# New to Fixed wheel



## Spiderweb (24 Oct 2018)

I’ve just bought a second hand Giant Bowery fixed/single speed (flip flop hub) bike and was looking for any advice/ tips on riding the bike, I’ve never ridden fixed but always wanted to give it a go. Also any opinions on the bike itself, anyone ridden a Bowery?
Thanks all in advance.

Edit - the gearing is 48t x 16t fixed with 170mm cranks.

How tight should the chain be? when I collected the bike the chain definitely felt too tight, there was resistance when turning the cranks, I’ve adjusted the tension bolts on the drop outs and it feels much smoother now.


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## biggs682 (24 Oct 2018)

Looks nice bike @Spiderweb 
I enjoy my singlespeed bikes and i like giving the fixed set up but i just prefer the singlespeed more , my advice would be to just get out there and try it 
The Bowery's always look nice to me but never ridden one


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## rogerzilla (24 Oct 2018)

You get used to controlling the bike by altering torque rather than cadence or gearing. Pedalling while braking takes some getting used to.

Fixies excel uphill because they keep the pedals turning for you; you just hsve to push and pull. Downhill they can be a handful, so keep your ankles moving and, for short steep downhills, try and apply a bit of power as this makes it easier to keep up. Sit up straight on long hills to increase air drag, and be wary of overheating brakes which could pop a tyre off the rim. Alternate between front and rear, if you run two brakes.

A gear around 70" (48 x 18) is a good starting point but something slightly lower is preferable for winter. Pushing a big gear into a gale is no fun.


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## DCLane (24 Oct 2018)

Ah! So it was you who outbid me


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## Spiderweb (24 Oct 2018)

rogerzilla said:


> You get used to controlling the bike by altering torque rather than cadence or gearing. Pedalling while braking takes some getting used to.
> 
> Fixies excel uphill because they keep the pedals turning for you; you just hsve to push and pull. Downhill they can be a handful, so keep your ankles moving and, for short steep downhills, try and apply a bit of power as this makes it easier to keep up. Sit up straight on long hills to increase air drag, and be wary of overheating brakes which could pop a tyre off the rim. Alternate between front and rear, if you run two brakes.
> 
> A gear around 70" (48 x 18) is a good starting point but something slightly lower is preferable for winter. Pushing a big gear into a gale is no fun.


The gearing is 48t x 16t fixed, I was thinking that could be a little tough on even the smallest hillocks. (I’m not great up hills!).


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## Spiderweb (24 Oct 2018)

DCLane said:


> Ah! So it was you who outbid me


Really?
It was a really good price, daylight robbery almost, you should have bid more.

He had a stunning Ron Kitching recently refinished by Bob Jackson, unfortunately he has no plans to sell that.


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## rogerzilla (24 Oct 2018)

That's rather high for general knocking about, although it will work ok and some people like 48 x 16 as a general gear. 48 x 18 (70" on 700c) is the classic medium gear, though.


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## DCLane (24 Oct 2018)

Spiderweb said:


> Really?
> It was a really good price, daylight robbery almost, you should have bid more.



Possibly, but it was a punt rather than major interest. In the end I probably just cost you a cup of coffee's worth more 

Enjoy the bike. Single speed doesn't work that well in the hills around me so it'd have been for summer holiday use.


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## Venod (24 Oct 2018)

Ride it on the freewheel side for a while but try not to freewheel, get used to pushing a bigger gear up hill than you would with a geared set up, downhill keep pedalling with the freewheel to see how fast your legs need to be going on fixed, when you think you are ready flip the wheel and enjoy the purist form of cycling you will ever encounter, I used to love fixed but it doesn't love me in old age.


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## Spiderweb (24 Oct 2018)

Afnug said:


> Ride it on the freewheel side for a while but try not to freewheel, get used to pushing a bigger gear up hill than you would with a geared set up, downhill keep pedalling with the freewheel to see how fast your legs need to be going on fixed, when you think you are ready flip the wheel and enjoy the purist form of cycling you will ever encounter, I used to love fixed but it doesn't love me in old age.


That’s a good plan, Definitely freewheel for the first few rides.


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## Profpointy (24 Oct 2018)

Spiderweb said:


> That’s a good plan, Definitely freewheel for the first few rides.



Not convinced - for me at least it’s The fixiness that gives the appeal rather than only having one gear. you can get the latter simply by not changing gear on a normal geared. Ike after all


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## Milkfloat (25 Oct 2018)

The one major fixed wheel rule is ‘don’t forget to pedal’. At some point you will try and freewheel, but you will get some instant feedback to remind you. 

On chain tension, you will need to experiment, you really don’t want it too slack. You will find that the tension changes throughout the rotation of the chain ring. You want to have it just loose enough at the tightest point, for me that is a maximum of 2cm of up and down wiggle on the chain at it's slackest point.

Enjoy the ride.


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## rogerzilla (25 Oct 2018)

The chain should be as tight as possible without actually binding at any point. It helps to accurately centre the chainring on its spider (see Sheldon) to minimise variations in tension. An unshipped chain on a fixie can have very bad consequences if it gets caught kn the pedal spindle.

If there is visible slack, it's not right.


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## Spiderweb (25 Oct 2018)

Can anyone advise on the best procedure for removing the back wheel please.


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## Ian H (25 Oct 2018)

Just ride it. After a while you get the hang of it. 

On hills I find there's an optimum pace where you can roll the gear without unnecessary effort (up to a certain steepness, then it becomes a matter of power). 

Downhill, try to get used to high cadence (I used to be able to exceed 200rpm, but my pensioner legs struggle beyond 160 now). 

Currently I'm riding a 63" gear. In summer I can swap to 67". Early-season time-trials were often run on medium gear (72"); I wouldn't go higher than that on the road.


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## Sharky (25 Oct 2018)

Got the same - Bowery 72







Has been one of my favourites. Well used to fixed and rode it initially as a fixed, but as there are many descents round here, now prefer a SS freewheel. I also found after breaking my collar bone a couple of times, that it put a strain on my shoulders on longer rides with fixed. This photo was at an early season 10 and I think I was on about an 84" fixed, but for normal riding, use a 44x17 which is about a 68" gear.

Have since replaced the front forks as they developed a creak and the wheels have changed over the years, but still the basic Giant underneath.


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## Sharky (25 Oct 2018)

Spiderweb said:


> View attachment 435345
> 
> 
> Can anyone advise on the best procedure for removing the back wheel please.



I've never used a contraption like that to stop the wheel slipping. Have always found that the normal wheel nuts do the job just fine.


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## rogerzilla (25 Oct 2018)

Those are chaintugs. Remove the axle nuts and loosen the tug nut and you should be able to slip the chaintug's loop off the axle. I wouldn't bother with them unless you have chromed dropouts, which can be rather slippy. On normal dropouts you can even run a QR skewer, if you have an appropriate type of hub with hollow bolted axle (e.g. Goldtec). My Bob Griffin is currently fixed and is using a respaced Campag Record freewheel hub with a QR - no slippage at all.


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## colly (25 Oct 2018)

Good advice in the previous posts. Especially about remembering to pedal.
As for getting up hills, if you find hills a chore, pedalling fixed should help you improve.
I find l can get up some climbs that even on a geared bike l am using all the gears available.
Maybe because fixed is more efficient, maybe is because you only have one gear and you just have to get on with it.


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## Spiderweb (25 Oct 2018)

So I've Sussed out how to remove the back wheel. I don't fancy fixing a puncture at the side of the road so I've swapped the tyres for some super tough 700x23 Specialized Armadillo's which I had in stock together with some 60mm valve inner tubes as the others were a little short for the deep section rims, the track pump wouldn't seat correctly.
I've put some pedals on with flat one side and SPD the other and I've swapped round the back wheel so I'm 'fixed'.
I've just had a tentative ride around at work and it's a bit tricky to say the least, it's the mounting and dismounting that's worrying. Anyway I will persevere, once I'm up a running it feels ok but the gearing feels tough, can't imagine how I'll cope with even the smallest hillock!


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## Ian H (25 Oct 2018)

I rode 60km to and from the pub last night on the fixed. You get used to it.


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## Spiderweb (25 Oct 2018)

Ian H said:


> I rode 60km to and from the pub last night on the fixed. You get used to it.


I think after a few beers I would be fine riding fixed, I've always been more confident after alcohol!
Maybe that's a plan!


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## rogerzilla (25 Oct 2018)

Mounting isn't too bad as you always know where the pedal will be. The problem comes when you haven't clipped in after a few revs and the bike is gathering speed downhill!


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## colly (25 Oct 2018)

You have to anticipate when coming up to a junction or lights. Unclipping at the best point becomes second nature after while. Even so it's easy to get it wrong, so learning how to step off at any stage of rotation is useful.


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## Milkfloat (25 Oct 2018)

colly said:


> You have to anticipate when coming up to a junction or lights. Unclipping at the best point becomes second nature after while. Even so it's easy to get it wrong, so learning how to step off at any stage of rotation is useful.



But track stands ecome easier and more crucial, so no need to unclip.


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## colly (25 Oct 2018)

Milkfloat said:


> But track stands ecome easier and more crucial, so no need to unclip.


That's true of course but a grown bloke wobbling about in front of cars at the light just looks ......well.....naff.


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## skudupnorth (23 Nov 2018)

I run 48- 16 on a 170 crank and find it just right for everything I do whether it be commuting or Audax which I happily complete a 200k without any issues. You might have the odd walk if the lump is nasty but that's part of the fun ! DCLane can confirm the Audax'ness of my bike as he watched me leave for one in Lincolnshire in September


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## palinurus (23 Nov 2018)

Most important advice for fixed- ahead of 'remember to keep pedalling'- is take care when wiping the chain in situ. Keep the chain still, move the rag.


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## palinurus (23 Nov 2018)

Spiderweb said:


> I've just had a tentative ride around at work and it's a bit tricky to say the least, it's the mounting and dismounting that's worrying.



It'll quickly become second nature. After a while you'll even be able to swap between fixed and freewheel bikes without feeling like the latter is broken.


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## carpenter (7 Jan 2019)

Hi - seeking advice:

I last rode a fixed wheel about 45 years ago. Forgot to peddle going downhill on my first ride and went over the bars, I was young fit and bounced nothing hurt apart from my pride. 
I did get used to the fixed wheel though and found it brilliant for speed and my general fitness.

I am think of putting a fixed wheel on my next build, would it be advisable to do without the rat traps as I am not as flexible/well co ordinated as I once was.


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## rogerzilla (7 Jan 2019)

I would be reluctant to ride a fixie without being attached to the pedals. Flats are ok for low-speed stuff like bicycle polo but I want to know my feet won't come off when going downhill at 35mph. Clipless pedals are much better than clips and straps.


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## carpenter (7 Jan 2019)

Cheers


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