# Alain Kaye 531 frame (single speed conversion project)



## Psyclist (9 Mar 2014)

Found this on the weekend so nabbed it while I could 

It'll be near enough the same sort of build as my old Mercian.

It's 128mm rear spacing, and I've found some flip-flop wheels which only come in 126mm and 130mm.

Anyone know if I can fir either 126 or 130 onto the frame?


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## biggs682 (9 Mar 2014)

@Psyclist where did you find that beauty ??


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## Psyclist (9 Mar 2014)

biggs682 said:


> @Psyclist where did you find that beauty ??



By luck for starters! Pedalpedlar.co.uk. I'd enquired about several frames, but before paying for one from a private seller, I found this and decided I needed it.


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## dave r (12 Mar 2014)

126 mm wheel and add a couple of extra washers/spacers to the axle


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## Psyclist (12 Mar 2014)

dave r said:


> 126 mm wheel and add a couple of extra washers/spacers to the axle



Thanks. Could you link me to some spacers?


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## biggs682 (12 Mar 2014)

Psyclist said:


> Thanks. Could you link me to some spacers?



get down to Wilkinsons and buy a couple of bags of 10 or 12 mm flat washers do same job and cost minimal


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## Psyclist (12 Mar 2014)

biggs682 said:


> get down to Wilkinsons and buy a couple of bags of 10 or 12 mm flat washers do same job and cost minimal



Cheers


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## dave r (12 Mar 2014)

Psyclist said:


> Thanks. Could you link me to some spacers?



As others have said Wilkinsons, B&Q or a local hardware shop, make sure you know what you want first, we're only talking 2mm here, very thin, with it being such a small amount you might find the 126 will fit without any extra spacers.


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## Poacher (12 Mar 2014)

Seconding @dave r here; You probably won't even need the spacers, it'll compress to 126mm without any problem.
I'd guess it was built as a 126mm frame to begin with, and possibly used with a 130mm hub without being deliberately cold-set.
Despite what purists would say (could wind up Dave Yates with this one; he's very keen on keeping the dropouts absolutely parallel and avoiding stress on the frame), it's _fairly_ OK to spring a 126mm frame to insert a 130 mm rear hub - I've done this for more years than I care to remember with my old Bob Jackson tourer.


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## Psyclist (14 Mar 2014)

Got the frame. May buy new 531 decals for the fork and frame. Also getting the headbadge sticker and downtube stickers remade by a friend.


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## SimonJKH (20 Mar 2014)

I do like that frame


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## Psyclist (20 Mar 2014)

SimonJKH said:


> I do like that frame



Thanks!

Got ITM steel bars, quill stem and did have a seatpost but it was the wrong size so have a new seatpost on the way. Got a Campag crank and 47t Campag chainring too. Also ordered a brown Turbo saddle last night. 

Anyone know if Campag do 107mm English threaded bottom brackets? I need one for my new crank.


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## Psyclist (1 Apr 2014)

Got some more parts now which I'll upload soon. My laptop died last week so can't upload pics until I get a new one.
Lined the lugs and have replacement 531 stickers for the frame and fork. Just waiting for my h/t and d/t stickers to be made. Oh, and I installed my Campag 109mm BB. Costly purchase for £50, but I couldn't find any other English threaded BB's near 107mm.


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## Psyclist (16 Apr 2014)

Got new deals for her now. BB fitted and some presta valve caps for finishing touch (one it's built)


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## biggs682 (16 Apr 2014)

come on @Psyclist the suspense is killing


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## Psyclist (17 Apr 2014)

biggs682 said:


> come on @Psyclist the suspense is killing



Not long now!


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## rhm (22 Apr 2014)

Very nice!

Regarding the rear dropout spacing, the reason you want the dropouts to be perfectly parallel is so the axle is straight; skewed dropouts can bend the axle, leading to uneven wear on the cones and sometimes to a broken axle. But to be honest I have not checked this on any bike I've owned. Another thing to consider is wheel dish. When you place your wheel in the dropouts, look to see where the rim ends up between the seat stays. If it's not perfectly centered, you may be able to center it by adding a washer or two to one side of the axles.


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## Psyclist (25 May 2014)

rhm said:


> Very nice!
> 
> Regarding the rear dropout spacing, the reason you want the dropouts to be perfectly parallel is so the axle is straight; skewed dropouts can bend the axle, leading to uneven wear on the cones and sometimes to a broken axle. But to be honest I have not checked this on any bike I've owned. Another thing to consider is wheel dish. When you place your wheel in the dropouts, look to see where the rim ends up between the seat stays. If it's not perfectly centered, you may be able to center it by adding a washer or two to one side of the axles.



Thanks for the info Rhm.


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## Psyclist (25 May 2014)

Got some Panaracer Paselas, a chain and levers now. Shouldn't be long until it's done


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## biggs682 (25 May 2014)

getting there


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