# European Tour 2019 - Year of the Headwinds!



## RobinS (31 Jul 2019)

My wife Janet, and I (Robin) headed of to Europe for another cyclecamping tour this spring. Our last tour was documented in "European Tour 2017".

I hope to be able to post the full story of this year's trip in this thread, along with details of our kit and bikes.

*European Tour 2019 – Year of the Headwinds!*

*Friday 3rd May – Day 0*

Time for the off!

Bikes are sorted, kit checked and packed. We had ridden the bikes just once on a short shakedown ride to make sure they worked OK, but other than that had not been on a bike since last September – we will have to get fit as we go!

Everything loaded onto our little green Fiat Qubo, picked up younger daughter who was to drive the car home and off to Portmouth in plenty of time for the 20.15 ferry. Meal on board then off to our cabin for a good night's sleep.






Seabreeze, our Hedgehog mascot on the ferry waiting for the off.

*Saturday 4th May – Day 1*

St Malo to La Chapelle aux Filzmeens

The ferry docked at 8.15am, and we soon cycled round to the small ferry to cross to Dinard. Weather was cold, grey and very windy – a rough crossing!

At Dinard we soon found the V2 which here is an old railway track and headed south in the cold, rain and wind. We soon got down to Taden where we joined the canalside trail along the Rance. Through Dinan along the canal/river, stopped at Evran for food shopping, a supermarket up the hill, then on to La Chapelle to a very smart campsite a couple of kilometres from the canal. Cold, and some rain all the way, but the campsite had a bar where we could sit inside for a while.

58km.

*Sunday 5th May – Day 2*

La Chapelle aux Filzmeens to Rennes

Very cold night with a hard frost, but dawned sunny. We were slow away due lack of practice, and the very low temperatures, but we were away by 10.30 alonge canal path over the Channel/Atlantic watershed to Rennes. We found a nice campsite in parkland, and a bar by a lake where we had a beer in slightly warmer weather.

55km, Total 113km.





Seabreeze watching the rabbits play the pigeons at rugby next to the campsite.
*Monday 6th May – Day 3*

Rennes to Bourg du Comptes

Very cold with another hard frost, but clear skies. Up late again due to cold. As we will be on the road for much of the summer we really don't have anything in the way of cold weather gear, so these frosts are about the limit for the summer gear we have.

Away by 10.45, still cold and now cloudy. Followed roads back to the Ille canal, followed the towpath into Rennes, then the “Velo Express” route through town. Picked up the Vilaine towpath out of town, southwards on variable surfaces to Bourg du Comptes, a supermarket for food supplies, and a basic campsite. Weather finally brightening and a bit warmer.

40km, Total 153km

To be continued...….


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## RobinS (31 Jul 2019)

*Tuesday 7th May – Day 4*

Bourg du Comptes to Guemene Penfao

Back to the Vilaine towpath, a long way on variable surfaces, but weather gradually getting brighter and warmer. At Port de Besle we left the canal for the D151 to Guemene Penfao to the Super-U for two days of food, as the next day was to be a Bank Holiday in France. We got the tent up at the campsite and cooked dinner, but then it came onto rain again so we were early to bed.

54km, Total 207km





Picnic lunch on the road.

*Wednesday 8th May – Day 5*

Guemene Penfao to Nort sur Edre

Big storm with gales and heavy rain overnight had cleared by 8am, but it was still pretty breezy. We were away by 10am in the bright but windy weather, south towards Blaine, with the strong winds on our front quarter. At Blaine we took the Nantes Brest canal, as it was more sheltered. Continued in the very windy weather, some sun, but also plenty of nasty rain squalls, on to Nort sur Edre where the campsite was 3km off our route. Pitched tent in a gale, and it remained stormy as we went to bed. Mileages are pretty low, as we have full loads, and are not yet cycling fit, especially in headwinds!

46km, Total 253km

*Thursday 9th May – Day 6*

Nort sur Edre to Oudons

An even more ferocious storm overnight, bikes blown over, branches down and debris everywhere! Grey skies and windy as followed roads back to the EV1 where it follows devious back lanes, then onto a cyclepath alongside the main road into Nantes. Through the centre of the city on a cyclepath down the middle of the main road, finally reaching the Loire and the end of stage 1 of our tour – the crossing of Brittany.

We now set off on Stage 2, the Loire a Velo. Out of the city along the North bank, stopping for a celebratory beer at a trailside caravan bar. A diversion uphill on roads away from the river for last 10kms to Camping de la Tour at Oudons

65km, Total 318km





Reaching the Loire.

To be continued.....


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## RobinS (1 Aug 2019)

Friday 10th May – Day 7

Oudons to Challones

Still and calm in the morning, with solid grey cloud. Just as we set off the rain started. Followed the North bank, but out of sight of the river. Stopped for a pastry in Ancenis and crossed an old bridge to the South Bank. Cycled through woodlands then onto the embankment, in wind and rain. Found a Super U, and a campsite in Challones, then took a walk into town for a beer, still raining!

53km, Total 371km

Saturday 11th May – Day 8

Challones to Gennes

It rained all night, but had almost stopped by morning. Across the river again and follow the North Bank, good going, brighter weather and better scenery. A stretch of lanes away from the Loire, then back to river at St Mathurion where we crossed back to the South Bank. It was sunny now, and a bit up and down to Gennes. Cycled up a big hill to the Super U, then back down again to the campsite by the Loire. Fine warm and sunny for while so we did some washing, but the rain soon returned for the evening.

58km, Total 429km

Sunday 12th May – Day 9

Gennes to Montmoreau

A fine morning, but noisy due preparations for a Marathon going on along the river. We crossed the marathon course and went up the hill to a supermarket which was open Sunday mornings for lunch and dinner stuff then followed small roads above the river valley – a fair bit of traffic as the riverside road was closed for the race. Down to the river, crossing the course again and along into Saumur. The cyclepath was closed due roadworks, so we followed roads into town, and in trying to regain the correct route got mixed up in all sorts of road closures for the race. As we could make no progress for a while we got a beer and watched the runner pass by. Eventually we escaped to follow a nice trail, and minor roads along the river in fine sunshine. We found a nice campsite, and walked into town for another beer. First day with no rain at all, but due to the marathon we had not got very far!

33km, Total 462km





Watching the runners in Saumur


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## RobinS (2 Aug 2019)

*Monday 13th May – Day 10*

Montmoreau to Landeias

A fine sunny morning, but breezy. Soon off along the river embankment, across a tributary, then countryside lanes to Savigny for a morning pastry. Back to the riverside and along the embankment again, into a very strong headwind. Picnic by the river in a gale! Very hard going against the howling gale so stop early for supermarket and campsite at Landeias. Once pitched we walked into the town to see the chateau and historical town centre.

44km, Total 506km











*Tuesday 14th May – Day 11*

Landeias to Montlouis sur Loire

A fine and sunny morning, but again very windy. Back through town, then across the old bridge



and upstream along the levee against the very strong wind. Followed the River Cher upstream for a while, stopped for pastries and bread for lunch, but still very tough going, across open fields now, sometimes down to less then 10 km/h against the gale. A bit more sheltered as we rode into Tours, parkland, golf courses, then seedy suburbs, and finally an attractive city centre. Out again along the Loire, and still the ferocious headwind blows. Finally stopped at Lidl for food, and the campsite in Montlouis, completely drained by the fight against the wind.

45km, Total 551km

*Wednesday 15th May – Day 12*

Montlouis to Chaumont sur Loire

Sunny but very windy again! Uphill through Montlouis, then the route seemed to try to top every surrounding hill, with a tour of watertowers, still against the strong wind. Back sown to the Loire at Lussault and along the river to Amboise, a nice town with fine chateau, and a good pastry shop.



Uphill out of town again, more watertowers and headwinds! Back down to the river at Mosnes then uphill again at Rilly. Finally down to the river at Chaumont. We nipped across to Onzian for food at the supermarket, then back to a campsite by the river in Chaumont. Exhausted after fighting the headwind all day again.

46km, Total 597km

To be continued......


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## RobinS (2 Aug 2019)

*Thursday 16th May – Day 13*

Chaumont

After the trials of headwinds over the last few days, and with a forecast of very strong winds against us for today as well we decided to have our first rest day. Weather was fine (and windy!) so we got washing done and dried, and took a short ride across to Onzian for a beer and some food shopping.

7km, Total 604km




*Friday 17th May – Day 14*

Chaumont to Beaugency

Dry but cloudy in the morning, the wind has dropped from a gale down to a stiff breeze, still against us – cannot understand how we are getting so many strong winds from the east, prevailing winds are supposed to be westerly here! Continued along the south bank, behind the levee to Blois, where we crossed the Loire, and up a huge hill to a supermarket for food supplies. Then down through the town centre and out along the north bank to Beaugency where we crossed the river to the campsite. Weather cloudy and a bit damp all day, and we suffered millions of tiny black flies.

59km, Total 663km

*Saturday 18th May – Day 15*

Beaugency to Chateauneuf sur Loire

Some rain overnight and drizzly in the morning, but no wind! Set off across the river back to Beaugency, then through the middle of a field archery festival in light rain. The rain soon stopped and at Meung sur Loire we crossed back to the south bank. Nice riding on good surfaces led us to Orleans, across one bridge, along the river promenade, then crossed back to the south bank to exit the city. Carried on with nice riding to a supermarket at Sandillon, then the last stretch to Chateauneuf and a nice campsite by the river. Cool and cloudy now.

63km, Total 726km

*Sunday 19th May – Day 16*

Chateauneuf to Briare

Dull and overcast in the morning. Nice riding on good surfaces led us to morning pastries at Sully. Very busy here with a huge historical pageant going – everything from Crusaders to WW2. Good riding on levees and country lanes led us to a huge canal bridge over the Loire – boats for the firat time for a long while. We followed the towpath across the bridge to Briare where we relaxed with a beer before finding the campsite. Mainly cloudy, but a bit sun breaking through.

66km, Total 792km


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## RobinS (3 Aug 2019)

*Monday 20th May – Day 17*

Briare to Pouilly sur Loire

Very dull cool morning again. Back to the town end of the Pont du Canal, then followed an old disused canal to Chatillon, where we cross the Loire via a bridge closed to all but cyclist due to roadworks. Follow the river for a bit, then discover two paralel canals, an old one that descended down to the Loire to allow boats to cross, and the 1883 Canal Lateral a la Loire that went across the Pont, this one had some boat traffic. Along this canal for a bit, then back to the river again to Belleville, past another nuclear power station. Easy cycling, but still dull and cool. Along near the river, then the canal again to St Satur. The historic town of Sancerre is up a huge hill so we didn't take that alternative! Found a rather odd supermarket for food shopping, then cross the Loire to camp at Pouilly. We are the only customers, but the facilities are fine.

62km, Total 854km




Deserted campsite!

*Tuesday 21st May – Day 18*

Pouilly to Nevers

Bright sunny morning for a change, after overnight rain. Fast easy riding, mainly on levee roads with a good surface. Down to Givry, then into Nevers to visit Decathlon to get some Optimus (Coleman type) gas. Visited a huge supermarket for food supplies, then cycled through the centre of Nevers to the campsite by the river. It was an early finish, so we had time to walk into town for a beer. A bit of rain at 5pm, but otherwise a decent day.

48km, Total 902km

*Wednesday 22nd May – Day 19*

Nevers to Decize

A fine, warm and sunny day! After our customary good breakfast fry-up we followed the canal, nice and easy riding. Pastry and baguette at Fleur sur Loire, then on to Decize for the supermarket. As the next site seems to be a further 56km, we decide to stop early again, at a good campsite. As it was still sunny we were able to get washing done and dried, and still had time to visit a local bar.

39km, Total 941km


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## RobinS (5 Aug 2019)

Thursday 23rd May – Day 20

Decize to Pierrefitte sur Loire

Fine warm and sunny again. The Loire a Velo route takes a big diversion here, so we followed the D116/D15 directly along the valley to Gannay sur Loire. The roads here that the cycleroute avoids are very quiet by British standards, so no problem at all. From Gannay we cut back to the cycleroute to follow very quite country lane through the hills to Bourgon-Lancy. We ate our lunch by a lake, then visited the supermarket before following a good cyclepath along the route of an old railway line to Diou, then on to the canal towpath to a quiet campsite at Pierrefitte.

60km, Total 1001km

Friday 24th May – Day 21

Pierrefitte to Palinges

Fine sunny day again, even hot! Lovely canalside path to Digoin



Then onwards to another Pont Canal across the quite small River Loire.



This is the end of Stage 2 of the trip – the Loire a Velo. After pastries we set off on Stage 3 toward Basle. We followed the Canal du Centre, which is part of the Tour de Bourgogne a Velo eastwards. At Paray le Monial we stopped for shopping, then off along the canal again. The route then took diversions along devious back roads, so we just followed a quiet D road alongside the canal to Palinges. We felt in need of refreshment, but there was no bar in town, so we checked into the nice campsite, and had a cold beer at the bar there. Very nice site here, as well as the bar it also had very nice hot showers, which were very welcome in the warm weather.

55km, Total 1056km

Saturday 25th May – Day 22

Palinges to Chagny

Weather was being good to us at present, another fine warm day. The EV6 does not really exist in places here, the signposted route takes huge diversions stay on back roads, but as the roads generally are not at all busy by UK standards, and drivers much more considerate we just follow the D road alongside the Canal du Centre. It was easy riding and not much traffic apart from one stretch through Monceau les Mines. We reached the Atlantic/Med watershed at Ecuisse where had our picnic lunch on a stretch of greenway by a lake the feeds the canal. The afternoon was gently downhill, road, then greenway and canal towpath, but with a stiff headwind. We went into Chagny for the supermarket and to a very nice campsite, almost full with lots of Dutch caravans and motorhomes. As it was our 34th wedding anniversary we booked at table at the very smart restaurant for an evening meal.

68km, Total 1124km

Sunday 26th May – Day 23

Chagny to Verdun sur Doubs

Into town through a very big market, to the supermarket for supplies for later (open mornings only on Sundays here). Back to the canal towpath for a fast, very easy run into Chalons sur Saone. An easy route through Chalons, missing the main centre, and out the other side follwing the Saone upstream. Very strong headwind here so when we got to Verdun we stopped for a beer, after which we decided to camp at the site there. Still nice weather apart from the headwind!

62km, Total 1176km

Monday 27th May – Day 24

Verdun to Dole

It was a grey overcast morning, but we were away in good time after a substantial breakfast. It was roads to start with along the River Doubs, then back to the Saone riverbank trail. Pastries in Seurre, then a shorcut along the D976 to Pagny (7k along a quietish roads instead of 16k along the devious route). We then back on the Saone bank, through Losne, some rain, and millions of horrible little black flies. Turned alongside the Canal Rhone au Rhin on mainly good surfaces to Dole for the supermarket and campsite. Weather a bit brighter now, but clouds still threatening.

66km, Total 1242km


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## RobinS (5 Aug 2019)

*Tuesday 28th May – Day 25*

Dole to Besancon

Rained all night, stopped for breakfast but we packed a sodden tent and cycled off in the rain. Nice riding, but terrible weather! Found shelter and ate our lunch during a torrential downpour. The route followed the River Doubs and he Rhone/Rhine canal, very pleasant with a good surface. At Besancon we followed the canal towpath through a 385m long tunnel underneath the huge hill with the citadel above us. The campsite was 5km beyond Besancon, near a large supermarket. Heavy rain showers still during the evening.

68km, Total 1310km




*Wednesday 29th May – Day 26*

Besancon

Janet's birthday, so a rest day! Got washing done, cleaned and fettled the bikes, then in the afternoon took the tram into Besancon. Had a look at the sights, old town, citadel etc, and had a restaurant meal to celebrate the birthday. No rain today.

*Thursday 30th May – Day 27*

Cold but clear when we got up, and fine and sunny by the time we set off. A short distance alongside the main road to rejoin the EV6, then a lovely trail alongside the canal/river. After 10km I ground to a halt! My rear derailleur cable had snapped! Investigation revealed that it had had snapped off right inside the brifter, and there was no way we could free it, not that we had a replacement anyway. We had also discovered that it was yet another French bank holiday!
Internet investigation revealed that there was a Decathlon in Besancon, and it was open! I adjusted the stop so the rear was fixed in the middle of the cassette, which effectively gave me a 3-speed by using just the front changer, but this wasn't too bad on the flat canal-side trail. We cycled back to Besancon, then past it the way we had come, then up a huge hill out of the river valley to the Decathlon, 25km in the wrong direction!
Fortunately Decathlon, with two people, two pairs of pliers, and a special prooger tool were able to get the broken bit of cable out, and fit a new one – with no charge for the labour! I also bought a new pair of SPD shoes, as my old ones were so worn I was just walking on the metal of the cleats, which was somewhat slippy! We got lunch from a stall outside he shopping precinct, then rode the main road back into central Besancon where we stopped for a beer before taking the EV6 back the campsite we had left that morning. Fortunately it had remained sunny all day. Due to the surpise bank holiday we had no fresh food, so we found an “All you can eat” chinese buffet just up the road, which amazingly good food, and very good value.

52km, Total 1362km







*Friday 31st May – Day 28*

Besancon to L'Isle sur le Doubs

After a good nights sleep we had a fine dry morning, tent dry for packing for a change. We followed the pleasant trail along the canal/river, slightly uphill, and with a headwind yet again. We had pastries at Baumes les Dames, and a picnic lunch soon after. The route mainly followed the canal/river, but threw in a few killer hills up the valley sides to keep us on our toes. We stopped at Clerval for a beer, then on to L'Isle sur le Doubs for the supermarket and campsite. Warm clear evening for a change.

65km, Total 1427km


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## RobinS (7 Aug 2019)

The tale continues.....

*Saturday 1st June – Day 29*

L'isle sur le Doubs to Altkirch
Lovely riding along the River Doubs and the Rhone/Rhine canal. Fine sunshine and getting warm. Pastries at Bart, then we left the R. Doubs to just follow the canal, always slightly uphill, always with a headwind! Through Montbelliard, and on to the Med/North Sea watershed at an altitude of 421m. Downhill along the canal, faster, but still a stiff headwind. We stopped for a beer at Dannemarie, before leaving the canal, ascending a killer hill to Asbach, then back down into Altkirch for the supermarket before a final hill up to the campsite. It was 30c now so we had a cool beer before pitching on the very nice campsite, a good welcome, nice showers, and a fine sunny evening.

76km, Total 1503km










*Sunday 2nd June – Day 30*

Altkirch to Huningue

Hot and sunny from th start. Downhill back into town, then all the way back to the canal, big ring stuff for a change! Onwards on easy fast canal-side trails through Mulhouse to the Rhine valley towards Basle. We stopped for a beer at the “Three Countries Bridge” to celebrate the end of Stage 3 of our tour. The nice small campsite was only a short distance from here, and it seemed to be a crossroads for cycle tourers heading in all directions, no other British though. It had been a very hot day again, well over 30c.

55km, Total 1558km





*Monday 3rd June – Day 31*

Huningue to Waldshut

With a hot sunny morning everyone was up early and on their way. We crossed th Three Countries Bridge into Germany and followed that bank upstream for a short while before crossing into Switzerland. On our 2017 tour we had come the other way along the Rhine on the North bank, so planned on following the Swiss South bank this time. The plan was soon twarted by poor signposting and us losing the trail, so we crossed back to the german side and exited Basle via riverside trails and through suburbs. It was very hot, and after a lunch stop we could see a huge storm brewing. The storm was moving towards us from the west, but as it approached it kicked a strong tailwind for us, so we cycled as hard as we could and kept ahead of it for 30km to Waldshut. We stopped for a beer, but the storm never really caught us – probably the first time we have ever actually outrun a storm on our bikes! We found a supermarket for food supplies, and then the very smart campsite.

74km, Total 1632km






*Tuesday 4th June – Day 32*

Waldshut to Wangen

Hot and sunny again. We decided the stick to the north bank, where we alternated with stretches in Germany and Switzerland. The advantage with this is that we could buy all our supplies in the German bits, much cheaper, and did not have to get any more Swiss Francs beyond the few coins we had brought with us. Over a section of high ground, then down a steep descent to Rheinfalls and a scenic picnic lunch. Used the station lift to get back up the huge steep hill to Schaffhausen (CH), then on forest trails across borders repeatedly to Stein am Rhein. This was last town in Switzerland so we had a beer to use our Swiss coinage before cycling back into Germany to the Lidl at Ohringen for supplies. From there it was a short ride to the campsite at Wangen, where we pitched on a grassy beach area. It was very hot all day, but we were camped on the shore of the Unter Bodensee – done with the Rhine already!

74km, Total 1706km


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## RobinS (9 Aug 2019)

*Wednesday 5th June – Day 33*

Wangen to Orsingen

Hot and sunny again. Nice but fairly hilly alongside the Untersee, through small villages, and a nice shoreline to Radolzfell, a fair size town where we left the lake shore. Lost the cycleroute here, but managed to pick it up again just outside town as we headed inland. Very hilly, very hot, and very few shops! There was a supermarket just outside the “Camping and Ferienplatze” in Orsingen, and as it was so hot, and the site had a swimming pool, washing machine and restaurant/bar we decided to stop early. Had a leisurely afternoon, doing washing, lounging in the sun, followed by a nice meal in the restaurant.

35km, Total 1741km





*Thursday 6th June – Day 34*

Orsingen to Tuttlingen

Cool and cloudy this morning. Bought lunch at the supermarket as we left, then headed off into the hills! Up, up, and more up! Stopped for lunch at a picnic area at 783m altitude. It was 13c, 20c colder than yesterday, but with the hills to contend with that was a good job.




After lunch yet more uphill, until we topped out at 862m, by a small ski area.




Next was a 70km/h downhill into Tuttlingen and the River Danube – end of Stage 4 of our trip.




It came on to rain for while so we stopped for a beer in town. When the rain stopped we went to find the “Zeltplatze” - no proper campsite here, but a small hedged lawn in the corner of the town park, toilets and showers accessed by means of a key obtained from the swimming pool reception – once key deposit was returned it only cost 5euro for the night. I got supplies from a slightly scabby supermarket while Janet sorted the tent. Now overcast and cold, but dry. Very short distance today again, due this time to the huge hill!

33km, Total 1774km

*Friday 7th June – Day 35*

Tuttlingen to Sigmarinen

The day dawned bright and sunny and we soon packed away, returned the key to the swimming pool, and set off on Stage 5, down the Danube. Stopped at another supermarket on the edge of town to return recycling and buy pastries and lunch stuff. Lovely riding down the valley, off road, some tarmac, but mainly dirt/grit trails. Quite hilly. The Danube is small and fast flowing here, and the valley winds between limestone crags, best scenery of the trip so far.








The lovely weather helped as well, fine and sunny, 28c. Stop for a beer at the top of a hill 4km before Sigmarinen, then a fast downhill straight to the campsite, complete with bar/restaurant, and a supermarket nearby, perfect with a pitch by the river. Everywhere pretty busy as it is now the local half term holiday.

58km, Total 1832km

*Saturday 8th June – Day 36*

Sigmarinen to Munderkingen

Sunny but cool start. Good trails and unusually a tailwind led to fast riding. Some hills but the fast bits outweighed those. Into Munderkingen feeling thirsty, but almost everywhere was shut, and the centre of town dug up with roadworks! Finally found a locals bar for a beer or two, then an Edeka supermarket for food supplies before making our way to the municipal campsite just outside town. It was a nice spot, unattended but OK toilets etc, and the only people staying were cycle tourers. During the evening someone came round to collect the princely sum of 7euros.

62km, Total 1894km


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## RobinS (9 Aug 2019)

*Sunday 9th June – Day 37*

Munderkingen to Leidhiem

Fine sunny morning, and with the sun on the tent forcing us out early we were away by 9am. The familiar headwind was back again today, so harder work. Good tarmac trails led us towards Ulm, but as it was a Sunday everything was closed. Through Ulm on a riverside cycletrail, lots of pedestrians and cyclists out enjoying the nice weather. Across the river and into a forest on a gravel trail that led us to Leidhiem. After a beer stop we cycled a further 3km to a big farm holiday campsite. Loads of people, mainly families camping, as it is half term holidays. Came on to a bit of rain after pitching, so as we had no fresh food we had Currywurst and chips, with a beer in the snack bar.

72km, Total 1966km.

*Monday 10th June – Day 38*

Leidhiem to Donauworth

Very wet overnight, and still raining in the morning so we were a bit late away, packing a very wet tent.
It rained as we cycled through the forest on unsurfaced trails, before emerging onto tarmac. Almost everything was closed as it was a bank holiday, but we found a bakery/cafe to buy pastries and ready made sandwiches for lunch – our food stocks are low on Mondays! Weather was better in the afternoon as we followed a tarmac trail alongside the B16 all the way to Donauworth. We camped at the Canoe Club, where we got beer from a vending machine. It was a very wet evening, so as we had no fresh food still we got a pizza in town. Very nice pitch by the river, but we did suffer mosquitoes!

66km, Total 2032km





*Tuesday 11th June – Day 39*

Donauworth to Neuburg

Rained heavily all night, but it had stopped by morning. Mix of very hilly tarmac trails near the road, and flat gravel trails through the forest. Janet caught a stick in her front wheel which stopped her dead, and smashed one of the mounting struts of her front mudguard. We managed to bend everthing back into place so the wheel would go round, and did a bodge repair with zip ties and elastoplast! This actually lasted all the way home.




There were lots of mosquitoes out after the rain, and as we were feeling pretty tired we stopped early at the Neuberg “Ruderclub”.

42km, Total 2074km

*Wednesday 12th June – Day 40*

Neuberg

As the Ruderclub was a really nice place to stay, and we were feeling tired we had a rest day, enabling us to get washing done and had a look around town. It was dull and cloudy, and very cool in the evening, which at lest kept the mosquitoes away.

*Thursday 13th June – Day 41*

Neuberg to Neustadt

Rain overnight, but it was fine by morning. Took an unsurfaced trail out of town. This led onto tarmac by the main road, so we took an alternative along the river into Ingoldistadt. Went off route to Decathlon to restock with gas – but they had sold out! We rode out town on a nice trail on the wrong side of the Donau, eventually rejoining the route on mixed trails to Neustadt. Choice of supermarkets, and a nice bar for a couple of beers in town, then on to the campsite, open and sunny but with superb facilities and very good showers. Hot sunny evening, but as the sun got low millions of mosquitoes came out.

59km, Total 2133km


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## RobinS (10 Aug 2019)

*Friday 14th June – Day 42*

Neustadt to Regensburg

After the night of the million mosquitoes the morning ws fine, sunny and mozzie-free. The route took a long-winded way, trying to stay on cycle paths where possible, but made progress onwards slow. 6km before Kelhiem we had a choice, climb a huge hill to avoid the narrow river gorge, or take a boat. We had met some New Zealanders coming the other way, and they had described the hilly stretch as “Mosquito hill”, as it was heavily wooded and sheltered, so the boat it was! The “Schiffe” gave us a very pleasant boat ride through a narrow gorge, between steep limestone cliffs. There was even time for a beer on board! 
















After Kelhiem it was a mix of tarmac and grit surfaces all the way to Regensburg. We camped at the Canoe Club and visited a nearby supermarket for supplies. It was overcast and very humid by evening, which brought the mozzies out in force again.

59km, Total 2192km

*Saturday 15th June – Day 43*

Regensburg to Straubing

Hot and humid day. After breakfast we rode into Regensburg to the Decathlon to restock on gas – successfully this time. We soon found our way to the route again, fast and easy, with that rarest of luxuries, a tailwind. It was mainly tarmac off-road trails, but we had an issue near Worth as the trail was closed for resurfacing, and we missed the diversion somewhere. A few kilometers along the road soon had us back on track. It was very hot, so we went into Straubing for a cold beer, and stocked up at the nearby Rewe supermarket.




It was then a few kilometers out to “Camping Stadt Straubing”, a good shower, application of mozzie “after-bite” (which we had bought at an Apotheke in Straubing), and application of more repellant.

59km, Total 2251km

*Sunday 16th June – Day 44*

Straubing to Vilshofen

Heavy rain overnight again, it had stopped by morning, but still cool and cloudy so packed the tent away very wet. A decent tarmac trail behind the floodbank to start with, then lots of devious diversions on variable surfaces. We ate lunch in a very fancy bus shelter (it even had wi-fi!) in a small town square. Next came a small ferry across the Donau.




Then mainly good surfaces with a slight tailwind all the way to Vilshofen. Pitched at the camping at the Pleasure Boat Harbour, very nice and only 5euros! Walked across the bridge into town for a beer. There was a big festival of some sort going on, with loads of food stalls, but as we had perishables to eat at the campsite we couldn't partake.

81km, Total 2332km




Swans and Cygnets on the campsite.


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## RobinS (12 Aug 2019)

*Monday 17th June – Day 45*

Vilshofen to Engelharzell (Austria)

Slight early morning mist burned off by 8am, leading to a warm and sunny day. Straight on to the cycleroute from the campsite, then a good surface along the North Bank all the way to Passau, then crossed over and through the city stuff, lots of cruise liners, and loads of cyclists, many in large guided groups.




Soon crossed back to the North Bank and on to Obernzell for the supermarket and some beers. “International” ferry back to the south side, which was now Austria.




First campsite looked a bit dismal (mainly permanent caravans) so we carried on to Engelharzel, where we camped by the outdoor pool, as all the conventional pitches were full.

50km, Total 2382km

*Tuesday 18th June – Day 46*

Engelharzell to Feldkirchen am Donau

Fine warm morning. Into Engelhartzell to stock up on lunch supplies, then took a ferry back to the North Bank. Fine scenic riding, into a stiff headwind led us to a “3 ferry option” point. We decided to take the ferry that took us a bit further along the more scenic North Bank, hopping past a section where the cliffs went straight down into the water.




Another scenic 15km led us to another ferry – we ate our picnic lunch while the ferryman had his break, then we were ferried past another section of vertical cliffs. Carried on riding the North Bank until the valley opened out. Stopped in Feldkirchen for a cold beer, as it was now very hot, then the supermarket and on to the campsite where we had a fine sunny evening.

47km, Total 2429km

*Wednesday 19th June – Day 47*

Feldkirchen to Au an der Donau

Hot and sunny again. Found our way between a series of bathing lakes and back to the cycleway along the river. A good trail, got pastries and some lunch supplies just before Linz. The route followed the North Bank past Linz until it was closed due construction work for a new bridge. We lost the diversion somewhere in the roadworks, so exited the town on a busy road. We soon found the route again outside town, and followed good tarmac along the river. Across at a lock/barrage/hydro plant, and across farmland before regaining the South Bank in time for a ferry to Mauthausen on the North Bank. It was very hot so we stopped for a cold beer before finding the supermaket.




Then it was just a few more km to a nice campsite at Au an der Donau, where they had an onsite bar for more cold beer!

59km, Total 2488km

*Thursday 20th June – Day 48*

Au an der Donau

A rest day. Washed clothes, very hot they dried quickly. Cleaned the bikes and lubed drivetrains. Beer and food at the site bar. Huge storm in the evening.




Inner tube vending machine by the trail near the campsite.


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## RobinS (14 Aug 2019)

The tour continues......

*Friday 21st June – Day 49*

Au to Emmersdorf

The rain had stopped by morning, and we were away by about 9am. Fast easy riding along the North Bank led to Grein where we stopped at the Hofer (Austrian Aldi) for pastries and lunch supplies. Next we took a ferry across to the South Bank, away from the main road and railway. 




Nice riding to Ybbs, then on to Polkarn for the supermarket for dinner supplies and a beer stop. Finally along the South Bank to a “Kraftwerk” (hydro power station and barrage) where we crossed back to the North side and into Emmersdorf for the campsite. Hot and sunny all day.

81km, Total 2569km

*Saturday 22nd June – Day 50*

Emmersdorf to Tulln

Across a big bridge to the South Bank, in the rain! Fast easy trails, but dismal wet weather all morning. Got snacks and lunch food at Mauten, then the weather improved a bit. Up to Mauten it was very scenic, afterwards flat bankside trails. On through Krems to Tulln. Diversions on the trail so took the road into town for the Hofer, then into the centre for a beer or 3 accompanied by live music – some sort of festival was on. Final couple of kilometres to the very busy campsite, with weather again dismal and overcast.

82km, Total 2651km

*Sunday 23rd June – Day 51*

Tulln to Vienna

Onto the cyclepath in the rain again, very heavy at times. Along the river, then alongside the railway to Vienna. Weather was terrible. The route avoided the city centre by following alongside the Neue Donau, but there were no shops, bars or restaurants! Getting hungry (and very wet!) so we crossed to the long island between the two parts of the Danube where the Donau Festival was going on. We found a found a food stall with undercover seating while the local fire service pumped floodwater away! We went on to the campsite in a brief break in the downpour. Because of the festival the tent field was fully booked, and all they could offer was a really scabby narrow area squeezed between the back of the faclities and the perimeter fence and scruffy undergrowth. We didn't have much choice, but this was the worst pitch of the trip so far by a wide margin, though the actual facilities were very smart. We ventured out to a nearby “Beach Bar” for some beers, and dinner in torrential rain.

41km, Total 2692km





*Monday 24th June – Day 52*

Vienna to Bratislava (Slovakia)

The weather was better by morning. We had wanted to stay a couple of nights to visit Vienna, but with just the scabby pitch available to us we decided to move on. We packed away with stuff drying as we did so, leaving kit just a bit damp round the edges. We followed fast flood bank tarmac trail, then a diversion on rough track, round fields, and along busy roads until we crossed a huge bridge across to the South Bank. We had lunch at Hainburg, then it was uphill away from the river before descending down to the Slovak border. 




A rather rougher floodbank road led to Bratislava, where we crossed another huge bridge into the centre where we had a beer in the Old Town. 




The only campsite was outside of the city, so to finish we had a manic 10km dash on very busy chaotic roads to the campsite just beyond a huge Tesco Extra. The campsite was initially unprepossessing, with a derelict hotel and dire security warnings, but once established it was actually quite nice, with a very cheap outdoor bar/restaurant – but with only Slovak menu, and no English spoken! We went to the Tesco for supplies, which was a strange combination of the completely familiar and the utterly incomprehensible! It had remained fine and sunny all day, but stayed humid.

75km, Total 2667km


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## RobinS (15 Aug 2019)

*Tuesday 25th June – Day 53*

Bratislava

Today was to be a rest day to see the tourist sights of Bratislava, but first we had to plan the return home. Over the last days we had been feeling that we were a very long way from home, day 52 we were still “going” as it were. Bratislava had always been our primary target, and the original plan was to turn left, and join the Vienna to Prague greenway. I had a map of this route, 466km from Vienna to Prague, but I had recently looked at it more carefully and discovered that that 466km included no less than 5846m of ascent/descent. That's like crossing the Alps twice! Plan B was required.

It was a fine, hot, sunny morning, and we walked from the campsite to a nearby tram stop where we bought “all day” tickets. That tram took towards the centre, and one change got us to Bratislava station. Fortunately the ticket salesperson understood a reasonable amount of English, and we had soon purchased tickets and reservations for us and our bikes for the 12:10 train to Prague the following day.

That sorted we took the tram to the Old Town, where we looked around the sights, had a nice lunch in a tourist restaurant (quite pricey), and a couple of beers in a back street bar where it was really cheap just 1.50 euro for 0.5l. Later in the afternoon we returned to the campsite, where we had some even cheaper beers at the site bar.








*Wednesday 26th June – Day 54*

Bratislava to Prague

It was very hot again, and we rode back into Bratislava, mainly on “cycle enabled” pavements, not marked as cycle routes, but roughly dropped kerbs, to avoid the manic traffic. We got to the station in time for a beer and a sandwich before making our way to the designated platform. It turned out that our train was actually the one from Budapest to Prague, but it was 45 minutes late into Bratislava. It was a “Euro Cities” train, and as it had vertical hanging bike racks we had to unload everything on embarkation. By the time we reached Prague the train was over 1.5 hours late, so by the time we had managed to find a stair-free way out of the station, and got some Czech crowns from an ATM it was well after 6pm. We didn't have a proper map for this stage, just a tourist brochure of the Elbe cycle route with some tiny sketch maps, so it was nerve wracking riding the mad roads and traffic of Prague until we managed to find the Eurovelo 7 which we followed out of the city. It was 10km to “River Camping”, a very nice small site where we soon pitched and went in search of food. The nearby restaurant had an event on so no food available, a snack bar had closed for the evening, so it was back to the site to eat our emergency Tuna and Pasta, washed down with a couple of beers from the reception fridge.

18km, Total 2785km

*Thursday 27th June – Day 55*

Prague to Melnik

It was hot and sunny, but less humid today, so we delayed departure to allow us to air our kit properly, and to do about the third repair to one of our chairs.
A fast easy cycleroute led us north alongside the River Vltava, then it was up huge hill, and across farmland on very potholed roads before a great, smooth, 3km downhill back to the river. After a couple of kilometers we bought some lunch supplies, then rode a section of technical singletrack before coming back onto roads. Next was a ferry across the Vltava – pedestrians and cycles only, powered only by the current.




Onwards on good trail until a bridge was closed and we were diverted along a rough track. This led to a temporary free ferry that took us across the Elbe to Melnik.




We found a supermarket to restock with food, went up a big hill to the old town centre for a couple of beers, then freewheeled back down to the campsite. It was a nice site with good facilities, excellent hot showers. It was still 29c at 7:30pm but very low humidity, so after a shower we felt dry for the first time for days.

54km, Total 2839km

*Friday 28th June – Day 56*

Melnik to Litomerice

Fine, dry, sunny morning. We found our way out of time and across the Elbe bridge to pick up the Elbe cycleroute, just following our sketch map. It was signed as “Route 2” here. It was a good smooth cyclepath to start, but after fighting easterly headwind threequarters of the way across Europe to Bratislava we now had a stiff North Westerly headwind to contend with. We had a road section, then back on cycletrails to Rodnice where we got pastries and lunch supplies. Crossed a bridge and on to Kresnice where we ate lunch, then a section of “MTB Trail”. Back on tarmac we had a beer stop at the bar of a wakeboarding centre – beer is very cheap in the Czech Republic.




The last stretch led us easily to Litomerice and the Autocamp. After pitching our tent we ventured into town to get some more crowns, and had a beer in town.

51km, Total 2890km

If anyone has any question about the trip so far don't hesitate to ask....


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## RobinS (16 Aug 2019)

*Saturday 29th June – Day 57*

Litomerice to Decin

Onwards through the Czech Republic we encountered fast tarmac trails, potholed roads, rough tarmac, dirt tracks and rubble! Nice scenery, some hills, and hot and sunny. 





Through Usti, then stopped for a cooling beer, but they didn't do food, so it was on into Decin for a late lunch at a roadside snack bar. The campsite was pretty much underneath a main road flyover, but surprisingly the noise was not too intrusive. A short ride to supermarket for supplies, then relaxed in the 35c temperatures.

56km, Total 2946km

*Sunday 30th June – Day 58*

Decin to Heidenau (D)

Hot and sunny again. A decent trail along the Elbe led between scenic sandstone towers, and then after 15km we crossed the border into Germany. 




This area, and for a long while to come used to be in East Germany, and the character was noticeably different to the parts of Germany we had previously crossed – more austere, derelict factories, and dull brown towns and villages. We stopped at a biergarten, for beer and sausages, sitting in the shade as it was very hot. It was round about here we noticed that Janet's rear wheel rim was starting to break up around a spoke, the potholes and rubble of the Czech Repulic had taken their toll! 




We dropped into a cycle repair shop in Pirna that was open on the Sunday, they didn't have a suitable replacement wheel, but suggested a shop in Dresden for the next day who would be able to help. We carried on to the campsite at Heidenau, just short of Dresden. It was 40c now so we were glad of an early finish, and there was a nice restaurant nearby for dinner, as due to it being Sunday we had no fresh food.

56km, Total 3002km

*Monday 1st July – Day 59*

Heidenau/Dresden

On another hot and sunny morning we rode light into the south side of Dresden to “Fahrrad XXL Bicycle Emporium”. It was the largest bike shop I have ever seen, with hundreds of bikes for sale, as well as all the accessories, and a repair workshop. It even had a marked out test ride circuit inside the shop! We took Janet's bike in, one look to establish what was needed, ten speed, disc compatible wheel, and immediately took a suitable wheel off the rack. I asked if they could fit it, and they were most apologetic that it would be an hour. The shop was so large that we had plenty to look at while we waited for them to swap all the components across. Janet also took the opportunity to buy a new pair of cycle shoes, as hers had pretty worn through on the soles. I also got a new bell, as mine had disintegrated on the train to Prague, and they are pretty much essential on the shared use trails. 




We were soon on the road back to the campsite, where Janet got some washing done – hot and sunny so everything dried quickly, and I went to a supermarket for supplies. All that done we still had time to visit a biergarten by the Elbe, relaxing in the hot sunshine.

21km, Total 3023km

*Tuesday 2nd July – Day 60*

Heidenau to Riesa

A nice sunny morning, but a stiff breeze, against us as usual! An easy trail led to Dresden, where we passed through the city easily on a riverside trail along the South Bank. 




Onwards into an ever stronger headwind with good tarmac interspersed with cobbles. There was a diversion up a big hill, and the descent was on cobbles all the way back to the river – Janet was glad she had a new wheel! Through Meissen, and on, with yet more cobbles to Riesa for a supermarket stockup, a beer at a “Beach Bar”, and to camp at the “Wassersportsverien” (Water Sports Club). It had been hot and sunny all day, but we were wind-blasted in the ferocious headwind.

73km, Total 3096km

*Wednesday 3rd July – Day 61*

Riesa to Prettin

Set off in fine sunshine, not to hot. We bought pastries and lunch supplies before leaving Riesa. We then followed the river for a while, before the trail zig-zagged around fields. Tarmac surface, except cobbles through every village. Strong headwind again. After a road stretch we crossed the Elbe at Torgau, then a mixture of roads and trails led us to Prettin. There was a supermarket for supplies, but apart from that the town was deserted. On a further couple of kilometres to the campsite by a bathing lake, which was also almost deserted, but did have a bar for a beer while waiting for the reception to open. A fine sunny day, but the strong headwind was becoming quite wearing.

75km, Total 3171km


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## RobinS (17 Aug 2019)

*Thursday 4th July – Day 62*

Prettin to Lutherstadt Wittenberg

The route out of Prettin was very poorly marked and after taking a wrong turn somewhere we ended up cycling across fields. We made it to the floodbank and followed that for a while, then a couple of farm workers confirmed we were going in the right direction. A couple of kilometres further and we rejoined the route, on roads and trails, all over the place. No food shops until Esther, then it was a better trail. We saw the River Elbe only briefly before reaching Lutherstadt by 2pm. 




We had a look around the old town – busy with tourists due to it's connection with Martin Luther. 




We had a couple of beers at a bar with an Irish bartender, before returning to the Ruderclub to camp on a lush lawn by the river. Sunny all day but not too hot.

55km, Total 3226km

*Friday 5th July – Day 63*

Lutherstadt to Aken

Cool and overcast morning. A good trail led out of town. As we went downstream we passed a moored Viking River Cruises vessel, so assumed there would be boat traffic from now onwards – to be proved wrong, the ship must have reached Lutherstadt when river levels were much higher than now, as there was not enough water for navigation for hundreds of kilometres yet. We followed nice trails through forests and parkland, a very strong headwind, but at least sheltered in the forest. 
We stopped for lunch in Dessau, then more nice trails through parkland, though every village and town was still cobbles! Soon into Aken (Elbe) for the Pennymarkt – a grim, dour, East German town, we managed to find a bar by the river for a beer, then to a riverside “BootsVerleih” camping. By evening it had got out fine and sunny.

62km, Total 3288km





*Saturday 6th July – Day 64*

Aken to Sonnebeck

A Good trail led along the embankment, into a stiff headwind as usual, along to a ferry at Breitenhagen, but unfortunately the ferry was closed! We made a 7km diversion to a ferry across a tributary, the River Saale at Gross Rosenburg, but this ferry was also closed due to low water levels. A further 14km diversion led to a bridge across the Saale at Calbe, but as we approached large signs warned that the bridge was closed, directing traffic to another bridge a firther 10km off route! We decided to have a look at the “closed” bridge, and as we approached a local cycled out of his way to tell us that the bridge was OK for cyclists, just closed to cars, so we could cross. By now we were a long way off route, still navigating by our sketch map, so we took the main road direct to Schonebeck. Strong headwinds all day again, and came on to rain in the evening.

59km, Total 3347km

*Sunday 7th July – Day 65*

Sonnebeck to Bittkau

The rain had stopped by morning, but it was cool and grey as we followed a good trail towards Magdeburg. Back alleys and cobbles led through suburbs, then back onto a good trail along the river through the city. A few boats here, but limited navigation, as there was a stretch of white water through the city! We took a big bridge to the East Bank, then nice riding (despite the strong headwind) through parkland out of town to where the Mittelland Canal crossed the river. We went along the canal for a bit, then trails, sometime quite rough to a ferry back to the West Bank at Rogatz. 




Fast trails then led to the campsite at Bittkau.

74km, Total 3421km

*Monday 8th July – Day 66*

Bittkau to Havelberg

It was cool and cloudy as we cycled north, on trails across fields, roadsides, into a very strong headwind yet again. We got to Tangermunde for elevenses, an old medieval, and slightly derelict town. Further along good trails, then a detour away from the river, very windy with nasty rain squalls now. Back to the river, and a ferry across to Sandau, then the last stretch to Havelberg in heavy rain.




We took refuge in a bar, before cycling up a big hill to the supermarket. 




Back down to the campsite for a rather cool evening.

64km, Total 3485km

*Tuesday 9th July – Day 67*

Havelberg

Since the easy day near Dresden when we sorted Janet's wheel a week ago we had been fighting a fierce headwind all the way – almost 500km of it, so we really needed a rest. Got some washing done, restocked at the supermarket, had a look around the rather dull and cheerless town. Dull and cool weather, with a few spots of rain.

6km, Total 3491km

*Wednesday 10th July – Day 68*

Havelberg to Gartow

Dull, cold, grey day, and still the ferocious headwind blew! Roads to Quitzobel, then onto the floodbank into the teeth of a gale for the next 15km. More roads and floodbanks led to Wittenberge, we went into town to find lunch, but it was a desolate dead place, half derelict. We eventually got lunch at a kebab shop, which actually was pretty good. Back out of town and across a very long and very bumpy railway bridge over the river. More concrete roads, pavers, and cobbles led us out of the former East Germany back to the West. We stopped for a drink at a nice bar in Schnackenburg before the last stretch to Gartow.




The two supermarkets there were closed, as the whole town was suffering a power outage, so it was off to the rather smart camping where we ate our emergency Tuna and Pasta.

77km, Total 3568km


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## RobinS (19 Aug 2019)

*Thursday 11th July – Day 69*

Gartow to Alt Garge

Fine dry sunny morning. Went to supermarket in Gartow first off to get pastries and food for lunch, then took the road to Gurleben where we rejoined the cycleroute. It was roadside trails to start with, then floodbank pavers. We stopped for our lunch picnic just before Hitzacker. It was a liveyly town, and we went to the Lidl for dinner supplies. A rough trail near the river led out of town, then some roads and hills, then a rough unrideable uphill through a forest, the first half of the downhill was virtually unrideable as well! Smooth roads then led the rest of the way back down to the river at Drethem. We were on the lookout for a bar, but everywhere was pretty dead, so it was to Alt Garge, and up a big hill to the campsite. Came on to a bit of rain after pitching.

69km, Total 3637km





Young storks on their nest by the trail

*Friday 12th July – Day 70*

Alt Garge to Stove

It rained all night, but we had a brief dry spell for breakfast and packing away. Back down the big hill and trail to Bleckede where we had a truly torrential downpour, sheltered at a bakery for a bit, but even with waterproof jackets we were completely soaked. On along the floodbanks with frequent heavy showers. Stopped for a supermarket at Marschact, then the campsite at Stove. Stopped fairly early as it was the last site before Hamburg, and the city was going take a while to traverse.

52km, Total 3689km

*Saturday 13th July – Day 71*

Stove to Mittelnkirchen

Dull but dry. Fast easy trails, until the very familiar headwind got up yet again. At Hoopte we took a ferry across the Elbe to the North Bank. 




Then there was a fairly sheltered dead straight trail between trees across marshland into Hamburg. We followed city cycleways, the walked along the very busy and crowded river promenade to find the correct ferry. It was absolutely heaving, with hundreds of people waiting for ferries. I worked out how to buy tickets from the machine, and the ferry soon arrived, but there were far too many people to board. As we waited for the next ferry we maneuvered our bikes to try to stop the crowds pushing past, and we managed to get on the next one. 




This took us downstream for a way, then dropped us on the South Bank at Finkenwerder. In the last couple of days the Elbe had gone from a river for small boats only, to the large port for ocean-going ships here. We stopped for a late lunch at a kebab shop in Finkenwerder then attempted to follow the trail onwards. We lost it somewhere, and ended up cycling around in a circle, adding 8km to the day! Eventually we found the correct route, alongside a main road past the Airbus Factory/Airfield and on to Jork where we stopped at a supermarket. On again, and we stopped at the first available supermarket at Mittenkirchen, after a quite stressful day. It didn't help that it was still dull and grey as well.

69km, Total 3758km

*Sunday 14th July – Day 72*

Mittenkirchen to Krautsand

Dull, grey and cool, and very drizzly. A trail between houses along the top of a floodbank led back to the Elbe at Grunendeich. It was then along river floodbanks before heading inland near Stade. Back towards the river, with views of huge ocean-going container ships across the fields, and along to Krautsand. 




We stopped for a couple of beers at an Umbrella/Beach bar, and the weather was so cold and damp that they put the heaters on for us! Then it was just a short ride to the campsite by the lighthouse, good showers, but weather still cold and damp. Only a short day as the next campsite is a fair bit further.

39km, Total 3797km

*Monday 15th July – Day 73*

Krautsand to Cuxhaven Duhnen

Dull grey and cold again, coldest day of the entire trip. Alongside the floodbank, into a strong wind as usual, and through lots of gates across the trail. To Freiburg for pastries and lunch supplies. Alondside a road for while, then to an opening bridge, which was open for boats, but didn't close to allow traffic to pass at all on Mondays! Back the way we came for a couple of km (twice as fast going the other way!), then around a 10km diversion. Roadside cyclepath for a while, then the usual trail alongside the floodbank through Otterndorf. Final stretch into Cuxhaven was right down by the shore of the estuary, into the teeth of a howling gale. 




Cuxhaven was the finish of the coverage of our pamphlet sketch map of the Elbe route, which along with largely decent signposting had served us well for the last 1100km from Prague, so we detoured into town to find a bookshop for the next stretch – we managed to get a Kompass guide to the NordseeKusten Radweg 1, which would see us to the border of the Netherlands, though it was written for going the other way. Janet's rear tyre had been showing the puncture protection layer for the last few hundred km, so we tried to get a new one, but no success in the two shops we tried. Onwards into the gale to the headland at KugelBake – the North Sea and finish of the Elbe Cycleroute, and this stage of our trip. After a couple of photos, while holding our bikes so they didn't blow over, and we were off in search of a campsite. 









Cuxhaven is a holiday resort, and it was now school holiday time for the whole of Germany, and the Netherlands, so it was really busy. The first site we tried was completely full, and they suggested we try the next site, just 400m down the road. This one was also full, and when I asked if they could suggest where we might try the answer was “Nein”! On a short distance further, and we turned inland a bit for the next site. At reception we were told they were completely full, but there was space behind the washroom if it was OK for us. After the really scabby pitch we had ben given in Vienna in similar circumstances we were sceptical, but we were sent to look at before deciding, and were pleased to see nice area of lawn, three times as big as we needed, even with a picnic table under shelter near the washing up sinks. It was still cold and windy so we walked into the seaside resort for a couple of indoor beers before returning to the campsite to cook dinner at our picnic table.

79km, Total 3876km


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## RobinS (19 Aug 2019)

*Tuesday 16th July – Day 74*

Cuxhaven to Nordkernen

The start of the next stage of our tour, utilising the part of the North Sea Coast route. A showery, blowy, and cold morning as we packed away. There was an Aldi near the site so we went there first to stock up supplies for the whole day. Then it was out of the resort along sea walls, as we had now turned towards the South-West the North-Westerly gale still was just a crosswind for a while. We then went through a forest, more pleasantly sheltered but poor suface. Back on tarmac we turn more to the south, so the strong wind is at our backs for the first time in over 1000km! This gave us a very fast run into Bremerhaven, straight through the middle of the container port, bizarrely passing customs control points twice. In the city we got to the ferry across the River Weser and crossed the choppy windswept estuary. 




After the campsite issues at Cuxhaven we decided to improve our odds by going inland away from the beach resorts to camp, so we went 10km inland along the Weser cycleroute to camp just through Nordkernen. Still cool, but less wet now.

64km, Total 3940km

*Wednesday 17th July – Day 75*

Nordkernen to Schorten

Dull and grey again, but at least not raining! Had to do a repair to Janet's airbed so a bit late away. Cut across the marshes, following roads and rough tracks to rejoin the coast route heading for Varel. Into town for the supermarket to stock up food supplies, then on along the coast behind floodbanks. We diverted inland across the marshes again, away from the coast route and the crowds to Schorten for a beer, and on to the campsite. The wind had finally died and the sun came out!

73km, Total 4033lm

*Thursday 18th July – Day 76*

Schorten / Jever

It was a fine warm dry day for a change so we decided on a rest day to do our washing and stuff. Swapped the worn out tyre from the rear of Janet's bike onto the front of mine, and my less worn front onto her rear in the hope this would see us home. We cycled into Jever for a nice lunch and a couple of beers, and to restock on gas canisters, and bought a map to help with the “off the coast route” bits we were taking. 




It was dry all day, but clouded over into the evening and then came on to heavy rain overnight.

8km, Total 4041km

*Friday 19th July – Day 77*

Schorten to Leer

A fine, sunny and warm day. The coast route, unsurprisingly follows the coast, which here is the long way round, and with the crowds there, and full campsites we decided to cut across country. We found nice cycletrails, mainly off-road with variable surfaces, and some very quiet roads. Good riding into a light headwind (wind had now gone round to a South-Westerly, just to spite us!). Visited a supermarket in Leer, then just across the River Emms to a campsite at the marina. After pitching we had a couple of beers in the slightly odd campsite bar.

70km, Total 4111km

*Saturday 20th July – Day 78*

Leer to Appinghem (NL)

The day started fine and dry. We cycled up the River Emms for a while, against a very strong wind to Weener, then headed west to the Netherlands border. Our map and guide ran out here (they don't sell Dutch maps or guides in Germany), so we followed signs for the Waddensee cycle route. Flat fen roads, into a strong wind yet again. We had a picnic lunch, then it clouded over and as we rode into Delfijl it was heavy rain. Sheltered briefly in a supermarket as we did our shopping, then on towards a campsite. The first small farm site looked dismal – overgrown, neglected and poor facilities and little sign of life so we cycled a bit further, away from the coast to Camper Eckerstein just beyond Appinghem. The evening was largely fine, but massive storm clouds were threateningly close.

75km, Total 4186km

*Sunday 21st July – Day 79*

Appinghem to Stroobos

All the overnight storms had missed us, and morning was fine and sunny, though with lots of dew so the tent was pretty wet. I took a photo on my phone of a cycleroute map at the campsite before departure, and as we cycled we took further photos of roadside maps to use for navigation until we could buy something better (but not on a Sunday!)




We followed good cyclepaths, and quiet roads, navigating by numbers from one “Knoopunt” to the next. Bakeries all closed so we got a burger for lunch in Groningen. The trail onwards led along a canal, into a ferocious headwind yet again. We stopped quite early as we were getting really fed up fighting continuous strong headwinds, but at least it stayed dry today. We had a nice meal in the site restaurant, as we had no fresh food.

58km, Total 4244km






*Monday 22nd July – Day 80*

Stroobos to Dienum

It was a dry night, but the morning was grey and very windy. We were still navigating by numbers, but knew when we were going the right way, as it meant cycling straight into a howling gale. In Bergum we found a bookshop and bought an atlas of all the cycleroutes in the Netherlands, so at least we knew where we were going now. On along straight, exposed trails, into the teeth of the gale to Leuwarden and the supermarket, then on to the campsite at Dienum. A short distance again today because of the unremitting headwind.

48km, Total 4292km


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## RobinS (20 Aug 2019)

*Tuesday 23rd July – Day 81*

Dienum to Pingjum

Fine, dry, warm and sunny. A headwind still, but lighter this morning. Flat fenland trails, another ferry. 




Pastries at Dronryp, more nice trails and another ferry, electric solar powered this time. Through Franeker, on to Harlingen, picnic lunch and a few beers in the hot sunshine by the sea. 




Down the Waddensee floodbank for a while, then diverted inland on fenland trails to a quiet mini-camping near Pingjum. Remained warm and sunny day, and this small site had free showers, unusual in the Netherlands and northern Germany. We stopped quite short today as the next stretch is the Afsluitdijk – the Ijsselmeer Dam, 32km long, and some of it by bus, so it could take some time.

46km, Total 4338km





Old and new wind technology

*Wednesday 24th July – Day 82*

Pingjum to Oudesluis (Anna Pawlowna)

Hot and sunny from the start. Easy riding to the start of the Afsluitdijk. The works going on were obvious from the start, and we were diverted to a low level trail near the freshwater side for the first few km, before being directed into a car park. A three year program is underway to raise the height of the dyke by 2 meters along it's whole 32km length, and this has caused the cycle route to be closed, the motorway is still open, but with some disruption. We had to wait 45 minutes for the bus as the driver was on a break. It was advertised as running every 30 minutes, taking 15 bikes, but unfortunately the usual adapted bus was off the road, and we had a normal single decker. Only seven bikes were waiting, so they were strapped in between the seats, and a 30 minute ride took us the drop off point near Den Oever. At the drop off it was absolute chaos, over 40 cyclists waiting with bikes, tandems, trailers, recumbents etc, some of whom had already been there for over 2 hours, and it was a right melee with people trying to shove their bikes aboard before we had even unloaded ours!
We soon reloaded our kit and cycled away from the impending riot into Den Oever to get lunch at a bakery. We were then off on the LF10 to Anna Pawlowna for the supermarket. It was then just a short ride to to Oudesluis to a small campsite. The actual campsite was full, but we were allocated a space on the front lawn of the owner's house, they even brought out patio chairs for us to sit on. It remained hot and sunny all, and our distance was small again, due to the time taken with the bus, and not wanting to cycle too far in the 30c plus afternoon temperatures.

45km, Total 4383km

*Thursday 25th July – Day 83*

Oudesluis to Castricum

Hot and sunny right from the start. Flat fen roads led to the North Sea coast, then it was grit surfaced rollercoaster trails through the dunes. Stopped at Petten for pastries, and to buy lunch supplies, then on more really nice undulating trails through the dunes, on better surfaces now. 




Very attractive, but very busy, and very hot! Into Egmund aan den Hoef for shopping, then along a cyclepath down the main road, away from the coast to find a campsite with space – everywhere so busy we thought it best to start trying campsites quite early – at this one we got the last free space! After pitching we took a ride out to a nice Bar / Beergarden for a cool beer in the hot sun, before returning to the site to cook our evening meal. We were now close enough to Hoek van Holland to know when we would get there, and with decent 4g signal I booked our ferry home.

59km, Total 4941km

*Friday 26th July – Day 84*

Castricum to Noordwijkerhout

Hot and sunny again. Lovely sand dune trails southwards to Wijk an Meer where we got pastries and lunch supplies. It was then inland through more urban terrain and a ferry across the NordSee Canal. 




More urban riding led back into the dunes, hilly to Zandvoort where we stopped at a supermarket, then another 10km stretch of nice dune trail to a stop for icecream at Langerverduin. 




It was now very hot, so time to go in search of a campsite with space – there are lots around here, and we found one with a few spaces for small tents, and it also had a bar for cold beers, as away from the beach it was now pushing 40c!

56km, Total 4997km


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## RobinS (23 Aug 2019)

*Saturday 27th July – Day 85*

Noordwijkerhout to Hoek van Holland

Big storms overnight, and it was pretty overcast, but still warm and humid in the morning. It was very much a holiday site, so no-one else was up until well after 8am. Back to the Dune trail, and on to Noordwijk for pastries and lunch supplies. It was only as we ate our pastries that I realised that “Noordwijk” is actually a precise Dutch translation of “Norwich” our home town in the UK! It was then onwards into the familiar headwind, scenic undulating trail through lots more dunes. Through Den Haag on back roads and urban cyclepaths, then back out onto more dunes. Weather was getting steadily colder and more dismal. The final stretch was behind the floodbank, and into Hoek van Holland town centre. We had a couple of beers, taking refuge indoors, as it was now actually cold – about 16c, grey and dismal, nearly 24c colder than the previous day. We were also able to watch the penultimate stage of the Tour de France on the TV in the bar. 




We boarded the ferry at 19:30, had dinner on board, and headed to bed in our cabin as the ferry left port.

52km, Total 4549km






*Sunday 28th July – Day 86*

Harwich to Saxmundham

Up at 5:45 in time for a light breakfast, we were already in port, but disembarkation didn't start until 6:45. It was cold, damp and windy as we left Parkeston Quay for the short ride to Ha'penny Pier for the ferry across to Felixstowe. It was a long, cold, wait for the first ferry at 9:10, though the cafe did open at 8:30 for a hot cuppa. 




A stiff wind blowing straight onto the quay made for choppy seas, so it was a tricky job loading bikes and panniers onto the boat. We were the only passengers, and we were soon unloading onto the beach near Landguard, Felixstowe. 




We carted everything across the beach and reloaded our bikes at the carpark, and rode off to the Morrisons in town for snacks and some lunch supplies – at least supermarkets are open on Sundays in the UK. I also hoped to buy some sort of map, but it seems in this age of technology supermarkets don't sell them any more! Planning a rough route using my phone we cycled out of town, a nasty bit of the A14, then quiet roads. Trying to avoid main roads we zig-zagged northwards through Woodbridge and Blaxhall, including a very muddy unsurfaced stretch, and lots of floodwater across the lanes – apparently there had been a huge amount of rain while we were safely ensconced in our cabin on the ferry. It remained cool and cloudy as we came to the campsite at Carlton Park, just outside Saxmundham. Saxmundham itself was pretty dead, so after pitching we cycled a short way to the Poachers Pocket at Carlton for some beer in the warm and dry. Weather remained dismal so we decided to eat in the pub.

64km, Total 4613km

*Monday 29th July – Day 87*

Saxmundham to Reedham

It was a fine and sunny morning. We could have made it home in one day from here, but as the weather had improved we decided to take our time – after nearly three months on the road we weren't actually in any hurry to get home! We followed small country lanes to join the NCN1 heading northwards, through Halesworth where we stopped for pastries, then on to Beccles where we stopped for a pint in the Bear and Bells. From there we crossed the Waveney, and into Norfolk, pretty much on home turf now as we went up to the ferry at Reedham, the one last ferry crossing, and to camp on the back field of the pleasant site at the Reedham Ferry Inn. 




It was a fine evening as we cooked on the campsite, and a couple of nice pints in the pub.

58km, Total 4671km

*Tuesday 30th July – Day 88*

Reedham to Norwich

It was another fine warm morning, but we really couldn't put off getting home any longer, so we cycled north through Acle then Upton and South Walsham and to Salhouse where stopped at our elder daughters to collect our car which she had been storing for us. Looaded kit into the car, and bikes on the back and were soon home in Norwich by lunchtime.

22km, Total 4693km

Well, that's the story of our 2019 trip. I will give some information about our bikes, kit, and how everything worked that may be of help to anyone planning this sort of jaunt, but if anyone had any questions ask away!


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## videoman (23 Aug 2019)

Thanks for taking the time and trouble to write up such a comprehensive and most detailed trip report and wondered how you manage to remember all of the information.

Would make a good book to read as its kept me good for an hour or so and great photos as well and just wondered where your next trip will be to.


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## arranandy (23 Aug 2019)

Great write-up about your tour. I would love to do a tour like this but unfortunately work and current family commitments make it impossible


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## Pat "5mph" (24 Aug 2019)

Thanks very much for posting your tour, I enjoyed the read very much!
The relentless headwind made me tired too!


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## Fiona R (3 Sep 2019)

What a brilliant read. I don't suppose you have a map/strava trace of the route too? i'm dreaming of having more than two weeks to tour. so you really can go with the flow, stop in the nice places, have rest days when you need them etc. thank you for writing it up and great photos.


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

In terms of route, we don't do strava or anything like that, but we do roughly follow recognised long distance cycle routes where possible. Our route therefore consisted of sections of greenways and canal towpaths to Nantes, from there it was the Eurovelo 6 to Bratislava, along the way this is signed as the "Loire a velo", the Tour de Bourgogne, the Rhone a Rhine route, the Rhine cycleway, and the Danube cycleroute. From Prague it was the Elbe cycleroute, followed by some of the North sea cycle route. For maps we used a few pages torn from a Brittany Greenways booklet for the stretch to Nantes, then the Huber Cartographic map sets Eurovelo 6 Atlantic to Rhine (1-6) and Basel to Budapest (1-7). For the Elbe we had a tourist pamphlet for the first half, then bought the Bikeline Elbe Radweg 2 (Bikeline guides are very good, and volume 1 would have been handy as well!). From Cuxhaven we bought the Kompass Nordseekusten Radweg 1 which took us to the Dutch border. In the Netherlands we eventually found a cycle atlas of the whole country - the Falk Fietsatlas, which was really good. In the UK we just followed our noses! By the end of the trip I was carrying two kilos of maps and guidebooks.

The advantage of cycleroutes is that there are more facilities, campsites, bars, shops etc. and navigation is much easier. Downside is that some routes are so averse to "busy" roads that you go miles round back alleys instead of a few hundred yards on roads that in the UK would considered very quiet.


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

Our bikes, what worked, what didn't:

Our Revolution Tourers are four and half years old now, and after this trip have covered a total of about 15000km of heavily loaded touring. They were showing the strain a bit on this tour and do need some major refurbing ready for next year. During the trip we had a small number of failures:
My rear gear cable snapped in the brifter. This got fixed by Decathlon, even if I had taken a spare I couldn't have done it myself because of where it had snapped.
Janet broke a mudguard stay - we bodged this and it was fine for the rest of the trip, but now needs a new mudguard.
Janet's rear wheel broke - this was easily replaced in Germany. Mine had broken on an earlier trip in France, but as we now both have stronger wheels they should be OK for next year.
Tyres - Schwalbe Marathon Plus and Plus Tour tyres meant no punctures, but towards the end Janet's that dated back to buying in Bonn on a previous trip were completely worn out. Mine new for this trip were fine - moral - buy new tyres before you go!
Spare parts and tools - just take a basic multi-tool, puncture repair patches, and two spare tubes. Anything else can be bought if needed.
Janet did have an annoying squeak from her front BB5 disc brake for the first 1000km - whenever I looked at it and tweaked it, it was fine, but the squeak always came back. Eventually we discovered that the end of the cable was getting trapped when she put her front pannier on stopping it from fully releasing! Just twisting the cable the other side of the rack cured it!


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

Fitness and health:
We were completely bike-unfit when we started so distances were quite short. Saddle-soreness was combatted with French supermarket nappy rash cream. After the first 1000km we were fitter, and felt good cycling all day. Janet also lost 18lbs in weight in the course of the trip (a good result). We had no health issues, and in the whole three months never had as much as a cold or headache.


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

Notes about the Headwinds:
For the main section of the route heading east along the EV6 we were expecting a good proportion of westerly winds, as that is normal at these latitudes. This did not happen, and we had day after day of strong easterlies. From Prague to the North Sea the guide does warn that winds are normally from the North West, this was correct, but not just "normally", in fact every single day the wind was against us, many of those days with strong winds. Even the last stretch along from Cuxhaven to Hook of Holland the largely went round to South Westerly, so was still against us. In the whole 90 days we had just 2 days with strong tailwinds, 8 or nine with variable winds, the rest with headwinds, and on at least 40 of those the winds were strong enough to make cycling hard work.


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

Shelter and sleeping:
We used a Vango Force 10 Xenon 2plus for the trip. It had been used for six weeks previously and gave no problems. It packs small, weighs less than 2.5kg, and as well as housing us has a large porch for kit. Only one downside, with doors shut to keep mozzies out it is not very well ventilated.
Our sleeping bags are Vango Venom 200 down bags, rated down to plus 4c, and again pack very small. We use microfibre bag liners, mainly to keep the bags clean, and use them on their own when it is hot. We find these, plus wrapping our feet with a mid-layer jacket is tolerable down to -4c in the early season.
We both use Nemo Tensor Insulated mats, again very light and pack small. Janet's 2017 model had a fault where some of the internal baffles pulled causing slow punctures. These were easily fixable along the way and it was replaced under warranty when we got home. My 2018 model had no faults. We also use homemade microfibre covers on the mats - keeps them clean on long tours (if they get greasy, if you need to patch them the patches wont stick!).
We also use OEX self inflating pillows, again with homemade microfibre covers, as since we are getting on a bit we need comfort!


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

Campsites and suchlike:
We, well Janet particularly, like to have access to proper toilets at overnight stops, so we use campsites rather than wild camping.
France - there were reasonable sites at sensible intervals most of the way, and costs for the two of us ranged from 8euros to 19euros. Facilities varied from excellent to pretty poor, not necessarily in proportion to price, but showers usually included. Watch out though, as even the smartest often do not provide toilet paper.
Southern Germany - sites less frequent, but many places they allow camping at various boating or canoe clubs along the riversides, usually with really nice facilities. Boat clubs varied from 5 to 12 euros, normal sites from 8 to 22.
Slovakia / Czech Republic - enough sites, variable quality, but usually OK once you got used to the East European scruffiness - everyone very friendly and welcoming with costs of 6 to 14euros.
East / North Germany - enough sites, but often smaller and less good than those in the south with often brusque staff, and again unlike in the south, showers cost extra, despite the fact that the sites themselves cost just as much.
Netherlands - mainly decent sites but away from the coast very small, mainly 12 to 20euros, with showers costing extra - some even charged for hot water for washing up (as did a few in North Germany).


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

Food and Drink:
For cooking we have two cheap Chinese folding three-legged stoves which take the coleman/primus cartridges. We also have adaptors to enable them to use the camping gas clickfit cartridges, or the old style pierceable ones. With this flexibility we never had problems sourcing enough gas, in France from supermarkets, elsewhere from outdoor shops. we use two Trangia saucepans and two Trangia non-stick frypans so we can do decent meals (though the newer Trangia non-stick frypans are utter junk, unlike the older 1990s ones).
We try to have a substantial breakfast - bacon eggs, fried potatoes, mushrooms, bread, croissants or whatever we can get. Lunch is usually a picnic, bread, cheese, cold meat etc. When we can we get pastries for elevenses. Evening meal is normally a proper meal, meat, potatoes, pasta, rice, salad - what we like and what we can buy on a daily basis in not too big quantities. We do also like a few beers as we go.
Prices:
France - now very expensive for beer in bars, and supermarket food is at least 50% more expensive than the UK. Wine is cheap.
Southern Germany - Beer in bars is cheaper than at home, and supermarket prices are similar to the UK
Slovakia / Czech Republic - Beer very cheap, as little as £1 per pint sometimes. Supermarket prices pretty reasonable as well, with local meats and other produce very cheap.
East / North Germany - for some reason everything is a bit more expensive than in the south - beer 3.50 4.00 as opposed to 2.90 to 3.40 in the south.
Netherlands - Supermarket food and beer expensive, but not quite as bad as France.


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## RobinS (26 Sep 2019)

What comes next?
After 3 long tours in the last 4 summers since I was made redundant we are pretty committed to carrying on as long as we can, but the length of tours will depend on work requirements. This coming winter we are working in the French Alps from December to late April, so allowing for a month at home to sort stuff, prepare, see the grandchildren etc we won't get away until mid-May, and don't want to tour much after mid-July due to crowds, full campsites and increased costs. This will allow us two months or so, and at present we thinking along the lines of Velodysee followed by the Raid Pyrenean.

If anyone has questioned about anything don't hesitate to ask - we have learned a lot about touring with 9 months on the road in the last three and half years.


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