# Audax Specific Bikes



## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

I have been saving up toward buying a new road bike. My intention was to get a carbon frame, something like the Boardman Team Carbon.
However, I'm planning on doing more audax riding in the near future, with a view to doing the LEL 2013. I've been undecided about which of my two bikes I would do this with, and still remain so.

My general question is - what do audax riders (of all experiences) feel are the essential features of their bikes that make them audax specific?


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## Noodley (17 Aug 2012)

My preference:
The 'geomerty' of the bike ( I found a road bike was okay upto and including 300k rides, but anything beyoand that and I preferred 'audax/touring geometry - I do not know the technical bits) needs to be comfortable for long rides
Triple chain ring (50-39-30)
Large cassette (13-29 or likewise)
Gel wrap on handlebars
Bombproof wheels (heavy clumpers not required but they need to be able to withstand some considerable degree of punishment)
A saddle that you are comfortable with (ignore anyone telling you that you 'must' buy a brookes)
Mudguards (for your own comfort, minimising cleaning/damage of expensive bits, and so you don't splash people behind you or piss off cafe owners with your wet arse)
Cannae think of anything else specific just now, but may later...


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## mcshroom (17 Aug 2012)

Pretty much what he said ^^^ 

You'll get lots of suggestions for frame materials etc, but the most important thing is a bike that is comfortable. I'd also add room for 25-28mm tyres under the mudguards, and possibly a dynamo hub for longer night rides but not much else.


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

This is helpful, thank you both. 
The point you make about the dynamo is one I'm 'umming and ahhing' about.

I have one coupled with a top-notch light on my Thorn, and can't stand the thought of doing something like LEL without it. But I'm not sure I would want to use my Thorn for a 1400km audax, as it's fairly heavy...


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## mcshroom (17 Aug 2012)

What sort of wheel have you got on the Thorn? If it's a 700c then it should be easily transferable to the audax bike, with light when needed. so you could save the expense of a new wheel. Bit trickier with 26" though.


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## Noodley (17 Aug 2012)

I never bothered with a dynamo, but would probably look into it when if I decide to do longer rides again.


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

mcshroom said:


> What sort of wheel have you got on the Thorn? If it's a 700c then it should be easily transferable to the audax bike, with light when needed. so you could save the expense of a new wheel. Bit trickier with 26" though.


 
It's 26". I had considered taking the light and dynamo from my Thorn and putting them on the Spesh for LEL, though my Thorn wheels are so well built (3500 miles, still true) it seems a bit silly to go taking them apart.

I think my issue is, I'm wondering whether it'd be worth buying an audax specific bike (long distance endurance riding is what I do best). Just been looking through possibilities, but ultimately not sure what I want.


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## Noodley (17 Aug 2012)

I got an e-mail tonight frpm edinburgh bike cooperative and they have some decent looking offers on bikes - the sale starts tomorrow. You might be abler to pick up a bargain 

edit- the sale prices are now showing on their website


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

Just checked that out - thanks for the heads up!
It's not in the sale, but they have an attractively priced Revolution Audax there...


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## Noodley (17 Aug 2012)

pkeenan said:


> Just checked that out - thanks for the heads up!
> It's not in the sale, but they have an attractively priced Revolution Audax there...


 
It shows as being in the sale now, at £500...maybe they are updating in segments, as the website seems to be unavailable every so often. Not sure about the gearing tho - compact gearing rather than triple.


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## StuAff (17 Aug 2012)

Another +1 for Noodley's comments. I've done up to 173 miles on my Viner (full carbon roadie, more sportive than full race geometry), including a couple of 200K audaxes, more than up to the job, but I'd agree that something with mudguards, wider tyre clearance, etc would be sensible. Apart from the already mentioned options, you might want to look at the various urban CX models around these days. Drops, big tyre clearances, usually mounts for racks and full guards, more often than not disc brakes as well. My Trek Portland is in this category, proved superb for covering long distances in all weathers. It's discontinued, sadly, but Trek have got a new model, the Crossrip, in much the same vein, though a lower spec. Planet X have the full carbon Dirty Disco on offer at the moment, but no rack or mudguard mounts on that. Also Boardman CX, Genesis Croix de Fer, Cotic X, and others.


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

@Noodley - Yes. Having said that, I could just swap the Sora triple chain set I have on my Allez to this, etc...
A plan is hatching.

Though I'm wondering about just telling my LBS what I'm after, and seeing if they can build up something to my 'spec'...


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## mcshroom (17 Aug 2012)

We had a chat about that bike a month ago over on YACF. The general consensus seemed to be it was a decent bike, but a few concerns about the weight (12.3kg) and the compact gearing. 

My theory on the gearing would be that lowering it to 1:1 (I have a 28-28 on my current audax bike) wouldn't be that difficult requiring just a new cassette and mtb rear mech, so it wouldn't necessarily worry me too much.


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

StuAff said:


> Another +1 for Noodley's comments. I've done up to 173 miles on my Viner (full carbon roadie, more sportive than full race geometry), including a couple of 200K audaxes, more than up to the job, but I'd agree that something with mudguards, wider tyre clearance, etc would be sensible. Apart from the already mentioned options, you might want to look at the various urban CX models around these days. Drops, big tyre clearances, usually mounts for racks and full guards, more often than not disc brakes as well. My Trek Portland is in this category, proved superb for covering long distances in all weathers. It's discontinued, sadly, but Trek have got a new model, the Crossrip, in much the same vein, though a lower spec. Planet X have the full carbon Dirty Disco on offer at the moment, but no rack or mudguard mounts on that. Also Boardman CX, Genesis Croix de Fer, Cotic X, and others.


 
Lots of suggestions there, thanks! Will look into them all


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

mcshroom said:


> We had a chat about that bike a month ago over on YACF. The general consensus seemed to be it was a decent bike, but a few concerns about the weight (12.3kg) and the compact gearing.
> 
> My theory on the gearing would be that lowering it to 1:1 (I have a 28-28 on my current audax bike) wouldn't be that difficult requiring just a new cassette and mtb rear mech, so it wouldn't necessarily worry me too much.


 
My past few posts have gone up simultaneously with other peoples - so apologies for what looks like a discontinuous stream of posts on my part!

@mcshroom - I hear what you say about the compact gearing. I'm not so sure about the 1:1 gearing though - probably just because I haven't tried it. Might see if I can, though - sounds interesting. Thanks


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## mcshroom (17 Aug 2012)

To be honest, I'm big and fat and climb hills very slowly, so if you're fitter you may not even have to touch the gearing (I can't actually remember using the granny ring too often).


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

Well I never use the granny ring on my Spesh (even when I've had it loaded with panniers), though I guess it's always nice to have a 'fall back' for during long rides, when you get a hill that's just slightly annoying!

I know what all the gearing ratios mean, but it slightly goes over my head as I mainly ride a Rohloff. I think I'll just have to try stuff out.


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## PpPete (17 Aug 2012)

There is some good information here:
http://www.corridori.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=10&Itemid=15

That Revolution Audax is a good package for the price.... but as Noodles says you might want to change to a triple
And the CST tyres.... change them right away


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## middleagecyclist (17 Aug 2012)

Useful thread. Pretty sure i will getting a Paul Hewitt for audax riding in the first half of 2013 for all the reasons already given. Has to have a Carradice though!


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## mcshroom (17 Aug 2012)

middleagecyclist said:


> Has to have a Carradice though!



We'd just assumed that


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

PpPete said:


> There is some good information here:
> http://www.corridori.co.uk/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=10&Itemid=15
> 
> That Revolution Audax is a good package for the price.... but as Noodles says you might want to change to a triple
> And the CST tyres.... change them right away


 
Thanks for that link - very useful.

Yeah, the good thing about the Revolution Audax is that - for that price - one can set about upgrading things earlier. I'd have to whack a Brooks on there, and (at this price) putting a dynamo + light on is possible.


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## pkeenan (17 Aug 2012)

middleagecyclist said:


> Useful thread. Pretty sure i will getting a Paul Hewitt for audax riding in the first half of 2013 for all the reasons already given. Has to have a Carradice though!


 
Which Paul Hewitt were you looking at? I had a wee look there earlier, there seems to be a fair bit of choice under the Audax bracket.


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## frank9755 (18 Aug 2012)

You'll get all sorts of advice. To a large extent it depends on how you want to ride - what speed, etc.

Comfort is necessary but I think that is more about fit than the actual bike. 

My preference would be for a light bike so I would not use your Thorn.

Also, a triple is all well and good but the chain does come off a lot more than on a compact and it happens when you are tired and get clumsy with your shifting. Also, at night, you can't see your gears and the chances of badly cross-chaining are much higher. 

FWIW I have a carbon Hewitt frame with a 34-50 and a wide range rear cassette (11-34). Light, but takes mudguards, takes 28mm tyres, and has the gearing to get me round when I'm tired.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

@frank9755 - thanks for your thoughts on the triple.
I agree about the Thorn - it's just a bit heavy for this. Shame, as it's uber reliable and uber comfortable.

Have been looking at a few things over night. The Thorn Audax (naturally) looks good, though is a bit more than I'd like to pay. Spa Cycles have a Titanium Audax bike, which looks good too - slightly lower price than the Thorn.

I was looking at getting a custom Mercian frame for the job, I could afford the frame - but nothing to go on it!! (If I had money just a couple of hundred more in my budget, it might be a possibilty!)
Also looked at the Surly Long Haul Trucker. Looks good, has good reviews, well priced. But perhaps slightly on the heavy side, like the Thorn - bringing me back to the same issue as before haha!

Ach. I get so involved with the 'which bike' thing. In the end, I just enjoy riding... I guess I'm slightly more concerned at the thought of doing longer distance stuff without considering my options.


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## PpPete (18 Aug 2012)

The Spa Ti Audax looks good. Was in the reckoning for my wife's new audax machine but then we spotted that, at least in the smaller sizes, it had quite a long top tube. If anything it was slightly longer than the top tube on the tourer that she's been using up to now - on which she needs an absolutely minute stem.

Have to say I disagree with Frank on the issue of the triple. Don't think I've dropped the chain more than once this yeaar, and never on a long audax. I know what he means about the risk of cross-chaining at night, but for me the advantages outweigh the disadvantages by a long way. Frank is a much stronger rider than me though !


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## middleagecyclist (18 Aug 2012)

A Chiltern in red with a triple.


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## yello (18 Aug 2012)

Sorry if I've missed it but what's the other road bike you have - the Spesh? Have you thought of riding an audax on it just to see how it performs and/or what might be lacking?

I've seen all manner of bikes on an audax and, quite honestly, if you're thinking of a 200km audax as your max (or even 400 for that matter) then that's a diiferent story to 600, 1000 or 1200 *unsupported* rides where you'll be carrying extra stuff out of necessity. (LEL and PBP are somewhat different in that you have facilities provided so they are, arguably, 12 or 14 x 100km rides.)

I currently have a steel framed, triple, hub dynamo-ed, mudguarded and Brooks toting pukka audax bike BUT if I were in the market again then I'd be looking at one of the relaxed geometry carbon fibre (can't afford titanium) distance/comfort designed bikes. You might already have one.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

middleagecyclist said:


> A Chiltern in red with a triple.


Nice! Looks a strong and quick machine.

Anyone out there with experiences of Mercians, out of interest?


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## mcshroom (18 Aug 2012)

On the Pendle 600 this year (I was helping not riding) I saw everything from an Dawes Vantage Aluminium Tourer to a Defy Advanced Carbon road bike. It's really about a bike that YOU find comfortable.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

yello said:


> Sorry if I've missed it but what's the other road bike you have - the Spesh? Have you thought of riding an audax on it just to see how it performs and/or what might be lacking?


 
I have thought about this. In truth, I've done lots of long distance, medium load cycling with it. Not done any Audaxes, longest ride I've done is 155 miles.

I think the main thing I know I want (that this bike hasn't got) is a front dynamo hub. So maybe I'll just get a dedicated pair of wheels built (strong ones, with a dynamo) which I can swap in for audaxes, and out when I do my standard riding.

Though that will end up costing around the same as the Revolution Audax. And there is an N+1 factor here - of course!


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## yello (18 Aug 2012)

pkeenan said:


> I think the main thing I know I want (that this bike hasn't got) is a front dynamo hub.


 
You don't have to run a dynohub. There are very effective battery lights available for when you might need them.

I built a new front wheel precisely so I can take the dynohub out when I don't need it. (Not so much to save weight btw, but to reduce unnecessary wear on the hub)

Edit: oh, as to N+1 factor - go for it! We can all understand that one.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

yello said:


> You don't have to run a dynohub. There are very effective battery lights available for when you might need them.
> 
> I built a new front wheel precisely so I can take the dynohub out when I don't need it. (Not so much to save weight btw, but to reduce unnecessary wear on the hub)


 
Well of course I don't have to, though having run one on my Thorn for over a year now - it's something I would be ambivalent about going to LEL without. Especially as I'm a sucker for riding at night (I *love* it), and I know I'll certainly be doing that during LEL.

Nonetheless, I would be grateful for some recommendations for battery lights as I've not ruled it out completely.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

yello said:


> Edit: oh, as to N+1 factor - go for it! We can all understand that one.


 
heheh


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## yello (18 Aug 2012)

pkeenan said:


> Well of course I don't have to


 
Sorry, I didn't mean to come across abruptly, teaching grannie to suck eggs etc. Just me being a tad enthusiastic with my response 

I know little of battery lights these days (because I have a dynohub!) but know you can get decent lights with pretty good run times these days. I get were you're coming from about night riding, I love it too. I certainly agree about the convenience of a dynohub - and there are other benefits too; I use it to charge my GPS for instance.

There's not a great deal of night riding necessary for LEL in truth, depends how quick you are, (of course, if you want to, you can!) and it could pretty much be done in daylight hours.... just a thought. My thinking here is really to do with weight and not carting redundant stuff around.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

yello said:


> There's not a great deal of night riding necessary for LEL in truth, depends how quick you are, (of course, if you want to, you can!) and it could pretty much be done in daylight hours.... just a thought. My thinking here is really to do with weight and not carting redundant stuff around.


 
This is good information, thanks! I agree about not carting redundant stuff around. I'm bad at taking more than I need. I guess my thoughts about lighting are always "just incase...".

Will investigate battery lights 

PS - I'm greatful for the enthusiastic responses - this is what the thread is for, so I can gather opinions and such! So I apologise if I was rude, also!


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## Baggy (18 Aug 2012)

Battery lights:
I reckon these are hard to beat: Lumicycle 4Si although they are not exactly cheap. Excellent build quality, weatherproof, and made in the UK - the biggest available battery should give a run time of about 60 hours on the "commute" setting, which is fine for A roads, or 18 hours on the "low" setting, which I find fine on unlit lanes. Typically, their website is down at the moment.


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

Thanks @Baggy - good looking light, and a good write up in the link.
Tis on the pricey side, though the quality stuff usually is! *sigh*


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## mcshroom (18 Aug 2012)

I don't know about the long term durability of it, but I like my new Ixon IQ - the lower setting seems ok for a-roads and lasts a long time, with a nicely shaped 40lux headlight for the more complicated stuff.

I think they only rate the full power option for about 5 hrs, but as it's AA powered getting spares wouldn't be a problem.


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## frank9755 (18 Aug 2012)

What most people use for audax is the Hope Vision 1 which is about £70. Having two is ideal. You'd need to carry spare batteries on LEL. The other excellent but affordable option is the B&M Ixon IQ.

@PPete:
It may be that the combination of your riding style and setup means you never suffer from the problem, but there is no doubt that triples do unship more than doubles. Triples are simply more complex and require more compromises to cope with the greater variety of shifts. In particular, the small chainring is a long way from the front mech and shifting down to it is when most problems occur.
If you need convincing, have a look at the excellent thread on the CTC forum started by MickF. As Mick says, when you get to know a triple you learn exactly what kind of shift is likely to make the chain come off. Mick attached a video camera to his seat tube and filmed it - the amount of flex in the system is amazing!
For me it was generally when I wanted to go from descending in a high gear to climbing in a low one while keeping power on to carry me up the hill - not an uncommon scenario. However, if I backed off the power there would be no problem. It comes down to riding style. 

Regarding frames, it really doesn't make much difference what you have, as long as you can get a decent fit on it. A cheap, second hand aluminium frame bike that is set up properly for you will be fine (I have one that is) but you could spend thousands on something that would have you in pain before you got far on it! Money spent on a fitting could save you lots on the bike.


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## Noodley (18 Aug 2012)

frank9755 said:


> What most people use for audax is the Hope Vision 1 which is about £70. .


 
I think this falls into the category of "sweeping generalisation"


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## mcshroom (18 Aug 2012)

@ Frank - I can't remember the last time I shipped a chain on any of my three bikes (all with triples). That includes the tourer which has a 22t inner ring paired with a road dérailleur. It does take more to set them up initially, but one the limits are set the change seems safe enough. 

I wonder if the fact all my bikes are 7/8sp has an effect?


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## Noodley (18 Aug 2012)

I think the "slipped chain" is another myth, sorry I mean "sweeping generalisation"


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

Gearing is obviously down to preference. And ease of shifting is down to context and how well maintained the gears are, so surely it's hard to generalise this...?

RE Lights - Just looked up both the Hope Vision 1, and the IXON via the linky - these both look pretty good (thanks for the recommendations!) Working on standard battery sizes seems the way to go, methinks - so either of these would be pretty ideal.

I'm (slowly) warming to the possibility that I might not need to purchase a brand new dynamo. Yay!


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## frank9755 (18 Aug 2012)

Noodley said:


> I think this falls into the category of "sweeping generalisation"


 
Oh dear!
Reaches for the ignore list...


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## frank9755 (18 Aug 2012)

mcshroom said:


> @ Frank - I can't remember the last time I shipped a chain on any of my three bikes (all with triples). That includes the tourer which has a 22t inner ring paired with a road dérailleur. It does take more to set them up initially, but one the limits are set the change seems safe enough.
> 
> I wonder if the fact all mu bikes are 7/8sp has an effect?


 
I think it would.

The chain gets dropped off the middle ring by a mech that is quite a long way above it and it sometimes misses. 10 speed chain, being lighter and narrower than 7/8 might be more likely to bounce off. I've got a 7-speed with a triple and don't recall ever having the chain come off on a downshift (although I don't use it on harder rides). It doesn't happen that often with my 9-speed but it was a problem when I had it on the 10-speed. Mick has either 10 or 11 (Campag).


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## Scoosh (18 Aug 2012)

I reckon the most important thing in an Audax-type bike is the bike fitting.

I would really recommend getting a proper bike fitting, from someone like Paul Hewitt. He knows his stuff and has loads of experience in fitting people onto their bikes for whatever type of riding they want to do.

I had a fitting from him, got the measurements, then used them to get the bike I wanted (though perhaps not the bike I should have had ). With hindsight, I should have bought from him and had a fitting before I took the bike away.

I would say that the most important thing for an Audax bike is the fitting. If you are going to cycle long distances, you can only do it with any pleasure if you are comfortable (been there, done that ! ).

IMHO, it is well worth the cost of getting a proper, experienced fitting, then buying a bike from the fitter, as that will virtually guarantee a 'proper' position. You may well be surprised at the suggestions - but come to appreciate them in the long run (or cycle ).

Personally, I find a compact chain-ring (50/34) with a 11-32 10-speed cassette to be probably more than I need, which is a good thing. (I asked an experienced audaxer what gears I should have and his response was: '1 more than you need' !  )

HTH


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## Noodley (18 Aug 2012)

...and a proper saddle, scoosh


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## middleagecyclist (18 Aug 2012)

Scoosh said:


> I reckon the most important thing in an Audax-type bike is the bike fitting. I would really recommend getting a proper bike fitting, from someone like Paul Hewitt. He knows his stuff...


Part of the reason i am getting a Hewitt Cheviot. It's going to be quite trad' - hub dynamo, triple, Brooks, Carradice - but most of all a tailor made fit. Nice!


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

middleagecyclist said:


> Part of the reason i am getting a Hewitt Cheviot. It's going to be quite trad' - hub dynamo, triple, Brooks, Carradice - but most of all a tailor made fit. Nice!


I thought you were getting the Hewitt Chiltern?


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## middleagecyclist (18 Aug 2012)

pkeenan said:


> I thought you were getting the Hewitt Chiltern?


Yep. That's right. Celebrating SWMBO's birthday. Hic!


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## pkeenan (18 Aug 2012)

middleagecyclist said:


> Yep. That's right. Celebrating SWMBO's birthday. Hic!


Good stuff!!


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## Ian H (19 Aug 2012)

My 'audax-specific' bike is a custom built Ti equipped with motley bits of Campag, Shimano, 3ttt, etc. I've ridden SRs and PBP on it.
My 'other' bike is a 40yr old Holdsworth with replacement forks and a fixed gear. I've ridden SRs and PBP on it.

The positioning on both is pretty similar.


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## PpPete (19 Aug 2012)

frank9755 said:


> I think it would.
> 
> The chain gets dropped off the middle ring by a mech that is quite a long way above it and it sometimes misses. 10 speed chain, being lighter and narrower than 7/8 might be more likely to bounce off. I've got a 7-speed with a triple and don't recall ever having the chain come off on a downshift (although I don't use it on harder rides). It doesn't happen that often with my 9-speed but it was a problem when I had it on the 10-speed. Mick has either 10 or 11 (Campag).


Don't know why but i used to unship chain more often on the 9 speed. The newer 10 speed its very rare indeed.

Sent from my HTC Wildfire S A510e using Tapatalk 2


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

Ian H said:


> My 'audax-specific' bike is a custom built Ti equipped with motley bits of Campag, Shimano, 3ttt, etc. I've ridden SRs and PBP on it.
> My 'other' bike is a 40yr old Holdsworth with replacement forks and a fixed gear. I've ridden SRs and PBP on it.
> 
> The positioning on both is pretty similar.


Nice to hear both are up to the needs of your cycling! Impressive stuff, riding SRs and PBP on a fixed gear...


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## zigzag (19 Aug 2012)

you may get some ideas from these photos; the bikes are set up for longest audax in europe - 1001miglia italia (~1000 miles)


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

Some serious looking set-ups there... Thanks for the link!
As many have said, there's a bit of everything!


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## PpPete (19 Aug 2012)

Just briefly going back to the title of this thread.....Not only are many kinds of bike suitable for audax... but a bike "specific" to only audax doesnt really exist, whereas a bike that's "ideal" for audax (in the mind of the owner) will likely also be pretty damn good as:
Lightweight tourer
Commuter
Winter training bike
Club runs (except the very quickest)
Sportives

In fact anything slower than a TT or Category race
and less "loaded" than touring with full camping kit


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

PpPete said:


> Just briefly going back to the title of this thread.....Not only are many kinds of bike suitable for audax... but a bike "specific" to only audax doesnt really exist, whereas a bike that's "ideal" for audax (in the mind of the owner) will likely also be pretty damn good as:
> Lightweight tourer
> Commuter
> Winter training bike
> ...


Good point! I would have to say I agree with that.
Bad use of the word specific, though I feel so far the thread has addressed what I was after nonetheless!

And, without wanting to sound stupid... @PpPete - what do the crossed out words (Poor Student, Dean, National, Bryan Chapman after your SR breakdown mean?


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## mcshroom (19 Aug 2012)

They are the rides that he did the distances on. Each one is a different audax ride.

http://www.aukweb.net/events/


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## Scoosh (19 Aug 2012)

I think you'll find they are the names of the audax events he has ridden to complete his SR Series. Audax UK website give the names. http://www.aukweb.net/events/ [sorry - some gremlin is preventing me from getting providing a single-click link]
EDIT: beaten by mcshroom !


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## PpPete (19 Aug 2012)

Quite right mcshroom & Scoosh
Pleased with myself I am (as 300 was my longest until this season)...., but it's time I got rid of that line now. 
RRTY is still ongoing .. and the LEL build up is really the target now.


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

mcshroom + scoosh - thanks! I already knew the rides were the events making up his SR. But I didn't realise each ride was named - that's pretty cool!


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

PpPete said:


> Quite right mcshroom & Scoosh
> Pleased with myself I am (as 300 was my longest until this season)...., but it's time I got rid of that line now.
> RRTY is still ongoing .. and the LEL build up is really the target now.


Well, congratulations on your Super Randonneur! 
Lots of hard work, I can only imagine... I'm hoping to do work toward a SR probably next season.


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## yello (19 Aug 2012)

PpPete said:


> In fact anything slower than a TT or Category race
> and less "loaded" than touring with full camping kit


 
I'm going to go all hip and trendy and say 'my god, I'm loving that definition'. Because I reckon it is just about perfect.

I did my first audax (the Chilly Hilterns 100, god rest its soul) on my mtb. Ok, I locked the suspension forks out but I was thankful for the gearing.


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## PpPete (19 Aug 2012)

I suppose I should say my better half completed the SR on a 531 framed Dawes Galaxy tourer  A bike which would certainly stand full load touring...


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

Having read people's opinions, I think I've come to the decision to just stick to the Allez.
If I do do any spending, I'll probably just get a new wheelset for the purpose.

I'm quite bad for convincing myself that I _need_ a new bike, when in actual fact what I have will do the job fine!


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## Ian H (19 Aug 2012)

pkeenan said:


> Nice to hear both are up to the needs of your cycling! Impressive stuff, riding SRs and PBP on a fixed gear...


I think I was trying to say something like "It's not about the bike", as some American said, whose name I've forgotten.


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## pkeenan (19 Aug 2012)

Ian H said:


> I think I was trying to say something like "It's not about the bike", as some American said, whose name I've forgotten.


I'm usually quite perceptive in my reading, but I missed that - sorry! 
As my previous post probably indicates, I've come to a similar conclusion.


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## User16625 (22 Aug 2012)

Noodley said:


> My preference:
> The 'geomerty' of the bike ( I found a road bike was okay upto and including 300k rides, but anything beyoand that and I preferred 'audax/touring geometry - I do not know the technical bits) needs to be comfortable for long rides
> Triple chain ring (50-39-30)
> Large cassette (13-29 or likewise)
> ...


 
I have a carbon fibre road bike with 53/39 front and 11/25 rear. 105 everything and 700/23 tyres. So would this make audaxing really unpractical?


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## zigzag (22 Aug 2012)

RideLikeTheStig said:


> I have a carbon fibre road bike with 53/39 front and 11/25 rear. 105 everything and 700/23 tyres. So would this make audaxing really unpractical?


 
if you enter audax with steep hills (wessex, devon, cornwall, wales etc) i'm sure you'll decide to get lower gears after that. otherwise, the bike is fine...


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## mcshroom (22 Aug 2012)

One esteemed rider rides over 80" fixed on most of his rides (I think he does 'flat' audaxes with a gear over 90")


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## StuAff (22 Aug 2012)

mcshroom said:


> One esteemed rider rides over 80" fixed on most of his rides (I think he does 'flat' audaxes with a gear over 90")


One of my fellow riders on the last one I did (with 8k feet of climbing over the 200km) was on fixed. And the fastest, I think.


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## Noodley (22 Aug 2012)

RideLikeTheStig said:


> I have a carbon fibre road bike with 53/39 front and 11/25 rear. 105 everything and 700/23 tyres. So would this make audaxing really unpractical?


 
Not at all, tis what I ride most of the time now. The list I gave was what my preference would be. It's not a "right" or "wrong" list, just what I would prefer.


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## Shut Up Legs (24 Aug 2012)

Just skimmed through this thread, so hope I don't duplicate anyone's post! 

I've been using a Vivente World Randonneur tourer for 3.75 years now, and have almost done 50,000km on it. It did need some tweaking, as they all do: handlebar angle & height, seat position, etc., but I find it comfortable enough. I can't claim to be a real Audax-style cyclist, though, as my longest ride is still only 250km, with no multi-day Audax rides.

I use a 50-39-30 triple on the front and an 11-34 cluster on the rear, so enough gears for all occasions. My tyres are Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700x28C always pumped up to about 100psi. I use SPD pedals, as SPD-style cleats are easier to walk on (although I don't try to walk long distances in them).

I also use a Son-20R dynamo hub with Schmidt Edeluxe front and (I forget the brand) rear light, backed up with some USB-rechargeable lights. My brakes are cantilever rim brakes, which is sometimes a nuisance, as the continual hill-climbing I do (roughly 5.5 to 6km vertical / week) wears out the brake pads (and wheel rims) way too fast. My previous rims (just replaced a week ago) only lasted 6 months.

Not trying to sell anyone on the above combination, by the way, just offering one of the options.


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