# compatible batteries



## tommaguzzi (25 Feb 2017)

Hello e_bikers.
I am considering converting my commuter bike using a wheel kit as sold on eBay. They don't seem to come with a battery so the question is do all batteries have the same plugs\ leads to connect to the controller box.
Sorry if this has been asked before.


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## Scoosh (25 Feb 2017)

I know very little indeed about electric bikes/batteries etc - but I know someone who might !

Calling @voyager !


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## raleighnut (26 Feb 2017)

tommaguzzi said:


> Hello e_bikers.
> I am considering converting my commuter bike using a wheel kit as sold on eBay. They don't seem to come with a battery so the question is do all batteries have the same plugs\ leads to connect to the controller box.
> Sorry if this has been asked before.


Which kit?


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## tommaguzzi (26 Feb 2017)

This one http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/48V-1000W-LCD-Electric-E-Bike-Rear-Wheel-Kit-Bicycle-Motor-Conversion-Hub-/311702965224?nav=SEARCH


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## numbnuts (26 Feb 2017)

tommaguzzi said:


> This one http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/48V-1000W-LCD-Electric-E-Bike-Rear-Wheel-Kit-Bicycle-Motor-Conversion-Hub-/311702965224?nav=SEARCH


48V 1000W Not legal on British roads sorry 250 watts is the maximum anything over that will need tax insurance ect


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## tommaguzzi (26 Feb 2017)

Ok thanks so how about this one?

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bi...-Brake-26-Rear-Wheel-/311702962345?nav=SEARCH


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## voyager (26 Feb 2017)

Most e-kits do not come with batteries , 250w CONTINUOUS rating is the UK legal limit / 16.5 mph ( 15mph+- 10% )
The spec is "bent by some of the e-bike suppliers " since july the new bike specification is pedelec only without a throttle ..

BMS in china is one of the places I have used and Panda which is in in the UK and advertise on e-bay , Buy direct saves you a few pounds( as the prices add commission on ebay )
Panda sell batteries packs either rack mount or drinking bottle mounts . On the e-trikes we manufacture our own mounts to run along side the main boom . 
generally the batteries are supplied with a short pair of cables to allow you to match the controller cables to the battery with eith a supplied socket of one of your choice , several units use "kettle lead " connectors whilst others use a more refined plug and socket .

There are several controllers for sale with LCD displays ( Panda sell one ) that allow you to bypass the ON-ROAD limit for off road use by software . 

D8VEH on the pedelec site is one of the experts on e-power and has converted many bikes including raleigh 20's up to a 3000 w hill climb bike with 2 wheel drive .I have converted several bikes and e-trikes to e-power and after 4 years I have gained enough experience to play with them .

E-power is not a black art but does need looking into to get the best performance and range . We use both LifePo4 and Lithium Ion batteries and have dabbled with Lipo's as we use these in RC electric power model aircraft .

THE MOST IMPORTANT PART IS TO USE THE CORRECT CHARGER , some of these batteries can supply hundreds of amps of current for a short while and do go BANG and catch fire Life Po4 and Lithium ion are the safer types to use .
you are looking about £220 - £300 for a fair battery and a little less for a Kit -
Also a crank drive will give you a better range of power than a hub motor

regards emma


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## numbnuts (26 Feb 2017)

I've been looking at this one for my trike
http://www.electric-bike-conversions.co.uk/acatalog/electric_bike_rear_hub_kit_details.html


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## raleighnut (26 Feb 2017)

numbnuts said:


> I've been looking at this one for my trike
> http://www.electric-bike-conversions.co.uk/acatalog/electric_bike_rear_hub_kit_details.html


The Cyclotricity kits are good, we've got 2 of them. 1 on Maz's Dawes the other on my trike (both front wheel though)


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## voyager (26 Feb 2017)

Technically a trike should have* ALL 3 Wheels braked if electrified
*
I use *BMS *Q100 321rpm motors on a 20" wheel and 201rpm on a 26 " wheel 

https://bmsbattery.com/ 

Note there are both disc and rim brake options available and it is cheaper to buy a hub/kit as carriage and duty is added to the price .

There are many kits available , I tend to buy the specific parts and " assemble my own " 

regards emma
*
*


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## tommaguzzi (26 Feb 2017)

Thanks for your replies especially you Voyager. Sheffield is very hilly but I don't need anything powerful just a bit of assistance to make my commute easier so I can be a little less sweaty when I arrive. It is only about 2.5 miles but has a couple of 12% climbs each way.
So 250w motor and a life Po4 or lithium ion battery and the correct charger. The battery is connected by any suitable plug. I am fairly mechanically skilled and don't see many problems converting my old Claud Butter commuter which I rescued from a skip.
If I get this done I will post an update.
Thanks again for you help.


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## voyager (26 Feb 2017)

Take a look at the 26"/700c xiongda HD 2 speed motor this is a rather clever unit as it uses "forward and reverses " the motor for a low gear ( 8 mph )with the controller set to 16mph it still remains "legal " and gives it a bit more edge .
I have one on my "voyager " trike with 2 x LifePo4 37v 10 ah batteries with a pedal able assist range in excess of 50 miles - trikes have more drag 
it has 3 setting Low, Auto and High , its nice for those hills that don't like you 

There is a write up in the recumbent section that I wrote last year 

regards emma


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## voyager (26 Feb 2017)

In true blue peter fashion 

Here is a pair that I prepared earlier , These e-trikes are coming up to their 3rd birthday this year .
The red one is using a q100 with modified controller fitted with a 11ah bottle battery while the blue one is running a standard Panda setup with a q100 motor and 9ah battery both have a range in excess of 25miles with level 3 assist , both have pedelec and throttle . use of the throttle reduces range .
The rear hub motors have a screw-on freewheel and disc brake fitted 
The assist is used to climb the steep cliff face path you can see in the distance .
The build thread is also in the recumbent section 





In the e-bike section there are a couple of e-bike builds of mine :- a BMX e-bike and a folding mamil eater folding shopper .

regards emma


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## voyager (26 Feb 2017)

http://www.cobox-ebikes.com/296/basic-understanding-of-lipo-li-ion-and-lifepo4.html

explanation of battery types


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## Pale Rider (27 Feb 2017)

tommaguzzi said:


> Ok thanks so how about this one?
> 
> http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Bi...-Brake-26-Rear-Wheel-/311702962345?nav=SEARCH



Nothing wrong with that, although you could buy a complete kit which would save connection faff.

If you do that, bear in mind you might want to shorten a cable or two if you want to make a neat job.

The battery in this kit is mounted on the down tube via the water bottle mounts,

They are barely strong enough, so may need some reinforcement.

Thick cable ties if you don't mind the look, or Rivnuts for a professional job.

http://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits


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## tommaguzzi (27 Feb 2017)

Thanks P.R. that looks like it might be way to go. I will have to measure the bike though as it currently has a non cassette 7 speed freewheel.


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## voyager (27 Feb 2017)

Don't forget, if you replace the freewheel , replace the chain or you can have some jumping problems.
regards Emma


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## classic33 (28 Feb 2017)

https://www.rool-in.com/uk/electric-wheel-c175.html

Will fit in place of the front wheel


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## tommaguzzi (7 Mar 2017)

Ok as promised here is my new electrically assisted commuter.






I bought a complete kit by Yose Power from eBay for just over £400. I liked it because the battery is integrated into the rack, it has an LCD screen, the connections appear to be high quality and it is legal. It even has the only up to 6kph thumb throttle. It arrived this morning and took about 5 hours to fit ( the crank arm had welded it's self on to the crank and was a bugger to get off )
The kit came with a full set of Allen keys, a crank arm puller and a crank bearing tool, but no instructions.
However it was easy enough to work every thing out and the connections only fit together one way.
First impressions are very good it did my evening commute with ease and on the way back I nipped into the corner shop for a loaf of bread and rode one handed holding the said loaf " int tuther " up the 12% hill I live on at 18kph grinning like a kid.

Looking at the photo I see I have to tidy the cables on the cross bar.
Thanks everyone for your advice.


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## raleighnut (7 Mar 2017)

I fitted a small bag to the handlebars to protect all the plugs from the 'umbilical' lead from the worst of the weather on mine.






(Behind the 'lamp bar')


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## Pale Rider (9 Mar 2017)

tommaguzzi said:


> Ok as promised here is my new electrically assisted commuter.
> View attachment 341313
> 
> 
> ...



Well done for getting up and running - there's lots of possible snags in fitting a kit, not to mention eccentric Chinese electrics.

As you say, a bit of cable tidying wouldn't go amiss.

Worth keeping an eye on the spoke tension in the motor wheel.

Some of the factory builds aren't brilliant, and the spokes in a motor wheel seem to settle in use more than an ordinary wheel.

The arcane craft of wheel building is beyond me, but some ebike suppliers reckon the spokes on a motor wheel are best nipped up a bit tighter.


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## tommaguzzi (9 Mar 2017)

thanks P.R. i've had no problems so far but i'll keep an eye out for that. i have to say though that the kit i bought appears to be a very good qualility product. it was posted from Berlin but is probably originally chinese as everything appears to be these days.
my only other query is should i fit a torque arm?
the forks on this bike are short thick heavy steel items which i don't think will fail anytime soon.


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## raleighnut (9 Mar 2017)

tommaguzzi said:


> thanks P.R. i've had no problems so far but i'll keep an eye out for that. i have to say though that the kit i bought appears to be a very good qualility product. it was posted from Berlin but is probably originally chinese as everything appears to be these days.
> my only other query is should i fit a torque arm?
> the forks on this bike are short thick heavy steel items which i don't think will fail anytime soon.


As long as the flats on the antispin axle are a nice tight fit in the fork then you don't really need anything else.


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## Pale Rider (9 Mar 2017)

tommaguzzi said:


> thanks P.R. i've had no problems so far but i'll keep an eye out for that. i have to say though that the kit i bought appears to be a very good qualility product. it was posted from Berlin but is probably originally chinese as everything appears to be these days.
> my only other query is should i fit a torque arm?
> the forks on this bike are short thick heavy steel items which i don't think will fail anytime soon.



Strange to relate, torque arms were going to be the subject of my next post.

The risk is not so much the drop out failing, but the motor spinning out of it.

A legal motor such as yours doesn't need one, but on t'other hand, torque arms are cheap and you may prefer the belt and braces approach.

Cyclezee ones are reckoned to be good.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Torque-Electric-Bicycle-Pedelec-conversion/dp/B00JZ2IST4


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