# Wish me luck...



## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

I've removed the rear wheel from the Touche to adorn it with some rather fetching new blue tyres. Being utterly mechanically inept, there may well be much cursing from my residence while I a) change the tyres and b) try to get the rear wheel and chain back on. I am however feeling very chuffed with myself having managed earlier to get the chain back on after it came off...by the roadside no less! 

This was after I asked Pearsons to loosen the rear bolts for feeble me so I could attempt this feat of technical hoopla later!  (I am not sure if this caused the chain to come off, the bolts weren't finger loose)

BTW can anyone recommend a better portable 15mm spanner - I will undoubtedly fail later with the £2 dumbell job I got from Wilkos (I may have more success tightening the bolts with the piece of Leerdammer in my fridge)


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## User269 (7 Apr 2015)

What are these 'rear bolts' of which you speak?


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## RedRider (7 Apr 2015)

This surly one gets good reviews but I make do with this from Halfords which is slightly too big really :






( yes, I am just enjoying an after work Duvel but it does help with the spanner work too)


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

User269 said:


> What are these 'rear bolts' of which you speak?


They hold the rear wheel on! No QR


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## KneesUp (7 Apr 2015)

How are you getting on? 

I have a socket set (because I used to own an Italian car) and a set of spanners I got from Aldi - they go from 'smaller than you'll need' to 'larger than you will need' - they are a ring spanner at one end and a c spanner at the other. I just carry the ones I need - they don't weigh much. I think it as £15 for the set - well worth it to add to the toolkit. Or I suppose if it's just for bikes you could get 8mm, 10mm, 13mm and 15mm (the only ones I seem to use - wheels on my daughter's little bike had 13mm nuts) from a hardware shop. The big spanner wedged in an used as a massive screwdriver is the only way to get the spare wheel carrier off my car, so personally it is good to have them all, but if you don't have the delight of knackered old cars you shouldn't need them all


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## Cuchilo (7 Apr 2015)

Just take it back to the shop and tell them they can tighten them up again now


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

I've managed to do that now. However, my neighbour helped me with tyre having heard me cursing. I am now looking at the front one with trepidation! Not easy with a bad right shoulder and a dodgy left hand!
The chain does look a bit slack while the bike is upside down!


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## User269 (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> They hold the rear wheel on! No QR


You mean..............there's such a thing as no QR??...............but, but, ........................surely that was all back in my grandad's day??


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

User269 said:


> You mean..............there's such a thing as no QR??...............but, but, ........................surely that was all back in my grandad's day??


Can't use a QR with horizontal drop outs (I think they are called) on a SS

Does your bike have one of those funny dérailleur thingummy whatsits? Get back in the main forum, this is the fixed and single speed special area


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> Can't use a QR with horizontal drop outs (I think they are called) on a SS
> 
> Does your bike have one of those funny dérailleur thingummy whatsits? Get back in the main forum, this is the fixed and single speed special area


Yes you can !!!!!!

A qr is not recc for fixed wheel though


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

Go girl!
You can do it @vickster


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

jim55 said:


> Yes you can !!!!!!
> 
> A qr is not recc for fixed wheel though


That's not what pearsons told me when I asked?


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

Rubbish ,,, there's loadsa guys running ss and qr , but with fixed u need a good tight chain and a really solid rear wheel ( jutted cos a qr doesn't gen grip tight enough )
The torque when slowing down ( through back peddling ) is a lot of force and if the axle moves. A wee bit it'll loosen chain and prob b a potential disaster, not so critical for ss so if fixed go netted axle , but yeah qr is fine on ss(as long as it's mega tight )


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## Cuchilo (7 Apr 2015)

I was told I couldn't make a fixed out of a bike with horizontal drop outs .


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

jim55 said:


> Rubbish ,,, there's loadsa guys running ss and qr , but with fixed u need a good tight chain and a really solid rear wheel ( jutted cos a qr doesn't gen grip tight enough )
> The torque when slowing down ( through back peddling ) is a lot of force and if the axle moves. A wee bit it'll loosen chain and prob b a potential disaster, not so critical for ss so if fixed go netted axle , but yeah qr is fine on ss(as long as it's mega tight )


That means absolutely nothing to me!


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

Think about it , why is load on qr any diff on a single speed freewheel as opposed to a 10 ( or whatever ) spd cassette ( which is just a freewheel with more than one sprocket ?

It's fixed that changes it


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## goody (7 Apr 2015)

I used a QR when I rode fixed it was fine as long as was done up tight (shimano type) I would have thought you'd generate a lot more 'torque' when pedalling forwards from standstill than resisting.


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

Cuchilo said:


> I was told I couldn't make a fixed out of a bike with horizontal drop outs .


 Lol , it's not ideal but it's done by loads


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Erm...did you read my first post...you might as well be talking Arabic!!


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## goody (7 Apr 2015)

Cuchilo said:


> I was told I couldn't make a fixed out of a bike with horizontal drop outs .


Mine was.


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

goody said:


> I used a QR when I rode fixed it was fine as long as was done up tight (shimano type) I would have thought you'd generate a lot more 'torque' when pedalling forwards from standstill than resisting.


Well it's a combo of both forwards and back but obv you don't pedal back on freewheel ( well maybe you do but there's no force in it


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> Erm...did you read my first post...you might as well be talking Arabic!!


Well, did you manage?
Show us a picture of the newly dressed bike!


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

I've only done one (well the neighbour did). I'm procrastinating, been to tesco, making dinner..,


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

Read this vikster

taken from MTBR.com

Quick-release skewers can be used on frames with track fork ends or horizontal dropouts, but care should be taken in selecting what type of skewer to use. Modern alloy skewers usually cannot be clamped down tightly enough to hold the rear wheel in place. This may lead to the wheel slipping under load. Older, heavy-duty steel skewers like early Shimano XTs seem to work the best for people choosing to use a quick-release on the rear. Adding chaintugs would also reduce the likelihood of slippage.

and sheldon - 

Conventional wisdom is that you need a solid (nutted or "bolt-on") axle hub for fixed-gear or singlespeed use, and that a quick-release will not hold the wheel solidly enough in a horizontal fork end. This is not true, however.

Since most newer bikes have vertical dropouts, people have gotten used to wimpy aluminum skewers, and often don't adjust them as tightly as they might.

If you use a good quality (Shimano is the best) skewer , tightened securely, it will hold just fine in any type of dropout or fork end .


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

I have very weak hands, a tight QR skewer can be nigh on Impossible for me to undo. I'll stick with the bolts


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

I prefer bolts too.
Anyway, you got bolts now, no use discussing quick release when you haven't got one ... men! 
Give it another bash after dinner, it will be lovely for you to admire successful a first time fettle.


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## potsy (7 Apr 2015)

My money's on her not doing it


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

potsy said:


> My money's on her not doing it


Shush pessimistic cat!
@vickster will do it!


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

The air is out of the tyre...


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

And the crap old one is off the rim...shoulder hurts...


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Ahhhh you fecker, the first side is on the rim...


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

Push, pull, pull, push


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## Cuchilo (7 Apr 2015)

Oh you need a girl anthem to help you do it


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## Cuchilo (7 Apr 2015)

This should help ...


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

And the bastard is on!  I am slightly concerned the tube might be twisted


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Push, pull, pull, push


My thumbs hurt


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> I am slightly concerned the tube might be twisted


Don't put the wheel on yet: inflate the tyre, give it a good push a few times to simulate kerb hopping  then wait until tomorrow. If still solid fit on bike, If deflated you got a pinch flat, try again. Second time is easier!


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## Cuchilo (7 Apr 2015)

Go round the rim pulling the tyre towards you to check the tube isn't caught ( this saves using the thumbs ) do both sides then inflate a bit so you can check again if you feel the need .


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## potsy (7 Apr 2015)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Don't put the wheel on yet: inflate the tyre, give it a good push a few times to simulate kerb hopping  then wait until tomorrow. If still solid fit on bike, If deflated you got a pinch flat, try again. Second time is easier!


Or do as Pat says, then go to bed and wait for the 'explosion' in the middle of the night


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Oh I've pumped it up to 100psi...no explosion yet. I did run round the tyre though with my trusty magnum lolly stick

Previous explosions have been quite swift to come oops

18 minutes, do I get a medal?


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## Cuchilo (7 Apr 2015)

ahhh well there you go , no need to worry .
Now I want a trusty magnum lolly stick


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Here's one for @Pat "5mph"


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Cuchilo said:


> ahhh well there you go , no need to worry .
> Now I want a trusty magnum lolly stick


Just get yourself a box of three. Keep you in sticks for a while. I recommend White choc


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> Here's one for @Pat "5mph"


Very well done!
Love the bike's colour scheme and the floor tiling is ace too!


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Topps tiles, recently done and much complimented! Thanks


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## ayceejay (7 Apr 2015)

You need one of these http://www.velosolo.co.uk/vstool.html
or one of these which may be better as it is longer therefore more leverage.





Incidentally the technique is to pull the chain tight then tighten the non drive side with the tyre touching the chain stay on that side
the chain will slacken some but when you pull the wheel straight and yighten the nut on the other side you should be good to go. 
Re tighten after a few miles.


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

I'll have to look at that as the chain looks very slack!


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## Smurfy (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> BTW can anyone recommend a better portable 15mm spanner - I will undoubtedly fail later with the £2 dumbell job I got from Wilkos (I may have more success tightening the bolts with the piece of Leerdammer in my fridge)


I just carry a regular spanner from my set of spanners. If I need it for car maintenance I just fetch it from my commuting bag. If you don't want a full set, you should be able to buy a single spanner from any decent tool shop, or failing that, Halfords. The Halfords ones are a bit expensive, but they are wonderfully polished/shiny. If you get one, always use the ring end, as it engages more faces on the nut, and is less likely to slip off.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tr...alfords-professional-combination-spanner-15mm


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## Smurfy (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> Ahhhh you fecker, the first side is on the rim...


One of these will make it very easy.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/simson-tyre-mate-prod22353/
Looks heavy, but it's not because it's glass fibre reinforced plastic.

Edit: Not made anymore. Get one of these instead.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/koolstop-koolstop-tyre-mate-prod34684/


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## Pat "5mph" (7 Apr 2015)

Any time I've used levers to fit a tyre I got pinch flats


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

I used levers to get the last bit of tyre over the rim...and to get the old tyre off


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

ayceejay said:


> You need one of these http://www.velosolo.co.uk/vstool.html
> or one of these which may be better as it is longer therefore more leverage.
> 
> 
> ...


I'm struggling here....what's the chain stay?!


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## John_S (7 Apr 2015)

Just going back to the ideas for a 15mm spanner I saw this recently however I've not tried it so can't vouch for how it compares to others or if there are better/cheaper options out there.

Portland Design Works (PDW) 3wrencho

https://www.ridepdw.com/goods/tools/3wrencho-coated

It's available in a coated and non-coated version and seemed to get decent reviews on this US website.

http://www.mec.ca/product/5023-709/portland-design-works-3-wrencho-coated-tool/

I did a quick search and it seemed to be available on a few websites such as on the link below but as I say I've not tried it and there maybe better/cheaper 15mm spanners out there that people can recommend from experience.

http://www.londonbicycleworkshop.com/2587/products/pdw-3wrencho-coated-tyre-lever.aspx

Good luck getting the chain tension sorted!


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

John_S said:


> Good luck getting the chain tension sorted!


I haven't got a clue, will need to go to pearsons tomorrow I fear! Never had this issue with a geared bike!


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## ayceejay (7 Apr 2015)

That wrench John suggests is very short ( I have one) which is why I suggested the other ones
that would be more suitable for you with limited strength.


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## andyfraser (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> I haven't got a clue, will need to go to pearsons tomorrow I fear! Never had this issue with a geared bike!


It's not that hard. It was initially confusing that the chain was tighter in some places than others. I ended up finding the tightest point and slackening off a bit. I tried the "walking" technique but ended up over tensioning the chain at the tight point.


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

It really is quite hard when you have no idea what you are doing  it seems loose all the way round. Does the bolt not have to be all the way into the drop out? That's the only way I can see the chain being more tense?! Given I have zero mechanical intuition at all!


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## jim55 (7 Apr 2015)

Is ur wheel all the way back in the dropouts vickster


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## andyfraser (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> It really is quite hard when you have no idea what you are doing  it seems loose all the way round. Does the bolt not have to be all the way into the drop out? That's the only way I can see the chain being more tense?! Given I have zero mechanical intuition at all!


No. You move the wheel back to increase chain tension or move it forward to slacken off the tension.

I'm not mechanically minded either and spent ages fiddling about until I got it right. It's one of those things I have to know in case I have to remove the wheel miles from home to fix a puncture.


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

andyfraser said:


> No. You move the wheel back to increase chain tension or move it forward to slacken off the tension.
> 
> I'm not mechanically minded either and spent ages fiddling about until I got it right. It's one of those things I have to know in case I have to remove the wheel miles from home to fix a puncture.


That's why I have ETA cover 

Yes, so you do indeed move the wheel back in the drop out...or do you mean a different wheel? What does your no refer to?!

Sleep time, I'll look at this again in the morning


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## andyfraser (7 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> That's why I have ETA cover
> 
> Yes, so you do indeed move the wheel back in the drop out...or do you mean a different wheel? What does your no refer to?!
> 
> Sleep time, I'll look at this again in the morning


Yes, you move the wheel back in the drop out. This is one of those things that's easier to demonstrate than describe.


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## vickster (7 Apr 2015)

Thanks. Previous posts didn't make that clear. I guess for most it might be immediately obvious!


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## Smurfy (8 Apr 2015)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Any time I've used levers to fit a tyre I got pinch flats


Yes, you have to be _very_ careful with normal levers not to pinch the tube, but the tyre mate is not a normal tyre lever, it has a totally different design and method of operation. I bought a tyre mate when I encountered my first tight rim-tyre combination, as I couldn't get the tyre on without a lever, and I didn't want to run the risk of pinching out on the road with a normal tyre lever.


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## Pat "5mph" (8 Apr 2015)

YellowTim said:


> Yes, you have to be _very_ careful with normal levers not to pinch the tube, but the tyre mate is not a normal tyre lever, it has a totally different design and method of operation. I bought a tyre mate when I encountered my first tight rim-tyre combination, as I couldn't get the tyre on without a lever, and I didn't want to run the risk of pinching out on the road with a normal tyre lever.


I've learn to wrestle instead 
Lucky don't have to do tyre fitting very often, as Schwalbe in a variety of permutations are my choice


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## Smurfy (8 Apr 2015)

Pat "5mph" said:


> I've learn to wrestle instead
> Lucky don't have to do tyre fitting very often, as Schwalbe in a variety of permutations are my choice


You must have strong hands!


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## Sharky (8 Apr 2015)

I carry a very small adjustable spanner for the track nuts. On my earlier bikes, the front nuts and rear nuts were different sizes and needed a 14mm and a 15mm. All the open ended spanners I seemed to find in the shops went up in 2mm jumps, so you could get a 14/16 open ended spanner. Then when on holiday in a French supermarket, found the perfect 14/15mm open ended spanner.

On my current fixed bikes, both front and rear are the same size nuts, but I just carry the small adjustable in my tool bag to get me home.


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

I appear to have got the chain less slack, it fell off when I turned the bike upside down. However, I really struggled to not have brake rub! Riding the bike later will show me whether I succeeded! It doesn't sound like its rubbing now with the wheels spinning but time will tell!


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## potsy (8 Apr 2015)

Sounds like you're getting closer to having it sorted, good luck with it.
Will probably be having similar troubles myself when I get mine in a couple of weeks, won't be going far on it until I've got the hang of this.


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

potsy said:


> Sounds like you're getting closer to having it sorted, good luck with it.
> Will probably be having similar troubles myself when I get mine in a couple of weeks, won't be going far on it until I've got the hang of this.


Have you still not bought a SS?!


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## potsy (8 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> Have you still not bought a SS?!


Any day now, just waitting for the c2w voucher to pop through the letter box


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

I do appear to have some brake rub on the back. I might have to pop by Pearsons at lunchtime


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## Sharky (8 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> I do appear to have some brake rub on the back. I might have to pop by Pearsons at lunchtime


If you've had the back wheel out and the brakes are normal caliper, you've probably just knocked them slightly. Just check that you have the same amount of clearance between brake blocks and rim, before and after applying the brakes. To re-centralise, just grab the whole of the brake caliper and rotate the whole unit in the direction you need.

Cheers Keith


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

Sharky said:


> If you've had the back wheel out and the brakes are normal caliper, you've probably just knocked them slightly. Just check that you have the same amount of clearance between brake blocks and rim, before and after applying the brakes. To re-centralise, just grab the whole of the brake caliper and rotate the whole unit in the direction you need.
> 
> Cheers Keith


I've tried that but it doesn't seem to make a difference!

Ok tried again, just needed to be more firm with it, thanks


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## ayceejay (8 Apr 2015)

I'll try again to be clearer.
If you have had the wheel out and put it back with your admitted lack of skill and knowledge I would suspect that the wheel is not central as a cause for the brake rub.


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

Half a mile up the road, the bloody chain came off. Luckily I had the spanner with me in anticipation, as I couldn't get the chain back over the cogs

I don't think it was down to the position of the wheel. I don't know how to assess the chain tension other than it not looking slack or falling off when turning the bike upside down!

Gah! SS is meant to be simple!


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## Tankengine (8 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> I don't think it was down to the position of the wheel. I don't know how to assess the chain tension other than it not looking slack or falling off when turning the bike upside down!
> 
> Gah! SS is meant to be simple!



I usually go by middle of chain, finger under and lift upwards - if there is more than 1 or 2 cm movement it's too slack. Seems to work for me but I mostly just work on trial and error with it.


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## jim55 (8 Apr 2015)

If it ( the chain ) looks tight I.e not sagging then it'll prob b ok for ss , if ur wanting to run it fixed that's a diff matter but as is I'd invest in a chain tug that fits on dropout and by screwing/ tightening the bolt it pulls wheel back and therefore tightens chain ,but it's a fine balance , too tight and it becomes a bind on sprocket and wears stuff faster , you can tell though cos when it's too tight it makes a kinda Graunching / grinding noise when u turn pedals


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## ayceejay (8 Apr 2015)

This is turning into a saga Vicky. I think you need o invest in a work stand to start with but then chain tugs as shown



You use the tugs to pull the wheel into position (with the axle nuts loose) and to get the chain tension right, Then you tighten the nuts. The
nuts should look like this and the knurled washer should move independently of the nut proper this allows you to really tighten without damaging your frame.


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## jim55 (8 Apr 2015)

Great post and explained


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

ayceejay said:


> This is turning into a saga Vicky. I think you need o invest in a work stand to start with but then chain tugs as shown
> View attachment 85144
> 
> You use the tugs to pull the wheel into position (with the axle nuts loose) and to get the chain tension right, Then you tighten the nuts. The
> ...


Yes, that's what I'm doing. It's quite hard with one pair of clumsy hands. I had an extra pair courtesy of @jefmcg this afternoon  However, knowing what chain tension is 'right' is the mysterious part here, how tight it should be


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## fossyant (8 Apr 2015)

Are you done yet.


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

fossyant said:


> Are you done yet.


I'm not doing anything with the bike now


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## potsy (8 Apr 2015)

How long before a hardly used Pearson single speed appears in the for sale forum? 

At least I've learnt something from this thread, I now know what chain tugs are for


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## GGJ (8 Apr 2015)

Chain tension should be around 1/2" (12mm) of play in the longest section. If it is too slack it will fall off, too tight and you'll ruin the chainring and rear gear


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## fossyant (8 Apr 2015)

Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws. Then nip up the non drive side. If tension is out then undo drive side and adjust.

You 'walk' the wheel into place.Then tighten up tight.


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

Surely you pull the wheel towards you, and not push it as that makes the chain more slack


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## jim55 (8 Apr 2015)

fossyant said:


> Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws. Then nip up the non drive side. If tension is out then undo drive side and adjust.
> 
> You 'walk' the wheel into place.Then tighten up tight.


^^^ this is the way to do it but we are talking about vickster ( who didn't know what a chainstay was lol)


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## jim55 (8 Apr 2015)

If ur standing behind the bike then you pull the wheel towards you but if ur experienced and standing at side of bike then pushing / making wheel move towards tightening up the chain / whatever you wana call it - will work


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## jim55 (8 Apr 2015)

Cos u have a bike lol


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## Sharky (8 Apr 2015)

To get the right tension, I just jam my hand between the seat tube and the tyre and tighten up both nuts with my free hand and then the spanner. As long as it doesn't grind, it should be about right. As others have said, the chain should be able to move up &down about half an inch.

But one more complexity, chainrings are not always round. You can get tight spots and slack spots. If this happens position the cranks where the tight spot is and then tension the chain. You will know if your rings are not quite true when you have varying degrees of chain slack as you rotate the pedals.

Cheers Keith


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## ayceejay (8 Apr 2015)

This is where I politely bow out of this thread


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## vickster (8 Apr 2015)

Thanks for your help


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## RedRider (9 Apr 2015)

It's a lot easier to show than tell isn't?
I was unsure about chain tension too so I asked a mechanic to show me and now I know. As others have said, half to three quarters of an inch slack at the tightest spot will be just right but I'm sure Pearsons will be happy to show.
After then it'll be easier each time you do it.
Far easier than faffing about with gears.


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## potsy (9 Apr 2015)

I plan to get the lbs to give me a quick demo when I pick mine up, I'm sure it will be fine with a bit of practice.

How is it now @vickster?


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## vickster (9 Apr 2015)

potsy said:


> I plan to get the lbs to give me a quick demo when I pick mine up, I'm sure it will be fine with a bit of practice.
> 
> How is it now @vickster?


Not ridden as been in office

Might pop to Pearsons first thing if time / awake!!


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## totallyfixed (9 Apr 2015)

Did anyone mention that it is also useful to find the tightest point on the chain as you turn the pedals [easier with bike inverted] because the vast majority of chainrings are not round.
You then tighten the chain at this point. Just trying to be helpful. .


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## I like Skol (9 Apr 2015)

fossyant said:


> Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws. Then nip up the non drive side. If tension is out then undo drive side and adjust.
> 
> You 'walk' the wheel into place.Then tighten up tight.


This is what I would do/did do when my kids had their single speed 1st bikes and also when I was a lad starting out, back in the day, when we was too poor to have them fancy geared thingy-ma-jigs


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## fossyant (9 Apr 2015)

PS Most chain tugs don't fit the Pearson frame. I have a Wills Wheels Version, same frame, but in a FASTER red colour. The tugs I ordered wouldn't fit the dropouts.


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## vickster (9 Apr 2015)

fossyant said:


> PS Most chain tugs don't fit the Pearson frame. I have a Wills Wheels Version, same frame, but in a FASTER red colour. The tugs I ordered wouldn't fit the dropouts.


It has them, I assume they fit. Not sure what time I'll be able to get there to get the chain checked. Hopefully I can ride the mile as I've got a sore foot which hurts walking


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## Cuchilo (10 Apr 2015)

Is that from kicking the bike ?


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## vickster (10 Apr 2015)

Sorted  And shown how best to do too...hopefully however I won't need to remove the wheel for a very long time with brand new Pro4 endurance tyres fitted


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## potsy (10 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> Sorted  And shown how best to do too...hopefully however I won't need to remove the wheel for a very long time with brand new Pro4 endurance tyres fitted


Go on then, how did they show you?


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## vickster (10 Apr 2015)

potsy said:


> Go on then, how did they show you?


To hold the bolt with one hand, and stedy the tyre with the other while pulling towards and then how to tighten and straighten the wheel...he made it look easy...if it is only time will tell!


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## phantasmagoriana (10 Apr 2015)

fossyant said:


> Chain tugs are a bit of a faff. You don't really need them. Just get the chain tight by pushing the wheel back on the drive side. Nip up the nut, then square the wheel in the frame between the two chainsaws.


Sounds dangerous!  I'm glad my bike didn't come with any chainsaws...

On the portable 15mm spanners front, I carry one of these in my saddle pack: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-2812-Spanner-Stubby-15mm/dp/B0039ULMWI


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## Smurfy (13 Apr 2015)

GGJ said:


> Chain tension should be around 1/2" (12mm) of play in the longest section. If it is too slack it will fall off, too tight and you'll ruin the chainring and rear gear


In my experience this is about right ^^^^^

The only tricky bit is that most setups have a bit of eccentricity in them, and so the tension will vary slightly as the cranks and wheel rotate.


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## potsy (28 Apr 2015)

vickster said:


> To hold the bolt with one hand, and stedy the tyre with the other while pulling towards and then how to tighten and straighten the wheel...he made it look easy...if it is only time will tell!


Vickster, I've been doing a bit of wheel/chain tensioning these last few days and it is definitely something that will get easier with a bit of practice.
I used this video to get the basic idea, used the stand like in the vid but I'm sure it will still be useful to see if you are turning the bike upside down instead.

Ps- The guy is a bit eccentric but seems to know his stuff 


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61I2kGKC1eg&list=WL&index=43



Also tried a new tyre lever that helps replace the tyre as well as getting them off, certainly helped though you still have to be careful not to trap the tube.
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/crankbrothers-speedier-lever-hangtag-id75490.html


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## Old Plodder (16 May 2015)

.....and especially if you are riding fixed, make sure you check it, (and the wheelnuts), regularly.


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