# Complete overhaul or new bike?



## FlyingCyclist (14 Apr 2014)

Hi people. New person on here, I'm a beginner so please don't be too tenchical with me lol

I lost interest in biking a few years ago due to health problems (painful leg ulcers) and I'm just getting back into cycling now.

I have a WestCoast BSA bike. Old I know!!!

Before I gave up cycling, I added some v-brakes (shimano) on the bikes to replace the cantilevers because they were rubbish! I haven't ridden it since installing them so they are not bedded in!

The last time I cleaned it, the hub needed new bearings.

The gears need fixing as they won't change to first gear because the mech is too high. I think I messed them up because I took it apart to clean.

I think the teeth on the cassette and crankset need replacing.

I gave the bike a good wash on Saturday and noticed that there was a little rust? dried on the rear wheel from two of the nipples.

I'm wondering if I should give it a complete overhaul with new parts, or should I buy a new bike? I've been looking at Cyclocross and Road bikes.

Considering these two types of bikes, I have no idea which one would suit my needs. I would do a lot of road biking at home in Yorkshire, but if I take the bike to Scotland, then I would ride on bumpy roads. And tracks (with tarmac in both sides and grass in the middle).

I want to rider faster than I have been doing with this bike. I've ridden to work and it has taken me 1 hour to get there and 2 hours to get home (All hilly on the way home).

I need to get back into cycling again to get in shape and to lose a few stones, I'm only 11stone, but I used to be thin!!!

Thanks

P.S. Last photo showing track (Can get worse than this with patches of tarmac re-done in places). Yes it's an excellent view!



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## ScotiaLass (14 Apr 2014)

Hi, I won't say anything technical because it baffles me 
I got back into cycling on my 8 yr old mountain bike. It was heavy and I was struggling with my health issues.
I made the decision to get a new bike and the difference is just worlds apart! It is light, has hydraulic brakes which has given me more confidence, and as it's a ladies specific frame, it fits perfectly.
I am so pleased I decided to get a new one. I cycle mainly on towpaths, light trails and cycle paths so it was a choice between a mountain bike or a hybrid. I've only ever known mountain bikes so went with that.
If you are going to be on tracks, I'd suggest a hybrid - it will cope with those, plus be faster on the road than a mountain bike. I'm sure you'll get lots of input from others - they helped me with my decision and I'm really happy.
Whatever you decide, try out a few different models at your local bike shop. I've found mine to be nothing but helpful!
Good luck!


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## Roadrider48 (14 Apr 2014)

Adjust the B-tension screw on the derailleur to move it away from the cassette and do a general lube up, then see how she rides.
If you are particularly drawn to a new bike, then so be it.
The cassette doesn't look too bad.


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## HLaB (14 Apr 2014)

Adjust the b screw as said, lube ride and enjoy. One change that may make a faster ride is to put less nobbly tyres on.


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## FlyingCyclist (14 Apr 2014)

B screw? I only have a High and Low screws. Which one should I turn?

I was actually going to mention slicks, but I left it out.

These look ok, but there are a few others, that I could look at. (26"wheel)
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/..._productId_259551_langId_-1_categoryId_242553


I have never had the bike serviced before, so maybe I should get it done? Should I get a full service done? And is £80 too high? On top of cost, I would have to buy new items if they need replacing.


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## I like Skol (14 Apr 2014)

Hi David and welcome to the forum.

How long is a piece of string? You could throw money at putting lots of new parts on that bike and make it work well or you could buy a new one. In my opinion you should do neither, yet!

The bike you have looks quite low budget with some basic components but there is no reason why it shouldn't work ok with the bits it has. Maybe just a new gear cable and adjustments to the low/hi screws on the derailleur (see you tube for an explanation) are all that is needed. The freewheel (it's not a cassette on your bike) doesn't look particularly worn and the beauty of low spec parts is that they will often tolerate higher levels of wear and still work ok.

I suggest you give this bike some TLC and see how you get on with riding for a while. If you love it and don't have any health issues and still have the new bike bug then go for it. The best thing is you can always keep this bike for trundling to the shops or riding to the pub, where you can lock it up without worrying that someone is going to steal your 'best bike' while your back is turned


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## I like Skol (14 Apr 2014)

HLaB said:


> One change that may make a faster ride is to put less nobbly tyres on.



It doesn't have to be about speed, just ease and confidence. They look like a reasonable combination/compromise mixed trail tyre so don't rush to throw them away unless you are going to ride exclusively on tarmac. The best thing is to keep the tyres you have pumped up. Check the sidewalls for the max rated pressure and if it is allowed pump them to around 50-60psi for an easy rolling ride.

EDIT: That view and track look superb, is that your commute you lucky devil? By the way, if you can manage with your current bike for this summer the retailers/manufacturers start to heavily discount this years bikes in the autumn to shift old stock as the next years models start to come out. You can get 30-40% discounts in many cases.


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## HLaB (14 Apr 2014)

I like Skol said:


> It doesn't have to be about speed, just ease and confidence. They look like a reasonable combination/compromise mixed trail tyre so don't rush to throw them away unless you are going to ride exclusively on tarmac. The best thing is to keep the tyres you have pumped up. Check the sidewalls for the max rated pressure and if it is allowed pump them to around 50-60psi for an easy rolling ride.
> 
> EDIT: That view and track look superb, is that your commute you lucky devil? By the way, if you can manage with your current bike for this summer the retailers/manufacturers start to heavily discount this years bikes in the autumn to shift old stock as the next years models start to come out. You can get 30-40% discounts in many cases.


 Hence why I said may


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## shouldbeinbed (14 Apr 2014)

up to you but it looks in decent nick, a few cheap go faster changes could be, switch the quill stem for (dunno the name) a stem post and flatter handlebar mounting bit, it'll make you a bit less sit up and beg. Bar ends to change hand position and stretch you out even more.
From what I can see the cassette looks like you could drop a couple of teeth to a more speed oriented one without losing too much uphill poke.

you could get away with smoother profile tyres, depending on how bad the trail gets, looks pretty ok there but noting your comment.

or

N+1 & keep the BSA as a winter runabout that you'll not worry about getting dirty or salty.

You say you've had it apart for cleaning so check the siting on the downtube of the front mech before adjusting the hi-lo screws, be sure it is running in line with the chain and the right distance from the front cogs, also check the cable is running freely all the way, is tensioned pretty well right, hasn't slipped at all & is threaded into the front mech properly. give it all a good dollop of lube or oil too, just to be sure and then start fine tuning it on the screws & barrel adjustor.
Edit: hi lo screws basically just to limit the chain from jumping off top & bottom cog before anyone picks up my poor phraseology

or N+1


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## FlyingCyclist (14 Apr 2014)

I like Skol said:


> Hi David and welcome to the forum.
> 
> How long is a piece of string? You could throw money at putting lots of new parts on that bike and make it work well or you could buy a new one. In my opinion you should do neither, yet!
> 
> ...



I'll always have health issues for the rest of my life. But if I keep wearing compression stockings and keep walking/cycling then I'll be ok.....hopefully.

Yes, it was around £200 14years ago (approx!!)

I'll do what you say, but should I take it to a bike shop and have it fully serviced? (I wrote this before but message needed approving.)

The only thing I hate about the bike is that it's blooming heavy and I'd rather own a lighter one!




I like Skol said:


> It doesn't have to be about speed, just ease and confidence. They look like a reasonable combination/compromise mixed trail tyre so don't rush to throw them away unless you are going to ride exclusively on tarmac. The best thing is to keep the tyres you have pumped up. Check the sidewalls for the max rated pressure and if it is allowed pump them to around 50-60psi for an easy rolling ride.
> 
> EDIT: That view and track look superb, is that your commute you lucky devil? By the way, if you can manage with your current bike for this summer the retailers/manufacturers start to heavily discount this years bikes in the autumn to shift old stock as the next years models start to come out. You can get 30-40% discounts in many cases.



The tyre pressure for those are 45-60 PSI.

Sadly that view is on a private road in Scotland (Loch Caolisport) on an estate called Ellary. The track runs from one side of the loch to another one just north into Loch Sween.


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## Widge (14 Apr 2014)

Bike looks as though there is still plenty ' O life' left in it yet..............a bit hard to tell for sure from pics alone though. 

Agree with previous posters....................maybe a new stem.....'less sit-up-beg-and wobble' and perhaps (at least) a new rear dérailleur cable. Some slicko tyres may also make a difference ( thinking 'Schwalbe City Jet or similar).

I have just done up a 'shed-bike' not too dissimilar to this with great results. If you can get it riding smoothly now for not too much outlay you will be in a better situation to decide what you want from a NEW bike.


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## FlyingCyclist (14 Apr 2014)

Keep forgetting to add.

Do these prices seem about right?

If I go with the Full Service it'll be £80 but if I need new items, then it'll be more. Would it be worth it at that price, or should I look somewhere else?

http://www.airevalleycycles.com/workshop.php


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## doog (14 Apr 2014)

Great looking frame (I could make a tourer out of that  ) As suggested above, stick some city jets on and it will become quicker. Ask your bike shop if they will do a simple gear service if youre struggling, shouldnt be more than £20. My guess is that you havent put several thousand miles on it since new, so the front mech / cassette etc should be fine.


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## FlyingCyclist (14 Apr 2014)

doog said:


> Great looking frame (I could make a tourer out of that  ) As suggested above, stick some city jets on and it will become quicker. Ask your bike shop if they will do a simple gear service if youre struggling, shouldnt be more than £20. My guess is that you havent put several thousand miles on it since new, so the front mech / cassette etc should be fine.




Lol. Nopeee I haven't put that many miles on the bike lol. But I have neglected washing it and looking after it. The frame is ok, but it really does need a good clean and regreasing/lubing. As I said before when I last took the front apart, there was either ball bearing missing or they were in half!! I put them back in though.

Also I've just found out that both wheel hubs move when the wheel is turning.


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

I took the back wheel off. Had a look at the ball bearings, then put it back together again. I'm just going to take it to my local shop and let them sort it. I need to buy a tool to get the crank off anyway.

I might as well have it 'professionally' fixed instead of myself making a complete mess of it.

I think I've used the wrong sort of grease when I put the headset and front hub together. I used PURE's Bike Grease. When I moved the bike on Saturday, turning the front wheel was stiff. I;m sure it's all down due to the grease I used.


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## Pikey (15 Apr 2014)

If you have the money, in your position I'd be inclined to buy a hybrid or cyclocross bike. Put the money you save on not having old trusty serviced towards it.

Then whilst you are trundling around all happy on your new machine, you can take the other off the road, overhaul it yourself, in your own time as funds dictated.

Then you have the best of many worlds; new bike to play with  an older bike you can use for general use / pub runs and when you get back from riding your new bike you have a bit of fixing and modding of your old bike to look forward to.


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

I've decided to go to a shop this morning and see what they can do. 

I'm not working at the moment (made redundant JUST before Xmas, the swines) and I don't have the money to spend on a new bike. But I should be going back within a month.

I'm off to Scotland on May 10th (where the above photo is taken) and I really want to take the BSA up there for a runaround.


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## John the Canuck (15 Apr 2014)

I like Skol said:


> .................... The best thing is you can always keep this bike for trundling to the shops or riding to the pub, where you can lock it up without worrying that someone is going to steal your 'best bike' ..............



if you're NOT mechanically minded, I'd get the BSA serviced - ride it - if you get keen again - treat yourself to a modern lightweight hybrid

a very good point above ....... stick some panniers on the BSA for shoppi

EDIT ignore the above

TOOK ME 10 mins to upload my post [????] which is now ''out-of-date''


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

Hi John.

I have the bike on the bike rack on the car. Going very soon.
It's highly likely that I'll become interested in riding again, and I'll most likely buy a new bike

10 minutes to upload? Eek!


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## John the Canuck (15 Apr 2014)

David..............not being rude - just trying to help....but sounds as if 
A...you're about to spend far too much on repairs/new bits/tools
B...you are not a DiY'er...........

. when I last took the front apart, there was either* ball bearing missing or they were in half!*! I put them back in though...WTF
Also I've just found oI took the back wheel off. Had a look at the ball bearings, then put it back together again
Also I've just found out that both wheel hubs move when the wheel is turning......cones are loose maybe
I need to buy a tool to get the crank off anyway....why ..? 
turning the front wheel was stiff.....odd if the hubs move
excellent grease is Rock and Roll Bearing Grease

I've just done all the above to a bike i bought
very satisfying - but i had all the tools already

i appreciate money is tight - if you go DIY. then tackle each problem in turn
made a thread for that particular problem only  and get advice how to fix

good luck


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## John the Canuck (15 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> Hi John.
> 
> I have the bike on the bike rack on the car. Going very soon.
> It's highly likely that I'll become interested in riding again, and I'll most likely buy a new bike
> ...



i would get a FIRM idea of the overhaul cost before doing
they 'could' cite poor maintenance/old parts and attempt to replace stuff rather than give a service

10mins of the site refusing to load ...........some message about 'scripts'
i'm ok on grease but crap on IT..............


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

John the Canuck said:


> i would get a FIRM idea of the overhaul cost before doing
> they 'could' cite poor maintenance/old parts and attempt to replace stuff rather than give a service
> 
> 10mins of the site refusing to load ...........some message about 'scripts'
> i'm ok on grease but crap on IT..............



Please be nice to me. Since 2005 I've had problems with leg ulcers which is why I gave up cycling.

I put the bearings back in but I *didn't* cycle again.
I added new brakes but I *didn't cycle again* after I fitted them.


Just been to the shop and it'll cost me £45 unless there's any problems. They said that the freewheel seems fine. And that the front hub seems ok too.

cost me £45 unless there's any problems. They said that the freewheel seems fine. And that the front hub seems ok too.



Edit: Forgot to add that I don't go to the pub or the shops lol

IF I ever go back to where I worked before, (24 mile round trip!) then I would cycle there every day. Only thing is that I'll have to ask where I can put my bike as they stupidly took the bike rack away.


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## John the Canuck (15 Apr 2014)

David

I put the bearings back in but I *didn't* cycle again.
I added new brakes but I *didn't cycle again* after I fitted them.
Just been to the shop and it'll cost me £45 unless there's any problems

no offense intended - just comments following what i did on my latest bike

£45 sounds good for a clean bill of health....................


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

Alright Ok.

I thought it would cost more, but obviously not. Haven't had a phone call yet, so either they haven't began to sort it or they haven't found any problems


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

I'll buy the Schwalbe City Jet tyres too. They don't have any at the shop, but they do at Halfords.

By the way, why do people shy away from Halfords? Why are they so bad?


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## I like Skol (15 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> By the way, why do people shy away from Halfords? Why are they so bad?


The mechanics (and I use the term very loosely) are often not as competent as you would expect them to be. You are fine if you are just buying parts and know what you want but don't count on getting good advice or service.


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

I like Skol said:


> The mechanics (and I use the term very loosely) are often not as competent as you would expect them to be. You are fine if you are just buying parts and know what you want but don't count on getting good advice or service.



Ok. Thanks. Don't think I'll buy a bike from them then.


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## John the Canuck (15 Apr 2014)

I like Skol said:


> The mechanics (and I use the term very loosely) are often not as competent as you would expect them to be. ............



whilst i agree completely it is only fair to note they are ''not mechanics''
but shop assistants who have received no formal training, but only some ''in-house'' courses i expect
[maybe wrong] 
on the other hand cyclists, by the nature of their hobby involvement, soon pickup a wealth of practical knowledge


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## Big Nick (15 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> By the way, why do people shy away from Halfords? Why are they so bad?



Probably something to do with the fact that their bike 'mechanics' are largely fettling your bike whilst its on a bike stand behind the till whilst simultaneously manning the till and serving customers with their only tools being a multitool hanging from their belt


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## FlyingCyclist (15 Apr 2014)

Big Nick said:


> Probably something to do with the fact that their bike 'mechanics' are largely fettling your bike whilst its on a bike stand behind the till whilst simultaneously manning the till and serving customers with their only tools being a multitool hanging from their belt



I can understand that lol I guess they're only good if YOU know what you're buying as Skol says.


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## Nigelnaturist (16 Apr 2014)

Big Nick said:


> Probably something to do with the fact that their bike 'mechanics' are largely fettling your bike whilst its on a bike stand behind the till whilst simultaneously manning the till and serving customers with their only tools being a multitool hanging from their belt


Not the experience at Pontefract, though till bit is right.
David, I have a bike that is identical to the one you show in the picture, just a different brand, and this has been badly painted over.
I acquired it in quite a poorly state, no saddle, no chain, brakes didn't work, sorted the gears, cleaned and lubed cables and the previously mentioned, there is a problem (loose) with the rear wheel on its bearings/hub and was badly buckled. So most things are fixable without to much work.
Halfords bikes are that bad, just have a poor reputation of being set up non to well, their Carrea Subway has good reviews and can be had from around the £200 mark when they have reductions.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...productId_1001840_langId_-1_categoryId_165534


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## User16625 (17 Apr 2014)

Nigelnaturist said:


> Not the experience at Pontefract, though till bit is right.
> David, I have a bike that is identical to the one you show in the picture, just a different brand, and this has been badly painted over.
> I acquired it in quite a poorly state, no saddle, no chain, brakes didn't work, sorted the gears, cleaned and lubed cables and the previously mentioned, there is a problem (loose) with the rear wheel on its bearings/hub and was badly buckled. So most things are fixable without to much work.
> Halfords bikes are that bad, just have a poor reputation of being set up non to well, their Carrea Subway has good reviews and *can be had from around the £200 mark when they have reductions.*
> ...



Even with reductions, you would get far more value for money by eating it. Best go to a proper bike shop.


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## Nigelnaturist (17 Apr 2014)

RideLikeTheStig said:


> Even with reductions, you would get far more value for money by eating it. Best go to a proper bike shop.


I went to Bill Hargreaves in Dewsbury and ended up with a Viking.


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## FlyingCyclist (18 Apr 2014)

As I'm buying the Schwalbe City Jet tyres, what rim size should I get?
I have 2 options to choose from either 1.5" or 1.95".


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## FlyingCyclist (18 Apr 2014)

Gone for the 1.5 option


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## FlyingCyclist (19 Apr 2014)

ScotiaLass said:


> Hi, I won't say anything technical because it baffles me
> I got back into cycling on my 8 yr old mountain bike. It was heavy and I was struggling with my health issues.
> I made the decision to get a new bike and the difference is just worlds apart! It is light, has hydraulic brakes which has given me more confidence, and as it's a ladies specific frame, it fits perfectly.
> I am so pleased I decided to get a new one. I cycle mainly on towpaths, light trails and cycle paths so it was a choice between a mountain bike or a hybrid. I've only ever known mountain bikes so went with that.
> ...



I may decide on a hybrid if I carry on cycling. Thank you for the suggestion 

I can always change the tyres between slicks and light-knobbly ones.


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## FlyingCyclist (19 Apr 2014)

Well it's been 5 days since I took my bike to Aire Valley Cycles and they still haven't done any work to my bike!!

#GettingAnnoyed


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## John the Canuck (19 Apr 2014)

do you have a firm price yet after their inspection [ if done.?].?


if not, i'd take it elsewhere.....doesn't sound good service for any later problems IMO


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## FlyingCyclist (19 Apr 2014)

They said £45.

I sent an email on thursday and they replied "_We are quite busy with repairs due to it been Easter holidays but it should be done in the next 3 to 4 days. Thanks_"

I sent another email today when I should expect it, but haven't had a reply.

I'll leave it til Monday and if I don't hear anything from them, I'll most likely go in or ring up. If they haven't done anything then, I'll tell them I'm go and collect it.....and take it elsewhere.


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## Widge (19 Apr 2014)

Hi David..........

I don't think you'll be disappointed by City Jet tyres......I have 1.5 in on my 'shed-bike' and they seem to tick all the boxes regarding durability/vfm/performance.
They ARE pretty heavy though (if lighter than most 'nobblies') so 1.5 inches is most definitely the way to go to notice any real advantage.


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## FlyingCyclist (19 Apr 2014)

Widge said:


> Hi David..........
> 
> I don't think you'll be disappointed by City Jet tyres......I have 1.5 in on my 'shed-bike' and they seem to tick all the boxes regarding durability/vfm/performance.
> They ARE pretty heavy though (if lighter than most 'nobblies') so 1.5 inches is most definitely the way to go to notice any real advantage.



Ok. Thanks. I'm just hoping that they'll go on easily because I'm used to foldable tyres and not rigid ones.


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## John the Canuck (20 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> ...............I'll leave it til Monday and if I don't hear anything from them,............



David.......................prob closed this Monday..


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## FlyingCyclist (20 Apr 2014)

Nah it's open


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## FlyingCyclist (21 Apr 2014)

I have the bike back. It cost me £49 for a service.

I've put the Schwalbe tyres on. Haven't been out on it yet because since taking the wheels off, only one side of both brakes work. Going to look on Youtube to see how to fix them.


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## FlyingCyclist (21 Apr 2014)

I've come to realise that I have to be careful using my v-brakes. Only a light pull on the brakes and they stop me. I nearly tipped over when I pressed my front brake!!!!

I'll also have to be careful riding with the City Jets' because I'm used to a thick surface area than ONLY 1cm !!!!! Both tyres are pumped to 35PSI. I might release some air..... maybe.


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)

OMG David..............................City Jets are designed to run at about 80 psi!!!!

Maybe you could get away with 60-65 psi?...........

But LESS than 35 is asking for trouble. Both tyres 'could' possibbly squirm their way off the rims the moment you take a corner at speed. I don't know..........I don't know anybody who's tried it! If you survive the accident...you will likely have pinch-punctures a-go-go.

PLEASE RETHINK YOUR TYRE PRESSURE PHILOSOPHY 

Seriously!

w


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)

PS.....the recommended tyre pressure is on the side of the tyre in large raised print...and all over the web and the manufacturers website.

THE WHOLE POINT OF CITY JETS is that they are profiled to a narrow(ish) contact point and pumped to near 'road' tyre pressures. You will still have plenty of traction on-road....way more than if you were to use softer 'nobblies'. If you wanted to use such low pressures (presumably for harsh and highly technical conditions off-road traction) I would never have recommended a road specific tyre for you.

I DO hope you are not trolling us?


w


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## Rickshaw Phil (21 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> I've come to realise that I have to be careful using my v-brakes. Only a light pull on the brakes and they stop me. I nearly tipped over when I pressed my front brake!!!!


Would I be right in thinking that when you changed to V brakes you only changed the brakes and not the levers as well? Canti brake levers aren't compatible with V brakes as the amount of cable they pull is different and they make the brakes over-sensitive as described.

With the tyres, they will work best if pumped up properly. Schwalbe usually have a minimum and maximum pressure marked on the sidewall.


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## FlyingCyclist (21 Apr 2014)

Widge said:


> PS.....the recommended tyre pressure is on the side of the tyre in large raised print...and all over the web and the manufacturers website.
> 
> THE WHOLE POINT OF CITY JETS is that they are profiled to a narrow(ish) contact point and pumped to near 'road' tyre pressures. You will still have plenty of traction on-road....way more than if you were to use softer 'nobblies'. If you wanted to use such low pressures (presumably for harsh and highly technical conditions off-road traction) I would never have recommended a road specific tyre for you.
> 
> ...



Like I'm going to pump the tyres to high, I'm already finding it difficult pumping them to 35psi !

I've never had slicks before.

Why would you say that? I don't troll websites and I never will!!!!



Rickshaw Phil said:


> Would I be right in thinking that when you changed to V brakes you only changed the brakes and not the levers as well? Canti levers aren't compatible with V brakes as the amount of cable they pull is different and they make the brakes over-sensitive as described.
> 
> With the tyres, they will work best if pumped up properly. Schwalbe usually have a minimum and maximum pressure marked on the sidewall.



Nope I changed the levers too.


The tyres say to INFLATE TO 85 PSI MAXIMUM 6.0 Bar (No idea what bars are because I don't use them)



Edit: I'll sort tyres out tomorrow.


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)

Hi David..........I've looked around at some images of your bikes original brakes and-as Phil points out - they were canti brakes. If you didn't change the levers to 'v' brake compatable levers you will have 'all-or-nothing' brakes with no proper modulation...........but this would have been picked up by whoever serviced it I'm sure.....If so-then it is (hopefully) just a case of letting the new pads 'bed in' from new. New pads can be a little grabby when new. I hope this the case.

w


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)

No...I wasn't SERIOuSLY suggesting you were trolling! .....I was just keen to stop you riding with seriously under inflated tyres! They can be dangerous and unpredictable. 85psi is a recommended maximum (ie-more than twice where you you have them at the moment. This sort of pressure is what makes them such a quick and easy rolling road tyre so to inflate them to just 30pssi or so would negate a lot of their advantage. I use them myself. Only trying to help. 

I'm also not suggesting you are over inflating them......quite the opposite in fact.

w


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## Rickshaw Phil (21 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> Nope I changed the levers too.


In that case, assuming you were sold the correct ones it sounds like you just need to get used to them.



DavidS said:


> The tyres say to INFLATE TO 85 PSI MAXIMUM 6.0 Bar (No idea what bars are because I don't use them)


Same as the Marathons I have on my bike. Personal preference here is to run 65psi front, 70psi rear. If you have car type (Schraeder) valves on your tubes a car foot pump will manage those pressures, but a better solution is to get a good track pump.

(Incidentally, a bar is a measure of atmospheric pressure and is roughly 14.5psi)


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## FlyingCyclist (21 Apr 2014)

The photos I've posted only show v-brakes. On the brake levers they say the'yre v-brakes and by shimano. I threw the only cantilevers out 2 years ago.

I have a electric car tyre pump with a gauge. Will this do?

I just can't spend any more money on anything else right now since I'm not working.


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)

Yup...a little over over 65psi is how I like to keep mine too......a good compromise for some of the rougher lanes around here. 85psi is certainly hard and quick...but a bit tooth rattly! I wouldn't like to have to put that amount of air in with just a mini-pump. Track pump is the way to go and they don't usually cost too much either. Most garages warn people away from using their high pressure lines.....health and safety issues I suspect....plus....garage lines are not really designed for such high pressures..........but my friendly local doesn't bat an eyelid when I go for a top-up. High pressure lines are a bit brutal though.


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)

DavidS said:


> The photos I've posted only show v-brakes. On the brake levers they say the'yre v-brakes and by shimano. I threw the only cantilevers out 2 years ago.
> 
> I have a electric car tyre pump with a gauge. Will this do?
> 
> I just can't spend any more money on anything else right now since I'm not working.



Hi David...No....I meant I've been looking at other pictures of your make of bike on the web......

Electric pump worth a go...I've never used one.......it may not go quite high enough though. Let us know?


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## FlyingCyclist (21 Apr 2014)

Ah ok Widge.

Yep I'll let you know.


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## Rickshaw Phil (21 Apr 2014)

I haven't tried an electric tyre pump so I don't know for certain but I can't see why it wouldn't work as long as you made sure it didn't over inflate them.


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## Widge (21 Apr 2014)




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## Rickshaw Phil (21 Apr 2014)

Just a thought: some of Shimano's brake levers have a power modulator. Have a look at this instruction sheet.

I don't know what exact model levers you have but it may be worth checking if they are this adjustable type and if so, how they are currently set up. You may be able to set them to be a bit less sharp.


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## FlyingCyclist (21 Apr 2014)

Will the tyres be ok for gravel?


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## Nigelnaturist (22 Apr 2014)

@DavidS I have took my road bike down worse, so with a bit of caution you should be fine, just bear in mind you won't have anything like the traction if it gets a little slippy.


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## Widge (22 Apr 2014)

Hi again David.....
(Hope you're not still cross with me!)

Your new tyres are designed to a give 26'' wheel type mtb or ATB bike a better road-riding/urban/rough tarmac capability...and they are pretty good at it. I think they they are easily capable of some cycle-track/towpath/hard-pack riding providing you are careful enough and ride within their limitations. Take care on looser gravel...but other than that......................you should be ok.

Have fun!

W


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## FlyingCyclist (22 Apr 2014)

Widge said:


> Hi again David.....
> (Hope you're not still cross with me!)
> 
> Your new tyres are designed to a give 26'' wheel type mtb or ATB bike a better road-riding/urban/rough tarmac capability...and they are pretty good at it. I think they they are easily capable of some cycle-track/towpath/hard-pack riding providing you are careful enough and ride within their limitations. Take care on looser gravel...but other than that......................you should be ok.
> ...



Of course not. I think it was my fault to jumping to conclusions. Maybe I'm just a little scared cycling with such thin tyres, but I'm sure I'm being silly and I'll be fine.
I haven't pumped the tyres up yet, but I will soon. I'll let you all know if I can pump the tyres using an electric car tyre pump.


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## FlyingCyclist (22 Apr 2014)

Widge said:


> Hi David...No....I meant I've been looking at other pictures of your make of bike on the web......
> 
> Electric pump worth a go...I've never used one.......it may not go quite high enough though. Let us know?



Just used the electric car pump to inflate the tyres. It worked like a dream. I inflated the front to 60 and the back to 70PSI.

Had a little run afterwards and OMG the difference they make. Apart from feeling every bump on the road I have noticed a big difference that I don't need to pedal as much. For the moment I'm pressing lightly! on the brakes.


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## FlyingCyclist (23 Apr 2014)

Going to Malham Cove this afternoon where its flat. Hopefully this weather will hold.
But it is a long way to go just to ride 5 miles or so.

Just been looking at photos of where I'm going and it's quite a long gravel track. If I take it easy, I'll be ok.


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## Steven bates (17 May 2014)

Arghhh help please
Recently had a new chain , cassette , gear shifters , cables replaced on my 8 month giant road bike , but first ride out and chain is slipping when on large front and on little ring rear 
Is this a common problem and is it a quick fix as bike shop had bike for 3 weeks to replace parts above


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