# What size MTB wheel to get



## Shadow121 (26 Mar 2020)

Hi everyone

I would like to get a rough terrain bike, mountain bike seems the most rugged.
I want it for Forrest roads, littered with loose stones, gravel and muck, but pot
holes are my worst issue.

I don’t want to spend a lot, seeing bikes with 26, 27.5 inch wheels in the second hand market,
are any of these wheel sizes hard to get to obsolete, so I can avoid them.

I like a smaller wheel to save weight on both tyre and rim material and even frame,
not climbing a hillside or going in a swamp so the smaller wheels should do me well.

Any advise welcomed, thanks


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## Drago (26 Mar 2020)

No danger of 26 becoming obsolete for decades. If you find one that tugs your rug don't be afraid to go for it.


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## Globalti (26 Mar 2020)

Yes people rode around on 26" wheels for 30 years before the industry persuaded them they were no good and bigger was better.


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## Shadow121 (26 Mar 2020)

Thanks @Drago and @Globalti 
Thats good news, I like to keep weight down and really don’t want to spend
the money on a nice light bike, as it’s only for the next few months and maybe
again next winter to keep me fit till better weather shows up.

How about taking it to the extreme, would a wide 24” be common,
I ask as my daughter had one I was going to modify until she reclaimed it,
did like riding it though, just needed a bit longer seat tube.


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## Globalti (27 Mar 2020)

No if you're an average-sized adult, look around for a bike that's the right size for you. A 24" wheel bike is for smaller riders and you'd be constantly messing around with things like that seatpost, a proper can of worms. 

If you want something affordable to mess around on, have a look around for bike recyclers as they will have a big selection. I don't know where you are but there's a household recycler in Wigan, which has a massive selection of refurbished and recycled bikes going for small cash.

Whatever you do, don't go and buy a £99 supermarket special. Cyclists call them BSOs or Bike Shaped Objects because they're so appallingly bad they don't qualify as bicycles.


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## figbat (27 Mar 2020)

I'd look for something second-hand - you'll get a better bike for your money if you choose well. I have picked up a couple of bikes for around half their new price where both were barely-ridden and box fresh.

26" wheels are losing favour to some extent, although as above they aren't going away any time soon. This shift in fashion may help depress S/H prices.


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## Threevok (27 Mar 2020)

I only ride 26 and build mine myself.

The only shortages I am finding are :

New frames : although there's been an emergence of frames that have sliding dropouts, that can take 26 or 27.5 wheels. I got my eye on one right now. Mrs V will kill me 

Tyres: some specialist brands and models are hard to get, although you can usually get an equivalent tyre from another supplier. I had to shop around to get a replacement Ice Spiker Pro Evo Snakeskin tyre at a realistic price. I could not get a Panaracer RiBMo in 26 at all, so I switched to Lifeline Essential Commuter (and saved a bundle to boot).

Forks : some newer models are not available in 26. You could still run 26 on them, but the look and rake may be a little odd. I've actually seen some kids round here ride 27.5 up front and 26 rear 

Some extras like mudguards can be a bit tricky to find. I took me ages to find a second set of Top Peak Defenders for 26. Although I'm sure the ones for 27.5/29 would have been OK, if not a bit odd looking


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## wafter (27 Mar 2020)

From what you want it for it sounds like the bigger the better, however as others have said 26" is historically common as muck and will be around for a long time yet. While it'd be nice to buy a brand new 29er I suspect this would be disproportionately costly compared to buying something older, used and with smaller wheels. 

Tbh I was sorely tempted by a £60 Gumtree steel-framed rigid 26"-wheeled Dawes MTB near me recently; just to allow me to get out on the trails... fortunately(?) it was a bit big as the mrs would probably kill me if I added another to those already in the kitchen!


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## fossyant (27 Mar 2020)

27.5 and 29 are the current standard. Tyres are now harder to find in 26" - ie. you'll have to do with what you can get, where you can get what fancy dandy tyre you want in the bigger sizes.

Then there is the wider back ends of through axel, and of course boost. 

For keeping costs down, but getting a good machine, try and keep an eye out for 90's classic MTB's with no suspension. They will do what you want without the added complication of suspension to look after, and cheap suspension is rubbish and heavy.


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## Shadow121 (27 Mar 2020)

wafter said:


> From what you want it for it sounds like the bigger the better, however as others have said 26" is historically common as muck and will be around for a long time yet. While it'd be nice to buy a brand new 29er I suspect this would be disproportionately costly compared to buying something older, used and with smaller wheels.
> 
> Tbh I was sorely tempted by a £60 Gumtree steel-framed rigid 26"-wheeled Dawes MTB near me recently; just to allow me to get out on the trails... fortunately(?) it was a bit big as the mrs would probably kill me if I added another to those already in the kitchen!


Like a fool I sat till a Specialised was sold beside me, I even knew the owner,
but allowed the hybrid I have would do, but another hit and run leaving a cyclist in
hospital on my road led me the woods this past months, walking as it would destroy
my rims which only have 30mm tires, road tires, and my frame is currently unmarked,
thus my reason for something with much wider tires.

All my current bikes are second hand, but am finding the Cube brand here in Ireland
to be well priced in comparison to the second hands so far.


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## Shadow121 (27 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> 27.5 and 29 are the current standard. Tyres are now harder to find in 26" - ie. you'll have to do with what you can get, where you can get what fancy dandy tyre you want in the bigger sizes.
> 
> Then there is the wider back ends of through axel, and of course boost.
> 
> For keeping costs down, but getting a good machine, try and keep an eye out for 90's classic MTB's with no suspension. They will do what you want without the added complication of suspension to look after, and cheap suspension is rubbish and heavy.


@fossyant what is this boost thing, I see it on the adds, also see a + mentioned.

I don't plan on spending much on a 26” bike, given the newer sizes will be easier
to get wheels for, so far the only ones I see are too expensive for what they are,
I too don’t want a front suspension, which narrows the availability even more,
a good fat tire will keep me happy.


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## Shadow121 (27 Mar 2020)

wafter said:


> From what you want it for it sounds like the bigger the better, however as others have said 26" is historically common as muck and will be around for a long time yet. While it'd be nice to buy a brand new 29er I suspect this would be disproportionately costly compared to buying something older, used and with smaller wheels.
> 
> Tbh I was sorely tempted by a £60 Gumtree steel-framed rigid 26"-wheeled Dawes MTB near me recently; just to allow me to get out on the trails... fortunately(?) it was a bit big as the mrs would probably kill me if I added another to those already in the kitchen!


Seems cheap for a Dawes, at least there would be something to build on.


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## Shadow121 (27 Mar 2020)

Threevok said:


> I only ride 26 and build mine myself.
> 
> The only shortages I am finding are :
> 
> ...


I am a fan of mudguards, would rather have odd looking than none.


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## Shadow121 (27 Mar 2020)

Globalti said:


> Yes people rode around on 26" wheels for 30 years before the industry persuaded them they were no good and bigger was better.


Exactly, marketing, for If bigger was better the two stroke dirt bikes are well and truly behind the times.


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## fossyant (27 Mar 2020)

Boost is wider front and rear. Front has moved from 100mm axel's to 110mm, and boost rear can be 148mm. Normal MTB is 135mm or 142mm with through axels. Loads of standards at the moment, so stick with an older bike.


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## Shadow121 (27 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> Boost is wider front and rear. Front has moved from 100mm axel's to 110mm, and boost rear can be 148mm. Normal MTB is 135mm or 142mm with through axels. Loads of standards at the moment, so stick with an older bike.


Good to know, the very wide tire would be super comfortable, but then again
what if they drop the boost sizing, either way it’s not going to be in my budget.


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## fossyant (27 Mar 2020)

Shadow121 said:


> Good to know, the very wide tire would be super comfortable, but then again
> what if they drop the boost sizing, either way it’s not going to be in my budget.



You can get a 2.4" tyre in most 'old fashioned' MTB's - I have On One's Chunkey Monkey 2.4 x 26 on my 90's Diamond Back


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## Blue Hills (27 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> No danger of 26 becoming obsolete for decades. If you find one that tugs your rug don't be afraid to go for it.


good to hear. trust you are right - i have a 26inch wheel expedition bike and hope to get some strong quality wheels to replace the passable ones it came with.


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## Blue Hills (28 Mar 2020)

Threevok said:


> Some extras like mudguards can be a bit tricky to find. I took me ages to find a second set of Top Peak Defenders for 26. Although I'm sure the ones for 27.5/29 would have been OK, if not a bit odd looking


Thanks for your long post.

On mudguards.
These?
https://www.rosebikes.co.uk/sks-germany-sks-bluemels-mountain-range-mudguard-set-719221?product_shape=black&article_size=26"

Not necessarily to be bought from there of course, though their prices, and availabilty of other "old school" stuff can offset the deivery charge to a fair extent.


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## wafter (28 Mar 2020)

Shadow121 said:


> Like a fool I sat till a Specialised was sold beside me, I even knew the owner,
> but allowed the hybrid I have would do, but another hit and run leaving a cyclist in
> hospital on my road led me the woods this past months, walking as it would destroy
> my rims which only have 30mm tires, road tires, and my frame is currently unmarked,
> ...


Ah, we've all done it - hindsight and all that! 

I'd tread carefully re. the Cube - the seem to have a reasonable reputation but there's no such thing as a free lunch and there must be a reason why they're cheaper 



Shadow121 said:


> Seems cheap for a Dawes, at least there would be something to build on.


Indeed... rightly or wrongly I figured it should at least not be complete and total rubbish!


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## Shadow121 (28 Mar 2020)

wafter said:


> Ah, we've all done it - hindsight and all that!
> 
> I'd tread carefully re. the Cube - the seem to have a reasonable reputation but there's no such thing as a free lunch and there must be a reason why they're cheaper
> 
> ...


Hindsight, there’s just no telling when the likes of cycling or any form of outdoor
exercise may be banned, so maybe after all I didn’t miss much, at least I will now
have plenty of time to watch out for a suitable bargain.
I think there was Three bikes in total in the neighbouring County for sale a few days
ago on the Donedeal website, which is where I find all my bikes.
Locally, same old bikes doing the rounds, never seen so little happening this past
Three weeks.


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## wafter (28 Mar 2020)

Shadow121 said:


> Hindsight, there’s just no telling when the likes of cycling or any form of outdoor
> exercise may be banned, so maybe after all I didn’t miss much, at least I will now
> have plenty of time to watch out for a suitable bargain.
> I think there was Three bikes in total in the neighbouring County for sale a few days
> ...


This is true, although I think the current restrictions illustrate how important the government (thankfully) considers exercise. Without an outlet I can see instances of domestic violence rocketing tbh. I just hope that they don't see fit to take significantly further action due to those taking the piss..

Totally agree with your perspective about sitting on your hands - I'm doing the same re. a gravel bike and have witnessed similar to what you describe in all the usual places I'm looking; hardly surprising really since nobody should be travelling / interacting, as is required to complete a sale.

Good luck - maybe there will be some bargains to be had once this has all subsided somewhat


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## MichaelW2 (28 Mar 2020)

For decades, every MTBer knew that 26" wheels were better in every way than anything else. Only beardy tourists rode 700c wheels over mountains. Only really beardy tourists ever rode 650b.
Unable to handle the truth, MTBers were forced to rename these wheel sizes so they could be spoken, and they have now been recognised as the best wheel size.

I ride 70Oc and 26" on and off road. 27.5 is a sweet size hampered by lack of commuting tyres available in bike shops.

The most important factor was that 26" was a universal global standard from low end to high end. That standard has been broken.
There is a practical limit to the number of different wheel diameters that a bike shop can support and so quality 26" rubber is becoming less well supported but is still a good choice.


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## Shadow121 (28 Mar 2020)

wafter said:


> This is true, although I think the current restrictions illustrate how important the government (thankfully) views exercise. Without an outlet I can see instances of domestic violence rocketing tbh. I just hope that they don't see fit to take significantly further action due to those taking the piss..
> 
> Totally agree with your perspective about sitting on your hands - I'm doing the same re. a gravel bike and have witnessed similar to what you describe in all the usual places I'm looking; hardly surprising really since nobody should be travelling / interacting, as is required to complete a sale.
> 
> Good luck - maybe there will be some bargains to be had once this has all subsided somewhat


Actually seeing the slump in availibility of bikes, and other items I would buy off farms
painted a picture beyond what I could see in my locality, got me thinking all wasn’t as rosey
as made out to be, and others were not going to be exposing themselves and families to harm
or worse.


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## Shadow121 (28 Mar 2020)

MichaelW2 said:


> For decades, every MTBer knew that 26" wheels were better in every way than anything else. Only beardy tourists rode 700c wheels over mountains. Only really beardy tourists ever rode 650b.
> Unable to handle the truth, MTBers were forced to rename these wheel sizes so they could be spoken, and they have now been recognised as the best wheel size.
> 
> I ride 70Oc and 26" on and off road. 27.5 is a sweet size hampered by lack of commuting tyres available in bike shops.
> ...


Completely agree, I always found I ran out of torque a lot less on 26” wheels,
a bigger wheel rolls easier, but it slows down more in any given gear when pressured,
this then requires more effort from the power source than a smaller wheel in the same
gear.
I sold a tractor to a man, he put bigger wheels on, ripped the splines off
the shaft in the gearbox, the tractor shuddered taking off in the same gears
starting off in first as my exact same tractor, which pulled far bigger loads
for a far longer period of time, my gearbox is as good as new, I could hear
the added pressure destroy the other gear box because of the larger wheels.

I also like being as low as possible to avoid the wind when cycling, going up
makes no sense to me.


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## MichaelW2 (28 Mar 2020)

Shadow121 said:


> Completely agree, I always found I ran out of torque a lot less on 26” wheels,
> a bigger wheel rolls easier, but it slows down more in any given gear when pressured,
> this then requires more effort from the power source than a smaller wheel in the same
> gear.
> ...



You could argue that for 24".
26" was a historical accident because the 1970's California clunkers were based on cruiser style bikes.
I prefer to match wheel side to rider size, proportionally. Big riders can easily manouvre with 29". Small riders find them a real handful and their frame geometry has to be bodged to fit large wheels.


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## ChrisEyles (28 Mar 2020)

26 and 29 inch wheels definitely have a different feel to them. As always best thing to do is try before you buy - some bikes I've instantly clicked with, others have left me cold and it's difficult to say exactly why in either case looking at the specs of the bike on paper. 

I personally prefer 26" to 29" for the most part (not tried 27.5" but they're closer to 26" than 29" despite the misleading name so I'd probably like them). 

You don't need to spend a lot to get a decent 90s rigid MTB, and they're great fun. I can ride pretty much everything on my 90s Marin that I ride on a more modern bike, albeit more slowly & carefully. 

Anything around 2" should do you for tyre width, the more you'll be using then in the mud the knobbier, while slickers obviously better for tarmac.


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## Shadow121 (28 Mar 2020)

MichaelW2 said:


> You could argue that for 24".
> 26" was a historical accident because the 1970's California clunkers were based on cruiser style bikes.
> I prefer to match wheel side to rider size, proportionally. Big riders can easily manouvre with 29". Small riders find them a real handful and their frame geometry has to be bodged to fit large wheels.


I think so too, am not a large rider and understand well how the bigger frame
and wheel setups require more input and energy, that’s why I was even considering
24”, but lost that bike as daughter got it, would have like to lengthen the seat tube,
add a longer stem if required just to see how it went, can’t do that now.


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## screenman (28 Mar 2020)

The tracks around these parts are nicer to ride on my 29er, but then again Clipstone is great for the 26. Riding position the same on both as I am very particular about that.


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## SkipdiverJohn (28 Mar 2020)

No reason to pay more than £20-30 for a useable 90's 26" rigid MTB. It's the only type I ride, I'm not interested in suspension or 27.5" or 29ers. It doesn't matter that very few new 26" rigids are being made now. Steel frames don't wear out so it makes no odds if you are riding around on something 30 years or more old, so long as the mechanicals are OK. I've got a couple of decent quality lugged Reynolds steel 26ers that didn't break the bank. My 1991 Raleigh was £15 and I picked up a 1990-ish Dawes for £8. Cycling can be as cheap or as expensive as you want it to be....


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## Drago (28 Mar 2020)

I've got one of each,26, 27.5, 29, and can confirm it's all bollards. None of them are any better _all round _than the others for MTB use.


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## Ming the Merciless (28 Mar 2020)

One that fits the bike you have?


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## ChrisEyles (29 Mar 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> No reason to pay more than £20-30 for a useable 90's 26" rigid MTB..... Cycling can be as cheap or as expensive as you want it to be....



Very true and great advice for anyone looking to get into cycling on or off road (ok maybe not DH riding!) - though I'd add the caveat that I'd expect to spend the same again on new tyres/brake blocks/cables in most cases, and maybe a couple of hours to fit these and generally fettle gear indexing, canti brake centering etc (all easy enough to do, and lots of people here on the forum will be happy to advise if you've not done any of these jobs before). Still a great price for a quality, if somewhat unfashionable bike.


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## SkipdiverJohn (29 Mar 2020)

ChrisEyles said:


> though I'd add the caveat that I'd expect to spend the same again on new tyres/brake blocks/cables in most cases...…...... Still a great price for a quality, if somewhat unfashionable bike.



Personally, I've had to replace very little on the majority of my secondhand purchases. Unless cables are frayed and in danger of breaking, I just lubricate them rather than replace. If the brake blocks generate enough friction to work effectively, I don't touch those either unless they are worn down low.
As regards replacing tyres, it depends on what I intend to use a bike for. If it's longer rides further from home, I fit puncture-resistant Schwalbes even if the tyres the bike came with were still serviceable. However the take-off don't get binned but get used for local trips on a hack bike. On an MTB, if the knobbly tyres hold air and appear structurally sound and not about to explode I just keep using them until they wear out. I see no benefit to replacing tyres that still have wear life in them if I'm only using them primarily for gravel/dirt surfaces.
For me, I don't care much for modern cycling fashion, so I deliberately own and ride all the types of bikes that the mainstream cycling magazines and manufacturers will tell you are obsolete! The fact that the unfashionable status means many can be acquired for peanuts is a bonus. I've gone past the age where I care about fashion status in the eyes of others.


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## ChrisEyles (29 Mar 2020)

Good for you - must admit I get a bit OCD and feel happier with new brake blocks & tyres, but really like you say if they're still functional you may as well get some more use out of them!


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