# Brompton Modifications



## steveglloyd (7 Jun 2021)

Hi all,

I take delivery of my first Brompton this week and cannot wait! Managed to get a new S6L, surprised as they seem to be like proverbial rocking horse poop right now.

A road cyclist and habitual tinkerer of my bikes, I was wondering if anyone has some key modification recommendations to set me off on my Brompton commuting adventure? I already have a Brooks Cambium saddle I plan to use but are there any key things I should swap/replace to start off with?

Thanks in advance

Steve


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## Cycleops (7 Jun 2021)

@chriscross1966 is the guy you need to talk to


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## Legomutton (7 Jun 2021)

Work out where all the cable etc. rubbing points are, folded and unfolded, and attach bits of helicopter tape/protection film.

Lights?

Eazy wheels were a 'no-brainer' for the P6R but I think your later bike will have the improved rollers anyway. The contact points are the obvious bits to swap if the standard offerings don't suit - saddle, grips, pedals. I find the Brompton saddle pretty good, and although I have used SPD pedals on mine I have the standard flats back on at the moment.

Has somebody told you to point the saddle to the right a bit when you lock the seat down so as to stop the bike banging into your leg when carried by the saddle nose? Perhaps you'll be looking for a different 'grip' when you fit the Cambium...


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## Fab Foodie (7 Jun 2021)

Ergon GP2 or GP3 grips.
Join the London Brompton Club website and fb page (even if not in Londinium)
Eazy Wheels if not fitted.
Firm suspension block or after market Ti Spring
Use the Front Carrier and Brompton Bags for carrying loads.
Decide whether it's an 'Objet d'art' or a bicycle.
Ride.


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## rogerzilla (7 Jun 2021)

Bar ends. Harder suspension block. Take it apart and put it back together again properly, if it's like mine was or like my mate's new one last year. Grease? They've heard of it.


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## steveglloyd (7 Jun 2021)

Thanks for the feedback everyone some great tips, appreciate you taking the time to reply,


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## steveglloyd (7 Jun 2021)

Legomutton said:


> Work out where all the cable etc. rubbing points are, folded and unfolded, and attach bits of helicopter tape/protection film.
> 
> Lights?
> 
> ...



Didn’t know about the saddle pointing to the right tip so thanks


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## mitchibob (7 Jun 2021)

rogerzilla said:


> Bar ends. Harder suspension block. Take it apart and put it back together again properly, if it's like mine was or like my mate's new one last year. Grease? They've heard of it.


Bar-ends (GP3 grips have been good for me) and Superfirm suspension block, and maybe titanium seatpost to go with it (I did the two together, so I can't comment on one without the other). Not much to do on either of mine on initial maintenance, but that's before they got really busy maybe. I did get one of the dodgy BBs but had replaced before they recalled.

Continental Contact Urban Tyres.


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## rogerzilla (8 Jun 2021)

Can you get Brompton Ti seatposts again? Years ago they were the best bang for the buck in terms of weight saving, but weren't offered for long. Brompton replaced them with an alu one, which turned out to be a bit of a failure, and it's been steel-only for years. I've had an original Ti post since 2009.

I once fitted a cheap J&L Chinese aftermarket Ti post to a different Brompton. Rode it around the block and immediately took it off again. It was suspiciously flexible and I feared impalement.


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## cougie uk (8 Jun 2021)

Definitely the grips. I've also changed the catches for magnetic ones that stay in place better - helps with the fold/unfold.


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## sheddy (8 Jun 2021)

Front bag ?


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## mitchibob (8 Jun 2021)

rogerzilla said:


> Can you get Brompton Ti seatposts again? Years ago they were the best bang for the buck in terms of weight saving, but weren't offered for long. Brompton replaced them with an alu one, which turned out to be a bit of a failure, and it's been steel-only for years. I've had an original Ti post since 2009.
> 
> I once fitted a cheap J&L Chinese aftermarket Ti post to a different Brompton. Rode it around the block and immediately took it off again. It was suspiciously flexible and I feared impalement.



I've done about 24,000km with my cheap chinese Ti seatpost. Saves a good 300-350g and outlasted the saddle. For £60 was definitely worth the punt. Just doesn't have the flanged end, so you can pull it straight out, unlike more expensive ones.


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## Kell (8 Jun 2021)

I went with the Joseph Kuosac Suspension block. It's ultra hard and means there's no bobbing at all.

Brompton folding bike suspension swap - YouTube

I also put bar ends on mine to begin with, but I've found I use them less and less - so would probably (now) recommend Ergon grips instead.


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## steveglloyd (8 Jun 2021)

sheddy said:


> Front bag ?


It’s in the fathers day list


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## 12boy (10 Jun 2021)

The very large shopping bag is the cheapest but doesn't work too well with an S bar.
I second SPDs and Ergons. I have bar ends as well, which are nice for a hand position change. I put a little section of rubber fuel hose inside my "firm" suspension block. it is really firm now and doesn't squeak.
But primarily, ride it around for a while and get used to it as is. You may want to change your gearing and is a lot cheaper to change a sprocket on the hub than a chainring, and a lot easier too.
I would make a point of removing and reinstalling the rear wheel, especially adjusting the Sturmey Archer hub and removing and reinstalling the tire. Learning the process at home with Youtube tutorials on hand is very different than doing it in the dark and rain for the first time. Fixing a flat will require a 15 mm wrench and some tire irons.


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## Gunk (10 Jun 2021)

sheddy said:


> Front bag ?



Best mod I did was the front basket.


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## Gunk (10 Jun 2021)

I would also recommend the Brompton tool kit


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## Tenkaykev (10 Jun 2021)

Gunk said:


> Best mod I did was the front basket.
> 
> View attachment 593104
> 
> ...


I made the same mod to a Wilko £12 basket but took it off when the daughter took one of the road bikes on ( I left the “ Klikfix” style bracket that came with the basket “in situ” and fitted the Brommie mount underneath so it worked on both bikes ) I was going to do the same on a new basket but the local Wilko are out of stock. Great mod though 👍


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## sheddy (11 Jun 2021)

Probably a stupid question - has anyone successfully fixed a rear puncture in situ just by pulling the affected bit of tube out, patching and pushing back under the tyre ?


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## rogerzilla (11 Jun 2021)

Not on a Brompton, but on a fixie when I'd forgotten to bring a spanner for the track nuts. It works.

Caveats:

1. A lot of my Brompton punctures have been failures at the valve stem, which can't be patched. The old style rims could be badly finished around the hole. I've filed the burrs off now. 

2. Patching in the rain is near-impossible.

3. It can be trickier to find the hole when the tube is still tangled up in the bike.


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## Fab Foodie (11 Jun 2021)

sheddy said:


> Probably a stupid question - has anyone successfully fixed a rear puncture in situ just by pulling the affected bit of tube out, patching and pushing back under the tyre ?


I've seen it done, but as I don't find removing the rear wheel much of a faff, I'd replace the tube out on the road...and fix the puncture whilst in a comfy chair....


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## Tenkaykev (11 Jun 2021)

sheddy said:


> Probably a stupid question - has anyone successfully fixed a rear puncture in situ just by pulling the affected bit of tube out, patching and pushing back under the tyre ?



As @Fab Foodie says, it’s a bit of a faff. I followed the excellent “ guide to fixing a Brompton rear wheel puncture” on the Brilliant Bikes YouTube channel. It’s a lot less daunting that it first appears. I practiced a couple of times in the comfort of the lounge so I feel confident that I could cope out on the roads. I did on one occasion try to pull the tube out with the wheel still on but it was too frustrating.
The only thing that I still struggle with is rerouting the chain round the tensioner.


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## Gunk (11 Jun 2021)

Just fold it up and call a cab


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## rogerzilla (12 Jun 2021)

SOP for Brompton commuters is indeed to call a cab and fix it later.

My tip would be to put a pair of disposable latex gloves in the box with your spare tube. They take up virtually no room but will save you from oily hands. I've never found a way to refit the chain tensioner without touching the chain. Also, if you loosen the rear wheel nuts and then shake the wheel from side to side, the tab washers will usually come out of their slots without having to use fingernails.


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## 12boy (12 Jun 2021)

Instead of latex gloves, you can also wax your chain with a mixture of wax and grease that won't pickup grit or get your hands dirty. the tip on wiggling the wheel to get the tab washers out is a good one.


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## berlinonaut (13 Jun 2021)

sheddy said:


> Probably a stupid question - has anyone successfully fixed a rear puncture in situ just by pulling the affected bit of tube out, patching and pushing back under the tyre ?


I've done it recently, more out of curiosity to find out if this would be a valid option for me. It works, but I fully agree with @Fab Foodie: Pulling out the rear wheel is no issue in practice (in opposite to what rumors say) and makes fixing way easier. I'd say in the end it is quicker, too. Worth noting that the tire in my experiment was the Kojak, so probably the easiest tire to fix a puncture with the wheel still mounted. I did it with the rear wheel folded under the main frame. In practice - as @Fab Foodie - in most cases I simply replace the tube and patch the defective one at home or in the hotel - simply the fastest way and a spare tube takes literally no space and no relevant extra weight with the Brommi.


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## steveindenmark (13 Jun 2021)

I think you have got most of the tips.
Ergo grips for sure. I ditched the folding pedals early on and use spds. Be careful with the pedal as they can gauge the frame. Helicopter tape. If you have an M type bar, a handlebar bridge is useful. The Brompton pump is good for decoration only. If you have other bikes you will not need a Brompton toolkit. Its a clever design, but expensive. You will need to carry a 15mm spanner for the rear wheel. Learn how to change a rear tube at home first and not on the road. There are several front bags made by Brompton. They are expensive for what they are. I will let you know what my most recent bag is. Could you post a photo of your bike? To fasten the phone to the bike use a Quadlock.


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## Tenkaykev (13 Jun 2021)

steveindenmark said:


> I think you have got most of the tips.
> Ergo grips for sure. I ditched the folding pedals early on and use spds. Be careful with the pedal as they can gauge the frame. Helicopter tape. If you have an M type bar, a handlebar bridge is useful. The Brompton pump is good for decoration only. If you have other bikes you will not need a Brompton toolkit. Its a clever design, but expensive. You will need to carry a 15mm spanner for the rear wheel. Learn how to change a rear tube at home first and not on the road. There are several front bags made by Brompton. They are expensive for what they are. I will let you know what my most recent bag is. Could you post a photo of your bike? To fasten the phone to the bike use a Quadlock.


I seem to remember that you are a dab hand with bespoke Brompton luggage Steve? I know I’ve admired some of your previous creations.


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## steveindenmark (13 Jun 2021)

Tenkaykev said:


> I seem to remember that you are a dab hand with bespoke Brompton luggage Steve? I know I’ve admired some of your previous creations.


No. They are just for fun. You need a good waterproof bag.


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## rogerzilla (13 Jun 2021)

When adding or changing stuff like saddles, bar ends, lights, bags etc, it's quite easy for the weight to creep up to 30lb or so. This is fine for riding, but bear in mind that a Brompton is sometimes carried up stairs or stowed in a cupboard, neither of which are fun when it weighs too much. So choose carefully!


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## mitchibob (13 Jun 2021)

steveindenmark said:


> To fasten the phone to the bike use a Quadlock.



I have to say, I'm never keen on sticking my main means on communication in case of emergency on the bike in that way. Far prefer a dedicated GPS head-unit, that have far better weather-proofing and general survivability (plus, far more usable on the bike), and have phone in slightly more secure pocket, or somewhere else, better protected.


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## Fab Foodie (13 Jun 2021)

Tenkaykev said:


> I seem to remember that you are a dab hand with bespoke Brompton luggage Steve? I know I’ve admired some of your previous creations.


If you buy an S bag frame you can attach Carradice saddlebags to the front.


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## steveindenmark (14 Jun 2021)

mitchibob said:


> I have to say, I'm never keen on sticking my main means on communication in case of emergency on the bike in that way. Far prefer a dedicated GPS head-unit, that have far better weather-proofing and general survivability (plus, far more usable on the bike), and have phone in slightly more secure pocket, or somewhere else, better protected.


I am the same as you. I keep my phone in my bag and use my Wahoo on the handlebar. I mentioned Quadlock as it is the most asked question on the Brompton FB site. I have had phones both fry and drown in the past. I now usually wear aeropex headphones and so do not need to have my phone out to get messages.


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## chriscross1966 (23 Jun 2021)

Cycleops said:


> @chriscross1966 is the guy you need to talk to


Well yes, but my answer to the OP is usually "everything but the frame " ...


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## Dogtrousers (23 Jun 2021)

Fab Foodie said:


> If you buy an S bag frame you can attach Carradice saddlebags to the front.


You mean one of these? https://brilliantbikes.co.uk/brompton-luggage-spares/293-brompton-s-bag-frame.html
Does it also need a front carrier block?
Do you just strap the saddlebag to the frame.

I ask this stuff because I'm thinking of getting a front bag for my Brompton, but they all seem a bit on the expensive side for something I use rarely these days. I have a Carradice Barley knocking around that I've not used in years.


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## Fab Foodie (23 Jun 2021)

Dogtrousers said:


> You mean one of these? https://brilliantbikes.co.uk/brompton-luggage-spares/293-brompton-s-bag-frame.html
> Does it also need a front carrier block?
> Do you just strap the saddlebag to the frame.
> 
> I ask this stuff because I'm thinking of getting a front bag for my Brompton, but they all seem a bit on the expensive side for something I use rarely these days. I have a Carradice Barley knocking around that I've not used in years.


Yes you need a front Carrier Block.
Then you strap or in my case Tie-wrap the bag to the frame. I used a Carradice Camper Longflap on mine for my Outer Hebs Camping tour. Works a treat. Barley should be no issue. 
The frame is quite handy....


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## rogerzilla (24 Jun 2021)

I've got the Joseph Kuosac extra firm suspension block now and, although it is a bit pricey at £20 for a lump of polyurethane, it is totally worth it. Almost rides like a normal bike. Probably wears the rear hinge quicker, but I can do rear hinges.


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## rogerzilla (25 Jun 2021)

You can add a grease point to the rear hinge but it needs to be done with the spindle and bushes out, so you can remove swarf and check your plug/grease nipple won't foul the spindle. I drilled a 5mm hole and tapped to M6 x 1 then cleaned up the inside of the hole with a small round file.

The hinge tube is quite thin-walled so you only get a few threads, not enough to stand up to a grease gun being wrenched off a grease nipple. So I made a plug from an M6 bolt cut down to length. An M6 grease nipple can be temporarily fitted (with an O-ring if it leaks up the threads) to purge the hinge and unscrewed with the gun still attached.

Because the spindle is such a close fit in the bushes, you will need a proper pistol grip grease gun to get any grease through. Moulton owners will know the kind of hand pressure needed.


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## berlinonaut (25 Jun 2021)

I do have my doubts about the usefullness of a grease nipple for greasing. From factory the hinge spindle is not greased as far as I can judge. The manual for exchanging the spindle recommends greasing to a very limited amount when mounting a new spindle - this seems mainly to prevent the spindle from corroding, not to keep it moving: https://www.perennialcycle.com/sc/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/brompton_hinge.pdf

In opposite what one does see in practice is often that the right hand side of the rear hinge is worn first, suspectedly influenced by oil coming from an overoiled chain and entering the spindle. When one side has play the other will follow soon after - no surprise. 

The one purpuse where the grease nipple is helpful is that it makes it potentially easier to remove a worn spindle by drilling into the spindle and this way to gain a lever to be able to break the bolts on the side loose which massively eases up the process. So I do consider a grease nipple at the rear hinge to be more of a mechanical facilitation than for greasing (which in my eyes is typically unnecessary and may even turn out to be harmful).


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## rogerzilla (25 Jun 2021)

Brompton instructions are to grease the bushes before fitting the spindle. The acetal facings of the bushes have dimples to retain grease.https://www.perennialcycle.com/sc/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/brompton_hinge.pdf

Removing the bolts is easier if you have the correct imperial allen bit for a 3/8" socket driver. 4mm is just no good. The whole rear hinge assembly is resolutely non-metric. The bushes are standard off-the-shelf parts, which you can buy if Brompton ever make them dealer-only.


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## 12boy (25 Jun 2021)

I have an oil port for my rear hinge and every once in a while I inject a lttle oil whicn turn seeps out much like my SA hubs. Seems fine and I have ridden thousands of miles. Too bad there is no cartridge bearing set up for the hinge.


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## rogerzilla (26 Jun 2021)

I think they stick with a plain journal bearing because it's very cheap (the bushes are about £1.50 each) and relatively easy to manufacture, with the reaming taking care of any small inaccuracies. Taper roller bearings would be really good but would require very high precision in the frame and rear triangle.

Moulton use the same system but with a bigger hinge and bronze Oilite bushes. These are easy to overhaul at home without special tools. They don't last much longer than a Brompton hinge (especially on a TSR, with its offset hinge) but at least you don't have to get your bike to a dealer and wait however long it takes in the queue for the workshop.


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## dimrub (15 Sep 2022)

Ok, don't judge me. Or do, I don't care . I know it's a classic design, well tested and changed carefully, yadda-yadda, I've owned one since 2003. But I got tired of all the extra-weight on my M6L, and, frankly, a rather dull looks, so I went to my friend Ali, last name Express. So far I replaced the handlebar, the grips, the lights, front and back, the pedals, the front bag block, the tires, the suspension block and the seatpost clamp. I also got brake handles, but apparently I need to recable in order to replace those, and I don't have the cables at hand. I also ordered new wheels, but I think this may have been a bit overly ambitious because I'll need to rebuild the rear one. Next up are frame clamps, easy wheels front and back, saddle bag - to match my Brooks, new seatpost, and a new front hook. I must say it looks great now, and rides better than before, though I'm not sure I can really feel the change in weight. I would have loved to replace the drivetrain, because that 3x2 is annoying, with 1x5 like that guy on YouTube, but that's a bit out of my league. I'm still not sure about replacing the brakes - probably not worth the effort.


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## ExBrit (15 Sep 2022)

Grips (either Ergon GP3 or 4) 
View: https://www.amazon.com/Ergon-Ergonomic-Lock-Handlebar-Compatibility/dp/B00TXJDAYC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ergon+gp4+grips&qid=1663279766&sprefix=ergon+gp4%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-2


Saddle (Brooks B17, Cambium) or Sella Anatomica 
View: https://www.amazon.com/Selle-Anatomica-X2-Black-Silver/dp/B073RM71TL/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=selle+anatomica&qid=1663279848&sprefix=Sella+anitomi%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-5


Quick release SPD pedals 
View: https://www.amazon.com/SPD-Pedals-Pop-Off-2nd-Generation-Quick-Release/dp/B07Z1DX3HJ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=38EBY5FAXPUB2&keywords=quick+release+spd+pedals&qid=1663279899&sprefix=quick+release+spd+pedals%2Caps%2C118&sr=8-5


Small front bag 
View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08H89PC6K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Vincita Rackbag 
View: https://www.amazon.com/Vincita-Nash-Bike-Trunk-Quick-Release/dp/B07TZM9YSG/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=vincita+brompton&qid=1663280033&sprefix=vinceta%2Caps%2C117&sr=8-14


I could go on forever


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## EltonFrog (16 Sep 2022)

That tip about turning the saddle slightly to the right is thus far the most useful thing I have read online anywhere about the Brompton.


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## Gunk (16 Sep 2022)

Good to see you back on the forum Carl, hope you’re well @EltonFrog


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## EltonFrog (16 Sep 2022)

Gunk said:


> Good to see you back on the forum Carl, hope you’re well @EltonFrog



Above ground and still breathing.


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## Gunk (16 Sep 2022)

EltonFrog said:


> Above ground and still breathing.



Better than being below ground and not breathing!


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## ExBrit (16 Sep 2022)

Gunk said:


> Better than being below ground and not breathing!



Or any of the other possible combinations, really.


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## roadrash (16 Sep 2022)

EltonFrog said:


> Above ground and still breathing.


I just posted if anyone knew your whereabouts, but i had forgot about you changing your username , are you not on the facebook kingpin page anymore


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## dimrub (19 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> Ok, don't judge me. Or do, I don't care . I know it's a classic design, well tested and changed carefully, yadda-yadda, I've owned one since 2003. But I got tired of all the extra-weight on my M6L, and, frankly, a rather dull looks, so I went to my friend Ali, last name Express. So far I replaced the handlebar, the grips, the lights, front and back, the pedals, the front bag block, the tires, the suspension block and the seatpost clamp. I also got brake handles, but apparently I need to recable in order to replace those, and I don't have the cables at hand. I also ordered new wheels, but I think this may have been a bit overly ambitious because I'll need to rebuild the rear one. Next up are frame clamps, easy wheels front and back, saddle bag - to match my Brooks, new seatpost, and a new front hook. I must say it looks great now, and rides better than before, though I'm not sure I can really feel the change in weight. I would have loved to replace the drivetrain, because that 3x2 is annoying, with 1x5 like that guy on YouTube, but that's a bit out of my league. I'm still not sure about replacing the brakes - probably not worth the effort.



So, my Brompton, before the mods:






After the mods:





Replaced:
- Tires and tubes
- Pedals
- Installed lights, back and front
- Eazy wheels + back roller
- Suspension block
- Seatpost (also got rid of the telescopic one + adaptor, so the seat moved a bit aft, better sitting position)
- Seatpost clamp
- Saddle bag
- Frame clamps
- Handlebar + grips
- Front bag block

The result is a bike that is lighter, has better suspension, rides better and is prettier (the last one is in the de gustibus category).

Things I would have liked to replace, but was unable to:
- Brake levers (for aesthetics)
- Wheels (for weight mostly, but also aesthetics)
- Mudguards
- Front hook
- Drivetrain (arrgh, that 3x2 is infuriating)
- Maybe cranks, definitely the crankset guard.


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## berlinonaut (20 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> Things I would have liked to replace, but was unable to:
> - Brake levers (for aesthetics)



This would not only be an aesthetic but also a functional upgrade. I seems you are running the original pre-2013 levers. An upgrade to the post-2013 version (or a 3rd-party variant) dramatically enhances breaking. The first thing I do on older Bromptons and in my eyes one the most important upgrades one can do. Highly recommended.


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## T4tomo (20 Oct 2022)

> I also got brake handles, but apparently I need to recable in order to replace those, and I don't have the cables at hand.



I dot understand this. I upgraded by brake levers like your to the new style ones (and it is a big improvement to the braking performance). You can simply re thread the existing cables onto it or is they have frayed ends etc just replace with new inner cables. The outer cable length remains unchanged.


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## dimrub (20 Oct 2022)

T4tomo said:


> I dot understand this. I upgraded by brake levers like your to the new style ones (and it is a big improvement to the braking performance). You can simply re thread the existing cables onto it or is they have frayed ends etc just replace with new inner cables. The outer cable length remains unchanged.



Not sure I follow. Here's the new lever:





Leaving aside the fact that now that it's here I'm not sure I want it on my bike - it seems a bit flimsy and cheap - it has a clear way of inserting and removing the end of the cable - by aligning the screw with the body, inserting the cable, then rotating the screw. 

And here is the current lever:






I don't see a way to remove the end (the ball?) from the enclosure, short of cutting the cable close to it, then inserting a new one. What am I missing?


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## cougie uk (20 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> Not sure I follow. Here's the new lever:
> 
> View attachment 665225
> 
> ...



Undo it at the brake caliper and push it through and out of the brake lever ? It's the reverse of how you'd fit it.


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## T4tomo (20 Oct 2022)

a 2003 bike would have originally come with on open clevis lever that you could simply slip in and out (but you'd still need to undo at the caliper end to generate some slack). Post 2008 it became closed clevis so you have to re thread the inner as per @cougie uk above. either way is still a quick and simple operation. Looks like your is a post 2008 level, there was a safety recall apparently as they changed the standard inner cable whicmeant teh olds ones became a bit dodgy if you used the new cable in it.

see https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/fitting-new-brake-levers-to-an-old-brompton.266207/post-6118331

anyway you defo want the new black levers on it. they work much better as well as looking and feeling better.


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## dimrub (20 Oct 2022)

Thanks folks, got it now. The only remaining issue is that the cables are crimped at the caliper, nothing that another trip to Aliexpress can't solve.


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## berlinonaut (20 Oct 2022)

T4tomo said:


> Looks like your is a post 2008 level, there was a safety recall apparently as they changed the standard inner cable whicmeant teh olds ones became a bit dodgy if you used the new cable in it.


The green bike in the pic is between 2009 and 2012 (mate color, fixed chainwheel, old levers), so not affected by the open-clovis topic.


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## 12boy (21 Oct 2022)

I bought a $20 pair of tektro clones which allow for removing the levers without pulling the cable and have a hinged clamp so the levers come off or on without moving the grips. They brake better and are handier for my uses.


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## Tenkaykev (21 Oct 2022)

12boy said:


> I bought a $20 pair of tektro clones which allow for removing the levers without pulling the cable and have a hinged clamp so the levers come off or on without moving the grips. They brake better and are handier for my uses.



Hi @12boy, good to hear from you, how are things?


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## 404 Not Found Anywhere (21 Oct 2022)

It’s worth going the whole hog and upgrading to the current combined brake and shifter levers. Apart from anything else they don’t rattle and make sequential shifting on the 6 speed far more straightforward


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## dimrub (21 Oct 2022)

404 Not Found Anywhere said:


> It’s worth going the whole hog and upgrading to the current combined brake and shifter levers. Apart from anything else they don’t rattle and make sequential shifting on the 6 speed far more straightforward



Rattle is not an issue. Straightforward shifting sounds like a great improvement, but in what way? My main issue with the 3x2 shifting is that left hand can only shift while pedalling, whereas right hand - only when coasting. Confusing as hell. And the shifters themselves are rubbish, but that's less of an issue. Anyway, couldn't find one that ships to Israel (and if it did, at a reasonable cost). That's one of the reasons I buy stuff from AliExpress: they ship pretty much for free.


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## Tenkaykev (21 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> Rattle is not an issue. Straightforward shifting sounds like a great improvement, but in what way? My main issue with the 3x2 shifting is that left hand can only shift while pedalling, whereas right hand - only when coasting. Confusing as hell. And the shifters themselves are rubbish, but that's less of an issue. Anyway, couldn't find one that ships to Israel (and if it did, at a reasonable cost). That's one of the reasons I buy stuff from AliExpress: they ship pretty much for free.



With respect. I'm in my 70's and the need to pause slightly when shifting the right hand hub gear took me a few minutes at most, the standard derailleur on the left was natural from the start. I rarely, if ever think about gear changes.


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## 404 Not Found Anywhere (21 Oct 2022)

Well, though I’ve used them for years, the original shifters were not the easiest to use and for me required a bit of contortion to use - YMMV. The new shifters are much more like Shimano trigger shifters. I also just back off the pressure on the pedals when I shift but never stop turning the cranks.


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## dimrub (21 Oct 2022)

Tenkaykev said:


> With respect. I'm in my 70's and the need to pause slightly when shifting the right hand hub gear took me a few minutes at most, the standard derailleur on the left was natural from the start. I rarely, if ever think about gear changes.



It's not an issue of having to remember which is which . It's the fact that in order to drop to a low gear, one needs to perform not one, but two operations - stop pedalling, reduce right gear, start pedalling, reduce left gear - this is annoying, especially when compared to, well, pretty much any other bike I ever rode. Seems like a trivial thing, but it is not, when you ride over a rapidly changing terrain (like my commute), and have to do this several times over a short ride.


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## Tenkaykev (21 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> It's not an issue of having to remember which is which . It's the fact that in order to drop to a low gear, one needs to perform not one, but two operations - stop pedalling, reduce right gear, start pedalling, reduce left gear - this is annoying, especially when compared to, well, pretty much any other bike I ever rode. Seems like a trivial thing, but it is not, when you ride over a rapidly changing terrain (like my commute), and have to do this several times over a short ride.



Perhaps it's me then, I usually keep the hub in 2nd and switch up + / - for the majority of my hilly terrain. On occasion I'll struggle on a hill, pause my pedal stroke momentarily and drop to 1 on the hub. I've fitted a 44 tooth on the front which helps immeasurably.


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## ExBrit (21 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> It's not an issue of having to remember which is which . It's the fact that in order to drop to a low gear, one needs to perform not one, but two operations - stop pedalling, reduce right gear, start pedalling, reduce left gear - this is annoying, especially when compared to, well, pretty much any other bike I ever rode. Seems like a trivial thing, but it is not, when you ride over a rapidly changing terrain (like my commute), and have to do this several times over a short ride.



I don't find it too difficult because I just soft-pedal for any gear change. The hub will shift while pedaling, just not under load. You can perform both shifts simultaneously. No problem. The front derailleur on my road bike will often refuse to shift under load too.


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## Dogtrousers (22 Oct 2022)

My brain gets a good workout if I do a long ride on my 6 speed Brompton.

To shift in strict order the procedure is (I hope I get this right): Always shift with your left hand first, regardless of the current position of the left shifter, move it to the other position. If that goes in the direction you want to go (up or down) job done. But if your left hand went in the wrong direction, then now change with your right hand in the correct direction. Every other change is a double change.


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## dimrub (23 Oct 2022)

Ok, thanks everyone, managed to install the new brake levers.


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## dimrub (24 Oct 2022)

...except those new levers have sharp edges. I wonder whether one can file down carbon fiber...


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## berlinonaut (24 Oct 2022)

dimrub said:


> ...except those new levers have sharp edges. I wonder whether one can file down carbon fiber...



One can but for the sake of your health definitively wear a mask - luckily we do all have FFP2 masks at hand...


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## Fastpedaller (27 Oct 2022)

Apologies if there is already a thread which answers my question....... I've set myself a £100 budget for this plan 
I have a Ti Brompton (ie genuine brompton with Ti fork and rear triangle. It is 2007 model with 2 speed. Does anyone know of a 4 or 5 derailleur gear conversion within my budget which doesn't involve changing to an expensive narrow chain? I've not checked the available dishing to assess whether it's possible without ending up with sever wheel dishing. My 'hurdles to overcome.... 1) Suitable rear hub to take 5 shimano sprockets 2) suitable gear change lever 3) Suitable chain tensioner (although as I'll want close ratio sprockets this may not be an issue)
TIA


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## Kell (27 Oct 2022)

Why Derailleur?

The old Brompton hub was a 5-speed. All the parts would fit. Could 'probably' pick up a SH wheel with a 5-speed for that.

Or if you already have the two speed, you could get a 3-speed BWR wheel.

In fact, I have a 3/speed BWR one that I was about to bin. Pay me the postage and you can have it. NB hub will need servicing (I took it apart and lost some bits!!) and it may need a new rim.


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## 12boy (27 Oct 2022)

BikeGang has a 12-14-17 set of sprockets for < $30. You may need a shifter....I used an old mtn bike friction shifter which works well. I also have 2 front chainrings...a 58 and a 38 on a Sugino 110 BCD crank. This requires the notorius greasy finger shift, but I only use the 38 for extended steep climb . Per Sheldon Brown that gives me 78-36 gear inches. If you can find an 11 tooth cog that will work if it is flat. The gear range is pretty close to the P line and with the extra chainring, larger. Perhaps not exactly what you envisione, but certainly not very expensive.


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## Fastpedaller (27 Oct 2022)

I don't like hub gears (or the weight of them). With a derailleur I can also use my spare shimano sprockets to get a close ratio. Thanks for your kind offer though. I realise the 'easy' way is to use a thinner chain and thinner sprockets, but I'd prefer not to go that route. I have an old 5 speed shimano 'later Uniglide' freehub with external and internal threads, so it may be possible to utilise some parts off that, but of course the hub would need respacing. There is the dishing query which I haven't measured yet.


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## berlinonaut (27 Oct 2022)

Fastpedaller said:


> I've set myself a £100 budget
> I have a Ti Brompton (ie genuine brompton with Ti fork and rear triangle. It is 2007 model with 2 speed. Does anyone know of a 4 or 5 derailleur gear conversion within my budget which doesn't involve changing to an expensive narrow chain?


I don't know of any and I would go as fas as to say: doesn't exist. Not with a "thick" chain and clearly not for that budget. As others have mentioned converting to three sprockets is possible, cheap and easy (but needs a 10-speed chain, so possibly ruled out already), converting to four sprockets is possible but not within your budget. Converting to five sprockets is possible in principle but lightyears outside your budget.


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## Tenkaykev (27 Oct 2022)

berlinonaut said:


> I don't know of any and I would go as fas as to say: doesn't exist. Not with a "thick" chain and clearly not for that budget. As others have mentioned converting to three sprockets is possible, cheap and easy (but needs a 10-speed chain, so possibly ruled out already), converting to four sprockets is possible but within your budget. Converting to five sprockets is possible in principle but lightyears outside your budget.



Just as a matter of interest I run one of my Brommies with a 10 speed chainI was advised that it probably wouldn’t shift properly but I tweaked the limit screws on the pusher and it’s fine ( I have to hold the shifter engaged momentarily when changing up )


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## LittleWheelsandBig (27 Oct 2022)

Last century, there were a few folk fitting derailleur gears to Bromptons. The ones I’ve seen involved cutting and narrowing Shimano hubs (getting flanges closer together) with obsolete 5sp freehub bodies. They were always finicky and undergeared. Stick with easier options.


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