# Devon in November: robjh's autumnal microtour



## robjh (7 Nov 2016)

I have a few free days, the weather is not _too_ bad for the time of year, so I've set off for a 4 night mini bike tour in the West Country. Mainly Devon, but it started in Dorset and may well reach Somerset too.
Like Theresa May I'm keeping my plans close to my chest, as I have only a vague idea of where I'm going, but unlike Hm government, my route map be revealed in the next few days. Currently though I'm envisaging visiting two coasts two moors and maybe a gorge.
Stage one began today with a train to London then the 11.05 from Waterloo to Dorchester, taking advantage of South West Trains superb value 14.95 advance fare. Poole Harbour positively glistened in the sunshine￼.


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## robjh (7 Nov 2016)

I arrived in and left Dorchester at 2pm, and left via Poundbury (Prince Charles's pet new suburb in a pastiche of traditional local styles, and IMO an improvement on your bog standard 1990s estate). There was a stiff climb to the obelisk of the Hardy Monument, rewarded with sweeping views of the sea, the Isle of Portland and Chesil Beach. Despite the sun though it was cold, with a biting wind.
I followed the coast from here on, through Abbotsbury, Bridport and Lyme Regis. it was a beautiful ride until it got dark, but Dorset boasts some serious hills, and every village seemed to be followed by a long slow climb that had me down to 3mph at times. Rarely has 39 miles taken so long - even ignoring breaks I averaged just below 10mph - but with luggage, that's my excuse.
It was fully dark by Lyme Regis but the ride along quiet roads under a starry sky and a sliver of low moon was quite something too, like a little night ride to the coast all on your own.
I'm now in Beer youth hostel - strangely they seem to have no youths in them these days - and I'm very impressed. Now to work out tomorrow's itinerary.

Poundbury





Hardy Monument






Coastal view


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## ChrisEyles (7 Nov 2016)

I did a bit of work on the SW coast path between Beer and Branscombe last summer - it is beautiful! Sounds like a cracking trip. Feeling the itch to plan a mini tour myself now...


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## robjh (7 Nov 2016)

ChrisEyles said:


> I did a bit of work on the SW coast path between Beer and Branscombe last summer - it is beautiful! Sounds like a cracking trip. Feeling the itch to plan a mini tour myself now...


Well today has been great but there is some big rain on the way tomorrow
After a downpour on Dartmoor things may not look so rosy!


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## robjh (8 Nov 2016)

Just seen a cliff fall along the coast from Sidmouth


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## Ian H (8 Nov 2016)

I'll be going from Berks down through Dorset later in the month, finishing here in Devon. It's my friend's turn to organise the route, so I've no idea where we'll end up.


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## robjh (8 Nov 2016)

Day two started with a bit of faffing on the phone. I tried booking a bed for tonight in a couple of hostels on Dartmoor but they were fully booked - presumably with school or outward-bound type groups. I found a place instead at Moretonhampstead, near but not on the Moor. Then I decided I'd better book my other 2 nights too to avoid any other surprises. So I now have my route more or less planned out. But all that took time and I got away at 10 rather than 9 as I'd hoped.
I took the steep and narrow road through Branscombe to Sidmouth, and a cafe stop. it was a very busy place, bigger than I expected from the map, and had loads of cafes and at least 4 bakeries - my kind of place. While there I saw a section of red sandy cliff break off down the coast, sending plumes of red dust out over the sea - photo in my previous post.
After another punishing climb out of Sidmouth I cut across country to Exford just south of Exeter, and crossed over the Exe after Topsham. I then took a series of hilly and tortuous lanes through places such as Dunchideock and Doddiscombsleigh, and finished with the steepest and stupidest route over the hills to Moretonhampstead, when the B Road would have been much quicker. I arrived in the rain and failing light, and was pleased to find a well-stocked kitchen at the hostel where I made a large hot coffee. I am the only guest in this 14-bed place but I have WiFi radio 4 and the kitchen to myself. what more could I want?
Progress has been so slow on these tiny lanes though that I may need to change my game tomorrow and even take a few numbered roads.

Bike at the seaside





A rainy Devon lane (one of the bigger ones)


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## Elybazza61 (9 Nov 2016)

Nice write up;look forward to the rest.

Better not show this to the better half as we were thinking about going there some time but sge doesn't like hills so this would put her off

Can't say I can agree about Poundbury,looks just like any other Georgian pastiche estate(with a few balcony's to jazz it up).


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## Tilley (9 Nov 2016)

Great write up. I spent a year in Dorchester many moons ago and have fond recollections of the ride up to Hardys monument and around Abbotsbury. I have also taken in parts of Dartmoor and Exmoor both on and off road. However my riding has been curtailed by a chest infection so can only await your next instalment. Enjoy the trip and keep up the good work.


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## ChrisEyles (9 Nov 2016)

Great to hear you're having a good time  Those sections are all local-ish to me (I'm based near Exeter) - I have definitely optimised my route when I head out to Moretonhampstead to avoid some of the worst hills! Hope you didn't get too soaked in the showers today.


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## robjh (9 Nov 2016)

Day three began with the shock of the news from America, as Trump's win was announced just as I switched the radio on at 7.30.
It started off as a good morning for cycling, very breezy but with bright sunny patches that highlighted all the autumn colours. I took small lanes from Chagford to South Zeal that ran almost along the edge of the open moorland. everything looked great at this time.
After that I stuck (almost) to my resolution to choose bigger roads, as I needed to get some miles in to Exmoor.
The serious rain and hail started around lunchtime, and caught me for 90 minutes as far as South Molton, where the sunbriefly reappeared and I dived into a cafe. There followed a long, long slog up onto Exmoor, but the ride over the open moor to Withypool in the twilight was one of the highlights of the day. I arrived at Exford at 6, in darkness, and am now in the youth hostel, feeling recovered after a hot shower and big bowl of pasta. it was only 59 miles but my legs are telling me it was much much more.

Some pictures from the sunny morning, near Chagford


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## Ian H (10 Nov 2016)

Excellent photos. I was near there the other day and it was difficult to follow the tarmac because of the leaves.


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## robjh (10 Nov 2016)

Ian H said:


> Excellent photos. I was near there the other day and it was difficult to follow the tarmac because of the leaves.


Agreed - it's very autumnal indeed at the moment. Also getting through a lot of brake rubber on the descents and will need new pads once I'm home.
The good news is that the weather is much better today despite an early drenching.

Sunny Watchet harbour


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

Day four started with a sharp cloudburst as I was leaving Exford. Exford is actually in Somerset so the last two days of my mini--tour will be in the latter county rather than Devon.
By the top of the moor though the sun was coming out, making it a magnificent ride with clear views across the Bristol Channel to South Wales.
I detoured into Minehead out of curiosity, then stuck with the coast through Blue Anchor and Watchet.The going was easier today on better roads and with a tail wind, but there was still plenty of climbing at every headland or turn inland.
Next came the Quantocks whose heather-covered flanks loomed invitingly as I rode up from Minehead. I chose a minor road to cross them from Crowcombe to Over Stowey. I should turned back when I saw the 1-in-4 sign but didn't. I made it about 3/4 of the way, then stopped for a stretch and a quick breather, and found I couldn't push off on the bike as the road was just too steep, so I pushed for about 100 yards. The top however was spectacular, woods and heath in its full autumn glory.
I had to go through Bridgwater, which was the least pleasant part of the ride. Too much traffic and a town that just looks like it's seen better days ad doesn't invite you to linger. Not that I really had the time to - it was 3.30 and I had another 20 miles to go to Cheddar (and with sunset about 4.15).
This part was easy and almost all flat, as it crosses the Somerset Levels and I got to Cheddar Yha just before 6.

Exmoor





Crossing the Quantocks








On the Somerset Levels


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## lutonloony (11 Nov 2016)

nice pics, must get out and see more of devon myself!!


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## Fab Foodie (11 Nov 2016)

Great write-up and photo's Rob. Due to a very busy week workwise I've only just been able to sit down and read and enjoy!
Much of that is home ground for me, I was Exeter born and bred, but my father was from S. Dorset/Devon borders, my mother from Moretonhamstead and they lived and met in Axminster, most of my extended family are still around there.
I agree about Dorset, having done a cycling weekend from Weymouth and also cycled along that coast from London to Exeter many moons ago I can attest to its hilliness, but the views are worth it. Climbing out of Lyme Regis sticks in my mind. Devon also is very lumpy and I think rarely gets the recognition for tough cycling country that it deserves. The routing from Topsham up to Moretonhamstead has hills aplenty at up to 25% to make a grown cyclist weep! Exmoor and the Somerset levels I know less well, but you've whetted my apetite. Also means I need a better camera than an i-phone.....
Nice stuff Rob, thanks for sharing!


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

lutonloony said:


> nice pics, must get out and see more of devon myself!!


Good idea. My advice is choose the sunny days, and check the gradient profile of the route you're planning!


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

I'm now London-bound on a train but here's a view from this morning. Glastonbury Tor seen from the Mendips


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## videoman (11 Nov 2016)

Great photos and trip report, just wondered what make and model of bike are you riding.


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## Grant Fondo (11 Nov 2016)

lovely, really lovely pictures. The ride from Poole over to Cerne Abbas and back round the Purbecks is one that never leaves you... total magic any time of year


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## Dave 123 (11 Nov 2016)

Nice trip Rob. 
You must be losing your fitness, Devon is fairly flat.....


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## Grant Fondo (11 Nov 2016)

if anyone is planning a dorset ride next year the road from Corfe Castle to Studland is biblical, then back to Kimmeridge for some Le Tour hills....epic!


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

Day five. I left Cheddar at 9 under a clear blue sky, and a bright sun that was burning the last traces of frost from the roofs and fields. I had the Gorge almost to myself, and in all its hundreds of parking spaces I saw just two cars
Up on the top of the Mendips I detoured slightly to see the view south to Glastonbury, the Levels and the hills beyond. Mist still hung over the low lands, but was lifting as I watched.
From the Mendips I dropped down northwards past the picturesque Chew Valley reservoir, and after a few last hills reached Keynsham and rode into Bath along the Bristol-Bath cycleway. I'd read a lot about this route and it didn't disappoint, but I guess roadies in the know must nip off before it turns into a canal towpath for the last couple of miles.
I only had time for a basic foot and bike wander around Bath, but it is an impressive place, and the centre was very busy with mostly well-heeled crowds, as well as a conspicuous number of homeless and beggars.
Then at 3.13 I was on the train back to London.

Cheddar Gorge (poor photo as very shady at that time in the morning)





View from the Mendips





Bristol-Bath cycle path (by the Avon Valley steam railway at this point)





Tourist shot in Bath - Poultney Bridge


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> Nice trip Rob.
> You must be losing your fitness, Devon is fairly flat.....


Are you confusing it with Cambridgeshire Dave? On yer bike


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## Grant Fondo (11 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Day five. I left Cheddar at 9 under a clear blue sky, and a bright sun that was burning the last traces of frost from the roofs and fields. I had the Gorge almost to myself, and in all its hundreds of parking spaces I saw just two cars
> Up on the top of the Mendips I detoured slightly to see the view south to Glastonbury, the Levels and the hills beyond. Mist still hung over the low lands, but was lifting as I watched.
> From the Mendips I dropped down northwards past the picturesque Chew Valley reservoir, and after a few last hills reached Keynsham and rode into Bath along the Bristol-Bath cycleway. I'd read a lot about this route and it didn't disappoint, but I guess roadies in the know must nip off before it turns into a canal towpath for the last couple of miles.
> I only had time for a basic foot and bike wander around Bath, but it is an impressive place, and the centre was very busy with mostly well-heeled crowds, as well as a conspicuous number of homeless and beggars.
> ...


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

videoman said:


> Great photos and trip report, just wondered what make and model of bike are you riding.


It's a Dawes Sardar, the steel version from about 2003. At the time it was a fairly similar spec to the Galaxy but with 26" wheels, and forks that allow for (though I don't currently have) disc brakes. I've got some lower gearing on it now but otherwise I think it's pretty much as it came.
It's a heavy beast but very comfortable for long distances and with lots of luggage.


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## Grant Fondo (11 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Day five. I left Cheddar at 9 under a clear blue sky, and a bright sun that was burning the last traces of frost from the roofs and fields. I had the Gorge almost to myself, and in all its hundreds of parking spaces I saw just two cars
> Up on the top of the Mendips I detoured slightly to see the view south to Glastonbury, the Levels and the hills beyond. Mist still hung over the low lands, but was lifting as I watched.
> From the Mendips I dropped down northwards past the picturesque Chew Valley reservoir, and after a few last hills reached Keynsham and rode into Bath along the Bristol-Bath cycleway. I'd read a lot about this route and it didn't disappoint, but I guess roadies in the know must nip off before it turns into a canal towpath for the last couple of miles.
> I only had time for a basic foot and bike wander around Bath, but it is an impressive place, and the centre was very busy with mostly well-heeled crowds, as well as a conspicuous number of homeless and beggars.
> ...


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> Great write-up and photo's Rob. Due to a very busy week workwise I've only just been able to sit down and read and enjoy!
> Much of that is home ground for me, I was Exeter born and bred, but my father was from S. Dorset/Devon borders, my mother from Moretonhamstead and they lived and met in Axminster, most of my extended family are still around there.
> I agree about Dorset, having done a cycling weekend from Weymouth and also cycled along that coast from London to Exeter many moons ago I can attest to its hilliness, but the views are worth it. Climbing out of Lyme Regis sticks in my mind. Devon also is very lumpy and I think rarely gets the recognition for tough cycling country that it deserves. The routing from Topsham up to Moretonhamstead has hills aplenty at up to 25% to make a grown cyclist weep! Exmoor and the Somerset levels I know less well, but you've whetted my apetite. Also means I need a better camera than an i-phone.....
> Nice stuff Rob, thanks for sharing!


Who knows, I could even have bumped into distant members of the Foodie clan without realising. I didn't notice anyone with your fine features though
As for the hilliness, I think it was actually harder than my trip round the Highlands in the summer - there the climbs are long and the descents are long, and there are gaps in between, but in Devon those savage little hills just keep on coming at you, and I would say that there is a bigger percentage of 20%ers than on your average Scottish ride. Of course it may have been a bit easier on the legs if I'd stuck to those B-roads, but I'm a sucker for the little off-the-beaten-track byways that get you right out into the country. There's a balance to be struck there somewhere.


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## robjh (11 Nov 2016)

Re. the photos @Ian H, @Fab Foodie , @lutonloony @videoman , @Grant Fondo,
they're just taken on a smartphone, and now I'm home this is the first time I've seen them on a big screen so I'm rather struck by how blurry and washed-out some of them are. They looked alright on the phone, without my glasses!

I've got some others taken on a camera but even there I use a compact - I keep thinking about getting an SLR but suspect that for ease of carrying I would still end up taking the small one on bike tours.


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## Grant Fondo (12 Nov 2016)

Bulbarrow Hill Dorset...not a big climb but epic


robjh said:


> Re. the photos @Ian H, @Fab Foodie , @lutonloony @videoman , @Grant Fondo,
> they're just taken on a smartphone, and now I'm home this is the first time I've seen them on a big screen so I'm rather struck by how blurry and washed-out some of them are. They looked alright on the phone, without my glasses!
> 
> I've got some others taken on a camera but even there I use a compact - I keep thinking about getting an SLR but suspect that for ease of carrying I would still end up taking the small one on bike tours.


its worth getting a bigger bag for... got a Canon 100d with a Sigma f1.4 30mm on, it aint that big but bloody hell its sharp!


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## lutonloony (12 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Good idea. My advice is choose the sunny days, and check the gradient profile of the route you're planning!


I just assume there will be hills, the odd steep one just gives you a feeling of acheivement( or is it near death experience ) might even have a go at the 50 chevron challenge next year


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## videoman (12 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> It's a Dawes Sardar, the steel version from about 2003. At the time it was a fairly similar spec to the Galaxy but with 26" wheels, and forks that allow for (though I don't currently have) disc brakes. I've got some lower gearing on it now but otherwise I think it's pretty much as it came.
> It's a heavy beast but very comfortable for long distances and with lots of luggage.



Thought it was as I have the same bike in the same colour, just awaiting a new set of wheels after being knocked off it a couple of years ago by another cyclist coming the other way on a cycle path!!!

I still have a few other bikes to ride though.


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## Tilley (12 Nov 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> Nice trip Rob.
> You must be losing your fitness, Devon is fairly flat.....


Unless of course you are around Porlock.


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## Tilley (12 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Day five. I left Cheddar at 9 under a clear blue sky, and a bright sun that was burning the last traces of frost from the roofs and fields. I had the Gorge almost to myself, and in all its hundreds of parking spaces I saw just two cars
> Up on the top of the Mendips I detoured slightly to see the view south to Glastonbury, the Levels and the hills beyond. Mist still hung over the low lands, but was lifting as I watched.
> From the Mendips I dropped down northwards past the picturesque Chew Valley reservoir, and after a few last hills reached Keynsham and rode into Bath along the Bristol-Bath cycleway. I'd read a lot about this route and it didn't disappoint, but I guess roadies in the know must nip off before it turns into a canal towpath for the last couple of miles.
> I only had time for a basic foot and bike wander around Bath, but it is an impressive place, and the centre was very busy with mostly well-heeled crowds, as well as a conspicuous number of homeless and beggars.
> ...


I rode up Cheddar gorge for the first time on my recumbent during the Tasty Cheddar Audax earlier this year. Although the weather was poor and my progress was slow the view from the recumbent was the best I have ever experienced.


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## Crackle (12 Nov 2016)

Nice tour Rob. Tough riding country. I've only done a bit in that area and remember the hills being ceasless, which is rewarding but hard.


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## Ian H (12 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Re. the photos @Ian H, @Fab Foodie , @lutonloony @videoman , @Grant Fondo,
> they're just taken on a smartphone...



They look fine on this laptop. 
I tend to just use my phone for pics on the move. Current phone is 5mp. Partner's one is 13mp. I suppose the lens is the limiting factor.


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## Dave 123 (12 Nov 2016)

Tilley said:


> Unless of course you are around Porlock.




Which isn't in Devon. It's on the Somerset levels isn't it?


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## Tilley (12 Nov 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> Which isn't in Devon. It's on the Somerset levels isn't it?


Ok so it is on the Somerset north Devon border but it definitely isn't on the levels.


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## Dave 123 (12 Nov 2016)

Tilley said:


> Ok so it is on the Somerset north Devon border but it definitely isn't on the levels.


I knew that. Only teasing!


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## Tilley (12 Nov 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> I knew that. Only teasing!


And I rose to the bait.


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## Dave 123 (12 Nov 2016)

Tilley said:


> And I rose to the bait.



When we picked the new tandem up in July we went for a short 5 mile ride in and around Ashbrittle which may just be in Devon. Just over 5 miles of extreme hilly!


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## robjh (12 Nov 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> When we picked the new tandem up in July we went for a short 5 mile ride in and around Ashbrittle which may just be in Devon. Just over 5 miles of extreme hilly!


Yes but you had 4 legs pedalling, so it must have been easier


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## Hill Wimp (12 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Day four started with a sharp cloudburst as I was leaving Exford. Exford is actually in Somerset so the last two days of my mini--tour will be in the latter county rather than Devon.
> By the top of the moor though the sun was coming out, making it a magnificent ride with clear views across the Bristol Channel to South Wales.
> I detoured into Minehead out of curiosity, then stuck with the coast through Blue Anchor and Watchet.The going was easier today on better roads and with a tail wind, but there was still plenty of climbing at every headland or turn inland.
> Next came the Quantocks whose heather-covered flanks loomed invitingly as I rode up from Minehead. I chose a minor road to cross them from Crowcombe to Over Stowey. I should turned back when I saw the 1-in-4 sign but didn't. I made it about 3/4 of the way, then stopped for a stretch and a quick breather, and found I couldn't push off on the bike as the road was just too steep, so I pushed for about 100 yards. The top however was spectacular, woods and heath in its full autumn glory.
> ...


I spent a lovely week in June this year in Somerset. A couple of the memorable days were spent on the Somerset Levels with @coffeejo where I really got into bird watching. We spent a fab hour in a bird hide with the most amazing view of Glastonbury Tor and a huge selection of our feathered friends. I also cycled around one of the RSPB reserves which was gorgeous .


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## Dave 123 (12 Nov 2016)

robjh said:


> Yes but you had 4 legs pedalling, so it must have been easier




I wasn't pedalling if I'm honest


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## Dirk (12 Nov 2016)

I'm nipping up to Somerset next week with the caravan, from North Devon, to recce the area for a cycling week next Spring. Always wanted to cycle the Somerset levels.


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## robjh (12 Nov 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> I wasn't pedalling if I'm honest


Poor Mrs 123. If I see her I'll tell


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## robjh (13 Nov 2016)

User13710 said:


> Great write-up and photos Rob. I had thoughts of moving to Dorset once, but in the end I decided the hills would put me off cycling ever again!


You just have to be selective. I think you'd enjoy the downwards-pointing ones


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## uphillstruggler (2 Dec 2016)

Dirk Thrust said:


> I'm nipping up to Somerset next week with the caravan, from North Devon, to recce the area for a cycling week next Spring. Always wanted to cycle the Somerset levels.



I have a mate lives down that neck of the woods, the levels seem to have an atmosphere all of their own. I like it alot


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