# Converting MTB to Full-On Expedition Tourer



## hubbike (13 May 2008)

Want to get an old 1990's steel framed no-suspension MTB. Stip it down, and then build it up with the best quality components, racks and a pair of good quality handbuilt wheels. I am hoping to end up with a bomb-proof tourer suitable for spending a year-or-so touring south america. 

If anyone can suggest a wheel builder, a good source of old MTB's (which to look for.) 
trek cannondale specialized rockhoppers
dawes giant marin


are all supposed to be pretty reputable, so I am looking out for something. Also seen a few Claud Butler Silver Ridge are they any good? I'm trawling ebay but is there anywhere else good to look?

Please offer advice and tips on any aspect of my plan, but especially what old bike would be good and what I should do to it once I have it.


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## Tim Bennet. (13 May 2008)

Don't dismiss steel mountainbikes with suspension forks (100mm or less). These can be converted to rigid forks for well under 100 pounds. I got a pair of Surley(?) steel rigid forks for my Marin Bear Valley which have proved to be perfect.

There are quite a few decent wheel builders. My only personal recommendation would be Paul Hewitt in Leyland. We have been using his wheels on everything from heavy touring, to lightweight racing (including Paris Roubaix) plus all sorts of mtb wheels (including exotic Tune hub based race wheels), none of which have ever been less than 100 percent reliable.


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## vernon (13 May 2008)

hubbike said:


> Want to get an old 1990's steel framed no-suspension MTB. Stip it down, and then build it up with the best quality components, racks and a pair of good quality handbuilt wheels. I am hoping to end up with a bomb-proof tourer suitable for spending a year-or-so touring south america.
> 
> If anyone can suggest a wheel builder, a good source of old MTB's (which to look for.)
> trek cannondale specialized rockhoppers
> ...




Are you sure that you really want to use a frame that's up to 18 years old for the project? How can you be sure that there's not significant internal corrosion?

Do make sure that there are braze ons to accommodate a rack on the frame and that there's braze ons on the forks for low loaders.

For handbuilt wheels, Pete Matthews is a self proclaimed 'best wheel builder' but I've not heard anyone else praise his wheels. On the otherhand I've heard nothing but prraise from satisfied customers about the wheels built by Paul Hewitt.

A brand that you've not mentioned is Orange. Never were cheap but they appear to be bombproof. A friend of mine has converted his Orange MTB into an expedition tourer and it appears to be very robust. It's seen action in Iceland some of the nordic countries and performed well by all accounts.


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## campagman (13 May 2008)

I use an old Raleigh MTB that a bloke at work gave me. I have replaced everything but the frame and H/bar stem and am very pleased with it. It is made from 531 plain gauge tubing too. It does not have a front low rider boss on the forks, you will struggle to find these on the standard factory fitted forks.


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## DaveyDave (13 May 2008)

I 'converted' my 10 year old Kona Lava Dome by adding Halfords pannier racks and panniers for my touring trips to Scotland and Ireland. 
Here's a piccy of the bike on the Isle of Mull:






Have recently had to replace the cartridge and the headset bearings but it still seems to tick over OK. However, I do wonder how much better a decent touring bike (Dawes or similar) would be in terms of weight and rolling resistance. Never had any problems with the wheels though.

Dave


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## Lee Matthews (23 Apr 2012)

I can confirm that the custom handbuilt wheels I bought from Petematthews.com are truly wonderful and would reccommend ths website to anybody wishig to buy a new set of wheels or upgrading.I do think that Pete Matthews is the worlds best wheel builder.


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## subaqua (23 Apr 2012)

Lee Matthews said:


> I can confirm that the custom handbuilt wheels I bought from Petematthews.com are truly wonderful and would reccommend ths website to anybody wishig to buy a new set of wheels or upgrading.I do think that Pete Matthews is the worlds best wheel builder.


 
well of course you would.


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## Lee Matthews (23 Apr 2012)




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## Nigeyy (24 Apr 2012)

Well look, I really don't mean to rain on your parade, but.... my advice is don't do it, _unless_ you really want to. Certainly don't do it based on cost!

The cost of components, the tools required, time taken (admittedly if it's a hobby that doesn't count) means that usually you'll end up spending about as much money as buying the bike you really want new. If you have the tools, the know how, a place to build, and some components already as well as a super cheap frame, then yes, it's cost effective.

Don't ask how I know this -let's just say I have a converted mtb as a tourer -it's an old steel Specialized Hardrock, and that my wife didn't know about the budget.


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## willem (24 Apr 2012)

Converting an old steel mtb is an excellent route to get a budget tourer. However, using an old frame with top notch modern components for a full blown expedition tourer, is not such a good plan. It will be at least as expensive as a completely new bike, and not as good. I sugggest you look at a Thorn Sherpa or Raven instead.
Willem


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## Ticktockmy (24 Apr 2012)

I made one up for dual use, whilst I currently have Rock shox suspension on at the moment, Surly sell The Instigator rigid fork which replaces 100mm travel suspension forks which I am currently thinking of purchasing.
Here is the spec I ended up with.
I made my Mountain bike up to so suit my own requirements for pottering around on the trails and byways and also for touring:
Charge Duster 2010 frame, (has bigger diamenter tubes than the Duster 2011 frame)
RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air 100mm Suspension Fork
Hope Tech X2 Disc Brake front and rear.
Truvativ Noir XC 3.3 Team Triple Chainset.( got it for £90 so could not miss such a good bargain)
Shimano XT M770 Derailleur and levers front and rear..
Race Face Evolve MTB Handlebar
Charge Spoon saddle
Mavic Crossride XC717 front wheeL
Halo SAS Pro 26 Inch Rear Mtb Wheel (bloody heavy wheel but great for when I am touring off road fully laden)
Old man mountain Sherpa racks on the front and rear.
Current tires are Schwalbe Marathon XR's for touring otherwise when not set up for touring: I use Panaracer Fire XC Pro's


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## psmiffy (24 Apr 2012)

vernon said:


> Are you sure that you really want to use a frame that's up to 18 years old for the project? How can you be sure that there's not significant internal corrosion?


 
Ditto - I started off using a 1990s Steel Marin for touring -bought brand new - was a good bike - bit flexible under load - but did the job- 1999 came off the bike bus after a tour in France and was putting the bike on my car rack when I noticed that both chain stays had rusted through to the point of there being holes - chain side one was cracked over 50% of the diameter - was not apparent when I had given the bike a thorough pre-tour service.


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## Iainj837 (24 Apr 2012)

I wouldn't even consider converting a MTB to a touring bike imho
I have a Dawes Kare-Kum 2009 model.
Which is ready to go, the racks are already there in my case front and rear racks


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## Iainj837 (24 Apr 2012)

Nigeyy said:


> Well look, I really don't mean to rain on your parade, but.... my advice is don't do it, _unless_ you really want to. Certainly don't do it based on cost!
> 
> The cost of components, the tools required, time taken (admittedly if it's a hobby that doesn't count) means that usually you'll end up spending about as much money as buying the bike you really want new. If you have the tools, the know how, a place to build, and some components already as well as a super cheap frame, then yes, it's cost effective.
> 
> ...


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## Crackle (24 Apr 2012)

A 4 year old thread resurrection, not bad.

You don't need to do much to it though do you. If you have a rigid mtn bike, it's a change of tyres and a change of bars, plus some racks & mudguards. It can be quite a cheap way to get a tourer.

Last year on Arran, I looked across at a bike next to mine, I was on my mtn bike and with a shock realized it was the same bike fitted with drops and guards and racks and things and fully laden as a tourer.


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## Nigeyy (24 Apr 2012)

Youch! That initial post was old.... just didn't notice it when I replied. I bet he's past building one by now....


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## calibanzwei (24 Apr 2012)

Lee Matthews said:


> I can confirm that the custom handbuilt wheels I bought from Petematthews.com are truly wonderful and would reccommend ths website to anybody wishig to buy a new set of wheels or upgrading.I do think that Pete Matthews is the worlds best wheel builder.


 
4 year necro-post... Lee Matthews... Pete Matthews... I smell a rat!


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## fossyant (25 Apr 2012)

calibanzwei said:


> 4 year necro-post... Lee Matthews... Pete Matthews... I smell a rat!


 
There is a Link - Lee has been told to behave by the Mods.


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## doog (25 Apr 2012)

Appreciate the thread is old but its a subject that always comes up.I have an old Raleigh mtb frame (4130 Chromoly) that's in good nick. When I added up the price of parts to convert it to a tourer (doing most of it myself) it just wasn't financially viable, a decent set of wheels being the main expense.


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## hubbike (25 Apr 2012)

Well even if you're all 4 years late, thanks for the advice.

In fact I did build up a mtb, cost me a few hundred quid and was fantastic for touring scottish hill tracks and islands etc... see here
I was lucky enough to get quite a few bits cheap at a local bike recylcing centre, where I was also able to rent a work stand.

After a year or so I sold it and bought a Roberts Roughstuff. I cycled the length of south america on the roughstuff without a hitch. I sometimes wonder what my touring life would have been like on that black trek...who knows?!


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## Drago (4 Oct 2018)

Crackle said:


> A 4 year old thread resurrection, not bad.
> 
> You don't need to do much to it though do you. If you have a rigid mtn bike, it's a change of tyres and a change of bars, plus some racks & mudguards. It can be quite a cheap way to get a tourer.
> 
> Last year on Arran, I looked across at a bike next to mine, I was on my mtn bike and with a shock realized it was the same bike fitted with drops and guards and racks and things and fully laden as a tourer.



How about a 6.5 year thread resurrection?

I've just built something very similar for touring and all surface, all weather use. Saracens Tuffrtrax frame from 1996, Miche wheels with dynohub, rear Tortec carrier, front carrier, guards, lights, all the trimmings. Aside from the freshly powdercoated frame and new XLC headset it was assembled entirely from parts from my Forbidden Bike Box of Mystery (tm), parts from other bikes that have been cast aside as upgraded parts have been fitted.

Powdercoating, tyres, cables, new chain etc gave me change from a hundred sovs.


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## SkipdiverJohn (6 Oct 2018)

Drago said:


> I've just built something very similar for touring and all surface, all weather use. Saracens Tuffrtrax frame from 1996, Miche wheels with dynohub, rear Tortec carrier, front carrier, guards, lights, all the trimmings. Aside from the freshly powdercoated frame and new XLC headset it was assembled entirely from parts from my Forbidden Bike Box of Mystery (tm), parts from other bikes that have been cast aside as upgraded parts have been fitted.
> 
> Powdercoating, tyres, cables, new chain etc gave me change from a hundred sovs.



Pictures are needed! That's how bikes should be optimised for the rider's intended use. No need to spend silly money. Start out with a frame of sensible geometry and build features and go from there. Old Saracens from the 1990's look like pretty decent bikes. I saw one go for only £22 recently and it was in really tidy condition, not a thrashed wreck. No-one seems to want 26" steel framed rigids these days.


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## Blue Hills (6 Oct 2018)

Interesting skipdiver.

Why do you think this is?

Am not a twitterbod but apparently there is a hashtag

#26aintdead


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## SkipdiverJohn (6 Oct 2018)

Blue Hills said:


> Why do you think this is?



Marketing hype and fashion mainly. If you look at any manufacturer's or retailers MTB offering, the vast majority of them today will be hardtails or full-sus, and the wheels will usually be 27.5" or 29". Try to go out today and buy a new high quality 26" rigid with a butted lightweight steel frame.....
The bulk of the 26" still being made are at the BSO/Cheap end of the market and even then, the majority of them have suspension.
Buyers are now being conditioned by all the marketing spend to believe that if it doesn't have oversized wheels and suspension, then it isn't a proper MTB. This means they will buy secondhand junk BSO's with suspension, and yet turn their noses up at a 90's rigid with a quality Reynolds or Tange cro-moly frame! How else can you explain me acquiring a 1991-vintage Raleigh with 501 frame and quality component spec for the sum total of fifteen quid? I've also got a nice old lugged Dawes MTB (or should it be ATB?) currently in bits, made of Reynolds 500 that I paid eight quid for, again quality frame and mechanicals - but well used with a partially seized BB now sorted. Stripped, cleaned and regreased headset & BB, zero parts cost - job done.


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## Crackle (6 Oct 2018)

Some of us have still got 90s mtn bikes which we use as tourers. Retired from mtn biking because today's mtn bikes do the job far better.


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## Heltor Chasca (6 Oct 2018)

My first tourer was an old 90s Mongoose MTB with rigid fork. Too big really but it was great for the £20 I bought it for.

Now I have a Surly DT. I know which I prefer even though it cost much more.


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## Salar (6 Oct 2018)

Well,

If I was doing it on the "cheap" I'd use an early mtb frame with braze ons.

I have and have owned quite a few bikes from the 70's,80's and 90's and I've always found the frames to be relatively corrosion free internally.


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## Drago (6 Oct 2018)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Pictures are needed! That's how bikes should be optimised for the rider's intended use. No need to spend silly money. Start out with a frame of sensible geometry and build features and go from there. Old Saracens from the 1990's look like pretty decent bikes. I saw one go for only £22 recently and it was in really tidy condition, not a thrashed wreck. No-one seems to want 26" steel framed rigids these days.





Pictures shall be forthcoming. I'm planning to use it on Monday for a coaching session, and maybe blag an OS Benchmark on the way around, so I'll snap a pic then.


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## albal (9 Oct 2018)

My old ATB Raleigh 1989, refurbished in 2010. Since then I've ridden 18000 miles on it. Absolutely no hesitation in taking it on long tours. Heavy. Reliable. Wheels were Rigida andra 30.


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## Drago (9 Oct 2018)

As promised...


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## SkipdiverJohn (9 Oct 2018)

I do like that, looks like it was built that way rather than just thrown together as an afterthought if you see what I mean. Is that a Reynolds tubing sticker I can see?? Seems odd that it's welded if so, rather than brazed. My Reynolds frames are all lugged.


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## Crackle (9 Oct 2018)

Drago said:


> As promised...
> 
> View attachment 433325


What's that front rack?


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## Drago (9 Oct 2018)

I couldnt say. Twas from my Box O' S***e, though I don't think it was anything too flash or expensive. The rear box is on a Tortec rack. The box is on fittings that detach with a 1/4 turn anti clockwise so I can use panniers if preferred, although the box is very convenient for casual bimbling. Lumotec lights front and rear. Bars and stem were from my Giant Trance X. Bottle cages are Blackburn jobs, cheap but sturdy. Chainset of an olde Carrara. Wheels off my old Marin, but weren't original to that bike. SKS guards. Charge Bucket and Spud 520s from the box. Shimano canti's up front, Suntour self energising canti's up the arse end which work brilliantly (don't know why they didn't catch on), all from the box. Sturmey Archer brake levers from the box - huge things, but great for grabbing a firm handful. Deore thumb shifters from the box, NOS, would be been worth a few quid if I'd ebayed them!

The Reynolds sticker is from the box, acquired for a Raleigh MTB resto years ago that I never got round to - it's actually double butted 4130. I shouldn't really have stuck it on, but what the Hell - 4130 decals are getting bloody expensive!

400mm seat post was purchased to spread the load and reduce the leverage at the seat tube/cross bar junction. I'm a heavy chap, and don't want to crack the frame. It was a no name unbranded alloy job, chosen in black to match the powder coat.

It's not light, in large part down to the heavy wheels, but all the racks and guards don't help. It is all day comfortable, and handles roads with as much aplomb as it does trails. I'm still in the honeymoon period with it, but it's already working its way into my affections.

Most of the bits are from bikes I've upgraded over the years, and chucked the original parts in the box. Other parts are from bikes I've broken. In all the build cost me in the region of a hundred quid, plus 30 years of parts hoarding


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## HobbesOnTour (16 Oct 2018)

Drago said:


> As promised...
> 
> View attachment 433325



That's a fine looking bike! Well done!

I'm a fan of converting an old MTB to a tourer - I've done it myself.

For me, the main advantage was that it forced me to develop mechanical skills and to understand how a bike worked - a handy set of skills to have when on tour. From someone who struggled to replace a tube, I can now disassemble the whole bike and put it back together - and it works!! 

Cost-wise, it can work out as expensive or cheap as you like. But you select your own components according to your needs, in comparison to taking whatever is on an off-the-shelf bike. And of course, it can be done incrementally to match a budget.
And, since I can now do most of the maintenance myself, there's a long term cost saving too.


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## Vantage (18 Oct 2018)

Very nicely done rig there Drago 

@SkipdiverJohn Renolds make the tubesets but it's the frame maker that decides how they are joined. My 725 frame is TIG welded.

@Drago if memory serves, there were fears about SE brakes being so powerful that the self energising action could throw a rider over the bars and so their use as front brakes was discontinued.


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## fossyant (18 Oct 2018)

Crackle said:


> Some of us have still got 90s mtn bikes which we use as tourers. Retired from mtn biking because today's mtn bikes do the job far better.



Some of us still use our 90's MTB's, despite my new one being much better over the boulders. The old bikes are good at general XC and for getting filthy more often, and not getting the rather expensive suspension covered in filth every ride.

My Diamond Back has front and rear pannier and guard mounts, so they would certainly make good 'world tourers'.


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## Drago (18 Oct 2018)

@Vantage Oh aye matey, they're very powerful indeed.., a very neat bit of design That said the regular ones one the front are happy to haul up 19 stone of rider, clothes and might snacking material.


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