the way into town and was charmed*










*The rather dull and uninspiring modern church. (I didn't go inside)*










_*Jericó is not a town for wandering around aimlessly on a loaded bike! *_
*



*





_*It's steep! Everywhere!*_
*



*


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 855 Sunday, January 16, 2022 Jericó to Wild Camp* 6.61 km Total KM 15939
Min meters 1469, Max Meters 2081,
Total Climb 171 Total Descent 659
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28


*Google: 5.8176654, -75.7547034
*Osmand: 5.81810° N, 75.75501° W


An easy day. Ha! Dumbass!

In absolutely no rush I slept a little late. The other residents of the hostel had gone out to "party" and continued when they got back. 
I got up and wandered to the kitchen for the free coffee and to make some oatmeal. I took the coffee but baulked at the notion of cooking in the place. It was gross. I hear the coming generation are the most switched on of all and are going to save the world, an optimistic perspective based on my hostel experiences

I wrote up some notes, loaded up and headed up to the Plaza for brekkie.

*This photo was taken at 1pm exactly and I was just leaving Jericó! I do like my lazy Sundays!*


Being a Sunday the Plaza was busy. Breakfast was regional and I couldn't determine one of the ingredients. Heavily flavoured with a tomato salsa it had a slight meaty tang but the texture was of rubber. Once the idea formed in my head that it was brains of some sort I concentrated on the eggs.

*Looking down on Jericó. The town didn't really speak to me. I found it a cross between Jardín and Jericó with little of the charm of either. That may be harsh and my opinion may be clouded by a less than optimum hostel.*


Having seen little of the Plaza in daylight yesterday I soaked up as much as I could. Unfortunately, my road out if town was another incredibly steep push - at least I got great views of the town. I paused at the last store for a rare treat - a cold coke and relaxed. I had no rush. A run downhill on backroads similar to what I had come up on then onto a main road. Hopefully some pleasant views.

*A Renault 4 and trailer! With colour scheme to match the (food) business!*


I set off again and pulled in almost as quickly beside another Christ the King statue. Fabulous views and from now on all downhill.

*A lovely road to descend*


A smallish road, narrow and with high hedges it was great fun although the Sunday traffic was a tad unpleasant. It's like Sunday is the day that people are on the road "on their own time" and as a result are more aggressive. I'll hear more (angry) horns on a Sunday than any other day.

*There's a sheer drop off to the left and paragliders ..... paragliding*


I came to my turnoff and paused. Those double tracks of corrugated concrete running upwards. Something seemed a bit off. I took out my phone for another look and yes, this was my road. I considered staying on the main one (prompted, it has to be said by my reluctance to push up the bloody steep monster in front of me) but as I thought a car passed and beeped at me. I dismounted and pushed up.

*Turning off the "main" road for the backroad. I hesitated. Maybe I should have listened to that nagging voice....*​




The other side was so steep going down that it was terrifying. A pick-up coming against me needed a run to get up the steep and twisty road. Then things settled down and I was treated to some fabulous views. And paragliders! I even managed a short conversation as a pair went by! Having passed a few places offering this and seen a few in the distance it was the close view that had me thinking that the next time I see a chance......

_*But what a view!! Nagging voice be damned!*_
*



*​I continued mainly down, sometimes up, on either rocky gravel or the corrugated concrete strips. The steep bits were steep, in excess of 25% and scary. Those concrete strips are narrow and rough on a loaded bike! In any case, I was in no rush.

*Another road to adventure!*






*Those twin strips of concrete mean steep!*






*Two sets of locked brakes and the saddle is still digging into my back to take this shot*



​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 855 Sunday, January 16, 2022 Jericó to Wild Camp* 6.61 km Total KM 15939
Min meters 1469, Max Meters 2081,
Total Climb 171 Total Descent 659
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28


*Google: 5.8176654, -75.7547034
*Osmand: 5.81810° N, 75.75501° W


An easy day. Ha! Dumbass! Part Two

*Ah now! This is feckin' epic!! Look at my road!*






*Bouncy but fun!*






*When I was imagining riding my bike in the Americas I most certainly did dream of roads like these!*


Then the road ended and a horse trail began. The thought had occurred to me on one of the crazy descents that having to turn around would be horrible - now I had a decision to make. 

*I was in my element! Not a sinner around. The closest people to me were the paragliders!*


Osmand had selected this route both for bike and car. All it was fit for was a horse. A quick calculation and I figured 8km to the main road wasn't that far. Oh how quickly I forget Costa Rica. Besides, it couldn't get much worse. Could it? 

_*If Carlsberg did roads.......*_
*



*​It did. And quickly. 
I didn't consider going back. I knew what lay there and it was bloody tough. At least this way I was going downhill with the option of a pleasant surprise. 

*Somebody said road? What road?*​






_*Rough going...... But look at that view!!*_
*








I have all this to myself!!*


It was ridiculously steep. Dangerously so. There was no riding. There was pushing and lifting and manhandling. There was sliding and falling, holding on for dear life and letting go for the same reason. Sometimes the path was beside a drop sometimes between large clifflike rocks. At times the path was natural having been created by the passage of animals, at others it was man made, dug between rocks, lined with stones and with large steps incorporated into the design. Those were the worst. There was always the danger of the whole bike flipping over, back over front. 

*And the first fall*​





Going down was never such hard work. Speed was measured in meters per hour not kms. I looked at Osmand and saw where my route seemed to meet up with another "road" before continuing on to the main one. Only 5km! All hope is not lost! The only problem was that I wasn't averaging anything close to even 500 meters an hour.

To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 855 Sunday, January 16, 2022 Jericó to Wild Camp* 6.61 km Total KM 15939
Min meters 1469, Max Meters 2081,
Total Climb 171 Total Descent 659
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28


*Google: 5.8176654, -75.7547034
*Osmand: 5.81810° N, 75.75501° W


An easy day. Ha! Dumbass! Part Three

*This is not getting any easier*


Water now became an issue. Not expecting this I was pretty light and began rationing. This was going to be a long, long day. The sun was out and blasting but I spent a lot of time in the dark, damp shade. Good for regulating temperature but it meant sticky, slippy mud. 

*But the view!!! The road and river are what I have to reach*


And then I met someone! A young fella on a horse coming the opposite direction. Nonplussed he was waiting patiently for me to round a corner.
"I think I'm a little lost!".
He smiled.
"I want to go to Bolomboló. Can I go this way?".
He smiled.
"Does it get easier?"
He smiled.

Well, at least someone knew where I was! 

*Steep, muddy, slippy*


Checking Osmand for progress was very disillusioning. Hours of sweat and effort and not a full km covered. It was dawning on me that I wasn't going to be seeing civilisation anytime today. I had food all I needed was water. 

*But that view!!!!*


A man, walking, carrying a bunch of sticks came up behind me and he too didn't seem to think the sight of a loaded bike tourist struggling on a horse path was anything unusual. He told me I'd reach the road. A little later I came upon a house and he was watching me go by. Something told me not to ask for water and he made no offer just watched me go by. I was a little uneasy for a while.

*Imagine living there! (I have a different perspective on that now)*


Going by another house I set off a load of dogs barking. No-one came out to investigate but I tripped on a rock, fell down and had the bike fall on top of me! If the dogs were more than yappers I was in trouble.

*There are mountain bikes and gravel bikes and road bikes and cross bikes and hybrid bikes. I've spotted a gap in the market - Jungle bikes!*


A way off in the distance I could hear the sound of rushing water. I know I've commented on the musical quality of mountain water before but this was a whole new level of aural pleasure. This was Handel's Messiah full blast in the Colombian jungle. I could only hope that my path would take me there. 

*This was an easy part!*


Eventually it did. Not big but moving fast enough that I could quickly collect water. Out with my filter and a refreshing drink! Bliss.

*An hour later..... Wedged!*


There was no real thought process to the decision to make camp near here. I looked around and of course there was no flat area. I set up on a slope, orienting the tent so my head would be up high. On muddy ground I tied the fly off to a couple of trees. I got organised and thought that I'd be alright as long as it didn't rain.

*And another fall.*



​Then the thunder and lightning started.

*Home*



Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 856 Monday, January 17, 2022 Wild Camp to Bolomboló 33km Total KM 15972
Min meters 932, Max Meters 1422,
Total Climb 580* Total Descent 903
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 29

* Gizmo was in my pocket and recorded all my traipsing up and down ferrying all my gear.


Whoever sang "Mommas don't let your sons grow up to be Cowboys" has obviously never been to Colombia

There had been the odd roar of thunder in the previous hour but with the patches of blue that I could see I had dismissed it. In fairness, thunder and even lightning can be a daily event and doesn't necessarily mean I'm in for a storm. This evening though? There was a storm. 

On a ridiculous slope with rain pouring down I skipped eating and fell asleep. Tomorrow will be better was my mantra.

*My kitchen!*


I slept ok given the circumstances. I did have a recurring dream - of a neat little pueblo, houses of pink and red brick and little streets. Oh what streets! Cobbled and lined with flowers of all different kinds and colours it looked idyllic. Sometimes our minds can be cruel to us.
Of course I kept sliding down, more when on my side than on my back. My mat slid too, the foot of it riding up the wall of the inner. Comfortable it wasn't but not bad considering.

_*Setting off from the tent. Around the bend there's a sheer drop of 10 meters or more to the left down to the río. Not likely to be fatal but possibly injurious and a hell to get back up again if carrying something like a bike.*_
*



*​Sunlight took a while to penetrate and when it woke me I repeated my mantra that today would be better. 
That didn't last beyond opening up and looking out. 
The vestibule was swarming with ants. And I'm using the word "swarm" appropriately not dramatically.
Remember all the times I've commented on the industry of ants carrying their loads in an organised and determined way, letting no obstacle slow them down? 
Well, the little (and very big!) buggers had gone to town on my gear! The plastic bags that my food lives in had been attacked and holes hacked out leaving the bags unusable. 
It'll seem silly but I've been using those bags for years - Albert Heijn and Jumbo - and they're a part of my system. I had to bin one some time back but I had a spare! 
One advantage of the Pandemic is always having spray alcohol on hand. A good spraying and the ants started decamping. That's when I saw the next level of damage - the footprint(s). Holes picked out and carted off. Not the start I wanted.

*The first staging point. This was my system for most of the day. It was hard work but seemed safer and had the advantage that I was constantly moving (as opposed to getting stuck) and the completion of each stage was a definite sign of progress.*


Packing everything up inside was complicated but finally I was out and the tent, surprisingly dry and clean*, was packed away. 
*It was neither dry nor clean but under the circumstances it's not surprising that my mind was searching for good news anywhere it could find it.

I wasn't hungry but knew I needed food and the río was as good as anywhere I'd get. I set up my Trangia and made coffee and oatmeal. In my tired state I made the coffee too strong and the oatmeal way too salty.
I filtered water for the day ahead and got ready to set off. Getting up, organised and breakfasted took about three hours and somewhere along the line the wallet for my phone fell into the río. It could have been worse - the phone could have been in it. Without that, though, the phone is much harder to use in humid or damp weather. 

*Mud and rocks. Slippy and unstable.*


Today I needed to change my strategy. The path along the river was high and single file only. After the rain it was muddy and slippy as ice. I carried two panniers about 300 or 400 meters to a "staging point", deposited them and returned for two more. Then returned for the last two bags. Then the bike.
This was the hard part and frankly, scary. 
Being right handed I walked on the left of the bike on the edge of a stiff drop. Slow and slippy. Progress was very, very slow. The walking over and back had made the path slippier for the most awkward load. Lesson learned.

The next stage the bike went first but the same pattern was followed. It felt like progress was faster because I was always moving but it was hard work. Fully loaded downhill, slipping and sliding back up to repeat the process. I was not a good advertisement for the joys of bike touring!

*This was where a hummingbird came over to check out the Feckin' eejit*


The landscape kept changing from wild vegetation and mud, the occasional steep drop to gullies between rocks or carved out of mud. It was exhausting. A light rain had started when I did and while it kept me cool it wasn't appreciated very much.

I'd check Osmand every now and then to see my progress towards where there _might_ be some kind of road. It was slow enough that I started to think of another night on the mountain.

*This doesn't look too bad but trying to drag and carry everything through was not easy*​




It wasn't all doom, gloom, mud and blood. There was some incredible, wild beauty around me. I developed my "system" so that when every stage was completed I'd sit and rest. Did you know that two Ortlieb panniers make an excellent seat? On one such occasion, surrounded by what can only be described as jungle I was treated to a wonderful choir of birdsong. I know I've mentioned birds chattering and twittering as I go past but this felt different. This was singing. A chorus. Joyful and happy all the more precious because the source was invisible and seemed to be spread over a wide area. I couldn't help but feel that this was for me.

On another such break, sitting, resting and silent I became aware of a rhythmic thumping in the air. A humming bird came over to investigate me. Close enough to touch it hovered, bouncing around, satisfying its curiousity. Lacking sunlight it seemed almost totally black. A special moment. 

*Oh how my heart leapt for joy when I saw this fine example of road engineering*


About noon the landscape changed and opened up. This created its own difficulties as now the path was difficult to follow. Sure, I had my gps but it regularly went a different way to the path I was on (with no option to go off course) only to match up again a little later. Seeing a fence further down I decided to explore a little.

While the land was now open it was very boggy. I could see deep hoof prints in the mud under the grass that pointed to where I should go. A house appeared, a large bungalow, not new but extended and to my joy I saw a couple of people. 
I called out and they looked at me. 
I explained I was a little lost and they looked at me.
I explained I was looking for the main road and they looked at me.
I asked if I could get there by pointing down the hill and the man said yes. And nothing more.
I asked if the road was far away and got "yes" as an answer.
I have to say that it was a very disappointing and disillusioning experience. I got the impression from the house and the people that they weren't farmers (as I'd expect up here) so it was quite possible that they enjoyed their privacy and didn't like to see it interrupted. All told, I was more than 90 minutes getting my stuff down through the boggy field beside their house. It was pretty clear that I was an inept tourist judging by what I was trying to carry and the number of times I slipped and fell. They had no reason to be wary - no-one could have mistaken me for anything but hapless.

I've commented a few times about how hard life must be in these parts with all work in the fields done by hand. This experience was teaching me another lesson: just how isolated life is. No cars. No public transport. Only a horse to get you and anything you need home. 

It wasn't all bad though. At the bottom of that field and on the other side of a fence (with a gate) was paradise! A road, of sorts. The kind of small, cobbled road that would appall me on another day was a joy to behold today! I may not be able to ride it but I could load the bike up and walk. A steady pace! Wahoooooooo! 

That's what I did; I got everything through the muddy gate and loaded up the bike and set off pushing. In my exuberance I'd missed a couple of details. The "road" was also a water course and the cobbles were lethally slippy for me as well as the bike. Remember, I'm constantly going downhill. Squeezing the brakes too tight and the front wheel locks then wanders where it will with the momentum of all my gear. Stopping my feet was no guarantee that they'd stop moving. My hoped for steady pace was barely a crawl. That delayed me noticing the second detail I'd missed - the "road" only ran about 150 meters and then it was back into a waterlogged field. That in turn returned to the closed in landscape I had been struggling through since yesterday. 

*And how my heart sank when it returned to this (via a boggy field). Definitely the lowest point of the last couple of days*


This was the lowest moment of the past couple of days. Already a bit out of sorts from the cool reception at the house (a couple of hours ago but only a couple of hundred meters away) this was like the last straw. Up to this point I'd been calm, stoic and not letting my emotions run away with me. Now I could feel them gathering strength and preparing to break out. That wasn't what I wanted. There was no place to stop and lean the bike so I picked a rock in the field and told myself to stay calm until there. I heaved and dragged and slipped to the rock and had a smoke and a chat with myself. 

My hope of a bit of a road was closer (but still very far away timewise) and I hadn't been expecting anything before that. I told myself that I was no worse off than expected, even if it didn't *feel* that way. I told myself to have a good look around and appreciate where I was and what I was seeing. The sun was out and I had great views of rolling farmland in the foreground and huge mountains in the heat haze in the distance. Then I unloaded the bike and got my system going again.

*The countryside opening up again and views returning.....



*​It was hot. And hard. As steep as it was going down it was brutally hard going back up. The bike went first with a bottle of water and a bottle remained with the bags - water at each end. I'd need to be careful again. There were a few cattle troughs filled with runoff water that I could use in emergency with a tab but I'd prefer not to. It was head down and grind.

*The path wasn't always so easy or clear to follow. Most of the land was soft and boggy. I was still using my staging system*



​
To be continued........

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (20 Jan 2022)

Day 856 Monday, January 17, 2022 Wild Camp to Bolomboló 33km Total KM 15972
Min meters 932, Max Meters 1422,
Total Climb 580* Total Descent 903
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 29

* Gizmo was in my pocket and recorded all my traipsing up and down ferrying all my gear.


Whoever sang "Mommas don't let your sons grow up to be Cowboys" has obviously never been to Colombia Part Two


The path weaved over and back, ever downwards through different fields normally with an open gate. Cattle disappeared after studying me for a while. It was on about the third stage that I met two cowboys. 
I was heading up to pick up the last two panniers and they were heading down. You'd swear that seeing a dumbass covered in mud traipsing through a field in the middle of nowhere was a common sight. We exchanged greetings and nothing more.
I picked up the panniers and headed back down to where the bike waited beside an open gate.
They waited and we had a short chat started by me saying that I was a little lost. 
They pointed to the panniers and offered to take them down for me. A little house on the right when I met the little road would have my bags. Gleefully I handed over two bags to each man and saw them hooked on to the horn of the saddle. Off they went.

*My heroes! Two Cowboys. I mean no disrespect when I describe them as typical country folk. They were quiet, barely using any unnecessary words, they were practical and totally calm. Just being in their presence was a balm.*


With a more manageable bike I could just make one trip. Now that I had scouts to follow it was interesting to see how the path moved around taking the easiest line. Many times in the grass I'd have wandered off the "path" but now I had a fresh one to follow. 
I don't know if they slowed down for my benefit or if this was a normal pace for them but I could keep up relatively well. It seemed like my luck had turned and I was feeling great. I was thirsty and hungry but I was making progress.

Osmand was right - the place I'd picked out was the start of a rough road. And this one wasn't going to disappear on me! But first the house. The two men turned in and left my panniers on the wall where I stopped and was packing up. My heart was filled with gratitude. 

*Osmand was right about something! This would lead me down to tge main road. I'd been travelling 6.5 hours to get here, a distance of less than 4km.*


I went over to them and explained how grateful I was and that I'd like to buy them a few beers. My money was refused gently with a smile. There was no need. I was offered a cold soft drink which I couldn't accept but did ask for some fresh water. He filled my bottle for me.

The main man spoke very little and very gently. The other chap was even quieter. Maybe they encounter feckin' eejits every other day but there was something so "normal" about the whole interaction. Something "good" in the air.

*Never has such a big road looked so welcome!!*


I set off, on the bike (!) down the bumpy, gravelly, rocky road. It wasn't easy but it felt so good. Before I knew it there was a big, perfect, empty four lane highway in front of me with a big wide generous shoulder! Where to go?

I was exhausted. It was about 3pm and the sun was blasting down. My original plan was Bolombolo more than 25 km north. I didn't care. Google Maps told me there was a smaller village on the way there closer. South there was another town but that was further away. Go closer. I set off.

_*In fairness to the road it is very pretty in its own right! *_
*Also, compare Ortliebs. The front absorbed lots of mud, the back none.*


Damn but it was hard. There was a headwind, there were rolling hills that killed me - I had no energy. The road was empty. But it was beautiful in the sunshine. I struggled. 
Then I had another chat with myself and told myself my head was on wrong. I shouldn't be looking for what was wrong, what was hard, I should be looking at what I'd done. That's when I realised that I hadn't expressed any gratitude for getting out of a sticky mess. I had a look around, thought about where I had been, thought about where I'd be without those two, kind men and I whooped once in gratitude, once for joy. (I had no more energy!)

What I had done was remarkably dumb. I was well aware of that from very early on.
There are not many days when not breaking a leg is considered a success and I had two of them in a row. An injury, a fall and I was in trouble.
My encounter with a snake the other day was a timely reminder that I know sod all about the dangers from animals in these parts. I can't count the number of spiders in webs that I avoided. A snakebite I figured would mean me trying to photo the thing then dropping everything to get down to civilisation as quickly as possible. 
Then there's the security situation. What if I stumble into someone's coca patch or poppy field? 
Surprisingly in the tent I had a weak phone signal (not a few meters away at the river). I'd thought about sending my location to someone, a copy of the gpx track and to request help if they hadn't heard from me in 24 hours. I figured it was insurance in case of accident or some dodgy people. 
But who to send it to? That's a pretty big ask. Someone who is not going to panic. Someone calm and logical. And most importantly someone who will not mock me relentlessly for the rest of my days about getting lost in the mountains. The problem is that all my friends would mock me relentlessly - the message remained unsent.

*Relief turns to despair! Of all the villages to be "Privado" it has to be this one, today!



*​With joy I pulled off the road to the small town of Cauca Viejo. According to Google it had lots of hotels! At last! A rest! Unfortunately it also had a gate and a guard. It's a private village. Yep. I don't understand either. A strategically placed store outside the gate was the source of a refreshing coke and I did a bit more digging. Sure, I could make a reservation but it was the kind of rate you'd expect in a private village. Thinking this day would never end I set off again. Another 20 odd kms. 

Seriously flagging, a fire truck pulled up beside me as I cycled along. The usual questions. I told them I was going to Bolomboló and the driver told me of a tunnel prohibited for bikes. Oh no!!!! Then he told me how I could avoid it. (As it turned out Osmand was already avoiding it). I explained about my tough couple of days and how grateful I was for them warning me of the tunnel. One of the guys asked me where I was going tomorrow. I looked at him and said "Tomorrow? I have no idea! I'll think about tomorrow, tomorrow". He really liked that answer and almost caused a crash trying to scramble across the driver to give me a fist bump.

*In fairness, Mother Nature was trying to ease the despair*


Near death experience aside the encounter lifted my spirits for the last stretch. I took the turnoff and left the highway behind now on a simple two laner alongside the Río Cauca. I passed some nurseries and basked in the aroma of fresh oregano. It put me in mind of a good pizza and made me hungry, though. 

*Down low it's hot! The shade is deliciously soothing. The view's not bad either!*



Bolomboló is a compressed, congested little place along the road. Chaotic and steep. Lots of small, cheap hotels but every single one had a horrible stairs. I couldn't face them. I stopped for a coffee and empanada. iOverlander had a hotel, swimming pool and campground outside of town. That'll do. I set off. I was nearly put off by a steep road down but committed.

*A río I could have jumped into but I was so tired I might never come out again*



​No camping (probably just as well) no hot water (a loss - my muscles ached terribly) but friendly people.
I checked in, showered and got permission to do my laundry (handwashing) in their facilities. My clothes were manky. 

*The simple church in Bolomboló. Dumbassery is over for a while......*


So was I. In the shower busy washing myself I found a bug on me (nothing unusual these days) but this one wasn't budging. A feckin' tick! A fat little fecker too! Why is it that everything wants to bite me in Colombia?
First aid kit out, tick tweesers and I finally got the bugger off. Alcohol and lots of it on the wound - no stinging and finally my day was over. 
I could relax.

*A pretty impressive shot (If I say so myself) of the Río Cauca. For most of yesterday and a lot of today it looked so far away...... Not anymore*​






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (25 Jan 2022)

Day 857 Tuesday, January 18, 2022 Bolomboló to La Pintada 48km Total KM 16020
Min meters 535, Max Meters 633,
Total Climb 484 Total Descent 410
Min Temp 25 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 33

Sometimes there's a lot to be said for the familiar!

I wandered up town for a bite to eat more out of a sense of duty to get some food into me rather than a desire. I was exhausted, sore and stiff. I got home and fell asleep with no problem at all in the oppressive heat - I'm down low again.

I slept late by my standards and struggled outside into bright sunshine. I was offered a tinto, gratefully accepted and sat down and thought......

I really wasn't feeling good. Two days struggling on a mountain will do that. My muscles ached. My arms were sore no doubt from hefting all those panniers down all those meters. I had bruises from the falls all over. And I was tired. I also had no destination in mind!

*The entrance/exit to the hotel. Damn near killed me!*



I've tried making contact with coffee farms through the Workaway organisation where travellers exchange labour for accommodation but I've been getting no responses. My figary to Jardín and then Jericó was partly to give time for responses. So far none.

I thought about staying another day to rest up but while there was a pool it wasn't the cleanest and there was no decent WiFi to keep me amused. The town, unusually for me, had little appeal. The Plaza, below the church was cut off from town and not populated and there was nowhere else to soak up the chaos of the town.
I decided to move on, but to where?
Venecia sounded good but there was a serious climb to get there. I decided to give my body a break. In fact, anywhere involved some hefty climbing. In the end I settled on La Pintada, back the way I had come because it was reasonably flat and had a chance to camp. The tent could do with a drying. Besides, after the last couple of days taking a familiar road was not a bad thing at all!

*Heading back along the Río Cauca. Familiar, yes, boring not at all. After the last few days a bit of familiarity was no bad thing!*


Getting out of the hotel was job one - up a massively steep road. I nearly lost my footing a couple of times and would have been smarter to have unloaded and used my staging system from yesterday!

I hit the town and stopped for a surprisingly good breakfast. Then, in baking heat I set off.

*Pleasant, easy cycling. *


Back along the Río Cauca then onto the deserted highway and onwards. It was all familiar territory but pleasant. I was a little less tired than yesterday and better able to enjoy the sights. The highway, like yesterday was very, very quiet. The heat made the rolling hills tough work.

*The highway. They do like to build separate bridges*


I only had about 50km to go, not a huge distance by any means but about as far as I felt like going. The thought of tackling a big climb in this heat was not appealing at all.

*An almost empty road, a fine shoulder and interesting views. Almost perfect. The rolling hills were a struggle though.*


My excitement for the day was supplied by a huge (to me) iguana that I disturbed sunbathing along the road.

*If every day was like this I'd probably go a little crazier than I am but for today? Just about perfect!*


There's a loopy approach to La Pintada from the highway and I actually looped around (and over) the campground I was hoping to use. It wasn't what I was expecting being a waterpark as well with dozens of their own tents set up and waiting. To make matters worse it looked closed.


I entered the town from the opposite side and saw no shortage of hotels so I wouldn't be stuck. I pulled in for a coffee and ordering a chocolate donut to go with it got an almighty sugar kick as it was filled with arequipe - that sweet caramel filling. I lazed over another coffee then set off to check out the camping option.

Osmand directed me to the wrong side past the hospital so I turned around and found the gate - open! That was the good news. The bad news was that it wasn't cheap and I had to book at least a breakfast as well. I thought a hotel might actually be cheaper but they all had horrible stairs and besides, I needed to dry out the tent and survey the damage to the floor.

*No matter what direction I go there are mountains! For the first time in a long, long time I wasn't looking forward to them!*



​I paid up, found a place to pitch then went for a swim. My arms ached, my shoulders ached and I thought a good swim would help loosen everything up. Afterwards, I wandered uptown for dinner overwhelmed again with tiredness, got back to the tent and quickly fell asleep.


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (27 Jan 2022)

Days 858-860 Wednsday, January 18 - Friday January 20, 2022, La Pintada

When I'd selected my pitch I was looking for privacy and shade from the sun - I hadn't thought about the lights in the grounds. It was almost as bright as day in the tent from floodlights but that didn't stop me from sleeping.

I awoke before the sun as the parrots who live here make quite a morning racket but then fell asleep again. When I did drag my ass out of the scratcher at about 8am I was still exhausted and sore. I had a cold shower and headed up for a pretty poor breakfast then, since chocolate was served instead of coffee I made my own and tried to think about where to go. I was still feeling very, very tired and any kind of thought process leading to a decision was hard work. I decided to take another day. 

*Not a bad place to be resting up. Very, very quiet during the week with lots and lots of these types of tents. Supplying a tent to campers is common here*


Once that was settled I patched up some holes in the mesh of the inner - I was lucky that few ants seemed to get through - I'd have been eaten alive! - and washed my front Ortliebs. They're a different material to the traditional Ortliebs, are not waterproof to my way of thinking - they absorb water that will work its way inside - and they had attracted a lot of mud. 

*Ant attack!*


That had me exhausted so I took my kindle to the shade to read but fell asleep. I woke up feeling worse. It would be reasonable to have some aches and pains after the exertions on the mountain but not like this. I have some bruising from all the falls but even so, my body wasn't feeling right. I took myself off to a pharmacy, explained the situation as best I could and was given some paracetamol and anti-inflammatories. 

An early night and a deep sleep.

*The "new" groundsheet is blue!*


The next morning it was time to do something. Most tick bites can be harmless but not all. Still feeling terrible I went to the hospital. A man at the gate listened to my story and flipped from casual to serious in a moment. I was told to take a seat.
Within ten minutes I was seeing a doctor. With some symptoms similar to Covid I was a bit worried but I had no fever. A bit of a cough, yes, a bit of a blocked nose, yes but nothing else other than sore muscles and aches and pains. 

*Mesh attack! *


Given a prescription I had to go to the inhouse pharmacy to get my drugs (€1) then return for two injections.
The nurse was no nonsense personified, slapping a bench for me to lie on and giving me a shot in each ass cheek with another patient sitting beside me. 

Then I'd to pay the bill (less than €5) and answer a whole load of questions from a pretty nurse whose colleagues kept telling me to ask her out. It's a sign of how poorly I was feeling that I couldn't even muster up any enthusiasm for that!

*They really went to town on the new groundsheet too!*


Job done I returned to the campground and booked in for another day. I wasn't going anywhere today. I had a swim and having been unable to track down a wifi signal I finally succeeded and got to update this. 

*The defendant*


As I was sitting down the sun changed and since it's so powerful I was inching back into the shade limited by my need to have the phone plugged in. Guillermo came over to warn me about the sun and then set me up in the shade with my own chair! Responsible for the pool (and having been a bit snotty with me in the morning over not having a swimming cap) he was now very pleasant and chatty asking me about Ireland and my trip. When he returned to the pool the music playing changed from Latin to U2, the Cranberries and some traditional Irish stuff. That'll help on a poorly day! 

I was starting to feel better as the day progressed. From what I can make out the shots I got are to treat the symptoms I'm currently feeling. I'll need to be aware of any recurrence and keep an eye out for any rashes in case of potential Lyme disease. The thing is that both Lyme disease and rabies have a lot of commonality! Indeed as does Covid! If I become unwell further down the road it's going to be fun trying to get a diagnosis!

The tent took quite a battering from the ants! I've heard of people spraying the inner with bug repellent but not the footprints. In one vestibule they ate through the piece that connects the footprint to the fly as well as lots of holes in the footprint itself. 
They attacked the mesh creating several holes (nearly all in one vestibule) and really went to town on some mesh in the airvent of the fly. That's relatively harmless, though. 
My idea that the tent was relatively clean and dry was a total illusion revealed when I set it up! 
At this stage I'm ready to give up on the tent. I've never liked it and don't trust it. It's interesting now with the extra groundsheet I put under it. There has always been a problem with a damp or wet floor despite using the official footprint. Because my new groundsheet is in a diagonal shape I can see in the morning that that area is dry but the original floor is wet where the new groundsheet doesn't cover. 
I don't think the tent will be coming back to Europe with me and I'll hit the first Decathlon I see. 

*Not the greatest photo in the world but it shows how moisture comes in from the ground through the tent floor and footprint - the new footprint blocks it. Reimpregnate the material? Possibly, but this has been an issue from day one.*


The bike suffered too in the mountain adventure.
One of the prongs for the front mudguard came out of its socket but it's an SKS mudguard and designed to do that for safety. I wedged it back in and it seems to be in place ok. 
My bottle cage for my Trangia fuel got a little bent but I think I can fix that easily enough. The rear gears are a bit slippy but I think all that is needed is a clean - there was a lot of mud in the cassette. A light I had strapped to the seatpost broke off. I have the light and only carry it on tbe seatpost so no harm there. The big loss is my mirror! It came off somewhere on the last day. In fairness it has been bodged and McGyvered so much it was on its very last leg. Other than all that Roccado seems to have endured the adventure better than myself! 

*Ditto. Damp floor. *


I took yet another day at the campsite. I still wasn't feeling great, although improved, and I figured spending time in the fresh air was preferable to sleeping in a hotel - there's no camping options for a while. I also needed to figure out where I'm going.
I had my heart set on a few weeks at a coffee finca but I'm getting no responses which is frustrating. Medellín is just up the road. Maybe I should give a big Colombian city another chance? It's the second most livable city in South America.

In any case, my mind was made up for me when I set about giving the bike a good clean. My rear rim is failing! There's a nasty crack running about a third of the way around the rim. It's possible that something got embedded in the rubber of the brakeblock and created the crack but the most likely reason is that the rim is coming to the end of its life. 
That's now a priority to get a new rim, at least, or possibly a whole new wheel, although the hub is newer. 
I can't complain. That rim has travelled the Rhine, to Italy over the Alps, from NL to Ireland and back, all of this trip and lots of smaller trips in NL. All pretty heavily loaded. There must be 25000km on that rim, at least.
I remember when thinking that a rim brake rim would eventually wear out just how hypothetical that was. Here I am, down the road and it's finally happening - what an absolutely amazing complaint to have! I've worn out the rim on my bike having adventures! 
I don't think I'd have it any other way!

*Proof of adventure!*



​I also found more holes in the floor of the tent. Four of them, three quarters ovals in the floor area of the inner. The buggers were closer to me than I thought! 

There's a casa de ciclista outside of Medellín and they operate a bike shop too. That's my next target. 


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (1 Feb 2022)

Day 861 Saturday, January 22, 2022, La Pintada to Santa Barbara 26km Total KM 16046
Min meters 612, Max Meters 1836,
Total Climb 1330 Total Descent 119
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 29 Ave Temp 25

Back on the road

I wasn't feeling it this morning at all. It wasn't that I was staying in a fantastic location - it was pleasant - it's just that there was a severe lack of enthusiasm. And I still wasn't feeling 100%. 

I brewed coffee, started getting organised then broke off for breakfast. At breakfast I decided to stay another day..... But changed my mind. The day was shaping up to be cloudy and cooler - I may as well make the most of that. There was a lot of climbing to do, cooler temperatures can only help.

*Setting off...... After dithering and changing my mind about leaving I decided it was better to take advantage of the gloomy and cooler weather*


I was very late leaving which was kind of dumb considering all the climbing I had to do. Osmand had a gentle introduction then a 1000 meter climb.
In reality, "gentle" was relative. I was climbing from the get go. The gentleness came from regular descents.

*There was a time when I'd curse and swear at descents on a ling climb...... But low clouds hugging mountains take the sting out of them*


It was good to be back on the bike though. The road was a simple, good two laner with a narrow shoulder that had the unfortunate habit of slimming down to nothing on bends. Traffic was light, or at least tended to bunch up leaving long gaps of peace and quiet.
It was constantly twisting and turning with the gradient on some of the bends pretty steep. With no traffic it was fine, with traffic it was unpleasant. I'd often just pull off the road to let the traffic by. Less stressful.

The climbing was relentless though. Hard work. I was effectively travelling along a ridge with potential views to one side or another but mist and cloud cut down what I could see. 

*I'm no photographer and can't do justice to scenes like these but these were a highpoint of the day. Lots of hairpin bends (very, very steep) with amazing views*


I stopped at a roadside restaurant for some scrambled eggs and coffee but other than that there were few pleasant places to stop and rest. 

*Forgive the roadshot but look at that view!*


With about 7km to go Osmand did it again! It directed me off the road and between two houses onto another horse path! No way! I don't know what underlying data OSM has but it needs updating! There's a lot of things that can be said about me but I do learn from *some* of my cock ups!

*Always climbing!*


Then I hit traffic! A mammoth tailback (that ran all the way to Santa Barbara) caused by a simple accident, a truck (probably well over on the wrong side of the road to make a bend) had removed the front wing of an SUV. Nothing serious but traffic was stopped in both directions.

*With all that climbing there are some great views*


This meant that I could continue in relative comfort although I was the only interesting thing for a lot of people! Lots of smiles, waves and even a few conversations (I wasn't climbing fast!). I was nearly at the top when tre traffic started moving again so I waited for gaps in the traffic to finish the climb.

*Clear up close but fading to mystery 8n the distance. Can I ever go back to NL after this?*


Santa Barbara was not like I was expecting it to be. For some reason (I've no idea why) I expected it to be a little touristy. Not a bit of it. It's a "working" town and incredibly steep. 
I laboured up to the Plaza and with no coffee vendors managed to get one from a surly lady operating out of one of several huts on the perimeter.

*Mist might limit the views but I do like the mood it creates*


I could see a small hotel as I sipped my coffee. I could also see its stairs - a horrible, steep dogleg. I could see another on a far corner. On closer inspection that was over a bar. Not a peaceful spot on a Saturday night. I finished my coffee and wandered. Two more hotels, more incredibly steep stairs with doglegs. I continued on.
Another street, another hotel. Stairs, yes, but only about a dozen. No internet and the promised hot water was ice cold. When I plugged in my phone to charge the light went out! 

*The church in Santa Barbra. Probably the most elegant building in the whole town*


Home! 

*The busy Plaza. There was a real "working" vibe to the town, tough as old boots but comfortable once "broken in". *



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Feb 2022)

Day 862 Sunday, January 23, 2022, Santa Barbara to Caldas 33km Total KM 16079
Min meters 1802, Max Meters 2494,
Total Climb 834 Total Descent 886
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 25

Knocking off another Colombian climb (completely by accident)

*There is never, and I mean never, a dull moment on these roads!*



I slept surprisingly well given that the electrics kept blowing. Up earlyish and out to get on the road. A short day meant that I wasn't too worried about breakfast - I'd get something on the way rather than worry about negotiating the steep town. That was my first mistake! 
After climbing ridiculously steep streets out of town I passed nowhere to get a coffee ..... or anything. Having expended so much effort to get back on the main road (it loops around the town) I was now hungry! Nothing for it but to double back to town on the main road. 
That was my second mistake! I ended up going all the way back to where I had turned off last night!

*After detouring for food and losing lots of time I settled in to some climbing*



While having my coffee two cyclists pulled up with the same idea as me. One was all talk, or all questions, to be accurate.
How heavy was the bike?
How heavy was all my gear?
How many kms had I travelled?
How many kms do I do every day?
How many days?
The two guys had set off on January 1st to Ecuador, turned around at the border and were now heading north. Big km days. Everything about them was fast - from the way they wolfed their food to the way I was peppered with questions. I asked them what they liked best about their trip to be told the challenge. Perhaps my Spanish isn't up to scratch but neither of them could answer what things they valued from the trip, what would they remember when they were old men. I just got confused looks. 

*There was something about that road that got into my head. Imagine having the time (and a lighter load not to mention a wheel not in danger of collapsing!) to take a wander and see where it goes. Maybe I'm the dumbest bike tourist but I'd have no hesitation about heading off down there.*


Like yesterday the road was a twisty two laner with lots of trucks. Again, traffic was bunched so I tended to pull in for safety's sake. There were some wonderful views, especially on some of the crazy steep hairpin bends. 

*There's no doubting the scale of the beauty of these mountains but the life evident in them has its own beauty too. Life must be hard (imagine what it must have been like before internal combustion engines!) but what a place to live!*


As it turned out (!) this is another famous climb. Alto de Minas. I'm starting to understand that when Gatorade is advertised it's a popular route for bikes. I reached the top to some restaurants, had a coffee and cheesy bread then set off down the other side. I needed to be careful using only my front brake. I'm confident that my rear rim isn't going to fail spectacularly but I'm not going to tempt fate by using the brakes if I can avoid it. A few trucks descended very slowly and I generally pulled in to let them away although once I kicked my heart into gear while knocking a few years off my life by overtaking one!

*The mighty Roccado! Battered but not broken still taking me higher and higher*


Caldas was a busy, hectic place. I headed for the Plaza, got my coffee and for once found it a little difficult to relax. Put a gun to my head and I couldn't say why. I'm on the edge of Medellín so that could be it.

_*Road signs and helpfully expanding my vocabulary!*_
*



*​I found a charming hotel run by an old lady. Brutally formal until all the paperwork was done then mutating into a lovable granny character.

*Not all roads are made equally*


I set out to explore and find a wallet type thingy for my phone. Notes and photos are suffering with a sweaty phone and sweaty fingers. I could find nothing, not even a sense of comfort. Everything seemed just a tad faster, a tad less social. There was definitely more of a "big city" feel than I've become used to. I was approached for money several times. When I'm not able to relax in the park I'm off form for the rest of the town. My impression of Caldas was of a town in constant chaos. Thankfully, I could leave the chaos at the door of the hotel.

*Maybe I'm the laziest bike tourist of them all, maybe I'm going a little crazy but I can stand at the side of the road and be lost in these scenes. The jags, the crags, the valleys, the peaks. It's a visual orchestral performance - one big sound that a bit of time allows me to pick out the individual instruments.*





*Trying to capture the view on a sweeping bend*





_*On the way down...... I may well have blinded drivers on the opposite side with a beaming, grinning loon face!*_
*



*​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (2 Feb 2022)

Day 863 Monday, January 24, 2022, Caldas to San Antonio de Prado 17km Total KM 16096
Min meters 1660, Max Meters 1940,
Total Climb 453 Total Descent 331
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 35 Ave Temp 28

This touring thing is tougher than it looks!

With a short day ahead of me I took a wander for breakfast and another quest for a wallet for my phone. Both quests satisfied but neither particularly satisfying. The wallet is too small to be useful and breakfast was poor.

I'm heading to the Casa de Ciclistas of Medellín, even though it's in a village above Medellín. They have a bike shop in the town and lots of experience with touring cyclists. I'll have a place to stay for as long as I need and the chance to meet other bike tourers.

*Hardly any photos today! The road was busy, rough through an urban area and I was so sweaty the phone was unusable. This is San Antonio de Prado but that short, brutal hill was typical of what I was encountering for a lot of the short day*


I thought I'd have a short, urban day and that it wouldn't take all that long. I was half right. It was a brutally tough day with crazy, steep climbs followed by dangerously steep drops - in an urban landscape. I'd chosen to stay off the highway and wasn't sure if that was a good call or not. There were times I could be seen standing on a mad slope, leaning into it, holding on to the bike for all I was worth trying to summon up the energy to push another little bit. Amongst all the traffic. Again and again! 

*The unusual church in San Antonio de Prado*



I finally arrived into the very pleasant town of San Antonio de Prado. When I say it's pleasant I'm referring to the buildings, the vibe and the people - I am most certainly not referring to the hills! These mountain towns have to be experienced! 
I found the Plaza and to give an indication of the town a young man (and his girlfriend) immediately approached me for a chat and to buy me a drink. When I gratefully declined I had to argue that I didn't need the money he was trying to give me. 
While this was going on a Canadian and his young son butted in to the conversation. Now I was trying to carry on two conversations in two languages! I had a coffee in my hand but couldn't drink it! (The coffee, very strangely was instant and made before my stunned eyes!)

*The road to the Casa de Ciclistas*


The Canadian was a little odd and a tad intense, monopolising the conversation. 
He wanted to know where to bring his son (based on my experiences) and wasn't too impressed with my suggestion to ask his son where he wanted to go. 
He kept asking me for the "best" places of my trip despite me explaining that my favourite "places" were _experiences_, not places. There was a sense of relief when he wandered off leaving me to have a more gentle conversation with the couple.

I hit the bike shop to introduce myself and got the bad news that they had no rim suitable - or at least, strong enough. No panic - they'd ask around.

_*It's in a pretty special part of the world*_
*



*​Then I set off out the road to the house itself, about 3,5km on country roads. The climbing was not finished for the day! 

_*Nearly home!*_
*



*​I arrived a sweaty wreck to discover that I had a very pleasant roommate from Ecuador. An ice cold mountain water shower and I was ready to be sociable.

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Feb 2022)

Days 864 - 869 Tuesday, January 25 - Sunday January 30, 2022, La Casa de Ciclistas, Medellín

La Casa de Ciclistas

There are a number of "Casas de Ciclistas" around the world. This is my first visit to one (the one near Antigua didn't respond to my messages).
The concept is simple: A place for bike tourists to stay en route. Often times there are places for several bike tourists, sometimes an equipped space to work on bikes and sometimes a shop associated where a bike tourist can pick up some of those things that can be hard to find elsewhere.
Pretty much all of them (that I know of, at least) are run voluntarily. Some people, it seems, like the idea of dirty, smelly bike tourists coming to stay! 
Well, that's what they got with me!

*The Cyclist. An exercise for the Spanish learners......*



Cat, the Ecuadorian cyclist was much more pleasantly fragrant having recovered from a bout of Covid over the past three weeks. She's heading north to Alaska. 
When people ask me why I'm doing this trip my answer is pretty simple - because I can. My original idea was to wait and do this as a "I'm not dead yet" retirement trip. I used to postpone things. I don't anymore. Life is short and never works out the way that we might like - at least mine doesn't. I'm doing this while I can.
Cat's response to that question will remain private but gave me a whole buffet for thought. 
Cat did a three and a four day shakedown ride then set off for Alaska with no other biking experience - there's a lesson in there for touring hesitants.

*The Casa is on a hill that is covered in all types of vegetation including Manuels own herbal garden. At dawn the birdsong is simply breathtaking and a wonderfully vibrant way to start the day*


Simon and Nicki showed up the day after Cat left. Two Austrians, thwarted with an eastern trip - They made it as far as Turkey - they upped sticks and headed to Mexico. Minimal touring experience, although with excellent (and expensive!) bikes they are making the most of their detour and hope to hit Africa after Argentina. 

*Manuel (in front), Simon, Vicki and two visiting Venezuelans. They had passed through a few years ago. The guy had just graduated from University in Chile and was returning home with his girlfriend - on bikes! Because the Peru/Ecuador border is closed they had to pay $20 each to be "guided" (read not attacked) on backroads.*


All this company was wonderful but made me realise that I've become quite lonely. Maybe it's the fact that this little adventure is winding down or maybe it's the cumulative effect of 28 months on the road, in foreign parts, in a global pandemic. The source, I figure, isn't that important. The reality is.
It was brought to a head when Simon & Vicki asked me why I don't continue on south now that Ecuador is open. (Peru isn't).
To answer, I had to verbalise that I've had enough - for now. I'm finding it more difficult to stay positive and while I'm reasonably confident that I have the strength and the stamina to stay positive it would be foolish not to be cognisant of the source and the effort required to overcome it.
There are other things I want to do and only some of those involve riding a bike from place to new place. I need energy for those things too.
"Rebalancing" was a goal seting off - If I'm not rebalanced by now I'm totally fecked!

*The Casa. Two stories of basic accommodation decorated by previous travellers and with bits of bikes everywhere.*


I was able to work all this out while waiting for news on a possible rim for the bike. The Casa is always being improved and I played my part by sanding down an old metal gate. Great therapy if hard, dusty work. 

Unfortunately, the shop contacts turned up nothing. That's not to say there were no 26 inch rims - just a shortage of good, strong ones. I could get one (the same as I have) from Europe or the US (the US agent never replied) but I set off myself to Envigado (a recommendation) to check out their bike shops. Cheap Chinese rims aplenty. Poorly finished. I'm far from a rim expert but even I was wary.
I found a pair of Schwalbe rims that seemed heavier and better finished. I bought them - one for me and one for the next cyclist in my position (I'm not overly generous - they were sold as a pair). I got them built with my old hub and while it wouldn't get me to Argentina, I'm assured it will keep me going until I get back to Europe. Then a whole new wheel will be cheaper and quicker. (Simon needed to order a new hydraulic brake and the hoops to be jumped through (and the cost!) were mind boggling). 

*A map of Colombia (I've covered quite a bit!) and above engravings on bamboo of previous cyclists. Hosting cyclists since 2008 looking at that wall made me feel part of a community yet simultaneously lonely. Every account I have read of bike tours involved meeting others along the way. The curse of Covid.*​





It was my first time on a bus since NL! It didn't go well! The first bus did a loop dropping me off where I got on! Finding a bus from Envigado back was even more difficult - the bus driver misunderstanding my question about San Antonio de Prado and confiming he was going to San Antonio - in the centre of Medellín! Oh well, I got to see the centre of Medellín and don't need to go back.

A highlight of my week off was waking up with a mild hangover! I tend to take the view that a hangover is a sign of an evening (or sometimes a decadent afternoon) well spent. 
When Manuel (the host) suggested a trip into the town for a few beers (he did say coffee too but no-one was believing that one!) I jumped at the chance. Simon and Nicki declined as they were leaving the next morning. 
At home I'd have no problem going into a bar on my own but over here? No.
I've had no interest in hitting any of the tourist bars in any places I've been but have been reluctant to go alone to any of the "normal" bars on my own.
We met up with a friend of Manuel's and started in a quiet shop/bar. Then a few places of different styles and clientele. I loved it! Being the foreigner I was made welcome everywhere and often asked for music to play (normally YouTube on big screens). On a Saturday night in a town of 200,000 souls there was plenty of young fellas pulling wheelies on motorbikes but no anti-social behaviour or aggression. A very interesting and pleasant night. 

_*The basic kitchen with artwork donated or created by bike tourists. Some have stayed a day or two, others for months. There's a calmness to the place, easy access to a big city and a genuine welcome that is easy to succumb to.*_
*



*​
With a new rear wheel I sanded down the bike to remove a build up of rust, sprayed on some primer, made a dog's dinner of trying to paint over that, so sanded again and put another layer of primer on. Roccado's got a whole new colour scheme and looks worse than ever. 

*Roccado getting some TLC*



Wifi was pretty poor and I made a few attempts to update this but gave up in frustration. It was kind of pleasant to be unplugged for a few days.

At other times I was trying to figure out how to round off my time in Colombia. Only one Workaway response (not this month, maybe next month) so it looks like I'll be staying on the road. Looking at my big map it's very interesting just how much I have covered! Oh, there's big parts of Colombia that I haven't been near but there are good reasons for that, but I've really packed a lot into my Colombian adventure.
My eyes kept falling on the Pacific. One last trip to the Pacific! Head north and do a circular route to bring me back to north of Manizales. Then maybe the Alto de Letras in reverse? Then the big climb to Bogotá and an aeroplane to Europe.

*Loaded up at the road and ready to leave this oasis of calm*



Manuel and Marta are the hosts at the Casa. I barely met Marta as she went off with Cat for a few days. Manuel, the host was most definitely an interesting character and an impressive human. I could have stayed longer, regularly told to stay as long as I wanted. I'm a bit in awe of people like this. There's generosity and there's this. I hosted Warmshowers guests back in NL but I didn't take everyone who wanted to stay - some were just taking the p***. Like I say, I'm in awe.

*A mountainside settlement. San Antonio de Prado is ranked as the largest suburb if Medellín but is very agricultural outside of the town limits.*



I'll be leaving a week to the day after I arrived, a new rear wheel, new colours on Roccado. The last leg is about to start! 

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Feb 2022)

Day 870 Monday, January 31, 2022, San Antonio de Prado to Amagá 34km Total KM 16130
Min meters 1438, Max Meters 1926,
Total Climb 651 Total Descent 1089
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 31

Heading North! To the Pacific! Again!

It gets cold at night at these heights (+/-1800 meters) and stays cold at first light. An icy cold mountain water shower is a great way to shock an old body into life.

I made coffee, got my bags outside and cleaned the place up. I said my goodbyes and hit the road.

*On the road away from the oasis that is La Casa de Ciclistas*



The road into and out of the town is pretty spectacular and it didn't take long for the sun-drenched country to overpower my dread of some of the horrible, steep climbs.
Stopped to take a photo I ended up having a long and detailed conversation with a motorcyclist. Hitting the town I headed on out and down the crazy steep streets.

Being about 10km from the centre of Medellín traffic was pretty heavy but the worst was the incredibly steep sections - in both directions. Really tough going up and pretty hairy going down. Worse, these were all short sections to be repeated again and again.

_*Not bliss, but not too bad. On the highway after all the urban climbing and dropping. With a new rim the plan is to stay on bigger roads for a few days*_
*



*​
Needing cash I headed for the Plaza in Estrella and wasted an hour queueing up at two different ATMs that didn't work when I got to them. Frustrating.

Finally, I made it onto a highway where I had a shoulder. Traffic was heavy, climbing was common, the temperature was rising quickly but I had my shoulder. Not bliss, but not bad.

*There's always some great trees and the shade is very welcome these days*



Stopped in the shade Les pulled up on his way to Ecuador. A puncture had left him trailing his buddy but we passed a pleasant hour chatting - mostly him doing the talking. Cycling is new to him but travelling doesn't faze him. He works his way to and around various countries. While chatting away he borrowed my knife and made a flagpole from a young bamboo tree!
For all the talk on fora like this one about bikes and gear the local touring cyclists that I meet display only a cursory interest in such things. Les had a bike barely "suitable" for a tour. His helmet was a construction hard hat with an elastic strap. He had two "proper" panniers that would make the Aldi/Lidl offerings seem like world beaters. These were tied on with string (to a possibly homemade rack) the cheap, ropey kind that frays easily. The same string was holding a couple of bags over the front wheel. Yet he was one of the most enthusiastic, spirited travellers I have met. Bike touring - it's not about the gear.

*Resistencia. Artwork on the highway*



I set off again and wasn't enjoying the climbing. A kind of rolling road it made for slow, hot going. To add to the atmosphere my old friend "subsidence" made a return and was a reason to stay on alert for most of the day. Thankfully, I passed a filling station with two ATMs! (The advantage of big roads!). Of course, one wasn't working but the other gave me some cash. Saved!

*A (very short) tunnel with a road especially for me! And a very powerful sun!*



I continued on and after passing Caldas came to my turn off to the town of Amagá. A big climb in front of me I stopped for a cold drink and a bite to eat then set off on the last biggish climb of the day.
A two laner became a beautiful split 4 laner at the top with a beautiful, wide shoulder all for me! I was whizzing down until I came to an unexpected tunnel but there's a road around it that bikes have to take. Then the 4 lanes were reduced to roadworks and I was bouncing through and choking on lots of dust.
That was my story the rest of the way to Amagá - some beautiful four lanes, a few two lanes and some singletrack chaos.

*Climbing in very pleasant countryside. I was finding it tough*



The town is incredibly steep and rather than roll all the way to the Plaza (and push back up later or tomorrow) I stopped at an iOverlander hotel. A very pleasant rate from a very pleasant man, an incredibly cold shower and I was ready to go explore.

*But the views are good!*








*When the road was good it was pretty spectacular*




And when it was bad......




For anyone paying attention, the fact that I passed Caldas probably reinforces my apalling sense of direction, but this time, it's actually correct.
This morning, while having coffee I couldn't drum up enthusiasm for the Pacific coast. It looked big, busy, stressful and will be very, very hot. So, I'm taking a figary. 28 months on the road and I haven't crossed the equator....... Yet.
I'm going to Ecuador!
Sometimes being on my own has its advantages

_*The ridicilously steep town! No way was I going down there on a loaded bike "on spec". Take the hotel at the top!*_
*



*​

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Feb 2022)

Day 870 Monday, January 31, 2022, San Antonio de Prado to Amagá 34km Total KM 16130
Min meters 1438, Max Meters 1926,
Total Climb 651 Total Descent 1089
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 31

Heading North! To the Pacific! Again! The Towns along the way.......


*The pretty church and small Plaza in La Estrella. For a town not far from Medellín it was pleasant and friendly, even if the ATMs didn't work*





_*A mountain village. These are scattered all around Medellín with lots of those high rise towers. To my eyes, these explosions of life amidst the green mountains are interesting and attractive in their own way*_
_*










The sprawling suburbs of Caldas. In the centre it's very steep but that's hard to see from this angle. Les also told me that it's a town where it always rains. Locals have a derogatory name for the place.








Roccado, defying gravity in Amagá








A bit of the Plaza, the jeeps synonymous with Coffee country and the colourful town hall in the background









It still amazes me just how close to "nature" these town are



*_​





_*The Plaza and the church. The Plaza is split on two different levels. These towns are steeeeeeeeeep! *_
*



*







_*Football artwork*_
_*









Streets are narrow, chaotic with a hodgepodge of building styles









Still lots of bright colours. The top one may look odd because of the steepness of the street.*_
*



*​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Feb 2022)

Day 871 Tuesday, February 01, 2022, Amagá to Fredonia 19km Total KM 16149
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1831,
Total Climb 801 Total Descent 426
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 30

Meeting some old friends again!

It was way too late going to sleep last night. Slow WiFi took ages to upload photos and the room (with no windows) unsurprisingly smelt of damp from the bathroom so my big plans for a dawn departure took a battering. I was exhausted.

Up at about 8:30 I headed off sans coffee or breakfast - there was no way I was wandering back down town. Even walking back up to the hotel last night was hard work.

*Old friends!! Not a great photo but my first chance to photograph the random yellow trees scattered through the landscape. Maybe I've been on the road too long but the sight of these old friends really lifts the spirits!*



I had to double back aways to take a different road and thankfully found a bakery for coffee and food. Fuelled up I was ready to head off but with no actual destination. I could go to Venecia (a place I thought of visiting from Bolomboló but rejected because I couldn't face the climbing), a bit off my route to the south or I could go to Fredonia. If I was feeling really sprightly I could do both - not a massive increase in kms but a doubling of meters to climb. I'd come to a junction and could make my mind up then.

_*Ten minutes later....... *_
_*What a road! Magic! Mysterious!*_
*



*​
Setting off was the perfect post breakfast situation - a long, sweeping descent in pretty country. The road was the real star though, twisting, turning and dropping and regularly reminding me that I'm in earthquake country with lots of steep subsidence and sometimes a lack of surface. Nothing like a bit of adventure in the morning! Except it wasn't quite morning. It was late morning and the sun was blasting. Hot! Hot! Hot! But the road looked after that too giving me lots of shade on a regular basis. 400 meters of downhill bliss, beauty and adventure.

_*Geologically unstable! If you ever see one of those signs in these parts - believe it!*_
*



*​
Flying down exciting roads with loads to admire is one of the really great things about bike touring. Unfortunately, what went down needed to go back up and that was tough. Very tough. Gradients were steep and shade disappeared as the sun hit the zenith. And I was tired. On these roads there are few places to stop and get off the bike so any opportunity was grabbed greedily. The sweeping fast bends on the way down were horrendously steep on the way up. The bumps and subsidence that were fun and exciting coming down are trickier going up. Then the road liked to throw hills on top of hills at me - a short section, maybe 50 meters of extra steep road on a road already steep. Killers.

_*Great views when they weren't hidden by trees along the roadside*_
*



*​I had at least 600 meters of climbing before I decided which way to go and I'm pretty sure I felt every single meter. There were no flat sections, no descents just a constant climb. I was really struggling.

*Resting. On the descent!*



My mood wasn't helped when thinking I could get into my granny gear the chain skipped off and landed between cassette and wheel. Since Cartagena the gear indicator is broken so I can't tell what gear I'm in. I've been extra careful with the indexing to make sure the chain can't reach that far and had the perfect setup at the Casa to index the gears by hanging Roccado from the ceiling. Annoying.

*These roads can be great for getting close to Nature.*



Arriving at the junction that was decision time I opted for Fredonia. It meant more climbing but going to Venecia meant a long drop - meters I'd have to regain tomorrow and tomorrow looks like it'll be a long one.

*A bloody tough climb with a steep drop to the left - but great views!*



Those last couple of hundred meters nearly killed me!

*Ghost trees I call them*




At the top I pulled in for a coffee to be disappointed when no coffee was to be had. A cold coke relieved some of my disappointment. Then a flattish run in to Fredonia to be hit with another get-off-and-push stretch up to the Plaza.

*Incredibly tall trees that made me feel like a king (a sweaty, unfit, slightly foul mouthed monarch to be honest)*



I spied a hotel with steps that weren't too bad and enquired. A bit pricey but iOverlander had another even pricier. I checked in and another mountain cold water shower revived me.

_*Such views. I'm not going fast but then again, I don't want to!*_
*



*​
Off to explore!

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (5 Feb 2022)

Day 871 Tuesday, February 01, 2022, Amagá to Fredonia 19km Total KM 16149
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1831,
Total Climb 801 Total Descent 426
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 30

Meeting some old friends again!

Fredonia

An interesting name the origins of which are unknown to me and an interesting little town, but not at first glance.

*The Plaza and the Church in Fredonia. I took a couple of coffees from pmeasant ladies beside the church and basked in the early evening vibes and sights*


I headed for the Plaza and was charmed by the church, vivid and proud towering over the split level Plaza. A big cup of coffee - actually big and served in an actual cup - from a friendly waitress and I sat down to watch. 

_*Steep and chaotic streets with fantastic mountains at the end. Coming from the order and neatness of NL these streets still retain shock value for me but there's a life and vibrancy to them I find refreshing.*_
*



*​Fredonia is in the coffee growing area, evidenced by a few coffee buyers in town even though I saw little on my way up and what I did see looked untended. For that reason it was strange that the only vendors in the Plaza were for fruit juices. 
Speaking of coffee, on my way south (on the other side of the mountains) the coffee was usually served already sweetened whereas on this side sugar is served separately. 

*The sun playing on the mountains behind the town. Sitting, savouring a good coffee I was in my element.*​




Sitting down, especially on up high where I was gives a great opportunity to pick up on the details that I'd missed on my first pass. The brightly coloured buildings are surprisingly easy to miss because of the distracting (and often frantic) commercial activities on the ground floor and signage above. Sitting down, relaxing, a good coffee in hand is a great way to savour the mountains looming over the town everywhere I look. A second cup of coffee means that the sun changes what it favours with its warmth and enhancement. Hmmmmm...... Observant traveller or lazy bike tourist?

The thing with these mountainy towns that still gets me are the narrow, higgildy piggidly streets stretching up or down with epic mountains framed at the end. 
I can't for the life of me capture the impression on a camera but the effect on this bike tourist is as fresh and powerful as when he first saw it back in Guatemala.

_*Behind the church a scene typical of these mountain towns - stairs and art.*_








There's really not much to the town other than the Plaza. The streets running away from it become more dilapidated with distance and their side streets smaller and even more dilapidated. Houses that look "normal" from the front are really just a facade with a steep stairs inside running up or down to the living areas. I wander around comfortably here, sometimes getting the odd stare. Off the bike I appear more strange than on. 

*Street art. Not particularly high-quality (but better than I could ever do), but bright, cheerful, local and a little proud. *


A lot of these towns will have some kind of statue, or possibly a cross (and sometimes both) high on a mountain looking over the town. Practically invisible in daylight they come into their own at night - an illuminated white presence floating over the town in the darkness. In Fredonia, with looming hills so close to the town and houses on those looming hills there was the added "star effect" of apparently large, strangely shaped "stars" hanging in the sky over the town. A little other worldly but a pleasant little place.

*This was a shop. Where I lived in NL such a colourful front would be fined! *









*I can't describe the feeling (nor accurately capture the scene) of the chaos of the man made street and the regal beauty of Nature. These are magical scenes to me.*








*Narrow, steep, chaotic but full of life*








*Street Art*








*More street art - the bottom one is for a punture service - every town and little settlement has one - these guys are thinking big! *



​


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 Feb 2022)

Day 872 Wednesday, February 02, 2022, Fredonia to La Felisa* 87km Total KM 16236
Min meters 582, Max Meters 1807,
Total Climb 760 Total Descent 1821
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 44 Ave Temp 32

*Google: 5.3788713, -75.6084265

You ain't a beauty but hey you're alright.... (B. Springsteen)

It was a very deceptive morning. A room facing west onto a narrow street meant that it was fresh and dark when I woke up ie cold! A breakfast across the road in a bakery and I was ready to get everything down the stairs and out. Hitting the Plaza was the proof of the deception - a blasting sun when there was nothing to block it. 
My road out of town was steep and ended up being closed off. Not a problem - four different people took it upon themselves to explain how I could get back on route - pretty much one on every corner. A real community effort! There was no discussion on where I wanted to go - there's only the one road!

*9am out of the town and the view is filtered through a haze of heat*


Back on the little road I had the perfect start to the day - a long, sweeping descent on narrow, interesting and exciting roads. It was hot but the wind of a swift descent kept me cool. A short 150 meter climb made me all the more grateful for the descent when it resumed again. It was surprisingly tough.

_*Rural Colombia can be a very vivid place*_
*



*​What didn't help was a strange sound coming out of my rear hub. Oh dear. At the top I unloaded the bike and investigated. There's definitely something not right. There's nothing I can do about it at the moment and I'm heading for La Pintada one of the very few places I've been without a bike shop (I looked when I saw the state of my rim).

_*Yellow trees and an interesting road*_
*



*​Back on the descent I tried to keep pedalling since that seemed to help minimise the odd noise but that was surprisingly difficult to do. Despite the noise it was a wonderful descent through beautiful country. I had the road practically to myself most of the time and while there weren't many places to stop and park the bike there was no problem stopping on the road. 

*There was something magical in the colours and variety in this little corner*



At one stage I had to stop to let the rims cool down - it was heavy on the brakes with regular subsidence and potholes. The sun dappled shade was both very pleasant and very dangerous hiding the bike traps.
A mighty iguana caught my eye along the roadside then crossed over in front of me causing me to slow right down. I watched him sway into the long grass and disappear then noticed the scattering of rocks ahead of me. I think my lizard friend saved me from a fall!

_*Sometimes there is just so much life.......*_
*



*​My target was the Río Cauca (again!) and I crossed it at Puente Iglesias then rejoined the big, empty highway to take me to La Pintada (again!).

_*Way down there..... The Río Cauca..... Again! At least this time I have a road to get me down there!*_
*









Hazy heat*










_*There's always a fabulous tree!*_
*



*






_*Getting lower ........ And getting hotter!*_
*



*




_*The Río Cauca. If I wanted, I could hop in here, join the Magdalena later and end up back at Barranquilla! (Barranquilla is the hometown of Shakira - had I known that I wouldn't have bypassed it*_
*



*​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 Feb 2022)

Day 872 Wednesday, February 02, 2022, Fredonia to La Felisa* 87km Total KM 16236
Min meters 582, Max Meters 1807,
Total Climb 760 Total Descent 1821
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 44 Ave Temp 32

*Google: 5.3788713, -75.6084265

You ain't a beauty but hey you're alright.... (B. Springsteen) Part Two


I don't normally do this but the road was exceptional today (until it wasn't). Here are some "roadshots" ......

































































Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (7 Feb 2022)

Day 872 Wednesday, February 02, 2022, Fredonia to La Felisa* 87km Total KM 16236
Min meters 582, Max Meters 1807,
Total Climb 760 Total Descent 1821
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 44 Ave Temp 32

*Google: 5.3788713, -75.6084265

You ain't a beauty but hey you're alright.... (B. Springsteen) Part Three




​At an elevation of between 500 and 600 meters now it was hot! A steady pace kept a cool wind and I was making decent progress. My route diverted me around La Pintada but I pulled off for coffee and a bite and to ask (again) for a bike mechanic. No joy. I set off again in the heat onto a rough two laner with a lot of traffic. Thankfully a small shoulder appeared after a little while and I could relax a bit.

*Back on the familiar highway! Still unbelievably empty!*


I was now following the Río Cauca through a river valley. I'd read Tim Tower's notes last night and I wasn't seeing the beauty that he did. The río was so far below me as to be invisible and the countryside was scraggly. As it was I was busy enough navigating the narrow shoulder with a lot of traffic.

*After La Pintada everything became more interesting!*


Then things changed. The road became a split 4 laner with a generous shoulder all for me. Bliss! Going against the río I was climbing slowly but making decent progress. Then the road went back to two lanes but kept the decent shoulder. I had a "bump" in the road that looked like another 150 meter climb and they even laid on a climbing lane! More bliss.

*A rare view of the river as I travelled alongside*


Then it all changed. Long before the top the road became road works and the three lanes became one. That one lane meant traffic travelling in one direction got to use the lane while the others formed a never ending line and waited their turn.
Not wanting to be swamped especially going uphill when my side all started travelling the narrow road I rejoined the Catholic church and weaved myself past the workers and continued along staying out of everyone's way. If caught or stopped I'd admit my sin and ask forgiveness - The Catholic way. As it was, no-one was bothered.

*Getting caught out after sneaking ahead of the traffic on my side*


Such was the rest of the journey. Sometimes a decent two lane road with broad shoulders and sometimes an unsurfaced lane. Regular tailbacks in both directions and sometimes I had the whole road to myself when the last car against me had passed and the first from my own direction was way back the road. A few motorbikers did as I did but most waited. A long line of motorbikes was the first sign of a line of traffic coming up behind me, followed by the queue jumpers - invariably fast and impatient blasting the horn to get me out of their way - then the normal traffic of trucks and cars.

*Crappy surface, lots of dust, a long, steady line of traffic against me ...... But look at that light falling on the mountain*


All this coincided with better views of the river and landscape - in theory. The reality was loads of dust and all the crap associated with roadworks from mounds of gravel to lots of traffic cones and all kinds of temporary buildings along the roadside. 
Such was the rest of my day. Dealing with roadworks, dust, lines of traffic and surfaces that contained just about everything. There's never a dull moment in Colombia!

*Crappy surface, lots of dust, a long, steady line of traffic against me ...... But look at that light falling on the mountain*



Tim had especially mentioned a hotel along the way that he found. He didn't stay but had a coffee and gave a very detailed write up. In the dust and the chaos it was starting to sound good. When I did come across it it was closed and covered in dust!

*And more light effects in the lull between traffic*


Because of the delays along the way I was running out of light but pulled in for a cold drink about 10km from La Felisa where I hoped to stop. 

_*Chaos at a little settlement along the river*_
*



*​Suitably refreshed I set off weaving in and out of a long line of traffic.
The stop start nature of the roadworks continued and I passed the toll booth in the dark although the sky above me was still bright - river valleys in the evening light with a descending sun can be heaven on a bike. One hospedaje was closed and I was getting worried - all the workers on the road would need accommodation and I'm sure lots of drivers delayed by the work would want a bed too. Tim had mentioned a new hotel out the road and I headed out. Without knowing it was there I'd have passed it - not a sign to be seen. Reception was hidden in an outbuilding but I got a cheap room and a cold shower. Dinner was delicious from a restaurant beside a filling station.
As I was walking over to eat the last of the sunlight was reflected onto the clouds above the valley. A delicate pinky, orange colour which was dominated by cables and pylons and water tanks and satellite dishes from my vantage point. It wasn't picturesque but it was pretty damn beautiful.

*Down close to the río, surprisingly fast and rough*




​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (8 Feb 2022)

Day 873 Thursday, February 03, 2022, La Felisa to Truckstop near La Manuelita* 48km Total KM 16284
Min meters 742, Max Meters 1159,
Total Climb 815 Total Descent 442
Min Temp 27 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 36

* Google: 5.0589146, -75.6082029

A truck stop education

I'm very tired in the mornings these days. I was late getting to sleep and my desire to be leaving at 6am turned out to be a folly. I did get to enjoy a decent breakfast at the restaurant though. Setting off the sun was already up and it was hot. I had about 1km of iffy road until it split and taking the main road to Manizales everything improved. The road was wider and I had a very decent shoulder. Best of all - no more roadworks!

*I saw a sign for a tunnel and my heart sank imagining having to turn around but my disappointment was short lived. A decent shoulder was provided and while pedestrians were prohibited there was nothing to stop me!*


Still beside the river the valley was pretty without a coating of dust. I was really able to enjoy it as I felt like the only traveller on (my side of) the road. Back aways the traffic was all backed up at the roadworks! I'd have peace and quiet then a long, steady line of traffic then relative peace again.

_*This house on the bank of the surging río had its own cablecar to cross the river*_
*



*​The road was rolling and in the heat quite tough. I'm lacking energy. My diet isn't great so I picked up some Vitamin supplements in Fredonia - all I need to do now is remember to take the damn things.

Had I not had my problems with the hub there would be a number of options open to me. I could, for example, turn off to Ríosucio and do that fabulous ridge in reverse having another night on the mirador. Or, as was my plan, turn off the main road here and take backroads that would take me north of Manizales - a route I wanted to do on my way down but was advised against because of landslides. That option would leave me with making a decision to head south past Calí or doing the Trampolín again! 

*Roadsigns. I believe the bottom one refers to mountain climbing*



​Unfortunately, those roads are rough and I'm not taking a noisy hub on a trek of a few hundred kms on Colombian backroads.
My target, therefore is Santa Rosa de Cabal - again! I _know_ there are bike shops there although I'm not expecting to make it today. Too many meters. 
Having not planned this in any way at all my goal is to either repeat the parts I really liked or (usually) take the road not travelled with an emphasis on the small ones. I need my hub to be sounding better than it is for that!

*A very pleasant road nearly all day with lots of road with minimal traffic (because it was all held up behind)*


I stopped at a roadside restaurant for a coffee and cold drink. In this heat I'm sweating a lot and warm water is unpleasant to drink. I took a turn off to pass through the village of Irra (no bike mechanics - lots of motorbike ones) but didn't hang around. A little later I pulled in again for more coffee/cold water and rested up. With a few exceptions the climbing is gentle but the steeper stuff starts soon. I'll be rejoining the road I took out of Manizales - the coffee highway!

*The riverside town of Irra*


All in all it was a pleasant day's cycling but hot and tough at times. The temperature is a funny thing fluctuating betwen 35 and 38C but only becoming really hot when the sun is blasting me. At times I can feel like a rasher on a grill. 
No roadworks was definitely an improvement!

*A tributary to the Río Cauca. With highlanfs to my right abd the río to my left there were a lot of tributaries.*


I knew of one basic roadside hotel and pulled up there not willing to face into another 10km of climbing to Chinchina. I could avoid Chinchina altogether in the morning to hit Santa Rosa de Cabal. Another truck stop will only make me appreciate the delights of coffee country towns!

*Colombia is great for throwing in a splash of colour!*



What I thought would be a dull night with nothing of interest to see turned out to be anything but. 
There's a new thing since January that immigration papers have to be shown to check in to hotels - this was the first place I came across it. I had to await "clearance" from the computer. A small irritation but given the cold shower to follow getting in to my room I like to hit the icy water before I cool down too much.
I had a siesta for an hour then wandered to the restaurant to eat. Delicious frijoles (beans) in rice with a fatty leg of chicken in a bizarre sweet and sour sauce. The place is also a transport hub so there was lots of activity (and dust) to keep me amused.
A few young Venezuelans were hanging around and two were quick to approach the "Gringo" looking for money. I'm usually happy enough to pass over a small amount in exchange for a bit of a chat and some understanding but I became nervous when the two guys hovered around the table and wouldn't leave. The reason became apparent though. One of them wanted the remains of my chicken leg - everything else I had eaten. 
At first I was disgusted at the thought but that changed to guilt pretty quickly. He scrounged a side plate and removed the bones and fatty skin to eat elsewhere. It was his delight and gratitude that unsettled me deeply. 
I had planned to buy myself a few treats to take back to my room but couldn't and returned in a sombre mood.

*A fabulous tree*


Recent elections in Chile had Venezuelan immigration as a main plank for both candidates. A protest last week attacked a makeshift settlement where Venezuelans were living. According to Chilean government statistics all crime rates have risen significantly since Venezuelans started fleeing. The problem with stats is that they can be easily "adjusted". Does anyone really trust their Government these days? 
At this stage I've met Venezuelans all the way back to México. They have been waiters and juice sellers in lots of towns in Colombia. (They tend to pass through the poorer countries in Central America). I've encountered many on the roads. Sullen some might be (and I can't blame them) but many are friendly and supportive - a natural response to a fellow traveller and the most recent were the two in the Casa de Ciclistas just passing through.
It's disturbing to me to witness the poverty amongst them and I wasn't finished witnessing it. Stepping out of my room the next morning behind a fence where the trucks parked, there were the young lads lying in front of the trucks where they had slept. 

*As the evening draws in the heat drops and the less intense light starts to weave its magic*


The other thing of interest that I saw were two hookers plying their trade in the truck carpark. Illuminated under the security lights when I was going back to my room about 8pm they were still around the next morning at 7am. A truck stop / carpark on the side of the road. What a place to make a living. What I thought would be a dull, unremarkable night ended up leaving a deep impression. 

*What a fabulous, rich and varied landscape*



Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2022)

Day 874 Friday, February 04, 2022, Truckstop near La Manuelita to Santa Rosa de Cabal 28km Total KM 16312
Min meters 1108, Max Meters 1723,
Total Climb 814 Total Descent 195
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 32

On familiar roads on the other side of the globe!

For a room that was like a coffin heated by the fiery flames of Hell I slept reasonably well. A quick coffee at the store and I got packed up. As I lugged the loaded bike past the restaurant I saw a group of cyclists having coffee - who better to ask about a bike mechanic? 
Chinchina they told me - about 10km up the road and home to the world's largest coffee cup. I relaxed a bit and since the restaurant was now open decided to have some breakfast. 
Then I hit the road.

*8:30 and already getting warm*


Immediately there was a roundabout with the option of a stiff climb to Manizales. I thought about it - there would be no shortage of bike shops - but decided against. Manizales doesn't draw me back. Chinchina doesn't either but Santa Rosa de Cabal, a little further along? That does.

I'd like to say I flew through the 10km but I can't. I found it very hard going. Rolling, but always climbing more than I descended in growing heat was taking it out of me. I was feeling a little pressure too. Today being Friday I'd imagine bike shops are busier than earlier in the week. And with a Sunday off I could be looking at a few days off the road.
Also the gears started slipping, normally when under stress. It looked like the hub problem was more serious than just a regreasing.

*I kept a keen eye out but Zorro didn't appear*


At least I was on a new road to me - until I wasn't. I rejoined the road I'd taken from Manizales all those weeks ago and soon started to recognise the views. In fairness, they are pretty spectacular. Having seen them all before was a great excuse to keep the head down and the pedals going. Looking now I took less than 30 photos for the day. A "normal" day is usually well in excess of 100 and a really good day can exceed 300! (I think my record is about 600!)

Getting close to Chinchina and the steep approach I swear my legs did a little spasm in protest. "Why in hell are you making us climb this bloody road ....... again? You didn't like the place the last time!"

*Shade was a boon today! A lot of climbing and a lot of heat*


I headed for the Plaza, got a coffee from a girl who was too busy to be smiley and pleasant this time then asked some Police for a bike shop. Just around the corner! 
Before that, though, I needed a bank. The first machine rejected me, the second too. Now I was getting worried. In any case I went to the shop, a place with no doorway. It had a counter across the front and presumably some kind of workshop to the rear. That's where the mechanic came from in response to my request. Surly, sullen and willing to make no concessions to a foreign cyclist he told me he couldn't look at it until later, maybe tomorrow. I asked him if tomorrow and I needed a new hub could it all be done in a day. He shrugged in a manner to suggest that he didn't much care. I asked if there were any other stores or mechanics given that I was travelling and he gave me directions to another around the corner and stalked off before I could thank him.

With difficulty I found the other store but the mechanic wasn't in and it wasn't clear when he might return. Given Latin American attitudes to time (not a criticism - I like a more relaxed attitude) I declined the offer to leave everything. The man kindly directed me back to the first place. Now I had a decision. Head on to Santa Rosa where I remembered at least one bike store or go back to Mr. Surly. Something didn't sit right with me so I set off again, stopping to queue for another ATM. This one worked. 

*Pleasant. Very pleasant*


On the way out of town I passed another little bike store and pulled up. The guy dropped what he was doing immediately, had a listen to the hub and said "Grave". Serious.
With the sound and the slipping gears he diagnosed a problem within the hub and most likely a replacement hub would be needed. Not something he had in stock. He agreed with me that heading in to Santa Rosa should be doable and wished me a good journey. 

*Today's río has hardly any water*


More rolling, but ever upwards on a familiar road was draining. Ha! Dumbass! Here I am in COLOMBIA and *complaining* that the road is familiar!
In fairness, it's a great road with great views (not spectacular but consistently good), a decent shoulder and not too much traffic. But it was hot!! I sometimes have a slight irritation in my eyes from a combination of sweat and sunblock but today it was off the scale. My cheeks were soaking and my eyes stinging constantly. I had to regularly stop and wipe myself down with my buff. 

*Ascending to Chinchina. I actually caught up with that cyclist in front!!*


Eventually I came to the turn off to Santa Rosa and began the long approach to the Plaza. Spying a bike shop I pulled in waiting ages to cross the road. The man ignored my comments, put some oil on the chain and said everything was fine! I thought not.

*What was denied me in Chinchina on my first visit - the world's largest coffee cup! Sometimes it's better not to achieve our dreams!*


I continued on, past the familiar and lovely Plaza and spied the shop. With a workshop at the back, downstairs, a guy came out to inspect. Of course, now the hub was quieter (the noise came and went). Then the actual mechanic came out for a look. He was busy getting bikes ready for a race but said he'd have a look in a while. Good enough for me. I set off to find some accommodation close by, showered and returned with a lighter Roccado.

_*The pretty and pleasant Plaza in Chinchina*_
*



*​Later, when I returned to the shop I had good news and not so good news. The good news was that the hub was structurally sound. It was being serviced by an apprentice as we spoke. The not so good news was that the spokes used on the wheel were too long and these were bending around the hub, applying forces where they shouldn't. Now, I'm not a wheel expert (it was progress for me to realise that a "wheel" isn't actually one component but a combination of hub, rim and spokes) but I had seen this when I got the wheel built but was assured that all was fine. 
He said that I could travel on but that I should keep a close eye. I asked if he had spokes of the correct length to be told that no, he didn't but he could look in the morning. If he could get them he could get the wheel rebuilt. 

We bumped fists and agreed to chat again in the morning.

_*More animals to contend with*_
*



*​At the hotel I met another traveller (strangely unwilling to give his name). An English chap but lived in the US for years, apparently wealthy and travelling by motorbike. We had a coffee together and I listened to his story.
Now, I do love a good travelling story but this chap managed to take the "mono" from monotonous and the "logue" from travelogue and combine them in a way that would have most people asking "why bother?"
Extremely privileged to have the two biggest deficiencies of the long distance traveller covered - money and time - he exhibited not a bit of joy or satisfaction. It was a list of places visited delivered in a monotone. He kept saying that he could never travel on a bike despite meeting many cyclists in strange places. If I thought about travelling as he apparently did I wouldn't have the motivation to turn a pedal either.

_*Rolling..... But ever upwards*_
*



*​My coffee man was still in his corner in the Plaza, still with a sociable crowd hanging around. It's amazing how the memories come flooding back on seeing the familiar and pretty Plaza. I think it was November when I was here last - not that long ago really - but there's been a hell of a lot of coffee in Plazas since! 

My relaxation in the Plaza was cut short by a humungous rainstorm that had me running for the hotel. I'm back in the mountains! 



Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2022)

Days 875-77 Saturday - Monday, February 05-7, 2022, Santa Rosa de Cabal

A new rim. Again.

The next morning Miguel was already busy with new spokes. Everything should be ready in the afternoon.

But they weren't.

The rim is really not great and the spokes weren't working well. The problem was that on *some* of the spokes the length was off meaning that the spoke nipple couldn't get a good grip. It was only some of the nipples suggesting that the rim was uneven. More time would be needed to do it properly and probably different spokes. The problem that I would have would be a lack of horizontal strength in the wheel - a problem with my load. 
Miguel offered to work on Sunday - he had stock to sort out anyway - something I was reluctant to agree to. Sunday is his day off. He insisted.

*I just love these artistic tributes to local people. Not a speck of graffiti or any other sign of disrespect.*


Monday morning was more bad news. With clear frustration he showed me three spokes that just wouldn't sit right, that couldn't be tightened correctly and that compromised the strength of the whole wheel. The problem was very clearly the rim and the solution involved getting spokes cut and rethreaded to the exact length. 
At this stage I re-examined the whole picture. If the rim was the problem did he have another rim?
He did! For a downhill MTB it would be strong. But it was for disc brakes.
He made a few calls and a local shop had a second hand wheelset. We went to look. Axiom rims, used on a disc brake bike so the braking surface was untouched. They looked good. Hell, they felt good! There was a heft to them lacking in my own and a solidity I hadn't felt in a while. 
Miguel told me that he had a rim on a bike at home that I could use too. I asked him which was the better rim - his or the man's and he confirmed that the Axiom were much better.
The man wanted to sell them as a set - fair enough - but also with hubs, tyres, tubes and discs not so fair enough.
Miguel negotiated to just the wheelset, including hubs and I paid. 
My newly serviced XT hub was superior to the hub on the wheelset so Miguel advised swapping them out. 

*I'm not sure what's going on here but the colours are enough to charm me*



This is the thing about a long trip like this - components wear out. While I'd happily throw on a Chinese cassette or tyre until I could get a better version a rim is a different kettle of fish. Indeed, it was one reason for my trailer - I'd always have an extra rim. 
With each day and a patient demonstration and explanation (en Español!) my faith in the rim was falling quickly. I know me and I wouldn't be able to enjoy myself if I was constantly thinking of my rear wheel. I'd also have to forego a lot of the smaller roads that I've come to love so much in favour of bigger, smoother ones. In fact, I already have. 

*These mountain towns are steep!*


A long weekend was not what I had in mind when I arrived but I'll be leaving with a serviced hub*, a rim as strong as the one I left NL on and a wheel built by a guy who has been nothing but generous and understanding. 

_*This is a normal house. Not a museum or a shop or a tourist information office. A home.*_
*



*​* As an example of my inexperience I had rejected the notion of getting the hub serviced when I got the wheel built initially. I figured I only needed it for a few more weeks in Colombia and that I'd get a whole new wheel when back in Europe. I did ask about a new hub now too but the Covid supply problems exist here too - Miguel has nothing as good as my own.

*And beside it ..... This! Look at the bottom for an idea of the angle of the street*



The rest of my time in Santa Rosa was a bit of a washout. It can be dangerous coming back to favourite places. 
A lot of rain didn't help but my time in the plaza was blighted by people, sometimes aggressively, looking for money. 

*I did find the town sign, something I hadn't noticed was missing the last time!*​

I found another Mexican restaurant, smaller and busier than my last visit but equally as disappointing. I really should stop disappointing myself!

*The seats in the Park/Plaza are all sponsored.*


I had another conversation with the English chap before he left. I am sometimes amused, sometimes a little shocked at how little our nearest neighbour knows about us. 

*I asked the old guy in the window if I could take a picture. Again, a home.*


With semi decent internet I could listen to the Ireland Wales rugby match, then later watch the whole game on YouTube. I used to be critical when I read of bike tourists doing the same but I've found that, especially solo, a totally immersive experience in foreign parts can be tough. A little taste of the familiar can be very pleasant. When that taste is also a pretty comprehensive victory it's even better!

One night I ate in a Disney themed place and I chose to eat off WonderWoman 








*Santa Rosa de Cabal. This time I couldn't sit in the park without being hassled for money. Definitely a lovely town but some of the shine was lost this time around*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2022)

Day 878 Tuesday, February 08, 2022, Santa Rosa de Cabal to Quimbaya 54km Total KM 16366
Min meters 1185, Max Meters 1789,
Total Climb 939 Total Descent 1329
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 24

The rain in Colombia falls mainly on my head!

It has been a while since I had to consider rain but consider it I did this morning! Thundering down it was at 6am! Hardly surprising, really, since there had been a lot of rain over the weekend and not too significant since I'd promised the guys in the bike shop to stop by at 9am for a photo.

*Leaving Santa Rosa behind and heading into rain and trees hidden by mist and warnings of falling rocks!*​




In the end it was nearly 10am when the rain had lightened off enough to leave. Obligations done, one last tinto and I descended out of Santa Rosa.
I had a few options open to me but the likeliest was Cartago. I'd really enjoyed the Plaza there but felt cheated by the church - although there was an old one I wouldn't mind seeing again.
Another option was Salento again. I'd really enjoyed my time there and the back road to Armenia had been magnificent. I wouldn't mind doing that one again. There's also a backroad to Ibagué that would be magnificent if a little crazy to try. That would give me the chance to do more of the Tatacoa desert and ultimately the Trampoline again!
Yep! That's the way my head is! I have no idea where I'm going other than south.

*This is a quiet road around Pereria!*


Anyways, first step was to bypass Pereria (again). Still drizzling I had my rainjacket on for a long descent with the ocasional steep climb to keep me honest. I'd travelled this road before and didn't want to try another. Tim Tower's warning about traffic in Pereria still ringing in my ears.

I was both enjoying it and not enjoying it. I was amused at myself for remembering so much but I wasn't enjoying the conditions or the traffic.

_*Off the beaten track and into rural Colombia. It really is special*_
*



*​There's a big roundabout where I'd turn off to Salento but I stayed heading for Cartago but pulled in to the first café to think.
Looking again at Osmand I noticed I had another option on a small road that would bring me (by a different road) to Alcalá and on to Quimbaya. There was something about Quimbaya that tickled my memories so I searched it on my notes to see that I'd visited it early in the day, had been charmed and nearly stayed. Sold!
A better option than Cartago and a good position to hit some new small places in the mountains.

*This chap wanted some pineapple!*


It took a while to cross the road with all the traffic but I managed, hit the roundabout had a few kms of heavy traffic then turned off into the countryside. My expected bliss didn't arrive since the road was full of heavy traffic and I started to wonder at the wisdom of this little figary but after a few minutes the traffic disappeared.

Now, this wasn't a spectacular road by any stretch and while I climbed a lot I also descended a lot so views weren't anything to write home about. But I was off the main road and everything was quiet. The rain had stopped too!

*This is someone's home!*


The climbing had me sweating, swearing and huffing but the crazy descents had me whooping like a kid on a rollercoaster. Crazy bends, crazy descents and crazy speeds balanced out by slow, ponderous climbs.

*I am regularly amazed at just how much variety can fit onto the small screen of ny phone!*


I stopped for a cup of fresh pineapple in the small roadside settlement of Morelia and had dogs barking at me from all corners. I stopped later to buy a couple of bananas and had the same - two dogs going nuts but no danger at all. I am really pleased with my interactions with dogs. They're not all friendly but I'm having fun converting the yappers and the barkers to amigos.

*Rural Colombia. On a bike it's bloody hard work ............ But worth it all*


I recognised Alcalá before I got to it and stopped for a quick snack. No coffee this time then mounted up again for the last few kms up and down to Quimbaya.

*I used to think Ireland was the greenest!*








_*Going up was slow and hard work. Going down veered between terrifying and fabulous fun! On one short, steep section I was shocked to see my speed roll past 50kmh!*_
*









Cycling *in* nature. It may not look particularly spectacular but it feels (and sounds) wonderful*



​Home!

Watching the news on tv later I was shocked to see a landslide in Dosquebradas, a suburb of Pereria. 15 people dead, at least two missing.
https://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-60152012


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Feb 2022)

Day 878 Tuesday, February 08, 2022, Santa Rosa de Cabal to Quimbaya 54km Total KM 16366
Min meters 1185, Max Meters 1789,
Total Climb 939 Total Descent 1329
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 24

The towns along the way


_*Alcalá now has a town sign!*_







_*I do like the street art*_







_*Respect the cyclist they might be your child*_








_*Approaching Quimbaya*_







_*Quimbaya*_







_*Guess! Again I was hassled for money as soon as I sat down with my coffee. I had loved the posters of locals and did again but ....... There was something lacking in revisiting the place.*_








*A pleasant tree.



*
​


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 879 Wednesday, February 09, 2022, Quimbaya to Truckstop* 47km Total KM 16413
Min meters 1184, Max Meters 1368,
Total Climb 633 Total Descent 585
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

* Google: 4.4857331, -75.7048150

I shoulda stopped!

I'm just not sleeping terribly well these days. It takes a long time to fall asleep and I awake not terribly refreshed. Last night the promised internet didn't work so with no distractions I should have been asleep early. Nope!

It was a dry morning though and I got my stuff downstairs and out onto the Plaza. Feeling a bit meh I thought I'd skip my morning tinto and head for Montenegro about 10km up and down the road. From there I'd cut cross country through the southern part of Armenia, take a main road and then hop off that into some mountains - first town Barcelona!

*Looking down on Montenegro*



The road, small like yesterday, was surprisingly busy. Traffic tended to bunch behind a truck unable to overtake on the twisty turny route. It was fine, but far from idyllic cycling and not quite what I had in mind when I thought I'd take the smaller road. Had I gone to Cartago yesterday I'd be on a familiar road today.

*Roads can be a bit messy but there is always colour and beauty if I keep my eyes open. Fabulous trees would be a feature of my day*


Montenegro was interesting from the get go - a steep approach and then a tunnel to take passing traffic under the town.
I walked up the main artery to the Plaza - I couldn't see a steeple but I could see a bunch of trees!
It was a very nice Plaza, a bit rough'n'ready but busy with lots of people. A coffee and I perched myself on a wall to soak.
My soaking, though, was regularly interrupted not by requests for money but demands for money. Looking around I could see that most of the people in the Plaza seemed poorer than in other towns, many older just passing the time. The persistence came from a younger generation, all male. It's not often that I feel uncomfortable in small town Colombia but that was my response.

*Five Fabulous Trees!*


I grabbed some breakfast, hit a bank (if all goes according to plan there may be no banks for a while) and headed out of town - on another new route!

Struggling up the hill to Montenegro the road split for the tunnel with "Armenia" in big, intimidating letters. That would be my road after the town. While I wouldn't be going into Armenia centre, Osmand was directing me through some substantial suburbs. Seeing that, I'd plotted a longer alternative to keep me on the main road. Suburbs can be tricky because I've no idea how safe or otherwise they are. I'd make a decision when I had to.
La Tebaida was the alternative road and that looked a whole lot quieter. Over breakfast, out with Osmand and a quick look. It looked a much better option and would miss Armenia completely. Sold!

*When there were views they were ...... meh. Lots of roadshots today because they were not anything close to meh!



*​While there was still traffic the road was bigger (and better) and the views improved. After about 4km I passed the Coffee theme park but pressed on - the road, on my side at least was now empty of traffic. A theme park on my own won't be much fun.

On a good road more gentle than earlier the cycling was very pleasant. Some spectacular trees lined the road (photos ruined by the sun hidden behind clouds).

*Immersed! I'm immersed in the countryside!*


Another steep climb up to La Tebaida and I headed straight for the pleasant Plaza. A tad quiter than earlier I was charmed by statues (and information boards) of "local" animals - a horse, a squirrel, an armadillo, a dog ...... and to remind me where I am an iguana!
An odd chap was wandering around shouting at nothing and no-one in particular. That's probably the most anti-social behaviour I've seen in a long, long time.
I could easily have stayed. It was lunchtime, the sun was out now and the temperature had risen and the next leg has a bit of climbing. Such a lazy bike tourist!

*There's a small río down there. The variety, the quantity and the vibrancy of life around a río has to be witnessed to be believed.*


I set off onto a busy main road but a decent shoulder kept me comfy. Some fabulous trees lined the road so while traffic was heavy and views limited I still had something to occupy me. Turning off the main road I was about to start a sweeping descent on a link road when the ominous sky started spitting big blobs of water at me. I'd just passed a restaurant at a filling station so jammed on the brakes and carefully reversed up.
I passed an hour as torrential rain fell then another 30 minutes as heavy rain fell. When it finally lightened, but hadn't stopped, I wrapped up and set off again. I'd a little over 10km to go - how hard could it be?

Ha! Dumbass!

*This road wasn't on my route at all. I spied this canopy of trees and decided to turn off. It was a few kms long! Fabulous and absolutely filled with birdsong. A unique experience in a place that offers so many special experiences.*




​I was already committed to the descent when the rain picked up again. Inside of 90 seconds it was like I had been swimming. Joining the other road I was horrified to see that it was smaller, narrower and had no shoulder at all. Seeing a few shacks along the roadside I pulled in for a bit of shelter and to don my rain trousers.

*Back on the main road. Lots of traffic but again the countryside more than compensated*


I passed another hour standing under the roof of an empty shack watching the traffic hurtle pass. Trucks made my heart sink - each one filling the road leaving no room for a loaded bike. To the edge of the road was a steep gulley filled with rushing water - there was a hefty climb ahead of me too. All of a sudden 10km seemed very far away!

*Just because I'm on the main road doesn't mean that I lose my "immersion" in Nature*


The rain did lighten, but not by much and thankfully the traffic did lighten too. With fading light I decided to go for it. I was just about to set off when there was a terrible screeching noise and a motorbike came flying around the bend ahead of me on its side, the rider hanging on for dear life.
Thankfully he was sliding to his side of the road so there was little danger from oncoming traffic. He seemed OK and waved away the attentions of the first car. At that point I decided to push up the hill utilising the gulley.
It really wasn't pleasant but it was safe. At times there was no gulley just soaked grass and earth and I took the road if empty.

*A fabulous tree casting shadow onto my side of the road. A little later I'd take the turn off, lose the shoulder and those grey clouds would have at me. For now though, it was pretty pleasant cycling.*



​Arriving at the top I started to pedal again and came to a roundabout. There was also a huge factory, a filling station and a small hostal.
I enquired about a room - basic, not cheap but the guy was friendly and flexible. Best of all I could get my bike up into the room.
I got all my gear up and a cold shower rarely felt so good.

No wifi meant few distractions and no restaurant meant a basic supper supplemented with junk food. But I was dry and safe. Tomorrow's another day!

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 879 Wednesday, February 09, 2022, Quimbaya to Truckstop* 47km Total KM 16413
Min meters 1184, Max Meters 1368,
Total Climb 633 Total Descent 585
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 26

* Google: 4.4857331, -75.7048150

I shoulda stopped!

The Town along the way

_*Montenegro. Sometimes words fail me. *_
*








Not the prettiest building or the greatest artwork but in a small town? I love the attitude!*








_*Guess! The building behind is quite dilapidated and an indication, perhaps, of the state of the town. I can't but help think that the tunnel taking traffic under the town has a rôle in the decline*_
*







The very vibrant Plaza*







*The Plaza and the church*










_*A very, very impressive stained glass cross in the church. My photo doesn't do it justice at all but I was agog.*_
*









A rocket ship church in La Tebaida*











*Another very green Plaza*
















*The wonderful animal statues in the Plaza. They won't win awards for style or quality but I love how the simple things are celebrated in these parts. Imagine the council meeting ... "I have a great idea! Let's put statues of dogs and horses in the Plaza!". (I'm grateful to note that there were no cat statues!)*





Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 880 Saturday, February 10, 2022, Truckstop to Cordoba 20km Total KM 16433
Min meters 1157, Max Meters 1575,
Total Climb 464 Total Descent 258
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

The Big, Big, Sit-On-My-Ass Trip

Rain here isn't like rain in Europe. It's not that I'm such a wuss (only a little one) but in very heavy rain, fading light and a narrow, hilly road a lot of factors come into the "do I stay or do I go" equation.
Brilliantly lit trucks distort the picture, especially in relation to traffic with no lights. The lack of consistency in the quality of lights makes judging distance very tricky. The sheer amount of water adds to the noise and deflects lights in a multitude of directions. Also, it's not unusual to be soaked by a truck or fast moving car as it passes throwing water up into the air. Cycling on the edge of the road and getting hit by a wall of water is neither pleasant nor safe. The motorbike flying along the road on its side was a reminder that no matter what I do there are a whole lot of other people on the road. Judge me all you like ..... I was perfectly happy with my decision

_*Looking much better in the sunshine!*_
*



*​Despite the traffic noise and the factory noise I slept quite well and a little late. A couple of coffees downstairs and I got loaded up just as the sun made an appearance through heavy, gloomy cloud. The sky did look tricky though! 

*A gap in the traffic. The road is quite narrow and that gulley on the edge would have been full last night.*



Setting off I was glad I hadn't tried the road last night. There was little space for a loaded bike (although there were lots of cyclists out) and in rain and impending darkness it would have been unpleasant. 

_*Colombia always throws some colour into the mix*_
*



*​
Barcelona did not disappoint! A delightful little town with an open Plaza and some lovely colourful plants and trees. It's just off the main road but is quiet for all that. I'm noticing a different reaction in myself when I arrive somewhere new as opposed to revisiting a place. There's a sprinkling of excitement as I look for the things that make the place special or unique. I appear to be quite good at that as I rarely see something new on the second visit. 

*Sometimes the depth of green has to be seen to be believed!*


I could have stayed easily enough as I sipped an excellent coffee on the Plaza. Unfortunately there's a dearth of cheap accommodation and a few more villages not too far away as the crow flies ( but higher up!).

*Rolling tbrough such an orderly countryside*


I also text chatted with Remi, the French bikepacker. He's getting ready to do the Trampoline tomorrow. I'm jealous! And also a little nervous - it's my recommendation. He also did the loop outside of Pasto that I had recommended and loved it. He's given me a couple of tips too for further down the road. I sent him a picture from my "adventure on the mountain" and think I've earned bikepacking legendary status.

*Today's río has a split personality!*


After Barcelona it was back on the main road for a pleasant few downhill kms then a turn off onto a small road and immediate climbing.

*Bamboo trees explode gently out of the ground*


One of the great lessons from bike touring is that nothing stays the same. Bad times, tough days will eventually give way to better ones. Well, it's difficult to imagine that yesterday evening and this afternoon were only a day apart in the same part of the country. Such is the wonder of Colombia! Diversity! Of everything! 

*Taking a breather. I'm in no rush to leave this wonderful part of the world*









*Today's río washes out roads!*









*There was a simply wonderful stretch of trees that had me simultaneously struck dumb yet filled with excitement. The beauty of trees is something that this trip, but especially, Colombia has taught me.*





​
To be continued.........


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 880 Thursday, February 10, 2022, Truckstop to Cordoba 20km Total KM 16433
Min meters 1157, Max Meters 1575,
Total Climb 464 Total Descent 258
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

The Big, Big, Sit-On-My-Ass Trip Part Two

A quiet road, a surging río that didn't sing so much as bellow and trees that had me stopping every 100 meters or so. Simply bliss! Loon face was back and set in position!

*Brace yourselves for lots of trees!*



​I may have to retitle this whole story - less of The Big, Big Trip and more of the Sitting on my Ass Trip because I did a lot of stopping and savouring. I'm spoilt for destinations today and have zero rush on me. The sky is looking ominous again and I know if it rains (read downpour) I'll be miserable but ........ but ........... but I haven't come all this way to rush.

*They look great (to me anyways) but the atmosphere they cast, the spirit that floats over the road was pretty special. When I first came across them I doddered about for about half an hour. 100 meters up the road I stopped again. And again. And again.



*​The río is defiant, surging through the country often beside the road. It's washed out parts of the road in places so it's to be respected but for someone who loves water? I couldn't be happier. It's making art as it breaks around boulders big and small, constantly creating then changing pictures in the bubbles, foam and currents. Dozens of baby waterfalls seem like steps to paradise. It's alive and on a mission. On a laid back road where the noise consists of birds singing, chattering and squeaking and the odd motorbike or pick-up it's the most driven thing around.
The trees are numerous and varied, standing proudly. Where the río is defiant and rushing they are humble and calm. Calming too. The río's full of water not knowing where it's going, enthusiastic if ignorant whereas the green beauties have seen it all before. It seems like every kind of my favourite tree is represented and they look out for me stretching across the road offering shade from the sun before it disappears behind thick cloud. I can't stop myself stopping to soak it all up.

_*Plants grow on the trees - life on top of life*_
*



*​Of course it rained. And Murphy's Law applied - it started to rain as I was approaching Cordoba on a piece of road that the engineers had kindly decided would be the steepest! I struggled up, made it to the Plaza and wet, took shelter at a little café. There are worse places to be in the rain!

*To the side just a crazy amount of different types of trees. They present such a wild and powerful contrast to the neat and ordered lines of fruit trees*



​Now I had a bit of a dilemma. There seemed to be only one accommodation option, a place variously described as a hotel or restaurant outside of town. My friendly coffee man (who had no problem telling me that people who ride their bikes up here are "loco") confirmed that it was the only place in town. Pijao, the next village isn't too far away (with accommodation) but another 500 meters of climbing. I could probably do it before dark but the question is do I want to? A big part of my earlier enjoyment was not being in a rush. Besides, if the rain continued it wouldn't be a lot of fun. I decided to check the local place out.

*I couldn't help but think that if the Game of Thrones people saw this road it would be known all over the world. There's a definite sense of spirit and soul along here*



​It's outside the small village and up and down some steep roads but what a place!!
I set my tent up under a roof and will have the whole space to myself! If ever there was a reason for lugging my tent around the chance to sleep in places like this is it!

*Now that's a tree that has some stories to tell*



​The hotel, where I'm camping is on one hill and the restaurant/cafe is on another with a beautiful walk (tough bike push) between them.

Feck me but I'm a lucky bike tourist!

_*Bamboo. Up close the trunks can seem like some giant has thrown a load of sticks to chaotically stick up out of the ground but a wider view with the soft and gentle foliage creates real magic.*_
*









No picture can do this wonderful, loud, powerful río justice. A half an hour on a bridge, another sitting on the bank. Lots of shorter stops. Picking these roads I have no idea what I'm in for but I'm making sure I'm enjoying every single moment*









*A little tributary. The life around running water is amazing*










*On another day this would be a pretty good scene. Today? It'll do *



​To be continued......

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 880 Thursday, February 10, 2022, Truckstop to Cordoba 20km Total KM 16433
Min meters 1157, Max Meters 1575,
Total Climb 464 Total Descent 258
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

The Big, Big, Sit-On-My-Ass Trip

The Towns along the way

_*A captivating little house in Barcelona*_
_*








The whole Plaza. In a way I was very glad that I didn't arrive last night in the dark and pishing rain. Much better to let the town dazzle me in the sun








Some wonderful trees in the Plaza












I'm loving the colours!








Not a lot of streetart but what they had was pretty good! 








The church in Cordoba taken in the rain*_







_*Not a bad pitch!






Morning view*_









_*Feeling jungley*_​​*



*
​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 881 Friday, February 11, 2022, Cordoba to Pijao 22km Total KM 16455
Min meters 1171, Max Meters 1819,
Total Climb 706 Total Descent 569
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 27

Take the backroad? No way, José!

I sleep great in my tent! The only problem was that everything was so tranquil that I sat down and savoured the night before I ever made it to bed. My only company was a goat in a field next door who butted vocally into my tranquility on a regular basis. And something big that scurried across the metal roof. Nights like these are when I can feel most alone. They're to be shared.

*After leaving my camping spot I was facing into this*



​I awoke with the sun but was blissfully cosy so slow to actually get up and out into the cool morning. Pijao was probably going to be my destination today and it wasn't far away although with a lot of climbing. I was actually on the road to there so going back to town would be out of my way. This gave me cause to hum and haw about what to do. Eat breakfast here and continue or back to town to eat and then take the road? I decided to eat here and when I opened my pannier to get breakfast - tortillas and peanut butter - I was horrified to have no tortillas! I'd eaten them the other night in the truckstop!! I had a few cereal bars and figured they'd do just as well with some coffee. In the end coffee was enough and I decided to snack on the way.

*Haven't had to ford a river in a while! The next ascent was where I revised my plans. At least 500 meters of climbing like this, steeper than now, a descent and minimal food. No thanks! Maybe I'm becoming sensible!*


There's a ferocious descent out of the hotel/camping so I walked, slipping and sliding down. The road was interesting, mud and rocks and the typical Colombian "two strips of corrugated concrete" for the steep bits. I slid down and pushed up my feet struggling for grip. I had 500 meters of climbing of this and I stopped to think. I had about 10km to go but most of those kms would be like this. Gizmo showed me the elevation profile got even steeper than this. I've learned my lesson. I turned around and headed for town and a proper breakfast.

*Leaving Cordoba in sunshine...... And going downhill. Heat and light mixing with the foliage of the trees is sensual as well as visual*


Not an ounce of regret was felt. The town looked great in the morning sun and well fed I set off back on the road I'd come in on yesterday. That wasn't a problem - I'd loved that road and whizzing down was even better!

_*I am always amazed at the variety of life around a río, no matter how small. As well as being a textbook image of Nature the soundtrack is Life.*_
*







My río from yesterday ....... Again. Not a complaint! This is a special rīo.*








*Best of all I got to go past and under my "road of trees" ...... Again!*









*No words*








*Nope! Still no words!*








*Call the folks in the white coats ....... I can feel something on this road*








*And one more ...... Just because I can!*



​
To be continued........


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 881 Friday, February 11, 2022, Cordoba to Pijao 22km Total KM 16455
Min meters 1171, Max Meters 1819,
Total Climb 706 Total Descent 569
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 27

Take the backroad? No way, José! Part Two

I took my turn for Pijao and the climbing started immediately. I'd have about 600 meters to climb - but it would be on a road as opposed to a track. Not a great road by any stretch but quiet for most of the time. And at times absolutely stunning!

*New road, new trees, same old "Wow"*


I don't know what's going on but I'm lacking puff when it comes to the climbs these days so I'm taking it easy. A road like this doesn't give a lot off opportunities for stopping and getting off the bike so I'll take them where I find them. One today was on a bamboo bench under a bamboo shelter - a bit of shade from the sun is no bad thing
As I was sitting, relaxing and reading, a man working the field behind me came closer and closer.
I've lapsed into not recounting all the conversations I have - they're becoming just a normal part of my day. This farmer was particularly friendly, delighted to meet an Irishman - he already knows one Irishman - and especially happy to hear how much I'm enjoying his country. I could have stayed chatting - the offer of a drink was made - but after resting up I was feeling antsy for the road.
I got my blessing and set off under the protection of God.

_*Wild and tame intermingling*_
*



*​Another thing I omit to mention regularly are the birds and the bugs. Either I'm getting better at bird watching or there are a lot more birds but I'm seeing more and more of them. Fabulous, multicoloured and of all sizes. The vultures are the only ones that I despise. With a passion. The rest are a delightful bonus to spot. Not a hope in Hell of getting a photo though. I'm more than happy to be serenaded as I pass through their territory and excited when I catch a glimpse.
The bugs are just phenomenal. There are just so many - in terms of variety and quantity. It's normal for strange bees, wasps and other buzzers to investigate me. All kinds of strange flies land on me. Butterflies of incredible colour and variety are a regular accompaniment, especially on these quiet roads. Ants are still regularly forming long columns and bustling busily. After eating my tent I'm a little more sceptical of them now. Stopping as I do it's not unusual to pick up a bug hitchhiker. I'll prattle on about trees and mountains but there is so much more to Colombia. Most surprising to me as a bugaphobe is how comfortable I am when they get close and even land on me.

*Banana trees! Along a high road with a drop they really create an atmosphere*


Progress was slow but steady in its way. I had my eye on a mirador/café around where the road split as a chance for a rest. When I got there it was up an incredibly steep hill (I'll have to do it tomorrow) so I passed by. Spying another Bamboo shelter I pulled in and made my own lunch of fresh bread (bought this morning) and peanut butter. Then on up again.

*A lot more order.......*


The landscape is fascinating to me. At times it's wild but at other times it's incredibly ordered with lines and lines of crops. The edges, though, are always a bit wild and there's fabulous displays of trees in a variety of shades of green. All the work is done by hand so everything is so tranquil and peaceful. Only walking or cycling are the ways to properly appreciate the scene and the sounds. You'll never hear the sound of a machete in a car!

*A lot more wild...... The bamboo trees explode silently in slow motion from along a creek. Roads like this are special*


The peak when it came was a relief and I quickly had a reassessment of just how bad the surface was - going up at 6 or 7 kmh is different to flying down seven or eight times as fast!

*I am never far from nature*


About half way down the rain started to fall just like yesterday! Head down I pushed on but just had to stop at the edge of town. This place was making an effort. I sailed down to the Plaza and took shelter in a bakery then took a wander around when the rain stopped. I'd passed a hostel on my way in that looked like the cheapest place in town and headed back to it.

*I *know* I'm on a road but when I come across crazy corners like this I feel like an explorer coming across a wonder of nature for the first time. There's a combination of calmness inspired by the beauty and excitement from the sheer wonder of it all. Or maybe I'm climbing too much!*


Checked in, a hot shower (outside!) a chatty lady boss to deal with and I set off to explore
Home was a colourful place!

*Remember .... This was my second choice road!*







*I knew nothing about these roads other than that I hadn't come this way before. I liked the idea of the names of the towns. Damn but I must be the luckiest bike tourist*







*One little bend ...... So much detail*



​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 881 Friday, February 11, 2022, Pijao

_*Arriving into Pijao. I nearly missed the town name on the roadside*_
_*




*_​



_*The kind of brutal church and a little río running through the town*_​





_*

*_
_*The Municipal building, honouring the role of the Willy Jeep and another angle of the río




*_​




_*Like a lot of towns this one is steep too!




*_​



_*It's a colourful town - even in the rain




*_​




_*Colourful houses in a colourful town




*_​



_*This is the low grade street art




*_​


_*This is the high grade street art




*_​

_*
This is special




*_​


*But this? I'm amazed no-one tried to paint me because I was stood, rooted, for ages trying to take it in





*​

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022, Pijao to Caicedonia 27km Total KM 16482
Min meters 1149, Max Meters 1824,
Total Climb 481, Total Descent 973
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 30

Am I the laziest bike tourist ever or am I doing this right?

There was only one other guest in the hostel last night, an American chap I'd spotted in town earlier. I don't recall seeing someone as pale. We chatted over breakfast - en español so as not to alienate the boss lady - and he expressed an interest in seeing the bike. Not for the first time someone expressed an interest in doing something similar but ........
There's always a but. In his case it was the amount of preparation, the learning. I reigned in my zealot, evangelical bike tourist and explained that if I had thought of the Internet before embarking on my first couple of tours I'd probably still be sitting at home - a shiny new bike sitting in a corner. It's riding a bike - it's really not that complicated.

*A climb isn't too bad when the road is as interesting as this!*


Breakfast was included, a surprise, so I was able to head straight out of town - although I was lacking caffeine as chocolate was served instead of coffee. 
A 200 meter climb and then generally downwards towards Buenavista then further on down then up to Caicedonia. If I felt like it I could continue on to Sevilla although that was all uphill. I have to say I'm loving all the names! Barcelona, Cordoba, Sevilla! 

_*Up and up put the views improve*_
*



*​Everything was fine until I came to the café that I skipped yesterday because it was up so high. I had no choice but to go up today and it was hell! Ridiculously steep! Looking at Osmand this, and some of the next sections hit the high twenties in terms of gradient! I had a lovely coffee admiring the view and nearly collapsed when I went to pay! 5000 pesos! That's more than €1! To put it in perspective, a coffee in Santa Rosa de Cabal cost 700 pesos! 

*A bit wild, a bit tamed. What a place to live! It sure isn't an easy life though*


The "descent" continued upwards after my coffee break and I pushed up the steep bits from necessity and the less steep bits because the countryside was just so damn perfect! 

*Even dead trees can be interesting!*




There was a bit of a hurry on me when I'd set off after my coffee - Ireland were playing France in the rugby, our talismanic outhalf was being replaced by a guy from my home town and I hoped to use some WiFi in Buenavista to keep up to date with the score - but the country just squashed that urge.

*The trees in Colombia are feckin' amazing!*​





My miles per day are crap for a "bike tourist" but my smiles per mile are sky high! 

*It would be more fun going down but hey, it's not too bad going up!*


I stopped and savoured. Moved 50 meters and repeated the process. I'm coming to the end of coffee country and I'm feeling it. I can't explain it, it kicks my ass on a regular basis but there is something about this area that doesn't just speak to me, it sings to me. 
I have spent hours at various times along the Rhine imagining Lorelei seducing boatmen with her voice. In Colombia Lorelei is real and she is the coffee country. 
Water has always been the balm for me. A good river, a big lake, the ocean. Coffee country may just be taking its place. 

*What fabulous country! Rugby? What rugby?*








_*The view that inspired a 5k coffee!*_
*









Ah, I'm not even going to try.......*







*When people talk about "Colombia" and "high" they're not always talking about this*



​
To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022, Pijao to Caicedonia 27km Total KM 16482
Min meters 1149, Max Meters 1824,
Total Climb 481, Total Descent 973
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 30

Am I the laziest bike tourist ever or am I doing this right? Part Two

*That's my road way down there! I love looking down on where I've come from. Less so looking up at where I have to go!*


When I did arrive into Buenavista the first thing that hit me was colour! So much colour. All these towns are colourful but Buenavista stands out. I grabbed some food and a tinto from a stall, perched myself down, logged onto the town WiFi to get the half time analysis on the radio.

*One motorcyclist stopped to see what I was looking at. Perplexed when I replied "the view" he went off again, muttering, I'm sure, about dumb gringos!*



A few years ago if I'd read of a bike tourist doing such a thing I 'd have been disappointed. What's the point of going abroad to listen to Irish radio? Well, we live and learn.

_*What a great feckin' road!*_
*



*​I'm a great believer in Murphy's law and so it came to pass. It seemed like everyone wanted to talk to me! Not wanting to be that guy I turned down the radio for the chat then zoomed back in when it was over. Four separate conversations during the second half!

_*I didn't mind pushing up here - it gave me more time to soak it all up*_
*



*​We lost but (Joey didn't embarass himself) so I climbed aboard and headed off again. The landscape is changing - a large, flat plain ahead of me. The descent was fast, steep and very, very twisty! Crazy hairpins, gradients into the twenties and a tricky surface. I'm guessing not too many loaded bike tourists go this way - hence all the interest in Buenavista.

_*Just "WOW!" And one of those silver/white trees for good measure*_
*



*​Near the bottom I rejoined the road I'd turned off after Barcelona and was happy to see that it was quieter. Not as exciting as the smaller road it was pleasant cycling.

*NL will never be the same again!*


I arrived into Caicedonia and headed for the Plaza. A pleasant coffee was had watching the world go by and my second coffee was bought for me by an older guy who wanted a chat.

_*That's my road! Mine! All mine! (There was hardly any traffic)*_
*



*​Others around kept signalling that he was a bit odd but I was happy to chat - maybe I'm the odd one. The vibe was pleasant so I binned the half - hearted idea of continuing on to Sevilla. I took a wander with the bike found a cheap, ground floor hospedaje, had a cold shower and toddled out to explore.

*Are you bored yet? If so I recommend you stay far, far away from Colombia!*







*Buenavista! My response? Slow down even more!*







*This is Coffee country!*



​
To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022, 

Buenavista deserves its own post


Maybe because it was Saturday afternoon but the town was less hectic than others













A vista buena of Buenavista










It's a colourful place!







Now that's how to announce your house! 








And this was beside it! 










I wasn't drunk! The street was steep!










There wasn't a lot of art.......










The church and the little Plaza









Now that's how to make a corner interesting







To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 882 Saturday, February 12, 2022,

Caicedonia

Fight even if you lack nothing because there are many that lack everything








A roundabout entering town. Colombia is the first country to make proper use of roundabouts! 







A rather odd church








The Plaza. Full of life on a bright Saturday afternoon







The town seems to have had better days. 








One of the ugliest municipal buildings I've seen







This was in the hospedaje! This is what they push around the Plazas in these parts





Look at that detail!







Palm trees! What's not to like?








At night this young fella was pulling other kids around. No battery operated cars here! And the kids love it!






Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 883 Sunday, February 13, 2022, Caicedonia to Tuluá 72km Total KM 16554
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1771,
Total Climb 917, Total Descent 1120
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Adiós to Coffee Country

It was very warm last night and again I had problems falling asleep. Then I was awake at 4am for a while. When I finally awoke properly it was after 7 so I roused myself and headed out for breakfast. Walking the street I was chatted up a couple of times for money. More of a ""wham bam" situation than a gentle seduction.

*Leaving town on a rolling, quiet, small road. There were a lot of cyclists out*


The lady in the little hospedaje was very friendly and cheerful wishing me a good journey as I rolled out. Sevilla would be my target today. A stiff 600 meter climb but barely into double digit kms. Yes, that's a very short day but there's a reason for that. When I leave Sevilla I'll be leaving coffee country. I'm hanging on to it for as long as I can.

*Coffee....Bamboo..... All that's missing is a Palm tree!*


The climbing didn't start right away as I left town. Rolling would be the accurate description. In an agricultural area. There was no shortage of bikes on the road - roadies and MTBers. There were even ocasional drops of rain from a sky that was mildly threatening. The cloud cover meant I was feeling the humidity. It was after a few kms that the climbing started and I settled in for a long, slow morning. 

*Today's Río is very orange!*


My climbing wasn't helped by acquiring a passenger. After one stop I spotted a rather large spider hanging out of my front, right pannier by a string of web. I watched him climb slowly up and get lost under the rolltop. Normally, the old me would have a freak attack and panic and probably attack the pannier with a stick. The new me left him there for the ride.

*I love to look at Palm trees, an elegant reminder that I'm not in Kansas anymore, clusters of Bamboo trees are striking but banana trees? They send a jolt of electricity through my touring nerve!*


Ironically, the most prevalent plant wasn't coffee - it was banana and I cycled past many fields of banana with their big, exotic leaves and telltale blue plastic bags over the fruit. There's still a wonderful sense of the exotic from them that tingles my exploring nerve.

*Call me an old romantic but I couldn't but think that the Coffee Gods waited until today to reveal coffee flowers to me for the first time. You wouldn't believe how many photos from so many different angles I have. I spent ages (by my standards!) here.*


Then as I rose higher coffee began to mingle with the banana and my day started to shine. On a narrow road, ascending steeply there weren't too many places to stop but whenever there was a half chance to park up the bike I took it and explored on foot. 

*This photo disappoints me. In real life that cluster of bamboo shooting up from the ordered field is a triumph of nature over order. I just love the fact that it has survived, that no farmer has cleared that one patch.*


I'm leaving coffee country and my heart is breaking a little. I'll probably see more coffee but it'll be sporadic and without the whole feel of coffee country. At the risk of being melodramatic it's like a parting from a lover, this road is giving me a long slow embrace that transmits depth and meaning. It may well lack the passion and fury of earlier encounters but I am full of gratitude for what was. 
As breakups go this one is soft. Gentle. 

*Wild and order ........*


I was nearly out of México before I knew it and straight into mystical Guatemala which tempered my sense of loss on leaving México. This is different. I'm heading into familiar country, Ecuador is down the road, then some big roads, a big city and a plane. 
I can't get my head to focus on that part. I can think freely about Spain and my head is swimming with ideas (some of them are even good!) but after I leave coffee country there's a blank, white space in front of me. I am in no rush to enter that space.

_*Even a dead tree can be impressive*_
*









I am going to miss roads like this*








*And views like this......*




​
To be continued.........

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 883 Sunday, February 13, 2022, Caicedonia to Tuluá 72km Total KM 16554
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1771,
Total Climb 917, Total Descent 1120
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Adiós to Coffee Country Part Two

*Sevilla!*


I finally reached the peak and rolled down into Sevilla. A bit of a ramshackle town I was a bit blown away by the brightness of the Plaza. Sundays are the best days for being off the road and hanging out in the Plaza - it seems like all the town will pay a visit at some stage. 
A coffee found at a kiosk on one side I settled down to relax. And savour. 
But I couldn't. Something was off, something I couldn't put my finger on. My plan to stay for one last evening in a coffee town was feeling wrong. 
I had passed a likely hotel (steep stairs) and could see another couple on the Plaza, just as steep. I was feeling antsy and didn't feel like putting down roots. 

*Leaving Sevilla and looking out onto a different world*


Out with Osmand to have a look. Once I descend out of the mountains I'm back on the PanAmerican on the same road I travelled north. Andalucía is down the road, a crazy town that I liked but I'm reluctant to revisit. Tuluá is further. I stopped there but didn't stay. It had a nice river. That'll do. 

I hopped on and rolled out of my last coffee town.

_*Not too different too quickly*_
*



*​The descent continued on a road that was treacherous at times, great fun the rest. Immediately my views changed to a smooth, flat plain the only mountains way off in the distance. Most of the traffic was on the opposing side so I had reasonable freedom to pull in and stop. 

*Colours!*


When things started to level off I was in sugar cane country and I could see two of those "road trains" driving through an empty field for another load. Inside of an hour I was in a completely different world.

*Getting lower.......*


There was a nasty "bump" on the elevation profile that had me sweating and to keep the pressure on the cloudy sky had turned black and thunder was rumbling ominously. 
After the hump things levelled off and I made good progress to the PanAmerican rejoining at Uribe. 

_*Lower still and things are changing.....*_
*



*​Having had nothing since breakfast I pulled in for a chorizo, served with a potato and a bottle of coke. As I set off the rain started to fall. Those clouds were coming up behind me so I had a race! It's been a while since I raced a thunderstorm! 

*Now this is flat!*


As I flew along the good shoulder more traffic passing me in five minutes than most of the last five days I figured something out. This is why I was unsettled in Sevilla. The road up had given me the send off that I needed. Hanging around could only damage that. Here, on a flat road cycling like I haven't cycled in weeks, powering the pedals, driving myself along I was taking back control. I wasn't going to go meekly into the great white void in front of me. I was going with purpose! 

*I intrigued the locals*


Speed hasn't been a thing on the bike for quite a while but there was tremendous satisfaction in keeping Gizmo above 30 kmh. 
I stopped once, perturbed by the sky and booked a cheap place on Booking. Tuluá is a big place and I didn't fancy looking for a hotel with a thunderstorm bearing down on me. 

*Inside a couple of hours I'm in a very different country*


Turning off for Tuluá the road became familiar and stopped at traffic lights the female passenger of a car peppered me with questions about my trip. When the lights went green her driver, presumably her boyfriend, took off like the proverbial rocket! Bike envy!

_*Bye bye to the coffee country*_
*



*​I found the hotel easily, checked in and got a cheap, basic room from a very friendly lady. A cold shower and out to explore. There's a river I want to see. 

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2022)

Day 883 Sunday, February 13, 2022, Caicedonia to Tuluá 72km Total KM 16554
Min meters 979, Max Meters 1771,
Total Climb 917, Total Descent 1120
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 32 Ave Temp 27

Adiós to Coffee Country The Towns along the way

_*The church in Sevilla*_









_*
The bright, colourful and cheerful Plaza in Sevilla*_








_*
Guess!*_









_*
The same bright buildings......*_








_*
Tuluá.... Again!*_









_*
A wealthy town there are some elegant buildings in good nick*_










_*
The río where I hoped to sip a coffee and watch the water flow past. It wasn't to be*_







_*
Another church I came across on my wanderings*_









_*
A bigger church. The trees are doing it a favour - full frontal it's pretty ugly*_









*A lot of towns display big maps of their municipal areas (far, far larger than the town itself). This shot captures a common sight in the larger places - a person asleep on the path.




*​



Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2022)

Day 884 Monday, February 14, 2022, Tuluá to Restrepo 63km Total KM 16616
Min meters 968, Max Meters 1622,
Total Climb 821, Total Descent 396
Min Temp 23 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 29

Magnetic Mountains

I took a wander after a cold shower and was a tad disappointed. The Plaza was quiet with none of the usual stalls selling food and drinks. My looked forward to coffee along the river was holed under the waterline by only juice stands. Nothing wrong with a juice but coffee it ain't. I did get my coffee fix at a bakery but it was nowhere near the Plaza nor the river so there was little to see. 

Expecting rain at any moment I had my rainjacket with me. In the end, unnecessary. A huge and I mean HUGE dinner in a Chinese restaurant nearly had me comatose. The young girl serving me was both delighted and confused by my laughing reaction to the tray of food that came out. A small tip and some words of thanks as I left made me feel like I'd made her the happiest girl on the planet. 

*As big roads go this is certainly not the worst!*



There's a thing here that I can't get my head around. Sometimes people in hotels, restaurants, cafés, bakeries can be very friendly, efficient and professional and at other times I could be invisible left standing and ignored. There's no apparent common denominator. Men can be as bad as women, young as good as old. 

After dinner I had another wander but Tuluá is big, the centre is commercial and it being a Sunday evening all was closed. I went back to the hotel to update this on WiFi but as is so often the case it was non existent. Sleep time 

*After turning off at Buga, retracing my wheelturns from a couple of months ago.*


Here's the thing with dropping down to 1000 meters above sea level - it gets hot and humid. My room had a fan but no external windows. I was warm but sweated and the circulation of air from the fan chilled my skin. Inside I'm feeling like a banked coal fire but I still wake up with cold, goosebumpy skin. I was awake at 2 and again at 4:30 for that reason. 

Up at seven I popped out for a bite to eat and to figure out where to go. I had two options - one was to continue south on the highway, hot, flat, noisy, dull. The other was to turn into the mountains in the west and head for a lake that I had missed on my way north. Remi, the French bikepacker had suggested this. It was a choice between flat and mountains. Normally that's a no brainer in my world but I'm feeling the climbing these days. A good hard day of pounding the pedals and covering a big distance would feel good. 

*The Río Cauca........ Again!!




*​
Then I saw the bad news. 
A guy I knew in NL had died. While not friends we were friendly. Competitors of a type we helped each other out over the years. He was one of the very few who was friendly and showed a bit of respect to me when I arrived all those years ago. Hard as the proverbial nails he had a soft heart. The world is a less kind place today. 
That hit me hard. A day like this is when I miss Hobbes the most.

I needed time to process. A long, flat, big road would let me pump out the frustration. He retired in time for lockdown and died as the world is starting to open up again. That is so unfair.

I set off heading towards Buga, Tuluá taking a while to leave - it's big.
Cycling is great for my head. Pump the legs to work out the excess tension, roar into a passing truck to do the same. And when ready, take the negativity, scrunch it up and toss it aside. Every pedal stroke leaves it further and further behind. 

I didn't need to enter Buga so I didn't, stopping for a second breakfast and a chance to think. I still had both options open to me. Turn off here for the mountains or continue straight for the flat. I turned off for the mountains.

And, like that, my day started to change.

10km further I finally was on a road new to me. I was also facing into a 600 meter climb straight up. Spying a store in a huge area of trucks I pulled in for a cold drink and to top up my water. I was going to need it! 

*Henry and his bike. Annoyed that I took a photo while he was dealing with a trucker he demanded I take another with him. He "specialises" in leather belts and back braces for truck drivers but has all kinds of stuff for sale. And he has business cards!*


I met Henry with his bike. He pushes it everywhere, 100kg of bike and stock. He has no drivetrain so couldn't pedal even if he wanted to and his brakes don't work. Brute force gets it going and stops it. He makes his living selling to truckers pushing his bike around the few points where the trucks pull in. 
He was amazed at my load and even more amazed that I cycled up hills! When I told him we'd done the Alto de Letras his reaction was one of amazement - I didn't think he'd know it! 
I set off up the hill with a smile on my face. 

_*Climbing up into very different country. When people describe Colombia as "diverse" they are not wrong!*_
*



*​A rough two laner became a new, split four laner with a good shoulder after a km or two. There were a lot of trucks (heading to Buenaventura) struggling up just like me, the odd one trying its damndest to smother me with thick, black smoke. Even without the fumes the heat from the engines was intense adding to the temperature that stubbornly sat on 39C. 

*It's like a different country*


Breaks were frequent. And warm! I sat on one wall that had been warmed by the sun. My poor bum felt very pampered. Osmand suggested that the steepest parts were at the start and my legs weren't arguing with that. But Colombia was Colombia and was changing before my eyes. This is the thing about this country - it is so diverse. More mountains, new mountains, but a totally different view and perspective. It didn't even take that long for the views to kick in.

*A decent road for a bike especially if going downhill!*


Traffic was, in the main very respectful. Trucks pulled over to keep a full lane between me and them when they could. Lots of beeps and waves of support and one trucker heading down opposite blasted his horn several times then leaned out his window waving with one hand, his phone in the other and shouting something (which I took in a positive manner). Crazy, yes. Dangerous, yes. Inspiring, definitely.

*I whinge and moan and complain about climbing...... But I always appreciate it - or nearly always*


My target was to hit 1740 meters and I was not too far off when I pulled in at a little restaurant called "The Cyclist's Rest" where Carlos & Christina made me most welcome. A delicious coffee, two fantastic little banana breads and a teeny tiny banana (popular with cyclists - they squash it, bite off the top and squeeze the mushed banana into their mouth) set me up for the rest of the ride. Carlos was very curious about my trip and full of information, warning me to stay away from Buenaventura (Henry did too, miming guns and stabbings!), not to be out after dark (armed men are out even in these parts) and under no circumstances wild camp. He was impressed that Osmand was directing me right - he told me that online maps often go wrong around here. A very pleasant break.

I set off again up the last part of the climb. I had been sweating ferociously since the start and am genuinely amazed at how much water I expel! 

The summit when it came was a bit of a damp squib but it gave me some options. There's a lake to my west that I can cycle around if I like. There are some camping options over there. But it's a windy lake and home to lots of windsurfing schools. There's more climbing to get around but if the wind is with me.........?

*The lake which I considered doing a lap of. I'd have a tough headwind all the time and the lake left me cold. So I skipped it.*


It wasn't! In fact it was very much against me! And, surprisingly for me, the lake didn't look like much. I wonder what it is about Colombian lakes but they're not doing it for me. I stuck with plan A and stuck to my side of the lake.

The descent, when the wind wasn't trying to strangle me, was a lot of fun. Fast! Twisty! Hurtling down to a bend I saw what I thought were two touring cyclists ahead of me. I was right but they were walking. I pulled up to see if I could help. She had a puncture on her totally unsuitable road bike with teeny tiny tyres and a big load. I offered patches but the tube was apparently completely fecked. They were walking on to a small village around the bend. How long they had been pushing I have no idea but they were as happy as Larry doing so. Me? I'd be feckin' and blinding at having to push down but they didn't stop smiling. We wished each other luck and I set off again realising I hadn't asked their names or where they were from or going to. Passing the "village" I had my doubts they'd find a new tube there.

A little later I sailed past a bail out option, a roadside hotel and restaurant. I was about 15km from a town no way was I going to spend a night on the side of the road. 

*Back on a small road to Restrepo*



​I turned off the main road and zipped a bit more downhill on a narrow road lined with bright green tall grass. I had to modify my speed because of the terrible surface. A few humps and I arrived at the town of Restrepo. No coffee in the Plaza but a bakery supplied the necessary. Caffeined up, I headed for a hotel recommended by Carlos. A beautiful, old building and a decent rate including breakfast. A cold, mountain cold, shower and out to explore. 

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2022)

Day 884 Monday, February 14, 2022, Restrepo

_*The church in Restrepo*_







_*
The Plaza*_








_*
These towns can have a real hodgepodge of housing styles*_







_*
One of the worst placed Town signs that I've come across*_







_*
Arty Farty shot*_







_*
No, not a shot of a Corsa, but one of the very, very few examples of street art*_







_*
We're waiting for you! Dream your future, come to school*_






_*
The inside of the pleasant church. The stained glass above the altar was striking*_






_*
These fellas were in the Plaza. Despite the "cages" I'm assuming they are replicas - have a look in the background for why 😀*_







_*
And another.*_
*





*​
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2022)

Day 885 Tuesday, February 15, 2022, Restrepo to Yumbo 46km Total KM 16662
Min meters 1015, Max Meters 1782,
Total Climb 896, Total Descent 1270
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 28

It seems that the cheese eating surrender monkeys have taken a dislike to me!

Of late internet has been very fickle. Last night I had no signal in my room so sat beside the reception desk to update this. Since the upgrade to the forum software the process has become more frustrating and generally takes longer than before. Last night I had the added distraction of a couple having sex close by to distract me. At first, it was a single, female moan that I thought nothing of - probably a tv - but it developed a rhythm of its own and increased in volume, eventually penetrating my consciousness. The lack of a musical soundtrack confirmed that it was a "live" performance as opposed to TV.
Now, this wasn't my first time hearing a couple having sexytime on this trip but it was certainly the most public. And a little strange.
For a start there was no other noise whatsoever. Not a whimper from the other participant, not an exchange of words. And no environmental noise at all - it's a very old building and walking anywhere was accompanied by creaks and groans.
To add to the strangeness, the night receptionist was a stern lady of advanced years who sighed and tut tutted at regular intervals.
I found it amusing although it didn't help a nagging sense of loneliness.

*Taking a breather in the shade*


Breakfast was included so at 7:30 I was tucking into scrambled eggs, an arepa and cheese with a coffee. Then the bike was retrieved - Roccado had his own room and I loaded up. I thought about and rejected the notion of another coffee, anxious to get on the road.

*The countryside changes so quickly around here*


The first few kms would be flatish then I'd drop before starting a 400 meter climb to La Cumbre. I expected to lunch there then probably continue on to Yumbo at a lower altitude. I wasn't sure about that, though. This was a road I'd rejected on the way north but had been recommended by Remi, the French bikepacker.

*A whole new palette of colours*


The only thing of note was slightly heavier traffic than yesterday but not much by most standards. There was little to see in the early stages but things opened up for the short descent. Going down was tricky with a dodgy surface and sharp bends.

*Am I heading into a desert?*





Things got a whole lot more interesting when I had a blowout on my front tyre. At first, I had no idea what was going on. I was hurtling down when all of a sudden the steering became heavy, the bike pulled me to the centre of the road and became incredibly unstable. I wrestled the handlebars to the right, hit the brakes and lost control just as I stopped. Still with no idea what happened I looked down and saw the front tyre flatter than I've ever seen it. I've never had such a rapid deflation. It was damn scary!

*Patches of green where the farmers are busy*


In bright sunshine I pushed on a bit to where there was shade but some dogs were having none of that! I pushed a bit further to a quieter spot and set about removing the wheel.

*Colours! And a hot wall!*​




I found the hole pretty quickly but it was on the underside of the tube - the bit that's not in contact with the tyre. I checked the tyre anyway, found nothing then turned to the rim. Sure enough, in roughly the right spot the rim tape had moved exposing the "hole" the nipple lives in. Unsure if it would stay in place with a pressurised tube in there I dug out my electrical tabe to cover the area anyway. Then got ready to leave. I was still a bit shaken by the whole experience.

_*Rolling hills and a rolling bend!*_
*



*​I didn't have to worry for long about a fast descent because the climb started. And started with a bang - all the steep bits first. With the temperature hovering around the 30C mark it was hot work. And slow.

*That's my road down there*



​At a certain point I really started to regret not having a second coffee! I had lots of water, though and I needed it. I was sweating like a very sweaty thing again. The road was very steep at times, the bends very sharp and the camber of the road added to the steepness of the bends. The easiest and safest was to push around the bends on the more gentle side - whatever that may be.

_*Some of the bends were crazy steep*_
*



*​A couple in a car stopped for a chat on the roadside. I was invited back to Restrepo for coffee! I declined.
I also saw the first tractor that I've seen in ages working on a perilously steep hill. I also picked up a couple of passengers at one of my stops. Setting off I started getting a stinging sensation on first, one ankle, then both. Two tiny feckin' ants!!!

*My road(s)*



​
To be continued.......

Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2022)

Day 885 Tuesday, February 15, 2022, Restrepo to Yumbo 46km Total KM 16662
Min meters 1015, Max Meters 1782,
Total Climb 896, Total Descent 1270
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 28

It seems that the cheese eating surrender monkeys have taken a dislike to me! Part Two

_*This was beyond steep! Just lying there waiting to crush my spirit*_
*



*​
By the time I made it to the top I was ready to call it a day but of course, I wasn't finished. A slight descent over a few kms and I arrived in the small settlement of Pavas. Bigger then it looked on a map I pulled up for coffee at a roadside kiosk (no Plaza). I was horrified to be served instant coffee! The Touring Gods were having a laugh!
I also bought an empanada and a cold drink then set off for the 4km to La Cumbre. Instant or not, I was bloody glad I'd had a coffee! The ascent was ridiculously steep. I'm talking 20% steep and sometimes above! The road "levelled off" at gradients of 8%!
I pushed. And swore! And understood why no-one likes the French! 

*Mountain life*



​La Cumbre when I arrived was a disappointment. The Plaza was new and was more of a sports area than a relaxation area. There was no sign of a church. I got a proper coffee (Yaaaàaay!) and a bite to eat in a bakery from a girl who could turn curdled milk sour and decided to move on.
That meant another 300 meter climb as steep as the last section. I braced myself and set off.

_*The one advantage of height.....*_
*



*​Then the town, or rather the people, started to charm me.
I found the church on the way (up and) out and also a delightful Italian restaurant with a wonderful mural. Stopping to take a couple of photos I had a veritable line of people queueing up to talk to me. It was quite pleasant and had me thinking of staying. But I was committed (and I hadn't seen a place to stay).

*I'd pass a whole forest of these trees. The leaves in the wind made an eerie noise*


Looking at my climbing for the day it's nothing special but the meters don't illuminate the grade. It was hideous. Push, pause, push some more. My mood wasn't helped by a sharp increase in traffic.
When the gradient lessened I hopped on and cycled, generally to the next bend where the gradient went well into double figures again. A false summit nearly finished me off. Then I arrived at the top and everything changed.

*That's a hand painted sign!*


Meaning no disrespect to any women reading this bike touring can sometimes be like childbirth - agony gets forgotten about and we line up to do it all over again! With the apparent enjoyment of the lady last night

I was grinning so hard going down that nobody would believe just how much I was grimacing on the way up!

*I swore and I grunted and I cursed ....... But then ......*


Now, it wasn't the perfect descent by any means - the road could be treacherous - but I made the most of it by going as slow as I could and stopping as regularly as I could. I got to see all new sights including cycling through a forest with trees that swished at me. The descent, being just as steep as the ascent at times was either terrifying or life affirming, depending on my mood at that moment.

*There's always a tree......*


Things became trickier when the surface became concrete slabs. The "join" down the centre of the road was often danaged and lethal for a bike and the joins between slabs were often cracked or broken leading to little ramps or gaps.

_*Running along a river valley with the sun sinking behind the hills. By rights I should have gone faster......*_
*



*​Fading light in the mountains should have had me hurrying up but I neither wanted to or could go faster. Sure, I could stop less, but what's the point of that?

_*You can't see much ...... But I saw it all!*_
*



*​I had two close passes on the descent, both from oncoming traffic overtaking, one of which was when I was stopped. Having a jackass whizz past me as I stood with my back to the road having a whizz myself had a certain symmetry.

Getting close to Yumbo two guys stopped beside a motorbike started shouting at me in a way that I understood to be unfriendly, then a little later, three guys were standing in the middle if the road looking for money for "repairs" to the road. They weren't happy with donations, explicitly demanding money while waving a shovel and a rake. They weren't too happy when I weaved through them.

*Looking back......*



​Yumbo was busy. Hectically so. And with a vibe that made me cautious - Calí is just down the road. I saw a couple of places to stay, all with ridiculous stairs and kept looking until I found a place with no stairs. A decent rate, a groundfloor room and Roccado secure in a store room I had a cold shower and set out to explore.


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (14 Feb 2022)

Day 885 Tuesday, February 15, 2022, Restrepo to Yumbo 46km Total KM 16662
Min meters 1015, Max Meters 1782,
Total Climb 896, Total Descent 1270
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 28

It seems that the cheese eating surrender monkeys have taken a dislike to me! 
The Towns (and things) along the way.

_*The modern but sterile, functional Plaza in La Cumbre*_




​



_*The football pitch in La Cumbre with an amazing view*_




​



_*The church in La Cumbre, on the way out of town*_




​



_*Street Art, La Cumbre*_




​


_*Guess!*_








*A fantastic, bright Italian restaurant in La Cumbre. For people who have never been, nor probably never will get, to Italy. I really, really liked it. That's commitment to a concept. It's a pity it was closed.





*​



_*I stopped for my "arrival" coffee while still on the way down. This was a decoration made from waste metal*_




​


_*
On a dangerous bend near Yumbo*_




​


_*
Guess!*_​_*




*_





_*
Yumbo made me antsy and I limited my wanderings. There was little street art that I came across





*_​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Feb 2022)

Day 886 Wednesday, February 16, 2022, Yumbo to Santander de Quilichao 95km Total KM 16712
Min meters 983, Max Meters 1084,
Total Climb 91, Total Descent 74
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 32

Back to flat

I was up early and popped out to grab some breakfast. Maybe it's inevitable on a long trip like this but I had the very bizarre experience of stepping out into the street and not having a clue where I was. It was very disorienting. The penny eventually dropped and I shuffled off bemused for a decent version of huevos rancheros in a bakery - still not a patch on México, though!

By rights I should have been smarter and set off earlier. I'm right outside Calí and while avoiding the city I wasn't going to avoid the traffic. I was also going to be travelling south on a road I didn't take when heading north. A quick Google had shown a big road with a shoulder - I just needed to get to it.

Roccado had spent the night in a storeroom so I was able to load him up inside and wheel him outside into the world - and the rain! Whoah! This wasn't the plan! It was light rain and with the warm temperature I headed off dressed as I was. 

*Rain, crap road, crap surface, crazy traffic. It took me a while to realise that I should have left earlier.*


The traffic wasn't nice, the surface was worse and the wet weather was the icing on the cake. It was not fun. I had to make several turns on big roads to avoid the city and it was only when I was on the road to Palmira that everything settled down. I wouldn't be going to Palmira though. 

Having resisted the urge to stop for a coffee until I had some peace I pulled in to a commercial area and ordered a coffee. The young lady had the good manners to let me know it was instant coffee - thwarted! I had a cold coke instead. 

*The Flatlands!*


This is a long, flat section, hot and well trafficked - not my favourite conditions - so I had decided to put in a long day and get as much of it over with as soon as possible. My destination would be Santander de Quilichao, a crazy town I had stopped in on my way north. After that I'd have no alternate route for a while. There was a more circuitous eastern route I could take but iOverlander had some warnings dating back to 2018. Not the friendliest places it would seem. In any case, Candelaria would be my first big town.

*The nice, big road to Palmira. If you look to the right there's a bike path (I think a part of the old road) that links Calí to Palmira*


In one sense the cycling was great - I had a good shoulder, flat road and could really put the hammer down and fly along. It's very rewarding to put in the effort and see the countryside roll by. There has been very little of this kind of cycling for quite a while. It reminded me a lot of NL but with more traffic and a lot more heat.
The flip side is that it's quite boring. While it's satisfying to see km after km count down on Gizmo I'm not really the type to be motivated by that. Left and right are huge fields of sugarcane, hardly inspiring scenery and while there are plenty of interesting trees the conditions for stopping to appreciate them are not ideal.

*Lots of wonderful trees*


After taking the turnoff before Palmira and now heading due south the big, beautiful four laner became two lanes. Thankfully my shoulder remained intact although in agricultural land it was often full of dried mud or gravel. 

I diced with death to cross the road to enter Candelaria, a town that doesn't look like much along the road but surprises the traveller who ventures in. A bright and cheerful Plaza and an interesting church with great doors was enough to make the detour worthwhile. Only one lady selling coffee so I sat down to have a think. I had about 50km in the bank with about the same to go. But I was bored. This was where I could take a loop east that was longer, hiller and on a smaller road. To hell with the warnings, I thought, 2018 was a long time ago. 

*Sugarcane. Great stuff! Just not much fun to cycle past*


I had just made up my mind when a young guy approached me and started talking swiftly to me. I knew he wanted money but I couldn't follow his language. I replied that I was only learning Spanish and asked if he could speak slower. To my surprise he rolled his eyes, sighed and in a definite angry tone recounted the same spiel just as fast. I looked at him and gestured with my hands that I wasn't understanding when he barked at me for not understanding and went through his spiel for a third time. It was only later that the penny dropped that he was following a "script" of some kind and making no allowance for his audience. For the third time I told him I didn't understand and that I couldn't if he spoke so fast. I also told him that I had nothing for him prompting him to glare at me and stomp off, still glaring over his shoulder. 
It's getting annoying being constantly asked for money. Perhaps it's me but people who don't demand, who speak a bit slower and come across as genuine are more likely to get something. It's particularly galling when I appear to be picked out and a beeline made for me. It practically never happens when I'm on the bike. The bike (and helmet) were parked up about 10 meters away.

_*Interesting things from today....*_
_*A convoy of horses and carts.....
I thought my travelling method was tough.....*_
*That's some kind of a flying bug, about the size of my big toe. These guys have a habit of flying into my chest which results in them hitting the ground.*



​I had a bite to eat and while eating a few comments were directed less to me and more about me by people passing by. I decided, that no, I won't take the loop. I'll stick to the main road. Before leaving town I hit a bank and as I turned a corner a man crossing the road dropped his phone without noticing. I called out a few times to get his attention, finally got it, explained and pointed to the phone and received not a jot of gratitude. Or even recognition. Nothing. Zip. Nada. (Later, a woman dropped a 2000 peso note, about 50 cents, and I did the same to the exact same reaction. I handed her the note and she snapped it out of my fingers, turned around and walked away.) 

*Back on a two laner. Decent shoulder most of the time and lots of those sugarcane truck trains*


Back on the road, fuelled up by food, coffee and some indignation I powered along. Lots of traffic didn't affect me much in my shoulder. I bypassed Puerto Tejada because it looked too big and too far but pulled off into Villa Rica for another coffee in another Plaza. I could see the sky darkening but couldn't make myself hurry up. I had a second coffee. 

*But sometimes, just sometimes I had this......*


Setting off I had a bit of a race on my hands. The temperature dropped 5 degrees in five kms, a sure sign of impending rain. The wind had picked up too. To be honest, I wasn't in the mood for Santander de Quilichao - it's a crazy busy place but iOverlander had a hotel on the outskirts that was bike tourist friendly. I could avoid the town. 
A storm seemed to be incoming as I arrived but the bike friendly place was too expensive. Another place up the road but outside the centre was cheaper. A couple of shops and some eating places nearby meant a quiet night. Home! 

_*Today's río is running through the sugarcane*_
*



*



_*Getting near the craziness and trying to beat a scary looking sky*_
*



*​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (15 Feb 2022)

Day 886 Wednesday, February 16, 2022, Yumbo to Santander de Quilichao 95km Total KM 16712
Min meters 983, Max Meters 1084,
Total Climb 91, Total Descent 74
Min Temp 21 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 32

Back to flat

The Towns along the way

_*Guess!*_
_*











The very pleasant church in Candelaria*_












*The impressive door of the church*











_*Pigeon house! One of the prettiest so far!*_
_*










Do i have to?








Street Art, Villa Rica









A pleasant, utilitarian Plaza in Villa Rica





*_




_*Coming into Crazytown with a threatening sky*_
_*










Stalls along the road (next morning)










Street Art Santander de Quilichao (next morning)*_
*




*​


Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Feb 2022)

Some Odds'n'Ends.....


*I love how ordinary things are recycled into something special








And I thought I was heavily loaded!








When the road changes...... It changes!









Elections are coming up









Subsidence is everywhere......









Lizards are everywhere! 









Hmmmmmmm. Cake!






I have no idea!









More recycling. Simple and cheerful








Town signs are often sponsored, usually with beer and can be miles from the town. Often they include basic info to do with population, altitude and average temperature as well as the town motto or slogan




*​
Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (16 Feb 2022)

Day 887 Thursday, February 17, 2022, Santander de Quilichao to Roadside Restaurant/Hotel* 25km Total KM 16737
Min meters 1088, Max Meters 1487,
Total Climb 581, Total Descent 286
Min Temp 24 Max Temp 41 Ave Temp 35


*Google: 2.8413141, -76.5436373


An overnight visit from the Puncture Fairy


Sleep didn't come easy nor early last night. I woke up at 6:30, got dressed and promptly lay back down for a nap. I woke up an hour later feeling worse. I had no enthusiasm for the day so went across the road for a coffee. I'm back on a familiar road, dull by Colombian standards, and most of it is uphill.


I returned to the hotel, dropped my gear down to reception then downstairs to pick up Roccado. Puncture! Rear wheel flat as the proverbial. What a start to the day!

*Is this not a perfect road? Good shoulder, decent surface, interesting vegetation........ I just wasn't feeling it.*


I set about fixing it - a surprisingly small hole with no source in the tyre. Finally, I was ready to go. Now I needed breakfast though. I stopped at a bakery and as I dismounted one of the girls working there was staring at me with a huge smile and bright eyes. She was soon over to talk about my trip telling me how much she wanted to do something similar herself. She worried about being fit and strong enough. I kept shtum about my 95km day yesterday and explained that there are no rules. On a bike we can travel for as long or short as we like. A 20km day can be very pleasant.
While I was eating an older man approached me to ask me where I was from, where I had travelled to and where I was off to. He finished with a "Welcome to Colombia". A lot of people do that here, even now that I'm here five months! Five months!

*An interesting old bridge along what I presume is the old version of this road*


To get out of town I had to climb a hill that was taller than all the climbing yesterday! Then it was an up and down road followed by a descent and then the start of a long climb to Piendamó. With my nap, the puncture, the leisurely breakfast I had left late and was now getting the full blast of the sun.

*A very rare sight! No, not chickens, the fact that they are behind bars!! I have become so used to chickens aling the roadside that I'm going to miss them when I'm in a more "civilised" place*


Before that climb I pulled in for a cold drink at a small settlement along the road. The young girl serving me laughed at my pronunciation so we had a chat with granny in the corner listening in. I'd parked across the road so when I returned to Roccado to head off again I was surprised when a line of soldiers emerged from a small road and started to fan out along the main road. Given the choice of a long, hot climb or some excitement I plumped for the latter and settled myself on the kerb.
Nothing happened. Some held their guns as I imagine highly trained soldiers do but others held them casually - as I imagine I might do on a hot day when I'm tired. There was no interaction with the locals, no stopping of traffic, just a dozen or so armed soldiers stretched out on both sides of the road. The only excitement was when a passing motorbike backfired. I nearly jumped out of my skin and was leaning over to lie flat on the ground when it dawned on me what had happened. The soldiers didn't seem bothered at all. With nothing happening I set off again.

*In fairness to Colombia there is rarely anything that is not interesting to see...... It just didn't feel like it. I tried drumming up enthusiasm but it wasn't working*



I am not enjoying the climbing at the moment. It doesn't help that I'm on familiar roads. A cycling buddy would be good to gee me up seeing as I'm not doing a good job of it myself.
It was slow going and any bit of shade, a rare commodity, was utilised.

*The countryside was doing its best for me*


I had to reach an altitude of 1800 meters having left at about 1000 meters. At 1400 meters though, I still had the guts of another 1000 meters to go because of all the ups and downs in the road. I figured that out sitting at a little roadside place having a coffee. Any break from the heat was welcome.

*A little cascada on a little río*



I knew there'd be places to stay along the way though and as I set off again I could feel my enthusiasm for another 1000 meters waning. It's not that I was lacking anything physically, the lack was between my ears. There's little that's new ahead of me, little of interest, and the sense of exploration, of discovery has disappeared.

*There's a lot of political graffiti.......*


I stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch and had some very good chicken and a pleasant and interesting chat with a girl working there. Since they had good food and rooms I enquired about the cost for a night. 25k said one girl, the other said 20k. Sold!

*I still get a little overwhelmed by the sheer variety of vegetation*


A leisurely late afternoon and relaxing night was just what the doctor ordered.

*A part of someone's back garden! Imagine growing up there!*​







*Long. Dull. Dreary. Repetitive. That wasn't what was on display but it was what I was feeling*






​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Feb 2022)

Day 888 Friday, February 18, 2022, Roadside Restaurant/Hotel to Piendamó 27km Total KM 16764
Min meters 1364, Max Meters 1885,
Total Climb 799, Total Descent 288
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 20

Bleh! Bleh! Bleh!

This is a very unusual entry, written several days later with a grand total of four words of notes. There aren't even many photos because of rain. 

Today was the day the wheels came off - metaphorically only. I could drum up no enthusiasm. At all. A decent breakfast didn't help. An extra cup of coffee didn't help and rain certainly didn't help. 

*The angry río beside the hotel/restaurant as I was setting off.*


After being up at 6:30 it was almost 10am when I finally pushed off into the rain. Rain was the last thing I wanted to see. Up ahead is Piendamo where I can take a figary and do a loop on backroads that will bring me to Popoyán. That figary also leaves me close to San Agustín from where I can pick up the road to Mocoa and the Trampoline. Those roads will not be fun after rain. And there's been a lot of rain lately. There's a hefty amount of climbing too. 

*Bah! I had zero enthusiasm. I didn't want to stay, I didn't want to go on. On one level I knew the feeling would pass, but in that moment it didn't feel like it.*


I set off in heavy traffic and while the rain wasn't heavy it was constant. Large volumes of water are raised by passing traffic which adds to the wetting effect. I adopted the strategy of stopping at every stall along the road where I could have a coffee and some shelter. Slow progress. Especially since I was climbing pretty much the whole time. 

*One of my coffee stops. Normally a hive of noise and activity it was messy, muddy and barely tolerable*


It's not that I don't like rain, or that I'm a huge wuss. The rain here though, even when it's not heavy consists of huge drops that hit and spread. It's quite unpleasant. Add in a head in poor form it's not a good combination.

At least the rain eased off but there was always the threat of more. 
I could find no pleasure along the way. My enthusiasm was at zero. This hadn't sprung up overnight, it had been building for days.

_*Lots of trees. Normally "Wow!", today "Bleh".*_
*



*​For a start, I'm coming to the end of this trip. I knew that would hit me at some point and now it has. The fact that I'll be finishing in Ecuador and not Patagonia as planned feels like a failure of sorts.
Then there's Ecuador. A figary taken really to extend the trip. I'll need about a week to reach Quito (all uphill!). It doesn't feel like I'll be "touring" in Ecuador. No doubt the equator will be one big tourist extravaganza. Why am I going to Ecuador? To add one more country to my list. That's not me.
Finally, there's the road to Ecuador - one that I've already travelled. Pasto to Ipiales I'll be travelling some of the road for the third time! That feels boring. And hard. Some of the accommodation is pretty poor. It's one thing to arrive late, tired, dirty, hungry and thirsty - any port in a storm. It's a different thing to know the dirty, uncomfortable room I'm heading for.

Yeah, I know. Poor me. 

*Nope! Nada. Zilch.*
_



_​The thing is, though, that feelings aren't reality. I know that - I just don't feel it. Frustrating!

This trip is nothing like a failure! It wasn't what I had planned but is all the more wonderful for that.
Ecuador I still need to get my head around and I could do with rediscovering my "Touring Head".
And the road to Ipiales? I have alternatives. Not easy alternatives, but they exist. Besides, what kind of a Dumbass on the other side of the world decides that he's seen it all? 

*This was the driveway up to someone's home. The bushes were full if multicoloured flowers visible from a long way back. My camera doesn't do them justice*


I had several long chats with myself along that road. Not a lot changed in terms of my mentality but my destination did. I'd stop in Piendamo for the night. I'd pamper myself, relax and give my head a bit of time to get itself together. I'd still have the figary option in the morning if I felt like it. 

*Not even this proud beacon of a Palm tree could excite me*




​The rain that had lightened off returned, preceded by ear shattering thunder. Piendamo was traffic pandemonium and I turned off, pulling in for a coffee at the first opportunity. I spied a modern looking hotel and checked it out. A decent rate and a place for Roccado out of the rain. A temperate shower was better than cold. 

*Scenery? Bleh!*


Stripping off for the shower I noticed an extreme discomfort in my nether regions. I didn't just have a saddle sore, I had a bulbous ball of bile. I hadn't felt a thing all day but now there was an angry boil making its presence felt. I had dug out the only padded shorts I have (cheap Lidl ones) for the long hot days on the flat after not wearing them in ages. That came back to bite me on the butt, literally! I burst the boil, liberally sprayed alcohol (a stinging sensation on the target area, a pleasantly warm sensation elsewhere) and applied some balm.

*A tipper truck race!*


Then I put on some "normal" clothes and lay down on the bed. It was a couple of hours before I braved the rain for some food - a difficult chore - then back to my room. As luck would have it, Carlito's Way was on TV (in Spanish), one of my favourite movies. Let the pampering commence.

*Piendamó. Wet and crazy. I had zero urge to explore. That is unusual.*



​Chat? Yes Please!
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## HobbesOnTour (17 Feb 2022)

Day 888 Friday, February 18, 2022, Roadside Restaurant/Hotel to Piendamó 27km Total KM 16764
Min meters 1364, Max Meters 1885,
Total Climb 799, Total Descent 288
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 20

Bleh! Bleh! Bleh! 

The Towns along the way


*I turned off into Tunia, a small town just shy of Piendamo. A run down place with a completely empty Plaza (mind you it was raining). I've never seen an empty Plaza in the daytime before.*​







*This stole my heart a little bit. I am really impressed at the detail that goes into these things, especially in a little backwater that has a main road running past. It speaks to some kind of strength, of commitment








The Plaza and the church. Wonderful moss hanging down to add to the atmosphere










Street art in Tunia. The brightness and colour is a real contrast to the dull, broken village








Piendamó church by night








Victims of the conflict abandoned/forgotten







Piendamó, land of peace. I'm not sure what the exhortation is. I think it's something like join together








The same mural, the same theme











Another peace mural. This one celebrating "Victims' Day"*​*





*
Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Feb 2022)

Day 889 Saturday, February 19, 2022, Piendamó to Popoyán 35km Total KM 16799
Min meters 1755, Max Meters 1923,
Total Climb 489, Total Descent 607
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 30

Ah! Cascadas!

*Just one of many cascadas of various sizes and power that lined my route. Seeing my first one was a reminder that not all familiar things are boring. They make wonderful music to encourage me along. A spirit lifter.*


If finding dinner last night was a chore, so too was finding breakfast this morning. At least it was dry but a lot of rain had fallen.
I loaded up and set off towards Popoyán. I was feeling a bit better in the head, but far from 100%. I didn't fancy heading into serious climbing and bad roads unless I was feeling ready - and I wasn't. Besides, there was another road I could take closer to Popoyán if things improved as I went along.

I set off with more enthusiasm than yesterday and it being the weekend there was no shortage of roadies out and about. I dislike intensely how closely they pass me.
To calm me down I passed a waterfall cascading down beside me and was reminded that these roads are full of waterfalls. Things are looking up!
It helped that there was a bright, blue sky and a golden sun beaming down on me.
The elevation profile was jagged, filled with short, sharp climbs and descents but the road was reasonable and I had a decent shoulder most of the time.

*A decent road, a decent shoulder, not flat and a long, long line of traffic. The story of my day*


The only hitch were the Sunday drivers - on a Saturday! There's a definite drop in driving standards on the weekend. Impatience seems to be the dominant vibe with crazy overtakes on blind bends. Whereas normally I'm a respected member of traffic on the road Sundays, and apparently now Saturdays, seem to make me invisible.

*Uninspiring landscape....... For Colombia! How spoilt am I?*


I was so distracted by the traffic that it took me a while to realise that this is actually a new road for me! On my way north I had turned off after leaving Popoyán to visit Silvia and had rejoined the road at Piendamó. I chastised myself gently for whinging about covering old ground while not realising I was in virgin territory.

_*There's always a tree ....... And a pothole!*_
*



*​I was not looking forward to visiting Popoyán again but a lack of accommodation on the other side and the option of still taking that figary route made me decide for another short day. In a new found spirit of re-exploration I decided Popoyán deserved a second chance. I also decided I needed a bit more pampering. I'd enjoyed my movie last night, another one tonight would be good.

*Political slogans are common*


Seeing a brown, tourist sign for an historical Hacienda (and having a quick look on Google) I decided to turn off before Popoyán for a bit of history. I actually cycled past it and stopped in front of a store a lady came over to ask if I was lost. I told her where I was looking for and pointed back down the road. She assured me it was there so I set off. Closed! It seems that all my cultural excursions on this trip are destined to fail!

*This wild explosion of greenery is caused by a small río. It is amazing to me (still!) just how important these little rivers and streams are*


My hotel was decent and after a cold shower I popped out to explore. On the edge of the old town, opposite to where I'd stayed previously, direction of exploration was important. Head towards town? Fine. Head away from town? Not so fine. Addicts, beggars, rough sleepers in numbers far out of proportion for the size of the place. Uncomfortable.

_*The source of the greenery bubbling furiously along*_
*



*​Popoyán didn't change my mind. Still didn't like the place. I got some disappointing food, hit a supermarket and returned to my big bed and big tv.

_*Another río, wild and gushing. For me, water is a great balm and Colombia provided today.*_
*



*



_*A sad, lacklustre and frankly depressing "memorial" on the site of the "first" battle for Colombian independence. The contrast with Boyoca (the bridge) was striking.*_
*









The closed, Colonial era Hacienda. I had hoped to visit and learn a bit about plantation (for that is what it was) life in Colombia. Apparently, the last surviving member of the original family still lived here. But the gates were closed and signs up screamed "Private Property" and "No Trespassing".*



​














See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (19 Feb 2022)

Day 889 Saturday, February 19, 2022, Popoyán

*A bright and cheerful fruit stand*








*There's always a tree!*








*An elegant church and a terrifying sky!*









*A real town of contrasts. There are elegant buildings like this and entire blocks in ruins*








*The Plaza. A huge, stetile square containing a smaller square of green life. Definitely one of the most elegant and striking Plazas I have visited and yet one of the coldest, most sterile. At least I found a coffee vendor this time!*










*One side of the Plaza. The graffiti had been removed from the walls this time. Other "White cities" are warm, inviting, interesting and draw me in. Something here repels me.*









*Another elegant church*









*I find no warmth here and the graffiti is angry and intimidating.*











*It cleans up well but ....... There's something that refuses to let me settle. That's unusual for me*









*A couple of smaller, simpler churches*



​



See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...g&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Feb 2022)

Day 890 Sunday, February 20, 2022, Popoyán to Rosas 41km Total KM 16840
Min meters 1405, Max Meters 1958,
Total Climb 926, Total Descent 942
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 31 Ave Temp 24


The best laid plans of mice and men.....

I was asleep early and awake late. I had a shower to shake off the cobwebs, opted for a simple breakfast in the hotel because there were few enough places close to the hotel, got organised and my bags down to the parking garage. Except Roccado wasn't where I had left him. Someone had dragged (and yes, that's the right word) him to the far end. The fact that a cable lock was running through the saddle and back wheel didn't stop them, the front brake being locked didn't either. I was furious! The lock had been wrapped around the cassette as tightly as it could go and all four brake blocks had come out of alignment. I vented my anger with reception and set about checking everything and redoing the brakes. It took at least 10 minutes just to extricate the lock. They had also knackered my mirror that I had picked up at the Casa de Ciclistas. 

*Leaving Popoyán. Hardly a nomination for the greatest road. With less loony drivers it would have been more comfortable*


Fuming and unable to wait to get the hell out of town I rolled away. Out of Popoyán I had no shoulder and being a Sunday there was crazy traffic and crazy drivers. I knew this road south to Pasto dropped its shoulder at some point and Murphy's Law kicked in as no shoulder appeared on the far side of town. And did I mention the rain? 

*In fairness without traffic it was pretty.*


It was very unpleasant cycling and a couple of days ago would have had me very down but a couple of days of pampering had begun to screw my touring head on better so I determined to make the most of it. There were lots of places to stop for a coffee so I did. Often. In one little shack a young woman gave me the most wonderful smile. On a dark, dreary, wet and miserable day it was better than the sun. I'll take my sustenance anywhere I can get it.

*As the road weaved around the rain came and went.*


Timbio was the first town and after a coffee and a pastry I set off into lighter traffic. The rain lightened too, then finally stopped. Interestingly, after yesterday being chock a block with cyclists today there were only a handful. I wasn't the only cyclist apparently to not enjoy this stretch. In actual fact the traffic wasn't so much lighter as being backed up somewhere - in both directions. This meant relative calm for long stretches thaen maybe 50-60 vehicles pssing in convoy. With crazy overtaking manoeuvres going in I'd pull in to let the crazy past. I was in no rush. Rosas was down the road (or rather up a big hill) but El Bordo was my destination. I remembered well the luxurious hotel with the good rate! Having lost so much time El Bordo was looking unlikely,though. I wasn't going to push myself - today had one priority - stay safe.

*My views were limited*


The road was very up and down - steep both ways - with lots of twists and turns. The surface was unreliable making descents tricky - especially with long lines of impatient traffic in either direction. Being a Sunday my biggest scares came from oncoming traffic doing dumb overtaking manoeuvres. 

_*The ríos were angry and in a rush*_
*



*​To get to Rosas I had to climb 400 meters and in desperate need of caffeine pulled in to a stand on the side of the road. I asked for coffee but was told they had none. I was gutted! Having a smoke the lady emerged from her own house at the back of the stand with a cup if coffee! My heroine! When I went to leave I could see no sign of her but left 3k beside the cup. She swiftly came after me to tell me it was too much. I told her it was worth it to me that I really needed my coffee. We argued good naturedly about it and I set off in a much more optimistic state of mind.

*Easy to understand why the place is so green!*


The 400 meter climb went by quite well and at the top I stopped and did a quick calculation. If I pushed it I could make El Bordo before dark. It was lumpy but doable, I reckoned. 45km in two hours, maybe a bit more daylight. Besides, Rosas was small, the scene of my dog bite and I was damned if I was going back to that dingy hotel. I had seen another in the town. That couldn't be worse. But El Bordo it was! 

_*One picture to sum up the day. Crazy drivers on unreliable roads*_
*



*​A couple of things happened on the descent. The first was that the area at the back of my knee started to throb - that's where the dog bit me! I haven't noticed anything there in weeks and now it's throbbing! Isn't the mind an amazing thing?
The second is that big rain drops started to fall. 
Oh! Two dogs gave chase and I'm pretty sure one of them was the biter!

*A bit of wild......*



​On that descent to the town I changed my mind, pulled off into the village and wandered around trying to remember where I saw the little hotel. I found it - not difficult in a small town - and checked in. Retrieving the bike the back wheel was flat as the proverbial! It seems like I had made the right decision! As if to confirm, it rained all night. 

_*Rosas. Check out the road!*_
*







Street art from Rosas*




​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...g&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (20 Feb 2022)

Day 891 Monday, February 21, 2022, Rosas to El Bordo 42km Total KM 16882
Min meters 962, Max Meters 1729,
Total Climb 478, Total Descent 1164
Min Temp 18 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 31
Much better!! Crap road!

Rules? What rules???

*Trees!*



​I had a leisurely breakfast before leaving Rosas. I was in no rush. El Bordo was my short goal for the day. After El Bordo the road will split - the old and the new Pan-American - and I have to make up my mind which to do. The new I did on the way north. The old is longer, steeper and less well serviced. I had originally planned to take it north but after the tunnel fiasco outside of Pasto the advice of the pickup driver was to take the new one. So I did.

_*Setting off. There's nothing like a bit of mountain hugging clouds for some atmosphere*_
*



*​It may have been a short day but it was a good day.
First of all I had to chastise myself for wanting to push on last night. Faced with the wonderful views on offer today I'd have missed so much yesterday, ignoring the puncture and the rain.

*When there was no traffic it was a pretty good road*


Speaking of the puncture ...... It was my own fault. The great bike adventurer can't fix a puncture properly! Somehow I hadn't glued the patch on properly and the air was leaking out. Here's a hint - don't try to remove the patch! I tried, but I'd done a great job of gluing the rest of the patch so all I did was rip a big hole in the tube!

*Then the sun came out to play.....*


The day started with a descent on relatively quiet roads. The roadworks were still taking place in Rosas and further south there were more. That meant traffic in big batches and then nada. Bliss!
To make things better low clouds hugged the mountains nearby - that's how I like to start the day!

*Nature was everywhere.....*


The road was pretty good except for when it wasn't and when it wasn't it was lethal. In no rush I could take my time. So I did. At times it seemed like it was made out of marla (that's Irish, folks) or plasticine or playdough. Subsidence created smooth "kerbs" along the side of the road like a heavy truck had driven down when the road was still warm, soft and new.

_*The road was ..... Unreliable*_
*



*​The sun quickly came out and the sky punctured holes in the clouds then made them bigger and bigger. It got warm but that was fine by me - better than the rain.
The sun made magic out of one scene. On one bushy tree to the left and below the surface of the road I spied a whole bunch of colourful butteflies flitting around. The oranges, yellows and reds of their wings, not to mention the intricate designs within them glittered snd sparkled in the light. Another special scene. Unphotographable. Sorry!

_*There's two waterfalls up there and a line of traffic down here*_
*



*​There's not many places to stop along the way. That's one of the negative impacts of no shoulder. At least with the gaps between batches of traffic I could be comfortable stopped on the side of the road.

_*Vote Bike Touring! And the Rosas sign heading south*_
*



*​It won't go down as the longest or greatest day on a bike but it was just what the doctor ordered. I left in good form, I enjoyed the day and I arrived in good form.

*Waterfalls were my soundtrack of the day*


El Bordo hadn't changed much. I stopped off at the welder to show him his work was holding up well but he wasn't there and the other guy was busy. I was remembered at the hotel and I had a lazy, pleasant evening. I looked in detail at the options ahead of me and had an early night.

_*There's always a bit of colour in Colombia*_
*



*​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Feb 2022)

Day 892 Tuesday, February 22, 2022, El Bordo to Mercaderes 57km Total KM 16939
Min meters 627, Max Meters 1175,
Total Climb 855, Total Descent 673
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

Old Skool Rulez OK?

*It's hard to capture the chaos of the early morning. Motorbikes, food stalls, people rushing hither and tither......*



I had a simple goal last night - get a good night's sleep and get up early. While it wasn't the greatest night's sleep it was ok and I was up, out and on the road before 7am - the earliest for quite a while. I skipped breakfast planning on eating in Patía about 12km down the road. I did stop for a coffee though, buying it from an old chap at the Plaza. He told me it was Venezuelan coffee and after he finished pouring it from his flask he added just a couple of drops more, nodding over at Roccado across the road and saying I might need it. Such small touches, the little details, the connections are what separate the professionals from the amateurs. It stuck a smile on my face that lasted longer than my coffee.

_*And then the calmness of the early morning on the road.....*_
*



*​I'm not sure when exactly it happened but my morning routine has evolved. I remember heading south and getting a coffee and a bite from one of the many food stalls. There was usually a bit of interaction, a chat, a connection but somewhere along the line I started hitting a bakery for some kind of scrambled eggs. It's probably a healthier breakfast but the connection is different. It's lacking.

*Birds singing to me, the sun reflecting off the higher clouds the lower ones snagged on the hills......*


Traffic was chaotic and it was bin day, a slow refuse truck working its way out of town and holding up the traffic in my direction. Well, most of the traffic. The motorbikes weaved in and out freaking the bejaysus out of me. Out of town things settled down. And down was the operative word. A long, gentle descent lay ahead of me and once I'd let the backlog of traffic by it was very peaceful. Except for the crappy surface. But that wasn't bothering me this morning - going slow was the way to go.

*Not a bad road at all! (In reality it was quite tricky to ride on)*


It was a beautiful morning. The sun and clouds were playing on mountains to my right, working in tandem to illuminate some areas while shading others. Some clouds were still snagged on some of the lower hills. Views were limited though by heavy vegetation but that meant there were lots of birds and they were singing the morning away.

_*There were hundreds of these guys all trying to cross the road. I noticed something similar on the way north (can't remember if it was around here) but for whatever reason they were all concentrared in one area maybe a couple of kms long.*_
*



*​My happy heart sank when I arrived in Patía, recognised the little church and remembered this as the place with no coffee! It had no breakfast either! Estrecho would be the next spot with 25km on the clock.

*Today's río was ....... lacking water.....*


The descent had levelled off by now but I was well able to keep up my momentum. The road surface was terrible at times, though. The road was wonderfully twisty and turny and usually with a canopy of trees.

*The sun is out, rising and working its magic*


When I arrived in Estrecho I realised that I'd actually stayed the night here! A more thorough bike tourist would have reread their notes. I like the element of surprise! I guess it's a sign that some places speak to me more than others.

*Removing sand and stones from the río*


I had breakfast, another coffee and relaxed for a while. The next stage was flat to the "town" of Mojarras. I say town but in reality it's a crossroads, a couple of shops and not much else. That's where I could continue on the Pan-American back to Pasto or turn off onto the old Pan-American and go back a different way. I'd spent a bit of time investigating last night and the old road was certainly harder - longer, higher and rougher. The new road was safer, in that I was familiar with it. More services too. I'd make up my mind in Mojarras. I set off and for about ten blissful minutes there was no traffic.

*I completely missed this the last time on the road!*


On a second visit Mojarras was even more depressing than the last time. With limited food options I got a cold drink and some cake and rested up. It was coming up to 11 am and the start of the hottest part of the day. My altitude is about 550 meters so it's hot! Mojarras confirmed the idea that there would be a certain amount of disappointment involved in retracing my pedal strokes so I stocked up on water and took the old road.

_*Earlier: I like being above the clouds! *_
*



*​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Feb 2022)

Day 892 Tuesday, February 22, 2022, El Bordo to Mercaderes 57km Total KM 16939
Min meters 627, Max Meters 1175,
Total Climb 855, Total Descent 673
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 36 Ave Temp 27

Old Skool Rulez OK? Part Two

The climbing began immediately. And steeply. I'd a steep climb to 1000 meters then the gradient eased off but I'd be climbing the rest of the day. There may have been a whole lot of meters to climb but there was feck all traffic to climb with. I set off with birdsong cheering me on.

*Climbing now......*​​*



*​
It's not a great road, no shoulder (neither does the new one for long stretches) but I was enjoying myself. I had lots of time, cloud cover was blocking out the worst of the sun and as is typical here the views didn't take long to kick in. The road weaved over and back, switchback after switchback, at first stretching above me, later above and below and then ultimately just below.

*That little clearing captivated me. Was it natural or had some farmers cleared it? Why just there?*


I must be as thick as a short plank but I still get a sense of dread when I look up and see a truck or bus trundling along my road way up the mountain. Then, looking down and seeing the road I travelled not that long ago really excites me. Look up, dread, down excitement. Like a feckin' child!

_*More mountains but different. And my road down there!*_
*



*​On such a quiet road with lots of barriers I had ample places to stop on either side of the road so I used lots of them. I didn't need to adopt my "climb 100 meters take a break" rule because I was stopping regularly anyway. I could hear traffic above and below me but because of the steepness and healthy vegetation my views of it were limited.

_*Colombia really does throw a whole lot of different landscapes at the wandering bike tourist*_
*



*​Every now and then I'd hit a button on Gizmo and see myself closer to the 1000 meter mark. When I did arrive there was no fanfare but a noticable drop in the gradient. Instead of regularly dealing with double digit grades I was pedalling at double digit speeds.

*There's a simplicity, a brightness and a bit of pride that I really, really like. Of course, being Colombia it's miles away from the town!*


I was now on a plateau. Away to my left was a row of blue mountains, away off in the distance and to my right there was an angry, thunderous sky closing in. The thunder started and became more frequent. It's funny, thunder here is loud and very frequent. At home if I heard such thunder I'd be hightailing it for cover but here it's just a normal, everyday event.

*The great thing about climbing - the views! And my road down there!*


Mercaderes was the next town I was aiming for. I knew there were places to stay and although early enough to stop I had a 600 meter climb to the next town. There was nothing impressive until I got to the small, neat Plaza. The church, built in 1969 is the latest incarnation for a parish that goes back 450 years! Then I saw a fabulous tree in the Plaza and I was hooked. The thought ocurred to me just how good it feels to be back exploring.

*This one has three levels of my road! And yes! It was my road. There was hardly any traffic.*


I pulled up in front of the church for the traditional photo then was mesmerized by a tree! A fruit seller took advantage of my good mood to pitch a sale and a few minutes later I was eating a mix of different fruit over a base of sweet flavoured crushed ice. Not coffee, but not bad at all.

*It seems so different from yesterday, from last week, last month*


Then I moseyed my way through the town and found a place recommend on iOverlander. For 15k (about €3) I have a room big enough for the bike and myself and a shared (very clean) bathroom and shower. A cold shower later and I was off out to explore.

*Up top, still climbing but much more gently across a plateau*



It looks like I made the right decision to take the old road.

*Again, so different......*



​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...g&ll=5.98386317438931,-60.275798920395914&z=1
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Feb 2022)

Day 892 Tuesday, February 22, 2022, Mercaderes

Lots of low buildings
*



*



Not a one horse town - a two horse and a foal town!
*



*




Architecture tends to be functional
*



*




But colourful......
*












*




The pleasant church
*



*




Always a bit of colour
*



*




The watertower
*








Don't go by the picture ...... This is an amazing tree



*




For a two and a half horsepower town the sunset wasn't bad!​​*



*​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Feb 2022)

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world


Ah! It's funny how the world works. I'm writing this up with a big grin across my face and a little while ago I posted about a few days back when I had zero enthusiasm. This bike touring thing is good for the soul!

*It was a very pleasant start to the day rolling easily along a relatively flat landscape*


I had a poor night's sleep in a bed with a mattress that sagged so much it felt partially like a coffin. Nonetheless I was up and out (a poor, sleepy eyed girl having to let me out) and grabbing a coffee well before 7am. 
I like to play a little game by asking if they have coffee and reacting excitedly when they (nearly always) say yes. It's 50/50 whether people respond with a smile or a grunt. This morning the girl responded with a bright, beaming smile and that alone relegated the poor night's sleep to ancient history.

*Those clouds!!!*


I had some scrambled eggs, a second coffee then fired up Gizmo and off I went. Dumbass had mislabeled the file I made last night and nothing was showing up on Gizmo. Instead of a climb and a long descent followed by a climb I actually had more plateau then a bugger of a climb! Oh well.

*The landscape had soul this morning. An other-worldly atmosphere......*​




The road was rolling up and down and to either side and in front I had mountains. There's no escaping them around here. Clouds were hugging the monsters making them seem less intimidating. I do like my mountain hugging clouds.

With the peaks of the (relatively) low mountains hitting the clouds I started to get a feeling that I was cycling on top of the world....... Ha! Dumbass!**





Since the mountains were still pretty far away they were a blend of grey and blue, a little vague and decorated prettily by the clouds but as I rolled along the deserted road and got closer they began to change. Details became clearer, shades of colour emerged out of the gloom, and the sun, which had been hidden behind low cloud, now began to dance over them. Despite being at only about 1200 meters of elevation I started to feel like I was on top of the world. Or at least close to the top. Only the mountain peaks were higher.

*The sun and the clouds. A creative pair.*


This is the genuinely amazing thing about Colombia - the sheer, mind bending variety of the place and the speed at which it can change - and I'm no speeder on the bike. I am finally getting an understanding of what diversity looks like. Never mind Central America, I've been in Colombia five months and most days I have been seeing or travelling in mountains. And yet, I've seen none like this. I thought I had seen all there was to see. Ha! Dumbass!

*Detail lost in the distance. Mystery. I wanted to get there......*


The whole experience was made more special by virtue of the fact that I had the road practically to myself. This just added to the whole other-worldly experience.

*All for me! Hardly a soul along the road......*




Of course, nothing lasts forever and the wide open plateau began to close in and I lost my open, epic views. The Touring Gods had laid on a hump to get me used to climbing before the big one and passing a little settlement of a few houses I called out to the lady in a shop asking about coffee. But of course! 

_*It's bloody hard to take a shot into the sun but I'm quite proud of this one*_
*



*

Accompanied with bread and cheese it was a revitalising little snack. Two older women were running the shop, well into their sixties at least and kept up a running conversation betwen themselves and anyone who stopped by. 

*Mountainous Mystery......*​





The local news agency I reckoned judging by what snippets I could pick up, soaking up what news they could to pass it on to the next person. There was no problem talking about the Gringo on the bike despite the fact that said Gringo was well within earshot! 
An older man pulled up on his motorbike and sat, still as a very still thing. He didn't say a word just waited. For what I had no idea. After about ten minutes one of the women walked over to him and got on behind him, a bag of what looked like plastic and paper recycling in her hand. For an older woman she had no issues hopping on. Sometimes the older women sit side saddle but not this lady. With no words exchanged they headed off up the road.

*The foothills before the big ones.....*



​
To be continued.......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Feb 2022)

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world Part Two

*And yet another world......*



I set off again too, a short, steep climb, one long descent and then the serious climbing started. Once again the countryside had changed. The blue, vague mountains were no more, instead I had green, smooth but rolling ones. In such a short distance everything had changed again. I was no longer on top of the world but it felt like I was getting there.

*Now the foothills are gone and their big brothers and sisters are here*


I surprised myself when I realised that I was actually enjoying the climbing. Normally, at best, I tolerate it, taking my pleasure in the views on offer but today was different. With such a quiet road I could pretty much use the whole width, the zig zagging giving me more perspectives and a distinct feeling of being king of the road. And again because everything was so still whenever there were trees there were birds chirping and singing. I lost quite a bit of time as two birds seemed to carry on a musical conversation between two trees. 

*I was starting to realise that I was in a special place.....*


There were many barriers of steel or old concrete where I could stop and I made use of a lot. I was in no rush and the countryside was changing again to steeper slopes and lots of vegetation. Because there was so little traffic it seemed that every second driver was honking or waving in support. 
It was incredibly pleasant.

*The birds sang to me as I walked along this road trying to take it all in. If I stayed a week I don't think I'd have succeeded*.





*Epic*






*Conqueror of mountains!*


Stopped on the roadside trying to photograph some colourful buds two motorbike/scooters pulled up behind me and four young women hopped off to have a chat. A chat. Not an interrogation. A question was asked, the answer listened to and the next question followed on from that. The most chatty was speaking too fast for me and her friends seemed to enjoy the fact that I had to keep telling her to slow down. I was amused to be asked if I wasn't scared. I'd imagine most groups of four young women in Europe would be reluctant to approach a bearded, sweaty guy on the side of a road with almost no traffic having turned around to catch up with him. It was a very pleasant experience, interesting and fun and I was so, so happy to have my Español.

*The locals staring at the Gringo*








*There were loads of valleys like this running in all kinds of directions*







*On a day like today Roccado deserves to be seen. He gets me to all these places*








*No words*



​To be continued.......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman


Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Feb 2022)

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world Part Three

*Some trees are just special*


I continued on and stopped at a roadside fruit seller to buy a couple of bananas. I wanted oranges too but she had none. She didn't want to take any money from me, something that didn't sit right, outright refused to accept the 2k note I proffered but reluctantly accepted the 1k in coins. I told her she wasn't helping me by reducing the weight on the bike

*Sometimes they have a tree buddy. What you don't get in this picture is that there are a pair of birds, one in each tree, calling out to each other. There seems to be a bird conversation taking place and I get to hear it all because there is hardly a soul around. This was a special place*


A little later I had the opposite experience, stopping to buy a couple of oranges and was charged 2k - a complete rip off. However, I had my heart set on a roadside lunch there not being any options that I knew of along the way.

*Serious climbing means the landscape and its vegetation is changing again*.


I passed the sign for La Union where I was probably going to stay a good 5km from the actual town (and another couple of hundred meters of climbing). A little later I pulled in for lunch - my banana and peanut butter rolls. Delicious! 

*That's my road up there!*


The Touring Gods had kept the steepest part of the ascent for last and I found myself pushing a lot. Spying a view I parked up and took a couple of shots before getting talking to a local. Again, a conversation not an interrogation and fun. It's easy to tell people that you like their country but I think my enthusiasm tends to run away with me. I am fully honest, though, and I'm pretty critical of Colombian food. Sigh. I miss México. 

*This tree caught my eye.....*






*And its colourful buds and flowers*



I continued on up and got pulled over at the edge of town by another chatty man. He told me that the next town had no hotel (I could only find something on Google with no reviews in 4 years) Another chat and an offer for a cheap night in his hotel there on the edge of town. Grateful but wanting to have a look at the town proper I explained my habit of a coffee in the Plaza and continued on.


*From other-worldly back to the familiar of coffee country*







*Looking back on a little settlement I had passed*







*Today's río in both directions. Have I ever mentioned the life that a río brings?*







_*Welcome to La Union, land where people work in the aroma of coffee....*_

*And proof! Coffee drying along the roadside. At least this was off the road. Another house directly on the road had laid a tarp on my side, placed the coffee on it and plonked a section of tree trunk in front as a warning to traffic.*



​
To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Feb 2022)

Day 893 Wednesday, February 23, 2022, Mercaderes to La Union 30km Total KM 16969
Min meters 1147, Max Meters 1727,
Total Climb 871, Total Descent 313
Min Temp 19 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 28

Feeling on top of another world Part Four

*A local poet, I believe*


The Plaza was closed for rebuilding but I got a coffee in a little restaurant. It's a busy town, not small at all, with narrow, steep streets. The Plaza being closed off with big sheets of plastic creates a chaotic air. Heading back out to the hotel I spied another with ground floor access. An enquiry turned up a decent rate and I accepted. I felt bad for the friendly man but his was well on the edge of town. I was in the centre early and I could get a couple of things accomplished - my beard needed a trim badly and I needed some new shorts. 

*The rather dull church, away from the Plaza*


A hot shower and I was ready to explore. 

*On a school*


First off was a beard trim from a chap who was a tad surly and complained about the state of my beard. Lighter, I set off to find some shorts. The cheap, thin nylon ones I am currently using are practically never dry and being so thin I'm thinking that can't be good for my poor ass. I can't find any hiking style shorts or pants so something with thicker material will do. I found some in a shop with two guys looking after me and spied a very light pair of long pants too. As I was leaving the bossman stopped me to have a conversation and was insistent that I needed to try a Colombian peanut snack - great for cycling he told me. He sent one of the young lads off to buy some then presented me with the whole pack! He wanted to welcome me to his country!Such kindness! We had a great chat and again I was so happy with myself for my Spanish. It really has changed the experience of my trip. 




I had another coffee back at the hotel and a very pleasant chat with the barista, Christina, who didn't stop smiling - rare in Colombia.

*These are buggers!*!!


After a very cheap dinner in the hotel I returned to my first coffee place for a chocolate waffle I'd spied earlier. The girls were all busy talking about me and a man who came in knew that I was the Irish guy on the bike! La Union is not a small town! Maybe in another mood I'd be put off by people talking about me and being recognised by complete strangers but I detected no illwill just curiousity. I'll happily accept a little bit of fame.

*Colombian mountain towns - steep, usually bright and lots of motos*


My day started with a bright beaming smile and it ended with one too. 

What a great day! 

*Ludo!!! (Perhaps a different name where you come from). A simple game but a lot of fun. I have never seen such a fancy board! Loved it! No-one to play with!*​







_*The Plaza is being redone. Locals are clearly not happy about the loss of trees*_
*







From the top of those colourful stairs*







*Higgildy piggidly street so typical of these towns. There is nothing, and I mean nothing to make me think "oh, this is s nice place" - except for the people.*





​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewe...&ll=13.088405901606368,-86.12709437518711&z=8
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Feb 2022)

Day 894 Thursday, February 24, 2022, La Union to Arboleda 31km Total KM 17000 (Happy now @IaninSheffield ? )
Min meters 1693, Max Meters 2561,
Total Climb 889, Total Descent 914
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21

The day of the chats amongst the terrorists

I woke up last night at about 3:30 am bright as a button. Much too early to get up I rolled over for another snooze and didn't wake up until after 8am. That's late! I had a simple breakfast, a coffee and packed up to set off. I had to stop and say goodbye to Christina, one of the coffee girls from yesterday. She warned me to be careful that the ELN (National Liberation Army) were active in Nariño, the department (State) I am now in again.

*Climbing out of town. I am so incredibly spoilt with views that this is just meh....... *



I set off climbing out of the town - the Touring Gods were wasting no time today! - and got chatting to a guy on a motorbike - as one does in Colombia while cycling along. Another warning. Apparently something had happened in town last night. Two warnings and I hadn't even left the town!

It wasn't the greatest morning, weatherwise, but at least it was cool. I had no "otherworldly" experience to fire me up for the day like yesterday. Instead a near 800 meter climb. And a climb with few views. The town stretched a long way along the road, buildings blocking out early views. Then trees and vegetation covered them up. Finally cloud and mist obscured the vistas I could see.

Manuel pulled up beside me on his pushbike with abnormally skinny tyres to chat. A pleasant old guy, he didn't stop smiling, telling me what a great chap I was. He wanted to be in a video with me but settled on a selfie. Happy, he set off again. After giving me a warning about terrorists.

*Mi amigo, Manuel*




It's not that I take these things lightly but if I was to give them too much weight then I wouldn't be on this road at all. It's far too quiet. I won't do anything too dumb - I'll avoid travelling after dark, for example, avoid stealth camping - but if I dwell on the danger I'll be miserable.

I passed through San Pedro de Cartago, the small place that the man yesterday told me had no places to stay. It had two hotels! I didn't feel quite so guilty about not returning to his hotel.

_*Cerro de la Jacoba. This I love! A magical, mysterious mountain that is the source of myths and legends dating back centuries. Unfortunately the translation isn't exactly clear but who needs clarity for fables?*_




*




*​

I stopped for a coffee at a little roadside place and had a second. When I went to pay my money was refused. A big bear of a man with a gentle smile simply said "tranquillo" and waved me away. I can't accept that from a little roadside place. We argued (good naturedly) and I put down 3k pesos (a reasonable price) to have 2k returned!
Later, I pulled up in a little settlement to buy a couple of bananas. No charge. This woman absolutely wouldn't take any money, smiling when she told me she couldn't make change.

_*There's never a dull moment! Wild cats!*_
*



*​
How can I worry about terrorists when this is what I experience? That's not to mention all the honks and waves I get along the way. There's so little traffic that it seems just about everyone wants to cheer me along. Or stop for a chat as one man did.

_*If I couldn't control my imagination Mother Nature could have been terrifying - any number of baddies could be hidden in the mist but all that seemed to emerge was friendliness and kindness*_
*



*​
Stopped to take a photo, an older woman walking by stopped for a chat. In working clothes, well worn and soiled with dirt and labour her eyes lit up when I told her where I was from.

Every now and then we meet someone that we want to talk to until we run out of words and she was one of them. So animated, so excited, she seemed to be living every stage of my journey, asking about the other countries. Once again I was so happy to be able to speak this language that turns simple meetings into memorable events. She laid down blessings upon me before we parted and while I've received many, many blessings on my journey and didn't doubt the veracity of any, these were given with such emotion, such meaning that I felt different moving off. A spiritual force field around me, perhaps.

It didn't make the climbing any easier!

_*The rushing water was the most frantic thing in the early part of the day. I certainly wasn't pushing myself, the traffic was light, considerate and often very friendly. *_
*



*​
If I enjoyed yesterday I tolerated today. There was little of interest to see - by Colombian standards. With little to see my motivation lagged. So I stopped and ate one of my peanut butter treats bought for me yesterday by the man in the shop. Stopped on the side of a very quiet road in a volatile area eating snacks given to me as a gift ......... And I'm supposed to worry about terrorists!

_*There's subsidence....... and there's Andean subsidence!*_
*



*​
My destination today was vague. The next town, Buesaco was two climbs away with a long descent in between. With my late start it was looking tricky. There was a place marked on iOverlander but I couldn't be sure it was still open. After the warnings I didn't want to risk riding in the dark. In any case my first goal was to reach the top of the first climb. One climb at a time.

_*I have the temerity, the arrogance , the cockiness to declare that this view is nothing special! Colombia has created a monster!*_
*



*

_*Landslides, dodgy edges and Colombian Magic tape barely register in my consciousness anymore *_
*



*​
To be continued.......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/page-81


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Feb 2022)

Day 894 Thursday, February 24, 2022, La Union to Arboleda 31km Total KM 17000 (Happy now @IaninSheffield ? )
Min meters 1693, Max Meters 2561,
Total Climb 889, Total Descent 914
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21

The day of the chats amongst the terrorists Part Two

_*Despite the warnings I received early in the day the road itself represented the greatest danger to me*_


_*






Colombian Magic Tape does wonderful things, here holding back an entire hill *_
*



*​
Eventually I did summit to a sky that was threatening rain and a pretty hefty wind. As is the way here, there tends to be a settlement of sorts at the top and bottom so I pulled into a little bakery for a coffee. I had been looking forward to a picnic but even after climbing I was cold. Sitting on the roadside eating suddenly looked less attractive.

_*Cheap, functional and bright! I loved it!*_
*



*​
I ordered a coffee from a grumpy lady who asked for money as soon as it was served. This has never happened to me in Colombia! Even when I knew that was all I was having and wanted to pay. I also wanted a bite to eat and asked about the different breads looking for something savoury. A man then stepped in and started pointing out what was sweet and savoury - and getting them all wrong. I drank my coffee and ate my bread and went to pay. He was in charge of money while she told him the price - 3100 pesos. I proffered a 10k note and got 9500 in change. I handed it back and explained he'd made a mistake that this was almost what I had given him. Clearly thinking I was a smart ass he counted it all back to me - 9500 pesos. "From 10k?", I asked. "Sí" he said angrily so I took my change and went outside.

_*As attractive as the view is, and as quiet as the road is, I really can't afford to take my eyes off the road for too long*_
*



*​
I donned my rain jacket for the descent and set off. There would have been some epic views but a mist was blowing and I could see nothing. That may not have been a bad thing - the road was treacherous with many landslides, some of them permanent fixtures, and lots of subsidence and potholes - a distraction may have been dangerous. As I dropped lower the temperature started to rise and a few patches of blue started to appear above me. I slowed right down then stopped and enjoyed a ciggie basking in the freedom to be able to stop and wait for the weather to improve.

Ha Dumbass!

The big drops started to fall. I set off again reminding myself (once again!) that my weather forecasting skills are as good as my navigational skills and based entirely on dumb luck!

_*I think most people would look at that sky and think "Uh oh!". But not me! I take it as a sign to stop and wait for it to pass....... And it does ...... right over me! *_
*



*​

The rain picked up and I pulled in under a tree that seemed to offer some shelter. It didn't so I donned my rain trousers and set off again. Then the rain got heavier and I started to get cold. I got excited at the sight of a sheltered bus stop but it was full of motorbikers. I continued on. Then the rain lightened then stopped altogether. Soon I was cycling in dry country. Still cold, though.

_*My notes tell me that the views were nothing special. I'm looking at these now for the first time in over 9 months and I don't know what I was thinking! The thing is with these views that they are felt as well as seen. *_
*



*​
I approached the small settlement that had my iOverlander stop and passed through. There on the outskirts I found it but it looked closed. Uh oh. So far as I knew there was nowhere to stay until the next town about 700 meters up. And I had about two hours of daylight and changeable weather. I wasn't going to give up without a fight!

_*Mountain towns. To me they seem like tough places to live. And that's with roads (such as they are), the internal combustion engine and electricity. What were they like 100 years ago? And how hard must it be to work those sloping fields?*_
*



*​
I started calling out and a voice answered. Soon enough an older woman showed up and we had a little chat. Her daughter was the boss so we waited for her. I saw her eyes when they landed on the bike and knew I had no more problems!

_*There's a refreshing, life giving fury to the water in these parts*_
*



*​
I got a room, more expensive than expected but still reasonable, in a separate building, met the dog, her son (who was amazed by the bike and even more amazed by the map of my journey - thanks Netman) her aunt and her mother returned with three big oranges for me.

_*A teeny tiny settlement on the way down. I have tremendous respect for the effort and vision behind these displays*_
*



*​
I was home and not a terrorist in sight.

_*Sweepìng down out of the rain and into the sun*_
*



*​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Feb 2022)

Day 894 Thursday, February 24, 2022, La Union to Arboleda 31km Total KM 17000 (Happy now @IaninSheffield ? )
Min meters 1693, Max Meters 2561,
Total Climb 889, Total Descent 914
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 30 Ave Temp 21

The day of the chats amongst the terrorists - The Towns along the way


_*These scattered settlements barely feature on a map but there's always a church*_
_*







Another roadside church....... 






Forgive me but I couldn't not wonder how they managed to conduct funerals up to this church







In Europe the local council would get a fine for using non-standard colours to mark the side of the road..... but this is Colombia!*_​_*



*_
_*


San Pedro de Cartago. It's not a busy place, not a big place, it doesn't appear very prosperous and yet........ You'll see Roccado parked up in the background as I went off to explore with no qualms*_​_*



*_
_*


The steps up to the church (taken from the door). These "step paintings" impress me so much. I can't imagine the vision required to create them*_​_*



*_
_*

The church - not quite as "whole" as we might think at first glance. A temporary roof over the congregation and a more permanent one over the altar but with open sky between the two!*_​_*



*_
_*

San Pedro de Cartago: Maybe to some eyes this looks tacky, or neglected or over-reaching but for a small village along a dead road it speaks of optimism, of energy, of defiance. On a wet, gloomy day it's a welcome blast of vivid colour that cheered this traveller's soul. *_​_*



*_
_*

Knitting a social life for an inclusive city. Perhaps the use of "city" for a roadside village hints at some kind of delusion but it's rare that this stranger feels anything but welcome in these places.






San Pedro de Cartago is not big ..... but it has two Plazas*_​*



*
​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2022)

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever!

Last night had been very pleasant. I had a comfortable room on the ground floor, Roccado outside under a roof. And several generations of women looking after me. Abuela (Grandma) offered me coffee while I was already boiling water. A plate of chips arrived soon after. Then a visit to check out my stove as I cooked up a simple dinner. Lots of oohs and ahs. Of four dogs I got to meet three. All rescued from the street, two quite timid but full of energy, one a big, floppy baby. Reading my book after a warm shower with one hand on a dog's head. Bliss!
Later I was joined by the woman of the house for a chat and a smoke as I sat outside.
(Months later as I was replaying this wonderful road in my mind and recalling some of the people that I met I realised that her pointed references to her ex-husband and the loneliness of being single in such a remote area was quite probably an invitation of a different kind. Ha! Dumbass! I was just happy that I could keep a conversation of sorts going in Spanish!)

_*It didn't start off epicly but this was going to be one of my greatest days on a bike. And this was considered to be good weather! :-)*_


*




*​
To keep my options open I planned on an early departure and after a good night's sleep and a 6 am wake-up the rain put the kibosh on that. I still got up and made a breakfast of coffee, oatmeal and oranges on the little terrace outside my room. I had some more climbing to do and based on a picture hanging on the wall of the hotel in La Union that was somewhere along this road I reckoned I was in for some spectacular views. I saw no point in rushing off into gloom, rain, mist and low cloud. I drank coffee and read my book. Abuela was over to offer breakfast - a bike tourist never refuses a second breakfast - and soon scrambled eggs, a delicious cheese and potato arepa and a coffee appeared on my table. More bliss!

_*A ramshackle viewing platform along the road in the middle of nowhere! And what a view!*_
*



*​
The rain stopped and a few bright spots behind the clouds suggested optimism. I packed up and set off.

I had a few kms of a downhill to complete and then, according to Abuela, a long, tough climb to get to Buesaco, the next town along. She used her hand to indicate the steepness. Very animated! It wasn't far - 20km- which gave me the option of continuing on to the next small village although accommodation there was an unknown quantity.

_*A patch of blue!!!! *_
*



*​
Like yesterday, landslides, or the remains of them, made the road interesting. As did the subsidence. Passing through a little settlement I stopped to photograph the street art. Asking three men having a chat where a church featured in a mural was one if them walked me back up the road to the correct street. When I returned to the bike I joked about the ad not matching the reality and we all had a laugh.

_*Not the greatest photo ever taken but it does demonstarate the sheer variety of the vegetation that is filling my world near and far and those electric wires demonstrate the angle of the mountain!*_
*



*​
I rolled on down. There's a character to the landscape that took me a while to put my finger on. It seemed very wild. Rugged definitely, but wild in the sense of being alive and unpredictable. I had the sense that it was just sleeping and that what I saw just happened to be the "resting pose". It wouldn't have surprised me if the country started to move and rearrange itself. That kind of wild. I was captivated.

_*That's where I'm going! The views are starting to open up *_
*



*

_*A few ramschakle homes perched on the edge of the hillside. And a broken down van pushing traffic on my side of the road into the other lane.... on a bend!*_
*



*

_*A day that starts of with a descent is a pretty good day. Look at all that vegetation!*_
*



*


_*A village spread along the edge of the road and the mountain. Too small and insignificant to feature on any maps*_
*



*

_*This! This is one of my favourite photographs of all time! I was stopped a tad awestruck at the immense scale all around me in almost silence, only the wind and the odd bird when I noticed the brownish mountain in front and what appeared to be a road about four fifths of the way up. Completely lacking a sense of direction I looked up Osmand and confirmed that I'd be taking that road. Something has changed in me because the time was such an undertaking would have me crying. Today? I think I could have strapped on some feathers and flown up! *_
*



*​
One scene in particular, showed the wildness with a relatively tiny cultivated area and for some reason it highlighted the difficulty of trying to tame the land. Wild.

_*If you look left of the river some cultivated areas can be made out on the hillsides, some with ridiculous slopes. I spent a long time trying to imagine just how hard it is to work that land. Then, to the right of the river are three trees on a gentle slope that just have to have a story. They captivated me and were companions as I wandered along the road. Then there's the impact of that little río. So much in one little photo*_
*



*​
To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2022)

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Part Two

_*Even the weather started to cooperate as I approached the bottom*_


*




*​
I parked the bike and spent long minutes walking the road soaking the views up. Despite the fact that I was on a road and could see other roads in the distance as well as houses and occasional expanses of polythene there was so little traffic that I found it easy to convince myself that had this country all to myself. A glorious feeling and one that tickles my explorer itch. It was special.

_*I could not get enough of this scene. It seemed like whenever I looked again I saw something I had missed before. *_
*



*​
Not long later the epic landscape laid on a special treat for me. Up ahead I could see a mountain standing out from the others and four firths of the way up that mountain was my road! It was a long, long way away and seemed so high ....... A wonderful, exciting sight!

_*That brownish mountain dead centre was going to be the highpoint (in every sense of the words) today*_
*



*​

I still had a bit to go before I hit that climb and the scenery was just stunning as I weaved along a river valley. So many greens!

_*A little bit closer to the mysterious trees.....*_
*



*


_*Even without the views the road was interesting with its own cliffs and vegetation*_
*



*

_*Here the road is about to enter a tunnel of trees. And I have this all to myself!*_
*



*

_*Up close I really started to feel that these weren't inanimate mountains but still, slumbering giants. I wouldn't have been surprised if they started to move....... *_
*



*

_*As well as the epic, grand scale vistas there were interesting things on a much smaller scale. Here, colourful, vibrant plants growing out of bare rock*_
*



*


_*The road ahead..... I'll be going under that white building then later under that big boulder at the top!*_
*



*


_*The río Juanambu which created this valley and would be my travel companion for a while*_
*



*​
To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2022)

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Part Three

At about 10:30 I came to an impressive bridge spanning a noisy río. From here on it was all up. On the far side of the bridge was a shrine to the Virgin Mary and more plaques giving thanks for favours received.

_*The bridge..... and my road way, way up there! Ordinarily, I'd pish my pants ...... but not today! *_


*




*

_*The grotto on the far side of the bridge*_
*



*​

The gradient was surprisingly gentle and I surprised myself at the progress that I made. I was stopping for views, not rests. And the views were pretty darn impressive. For a substantial distance my road looped back above me, too steep to see properly. On a quiet road with lots of places to stop and no shortage of reasons to stop I was in my element.

_*Looking across the valley*_
*



*

_*Looking back and across after gaining some altitude. I felt great and stopped often. This was special country and I didn want to forget a thing*_
*



*

_*You can see my road above and to the left. There was practically no traffic so I had this all to myself*_
*



*

_*Looking back..... Always look back! *_
*



*

_*A Panoramic shot!*_
*



*


_*The all-conquering Roccado!*_
*



*​
It's always very satisfying for me to look back and down on the road I've travelled to get to where I am. Today, though, I had an extra gift - I got to look down at the speck of a bridge that was so impressive at ground level. That was a thrill! Little did I know that the Touring Gods weren't finished with me yet!

_*I thought the bridge was impressive the first time I saw it. But from up here? Something I don't think I will ever forget!*_
*



*

_*If the scale wasn't enough to impress me the colours were amazing too!*_
*



*​

To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2022)

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Part Four


A little later I had the wonderful view of the río and two levels of my road contrasted against an amazing, wild, vivid landscape. And still the Gods weren't finished with me!

_*My road! All mine! *_



I stopped on a bend for a bite to eat and to soak up the view. More of that peanut butter bar bought for me and an orange against an amazing backdrop and I chatted to two workmen tasked with clearing little rockfalls from the road. They had brushes and shovels and a motorbike.

_*Today's entertainment brought to you by Melkocha!*_
*




*​

Then off up again. I changed direction (what I now realise was following the curve of the mountain) and there off to my left, way, way off and way, way down was the road I was on when I first saw this mountain standing out. My heart soared. There's no other word for it. It was so exciting to look back at what seemed like a mammoth distance and a dizzying elevation difference and realise that I'd done it all on my trusty bike. I've had similar experiences before, looking back from on high but never like this. For one thing, I had seen the high road long, long before I climbed it. For another the sorrounding country was just stunning.

One of the most satisfying moments on my bike.

_*What an amazing place! *_
*



*​
I kept climbing and kept looking over, always rising higher compared to the río. Then, as I followed the curve of the mountain my view slowly changed again. I was now looking at the other side of a steep valley - and it was steep! I was on the right hand side and very glad because the left hand side had a sheer drop of a couple of hundred meters and often not much more than a kerb to ward off traffic.

Gradually vegetation took over and houses so the view became less and less. It didn't matter. After earlier only the most amazing sights would have made an impression. Near Buesaco but still with meters to climb it started to rain. Spying a large, polythene covered frame beside a house I pulled in. There was no-one to ask permission of so I waited out the rain by having a picnic and reading my book.

_*Way off in the distance on the left is the road I travelled in on, where I first saw the mountain (and the road) I was now on. There are brown "splashes" where landslides passed over the road and down. This was such a moment of intense satisfaction*_
*



*​
I met fewer people today but still received lots of encouragement. A man and presumably his son slowed down to pass me and both waved enthusiastically. Stopped, a little fella was walking down the road with a little puppy. He was happy to say hello to me but became antsy when the puppy started playing with my leg. Picking up the puppy as only a small person can - akwardly - I was amused to see the resignation in the puppy's eyes.


I set off again in the dry, climbed the last bit into town and went looking for a hotel. I found one without crazy steep stairs, checked in and had a cold, mountain cold, shower. Then out to explore. In rain!


I could have continued on to the next village - in truth the town doesn't look particularly interesting - but no. My experience today was special. It deserves the chance to sink into my consciousness so that I'll always have it.


Colombia. She did it again!

_*One of the last "open" views. You can already see that the landscape was changing with vegetation increasing*_
*



*​
Post Script
Without having had a look at any photos for 9 months plus and not being able to read my notes I can affirm that the taking of a short day to let the memories bed in worked. This day is seared in my memory.

Another thing that strikes me now months and months later. With no real plan or schedule I could well have pushed on through yesterday and not given this stretch a day to itself. I had no idea what was waiting for me. In a rush I can't imagine that it would have been as special as it was. Without too much of a deadline I can really let the special days be slow days.

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2022)

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... The Towns Along the Way

_*It might be small and not appear on any map but they do make an effort at making an impression*_
_*







This mural inspired me to ask some friendly locals for directions to the church......






I got my own personal escort to the right street but.....*_​_*



*_
_*

The church didn't quite live up to its billing!






I suppose higgeldy piggeldy would be appropriate......






Higgeldy Piggeldy it may be but this is the view.......*_
*



*​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Feb 2022)

Day 895 Friday, February 25, 2022, Arboleda to Buesaco 20 km Total KM 17020
Min meters 1359, Max Meters 1976,
Total Climb 653, Total Descent 372
Min Temp 22 Max Temp 38 Ave Temp 29

One of the most satisfying bike rides ...... Ever! Buesaco

I took most of these phots on arrival in Buesaco while looking for a place to stay. After I had checked in the heavens opened and it rained for most of the night. It didn't look great on my first pass and was less inspiring in the rain!

_*The most unusual Plaza. Unusual because there wasn't a single coffee vendor! In fact no vendors of anything! Most unusual!*_​_*





*_
_*

In fairness, the houses made an attempt to brighten the place up and one of the characteristics of these mountain towns is the view to the mountains*_​_*



*_
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_*
Building standards can be ..... flexible in this part of the world. *_​_*



*_
_*


The one bright point of the town that showed a bit of care and pride was this little park. Unfortunately it was raining when I tried to explore it properly*_​_*



*_
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I find it amazing how the edges of these towns just merge with the wildness of the landscape*_​_*



*_
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*_​_*The inside of the "rocket" church. Pleasantly simple



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Windows? Doors? They're for the fancy people! Mountain people have no truck with such frippery!*_​_*



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The "Rocket" church*_​_*



*_
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The towns can seem so temporary and incomplete in comparison to the mountains around them. *_​_*



*_
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Peace has the face of Justice and the colour of Hope*_​*



*



See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Feb 2022)

Day 896 Saturday, February 26, 2022, Buesaco to Pasto 41 km Total KM 17061
Min meters 1972, Max Meters 2900,
Total Climb 1207, Total Descent 601
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 22

The day of the downright weird conversations

One of the things I most enjoy about this travelogue is sitting down to write it. Not all the time, but most of the time. The ideal scenario is with a coffee in a Plaza. I was bursting to sit down yesterday and look at my photos and start getting it all down on paper but Buesaco conspired against me. The Plaza was nothing but a modern, small open space in front of the church with no vendors of any form. Besides, it was raining. A bakery was my next option but there were none with seating to the front where I could sit and watch the town. The one I did select had a sour, grumpy waitress and - shock of all shocks! - terrible coffee!

I sorted my photos then moved to another. More bad coffee!

In truth, Buesaco was a disappointment in just about every department. It was raining and no place looks good in the rain. Dinner was probably one of the worst I've had anywhere with another grumpy woman and the hotel wifi didn't work for ages and when it did, after badgering the poor guy on reception I couldn't upload any photos to here. However, nothing was taking away from my mountain road today!

As it turned out, I had just gone to the wrong place for coffee yesterday! Up at 6:30 I packed up and popped outside. Rain. Light rain, but rain nonetheless. And mist. Lots of impenetrable mist. I wasn't too worried about it. I'd be going through (and up) mountains and wasn't expecting any open or wide views. I set off having munched on my super duper peanut snack (more bought last night!) but coffeeless. Seeing a different, small place I pulled up for coffee. A place as basic as they come with five women working busily in a space big enough for one their coffee was from heaven and washed down two tasty, crispy empanadas of seasoned rice. They used seasoning! The craic and life flowing between the women was a welcome blast of colour on a damp, grey morning. For me, anyway, maybe not the banana delivery man (what a job title!) who was unceremoniously rushed out of their tiny store after making his delivery!

I set off in good spirits

_*Fog, mist and rain were going to be features of my day - right from the get go*_


*




*​
I was right. The weather wasn't going to impact too many views. And the road surface, when it existed, demanded lots of attention. I'm heading for Pasto (again!), about 40km away (with a lot of climbing) and had a horrible thought that the road might be as bad the whole way. It wasn't but was unreliable enough to be interesting!

_*There's something about being above the clouds that gives me a thrill*_
*



*​

It was pleasant enough cycling. I discarded my rain jacket once the climbing started because I was just too warm. The rain petered out a little later. Maybe that's the trick - be dominant and not be cowed by Mother Nature.

_*Mind you, there's something about the roads that give me a thrill too!*_
*



*​
The way I figured it I had a 7-800 meter climb which would bring me close to 3000 meters. A small town after 13km would be an ideal break point.

As I climbed slowly, but steadily, I thought about how glad I was that I hadn't tried to push on last night. Villa Moreno would have been the target although accommodation was an unknown quantity. It would have been absolutely miserable in the rain that fell all afternoon and night.

_*Even when the road wasn't falling off the cliff it still wasn't great*_
*



*​
I started to think that I'm really not much of a bike tourist. I've recently finished Barbra Savage's account of a round the world bike tour with her husband in the early 80's. (Miles from Nowhere). It's a great book full of laughs and pain, fear and some loathing. (I put off reading it for years because she was killed in a cycling accident (at home) just before the book was published). They had some horrendous experiences with weather that had me curling up as I read but kept on going.

_*Interesting, but not terribly inspiring. But then again the last few days have been pretty special*_
*



*​
But as I cycled I realised that the whole tenor of this trip has changed. I might be slow and tend to wussery but I'm making good use of the time that I have (unexpectedly) been given. For the past several months, and certainly since I entered Colombia, there has been little rush, few deadlines and just no need to get to somewhere else regardless of the weather.

_*Some of the ríos today were ferocious!*_
*



*​
Stopped at the side of the road listening to the sound of a small waterfall beside me - so relaxing, it tinkled and giggled - a man pulled up on a motorbike.
"Where are you from?", was the opening salvo, followed up by where are you going today?
He didn't like my answer, Pasto (truthfully, neither did I) and, for the first time that I can recall, told me I wouldn't make it. Not today.
Suddenly concerned, I asked why not picturing landslides, washed out roads (I'd had both already) or even terrorist activity.
"Too far", was his brief answer.
"It's only 30km?", I answered doubtfully (it wouldn't be the first time I casually mixed up distances or climbing in my head).
"Further", he said.
"How much further?", I asked, reaching for my phone and Osmand.
He didn't reply, just again stated baldly that I'd never make it.
29.2 km from my current position according to Osmand. I relaxed.
What followed was one of the most bizarre, negative conversations I've ever had on the side of the road - or in most other places too!

I had too much gear. I explained that I was traveling in different places, needed it and had used it all.
I didn't need food or a stove. Ehm, yes I do! Not around here but in other places.
My dynamo was clever (dynamos are very, very rare here) but I didn't need it.
The tyre pressure was wrong. He could tell by looking, apparently.
And on and on.
Pasto was full of thieves. They were ALL thieves. I'd be robbed as soon as I arrived. I told him it would be my third visit.
I could have crossed into Ecuador in December. The border opened in December. Yes, after I had left.
And on and on.
Where did I stay last night? How much did I pay?
When he started manhandling the bike without any kind of permission I started to get really annoyed.

Some people just fire questions, some engage, some look wistful (and jealous) but I have never faced such a sustained disagreement and negative commentary. Just when I had decided that he had ruined my musical waterfall bliss and was about to climb aboard, he got on his motorbike and roared off without so much as a goodbye. I was bemused. And frankly, glad he was gone.

_*A brief bit of sun can make everything seem better!*_
*



*​
Onwards and upwards I went and finally arrived in the little, roadside town of Villa Moreno. These little roadside places are generally not particularly interesting and little more than a chance for drivers to get fuel for themselves or the car. But this little place charmed me.

_*Sometimes the sun worked with the mist to make sparkles*_
*



*​
I pulled off to find the Plaza and the little, bright church. The Plaza's practical rather than pretty but the church had soul. And the murals!! Fantastic!

Apparently the local indigenous group marked their territory with rock carvings and paintings. These are still in existence on different properties and some of them have been recreated on people's houses. I loved it!

_*There is nearly always some interesting vegetation, especially in the mountains*_
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*​
Locals smiled and said hello. One woman walked past Roccado parked up in front of the church as I had a smoke on the Plaza and I watched her slow down and give him the once over. Then another, more considered look. Then her face opened in the most spectacular smile - I could see her eyes sparkling from way away. She walked on, constantly turning back for another glance, looking over at me she waved like a child does at an airplane if told that Santa is on board and continued on to a shop on the corner and was animatedly talking to three older folks, constantly pointing back at Roccado.

I stopped for breakfast at a bakery and had cheerful, friendly service and one of the best breakfasts so far. In a local shop buying water a young fella seeing that all I needed was water did his best to get me processed quickly but a woman was in charge of the money and would not be rushed.

_*Another feature of the mountains are the many, many waterfalls. Often unseen they can be heard from far away*_
*



*​

To be continued........

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Feb 2022)

Day 896 Saturday, February 26, 2022, Buesaco to Pasto 41 km Total KM 17061
Min meters 1972, Max Meters 2900,
Total Climb 1207, Total Descent 601
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 22

The day of the downright weird conversations Part Two


Leaving town I was hailed from a parked car by an older lady who was one of four older people presumably out for a drive. Another bizarre conversation;

"Where are you from?" is normal.
"Do you know what department (state) you're in?", was a little unusual. I did. (Nariño)
"What's the name of the town you're in?", was just going into bizarro territory. Now, I can struggle to remember where I am, where I'm going and from where at the best of times, but for silly, sentimental reasons I knew where I was. Another day I wouldn't have a clue.
Answering "Villa Moreno" pleased her so she imparted some wisdom. The Venezuelans. They'd rob me. She mimed slitting her throat. She pointed to her eyes and said it was clear if you looked at them that they were dangerous.

This I didn't like. At all.
I told her that I'd met many Venezuelans without problem. They were in a terrible situation.
I was thinking of the family I'd met at the campground. He a university professor. A daughter a lawyer, another an engineer. No work or no pay. Electricity a few hours a week. Running water for an hour or two every second day. In a country with the largest oil reserves on the planet. If things were that hard for them how difficult must it be for the less fortunate.

Another bizarre conversation. I set off up the mountain.

_*The land became more tame as I went along*_


*




*​
My final odd conversation was with another motorcyclist who pulled up as I was having a rest. He put me on edge from the get go as he parked his bike in such a way as to make my exit more difficult. I was thinking of all the bad stories that started "and then this guy on a motorbike ......" and was conscious of the lack of traffic on the road.

_*It's not the best photo but my old friends, the silver trees, started to make a reappearance. For some reason these always make me feel good. They're familiar. *_
*



*​
The thing was I couldn't understand a word he said. Not a word. He was speaking Spanish for sure but really, really fast. I gave my usual explanation that I'm trying to learn Spanish and that if he could speak slower it would help a lot. He looked like I'd asked him if I could bed his mother and his sister and eat his dog afterwards and kept on repeating a sentence at breakneck speed. I picked out a word that seemed key and explained that I didn't understand it. His response was to repeat the word again and again and again. Faster and louder and angrier.

I wished him a good journey, climbed on and did my fastest speed uphill in a long time.

_*This scene can help explain why there are so many landslides on these roads*_
*



*​
I didn't want to go to Pasto again - for the third time - but I have little choice. I sure as hell wasn't going to back in the way I had left with Robert de Niro warning me how unsafe it was! I'm thinking of redoing the loop to Sandona as a way of avoiding the Pan-American and possibly another one to Ipiales, otherwise it'll be my third time on that road.

Ha! Look at Dumbass! _Complaining_ at the prospect of covering the same stretch of road...... in Colombia! The PanAmerican, no less, a road that people dream of riding and cocky bike tourist turns his nose up at it!

I had booked nothing as if I could, I'd grab something on the edge of town and save myself entering the city proper. An outside option was to camp in a National Park but according to Google (!) there was no mention of camping in the last five years. I hit 2900 meters and started to roll down.

_*And a reminder to always be on alert*_
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*​
At first I thought that it was going to rain but it was only Mother Nature admonishing me for thinking I could intimidate her.

The road was pretty poor at times so I was slow and careful. Views were limited but the vegetation has changed. I saw trees and shades of colour that I don't recall seeing before as well as a sign telling me I'm in bear country! And me with a pile of sweet peanut treats in both front panniers! One bend in particular captivated me and lured me off the bike to walk up and down along it, agog. There was a density to the vegetation that was almost overwhelming but matched by the sheer diversity of the plants. It seemed like there was one of everything, a kind of "Noah's Ark" for plants. It doesn't really show up in the photos but a few orange leafed trees really brought a vitality to everything that was quite wonderful. The Bountiful Bend I christened it.

_*Wild cats the other day and now I'm in Oso country! For some reason a bear is a problem but Oso? Oso is curious, friendly and probably the inspiration for the original teddy bear. *_
*



*​
I stopped at (what I thought was) the park but was put off staying by a strong stench of sewage. I continued on. I came to the roundabout where I had set off north all that time ago and took a new (to me exit) approaching Pasto from a, hopefully, safer angle. I passed the actual Park and pulled up. At least this place looked like a park and didn't have piles of rubbish dumped at the gate. Unfortunately, no-one was around to ask about camping and the notice board had no information. To top it off there was a steep road running downhill and around a bend. If I went down there, getting back up would be tricky. I continued on.

_*Approaching the Bountiful Bend. *_
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_*In the mist it was hard to take a good photo of Noah's collection of plants but this bend captivated me for far too long. *_
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_*Sometimes the mist and light could weave some magic.....*_
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_*This was a better section of the road *_
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_*Seeing Pasto through fresh eyes on a whole new approach*_
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Approaching Pasto from a whole new angle was like approaching a bright, modern, wealthy city. I passed one hotel - full - and continued on passing many others that were clearly out of my price range. Once close to the centre I went for the place I stayed in the last time. Cheap, hot water, decent Wifi and parking for Roccado.
Home! And for a change it's somewhere I'm very familiar with!

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Feb 2022)

Day 896 Saturday, February 26, 2022, Buesaco to Pasto 41 km Total KM 17061
Min meters 1972, Max Meters 2900,
Total Climb 1207, Total Descent 601
Min Temp 16 Max Temp 33 Ave Temp 22

The day of the downright weird conversations The Towns Along the Way

In truth there was only one town - Villa Moreno and I found it friendly and charming.

_*There was something about the church, the simplicity combined with the bright colours that I enjoyed*_


*




*



_*The Plaza/Park that seemed to be functional over pretty yet still managed to be charming on a dull day*_
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_*Never mind the politics, look at that art!*_
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_*Now it's getting interesting.....*_
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The original, indigenous inhabitants marked their territory with rock paintings and carvings. Apparently these still exist but are reproduced on the walls of the houses of the town







_*The text gives the (modern) address of the stone*_
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_*This one I really liked, the missing plaster just adding authenticity*_
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_*Other buildings celebrated other aspects of the indigenous culture, this one food. *_
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_*The cumulative effect of all this art in such a relatively small place was quite profound. *_
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_*This is a "folding" wall in my breakfast spot. One of the friendliest places and best breakfasts I've encountered in a while*_
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*​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Feb 2022)

Day 897 Sunday, February 27, 2022, Resty, Rainy day Pasto 0 km Total KM 17061 

_*I'll say one thing for Pasto - it has some really good street art! Women, especially indigenous women, feature prominently*_
*




*​
Now that I was back in familiar territory I had another decision to make. Head to Ipiales the main road or do the Sandona loop again. I had really enjoyed the Sandona loop (going the opposite direction) even in pretty crappy weather and I really fancied doing it again. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't cooperating today. In fact, it was downright hostile with rain lashing from on high. Either road wasn't going to be pleasant so I decided to take a day off and rebooked my room. 

_*A huge difference on this trip has been pedestrian infrastructure in urban areas. In the US infrastructure isn't just pedestrian unfriendly, it's often absent. Since México there has always been pedestrian infrastructure, although sometimes what I'd term "adventure infrastructure"!*_
_*





There's a reason that babies are carried in slings and not in buggies! *_
*



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Interestingly, my perspective of Pasto was a little different after my very different approach yesterday. The first time I hit Pasto I recalled rough, broken streets and the usual motley collection of buildings in various states of dilapidation. The second time was in the dark after a crazy ride through the night where I was just happy to find any kind of civilisation and the last time I left Pasto I had apparently taken my life in my hands and passed through some pretty dodgy areas. Yesterday, though, I had arrived through the wealthy side - modern buildings, shiny hotels - literally a different world. 

_*A number of shops are painted and "branded" in very original ways. For some reason, Pasto seems to have more than average or maybe it's just that I've ended up spending more time here than other places!*_
*



*​
The rain didn't let me do an awful lot today but I did get out and about a bit. 

_*I really liked this. There's a hardness, an edge to Pasto, even the "nicer" parts of town are a bit away from the centre, but this speaks to a beauty, an aspiration, a gentleness, an attempt to soften the edges*_
*



*



_*Public Service Graffiti - It's not the dog, it's how you train it*_
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*



_*This was an anti-abortion demonstration, one that was taking place all around the country. Perhaps it was the rain, perhaps it was the subject but it wasn't very well supported. The courts had recently made a ruling on abortion making Colombia's abortion laws amongst the most liberal in the world.
While not everywhere, a common display in churches is a series of boards depicting the stages of a foetus from the moment of conception through to birth with the very clear message that abortion at any stage is murder and sinful. *_
*



*


_*Another shopfront. I'm clearly in farming country!*_
*



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I wasn't out and about for too long. I tend to get wet from the bottom up walking the dodgy streets in the rain. In any case, irrespective of the weather I'd be getting out of Pasto tomorrow - there's nothing else to see 


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Feb 2022)

Day 898 Monday, February 28, 2022, Pasto to Sandona 49 km Total KM 17110
Min meters 1709, Max Meters 2581,
Total Climb 743, Total Descent 1467
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 27 Ave Temp 17 /

The Sandona Loop - again!

I was up relatively early and grabbed a coffee and basic breakfast while dithering about my route. The forecast wasn't great and I'm something of a wuss. In the end, I said "Feck it" and took the road to Sandona, the weather forecast being ignored in favour of some brightness behind the dark clouds. Ha! Dumbass! It took less than an hour for the forecast to prevail.

_*Before 8 am and on the edge of Pasto. Going out past the University had the advantage of a decent, if slightly disorienting, cycle path and lots of roadside coffee stops for that last shot of caffeine before I hit the climb *_
*




*


_*Half an hour later and I'm out in the country and that's definitely blue above me! I was facing into a climb but not a feck was given*_
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*


_*Not an hour after leaving Pasto and with steady climbing my weather optimism is being replaced with a cold, foggy reality*_
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*



_*There's a density to the vegetation that is felt. And there always seems to be running water. The mist or fog just adds to the atmosphere*_
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*​
I turned off to explore Genoy which I had barely seen the last time but a roadblock put paid to that. I was cold, damp and in need of coffee and starting to wonder at the wisdom of my decision. The thought did cross my mind to turn back, freewheel back to Pasto and take the main and direct road towards Ipiales but a sense of unfinished business kept me pointing towards Sandona. On I went.


_*This really looks inhospitable and I suppose it is. The last time I was on this stretch it was dark and I was racing to Pasto and this time I couldn't see much more, no matter how slow I went. Despite that, it was incredibly enjoyable. There's a mystery, an atmosphere that works magic on me. The other day it was what I was seeing that thrilled me. Today it was what I was feeling.*_
*



*


_*Rule #1 of bike touring: Nothing ever stays the same! Something about all this wildness and greeeness was speaking to me but I wasn't quite able to pinpoint exactly what it was. I just knew that I enjoyed cycling in it.*_
*



*​
I passed a large, roadside shrine the far side of Genoy which I didn't recall from my race to Pasto but not much later the fog started to lift and I could appreciate far more of the lush, wild, multi-green landscape all around me. This was more like it. I can't put my finger on it but there is a life to this part of the world that is just so ...... alive. Colours seem more vivid. Sounds are natural - there is nearly always the sound of rushing water. There is such a stunning variety of trees and plants, most of them growing wild. I have to work hard to travel here but it just seems so worth the effort.

_*Maybe the weather forecast was wrong.......I see patches of blue! Ha! Dumbass! *_
*



*


_*MultiGreen! There's something about this road. Not the greatest picture but there's just something about it.......*_
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*


_*There is little easy or comfortable about today's cycling (and a whole lot that is uncomfortable) but the rewards, to me, are immense. *_
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*​
I arrived into Florida for noon and fog and mist started rolling in again. By the time I coffeed and was leaving the weather forecast reasserted itself and the rain started to pour. There's rain and there's rain and this was the wet, soaking kind and while I was definitely disappointed to have rain on this road again I couldn't shake the feeling that it seemed appropriate. I was getting the "real" experience, not the "tourist" one. That "real" experience means limited views but an abundance of atmosphere in the form of swirling cloud, shimmering mists and mysterious landscapes fading in and out of vision. Not only are these things seen but that atmosphere is tangible, reaching into my bones. Comfortable? Not in the slightest! But an experience? AbSoLutely!

_*These buses transport everything.........*_
*



*​

To be continued.......


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (28 Feb 2022)

Day 898 Monday, February 28, 2022, Pasto to Sandona 49 km Total KM 17110
Min meters 1709, Max Meters 2581,
Total Climb 743, Total Descent 1467
Min Temp 13 Max Temp 27 Ave Temp 17 /

The Sandona Loop - again! Part Two

_*A strange, "unofficial" shrine with the usual plaques*_
*




*


_*The weather is closing in again but a scene like this has me off the bike and walking up and down because each angle opens up a different view. There's diversity and there's Colombia!*_
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_*I am being incredibly lucky with all the landslides! *_
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*



_*The rain has started and it is far from light. I'm cycling along a road I've already travelled, adding distance and meters (lots and lots of meters) that don't need to be added and trying to understand just why I'm doing it. These things hanging down go a part of the way to answering. A visible sign that I am somewhere different. Not home. I'm exploring. *_
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*



_*Yes, it's wet, foggy and cold. But it's alive! There's the sound of water cascading down the cliff face on my left. It's bloody hard work. It's cold when I stop but so rewarding. There's nothing special about this road that I haven't seen or felt before yet there's everything special about it.*_
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*


_*Despite the gloom there is colour and lots of it! OK, my phone struggles in the gloomy conditions and all the water doesn't help but it's there! *_
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_*There are waterfalls and little ríos raging everywhere it seems. These are more "heavy metal" than classical in tone, not surprising after all the recent rain, yet there's something vital and celebratory to the clashing soundtrack they provide to the day.*_
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_*It's no great picture but the red leaves on this tree bring such a bright, colourful burst of vivid life amongst the rain that I have to stop*_
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_*I might be cold and wet but I'm riding in the clouds. Riding in the clouds! *_
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*​

I had a fair bit of descending to do and in these conditions it could be quite cold so I took my time. Despite the miserable conditions I was really enjoying myself and when I crested a hill and saw Sandona spread out below me I realised that I was actually a bit disappointed that the day was at an end. In fairness, it was quite early, about 2:30 (I had made good time) and I could have continued on a bit but I recalled that the next town along had felt uncomfortable the last time and besides I was in no rush. I also decided to skip the pleasant hostel I stayed in the last time outside Sandona in favour of gorging on grilled meat, lots of grilled meat, in town. 

_*It's hard to credit but, but was disappointed to arrive here! Having struggled up a brutal gradient out of Sandona I knew I had a swift, possibly doggy-chasing descent and the day would be over. I was cold, wet, sore yet sad that the day's ride was over! There's just no pleasing me! *_
*



*​
I rolled into town, up to the hotel from the last time, checked in and had a hot shower. Bliss!

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (1 Mar 2022)

Day 899 Tuesday, March 01, Sandona to Yacuanquer 42 km Total KM 17152
Min meters 1599, Max Meters 2688,
Total Climb 1472, Total Descent 572
Min Temp 12 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 21 

I didn't bother looking at the weather forecast today because there was no need - the sky told me everything that I needed to know. And it was not good. I waited for the rain to stop, grabbed a coffee and some fried dough at the Plaza and had to race back to the room to escape a downpour. I waited for that to stop and then packed up and rolled off. I wasn't out of town when the rain returned. 

I had been racing (and losing to ) the darkness the last time I had been on this stretch and I was pretty disappointed that there was little that I could see through the rain, the mist and the fog. 

Despite not being able to see much at all there was no shortage of excitement today, also due to the weather. Rockfalls and landslides were the order of the day. There was one section of road, perhaps 1 km long, where the road had been filled with little rocks, most about half the size of a football, although some as large as a full size. Given that most of the traffic at that time of the morning was two-wheeled these remained scattered along the road in a bed of quickly dissipating mud as we weaved amongst the obstacles, the locals at a pace that horrified me. I reckoned that an entire section of the hillside beside the road had washed onto it, the rain and flowing water washing the soil away and leaving the rocks. Later, I meet a wall of mud and rocks that I was able to clamber over and later again a higher, deeper blockage that had me waiting in the rain with a long line of traffic for the workmen to clear it. It was an exciting, different kind of cycling but the day left no real impression on me which was a shame because I had thoroughly enjoyed coming this way back in December.

The one thing, though, that was different was the sense of camraderie, the sense that we were all in it together. There was a friendliness mixed in with all the falling rain that was good for the soul. At one particular blockage, negotiated by a group of motorcyclists from the opposite side, the last biker, a young woman, stopped to point me in the right direction, warning me where the mud was deep. Similarly, at a queue waiting my turn to squeeze through a gap or for workmen to clear the whole route someone inevitably approached for a chat. Oncoming traffic was limited to bicycles for the first couple of hours (four and more wheeled traffic being held up behind larger blockages) but when it did arrive, invariably in packs, it was considerate of the cyclist as we both weaved over and back on the muddy, rocky roads. When I was stopped to let them past received many waves, toots and calls of sympathy and support. Chatting to a motorcyclist at one of these enforced stops I learned that these delays are common at this time of the year along these roads.

Remembering that there was accomodation in Yacuanquer, the last town before I rejoined the highway, and that the town had charmed me on my first pass I had decided that this would be my destination - not the longest day by any stretch of the imagination but with a fair whack of climbing. In fact, it turned out to be almost a town too far since I was held up or slowed down so many times by rockfalls and mudslides. 

Perhaps it was the weather, or perhaps my mood but the town was cold and inhospitable in every sense of the words when I arrived - a distinct contrast to the vibe on the road. It took ages to get a coffee at a stall, the man operating it doing a good job of ignoring me for as long as possible, a first, I think, in Colombia, although the lady who returned to work with him was far friendlier. My accommodation over a restaurant was freezing, damp, not very clean and tiny meaning that my wet clothes had no chance to dry. Dinner was Colombian, which is to say bland, flavourless and disappointing. At least I could wrap up warm and have a decent night's sleep.

No photos today! 
You can see the landscape in better weather in this post:
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/t...-just-tell-him-your-plans.254046/post-6614674

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (2 Mar 2022)

Day 900 Wednesday, March 02, Yacuanquer to Ipiales 64 km Total KM 17216

Min meters 1781, Max Meters 2927,

Total Climb 1600, Total Descent 1403

Min Temp 13 Max Temp 27 Ave Temp 19



It was a strange situation this morning. Awake very early after a good, refreshing night's sleep I could get out but couldn't retrieve the bike until the restaurant opened about 8am. I hadn't thought to check this out last night but it wasn't significant as the rain was falling anyway.


If there's one thing I hate, and I mean, really, really HATE about this bike touring thing it's having to don wet clothes in the morning. In a room without windows and a cool temperature everything was still wet. Thinking ahead I put on my merino leggings. I had a long descent ahead of me.


I grabbed a coffee in the Plaza and watched the town come to life with a whimper rather than a bang. This town charmed me on my first pass through a few months ago but in the wet and cold morning it struck a sad, dying chord. I retrieved the bike, packed up, grabbed another coffee and set off, destination unknown.

I had a few options. Down the road was a roadside hotel with a restaurant (where I planned to breakfast), further along was Pedregal which would be my third time staying there. Pedregal was the place where I could get off the highway and take a loop to Ipiales. It was the loop I had thought about taking when heading north from Ipiales but rejected at the last moment - and had a wonderful ride covering old ground. Alternatively, I could stay on the Pan-American down to San Juan and another inhospitable room. If I really pushed myself I could get to Ipiales but that was a lot of climbing, most likely in rain. I'd make up my mind over breakfast.


First up was a 150 meter climb which warmed me up in my wet clothes. The rain threatened but stayed away. Then I was on the Pan American, four split lanes with a wonderful shoulder and all downhill. I donned my raingear for wind protection and set off.


The biggest challenge I had was trying not to undertake slow moving trucks! Instead, I'd bide my time then soar past them in the overtaking lane - what a thrill!


I arrived at my breakfast place and had an excellent breakfast and a think.

The loop would take two days, at least, on a road afflicted with landslides. After yesterday, I had a better understanding of landslides! Any delays would put me under pressure in Ipiales for getting a COVID test prior to the border. Also, on the news the night before there had been an "attack" on some kind of pipeline on that road.

I was feeling strong, feeling good and thought that I could push on to Ipiales. If that wasn't working out I had the backup of San Juan. And that's what I did. I psyched myself up to climb 1500 meters and off I went.

(As I was eating breakfast an email had arrived from RideWithGPS with my February "stats". Normally such things don't interest me but I'd ridden 23 of the 28 days and climbed a huge number of meters. Kilometers in fact! That was a huge boost on a cold, damp morning)


It was still all downhill, past Pedregal, and still down. At the bottom I lost my shoulder, the road reverted to two lanes, pretty poor quality and regular roadworks. I set off upwards and remembered why I didn't enjoy this section. There's a fair bit of roadworks going on, not necessarily on the road but around it, meaning a lot of dumper trucks. There's no shoulder, the edge is rough and with all the recent rain the edge is treacherous. Because of the roadworks traffic tended to arrive in bunches meaning I'd pull off and let it pass then resume in relative peace.

I recalled how much I enjoyed this on the way down and it was pretty clear why - for a start the weather was warm and dry and there was a lot less debris on the other side of the road. And I was freewheeling!


It wasn't fast but I was concentrating on the positives - no rain, at least not beyond a few drops. This was all familiar territory to me and I felt little need (and there were few opportunities) to stop. It's interesting how much time I "lose" taking all my photos normally. (And I wouldn't change a thing!)


Then the rain started. At first light enough to ignore, then heavier so I stopped and redonned my rain jacket. A km later it was off again - I was too warm. Mother Nature upped the ante another km along and I needed all my gear. I was wet (but not cold) in no time. Onwards and upwards.


A couple of Kms below San Juan the rain petered out and I was glad. I'd be tempted to stay if it was raining. I stopped for a decent lunch, basked a little in the sun when it came out, topped up my water, booked a hotel on Booking and headed off. Another 4-500 meters up.


I'd stopped at the friendly restaurant I'd used before, partly because of their decent WiFi. This time there was no sign of the big German Shepherd that had been left by passing Venezuelans but as I was leaving I heard a bark from up above. There, on the roof of the building was the unmistakable face of a big Shepherd! It lightened my heart to see him. The lady boss had been complaining about the fact that he had been left but clearly she didn't take out her frustrations on the poor dog.


More traffic made it trickier and my legs were showing the signs of two days of climbing in cold, wet weather. The sky kept changing, a few raindrops would fall and I'd hold my breath but they never turned into a shower. My spirits were high. I was pleased with myself that Ipiales was now in range and looking forward to a hot shower and a chance to relax before crossing the border. Another country! After a three month delay, that was exciting! Truth be told, I had done very little research on Ecuador other than an outline route to Quito and had booked two nights in the hotel. The second day would give me the time to get my Ecuadorian leg organised.


My hotel had been chosen for its location - an easy exit of the town. Ipiales hadn't impressed me much on my first visit and has a bad reputation. Rather than go through the town I was on the main road to the border and I had a couple of streets to the hotel. If they looked dodgy I'd go back around and approach from the city centre.


And that's when it happened. Less than a km from the hotel. On a road filled with slow moving rush hour traffic a young fella suddenly stepped out - my first instinct was to smile at him - and tried to grab me, simultaneously calling out. I put the foot down and gave him a shove. I was shocked and trying to compute what was going on.

It really is amazing the way our minds work. Parts of my brain were racing, analysing, planning at breakneck speed with a clarity that I can rarely claim.

I was convinced it wasn't serious until two buddies joined in one shoving me so that I hit the road. Then they were on me and I fought back.

That sounds completely dumb. Outnumbered three to one, flat on my back on the road. However, I was still convinced that this wasn't serious. There were two lanes of slow moving traffic - no-one was going to do anything serious with so many witnesses.


One had a plank of wood (at first I thought it was a machete) and another a screwdriver. I caught his wrist so that he couldn't use it. And kicked maniacally, calling out for help. In my head this couldn't be happening so publicly - all I needed was to stall them for a second or two. Then a fourth guy came in swinging kicks and pinning me to the ground. Then they were gone, running up a muddy slope along the road leaving me and Roccado lying in the middle of the lane.

Nobody stopped during the attack or afterwards. That made me angry. I think even a long blast of a horn may have been enough to unsettle them. I was remarkably calm as I picked myself up and a little bit proud of myself - they were gone. Then I realised that my phone was gone from my pocket. That's what the fourth guy had done. I recalled hearing "telefono" during the melee.


Less than a km from the hotel I resumed my ride. There was nothing else to do. Nobody approached me. Nobody even wound down a window. The cars just slowly rolled past me, some people averting their eyes, others staring blankly.


Already my brain was ticking along prioritising what I needed to do. I approached my turnoff cautiously but it looked ok and found the hotel.

I went in, explained what was after happening and asked if I could use a computer. I wanted to log in to my online accounts to change passwords.


And that's when everything started to go wrong.


Home was a stressful place.



Post Script


I wrote that up in Ipiales so it was pretty contemporaneous.


It was a very different experience from the robbery in Guatemala City. There, a gun set the tone and there was no-one else around. This was different (and would affect me differently).


We can tell ourselves that we know what we'd do in certain situations but unless we're trained and have practiced that's little more than pie-in-the-sky thinking.

I can't believe I fought back. It was incredibly dumb, yet, even now, I'm a little bit proud of that. I wouldn't label myself a coward but bravery wouldn't be one of my top ten attributes.

I recall having the thought that whatever they might take from me they were also going to take Colombia from me - and I really didn't want to lose that. It might seem silly and romantic but that was a vivid thought during the struggle.

I'm also a little bit proud of the fact that my calls for help were in Spanish!

I was very angry when they left and turned my ire on the line of traffic, especially a large, white SUV that was slowly trying to manoeuvre around me and Roccado on the road. My yelling included expletives in English as well as Español.


Physically, I had hurt my shoulder, hip and my head, chest and legs had received some kicks. The zip on my Arkel handlebar bag (already struggling) was busted and my trangia, packed in a front pannier, got a bang that makes the two halves tricky to connect but still functional.


Obviously such an event had effects. Thankfully, I was able to focus on the proximity to the border and the fact that I "knew" Ipiales (and hadn't liked it) and was able to isolate the event as being "outside" of Colombia. It hasn't changed my opinion of Colombia at all. And yes, I did sit down and go through that process.


The longer term effects were a tad more sinister.

In my head if something like this happened it would have happened on a quiet road with no-one around. But the reality was so very different. Long lines of slow moving traffic, the usual lots of people along the road - vendors, people waiting for lifts, beggars - was not how I expected it to happen. This is a scene I encounter daily, several times a day, at least, and shaking off the memory has proven to be more difficult. Having a gun pointed at me as in Guatemala is so rare, so "out there" that it was relatively easy to "box away". A young fella stepping out into the road is much more difficult.

No photos again today - now you know why! - but you can see the ladscape is this (and subsequent posts):
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/t...-just-tell-him-your-plans.254046/post-6612619

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (3 Mar 2022)

Day(s) 901-903 Thursday, March 03 - Saturday March 05

Lost Days in Ipiales


Yeah, I'm calling this "lost days" even though they weren't. It sure felt like it though.

After trying to log into my email and Google on a laptop in the hotel with no success I went out to find a phone shop.
The girl looking after me was very kind and efficient. I got a new phone (and a throwaway one as a gift!) and set up with a new SIM and returned to the hotel and the frustration began.

Despite having passwords I was locked out of Google and Hotmail (Outlook) because both detected access from a new device in a new location. I needed my phone to verify access. Dumbass had presumed that alternating the email addresses as recovery emails would be enough. It wasn't.

It might be just me but I found thinking difficult under the circumstances. Thinking and especially remembering. There was definitely an element of shock after the robbery, but not immediately. In the immediate aftermath I was (in my humble opinion) focused, cool and logical. A little later, though, especially after having to recount the tale, remembering passwords was difficult. Then typing them out correctly was difficult too!

I'm not going to go into all the jigs and reels of everything but to say it was stressful would be an understatement. I arrived on Wednesday and left on Sunday. I may write up a post for the general forum on just what is involved and how we can protect ourselves. I thought I had a pretty good grasp on things and had enough back doors to let me back in. Ha! Dumbass!

The other thing is just how invasive the humble mobile phone has become and how powerful our online accounts are.

Osmand, for example, is linked to my Google account. No Google account and I have to download Osmand again and have lost all my favourites, all my settings. And my (years old) bargain subscription.
Apps like Strava, Booking etc. can be linked to Google too (mine weren't, thankfully). No Google and all those are lost too.
My banking app needs my phone to be registered. New phone? Lots of problems.

This wasn't a problem in Guatemala when I "lost" my previous phone because I had my tablet with the same accounts. It was a simple process to register the new phone. This time I didn't have the tablet. I gave it away to a little boy along the way.

If there's one lesson from this it's to have a second device with the same accounts either with us or someone at home where the accounts have been opened before and with the passwords.
Another lesson is to simulate this at home before we leave!

The insidiousness only becomes clear with time. My contacts are all gone. Phone numbers, addresses and email addresses. I don't carry a little black book anymore so I have to search online. A new Facebook account. Even after messaging over and back one of my closest friends was still skeptical as to my identity. It's a common scam - an email from a known address, a crisis situation, a request for money.
My passwords and pin numbers are backed up in my Google account.
All my notes, my Travelogue and all my photos are gone too.
Even things like my YouTube playlists are gone.

To cross the border I needed a vaccine cert or a COVID test, a recent change. Previously I'd have needed both. The vaccine cert I had on my (old) phone and in my Hotmail account. But one was stolen, the other I was locked out of. Also to consider, my time in Colombia was ticking down. If I took too long to get the documents I needed to leave, I may be overstaying my visa!

To recover my Hotmail I had to answer questions such as when and where the account was opened, the name on the account (had I even used my name and date of birth correctly?) previous passwords. I had to provide email addresses and subject headings of recent emails I had sent. And since the account was so old a personal security question (not done anymore).
Slightly frazzled, I made a mess of the first attempt, had to wait 24 hours to try again, the second attempt failing but successful on the third day.

Google was a different story. I couldn't even begin the recovery process caught in a frustrating loop because it only wanted to use my (old) phone despite me having an email from Google to my Hotmail account warning of an attempt to access my account. With my Hotmail account I had access to all my important documents - COVID cert, insurance etc. I parked Google and moved on.

To access my online banking I needed to register the phone with a standalone card scanner. For security I won't go into specifics but I needed to call NL (another wait because of time difference) and was frustrated. The problem was that I needed to use a pin number that I could not recall but that was saved in my Google account - hidden and scrambled. Thankfully, my friend in NL (she clearly knows me so well) had written the number down. Two days of stress sorted in a chat!

Had that not worked, I had left an "emergency" stash with another good friend. Enough to get me to Quito and back to Europe but it would have meant returning to NL directly to sort out the bank issue. Interestingly, he only was satisfied that it was me contacting him after we spoke. He commented that my messages read "oddly". Under high stress my language had changed.

(That's good evidence of my cockiness! My bank account was using a friend's address in NL so that if I needed a new card (as in México) someone I trust can receive it, the pin and send them on to me. A different friend in Ireland had a reserve cash amount in the event of a banking failure that could be used to bail me out of jail, buy plane tickets or be wired to me. Forgetting a rarely used PIN number messed up the former and it took a while to convince the latter that I might be needing the dosh! Oh, if you want to give the Man or Woman upstairs a laugh..... just tell 'em your plans! )

With the bank issue solved and access to my Hotmail I could move on.

Lots of time was wasted in various ways.
For example, to make an international call on my phone (not possible in the hotel and "call cards" were only available for US/Ecuador and Guatemala) took two trips to the network shop - once to buy the appropriate credit package, a second to get a network specific exit code.
I contacted the Irish department of health for a copy of my Digital COVID cert (granted months previously on the strength of my Texan vaccine) while I had no access to Hotmail. Of course, a whole new email address caused problems. Eventually I was promised a copy in 48 hours. Relief? (It never arrived).
Another waste of time was a trip to the Police station to make a report. I may as well have been reporting the rain! No interest other than trying to help me to block the old phone. With only the number* there was nothing I could do.

*Of course, I didn't know my number! It was written down in my phone! Thankfully, I often have to give my phone number when checking into a hotel. I tracked down the number of the hotel in Sandona (not easy!), called, explained the situation and the lady read my number back to me. Sometimes being the strange guy on a bike helps people remember me!

I took to attempting a task and going as far as I could then taking a walk to relax the brain and nerves. I found a nice cafe (about the only one in Ipiales) with good WiFi and tried to relax. Having lost all my notes I had nothing on Ecuador. I took to reading the familiar blogs to refresh my addled brain and trying to get myself into the exciting, "looking forward" state of mind. With mixed results.

I downloaded as many of the apps I usually use that I could recall - Osmand, iOverlander etc., a task that my addled brain found surprisingly difficult. On my phone I go to a button that opens up all the related apps but to actually stop, think and list those same apps without a prompt? Under stress? Surprisingly tricky! Once I could recall them it was reasonably straightforward and done when I was feeling particularly helpless - one more thing accomplished.

In between I considered and tried different ways to access my Google account. Use a familiar device (phone, tablet, computer) on a familiar WiFi network they say! Ha! DumbAsses!
The last place I had used WiFi was San Juan and as an illustration that it never rains but it pours (in every sense) the road back to San Juan was blocked by a landslide!
On one of my walks I remembered staying in Las Lajas, not too far away. I set off one morning, was instantly recognised at the hotel "You came back!", explained the situation and logged into the WiFi. No change.

There was a lot to be grateful for too, though, in all the stress.
The guys in the Hotel were helpful and considerate. The lady in the phone shop was efficient, honest and helpful. The guy in the phone network shop was patient and helpful getting me set up to make international calls then dropped everything to help me when I still couldn't call.

I did not like Ipiales, felt very antsy and stayed indoors after dark. The hotel had a night guard armed with a shiny revolver. I'm sure it was so shiny on purpose and as I had an evening smoke and a chat he confirmed that it was needed and was often withdrawn from its holster when a motorcyclist went past. Apparently, they are the worst.

Once I had enough access to continue I settled on a Sunday morning departure. I was not going to shed a tear for Ipiales yet was very reluctant to get on the road. A sense of dread hung over me.


No. There are no feckin' photos of Ipiales. You'll just have to visit, yourself!

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (12 Mar 2022)

For anyone not aware, or perhaps reading this later I've "lost" my phone, my notes, a load of photos and access to my Google backup.

I'm going to continue this from March 6 here in the hope that I'll be able to come back later and add in the missing days.

If it's confirmed that I can do this I'll leave these posts here. The alternative is to wait perhaps months. I have decent WiFi now so will take advantage of it. Enjoy!

*Mod Edit 26/12/2022:*
@HobbesOnTour has regained access to his data, has written up the lost days, the missing posts have now been added in chronological order. Enjoy!


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 904 Sunday, March 06, 2022, Ipiales (Colombia) to Tulcan (Ecuador) 14km Total KM 17230
Min meters 2779, Max Meters 2957,
Total Climb 229, Total Descent 175
Min Temp 11 Max Temp 22 Ave Temp 14

Country Number Nine! Ecuador! 

There was a fluttering of anxiety last night trying to get to sleep. The alarm was set for just after 5am and the plan was to get up, brew a coffee, maybe have some bread and peanut butter, pack up and be moving with first light. Of course, things didn't work out that way.

My focus had been on retrieving what I'd need to cross the border - my email from Colombian Immigration extending my stay and my EU vaccine cert. I'd forgotten about the other things I had to do - register with Colombia Immigration online to tell them I was leaving and register with Ecuador immigration that I wanted to visit. Doing those ate up some time and besides, I was too nervous for even a coffee.

The street was deserted when I went outside. Both a good and a bad thing. I tried to look on the positives. I'd be going back onto the road where I got jumped albeit a little further along. A deep breath and I set off.

*Adiós Colombia, Hola Ecuador. Country Number Nine! *



Anxiety is a funny thing. Before an important business meeting, a first date or those last seconds in a rugby match when my team are defending a narrow lead or fighting for the winning score I thrive on the anxiety. I enjoy it.it gives me energy. I wasn't thriving this morning! 

Once on the main road it ran upwards and I felt very slow, very exposed. Thankfully, there was practically no-one out and I felt bad giving the odd early riser a wide berth. I don't like feeling that way.

_*An elegant but disused just inside Ecuador




*_​It was only about 3 or 4 km to the border and I arrived with a sigh of relief. Security is normally pretty good at a border. 

First job was to check out of Colombia. No queue, I parked and locked Roccado (first border crossing I did this) and went inside. He had no interest in my online form only the permission to stay. Some clicks on a computer and I was done.

*Ecuador welcomes me with a hill! *


Onto to the bike and on to Ecuador. Stopped on the bridge by a friendly Policeman he told me I had to join a queue of pedestrians to go through the COVID formalities and then I could proceed to immigration.

*There were a few roadside places making bricks. Some kind of a kiln and large, covered areas to store the bricks*
_



_​I joined a queue of maybe thirty people already waiting on a railed footpath on the bridge. It was about 7:10. And raining lightly. 
It was about 8:10 when a lady showed up and started handing out forms to be filled in. In the rain and no pens! When I got mine I realised it was a paper version of what I had filled in online. The lady behind me went up to the official and was able to get approved. I did too, showing my COVID cert. Over an hour waiting for a one minute check. 

*Tulcan welcomed me with a playground for bikes! *


The immigration office was empty and I was seen straight away. A stamp in the passport and I was outside again with Roccado. I looked for a coffee but nowhere was open so had a ciggie instead and gave myself a minute or two to appreciate where I was. Ecuador! Country number 9 of this little adventure! Not bad. Not bad at all! 

I set off up the hill. A decent road with a very wide shoulder with no-one around was what the doctor ordered. The morning was cool and still wet so the climbing kept me warm. 

*It was a very bright and kid friendly place*


It's not fair on Colombia but there was a sense of relief to get away from the border. Ipiales has been scrunched up and tossed on the side of the road. The further I get away from it the better. But that does not apply to Colombia. At all. 

Colombia has been a fantastic experience. For travelling by bike I think it's the best place on this trip (Spain still has the number one spot, I think). The sheer variety of the landscapes and the speed with which they change is impossible for me to describe. It should be experienced.
There's something for everyone from wild back roads to excellent highways. The level of respect shown to cyclists and people on bikes is beyond what I've seen anywhere else. And the coffee!!
México has stolen my heart and still is my favourite place in terms of the whole experience but for cycling, Colombia leads. 

*The Plaza in Tulcan with a flying horse!*
_*



*_​It really didn't take that long to reach Tulcan, the first town along. I was a bit antsy on the approach with people out and about but not enough to make me feel secure. The main road leads right into the Plaza where I hoped to get some coffee at least, and maybe breakfast. I didn't see anywhere - I was looking not just for food but a sense of security for Roccado as well as myself. I did a lap and headed out the way I'd come to a place I'd passed. 

_*Another perspective on the Plaza




*_​I ate a decent breakfast but the coffee was a disappointment - hot milk and add instant coffee! 

*Information boards for refugees at the top of the first hill in Ecuador. The map shows possible routes through the country with places marked off that offer help to the refugees. The other board has a list of all the organisations offering assistance and contact details.*
_




_​With all my notes lost in Google I reread a few blogs on CGOAB over the last few days. Tulcan was one of the places I wanted to visit. It has a famous cemetery and this is one that actually welcomes tourists. 
Tomorrow, there's the possibility of taking a backroad through interesting country and camping overnight at a Nature reserve. Unfortunately, the road is notoriously bad and especially tough in wet weather and there's been no shortage of rain lately.
And it's Sunday, a good day to take the pulse of a town. 
I decided to stay. 
One of my shortest days ever. One of the most unpleasant too, at least at the start. Ipiales is literally another country now. Time to let a new country charm me. 

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 904 Sunday, March 06, 2022, Tulcan 




_*There were some well worn buildings that oozed character. *_
*




*
_*


Street Art. Tulcan bills itself as the Ecuadorian Capital of cycling - I have no idea why. The bottom photo is of a recreational area that had the usual playground attractions placed between a weaving path for kids on bikes. Closed when I arrived it was still a bright and cheerful place 








More street art.








And yet more!*_
*




*
_*


A beautiful church. I must be cursed that so many churches I visit have scaffolding!*_
*




*
_*


More street art. The bottom one is for a Mexican restaurant.








A brighter perspective of the Plaza









From the Plaza I can see this unusual Church and this ugly civic building








Lots of interesting doors








Lots of elegant buildings hinting of a prosperous past




*_​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 904 Sunday, March 06, 2022, Tulcan Cemetery
​You'll have to forgive me. The cemetery in Tulcan has been long on my list of places I wanted to visit. A cemetery, they say, that people are dying to get into! 
_*


Just like a day well used produces a sweet dream, a life well lived delivers a sweet death.








One of the more elegant graves*_
*




*
_*


A street of death. It sounds horrific but in reality it wasn't. The decorations are bright and vibrant, often with photographs of the inhabitants. Some have cheap toys, probably solar powered, that away and move and bring a life to a still scene. Being a Sunday many graves were being tended to. 








A closer example








The cemetery is famous for its trees that have been coiffured into amazing shapes and tunnels like this. For me, in a cemetery, absolutely stunning*_
*




*
_*


All these were started by one man. Who now resides in this cemetery








I don't know if the designs are based on traditional figures.....








As well as the streets of death (my own label) there are crypts and more "normal" graves. I didn't realise it at the time, but up high where this photo was taken from was a children's section. Heartbreaking. I had been enjoying my wandering up until that point but needed a break. 





*_


_*More figures





*_

*And yet more.....




*​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 905 Monday, March 07, 2022, Tulcan to Reserve El Angel 34km Total KM 17264
Min meters 2986, Max Meters 3746,
Total Climb 914, Total Descent 166
Min Temp 10 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 21

Decisions, decisions....... And consequences!

I slept pretty well but was awoken about 4:30 by two people having a conversation. Then the water that had stopped while I was brushing my teeth returned and started making noise as it ran down the drain. Up to turn off the tap then back onto the bed and into my sleeping bag - it was that kind of place. I didn't get up until close to 7am, got packed and rolled out into a dry day. I climbed to the edge of town and pulled in for breakfast and a much needed coffee. To give an idea of diet and such in these parts the simple eating place had a sign promoting a special price for a coke if added to a lunch ...... or breakfast!

*Leaving Tulcan, a well spread out town. There are definite hints of the U.S. with the advertising signs.*


I had two options today. Stick on The Pan American, visit a couple of towns and stay in one of them. Or get off the Pan American and have an adventure.
I'm not sure if it was that the Pan American appealed to me more or that the adventure option was unappealing but I set off with two routes in Gizmo pretty sure that I'd stick on the main road. The truth of the matter is that the thought of taking a backroad made me anxious. And this one was notoriously quiet.

*On the road to El Angel. It didn't take long for the views to open up*


Coming up to the decision point as luck would have it a roadie appeared and crossed over in front of me. I asked him about the quality of the back road to El Angel - great he said. I'd asked my coffee guy yesterday and he said the same. i think I was hoping for someone to tell me it was crap. At the turn I stopped for a little chat with myself. Did I come here to cycle main roads? No! How many backroads have I ridden and what problems have I had? Many and none. Am I a big sissy? Of course!

I took the turn.

*I just love that there's one tree left in the middle of that field. There's a story there, somewhere*


I stopped at the first house with someone outside and asked again. Sure, no problem to bike it. Great road! Off I went. Not long after the road split and mine turned to crap! I didn't want to turn around because that would mean sailing past that man and proving that I was a wuss. *I* can call myself a wuss but I don't want random Ecuadorians thinking that.

And so started the adventure.

*The top of the first climb*
_



_​
I'd read about this road up to a Nature reserve that welcomed overnighters. But I'd also read of the road and none of it was good. Especially not in wet weather and it seems to have rained every day for the last two weeks. But I'd also read of the strange Paramo landscape like what I had seen in Colombia around the Trampoline.

_*Everything was so changeable from the road surface to the views to the temperature. Note the dark colour of the volcanic soil. I was trying not to think of Costa Rica!*
*



*_​It started off fine with rough but reasonable roads, a reasonable gradient and it wasn't long until I was getting decent views of open farmland. The patchwork quilt of fields has carried over from southern Colombia and I found myself being reminded a lot of Ireland. I'd about 30km of this climbing about 1000 meters. It was looking good.
I was passing farmland with people working by hand. Again, I got to see onions being harvested - back breaking work by the look of it - by a friendly family of all ages. Later, lost in the effort of staying upright on such a rough road I got an awful fright when a woman working in a field above called out a very cheerful "Buenas Tardes" (Good afternoon). I replied just as cheerfully once the shock had passed and added what a beautiful part of the world she was working in. "And peaceful/quiet" was her happy response which did make me wonder if she was having a humorous dig at me for calling back to her and shattering that tranquility with my funny accented Spanish.

_*I*_ _*just love this shot. "Adventure", it declares!*_


I had a climb to about 3500 meters, then a short descent then a gentler climb back to over 3700 meters. I made it to the top of the first climb and celebrated the fabulous view with a snack. Unfortunately, the homemade cookies I'd bought in a store had been battered to crumbs. Oh well, they'll liven up my morning porridge.
From then on the landscape changed and the road went to pot.

_*It's a great road, they said.....*_
*



*

_*It'll be grand they said.....*_
*



*_


*No problem they said.....







No problem on a bike, they said. I'm barely in Ecuador and I wouldn't trust an Ecuadorian as far as I could cycle without hitting a hole, water or mud! *_
*



*​
To be continued......

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 905 Monday, March 07, 2022, Tulcan to Reserve El Angel 34km Total KM 17264
Min meters 2986, Max Meters 3746,
Total Climb 914, Total Descent 166
Min Temp 10 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 21

Decisions, decisions....... And consequences! Part Two

What had been rough but passable became intolerably jagged with sharp, pointed rocks emerging out of hard-packed earth surrounded by lots of loose stone and rocks. If that wasn't bad enough it seemed entire scoops had been removed from sections of the surface leaving large dips, many of them filled with muddy water. When I couldn't see the rocks it was because they were covered in water, sometimes just in patches, other times covering as much as 30 meters of the road. There was no way I'd attempt to cycle through these loaded as I was with such a deceptive surface underneath.

*After the first climb the landscape changed. The amount of life, of colour and variety crammed into a small space was phenomenal*





​I started to walk and ended up walking most of the last 10km of the day. This was definitely the most difficult surface I've travelled (excluding that horsetrack on the mountain). I can't believe that motorised traffic actually comes this way.

*The Paramo landscape*​

I'm sure some folk think that pushing a bike on a bike tour is heresy but I really don't care. I'm not convinced that I'm a cyclist so "traveller" suits me better. And walking and pushing is travelling. Besides, get a bike and ride Tulcan to El Angel and then talk to me about pushing!

It wasn't a hardship at all. The gradient was generally gentle, the most difficult part was dealing with the rough surface. My feet, while wet, were warm in their wool socks and the rain stayed away, mostly.
It was the landscape that really thrilled.

_*More life on the side of the road*_
*



*​It's hard to describe. I recall stumbling across this Paramo landscape in Colombia and being enchanted. Here it was on a whole other scale. I wasn't travelling past it - I was bouncing and toiling right through it.
It began with a closing in around the road. Banks of earth with all kinds of vegetation, but all kinds of different vegetation seemed to close in on either side. It was the colours that were so interesting and the sheer variety of plants side by side that was so impressive. Where there were no plants different hues of moss covered the ground like on a map where countries are marked out in different colours. Walking slowly not having to worry (too much) about falling over I could savour, gawk and pass in wonder.

*An old tree trunk has been colonised and taken over by ...... Life and colour*
_



_​Then the banks seemed to sink, the vegetation became lower and views started to open up. An army of those curious spiky topped little trees that had so enchanted me in Colombia were all around. In fact, these would be my constant companion the whole way along, sometimes hidden by the ditch but always there. And an army they were. Like of old, stretched out over valley and hill on silent guard, waiting for the battle to commence.. Sometimes as far as my (failing) eyes could see.

*I do love this scene!*


It was like I was in two (TV) channel land. On one channel rolling vistas of massed, peculiar, stunted palms while the other had close ups of ever varying, wild, colourful plants. It seemed that as I travelled along the hills moved closer and closer, an army advancing on top of me.
As the hours ticked along I became less mesmerised and a tad intimidated. I hadn't seen a human soul since my lunch stop and other than the sound of the wind at various bends I had heard two birds, individually tweeting.
Strangely, I could often hear water, so loud, so aggressive that I thought it was an engine approaching. Narrow, deep streams seemed to be gushing alongside the road at times, but hidden by the vegetation.
It was quite a strange feeling to be so alone in such a strange environment. I can't say that I was uncomfortable but I wouldn't describe myself as comfortable either. Eerie was the word of the afternoon.

*The landscape is starting to close in on me. The silence is total. I haven't seen a human or a sign of a human since the top of the first climb.*


Thankfully, the Touring God's laid on lots of entertainment for me in the form of the road surface. Regular puddles evolved into little lakes and then to rivers. Once my feet were wet it didn't make much difference but negotiating the longer, deeper puddles required caution as both my feet and wheels slithered from rock and stone to slippy mud. More than once I had to use the bike to restore my balance or face a muddy immersion.
I amused myself wondering just what might be in these puddles and lakes. I was in South America - aren't there piranha fish that can strip flesh from a bone in seconds? And that thing sticking out of the muddy water - is it a rock or the top of a crocodile's head? __ Sometimes a healthy imagination can help to pass the time.

_*A weird, wild, wonderful, wide view*_
*



*​In truth, and this sounds terrible, after a few hours I was becoming bored and starting to wonder about my accommodation option. If I couldn't stay at the reserve I'd have to go on to the next town, El Angel and frankly, on this road that could be hours away, downhill or not. Most likely in the dark.

_*I'm starting to feel a tad intimidated




*_​I did try hopping back on the bike a few times but quickly got off again. Pushing was both safer and more comfortable. Finding a place to park the bike for photos was tricky - I didn't want to damage any plants - but I did find a place where I could both park Roccado and lie down. I ate peanut butter and bread and savoured a rest overlooking a silent, still army. Stopped, close to the ground I got to study up close another feature of this area - miniature trees. Not bonsai, but quite similar. To all intents and purposes a tiny tree with tiny branches and tiny leaves growing out of the moss. With one movement of my head I could assess the silent army in front of me stretching monochromatically off over the horizon and with another I had what seemed like the very representation of individuality, life and colourful defiance beside me. It really was quite special.

_*Soldiers standing to attention*_
*



*​I pushed on and eventually arrived at the reserve, or at least the gate of the reserve. Locked. Uh oh. I looked to where the road curved away and saw the familiar bad surface, checked the time, 16:50, and didn't like the look of my options. The place wasn't exactly Fort Knox and I could easily squeeze past the gate which is what I did, ambling up slowly calling out a suitably plaintive "Hola". No-one was around. There was a large one story building with attached toilets that were open and a large car parking space. While there was some grass there was nothing suitable for a tent and while the walls might give some shelter now that I was at the top of the road the wind had picked up. An uncomfortable night was in store with an early departure before anyone arrived. The tough part would be getting the bike and gear in and out past the gate.

*An eerie landscape. A few days of this and I think I'd have to work hard not to go a little crazy*
_



_​As I strolled back down the hill to the gate a motorbike pulled up with a man in uniform. Not long enough in the country to know if he was Police I explained my predicament. As it turned out he was a night watchman of sorts. Due to the Pandemic they couldn't host people to stay inside anymore he explained. Seizing on the "inside" I explained that I had a tent and could stay outside, that light was fading and I'd a long journey to the next town.
He said a tent would be fine.
He opened the gate and we both went up the hill. First thing on my order of business was to dig out the stove and brew up some coffee. The tent could wait. As is my habit I offered the man a cup and he seemed a bit shocked commenting that he should be offering me a cup! Intrigued by my Trangia we chatted as the water heated and he told me that really bad weather was forecast. A tent outside wouldn't do so he opened a room, usually used for meetings and presentations for me for the night.
And that's why I always carry an extra cup!
I was home and in comfort!


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 906 Tuesday, March 08, 2022, Reserve El Angel to Mira 40km Total KM 17304
Min meters 2419, Max Meters 3812,
Total Climb 312, Total Descent 1596
Min Temp 7 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp

Small town Ecuador

For a night on a floor I slept very well in my sleeping bag. A bright security light outside was a bit disorienting but when I awoke at 5 am it made it pretty clear that there was no point in getting up to watch the dawn. Smothered in cloud I was. Back to bed then up at 6 to brew coffee, have some porridge and get organised. Once packed up I set off on a short hike to see the lakes. Eerie is probably the best description at that time of the cold, damp morning. It's a circular route and the second half of the circle - up to a viewing point before returning to the reserve building - advertised itself as for healthy hearts! Much to my shock I passed!

_*Plant life from my invigorating morning walk*_
*



*​Back at base I said my goodbyes to the very kind man and rolled down the hill. For all our chatting he had never once offered his name and it felt impolite to ask. Given that he encountered me wandering behind a locked gate he was the definition of kindness and hospitality and blushed when I told him so. I was hoping that the road might improve but of course, it didn't. It was perhaps slightly better than yesterday in that there was a lot less surface water but rolling downhill on loose rocks is not a lot of fun.

*The lake on my walk




*​After 8km the surface changed to cobbles. Oh. Dear. Lord! Walking was more comfortable.

*Setting off the signs were ominous! I'd 13km (I think) to El Angel. It would take me two hours. Downhill!!




*​After 10km the surface changed again to hard compacted dirt. Oh, what bliss! There was almost no noise after all the rattling and bone-shaking of the last 90 minutes. Where the surface was damp my wheels whispered softly to me. It was glorious. And then it wasn't when the rocks returned.

*Patchwork!



*​Once I hit the dirt road houses started to appear and with the houses, dogs. Some paid me no heed but the ones that didn't barked at the very least, most of them gave chase and some were too snarly for my taste.
My attitude and response to dogs has done a complete U turn since the U.S. where they seriously threatened to derail this little adventure. Admittedly, the dogs in the U.S. tended to be bigger and far more aggressive whereas here, outright aggression is the exception rather than the rule. At worst, they are an annoyance causing me to stop.
It's occurred to me that after my rabies shots I don't know what to do if bitten by a dog. Am I currently immune to rabies? Am I a potential cure to a rabid dog that bites me after my shots?__ In any case I'm being extra careful, often stopping and talking to them. What is particularly annoying is the dog that ignores me only to give chase when I've passed and another dog barks at me. At one stage today I had a dozen dogs barking at me but only one that was aggressive.

*With the new phone none of the small plant photos came out well yesterday. This was today's attempt. While the vista might be eerie and bleak there were always little flashes of colour up close



*​I finally caught sight of El Angel and rolled onto a surfaced road! There were cheers. A blocked road due to roadworks couldn't puncture my mood and I happily waited anticipating food and coffee. Given that I was the only "traffic" being held up they moved a truck to let me past.

El Angel has the most amazing Plaza. It's stunning with barbered trees (I don't know the correct term), lots of seats and even seats under trees specially barbered to provide shelter. I spied a bakery with seats - yaaaay! - and got a coffee and a couple of croissants. Proper bread! Yaaaay!

*That hedge running along the hill captivated me for ages! I'd left the Paramo landscape behind and was back in farming country




*​A nice looking town there was something off that I couldn't put my finger on. I bought some water and rolled out of town. In my head I had a long sweeping descent ahead of me to take me as far as I wanted to go. Ibarra is the next big town but that's up a bloody big hill - my tea leaves weren't suggesting that for today.

The problem was that my head hadn't taken on board all the detail. I had to climb before I descended. Not a big climb by any stretch but my body saw this as breaking our deal and made heavy weather of it, not helped by the fact that I was in my rain gear in anticipation of the descent and therefore too hot.
The other part of the problem was that I didn't like the road. A minor two laner with a shoulder unfit for anything it made me ill at ease. The surface was very poor but in a different way to Colombia. Regular parts of the surface had broken away leaving rough patches of various sizes maybe an inch deep.
The shoulder was unusable, below the road surface bordered by a u shaped water drain, filled with gravel, rocks, rubbish and broken glass that often stretched well into the road itself.
The land beside the road seemed to be full of overgrown weeds. Nothing interesting to see at all. In fact, it felt very urban, the kind of roadside vegetation common on the edge of towns draped with rubbish.
Untidy was the phrase that came to mind but the urban vibe made me uneasy. There were no towns nearby but knowing that didn't help. The four guys outside of Ipiales weren't far from my consciousness.

*At last! El Angel! Down there there is a German Shepherd rounding up a stray cow and shepherding her back into the field. I could see no human



*​I was well cooked by the time the climbing was over and I pulled in to cool down before starting the downhill. It was on the descent that I realised just how hard it is to try to take photos in Ecuador. Perhaps it was just the dull, gloomy weather combined with the lack of stopping places and a new phone but I found it very hard to firstly find a good spot to capture a view then when I did the camera didn't do it justice.
The mountains, and in a lot of cases, volcanoes, seem to be much further away than in Colombia but larger for all that. The perspective is different to what I've become used to. The views are on a huge scale difficult for a camera to capture. Of course, trying to stay upright on a loaded bike on such a terrible surface meant that I was only catching glimpses since there weren't many places to safely stop.

*Today's Rio after El Angel and the start of a climb was far below and furious!



*​I simply wasn't enjoying myself. Strange as it is to say I started looking forward to rejoining the Pan American because I should have a decent surface and a shoulder and a sense of security.

I pulled in to the small village of San Isidro and was immediately struck by how quiet it was. Again, a lovely little Plaza with barbered trees, an interesting church but no activity. People said hello unprompted but there were so few around it felt strange. I'd settled on having a coffee here but there was nowhere to have one!

I set off again and a little later rolled into Mira. Spying a bakery with a few seats I enquired about coffee. I got a mug of boiling water and a jar of Nescafé. Oh dear!

Outside I passed a pleasant twenty minutes chatting to a man about my bike, the trip and the different countries I had been in. They talk fast here too like the Colombians!

Mira was the last place that I knew had accommodation and with an ominous sky decided to call it a day. I found the little place alright. A simple, small room but a hot shower and WiFi. More expensive than Colombia it seems. Then out to explore.

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 906 Tuesday, March 08, 2022, Reserve El Angel to Mira 40km Total KM 17304
Min meters 2419, Max Meters 3812,
Total Climb 312, Total Descent 1596
Min Temp 7 Max Temp 23 Ave Temp

Small town Ecuador; The Towns along the way



_*The Plaza in El Angel*_
_*








Buildings and monuments in El Angel








Lots of interesting trees in the Plaza








Bunny rabbit statues in a small park beside the main church. I really liked them*








*The main church (bottom right above) was very bright and cheery*








*San Isidro, the centre of the small Plaza*








*Two sides of the three sided centre of San Isidro - the fourth side is the road 








Inside the church in San Isidro, taken through a railing. I had to wait a good twenty minutes for an old lady to finish praying at the gate








Roadside decorations








More roadside decorations at the edge of Mira. They all seem to be celebrating local culture and life*_
*



*
​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 906 Tuesday, March 08, 2022, Mira 


_*A wonderful, huge mural opposite the Plaza*_
_*












The little church*_
*




*
_*






The Plaza. This was where I figured out what is off in these places. They're like the "good room" on a house - the one that looks really nice but is never used. All of the Plazas I've visited so far in Ecuador have none of the vibrancy and life of Colombia. I returned again and again to the Plaza and there was never more than four or five other people.*_
*




*
_*






Now this I loved!!! A huge, long mural on the road south.












Just some of the rest of the mural*_





*




*
_*





A hodgepodge of architectural styles and conditions were on display












Community information about the local government now having a digger available to rent by the local community, an anniversary of an important council meeting and a campaign to neuter dogs and cats.
And bright, cheerful street signs*_
*




*
_*




The wonderful cemetery with heavenly views. An old man saw me climbing up to take a photo over the locked gate and gave me directions to get in around the back!











*_
*Sunset





*​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Mar 2022)

Day 907 Wednesday, March 09, 2022, Mira to Home (outside Ibarra) 46km Total KM 17350
Min meters 1557, Max Meters 2435,
Total Climb 838, Total Descent 1028
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 42 Ave Temp 31

Bless me, Father, for I have sinned.

The only good thing about my room last night was the hot shower. It was tiny and with my panniers on the floor moving around was a minefield. With relief I fell on to the bed. Then the fun started. The room faced onto a covered courtyard and just as I was about to fall asleep a light went on outside like a silent truck bearing down on me behind the frosted glass of the window. On and off. That was the pattern, it seemed, for most of the night. I can sleep through most things but silent truck headlights are not one of them.

I awoke for the last time very, very grumpy. I didn't even consider making coffee in such a confined space so packed up, loaded up Roccado and then couldn't get out. After much calling the woman of the house showed up and seemed surprised that I wanted to leave so early - it was nearly 8am for crying out loud!

*Morning view over the rooftops. If I'm right (and I'm probably not!) that snowpeak over there is above the equator!! (It may just be a cloud )*



I pushed up the hill to join the main road and did a little double take of the view. It was pretty damn impressive. Joining the main road on the edge of town I had a choice - turn back towards the town and seek out coffee or continue on down the hill. I knew there was a village of sorts before I rejoined the Pan-American. That would do.

The road was very quiet thankfully but the surface was treacherous. I'm used to potholes but this trait of sections of surface missing is tricky. Without my mirror I feel more vulnerable when weaving between them - the wind rushing past my ears blocks out all noise. Stopping safely was tricky with few places to lean Roccado.

*The interesting and the even more interesting.... They do seem to go in for roadside decorations in Ecuay.
Don't underestimate the trickiness of that surface on a fast, curvy descent.*




​
The views were amazing though as I descended towards what was to all intents and purposes a desert. To add to the perfection of the environment there wasn't a trace of a rainy cloud anywhere to be seen and the sun was blasting down on me. By rights I should have been celebrating Ecuador but I just wasn't feeling it.

*It is really difficult to capture the scale of what I am seeing*



One of the good things here are bus stops - solid, covered, permanent structures perfect for a touring cyclist to stop at. Spying one, I pulled in and made peanut butter and banana sandwiches. A bit of fuel helped but no coffee.

*Descending into the desert. My poor body is taking a real battering going from heat to cold, pouring rain to dry. Travelling in a vehicle all that sensuality is missed. (Lucky Ba$tards)*​_



_

Down I went and passed the village of Mascarilla metaphorically kicking myself for not making a cup of coffee back at the bus stop (water was scarce) because there was nothing available. I had no urge to wander off the main road to explore - I couldn't see either a spire or a tall tree that might indicate a Plaza - so pulled up to take a photo of the town name. A couple of people waiting at a bust stop and a young fella walking the road inspired anxiety in me that had me pushing on as quickly as I could. I don't like feeling this way.

*Today's río surging through the desert on an important mission. I'd actually be accompanying the río for a while and irrigation channels were furiously carrying water along to large fields of sugarcane*



I rejoined the Pan American, a big, new four laner, split with minimal shoulder and was pleased to see little traffic. A Police checkpoint gave me the opportunity to stock up on cold water, not a trace of coffee to be had - Oh Colombia! You have spoiled me and I miss you so!

*The Pan American again and I'm in Steinbeck country! Another little dream achieved *



For a few Kms the road was rolling and slightly upwards, then the road reverted to only two lanes with a decent shoulder and the climbing began.

*Desert!*



By now everything had changed and like Colombia before, I was left amazed at just how quickly things change in this part of the world.
Yesterday at the same time I was labouring up high in damp, cool weather, rain never far away, the countryside wild with (almost) unique mountain top vegetation adapted to cold and damp while today I'm in a desert with cacti. I do not move fast on the bike and it is simply mind boggling to me how things change, not just visually but sensually as well. With the sun blasting down on me it was hard to imagine the damp cold laying siege to me the day before just waiting for a crack to invade my bones. The wonder of bike travel!

*Fruitful Cacti*



Unfortunately, my head wasn't in it and then therefore neither was the rest of me. This wasn't a steep climb by any means but I was struggling. Everything felt heavy - from the bike to my legs. In my defense it was hot - the temperature would hit 42C and I was travelling at the hottest part of the day. Now two lanes, the road seemed busier and from a security point of view I felt safer even if it meant that trucks and buses barrelling through had me wobbling about in the shoulder. I didn't have a tremendously long day ahead of me but the end seemed very far away.

Shade, at least on my side of the road, was almost non existent so spying some on a bend I pulled up until the sun moved and I lost it. Off I went again. I told myself I had done longer, harder, hotter climbs than this but even as that monologue droned on I knew the problem wasn't physical. Too much energy was being diverted to a gnawing anxiety. I was feeling uncomfortable on the road. That's not good for a bike tourist.

*Looking down on the Pan-American*



Spying a long stretch of trees offering shade beside a little irrigation channel that was bursting with self importance I pulled up and laid down. This rest had three objectives: to rest, to give time for the sun to move and offer more shading later and to face down the anxiety building up. The plan worked reasonably well. To give you an idea of the temperature, Gizmo was reading 42C when I pulled up. After an hour or so in the shade he was down to 24C! Once I set off again he rose steadily up to 38C.

I set off again after about an hour and attempted some switchbacks, the steepest section of the climb. To add to the fun a pretty strong wind from the North hammered me on the turns forcing me to walk for safety's sake. That wind was unnoticeable as I laboured upwards with it behind me!
Of course, with switchbacks came great views of my road below me and the road looked particularly well from up high. My hope for more shade had been in vain and I could feel myself crisping up nicely.

Getting close to Ibarra in terms of Kms if not meters, I pulled in to a substantial roadside restaurant. I could do with coffee, food and water but they only had water - a display bottle that had the dust washed off before being handed over. It would have to do. This wasn't a roadside shack or covered table but a purpose built restaurant with a large (but unequipped) kitchen and separate dining area. They just had no food!

Ibarra is supposed to be an interesting, Colonial town and I had a couple of options. iOverlander had a German campsite out of town beside a lake or I could get a hotel or hostel in the town itself. Ecuador is more expensive than Colombia, especially for accommodation so that's a factor. The thought of rain in the tent was not a positive one and the ease of a central room for a couple of nights appealed over a tent outside the town. The campground, though, was on my side of the city.

*Looking down from even higher. The life brought by the río is plain to see*




​Before Ibarra proper, I was directed off the road into a little town. I found the small, neat but empty Plaza near a small basic church, bought a cold drink and made more sandwiches in the shady Plaza. Bliss.

Looking at the ridiculously steep hill Gizmo wanted me to cross - through a residential area that before was nothing to me but now makes me nervous - I opted to return to the main road and try a different route. That worked, bringing me along the lakeshore on a dedicated and separated cycle and walking lane network. Out into the country I went and higher, past a motor racetrack, past a Glamping place until I saw some flags sticking out of bushes on the road.

I pulled in to be greeted by a large, rotund, heavily beared German and when I had a chance to look around I realised I could have been in Germany - a place very close to my heart.
A menu of German favourites, a formidable German beer list and a real feeling of home. I may be in Ecuador on the adventure of my life but right then, right there, a little feeling of home was exactly what I needed. It's probably sinful for a traveller to reveal in such a feeling but it is what it is.
Home! And I won't be rushing away!


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Mar 2022)

Days 908-910, Thursday March 10 - Saturday March 12, 2022, German campground outside Ibarra

We forget. Or at least I do. The things we like, enjoy. The things that please us and make us feel good. Too often we can forget. Then we don't do the things we like or enjoy. We're busy. Not in the mood. Too much hassle. An unhealthy circle.

Well, I'd forgotten a few things as I was approaching Ibarra. I forgot how much I enjoy camping. I forgot how much I love Germany - its culture, its food and its beer. I'd forgotten how much I miss Germany. I've visited Germany several times every year for close on 20 years. The last three Christmases are the longest time I've not gone to a German Christmas market in those 20 odd years.
I really wasn't in the mood for camping. There's been a lot of rain. And a German campsite in Ecuador. Come on! How German can it be?

*It was so strange how the sight of this fridge both excited me and made me feel at home. Most of those beers are old friends, Warsteiner is an old enemy (ferocious hangovers!). I've sold them, drank them and have a story to tell about most. Beside the fridge are bottles of Gluhwein!*



Well, I'm a Dumbass!

From the first moment I had the most overwhelming feeling of being home, in a familiar place, comfortable and safe. By sheer chance Hans, the proprietor, happened to be at the gate as I rode up. A warm welcome, a quick chat, a quick tour - pitch pretty much anywhere and I returned to the "beer garden" for a much needed proper coffee.

_*Bratwurst and bratkartoffelen. There were tears in my eyes eating this one. With a locally brewed Kölsch (Ecuadorian water, everything else German) I could close my eyes, taste and be in Cologne.




*_​The authenticity of the place is unreal. German beer gardens are no stranger to me and I could have been in any one in Germany. The beer selection is German, about 50 different beers and the menu is all German.
Everything works. Each pitch had power , WiFi covered the whole area. There was a washing machine and hot water in the shower. Simple. Functional. Reliable. German.

_*Sunset. It's better in the flesh 




*_​The campsite is located on a lake just outside of Ibarra. The lake used to be full of fish and the pleasant green colour I noticed on the way in is why there are no more fish - contamination. At weekends, the lake is alive with paddle boats and the shores filled with families walking, cycling, picnicking - just being together. There's a big volcano overlooking the lake and at night the sky turns red and pink as the sun sinks beside it.

*There's one little community along the lake and this is their pretty church*


There were two other couples camping. An older French couple, very friendly but with poor English. I was chatting to French people in Spanish in a German campground in Ecuador! I cannot describe just how chuffed I am with myself!
They are travelling the Americas in six month blocks in a campervan. Six months over here, find a place to store the van, return to France for children and grandchildren then resume the adventure the next year. What a fantastic way to organise things!
The other couple are American, about 50ish (I can't bring myself to write "about my age") and have plans to travel the world in their van with their two cats. They're quite big in the "Van Life" community on YouTube (I may be a featured guest!). Apparently successful they reassessed their life and decided to head off - after a lot of preparation - in their self designed and fitted out van.

*The lake. The water looked magical but is highly contaminated. The sun and clouds playing their games on the hills was like a huge, open air TV screen*


It was very pleasant to talk with other travellers who had a similar mindset to my own. No conversations about the price of drugs in different places, where to get drunk the quickest. Or what places had the best parties.

*That was a breakfast!



*​But. The. Food!
I didn't stop smiling the whole time I was there. I was either eating, looking forward to eating or enjoying the satisfaction of a good meal well savoured. I wrote about in CDMX finding the little beer and sausage place. This was on a whole other scale.
I'm not even going to try to describe everything because I couldn't do it justice. What was amazing, however, was that the girls working there changed each evening so my food was prepared and served by a different person every evening. There was not a single discrepancy in quality or presentation. A German restaurant in Ecuador using German ingredients but local staff. That's not an easy thing to achieve. But it was done excellently.

*That be a volcano! The thought kept nagging me that I was a bad, bad bike tourist for going to Ecuador and camping out in Little Germany. Feck it. The road delivered what I didn't even know I needed*
_



_​Like a child at Christmas eyeing up all those gifts under the tree each evening was almost an overload of pleasure. I knew within ten minutes of arriving I was going to stay longer than the one or two nights I had "planned". Every evening I'd sit down and eat, drink a beer or two and decide to stay another night. It was that good, that special and that much like "home".

There's an unusually long list of reviews of the place on iOverlander and it's clear to see why. Hans has an extra dog that he is taking care of because the owners had to make a sudden return to Europe. There's a number of vans parked up, either regulars who come over every year or people who had life happen to them and had to change plans. I missed only by a couple of days a Belorussian who has left his van there, flown to Ukraine to get his family out and then will fight the Russians. Of course, during the Pandemic the campground was host to a huge number of people hunkering down while the world went a little crazy. If you need something, it seems that Hans knows a guy. For long termers on the road a place like this is a godsend.

_*Hans. Friendly, helpful, and a great host. He came to visit his son who was volunteering here about a dozen years ago, went hiking, returned to Germany and asked himself what he was doing. He came back, bought some jungle and set about making this little piece of Germany*_​
*



*​My mornings passed lazily, propped in my chair having brewed up a pot of coffee. Three dogs would drop by to say hello. I'd read a book, write up my notes, sort out my photos and generally relax.

*A slightly more rotund yours truly with Maria, a very young, incredibly enthusiastic and motivated waitress/cook/hostess. Being a Sunday they wore traditional German garb and the place was very popular with locals.*


One afternoon I took a wander around the lake, another I went into Ibarra. Another "White City" with Colonial architecture and lots of it it has quite a few Plazas. On a Friday afternoon it was making quite the impression on me. Unfortunately, I was on the bike and there are a lot of cobbled streets making exploring a bumpy, uncomfortable business. I noticed very, very few bikes parked anywhere and was wary of leaving Roccado out of my sight for too long. With such a pleasant city made so difficult to explore I decided to spend my last night (whenever that might be!) in the town and even checked out the rate and availability in a decent looking place. Satisfied, I then sat down in one of the Plazas to watch and soak up what I could of a large Ecuadorian town.
Nada. Nothing. Zip.
There's a serious lack of soul, of heart, of activity, of life in urban Ecuador.
One man with a toy horse and a variety of hats for kids to take photos on and nothing else. Not a vendor to be seen. A handful of people spread through the Plaza but no life, no vibrancy. I changed Plazas. Ditto. Even the market area was remarkably calm, though busy. After hitting just about every shop I managed, at last, to get another mirror for the bike. Ipiales had messed it up beyond my McGyvering skills and I lost it bouncing down to El Angel.
I waited around as long as I could - darkness would fall and dark clouds were swirling - sure that a Friday evening would be a jolt to the town. Nothing.
I returned to the campsite about ten minutes before an hours long downpour and decided that there was no point in spending more time in the town. Pretty, certainly, but not my kind of place. A little German enclave in Ecuador was!

*If I got bored of the food ( I didn't!) the views weren't bad either.*



​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Mar 2022)

Days 908-910, Thursday March 10 - Saturday March 12, 2022, German campground outside Ibarra

Ibarra

_*Just one of the many Plazas in Ibarra. Well maintained, pretty, colourful but so, so dull*_
*



*





_*Interesting art on a building








A great explosion of green amidst the traffic









But no life......*_
*




*



_*An old market building, restored, and now a cultural centre. But closed!*_







_*A smaller, three sided Plaza. There are a lot of churches!*_









_*There wasn't a huge amount of art but this caught my eye*_








_*A lot of attention and care goes into the public spaces ...... But ..... There's no soul









Churches!*_








*Various styles of architecture




*​
See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Mar 2022)

Day 911 Sunday, March 13, 2022, Home (outside Ibarra) to Peguche waterfall (outside Otavalo) 29km Total KM 17379
Min meters 2204, Max Meters 2669
Total Climb 607, Total Descent 232
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 33

Back on the backroads

I was up about 7am and brewed a pot of coffee as I set about getting organised and packed. A lot of dew falls here so the tent would need to dry out and the sun wasn't quite high enough yet. In any case, I was in no rush.

Once everything except the tent was packed and loaded I had my last meal at the campground - a delicious German breakfast. Saying my goodbyes took a while and the YouTube folk wanted to do an interview. Finally I was ready to go but was really of a split personality. A part of me really wanted to stay! I told Hans that I might get to the 15km mark and then turn around!

_*Leaving the wonderful campsite and riding along the lake. I really, really wanted to stay!*_
*



*​I set off around the lake and immediately into a stiff hill. My first problem. After rain my gears can be sticky and I couldn't get close to engaging Granny gear. That was nearly reason enough to return!
I loosened everything up and continued. My first objective was to get past Ibarra, not something I was looking forward to. On Friday it had been busy, steep and no shoulder. Unladen it was tricky so I was hoping Sunday might be easier.

It was. I negotiated my way in, through and out of the (edge of the) town safely and stress free. On the six lane highway after Ibarra it became less pleasant. Despite the space and relatively light traffic many stayed in my lane keeping me along the white line beside a particularly nasty drain. Because of traffic lights the traffic was bunched so I stopped for each bunch.
Thankfully, I didn't have to do this all day turning off at the town of San Antonio de Ibarra and taking the backroads.

*Ibarra. A very pretty town, especially in the sun. But it left me cold. Not a city to be alone in.*
_



_​Because of my late departure I was travelling in the hottest part of the day and the climbing I had to do started now. Spying shade on the footpath and a steep climb I hopped onto the path and pushed in the glorious shade. Pushing in a town is normal for me - it lets me see everything - but other than the shade it was pretty pointless here. The street was lined with furniture showrooms and not a lot else.
An older man stopped me for a chat and I passed a very pleasant quarter of an hour. I was in no rush and Washington was very pleasant and complimentary about my Spanish. I'm a sucker for compliments.__

*It doesn't look like much of a road but it was to lift my spirits*


The Plaza was a bit of a disappointment, open and lacking people. In fact the whole town was very quiet and finding a place for a coffee and a bite to eat proved fruitless. I eventually had a coke and some pastries in a bakery. I'm finding Ecuadorian towns soulless and lifeless.

Onwards and upwards on a backroad that would run parallel to the Pan American with regular connections if I didn't like it or enjoy it. The surface was variable, traffic was light but often bunched and even though I found the climbing very tough in the heat I really started to enjoy myself.

*Passing through agricultural communities and lands*
_



_​For a start, there were little communities all along the road, usually where there was a connection down to the Pan Am. Between these communities a lot of people were walking. Not walking (I think) for recreation but to or from somewhere. Usually family groups or individual, older folk and to a man they responded positively to my greetings with pleasant words, smiles and eye twinkling. Sometimes even a sympathetic nod when I was labouring hard.
A lot of people, mainly the older generation are wearing traditional dress often featuring that blue colour that I first noticed back in Silvia.

The buildings are interesting in Ecuador.
First impressions are that Ecuador is wealthier than Colombia, or at least has less poverty. The houses along this road (and generally) are of sounder construction than I have seen in Colombia, are bigger and are often more ostentatious - by that I mean they are more than what is purely necessary. Balconies are common but more stylish than the other side of the border. Elegant columns are common. Along here a lot of big, fancy houses were in various states of construction.

_*Looking down on the Pan Am. No thanks!




*_​Spying a tree ahead I grabbed the opportunity for shade and plonked myself down under it to pass half an hour. I'm practically on the equator, I'm up high - the sun is pretty powerful! All day I was to pass dogs on this road and this was the only time that one barked at me. In fairness, I had plonked my ass not far from his gate so after a few minutes of asserting his authority that I ignored he gave up until I had rolled past his gate and then he saw me off properly!

*That be a volcano!*
_



_​When I continued the road was more rolling, but always trending upwards. At least I had the occasional flat section or even a gentle descent to catch my breath and cool down - there was a hefty wind from the North.

*A very pleasant day's cycling with some big houses under construction*


I passed through a biggish town with wonderful art and an interesting church but, again, soulless and little activity. A solo female cyclist passed me and then waited for me to catch up for a chat. Another Feckbook friend.

*A roadside monument which I took to be extolling the church and a small community church above the road





*​By now I was nearing Otavalo, a famous touristy town which would be my end point for today. Before there, however, there was an opportunity to camp at a famous waterfall and I wanted to check that out too. The Peguche waterfall has been developed into quite the tourist attraction by the local indigenous community with stalls and a car park, walks and hikes through the countryside and a place to camp at the princely sum of $1.50. The ladies kindly relented on their rule that no bikes were allowed and I pushed the 500 meters or so to the camping area. Most people were packing up to go home so I sat tight for a while to survey my options.
There were a type of flat topped stone pyramid, one with a thatched roof, a couple of mud floored shelters and open grass. With dark clouds all around I commandeered the spot with the roof, brewed up some coffee and set up the tent. The toilet block closed at six and after that I was on my own - or so I thought.

*The view from my tent. (This was taken the next morning - my evening was gloomier!)*


At first the rain was light but as it got heavier the thunder started then the lightning. The temperature dropped significantly and the thatch leaked. I made a dinner of noodles and then enjoyed the amazing sight of my old friends the fireflies lighting up the whole area around me in the wet.
As I stood there with the sound of rain falling through the trees (and through the leaking thatch onto my tent) the wind swirled above but below each flashing firefly seemed to reflect off dozens of soaking, green blades of grass, each one creating a "sparkle zone" that was reflected as far as I could see. Beautiful, tiny pockets of sparkles in the darkness. Then a flash of lightning turned the world a silvery blue, the tall trees appeared as black monsters for a moment until the darkness smothered them and as my eyes adjusted the sparkles emerged again.
Cold, wet, but far from miserable.

*Mi casa*




​Tucked up in bed well before 8pm I slept well until about 2 am, awoke, heard the rain still falling then rolled over for more sleepy time.
Home may be in a strange place with strange bugs in a thunderstorm but it's home! Spirits well and truly restored.



**See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Day 911 Sunday, March 13, 2022, Home (outside Ibarra) to Peguche waterfall (outside Otavalo) 29km Total KM 17379
Min meters 2204, Max Meters 2669
Total Climb 607, Total Descent 232
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 33

Back on the backroads; The Towns Along the Way

_*San Antonio de Ibarra*_
_*







A mural beside the church








A surprisingly pleasant church (above)*_
*





*

_*
The main Plaza in San Antonio de Ibarra. Closed! *_
*




*
_*


Another little church






Not everything is in good nick*_
*




*
_*
Iluman. A small town close to Otavalo. I arrived just as the town seemed to be getting ready to go home. There was a strange vibe and the first drunk people I've seen on a Sunday in a long time. *_







*A small town church*






​**See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Day 911 Sunday, March 13, 2022, Home (outside Ibarra) to Peguche waterfall (outside Otavalo) 29km Total KM 17379
Min meters 2204, Max Meters 2669
Total Climb 607, Total Descent 232
Min Temp 20 Max Temp 43 Ave Temp 33

Back on the backroads; The Art Along the Way

Sorry! 
After Ipiales I was still riding with a bit of anxiety. The interesting road, the responsive people helped soothe my mind. But the Art really helped the process. 
It's very difficult to be too anxious with so much human expression in regular, clear view.
The art deserves its own post.


















_




_






























Homework for @cwskas 



​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Day 912 Monday, March 14, 2022, Peguche waterfall to Campground near the feckin' Equator! 38km Total KM 17417
Min meters 2568, Max Meters 3110
Total Climb 660, Total Descent 540
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 29

@netman: 
Equator camping
Osmand: 0.00367° N, 78.17296° W
Google: Camping "Mitad Del Mundo"
https://maps.app.goo.gl/ThH1whp39gXjwVCA8

Serendipity

I didn't take a look at the falls last night so after brewing my morning coffee* I took a stroll up. I could hear the falls all last night and they were only a few minutes walk from my tent. Pretty impressive from a distance the sheer force and power of them as I got close was a surprise.

* On the subject of coffee..... I'm down to my last couple of brews. I bought that coffee in Popoyan before Christmas! For some reason a kilo cost the same as a half kilo and frugal me couldn't resist the bargain. I include that to shock the weight weenies!

*The surprisingly powerful falls. Except for when the thunder rolled last night they were a constant aural companion. *


I packed up, dried and cleaned the tent as best I could and headed off. The ground was made of uneven but smooth rocks. The rain during the night had filled all the gaps between stones creating a sort of Venice under my tent so the floor of the tent was quite wet. The toilet block remained locked despite being told yesterday that they'd open at 6 am (something I thought unlikely) and headed on out. Thankfully, another toilet block at the entrance was open and being cleaned. I pointed to my muddy shoes apologetically but the lady was very pleasant. Relieved in all kinds of ways I took the backroad to Otavalo.

_*The little Rio running away from the falls*_
*



*​Otavalo is a famous town, home of the largest Artesenal market in the Andes. It did nothing for me!  I am a bad, bad cycle tourist!

I arrived and first on my list of priorities was a coffee and a bite to eat. Preferably in the Plaza. Not a chance.
The Plaza is certainly pretty, elegant and well maintained and at this early time of the morning has a lot of people starting their day but it is just so sterile. Not a soul selling coffee. Or anything. In fairness, at a smaller Plaza some ladies were selling breakfast but the Colombian habit of consuming the same meal three times a day seems to have stretched into Ecuador. A plastic bowl of chicken with salad and a boiled egg did not appeal.

*Taken to demonstrate some of the big, extravagant houses that are more common now*


Instead I plumped for a $2 (Two Dollars!!!) coffee and a toasted sandwich of mass market bread, processed cheese, processed ham and two thin slices of tomato that only served to wet the bread. It was one of the most flavourless things I've ever put in my mouth. And I once kissed an Englishwoman!

The buildings are beautiful, well maintained but after the air of neglect and chaos in Colombia it seems odd, unusual and holds little appeal. In Colombia it made sense that the buildings were a little neglected - everyone was too busy living. There was character. Soul.

*The Pan Am. Some people dream of riding this "road". I was one of them. It varies so much from place to place that there's no consistency. I like to stop and tell myself just what road I'm on to remind myself just what I'm doing ...... then look for an alternative *


I didn't look for the market. Bad tourist. I've seen a lot of the indigenous products stretching all the way back to Mexico and I always feel bad looking too much because people are trying to sell - and I have no intention (or ability) to buy anything. After a Pandemic when tourists are few I feel especially sensitive to raising hopes and wasting time.

*Nice scenery, though*


I climbed out of the town and back on to the Pan American. I didn't really have much of a choice in the matter. I'd have preferred to take smaller roads but there were none - at least none that didn't add significant Kms.

The road was big, wide but had a generous shoulder that made cycling comfortable. Spying a restaurant advertising breakfast I pulled in - a bland toasted sandwich wasn't enough - but their idea of breakfast didn't match mine.

Another restaurant a little later did and I sampled some of the local biscochos - crispy, dry biscuits - with cheese (surprisingly bland and rubbery), scrambled eggs and a big, big mug of decent coffee from a very pleasant and friendly lady.

_*As roadshots go this one isn't bad




*_​There was a fair bit of climbing and the sun was hot. Very hot. And prickly. After being inside, or after the rare time the sun emerged from behind a cloud, I could feel my arms start to tingle for a few seconds under the power of the sun. On such a cool, damp morning I'd forgotten to apply sun cream to my face so now I was wearing my facemask to protect my nose. I made use of the odd bus shelter for a bit of shade. It may seem lazy but sustained time in the sun really starts to make me lightheaded. And this is a very strong sun. It was sitting at one of these shady spots that I realised something was missing. Something that has been a constant companion in the Latin part of this trip - a colony of ants spread in a line transporting all kinds of things. Where are the ants?

I have been totally spoiled because I thought the scenery was just ..... Meh. In lots of places it would be wonderful but today it was just meh. I'm a terrible bike tourist! __

*The mountains (volcanoes?) change as the clouds move overhead. It's very, very pretty*


In any case my mind was elsewhere. The Equator was just down the road (actually up!). As is my way, as it loomed up it became more significant, more exciting. With it came the idea that this was the end too. The Equator was the reason I was here. Had I stayed in Colombia I'd have had to have left by yesterday. I pushed that thought into one of the dark recesses of my mind and pedalled on. And up.

At the top of the climb I pulled in to a restaurant for a coffee - a package deal with more bizcochos and bland cheese - real coffee and a big one I'm pleased to report.

*Volcano!*


Then there was one of those moments of serendipity that always seems to happen. First, one familiar face, then another peered around the door. Simon and Vicki, the Austrian couple I'd met back in the Casa de Ciclistas in Medellín! Sometimes sticking to the big roads has its advantages! And having a big, ugly flag - that's what they noticed!

After what happened to me in Ipiales I had made contact to warn them (and also the Casa) but they hadn't enjoyed Colombia like I did and were already in Ecuador. Somehow, slowcoach me had overtaken them!


_*The same shot as above. Somehow the six lanes make it seem far, far away. *_​*



*​We set off together and there and 912 days into this trip I knocked something off my list that I'd forgotten about - cycling with someone else! (Sorry, Willie, Austin doesn't count!)
We learn things about ourselves when we cycle with others. My big lesson is that I'm slowing down - on the descents! They took off and were lost from sight on the bends. I have vivid recollections of hitting 70+kph in Spain but these days anything over 50 makes me nervous and the brakes come on! On the flat and the climbs I held my own.

With a cheap, basic camping option near to the equator we stocked up in a town and found the place.
Another pleasure. Setting up camp with others. A totally different experience for me. A well experienced team it was interesting to watch the teamwork and organisation. My tent floor was very wet from this morning so needed a bit of time in the wind and fading sun to dry out.

Simon & Vicki set about preparing dinner for the three of us, I brewed coffee and later provided the vino tinto to wash it all down. My second vegan meal of this trip. It's difficult to describe how enjoyable the whole experience was. Obviously it's very enjoyable to have a good meal prepared and handed to me, but having company in what would otherwise be an empty corner of a field was quite the experience.

*If there wasn't a bloody big volcano just out of shot I could be in Ireland!*​





We chatted until well past my usual camping bedtime and were comfortably in our tents when the rain started. Home - with amigos!

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Day 912 Monday, March 14, 2022, Peguche waterfall to Campground near the feckin' Equator! 38km Total KM 17417
Min meters 2568, Max Meters 3110
Total Climb 660, Total Descent 540
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 40 Ave Temp 29

Serendipity; The things along the way..


_*A church in Otavalo*_









_*Another "Rocket" church on the main Plaza in Otavalo*_







_*Some nice art*_







_*The impressive local government offices*_








_*I passed a couple of coach makers along the road









Punta Loma. I must be getting very old but I took one look at those tents on rafts in the lake and thought "Mosquitoes" *_
_



_




_*There seems to be a stronger sense of community in Ecuador. These smaller towns are predominantly indigenous and they seem to work on a goal for the community. Yesterday was the waterfall and park. Today it's Jurassic Park! Indigenous clothing is very common (at least amongst the ladies) and people seem more prosperous than in Colombia. *_
_



_




_*An interesting statue hiding the church in Cayambe









The church without the statue. I liked the colours*_






*Art in Cayambe



*

​


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Day 913 Tuesday, March 15, 2022, Campground near the feckin' Equator to Tababela 51 km Total KM 17467
Min meters 2495, Max Meters 2792
Total Climb 752, Total Descent 910
Min Temp 15 Max Temp 39 Ave Temp 23


Crossing the Equator!

It rained most of the night but stopped a bit after dawn. I woke up in great form. I had company and I was going to cross the equator! 

We all emerged from out tents at about the same time and set about our morning routines - coffee and oatmeal. We took our time, both tents needing to dry out and set off. 

_*Yep! That's snow! Atop the Cayambe volcano*_
*



*​The Equator was only a few Kms down the road and cost $3 to enter! At least this was the "official" Equator! Apparently, there are other places that lay claim to being on the equator but they're not - including one a quarter of a km up the road! If anyone is that way inclined there are 37 equator monuments around the world. Now that would be a bike tour! 

There was no-one there (except for the guy taking money who gave a short lecture) so we had it all to ourselves. In an example of the Serendipity of the road I had Simon and Vicki to take my photo! 

*It's a very rare event that I am comfortable posing for a photo like this. I wasn't just comfy, I was filled with happiness! What a journey and how feckin' lucky am I????*


Willie (cwaskas) had given me the most gaudy, bright, tie-died t-shirt from a Texan sandwich place and the idea had formed in my head when I turned south (again) that a photo of me in the shirt at the equator would be a fitting end to the trip.
Willie has been a constant companion on this trip since he joined in when I was in Texas. In lockdown in Mexico he was in regular contact offering whatever he thought might help - including an offer of a Calvin & Hobbes book - in Español. For my vaccine run to Austin he put himself completely at my service. This photo would be my (inadequate) thank you to the big hearted Texan. It's not often I look forward to my picture being taken but this one I did. And as luck would have it I had people I knew to take the photo.
The Touring Gods are looking out for me!

_*Simon & Vicki. They weren't even supposed to be here! Covid had cut short their plan to go East. The closest I could get to 0 on Osmand was 0.00001° N, 78.17498° W (Gizmo doesn't show coordinates as far as my quick look could tell)*_
*



*​I'm not a great one for celebrating milestones. I have found that oftentimes reaching the destination is an anticlimax. I enjoy the journey more than the arrival. Like reaching the Pacific, though, this felt great.

The Equator!

It's just a line. But for me it represents the end of one thing and the start of another. I was so happy that I took this figary and instead of heading for Bogota and a plane I gave myself one more journey. An eventful journey, to be sure, but one that I'm not going to forget.

We set off again and we'd be splitting up soon. Simon's parents are flying in for a couple of weeks and they'll have a couple of weeks of luxury away from the bikes. I was heading south to Cotopaxi to camp one last time, then turn around and head for Quito. 

_*A "fake" Equator. I noted the sign for Spain - the Equator wasn't the finish line - it was the starting line for something completely new!*_
*



*​We stopped at the town of Santa Rosa de Cuzabamba where the road split, had lunch and said our goodbyes. I can't believe my luck in meeting the two of them. I then set off into a rolling day along a poor section of the Pan Am. The only advantage was that it was cool. A healthy cover of cloud kept the sun off me most of the time. I stopped at a couple of towns off the main road and just could not process how dead they were. Pretty? Yes. Colourful? Yes. Interesting architecture? Yes. Good Plaza? Excellent. 
But lacking in the life that I have become so familiar with and so comfortable in. Perhaps this is the Touring Gods' way of reintroducing me to Europe.

_*Interesting landscape and look! Other cyclists!*_
*



*​I was feeling a tad conflicted as I rode. I felt a strong urge to visit each town, spend a bit of time, try to get a feel for the place but, on the other hand I had set myself a tough target to get to Cotopaxi, camp and get back to Quito with enough time to organise my travel. It also dawned on me that the notes I've been preparing for Spain are all in Google! And gone! 

*New, yet familiar plants on the descent after the Equator*


I'd contacted a place on iOverlander about a camp spot but no response had been forthcoming. Instead I found a cheap place in a small village on Booking and booked it. I'm tracing the edge of Quito so accommodation is not cheap. 
When I arrived no one was there so taking advantage of a grass parking area I set up the tent to dry it out. An hour later still no-one around and out in the country there was no-one to ask. I called the number listed on Booking to no answer. Finding a sign with phone numbers I had success with the second to be told they had no rooms for tonight! I was furious! As I was packing up a woman came out (having ignored the two times I rang the bell) but she was of no help. I was lucky in that I had passed another couple of options so I went to one nearest the main road. Too expensive, we haggled until I was satisfied and had a glorious hot shower. 

*Here's the problem with Ecuador - scale! While Colombia had its fair share of epic and grand vistas I'm finding that the Ecuadorian ones seem more removed*


Later lying on the comfy bed I worked out my schedule and realised I was cutting things very tight especially since it seems I will need a COVID test to enter Spain. The road to Cotopaxi is highway all the way - and the same road most of the way back. I decided to sleep on my options.

_*The ill-fated hotel.*_
*



*​Home. On the other side of the Equator! 


_*Sunset's pretty, though*_
*



*​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Mar 2022)

Day 914 Wednesday, March 16, 2022, Tababela to Tambaco (Quito) 16 km Total KM 17483*
Min meters 2326 Max Meters 2589
Total Climb 144, Total Descent 331
Min Temp 17 Max Temp 37 Ave Temp 25

The End (of Part One)

I had a fitful sleep. Something wasn't sitting right with me and that filtered into my sleep. I knew when I woke up I wouldn't be going to Cotopaxi.

*Quito. One of those places that sounds so exotic, so different, so strange. The closest Capital city to the Equator and the second highest Capital in the world. And I'm going there on my bike! *



​It's Wednesday. My flight is on Tuesday. That's six days. I'll need two days to get to Cotopaxi, a day there and two days back. One day to get organised for a flight? I think not.
No time to see Quito? And a gnawing pressure as I cycle? No thanks.

*As cycling goes not the greatest day on two wheels but not the worst either. The sign is telling me that my shoulder is going to disappear!*


There is a Casa de Ciclistas in a suburb of Quito near to the airport. Hans (from the German campground) knows the guy but told me he doesn't like Social Media. I have an address from Google Maps but no contact info. I do not want to arrive unannounced.

*No shoulder but traffic in waves. Not the bestest but not the worst, either*


Thankfully, a request on a Facebook group came up with a number and I called this morning at a reasonable hour.

*Tumbaco. The last stop. *


Santiago, the host, was unbelievably kind. Because of the Pandemic they're closed but an exception will be made. A bike box is not a problem.

*The Parque/Plaza*



I'm going to Quito!

*The Plaza is pretty, has some people but is typically Ecuadorian - quiet. For love nor money I couldn't find a coffee! *







_*The last one of these for a while.....*_​*



*​​​​_*This is Tiger. Then there was Atty and Luna. Three dogs to keep me company. *_​*



*​

* I know somewhere that @IaninSheffield is banging his head against a wall wailing "could he not do another 17km??" 


See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (26 Mar 2022)

Odds'n'ends


Inca Kola from Ecuador. The closest thing to Iron Bru that I've come across but no sugar and no calories. AbSoLutely Vile! 
*



*



I just love how tyres are recycled here! 
*




*



That's on a busy footpath (Eciluador). There is never a dull moment when I'm exploring!
*



*




A hand washing station with International sponsorship. Ditto at the border. A number of countries (all European) "sponsor" the border crossing
*



*





Another lethal hole in the footpath! If I fell in it would be up to my shoulders!
*



*




Irrigation along the Pan American bringing water to the sugarcane fields
*



*




In each country there are subtle differences to the road. In Ecuador some of the rain gullies were terrifying! 
*




*​See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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## HobbesOnTour (27 Mar 2022)

The last post. Madrid, Spain, March 27, 2022

This is surprisingly difficult to write. 

It's not the ending I had in mind all that time ago when I set off. Ushuia. El fin del Mundo. That's where it should end. But bike touring, like life, often ain't like that. Everything doesn't go to plan and one thing is for certain - The Big, Big Trip didn't go to plan. 

I happen to think it was all the better for that.

This Travelogue didn't go to plan either.
I never expected to make so many friends. Maybe some of you will think that's a bit much but travelling solo on the far side of the world I'll take any camraderie I can get. Thank you.​
*I actually got to visit a museum!!! The National Museum of Ecuador. Honestly, a tad disappointing, especially since large sections were closed off. This painting, though, caught my eye. This part of the world was about to undergo unimaginable changes.*​






I am really looking forward to sitting down and reading this. Hopefully this winter. On a big screen. To see my photos in a size bigger than my phone! 
I wrote this for me. I am incredibly pleased that so many of you have enjoyed it and told me so. 
My sincere thanks for the comments, the compliments and all the good wishes.
I'm proud of my Travelogue. 

*There was a modern art display in the museum. As is my way the trees outside were more interesting!*​*



*

I am reluctant to single out any individuals for the simple reason that I may miss someone out.
I'm going to plough on regardless though 

@Pat "5mph" was my main mod contact before and during the trip. Beyond helpful and so, so enthusiastic.
@cwskas , I've already covered. On a long tour I hope you meet your cwaskas.
@netman for his map! I love that map!!
@Richard Fairhurst who put México into Cycle.Travel for me! Feck Strava. Feck RWGPS. Double Feck Komoot. Cycle.Travel: The best cycle touring mapping service there is.
All the regular correspondents - @IaninSheffield (have you got that dog yet?), @Shadow thank you for your interest and literary suggestions, @CharlesF and his requests for even more photos, @chriswoody - I'm looking forward to the father daughter trip!
And the random correspondents. Thank you all.
Even those that threw up the odd like - it's heartwarming to get a response.
I lost some followers along the way and that's to be expected. I don't think I've followed a live blog without taking a break because something bugged me. 

_*The Gothic Cathedral in Quito. My mind wasn't really in the right place to do Quito justice. Also, it's a tough city for my kind of exploration on foot. It's like a sausage rather than a square and is very, very long. And hilly!*_
*



*​*

Interesting street sculptures dotted the city. On a Sunday various roads are traffic free so bikes (and skateboarders) take over. It was nothing like CDMX and Quito lived up to my limited experience in Ecuador - pleasant, pretty but lacking the vibrancy, life and craziness of other American countries.







*
*Quito. The old and new, the pretty (lots of little Plazas) and the neglected




*​*

*
*What I achieved: Filling in my map of Spain and boxing Roccado*​*




*

What next?

I'm not sure. Madrid is cold and wet! 
After filling in my map of Spain with routes I've decided to create my own. I'm going to pick up Don Quixote on my Kindle* and follow that iconic literary route, reading and riding, riding and reading, with interesting diversions as I go along. It's only 2500km . I'll keep notes and maybe write it up over the winter. Or maybe there's a book in it. Anyone know any literary agents? 

*I also have the Spanish version. It's old Spanish - way beyond my abilities!  I'll be reading in English

*My first Plaza and Church in Spain.*​_*



*_

A long time ago now @IaninSheffield asked me what changes I noticed in myself after so long on the road.
Well, after even longer on the road I've arrived in a foreign country, with a foreign language, to a city I once passed a romantic weekend in and I feel totally at home.
My Spanish works! 
The strange, the unusual, the foreign is to be celebrated, savoured and understood. (What's the point in travelling to see and feel the same as at home?) 
I'm in a country where food is a celebration of life and it is glorious! 
I'm relaxed and stress free. That's not like me. The old me.

*My first view of Madrid city centre (top) and my first dilemma (bottom). Which way do I go? It doesn't matter! *​





It would be easy to think that the door has closed on my Big, Big Adventure but that's just not the reality. When I tentatively stepped through that door all that time ago and headed to the New World of Colombus I didn't quite realise that I was heading into a New World for me.
Right now (as I seriously tempt fate!) I think there's not a thing I can't do if I give it a decent shot. By comparison, when I set off from T-Town I didn't know if my back and legs would get me to Rotterdam! 
I feel feckin' great! 

*Home. Interesting trees and captivating artwork*​





As far as I'm concerned the jury is still out on whether this trip was one of my better figaries or the absolute dumbest thing I've ever done. I've had tough days and periods of loneliness but two and a half years in I can't point to any long term negatives but I have lots of long term positives. 

I understand how incredibly fortunate I have been to be able to do this trip. I also give myself credit for making it happen. 
I know that not everyone can do a trip like this (but I'd encourage anyone who would love to do similar but can't to really explore the "why?"). I thought I couldn't either. Physically, financially, emotionally and mentally. I'm happy to have proved myself wrong. I can't emphasise enough how important inspiration was (sometimes from the Chat Zone) rather than "stuff" to get me through and, more importantly, enjoying it. 

Someday I hope to do the Big, Big Trip part two. In all honesty the urgency is a lot less. I didn't reach my destination* but what a journey I have had! And for me it's (always) about the journey. 
I have other goals in mind, a new life and way of life to set up. My new life won't be like my old one. Travel, even if it's local, will be a big, big part of it. 
When I get around to doing TBBT Part Two I'll ask to reopen this thread (and cue the complaints about the long title!)

* In an interesting twist of fate the day I landed in Madrid an old girlfriend was starting out on an epic romantic expedition by plane to Ushuia involving three continents! If I ever get there there may be a friendly face to greet me!

Anyone who makes it to the end of this long tale and has questions I hope to be around on these fora for a while yet - fire away. Just don't ask me about bike specs .

You can lock this up now mods and thank you!

Hasta luego!


*If ever a city was made for my style of exploration......*



​

See the Big, Big Trip Map here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?mid=1C4CxxXQvj5sW-fwUWvp65A19Rl5iLsdg&usp=sharing
With much gratitude to Netman

Chat? Yes Please!
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/chat-zone-for-the-big-big-trip-journal.254098/


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