# Good old forks vs. cheap new forks



## girv73 (10 Apr 2009)

I've just recently got my old MTB out of storage - a 1995 GT Zaskar LE - and now I'm fixing it up to get back on the trails. 

The frame was originally designed for cantilever brakes but I've bodged V-brakes on to it. Brake performance isn't great as the cable routing is poor and partially supported by cable ties, thanks to not having cable bosses in the right places. So I'm considering fitting disc brakes.

I have Pace RC36 forks fitted which seem to be in working order but don't have disc brake mounts. I also have a set of disc-equipped Suntour XC 100 LO forks that I took off a Commencal MTB that I use for commuting.

So the question is: would the cheap but modern Suntours be comparable in performance to the expensive but old RC36's ? I've no budget for a new set of modern forks, so those are my choices. Assuming, amongst other things, that the Suntours are suitable (heaset, geometry) anyway.

Alternatively, are there "clamp on" caliper mounts for the front, like the A2Z adapters you can get for the rear? I haven't seen any myself.







(more photos)

Words: gt zaskar le 1995 - it’s coming home


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## ChrisCrc (10 Apr 2009)

Hi
I have an old set of Rockshock Forks in good condition 1"/8 stem (Threadless) if you want them, they have cantilever mounts and will take V brakes or Magura Hydraulic Rim brakes as well. ( no cost just postage). If you send me your email i can send you some pics, thats if you are interested

regards

Chris


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## andym (19 Apr 2009)

The fact that you can't put disc brakes on is a limitation, but I've just stripped down and refurbished some old Marzocchis and they seem to work as well as my Fox Talas - and are much cheaper to run.


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## Steve Austin (19 Apr 2009)

Nothing in existence that could enable you to run a disc on the front that i know of without buying a new fork, but then again a well setup V brake will give you good enough braking.

I reckon the newer SuntouR fork will work better than the Pace, BUT the Pace will be lighter. If its not I'll be munching through my E2. It will be the correct Geometry as they haven't changed that much, The Zaskar was built for an 80mm fork, but it'll be fine to at least 100mm. headset is the same size 1 1/8th.

btw if the rear brake is not as good as you would like, try running it with a full length outer. You'll have to ziptie it to the mounts, or get some little runners, but i find it gives better braking than some old frames with awkward cable routing.


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## Steve Austin (19 Apr 2009)

I've had loads of bikes but never a Zaskar. Always wanted a Zaskar.... might have to go look at the Carbon one again


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## girv73 (21 Apr 2009)

I'm waiting for delivery of some (very) cheap old Rockshox forks that have the correct geometry, headset (I think) and *disc mounts*, so we will see. In the meantime I'll set up the V-Brakes as best I can.

There was just something sexy about the Zaskar frame when it came out, and I have to say I'd probably get one of the new ones if I was looking for a new hardtail MTB today.


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## Bodger (4 May 2009)

If that pace fork is one that doesn't have legs that taper at the bottom then you used to be able to get clamps to allow fitting a disc caliper. Some people didn't like the idea of putting them on a carbon fork, others didn't mind. I've had mine on for around 9 years with no probs. You might be able to find some if you have a mooch on the usual places.


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## aserota (4 May 2009)

I have a set of Pace R31 Carbon forks, which have disc mounts and additional v-brake mounts, which may be of interest. They are in excellent working and good cosmetic condition.

Drop me a PM if youre interested


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## girv73 (4 May 2009)

@Bodger I think mine do taper at the bottom, but I've never seen clamp-on disc mounts in any case. Do you have any more information about them?

@aserota are those suspension forks? I guess they would have similar geometry and travel to the RC36's ?


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## Black Sheep (6 May 2009)

random question, but are they V brake levers or did you just use the existing levers?

if the latter then that is why your having problems - V brake levers have a different pull ratio compared to cantilever brake levers

fitting v brake levers should help

fitting cable routing, you should be ok following the existing route from the cantilevers and just having the bits near the calipers doing their own thing

looking at the pics, your front cable outer looks a little short causing a tighter curve and thus more friction on the cable which will take more effort to pull and hinder the brake springing back when you let go of the lever

don't know if any of that helps.


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## girv73 (6 May 2009)

They're v-brake levers - the bike was built from scratch with v-brakes and never had any other levers on it.

Thanks for the cable routing tips. As it happens I just ordered new cables today, along with all the other bits I need to get this one back on the road ... or hills ... you know what I mean


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## Black Sheep (6 May 2009)

when fitting the new cables give them a little extra on the curves, you can always shorten them later!

nothing wrong with fully encased cabling either, tis my preference


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## girv73 (6 May 2009)

For a fully encased run, do you just clip the outers to the frame somehow?


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## Black Sheep (7 May 2009)

girv73 said:


> For a fully encased run, do you just clip the outers to the frame somehow?



yup, zip ties just round the frame!

it is possible to drill out the narrow bit of cable guide that holds the outer and then feed it through that.
but don't do it to that zaskar!!!


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## girv73 (7 May 2009)

Zipties ... or jubilee clips (lined to avoid scratching of the frame) 

Don't worry, no drills will be anywhere near the frame!


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## Black Sheep (7 May 2009)

i'd go with zip ties, clip them off as short as possible to stop you scratching yourself on them (have the ends inside the triangle if you get me)


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