# Kinesis Maxlight FF29 build



## Crackle (13 Sep 2013)

So today I went down to Delamere to pick up the FF29 frame from Tracs. I did take my bike with me and managed about 6 miles in the woods before I could contain myself no longer and headed back to the visitor centre to get the frame.



























It's an orange frame in a small. Cost of frame forks and headset from Tracs was 700 (extra 30 for the tapered forks). Online I could have got it with different forks for 670 but I wanted the X-fusion and the orange frame.

I also couldn't have got a test ride online and a long chat about buying a 29er and the value of that can't be underestimated, so Tracs got my business for this and my sons GT Avalanche too.

I've gone for some Superstar wheels, not the lightest at 2kg but I'd have to pay a lot more than 130 to get lighter, so for the moment they'll do as I need to keep to a budget of about 1100, a new built one being 1500. Talking of which, most of my stuff will probably be bought from Germany as the prices are too good to ignore.

I plan on using mostly Deore kit for transmission, gears and maybe brakes. I've already bought a Deore Hollowtech crankset and yes I know about Hollowtech but the bearings are easy to replace.

I'll update this thread when I have all the bits to put it together which will be another month or so


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## dan_bo (13 Sep 2013)

Lovely colour Crax. Different too. Let's see it built.


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## lukesdad (15 Sep 2013)

dan_bo said:


> Lovely colour Crax. Different too. Let's see it built.


 Hope you 're a patient man dan_bo


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## lukesdad (15 Sep 2013)

like the Xfusion fork Ive been looking at the velvet to replace my old sid XC on my full susser as I want more travel.


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## Crackle (15 Sep 2013)

lukesdad said:


> like the Xfusion fork Ive been looking at the velvet to replace my old sid XC on my full susser as I want more travel.


They sell them, if you didn't know, at Upgrade bikes and I think they are a reasonably priced and very flexible fork. Spacers can be adjusted to make them 26/650b/29 and alter the travel, depending on which fork you get and they get good reviews, particularly the Velvet.

I'm ignoring the patient comment. so it took me a couple of months to make my mind up....and?

Edit: Sorry, they don't sell them at Upgrade, they just list them, you need to find a dealer to get one. Upgrade are the distributor.


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## T.M.H.N.E.T (15 Sep 2013)

Lovely bike frame Crax. I await the finished article (non breath holding)


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## Cubist (15 Sep 2013)

Probike are doing Reverbs at £158 delivered Cracks........


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## Crackle (16 Sep 2013)

Cubist said:


> Probike are doing Reverbs at £158 delivered Cracks........


 That is a good price, though I can't see it on the website. I think stuff like that will have to wait. I'll stick to stopping before the steep stuff and lowering the seat whilst admiring the view and sipping some water. I'll add it to the potential Xmas list next to the Garmin Dakota and stuff.


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## Venod (16 Sep 2013)

That's a very nice frame, I am a big fan of Kinesis having built 1 CX & 1 road bike this year, I already have 2 MTb's so getting another might not go down well, but wait what was that expensive coat she wanted


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## Cubist (16 Sep 2013)

Crackle said:


> That is a good price, though I can't see it on the website. I think stuff like that will have to wait. I'll stick to stopping before the steep stuff and lowering the seat whilst admiring the view and sipping some water. I'll add it to the potential Xmas list next to the Garmin Dakota and stuff.


Sorry, Probikeshop

http://www.probikeshop.com/rockshox...ft-black-without-bleeding-kit-2013/88604.html


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## Ciar (16 Sep 2013)

Very nice


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## Crackle (17 Sep 2013)

The Superstar wheels arrived today, so I put them on so I could stand over the bike and get an impression of how I might set the cockpit up.
















Bike looks a bit odd like that but it confirmed that I probably won't deviate too far from the 90mm stem on the built bikes and the low riser bars. Maybe a bit more stack height but I'll see.

Wheels look pretty good for the money, quite impressed, except I suddenly realized that the valve hole looked a bit small and sure enough a Schrader valve won't go through. I can't think of a valid reason why this is the case so I've e-mailed Superstar and will see what they say. It must surely be manufacturing tolerance but I can't be the only one who's received these wheels, so either my mistake in the order or there's a problem.


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## Cubist (17 Sep 2013)

I've run Presta valves on the MTBs for donkeys. Cubester's DT Swiss rims were presta drilled. There are plenty of presta tubes around, so go with it!

They do look like good wheels for the money. I still run a Superstar rear hub on my bouncer


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## lukesdad (17 Sep 2013)

Doesn't everyone run Presta ? Obviously not  didn't that steerer get in the way when you were visualising the cockpit


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## Crackle (17 Sep 2013)

Cubist said:


> I've run Presta valves on the MTBs for donkeys. Cubester's DT Swiss rims were presta drilled. There are plenty of presta tubes around, so go with it!
> 
> They do look like good wheels for the money. I still run a Superstar rear hub on my bouncer


Really. I'm obviously not with it then. It never even occurred to me to think Presta, well it did but not seriously. Presta tubes in 29, I'll have to investigate and try a Presta in it tomorrow. I'm actually not keen on that, it means carrying three fekkin inner tubes on a family ride. 

They'll be having a laugh at my email tomorrow then, "'ere Bert, there's some clown here who still uses Schrader...."


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## Crackle (17 Sep 2013)

lukesdad said:


> didn't that steerer get in the way when you were visualising the cockpit


I've had an idea where to put the sawn off bit when the time comes


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## lukesdad (17 Sep 2013)




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## Crackle (17 Sep 2013)

OK, I have found lots of Presta valve 29er tubes, who knew. Well I didn't obviously. I look forward to finding out what else I don't know.


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## Cubist (18 Sep 2013)

Crackle said:


> Really. I'm obviously not with it then. It never even occurred to me to think Presta, well it did but not seriously. Presta tubes in 29, I'll have to investigate and try a Presta in it tomorrow. I'm actually not keen on that, it means carrying three fekkin inner tubes on a family ride.
> 
> They'll be having a laugh at my email tomorrow then, "'ere Bert, there's some clown here who still uses Schrader...."


Never mind, it's all obsolete now that 650B is here. According to the authorities 26" wheels are being phased out across the country in a rolling programme starting in Thames area on January 1st 2014. A county at a time bikes will have to be reprogrammed to take the new wheel standards. Assistance is available for the elderly. As the new standard is introduced the 26" wheels will no longer be any use to cyclists. By April 1st 2015 they will have stopped working altogether.


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## Cubist (18 Sep 2013)

Crackle said:


> OK, I have found lots of Presta valve 29er tubes, who knew. Well I didn't obviously. I look forward to finding out what else I don't know.


How come you're using inner tubes anyway?


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## Crackle (18 Sep 2013)

Cubist said:


> How come you're using inner tubes anyway?


 Ahh, well I looked at running tubeless and getting tubeless ready rims and I haven't discounted it for trying in the future but for the moment I was just going for the simple option (read cheap), plus I was surprised to see that a tubeless setup is often heavier than a tubed setup. I guess I wasn't convinced of the benefits for most of the riding I'll be doing but I'm open to persuasion. I think I would like better wheels in the future, so that may be the time I decide.

Incidentally I owe you a mention for putting me onto the Superstar wheels and the ridiculous prices of components in Germany in my original musing thread.

650b stuff is starting to come through now, even a few weeks has made a difference to what's available as the new ranges have come out for 2014. It still has a bit of an emperor's new clothes feel about it to me but manufacturers like Orange and Whyte have all gone with it and 26 seems to have been left in for the youth market by a lot of other manufacturers, downhill notwithstanding.


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## Ciar (18 Sep 2013)

My 29'er runs on presta's same as my hybrid, i must admit previous to taking up cycling again the last time i rode they were the other ones, car valves shows you how things have changed ;-)


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

Yay, finally the pot of money I was going to use for this bike has arrived. It was a long battle and I could probably fill a thread about the complexities of trading ex-company shares in a French bank and then getting the money paid out through various channels and into your own account. Imagine German Bureaucracy without the efficiency and organisation, throw in some French laissez Faire, English confusion and you have it. Anyway I digress.... Will be doing some ordering this week and hope to have something to show next week but not in the detail of a Cubist build


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## theclaud (30 Oct 2013)

Crackle said:


> Yay, finally the pot of money I was going to use for this bike has arrived. It was a long battle and I could probably fill a thread about the complexities of trading ex-company shares in a French bank and then getting the money paid out through various channels and into your own account. Imagine German Bureaucracy without the efficiency and organisation, throw in some French laissez Faire, English clueless confusion and you have it. Anyway I digress.... Will be doing some ordering this week and hope to have something to show next week but not in the detail of a Cubist build



Well when I got the alert I knew it was too much to hope that Crax had actually _built _anything...


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

theclaud said:


> Well when I got the alert I knew it was too much to hope that Crax had actually _built _anything...


Not for much longer though, not for much longer.....


Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to the internet shop I go........


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## Cubist (30 Oct 2013)

Crackle said:


> Not for much longer though, not for much longer.....
> 
> 
> Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to the internet shop I go........


If you're looking for crank bargains CRC give you a tenner off any spend over £75 by entering the code SURVEY10 in the checkout box. I've just got an XT 785 chainset for £100. Triples are even cheaper, or Merlin have some deals on. Not much saving for SLX, but I've seen them about for £85

Merlin are also doing some bargaintastic deals on "old" 10 speed SLX... M660 10 speed shifters for £30, M663 rear mech for £30, SLX cassette for £30


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

Cubist said:


> If you're looking for crank bargains CRC give you a tenner off any spend over £75 by entering the code SURVEY10 in the checkout box. I've just got an XT 785 chainset for £100. Triples are even cheaper, or Merlin have some deals on. Not much saving for SLX, but I've seen them about for £85
> 
> Merlin are also doing some bargaintastic deals on "old" 10 speed SLX... M660 10 speed shifters for £30, M663 rear mech for £30, SLX cassette for £30



I already got the Deore Crankset and was heading down the cheaper 9 speed route, I'll just check them out though. There's currently a 9 speed slx cassette in my basket from crc for 26.99 which is an hg-80. Got some stuff in the bike discount basket of deore shifters 38euro, rear m591 30Euro, front 590 17 euro, x9 chain at 13Euro,2 x Nobby nic's at 40euro, might go and start a Merlin basket too and compare and contrast.......my head hurts......

You know with brakes being the other way around in Germany, can I swop them over? It's probably a simple question but apart from using disc brakes, I've not really had to do any maintenance yet.


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## VamP (30 Oct 2013)

Cubist said:


> Never mind, it's all obsolete now that 650B is here. According to the authorities 26" wheels are being phased out across the country in a rolling programme starting in Thames area on January 1st 2014. A county at a time bikes will have to be reprogrammed to take the new wheel standards. Assistance is available for the elderly. As the new standard is introduced the 26" wheels will no longer be any use to cyclists. By April 1st 2015 they will have stopped working altogether.


 
And anyone found sheltering 26ers will be deported to a relocation facility, pending rendition.


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## VamP (30 Oct 2013)

Crackle said:


> 2 x Nobby nic's at 40euro,


 
Surely two Nic's is an overkill? A Ron at the back?


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

VamP said:


> Surely two Nic's is an overkill? A Ron at the back?



You think. I've got Ron's on another bike, it's not much of a profile. I; m open to persuasion though. Might just nip out to the garage and have a look again.

Also I bought the Deore m590 9 speed crankset, which is listed separately to the 10 speed. I don't know what the difference is though, spacing of the bb or the rings? I'm assuming, maybe wrongly, that this excludes me buying 10 speed kit now?


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

No, they're Rapid Robs on the other bike not Rons.


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

OK, I'm going to stick to 9 speed as the cost on other parts was beginning to stack up despite the wonderful shifter bargains on Merlin 

May well get a Ron or maybe two, bit lighter and the bigger contact area of a 29er may make a difference, still mulling that one.

Searching for seatpost options now and grips. Will leave the handlebars and stem until it's together and just use some old stuff so I can get a feel for the position before deciding.

Need to find some outer cable and a few bits and bobs and then it may be time to start pressing buttons....


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## lukesdad (30 Oct 2013)

theclaud said:


> Well when I got the alert I knew it was too much to hope that Crax had actually _built _anything...


Even tho' he has the dosh he's still bloody musing !


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## VamP (30 Oct 2013)

NN front, RR rear makes for a nice chuckable balance. I really like it for all conditions. For bone dry racing I put RR on front as well, but otherwise I'm always on NNf RRr.

9 speed all the way. Cheaper (not just to buy but to replace/maintain), and more robust. 

Seatpost - Merlin have the Reverb on at £175.


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## Cubist (30 Oct 2013)

Crackle said:


> You know with brakes being the other way around in Germany, can I swop them over? It's probably a simple question but apart from using disc brakes, I've not really had to do any maintenance yet.


It's a breeze. You have to shorten the hoses anyway, else they look goppin' , so you can swap them over them at the same time. 

The below assumes your brakes include a new olive and barbed insert. If not you'll need some. 

Bolt your calipers onto the the frame and fork, and route the hoses to the bars. Clamp lever on snug . Hoses will be wrong way round at this point

Take the pads out and gently squeeze the lever until a few mm of piston emerge from the caliper body. This pushes fluid out of the res and into the caliper. With the reservoir as horizontal as possible on the bars unscrew the little bleed port a turn or so. 

Now, use an 8mm spanner to unscrew the inline connector on the lever end of the hose. When it's loose don't wave it about too much and lose fluid from the end. Same with the other side. 

Now, measure the shortest distance required to take hose from caliper to lever, and use a very sharp stanley blade to cut clean and square. Now, slide the outer plastic over over those, then the inline connector, threads towards the cut end, then teh olive, then drive in the barbed insert. I hold the hose with pliers and use a toffee hammer to drive it in snugly. Other methods involving vices exist. 

Now, (remembering to put the hoses into the opposite levers.......) push the olive up to the end of the hose where it will sit against the outer flange (lovely word, flange) of the barbed insert, and slide the inline connector to the olive. Push into the inline connector female bit keeping everything square, making sure the flange of the insert makes it all the way to the bottom of the female bit. Tighten the inline connector and as you do so the olive will be compressed and create a seal . Torque settings are "pretty damn tight". 

Now, using the orange plastic wedges between the pistons to protect them, push the pistons back into the caliper body. This pushes fluid from the caliper into the hoses, and with any luck if you have lost a few scam myu of fluid from the hose this will effectively push the air in the last inch of hose into the reservoir. Nip up the bleed cap on the res and refit the pads. 

Put the wheels and rotors back between the pads and pump the levers to pressurise the brakes and go shred.


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## Cubist (30 Oct 2013)

VamP said:


> NN front, RR rear makes for a nice chuckable balance. I really like it for all conditions. For bone dry racing I put RR on front as well, but otherwise I'm always on NNf RRr.
> 
> 9 speed all the way. Cheaper (not just to buy but to replace/maintain), and more robust.
> 
> Seatpost - Merlin have the Reverb on at £175.


Some 9 speed bits are currently more than their 10 speed counterparts. Chainsets for example.


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## VamP (30 Oct 2013)

Cubist said:


> Some 9 speed bits are currently more than their 10 speed counterparts. Chainsets for example.


Ah bugger. Another long held belief goes tits up.


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

@Cubist what length hoses. I get a choice?


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## lukesdad (30 Oct 2013)

VamP said:


> Ah bugger. Another long held belief goes tits up.


Don't worry they'll revert to 9 speed once everybody has gone 10 speed lol


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## Cubist (30 Oct 2013)

Crackle said:


> @Cubist what length hoses. I get a choice?


Front are usually 1000mm rear 1700. On my IBIS the front hose is cut to about 800mm and the rear 1500.


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

Well the hose lengths were a bit tight on the cheaper ones, so I've paid a bit more to make sure I've enough length. Well, I haven't pressed the button yet, do that later after tea


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## Cubist (30 Oct 2013)

Crackle said:


> Well the hose lengths were a bit tight on the cheaper ones, so I've paid a bit more to make sure I've enough length. Well, I haven't pressed the button yet, do that later after tea


Don't do it at all

Go to Chain reaction and order a front right hand 100mm XT black brake and a rear XT 1700mm black brake, and when you get to the checkout enter SURVEY10 for a tenner discount.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-m785-disc-brake/rp-prod67208

If you can make the order from £69 for one brake plus some outer cable or whatever to £75, use the code above once, then order the other brake and a fiver's worth of consumables and use code TEN in the basket for another tenner off. XT Brakes with ICE tech pads for 60 an end?

I expect SLX may even be better value!
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-deore-m615-disc-brake/rp-prod108802


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## Crackle (30 Oct 2013)

Cubist said:


> Don't do it at all
> 
> Go to Chain reaction and order a front right hand 100mm XT black brake and a rear XT 1700mm black brake, and when you get to the checkout enter SURVEY10 for a tenner discount.
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-xt-m785-disc-brake/rp-prod67208
> ...



I've already got stuff in the crc basket so I could easily do the discount bit. I could afford the 2nd offer, the XT take me too far over budget. That is a good offer. Well found, though I'm not sure where you're getting that code from.


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## Cubist (30 Oct 2013)

Create an account and they'll send you offers


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## Crackle (31 Oct 2013)

All ordering done. Budget was 1100 but I've gone over by another 100 and I could have spent soooooo much more. Just the stem and bars to get but I might use the bars I have but cut them down a bit. I'll see.


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## lukesdad (1 Nov 2013)

1200  you coulda gota proper bike for that Crax


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## Crackle (2 Nov 2013)

lukesdad said:


> 1200  you coulda gota proper bike for that Crax


S'true, there's a lot of options for 1200. I suppose you end up picking the bike you fancy.


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## lukesdad (2 Nov 2013)

Crackle said:


> S'true, there's a lot of options for 1200. I suppose you end up picking the bike you fancy.


 only joshing


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## Crackle (4 Nov 2013)

OK, everything has arrived, I have some time, I've just sorted everything out of it's boxes, ready to head into the shed and begin the build, dinner first. While I was doing that I stuck everything on the scales. So below is the nearly final spec, with weights of components.


Kinesis Maxlight FF29 Frame -- 1680g -- Tracs bikes - Advertised weight
X-Fusion Slide 29er Forks -- 1900g - Tracs bikes

Superstar XCX 29 Wheels Front/rear -- 1066/1170g - Superstar
Tyres Racing Ralph/Nobby Nic Performance -- 611/579g -- bike Discount.de
Inner tubes Schwalbe SV19a (light) -- 306g -- ebay

Shimano Deore Crankset inc. BB -- 1000g - Rose Bikes 

KMC x9.73 Chain -- 313g - Bike Discount.de

Shimano HG80 cassettee 11-32 -- 286g - CRC

Shimano M591 rear Derailleur -- 294g - Bike Discount.de
Shimano M590 Front Derailleur -- 170g - Bike Discount.de
Shimano M395 Brakes -- 600g - Bike Discount.de
Shimano Deore Trigger shifters -- 300g -- Merlin

Rotors and bolts -- 278g -- ebay
Headset FSA tapered -- 200g -- Tracs bikes --estimated
Seatpost FSA SL280 -- 348g -- ebay
Bars GT -- 291g -- Leftovers from another project
Grips Token -- 130g - CRC

Seat QR Superstar -- 47g -- Superstar
Headset Spacers Superstar -- 16g -- Superstar
FSA Star nut and cap -- 23g -- ebay
Madison Flux saddle -- 293g -- ebay
Deda Dog fang -- 10g -- ebay
Lizard Skin protector -- 16g --ebay
Stem Superstar Laser 100mm 5deg rise --140g -- Superstar

Cables and bits -- 100g -- ebay

Predicted weight for the build is just over 11kg, which is good as I didn't have the money to go super light but if you did, you could probably get this to around the 10kg mark.

Don't ask me what was going through my head when I ordered the lightweight inner tubes, I don't know.

I tried hard to keep to the budget I'd initially set which was 1100. Hence I didn't go for the brake bargains Cubist posted further up. I could have done it cheaper if I'd gone for a cheaper transmission and tyres but there are compromises and then there are compromises. So 1208 is the final cost. Undoubtedly there are a few things forgotten but not much.

Right, dinner over, I'm off to the shed....


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## VamP (5 Nov 2013)

Is he still in the shed?


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## Crackle (5 Nov 2013)

VamP said:


> Is he still in the shed?


No, I only really started today, was busy sorting the shed so I could use it.

Anyway hit a snag first thing. The bb Thread on the non-drive side has some swarf and slight damage. I can't get the cup to catch. I spent some time looking at it but I'm not going to risk anything. just about to take it back to Tracs to see if they can just clean it out with the right tool. Such is life.


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## VamP (5 Nov 2013)

lukesdad said:


> Don't worry they'll revert to 9 speed once everybody has gone 10 speed lol


 
Will it be more expensive tho?


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## Cubist (5 Nov 2013)

How brave are you? You can ***** carefully****** use an old BB cup to chase the threads clean.


Crackle said:


> No, I only really started today, was busy sorting the shed so I could use it.
> 
> Anyway hit a snag first thing. The bb Thread on the non-drive side has some swarf and slight damage. I can't get the cup to catch. I spent some time looking at it but I'm not going to risk anything. just about to take it back to Tracs to see if they can just clean it out with the right tool. Such is life.


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## GrumpyGregry (5 Nov 2013)

@Crackle i hope we will be getting the full-on photojournal record of the build a la cubist.


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## Crackle (5 Nov 2013)

Cubist said:


> How brave are you? You can ***** carefully****** use an old BB cup to chase the threads clean.


I know but not in this case. It needed the full intervention of one of these







He started out trying to chase it out with an old steel cup. I thought he'd done it at first and was impressed because when I looked at it I didn't think it could be done that way. I've chased threads out before but this swarf was well stuck and the first thread partially uncut Which is why I decided not to chance my arm and take it over and lucky I did too. Once he'd got the swarf out, it still wouldn't take, so he needed the tap on it to re-thread the beginning.

Tracs to the rescue though and BB cups now in and I am much relieved if a trifle frustrated not to have got anywhere today and no more time to really get stuck in until tomorrow afternoon. Still the dog got a 20 minute walk he wasn't expecting.

Edit: And not brave when it comes to BB's and headsets. Experience has taught me it's expensive to muck up.


GrumpyGregry said:


> @Crackle i hope we will be getting the full-on photojournal record of the build a la cubist.



I'll do my best but he's set the bar high.


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## lukesdad (5 Nov 2013)

VamP said:


> Will it be more expensive tho?


Probably


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## Crackle (6 Nov 2013)

OK: So the first thing to do is make sure no one can nick the components while your back is turned. If you don't have one of these, they're available online or from your local dog re-homing kennel.





Bottom bracket cups installed with 2.5mm drive side spacer for a 73mm bb shell and clamp on dérailleur




With the crankset fitted and it needs a bit of force to go through the cups, fit the other crank and insert the tensioner but not too tight,




Crankset on I bolted the front dérailleur onto the frame parallel to the chainwheels and lined up with the guide. Final adjustment will come later.





Rear dérailleur attached with the stop bolt the right side of the hangar 




Rear cassette on and lockring tightened




Next brakes are fitted and gears and levers fitted to the temporary bars and stem









Front wheel slotted in to check brake alignment and thru axle adjusted so it tightens closer to the fork




As seen here





And that's currently where we're at. Next job is to swop the brake cables to operate the same as UK brakes, as the brakes came from Germany and to shorten the hoses as they are in the way of me sorting the gear outers out. I just came in for lunch and to re-read Cubists advice on that.


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## fossyant (6 Nov 2013)

Looking good !


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## Crackle (6 Nov 2013)

So into the unknown here and cut and swop brake hoses as per Cubist's instructions.

Pushing home the brake hose pin




and olive




Brake and gear cables done








Saddle and wheels on, beginning to look like a bike




Chain and pedals going on









And that was it for today. I was running out of time and light, especially light. I know there's some tools in that shed somewhere! I couldn't leave it in the shed by itself so I've brought it in. It was that or lock the dog in with it.






It's together enough for me to gain some impressions having sat on it. Need more stack height, not too short a stem, maybe with some slight rise but it feels about right. Feels light with more weight at the front.

Made one mistake, which didn't surprise me much. I didn't tighten the olive enough on the rear brake, so pumped all the fluid out the reservoir and didn't notice until too late. So bleed kit needed now but at least I got the front one right. I'll know next time.


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## Crackle (6 Nov 2013)

Finally ordered the stem now. 90mm, 6 degree rise, probably in combination with 20mm of spacers and flat bars, currently 720 wide. I'll probably ride it like that a few times before I make any changes if any are needed.


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## Cubist (6 Nov 2013)

Aesthetically I sometimes struggle with 29er geometry, but that curved downtube and sloping top tube in the small make it look far better proportioned than I would have given it credit for. Love the pics....... mine never had orange in them. Or a dog.


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## Crackle (6 Nov 2013)

Cubist said:


> Aesthetically I sometimes struggle with 29er geometry, but that curved downtube and sloping top tube in the small make it look far better proportioned than I would have given it credit for. Love the pics....... mine never had orange in them. Or a dog.



I'm biased but I agree. I thought the small in particular looked right and in general I thought it was nicely proportioned, some just don't look right. It was this article, posted on another thread, which finally swung the decision for me.

http://www.kinesisbikes.co.uk/small-in-a-big-way-2/

I've gone for a more trail oriented setup with the 120 forks and higher bars but you could easily run this with 80 forks and a long low stem. I'm looking forward to riding it.


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## Cubist (6 Nov 2013)

@Crackle Can you do me a favour and explain how to adjust the syntace QR using the allen key capscrew? I've hit a blank of failure to understand how it works!


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## Crackle (6 Nov 2013)

Cubist said:


> @Crackle Can you do me a favour and explain how to adjust the syntace QR using the allen key capscrew? I've hit a blank of failure to understand how it works!


That arm you turn is a separate item which bolts, via the allen key, onto a Square head. You just unscrew the Allen key, pull back the arm and rotate it the way you need.


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## Cubist (6 Nov 2013)

Thanks! Seems so bloody obvious now.


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## Crackle (8 Nov 2013)

So today was final set up.

I just put the chain on the other day so the cranks didn't spin into my shims when I was sitting on it to check stem length. So today I had to take it back off and shorten it.

Chain on rear large cog and front large chainring. Add a couple of links and that's the length we need.






Re-thread chain and set up gears, sorry no pictures of me turning screws and tightening cables. It was after this that I found I had some mechanical noise and began to investigate, eliminating the cranks first. I discovered that the rear wheel wasn't sitting home properly due to protuberances on the drop out. And the rear hangar was not tight.

Tightening hangar




Filing the droput, rear mech protected.





I've still got some mechanical noise but I think most of it will bed in after a few rides. Next was the steerer tube.
Marking the tube over the top spacer








This is not where you're going to cut as you need a few mm below this. The middle line below is the one I'm aiming for. So, fork clamped front and back and the tube braced (not shown), using the edge of the vice as a guide you can cut. I used to have a metal guide but could I find it...




Once cut, a brief run over with the file with the fork upside down so no swarf goes on the bearing surface and a quick check with a spacer.




The steerer cap will push down on the spacer so it's much more important you drive the star nut in straight to load the bearings evenly. Here is my non patented method for the star nut. Just hit that screwdriver with a hammer. The srewdriver can be 'leaned' to ensure it's going in evenly.




Installed - One day I might buy all the right tools for this. it should be in a bit further but there's a good chance I'll be losing that top spacer once I know I don't need it.




Fork back on, making sure you put the cables the right side of the stem. You can see that the top spacer is just proud.








Final thing to do is put on the Dog Fang (not from a real dog, he's safe).




There mainly because retrieving a dropped chain through this gap normally means flaked paint and a chain splitter. Not to mention swearing.





Some piccies of the ff29 next to my old Marin










I await the stem now which no one had in immediate stock, so probaly early next week before I get that. When I do I shall put it and the bars on and post some final pictures before getting down to the nitty gritty of an actual ride report. I'm also awaiting the bleed kit as no bike shops I went to had one in stock.


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## Cubist (8 Nov 2013)

Bleed kit.....blag a syringe from the vet and a bit of windscreen washer tubing. Undo bleed port on lever reservoir and get an 8 mm ringspanner on the caliper nipple. Madam. Mineral oil in syringe (halfords, fiver) and force fluid in through nipple til it emerges from reservoir. Tighten nipple then reservoir port. Wipe off mineral oil with IPA and go shred.


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## Crackle (8 Nov 2013)

Cubist said:


> Bleed kit.....blag a syringe from the vet and a bit of windscreen washer tubing. Undo bleed port on lever reservoir and get an 8 mm ringspanner on the caliper nipple. Madam. Mineral oil in syringe (halfords, fiver) and force fluid in through nipple til it emerges from reservoir. Tighten nipple then reservoir port. Wipe off mineral oil with IPA and go shred.



Really, I didn't realize you could just buy the mineral oil. I asked in Halfords too as they're website said in stock but they didn't have it. I even made them go search for it. The rest I had. It doesn't matter as it's the stem I'm waiting for which I've now ordered from Superstar after just getting an email from Tredz that they couldn't get the FSA one in stock until the end of next week. So it'll be a 100mm stem now.


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## Cubist (8 Nov 2013)

I'm told the Citroen ATF you get in the car section at halfords is the same stuff, only about a tenner a litre.


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## RWright (8 Nov 2013)

I used Singer Sewing Machine Oil in my Magura Louise brakes. Seems to be working fine. I saw it recommended favorably on several bicycle forums.


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## Crackle (9 Nov 2013)

Well after goggling at the tiny bottle of mineral oil which arrived today, I think I will be examining the alternatives.


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## Crackle (12 Nov 2013)

OK, all done. Stem arrived this morning, so put it on and bled the rear brake and the front as I discovered the front was a bit soft, so must have lost a bit of fluid out of that too. I have to say, the little Shimano bleed reservoir made the whole thing very neat to do, I recommend it 

Here's a few pics, which are not as good as I hoped, I'll see if I can take some better ones sometime but maybe not, my thread updating span is exhausted. I just want to ride it now.






































Off out for a quick shakedown cruise this afternoon and I plan on getting out later in the week, at which point I'll report back on how it rides.


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## lukesdad (13 Nov 2013)

I hope it rides better than it looks


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## Cubist (14 Nov 2013)

lukesdad said:


> I hope it rides better than it looks


 

Never mind what all the others say Cracks, I reckon it looks great.


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## VamP (14 Nov 2013)

I would be interested in the built up weight as well Cracks, when you get a chance to pop it on the scales. Looking really good.


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## Crackle (14 Nov 2013)

VamP said:


> I would be interested in the built up weight as well Cracks, when you get a chance to pop it on the scales. Looking really good.


I will do when I get some decent scales but it's around 11-11.5kg which is what all the individual components added up to when I weighed them and that seems right if I'm comparing it to my steel roadbike but I'll get hold of some scales to double check.

Edit: maybe up that to 11.5-12kg, forgot the pedals.


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## dan_bo (14 Nov 2013)

Well smart. That bottom pics' ace.


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## dan_bo (14 Nov 2013)

Turn them handlebars over.


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## Crackle (14 Nov 2013)

dan_bo said:


> Turn them handlebars over.


I was waiting for someone to say that


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## dan_bo (14 Nov 2013)

Crackle said:


> I was waiting for someone to say that



I can't look at it without thinking of Poirot.


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## theclaud (14 Nov 2013)

Crackle said:


> I was waiting for someone to say that


I was too shy.


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## Crackle (14 Nov 2013)

theclaud said:


> I was too shy.


Wot! Who are you and what have you done with tc?


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## theclaud (14 Nov 2013)

Crackle said:


> Wot! Who are you and what have you done with tc?



We didn't burn her!


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## Crackle (15 Nov 2013)

So today I managed to steal three hours to snaffle a ride at Llandegla. Plan was to do the blue route because I wanted an easy test of the bike so I could get used to it and in case of a build dogtastrophe occuring halfway and because I had only enough time to do that and quick loop of the skills area before needing to be back. It all went swimmingly to plan up until I locked my keys in the car then the day went a bit excrement shaped....

So, never mind that, how did the bike ride: it's definitely a first impressions post this, I 'll need a few more rides before man and machine are one. I didn't start too well with the front wheel sliding a bit on the gravel bends which made me a bit cautious until I remembered I'd left 40psi in both tyres. I left it like that until I got to the top of the climb and then I stopped and let some air out front and back, which was bit guesstastic but...

I set off down and felt reasonably comfortable with the position. I wasn't quite at one with the bike and was scrubbing speed off too much before bends and obstacles, one of the reasons I picked the blue but I managed to get a few sections right and that felt good. Bike feels very tight and quick, needing little input, certainly not ponderous, in fact I forgot it was a 29er. The back end is stiff though, get the position on the bike wrong and the back skits, especially under braking. I need to keep more weight back than I usually do. I might yet change tyres on the back because of that, I'll see.

I also let a bit more air out the front and that seemed to improve things but the sliding was still fresh in my mind and I'll need some time to find the limits of this bike and tyres so didn't really push it. Front suspension is plush. I still actually had feeling in my hands when I finished.

One of the things I was unsure of was getting the bike up off the ground ( I speak here in terms of my limited abilities). I needn't have worried. I managed a few little airs off humps without any difficulty and though there's no real need on the blue, could easily pull a manual, both things much easier than on my old Marin.

In the skills area, the forks easily absorbed the drop offs in comfort. There's a couple of short steep climbs there and I felt the front end lift a bit on them, I'll have to try more to see if I need to alter the stack height.

That was all I took from today, I'll start to fill in the gaps on other rides. So far though, I reckon this is going to suit me once I get more used to it.

Oh, I checked the pressures when I got back. 20 in the front and 25 back, that surprised me. My old Velociraptors would have been flat at those pressures. I'll start at around 30 next time.

Here's the ride

http://app.strava.com/activities/95204148


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## Crackle (13 Feb 2014)

Done a few more rides now, not as much as i'd hoped but a knee problem may see me using the bike more and dropping the running so...

No real changes yet. I've two Nobby Nics on now and that's improved the back end skitting. The Nics still squirm in mud but they clean well and the don't slip when you're transitioning off a bank.

I'll move the bars down another spacer as it's too easy to lift the front end and I might change the bars as these just don't look right no matter what position I put them in.

I can't compare the suspension because previously I didn't have any but having some means I can concentrate on other things besides avoiding bumps. Uphill bumps no longer need a huge wrench to get the front over, the suspension just takes it.

Things finally need a tune up now and I've got some oscillation when braking coming from the front, not yet sure what's causing that.


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