# Puncture repair patches...



## Arjimlad (1 Jul 2012)

Basic Question... which way round to put them on ? The little orange and black jobbies..

Do you put the black spot onto the glue, or the side which is all orange ?



Thank you in anticipation...


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## smokeysmoo (1 Jul 2012)

Solve the problem with THESE


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## Brommyboy (1 Jul 2012)

The solution goes on to the tube, after being roughened with sandpaper so it will key in. When tacky, the patch is put on to the glue, foil side down (foil removed first, of course!). The patch is pressured on with the fingers and finally stretch out so as to split the paper, which is removed in pieces FROM THE MIDDLE so as not to lift the edges of the patch.


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## Arjimlad (1 Jul 2012)

Thanks Brommyboy - very helpful. So the orange side adheres to the glue. Good point about lifting from the middle. 

I also have some self-adhesive patches but keep those for on the road repairs.


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## TonyEnjoyD (1 Jul 2012)

smokeysmoo said:


> Solve the problem with THESE


+1 as well as Scabs


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## defy-one (2 Jul 2012)

Scabs make life easy


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## Alun (2 Jul 2012)

smokeysmoo said:


> Solve the problem with THESE


 I've had a couple of park tools glueless patches peel off after time, quick get you home fix though!


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## DougieAB (3 Jul 2012)

Tried some of the glueless patches before and they were hopeless. Might give the park tool ones a go.


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## ianrauk (3 Jul 2012)

DougieAB said:


> Tried some of the glueless patches before and they were hopeless. Might give the park tool ones a go.


 

The park tools ones work very well. As good as normal patches and glue.
Have done 1000's of miles with Park Tools patched tubes.
Good tips for a good fix are: Make sure the tube is dry. Sand a little to get a rough surface for the patch to grip. When you apply the patch keep the pressure on the patch/tube for a good minute or so.


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## Jdratcliffe (4 Jul 2012)

DougieAB said:


> Tried some of the glueless patches before and they were hopeless. Might give the park tool ones a go.


swear by the park tool ones carry a couple as well as two tubes on the commute plus have loads at home to fix up the tubes on the weekends.


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## DiddlyDodds (4 Jul 2012)

Best place for them is in the shed where they will never be seen, i must be mega rich as i just throw the tube away and put a new one in.
Based on a cpl of quid a tube , if i have five punctures a year is still costs less then one trip to the cinema so i cant see the point in the messing about fixing one.


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## Brommyboy (5 Jul 2012)

DiddlyDodds said


> so i cant see the point in the messing about fixing one.


Just wait 'til you get more punctures than tubes with you!!!!


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## hoopdriver (6 Jul 2012)

Rema Tip Top repair kit for me, every time. 

That said, I carry a spare tube and just change it in the road, do the repair at home.


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## JtB (7 Jul 2012)

I like the thicker patches from Halfords that don't contain the annoying paper I can never remove.


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## hoopdriver (7 Jul 2012)

I don't like much of anything from Halfords


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## ianrauk (7 Jul 2012)

hoopdriver said:


> I don't like much of anything from Halfords


 

Don't see why not.
Cheap stuff like inner tubes, lube, oils and repair kits all work fine. And if they are cheaper then other places then they get my money.


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## hoopdriver (7 Jul 2012)

I don't rate their patch kits at all, certainly not comared with Rema - the glue is far better on Rema, and so are the patches. Use them and the repair is generally stronger than the tube as a whole.

I'm all for saving money, but I like value as well


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## guitarpete247 (7 Jul 2012)

I have some Slime Skabs ans some EBC glueless patches. Luckily not had to use either yet.



Brommyboy said:


> The solution goes on to the tube, after being roughened with sandpaper so it will key in. When tacky, the patch is put on to the glue, foil side down (foil removed first, of course!). The patch is pressured on with the fingers and finally stretch out so as to split the paper, which is removed in pieces FROM THE MIDDLE so as not to lift the edges of the patch.


 
After peeling off the paper don't forget to dust with powder. Either a sprinkling of talc or grated from the block of stuff that comes in most kits. It stops the tube sticking to the inside of the tyre.


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## PoweredByVeg (9 Jul 2012)

Wish I'd read this before replacing a tube 3 times on a 200k Sunday Made the schoolboy error of gluing the patch wrong side down, then wondering why it was completely flat again 100 metres up the road! That was after the replacement tube also punctured!

And another thing while I'm moaning, patches don't work too well when the hole is right by the seam on the tube, which I also found out by biter experience


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## MrJamie (9 Jul 2012)

The worst thing is when it happens in winter when its freezing and your fingers are getting colder and colder and then you find out the glue stuff barely works when its cold and takes an age to stick if it works at all.

I really struggled to peel the patches off the backing paper without completely buggering them up too, never tried the way Brommyboy suggests though.


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## TheDoctor (9 Jul 2012)

Is there a reason not to leave the backing film on there?


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## albion (10 Jul 2012)

I have just repaired half a dozen tubes. They are currently Michelin Man size whilst I confirm they are 100% 'like new'.

Has anyone else noticed that they all blow up to different sizes with some, even Michelin ones, being of varying thickness?


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## threefingerjoe (10 Jul 2012)

"I've had a couple of park tools glueless patches peel off after time, quick get you home fix though!"

I've had this same experience, sometimes after thousands of miles. I still carry them, though, along with a spare tube. Spare tube is for the first puncture. If I have another, it will get a Park's glueless. If I repair at home in the garage, I'll use the old-fashioned glue type.


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## al-fresco (10 Jul 2012)

I find that Scabs work fine on big fat MTB tubes but are, at best, a 'get you home' job with smaller road tubes. I always seem to end up with a flat tyre the following morning and end up binning the tube. On the other hand Topeak patches really work great on small, high pressure tubes.


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## tyred (11 Jul 2012)

PoweredByVeg said:


> !
> 
> And another thing while I'm moaning, patches don't work too well when the hole is right by the seam on the tube, which I also found out by biter experience


 
That should be fine but you need to remove the ridge on the seam first. I use sandpaper but Jobst Brand recommends a Bic disposable razor.


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## PoweredByVeg (12 Jul 2012)

Good advice there Tyred


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## Spiky Simon (12 Jul 2012)

TheDoctor said:


> Is there a reason not to leave the backing film on there?


 
this is what I do, too -- getting the backing off is just too fiddly.


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## Jdratcliffe (12 Jul 2012)

Spiky Simon said:


> this is what I do, too -- getting the backing off is just too fiddly.


i let the glue set and then soak the back off with water


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## Brommyboy (28 Jul 2012)

Looking back at this thread: the paper covering can ball up if left on, and this will eventually chafe into another hole! The worst condition to patch is when it's raining. One temporary way to repair the tube is to wrap insulation tape right around the tube, so that it sticks to itself. It will stretch with the tube when inflating within the tyre.


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