# Seiran 24 - 507 or 520 rims



## GuyY (31 Jan 2010)

I've just put in an order for a Seiran 24 from Challenge (via London Recumbents). On my previous recumbent (10yrs on a Haluzak Horizon) I never went above 40mm (40-406 + 40-559) width tyres. The 507's seem to start at 40mm and get wider and the 520's are all (as far as I can tell) narrower. Do I go for 507 or 520 rims? In terms of use I'd use the bike for commuting but would be looking to join a local CTC. Does access of replacement tyres and tubes affect the choice? I'm 5'7" hence being recommended to go for the Seiran 24 rather than the taller Seiran 26.


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## Alf (1 Feb 2010)

I don't know anything about 24" rims or the tyres available but I would definitely recommend doing what you suggest - researching the tyres available for each of the possible rims. 

I recently bought a Seiran SL with 26" rims and had to make a similar choice. In my case it was 559 or 571 rims. I went for the 571 because I really wanted to use 23mm tyres. 559 tyres don't seem to go less than 28mm (although I have heard that 25mm ones are made). I was also able to try 559 rims with 28mm Continental Gatorskins because the bike only needs a slight adjustment to the brakes to allow either rim size and I happened to have 559 rims with these tyres on another bike. I can't say there was a huge difference but the 23mm tyres definitely feel a bit nippier and no less comfortable.

Alf


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## ufkacbln (1 Feb 2010)

Limited choice of tyres.... My Airnimal has 520 rims, and tyres are a problem as few stockists have them. Basically you have a choice of three or four racing tyres and one off road.

However these do include Panaracer Pasela and the Schwalbe Stelvio

The 507 has a wider range, butthey tend to be less sporty. Marathon plus for example.

So from my experience I would suggest that a fast bike like the Sieran would benefit from the 520 rims and the sportier tyres. 

Airnimal use 520 on the Chameleon and 507 on the Joey.... googling reviews on these invariably end up discussing tyre options and may be of help


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## GuyY (1 Feb 2010)

well the consensus so far is for the more sporty 520 rims. If push really comes to shove I can always
get some disk braked 507 wheels made up for winter use and switch to 520's for the summer. Many thanks for your input.


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## GuyY (2 Feb 2010)

Alf,
can I ask how tall you are and how you find stooping & starting as a consquence of your height. The advice was that at 5'6" a 26" Seiran would be too tall for me possibly because of how back the seat is angled, but as I've been cycling a recumbent for 10yrs I might get away with a taller 559 based Seiren.

Guy


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## Alf (3 Feb 2010)

Hi Guy

Sorry for delay. I am just over 6' 1" but my legs are quite short for my height (inside leg about 33.5" - crotch to floor, x-seam about 41"). My Seiran SL seems to be a different but similar frame from the Seiran: see the Challenge website (superlight section vs touring section). Whether it makes much difference or not I am not sure. The height of the bike is no problem for me at all and there is probably a bit of a margin as regards how easily I stop and start, reach the ground, etc. 

One thing that does not come out on the challenge website in relation to the SL is the fact that the seat angle you choose (not adjustable as with the Seiran) affects the reach quite a bit and probably also the boom extension because you sit in a slightly different bit of the seat depending on the angle. Anyway, I went for the most laidback angle (which is not very laidback really) and found that the boom had to go as short as it could to fit my legs. In fact the hole in the boom that the front derailleur cable comes out of is right back at the boom clamp. Also the cranks are much closer to the front wheel than they would be if the boom was further out.

Just goes to show that the various options on seat angle especially can have unexpected consequences. Mine is absolutely fine but I turned out to be close to the edge. Perhaps when all said and done, you had better try before you buy, Guy.

Alf


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## GuyY (3 Feb 2010)

Many thanks for the info. Sounds like at 5'6" my Seiran 24 is the correct choice based on your reply and the guy at London Recumbents. Unfortunately without going over to Holland try/buy wasn't possible. Took the same risk when I ordered my Haluzak back in '98 and that worked out fine......so fingers suitably crossed !


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## arallsopp (9 Feb 2010)

I've got a Furai running on 24s, and that takes 520s front and rear. The (unsuspended) front is VERY sensitive to pinch punctures, so keep it topped up.

Tyre choice is pretty good IMHO. It helps that there are a few 'bents around taking this size now, and the airnimal is a good source of replacement rims as well as rubber.

I'm using Schwalbes front and rear (presently a durano and a stelvio) and have no issues with durability or grip.

In the dry.


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## GuyY (12 Feb 2010)

Thanks for the info. As I've committed to 507's I'll keep to 507's untill later in the year and then probably fork out for some 520's. That should give me the choice for winter/summer & wet/dry riding....a bit expensive as an approach but if I spread the cost over a year or so it shouldn't be too painful. My main priorities for the new bike will be a small pannier (any ideas?) and good bike lights for cycling the lanes in winter. The 520's sneak in in third place..well actually....fourth place as I need Shimano 324 pedals as well.


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## arallsopp (12 Feb 2010)

Why not lace the winter rims to a dynamo hub. Good light for the dark nights, always ready to go, etc. The SON20 and Cyo 60 work nicely together, and give you full brightness from wobbling speeds upwards.

Pannier wise, I use an aeropod on the seatback. Lightweight, and faster with it on than off.


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## GuyY (15 Feb 2010)

Hi arallsopp,

I've just had looked at the aeropod...curious! I like the reflective side strip. I assume the reflector/tail light is bought separately and easily fixed on ? By the way is the mirror on your right had side a specialist item or generally available ?

Guy


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## arallsopp (15 Feb 2010)

Hello again! 

The tail light is indeed a separate purchase, and is a 2009 Busch & Müller Toplight Flat, powered from the SON dynamo up front. Good little unit, with twin reflectors and a surprisingly bright LED in the middle. It has a standlight that keeps her lit for a few minutes after stopping, which prevents you getting flattened whilst waiting at lights. Other than that, no flash modes, no on/off button, no batteries... You move, it lights. You stop, it counts to 180, and turns off. 

All this simplicity makes it affordable, lightweight, and robust. Worth noting that the casing isn't entirely waterproof, and that whilst it filled on LEL (which was extreme circumstance to be fair), that didn't seem to bother it. 

Hardest bit of the installation was running a cable (I used speaker wire) all the way from the front wheel to the top of the seat back. It terminates with two spade connectors, that allow me to quickly lift the aeropod off, should I need to keep it with me (cafe, etc). From experience, however, the most valuable / portable thing I carry on rides is the 'bent itself, so the pod only really comes off when I need to pack bike and self into a car. Worth keeping those spade connectors pinched tight, as if they do come loose you'll lose the rear light and gain a wire in the rear spokes...

There's a little hoop on the back of the aeropod for clipping in a light, and as the B&M only comes in a rackmount I used (yes) zip-ties. For a permanent installation, I'd route the cable through the bag rather than tucking under it, but I haven't got around to this yet. Initially, I didn't want to make a hole in the bag if avoidable, as the pod is sold as 'waterproof'. With the benefits of hindsight, I'd make that 'extremely water resistant', and note that whilst it held out longer than every item of clothing I owned, was no match for Scotland.

The little mirror is another B&M product, cyclestar Art 901. They make a few variants, and this is the 'long stem' version. Information on everything I'm saying at http://www.bumm.de/index-e.html 

Incidentally, if you do end up fitting a mirror, try to keep it as close to the bars as possible. The temptation is to have it angled outwards as far as possible (like a wingmirror on a car). IMHO, this ends up with it being knocked out of position by parking / doorways / fixing punctures / lousy overtakers / etc. Instead, use it as you would a car's rear view mirror, so that it stays within the protective cradle of the cockpit.

Goodness. That was more than I meant to write. Sorry!


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## GuyY (16 Feb 2010)

Arallsopp,

> ...more than I meant to write

I do that all the time at work which is odd as I used to be an editor and therefor should now better ! I'll investigate the mirror and look into SONO hubs. If I'm quick I might get a Sono hub in place before I take delivery of the bike. Again, many thanks for your informative reply.


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## arallsopp (16 Feb 2010)

No worries.

Will probably help if I mention 'Schmidt's Original Nabendynamo' here, and advise that both my bikes came with a SON option, and both added more to the price than getting a new rim, spokes, SON hub, tyre, rotor, tube, tape + build service at my LBS.

I suspect the bikes (one a challenge, one an HPV) came with two wheels, and so the various suppliers quoted the cost on top for getting the hub, spokes, rim, tape, build, plus a service charge to swap the tube + tyre.

End result is I have a spare front wheel for either bike, pumped up, ready to go. Can give good peace of mind when you ding a rim and think the bike will have to be retired until you can fix it.

YMMV, but I recommend getting a few quotes for the aftermarket addition before committing.


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