# Giant Road E+ 1



## Foghat (17 Mar 2017)

Anyone got one of these, or the Road E+ 2?

I've decided my circumstances will benefit from acquiring an e-bike for my fleet, and the Giant seems to fit the bill rather well.

Whilst I am very fit (for my, I suppose, advancing years and usual level of sleep deprivation), the 200-miles-per-week all-year-round commuting on my current 16kg-all-in commuter bike really takes its toll. It's all on rough hilly lanes, with belting headwinds on the way in that almost ALWAYS turn enough to seriously work against me when it comes to going home, which means come the weekend I need Saturday to recover and catch up on sleep, and any long/hard club rides/events etc on Sunday usually set me up for another week of feeling knackered at work. The rough roads, constant headwinds and hills really are a major drain on energy reserves, especially through the winter.

By using an e-bike instead on, say, 2-3 days a week for commuting, maybe all five days some weeks if sleep deprivation is getting particularly bad, I'm sure there will be a significant reduction in fatigue, and more (non-e-bike) weekend riding that can consequently be achieved. What's the view of anyone in a similar situation?

I do commute quite fast now, though (considering the bike is 16kg with all the lights and other paraphernalia) - usually averaging 14-18mph depending on headwind severity, or 19-22mph if the miracle of a tailwind ever materialises (and I can average a fair bit more riding my 7.5kg No. 1 bike without commuting luggage). So the 15.5mph cut-off of the Yamaha PW motor is of some concern. However, there are enough uphills and tough into-the-wind drags for the e-bike to make sense - but obviously the magnet-on-the-crank hack will be of particular interest, given my current averages. Of course, I can always just aim to maintain my current commuting averages, but simply achieve it with a lot less effort on a Road E+ 1.

I note we'll have to wait for the 2018 model to get one with the new Yamaha PW-X motor. I think I'll wait for that, as the new motor is apparently about 0.5kg lighter and 13% smaller, and hopefully by then the frame will have been redesigned to take flat mount brakes, and any other niggles with the current model ironed out. By waiting for the PW-X, I'm hoping everything will be a bit more future-proof.

Does anyone have any information on when the 2018 model is likely to be released in the UK? I seem to recall reading the next year's model usually comes out around October-November, but cannot remember where I saw this.

Now to start saving......! In the meantime, it would be interesting to hear the impressions of any current owners here.


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## raleighnut (17 Mar 2017)

Why not fit a kit to your existing commuter, the front wheel kits are designed to 'freewheel' above the legal assistance limit.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...-page/&usg=AFQjCNHEGPQ9qroe-xNDxsrXtSsG8lmRwg


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## Foghat (17 Mar 2017)

Well I did look into the possibility, but......I commute around 8,000 miles a year by bike, and I must have at least two commuting bikes so that in the event of mechanical problems or cleaning/servicing activity rendering one bike temporarily out of action, I always have one ready to use. Without fail! Yes, I could drive to work in such situations, but I categorically refuse to do so.

I only have one commuter bike with adequate clearance for 32mm tyres; and the improved comfort of these over 28mm tyres is considerable (especially as all '28mm' tyres I've tried have been nearer 26mm). The roads are now so rough and potholed that it really f***s me off when I get battered on virtually every yard of the commute with 28mm tyres, even if they are inflated just hard enough to not suffer pinch punctures. This is only going to get worse, given the underfunding and mismanagement of English road maintenance (not to mention the awful and declining standard of contractors' repair work). I can tolerate 28mm being the limit when riding club and other events, but for commuting day-in-day-out, on my particular route(s), through the winter too, it just brasses me off too much not to do something about it.

So procuring a bike which fulfils the spare 32mm-tyre-capable commuter bike function AND has all the other benefits outlined in my earlier post seems like the most sensible course of action....and I can sell the current '28mm'-tyred spare commuter to help fund the Giant, or keep and re-purpose it.

Furthermore, strange as it may sound, I'm still young and fit enough to not want to ride electrically-assisted on every commute - and when I do ride unassisted, I'd rather be on a 16kg bike rather than a 20+kg bike!

That was the basis of my decision-making process, anyway.....


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## Foghat (17 Mar 2017)

Here's the Giant in question:

Giant Road E+1


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## raleighnut (17 Mar 2017)

Nearly £3,000 for a commuter. 

Buy an old Raleigh MTB (steel frame) uprate to V-brakes and Deore transmission (21-28 speed) fit Schwalbe Marathon 1.5/1.75 26" tyres and a front wheel kit with a rack battery.

Less than a grand for a 'bullet-proof commuter'....................also be aware that the kit can be removed, it isn't a 'one way' conversion all you need to do is remove it and you're back to a standard bike and the kit will fit another bike.


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## Foghat (17 Mar 2017)

I spend far too much of my life commuting to not do it on (high quality) bikes I really want to be on, and am prepared to save for......life's too short, and 40 miles every day just to get to work and back would otherwise be too trying on an old hack!!.......Fortunately, my current workplace has high security.

However, your post has got me thinking, @raleighnut. While I'm waiting for the 2018 Giant Road E+ to be released (and no doubt even longer for it to be subsequently discounted), I'm now seriously considering an interim measure of converting an old 1994 custom-built Roberts DOGS BOLX Deore XT mountain bike I've got; it is very nice, but rarely gets any use now as I tend to go mountain-biking only when it hasn't rained for about two weeks (i.e. about three times a year - I get enough mud on bikes as I can handle from the commuting on filthy lanes).

With my high-volume commuting requirement, and desire to get out even more at weekends (and be simultaneously less fatigued from the commuting), e-bikes are clearly the future as a key element of the bike fleet, so more than one will be highly worthwhile. And I'll be able to sweat another asset by getting the DOGS BOLX back into regular use (not sure about a top gear of 44-11 on the road, though). Thanks for the suggestion!


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## Pale Rider (18 Mar 2017)

I'm not sure you want the new Yamaha motor for your purpose.

The PW-X version is aimed at mountain bikes which require a sharper power (such as it is) delivery.

Outright grunt is irrelevant because you will be running on lower assistance levels, but the less smooth way the assistance is delivered by the PW-X could be wearing on a commute.

What you do need - and can already get - is the larger capacity 500wh battery, particularly if you intend to rattle along at top speed which saps the battery quickly.

Speaking of speed, the 'sensor on crank' trick no longer works, but it is possible to de-restrict the Yamaha motor by using a small device that clips on to the speed sensor on the chain stay.

The motors are built for torque, not speed, so the assistance drops off sharply the faster you go, but it still makes a big difference.

More speed equals even more battery use, so that reinforces the need for the 500wh battery.

https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/blog/post/yamaha-pwx-ebike-system-2017/

Speed limit de-restriction device:

https://www.badassebikes.com/


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## keithmac (18 Mar 2017)

I'd love a Road E+1 but don't do the mileage to justify the cost!.

Ebikes are a godsend where wind is concerned!.

My Gtech sits around 14mph most of the time, so on a calm still day I would have been quicker on my old bike BUT where I'd be in the granny gear going nowhere into the wind the Gtech will still be doing 12mph+.


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## Foghat (19 Mar 2017)

Thanks for that, @Pale Rider - useful comments there.

It'll be interesting to see whether Giant puts the PW-X into its road e-bikes. 

Funnily enough, having slept on my decision for a few nights, the lure of getting more weekend riding in (non-e-bike), and an easier commuting week, is now proving too much and I don't think I can wait for the next iteration of the Road E+.....which may not even have (m)any differences. Also, I've pretty much now ruled out the potential DOGS BOLX conversion, once I realised all the thumb-shifting would become too much on my constantly up-and-down commute (really not keen on thumb-shifting any more, due to hand injury).

So it looks very much like I'll be wielding the credit card imminently. Now, I wonder what the servicing schedule/arrangements, longevity and bearing replacement options are for the Yamaha PW motor......


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## Pale Rider (19 Mar 2017)

Foghat said:


> Thanks for that, @Pale Rider - useful comments there.
> 
> It'll be interesting to see whether Giant puts the PW-X into its road e-bikes.
> 
> ...



I doubt the PW-X motor will go into the road bike for the reasons I've stated.

Worth bearing in mind there's not much difference anyway, some cyclists might not notice any.

As regards servicing, either side of the motor it's an ordinary bike which you will already know about.

The motors are pretty much a sealed unit and, typically Japanese, tend to be reliable.

The Yamaha motor has been around a few years now, and I've not heard of any problems with it.

You are buying a quality branded bicycle with a factory fitted quality branded motor, which is about all you can do to get the best chance of reliability.

It would be better to buy from your local Giant dealer because in the unlikely event there is a fault you are in a stronger position than if you source the bike from an internet discounter.

Of course, the warranty is valid irrespective, so an internet bike might be worth a go if the savings are significant.


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## keithmac (19 Mar 2017)

There's an owner on the pedelecs forum, he seems very happy with his.

Only bugbear iirc is the speedo is in kilometers per hour?.

I've tried very hard no to buy one!, new windows for the house took priority unfortunately.


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## Foghat (19 Mar 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> I doubt the PW-X motor will go into the road bike for the reasons I've stated.
> 
> Worth bearing in mind there's not much difference anyway, some cyclists might not notice any.



Indeed, but my suspicion is that the PW-X's development, with a smaller form factor and significantly reduced weight, indicates the direction things are going with such motors......and I can see a situation in the (possibly not-too-distant) future when the motor needs replacing, but they're then only produced in the smaller size, can't be retro-fitted, and so the frame needs replacing too, except frames no doubt won't be available separately......

Also, Shimano seems to be making a rapid exit from producing non-flat mount hydraulic road disc brake calipers, so I'm assuming the next Road E+ will be re-designed to take flat mount.

All of which interests me from a future-proofing perspective. Nevertheless, my desire for an easier commuting workload, and hence being able to get out riding on more (some, even!) Saturdays, is now just too great to wait.


Pale Rider said:


> As regards servicing, either side of the motor it's an ordinary bike which you will already know about.


I understand the PW works with a square taper bottom bracket axle, but this will change to an ISIS axle with the PW-X. Do you know if these are standard (or at least readily available) square taper and ISIS bottom brackets, or are they custom-designed for the specified 'custom' FSA chainset? Any idea if the BB bearings are simple to replace, as with the mileage I'll be doing, I can't see them lasting more than 2-3 years? I think I need a trip to a Giant dealer, as you suggest, hopefully for a test ride.

Thanks.


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## Foghat (19 Mar 2017)

keithmac said:


> There's an owner on the pedelecs forum, he seems very happy with his.
> 
> Only bugbear iirc is the speedo is in kilometers per hour?



Yes, I've read those threads with interest. Not too worried about the km/miles issue - I can convert pretty quickly between units, and will probably be fitting a separate computer anyway.


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## Pale Rider (19 Mar 2017)

Foghat said:


> Indeed, but my suspicion is that the PW-X's development, with a smaller form factor and significantly reduced weight, indicates the direction things are going with such motors......and I can see a situation in the (possibly not-too-distant) future when the motor needs replacing, but they're then only produced in the smaller size, can't be retro-fitted, and so the frame needs replacing too, except frames no doubt won't be available separately......
> 
> Also, Shimano seems to be making a rapid exit from producing non-flat mount hydraulic road disc brake calipers, so I'm assuming the next Road E+ will be re-designed to take them.
> 
> ...



Mmm, crank drive ebike bottom brackets is a toughie.

Seems to me the Yamaha is only a square taper in the way the cranks are attached.

The rest of the bracket is non-standard, not least because there's a gear attached to it to accept the drive from the motor.

Bosch is ISIS, I have two of those and as far as I can gather it's the same, the cranks attach by an ISIS spline but the rest isn't standard.

Or if it is, removing and replacing it is a more complex job than on a push bike.

Service for these motors tends to be on a send it back/exchange basis, and given that not many fail, I think very few people on the outside have ever rebuilt one.

Some pics/vids via google, which you might be able to interpret better than me.

I'm not sure why Yamaha is using ISIS on the new motor, on push bikes ISIS is reckoned not to last as long as square taper, which is one of the reasons why it's not really caught on.

Having said that, I have 6,000+ miles on one of my Bosch/ISIS bikes and the bracket is not showing any sign of wear.

Long-term support is another question, but the likes of Bosch and Yamaha tend not to leave customers high and dry.

Exchange motors are still available for my Bosch bikes, even though they have the first generation motors which have not been fitted to new bikes for several years.

As is so often the case, most problems can be sorted with the application of money, about £600 in the case of a Bosch motor.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=i...1#imgdii=uHMnZgWrXu_FUM:&imgrc=HhbYyszfLFonWM:


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## Foghat (20 Mar 2017)

Thanks for those insights.

Whilst future-proofing does concern me, I'm hoping the size and status of Giant/Yamaha will indeed mean ongoing supportability. Now to find somewhere with stock and test-riding capability.....


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## Pale Rider (20 Mar 2017)

Foghat said:


> Thanks for those insights.
> 
> Whilst future-proofing does concern me, I'm hoping the size and status of Giant/Yamaha will indeed mean ongoing supportability. Now to find somewhere with stock and test-riding capability.....



Hope that goes well.

From what I read, the bike bowls along very nicely.

Most ebikes are hybrid/mountain style and don't go as well in comparison.

That makes sense, because it is the difference between riding a road bike against a hybrid, only assisted in each case.

The guy on the ebike forum - mentioned upthread - has a Giant Road E and a Scott eMTB, and he reckons the Giant goes a great deal better.

Which also translates to more mileage from the battery - never a bad thing.

I'm sure a few roadies on here will be interested to hear how you get on.


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## Foghat (20 Mar 2017)

Cheers! I'll report on progress....


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## Foghat (14 Apr 2017)

Well that has got to be the most inspired cycling acquisition for years!

I've commuted on it for two weeks now, and wish I'd got it a year ago when Giant launched the Road E+. I could have had a whole year's extra Saturday riding - something that has been pretty much impossible with such a high commuting workload. Now, I can guarantee getting there in 1hr 06m, even with a strong headwind and however knackered I'm feeling, and if I want to take it really easy, I only lose a couple of minutes. To do it in 1hr 06m on the non-e-bike is a major effort (impossible into a strong headwind); and taking it really easy on that bike means about 1hr 25m even on a benign wind day. So not only am I saving effort, but also time most days. Yes, it's too heavy to ride any faster, so with a tailwind I can ride faster on the non-e-bike (0hr 55m is the record), but that obviously still takes a lot of effort on a 16kg bike, and tailwinds are very rare anyway.

Impressions of the bike itself. Well, as I say, it's very heavy - 22kg before adding any mudguards/rack/lights etc. Not a problem when the motor is assisting you, but on level and gently descending roads it is pretty sluggish and there is a constant desire to drop back to a speed where the assist cuts in. Fortunately, the cut-off limit at 15.5mph is not a cliff edge - the assist fades out up to about 17/18mph, and fades back in too. It's worst when reaching the bottom of a descent and you're trying to keep momentum for the climb up the other side - in short, you can't; the boat anchor effect of the bike is too great, and you have to slow to the fade-in speed, at which point you achieve zoom-up-hill capability, and promptly scale the heights with impressive ease and speed.

This all means you ride very differently from an unassisted road bike, and it would probably make riding with unassisted companions slightly awkward if you're aiming to keep close together on the road. You'd be faster on the climbs, they'd be faster on the flats, wind-assisted gentle rises and less steep downhills, and you'd really get out of synch when going from fast descent to climbing up the other side, or accelerating away from junctions etc.

The Road E+ rides pretty well, though, and is very easy to keep straight - gliding smoothly uphill, dead straight, is a very satisfying sensation. When cornering sharply or at speed, you're very aware of the hefty battery at the front, and the motor, which create an odd weight distribution that influences cornering forces; nothing very alarming, though. Talking of the motor, it has three levels of power assist - eco, normal and sport. Eco has minimal effect, and while it may save battery life is not much use in a commuting scenario. Normal is much better, and uses a higher torque to get you to 15.5mph reasonably quickly. Having experimented with levels and recharging for my 40-mile round trip, I only use Sport mode, which gives a very satisfying shove on the hills and in stiff headwinds. I can get 2.5 commutes out of one charge using Sport - i.e. 100 miles to empty - on the hillyish route. In practical terms, that means I recharge every second commuting day (i.e. after 80 miles), to give a bit of contingency for belting headwinds in both directions. If I take the stonkingly hilly route home, that drastically reduces battery life, and only one (one-way) extra-hilly commute is possible if keeping to the two-day charging regime. The battery takes about 8 hours to charge from low.

Other points to note. Well, the Q-factor on the cranks is wider than the Amazon delta - I was rather dubious when I first saw this, but in practice, after fitting SPD pedals, I barely notice it when riding. If I think about it, there is a vague sensation of cycling like John Wayne walks after getting off his horse to drink his milk, but it's not too bad; certainly doesn't feel uncomfortable or cause any problems. The hydraulic Shimano RS685/RS785 brakes work most excellently, and are needed on such a heavy bike. The Schwalbe Durano 32mm tyres are good in terms of grip and comfort. The shop had pumped them up to about 5 million PSI, but I quickly corrected that. I certainly won't be going narrower than 32mm, as the frame is fairly stiff. For winter use, I expect I'll get some extra wheelsets so I can have different winter tyre options ready and waiting to swap in as required, just like my non-e commuter; will need to be consistent with hub/rotor models of course to reduce the risk of having to mess around moving calipers to prevent rubbing.

It's been fairly easy to achieve my usual riding position - but the seat angle is a bit steep, meaning the saddle is jammed as far back in the (decent layback) seatpost as it'll go. I much prefer drop handlebars of course, and would not have enjoyed e-bike riding with flat bars for 40 miles a day before these Giants came along (a conversion of a drop-bar bike could have worked, I suppose). The large battery, designed into the down tube, does make the bike look slightly odd, but it's fine and other than that appears reasonably normal. You can recharge the battery on or off the bike, and it unlocks with a key for security.

There are a few design flaws. For instance, the single pair of bottle cage bosses (on the seat tube) should be lower to allow fitting larger 750ml bottles, and there should be another set on the top tube so one can fit a tool case or second bottle, or bottle battery for lights. The rack fitment holes on the seatstays near the dropouts are a daft design, requiring a rather Heath Robinson arrangement of bolts and multiple washers/spacers to get working satisfactorily. The seatstay bridge has its mudguard-and-rack-fitting hole on the underside, rather than the more sensible traditional position; this means you need to fashion a special bracket to attach a rack, or even drill a hole in the mudguard - it all could have been so much easier if some common sense had been applied (i.e. dedicated upper rack bosses and usual bridge hole position). The seat tube takes a 30.9mm seatpost - given the sh*tness of road surfaces, frame designs should all be reverting to 27.2mm for a bit less rigidity. The electronic display is not quick-release, so could be vandalised or stolen (although it would take several minutes to get off). The standard 32-tooth cassette seems a somewhat non-optimal selection - with assist on (and you'd never choose to ride with it off), I can't see me (or anyone) ever needing much lower than a 23, even on the 1-in-4s of the Cotswolds. I prefer to have more ratios that are deployed in the general assist zone (i.e. 10-18mph), and so eschewed the 32 for a 25. I suppose the 32 would be worthwhile if you ran out of power in an area of very steep hills......

So, I won't be using it outside my commuting. And at the moment, it's getting rolled out on every commute because of how much easier it is to get to work at a guaranteed speed (AND less knackered) whatever the wind direction or my level of sleep deprivation and fatigue. When the novelty has worn off, and the sleep bank is more full, and the weather is warmer, I'm sure I'll revert to the 'normal' commuter for some days a week, but currently I'm more fixated on how I can actually get out on Saturdays now. Brilliant!!

In summary, if your cycle-commuting workload is so high that it restricts your capacity to ride at the weekends, and you have secure storage at work, the Giant E+ Road is a great choice. If you want to keep up with fitter/stronger riders, but it's not imperative that you stay very close to each other, and the stronger riders are happy to take it easier on the flat, then again it could be a good choice - but compromises will be needed to stay in proximity to each other. It is at its most useful on hilly terrain, where the effect of its assist on hills is most apparent, and its weight helps on descents, and where its limitations on the flat are least......but hills do reduce battery life, so 100 miles on a charge would be pushing it.

Will post some pictures in due course....after I've sorted the rack-fitting business and a couple of other things out.

By the way, having now experienced how electric-assist can deliver power to one's riding, and how it can facilitate almost effortless and smooth powerful accelerations, I'm even more convinced than I was already that Cancellara's ridiculous acceleration in the 2010 Paris-Roubaix was done with the benefit of mechanical power assistance.


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## Foghat (14 Apr 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> Speaking of speed, the 'sensor on crank' trick no longer works



How 'bout that!!


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## Pale Rider (14 Apr 2017)

Pleased the bike is working well.

Your case is unusual, coming at ebikes as a strong cyclist whereas most new ebike riders get one because they can't manage more than a few miles on a push bike.

Very few ebikers could get close to the range you are getting - I couldn't - so you must still be putting in a fair amount of effort.

That's good as you want to continue push biking.

I know a couple of ebikers who lost a lot of their cycling fitness when they took to ebiking, disheartening when they get on the push bike and find they can't do what they used to be able to do.


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## keithmac (14 Apr 2017)

Great review!, very jealous of your new steed..

I bought an ebike for similar reasons, commuting takes some of the fun out of cycling especially if there's a belting headwind against you on the way home..


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## Foghat (15 Apr 2017)

You're right, @Pale Rider. I do still get to work sweating and having put some decent effort in. The key thing, though, as you'll know, is that even so, it is still a considerably lower level of effort than unassisted (if I want), and the option is always there to make very low effort and still achieve an acceptable journey time (e.g. rest days on a Friday before the Saturday ride, or a Monday after a hard Sunday ride) - the timings I posted about should be useful evidence for anyone considering doing likewise.

Good stuff, @keithmac. I just wish I'd thought of this solution to my commuting workload sooner. Can't recommend it enough.....!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (25 Apr 2017)

Hi foghat, new to this forum but I have just purchased the 2016 Giant road E + 1 bike last week & I managed to get a good deal on it as the 2017 model is now out.
I understand the new one has LCD & switch update, I found your review very interesting.
I've got back into cycling just to try & keep fit, I brought a defy 4 a couple years ago which I love but after years of rugby & back problems I thought the ebike would suit me.
It's rather hilly in Somerset & I try to get out weekends & a couple times in the week.
I find the most annoying part of the bike 25kph limit as the bike seems most happy at 33kph on the flat, it is heavy but once the wheels are turning you don't notice the weight.
I'm a keen motorcyclist as well but find I see a bit more on the ebike


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## Foghat (28 Apr 2017)

Glad you found it interesting, @Giantbadge. Hopefully others will find it useful.

I note _Cycling Plus_ has reviewed the 2017 Road E+ 1 in the current issue (June) which came out this week, comparing how it rides with Giant's TCR Advanced Pro Disc non-e-bike, and discussing the practicalities of riding with un-assisted companions. Much of the review echoes a lot of the points I've made. Rival magazine _Bikes Etc_ also has a cursory 'review' (more of an extended listing) in its E-bikes Guide accompanying the June 2017 issue. I find it faintly ridiculous, though, that both magazines illustrate their features with 'action shots' of riders riding the Road E+ 1 out of the saddle - the bikes are so heavy, and the handling out of the saddle is so awkward/cumbersome, that you only ever get out of the saddle to relieve the (considerable) pressure on the a*se arising from lengthy periods continuously seated. A comfortable saddle is of paramount importance with e-bikes because of this.

Yes, searching out the remaining 2016 models makes sense, as I did too, since the £600 rise in price, as far as I can tell, only gets you i) a different display/controller (that apparently can be switched between miles and km - 2016 is km only) and ii) a walk-assist mode. Enjoy your 2016 bike!

I agree that the 25kph (15.5mph) assist limit is annoyingly low. Whilst it is appropriate for bikes suited predominantly for use on cycle/shared paths, it is too low for most road riding. The USA's limit seems to be 32kph/20mph, which is far more sensible. Maybe after Brexit the UK can escape this daft shackle. _Cycling Plus_ also commented on the bike being 'hobbled' by this. Nevertheless, the Road E+ 1 still makes eminent sense for my commuting, for the various reasons in my review.

Anyway, the next stage of my e-bike initiation will be washing the thing. Giant's user manual includes an apocalyptic proclamation about not using water to clean the plastic covers protecting the motor and associated electrics (_"do not wash these plastic components with water",_ _"use a soft cloth with neutral solution_", it says, but elsewhere it says _"it is forbidden to use excessive water to wash the plastic"_). Hmmm - given that it has the same covers for its e-mountain bikes, and these things get used in downpours when commuting (yet don't come with mudguards), it is not helpful to have conflicting guidance like this. During British winters, commuting extensively on lanes knee-deep in mud (with mudguards), I will be washing the bike regularly, including I expect the plastic covers. @Pale Rider - as the forum's obvious e-bike guru, do you have any comments on this aspect of e-bike maintenance?


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## jonny jeez (28 Apr 2017)

raleighnut said:


> Why not fit a kit to your existing commuter, the front wheel kits are designed to 'freewheel' above the legal assistance limit.
> 
> http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...-page/&usg=AFQjCNHEGPQ9qroe-xNDxsrXtSsG8lmRwg


Can work well and can be a dog.

My understanding of ebikes tend to point me towards purpose built bikes that set the power pack low in the frame for a good centre of gravity and not in the rear rack. Also the delivery of power on a purpose built bike can be much better than on a conversion like a Copenhagen wheel or such.

That's what the kalkhoff sales guy said to me at least...or something along those lines.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Apr 2017)

So they don't want us to ride in the rain???.
Are the covers made of suger then.


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## Foghat (28 Apr 2017)

By the way, anyone considering this bike will probably find this video review useful (bearing in mind that that bike has the USA's higher assist speed limit):


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sa_h7LBMQ3k


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## Pale Rider (28 Apr 2017)

Foghat said:


> Glad you found it interesting, @Giantbadge. Hopefully others will find it useful.
> 
> I note _Cycling Plus_ has reviewed the 2017 Road E+ 1 in the current issue (June) which came out this week, comparing how it rides with Giant's TCR Advanced Pro Disc non-e-bike, and discussing the practicalities of riding with un-assisted companions. Much of the review echoes a lot of the points I've made. Rival magazine _Bikes Etc_ also has a cursory 'review' (more of an extended listing) in its E-bikes Guide accompanying the June 2017 issue. I find it faintly ridiculous, though, that both magazines illustrate their features with 'action shots' of riders riding the Road E+ 1 out of the saddle - the bikes are so heavy, and the handling out of the saddle is so awkward/cumbersome, that you only ever get out of the saddle to relieve the (considerable) pressure on the a*se arising from lengthy periods continuously seated. A comfortable saddle is of paramount importance with e-bikes because of this.
> 
> ...



Electrics and water don't mix, and there's no doubt some of the Chinese ebike kits don't like bad weather.

The Yamaha will be much better designed and made, so I wouldn't expect any problems provided you are sensible.

I wash my Bosch bikes pretty much as a normal bike, hot soapy water applied with a brush or rag, then wipe off.

Probably wise to avoid sloshing water where the battery terminals plug into the frame, and remove the battery to check none is collecting.

Condensation is the enemy, so putting the bike in a shed wet is to be avoided.

The Yamaha motor has been around a few years, albeit not on road bikes, but I think we would have heard by now of any problems caused by washing or weather.


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## raleighnut (28 Apr 2017)

jonny jeez said:


> Can work well and can be a dog.
> 
> My understanding of ebikes tend to point me towards purpose built bikes that set the power pack low in the frame for a good centre of gravity and not in the rear rack. Also the delivery of power on a purpose built bike can be much better than on a conversion like a Copenhagen wheel or such.
> 
> That's what the kalkhoff sales guy said to me at least...or something along those lines.


Only because Kalkhoff don't make a kit and he was trying to sell you something 

TBH you do need a fair bit of mechanical expertise to successfully (and neatly) fit a kit but both of ours look and work fine. The motor, controller, battery are identical to those fitted to front wheel e-bikes in the shops.


----------



## jonny jeez (28 Apr 2017)

raleighnut said:


> Only because Kalkhoff don't make a kit and he was trying to sell you something


Probably right, although in his defence (no idea why I feel I should defend him though) he wasn't slagging off kits, more bikes that plant the battery on the rack rather than low on the frame.


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Apr 2017)

I have the first service booked next month, just a bit of rear derailleur adjustment needed but it's free .
I am going to try derestricting it then, I think go for the Magnet option first & if that feels good I will go for the speed box so the speedo will be more accurate, although lots €139.
Coming out of our road I generally turn right as if I go left there are two very steep hills, but now I can go left without a worry It loves hills...
I was put off insuring the bike as it's more than I pay for my £10k motorbike why is that?.


----------



## raleighnut (28 Apr 2017)

jonny jeez said:


> Probably right, although in his defence (no idea why I feel I should defend him though) he wasn't slagging off kits, more bikes that plant the battery on the rack rather than low on the frame.


It's possible to buy battery packs that fit onto the bottle cage mounts (and they're the same price) as for me most of my bikes have a rack fitted (and for the ones that don't I have a beam rack)


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Apr 2017)

I did manage to get the bike for £2.199 with a set of spd pedals chucked in, I wouldn't want to pay a grand more just for an updated display & controller.


----------



## keithmac (28 Apr 2017)

That's a very good price for the 2016 bike, a bargain!.


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## Foghat (29 Apr 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> Electrics and water don't mix, and there's no doubt some of the Chinese ebike kits don't like bad weather.
> 
> The Yamaha will be much better designed and made, so I wouldn't expect any problems provided you are sensible.
> 
> ...



Thanks for that. This is pretty much what I was planning to base my cleaning regime for the e-bike on, as well as the assumption that the Giant manual's "don't wash the plastic covers with water" warning is being somewhat over-cautious!


----------



## sight-pin (30 Apr 2017)

Must admit i wouldn't mind a Giant Road E bike myself, just wondering if they have the 6kph walk assist facility like some other e bikes?


----------



## sight-pin (30 Apr 2017)

Ah! just noticed on the video link they do have that facility.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (30 Apr 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Must admit i wouldn't mind a Giant Road E bike myself, just wondering if they have the 6kph walk assist facility like some other e bikes?


It's on the latest model but cost a £1000 more than the 2016 bike .


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## Davidc (28 May 2017)

Interesting thread.

I bought the E+ 2 version a few weeks ago and have ridden it several hundred miles since. Decided to get the Giant road bike rather than an electric version of a Dutch trekking bike or of a mountain bike.

I decided to buy one because I've reached the stage, owing to health and age combined, when although I can still get up most of Somerset's hills, it's ever more slowly and with increasing recovery times for the longer and steeper ones. This has made keeping up with other riders difficult, and does detract from the enjoyment of some rides.

The weight hasn't been much of an issue as my Dawes tourer doesn't weigh much less, and I've found that the bike is generally a good road bike, with or without the electric assist turned on. I'm using the extra power on those long and steep hills and into headwinds, it's great. Rarely need to use it above the economy power position. The rest of the time the motor just stays switched off. My only real criticism is that it doesn't balance well (ie badly)when standing out of the saddle, which limits my performance when un-powered.

Put my Brooks B17 saddle on it which improved it hugely - others may disagree with that move! Don't want to get into discussions about saddles though.

I don't commute any more as I've retired, just wish these bikes had been around when I did!

@Foghat - you've bought the expensive one, which I decided I couldn't justify, but I'm sure it will do your commuting job brilliantly. As for the cost, just work out how much the same commute would cost by car. Your outlay should be recouped in very much less than the service life of the bike so don't worry about obsolescence - just buy a new one in 5 years or so from the savings, complete with all the inevitable technology improvements. Someone will still be wanting to buy your current one when you put it on ebay then!


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## Pale Rider (29 May 2017)

I see those GCN boys have been testing a Giant ebike against a road bike in the Dolomites.

The performance of the ebike was impressive, but that had a lot to do with a fit, light rider.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8tV8cWeY3Y


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (9 Jun 2017)

On my bike, i have noticed when pushing it backwards the motor is engaging.
I can't remember it doing this before??.
Is this correct.


----------



## raleighnut (9 Jun 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> On my bike, i have noticed when pushing it backwards the motor is engaging.
> I can't remember it doing this before??.
> Is this correct.


Both of our front wheel motors do this.


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## sight-pin (9 Jun 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> On my bike, i have noticed when pushing it backwards the motor is engaging.
> I can't remember it doing this before??.
> Is this correct.


Could it be you've not selected 'Off' on the LCD panel?


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (9 Jun 2017)

I've not got power on, is that why?


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## sight-pin (9 Jun 2017)

No, I just thought the motor could be kicking in if it's showing eco, normal or sport rather than off on the LCD screen.


----------



## sight-pin (9 Jun 2017)

Only had mine delivered today, (2016 version) took it out the front for a quick check.......What a buzz, weird feeling.,
Still have the clear handlebar protector on ATM.


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (9 Jun 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Only had mine delivered today, (2016 version) took it out the front for a quick check.......What a buzz, weird feeling.,
> Still have the clear handlebar protector on ATM.


Wait for your first steep hill


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## Pale Rider (10 Jun 2017)

Some Bosch crank drive bikes turn themselves on if pushed backwards for a few wheel revolutions.

By 'turning themselves on', I mean the display illuminates - the motor doesn't switch on.

There's mention of it in the handbook, so it's a design quirk rather than a fault.


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## sight-pin (10 Jun 2017)

Anyone fitted a kickstand yet, can't seem to locate one on the Giant site: I think it's 17 mm bolt holes in the chainstay?
Also i'm now looking for insurance recommendation as my home policy doesn't cover E bikes it seems,
Velosure seems the cheapest coming up at £164 including personal accident etc.


----------



## Pale Rider (10 Jun 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Anyone fitted a kickstand yet, can't seem to locate one on the Giant site: I think it's 17 mm bolt holes in the chainstay?
> Also i'm now looking for insurance recommendation as my home policy doesn't cover E bikes it seems,
> Velosure seems the cheapest coming up at £164 including personal accident etc.



I'd be surprised if there's kick stand mounts on the chainstay, given it's a road frame.

You may be stuck with a universal kickstand.

It will do the job, but won't look quite as neat.

An ebike is heavy, so a stand that's sturdy and can be braced against the seatstay is what's required.

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/hebie-side-stand-672-26-28-black-27579/wg_id-53


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (10 Jun 2017)

That was the cheapest insurance I could find as well, cost more than my motor bike


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## sight-pin (11 Jun 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> I'd be surprised if there's kick stand mounts on the chainstay, given it's a road frame.
> 
> You may be stuck with a universal kickstand.
> 
> ...



Yeah i see what your saying, probably look a bit naff on a road bike anyway. 
Although the Giant Quick E+ has one fitted on the two bolt mounting, It's exactly the same frame but just configured as a Hybrid version
https://electricbikereview.com/giant/quick-e-plus/


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## Pale Rider (11 Jun 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Yeah i see what your saying, probably look a bit naff on a road bike anyway.
> Although the Giant Quick E+ has one fitted on the two bolt mounting, It's exactly the same frame but just configured as a Hybrid version
> https://electricbikereview.com/giant/quick-e-plus/



I see it's also got those combined mudguards and pannier racks.

In the absence of anything about a kickstand for your bike on the Giant website you could try a Giant Store if there's one nearby.

They might be able to shed a bit more light on it, or may have a hybrid for you to look at.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (12 Jun 2017)

Over the weekend my bike while riding up to 25kph is making a ratchet type noise from the crank.
When i get past 25 it stops?
Took it to my dealer and there going to test it then speak to Giant.
Not heard the noise before.?


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## sight-pin (12 Jun 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> I see it's also got those combined mudguards and pannier racks.
> 
> In the absence of anything about a kickstand for your bike on the Giant website you could try a Giant Store if there's one nearby.
> 
> They might be able to shed a bit more light on it, or may have a hybrid for you to look at.



Good idea. 
Looks like my nearest Giant is Chelmsford, according to the above link, the stand is called a " Ursus Adjustable Length Kickstand"
I'll give them a call see what they say tomorrow.


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## sight-pin (12 Jun 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Over the weekend my bike while riding up to 25kph is making a ratchet type noise from the crank.
> When i get past 25 it stops?
> Took it to my dealer and there going to test it then speak to Giant.
> Not heard the noise before.?



Hope you get it sorted. 
On the 50 cog about mid range my chain is rubbing the front derailleur, makes a horrible sound, no problem when on the 34, but then noticed i can't select 28 and 32 gears at all, I'll stick it on the stand and check the adjustments: If not I'll give the shop a call, trouble is i bought from a shop up country so meh!
Also had to adjust my front brake caliper as that was rubbing.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (12 Jun 2017)

Yes I had a few problems selecting gears at the start.
It's a pity they don't spend a few minutes setting the bike up right before you get it .
I suppose that's customer service now a days


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (16 Jun 2017)

Had a call back from dealer today about the Rachet noise I was getting. 
They have found the chain rings are worped & while testing they found the headstock was making a cranking noise, so the tried the forks in another bike & it still did it.
They called giant U.K. & they found it odd but are replacing all parts under warranty but for the forks i have to wait around 5 weeks.
I said to them that's the best part of the summer gone, they should give me a new bike.
He said they would but there is none in the country.
Should I be looking for compensation?.


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## sight-pin (16 Jun 2017)

That's not good. Hope they sort it out soon...........Bet they have plenty of 2017 versions.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (16 Jun 2017)

Yes just had a look on there website, can have one in 1-2 business days.


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## Pale Rider (16 Jun 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Had a call back from dealer today about the Rachet noise I was getting.
> They have found the chain rings are worped & while testing they found the headstock was making a cranking noise, so the tried the forks in another bike & it still did it.
> They called giant U.K. & they found it odd but are replacing all parts under warranty but for the forks i have to wait around 5 weeks.
> I said to them that's the best part of the summer gone, they should give me a new bike.
> ...



Presumably the bike is still usable while you wait for the new forks.

If so, I think you have been given a reasonable resolution.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (16 Jun 2017)

No bike is not safe to ride.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (21 Jun 2017)

Good News
I gave giant uk a call yesterday expressing my disappointment in having to wait 5 weeks for the forks & asking why won't they give me a new bike?.
Well I have just had a call from my dealer & a new bike is on the way.
They don't know If I'm getting the same model or the latest walk assist version...


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (26 Jun 2017)

Picked up bike tonight & they have given me the latest model, few changes from last bike are quick release wheels. 
Cables have been tidied up around the head stock.
The dealer thought the forks look a bit different as well?.
They also said that the trek side stand will fit to the threaded holes by calliper for £16


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## Pale Rider (26 Jun 2017)

Good result all round.

A bolt on stand is a much better job than a clamp one.

My Riese and Muller ebike has a Pletscher stand which appears to be mounted the same way.

Seems like there may be some standardisation of stand mounts, rather like disc brakes.

The Trek stand in the shop would be fine, but you might like to have a root around to find one with an adjustable length leg.

Ebikes are heavy, so the leg length is a bit more critical than with a push bike.


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## sight-pin (26 Jun 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Picked up bike tonight & they have given me the latest model



Nice one .
I emailed Giant about the kickstand last week, they sent me a reply saying It's this one and can order it from our local Giant store, '1751-R81-01V kickstand'

Edit: Link > http://jumpsport.sk/produkt/106922/stojanek-kickstand-ursus-wave-r81-blk-rear-mount-2-bolts This is the same picture of it they emailed.


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## sight-pin (27 Jun 2017)

I think i found potential problem with the SyncDrive motor? I can't eliminate chain contact with the derailleur when in 50/11 ish.
Their seems to be what i would say is excessive endfloat with the motor crankshaft. I've noticed that when your right foot is on the power stroke the shaft moves out (slightly) causing the derailleur contact that's not apparent when Not under power of the motor (on the stand).
It's even noticeable in the video that @Foghat linked here at around the 17.50 mark showing the noise on the right foot power stroke.
I would say i have at least 1/64 or more play when pushing the crank in an out........ Any comments about this? Is this normal do you know?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Jun 2017)

Is it to do with warped drive sprockets Ike was found on mine?.


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## sight-pin (27 Jun 2017)

The chainrings look straight, if that's what you mean? But if i hold the crank arm where it attaches by the crank bolt to the motor, i can slide it back an forth a little.
I know their has to be some play there but looks a bit too much to me?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Jun 2017)

Best take it back to dealer I think.


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## sight-pin (27 Jun 2017)

Trouble is i bought it from a dealer online half way up country, If i contact Giant that's probably what they'll suggest, i'm quite happy with it, it's just the chain contacting the derailleur that's the problem. Don't fancy having to box it all up etc lol


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## Foghat (27 Jun 2017)

sight-pin said:


> I think i found potential problem with the SyncDrive motor? I can't eliminate chain contact with the derailleur when in 50/11 ish.
> Their seems to be what i would say is excessive endfloat with the motor crankshaft. I've noticed that when your right foot is on the power stroke the shaft moves out (slightly) causing the derailleur contact that's not apparent when Not under power of the motor (on the stand).
> It's even noticeable in the video that @Foghat linked here at around the 17.50 mark showing the noise on the right foot power stroke.
> I would say i have at least 1/64 or more play when pushing the crank in an out........ Any comments about this? Is this normal do you know?



Mine has a small amount of play too. And another unridden brand new Road E+ 1 I've seen. So it looks to be 'normal'.

My front derailleur started rubbing the chain quite badly when in the 50t chainring, after a couple of hundred miles, and had rubbed less noisily in 50-11 right from the start - after riding a while, the bedding-in of the gear cables had created some slack that needed taking up with the inline front gear cable adjuster, and the rear derailleur adjuster.

Increasing the front gear cable tension with the inline adjuster did eliminate the rubbing in the 50t ring, but only after I had also altered the throw range of the derailleur with the high limit screw.....and it left it rubbing unavoidably in the 34t instead.

The inline adjusters fitted by Giant are not particularly well designed and are quite hard work to unscrew enough to get enough tension into the cable - I had to adjust it all the way down with the cable disconnected, then pull the cable by hand+pliers as hard as physically possible to get as much pre-tension into it before clamping with the cable bolt, and then screw the adjuster right out to get the required high tension to stop the rubbing in the 50t.

The outer limit screw needed to be let out a bit more so that the derailleur could travel far enough out to not rub with the highest achievable cable tension. The throw range of the RS685/105-5800 lever/derailleur system is a bit limited and not ideal for use with the pulley that inverts the cable direction to the front derailleur. The convoluted route around the pulley, and the associated friction, introduces cable action resistance to the derailleur's downshift, and because the high limit has to be adjusted further out, the downshift to the first trim point is compromised, and it tends to struggle if there is any power going through the chain. So downshifts under a degree of power, that 5800 and Ultegra 6800 derailleurs can cope with easily without penalty when not combined with an inverting pulley, are now more difficult, and often require also shifting again, to the lowest trim point, to get the chain to change rings. And rubbing will probably be switched to the 34t and the lowest gears.

Obviously this is not ideal, but I'm pretty sure the pulley, and its effect on cable resistance to downshifting, is a key element of the difficult-to-escape rubbing problem. In practice, I very rarely need to change down to the 34t ring due to the considerable extra power the bike gives me on hills, so it doesn't bother me too much - not rubbing in the 50t is far more important as I spend 100% of my commute in it! As a perfectionist in the mechanics of my various bikes though, and never suffering this on any others, it does irritate slightly.

I've also bought some better quality Shimano inline adjusters that look like they'll be easier to adjust, and will install them when the gear cable outers need changing.

I have another bike with a Dura-Ace 9000 gear set, also with an inverting pulley (different pulley design to the Giant's), and had none of the problems discussed above, so it seems to be peculiar to the system Giant has adopted on the Road E+.

In short, you should be able to adjust the rubbing in the 50t out on your Road E+, but downshifting to the 34t may well be slightly compromised by the high cable tension needed, and the chain will probably rub in the 34t and lowest gears instead (but this isn't as noisy or annoying as in the 50t and highest gears).


----------



## Foghat (27 Jun 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> I see those GCN boys have been testing a Giant ebike against a road bike in the Dolomites.
> 
> The performance of the ebike was impressive, but that had a lot to do with a fit, light rider.
> 
> ...




That's a great video! And yes, on a ride with that much elevation gain (3,113m) over that distance (106km), Matt Stephens must have used Eco mode and relied on his own fitness/strength quite a lot to have 15% battery charge left at the end.

Interesting to see the recommendation for using on tough commutes.......


----------



## sight-pin (27 Jun 2017)

Foghat said:


> Mine has a small amount of play too. And another unridden brand new Road E+ 1 I've seen. So it looks to be 'normal'.
> 
> My front derailleur started rubbing the chain quite badly when in the 50t chainring, after a couple of hundred miles, and had rubbed less noisily in 50-11 right from the start - after riding a while, the bedding-in of the gear cables had created some slack that needed taking up with the inline front gear cable adjuster, and the rear derailleur adjuster.
> 
> ...



Many thanks for the reassurance with this, in that the play looks to be normal (breathes a sigh of relief*) and your gear advice. I've noticed the same thing with loosing the 34 gear in order to eliminate the contact, even with the extra throw the gear lever can offer when dropping down to 34 it's still not enough.
As for the "inline adjusters" mine just seem to be very tight to move and not do very much at all, TBH i wasn't sure that's what they was lol. 
It could definitely do with a cable adjuster where the outer cable ends on the seat tube.

Had a bad back the last few days so not been out on the bike, It's eased off a bit this afternoon, i could of had another bash at adjusting the chain contact out but it's been blasted raining...typical!


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Jun 2017)

Great post foghat, I had numerous problems with both 50t & 34t & chain rubbing front derailleur especially when trying to put some power down.
I'm not that good at adjusting & tweaking so luckily for me the dealer is 5 minute ride away & there always keen to help.
This new bike now seems to be set up better than my first so all good at the moment.


----------



## sight-pin (27 Jun 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Great post foghat, I had numerous problems with both 50t & 34t & chain rubbing front derailleur especially when trying to put some power down.
> I'm not that good at adjusting & tweaking so luckily for me the dealer is 5 minute ride away & there always keen to help.
> This new bike now seems to be set up better than my first so all good at the moment.



That's good to hear mate, Enjoy


----------



## Foghat (27 Jun 2017)

sight-pin said:


> As for the "inline adjusters" mine just seem to be very tight to move and not do very much at all, TBH i wasn't sure that's what they was lol.
> It could definitely do with a cable adjuster where the outer cable ends on the seat tube.



Yes, they are very tight, and need unscrewing for hours before having an effect on cable tension. Poor choice by Giant, given decent adjusters do actually exist.

Anyway, I've got my eye on the latest iteration of Ultegra (8000). The new front derailleur apparently has a built-in cable tension adjustment capability, eliminating the need for an inline adjuster.

I'm sure the Shimano adjusters I've bought (SM-BA01) will do a better job, with more effective and easier adjustability, than the low quality ones selected by Giant. But if necessary, an upgrade to an Ultegra 8000 front derailleur, when available, will always be an option.....


----------



## sight-pin (27 Jun 2017)

Foghat said:


> I've got my eye on the latest iteration of Ultegra (8000). The new front derailleur apparently has a built-in cable tension adjustment capability, eliminating the need for an inline adjuster.
> 
> I'm sure the Shimano adjusters I've bought (SM-BA01) will do a better job, with more effective and easier adjustability, than the low quality ones selected by Giant. But if necessary, an upgrade to an Ultegra 8000 front derailleur, when available, will always be an option.....



Good idea, I'll keep that in mind, It'll definitely be worth the upgrade.
Thing is when you put the bike on the stand, you can't put it under load to allow the motor to kick in, so the gear adjustment works fine, it's just a matter of trial 
and error.


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (29 Jun 2017)

Bit pricey 
http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-r8000-groupset-172-5mm-34-50-11-32/


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## sight-pin (6 Jul 2017)

Finally managed to adjust the front derailleur, no noise at last.



Giantbadge said:


> Bit pricey
> http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-r8000-groupset-172-5mm-34-50-11-32/



I think the front derailleur works at around the £50 mark, but while it's now not broke i won't bother yet.


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (12 Jul 2017)

Battery is going well 72 miles & 45% still left.


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Jul 2017)

Went out in light rain last Saturday & then put battery on charge for the Sunday ride.
When I got to the bike in the morning the screen was on which was strange as it didn't happen on old bike, then when I tried to turn bike off it wouldn't ?.
So went for my ride & when i got back it still wouldn't turn off so I had to take battery off.
I've been on holiday this week so when I get back tomorrow I hope it will be back to normal.
Anyone else had a problem??.


----------



## sight-pin (22 Jul 2017)

Maybe the screen or switch got a little damp inside due to the rain.
Not been out in the rain myself, only a very light short drop once.
You could do a search on google to see if you can find a similar problem. Let us know if it still comes on upon your return.

Edit: Out of interest, did you have the bigger rectangular screen with your 2016 version?


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Jul 2017)

I've now got the 2017, wouldn't say it got really wet as only went out for an hour.


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## sight-pin (3 Aug 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> I've now got the 2017, wouldn't say it got really wet as only went out for an hour.



What was the result when you returned, screen still the same?


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (3 Aug 2017)

sight-pin said:


> What was the result when you returned, screen still the same?


Well after a week away I tried the battery back in & still bike wouldn't switch off.
So I thought what the hell I took it out for an hour & when I got it switch off.
Not had a problem since touch wood, I also lost about 30 miles off the odd meter as well which was strange.
Will be charging again this weekend so hope all will be good.
I found coming home last night that when going over 16mph I turned power to off & the bike seemed to ride a lot smoother.


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (19 Aug 2017)

Not getting much luck with this bike, while out riding after around 8 miles the bottom half of the screen would go white.
The lads at the shop took it out & same result so they have ordered a new screen.
Also a few weeks ago the head stock was making a real loud creeking noise, they stripped it down & found there was no grease at all on bearings or steam.


----------



## sight-pin (19 Aug 2017)

I developed a creaking noise from the head tube after the first couple of rides, then it just disappeared after: although it was apparent for a another couple of rides before it did. I did suspect a lack of grease after checking the head bolt for tightness and felt for any play in the head set.

Isn't the screen detachable with the new 2017 version?


----------



## TyrannosaurusTreks (19 Aug 2017)

Don't think so, it's bolted on & it still has a cable running down to motor where connections are.
They have ordered new one due in next week so I'm back on my defy 4 for now.


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## Pale Rider (19 Aug 2017)

I think the Yamaha screen is detachable on bikes which use all Yamaha components.

Giant use the Yamaha motor, but their own screen which by the look of it is not detachable.

Probably.


----------



## proton666 (1 Sep 2017)

Just picked mine up. It’s a 2018 model (well, here anyway) but looks the same as the 2017 photos I have seen on this site.

Dealer says the big change is in the the motor. It can better assist at higher RPMs (cadence) now, so he says (he was unable to giving any details however). Haven’t had time to put that fully to the test yet. (I’m one of those lucky Bas#$@s who lives in California so I get assist up to 27 MPH (43 KPH)).

But, I’m having a bit of a problem with the Giant dealer network out here. Basically, no one selling this bike can answer some rather basic questions.

I have combed the Giant site for a user and or shop manual but the information is a bit rudimentary so I’m connecting with other owners for some help. 

Like, why is there a USB port on the control panel? To downloading / uploading information (if so how)? And / or to charge the control panel ( isn’t it connected to the onboard battery pack? Is it so the control panel doesn’t die when the bike battery is removed (i.e. no flash memory)?)

Basic wheel axial specifications ( I want to go off road, cyclocross, this winter and want a second set of wheels to do that with). The quick release skewers look a bit different from my other bikes so I’m bit paranoid about buying wheels that my not be compatible or potentially unsafe.

More in-depth explanation of the workings of the speed / torque control system. Like what sensor gathers what input and how? Great to have this knowledge so when you get an error, or assistance stops during a ride because you throw a magnet for example, you can fix it before it become a bigger problem.

I can do a lot of this with a set of calipers and deduce others though trial and error but sure would be handy if it was available from Giant so I could just print it out and stick it to the wall by the bike for reference.

Maybe I should just chill and let my Giant dealer deal with it (I’m not use to buying a built bike. In the past I have always assembled my own) but if they can’t answer the question in the first place where do they go to get the answer?


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## Pale Rider (2 Sep 2017)

The Yamaha motor uses speed, cadence and torque sensors.

The speed sensor is activated by a spoke magnet on the rear wheel which passes the sensor on the chainstay - all of which will be visible.

You will need a second magnet if you change the rear wheel.

It's also easy to knock the magnet out of alignment when porting the bike, so that's the first thing to check if the system acts up.

The cadence and torque sensors are inside the motor casing, so you can't see or tinker with those.

The display has an inernal battery which will last for years and/or be charged from the main bike battery.

It's unlikley you will have any problem with the display, unless you leave the bike unusued for months and months at a time.


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## sight-pin (2 Sep 2017)

IIRC, I think the USB is for charging your mobile phone etc.


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## Pale Rider (2 Sep 2017)

sight-pin said:


> IIRC, I think the USB is for charging your mobile phone etc.



On Bosch bikes the USB is dual function, a low voltage power output and also a diagnostic port which dealers with the software on their laptops can use to upgrade the bike's software, and also fault find and access the bike's history in terms of the number of recharges and the like.

The Yamaha system may be similar although I don't know if it is or not.


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## sight-pin (2 Sep 2017)

Don't have a USB on Mine (2016 model). I'm just wondering if i could change the speed rating/Maybe wheel size with a different combination of buttons pressed.


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## proton666 (2 Sep 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> On Bosch bikes the USB is dual function, a low voltage power output and also a diagnostic port which dealers with the software on their laptops can use to upgrade the bike's software, and also fault find and access the bike's history in terms of the number of recharges and the like.
> 
> The Yamaha system may be similar although I don't know if it is or not.



Hmmmm… So, if suddenly my local rules change (for better or worse) the dealer could potentially alter my assist level through the USB port?

I asked my local dealer about the UBS thing today and he was, as usual, less than enlightened on the matter. Going back in on Tuesday to ask the weekday crew.

Another question my dealer has not be able to answer is if the power pack comes in different sizes. I read somewhere that there are 500wh, 400wh and 300wh versions (unclear if they fit the Road-e). I would love to get a lighter 300wh one as a back-up to carry along on a few brutal rides I have in mind that could exhaust the 500wh pack alone.


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## Pale Rider (2 Sep 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Don't have a USB on Mine (2016 model). I'm just wondering if i could change the speed rating/Maybe wheel size with a different combination of buttons pressed.



If you mean make it assist above 15.5mph, then telling it you are running smaller wheels than you are - if that's possible - may do that.

A better solution would be a dongle, the Badass ones work well but they do scramble the speedo/odometer.

Not a problem if you use another device such as a Garmin.

https://www.badassebikes.com/



proton666 said:


> Hmmmm… So, if suddenly my local rules change (for better or worse) the dealer could potentially alter my assist level through the USB port?
> 
> I asked my local dealer about the UBS thing today and he was, as usual, less than enlightened on the matter. Going back in on Tuesday to ask the weekday crew.
> 
> Another question my dealer has not be able to answer is if the power pack comes in different sizes. I read somewhere that there are 500wh, 400wh and 300wh versions (unclear if they fit the Road-e). I would love to get a lighter 300wh one as a back-up to carry along on a few brutal rides I have in mind that could exhaust the 500wh pack alone.



It may be possible to change the assist level and cut off point via the USB port and appropriate software on a laptop.

Knowledge among dealers of this type of stuff does not appear to be widespread.

There are lots of dealers in the UK who sell Bosch bikes, but many don't have the Bosch diagnostic software on a laptop.

All the dealer can do is ring the Bosch service centre and send bits of the bike off for service or replacement.


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## sight-pin (3 Sep 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> If you mean make it assist above 15.5mph, then telling it you are running smaller wheels than you are - if that's possible - may do that.
> 
> A better solution would be a dongle, the Badass ones work well but they do scramble the speedo/odometer.
> 
> ...



Yeah I'd really like to increase it a little, the 15.5 assist is a too low, I'd just like a little more speed around 18 mph ish before cut off would be good.... A couple of seconds after pulling away i'm at the no assist level on the flat most times.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (3 Sep 2017)

The USB will charge phone, lights & gps, when I asked when picking up bike about adjusting speed limit they didn't think it could be done through USB port but until the law changes over here they won't say yes or no.
With this unit being cambus I would think there is adjustment there.
I will say with Giant I've had a few early problems where I had my first bike replaced with the 2017 model then I had to have the dash unit changed, I have never had such good warranty work done.


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## proton666 (3 Sep 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> If you mean make it assist above 15.5mph, then telling it you are running smaller wheels than you are - if that's possible - may do that.
> 
> A better solution would be a dongle, the Badass ones work well but they do scramble the speedo/odometer.
> 
> ...



Kinda neat if someone was to jail brake it via the USB port.

The motor already has a torque sensor so it could be like having a mini built in PowerTap letting you see / graph your work contribution and generally giving you a more accurate picture of your workout for example.

Obviously, fine tuning the assist level would be great too especially since you would be able to add or subtract just a bit to the assist limit (say 4 or 5 mph) where as all the dongle options I have seen simply doubles the assist limit (great but…).

Not holding my breath. Few people ride these things let a lone hack them.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (7 Sep 2017)

Been pushing my speed up the last month trying to stay around 18-19
mph, passed these 3 riders quite easily on the flat.
When we got to a junction up the road one of them said looking at my bike I bet that helps, my reply was only on the hills.
You could see in his face yeah right, I suppose the Real riders think electric bike means no work?. 
I do think the giant is a lovely stable bike to ride & seems to glide smoothly on the road.


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## sight-pin (8 Sep 2017)

IT can be hard work pushing past the assistance when against wind etc, I'm normally too out of breath some times.

Just been looking at battery charging and noticed this below: Do you think It'll be ok to discharge the battery over a few days. I only road 15 miles yesterday and still have 82 or more % left (mainly sport mode) My usual ride is 20 ish miles 3 or 4 times a week. but bit worried about leaving it not charged whilst discharging for over the week. It's bleeding raining here today

"Should I always empty my EnergyPak completely before recharging?
• There is no need to do complete discharge every time. Complete discharge every 3 months is
appreciated for refreshing EnergyPak management."


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## Pale Rider (8 Sep 2017)

Ebike batteries give the best service life if recharged regularly and used 'from full' as often as possible.

Recharging after every ride, unless it was literally only a mile or two, is the best policy.

But running it down over a few rides over a week won't make much difference.

As your instructions say, running the battery until the motor cuts out is worth doing every few months.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (8 Sep 2017)

I'm finding my battery is still giving me 130 plus I try to get down to 10% then charge fully, so maybe I should charge more often as I try to get in 50miles a week when time & weather lets me.
So to discharge I run battery flat while out or is there another way?.


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## sight-pin (8 Sep 2017)

I've been charging mine about twice a week after 2 rides, roughly 60% left.
I don't use eco mode, find it too hard, may as well ride my normal road bike . I use sport mode most, my elevation is between 700-1000 ish feet in 20 miles.
If i was to ride in 'normal' i recon I'd get 80-100 miles per charge depending weather.

Edit: Lowest I've let it go is 44% left the battery.


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## Pale Rider (8 Sep 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> I'm finding my battery is still giving me 130 plus I try to get down to 10% then charge fully, so maybe I should charge more often as I try to get in 50miles a week when time & weather lets me.
> So to discharge I run battery flat while out or is there another way?.



The only safe way is to 'flatten' the battery is to use the bike until the motor cuts out.

Strictly, there will still be some juice in the battery, but batteries can be damaged by deep discharge so the electronics of the bike prevents you from damaging the battery.


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## sight-pin (8 Sep 2017)

Wouldn't like to be the wrong side of the hills when it switches off 
I've have Li-ion batteries in my drill since 2007 i think it is, still fine and fully charge ok, I would of thought that these batteries would be similar.


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## Pale Rider (8 Sep 2017)

No reports of Yamaha batteries conking out, but the system is still relatively new.

Some of the cheaper Chinese ebike batteries won't hold a useful amount of charge after two or three years.

Indications are Bosch and Yamaha will last longer than that.

My oldest Bosch batteries are coming up to five years.

Still holding as much charge as they ever did, but inevitably decline will happen at some point.


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## jagar (8 Sep 2017)

I bought a Giant Road E 2018 a few weeks ago and use it for commuting to work 3-4 days a week (~40-60 miles roundtrip) and after ~700 miles I have to say that I am pretty happy with it with a few caveats.

I am a little disappointed with the range, as I get under 40 miles on normal mode (I cross the Bay Area, so it is mostly flat with a few hills). My commute is 22miles each way, so I can't make it back home in normal mode with a single charge. Furthermore I live on the top of a very steep hill so I have to ride at least 10-15miles on Eco (or power off) in order to have enough juice to make my last hill (I usually get home with 000 miles of Range / 5% or less battery).

I noted the milage is very depending on the way you ride. I have pretty strong legs as I do 4000+ miles a year (both road and MTB) and on my first ride with the Road-E I killed 70% of the battery in just 22 miles (no major hills) as I rode the e-bike the same way I used to ride my regular road bike (i.e. putting a lot of leg power to get top speed as soon as possible after a traffic light, sprinting uphill, etc)

I am looking for information on how to "hack" the display as I am really interested on showing the readings of the power meter, and wattage the engine power uses so I can fine-tune my riding to get the most miles out of it.

I bought my bike in Bike Connection of Palo Alto, and they didn't seem to have a lot of technical insight into the bike other than the basics of regular operation. They told me the USB in the display allows powering small electronics (haven't tried if it can charge my iPhone yet). Seems the battery, and charger are both made by Yamaha (like the engine) and there is a shortage of batteries and power supplies so you have to pay upfront before they order one for you (the 500W Battery is supposed to cost around $1,000 and the power supply $150)

I tried buying a generic power supply in Amazon (http://amzn.to/2xj2oLt) but it didn't charge the Giant EnergyPak 500 battery (the Amazon seller thinks the Giant battery may have some electronics which prevent a generic charger from charging the battery)

Hope this helps other people!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (10 Sep 2017)

Is the bike restricted to 25mph? If so it's possible after 44 miles if it's hilly but I would expect more out of it.
In the U.K. We're restricted to 15mph so our battery last at least double that.
I don't think you will be able to to hack the screen, maybe when it's been around a bit longer & as to USB lights & phone charging is possible.


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## sight-pin (10 Sep 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Is the bike restricted to 25mph?



I recon your correct there with being in California.


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## proton666 (11 Sep 2017)

jagar said:


> on my first ride with the Road-E I killed 70% of the battery in just 22 miles (no major hills) as I rode the e-bike the same way I used to ride my regular road bike (i.e. putting a lot of leg power to get top speed as soon as possible after a traffic light, sprinting uphill, etc)



Got mine at the same place (we should start an "E" club lol).

My first ride was about 50% eco, 50% normal and I did the "loop" (26 miles (average speed was about 17 MPH)).

Did not recharge and set out a day later and did Page Mill Road up to Moody (normal mode), back down to Arastradero via Page Mill (eco mode / some off mode too), over to Alpine, took Alpine all the way up to dirt Alpine then took it to the point where you have to exit the fire road and go onto that dicy trail bypass (normal mode), turned around and looped home (downtown Palo Alto) via Alpine (mostly normal with a bit of eco mode). In all 32 miles that day (average speed was about 18 MPH with about 1500 to 1700 vertical feet of climbing).

So in total that's 58 miles with a fairly even split of eco and normal mode and I still had 26% left on the battery. 

I switch it off on any decent that will take me close to 25 MPH because at that speed the assist really isn't . 

So you must be crushing it to be able to suck out 70% in just 22 miles! What was your average speed?


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## sight-pin (13 Sep 2017)

The display showed just 16 left this morning so went for a very local ride to run the battery down. Very windy but was no problem with the drive in sport mode apart from the gust taking my front wheel now and then. Just after the display was showing '4' it cut out at 7.3 miles with a 463ft ascent, lucky enough only a few hundred yards from home.
Managed 62 miles in 'Sport' mode with an ascent of 2500ft in total: battery now on charge.


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## kcflyer1957 (15 Sep 2017)

I've had mine about about 3 months now and I've ridden about 650 miles on it. I usually ride about half eco/half "normal" mode. I've not used power much all except to show off on uphills. I usually ride 30 to 35 miles per ride and I have about 55% battery life at the end of the ride. Sometimes I will switch the system off...it is pretty easy to maintain 18 to 20 mph on flats without an assist. I have ridden road and gravel - upgraded the tires to Schwalbe Marathons and increased the size to 38. The dash tells me that I have a range of about 100 miles in eco mode and I think it could most likely do that if I kept it in eco all the time.


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## Mavverick (16 Sep 2017)

proton666 said:


> Got mine at the same place (we should start an "E" club lol).
> 
> My first ride was about 50% eco, 50% normal and I did the "loop" (26 miles (average speed was about 17 MPH)).
> 
> ...



I'm in the Bay Area as well, Road E 2017 model. I'm also a little surprised at the range jagar is getting. I did a 40 mile ride around downtown Oakland, up Grizzly Peak, to Skyline and got home with 35% battery left.


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## proton666 (16 Sep 2017)

Mavverick said:


> I'm in the Bay Area as well, Road E 2017 model. I'm also a little surprised at the range jagar is getting. I did a 40 mile ride around downtown Oakland, up Grizzly Peak, to Skyline and got home with 35% battery left.



Hey, do you remember what your power settings were on that ride?


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## kcflyer1957 (16 Sep 2017)

I usually do most of my rides in eco...occasionally changing to normal mode on longer hills/inclines. I'm in Kansas and believe it or not we DO have hills here. Not as much scenery as there is in the SF Bay area, but pretty in it's own way. Today I put it in normal mode for the entire ride, except for about 5 miles on a hike/bike trail...normal is far too fast for that. I rode just under 30 miles at an average speed of 19 mph. Total climb as 1300 feet. The battery has about 25% left, so I would have to concur with jagar - 40 miles on normal mode would be tough to do. The computer says it has a range of about 75 miles in normal mode on a full charge, but I'd really like to understand the riding style it uses to calculate that range. My "style" was that I felt like I was riding a bike, but I wasn't killing myself to average almost 20 mph, so it was apparently providing quite a bit of assist.


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## Mavverick (17 Sep 2017)

proton666 said:


> Hey, do you remember what your power settings were on that ride?



Primarily in ECO (about 85% of the ride) and bumping it to POWER for some climbs.


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## sight-pin (21 Sep 2017)

Anyone know what the threaded hole is for at the back of the crankcase nearest to the rear tyre?
Looks to go right through into the case, I'm just wondering about water splashing off the tyre.
Do you have a plug of some description in the hole?


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## kellis (21 Sep 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Anyone know what the threaded hole is for at the back of the crankcase nearest to the rear tyre?
> Looks to go right through into the case, I'm just wondering about water splashing off the tyre.
> Do you have a plug of some description in the hole?


hi i am new to this forum i have had my giant road e for about 1 month now and i love it i have used the hole you are asking about to secure my rear mudguard


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## sight-pin (21 Sep 2017)

kellis said:


> hi i am new to this forum i have had my giant road e for about 1 month now and i love it i have used the hole you are asking about to secure my rear mudguard



Hi @kellis and welcome to the forum.
Thanks for the info, Out of interest can i ask what mudguards did you use? think I'll fit a pair now winters almost here.


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## kellis (22 Sep 2017)

i fitted the Bontrager NCS Road Mudguards they retail for about £40 I have used these on other bikes and they are well made and easy to fit


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## proton666 (24 Sep 2017)

Saw this a few days ago and kinda laughed (Selle Royal eBike specific seat). Seemed like a classic case of pandering to a niche market. But I put the bike into power mode for the first time today and got that “Sweet Jesus!” moment. I actually did slip right off the back of my seat. May need a closer look.


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## sight-pin (1 Oct 2017)

Just looking at the price drop for the 2017 version on the Winstanleys Bikes site (where i purchased my 2016 version from). And i noticed that evidently you can't use the 2017 battery on a 2016 bike or vice versa according to what is being said here>
https://www.winstanleysbikes.co.uk/product/81285/Giant_RoadE_1_2017_Electric_Bike
Just wondering if the future supply of the 2016 battery will be very limited?

Edit: From googling about: The 2017 battery has 3 charging pins connection and 5 electrodes bike connection where the 2016 one is 5 charging pins and just 3 electrode bike connection.
I think the latest 2018 bike still has the same connection as 2017.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (1 Oct 2017)

kellis said:


> i fitted the Bontrager NCS Road Mudguards they retail for about £40 I have used these on other bikes and they are well made and easy to fit



I am looking for a set for my road e.
Do these rattle on the road as I have a set of giant one’s on my defy 4 & they are a pain.
Any pic’s would be good.


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## proton666 (1 Oct 2017)

sight-pin said:


> From googling about: The 2017 battery has 3 charging pins connection and 5 electrodes bike connection where the 2016 one is 5 charging pins and just 3 electrode bike connection.
> I think the latest 2018 bike still has the same connection as 2017.



I have the 2018 version and it also has 3 charging pins connection but 6 electrodes bike connection ( may just be a US market thing ). Sounding like each year may have it's own vintage. I will buy another battery to lay down if the 2019 version is specific to it's year as well.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (7 Oct 2017)

Tyre pressures, I’m on 80psi just wondered what the rest of you are on.


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## sight-pin (8 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Tyre pressures, I’m on 80psi just wondered what the rest of you are on.



I pump them up to 65psi, I'm only a small guy around the 9 to 9'5 stone mind. Even then i find it a little harsh ride, maybe i should just pump them up to the lowest they say 55lbs.
Found a slow puncture in the rear tyre last week, at least i had just arrived home when i noticed the soft tyre, blasted thorn!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (8 Oct 2017)

I’m 14.5 st I do find it a bit hard on our bumpy roads.
Went out for a couple hrs this morning & caught up with a group of 6 riders taking up the whole road (idiots) we were doing 22mph on the flat then turned off which then had a nice hill, so I followed them for a bit then decided to over take them I was doing 17.5mph & they called me a cheat .
I replied I only get help to 15mph !!!!!.


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## sight-pin (8 Oct 2017)

.
Going up hills is great now, I ride up the ones i used to avoid as i had to stop 4 or 5 times completely out of breath, I now ride them all in one and not very much out of puff , lol


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## proton666 (8 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> yre pressures, I’m on 80psi just wondered what the rest of you are on.



9 stone here too (if my math is correct 130 lbs.). I run about 45 to 50 PSI but it feels like my fillings are rattling loose on rougher roads. May drop it a bit but the Road-e weighs 22+ pounds more than my R3 (effectively making me a 152+ lbs rider.. without the additional muscle mass lol) which I run at about 80psi (on 24mm tires). Kinda worried about going to low. Anyone pinch flat yet?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (11 Oct 2017)

*Thinking I might have to give up my bike*
It’s back at the shop again due to forks cranking again.
Last few weeks I have had a lot of rattles on bumpy roads & thought it was the rear brake hose going in the down tube.
I fixed that with some fuel hose, went out for a ride & when I get out of the seat riding the noise gets worse.
Stopped the bike & put front brake on & the forks are making the same noise back in my August post when they found no grease was used on assembly.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7nmrdybcv26o4cm/Video 24-07-2017, 20 49 14.mov?dl=0
They had the bike back on Sunday & called today saying they have stripped headstock apart & all bearings, shims are fine & when they put it back together it still makes the noise.
There calling giant tomorrow for advise on what to do next.
Is there a weight limit as this is a heavy?..


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## sight-pin (11 Oct 2017)

It's not the front disc slipping through the brake pads is it? that can make a similar noise.

Edit: Let me clarify this. I meant when i check for any play in the head, I hold the front brake whilst pushing the bike front and back and get a similar noise to the sound on your video, but if i squeeze the brake quite hard it stops. Just something else to rule out i was thinking.


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## kcflyer1957 (12 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Tyre pressures, I’m on 80psi just wondered what the rest of you are on.


I keep mine at about 80. I am 260 pounds and I put Schwalbe Marathon 38 on the bike because I like to ride gravel from time to time.


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## proton666 (12 Oct 2017)

Asking the wrong guy about weight, lol. I had a rattle and a cracking issue. My rattle was the power pack (fixed that with so single sided foam tape). The crack, which only happened when out of the saddle, I traced back to the seat post (as bizarre as that sounds). Hope they resolve your issue as we don’t want to lose you!


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## sight-pin (12 Oct 2017)

Any news yet? @Giantbadge


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (13 Oct 2017)

No not yet.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (13 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> No not yet.


Just found out the forks are gone again, same as my 2016 bike.
The 2018 bike has new frame and forks so the must of had a problem?.
There going to try and get me a 2018 bike.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (13 Oct 2017)

Well just had a call from my dealer & after speaking to giant technical dept they have realised there is a fault with the forks & have designed a stronger fork for this bike.
I have been asked me not to ride the bike until these come from the factory in around 2 weeks.
It sounds like there is going to be a recall on this bike for new forks so be aware or contact your dealer.
Will let you know when bike is done.


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## sight-pin (13 Oct 2017)

Blimey! that's a bit worrying. I've been touching 40's mph down hill now and again, I'll keep the speed on the hills down then until we find out for sure.
Thanks for the update.


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## Foghat (13 Oct 2017)

Tyres.

Having ridden this bike a fair amount now, I have some firm views on the subject of optimal tyre selection. Living and riding this thing in England, and commuting in all conditions on my appalIingly maintained local lane network, I've reached the conclusion that the supplied 32mm tyres are just too narrow for many of Britain's roads if tolerable comfort levels are to be achieved.

The frame is built very robustly - presumably as it's sold in some countries as a speed pedelec, with assistance to 28mph. Consequently, it is extremely stiff and unforgiving on bumpy and rough roads - so much so, that it's like riding a bucking bronco a lot of the time on my local roads. The only way to mitigate this is to use the widest tyres that will fit (with sufficient mudguard clearance), and run them at the lowest possible pressure that does not render them susceptible to pinch punctures.

Therefore, I now fit tyres around 37-38mm wide, which leaves manageable mudguard clearance (I use SKS Longboards). I don't pay much attention to numbers when inflating my tyres, preferring to judge optimal pressure by hand, but the lowest pressure I get away with is probably around 25-30psi. 80psi, as some people seem to use, would be absolutely intolerable. Running wider tyres at these lower pressures deals extremely well with the rough factor of the roads (i.e. most of the smaller wavelength irregularities), leaving big bumps/depressions in the road surface as the only limiting comfort factor.

So I have adopted the following tyre regime for my Road E+1, utilising multiple wheelsets to avoid continually taking tyres on and off:

Wheelset 1 (summer): Schwalbe Durano 38mm - side walls too thin for winter use in the dark on debris-strewn lanes, but hard-wearing with reasonable comfort and grip;
Wheelset 1 (spring/autumn/winter): Schwalbe Marathon GT 38mm - very robust, good for hedge-cutting season, but heavy and overkill for summer;
Wheelset 2 (all year round): Continental Top Contact II 37mm - excellent tread for when farmers insist on re-locating their fields to the roads (which is often), also good on leaf mulch;
Wheelset 3 (winter): Continental Top Contact II Winter Premium 37mm - winter-specific tyre (non-studded) that performs admirably on frosty/icy roads and in light snow;
Wheelset 4 (winter): Schwalbe Marathon Winter 35mm - studded, for deeper snow and severe ice.

Haven't tested wheelsets 3 and 4 in earnest yet, not having ridden the Giant through a winter, but I've ridden those tyres on other bikes previously, so know they'll work fine, ensuring I can commute by bike in all conditions. This winter should be interesting.


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## Foghat (13 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Well just had a call from my dealer & after speaking to giant technical dept they have realised there is a fault with the forks & have designed a stronger fork for this bike.
> I have been asked me not to ride the bike until these come from the factory in around 2 weeks.
> It sounds like there is going to be a recall on this bike for new forks so be aware or contact your dealer.
> Will let you know when bike is done.



Did they tell you the nature of the fault?


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## proton666 (14 Oct 2017)

Foghat said:


> So I have adopted the following tyre regime for my Road E+1, utilising multiple wheelsets



Could you tell me what the heck the rear hub spacing is on this bike? Seems like about 150mm. Looks like a standard 135mm hub with and extra long axle. Do you use wheelsets from Giant?


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## proton666 (14 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> It sounds like there is going to be a recall on this bike for new forks so be aware or contact your dealer.
> Will let you know when bike is done.



You just awoke the paranoid hippy in me! Calling my dealer tomorrow.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (14 Oct 2017)

Foghat said:


> Did they tell you the nature of the fault?


I’m not that clued up with the internals but the problem with the 2016 bike was a metal sleeve over the alloy stem was at fault.
My shop said that it was .the same problem with the 2017, it’s strange as when I spoke to them in the morning they hadn’t been able to get hold of giant support.
When I got home last night I phoned giant & got through, they said it was unfortunate to happen twice but when I asked there must be a flaw in this fork & suggested the fork needed to be stronger they said no there was no problem with the design.
Ten minutes later speaking to the shop manager they then told me totally different, I suppose giant didn’t want to be telling a costumer they have a problem with the bike.


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## sight-pin (14 Oct 2017)

Just have to wait and see what happens i suppose. The 2018 version looks to have an advanced composite fork: Is that to reduce the weight i wonder?


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## Foghat (14 Oct 2017)

I've been meaning to post photos of the rack (Tubus Logo Classic 26/28) and mudguards (SKS Longboard 45mm) that I've fitted to my Road E+1, so here are a few. Hopefully they may be of use to others considering doing the same. Load carrying is now a breeze!

The lower rack fitment holes are not particularly well designed. They necessitate using multiple washers (6 x M6) inside the seatstay cavity plus the wide spacer between the frame and rack leg, meaning a loaded rack will be exerting a hefty levering force across a sizable proportion of the bolt's 30mm length. For this reason, it is essential to use M6 rather than M5 bolts. Clearance between the nuts/bolts for the rack/mudguards and the rotor is a few mm, as the photos show.

Since the frame has no upper rack fitment holes, I've used a seat tube collar with integrated rack mounts, which reasonably elegantly deals with Giant's ridiculous omission to have dedicated frame bosses.

For the Longboard mudguards, I removed the SKS mudflaps that come fitted, as they are too stiff (meaning if the front catches on anything like a low kerb etc it will weaken and then break the front). I replaced them with long reflective RAW mudflaps, which are much better. The front flap is nice and low to the ground, helping protect feet, drivetrain and motor, but is flexible and so if catching a low kerb will just bend back a bit and not damage the mudguard. The rear acts as a good highly reflective surface shining straight back at drivers (although it appears black in daylight).

The front left mudguard stay is spaced to clear the disc brake caliper using a long M5 bolt and 4 of the very useful spacers that SKS now thankfully supplies with its Longboard mudguards.


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## Foghat (14 Oct 2017)

proton666 said:


> Could you tell me what the heck the rear hub spacing is on this bike? Seems like about 150mm. Looks like a standard 135mm hub with and extra long axle. Do you use wheelsets from Giant?



It's a standard 135mm with standard axle.

Am using Hunt 4Season Gravel wheels as the alternative to Giant's wheels, because the Hunts are backed by a full spares availability, whereas extra sets of Giant PR-2s don't appear easy to come by, and likely difficult to find spares for (e.g. freehub). When the Giant set wears out, will likely have all Hunt sets.


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## Foghat (14 Oct 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> I’m not that clued up with the internals but the problem with the 2016 bike was a metal sleeve over the alloy stem was at fault.
> My shop said that it was .the same problem with the 2017, it’s strange as when I spoke to them in the morning they hadn’t been able to get hold of giant support.
> When I got home last night I phoned giant & got through, they said it was unfortunate to happen twice but when I asked there must be a flaw in this fork & suggested the fork needed to be stronger they said no there was no problem with the design.
> Ten minutes later speaking to the shop manager they then told me totally different, I suppose giant didn’t want to be telling a costumer they have a problem with the bike.



Thanks for that, albeit somewhat concerning.

I haven't taken the fork out to see what's going on in there, but guess I may have to, but then I don't seem to have had your problem. My bike did go through two bouts of unusual-sounding creaking in the initial few weeks after purchase - I diagnosed these as the plastic frame/motor guards settling into position (the sounds didn't seem like they were coming from the headset/fork area), and the creaking disappeared some time ago.

Will be interested to hear on developments with your bike.


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## sight-pin (14 Oct 2017)

I've not fitted any mudguards yet being a fair weather rider, I was thinking of the small type we used to have on racing bikes many years back. still thinking about the smaller SKS ones.
Just noticed the mirror on your bars, Is that a Sprintech mirror? Just wondering if you can see much with them being on the small side, also with it being in such a low position to view, does it get in the way of the knees? @Foghat


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## Pale Rider (14 Oct 2017)

Foghat said:


> I've been meaning to post photos of the rack (Tubus Logo Classic 26/28) and mudguards (SKS Longboard 45mm) that I've fitted to my Road E+1, so here are a few. Hopefully they may be of use to others considering doing the same. Load carrying is now a breeze!
> 
> The lower rack fitment holes are not particularly well designed. They necessitate using multiple washers (6 x M6) inside the frame plus the wide spacer between the frame and rack leg, meaning a loaded rack will be exerting a hefty levering force across a sizable proportion of the bolt's 30mm length. For this reason, it is essential to use M6 rather than M5 bolts. Clearance between the nuts/bolts for the rack/mudguards and the rotor is a few mm, as the photos show.
> 
> ...



Class fettling - I've seen factory fit mudguards which are not as neat as yours.


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## Foghat (14 Oct 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Just noticed the mirror on your bars, Is that a Sprintech mirror? Just wondering if you can see much with them being on the small side, also with it being in such a low position to view, does it get in the way of the knees? @Foghat



Yep - Sprintech. Really useful for commuting.

The image is a bit small, but it's not much of a problem. The main limiting factor in obtaining a clear rear view is being bounced to hell on corrugated and potholed roads.

I don't find my knees/legs obscuring much of the view - certainly not a problem, but then I do ride with my knees fairly close to the frame. Bandy-leggers may find their legs blocking more.

I'd prefer the handlebar ends to be a bit shorter, bringing the mirror forward and meaning less head movement is required. The bar ends do seem pretty long compared with other handlebars in my fleet, so I may cut 30-40mm off.


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## Foghat (14 Oct 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> Class fettling - I've seen factory fit mudguards which are not as neat as yours.



Thanks - everything has to be 'just right' with all my bikes!


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## sight-pin (15 Oct 2017)

Foghat said:


> Yep - Sprintech. Really useful for commuting.
> 
> The image is a bit small, but it's not much of a problem. The main limiting factor in obtaining a clear rear view is being bounced to hell on corrugated and potholed roads.
> 
> ...



Cheers. I'll order a pair with some other bits tomorrow then.
"The main limiting factor in obtaining a clear rear view is being bounced to hell on corrugated and potholed roads.Lol,"
Certainly does bounce, Lol.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Oct 2017)

Foghat said:


> Thanks for that, albeit somewhat concerning.
> 
> I haven't taken the fork out to see what's going on in there, but guess I may have to, but then I don't seem to have had your problem. My bike did go through two bouts of unusual-sounding creaking in the initial few weeks after purchase - I diagnosed these as the plastic frame/motor guards settling into position (the sounds didn't seem like they were coming from the headset/fork area), and the creaking disappeared some time ago.
> 
> Will be interested to hear on developments with your bike.



Forks have only just left the factory that’s a funny 2 week wait.
The problem I was told today is the alloy sleeve that goes over fork stem is welded on the bottom but at the top they use a clue resin to allow bearing to slide onto.
He said that there seems to be too much play from sleeve to stem & what’s happening is the clue breaks it’s seal hence the movement & noise,
Apparently other forks are welded top & bottom.
I have spoke with them today about a refund on the bike if the bike isn’t ready next week as over the time I’ve had the 2 bikes it been in there workshop 8 weeks in total.
They are happy to refund me so that’s good, I do like the bike it’s just a shame to have all this hassle.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Oct 2017)

Had a call from the owner of bicycle chain today expressing how sorry he is with all the problems I have had & he has called the giant rep again today & it turns out giant have made a one off fork for my bike .
So I don’t know if there will be a recall on your bikes as well?.
Will post some pic’s when it turns up.
As a gesture he has offered me a bike fit free of charge & will set up both my bikes .


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## sight-pin (28 Oct 2017)

I'm sure they'll get it sorted for you, apart from the time factor of waiting for parts it looks like Giant give good after sale service.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Oct 2017)

Yes compared to Triumph who are useless.


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## kellis (2 Nov 2017)

just wondering what sort of tyre pressure every one is using in PSI please


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## Foghat (3 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> The problem I was told today is the alloy sleeve that goes over fork stem is welded on the bottom but at the top they use a clue resin to allow bearing to slide onto.
> He said that there seems to be too much play from sleeve to stem & what’s happening is the clue breaks it’s seal hence the movement & noise,
> Apparently other forks are welded top & bottom.



Thanks for the update. Hopefully your Road E+ troubles are now resolved.

By fork stem, I presume they mean the steerer tube? I guess I'm going to have to take mine apart for an inspection at some point.

By 'other forks' being welded top and bottom, do you mean other 2016/17 Road E+1 forks - i.e. your suggesting fork was unusual compared with other Road E+1s? No sign of a recall yet.


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## Foghat (3 Nov 2017)

kellis said:


> just wondering what sort of tyre pressure every one is using in PSI please



THIS is my take on tyres and pressures.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (3 Nov 2017)

Foghat said:


> Thanks for the update. Hopefully your Road E+ troubles are now resolved.
> 
> By fork stem, I presume they mean the steerer tube? I guess I'm going to have to take mine apart for an inspection at some point.
> 
> By 'other forks' being welded top and bottom, do you mean other 2016/17 Road E+1 forks - i.e. your suggesting fork was unusual compared with other Road E+1s? No sign of a recall yet.



The dealer was trying to say other bikes in general not the e bike.
It was the steerer tube, my forks still haven’t arrived yet


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## kcflyer1957 (4 Nov 2017)

kellis said:


> just wondering what sort of tyre pressure every one is using in PSI please


I run about 80 in mine. I have Schwlabe Marathon 700x38


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## proton666 (7 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> my forks still haven’t arrived yet


Do you think you can get them to take a photo of this mystical fork before they install it?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (8 Nov 2017)

Well if it ever turns up, I will ask them tomorrow  .
Didn’t realise Taiwan was 5 weeks away..?


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## sight-pin (10 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Well if it ever turns up, I will ask them tomorrow  .
> Didn’t realise Taiwan was 5 weeks away..?



Blimey, it could of been delivered twice even if they chose the 'China-to-London freight train' lol


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## sight-pin (10 Nov 2017)

I've not used the bike since the 26th October and when i last charged the battery to full, I just connected the battery to the bike and it only shows 97%
charge. Should it loose 3% charge over that period of time even when it's not connected to the bike?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (10 Nov 2017)

I would imagine it would loose a bit of charge , a phone would.
My bespoke fork has arrived in the uk & should be at the shop on Monday .
They will take some pictures before the fit them & giant want my forks back to investigate the problem.


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## sight-pin (10 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> I would imagine it would loose a bit of charge , a phone would.
> My bespoke fork has arrived in the uk & should be at the shop on Monday .
> They will take some pictures before the fit them & giant want my forks back to investigate the problem.



Wonder if they can take a pic of the old and new side by side to see if their is any difference?

I've not been riding as my wife had a total hip replacement end of last week, she's also still getting over a major back surgery last year. She has enough titanium in her back and hip to make a half decent Ti bike frame lol.


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## Pale Rider (10 Nov 2017)

sight-pin said:


> I've not used the bike since the 26th October and when i last charged the battery to full, I just connected the battery to the bike and it only shows 97%
> charge. Should it loose 3% charge over that period of time even when it's not connected to the bike?



As said, the battery will drop a bit of charge over time.

No bad thing, fully charging the battery stresses the cells.

Best to leave the battery part charged if you know it won't be used for a while.

No need to be anal about it, anything between about 20 and 80 percent will do.

If the battery is to be left for months rather than weeks, it's worth giving it a charge for a half an hour or so occasionally.


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## sight-pin (10 Nov 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> As said, the battery will drop a bit of charge over time.
> 
> No bad thing, fully charging the battery stresses the cells.
> 
> ...



Thanks for that. Thought i may of got 1 or 2 rides in TBH. I may get one in on Sunday (weather permitting) with a bit of luck.


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## Pale Rider (10 Nov 2017)

sight-pin said:


> Thanks for that. Thought i may of got 1 or 2 rides in TBH. I may get one in on Sunday (weather permitting) with a bit of luck.



Hope so.

The other thing said about batteries is 'use it or lose it', so giving your bike a blast for however many miles you can manage will do it good.


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## sight-pin (10 Nov 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> Hope so.
> 
> The other thing said about batteries is 'use it or lose it', so giving your bike a blast for however many miles you can manage will do it good.



I like to try and get three or four 20 mile...ish rides in a week, I was itching for a ride today, the weather was nice and sunny out today.


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## proton666 (10 Nov 2017)

sight-pin said:


> I've not used the bike since the 26th October and when i last charged the battery to full, I just connected the battery to the bike and it only shows 97%
> charge. Should it loose 3% charge over that period of time even when it's not connected to the bike?


Sounds "normal". I just took mine out today after a long pause. I last changed to full on October 23. Was at 96% when I started out today.

30 miles of pouring rain (the weather report said cloudy but no rain... lol). Performed like a trooper.


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## sheltiedoulos (13 Nov 2017)

Greetings,

Newbie here.

I am also in California Bay Area and I was at Bike Connection yesterday to get some mud guard and brake pads put on my bike.
While waiting for the mud guards to be put on, I took their Road E+ for a ride - just local street.
It is pretty nice (compared to my old eneloop e-cruiser). But I have a question.
Do you think the charge can last for my intended weekend rides?
My intended rides: Page Mill - Alpine - Portola - OLH - West OLH - 84 - Pescadero - West Alpine - Page Mill (33 miles, ~4600 ft climb)
or Page Mill - Alpine - Portola - OLH - West OLH - 84 - Stage Rd - HWY1 - Tunitas Creek - King Mtn (46 miles, ~4900 ft climb)

Currently, I do these climbs on my Giant Escape Hybrid - it is quite a chore for a rather weak middle-age guy like me (granny gear all the way - averaging about 10 miles an hour - a rather pathetic showing)
I am looking for some electron-advantage.  But I am not certain whether a single charge on this bike can make the loop.
It would really suck big time if I have to pedal this 45 lbs bike up the last hill (West Alpine or Tunitas Creek).
(I have run out of juice on my eneloop e-cruiser, a 55 lbs bike, on the way home and it was painful to pedal that beast even on flat road - I could not imagine doing it on some 8-9% grade hill)

Does Giant also sell spare battery? And what kind of cost we are talking about?

Thanks!


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## proton666 (14 Nov 2017)

sheltiedoulos said:


> It would really suck big time if I have to pedal this 45 lbs bike up the last hill (West Alpine or Tunitas Creek).
> (I have run out of juice on my eneloop e-cruiser, a 55 lbs bike, on the way home and it was painful to pedal that beast even on flat road - I could not imagine doing it on some 8-9% grade hill)



I hear you. I have gone from Palo Alto to Woodside (via Sandhill etc.), up Kings Mt. (got to the top, Skyline Blvd., with 71% on the battery and it only took about 15 minutes from Woodside Store) over to the sea via Tunitas Creek, Lobitos Creek and then back via the same roads and had plenty left in the tank (about 42 miles and 4500 vertical). If you are reasonably strategic with the use of assist level and peddling cadence I feel either of the other rides you listed will work too.

When I have run out of battery I just shift my brain into touring mode and remember all the times I hauled 35+ pounds of food and camping equipment over similar roads (you know, the Zen thing).

I plan on doing Palo Alto, OLH, 84, Stage, Tunitas, Kings, Palo Alto option soon (OLH been closed a lot lately). Want to come along? If my battery dies you can laugh at me as I grovel up Tunitas... lol

I have been looking at adding a rack and an extra battery for even longer rides (Killer Loop anyone? (about 85 miles with about 9500 vertical)). I think the battery is like $1000. US (in advance)... ouch.


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## sheltiedoulos (14 Nov 2017)

Thanks, proton666. Sounds like this Road e+ may work for me.
I am thinking about staying on OFF mode on flat land and ECO mode on the ascend (but not sure that ECO mode will be enough on the hill climb given the weight of the bike).

I am certain the zen mode thingie will not work for me.  I am barely going up these hills around 4 mph with my 25 lbs hybrid.
With a 45 lbs bike, I will be pushing the bike on foot.

By the way, you can walk the bike around the cement road block on West OLH. The portion of road that is closed is actually clear and ridable (even the heavy machines are now gone).

I am still researching this e-bike thingie since it is a rather expensive investment.
Talked to my HR guy yesterday - he has a Reise & Muller (wish I am as rich as my colleague).
Talked to another colleague whose friend has an EVO e mountain bike. He claimed that his friend could do Henry Cole ridges on one charge (over 40 miles with ~7500 ft climb and with 35% charge left at the end of the ride).
Few months ago, talked to a nice couple at the Bike Shed (before the Tunitas Creek climb). They have the Felt e-bikes - the old lady (she is in the 60's) really likes hers because the e bike allows her to keep up with the group). She claims that her bike easily does 50 mile range (but I am not clear on her total climb).

I don't think I can afford the $1K spare battery.


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## sheltiedoulos (15 Nov 2017)

>>> I have gone from Palo Alto to Woodside (via Sandhill etc.), up Kings Mt. (got to the top, Skyline Blvd., with 71% on the battery

I assume you got up Kings Mt. on ECO mode?


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## proton666 (15 Nov 2017)

sheltiedoulos said:


> Thanks, proton666. Sounds like this Road e+ may work for me.
> I am thinking about staying on OFF mode on flat land and ECO mode on the ascend (but not sure that ECO mode will be enough on the hill climb given the weight of the bike).
> 
> By the way, you can walk the bike around the cement road block on West OLH. The portion of road that is closed is actually clear and ridable (even the heavy machines are now gone).



I have been keeping it in Eco on the flat and only switch it off on the decent. Climbs are on normal, by and large, but be prepared to giggle to yourself as you zoom past other rider at 15 mph and up on the steepest grades. You will want to put the same leg into it as you would without an assist because it's such a blast to go fast. But I find that I have to ride 40% further to get the same workout (another good excuse to get a second battery).

Thanks for the OLH west tip (I was actually talking about the eastern approach and I didn't even know the west had been blocked off).


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## proton666 (15 Nov 2017)

sheltiedoulos said:


> I assume you got up Kings Mt. on ECO mode?



Nope. Used normal all the way to the top.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (15 Nov 2017)

Picking up the bike tomorrow


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## proton666 (16 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Picking up the bike tomorrow



Good luck. Third times a charm....


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (16 Nov 2017)

Well got the bike this afternoon, bit surprised to see exactly the same fork in alloy as well.
Was this a keep me happy & pretend a bespoke fork was being made?.
The shop didn’t take any pictures because they were the same size & shape, they are going to try to get a spec sheet from giant on the changes?.
Took it for a quick 10 miles seemed ok.
The future of this fork hangs in the balance I suppose, if it goes again they can keep the bike but knowing my luck they will snap off & send me down the road.
Ridiculous waste of my time I feel.


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## sight-pin (16 Nov 2017)

Looks the same yeah, I suppose if they have made any changes it would be the steerer tube i would think?
Good to see you up and running again though


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## proton666 (16 Nov 2017)

Hmmmm. Well the fact the mechanic who installed it couldn’t see anything different about it says something anyway. He has certainly seen your fork enough times now to be able to detect any obvious modifications! Thanks for the photos anyway. Hope it hangs together for you.


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## sheltiedoulos (17 Nov 2017)

Perhaps the fact that the fork has crossed the Pacific on a slow boat, it got blessed by Poseidon (or Mazu). So it is all good. 

BTW, do you guys swap out factory tires/tubes with punctual resistant tire/tube like Gator skin?
Looks like a bear to patch the tube on this bike.


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## proton666 (17 Nov 2017)

sheltiedoulos said:


> BTW, do you guys swap out factory tires/tubes with punctual resistant tire/tube like Gator skin?
> Looks like a bear to patch the tube on this bike.



Not me. While I'm not looking forward to that first flat on this bike I would rather deal with an on road tube swap (something I have done hundreds of times) rather than a sealant / slime etc. (getting the disk rotor re-centered is the only real problem I can see and there is a simple trick for that). I rode Gators for a year once and they didn't do much for me. Having said that I know riders who love gator skin and others who only use sealants so I say go with what you are comfortable with.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Nov 2017)

I have just found this picture in my spam box, the mechanic took them for me, looks like they have lengthened the stem new for on the left


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## proton666 (18 Nov 2017)

Well hmmmmm again. May just be wishful thinking but I agree. Looks like the taper at the fork end is a little longer on the new one.


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## kcflyer1957 (18 Nov 2017)

proton666 said:


> Not me. While I'm not looking forward to that first flat on this bike I would rather deal with an on road tube swap (something I have done hundreds of times) rather than a sealant / slime etc. (getting the disk rotor re-centered is the only real problem I can see and there is a simple trick for that). I rode Gators for a year once and they didn't do much for me. Having said that I know riders who love gator skin and others who only use sealants so I say go with what you are comfortable with.


I have Schwalbe Marathons and run a wider tire because I really enjoy riding on gravel. Made it about 20 miles on gravel with the old tires before they lost it. That ride was at night in the middle of nowhere...it was a group ride called the "Lunar Kanza" and was part of the route used in the Dirty Kanza. I think the ride is excellent on asphalt as well.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Nov 2017)

Thought I better get some insurance & best I could find was assetsure at £142.
Most were coming in at £220.


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## sight-pin (22 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Thought I better get some insurance & best I could find was assetsure at £142.
> Most were coming in at £220.



That's quite good compared to mine, £172 i think it was in the end with no bells an whistles included (personal stuff)


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## squired (23 Nov 2017)

Very interesting thread guys. I'm a very experienced cyclist with a lot of miles in the legs, but my 13 mile daily commute into London really doesn't agree with my knees (more specifically the start/stopping from all the traffic lights) so I'm considering going down the ebike route.

For me riding at a decent speed (up to 40km/h) is fine, but what seems to kill my knees is the constant start/stopping. On a normal commute I can have as many as 30 red lights.

I've been looking at both the E+2 Pro 2018 and the Fast Road 2018. I am concerned about spending too much on an E bike and then in for or five years not being able to replace the battery, which is why the Fast Road appeals due to being slightly cheaper, but at the same time the lower battery capacity of the FastRoad is off putting. As someone without a car my bikes are my main mode of getting around. After riding too and from work my knees are normally pretty sore (they actually hurt 24/7), so the ebike would also potentially open up other possibilities for me in the evening and on weekends.

I have spoken to some local stores and the only bike available for a test ride is last year's E+2 in a medium (I would be buying a small), so not exactly ideal. Hence my looking for any input that might help.

For day-to-day commuting (not particularly hilly, but a lot of start/stopping) what sort of range would I expect and would an ebike help in terms of taking the strain off my knees as I pull away from lights?

Also, I have seen that the 2017 Fast Road E+2 is available for a discount (and available in small). I get the impression that spec-wise it is a step down from the 2018 versions (Tiagra gears, etc), but obviously that could be a good option, although some of the comments on my thread about fork issues are worrying. I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) that the 2018 bikes are likely to be improved on that front.


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## proton666 (23 Nov 2017)

First welcome. I have 45 years of competitive and recreational cycling in me and my poor legs are showing the strain too. Without the Road-E many of the rides I use to enjoy would be to painful to consider. With it, it feels like the good old days.

But to your points, the Road-e is mid drive, peddle assist so from a full stop a fair bit of leg is needed to engage to motor. But with the middle level of assist you will get a big boost simply by applying the weight of your body to the peddles. Keep in mind that the "Q factor" (the distance between the peddles also called stance width) is kinda nuts on mid drive e-bikes. My Road-e peddles are a good 3" further apart compared to my Cervelo R3. Some riders have no issues with Q factor but for me this is a big challenge because I switch between the two bikes a lot. My best advices is to find a dealer who has one in your size and take it out and do 10 or 20 stop and goes.

The Road-e is a lot of cash to lay out for a commuter (or for a good quality road bike for that matter) and the components on the bike are not at the level one would expect for the price. Having said that, I have found no issue with the components performance or durability (but to be fair it's early days). Personally I would worry less about components and more about fit and performance ( as in range, boost options, size and comfort in riding position). As a commuter I would find the drops a pain and having to shell out even more money for a rack and mud guards would make me think twice about the Road-e.

True the range of the Road-e is a strong point but your commute is short so unless you plan to use it in other ways it could be money better spent elsewhere. As you have probably read on this thread, range is a difficult thing to pin down. But I would expect to get at least four or five trips out of a charge assuming the middle level of assistance and that your commute is 13 miles round trip. But this could be either over or under optimistic depending on a lot of factors.

And have you tried to pick up the Road-e?? If you have to hop a curb or go up stairs or otherwise pick it up this bike is a beast! So give some thought to every aspect of how you will use it during a typical commute.

We are all biting our nails a bit about the fork thing but Giant has a good reputation about such things so I hope this will be resolved one way or another soon.

I have a friend who put a front wheel e-drive on his Brompton folder (a custom hack right now but I hear Brompton will be offering a very similar set-up soon). He says it gets about 35 to 45 miles to a charge, it weighs less than half of what the Road-e weighs, he can take it on the train and folds it up and takes it right into the office with him (no parking anxiety). And since this is a wheel drive, very little to no effort is needed to engage the drive.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Nov 2017)

Squired.
The 2017 road E+2 at £1499 has the 400 wh battery which I’m not sure how long it would last compared to a 500wh on our E+1, I have managed over 100miles on a charge using mainly eco mode on mostly flat road, but average a good 70-80 miles on mixture of elevations.
The fork issue I have had has been painful but hopefully now has been resolved the 2018 model has carbon forks & the frame looks a little different.
Regarding replacing batteries pail rider would be best to answer this. 
I’ve not seen a 2017 fast road E avalible only a 2018? 
Here are spec’s for all 2018 models
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/bikes-road-eplus-pro-2018 

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/bikes-fastroad-eplus-2018
Regards riding, pulling away from lights is great especially if in power mode & all round riding is fun I look forward to hills knowing they won’t kill me & I still get a good work out.
The hardest part I think is the 15mph limit, it takes a bit of getting use to when you can ride faster on the flat but when approaching the hill your sort of waiting for the bike to slow down before the assist cuts in.
Hard to explain but you get use to it, try to get a test ride first.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Nov 2017)




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## proton666 (24 Nov 2017)

Pro hasn't dropped in the USA yet. Glad to see they have gone all Ultegra. Got real excited when I heard "composite" but just the fork *sigh*. And they filled the silly little gap between the top tube and the down tube. It bugs me so much I'm trying to fill it in. Going to a buddies house next weekend to use his 3D printer to run out a couple of prototypes. If that works I will run it on a CNC mill for the final. Also liked that they removed all the blue and yellow decals.


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## sight-pin (24 Nov 2017)

Welcome to the forum @squired.
It also depends on the style of bike you require as i do believe the 'Fast Road-E plus' is a flat bar version where as the pro and the 2017 Road E+2 have dropped handlebar.


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## sight-pin (24 Nov 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> View attachment 384411



That does look nice.


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## squired (24 Nov 2017)

Thanks for your comments guys. Generally speaking I am a drop bar cyclist. I do have a hardtail mountain bike (Rocky Mountain) that I love, but my road bikes (Look, Specialized Roubaix and Trek) get most action. Having said that, drops or flat doesn't really bother me. One day a week I commute on my mountain bike and really enjoy it - a good bike is a good bike whatever shape the bars and however wide the tyres.

Obviously I've had no luck so far in terms of finding a dealer with my size, which is frustrating. I'm very concerned about getting the correct fit. The deals available on the E+2 2017 do look interesting, but I am worried about the forks issues and also it is a smaller battery (plus the colour scheme isn't great in my opinion).

Primarily I would use the bike as part of my commuting arsenal. I would still ride normal bikes some days, but it would give my knees a rest on others. If I ride for two hours on or off road with no stopping they are completely fine, but the battering from a commute really hurts them. I would also use the bike for other trips, so it would get plenty of use. Mudguards would be needed for year-round riding and it is possible I would go with a rack for carrying some of my heavy camera equipment.

Has anyone ridden a 2017 and a 2018 and if so have they noticed any specific differences? Obviously the ability to pick up a 2017 E+2 for less than £1,600 versus a 2018 E+2 Pro for £3,200 is compelling.


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## Pale Rider (25 Nov 2017)

squired said:


> Has anyone ridden a 2017 and a 2018 and if so have they noticed any specific differences? Obviously the ability to pick up a 2017 E+2 for less than £1,600 versus a 2018 E+2 Pro for £3,200 is compelling.



I've not ridden either, but the difference in the ride will be marginal - they are both good quality, Yamaha crank assist ebikes.

Range is heavily dependent on rider weight/fitness/hills/assist level used and so on, so is hard to advise on.

A couple of the regulars on here can get 100 miles from 500wh, that's a good effort - literally - on their part.

Someone relatively unfit, such as me, gets half that range - you may be somewhere in between. 

You probably grasp the 500wh battery will take you about 25 per cent further than the 400wh one.

Moving on to service life of the battery pack, replacements are famously expensive at about £700.

However, the Yamaha - and Bosch - crank drive motor is relatively weedy (legal) which means it doesn't thrash the battery by drawing lots of current.

I have a Bosch battery from 2012 which is still holding as much charge as it ever did.

At some point it will start to decline, it must, but five years and counting isn't too bad .

There's every reason to think Yamaha batteries will perform just as well.

Battery technology is improving, but very, very, slowly.

However, in five/six years it may be available recharge cycles will have been pushed from the hundreds into the thousands.


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## sheltiedoulos (25 Nov 2017)

Took the Road e+1 for an extended ride last weekend which included some small local hills. It was a blast. After reading you guys' posts, it looks like I should wait for the pro version to be available in US. Apparently, road e+1 pro is available in Canada and for some reason the price is much better than US (can $4499).


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## kcflyer1957 (26 Nov 2017)

I was thankful I had a Road E today. I set out on a 40 mile pleasure ride...speed wasn't the issue, just getting out. I live in the US and our speed restrictions are higher (28 mph). I was on a bike trail and two pit bulls came running for me - no owner in sight. Thankfully the trail was flat and straight. I put my legs in "panic mode" and was peddling pretty fiercely but the dogs were nipping at my heels. Then I flipped it up to "power" mode. And at my panicked pace, went straight up to 28 mph - leaving the dogs behind.


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## sight-pin (26 Nov 2017)

kcflyer1957 said:


> I was thankful I had a Road E today. I set out on a 40 mile pleasure ride...speed wasn't the issue, just getting out. I live in the US and our speed restrictions are higher (28 mph). I was on a bike trail and two pit bulls came running for me - no owner in sight. Thankfully the trail was flat and straight. I put my legs in "panic mode" and was peddling pretty fiercely but the dogs were nipping at my heels. Then I flipped it up to "power" mode. And at my panicked pace, went straight up to 28 mph - leaving the dogs behind.



Nice one. With the speed restrictions we have in the UK, I'd of been a tasty morsel for them in that scenario.


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## Foghat (2 Dec 2017)

Tyre update - hopefully a timely one for other owners preparing for a tough winter.....

Unhappy with the fact that Continental's '37mm' Top Contact Winter Premium tyres actually measure a ridiculously undersized 32mm, I recently made enquiries on other forums about the real-world size of the '42mm' version. With no data coming back in response, I took a risk and bought a pair of '42mm' tyres on the assumption that, since Continental can't be trusted to state correct tyre widths, there was a fighting chance they would also come in undersize (as I would prefer for my Road E+1 due to clearance limitations).

It turns out that Continental as ever remains inconsistent with its inconsistency, and in this instance the '42mm' is much closer to its nominal width, and actually measures 40.5mm on an 18mm internal width rim.

So they do fit the bike. There is plenty of room at the front. The rear, though, has about 5mm clearance to the mudguard edges at the closest points, and the rubber fronds that protrude from the tread brush the mudguard over a lot of its length. The fronds rubbing doesn't concern me - they will eventually wear away anyway and the resistance is negligible; however, a broken spoke could cause some difficulties if the wheel goes much out of true.

I'm using 45mm SKS Longboards - they are wide enough to cover the main tyre ok, but about 1-2mm of the fronds extends outside the mudguard coverage, which doesn't bother me. Comfort on appallingly surfaced/maintained (ungritted) roads, and winter grip (frost, ice, snow), for my 200-mile-per-week-year-round commuting workload are the overriding concerns with this bike. If 55mm Longboards existed, I would buy them for the Road E+1, though.

See photos below for the clearances I'm working with. The 40.5mm certainly make for a noticeable improvement in comfort over the stock 32mm Duranos that Giant fits to these bikes, although note I only use these tyres for ice, frost and light snow conditions - when the roads are slippery due to mud/leaves etc, I choose the regular '37mm' Top Contacts (almost true-sized at an actual 36mm), and for severe ice or deeper snow, out come the Schwalbe Marathon Winter studded tyres.

These are such good winter tyres that Continental really ought to sell them in 42mm, 37mm and 32mm real widths, not just 40.5mm and 32mm. A nice 28mm version wouldn't go amiss either.


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## Pale Rider (2 Dec 2017)

.

Looks like an acceptable amount of clearance on the front, and those frond-things look extra long to me so them rubbing isn't worth worrying about.

Ebikes are heavy beasts, and I've always thought dead metal weight counts for a bit more than rider weight, which at least shifts around a bit and is suspended by the rider's legs.

Which is my long-winded way of saying I think you are wise to go for plenty of rubber on the ebike.

My experience also accords with yours on marked tyre widths, seems to me actual widths often vary.

While I'm on, is your bike always cleaner than when it left the shop, or is it just for when you want to take photos of it?


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## Foghat (2 Dec 2017)

Pale Rider said:


> While I'm on, is your bike always cleaner than when it left the shop, or is it just for when you want to take photos of it?



Despite the evidence of the photos, my commuting bikes spend most of their life covered in mud, as I don't have time during the week to do any cleaning. I do a full bike clean once the chain gets to the point it needs degreasing - i.e. about every two to three weeks in rainy periods (so that's most of the year, then!). I have a well-honed cleaning regime, but even so it still takes a fair bit of time to do the job properly.

But most of my commute is on filthy lanes, so whenever the bikes do get cleaned, their gleamingness is invariably ruined by getting caked in mud again the very next ride. Brasses me off, but what can a cyclist do in cold-wet-and-grey-all-year-round Britain?!


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## Pale Rider (3 Dec 2017)

I wash, or at least wipe down, my bike after every ride.

But that's easy, because i'm only out once or twice a week.

I know if I commuted the bike would get filthy, I'd lose cleaning motivation, and the bike would stay dirty for weeks on end.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (3 Dec 2017)

Foghat said:


> I've been meaning to post photos of the rack (Tubus Logo Classic 26/28) and mudguards (SKS Longboard 45mm) that I've fitted to my Road E+1, so here are a few. Hopefully they may be of use to others considering doing the same. Load carrying is now a breeze!
> 
> The lower rack fitment holes are not particularly well designed. They necessitate using multiple washers (6 x M6) inside the seatstay cavity plus the wide spacer between the frame and rack leg, meaning a loaded rack will be exerting a hefty levering force across a sizable proportion of the bolt's 30mm length. For this reason, it is essential to use M6 rather than M5 bolts. Clearance between the nuts/bolts for the rack/mudguards and the rotor is a few mm, as the photos show.
> 
> ...


Hi foghat,
For the mudguard fitment, what length m4 bolts did you have to use front & back.?


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## Foghat (3 Dec 2017)

I've only used M5 bolts for the mudguards, lengths as follows:

Front

Left dropout 35mm (with 4 x SKS spacers)
Right dropout 12mm
Fork crown 70mm
Rear

Left and right dropouts 8mm or 10mm (can't remember which - probably 8mm as there is not much room in the frame)
Seatstay bridge 8mm (shallower pan-head for greater tyre clearance)
Seat tube 10mm (shallower pan-head for greater tyre clearance)
NB. I used a mixture of Form C (larger) and Form A (regular) M5 washers, depending on where each bolt is.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (4 Dec 2017)

Foghat said:


> I've only used M5 bolts for the mudguards, lengths as follows:
> 
> Front
> 
> ...



Thanks for that I thought they were m4


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (9 Dec 2017)

Fitted my skis bluemells reflective mudguards this morning, quite pleased with them.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (9 Dec 2017)

Just seen this on giant website under technologies about there the first manufacturer to bring a tapered head tube to the market.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/gb/road-eplus-1
Perhaps they should of tested it for a bit longer.


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## proton666 (11 Dec 2017)

Giantbadge said:


> Perhaps they should of tested it for a bit longer.



LOL. Isn't that you? Where I live that is called being an unpaid beta tester  But in silicon valley a crash means something completely different.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (30 Dec 2017)

Just brought a abus d lock, but I’m struggling to find a suitable position for it?.
As most of frame has no round tubes the fixing kit isnt much good, I was thinking of putting it on seat post but as it’s carbon would this weaken it.
Anyone else here has one fitted ?


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## sight-pin (30 Dec 2017)

I noticed the same problem, had to buy a gold rated lock to comply with the insurance. The only way i think of mounting it is ignore the supplied plastic thing and strap it under the top bar using velcro straps or something, however I've not needed to use it yet so have not gotten around to trying it.
As for mounting on the seat post, not sure that's a good idea tbh.

Edit: Or in a backpack if you use one may be a better alternative.


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## Woolyhatcheck (21 Jan 2018)

Hi
I'm new to forum(but not cycling)and about to purchase road e+ 2. Its for my commute which is 16miles each way minimum and 2000ft ascent on way at 20% or 1 in 5 for a good proportion and 1000ft + on return but less steep. I live in the UK - in the Peak District. I reckon I weigh around 85kg.
I've read through the posts here and everything I can find on internet and it seems to be capable of there and back but I'm not 100% sure. Obviously the battery performance may be affected by winter temps.
Would anyone offer an opinion on this?
Cheers


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## sight-pin (21 Jan 2018)

Woolyhatcheck said:


> Hi
> I'm new to forum(but not cycling)and about to purchase road e+ 2. Its for my commute which is 16miles each way minimum and 2000ft ascent on way at 20% or 1 in 5 for a good proportion and 1000ft + on return but less steep. I live in the UK - in the Peak District. I reckon I weigh around 85kg.
> I've read through the posts here and everything I can find on internet and it seems to be capable of there and back but I'm not 100% sure. Obviously the battery performance may be affected by winter temps.
> Would anyone offer an opinion on this?
> Cheers



Hi, Welcome to the forum.
I would think you could at least do two days commute with one charge but it depends on how you use the power settings, Eco, Normal or sport. I think the later versions have 4 power settings or more?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (21 Jan 2018)

The road e+2 has a 400wh battery so I can’t comment on this really but I did a ride last sat which included a good climb :
Draycott 
Length: 1.2 miles
Elevation gain: 725 ft
Climb begins in Draycott Village. Take the left turn off the Draycott Road (A371) and onto New Road. The climb finishes when the road levels out. Beware this climb has sustained sections of 15-20%..
My ride totaled 30 miles including a nice ride down through cheddar gorge.
When I got home I had 52% battery left with my 500wh.
See if this works 
https://www.runtastic.com/en/users/...979927?sharing_token=5a59eb2305efd20540cd8f3e


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## sight-pin (21 Jan 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> The road e+2 has a 400wh battery so I can’t comment on this really but I did a ride last sat which included a good climb :
> Draycott
> Length: 1.2 miles
> Elevation gain: 725 ft
> ...



I think the latest e+2 now have the 500 battery, same as e+1. i could be wrong though?


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## Pale Rider (21 Jan 2018)

Woolyhatcheck said:


> Hi
> I'm new to forum(but not cycling)and about to purchase road e+ 2. Its for my commute which is 16miles each way minimum and 2000ft ascent on way at 20% or 1 in 5 for a good proportion and 1000ft + on return but less steep. I live in the UK - in the Peak District. I reckon I weigh around 85kg.
> I've read through the posts here and everything I can find on internet and it seems to be capable of there and back but I'm not 100% sure. Obviously the battery performance may be affected by winter temps.
> Would anyone offer an opinion on this?
> Cheers



You have correctly identified hills as the thing that slurps the battery more than any other.

You are also right to be unsure if a 400wh or even a 500wh battery will do the round trip.

I reckon it will be tight, but i weigh a fair bit more than you which makes my riding power hungry, particularly on climbs where the extra weight is felt the most.

If you can manage the ride on level one assist, you really ought to be OK.

But resorting to higher levels to get up those banks could put you into range anxiety.

Have a play with this ebike range calculating utility.

It's for Bosch bikes, but as you probaby know the Yamaha motor on the Giant is a similar design, so you can expect comparable range.

https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/service/range-assistant/


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## proton666 (22 Jan 2018)

Woolyhatcheck said:


> Would anyone offer an opinion on this?
> Cheers



I think one round trip should not be a problem. Two round trips may not be in the cards. Having said that, ECO the hills and I would say you just may get two round trips. Also, a smooth and coincident cadence around 87 RPM did wonders for my battery life (evens out motor yo-yo that saps the battery). I can now get about 35 to 39 miles in and only use about 50% of the battery (adjusting for the 3% cutout). Typical ride has about 3300 to 3700 vertical feet, some 18%, but this is open road riding however so not a lot of stops and goes like a commute. I typically climb on NORMAL, roll on ECO and decent on OFF. I have an advantage on the hills however as I only weigh 59 Kg. I say go for it. You will most likely find a way to do what you want after some experimentation. Good luck.

BTW, I have the 500 Wh battery.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (26 Jan 2018)

Screen has gone again.


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## sight-pin (26 Jan 2018)

Again, Has it just stopped working, screen fading?
Edit: Oh i see, you can't switch it off again.


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## proton666 (26 Jan 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> Screen has gone again.


Bummer. Do you store the bike in an unheated outdoor shed? Just wondering if the cold is getting to it...

Oh, and speaking of the screen. I was wondering about the "Service" icon (you know the one that looks like a wrench / spanner). Is this something that just pops up every xyz miles to remind you to do regular maintenance or will it appear only when there is a more acute problem (dealer no help)? Anyone seen it pop up on their screen yet?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Jan 2018)

sight-pin said:


> Again, Has it just stopped working, screen fading?
> Edit: Oh i see, you can't switch it off again.


This came on yesterday after 6 miles, think it must of been the sunshine .
I can turn it off & the screen went back to normal then.
Shop said it looks like dead pixels & will put a claim in.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Jan 2018)

proton666 said:


> Bummer. Do you store the bike in an unheated outdoor shed? Just wondering if the cold is getting to it...
> 
> Oh, and speaking of the screen. I was wondering about the "Service" icon (you know the one that looks like a wrench / spanner). Is this something that just pops up every xyz miles to remind you to do regular maintenance or will it appear only when there is a more acute problem (dealer no help)? Anyone seen it pop up on their screen yet?


The bike is stored in my garage unheated, Giant had a batch of controllers that Were tested & found where cables went in water was creeping in.
It’s not been out in the wet though?.
The spanner light will come on when a service is needed, bit like a car.

,


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## Woolyhatcheck (27 Jan 2018)

So I erred on the side of caution ensuring I could charge battery before return. I drove in Wed morn cycled home in eve. 19.2 m around 1000ft climbing and stonv tailwind used 23% battery. Recharged at home then rode in Thursday 19.8m 2000+ft ascent some v steep with strong head wind used 58%.
Both rides using variety of modes but power up steepest hills.
So it should certainly be possible - there is a shorter route but more traffic.(Up winnats pass) So will try that next.

Anyone worked out if its possible to change settings on controller to account for different tyre size??
I think I can get my 29 x 2.2 ardent in fork and something only slightly smaller at back - there is a gravel track option on my commute too!


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## Pale Rider (28 Jan 2018)

Woolyhatcheck said:


> So I erred on the side of caution ensuring I could charge battery before return. I drove in Wed morn cycled home in eve. 19.2 m around 1000ft climbing and stonv tailwind used 23% battery. Recharged at home then rode in Thursday 19.8m 2000+ft ascent some v steep with strong head wind used 58%.
> Both rides using variety of modes but power up steepest hills.
> So it should certainly be possible - there is a shorter route but more traffic.(Up winnats pass) So will try that next.
> 
> ...



Sounds doable, which is good.

Ebike batteries tend to give pretty much full range straight away, but you might get a bit more out of it after it has been through a handful of charge/recharge cycles.

Does the bike have a 400wh or 500wh battery?

Worth having a think about tyres, the easier they roll the more range you will get.


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## kcflyer1957 (28 Jan 2018)

proton666 said:


> Bummer. Do you store the bike in an unheated outdoor shed? Just wondering if the cold is getting to it...
> 
> Oh, and speaking of the screen. I was wondering about the "Service" icon (you know the one that looks like a wrench / spanner). Is this something that just pops up every xyz miles to remind you to do regular maintenance or will it appear only when there is a more acute problem (dealer no help)? Anyone seen it pop up on their screen yet?


I had the service icon come on once. In my case, the spoke with the magnet sensor on it broke. When the bike shop repaired it, they failed to put the magnet back on. It senses it very quickly and turns the icon on. I've got 1,000 miles on mine and that's the only time I've had the wrench icon turn on. Bike also behaves very erratically when that little magnet is missing.


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## proton666 (28 Jan 2018)

kcflyer1957 said:


> It senses it very quickly and turns the icon on. I've got 1,000 miles on mine and that's the only time I've had the wrench icon turn on. Bike also behaves very erratically when that little magnet is missing.



Kinda thought this was the case as I too have nearly 1000 miles and have never seen it come on. Every 350 to 500 is when I do things like rotate the tires, check spoke tension, crank bolt, break wear, inspect chain, etc. on my non-ebikes. Maybe these new fangled bikes don't need that as often.

Yeah... I got so paranoid about tossing a magnet that I carry an extra one in my saddle bag just in case (along with one of everything else... lol).


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## Country Bumpkin (6 Feb 2018)

Hello another newbie here. I bought a Road E+1 last year and have been enjoying reading your posts, so thought I would join and share some of my experiences.

I have a 30 mile commute (60 mile round trip) that I like to do on my bike at least once a week. I used to do it on my normal road bike (Giant Defy 3) but I found the return trip too much after a full day’s work. Mainly because I’d been on my feet all day but also because the trip in too work (heading east) starts with a whole bunch of big climbs followed by flats with some long but very minor declines. This means on the way home (west)I’m hit with relentless slight inclines with very little chance to build up any pace (this is also made worse by the fact I always seem to hit headwinds in this direction), so I don’t cycle as much as I should.

Then, one day a friend of mine called around with his new electric bike! “Wow” I thought, “what sort of range can you get?” about 60 miles (he claimed) which got me thinking.

So I started to look at what bikes were available on the market and came across the Giant Road E+1, it looked amazing…. then I saw the price!

I thought to myself and can’t see the wife being happy with me spending that amount on a bike.

Well, one afternoon my wife walked in on me looking at videos on YouTube, “videos of the Giant Road E Bike!!!!” and I explained to her what it was and that they were quite expensive. To my amazement she turned round and said “well it would make the difference between you cycling and not cycling to work”. That sounds like a green light to me! (I thought), I’d better get the balls rolling before she changes her mind.

There are no Giant dealers anywhere near me so I was not able to trial one, so I looked on line, found a really good deal and made the purchase.

And here’s what I thought:

The bike looks amazing compared to other electric/hybrid bikes, it’s about 10kg lighter than my mate’s electric bike. The weight distribution (compared the E bikes with hub motors and rear rack mounted batteries) is good in my opinion. I think the bike handles very well when whizzing downhill (probably because of the low down weight). It has a comfortable ride position, well once I replaced the saddle that looked like some stealth fighter printed in plastic on a 3D printer (it was a hard ride!). I even managed 52 miles on my first outing (I headed out on eco then returned on normal). The only negative was the stupid 15.5mph limit, which in my opinion made the bike kind of pointless. I could easily exceed those speeds on my road bike. On my Defy 3 I would take around 1h 40 mins on my 30 mile commute, averaging around 18mph. my record was 1h 28mins (approx. 20.5mph). Given the fact that the road E is around 12-14kg heavier than my Defy 3, I reckoned that the commute was going to be no quicker.

I’d heard of the derestriction packages that were on the market but I’d been a little reluctant at first due to possible warranty issues, but after reading lots of reviews etc. I decided to take the plunge (after all the bike was just going to end up being sold or sat in the garage).

I opted for the Speed Box 2 which sits nicely inside the motor casing out of site and can be switched on or off from the control buttons and the handle bar.

This means if Mr Plod ever decides to show an interest there are no visible modifications (like the Badass tuning box that sits on the rear arm) and it can be switched back to standard with the press of a button.

My verdict?

Now the bike has come into its own.

Let’s be honest Yamaha didn’t designed this motor for one market (UK 15.5mph), they designed it to work through its whole range and assist with up to 80nm of torque. And there must be software to govern and protect the motor when under load. I read report of a guy who’s done over 1000miles in the Alps on his derestricted Road E.

Any way back my commute, it now takes me a very repeatable 1h 15mins each way and I have now made the commute for four working days in a row. Some people think I’m cheating by riding an E bike but I explain to them that I still put in the same effort as I would on my road bike, I just go a little quicker and take a little less time.

There are certain flats on the way to work where I would be doing 22mph I’m now doing 27-32mph and I’ve worked it out that I’m now averaging around 24mph.

The only drawback now is that I’m constantly running in the top two gears (11 and the one below 12?) Now I’m pretty sure 11 is as small as you can go on the rear cassette so I’m wondering if I can increase the size of the front chain ring.


So here’s my question:

Is it possible to get a 54t chain ring for the FSA custom chain set? The current ring looks to be more heavy duty than my current road bike (this might be due to the increased loads) any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated


Thanks for taking the time to read my story and I’m looking forward to further conversations.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (6 Feb 2018)

Glad your enjoying the road e, not sure on the chainring, as to the speed box what battery life are you getting as when I reversed the speed sensor I did a 37 mile run averaging 20mph & When I got home I only had 10% left.


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## Foghat (7 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> Is it possible to get a 54t chain ring for the FSA custom chain set? The current ring looks to be more heavy duty than my current road bike (this might be due to the increased loads) any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated



You may find the following of some use, which relates to the 2016 Road E+1. The frame on the 2017 version was I think virtually identical, but the new 2018 Road E+1 Pro has a re-designed frame, so may have a different chainstay design.

I too find the 50t chainring too small, particularly during non-winter months when I ride quite a bit faster on both e-bikes and non-e-bikes. I therefore decided to investigate the options for fitting a larger chainring.

On close examination of the space available between the 50t ring and the chainstay, I could see it was going to be touch and go whether a larger ring would even fit, due to the way the chainstay flares outwards immediately past the outer ring's teeth. I nevertheless thought there was a fighting chance a 52t ring would fit IF I also fitted some chainring spacers to offset the 52t ring outwards to help ensure that the teeth cleared the flaring chainstay.

It was a very close-run thing, but when I did the first phase of my proof-of-concept testing, I found the 52t ring JUST cleared the chainstay when 1.2mm chainring spacers are used. I severely doubt whether a 54t ring will fit on the 2016/2017 frames, unless VERY thick chainring spacers and possibly longer chainring bolts are used, but have no idea for the 2018 frame which I suppose may have better teeth-chainstay clearance.

Watch out for FSA chainring designs and availability. I could not find any outer chainrings on the internet that visually matched the ring fitted as standard to the Road E+1. Giant shops can source matching 50t/34t sets though, but they ain't cheap. So I went for the FSA Unisex Pro Road N10/11 110BCD Chainring ('Unisex' - how ridiculous!). However, this has a different (thinner) bolthole thickness and teeth-offset (i.e. dishing) compared with the fitted 50t ring, meaning the use of chainring spacers of some kind becomes essential anyway.

For this experiment, I established that 1.2mm was the minimum spacer thickness needed to clear the chainstay. I haven't actually ridden the 52t ring yet, as I only tested clearance in the workstand before removing the 52t again for the winter, so don't know how shifting between rings may be affected by changing the ring separation. I'm not too bothered if shifting is compromised, as I only use the 34t ring for 10 metres at the start and 10 metres at the finish of my commute, spending the whole of the ride in the big ring, even the steep hills.

I may of course find, when I eventually test-ride the 52t set-up, that whilst the teeth cleared the chainstay during static testing in the workstand the forces going through the chainset during riding may flex it enough to mean the teeth do make contact with the chainstay, in which case switching to thicker (e.g. 2.0mm) chainring spacers may provide enough clearance. I've got various sets of spacers from SJS Cycles to play with: chainring spacers

If you do experiment, please report back on the results!


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## proton666 (7 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> Well, one afternoon my wife walked in on me looking at videos on YouTube, “videos of the Giant Road E Bike



lol... got busted watching cycle porn eh? Well welcome. We all do it. I'm in the US so I get assisted up to 27MPH. They must do something to regulate the battery draw better than the speed box because I get very good battery life. Just today I did 33 miles with 3700 feet of climbing, averaged 17.8 MPH and got home with 41% left. Normaled all hills.

Can't answer the chainring question but would also like to know this too.


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## Country Bumpkin (7 Feb 2018)

I think you guys in the US are running at 500 watts of drive, we in Europe are only running 250 watts of drive so theoretically we should have twice the range.

Regarding the motors, I think I read that Giant say the US motor is 500 Watts and the European version is 250W, now I'm no expert but I've been and electro-mechanical engineer now for 28 years and it would surprise me if Yamaha were to make two versions of the drive system (mechanically). It would make more sense to produce one model and control its performance with software.

According to the speed box dongle specifications my drive system will in theory assist to 61 mph but it will never achieve this for several reasons (In my opinion!).

Once you exceed a certain cadence (or caydence for you US readers) the power drops off. And because of the gear ratio 50 to 11 (top gear) this is achieved at around 35 mph (downhill).

Plus 250 watts isn’t a great deal of added oomff at that ratio.

I find myself topping out on the flats at around 32 mph and that’s with 100% leg effort!

I’m running on the 11t at the rear and to be honest I probably couldn’t push a much higher gear on the flats it’s on the down hills I could do with more.

So that’s one reason why I wish to alter the gear ratio. I can hit 45 – 50mph on my road bike (defy 3) going down the same hills.

Another reason I which to change the front ring is to reduce the strain on the chain and rear cassette. My thinking is that all that force from my legs and motor is being transferred into 11 teeth on the rear cassette. If I change to a 54t chainring I could run the same ratio with the chain positioned around the middle of the cassette and only going on to the 11t on down hills where the applied forces are greatly reduced.

Moving on.., I racked up nearly 300 miles last week and the bike, motor and my legs are all doing fine….. It’s my backside (or “BUTT!” for you American readers) that’s paying the price. I normally where a pair of cycling shorts with a built in gel pad, but given the resent British weather, -2°C this morning (28.4°F) I’ve taken to wearing my cycling bib tights/trousers (“Pants!”) with my short over the top. The problem is my shorts keep slipping forward or backwards and I can’t be arsed (pardon the pun) to keep stopping to fix the issue. I’ve read that some cyclist don’t even wear underwear under there padded cycling shorts/trousers because of the issue of slippage, but that would mean investing in enough outfits to cover every day of my commute (too much money).

So I’ve found a site making padded boxer shorts (underwear) the pads are on the outside of the shorts which in all intent and purposes looks like a baboon’s arse! but hey who's going to see them. They weren’t a great deal of money so I thought I’d give them a go, the idea being that if they work I could afford a pair for every day of my commute. Has anyone tried these before or have any other tips on how I could reduce my suffering?!


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## sight-pin (7 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> I think I read that Giant say the US motor is 500 Watts and the European version is 250W



Your correct by the looks of this https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/road-eplus-1, never noticed the difference before.

I don't wear underpants under cycling shorts as they tend to ride up and cut into my privates. I do wear a pair of cargo shorts over the cycling shorts though mainly for the pockets they're handy for my phone etc: But i only ride for fun.


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## sight-pin (7 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> I can hit 45 – 50mph on my road bike (defy 3) going down the same hills.



I would of thought your'd be slightly faster on the e-bike down hill being as a much heavier bike. Silly question i know but are the wheels binding in any way, tyre pressure etc. I assume a similar wind direction upon the comparison? Free wheeling down hill i'm faster on the e-bike.


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## Country Bumpkin (7 Feb 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> Glad your enjoying the road e, not sure on the chainring, as to the speed box what battery life are you getting as when I reversed the speed sensor I did a 37 mile run averaging 20mph & When I got home I only had 10% left.



Sounds about right, I have a 30 mile commute and I run the bike on "normal" and depending on the temperature (because this can affect the battery) and how much effort I’m putting in myself, and wind conditions etc. etc. etc. I get to work with around 20% remaining although the other day when I road in at -2°C I was down to 5% a mile from work so had to drop to “Eco”.

I just take my charger with me to work and charge it under my desk (normally takes around 4-5 hours)


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## Country Bumpkin (7 Feb 2018)

sight-pin said:


> I would of thought your'd be slightly faster on the e-bike down hill being as a much heavier bike. Silly question i know but are the wheels binding in any way, tyre pressure etc. I assume a similar wind direction upon the comparison? Free wheeling down hill i'm faster on the e-bike.



I hear what you’re saying. I'd expect the heavier bike to go quicker as well, but I guess it’s because in both instances I’m not just freewheeling I’m peddling and I believe the E bikes gear ratio is lower than Defy 3


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## sight-pin (7 Feb 2018)

The extra 2 or 4 teeth don't seem to make much difference. At 110 cadence at 50/11 will give you 40.21 mph. With 52/11 your speed will be 41.81 mph, With a 54/11 will be 43.40 mph. http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence Ignore the other cogs ratio's as i only set (11)


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## Country Bumpkin (7 Feb 2018)

sight-pin said:


> The extra 2 or 4 teeth don't seem to make much difference. At 110 cadence at 50/11 will give you 40.21 mph. With 52/11 your speed will be 41.81 mph, With a 54/11 will be 43.40 mph. http://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence Ignore the other cogs ratio's as i only set (11)


Well I’ve estimated my cadence to be somewhere between 90 and 100 at the top end which looking at the calculator you put the link for (thank you by the way, useful little tool) would seem about right. So I’m going to be looking at a 3-4 mph increase. Not much and by the looks of the tables results I will only be running 1 cog lower on the rear cassette. Not what I was hoping for.


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## proton666 (7 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> I think you guys in the US are running at 500 watts of drive, we in Europe are only running 250 watts of drive


Oh, that explains a lot! I was a bit mystified how we were getting such opposite results despite the greater boost range that we get in the US. Thanks...


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (7 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> I hear what you’re saying. I'd expect the heavier bike to go quicker as well, but I guess it’s because in both instances I’m not just freewheeling I’m peddling and I believe the E bikes gear ratio is lower than Defy 3


I think my defy 4 is also quicker down hill


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## Country Bumpkin (8 Feb 2018)

So, I have an update on the padded underwear shorts I purchased from Amazon “Gel shorts, breathable underwear” was the description.

Complete lies! They were foam and very soft foam at that. I’d get more padding from taping a couple of ladies pads to the inside of my underwear! Needless to say they will be going back.


Can anyone recommend a good GEL padded underwear short?


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## sight-pin (8 Feb 2018)

I just use the Decathlon padded shorts, They're not gel though but quite comfortable: They sell 3 types IIRC. The seat that comes fitted to the E+1 is fine for me with 20 mile rides, probably because the seat on my Mekk Poggio is as stiff as a board.

Edit: They do have GEL type. https://www.decathlon.co.uk/900-gel-padded-cycling-shorts-black-id_8381832.html


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## sight-pin (10 Feb 2018)

Decided to add a kickstand in the end. Daughter asked what i wanted for my birthday


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (12 Feb 2018)

sight-pin said:


> I just use the Decathlon padded shorts, They're not gel though but quite comfortable: They sell 3 types IIRC. The seat that comes fitted to the E+1 is fine for me with 20 mile rides, probably because the seat on my Mekk Poggio is as stiff as a board.
> 
> Edit: They do have GEL type. https://www.decathlon.co.uk/900-gel-padded-cycling-shorts-black-id_8381832.html



I didn’t plan on the Lycra look but after buying cheap shorts with poor padding I was at my dealers & with buying my bikes & accessories etc I have earned £100 in there points loyalty scheme.
So I choose these https://bicyclechain.co.uk/product/40633/endura-fs260-pro-bibshort-black-wht/
They are really comfy.


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## Country Bumpkin (13 Feb 2018)

OK, so I solved the padded short slippage dilemma, I’ve taken to wearing them under my cycling trousers/tights and not on top. Oh and “Site Pin” I took a leaf from your book and went without underwear….”No more chafing!!” Yeah

Moving on to a different topic, I put in 240 miles last week commuting to work for four days in a row. On the last day my bike developed a clicking noise coming from what seemed to be the crank or motor area (like an aluminium frame clicking on steel bolts). I stopped several times to tighten what I could around the motor and frame but to no avail. By the time I got home some 30 miles later the clicking had developed into creaking on every revolution of the crank. The noise stopped when I turned the motor off but oddly the noise also stopped when I put the motor onto power mode and asserted lots of leg power. All this seemed to come about after I oiled my chain with 3 in 1 oil (I was in a rush to get to work!). The oil then proceeded to deposit itself all over the bike!

So at the weekend I methodically removed the plastic panels that shroud the motor module checking the 3 bolts holding the motor, they were all tight. Never the less I dropped the motor from the frame and could see no evidence that the motor had been moving on its mounts. So I cleaned everything up, including the chain and cassette (which were covered in 3 in1 oil) then dry lubricated the chain, derailleurs and cassette, and put everything back together. I then took the bike out for a test run and no more clicking from the crank.

“The good old take it apart, find nothing wrong and put it back together method”


On a separate note and I don’t know if this is related to the issue that “Giantbadge” had but every time I hit a bump in the road my fork stem clicks or cracks. I’ve had this a few time on my Giant Deft 3 (which is aluminium).

Is this something that is inherent with aluminium frames?

And does anyone else suffer this?


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## sight-pin (13 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> clicking noise coming from what seemed to be the crank or motor area (like an aluminium frame clicking on steel bolts).


It's not the chain hitting the derailleur is it. the noise i mean is in this video, you can hear the noise if you fast forward the vid to 16:45 once he gets it into top gear (11) https://electricbikereview.com/giant/road-e-plus/


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## sight-pin (13 Feb 2018)

@Country Bumpkin. Out of interest: Do you have to unscrew the front cogs in order to be able to get to the screws that hold the "plastic panels" on or is it possible without dropping the 50 tooth gear?


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## Country Bumpkin (14 Feb 2018)

I've always had to drop both rings in order to get to the screws.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (14 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> OK, so I solved the padded short slippage dilemma, I’ve taken to wearing them under my cycling trousers/tights and not on top. Oh and “Site Pin” I took a leaf from your book and went without underwear….”No more chafing!!” Yeah
> 
> Moving on to a different topic, I put in 240 miles last week commuting to work for four days in a row. On the last day my bike developed a clicking noise coming from what seemed to be the crank or motor area (like an aluminium frame clicking on steel bolts). I stopped several times to tighten what I could around the motor and frame but to no avail. By the time I got home some 30 miles later the clicking had developed into creaking on every revolution of the crank. The noise stopped when I turned the motor off but oddly the noise also stopped when I put the motor onto power mode and asserted lots of leg power. All this seemed to come about after I oiled my chain with 3 in 1 oil (I was in a rush to get to work!). The oil then proceeded to deposit itself all over the bike!
> 
> ...


Hi country bumpkin, I have also experienced that clicking from the motor & it turned out to be those motor mount bolts had came slightly loose, think they have a high torque setting but this is fine now.
Your creeking noise from your forks if you hold the front brake & rock the bike you should get that noise which means your forks are probably broke.
As on my previous post when they replaced my bike to the 2017 model after a 100 miles I had the cranking again, they found no grease at all in the headstock.
This worked for a bit, but then broke again so I would if you can get it down to your dealer as my shop didn’t want me to ride it in case they snapped completely.
Fingers crossed mine are sorted now.


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## Country Bumpkin (15 Feb 2018)

Hi Giantbadge I’m pretty sure my bike doesn’t do as you have suggested (although I will double check later) it does it when I go over drain covers and sudden hard dips in the road surface.

On a different note, I bought a sprintech mirror from the USA (like foghat has) I’ll let you all know how I get on with it. I’ve tried lots of different types of mirror over the years and they all seem to vibrate too much on my road bikes.


Finally a question for site-pin, how is your kick stand and is it stable on a slightly sloping surface?
The reason I ask is that I’m concerned about damaging my bike every time I stop for the call of nature and have to lie my bike down on the road side. Was it expensive and where did you get it?


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## sight-pin (15 Feb 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> The bike is stored in my garage unheated, Giant had a batch of controllers that Were tested & found where cables went in water was creeping in.
> It’s not been out in the wet though?.
> The spanner light will come on when a service is needed, bit like a car.
> 
> ,



Any news on the expected new display from Giant yet?


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## sight-pin (15 Feb 2018)

Country Bumpkin said:


> Finally a question for site-pin, how is your kick stand and is it stable on a slightly sloping surface?
> The reason I ask is that I’m concerned about damaging my bike every time I stop for the call of nature and have to lie my bike down on the road side. Was it expensive and where did you get it?



To be honest i had fears that my heel may get caught on the stand as it does stick out a bit but had no problems on a short 4 mile ride the other day so phew!
It does seem sturdy yes but as yet, not tested it on any slopes.
I preferred this one from the Ursus Wave that Giant suggested. ( http://jumpsport.sk/produkt/106922/stojanek-kickstand-ursus-wave-r81-blk-rear-mount-2-bolts) as it doesn't seem so strong. The one i have came from 'Wildoo' http://www.wildoo.co.uk/shop/pletscher-comp18-flex-rear-kickstand/
I think it's a bit cheaper after you send it to basket £18 IIRC But this on is listed as supporting upto 50 KG.

Edit: If you go for the Pletscher from Wildoo send him a quick email requesting M6 x 20 screws as mine came with M5 screws. I sent him an email about this as in the add it's saying comes with M6 screws. He did want to send me a couple of screws but i just popped down to Toolstation near me and bought 50 A2 stainless for about £3.


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## sight-pin (15 Feb 2018)

You can see the Giant kickstand in this video at 5:45 https://electricbikereview.com/giant/quick-e-plus/


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## sight-pin (15 Feb 2018)

SJS Cycles have a good supply of mirrors including Sprintech mirrors where i purchased mine from
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/mirrors/


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (15 Feb 2018)

sight-pin said:


> Any news on the expected new display from Giant yet?


Yes i had new display fitted last week.
See how long this one last.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (15 Feb 2018)

Sight pin do you get to leave your bike inside your house?


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## sight-pin (15 Feb 2018)

Yeah. It's in an understairs cupboard in the kitchen


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (15 Feb 2018)

sight-pin said:


> Yeah. It's in an understairs cupboard in the kitchen


I wanted to bring in my motorbike & push bikes, but she is having none of it


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## sight-pin (15 Feb 2018)

. Try soft soap & a bunch of flowers.... Probably get you nowhere though


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## Country Bumpkin (16 Feb 2018)

I had to replace my screen for a new one (the replacement loom comes with the red connector) after I had water ingress and the display just wouldn't switch on.
Giant were very good about it, no hassle. one call to the dealer explaining the problem and two days later I had a brand new MKII display.

Thanks for the links "site pin" I'll take a look at those later.


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## Fratercula (22 Feb 2018)

Picked up a 2018 UK model on Monday. It is one of a batch shipped in early January.

The frame has changed. Bottle bosses are missing, Rear stay redesigned so no bosses for a rack.

Very disappointed


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## sight-pin (23 Feb 2018)

Fratercula said:


> Picked up a 2018 UK model on Monday. It is one of a batch shipped in early January.
> 
> The frame has changed. Bottle bosses are missing, Rear stay redesigned so no bosses for a rack.
> 
> Very disappointed



Hi & welcome to the forum.
I didn't notice the "bosses" absence in the add pics. How does it ride?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Feb 2018)

Fratercula said:


> Picked up a 2018 UK model on Monday. It is one of a batch shipped in early January.
> 
> The frame has changed. Bottle bosses are missing, Rear stay redesigned so no bosses for a rack.
> 
> Very disappointed


Welcome Fratercula,sorry to hear your missing a few bosses.
You could always swap with my 2017 bike, it will be nice to hear your thoughts on the latest model.
Enjoy.....


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Feb 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> View attachment 384411



Your right no bosses


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## sheltiedoulos (27 Feb 2018)

Now, I am debating getting this bike or the Trek crossrip +.
IMHO, Trek rode slightly better. Do you guys have experience with that bike (not sure it is available in Europe)?
I have also tried Giant Quick E+ - it is nice but a bit too bulky (you can really feel the extra 5 pounds on that bike).
BTW, they have a new Road E+ (at least in the US) with an upgraded computer. It adds two extra level of assist (eco+ and normal+).
I test rode it but I am not sure whether this is worth the extra $200 they are asking.


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## Foghat (28 Feb 2018)

Fratercula said:


> The frame has changed. Bottle bosses are missing



Bloody hell. Giant must have handed over design matters to the resident moron.



Fratercula said:


> Rear stay redesigned so no bosses for a rack.



Gordon Bennett.

Yet another case of an organisation bolloxing up its own designs.


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## sight-pin (1 Mar 2018)

I'm wondering if a bottle cage would interfere with mounting the battery? although i don't think it would if it's the same idea as the 2016 / 2017 models.
Or maybe they're hoping buyers with drill and mount their own bosses and thus: void the guarantee.


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## kcflyer1957 (2 Mar 2018)

sight-pin said:


> I'm wondering if a bottle cage would interfere with mounting the battery? although i don't think it would if it's the same idea as the 2016 / 2017 models.
> Or maybe they're hoping buyers with drill and mount their own bosses and thus: void the guarantee.


The bottle cage is my only complaint I have with my 2017...the taller water bottle brushes the bottom of the cross tube so I have to stop to get a drink. I wear a Camelback hydration pack on longer rides, which I secretly prefer, but the "road bike fashionistas" tend to frown at.


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## si_c (2 Mar 2018)

kcflyer1957 said:


> The bottle cage is my only complaint I have with my 2017...the taller water bottle brushes the bottom of the cross tube so I have to stop to get a drink. I wear a Camelback hydration pack on longer rides, which I secretly prefer, but the "road bike fashionistas" tend to frown at.



Try a side loading bottle cage.


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## OldRoadie (5 Mar 2018)

Hi All! I just got my 2018 Giant E+1 here in the US. Speaking of no water bottle bosses on the frame, I ordered a small sized one. I test rode a medium at my local shop and noticed it had water bottle bosses on the seat tube, but when I received the small frame, there were no bottle bosses at all! My solution was a velcro and rubber mount device, called Two Fish .... google that. It was like $16 and attaches to the seat tube. It seems secure once the velcro is pulled tight. I mounted a side access cage on that, so I could mount a tall bottle. So, that sort of solves the water bottle mounting. If I need more bottles, I'm stuck with stuffing them in the jersey pockets .... not as bad a s I thought after I tried it.


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## sheltiedoulos (8 Mar 2018)

Question...
Where do you guys mount the front light on this bike?
I don't think there is enough room on the handle bar (I want to keep that cute bell).
Are there lights I can buy that mount on the down tube? (or front forks)?

I took the bike out last weekend doing 19.4 miles with 1270 feet of climb.
Never got out of eco mode (averaging 14.9 mph). Went out with 51% battery. When I am done, I have around 24% left.
Perhaps, I should not have gotten that spare battery. 
By the way, I was biking harder on this bike than my regular bike. I hit >100% of my max heart rate quite a few times during this ride.
I guess it is psychological - I do not have to hold back on hills knowing that I can always limp home on electric assist.


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## sight-pin (8 Mar 2018)

sheltiedoulos said:


> Where do you guys mount the front light on this bike?



You could always use a handlebar extender https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/genetic-neuron-accessory-bar/ I use a Fly 12 camera with a built in light fitted to a handlebar mount https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/accessories/mpart-handlebar-mount-for-action-cameras-318-mm-black/


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## sheltiedoulos (8 Mar 2018)

OK - thanks!
Actually, I was thinking about the handlebar extender also - I have a very old one somewhere.
However, I think the Giant handlebar may be too thick.
I also saw your second option here in US - it is made by k-edge - sort of expensive. For the arm, it is $39 and then I need to get the attachment adapter for my Niterider light which is another $20.
Will try the handlebar extender first to see if it fits the e+ handlebar.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (8 Mar 2018)

Got my light on ok


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## Foghat (9 Mar 2018)

I use a handlebar mount. I started off without one, as my main front light does have enough space, but stretching the o-ring around the extra diameter created by the cables and bar tape was causing it too much stress, and it's best to keep to the 31.8mm of the raw bar (which is the same as the mount's extension piece).


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## sight-pin (9 Mar 2018)

My configuration including the bell


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## sheltiedoulos (11 Mar 2018)

Alas, my old handle bar extender does not fit (only 22-29mm).
Hopefully, the newly ordered one (all the way up to 31.8) will work.
For now, I swapped out the bell with my niterider Lumina light.

FYI for people who are considering this bike.
I went out today with a fully charged battery (estimated range of 96 miles).
Did 46 miles with 5000 ft of climb.
Stayed mostly in ECO mode except for < 10 minutes in NORMAL mode on the last section of the last hill. 
Finished with 30% of battery left (estimated range of 27 miles).
So i do not think I really need that spare battery - oh well.
(BTW, I am 144 lbs and carrying a pannier that weighs around 10 lbs (mainly spare battery and water).





My new trusty little bike


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (11 Mar 2018)

sheltiedoulos said:


> Alas, my old handle bar extender does not fit (only 22-29mm).
> Hopefully, the newly ordered one (all the way up to 31.8) will work.
> For now, I swapped out the bell with my niterider Lumina light.
> 
> ...


On most of my flat roads I turn the motor off all together as I’m sure there is a little resistance when you get over 16 mph, on a few occasions a have got ove 100 miles on one charge.
Obviously depends on how many hills on route.


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## kcflyer1957 (13 Mar 2018)

sheltiedoulos said:


> Alas, my old handle bar extender does not fit (only 22-29mm).
> Hopefully, the newly ordered one (all the way up to 31.8) will work.
> For now, I swapped out the bell with my niterider Lumina light.
> 
> ...


I weigh 260 pounds and I'm pretty sure it loses about 30% when it sees me coming!


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## sheltiedoulos (13 Mar 2018)

FYI - I got my spare battery (500 watt version) for around $600.
I think this is near cost since I bought the bike at the same place.


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## kcflyer1957 (14 Mar 2018)

Spring is back here in the midwest (USA) and I took the day off to ride. I ride for recreation - my community is not bicycle friendly enough to try to commute to work (13 miles one way) so I ride on weekends, or on weekdays when it's gorgeous outside (such as today). And this bike is fun to fly around on. But today I rode with the mantra "Off is an option". Did about 95% of the ride with the assist turned off. It's actually a great road bike with the assist turned off - despite it's weight. I've had this bike for about a year and I think that it's the nearest thing to perfect for a guy like me - a little on the old side who could use a wee bit of assist from time to time. And face it - it just looks badass....I stopped at a park to fill my water bottle and a cute young mother looked at it and said "I like your bike". Who am I to disagree!


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## sheltiedoulos (15 Mar 2018)

Well, kcflyer, beware of cute young mother...

There is a popular local hill here (3.5 miles, 1250 feet climb) that I go up quite frequently.
Last year (before my ebike), I managed to pass this cute young mother on the hill (for all these years, the number of times I manage to pass other bikers on this hill can be counted in one single hand). The best thing is that she looks no more than 100 pounds and she was dragging a Burley with her toddler inside which probably have a combined weight of 50 pounds. So I managed to pass her and then rode some more on the ridge. When I looped back and descended the same hill half an hour later, I met her coming up the hill the second time. It was scary.


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## Beefcake 4000 (22 Mar 2018)

Hi all,

I came across this thread and decided to join up to add my own experience. I own a Giant TCR advance which I was very happy with but commuting 35 miles a day over a pretty big hill was really taking it out of me and limited my cycling to 1-2 days a week, I have a small child that I have to drop off at nursery in the morning at 8 so getting back and getting to work for 9 (especially over the pretty grim winter we've had here in UK) was hard work.

I bought the Road-E2 as it was on a massive sale (down to £1600 from £2300), I looked at 'converting' the TCR or getting another bike to electrifiy, but hub motors don't really appeal and its only really Bafang that do strap-on mid drives, plus I didn't want cable ties and duck tape holding everything together. There are exceptions out there but the majority of converted bikes look like yard sales, bits everywhere loosely connected. At its reduced price the difference in buying a Bafang mid-drive, a decent battery pack, a charger and a controller wouldn't have left me much change for a donor bike with disc brakes.

I'm using it for commuting and more importantly to make that commute as quick as possible, so the first thing I did was a dirty de-restrict. You can unbolt the sensor and cable tie it to the chain stay and put a magnet on the pedal, it works a treat, the numbers get screwed on the display but the only number I actually care about is the time it takes door to door. I've since properly derestricted it with a Speedbox 2, which is a bit of an extravagance just to get the correct speed, but at least it will record distance properly so I can monitor servicing.

Derestricted this thing is a viable alternative to a car, which is exactly what I need it to be. My 17.5 mile single way journey takes me approx. 40 minutes (its a 30 minute journey by car) nearly regardless of weather, this morning had a vicious head wind that would have made for very slow progress but the bike ploughed through it fine. On a flat piece of road I can hold 30mph, as my commuting route is mainly 30 & 40 limits on narrow single lanes, I’m less of a chicane and far less annoying to busses and Lorries that would otherwise struggle to get past me. The notable downside to my high speed pedal commute is battery burn, 17 miles consumes 70-80% of the battery, it doesn’t bother me as I can take the charger with me in my bag but it’s worth noting for anyone wanting to do a similar thing with a longer commute, the Road E-2 does also have a smaller battery pack than the 1. The other notable downside is the brakes, I’ve never been a fan of cable discs, the TRP’s are OK, but that’s about as good as it gets, the 105 calipers on my TCR give more feel and stopping power, but then the Road-E weight twice as much and I’m invariably going much faster so its not eggs for eggs. I’ll upgrade to hydro’s at some point but other than that the bike is superb for what I’m doing and how I use it.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Mar 2018)

beefcake, with the sensor turned round I managed 40 miles with an average speed of 20mph & was left with 10% battery.
It does fly along your doing well to hold 30mph, but I rarely do the switch as I do think it will kill the battery a lot sooner & at £600  I prefer the restriction.
The hydraulic brakes are good on the e+1 especially going down hill over 40mph.
I’m a weekend cyclist so luckily don’t have to worry about a commute.


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## Beefcake 4000 (23 Mar 2018)

Hi Giantbadge, I wouldn't worry too much about current draw (I'm a steam and con rod guy but work with some very smart electrical guys) I've been assured that the type of cells used should be good for repeated deep draw with no memory effect. Because I'm using the bike as a commuter I have to look at it as a financial aid, its saving me a tonne of cash so I could get a new battery every 3 months and break even, so even if it last me a year I'm still up on the deal. I'm hoping by then someone much smarter than me will a failed battery and posted a clip on youtube showing how to cut the battery box and refill it with new higher capacity cells.

She does fly but the best bit is you are still working hard, anyone who thinks riding ebikes is a cop-out really needs to spend sometime with one, I probably ride harder over the entireity of my ride than I did on the TCR, plus nuking super fit weight weenies is addictive in full commuter kit with a 5 kg back pack.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Mar 2018)

As I don’t charge mine that often so yours will probably last longer than mine then.
I agree you do work harder on a ebike, it is addictive, the battery is a lump think it’s more than my defy 4.


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## sight-pin (15 Apr 2018)

On the subject of batteries, Do you remove your battery after rides or just leave it in situ? Come to that does it make any difference anyway?


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## proton666 (16 Apr 2018)

Only took mine off once to fix the rattle problem. I don't think it matters really unless you plan to store the bike unused for months.


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## OldRoadie (16 Apr 2018)

I take my battery off in the winter or when the garage gets to 45 F. or below and keep it in the house to charge and store. Now that it's warming slightly, I can leave it on the bike and charge in the garage. Speaking of the battery, did any of you notice a rattle when going over bumps or rough road from the battery mount? My shop where I purchased said the demo model has a rattle and they fixed it by sticking weather stripping foam under the battery. I thought that a bit thick, so I used duct tape, 6-7 layers to build up the base a little where the battery clicks in. That seems to work. I just wanted to see if this was a prob for everybody.


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## proton666 (16 Apr 2018)

Yup. Rattled from day 1. I used .125" single sided foam tape (sticky on one side only). Silent since...


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## OldRoadie (16 Apr 2018)

I used duct tape cause it's what was handy. No more noise.


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## OldRoadie (17 Apr 2018)

On another subject, online registration with Giant of the e-bike. Has anyone done it? I was wondering if I needed warranty work done (not yet!), if registration was an issue. Or do I just go back to the shop I purchased it from and they take care of it? The reason I ask, is to complete the online registration, you need the serial number of the frame located on the bottom bracket. Well, to see the serial number there, you need to remove the cover (mud guard) over the motor and that involves removing the chain rings to access the screw on the cover! This seemed like a lot of work just to see the serial number, so if Giant registration is not an issue when claiming warranty work, I'll just leave well enough alone and go back to the shop if I need work and maybe they can deal with Giant. Anyone dealt with this issue?


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## Woolyhatcheck (17 Apr 2018)

Beefcake 4000 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I came across this thread and decided to join up to add my own experience. I own a Giant TCR advance which I was very happy with but commuting 35 miles a day over a pretty big hill was really taking it out of me and limited my cycling to 1-2 days a week, I have a small child that I have to drop off at nursery in the morning at 8 so getting back and getting to work for 9 (especially over the pretty grim winter we've had here in UK) was hard work.
> 
> ...


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## Woolyhatcheck (17 Apr 2018)

Hi Beefcake 
I too have an e + 2 and have a very hilly commute. The trp spyres were a bit uninspiring but I changed the rotors to quality floating ones and put a 180 on the front - it makes a big difference!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Apr 2018)

sight-pin said:


> On the subject of batteries, Do you remove your battery after rides or just leave it in situ? Come to that does it make any difference anyway?


I only take mine off when it is really cold, I’m not allowed to have my bike in the house.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Apr 2018)

OldRoadie said:


> On another subject, online registration with Giant of the e-bike. Has anyone done it? I was wondering if I needed warranty work done (not yet!), if registration was an issue. Or do I just go back to the shop I purchased it from and they take care of it? The reason I ask, is to complete the online registration, you need the serial number of the frame located on the bottom bracket. Well, to see the serial number there, you need to remove the cover (mud guard) over the motor and that involves removing the chain rings to access the screw on the cover! This seemed like a lot of work just to see the serial number, so if Giant registration is not an issue when claiming warranty work, I'll just leave well enough alone and go back to the shop if I need work and maybe they can deal with Giant. Anyone dealt with this issue?



Hi oldroadie, I’ve registered mine due to early warranty problems, I’m sure I didn’t take off all that kit to see the number.
Is it on your receipt from dealer? I will have a look tomorrow just to check.


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## sight-pin (17 Apr 2018)

OldRoadie said:


> you need the serial number of the frame



The frame number is stamped on the frame, left side near the rear wheel axle on mine (2016 E+1 version)


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (18 Apr 2018)

On my 17 model there is a sticker at the top of frame other side of battery where forks enter frame.another one is on motor as you say. 
I don’t have a stamp on rear axle


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## sight-pin (18 Apr 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> On my 17 model there is a sticker at the top of frame other side of battery where forks enter frame.another one is on motor as you say.
> I don’t have a stamp on rear axle



You can see it in that video at 4.19 just left of the axle on 17 model, The same stickers are on mine as well.
https://electricbikereview.com/giant/road-e-plus/


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## OldRoadie (26 Apr 2018)

I got the serial number from my dealer who had a record from Giant. Funny though, that number doesn't match any of the stickers I can fully see. I see one on the bottom bracket but not the entire number without taking off the shroud. I got registered anyway along with the key number, just in case I lose both!


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## sight-pin (26 Apr 2018)

I took a few mobile images of all the stickers i could find including the number stamped on the back of the frame which is also the number they used for the sales receipt. I'm wondering if these different paper printed stickers are for the individual parts or something?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (5 May 2018)

Do you guys take off mudguards in the summer ?


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## Foghat (5 May 2018)

For daily commuting in rain-and-mud-infested Britain? No chance!!

For weekend and other non-commuting riding, I have a range of wet-weather bikes with mudguards and dry-weather bikes without mudguards. These aren't summer/winter-specific but get used according to conditions regardless of the time of year.

Much prefer riding without mudguards, but then again I detest the relentless need for extensive bike-cleaning due to repeatedly spraying wet mud all over everything, so in Britain of course the mudguard bikes get the most use.


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## proton666 (6 May 2018)

Asking the wrong guy. It NEVER rains in California... lol. But I got so use to mud going everywhere back when I was riding competitive cyclocross that I hardly notice now. In fact, there is a kind of comfort in it (memories of my misspent youth). But, as this bike kinda zooms I have found I get a lot wetter, a lot faster on an ebike. If I were using this as a commuter I would never remove the guards because even a small pool of standing water from a sprinkler is enough to stripe the wardrobe.


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## sh4rkc (18 May 2018)

Hello! 

Im interesting in buying Giant road-e+ 1 pro. Im wondering now how much boost i would get if the settings are set to eco mode. I average on flat around 18 mile's how much boost would i get? Or if i push around 200 watts for entire course how much extra wattage would the e-bike give it. I would unrestrict the bike soo it would be unlocked. And for how many miles or kilometers would battery last in eco mode at that wattage? 

Thank you

Jure


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## Pale Rider (18 May 2018)

sh4rkc said:


> Hello!
> 
> Im interesting in buying Giant road-e+ 1 pro. Im wondering now how much boost i would get if the settings are set to eco mode. I average on flat around 18 mile's how much boost would i get? Or if i push around 200 watts for entire course how much extra wattage would the e-bike give it. I would unrestrict the bike soo it would be unlocked. And for how many miles or kilometers would battery last in eco mode at that wattage?
> 
> ...



Impossible question to answer given there are so many variables.

The 'resistance cubed' equation means a few extra mph uses disproportionately more power.

Terrain plays a big part, lots of climbing will sap your battery whatever speed you are doing.

Don't expect too much from a de-restricted crank drive bike, the motors are designed for torque, not speed, although doing, say, 20mph, will be easier than if the motor had cut out.

Testing a bike would be instructive, but you are unlikely to find one de-restricted.

You won't fully know if the bike will do what you want it to unless you buy one and use it for a few weeks.


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## welsh dragon (18 May 2018)

As pale rider says, impossible to calculate really. There are so many factors, like your weight. How much extra weight you will carry IE bags, rucksacks etc and how fit or unfit you are.

It is very much like asking how long is a piece of string, and as Pale Rider says, the only sure way to find out will be to buy one and find out by riding it.


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## proton666 (18 May 2018)

Yeah. Agree with all of this. I found the biggest gains, or losses, come from how you ride an ebike. Took me about a month or two to figure out the best way to ride to achieve my desired range to permanence ratios. Can't do much about my weight. Can't significantly change what the bike weighs either. Wind and hills just happen. But I could change my riding style. So in the end it's the zen thing again.


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## sh4rkc (20 May 2018)

Thank you for your answers . I dont know if i would buy it. Im not weak rider, when im fit i have 66 kg and 320 of ftp ( 4.8 w/kg ). I just want to go even faster . But im worried that battery wont last long. Only for 50km or less in eco mode, if i unrestrict the bike and thats is not enough for me.


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## kcflyer1957 (20 May 2018)

Getting back to wet weather. I was going to do a group ride and was in some very heavy rain while the bike was on the back of my car. I opted out of the ride when lightning started striking, but to and from the event, it was raining hard. Now my control panel is on and won't shut off. I tried holding the power button - it turns off, but then turns right back on. I pulled the battery and towel dried everything but as soon as I connect, the control panel comes back on. I currently have the battery off and used a blow dryer around the unit. I plan on leaving it off a couple of hours to see if that works. Has anybody else had this happen?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (20 May 2018)

Sh4rkc
You be better off getting a moped


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (20 May 2018)

kcflyer1957 said:


> Getting back to wet weather. I was going to do a group ride and was in some very heavy rain while the bike was on the back of my car. I opted out of the ride when lightning started striking, but to and from the event, it was raining hard. Now my control panel is on and won't shut off. I tried holding the power button - it turns off, but then turns right back on. I pulled the battery and towel dried everything but as soon as I connect, the control panel comes back on. I currently have the battery off and used a blow dryer around the unit. I plan on leaving it off a couple of hours to see if that works. Has anybody else had this happen?



If you look on my earlier post I had the same problem 2017 model?.
Giant have tested the panel & found where cables enter the unit water is getting in,so mine was replaced under warranty 2 day turnaround


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## kcflyer1957 (20 May 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> If you look on my earlier post I had the same problem 2017 model?.
> Giant have tested the panel & found where cables enter the unit water is getting in,so mine was replaced under warranty 2 day turnaround


Thanks....Looks like I'll be taking it to the LBS...it's not quite a year old, so I should be under warranty. It was working fine, but now it won't turn off, nor will it change modes.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (20 May 2018)

kcflyer1957 said:


> Thanks....Looks like I'll be taking it to the LBS...it's not quite a year old, so I should be under warranty. It was working fine, but now it won't turn off, nor will it change modes.


My dealer said that all the ones giant uk tested failed, so should ok.


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## kcflyer1957 (21 May 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> My dealer said that all the ones giant uk tested failed, so should ok.


I searching on the internet, I was able to find the reason it doesn't switch - it has to do with the "walk assist" It was preventing modes from changing. So I was able to fix that, but it still powers itself back on immediately after it's turned off. Again - the culprit there was water.


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## oldwheels (23 May 2018)

I cannot comment too much but I have a GTech bike which has a quoted range of 40 miles but IME this seem about 20 miles for my use. I do not commute but it seems to me this is a good commuting bike for shortish distances with belt drive single speed. It gives a good boost into headwinds or uphill at reasonable speeds. At less than 7 mph or thereabouts there seems to be no assist but if you can keep the speed up it is ok. Hill starts seem a problem but I am still working on this to see if I can get a workaround.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 May 2018)

Just off up through cheddar Gorge.


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## sight-pin (27 May 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> Just off up through cheddar Gorge.



How'd it go?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 May 2018)

sight-pin said:


> How'd it go?


Well it rained virtually the whole way, found the gorge a breeze really even though there was 2ft wide channel of water running down at me.
Really enjoyed it though, 31 miles it’s about a 1300ft climb & decent but only got through 20% battery.


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## sight-pin (28 May 2018)

Nice one. I thought it may be a bit wet judging by the the weather reports.


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## proton666 (29 May 2018)

Oh man.... That looks like soooo much fun. Wish I was there...


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (30 May 2018)

LAW


View: https://www.facebook.com/globalcyclingnetwork/videos/1049096728579383/


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## Pale Rider (30 May 2018)

Very misleading video from GCN - they must be desperate for clicks.

For lots of reasons, the EU proposal won't happen in the UK so it's a non-story.


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## proton666 (2 Jun 2018)

Hate things like this. Not sure if their fishing for clicks to pass on or they think they are doing some kind of PSA (Public Service Announcement here in the US). Either way this kind of "Uh-Oh" tactic is something I would more expect to see on this side of the Atlantic (but here you would expect to see the word e-bike replaced with the word gun...).


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## kcflyer1957 (3 Jun 2018)

If there was going to be a law, it seems to me it would make more sense to have it affect throttle ebikes and not pedelecs.


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## proton666 (6 Jun 2018)

Final prototype is out to fill that gap between the down tube and the top tube. If it mechanically fits as expected I can move on to some stylistic enhancements (like not green ...lol).



x


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## proton666 (8 Jun 2018)

Wellll.... Measure twice, print once I guess. Back to the drawing board.


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## Foghat (8 Jul 2018)

Foghat said:


> Tyre update
> 
> Unhappy with the fact that Continental's '37mm' Top Contact Winter Premium tyres actually measure a ridiculously undersized 32mm, I recently made enquiries on other forums about the real-world size of the '42mm' version. With no data coming back in response, I took a risk and bought a pair of '42mm' tyres



Tyre update update.

Having successfully deployed the superbly gripsome 42mm Continental Top Contact Winter tyres, I've established that, for my purposes, 42mm is the optimum tyre width all year round for commuting on this bike on Britain's direly maintained rural lanes. This is largely due to the rigidity of the frame and weight of the bike meaning maximising comfort with high-volume tyres at low pressure is essential for my high commuting workload on such bad roads.

Accordingly, whilst the Top Contact Winters get used when the temperature drops below 4 degrees C, for above 4 degrees I've also switched from 37mm regular (i.e. non-winter-specific) Top Contacts to 42mm versions. These are much higher volume, but only slightly slower, and significantly more comfortable.

With 42mm tyres, clearance on the 45mm SKS Longboard mudguards was a bit too close on the rear. So I've procured a 53mm rear mudguard (not a Longboard, they only come in 35mm/45mm), which alleviates that problem. I kept the 45mm Longboard on the front, because the 53mm front is way (indeed ridiculously) shorter and would dramatically increase the amount of wet mud being chucked all over my feet and the drivetrain, rear wheel etc (even with a long mudflap). The width mismatch is hardly noticeable. Having said that, not getting mud sprayed everywhere during the last few weeks of dry warm weather has been a rare pleasure indeed…...


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## DadoBR (20 Jul 2018)

great thread and very informative. Another USA rider here and have a 2018 Giant Road E+1 on the way (Monday 7/23/18). I currently commute two to three days a week 20 miles each way and on my third year. Some days I am just not feeling it so that's where the RoadE will fit for me. My average door to door is between 19-20mph so I am very curious how the RoadE will do as I am mostly in the 25MPH range during my ride and reaching 40mph from time to time. 

I see some recent talk of replacing the front chain ring for more top end so that definitely sparked my interest . 

Next week I will be commuting on it for the first time so I will see how the battery lasts. My plan is to pedal just as hard but just go faster on the hills to bring my average even higher. I will be happy to break the 21mph average door to door so let's see  My current ride is a Cervelo S5 DI2.

Not sure if it will be an issue yet but where can I buy an extra battery charger? I would like to have one at work and one at home. I don't really feel like carrying it around. I can't find anything online so for the US riders, what is the part #?

Thanks all.


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## proton666 (21 Jul 2018)

First , welcome aboard.

If I'm not mistaken I think the only charger that works is the one Giant sells (order through your Giant dealer $$$!). I have read that riders have tried other non Giant chargers bought through Amazon etc. but all have failed to charge the Giant battery (all seem to have the correct specs to do the job but...). That's not to say there isn't one out there, just nobody seems to have found one that works yet.

Edit: Oh, wait, he did...


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Jul 2018)

Seen this site https://electricgarageshop.co.uk/c/e-bike-charger not cheap though.


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## DadoBR (26 Jul 2018)

2 days commuting on the Road E so far and pretty happy. I did have to order a new charger from Giant as it seems my speed is eating away at the battery even when switching between eco mode and normal. My 20 mile each way commute which I was averaging 19-20mph is now above 24mph essentially bringing my commute time to under 50 minutes at a whooping 48:24 thus far. I really had to baby the bike on the way back home as I was running out of battery and made it back with 4% left on the battery. Sure takes some time getting used to the weight compared to my Cervelo but the brakes are pretty damn good.

I smashed quite a few KOM's on strava causing panic which got me reported and all entries removed from leaderboard 






Not bad at all!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Jul 2018)

Once your over the 15.5mph the motor cuts out so you shouldn’t be using any of the battery life?.
I do a 1400ft on a 31mile ride & a 20-25% drain on the battery mostly with eco & power, so maybe ur battery is faulty?.
Have you de-restricted the bike as that would make sense on the drain.


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## kellis (28 Jul 2018)

Hi i may be wrong but i think the American version of the e-bike gose up to 25mph before the assist stops working


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Jul 2018)

kellis said:


> Hi i may be wrong but i think the American version of the e-bike gose up to 25mph before the assist stops working


Ah maybe  the assist would be on virtually the whole time then..


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## proton666 (28 Jul 2018)

Goes up to 27 mph here (California) I think. However, the amount of the assist seems inverses to the speed so as you get closer to 27 mph you get less and less assist. But at those speeds you are just burning battery to mainly push air out of the way.


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## proton666 (30 Jul 2018)

He He.... This is nice to hear (ebike fitness study):

https://newatlas.com/ebike-fitness-study/55662/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2018-07-30 142813 USA Daily Basic 2018-07-30 143808 Tiny Microlino EV now street legal in Europe moving into production&utm_content=2018-07-30 142813 USA Daily Basic 2018-07-30 143808 Tiny Microlino EV now street legal in Europe moving into production+CID_b08c3b157ffd805d56b1aba0054b50ff&utm_source=Campaign Monitor&utm_term=Read more


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## DadoBR (1 Aug 2018)

proton666 said:


> Goes up to 27 mph here (California) I think. However, the amount of the assist seems inverses to the speed so as you get closer to 27 mph you get less and less assist. But at those speeds you are just burning battery to mainly push air out of the way.



Right, that's what it feels like. Assist gets less and less and cuts out completely around 26mph.


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## MasterDabber (2 Aug 2018)

DadoBR said:


> 2 days commuting on the Road E so far and pretty happy. I did have to order a new charger from Giant as it seems my speed is eating away at the battery even when switching between eco mode and normal. My 20 mile each way commute which I was averaging 19-20mph is now above 24mph essentially bringing my commute time to under 50 minutes at a whooping 48:24 thus far. I really had to baby the bike on the way back home as I was running out of battery and made it back with 4% left on the battery. Sure takes some time getting used to the weight compared to my Cervelo but the brakes are pretty damn good.
> 
> I smashed quite a few KOM's on strava causing panic which got me reported and all entries removed from leaderboard
> 
> ...



Why don't you upload you ebike ride as a Private ride?


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## welsh dragon (2 Aug 2018)

I think there is a section on Strava dedicated to ebikers. This saves calls (and rightly so) of cheating by riders that use non electric bikes. Or as the poster above says, save as a private ride.


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## sight-pin (2 Aug 2018)

All you need do is Just click on "Add a description" box and tick the "Hide from Segment and Challenge Leaderboards" box. then that ride and any future rides won't appear on the leader boards. Their is also an 'E-Bike Ride' option box option in the same display.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (29 Aug 2018)

Took my bike in for what I thought was a dry squeaking noise from the pedal crank when going up steep hills,
The shop have sorted this out but while test riding my bike they are very concerned that my forks are broke again??.
Surely after they redesigned this fork for me supposedly .
They are speaking to giant & will find out more next week...


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## Foghat (31 Aug 2018)

Looks like Giant has reverted from its no-bottle-cage-bosses foolishness for the 2019 model:

Giant Road E+1 Pro 2019


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## proton666 (2 Sep 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> Took my bike in for what I thought was a dry squeaking noise from the pedal crank when going up steep hills,
> The shop have sorted this out but while test riding my bike they are very concerned that my forks are broke again??.
> Surely after they redesigned this fork for me supposedly .
> They are speaking to giant & will find out more next week...



Well hell. The good news is that you will be able to give us a review of the 2019 model . How many miles has it been since the last fork fiasco?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (3 Sep 2018)

Well I managed about 370 miles, so the fork has definitely broke & giant won’t offer me an exchange bike only a refund.
Anyway there are no 2018 bikes in a large size available & there is a 6-7 week wait for the 2019 model which comes in an XL so right size for me?..
It’s only the L size frame there having the problem with which the shop think is because the fork being longer than the s & m causing extra stress plus being a heavy bike.
Giant want the bike taken back to the factory so I’m left with F- ck all again, have been really enjoying it lately as well.
My shop are looking at the best thing they can do for me so it doesn’t cost me anymore money but don’t have any e road bikes in there range anymore, but I do like the look of this https://road.cc/content/news/237301-first-look-bianchi-impulso-e-road.
I have thought maybe getting a decent road bike something like a defy advanced pro but I would miss an e-bike for my hill climbs,the shop said I could have a nice carbon bike while I’m waiting.


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## proton666 (4 Sep 2018)

Yeah the Bianchi is on top of my short list for a Giant replacement (eventually). Just has better proportions. 

Sounds like your shop has got your back where as Giant... well, not so much. But you got a good summer out of it anyway. Keep us posted.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (5 Sep 2018)

Looking around at other bikes there isn’t anything that can match the giant pro 2019 battery range & for the price.
It also comes in a Xl frame & tubeless tyres .
Any advice would be welcome or any new road ebike I might of missed..


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## Woolyhatcheck (8 Sep 2018)

Noticed the comments on suitable battery chargers - I think the polarity of the 3 pins on the giant plug is different to any generic chargers. I tried unsuccessfully to change the wiring on another charger but I'm sure it could be done


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (10 Sep 2018)

2019 model ordered


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## sight-pin (10 Sep 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> 2019 model ordered



Nice one. Don't forget the reports and pics


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## proton666 (10 Sep 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> 2019 model ordered



He He He. Knew it. Hope they get it right this time.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (10 Sep 2018)

Who know’s, but for the searching I did on the Orbea & Bianchi I was suprised how little the 2 nearest Dealers knew about the bikes.
So hence why I’ve stuck with my shop & gone for the Giant..


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## zoom2zoom (17 Sep 2018)

Here is my commuter- 34miles round trip and the battery can last me 170 miles on a single charge, i only use Eco mode

I replaced stock wheels to carbon wheelset and save me 1.5 lbs and rolls much faster


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## proton666 (18 Sep 2018)

zoom2zoom said:


> I replaced stock wheels to carbon wheelset and save me 1.5 lbs and rolls much faster



Been thinking about doing this myself for a while now. Who's wheel set did you get?

Love that classic Brooks saddle too.


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## jowwy (18 Sep 2018)

zoom2zoom said:


> Here is my commuter- 34miles round trip and the battery can last me 170 miles on a single charge, i only use Eco mode
> 
> I replaced stock wheels to carbon wheelset and save me 1.5 lbs and rolls much faster


What tyres and size are those???


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (6 Oct 2018)

The 2019 bike in in the shops but I’ve got to wait another 3-4 weeks for the XL frame to come in.
I was reading this from the tredz website on the evo screen information?.
Ridecontrol Evo

For 2019, the RideControl EVO is updated with new and exciting functionalities to enhance the E-bike riding experience. It now has navigation features, so you can ride wherever you want, including new routes, without getting lost. It also offers new heartrate functionality, so you can get immediate feedback while working out.

All Giant E-bikes in 2019 can be set to automatically adjust the pedal support to reach/keep your desired heartrate. The RideControl EVO allows you to monitor this precisely. The RideControl EVO is connected and lets you upgrade through a wireless connection. Also, incoming messages, phone calls and emails can be seen through a notification on the RideControl EVO while riding. The clock makes sure you’ll always arrive on time on your destination.

NAVIGATION: The RideControl EVO stands for exploration and riding further then you ever have before with new navigation possibilities.

FITNESS POSSIBILITIES: Get direct feedback to help you target your fitness goals and conditioning, reaching precise levels of effort

UPDATEABLE: Can be updated wirelessly so you are always up to date with the latest software.


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## OldRoadie (6 Oct 2018)

I just rode the new 2019 E1 pro at my local shop! Oh, it's really nice and rides way smoother over rough pavement than my current Giant E1 from last year. I've had my bike for 7 months and 2300 miles and my biggest grip is the stiff rough ride over anything but smooth new asphalt blacktop. Even with just 60 psi in the tires it still kills my hands. This new 2019 bike with a carbon fork and different seatpost rides much smoother and handles quicker. On the original E1, I have to "steer" with the bars more than just shift weight like you do with a regular carbon race bike to initiate turns. This new bike is more like a race bike to ride in terms of turning and handling. The ultegra disc brakes do seem a little better stopping for the effort and the shifting is a little crisper with the Ultegra drive train. The chain on the new bike is the e specific KMC. The total weight was 3-4 lbs lighter just by lifting it into the back of my wagon I could tell, much lighter.
If I had the money, $4600.00 USD I'd get one! (with tax about $5000) The EVO power setting is a little more boost (assisted to 27 mph in the USA) then my current EVO with just 3 settings vs. 5 settings on the new EVO.
I haven't heard of or was told about any setting that will keep the boost level to maintain a specific heart rate.
I'm not sorry I didn't wait to buy the 2019, but I do wish I had one now! I didn't care for the all blacked out theme paint job though. The new wheels are tubeless ready, though do not come shipped that way (tubes). The chosen tires, Maxxis re-fuse 32mm tubeless do ride smooth. It all comes down to money, seeing I just spent $3900 USD on my bike, and to get a new one for $4600 isn't the best thing to do.


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## OldRoadie (6 Oct 2018)

Giant even has the "Giant" lettering blacked out!
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-road-eplus-pro


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (6 Oct 2018)

OldRoadie said:


> Giant even has the "Giant" lettering blacked out!
> https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/bikes-road-eplus-pro


I prefer the US blacked out bike to our black & blue .
Have you tried the gel pads on your bars to help with the rough roads, glad next years bike is lighter.
http://bicyclechain.co.uk/product/13490/microtex-technogel-pads-offer-features/


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## OldRoadie (7 Oct 2018)

To smooth out the ride I replaced the seat post with this Cane Creek Thudbuster suspension seatpost.
https://www.canecreek.com/product/thudbuster-st/
Using the softest rubber bumper (you get 3 soft, med , hard) it did take out a lot of the rough road feel. To further smooth out the road I replaced the Giant stock 110mm stem with this RedShift Shockstop suspension stem. It uses little rubber inserts inside the stem, so not clunky like older suspension stems with springs inside.
https://redshiftsports.com/shockstop-suspension-stem
This really smoothed things out! With both the stem and seatpost suspended, the ride now is a little smoother than the new 2019 model with it's carbon fork, as I tested both over the same stretch of tar graveled road. I suppose some added weight, but when you're talking about at 43 lb. bike to start, who cares?
So, at this point I'm less inclined to buy the 2019 model for $4600 USD, well, unless someone wanted to buy my 2018 model for $3500!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (4 Nov 2018)

The new bike is due in this week, whether it will come in or not I’ve certainly missed my bike since August.
It’s not as much fun riding my defy especially up steep hills.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (15 Nov 2018)

Well bike isn’t due in until next week now but giant are covering all by warranty so nothing for me to pay.
Not bad as I only payed £2200 for the first bike.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Nov 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> Well bike isn’t due in until next week now but giant are covering all by warranty so nothing for me to pay.
> Not bad as I only payed £2200 for the first bike.


It’s in the shop


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## Ananda (22 Nov 2018)

OldRoadie said:


> To smooth out the ride I replaced the seat post with this Cane Creek Thudbuster suspension seatpost.
> https://www.canecreek.com/product/thudbuster-st/
> Using the softest rubber bumper (you get 3 soft, med , hard) it did take out a lot of the rough road feel. To further smooth out the road I replaced the Giant stock 110mm stem with this RedShift Shockstop suspension stem. It uses little rubber inserts inside the stem, so not clunky like older suspension stems with springs inside.
> https://redshiftsports.com/shockstop-suspension-stem
> ...



Very nice bike, congratulations!
Regarding smoothing out the road, my personal experience is that larger tyres inflated at a lower pressure do the trick tremendously well, without any adverse effects in rolling resistance.
If your bike can take something like 36 to 40 tyres, you might try that too!


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Nov 2018)

Well it’s here, first thing I noticed was the gap at the top of battery to frame is still there as photo’s of 2019 bike show it all filled in.
The shop say it’s down to frame size, mine is xl?.
Wheels are tubeless ready but not yet so I’m going to wait until my first service & decide to have the milky stuff put in, What’s your thoughts on tubeless as I have never had it??..
Cables are still quite untidy but will play with them later, although the shop had to shorten the rear brake cable because it was ridiculous long.
So will have the first wet ride out tomorrow..


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## proton666 (23 Nov 2018)

Looks nice. Hope it stay together this time.

Never liked tubeless much. I have had them on a couple of road bikes and a cyclocross bike. I just found road patching them is a bit hit or miss because, just like on a tubed tire, it can be very difficult to find the puncture point. This is not an issue with tubes if you simply bring a extra tube along but it's very frustrating with tubeless (and don't even get me started with sealants. Never worked for me and they are an unholy mess to deal with. Particularly with tubeless). I found inflating tubeless to be even more problematic. If the mounting was off just by a bit you just burn through a C02 cartridge and get nothing but dry ice and a flat.

I did like them on the cyclocross bike (as an affordable option to tubulars) but I only rode them in competition because if you flat then it's game over anyway.

To be fair, its been 2 or 3 years since I last experimented with tubeless and things have probably improved so... Grain of salt time.

In the end I just find it faster and easier to simply bring a couple of extra tubes and a patch kit back-up.

Hope your inaugural ride went well.


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## sight-pin (23 Nov 2018)

Nice one. How does it feel compared to the old version?



Giantbadge said:


> Well it’s here, first thing I noticed was the gap at the top of battery to frame is still there as photo’s of 2019 bike show it all filled in.
> The shop say it’s down to frame size, mine is xl?



I should think it's down to the head tube length, It varies between, 3.7 to 7.1 inches according to the sizing shown here. https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/road-eplus-1-pro


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (24 Nov 2018)

sight-pin said:


> Nice one. How does it feel compared to the old version?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Nov 2018)

Well I found out tonight the reason I don’t have a usb lead, it now works through Bluetooth with the app below I can control the whole bike through updates,faults fitness etc,etc.
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/global/ridecontrol-app


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## proton666 (1 Dec 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> Well I found out tonight the reason I don’t have a usb lead, it now works through Bluetooth with the app below I can control the whole bike through updates,faults fitness etc,etc.
> https://www.giant-bicycles.com/global/ridecontrol-app



Oh man, this looks cool. I'm a sucker for a good app. The ability to tune the assist sounds great. I never use "power" mode and being able to step that down would make it actual useful. Probably less water infiltration without the USB as well.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (2 Dec 2018)

It still has the usb slot but no cable, went out in the rain again today to try out the routes app, at the moment it’s on kmh but sure this will be updated soon.
Bit disappointed in my ave speed but had to go through lots of path gates,not done a regular ride for a while


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## proton666 (3 Dec 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> View attachment 441234
> View attachment 441235
> View attachment 441236
> View attachment 441238
> ...



I completely missed that it has a "power meter" (watts). Now I'm real jealous! Thanks for the updates.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (11 Dec 2018)

*Well you won’t believe it

After 75 miles the bike is gone back, took it out Sunday & after about 15 minutes the steering went really rigid & stiff like a puncture & letting go of the bars would send the bike out into the road.
Lifting the bike up & turning the bars side to side it is really tight on the left side but I carried on for a 25 mile ride on the steady side.
Took it back to the shop & the problem seems to be is the top head bearing won’t seat in the frame properly they have tried everything but no joy.
They said it needs to be rimmed out as there is like a bur where the bearing sits & they don’t have tools to do that.
They spoke to giant yesterday & told them effectively this is my 5th bike & needs sorting straight away, so another bike should be sent down tomorrow.
How can anyone be so unlucky, my £500 defy hasn’t missed a beat in 3 years .
Apart from this it was quite nice being back in the saddle, even with the ☔️ 
*


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## proton666 (13 Dec 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> *Well you won’t believe it
> 
> After 75 miles the bike is gone back,*



Man… Sounds like the e-bike gods have it in for you. But six is a lucky number so, fingers crossed.

You may want to take another look at the Bianchi.

My local “boutique” bike shop got one in (the Aria, Impulso not here yet) and they let me take it for a 30 mile spin the other day and there’s a lot to like. It’s soooo much lighter and responsive than the Giant. Full carbon frame feels much nicer on this old body too. Looks just like a non e-bike. And of course, it has their signature color, “Celeste” or “gas chamber green” as it’s know over here.

And they will configure it as you like. I have always been a campy guy and with low end Chorus it will only set me back $7.6K (I think that's about 4.8K in England money) (*gulp*).

The assist was kinda whack though as it’s a hub drive and not a mid drive. Not as smooth or powerful as the giant (just not use to it I guess). More troubling is it’s range (barely got 30 miles out of it) and the unknown quality of the motor.

Got to admit, it’s tempting and there is a bank just around the corner to rob too… lol. But I think I will wait till my road-e dies first.


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## sight-pin (14 Dec 2018)

Giantbadge said:


> *Well you won’t believe it
> 
> After 75 miles the bike is gone back, took it out Sunday & after about 15 minutes the steering went really rigid & stiff like a puncture & letting go of the bars would send the bike out into the road.
> Lifting the bike up & turning the bars side to side it is really tight on the left side but I carried on for a 25 mile ride on the steady side.
> ...



Wow! Any news yet?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (14 Dec 2018)

sight-pin said:


> Wow! Any news yet?


New bike is in but having serious doubts about having it.That bike didn’t even do 100miles & it’s scrap, I’m thinking of changing to the cube agree c62 on a 105 group set.
There checking availability today.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (16 Dec 2018)

Took the cube out for a try today they only had the sl model at £4500 but very impressed with the 13.5kg weight, the bike I the pic is the cheapest model at 14.9kg at £3500 which I would go for, the bike felt so much more easier to ride than the road e.
Took it up one of our steep hills here & you notice the power difference as the cube is 60nm torque but by dropping to the lower chainring it sailed up very nicely.
The motor is really quiet & once over 15.5mph there in no resistance at all compared to the giant.
As much as I like the new toys on the giant I feel after the last bike only lasted 2 weeks & how long before something happens again, they don’t seem to have the bike completely right.
Just waiting now for the shop to come back with the price to change now as I only paid £2200 for the first bike & if it’s too much I will have to put up with another new road e.


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## proton666 (16 Dec 2018)

Looks nice. The road version not in the USA yet. What kinda range will it give? My shop put me on Pinarello's interpretation of an e-bike yesterday (apparently, they know a sucker when they see one). Even better than the Bianchi and just $8.2K with low end Campy! These lighter bikes sure feel like we are riding them rather than the other way around. Keep us posted on your adventure.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Dec 2018)

The price to change to the cube was more than I wanted to pay,so I collected another brand new road e tonight.
We were having bets in the shop on how long this one will last.


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## proton666 (18 Dec 2018)

I'll put 10 on 290 miles (or how about a beer).


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (18 Dec 2018)

I don’t think it will get to 200 going by track record. 
So by the end of December


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (13 Jan 2019)

Had the stinky cold over Xmas so have only got 100 miles on the bike.
Nothing broke yet which makes a change, I went for the size xl which is giving me knumb fingers so I’ve ordered a shorter stem & narrower bars .
I find the new pro motor drags you back more when over 16,5 mph than the sport motot did, but might be just bedding in.
Utegra leavers are more precise than the old Shimano ones.
I’ve had an update on the evo app so now I can have mph instead of kph.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (19 Jan 2019)

Just signed up for a 40mile uk cycle event over the wye valley.
https://www.ukcyclingevents.co.uk/events/wye-tour-sportive/
Decided to do it on the defy & not the e bike as a friend is joining me, might be a bad idea as elevation gain of 3000ft but least I can train on both.
When registering you have the option of using the ebike as long as its not unrestricted


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## mustang1 (20 Jan 2019)

What's this cheating accusations with e-bikes? Could just as easily say I was using a heavy single speed Dutch bike and I cant compete with those who have lightweight multi-geared racing bikes. What if another guy lives in the mountains and has naturally high red blood cells? I'll have to get an e-bike to balance things out a bit, no?

I'm all for e-bikes. I don't have one but surely one could get a similar workout on an e-bike, but just have to ride a longer distance. Same goes for running: I get more of a workout running for 20 mins than riding a bike for an hour! If I had an e-bike, I might have to ride for 2 hours (or whatever). And if you really want a work out, switch off the motor and climb the 20+kg bike up a hill. 

Edit: having said that, having a light weight bike designed for going fast certainly makes me _want_ to ride harder, whereas that is not the case with most other bike types.

Edit 2: typos


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## mustang1 (31 Jan 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> View attachment 442753
> Took the cube out for a try today they only had the sl model at £4500 but very impressed with the 13.5kg weight, the bike I the pic is the cheapest model at 14.9kg at £3500 which I would go for, the bike felt so much more easier to ride than the road e.
> *Took it up one of our steep hills here & you notice the power difference as the cube is 60nm torque but by dropping to the lower chainring it sailed up very nicely.
> The motor is really quiet & once over 15.5mph there in no resistance at all compared to the giant.*
> ...



Hi, couple of questions please:
1. When you say no resistance over 15.5mph, can you describe that some more? Does the Giant have a motor that resists pedal turns if the motor is not being used?
2. Is the Cube lighter because the battery has less capacity and the motor has less torque?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (31 Jan 2019)

With the giant 2017 model it felt like being pulled back with a rubber band but when you turned the motor off it was fine, but now with the 2019 model it still holds back even turned off.
Maybe when more miles are put on it might clear,
The cube agree sl has the Fazua drive unit which feel very different to the giant but once over the 15.5mph there is no resistance which is great, it feels like there is no transition between the motor being in or out of drive.
The cube weighs 13.8kg where the giant is touching 20kg & 60nm torque v giants 80nm is very noticeable on a good gradient.
On the cube I had to change down to the lower chain ring where as the giant would fly up in the outer ring & as to the battery the giant one is big & heavy hense twice the wh.
I stayed with the giant mainly because of my weekend trips out are mostly the hills in Somerset where the giant motor does it with ease, I think the cube would struggle the assistance is that noticeable.


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## proton666 (1 Feb 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> 60nm torque v giants 80nm is very noticeable on a good gradient.



This is even more true for the Bianchi and Pinarello I tested. They have 40nm max torque making them feel very sluggish on the climbs in comparison to the Giant. But at only 12Kg they handle and feel much more like non e-bikes which for me translated into easier rolling on the flats (unlike the Giant which turns into a bit of a ball and chain when the motor cuts out on the flats). So it's a tough call. Best to try them all on a good hill, a winding decent and a long flat.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Mar 2019)

Dry day for a change.


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## jowwy (17 Mar 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> View attachment 457853
> View attachment 457854
> Dry day for a change.


How much battery did you have left???


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Mar 2019)

I had 46% left, this 2019 pro motor uses more battery than my earlier 2017 bike as I could get best part 100 miles a charge on it.


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## proton666 (17 Mar 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> I had 46% left, this 2019 pro motor uses more battery than my earlier 2017 bike as I could get best part 100 miles a charge on it.



Well the big news is that it's still in one piece! So where do I sent that 10 pounds to


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Mar 2019)

You could send it to giant, so they can fix the control screen misting up.
It only needs a drop of water


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (24 Mar 2019)

Sunshine


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Mar 2019)

Took the Bike back in Sunday to shop with creeking & knocking noises.
The head stock, crank & rear end have different tones.
It is like riding with a 3 peice band on board, so much for a quiet ride.
Dealer is having talks with giant so not sure yet what the cause.


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## proton666 (30 Mar 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> Took the Bike back in Sunday to shop with creeking & knocking noises.


Sorry to put the jinx on you. From the looks of it you two were having some good rides. With any luck all she needs is a shot of grease here and there and torquing down a few bolts.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (2 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> Took the Bike back in Sunday to shop with creeking & knocking noises.
> The head stock, crank & rear end have different tones.
> It is like riding with a 3 peice band on board, so much for a quiet ride.
> Dealer is having talks with giant so not sure yet what the cause.


Got the bike back today,
1- The headstock had come loose so greased up & torqued up
2- The crank bolts had come loose 
3- Rear wheel bearing loose
4- Evo screen replaced under warranty (misting up)
5- A chain link snapped replaced under warranty 
Maybe due to not having first service done earlier?.
Hopefully all will be good again


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Apr 2019)

Well since getting my bike back I took it for a short 20 mile run & it creaked & knocked the whole time.
It’s been back at the shop this week & they think there is a problem with the motor, it’s double engaging on take off & knocking while riding.
We are both in agreement that I’m not having this bike repaired or replaced as too much has gone on the last 2 years.
There speaking to giant now to refund my money & return the bike.
We have talked of me trying a full carbon lightweight bike & see how I like it but really I just like to go out & enjoy my ride up steep hills around the area.
So hopefully a cube hybrid will be on my list


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## Foghat (19 Apr 2019)

What a diabolical run of bad luck, @Giantbadge - how many failed bikes was that?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (20 Apr 2019)

This was the 5th, I have missed the last 2 summers so enough is enough.



Foghat said:


> What a diabolical run of bad luck, @Giantbadge - how many failed bikes was that?


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## jowwy (20 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> This was the 5th, I have missed the last 2 summers so enough is enough.


Are you getting a different ebike or dropping them altogether.....the giant fastroad e+ does look good or there’s the Cannondale neo


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (20 Apr 2019)

jowwy said:


> Are you getting a different ebike or dropping them altogether.....the giant fastroad e+ does look good or there’s the Cannondale neo


I’m going to try the cube c62 hybrid, with a Fazua motor. Just awaiting refund on the giant.


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## jowwy (20 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> I’m going to try the cube c62 hybrid, with a Fazua motor. Just awaiting refund on the giant.


That will be seriously under powered compared to the giant..


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## Pale Rider (21 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> This was the 5th, I have missed the last 2 summers so enough is enough.



As you know, the Giant uses a re-branded Yamaha crank drive.

They've proved reliable, so for one owner to get five wrong uns is beyond unlucky.

The nearest equivalent would be a Cannondale Neo which uses the Bosch Active Line Plus motor.

It's 'zero resistance' and slightly less powerful than the Bosch Performance motor on my bike, all of which adds up to improved (ie: less) power consumption.

A Fazua motored bike might suit, although however you cut it, you have a smaller capacity battery which must impact adversely on range.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (21 Apr 2019)

Pale Rider said:


> As you know, the Giant uses a re-branded Yamaha crank drive.
> 
> They've proved reliable, so for one owner to get five wrong uns is beyond unlucky.
> 
> ...


The 4 previous bikes all had broken forks & headstock problems this is the first motor problem.
This latest bike has headstock & motor issues which I didn’t notice only the shop.
I’ve ridden the cube and it’s not bad up the hills with 63nm torque it does shift.
With the bike being 6kg lighter & no resistance over 15mph I feel pulled towards it.
Also if needed I can remove battery & motor & ride .
I’ve read about the ribble & orbea slightly put off by noisy motor & app issues.


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## Pale Rider (21 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> The 4 previous bikes all had broken forks & headstock problems this is the first motor problem.
> This latest bike has headstock & motor issues which I didn’t notice only the shop.
> I’ve ridden the cube and it’s not bad up the hills with 63nm torque it does shift.
> With the bike being 6kg lighter & no resistance over 15mph I feel pulled towards it.
> ...



Can't say fairer that - you've ridden the bikes so you know what's what.

Aren't there a couple of other makes that use the Fazua motor?

Cubes tend to be good value, so that probably is the brand to go for to get a bike with that motor.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (21 Apr 2019)

Yes there are a few manufacturers out there but at a lot higher price with the same group sets.
Trek has just brought out a high spec Bosch mid drive at £5k.
There is a big choice out there but after all the hassle I just want something that’s going to be reliable & for me Giant isn't.


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## Foghat (22 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> The 4 previous bikes all had broken forks & headstock problems this is the first motor problem.
> 
> This latest bike has headstock & motor issues



Did the shop provide any sensible explanation for all these failures pertaining to the forks/headsets? E.g. exactly which parts broke....and were they down to design problems, or manufacturing faults? And had they seen it on others' bikes, not just yours?

I took my fork out recently for an inspection and for a clean/re-grease of the headset bearings, and it all looked fairly simple in there without the odd features I seem to recall you mentioning in the past. Still confounded by all your bikes' problems.....


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## proton666 (22 Apr 2019)

Maybe an informal poll is needed here.

@Giantbadger if I recall correctly you have the XL version of this bike.

Perhaps other rides in the community can answer these questions:
- Anyone else riding the XL?
- What size do you ride?
- What is your weight?
- How would you describe your riding style
- How many miles do you have on your bike
- How often have you had to service your bike
- What problems / issues have you experienced (no matter how minor they may be)

- I ride the M.
- I weigh a scant 135 Lb. (my riding nick name that stuck is "bird legs")
- I'm an ex-competitive rider so I ride reasonably hard but I'm more of a climber and definitely not a roller / sprinter so I can't mash it like the big boys do.
- I have had a couple of random reset of the odometer so I do not know my exact milage on the bike but it's probably around 2500 miles.
- I service the bike every 200 miles or so (I service my own bikes).

I have my share of clicks, creaks and rattles (mine come and go with servicing) but they are all minor torquing / greasing issues but non of them are on the magnitude / frequency that Giantbadger has experienced (not yet anyway). I will say that compared to my non ebikes these issues seem much more frequent with the Giant. But my non ebikes are all carbon and I know from past experience that aluminum frames can be creak magnets.

Maybe it's as simple as the frame's size to rider's wright ratio being the issue (perhaps, at the XL scale the bike is pretty much at the limits of it's intended performance envelope so it's far easier for a fit rider to exceed those limits).


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Apr 2019)

Foghat said:


> Did the shop provide any sensible explanation for all these failures pertaining to the forks/headsets? E.g. exactly which parts broke....and were they down to design problems, or manufacturing faults? And had they seen it on others' bikes, not just yours?
> 
> I took my fork out recently for an inspection and for a clean/re-grease of the headset bearings, and it all looked fairly simple in there without the odd features I seem to recall you mentioning in the past. Still confounded by all your bikes' problems.....


The first 2 forks broke at the top tube where they are resin glued not welded.
The 3rd set was a new redesigned fork with a longer tube but that only lasted a short time 
A 3 month wait for the 2019 bike and 50 miles in, the top head bearing wouldn’t seat into frame due to manufacturing fault in headstock 
Next & last 5th bike, 250 miles in, creaking dry & knocking noise from headstock & motor.
I would say in my experience that the frame & fork design aren’t strong enough for the weight of an e-bike.
I’ve not had a true full answer on how many bikes have suffered the same problems.
I can’t see this bike lasting another 100 miles, 
So for a £3.5k bike it’s not acceptable,I love the motor & battery range & it’s going to be hard not having it.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (22 Apr 2019)

proton666 said:


> Maybe an informal poll is needed here.
> 
> @Giantbadger if I recall correctly you have the XL version of this bike.
> 
> ...


Thanks Proton666.
My first 3 bikes were size large, in 2019 they brought out the XL 2 of them.
I weigh 95kg 6ft2” I ride quite hard but only for pleasure


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## jowwy (22 Apr 2019)

Giantbadge said:


> The first 2 forks broke at the top tube where they are resin glued not welded.
> The 3rd set was a new redesigned fork with a longer tube but that only lasted a short time
> A 3 month wait for the 2019 bike and 50 miles in, the top head bearing wouldn’t seat into frame due to manufacturing fault in headstock
> Next & last 5th bike, 250 miles in, creaking dry & knocking noise from headstock & motor.
> ...


The weight of an ebike pursey shouldn’t be an issue as the bike would have an overall weight allowance.......I.e 120kgs bike and rider for example

Myself I went the emtb route and put slick tyres and rack on the commuter E and left the weekender as standard and just added a rack.....I myself weigh 118kgs and have had zero issues with either bike....they even got 28 spokes on the wheels


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (24 Apr 2019)

I have this bad boy coming this weekend to try out.
They don’t really want me to have the cube due to the fact there not a authorised cube dealer & if there was any problems with the Fazua motor, there is no uk repairs base.


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## Neo2 (25 Apr 2019)

That's a really nice bike Giantbadge. I road tested the Cube with the Fazua motor a few months back. It was great on the flat or smallish hills but I did not find it much help on very steep (greater than 20% gradients). I ended up buying a Cannondale Synapse Neo 2 which I have been very impressed with. It has been fine on all the hills I have tried in my area.


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## Neo2 (25 Apr 2019)

What weight is the Trek? I imagine with the carbon frame its a far bit lighter than my Neo. I weighed my bike recently and it came out to 18.46 kg.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (25 Apr 2019)

Neo2 said:


> What weight is the Trek? I imagine with the carbon frame its a far bit lighter than my Neo. I weighed my bike recently and it came out to 18.46 kg.


It comes in at 17kg - 38 pounds


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (26 Apr 2019)

Had a quick ride tonight down the seafront


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## proton666 (27 Apr 2019)

Man, love the look of that bike. How did the carbon frame feel?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (27 Apr 2019)

proton666 said:


> Man, love the look of that bike. How did the carbon frame feel?


It felt really strong & composed, it has the isospeed which takes out most of the bumps making it a smooth ride.
I would go tubeless & be even better, my first ride on a Bosch motor & a SCRAM groupset quite pleased,
I was hoping to get a good ride out today but storm Hanna is kicking off.


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## proton666 (28 Apr 2019)

Wish I could send you a bottle or two of California sunshine. Put that bike to the test. Really interested in a full review.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Apr 2019)

Left at 7am this morning with sunshine, straight away the trek felt good to ride & once over 16mph very little or no resistance from the motor.
The bike was quite happy sailing along at 20mph on the flat, I decided to head up cheddar gorge for a test on the Bosch performance line speed motor & a 11 speed scram groupset, it felt quite strong right up to the last left hand bend which is the steepest & power did drop a little but I did still have a 2 lower gears to go.
The giant with 20NM more torque makes it up easier but it was fine, the scram is very precise with the 2 click system & all operated on just the right shifter.
The domane+ comes with Schwalbe G-One Speed, aramid bead, TL Easy, 700c35c tyres which are quite noisy but might be better tubeless, when riding through the rough surface on country lanes it feels very planted & a pleasure to ride.
My ride was 34 miles with 2000ft elavation using 2 of 5 bars of battery life so around 40 miles left in tour mode, I didn’t use turbo .
It has a comfy seat & bars, the display is very easy to read even in sunshine & the cockpit is virtually cable free so looks great.
The one thing I didn’t like about the giant was all the untidy cables, so I’m very pleased with it & just waiting to here from the shop what £££ I need to make the change.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (4 May 2019)

I purchased the trek today, so hopefully I can have some trouble free miles ahead.
The shop gave me great discount so at £2900 it was a no brainer, it pays to shop local.


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## sight-pin (5 May 2019)

Nice looking bike, Have to change your avatar pic now.


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## proton666 (5 May 2019)

Yeah, congrats on the new ride. Will have to change your online user name as well.

TrekTarantula, TyrannosaurusTreks, TrekTreks?


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (6 May 2019)

proton666 said:


> Yeah, congrats on the new ride. Will have to change your online user name as well.
> 
> TrekTarantula, TyrannosaurusTreks, TrekTreks?


I like the TyrannosaurusTreks, don’t think I can change username though..


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 May 2019)

150 trouble free miles in what a joy to ride.
Booked in for first (free) service today & having tyres made tubeless.


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## kellis (18 May 2019)

great to hear you have had some good luck with this bike its about time.Keeping my fingers crossed for you


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## proton666 (19 May 2019)

If you don't mind, could you tell me the total price of the Trek your shop gave you? I want to shame my shop. They quoted me $6,999. ( About 4412. in British money).


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (19 May 2019)

Retail over here is £5250, I added £700 to the money I paid for the giant £2200 so £2900 I got the trek for.
I think the shop might of helped a bit?.
Are you thinking of getting one Proton?.
And thanks for thinking of my new username


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## proton666 (19 May 2019)

Glad you like the name!

I would love to get one of these.

As you know, I'm not a fan of the general look of the Giant. On the other hand, nothing out there can beat the performance to range ratio of the Giant. Also, can't justify, yet, dumping the giant because selling it would not bring in much so kinda want to ride it into the ground.

Having said all that, I would buy it in a blink if I could get it at the price you payed . My shop is still pushing the Bianchi and the Pinarello I tried earlier this year but both of those cost $7.8K+!

They say they will have a demo model in next week and I can take it for a spin. Hopefully I can say something like "well if they can deal with Brexit and offer that price on a US bike surely you can do better..." lol . Shaming tips welcome.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (20 May 2019)

Take it out next week & see what you think of it, I take it the bike will do 25mph in us compared to our 15.5


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## proton666 (22 Jul 2019)

TyrannosaurusTreks said:


> Take it out next week & see what you think of it, I take it the bike will do 25mph in us compared to our 15.5



Finally got to ride the Trek. Got to say, it didn’t disappoint. The smooth ride has to be the highlight for me. Even better than my old reliable Cervelo R3. Next, the clean look is just what I like. Not like the spaghetti monster Giant.

I took it out on my favorite 35 mile loop (about 2700’ of climbing).

It performed well but it was clear that battery anxiety was going to be an issue. Some of my favorite rides are 60 to 70 miles with 5700+’ of climbing and while you need some mindfulness with Giant I fear that with the Trek all I would be thinking about is the battery. A spare battery would alleviate that but would bump up the already hefty price so ouch!

But the thing that I really missed was the power of the Giant. When you start a climb on the Giant, and you drop it down a gear, you get that kick in the pants like a coach pushing you hard, yelling at you to “go, go, go…” And you really want that feeling again and so you push for it.

With the Trek it’s more like someone pats you on the back and says “well done mate…” And I kinda just want to sit back and relax. Arguably not a bad thing. It’s just the lingering competitive rider in me that likes that extra motivational push the Giant gives.

I then got laughed out the door trying to negotiate a lower price so I hopped on the Giant and I guess I will stay on it until either it or me brakes at which point I will reevaluated all the offerings again.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (28 Jul 2019)

Proton666.
Glad you managed to get out on one, on my first ride up one of our steeper hills I noticed the 20nm of torque missing from the giant.
It took me about a month to learn to ride the trek in a different way to what I had with the giant, but now I don’t seem to have problems with the higher climbs.
Battery life seems to be around 70-80 miles but I ride it mostly over the 16.9 cut off, I did a 42mile ride last weekend with a 2400ft elevation & used 2 bars of battery.
It is a pleasure to ride & the other day I rode off for about 2 miles & forgot to even switch it on, it goes that well.
I’m still not getting my gear changes perfect, the sram is very accurate but a bit noisy.
I think the price will drop at sometime, maybe they have a 2020 model in the mist.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (17 Aug 2019)

proton666 said:


> Finally got to ride the Trek. Got to say, it didn’t disappoint. The smooth ride has to be the highlight for me. Even better than my old reliable Cervelo R3. Next, the clean look is just what I like. Not like the spaghetti monster Giant.
> 
> I took it out on my favorite 35 mile loop (about 2700’ of climbing).
> 
> ...


 £1000 off over here now


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## proton666 (20 Aug 2019)

TyrannosaurusTreks said:


> £1000 off over here now



Damn it!
Thanks for the heads up...

Edit: Holding firm here at about $6800 (5587 British money). Got a bunch of BS reasons none of which seem to have that much bearing on the cost.


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## TyrannosaurusTreks (23 Aug 2019)

There is talk the 2020 model has the fazua motor ?


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