# Outer Hebrides



## samid (14 Jan 2009)

Hi there,

I am planning to tour in North-West Scotland in May-June, and would like to include Outer Hebrides into my tour. My current idea is to take a ferry from Ullapool to Stornoway, go up to Butt of Lewis, and then go down to Isle of Harris. From there, I am not sure: either take a ferry to Isle of Skye, or go to North Uist and maybe even further down to Barra. But, I would like to limit that part of my tour to not more than a week, so maybe going all the way down to Barra would be a bit too much. Anyway, that's my current plan but nothing set in stone yet, and any advice re what specific places to visit, the general route etc. would be greatly appreciated. (FWIW, I'm planning to camp.)

One specific question is whether it is possible to ride on a road/touring bike (not MTB) from Stornoway to Butt of Lewis along the East coast?

Thanks.


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## bonj2 (14 Jan 2009)

would have thought you'd be spnding more time on ferries than biking.


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## samid (14 Jan 2009)

Meaning that going to those islands is a stupid idea, or what?


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## Alves (14 Jan 2009)

samid said:


> Hi there,
> 
> 
> One specific question is whether it is possible to ride on a road/touring bike (not MTB) from Stornoway to Butt of Lewis along the East coast?
> ...


This is possible but half way! Only as far as Tolsta and then the Northern portion from Tolsta to the Butt () is a walking track and passable with a reasonable MTB but not a loaded tourer for most of the way. Having said that you could walk the non-cycleable portions (5 or 6 miles of the 10 miles in total) and the views to the East are spectacular so it is possible if you were keen.


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## samid (14 Jan 2009)

Thanks Alves.


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## Kirstie (14 Jan 2009)

I did the outer hebrides in a week in September. The itinerary was:

Saturday: travel to Oban, stay in Oban.
Sunday: ferry from Oban - Lochboisdale, South Uist
Monday: Ride from Lochboisdale to Lochmaddy, North Uist
Tuesday: Ride from Lochmaddy - Berneray, ferry to Leverburgh south harris, ride from Leverburgh - Tarbert, North Harris
Wednesday: ride from Tarbert - Garrenin, Lewis
Thursday: ride from Garrenin, Lewis - Stornoway, then get ferry to Ullapool, then bike bus to Inverness.
Friday: Go somewhere else.


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## Kirstie (14 Jan 2009)

two more things:
Avoid going anywhere on the hebs on a sunday - EVERYTHING is shut.
Check with calmac *on the day* for ferry times, particularly between berneray and leverburgh. Sometimes they change the times if the tides are different, which is a pain in the arse if it goes an hour before the timetable says it's going to go.

one more thing (edit): 
try to stay in the gatliff hostels, they are amazing, rustic places. google them.


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## ASC1951 (14 Jan 2009)

Kirstie said:


> I did the outer hebrides in a week in September.


I did the same a few years ago, but instead of crossing back to Ullapool I got the ferry from Tarbert to Uig on Skye, then from Arisaig? on Skye to Mallaig on the mainland and pedalled steadily back to Oban. Mallaig to Oban was a long day with camping kit.

The whole lot including Skye is perfectly feasible in a week but you won't have time for many incidentals. I went to look at the stones at Callanish and right across Lewis to Great Bernera? but not much else. It's just a matter of how much time you want to spend on the bike, because you will have 22 hours of daylight.

I do remember - this was Spring Bank - being surprised that the road round the flanks of Clisham on Lewis had melting tarmac. I hadn't appreciated that the Hebrides got so hot.


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## Kirstie (14 Jan 2009)

I didn't do the Skye leg because riding across Skye is crap - A roads, basically. Didn't you find that?


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## ASC1951 (14 Jan 2009)

Yes, I did find that. But I had a friend I wanted to see who ran a canoeing school in Uig and I knew the then landlord at the pub in Portree. The roads didn't seem too busy, in fairness, but I don't mind bits of A road if I don't think I'm going to be slaughtered i.e. not the A65.

BTW, samid, I assume that being from Toronto you won't be phazed by midges. Us Sassenach poofs find that the Western Scottish midge is in a class of its own.


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## samid (14 Jan 2009)

Kirstie, ASC1951 - many thanks for all the info. Yes, I have heard about the famous Scottish midges


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## ufkacbln (14 Jan 2009)

Two books that are "partly appropriate"

Away with the Ferries
Full Cycle

Both by Stuart Craig who is a Glasgow cyclist with a love for the Scottish Islands and Feries.


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## Crackle (14 Jan 2009)

The road to Uig is not too bad and the ferry journey good, though it can get rough. I came back from Stornoway to Ullapool in a heavy sea and lay outside on the top deck in full waterproofs, head on handlebar bag and slept through it. Harris to Stornoway has one big climb and then the road is quite open, lots of lochans and it's often windy. 

Getting the ferries is all part of the Western Isles adventure.


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## furball (14 Jan 2009)

It is generally better to travel from the south northwards. The wind is more likely to be in your favour (but no guarantees)


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## JackE (14 Jan 2009)

The Hebrides Tourist Board (Stornoway) publish a free leaflet on cycling from Barra to the tip of Lewis. I phoned them but you may be able to order it on-line. Very useful for historical background etc.


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## TwoTired (15 Jan 2009)

See also www.cyclehebrides.com


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## samid (15 Jan 2009)

Again, thanks for all the info.
Re direction of travel - ideally, I would like to do a complete loop, riding out of Edinburgh, and returning there. I.e. at some point I will have to ride against the wind. But perhaps the winds are likely to be stronger over the islands...


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## Tinytwin (15 Jan 2009)

Just wondered myself about wind on the islands, but that appears to have been answered. However, the other question is: when is the best time of year to cycle (when the wind is low, the sun is shining and the temperature is warm - if those exist!). Ta.


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## Alves (15 Jan 2009)

Tinytwin said:


> Just wondered myself about wind on the islands, but that appears to have been answered. However, the other question is: when is the best time of year to cycle (when the wind is low, the sun is shining and the temperature is warm - if those exist!). Ta.


definitely May or June in my experience of the Western Isles.
The midges are less, the tourists haven't arrived en masse (the roads are quieter and fewer caravans) the days are longer and the weather seems to be better.


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## furball (15 Jan 2009)

Tinytwin said:


> Just wondered myself about wind on the islands, but that appears to have been answered. However, the other question is: when is the best time of year to cycle (when the wind is low, the sun is shining and the temperature is warm - if those exist!). Ta.



If you go in July you can finish in Stornoway when the Hebridean Celtic Festival is on. You would need to either have accommodation booked or camp as everything gets booked up.
www.hebceltfest.com


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## rualexander (15 Jan 2009)

> I didn't do the Skye leg because riding across Skye is crap - A roads, basically. Didn't you find that?



Only about 40km out of the 120km from Uig to Armadale on Skye is on busier main roads if you cross over from Uig to Staffin and then go down the coast road to Portree. Portree to Broadford is the main road section but a bit of it (including a fair climb) can be bypassed on the old coast road after Sconser. Broadford to Armadale is ok and has a section of old road alongside it for a few miles. On a good day cycling on Skye is excellent.
As for the Western Isles, the Gatliff Hostels are great and you can camp at them too, great cycling if you get the weather .


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## IJCymru (15 Jan 2009)

ASC1951 said:


> Yes, I did find that. But I had a friend I wanted to see who ran a canoeing school in Uig and I knew the then landlord at the pub in Portree. The roads didn't seem too busy, in fairness, but I don't mind bits of A road if I don't think I'm going to be slaughtered i.e. not the A65.
> 
> BTW, samid, I assume that being from Toronto you won't be phazed by midges. Us Sassenach poofs find that the Western Scottish midge is in a class of its own.



Yeah I have been to Eige and Rum in the inner Hebrides around July time a few years ago and the midges were shocking. Make your take a mosquito head net or you just get covered in bites.


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## Martin123 (17 Jan 2009)

Hi

The outer hebrides is a magical place to cycle especially if your lucky enough to get good weather.

The are a lot of interesting historical sites like brochs, standing stones, castles and the black house village.

I think from what you said you are going to be cycling into a headwind for most of the way. My advice would be to cycle from south to north and cycle with the prevailing wind rather than against. 

I can second the recommendation for the gatliff hostels (www.gatliff.org.uk), they are cheap, in traditional buildings and situated in stunning locations especially the one at Berneray right on the beach where you frequently see dolphins. There is a fantastic smokehouse on North Uist (www.hebrideansmokehouse.com) where you can stop and get a fantastic roadside lunch of peat smoked salmon, sea trout or maybe some scallops to cook up at the hostel when you get to Berneray. You could start with a ferry from Oban to Barra, camp on the beach near the airport and then get the ferry over to south uist, cycle through the Uist's and then ferry up to harris and then up to lewis.

Another tip is to be careful of the infamous scottish midge if you are going in the summer - I would recommend 'skin so soft' otherwise you may end up like a couple of cyclists I saw with maybe 50 or 60 bites per leg! They sell it on amazon.

Enjoy your trip.


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## samid (18 Jan 2009)

Once more, many thanks for all the great info guys. I think I'll follow the advice of Martin123, get on a ferry from Oban to Barra, and go (hopefully, with the wind) North from there. BTW, got my plane tickets last night


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## snorri (18 Jan 2009)

You have probably seen this one already.
http://www.calmac.co.uk/


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## HJ (19 Jan 2009)

The Hopscotch tickets are really good for doing your sort of a tour, you used to be able to get them combined with rail tickets which was really handy, but not sure if you still can...


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## samid (19 Jan 2009)

Hairy Jock said:


> The Hopscotch tickets are really good for doing your sort of a tour, you used to be able to get them combined with rail tickets which was really handy, but not sure if you still can...


Wow, that's absolutely great, thanks A LOT! (I did see the calmac site before, checking out the ferry times and fares, but did not notice the "Hopscotch tickets"...)


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## HJ (19 Jan 2009)

Traveline Scotland is also a useful source of information about taking your bike on public transport in Scotland.


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## andrew_s (20 Jan 2009)

Martin123 said:


> Another tip is to be careful of the infamous scottish midge if you are going in the summer - I would recommend 'skin so soft' otherwise you may end up like a couple of cyclists I saw with maybe 50 or 60 bites per leg! They sell it on amazon.



What I've always wondered is how a country infested with the midge could come up with the kilt as its national dress.
Does this say something about the intelligence of your average scotsman, or are they all immune?


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## Bodhbh (20 Jan 2009)

andrew_s said:


> What I've always wondered is how a country infested with the midge could come up with the kilt as its national dress.
> Does this say something about the intelligence of your average scotsman, or are they all immune?


I think they're a relatively recent, man-made phenomenon - to do with the deforestation of the highlands or somesuch. Although don't know if they kilt came before or after the midge.

Also looking to visit in May/June, for a 7 day week. Was thinking to have a very relaxed schedule - 30-50miles a day and a couple of off days walking or whatever. Given that, is it enuff time to do the full south >> north route with island hopping or better to stick, with say Harris and Lewis? (no doubt will look properly at a map later but as the thread is here!).


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## mazza (20 Jan 2009)

if your going to north uist the hostel in bernray is great and worth a day or or two it nice to walk on beaches on the west of the island


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## iandg (22 Jan 2009)

The 'road' to Ness a few mile north of Tolsta












Following the way markers you'll be up to your waist in peat, even following the cliff tops it's a bog slog


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## iandg (22 Jan 2009)

And don't forget to plan for a 'closed' Sunday in Lewis/Harris. No Ullapool-Stornoway or Tarbert Uig ferry, but there is a Leverburgh Berneray one. Very little open other than Engebrets service station/mini market (10.00-16.00hrs) plus a few pubs and bars but no cafes.

Shouldn't be affected by midges in May or June (but then I may have become immune), August and September are the worse months

check out my flickr pics for some Lewis/Harris pics to wet the apetite


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## Comatosed (22 Jan 2009)

I cycled from Barra to Stornoway in August 2006 and had a fantastic trip, so I thought I'd recommend a few places to camp and a few pubs etc. I did the trip in two weeks, so it was a very chilled out pace. It was good to have this time though, as it gave me plenty of chance to get a taste of the place and mix with people.

I got the ferry from Oban and camped just past Garrygall, about a mile or so down the road from Casblebay on the first night. It was a nice spot on long grass which made for a comfortable bed. Try to cycle over to Vatersay, it's such a peaceful place.

I think generally Barra, Vatersay and Eriskay were the highlights of my trip. The landscape is amazing and the locas are exceptionally friendly and hospitable. There's an excellent camping spot on Eriskay just down the road from Am Polotition - well worth staying there.

Next night I stayed in a characterful bunkhouse in Howmore. Oh, try and familiarise youself with the Gaelic names as well as the English because you might find yourself stuck otherwise!

Uist is relativley flat, so you can get a fair distance covered in a reasonable time. There are a couple of shops and pubs along the way, but not too many so make sure you have at least 2 days worth of food with you all the time.

The lochs through Benbecula and Lochmaddy are quite surreal! I suffered a massive midgi attack in Lochmaddy - so not the most fond memories!

Harris. There is an excellent bunkhouse in Leverburgh ! I mean really good, nice new timber building with an open fire and excellent facilities. It was such a welcome break from camping rough all week. Rodel Church is worth a visit.

Quite a demanding cycle from Leverburgh to Tarbet. I like Tarbet, nice to see a few faces once in a while. The youth hostel is ok...and the pub is quite good. (at some points on these trips anything with a roof is good!).

A difficult cycle again from Tarbet up through North Harris, but a fantastic setting.

There is a pub somewhere on the A859 near Loch Erisort that is OPEN ON SUNDAYS!!! They let you camp in their garden, and you can have breakfast in the morning.

Calainis standing stones, worth a see. East Loch Roag, spectacular. The black house bunkhouse (something like that) is definatly worth a stay. Old stone bunkhouses with open fires and lots of character.

Then I went to Stornaway which has a couple of good pubs and good art gallery, and back on the ferry over to Ullapool where I got the bike bus to Inverness.

It was such a fantastic trip, so peaceful and rewarding. I'm going to spend another two weeks over there cycling this year I think.

Have fun,


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## Alves (23 Jan 2009)

Samid, if you pm me I have a book called The Isles and Highlands of Western Scotland, Island Hopping Bike Adventures by Phil Horsley which is very pertinent to your plans. It was published in 1997 but frankly nothing much changes in a decade over there and it is well written and mapped.
It belonged to a friend who did an "island hopping" trip last year and he no longer wants it.
I'd be happy to snail mail it out to you


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## Tail End Charlie (23 Jan 2009)

The book mentioned above is very good. It gives a bit of local history which I like. The odd shop or camp site in it has closed but nothing too major.


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## Alves (25 Jan 2009)

Tail End Charlie said:


> The book mentioned above is very good. It gives a bit of local history which I like. The odd shop or camp site in it has closed but nothing too major.


Samid, thanks for the pm, I'll post the book tomorrow.
You also asked about climbing and bouldering. There is quite a lot of rock in the Hebrides esp sea cliffs. One of the biggest crags in the UK, Sron Ulladale is in Harris, over 500 feet high which is big by our standards. There are some good climbs at Uig on the west coast.
You're unlikely to meet other climbers though and it is all pretty desparate and difficult.
Bouldering on Harris I don't know about but it is very rocky in parts so there must be plenty of potential. You'd need a windy day though or the midges will have you for breakfast if you stay in one place for long enough.

Incidentally a friend of mine told me a story about the single track roads there.
He'd come across this line of cars going really slowly and overtaken them all eventually by using the laybys and passing places and driving like a maniac.
When he got to the front of the queue, there was a hearse...he'd raced a funeral cortege. He left the island the next day.


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## iandg (25 Jan 2009)

Comatosed said:


> Then I went to Stornaway which has *a couple of good pubs *and good art gallery, and back on the ferry over to Ullapool where I got the bike bus to Inverness.



Please inform me which, the pubs in Stornoway are dire 

Seriously tho' there are a couple of good bars - but the beer is sh1t (IMO). There's a local brewery but no one sells their beer on pump, except occasionally An Lantair (the art centre). The Carlton (previously the Whalers Rest) is the only other place in town with hand pulled ale. 

I choose the art centre, carlton lounge, crown hotel lounge or macneills if I go out for a drink. But, generally speaking Stornoway bars are not my idea of good pubs - keep clear of the Clachan! 


The Harris Hotel also has hand pumps (and good food), the Deuchars was excellent last time I visited. The Erisort Inn mentioned by Comatosed is on the B8060 about a mile from the A859 turn off at Balallan - the owners are friendly as mentioned, and there is a bunkhouse/YHA nearby, never stopped there or heard reports tho'. Other hotel bars now tend to be open on Sundays too, such as Doune Braes, Carloway; Cross Inn Cross, Nr. Ness, and the Rodel Hotel, so you can get food and drink out in the wilds, but only a few in town are open for food - a big change since I moved up here 11 yrs ago. 

The Leverburgh bunkhouse, as mentioned is exellent (Am Bothan) and there is a recently opened Heb Hostel in town which is getting good reports I believe. There is also one at the Laxdale campsite a few miles out of town.
check out the blue hostel guide for independent bunkhouses

http://www.hostel-scotland.co.uk/


+1 for the Phil Horsley book, Harry Henniker '101 Bike Routes in Scotland' is also good

If I can be of any help please contact me


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## iandg (25 Jan 2009)

Having just re-read your original post, Cycling down to Barra would (IMO) be a better option than Skye. As others have mentioned, the cycling is easy because its relatively flat (unless you get a strong headwind) and the roads are quieter than Skye - I have never enjoyed cycling the main route through Skye from Uig thro' Portree to kyleakin, as it's busy with lots of lorries and coaches. 

Cycling to Barra you can catch the ferry to Oban and access the train back to civilisation, via Skye the Armadale-Mallaig ferry links with train

The island hopper tickets previously mentioned are good, and we have recently had Road Equivalent Tarrif introduced so ferry costs are cheaper - A bike is now free on the Stornoway-Ullapool route. It cost me £3.00 each way last time I went over by bike, IIRC


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## Comatosed (26 Jan 2009)

wicker man said:


> Please inform me which, the pubs in Stornoway are dire



The Criterion, and there was an Irish pub that I quite liked.


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## iandg (26 Jan 2009)

Comatosed said:


> The Criterion, and there was an Irish pub that I quite liked.



The Irish pub is Macneills which I do use, The Crit' is the only pub in town I've never ventured into even tho' it looks like the kind of English Pub I would have used in the past - will have to give it a try


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## Comatosed (28 Jan 2009)

wicker man said:


> The Irish pub is Macneills which I do use, The Crit' is the only pub in town I've never ventured into even tho' it looks like the kind of English Pub I would have used in the past - will have to give it a try



Have a pint in there over the weekend and tell me what you think 

I think this year I'll cycle to Uig and the Ness, any recomendations for places to camp in those areas?


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## furball (4 Feb 2009)

You can camp close to Uig beach. It is stunning.


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## iandg (4 Feb 2009)

Similar area to Uig, there's a small campsite at Reef too, just behind this beach - busy with 'townies' from Stornoway at the weekend. I have seen a sign for a campsite on the Ness road and I think there's something near Carloway, can't remember where and don't know what it's like tho'. Sorry, but I don't spend many nights under canvas, when I manage to find the time to tour I use hostels.


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## the_c00ler_king (9 Apr 2009)

Samid,

I am doing a very similar trip to you, but from south upwards. I am planning on starting in Glasgow, cycling to Ardrossan, ferry to Arran and then continuing northwards at a gentle pace across the highlands and islands with the intention of finishing in Stornoway coinciding with the Hebceltfest. I am planning to do it in the middle of July, but have not finalised the dates.

I am looking at about 450miles in 11 days so it is quite a tourist pace, but it is my first tour (I will post more details of my planned route in the relevant forum when I get a chance) and due to the current financial situation I think it will be a great cheap holiday. I can't wait.

Bill.


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## Proud2Push (9 Apr 2009)

On Barra try the Castlebay Hotel bar, you might just find the Vatersay Boys giving an impromptu performance like we did when we sought refuge from the rain just as the Celtic/Rangers cup final was finishing - it was one of the highlights of a wonderful trip. 

I agree with comments about the roads on Skye. They have terrible surfaces and the traffic past Portree is heavy and fast. It isn't just trucks and coaches, but large motorhomes (usually German and Dutch) - the bane of the Islands. It baffles me why they drive all the way from mainland Europe presumably for the Scottish scenery and then spend their time dashing up and down the islands at 60 to 80 mph. They could do that on their autobahns. The over use by motorhomes of wild camping spots on Islands like Berneray (and the tons of garbage they leave behind) is why wild camping is being restricted so much. That's better - I just had to get that off my chest.

BTW a sidetrip to Raasay gives a good break from the pressures of Skye.


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## samid (9 Apr 2009)

the_c00ler_king, thanks for bumping my thread  - was going to search for it as the time of my trip approaches, and I wanted to refresh all the info in my head. I'm flying to Scotland on May 22, and will start my tour mid of week after that. As several people advised, I will also go from south up... hopefully going with the wind. I'll ride from Edinburgh to Oban, and take a ferry to the islands from there. Don't have any set in stone plans after that... will see how it goes, what the weather is etc. Currently I'm planning to spend around 10 days on the road but could do more. Hopefully will have photos to share when I return.


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## Bromptonaut (12 Apr 2009)

Been travelling to the Hebrides at some time in most of the last 25 years. Kids etc mean we've mostly been in self catering cottages recently but we've hostelled/bunkhoused as well. 

I'd endorse the idea that, while nothing is guaranteed, you are less likely to be wind hindered starting from Barra. Although lengthy the crossing from Oban is, in good weather, a scenic feast. Barra itself is worth a good day, try and arrive at Northbay beach in time to see the "twotter" arrive/depart from the Uk's only sand airport. 

Taking the ferry to Eriskay and proceeding up Uist the hostel at Howmore is a must, walk the surrounding lanes in the evening and watch the birdlife, you might also hear but are unlikley to see the Corncrake. Benbecula has always struck me as a bit urban, contaiaing a significant military presence and associated squaddie housing. North Uist has magniifcent beaches and, in the right weather views to the Monach Isles and St Kilda. The eastern coast road round Harris is truly spectacular but as it repeatedly rises to the cliff tops then drops down to the sea again it can be hard going. 

Lewis's hidden scenic gem, apart from the road to Uig, is the Pentland Road. Looks like a track on some maps but is in fact mettalled and passable by car along its entire length across the middle of Lewis. Bit difficult to find at the Stornoway end as it its not well signed - it starts by the Citroen garage at Marybank

As others say the Am Bothan bunkhouse in Leverburgh is excellent. There is also camping available near Horgabost where there seems to be an attempt to set up community run basic campsite facilities. The bunkhouse in Tarbert is OK but felt a little densly populated after AmBothan. 

If camping/hostelling palls at all there are many many excellent B&B establishments. 

Good luck and we may pass on the road as I shall be based on Lewis for the week of the 23rd May - travelling in a Citroen Berlingo with the plate LOV21.


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## samid (13 Apr 2009)

Many thanks Bromptonaut,
Your advice is much appreciated. I'll be traveling there - at least I hope to be - the same week as you, if you notice a tired guy on a yellow steel bike do stop to say hi  - but I'll try to remember your license plate and wave if I see you


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## Cromcruaich (14 Apr 2009)

Biking it end of may (sounds like place is gonna be swarming!). Planning to take a couple of light rods for spinning, anyone recommend any (sea) fishing spots?


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## furball (14 Apr 2009)

Cromcruaich said:


> Biking it end of may (sounds like place is gonna be swarming!). Planning to take a couple of light rods for spinning, anyone recommend any (sea) fishing spots?



I don't know anything about fishing but I met a guy at Howmore hostel who was there for a weeks fishing. I think he took the B890 to its end at Loch Sgioport on the east side and then walked along the footpath past the shielings and fished somewhere round there.


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## Bromptonaut (24 May 2009)

Greetings from Griomsiader, Lewis. How's it going? 

Weather at mo is wet and _very_ windy, though it's dropped back in the last hour. Forecast is for an improvement this afternoon but remaining changeable until after Tuesday. 


Still, at least the wind is in the south :-)


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## Bodhbh (2 Jun 2009)

Just come back from just over a week over there, a couple of us heading north from Barra with the odd diversion. Probably too late for the OP, but few things springing to mind which might be of use for anyone else heading over.

The wind was pretty brutal. Not sure how typical it was, but I did not envy the several cyclists we saw heading south into it. We were at best a couple of mph into single figures when we had to go against it.

All accomadation was full. The only time we got a bed for the night was at the Howmore hostel, when we got the last 2. We ended up at Berniray the next night but it would have been kipping on camp beds in the of the floor middle so we camped outside. At Tarbet, despite much phoning about by the lasses at the tourist office, everything was full, bunkhouse, B&B, the hotels and the situation was the same at Stornoway. Not a huge problem as we had tents and the wild camping options were simply stunning, but there were times when we could have used a shower etc. On that note, the swimming pool just outside Tarbet lets you use the showers for a quid.

The warden at the Stornoway campsite said the accomadation situation it had been like it several weeks now, guess weak pound, credit crunch etc, Although he also mentioned something about Calmac had halving the fare on mobile homes.

We were on MTBs and made assumption the East coast path down from the Butt to Stornoway was passable but were warned-off a couple of times and in the end decided not to risk getting stuck. Apparently, it's just flag markers through bog (sorry Wickerman your photos are blocked here) and someone got stranded trying to take a bike through last year.

Great trip btw, not enuff time despite 8 days and 260 miles looking about. Missed the west of Lewis due to some misinformation about the shops over there and running out of provisions. Would love to go back and fix that sometime.


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## Bromptonaut (2 Jun 2009)

Noticed rather more caravans and camper vans than before but did not make the link with Calmac's RET (road equivalent tariff) experiment.

It was certainly a very windy week right up until Friday morning when the sun and heat finally arrived. Hope I did not miss samid on the road - did see one rider in a Canada shirt making the best of the wind from Gearraidh na h-aibhne towards Stornoway on Wednesday.


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