# New to the forum, and cycling. Need some guidance.



## Oddbot (18 Jan 2013)

As the title states I'm new to the forum, and usually my first post is a intro post on any other forum. but this time I thought I'd mix it up and jump right in. I've acquired a azuki from the 70's that I'd like to convert into a fixie. Unfortunately I have no idea what I'm doing. I can rebuild engines and tune cars all day long, but when it comes to this stuff I'm at a loss. So where do I start?

Here are some pictures of the bike I just brought home.












Any help that can be given is must appreciated.


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## tyred (18 Jan 2013)

First thing, put the bars on correctly!

The simplest and cheapest way is to remove the derailleurs, cables and shifters, remove the freewheel block from the wheel, grease the threads and put on a track sprocket in it's place. If there are spare threads, fit a bottom bracket lock ring to help pevent it unscrewing. Replace the spacer on the drive sideof the axle with the relevant number of 10mm washers and then swap some over to the other side so that the sprocket lines up with your inner chainring. It will then be necessary to "re-dish" the wheel so it is central in the frame. This is done by slackening the spokes on the left and tightening the spokes on the right, about a 1/2 turn at a time.

Assuming a 42 tooth inner chainring, I would go with a 17 tooth sprocket to start with and change later if you want to alter the gearing.

Also, toe clips or clipless pedals are desireable on a fixed wheel. 

You should find all the info you need here - http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed.html


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## Oddbot (18 Jan 2013)

You my friend are awesome. I'll probably start on the disassembly portion tonight since I'll be out at the shop. Then I need to order wheels, tires, ect.


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## Old Plodder (18 Jan 2013)

Like your hotrod!


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## tyred (18 Jan 2013)

How did I not see the hot rod.

Proof that my cycle obsession is overtaking my car obsession or just failing eyesight


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## Oddbot (18 Jan 2013)

Haha thanks but the hot rods belong to my father, I'm the black sheep who works on imports. Right now I own a pignose stock 240sx as my daily beater, then I have a first gen Mazda miata that going under the knife soon for some serious work again.


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## biggs682 (18 Jan 2013)

looks a nice starting point + 1 re ditch the gears and redish/space rear wheel to give you a good chain line a simple single speeder alas not fixed , enjoy it .

you lke jap engineering i see


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## Oddbot (18 Jan 2013)

Yes I'm quite fond of Japanese products. I'll post more pics tonight of the break down to give you guys a better idea of what I'm working with.


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## HovR (18 Jan 2013)

Welcome to the forum Oddbot! I'm not too experienced with fixed wheel, however Sheldon Brown's site linked above is an excellent resource, especially for older bikes!



tyred said:


> First thing, put the bars on correctly!


 
I tried my bars like that once after seeing a few bikes like it on the internet. First impressions were that it was a fairly comfortable sit-up-and-beg position. The brakes, however, are lethal! If you're not careful, once you brake your weight shifts forward on to the brake levers causing you to brake harder, shifting your weight further forward again until you're lying on the floor wondering what happened!


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## Oddbot (18 Jan 2013)

HovR said:


> Welcome to the forum Oddbot! I'm not too experienced with fixed wheel, however Sheldon Brown's site linked above is an excellent resource, especially for older bikes!
> 
> 
> 
> I tried my bars like that once after seeing a few bikes like it on the internet. First impressions were that it was a fairly comfortable sit-up-and-beg position. The brakes, however, are lethal! If you're not careful, once you brake your weight shifts forward on to the brake levers causing you to brake harder, shifting your weight further forward again until you're lying on the floor wondering what happened!


 
I'm probably going to move them down like you guys said. I like how it's a bit more streamline looking that way.


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## Oddbot (19 Jan 2013)

So I got the bike stripped down and ready for the conversion. Then i cleaned it up with some simple green that did wonders, and made the paint look like new. My friend has to convinced me to get a flip flop hub so I can switch between s/s and fixie as well. Also good news the wheels are true and straight so I'm going to reuse them, unless you guys know of these wheels being prone to failure. 

Here are some pics of my progress so far.


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## Oddbot (19 Jan 2013)

Just picked up a entry level dimension flip flop hub. This will make my life so much easier in the long run.


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## jim55 (19 Jan 2013)

that looks a very long drop for the front brake ,you gona re use the brakes that were on it?


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## Oddbot (19 Jan 2013)

I guess it's time to mention that and don't worry I have my flame suit on. I'm going brakeless for now unless I see that I can't handle it then ill put the original front brakes on which I kept.


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## HovR (19 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> I guess it's time to mention that and don't worry I have my flame suit on. I'm going brakeless for now unless I see that I can't handle it then ill put the original front brakes on which I kept.


 
I'd definitely recommend having the front brake on. Under normal usage you will be able to slow yourself down just fine with the fixed gear, but if someone pulls out on you you won't be able to stop anywhere as quick as you would with a front brake. If you don't like the look of having a single road brake lever on you could always put a regular flat-bar lever on the tops of the bars (just make sure it has the right clamp diameter).


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## Oddbot (20 Jan 2013)

Just talked to my girl and as soon as I'm done with the azuki super bee I'm going to start on a fixed gear for her. She's a physically active person in the first place so she shouldn't have any problem getting used to it.


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## Oddbot (20 Jan 2013)

Oh and I wanted to know more about the solid spoke wheels. I know they cost a arm and a leg but its still something I'm interested in. So what's a low priced wheel?


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## Old Plodder (20 Jan 2013)

Probably about ten times what you just paid for yours.

Edit: Seriously, you don't want to spend that kind of money on a whim.


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## Oddbot (20 Jan 2013)

Well if its going to cost 10x what I paid for my other wheel that's not bad considering the engineering that's involved with with it. You guys have to realize Im used to paying 2500 at least for a set of wheels for my car so in perspective 1k for a wheel is reasonable. Plus I'm a man who likes to spoil his toys lol.


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## jim55 (20 Jan 2013)

as for the wheel ,its purely a cosmetic issue ,but re the brakes thing ,can u skid stop? even if u can at best it scrubs off speed ,a front brake will b much better ,if u do go brakeless then ,imo ,ur a muppet and as u plough into a bus /car /whatever ul wish u had a front brake ,i ride with a couple of guys who ride brakeless and their bike skills are very high and even so they cant stop on a dime (as opposed tp a hand operated brake .
i had this debate with them and we tried it out ,yes knowing in advance they could kinda skid and stop and jump off in an emergency(but again they were expecting it )but in the real world its not the same ,please please please fit a front brake


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## Oddbot (20 Jan 2013)

Lol I understand everyone's concern and most likely I will see the light trough my own mistakes and fit one on. I give it a week at most before I give in . After I graduate from the parking lot it will most likely happen.


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## Oddbot (20 Jan 2013)

If I can hide the brake behind the front forks that would be super. Most likely I'll have to fab up a set because the original brakes were to bulky for my liking.


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## just jim (21 Jan 2013)

Fantastic pie dish on that Azuki.

Maybe take of the kickstand.


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

What's pie dish mean? lol lately I've been learning a lot of new terms. Also I did take the kick stand off its not bent enough to keep the bike up all it did was let it fall over lol completely useless.


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## Pennine-Paul (21 Jan 2013)

The pie dish is that huge circular creation on your old back wheel
mounted behind the cassette


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

I figured but just wanted to be sure. 

Well it would seem that I have found my next victim that will be my Girls fixie. It's another 1970s cruiser but that's all I'm saying for now. 

Tune in next time for another thrilling episode of oddbot's bike emporium. 

Man it's late here like 5am, well early.


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## 4F (21 Jan 2013)

Just to add, put the front brake back on Oddbot and in front of the forks....... Whilst you may think it "cool" without, you will seriously regret this fashion statement the first time some idiot pulls out in front of you without looking.


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## totallyfixed (21 Jan 2013)

As 4F says, cool and dead isn't that cool. I assume also it is illegal over there as here to ride without brakes, is that correct? I've been a fixed rider for a long time, I have 2 brakes on mine and mudguards most of the time, the very antithesis of cool, and I love it.
It's not all about the bike, it's more how you ride it.


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

Ive already decided to go with front brakes so no worries there. But I was told I would be able to mount the behind the forks due to the loads of room back there. Are their ill effects from mounting them this way? I.e. brakes binding or something of that sort?


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

And trust me guys I'm not close minded hard headed hipster who does this so I can go floss the streets looking for ladies. This a purely athletic venture for me. I recently quit smoking dope so I needed something productive to do with all this extra time I've found myself with.


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## HovR (21 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> I was told I would be able to mount the brake behind the forks due to the loads of room back there. Are their ill effects from mounting them this way? I.e. brakes binding or something of that sort?


 
It is possible to mount the brake caliper behind the fork, but it is very dependent on the type of brake caliper. Your current calipers are the centre pull type - Due to the style of cable routing you won't be able to place these behind the fork.

You'll have more of a chance of fitting the brake behind the fork crown using a side pull caliper. With these you have two options, either the older single pivot style, or the more modern dual pivot style.

You may have trouble finding a modern dual pivot caliper with long enough drop/reach (distance from the mounting point to the lowest point a brake pad can be mounted), although this style would be preferable as they are easier to centre and have more braking power. With this style you will also have to in most cases drill out either the front or back of the fork crown (depending on where you mount it) to 8mm to accept the more modern recessed nut fitting.

Single pivots on the other hand are slightly harder to centre, and have slightly less braking power, however are often available with longer drop/reach to suit older style frames. Single pivots aren't used much anymore, so you may have to buy in NOS condition or second hand.

The other thing worth considering is whether the brake caliper will restrict steering. As you can see in the image below the caliper has a taller section to accept the brake cable. With the caliper mounted on the back of the fork crown this may contact with the down tube, which could possibly damage your frame or brake caliper if the two collide!







Before deciding on a brake caliper you should measure your frames drop (from the mounting bolt hole to the rim) as shown in the 'Reach' section of the article I linked to above.

I'd suggest that brake cable routing would also be sub-optimum with the caliper mounted behind the fork, possibly adding a little more cable friction. To be honest, in your position I think I'd just buy a modern dual pivot caliper (if you can find one with long enough drop) and mount it to the front of the fork crown.


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

I'm a fabrication kind of person so I'll most likely copy a current design and machine it out of billet aluminum and adjust the specs for my specific application. For this build I'm probably going to make as much as I can In house like the crank set, exc.

I wonder If I can design a hydraulic brake system with stainless braided lines too. This would fix the binding cable problem. 

Also I was told that a rear brake would be redundant on a fixed gear. Is this true?


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## Pennine-Paul (21 Jan 2013)

It's down to personal preference,I never use a rear brake,Sheldon Brown
reckons it can even be dangerous to use one as you can lock up the rear wheel.
You certainly like a challenge,designing a hydraulic system to fix binding 
You've only got about 6 inches of outer on your front brake,that's never going to bind


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

I've been told by a good friend that MTB guys run hydraulic so a lot of design time has been knocked out for me. And yes I'm a man who like a a challenge as long as its within reason and my capability to succeed.


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## Oddbot (21 Jan 2013)

Well I'm positive I have a addiction problem. Picking up another mule this coming Thursday. It's a Columbia charger circa 1976.


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## Oddbot (22 Jan 2013)

Muwhahahahaa I just got my hustle on and sold a ton of car parts. Can you say I'm about to dump a lot of cash this week to finish the azuki super bee and get started on the columbia charger srt2.

Edit: also my front wheel is bigger than my rear is this bad or ill advised?


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## Old Plodder (22 Jan 2013)

Different sized wheels would be rather odd looking, but if the brakes work & you don't mind two different sizes, no worries.

Bikes (Sports/Road types) used to have 27" wheels but now have 700c. what that means is they are either 630mm or 622mm across the rim shoulder, & that is how the tyre & tubes are measured.

With regard to going hydraulic, Magura (I think that's how it's spelt) used to make a caliper type.

Of course, if you want to do some brazing, you could have disc brakes.


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## Oddbot (22 Jan 2013)

I was going with disk brakes in the front. I'm going to buy a 700 for the front too and extending down the brakes seems like a hassle. Plus this is just personal opinion but I think that disk brakes look cool. I was going to find a used set from a MTB and adapt them over to mine.

Also thanks for explaining why 700 is called that. I never did figure it out


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## HovR (22 Jan 2013)

A few things to consider with disc brakes, especially converting a MTB set to fit a road bike. 

Your current fork wasn't designed to have the braking forces down near the hub. Modern disc forks are built up to withstand the higher braking forces that disc brakes generate, where as an older fork isn't and may flex or even fail. 

If you're putting mountain bike levers on road handle bars the diameter of the clamp against the diameter of the bars may present issues, although as older bars tend to be narrower in diameter you could possibly get away with it. Short brake levers are preferable so that the lever action isn't restricted by the bends in the bars, especially for narrow bars. 

If you don't mind going with cable actuated disc brakes it would be worth looking at the Avid BB7 road discs, as these will be compatible with most modern road brake levers. If you're wanting to use hydraulic brakes you're pretty much stuck with adapting mountain bike levers to fit, or using a cable to hydraulic converter (such as the TRP Parabox) with road levers.

Hope some of that helps!


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## Oddbot (22 Jan 2013)

Ditching the idea about hydraulic brakes after the guys at my local bike shop talked some sense into me lol. 

Here is the latest haul of parts I just bought. 16t rear sprocket, lock ring, front brake, chain, chain breaker, and gorgeous yellow cork handle bar wrap.





Edit: the thing I really like the most about getting into bikes is that I have several local shops to go to. Unlike cars where the only local shop is a total shoot hole with a massively lazy owner who gets nothing done.


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## HovR (22 Jan 2013)

Sensible choice! You'll also want to consider a new brake cable if you don't have one already.

If you haven't wrapped bars before, one piece of advice which I found most of the guides didn't stress enough is the amount of tension you need to put on the bar tape when wrapping it. If you don't put a decent amount of tension on it won't conform to the bars properly and you'll get horrible creases etc especially around the bends in the bar. Just be careful not to pull too hard and break the tape!


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## Oddbot (22 Jan 2013)

Here's my second go re-wrapping it. I still feel like I'm getting the rotations to close to each other. But my friend told me it looks good.


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## HovR (22 Jan 2013)

It's looking pretty good! If you're running out of tape at that point then the rotations may be a little close together, but the actual wrap looks to be nice and neat. I found this video to be pretty good, especially in showing how to finish the wrap at the top of the bar.

Wrapping bars is a little bit of an art, but once you've done it a few times it's no problem. I know when I wrapped my first set of bars I ordered two sets of tape so if I completely messed one up I could start again!

One key note though.. Don't forget the brake lever(s), as they have to go on before the tape!


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## jim55 (22 Jan 2013)

one thing iv learnt about wrapping bars (i dont take all the sticky backing off therefore its not adhered to the bars just at the ends i remove it ,i find it helps every few rotations to grip the tape and rotate it around the bar in the direction ur wrapping (obv )it gets it a good bit tighter,and neater all round,with it being wrapped tighter and stuck at either end itl b solid and wont move ,iv done a few recently and this method works really well and if u need to u can unwrap it and try again its a far neater job


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## Oddbot (22 Jan 2013)

Yeah I only wrapped one side to see how it would go and left the other side where the brakes going for later.


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## Oddbot (23 Jan 2013)

I'm going to re wrap them today and space the tape out more. Also going to mount the brake lever and finish the whole bar. 

Now as for mounting my front brakes. The screw on the back is to short for the nut to reach through the forks. I'll open the hole I the back of the forks up a little to let the nut go through and see if this helps, just hope it will be stable enough. The last thing I need is my brakes to go flying off. Lol then I'll be forced to do that back wheel skid thing.


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## Cycleops (23 Jan 2013)

Yes, you have wrapped it overlapping too close together, but don't worry, you can just re-wrap it as you will need some on the top of the bars. You will also need a short length to go at the back of the lever. You'll get there in the end!


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## Oddbot (23 Jan 2013)

Yeah I figured it was to close. But you can't replace the experience you get from your mistakes lol. Also I'm going to put a base layer of purple electrical tape under it. It's probably pointless but theirs slight surface rust that i don't want to get any worse.


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## 4F (23 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Yeah I figured it was to close. But you can't replace the experience you get from your mistakes lol. Also I'm going to put a base layer of purple electrical tape under it. It's probably pointless but theirs slight surface rust that i don't want to get any worse.


 
If you have an old inner tube you can split it and then wrap the bars first as a cheap alternative to gel pads


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## HovR (23 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Now as for mounting my front brakes. The screw on the back is to short for the nut to reach through the forks.


 
By this do you mean the bolt on the back of the brake caliper is too short to go right through the fork crown? If you have a recessed fitting brake (as shown below) that is normal. The hole on the back side of the fork crown (if mounting on the front) has to be drilled out to 8mm to allow the recessed nut to fit.


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## Oddbot (23 Jan 2013)

Drilled that bad boy out and it still doesn't fit, I'm going to the bike shop now and I'll let them take a look at it. Also going to have then set up my chain and learn how to do it myself. 

In other news I wrapped my handle bars and put the brake lever on. Then I cut the 47t off of my original crank set and bolted the 36t back on. Now for pics.


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## HovR (23 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Drilled that bad boy out and it still doesn't fit, I'm going to the bike shop now and I'll let them take a look at it. Also going to have then set up my chain and learn how to do it myself.
> 
> In other news I wrapped my handle bars and put the brake lever on. Then I cut the 47t off of my original crank set and bolted the 36t back on. Now for pics.


 
Ah, I see what you mean. It's possible to get longer recessed nuts for use with carbon forks, but it sounds like it would fix your issue in this situation now.

Try taking some wire wool to that crank, you should be able to get it nice and shiny. Works a treat for removing surface rust. The build is really coming along well, the new bar tape transforms the look of the bike!


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## Oddbot (23 Jan 2013)

At the bike shop now. To achieve the proper chain line I needed a 1 1/2mm spacer on the back. Glad to have a local place with the know how to get this thing going.





Edit: just left and we got the front brake mounted . Left my bike with them to have it finished for tomorrow. So expect a completed photo shoot come this weekend if the weather permits. Oh and I picked up a helmet too, lol can't forget that.


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

I don't know what it is with Americans and their need to be peanuts to everyone but damn. Just joined road bike review and a troll has already come strolling out from under their bridge to shoot on my day. I think I'll stick to this forum.


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## Pennine-Paul (24 Jan 2013)

We're a fairly friendly bunch on here,If you'd had asked for advice on lfgss forum
they'd have ripped you apart,utfs is the standard reply there.
I'd replace that crank too,get a modern square type and replace your bottom bracket,
cottered cranks really belong in the past,Don't forget your foot retention,you need to be able to
resist the pedal stroke with one leg and pull up with the other simultaneously.


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

Lol yay more money to spend.

Edit: yeah I intended to replace the crank too at some point. I just want to get it working for now.

Edit2: what's mechanical mechanism makes a cotter crank? And what is the current type of crank used, and what mechanical mechanism is used in that?


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## Old Plodder (24 Jan 2013)

A 'cotter pin' is that bit of metal going through the 'crank arm' by the 'bottom bracket' (bb), it has a flat tapered side that is drawn tight by the nut & washer against a flat area on the 'bottom bracket spindle'. When you want to replace it, & you don't have to, get a square taper bb & alloy 'chainset' with cranks of the correct length, approx one fifth of your inside leg measurement, (usually 165mm or 170mm).
As long as you buy normal/regular bits, they can be re used if/when you upgrade.


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## Pennine-Paul (24 Jan 2013)

You may struggle finding new cotterpins and the quality is fairly poor these days,
Not really worth the extra hassle anymore,especially with loose bearings in the bottom bracket as well
Cartridge bottom brackets are the way to go and a matching track chainset as well


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

It's finished for now till I come into more money.


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## HovR (24 Jan 2013)

That's looking very nice! A massive improvement over when you first had the bike.

You might consider some sort of foot retention in the future (pedals with straps can be had for under $20 - never used the dealer before but he has a good presence on YouTube) and possibly a new saddle if you don't get along with that one. Great job though!


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## jim55 (24 Jan 2013)

is there any particular reason why the chainring (the front part by your right foot)is so small ?looks like ul b spinning like a madman ,unless uv got a 11 tooth rear sprocket it looks really small


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

The front is a 36t and the rear is a 16t. I went with this because I live in a area that is all hills. If I find my leg strength increasing and going up hills is a breeze I might change the ratio to something a little wider but for now this should do for my weak twig legs. 

And my next few mods will be the ones you guys said above. A new saddle that I'm looking at, crankset upgraded to a modern model, and new pedals with the straps to hold my feet in. Then I'll leave it like that for awhile.


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## jim55 (24 Jan 2013)

yeah ,that d b on my upgrade list 36*16 is roughly 60 gear inches so a bit spinny ,you should find it ok for uphills but on the descents ur legs will b a blur (hopefully )unless u control it well ,and defo foot retention someway


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

Yeah I realized the second I started riding the bike that I've got a whole slew of new techniques to learn. But i catch on quick. Also riding in 25 degrees literally makes my eyes water uncontrollably.

Edit: also I really really need to work up my cardio. I'm so out of shape it's laughable.


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## jim55 (24 Jan 2013)

really ,get a pair of specs ,even some safety glasses are cheap and funky looking something in ur eye as ur doing 20 mph is nothing to laugh about ,i always wear them


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

Lol yeah I still have a lot of gear to acquire. But it will take time. Also need to get a red blinking thing and headlight for night riding when summer rolls around.


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## HovR (24 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Also riding in 25 degrees...


 
I've taken to wearing one of these on my short (but cold) winter commute. It's so warm, you guys can keep your buffs!


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## ianrauk (24 Jan 2013)

jim55 said:


> really ,get a pair of specs ,even some safety glasses are cheap and funky looking something in ur eye as ur doing 20 mph is nothing to laugh about ,i always wear them


 

Indeed
It's especially important to wear glasses in winter.
It's amazing at how mucky my cycling glasses are after a morning or evening commute. Dust, grit, salt sticking to the lenses.


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## Oddbot (24 Jan 2013)

Lol yeah I still have a lot of gear to acquire. But it will take time. Also need to get a red blinking thing and headlight for night riding when summer rolls around.


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## 4F (25 Jan 2013)

You been down a steep hill yet


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## Oddbot (25 Jan 2013)

Yeah that was a blast, but I regulate my speed with the brake and mild pedal resistance. Till I can improve my skill set this works just fine for me.


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## Old Plodder (25 Jan 2013)

Good to hear you're enjoying your new set of wheels already.


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## Oddbot (29 Jan 2013)

Here's some pics of my first ride. Rode a lot further than I thought I could, even tackled as massive hill and won. 










Edit: just used map my run app for the iPhone and I did 10 miles today. That's 8 miles more than I thought I was capable. Hopefully tomorrow will be warm again and I can take advantage of the weather.

Edit edit: fastest I went was 25mph and I thought my legs were going to give out and get wrapped up in the chain. Made it through fine tho.


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## Oddbot (29 Jan 2013)

Still on my to buy list: 
First things first this saddle is so uncomfortable I can not use words to describe it. Then upgrading the crank set and all the bearings in there. Pedals with something to hold my feet in. Also some repair supply's for breakdown situations. 

After all of that its time for the next bike. Who knows what I'll do next.


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## Theseus (29 Jan 2013)

Oddbot, nice bike you have going there. I can't add to what has already been said about where to go from here, but I just wanted to add my words of encouragement.


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## Oddbot (29 Jan 2013)

Is their such a thing as a fixed multi-speed?


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## HovR (29 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Is their such a thing as a fixed multi-speed?


 
I believe I've heard of people creating 3 speed fixed gear bikes using Sturmey Archer hub gears, although I'm not sure on the specifics. You can't make a fixed gear bike using a traditional derailleur setup though.


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## Theseus (29 Jan 2013)

Indeed, SA produce a 3 speed fixed hub, the S3X.


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## Oddbot (30 Jan 2013)

How does it shift? Does it work like a automatic trans in a car ad at a certain speed it shifts?


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## Theseus (30 Jan 2013)

Oddbot said:


> How does it shift? Does it work like a automatic trans in a car ad at a certain speed it shifts?


 
Use a shifter, either this or this.


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## Old Plodder (30 Jan 2013)

If the new saddle doesn't let you ride in comfort, a pair of padded undershorts may help in that area.

As for the Sturmey, I believe you have to be rather precise as to when you change gear, from the diagrams I saw of a previous model, it still uses epicyclic gearing internally.

Personally, I would find a suitable gear ratio & stick with that, not having to change gear is half the pleasure of riding single speed or fixed.


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## Oddbot (30 Jan 2013)

I wasn't going to change the azuki from where it is now I like the way it's geared. I'm just thinking of what I would like to do down the road for my next bike. Personally I'd like to go as fast as possible on a bike and most likely I'm in the wrong section on the forum for posting these questions. Just wanted to get a General direction for which I should be going. 


Also woke up this morning and my neck and legs are killing me. Going to take a Epsom salt soak and see if I feel up to riding the stationary cycle later on tonight. That and riding in 50mph winds with light rain doesn't seem appealing today lol.


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## Old Plodder (30 Jan 2013)

For a 'faster' bike, a nice 'tight' road bike is the way to go.
(Tight, as in minimum clearances, especially between rear wheel & BB.)

Another forum thread to look at, you might like it.
http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/your-ride-today.8938/page-428


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## Oddbot (3 Feb 2013)

Just did 8.2 miles in one go this morning. I'm convinced its a religious experience.


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## Oddbot (5 Feb 2013)

Another 8 miles down but it would have been more had I not been distributing HFL cards. Also stopped at the local cafe for brunch.


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## Old Plodder (5 Feb 2013)

Now you're a cyclist.


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## Oddbot (5 Feb 2013)

also stopped by the local bike shop/smoothie bar for a banana raspberry smoothie which really helped as a pick me up before brunch. 

I've noticed that on the days I ride my head seems clearer. Feels good.


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## wanda2010 (6 Feb 2013)

The only item missing from the food pic above is.................... beer!!! Recovery drink don'cha no


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## Old Plodder (6 Feb 2013)

wanda2010 said:


> The only item missing from the food pic above is.................... beer!!! Recovery drink don'cha no


Now don't go getting him all unfit before he gets fit..........


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## Oddbot (6 Feb 2013)

wanda2010 said:


> The only item missing from the food pic above is.................... beer!!! Recovery drink don'cha no



Hahaha maybe a casual one but I'd have to stop there. The biggest reason I got into cycling was to have a positive promotion of quitting vices. I used to be a heavy drinker among other things. 

Also today is mid 50s with a cool breeze coming from the south . Going to take advantage of this.


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## wanda2010 (6 Feb 2013)

fatmac said:


> Now don't go getting him all unfit before he gets fit..........


 
I was trying to encourage a more healthy lifestyle but I now understand his reason excuse


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## Oddbot (7 Feb 2013)

Bought a new saddle, bike lock, and mirror. My bum is happy to not have to sit on that out dated 70's turd.


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## wanda2010 (7 Feb 2013)

Mirror? For the bike? You planning on admiring your cycling form then?


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## Oddbot (7 Feb 2013)

Lol to see behind me of course, turning my head back while going full tilt is a bit hazardous ive found.

Edit: also I'm a narcissist and love looking at myself and throwing autographed pictures to strangers on the sidewalks.


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## wanda2010 (7 Feb 2013)




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## Oddbot (10 Feb 2013)

Upgraded my crankset hardware to grade 8. Also got the pie dish off my old wheel and I'm going glassbead it then paint it black. Finally going to have the shop install it on the back wheel.






Edit: also cute picture of me, my lady, and my bike.


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## Oddbot (14 Feb 2013)

Does anyone have a good suggestion on a reasonably price aerodynamic frame? I'm going to be in market for my next bike this summer and I want to read up on what's out there.


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## Psyclist (14 Feb 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Does anyone have a good suggestion on a reasonably price aerodynamic frame? I'm going to be in market for my next bike this summer and I want to read up on what's out there.


 
Fixed? Try 'Unknown' bikes they're pretty well priced for the money.


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## Oddbot (14 Feb 2013)

I'm not a hundred percent sure about fixed just yet. I was looking at the s5 possibly if I was to get a multi speed.


Edit: Just got back from a short ride. That has to be the fastest I've went on this bike, 28 mph tops and 15 base line. That's 3 mph faster than my last record and well I thought my legs would give out but I stayed true and worked through it. Also ended up vomiting on my cool down ride around the parking lot.

Edit edit: just got back from a 6.5 mile around the area with my lady. This should put me at around 13 miles today rough estimate.


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## Old Plodder (15 Feb 2013)

I'd give it a couple of months before thinking about changing things, if your fit & flexible, fixed can really make you feel good about yourself. Having said that, if you're not sure about fixed try a single speed freewheel.
If you want to go fast, then it has to be a 'road bike'.


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## Oddbot (22 Feb 2013)

I have come to the conclusion that I am unable to do a skid stop due to my tire compound/tread design. The Michelin dynamic sport tires are more or less from what I can tell a entry level slick. It's like putting drag racing slicks on the back of my miata and attempting a burnout. Lack of power + to much grip = failure to skid. Not that is a important goal but I couldn't figure it out until recently. 

Also back to one job so the money to upgrade certain parts is being saved instead. This makes me sad in the fact my pants leg gets caught on the pins in my pedal arms.


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## uphillstruggler (22 Feb 2013)

Oddbot, you've done a cracking job with that bike. Well done.


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## Oddbot (22 Feb 2013)

uphillstruggler said:


> Oddbot, you've done a cracking job with that bike. Well done.



Thank you! I've got a few things I'd still like to do but they are not a must to ride the bike. Right now I just want the weather to warm up so I can enjoy it more. I need the soothing comfort of a bike ride.


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## Old Plodder (23 Feb 2013)

We're all waiting for warm weather.......


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## Cycleops (24 Feb 2013)

Oddbot said:


> Also back to one job so the money to upgrade certain parts is being saved instead. This makes me sad in the fact my pants leg gets caught on the pins in my pedal arms.



What you need is some good old cycle clips rounds the bottom of your trousers (pants), problem solved. Very fashionable too!


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## Oddbot (2 Mar 2013)

My girlfriend got me a stationary trainer for a late valentines day present. 






Needless to say I'm happy as can be.


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## wanda2010 (9 Mar 2013)

That girlfriend needs to be treasured


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## Oddbot (13 Mar 2013)

After a fair bit of riding I'm starting to see results. I can ride further and harder than I could when I first started. My cardio has now caught up to my muscle strength too. In April I'm riding in a event all be it a 7 mile ride I'm still going to train hard so I can give it everything ive got the whole way.


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## Oddbot (17 Mar 2013)

Ok I'm getting ready to upgrade my crankset and switch to a cartridge bottom bracket. But I don't know what size I need. How do I measure that so I can go ahead and order parts?


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## 4F (18 Mar 2013)

You need to measure across the shell of the bottom bracket, note this is across the shell not the diameter. You should then have either 68mm English or 73mm Italian.

The next thing to take into account is the spindle length of the BB which effects the chain line. For example on my fixed conversion I used a 68 x 103
which was spot on for me. The longer spindle lengths say for example 68 x 122 would be used for fitting a triple crank 

Take a look here for some great parts which also ship worldwide http://www.velosolo.co.uk/shopchain.html Also a very good FAQ section on lots of points for fixed / single speed.


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## Oddbot (19 Apr 2013)

Well I spent the money and bought the parts. Had the local shop Shenandoah bicycle company do the instal and setup my chain line. I went with a shimano bb, shun cranks and chainring, origin 8 track light pedals and toe straps.


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## Oddbot (24 May 2013)

I've done some good mileage the last few days. Sunday I did 38 miles to two different towns, Monday I went north to the next town that was 25-30 miles, then Tuesday I went to a local fishing lake which was about 20 miles. Wednesday I took a day off and today I did a short around town but got caught in a brilliant thunderstorm. Taking shelter under a school over hang I realized this Is what I need to be training for. Coast to coast is a goal I can say.


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## 3narf (24 May 2013)

Good luck with that! Bike looks superb.

Get yourself some clipless pedals! You'll never look back.


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## Oddbot (10 Jun 2013)

Well it's been a week but I had a incident.









I have a compound fracture to both bones in my forearm. Snapped them both lol falling from the bike when I got caught in the railroad tracks. I got two plates and 12 screws in my arm for the rest of my life.

I'm more excited to get back in the saddle than when I could ride. I even have it on the trainer right now so I can keep my legs in shape.


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## baldycyclist (10 Jun 2013)

wooooo - bent arm in the photo....ouch - take care man and stay away from rail tracks they hurt
Tkae care fella


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