# Tyre choice for loose over hardpack



## lulubel (15 Aug 2012)

The first thing I want to do to improve my MTB is get some decent tyres on it. The tyres currently on it are 1.95 wide and rated 35 - 65psi. I can't remember the brand, but I've never heard of them.

The options for MTB tyres are a bit overwhelming, so I'm looking for recommendations. Most of my riding is on hardpack, covered with loose, gritty earth or scree. There are also sections covered with loose stones (golf to tennis ball sized) that send the wheels sideways, usually in opposite directions, and totally destroy grip and momentum on climbs. Occasional bedded-in rocks and roots. I never expect to encounter mud, grass or wet rock.

Aside from tyres that are good on loose-covered hardpack, I also need to be able to run them as soft as possible to counter the tennis ball stones, and I'd like as much puncture protection as I can get without sacrificing grip. Unless I can find somewhere that will ship rigid tyres free to Spain, I need them to be folding.

I've never bought MTB tyres before, but I usually spend £25 - £30 each on road tyres.


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## VamP (15 Aug 2012)

You'll probably get lots of deeply held personal opinions, so I might as well chip in with mine. Nobby Nic front, Rocket Ron rear, both by Schwalbe obviously. Best all round combo bar none 

edit: now have actually read your question  I have to say that by all-round I do mean including mud, grass and wet rocks. It's still a good combo for loose over hardpack tho.


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## GrumpyGregry (15 Aug 2012)

You'll get gazillions of recommendations

It's harder to buy lousy tyres than it is good ones these days

The price of mtb folders may make you weep (especially after you trash one)

VamP's recommendations of Nic and Ron seem to chime with a lot of folk around here. I also see lots of Kenda's Small Blocks 8

Me? I'd go for Continental Rubber Queen/Trail King* 2.2 black chili compound folder at £40 a hoop from Wiggle. They put a smile on my face and kept it there off-road in the Picos last summer.

That said I'm still running mud tyres at the moment. There's a lot of it about.

(*Trail King, I'm told, is what they call a Rubber Queen in the North American Market)


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## RecordAceFromNew (15 Aug 2012)

VamP's suggestion is consistent with Schwalbe's 3-Tyre-Race-System matrix for different ground conditions, which came out before Rocket Ron was available, with NN/RR/FF corresponding to Nobby Nic/Racing Ralph/Furious Fred:







After Ron came out, many (including me) replaced Ralph with Ron because Ron is grippier and lighter. Personally I would not touch the Fred - it is extremely light, but paper thin. If you are small/light and terrain is moderate, you could consider Ron front and back, that will save you a couple of hundred grams over Nobby Nic front Ron back.

The only proviso I would raise is these are racing tyres (Ron is around 400 odd grams depending on bead material and size, significantly lighter than most stock tyres on mtbs). If the terrain is rough and puncture repair inconvenient you might want to consider either going tubeless with sealant or use heavier tyres.


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## lulubel (16 Aug 2012)

RecordAceFromNew said:


> The only proviso I would raise is these are racing tyres (Ron is around 400 odd grams depending on bead material and size, significantly lighter than most stock tyres on mtbs). If the terrain is rough and puncture repair inconvenient you might want to consider either going tubeless with sealant or use heavier tyres.


 
I was all ready to get my credit card out until I read this. The terrain is rough. Puncture repair is inconvenient in the sense that I'd rather be riding the bike (with heavier tyres, if necessary) than fixing punctures. Also (as I understand it) sealant is just to get you to the end of the ride. You still need to replace the expensive, cut up tyre.

If I had to give an order of priority, it would be:


Confidence inspiring on tricky sections
Puncture protection
Weight
While I don't want to use tyres that weigh half a ton, I'm quite willing to accept a weight penalty to not have to repair punctures. My current road tyres have done over 5,000 miles without a puncture, so (while I appreciate that MTB tyres take a lot of abuse) having to repair one once a week or even once a month would be a bit disappointing.

Edit: I forgot to add that I've discovered Amazon stock what looks like the full range of Schwalbe tyres, so it wouldn't have to be folding if I could order from them.


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## VamP (16 Aug 2012)

I would add to this proviso, that while these tyres are light, the puncture protection seems pretty good. I have had them on my MTB for about 3 months without a puncture, and have raced half of last year's CX season on the 34mm version of RR as well as cca 1000 miles of off road training miles without a puncture. In the same period I had cca 5 punctures on the Ultremos on my road bike (admittedly a lot more miles).

I am generally not kind to tyres at 175 lbs and very aggressive riding style, so I would rate them pretty well.


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## RecordAceFromNew (16 Aug 2012)

lulubel said:


> I was all ready to get my credit card out until I read this. The terrain is rough. Puncture repair is inconvenient in the sense that I'd rather be riding the bike (with heavier tyres, if necessary) than fixing punctures. Also (as I understand it) sealant is just to get you to the end of the ride. You still need to replace the expensive, cut up tyre.
> 
> If I had to give an order of priority, it would be:
> 
> ...


 
Since you are kind of starting with a clean sheet you could consider running tubeless with Stans sealant. It will add no weight (because you will have no tube), and it will allow you to run lower pressure which offers better traction, more speed and comfort. It is more trouble to set up, but it offers the best solution arguably for all your 3 listed priorities. See this if you haven't come across it before.


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## GrumpyGregry (16 Aug 2012)

RecordAceFromNew said:


> Since you are kind of starting with a clean sheet you could consider running tubeless with Stans sealant. It will add no weight (because you will have no tube), and it will allow you to run lower pressure which offers better traction, more speed and comfort. It is more trouble to set up, but it offers the best solution arguably for all your 3 listed priorities. See this if you haven't come across it before.


^this


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## lulubel (16 Aug 2012)

OK, now you've got me really confused. Don't give a girl too many options!

I think I'll just go for the Nobby Nic/Rocket Ron option for now, and see how I get on. I'll know who to blame if I start getting punctures


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## RecordAceFromNew (17 Aug 2012)

lulubel said:


> OK, now you've got me really confused. Don't give a girl too many options!
> 
> I think I'll just go for the Nobby Nic/Rocket Ron option for now, and see how I get on. *I'll know who to blame if I start getting punctures*


 
You can always carry a couple of pins and a printout of VamP's avatar in your puncture kit...


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## VamP (18 Aug 2012)

RecordAceFromNew said:


> You can always carry a couple of pins and a printout of VamP's avatar in your puncture kit...


 



I'm not telling which one of the two I am


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## RecordAceFromNew (18 Aug 2012)

VamP said:


> I'm not telling which one of the two I am


 
Thats why I suggested she bring a couple of pins!


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## Cubist (21 Aug 2012)

look at bikediscount.de and check the schwalbe evo snakesin tubeless ready. They are folders with thicker sidewalls.


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