# Robjh's wee tour of the Highlands



## robjh (29 Jul 2016)

I've just bought my return train tickets to Inverness for this Sunday 31st July, so now there's no going back.
After a protracted struggle with Virgin East Coast website and customer services I have reserved cycle spaces as far as Edinburgh. This was so convoluted that it defeated the booking staff at my local station.
I've booked a £13 bed in a hostel in Edinburgh for Sunday night. It may be great or I may be kept awake all night by partying multi-national teens, but it is central, it offers bike parking and gives me a chance for a bit of sightseeing in Scotland's capital.

Then next day: no-one has been able to tell me if my onward train ticket to Inverness will be valid after a break of journey, so I will either carry on by train to Inverness, or make new plans. Either way, the adventure really starts there.

I've got a tent with me and some anti-midge stuff, but have found the Scottish Independent Hostels website which might be life savers on rainy or bitey nights. As for destinations, I'll be heading north-west, and hope at least to cross Bealach na Ba, and could conceivably reach Cape Wrath. Or not. I have 10 or so days and no need to fix my plans too far in advance.

Anyway, just off to start packing.


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## Crackle (29 Jul 2016)

Look forward to reading your escapades.


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## MiK1138 (29 Jul 2016)

I'd dump the midge stuff Highland Midgies laugh at Midge repellant. i think they see it as an insult so harass you even more


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## robjh (29 Jul 2016)

MiK1138 said:


> I'd dump the midge stuff Highland Midgies laugh at Midge repellant. i think they see it as an insult so harass you even more


Would Irn Bru work any better?


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## Roadrider48 (29 Jul 2016)

Have a blast mate!
I like a bit of a mystery tour myself.


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## Fab Foodie (29 Jul 2016)

Enjoy! I'm having a ball!


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## raleighnut (29 Jul 2016)

Have fun.


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## MiK1138 (29 Jul 2016)

The best thing is Avon's Skin so Soft as recommended by the British Army


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## Crackle (29 Jul 2016)

robjh said:


> Scottish Independent Hostels website


I love that. Way back when, the only way to find those places was by word of mouth from fellow travellers or getting hold of a fabled printed guide which I once managed to do and which freed me from the impossibility of booking SYHA hostels in August. There's some cracking hostels there. Some of them look so interesting I'd plan a tour around them. I'd love to spend a night on Iona for instance and look around in peace rather than fight my way through the coachloads.


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## iandg (29 Jul 2016)

MiK1138 said:


> The best thing is Avon's Skin so Soft as recommended by the British Army



Smidge

They even do a 'midge' forecast

edit: Seems to work OK in the Western Isles, but when I gave my small travel sample to Bill Plumtree of the other place he commented that it wasn't as effective in the denser midge infested area of Fort William.


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## snorri (29 Jul 2016)

I like your style, that's my sort of planning.
Enjoy!


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## robjh (30 Jul 2016)

Had to renew a few bits of gear for the trip. These are my old and new stoves. I've always gone for these minimalist little contraptions as they are so small and light, and have never had much cause to complain. After 22 years service the old one was past its prime. Solid fuel tablets on the right.


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## gasinayr (30 Jul 2016)

The latest midge repellent is Gin, yes Gin, rub some over your skin and if any left drink it.
Something to do with the juniper berries ( i think ) that midges don't like
Hope the weather is kind to you, have a blast


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## Crackle (30 Jul 2016)

Midges like everything. Ditch the tent, hit the hostels, Rob. Once you've been eaten once you will remember these words.


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## robjh (30 Jul 2016)

User14044mountain said:


> Have a great tour, Rob





gasinayr said:


> The latest midge repellent is Gin, yes Gin, rub some over your skin and if any left drink it.
> Something to do with the juniper berries ( i think ) that midges don't like
> Hope the weather is kind to you, have a blast


Thanks all for the good wishes



Crackle said:


> Midges like everything. Ditch the tent, hit the hostels, Rob. Once you've been eaten once you will remember these words.


My experience may yet prove you right. I will be reporting back.
I've printed out 2 different maps of hostels/bunkhouses all across W Scotland just in case.

The bike is now loaded up and looking mysteriously heavily laden for such a short trip. I put it down to :
- a tent takes up more room than a bivvy bag
- I have head-to-toe waterproofs packed
- I have extra clothes in case of cold weather

Also my new Ortlieb rear panniers pack narrower but higher than my old Altura ones so it may just exaggerate the difference in my eyes.


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## robjh (30 Jul 2016)

User14044mountain said:


> Don't forget to tape a radio to your handlebars like @Glow worm


I'm trying to cut down the weight, I don't need extra ideas of things to take!


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## snorri (30 Jul 2016)

robjh said:


> I have extra clothes in case of cold weather


It's getting warmer for sure, I noticed the last of the winter snow had melted off my local Ben earlier this week .


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## Dave 123 (30 Jul 2016)

You've left space in the panniers for roadside courgettes or haggis then?


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## robjh (30 Jul 2016)

Dave 123 said:


> You've left space in the panniers for roadside courgettes or haggis then?


I've heard you have to cycle fast to catch the haggis in the wild.


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## Pat "5mph" (30 Jul 2016)

Just take light waterproofs, it's so hot here now (for our standard) that it is better to get a bit wet than to boil in the bag.
Take a light windproof gilet for the hills, this and a long sleeved baselayer is enough if you like to set out very early in the morning.
It has been very hot from around 10am till late at night.


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## robjh (30 Jul 2016)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Just take light waterproofs, it's so hot here now (for our standard) that it is better to get a bit wet than to boil in the bag.
> Take a light windproof gilet for the hills, this and a long sleeved baselayer is enough if you like to set out very early in the morning.
> It has been very hot from around 10am till late at night.


But Pat, you're in sunny Glasgae, that's almost the tropics compared to where I'm going.
Nonetheless, I think you may be onto something. Ignore the rain here, but just look at those temperatures





(exits to retrieve a layer of clothing from the bottom of a pannier)


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Loaded and ready to go. Where did all that stuff come from?


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## midlife (31 Jul 2016)

Empty bottle cage mounts...... saving weight ? 

Shaun


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## coffeejo (31 Jul 2016)

Pat "5mph" said:


> Just take light waterproofs, it's so hot here now (for our standard) that it is better to get a bit wet than to boil in the bag.
> Take a light windproof gilet for the hills, this and a long sleeved baselayer is enough if you like to set out very early in the morning.
> It has been very hot from around 10am till late at night.





robjh said:


> (exits to retrieve a layer of clothing from the bottom of a pannier)



I predict that winter will be arriving significantly ahead of schedule this year.


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## Mollydoo (31 Jul 2016)

robjh said:


> I've just bought my return train tickets to Inverness for this Sunday 31st July, so now there's no going back.
> After a protracted struggle with Virgin East Coast website and customer services I have reserved cycle spaces as far as Edinburgh. This was so convoluted that it defeated the booking staff at my local station.
> I've booked a £13 bed in a hostel in Edinburgh for Sunday night. It may be great or I may be kept awake all night by partying multi-national teens, but it is central, it offers bike parking and gives me a chance for a bit of sightseeing in Scotland's capital.
> 
> ...


What an adventure love the idea of having no real fixed plans. Are you on your own, with just all your kit on your bike? So you are just stopping as you need to overnight. Sounds great, keep us posted


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## Rohloff_Brompton_Rider (31 Jul 2016)

I hope you have a good time and going by fab foodie's experience of hostelling you've chosen wisely.


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## Hill Wimp (31 Jul 2016)

Have a great time Rob, looking forward to hearing about the trip and seeing the photos.

16 degrees sounds a bit Arctic for a wimpy southerner like me


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## AnneW (31 Jul 2016)

Have a great time! Looking forward to hearing about your trip. 

Avon Skin So Soft is as good as it gets for midges. But the best thing you can do is get a good bite cream, coz sure as eggs is eggs the little blighters will win. It doesn't stop Scotland being wonderful though. 

Enjoy


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> Have a great time Rob, looking forward to hearing about the trip and seeing the photos.
> 
> 16 degrees sounds a bit Arctic for a wimpy southerner like me


I'm counting on the rash from midge bites to keep me warm


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Now on the train to Edinburgh, using the free wifi, Virgin is good for something after all. Approaching Newark and it's very flat here.
Only 8.3 miles ridden so far, from home to station.
Now, where 's that refreshment trolley?


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## Hill Wimp (31 Jul 2016)

robjh said:


> I'm counting on the rash from midge bites to keep me warm


Oh and don't waste the Gin unless you are drinking it


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> Oh and don't waste the Gin unless you are drinking it


Don't drink and cycle, that's the key. Get off the bike first then get sloshed


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## Fab Foodie (31 Jul 2016)

Enjoy Rob. Have to say that my freewheeling adventure is one of the best things I've ever done .... And still no midge action here in the outer Hebrides.
Weather changes very quickly and can still be cold. Independent hostels are ace!


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> Enjoy Rob. Have to say that my freewheeling adventure is one of the best things I've ever done .... And still no midge action here in the outer Hebrides.
> Weather changes very quickly and can still be cold. Independent hostels are ace!



A qurstion for you @Fab Foodie : have you been asked for photo ID at hostels? The first hostel turned me away and refunded my money as I had no driving licence, passport etc to show them. Gone a bit upmarket now and have got a bed for the night (single room!), but I hope it's not going to be a general problem.


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## Pat "5mph" (31 Jul 2016)

robjh said:


> have you been asked for photo ID at hostels?


Yes, we have on our recent tour, but we were told this would happen at the time of booking.
Only the person that booked was asked for ID.
I cycled home from work this evening at 7 in a tee shirt, btw, sitting now with all windows plus back door open


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

That was a good first day - a long ttain ride with a window seat, passing Durham cathedral, Holy Island, and many views out to sea. Had some shenanngans with the hostel I'd booked but all resolved with another room nearby and at least I should get a good sleep
I then spent 5 hours riding round Edinburgh looking at famous and less famous sights, views and general streetscapes. It's a striking place that looks every bit one of the great European historic cities.
But this evening was rainy and quite chilly - and oh those cobbles!
Still, I got out as far as Leith, and did a circuit of the road around Arthur!s Seat in the dark, clocking up 18 miles in all,


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Much of Edinnburgh looked like this when I ventured from the hostel


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

Fine dining, Edinburgh 2016


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## iandg (31 Jul 2016)

robjh said:


> Much of Edinnburgh looked like this when I ventured from the hostel
> View attachment 137176



It was just down there that someone offered me drugs - quite flattered as a 50+ year old.


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## robjh (31 Jul 2016)

wicker man said:


> It was just down there that someone offered me drugs - quite flattered as a 50+ year old.


Maybe I should feel insulted that they didn't offer me any then! Perhaps the dealers don't come out in the rain


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## Fab Foodie (1 Aug 2016)

Nope, nothing. Just as well as I have no ID with me other than a credit card. Maybe you're looking shifty?


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## AnneW (1 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Fine dining, Edinburgh 2016
> View attachment 137177



That photo reminds me of our first trip to Edinburgh, a lifetime ago. We arrived late in the evening and couldn't find anywhere to eat (not in our price range anyway). In desperation we went in a pub on Rose Street and asked if he knew anywhere we could get some food - he offered to microwave a scotch pie and beans for us.... tasted fabulous


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## robjh (1 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> Nope, nothing. Just as well as I have no ID with me other than a credit card. Maybe you're looking shifty?


I suspect it's a big city thing. They have a huge international turnover of guests and said the id was to protect them if things went missing. Anyone, possibly a lucky escape as hostel no.1 looked a bit too yoofy for me. As it was, Edinburgh's young seemed to be partying below my window rather than in my dorm last night.


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## raleighnut (1 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I suspect it's a big city thing. They have a huge international turnover of guests and said the id was to protect them if things went missing. Anyone, possibly a lucky escape as hostel no.1 looked a bit too yoofy for me. As it was, Edinburgh's young seemed to be partying below my window rather than in my dorm last night.


The YHA in England require photo ID nowadays, I would expect the SYHA would too. Independent hostels may well not though.


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## robjh (2 Aug 2016)

Now at Comrie Croft campsite in Strathearn. Day 2 involved another lightning bike tour of Edinburgh, then crossing the Forth Bridge (v good), through Dunfermline (don't bother) then a small hill section across to Gleneagles. It's been quite gentle countryside so far that reminds me of mid Wales, but the Highlands start today as I head for Crianlarich and points west.


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## AnneW (2 Aug 2016)

I love that part of the world - but I've not cycled it. Yet...


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## iandg (2 Aug 2016)

Stayed in Comrie on a recent holiday and got a few rides done in the area. Comrie Croft looked an excellent facility but never got chance to visit.


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## Mo1959 (2 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Now at Comrie Croft campsite in Strathearn. Day 2 involved another lightning bike tour of Edinburgh, then crossing the Forth Bridge (v good), through Dunfermline (don't bother) then a small hill section across to Gleneagles. It's been quite gentle countryside so far that reminds me of mid Wales, but the Highlands start today as I head for Crianlarich and points west.
> View attachment 137347


Just a few miles away from me in Crieff. It's looking very overcast but I think you should be ok until around teatimeish before any rain arrives. Enjoy the rest of your trip.


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## robjh (2 Aug 2016)

Mo1959 said:


> Just a few miles away from me in Crieff. It's looking very overcast but I think you should be ok until around teatimeish before any rain arrives. Enjoy the rest of your trip.


Came through Crieff last night. So close but I never knew! Have just hit the rain now at Crianlarich.


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## robjh (3 Aug 2016)

Bad news today, which may spell the end of this tour. Out on a beautiful but very quiet road my rear hub suddenly seized up. Hard to explain exactly but one locknut seemed to be tightening ever harder into the hub, and forcing the other one out the other side so that the wheel effectively shifted sidewards along the axle until the wheel hit the stays and wouldn't turn. The hub itself was near immovable too. Yeeuch.
I shouldered my luggage and somehow front-wheeled the bike for a couple of miles, hoping to reach the next village and rail line some 4 miles away, but it was hard. Eventually a saviour appeared in the form of Marko heading my way in his van, and he took me all the way to Mallaig where I had a hostel booked. What a star.
Now found out Mallaig has no bike shop and i need to catch train back to Fort William tomorrow. However I fear the hub may not be repairable, and barring them having the perfect touring wheel in the shop, it looks like home time for me.
And just as it was getting really good!


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## iandg (3 Aug 2016)

Not good


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## robjh (3 Aug 2016)

Campsite at Glencoe, between the downpours


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## robjh (3 Aug 2016)

Crossing Rannoch Moor en route to Glencoe yesterday. Bleakly awesome despite the rain


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## Pat "5mph" (3 Aug 2016)

Shame for the mechanic mishap, hope you can solve it!
I am enjoying reading this, the Loch Rannoch moor is awesome, did you see any deer?


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## Fab Foodie (4 Aug 2016)

Bummer. Am also home 2 days early for other reasons. Hope you can fix the hub. Storms on west coast by weekend!


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## coffeejo (4 Aug 2016)

Sorry to hear that. Fingers crossed for a successful fix.


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## Booyaa (4 Aug 2016)

Rannoch Moor is at it's best when it looks bleak. Beautiful place.


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## Hill Wimp (4 Aug 2016)

bad luck Rob. Hope you can fix it.
The photos are fab despite the weather so hope you get to see lots more and share with us.


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## AnneW (4 Aug 2016)

Love that area in all weathers, stunning. 

Really sorry about your bike, big up for Marko giving you a lift. Fingers crossed that Fort William bike shop can fix it abd you can continue, I'm enjoying following your trip. 

Enjoy that train ride over.


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## TrishnBonnie (4 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> A qurstion for you @Fab Foodie : have you been asked for photo ID at hostels? The first hostel turned me away and refunded my money as I had no driving licence, passport etc to show them. Gone a bit upmarket now and have got a bed for the night (single room!), but I hope it's not going to be a general problem.



When I stayed in the Manchester youth hostel earlier this year I didn't have photo Id with me but they accepted my bank card (I had already paid online). I can't believe you were turned away that's terrible.

Hope you can continue your trip


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## raleighnut (4 Aug 2016)

Hope you manage to get the wheel repaired/replaced @robjh


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## robjh (4 Aug 2016)

TrishnBonnie said:


> When I stayed in the Manchester youth hostel earlier this year I didn't have photo Id with me but they accepted my bank card (I had already paid online). I can't believe you were turned away that's terrible.
> 
> Hope you can continue your trip


I've been looking and a few actually say 'photo ID required' 'eg. the one at Fort William, so I won't be staying there tonight


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## Nibor (4 Aug 2016)

Good luck with the wheel


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## TrishnBonnie (4 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I've been looking and a few actually say 'photo ID required' 'eg. the one at Fort William, so I won't be staying there tonight


I phoned the YHA beforehand and was told my bank card would be ok but maybe Scottish association is different.


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## AnneW (4 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> Bummer. Am also home 2 days early for other reasons. Hope you can fix the hub. Storms on west coast by weekend!



Hope you're OK Fab Foodie.


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## robjh (4 Aug 2016)

I'm back on the road thanks to Nevis Cycles at Fort William, who sold me a new wheel. The hub was well and truly, grindingly, knackered.
So I'm goinng to head back to Mallaig and pick up my trail, with only about a day lost.
The train ride from Mallaig to FW was magnificent, and now I want to see some of those sandy beaches from bike level.

View from Mallaig hostel this morning


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## snorri (4 Aug 2016)

Good to hear you are mobile again.
Keep an eye on the forecast, Sunday could be a bit rough
http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/warnings/#?tab=warnings&regionName=he&fcTime=1470524400


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## raleighnut (4 Aug 2016)

Glad to hear you got sorted.


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## Fab Foodie (4 Aug 2016)

AnneW said:


> Hope you're OK Fab Foodie.


Fine thanks! Just had some family admin stuff to do that couldn't really wait .... No big deal.


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## Fab Foodie (4 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I'm back on the road thanks to Nevis Cycles at Fort William, who sold me a new wheel. The hub was well and truly, grindingly, knackered.
> So I'm goinng to head back to Mallaig and pick up my trail, with only about a day lost.
> The train ride from Mallaig to FW was magnificent, and now I want to see some of those sandy beaches from bike level.
> 
> ...


Malls if looks bustling compared to places I've been! Good to hear that you're on your way. Hoorah for Nevis Cycles!


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## Hill Wimp (4 Aug 2016)

Excellent news Rob. Hope that's the only problem you get this tour.


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## robjh (4 Aug 2016)

Tha


snorri said:


> Good to hear you are mobile again.
> Keep an eye on the forecast, Sunday could be a bit rough
> http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/public/weather/warnings/#?tab=warnings&regionName=he&fcTime=1470524400


Thanks for the warning. It's beautiful tonight so I'll enjoy it whle I can.


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## robjh (4 Aug 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> Excellent news Rob. Hope that's the only problem you get this tour.


Well that, being turned away from a hostel, a few midge bites and a storm on its way. Nothing serious


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## Crackle (4 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I'm back on the road thanks to Nevis Cycles at Fort William, who sold me a new wheel. The hub was well and truly, grindingly, knackered.
> So I'm goinng to head back to Mallaig and pick up my trail, with only about a day lost.
> The train ride from Mallaig to FW was magnificent, and now I want to see some of those sandy beaches from bike level.
> 
> ...



Late to the thread but I would have recommended Nevis Cycles, so all's well that ends well.


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## Fab Foodie (4 Aug 2016)

Crackle said:


> Late to the thread but I would have recommended Nevis Cycles, so all's well that ends well.


Keep up next time will you ...


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## Crackle (4 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> Keep up next time will you ...


Sorry, I'm trying. Phones, power, WiFi, that sort of thing.


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## Fab Foodie (4 Aug 2016)

Crackle said:


> Sorry, I'm trying. Phones, power, WiFi, that sort of thing.


I understand and forgive .... A week in the outer Hebrides is like wifi deprivation ....


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## AnneW (5 Aug 2016)

Robjh glad you got the bike sorted and the trip us back on. The train ride is amazing isn't it? And you're in the best places for beaches, Camusdarach is stunning. I keep saying we're going to rent the cottage on the beach......


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## robjh (5 Aug 2016)

User13710 said:


> I was in the process of contacting a friend in Fort William to put you up for the night when you posted that you were on the train back to Mallaig! Oh well.


Thanks, a lovely thought. In the end I had a beautiful night camped right by Loch Ailort, but the midge storm this morning was quite something. I think the skin-so-soft must be protecting me from the worst. Back in Mallaig now for the Skye ferry,


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## robjh (5 Aug 2016)

AnneW said:


> Robjh glad you got the bike sorted and the trip us back on. The train ride is amazing isn't it? And you're in the best places for beaches, Camusdarach is stunning. I keep saying we're going to rent the cottage on the beach......


Indeed, I passed some beauties this morning, and it's sunny so you can imagine how it all looked.


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

Wild camping by Loch Ailort on Thursday night





I'm now (Sat morning) in a hostel at Broadford on Skye. A nice hostel but hard to sleep in a hot airless room of 4 with a heavy snorer on the bottom bunk. Looking forward to camping again! I got a litttle taste of Skye yesterday evening when, leaving the bags at the hostel I rode a minor road across the island to Elgol and back, below the Cuillin hills, but I will leave the rest of Skye for another year as I want to carry on up the west coast (storms or no!).


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Wild camping by Loch Ailort on Thursday night
> View attachment 138050
> 
> I'm now (Sat morning) in a hostel at Broadford on Skye. A nice hostel but hard to sleep in a hot airless room of 4 with a heavy snorer on the bottom bunk. Looking forward to camping again! I got a litttle taste of Skye yesterday evening when, leaving the bags at the hostel I rode a minor road across the island to Elgol and back, below the Cuillin hills, but I will leave the rest of Skye for another year as I want to carry on up the west coast (storms or no!).


I'm usually the snorer in the dorm so I never have such problems .... But being in an airy tent is so much nicer. Nice wild camping spot.


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## Crankarm (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Wild camping by Loch Ailort on Thursday night
> View attachment 138050
> 
> I'm now (Sat morning) in a hostel at Broadford on Skye. A nice hostel but hard to sleep in a hot airless room of 4 with a heavy snorer on the bottom bunk. Looking forward to camping again! I got a litttle taste of Skye yesterday evening when, leaving the bags at the hostel I rode a minor road across the island to Elgol and back, below the Cuillin hills, but I will leave the rest of Skye for another year as I want to carry on up the west coast (storms or no!).



I went to Fort William, Mallaig and onto Skye to the Trotternish and the Quiraing in early June. All was going well, absolutely stunning scenery, wild camping until I was eaten alive by midges at a crappy campsite in Broadford before hitting the Kyle of Lochalsh and riding over the Bealach na Ba. The shear number of midges was unreal, dense clouds of them and the bites I collected despite having 4 / 5 layers on plus my cycling jacket waterproof trousers, buff and hat, gloves sitting in my zipped up tent was shocking. You can hardly see them, unlike mossies, as they are so small - about 1mm in length. I counted over 400 bites and these didn't include the ones that hadn't yet surfaced! Hundreds were to start appearing even two weeks after I was home in places I didn't even know I had and areas I am sure I did not uncover. They can easily go through fabric as they are so small. Ideally you need midge netting or a heavy duty windproof or waterproof fabric. Any exposed skin however small is a potential target for these little ****ers! Suffice to say the next morning I called it quits and came home. Fortunately I was still able to get a cheapish train ticket for about £60. All the BnBs + hostels I saw were full and I only saw one other tent a couple of young Belgian lads riding on road bikes who obviously didn't know about midges! Lots of motorhomes Swiss and Italian, and bikers. Scotland any time outside winter is a no-go because of the midges unless you have body armour and certainly do NOT camp. Smidge was totally useless in the end against the onslaught of midges, they were just that many. Putting your tent up in a swarm is not fun. There were that many I could easily have made a midge soup or a sauce with them as I repeatedly splashed on the Smidge in desperation. Never again, well certainly not cycling or camping and not in summer. The scenery is spectacular and the people friendly, but the midges make it miserable. Rather you than me.


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## Crankarm (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I've just bought my return train tickets to Inverness for this Sunday 31st July, so now there's no going back.
> After a protracted struggle with Virgin East Coast website and customer services I have reserved cycle spaces as far as Edinburgh. This was so convoluted that it defeated the booking staff at my local station.
> I've booked a £13 bed in a hostel in Edinburgh for Sunday night. It may be great or I may be kept awake all night by partying multi-national teens, but it is central, it offers bike parking and gives me a chance for a bit of sightseeing in Scotland's capital.
> 
> ...



I only have praise for Virgin East Coast Main Line trains. My journey with them travelling with bike and full set of panniers was hassle free.Their website is extremely easy to use and book bikes (unlike Scotrail) and bike storage is in the goods carriage at the rear of the train which can only be accessed by train staff so your stuff is safe. The train was clean comfortable and on time. I got a return ticket with bike to Mallaig/Fort William for not very much money at all, under £50. I wish more train companies were like them with respect to carrying bikes.


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## raleighnut (6 Aug 2016)

Crankarm said:


> I went to Fort William, Mallaig and onto Skye to the Trotternish and the Quiraing in early June. All was going well, absolutely stunning scenery, wild camping until I was eaten alive by midges at a crappy campsite in Broadford before hitting the Kyle of Lochalsh and riding over the Bealach na Ba. The shear number of midges was unreal, dense clouds of them and the bites I collected despite having 4 / 5 layers on plus my cycling jacket waterproof trousers, buff and hat, gloves sitting in my zipped up tent was shocking. You can hardly see them, unlike mossies, as they are so small - about 1mm in length. I counted over 400 bites and these didn't include the ones that hadn't yet surfaced! Hundreds were to start appearing even two weeks after I was home in places I didn't even know I had and areas I am sure I did not uncover. They can easily go through fabric as they are so small. Ideally you need midge netting or a heavy duty windproof or waterproof fabric. Any exposed skin however small is a potential target for these little ****ers! Suffice to say the next morning I called it quits and came home. Fortunately I was still able to get a cheapish train ticket for about £60. All the BnBs + hostels I saw were full and I only saw one other tent a couple of young Belgian lads riding on road bikes who obviously didn't know about midges! Lots of motorhomes Swiss and Italian, and bikers. Scotland any time outside winter is a no-go because of the midges unless you have body armour and certainly do NOT camp. Smidge was totally useless in the end against the onslaught of midges, they were just that many. Putting your tent up in a swarm is not fun. There were that many I could easily have made a midge soup or a sauce with them as I repeatedly splashed on the Smidge in desperation. Never again, well certainly not cycling or camping and not in summer. The scenery is spectacular and the people friendly, but the midges make it miserable. Rather you than me.


The trick to camping in Scotland is to be as high up as you can get, Ideally on top of a Monroe.


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## Crackle (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Wild camping by Loch Ailort on Thursday night
> View attachment 138050
> 
> I'm now (Sat morning) in a hostel at Broadford on Skye. A nice hostel but hard to sleep in a hot airless room of 4 with a heavy snorer on the bottom bunk. Looking forward to camping again! I got a litttle taste of Skye yesterday evening when, leaving the bags at the hostel I rode a minor road across the island to Elgol and back, below the Cuillin hills, but I will leave the rest of Skye for another year as I want to carry on up the west coast (storms or no!).


You look like a vagrant, Rob, you untidy bugger.


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## raleighnut (6 Aug 2016)

Crackle said:


> You look like a vagrant, Rob, you untidy bugger.


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

Crackle said:


> You look like a vagrant, Rob, you untidy bugger.


I cleared up after me, honest!


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

Crackle said:


> You look like a vagrant, Rob, you untidy bugger.


Anyway, you think that was bad. See here what just 6 days of cycle touring in Scotland can do to a man


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## Hill Wimp (6 Aug 2016)

Rob we had midges on the way down to the coast today honest. I certainly ate a few dozen however it did seem to be an isolated swarm thankfully.


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## Hill Wimp (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Anyway, you think that was bad. See here what just 6 days of cycle touring in Scotland can do to a man
> View attachment 138093


Cycle Chat poster boy for sure


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

A


Hill Wimp said:


> Rob we had midges on the way down to the coast today honest. I certainly ate a few dozen however it did seem to be an isolated swarm thankfully.


Aye, the weather in Scotland was too bad for them


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Anyway, you think that was bad. See here what just 6 days of cycle touring in Scotland can do to a man
> View attachment 138093


You should visit the islands ... Far better for your looks ;-)


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## Hill Wimp (6 Aug 2016)

No you need to go ruff and rugged like Rob.

Good second place in poster boy world though


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## Speicher (6 Aug 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> No you need to go ruff and rugged like Rob.
> 
> Good second First place in poster boy world though


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> No you need to go ruff and rugged like Rob.
> 
> Good second place in poster boy world though


Damnit, I'd just shaved!


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> No you need to go ruff and rugged like Rob.
> 
> Good second place in poster boy world though



Rough enough?


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

Speicher said:


>


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## Speicher (6 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


>


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

Speicher said:


>


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> Rough enough?
> View attachment 138141


Moody too, but what's with the two black eyes?


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## Hill Wimp (6 Aug 2016)

Hiding two red ones from a night on the beer probably.


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> No you need to go ruff and rugged like Rob.
> 
> Good second place in poster boy world though


You're just trying to harvest likes


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## iandg (6 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> You should visit the islands ... Far better for your looks ;-)
> 
> View attachment 138140




(Excuse the jersey) - Don't know what part of thew islands you visited?






(about 500km into a 600km DIY)


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

wicker man said:


> (Excuse the jersey)


Intruder alert!


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Anyway, you think that was bad. See here what just 6 days of cycle touring in Scotland can do to a man
> View attachment 138093


Bare Grills (sic) has rugged competition now ....


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

wicker man said:


> (Excuse the jersey) - Don't know what part of thew islands you visited?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The one with male grooming products ;-)


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Moody too, but what's with the two black eyes?


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## Hill Wimp (6 Aug 2016)

Blimey this is getting more rugged each time I log on.


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> Blimey this is getting more rugged each time I log on.


Rob's threads are born rugged ....


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## iandg (6 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Intruder alert!



Slowly defecting


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

wicker man said:


> Slowly defecting


Oh dear I read an extra letter in that


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## robjh (6 Aug 2016)

I'm in a very jolly hostel called Gerry's at the moment, at Achnashellach.


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## iandg (6 Aug 2016)

Fab Foodie said:


> View attachment 138156
> 
> 
> View attachment 138155
> ...



Bernera?


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## Fab Foodie (6 Aug 2016)

wicker man said:


> Bernera?


Yep .... we had a couple of sessions ....


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## snorri (6 Aug 2016)

Crankarm said:


> Scotland any time outside winter is a no-go because of the midges


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## Fab Foodie (7 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I'm in a very jolly hostel called Gerry's at the moment, at Achnashellach.


Hope you've battened down the hatches ... there's a storm a comin'....


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## robjh (7 Aug 2016)

It's outside already, and is why I chose a hostel rather than camping last night.
It's made me revise my plans a bit. I was hoping to go over the Bealach na Ba pass to Applecross yesterday but you couldn't even see the hill I had to cross, so I'm now going to loop northwards and come back that way in a day or two when the weather's better.

The low spot was yesterday when my shoes filled with water, but these lows are few and fleeting. Even in light rain I am constantly enthralled by the landscapes, the patterns of the clouds on the hillsides, the quality of the light. I'm loving it.


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## coffeejo (7 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> It's outside already, and is why I chose a hostel rather than camping last night.
> It's made me revise my plans a bit. I was hoping to go over the Bealach na Ba pass to Applecross yesterday but you couldn't even see the hill I had to cross, so I'm now going to loop northwards and come back that way in a day or two when the weather's better.
> 
> The low spot was yesterday when my shoes filled with water, but these lows are few and fleeting. Even in light rain I am constantly enthralled by the landscapes, the patterns of the clouds on the hillsides, the quality of the light. I'm loving it.


Don't tease us with long descriptions and no photographs!


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## robjh (7 Aug 2016)

coffeejo said:


> Don't tease us with long descriptions and no photographs!


I'll have many more photos when I'm home and get them from the camera, but here are a few phone pics of varying quality to whet your appetites

Before the rain : Duirinish





In the rain : the A890. Don't you wish all A roads were like this


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## robjh (7 Aug 2016)

Well they weren't lying about the storm. I sailed effortlessly and at high speed the 11 miles to the junction at Achnasheen, where I was almost blown off my bike by the wind coming up the valley from Kinlochewe. It was hard to stand up, and when I remounted it actually did blow me off. I knew then that carrying on in this direction was not an option.

I went into the nearby hotel for a coffee and met two other pairs of cyclists facing the same dilemma. We chatted for a couple of hours while the storm raged, until the German pair went off to catch a train to Kyle of Lochalsh, and I decided to head back to the comforts of Gerry's hostel. The other couple were Anna and Neil from Leeds who booked into the bunkhouse at the hotel, aabandonning their plans of reaching Applecross.
The 11 miles back took me 2 hours, as clouds raced above my head and the wind whipped up breakers on the small lochs I passed. But it had stopped raining, it wasn't too cold and I still enjoyed it.





So now I'm back where I started this morning, with a grand total of 22 miles ridden. It's still a jolly hostel, filling up with new people, including yet another cyclist Nerys who was defeated by the wind a few miles east of here and hitched a lift bike and all. It's been quite a windy time!


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## snorri (7 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Duirinish


.... looking towards Raasay with the peak of Dun Caan on the skyline in centre of picture, and the Crowlin Islands in middle distance.
Great pic., I like it!


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## Fab Foodie (7 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> Well they weren't lying about the storm. I sailed effortlessly and at high speed the 11 miles to the junction at Achnasheen, where I was almost blown off my bike by the wind coming up the valley from Kinlochewe. It was hard to stand up, and when I remounted it actually did blow me off. I knew then that carrying on in this direction was not an option.
> 
> I went into the nearby hotel for a coffee and met two other pairs of cyclists facing the same dilemma. We chatted for a couple of hours while the storm raged, until the German pair went off to catch a train to Kyle of Lochalsh, and I decided to head back to the comforts of Gerry's hostel. The other couple were Anna and Neil from Leeds who booked into the bunkhouse at the hotel, aabandonning their plans of reaching Applecross.
> The 11 miles back took me 2 hours, as clouds raced above my head and the wind whipped up breakers on the small lochs I passed. But it had stopped raining, it wasn't too cold and I still enjoyed it.
> ...


Sounds epic! Loving the updates ....
Sodden shoes was something I got used too as well, after a few days they really honked! The skies too, just fabulous.


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## fimm (8 Aug 2016)

robjh said:


> I'm in a very jolly hostel called Gerry's at the moment, at Achnashellach.


I never met Gerry, but he had a reputation of being a character and a half... he died fairly recently and it is good to hear that the hostel is still going. I understand that it used to be full of all sorts of stuff, is it still like that?
I know the road you cycled up and down rather well as the mountaineering club I'm a member of has a hut off the road just before you get to Achnasheen. (You probably wouldn't have noticed it as it is the other side of the glen from the main road - unless you noticed the boardwalk across the bog.)


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## robjh (9 Aug 2016)

Been over Bealach na Ba and round Applecross peninsula. Fantastic ride and scenery - I'll post more when I have more time and better connection.
Heading home tomorrow


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## AnneW (9 Aug 2016)

I bet you're sorry it's over, I know I am I've enjoyed reading about it.


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## rich p (9 Aug 2016)

I've got a possible 6 days solo escape in early September and was thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada but after reading this @robjh , I'm thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada...


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## robjh (10 Aug 2016)

rich p said:


> I've got a possible 6 days solo escape in early September and was thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada but after reading this @robjh , I'm thinking of heading for the Sierra Nevada...


You'll get fed up with all that sunshine and good food*, don't fool yourself.


*I've bought a souvenir haggis to take back to the wilds of Cambridgeshire.


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## robjh (10 Aug 2016)

fimm said:


> I never met Gerry, but he had a reputation of being a character and a half... he died fairly recently and it is good to hear that the hostel is still going. I understand that it used to be full of all sorts of stuff, is it still like that?
> I know the road you cycled up and down rather well as the mountaineering club I'm a member of has a hut off the road just before you get to Achnasheen. (You probably wouldn't have noticed it as it is the other side of the glen from the main road - unless you noticed the boardwalk across the bog.)


The hostel is now run by a very friendly guy called Simon who took over from Gerry, and has more than a bit of the old hippy about him. It has a log fire, a real communal feel, and loads of old stuff/junk about - old vinyl records from the 70s, and magazines going back just as far. It's the sort if place that gets people together and talking - I recommend it wholeheartedly if you're biking or hiking in the area.


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## robjh (10 Aug 2016)

The storm was clearing by Monday morning and I set out with cyclist Nerys who had been at the hostel for Bealach na Ba, the pass that guards the Applecross peninsula from this side. After a late breakfast in Lochcarron we attacked the climb. The summit is 626 metres, climbing from sea level over about 7 miles including approach roads.
At first it climbs steeply but smoothly above the coast and you think yeah, this is ok. Then you see the sheer-sided corrie above you and think hmm, that looks steep. You puff up the corrie with cars queuing (mostly) patiently to pass you at the frequent passing places on this single-track road. The scenery gets more dramatic, then you turn a corner and see the final hairpins and think 'oh f***'.
But we made it, and what a feeling. The sun was now out apart from a brief icy shower before the summit, and we could see for miles, seawards to Skye and inland to mountain after mountain. We were the only cyclists up there with panniers. We felt more than chuffed.
The road down to Applecross was much less zigzaggy, and with sea views ahead of us the whole way we sailed down joyfully to the coast, the only effort expended in timely grabs on the brake levers.
Photos to follow...


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## robjh (10 Aug 2016)

Leaving the hostel - before the climb





Nearing the top of Bealach na Ba, looking back





At the top


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## robjh (10 Aug 2016)

When we got down to Applecross village Nerys and I headed for the pub. Not just to toast our achievement with a beer, you understand, but also to find her 2 friends who were on a car tour and had arranged to meet her here. Of them there was no sign, but it transpired they'd driven back up the mountain looking for her while we were exploring around the village. After the heights of the Bealach na Ba, the coastal strip was like another world, all whitewashed cottages, little coves and sandy beaches.
Eventually both parties were reunited, and we pitched our tents on a grassy strip by a beach, with other likeminded folk in tents and camper vans.
Then we headed back to the pub for sunset views and hot food and more beverages. So it was I spent a boozy evening with 3 slightly mad Welsh ex-hippy women and a talkative ex-headmaster from Edinburgh who was sat at our table and probably didn't know what had hit him. And great fun it all was too.
When we finally turned in for the night there were deer running along the beach in the dark.

'prawns' from the bay served in the pub at Applecross


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## robjh (10 Aug 2016)

On Tuesday morning I rode with Nerys around the north side of the peninsula, a wonderful ride with stunning views first of the islands, then of Loch Torridon and the mountains of Wester Ross. Some of the gradients were quite severe though and the going at times quite tough.
We split after Shieldaig, and I pushed on to get ultimately to Achnasheen, on the train line for an early morning train to Inverness. It was a cold but beautifully clear night, and at 6.30 this morning I wished I'd brought gloves.
I was on my first train by 7.35, and my eta tonight is 8pm. It's been a good, and at times eventful, trip.

A busy day near Applecross





Loch Torridon


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## Fab Foodie (11 Aug 2016)

Note to self .... Must meet a 'Nerys' on next tour .....


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## Crackle (11 Aug 2016)

Nice one Rob.


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## robjh (11 Aug 2016)

Back home and in the kitchen now - the holiday's not truly over till the last of the white pudding, black pudding and haggis have been eaten






(bought these in Inverness between trains on the way home - you don't find many butchers out in the back country)


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## Goggs (11 Aug 2016)

This has been excellent mate. Very well done!

I was the coalman for Applecross for two years between 1997 - 1999.


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## robjh (11 Aug 2016)

Goggs said:


> I was the coalman for Applecross for two years between 1997 - 1999.


Quite a long coal round I imagine.
I guess some things have changed - you wouldn't believe the number of Tescos home delivery vans driving over the Bealach and round the coast road.


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## AnneW (11 Aug 2016)

This has been great. Thanks Robjh.


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## coffeejo (11 Aug 2016)

AnneW said:


> This has been great. Thanks Robjh.


Where are you going next, @robjh?


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## Pat "5mph" (11 Aug 2016)

Very enjoyable tour report, looking forward to your next one!


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## robjh (11 Aug 2016)

coffeejo said:


> Where are you going next, @robjh?


I'm off to a bike shop in Cambridge tomorrow to buy a new saddle for my road bike, but that's probably not what you meant

My next trip won't be a bike tour, but in this




with Mrs robjh + 2 dogs, we're thinking of heading to Italy shortly for a little while. I will however have the bike on the back for day trips.

As for bike tours, I have (I always have) a few ideas but nothing actually planned at the moment. I toured quite a bit in SE Europe a few years back and would love to return to Romania; around the Alps and central Europe sound good too; maybe Portugal and northern Spain? With more time I'd love to brush up my Chinese and tour parts of western China by bike. But for the moment these remain just ideas....


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## robjh (12 Aug 2016)

I have loaded a few more photos in an album.

Meanwhile, a small memory of last week: A cyclist models classic midge protection gear whilst staring out to sea, having dismally failed to light a fire :


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