# Is my bike worth fixing? Will it be easy?



## jon the student (13 Dec 2008)

*Is my bike worth fixing? Will it be easy? NOW WITH PICS*

Hello everyone,

Firstly may I apologise to John the Monkey and others for awful student cycling nationwide! (I used the search).

Ok, now that's done, my name's jon and i'm a student. I've just started cycling this term (see sig) as money is tight because of the other item in my sig(!). I also wanted to take up cycling because I used to swim a lot but after a shoulder injury and subsequent lack of any time (Engineering degree) I no longer have a vice with which to keep fit. So I've got the bike out and started using it.

Unfortunately, it is quite old. Probably 15 years I'd guess. It's my older bro's hand me down, and has had a long and full life. To show its age, it has Shimano Altus C10 gears (trigger change ones) and they're pretty worn now.

Basically, I had some issues with the freewheel I think ( to be honest, if it doesn't have an engine, I'm not very good) because the crank would free-pedal backwards which is normal, but also forwards about a quarter turn. Also, the chain would jump massively if I ever tried to properly get some speed on - I've spoken to some people and they think the chain is stretched/loose and is jumping off some teeth when pedalling hard. Because of the chain issue, I've resigned to using the top 7 gears which aren't actually that bad, bit slow from start but fine after that. Also my derailleurs are all over the shop. The rear one works fine, but the front rubs on the chain when in use (has been realigned with new cable recently) and sometimes pushes the chain allll the way down to the bottom 7, leaving me pedalling away and not going very far. Oh, and if I just stand the bike up and backpedal it quickly by hand, the chain gets stuck after a few seconds as if it's stuck between gears?

Overall, I think the crankset is worn causing the chain to jump, the freewheel (same thing as the cassette?) is dying as it doesn't take up forward slack well, the derailleurs are past their best and one of the seat springs squeaks. Is this ticking all the right boxes on the New Bike Justification List?

I'm happy to do the work myself, strip it to a frame and rebuild it all up but realistically is it going to be more economic to just buy a new bike?

Thanks for reading this far, it's a bit of an essay.

Jon :-)


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## jon the student (13 Dec 2008)

p.s. sorry for not reading Andyfromotley's "Advice to newbies" before posting this.


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## Young Un (13 Dec 2008)

Bit off topic - but how do you find the motorsport engineering - you are doing the same course that I want to do and at the same uni. (mainly want to do it because of our mk1 escort mexico- which is what got me into cars in the first place)

Steve


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## jon the student (13 Dec 2008)

Hi Steve, I go OT all the time, so no probs!

Yeah, the course is really good. There is a massive leap between first and second year though. I did foundation year too (been out of college for 6 years) but I breezed that easily. First year was pretty much the same, a lot of basic AS-Level concepts retackled. 2nd year (which I've just started) hit me like a train though, tons and tons of coursework from the off, sometimes two from each module(!) and you're just expected to know absolutely everything off by heart from Year 1, so not a great deal is explained. Quite a lot of the notes are in summary form, so you may need to do some reading up on things you're not completely familiar with.

On the plus side, the new motorsport complex at Wheatley campus is awesome, just don't take accommodation there cos you're miles away from town (unless you don't mind that). There are tons of practical workshops and playing with stuff. Last year, we got to dis and reassemble a Volvo 5cyl engine, rebuild a Clio gearbox, cornerweight a Formula 3000 car, the list goes on. Just a few weeks ago I had a composites lab in which we were making up simple objects in carbon fibre which was pretty cool.

If you search UCAS, there's only 10-15 places nationwide which do the course, and I think OB is one of the best, if not THE best one. I've applied to ProDrive for my placement next year, and am waiting to hear back to see if i've been shortlisted, but there's tons of companies like that around Oxfordshire as you probably know.


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## fossyant (13 Dec 2008)

New freewheel and chain is cheap. Leave the chain wheels for now - just clean the lot up. 

Probably worth spending on - you don't want anything too flash if you don't have secure parking, and even with an old bike, get good locks or you'll be walking home.....


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## jon the student (13 Dec 2008)

cool, thanks fossyant. What are the chain wheels, just all the cogs?

I haven't had the bike apart yet, but am I right in thinking the freewheel goes through middle of the rear wheel, behind the gears? And I need some cone spanners to change it with I think...


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## fossyant (13 Dec 2008)

Chain wheels - the front ones.... you'll get away with them for ages......

Depending upon the bike - it will either have a cassette and freehub, or a freewheel. If it's a 'cheap' bike then there is a good chance it will be freewheel.....you generally replace the lot - about £10-£15.

If it's a cassette type, then it's about £15 for the cogs/sprockets....then comes the fun - finding the correct freehub (the clicky bit in the middle) - depends upon age !

Can you take the wheel off and take a pic of the rear gears showing the axel and sprockets (cogs) - we'll be able to tell - helps if you can ensure the last smallest sprocket is clean and the axel.....


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## jon the student (13 Dec 2008)

ah right. yeah i'm hoping the chain wheels are ok, I don't fancy doing the crank bearing much.

I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow if I can. I'll get some degreasant on them and clean it up.

cheers for the help.


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## cadseen (13 Dec 2008)

Cant you get someone locally who can see the bike to advise ?


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## mickle (13 Dec 2008)

Corrado Eh? Do you fancy restoring mine? I'll fix your bike for you!


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## peanut (13 Dec 2008)

can you tell us what the frame make is ? are there any stickers on the frame? and how many sprockets do you have at the back ?


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

No disrespect, but you're an engineer. You don't need a book or lessons to bloody fix it.


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## peanut (14 Dec 2008)

Dave5N said:


> No disrespect, but you're an engineer. You don't need a book or lessons to bloody fix it.


He's an academic Dave probably never got anything nasty under his fingernails yet.
Give the guy a break .

Welcome to the forum Jon... we are not all grumpy ol gits like Dave lol


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## Andy in Sig (14 Dec 2008)

A bloke called Rob van den Plas has written some excellent general bicycle repair books. Get hold of one and a lot will become very clear.


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## Randochap (14 Dec 2008)

What was the question again?


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

peanut said:


> He's an academic Dave probably never got anything nasty under his fingernails yet.
> Give the guy a break .
> 
> Welcome to the forum Jon... *we are not all grumpy ol gits like Dave* lol



Most of us are though!


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## peanut (14 Dec 2008)

Dave5N said:


> Most of us are though!






Randochap said:


> What was the question again?



dunno losin the will to live here


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

What question?

There was a question?


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

cadseen said:


> Cant you get someone locally who can see the bike to advise ?



Sorry, forgot to mention I took it to OCW (Oxford Cycle Workshop) after a friend recommended them. They took a look at it, put two new derailleur cables in (which really sharpened up the triggers and made them feel a lot tighter), realigned the front V block brakes as one was catching, and also cleaned and greased the freewheel.

I did ask them to replace it, but they said it was just gritty. I attacked the gears outside the shop, but the crank wouldn't slip so I paid up and took it home. But it's started slipping again now (think perhaps it's the chain jumping?)

Thanks,

Jon.


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Mickle you have PM.

Thanks Peanut, but I reckon Dave has got a fair point. I have a 60-page build thread on the Corrado Forum for my car, so I really should know my bike inside out! I think because it's my "daily driver" so to speak, I can't be bothered with pulling it apart but then again i've just finished for christmas so maybe I will get the spanners out.

End of the day, I'm 6ft2, about 12stone and just don't have much confidence in the bike now. If I decide to push down hard I don't want something mechanical failing on me. I mean, what's the fun in cycling slow (I guess I'm an A to B man) plus I use it as a workout so getting my heart rate up is the aim of the game.

Wth regards to the frame, as far as I know it's a Raleigh Avenger Tioca( says on the handlebars?) it'll be early to mid 90s spec, costing around £500 back then if that helps any. It has a 'crossfire' sticker on the back fork (model name?) ad is kinda purple and black...Probs easiest if I just get some pics up tomorrow (yeah, today's pics didn't happen).

Thanks for the warm welcome, I think perhaps I am the grumpy old man on the corrado forum! ha ha.

Jon.


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Andy in Sig said:


> A bloke called Rob van den Plas has written some excellent general bicycle repair books. Get hold of one and a lot will become very clear.



Thanks for the advice, I'll keep an eye out for it


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

peanut said:


> can you tell us what the frame make is ? are there any stickers on the frame? and how many sprockets do you have at the back ?



if sprockets are cogs then I have 7, it's a 21-speed. but the crank slip / chain bounce happens a lot on the bottom and middle 7 (i.e. small and medium chain wheels) so I leave it in the top 7. This kinda proved my theory that the chain is stretched as the top 7 gears is obviously largest chainwheel so it takes up more of the chain slack if that makes sense.


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

Jon, measure the chain with an ordinary decent steel rule.

Bike chains are half inch pitch so over 12 inches you will have 24 links exactly. Measure rivet to rivet. If the last rivet is more than a sixteenth past the 12 inch mark, you need a new chain.

Hope this helps.

Sorry for my grumpiness earlier and welcome!


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Grumpiness was justified, so it's ok!  Thanks again for the welcome.

I will get steel rule out and go have a look now.


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

I'm thinking that this chain has stretched more than 1/16". Opinions?


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

Yep. Time for a new one.

TBH I'd get a new cassette for the back at the same time.


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Ok cool, thanks for the confirmation. Do you know whether, for example, I would have to buy like for like (Altus C10) gear parts should I want to replace the derailleurs or is there a compatibility chart somewhere? No doubt gear mechs have come on leaps and bounds in the last 20 odd years.


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## longers (14 Dec 2008)

Dave5N said:


> TBH I'd get a new cassette for the back at the same time.



And replace the chain before it gets too worn next time and you shouldn't need to change the cassette next time. Cheaper


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

longers said:


> And replace the chain before it gets too worn next time and you shouldn't need to change the cassette next time. Cheaper



Good thinking batman  yeah I really haven't maintained this bike very well


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

Probably won't need a new mech


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## peanut (14 Dec 2008)

jon the student said:


> Mickle you have PM.
> 
> Thanks Peanut, but I reckon Dave has got a fair point.
> 
> Jon.


blimey I stick up for ya and you kick me in the teeth for it 

If you are one of life's 'real engineers' you'll learn as you go and you'll want to take everything to bits to see how it works, how its failed and if the original design can be improved upon when you rebuild it .
I've not found anything yet that I haven't been able to fix


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Ha ha, sorry peanut!  I should probably stop being lazy then and get on with it. Cars seem like big lego kits to me, so I don't see why bikes should be any different - maybe i just need to learn the particulars.

I'll get some proper pics of the beast up tomorrow.


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

peanut said:


> blimey I stick up for ya and you kick me in the teeth for it
> 
> If you are one of life's 'real engineers' you'll learn as you go and you'll want to take everything to bits to see how it works, how its failed and if the original design can be improved upon when you rebuild it .
> I've not found anything yet that I haven't been able to fix



Who's being grumpy now? And wasn't that my point yesterday anyway?


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

ooooh, fight.... meaaoouwww...


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

No. Just me taking the pish...


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

ha ha fair enough.

I was also wondering if there is somewhere I can check what height the bars and seat should be for me? I'm under the assumption that the seat should be adjusted so that my leg is fully straight and foot flat on the pedal in the lowest crank position (i'm on tip toes when I put my foot on the road when stopped), but I haven't been able to move my bars cos I think you need spacers to raise the bar up a bit.


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## peanut (14 Dec 2008)

jon the student said:


> if sprockets are cogs then I have 7, it's a 21-speed. but the crank slip / chain bounce happens a lot on the bottom and middle 7 (i.e. small and medium chain wheels) so I leave it in the top 7. This kinda proved my theory that the chain is stretched as the top 7 gears is obviously largest chainwheel so it takes up more of the chain slack if that makes sense.




no it probably means your either a chain link is tight or the rear mech tension spring which keeps the chain tight is weak and worn out as I said in an earlier post.If your transmission is as old as you say it is probably best to replace it and don't waste any more time on it.
The spring in the rear mech maintains chain tension throughout the range of gears ie from big chain ring and biggest sprocket to small chainring and smallest sprocket combinations. It has a lot of work to do when on the small/small combo


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

So the sprockets are the smaller cogs on the gear mech? there are 2 in that case, and they tend to jam if i pack pedal the bike when stationary (i.e. chain kinda tries to pinch itself together in the middle if that makes sense and eventually jumps across the cassette at the back). That's also happened once at speed, but i just pulled over and treated it as if my chain had come off.


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## oxbob (14 Dec 2008)

this might help?


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

thanks oxbob, I was thinking about the jockey wheels. 

Wow: cassettes, jockeys, chainwheels, sprockets. I have learned a lot today.


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## peanut (14 Dec 2008)

engineer ? engineer my ass ! you can't even use the google search facility look for sprocket and to find a detailed picture of bicycle bits ? come on give me a break


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## Dave5N (14 Dec 2008)

Calm down, man.

JTS - your symptoms are common to worn chains and cassettes.

Get new ones. Fit them. If you still have problems, ask again.


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Ace, thanks for the continued help.

Peanut, sorry for the emotional turmoil. Will a twix cheer you up?


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## swee'pea99 (14 Dec 2008)

Two sites definitely worth checking out if you're contemplating diy:

http://bicycletutor.com/

and

http://www.parktool.com/


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## jon the student (14 Dec 2008)

Thanks swee'pea, I'll definitely check those out.

Better get to bed as I've got an electronics (witchcraft) exam tomorrow.


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## jon the student (15 Dec 2008)

Chain slipped on me in the top 7 today  so I'll be dismantling it tomorrow, giving it a good degrease and then seeing what's what.

Stay tuned (if you have the patience...)


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## swee'pea99 (15 Dec 2008)

Before you do that, get hold of a 12" steel rule and watch this...


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## Dave5N (15 Dec 2008)

[quote name='swee'pea99']Before you do that, get hold of a 12" steel rule and watch this...[/quote]


Pay attention. We've already been there.


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## jon the student (15 Dec 2008)

Ahh, it's all fun and games isn't it! Dave has indeed talked me through the bike chain wear indicator. Are old chains made of steel? Must be a lot of force on it to make it extend by 3mm. I guess just fatigue and 'creep' could make it extend 3mm as it's probably, what, 80cm-1m long perhaps? Just off the top of my head.

I was wondering about getting a lighter framed bike, but then that would take the 'work' (literally) out of riding it. Yeah, my bike is old and heavy. Maybe 15-20kg, but I can lift it clean over my head when needed and obviously a higher mass will equate to a larger force needed (energy used) to make it go faster. So it's making ME work harder. Which is a good thing. Plus the car needs a lot doing to it.


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## Dave5N (15 Dec 2008)

JOn.

They don't stretch really, they wear. SPecifically the bushings and rivets, or for more modern ones without bushings, the rollers.

Essentially, (I'm not an engineer) the chain gets longer because as it wears it gets looser at each link.


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## John the Monkey (16 Dec 2008)

Jon, you'll find that bikes are mechanically pretty simple for the most part.

That bike tutor site posted earlier has some good video tutorials, with clear written instructions (that you can print out and take to the garage  ). For sorting your gears out, I've yet to find a better resource for shimano stuff than their own site (follow the links to the support, technical docs section, and look for the SI- (service instruction) pdfs). For anything you don't fancy doing yourself, a good local bike shop is indispensable. I don't know Oxford, but searching the "LBS Recommendations" Thread might help.

Oh, and if you've got (and use) lights, and don't put yourself or other people in danger through inattention or thoughtlessness, you've no need to apologise to me


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## jon the student (16 Dec 2008)

Cheers for the help JTM.

And yeah, I use lights, helmet, big flourescent jacket even in the day (good extra layer!), look over my shoulder before manouvring, wave to people who move over to let me pass :-) it's all about courtesy isn't it really. I'd move over for a bike if I was in my car, so...

I will deffo look at Shimano's website. Thanks again.


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## jimboalee (16 Dec 2008)

Hi Jon the Student.

When you graduate, write to a company called Zytek in Derby.

They are a bunch of bods who were Lucas Racing in the eighties.
There are a lot of my old pals from Lucas and SAGEM working their, so mention you are on a cycling chatboard with the guy who ran the Engine test facility for SAGEM when they were at MIRA.

You could try Cosworth Racing, CP Engineering, or even John Sleath ( if you like Drag Racing ).

You will probably be aware that Honda have pulled out. This is the start of the slippery slope. Be not dismayed, there are plenty of lesser known engine tuners and chassis builders up north that are looking for good men.

One thing is for sure though, you will NOT get into Morgan. I couldn't so went to Jaguar as a vehicle tester.
Times are hard for all of the motor industry ( except Morgan ) lately.

Motor racing is a very extreme trade. You have to be ULTRA clever ( PhD ) or know someone in power.

I knew someone.


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## John the Monkey (16 Dec 2008)

Jon, one other thought - does your Uni have a bike user group (BUG)?

We have one at Manchester, and we occasionally do "Dr. Bike" days, where BUG members and the mechanics from one of the local shops look over people's bikes - we fix the small stuff, and suggest where/how the big stuff might be sorted out. Could be worth asking at Brookes whether anything similar is going on.


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## jon the student (17 Dec 2008)

As it's a nice day, I decided to get some shots of my bike to put up here. I did get a little sidetracked with turning this pile:







into these:






but then I got the bike out.






Sorry about the shadow.







Trigger gears







Brakes and gears







Bit of frame info and front derailleur







Rear derailleur







Cassette(?)












Worn chainwheel teeth


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## jon the student (17 Dec 2008)

JTM, I think my uni does have a BUG, or at least they have companies who come up to campus in freshers week during sept/oct to help people with bike advice and sort their current bikes out. I'll ask at the union whether there's a society or some such.


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## mickle (17 Dec 2008)

Jon, the chainring teeth may be worn but what you are looking at there are manufactured ramps and cut-outs which enable easy shifting between rings.


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## Paulus (17 Dec 2008)

Most of those teeth on the cassette look a bit like sharks dorsel fins, probably time for a new cassette and chain.


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## jon the student (17 Dec 2008)

jimboalee said:


> Hi Jon the Student.
> 
> When you graduate, write to a company called Zytek in Derby.
> 
> ...



Hi Jimbo, sorry for missing your post first time round!  I have in fact applied to Zytek Engineering (CAD Design and R&D office in Banbury) for my placement next year, as yet there's been no news. Might try to get a direct phoneline for someone there. I don't really have a design portfolio yet, but will have by the summer as I have a big CAD project starting in Feb.

I know people in BTCC and GT3 (worked on a Lamborghini team for a bit) but I really like Rally. Bit to be honest, I'm more inclined to be a designer than a race engineer. Thanks for all the companies and the advice though, definitely appreciated! Geoff Goddard of Cosworth fame is one of my lecturers now, he's pretty cool albeit a little eccentric!

Thanks again,

Jon.


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## jon the student (17 Dec 2008)

Thanks Paulus and Mickle for the confirmations! I'll actually get it apart tomorrow all being well.


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## Young Un (17 Dec 2008)

The more and more you post about OB and your course the more and more jeleous of you I am getting, I wish I could skip gcse's and A-levels and go straight to uni.

Steve


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## jon the student (18 Dec 2008)

Ha ha thanks mate! It's not a brilliant time to be involved in motorsport really, it's seen as a bit of a luxury to some and as such there is less work etc when the economy has gone a little funny :/

Stay in school though  it may seem boring now but you'll end up in a cool job someday.


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## jon the student (19 Dec 2008)

I did 12 miles today, 6 return to Wheatley Campus and back. Loaded up with 8 textbooks (3 dynamics, 5 design) and came home. Got a killer migraine when riding, so went for a sleep this avo when I was back. Really hoping to get the bike apart, and debating doing it this evening in the garage as it has flourescent lighting.


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## jon the student (27 Jan 2009)

At the risk of being flamed into ashes, I think I'm going to buy a new bike.

Here are the reasons:

I need a new chainset - £20
I would like a new crankset - £30ish? (I just don't feel confident in the current ones)
I want to get some city/urban tyres - £30 a pair (current ones are offroad and knobbly!)

So that's £80 on an old bike, which seems a lot to me, but then I'm ploughing hundreds into an old VW so maybe I'm a slight hypocrite(!)

Any opinions welcome, I have already read back over previous posts and come to this conclusion.

Dave5N, John the Monkey and Peanut amongst others have me almost convinced that I just need a chainset but I'm just a bit unsure about the gears too esp. as they've got new cables on and are still playing up a bit (even though the shop did the cables). I get my largest loans over the next couple of months so this is definitely the best time of year for a largeish spend on a bike for me.

Cheers for the ongoing help as always,

Jon.

p.s feel free to abuse / virtually slap some sense into me! ha ha.


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## johnnyh (27 Jan 2009)

hehehe sounds like someone has decided to buy a new bike and is looking for the mental green light 

Cognitive dissonance, you got to love it


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## John the Monkey (27 Jan 2009)

A decent road going hybrid (assuming you want a flat bar commuter) is going to run you something like £200-£300 (Carerra Subway, EBC Courier etc). Much less is going to get you a bike that will be as much of a maintenance headache as your current one (imo - wheels that don't stay true, brakes and gears that are forever creeping out of proper adjustment).

If you like the frame &tc of your current bike, it might be worth spending the money on it, given that you could be spending twice that on a new 'un, but ultimately that's your choice.


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## jon the student (27 Jan 2009)

Thanks guys (johnny you're far too insightful!)

JTM, My brother has a Carrera Subway. It has hub gears (can change them on the spot!) and hub/disc brakes I think, does look like quite a good bike. I'll have a go on it sometime and see what I think.

You're right with my current bike. It's not past it, I just need to decide what I want from a bike and whether my 15y/o can deliver it. I think a handful of new parts may reignite my confidence in it.


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## John the Monkey (27 Jan 2009)

jon the student said:


> JTM, My brother has a Carrera Subway. It has hub gears (can change them on the spot!) and hub/disc brakes I think, does look like quite a good bike. I'll have a go on it sometime and see what I think.


They're always well reviewed - the variable is the setup Halfords do on it (varies from store to store, and it may be worth getting someone to check it over for you unless you've confidence in your local store). Your brother's bike sounds like the Subway 8 (has an internal hub gear rather than derailleurs).


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## johnnyh (27 Jan 2009)

jon ts, I have to say I was in much the same situation with my old Raleigh hard tail.

I went through the same thing as you and then went and bought a Giant Boulder, and fitted a rack/slick tyres. It has to be said it got me out on the bike straight away and it hasnt let me down - neither am I fearful it might.

I still have the Raleigh, and when I have a few hours on a nice summers day, who knows, I might fix it up.

Go for it and enjoy riding


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## jon the student (27 Jan 2009)

Yeah, I think it is a Subway 8, that's definitely ringing bells.

johnny I would like to fix the bike now, but i'm pushing two simultaneous killer deadlines for my engineering course (ever since October!) and I just can't find the time to get the spanners out. Perhaps I will do as you did, find something else for now and keep the old for a sunny day tinkering!


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## swee'pea99 (27 Jan 2009)

My two bobs worth...ebay...with care...and patience. And a few emails to gauge your potential seller (having of course checked out his/her feedback). Choose carefully, off an old feller who's taken pride in it and cherished it for 20 years, and you could get a way better bike for the money.

But as others have said, the Carrera seems to get a consistent thumbs up, so I'm sure it wouldn't be a bust. It's just...you get so much better second hand, so long as you do it carefully.


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## jon the student (29 Jan 2009)

Thanks sweetpea, much appreciated. My bro is not using his Subway 8 at the mo, so I maybe be able to use it for a few weeks before I decide which bike I get. Being a student, I am keeping an eye on ebay too!

I'm going to measure my current bike frame to see if it's actually the right size for me, I think that would be a good start to see if it's worth me keeping it. I wear size 34 leg jeans, so I'm guessing my inside leg will be around 32", which means I should be on a 21/22" frame roughly?

Many thanks for the help.


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## jon the student (31 Jan 2009)

Ok, so after having a good look around at bikes the last few days, I have found a Carrera Vulcan (07 Spec), like this one (22" frame):

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/vulcan-07-27707

I did go to my local halfords and looked at the subway range, but the Subway 1 (£185 currently) seemed very cheapy (crankset looked like it was pressed from tin cans), it had twisty gears and even though Bike Radar gave it 4/5 stars I came away feeling a little confused that it was actually the same bike. Not having a frame size which fit me in stock didn't help much as I couldn't try the bike out.

The Vulcan I found has only been ridden a few times (so obviously 2nd hand), it has trigger gears which I find a lot easier to use than twistshift ones, it does have adjustable front fork but I don't think I will be using this at all, not on the road anyways. I didn't see any Vulcans in H when I went to have a look, perhaps Oxford branch doesn't carry them in stock or something.


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## jon the student (1 Feb 2009)

I managed to haggle the previous owner of the Vulcan down to £200, which included lights, tools, pump, lock, water bottle and holder, so I think I did ok.

I told him I'd be round to collect it within the week sometime (didn't have my bike stuff on me)

So, I'm looking forward to trying it out! Yeah it's a bit over-specced for a commuter, the shock/offroad innovas won't help on the road but it means I can take the alternate hilly route to uni which could be good fun!

:-)


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## jon the student (2 Feb 2009)

I didn't try the new bike out this morning. The -7 degrees didn't bother me massively, but the icy roads and slighty dodgy conditions did. I'll hopefully be able to try it out later this week should all be well.

Oh, and get some pics up too.


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## jon the student (9 Feb 2009)

Treid the new bike out last week, it's really hard going with those fat MTB tires! Luckily my Kenda Kommuters turned up today, so I'm going to put those on this evening with a view to riding in the morning - oxford seems to be defrosting slowly!

Will get pics up asap.


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## jon the student (19 Feb 2009)

*wooooo*

bike is awesome. tyres are awesome. can't find time to stop and take pictures, sorry!


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## Mortiroloboy (20 Feb 2009)

jon the student said:


> I'm thinking that this chain has stretched more than 1/16". Opinions?




Waaaaaaaaaaaaay tooooooo much oil


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