# 29er spokes



## Large (5 May 2015)

Hi Folks - I'm not an MTB rider, but my Cannondale hybrid is a 29er and probably because of my weight, I keep breaking spokes on the back wheel, a standard Cannondale C4.

I've been thinking of getting the wheel rebuilt with MTB spokes, so can anyone recommend a particular brand that does strong spokes. I don't care about the weight, only that they are less likely to break than the spindly hybrid one. Oh, if they do black, that's just what I want.

Cheers


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## I like Skol (5 May 2015)

There is not really any such thing as an MTB spoke. Any quality spoke will be suitable for a road wheel or an MTB. I have just quickly googled a few key words and the answers suggest your wheel will be a 32 spoke item with 15g stainless steel spokes? The problem shouldn't be anything to do with your weight unless you are really continuously hammering the bike along broken roads. Like wise, the spokes should be of good enough quality to do the job without failing.
IMO the biggest culprit for snapping spokes is poor wheel building. A well built wheel will take a surprising amount of abuse without requiring any tweaking or truing on a regular basis. I build my own wheels and NEVER have to re-true them once they are in use unless they suffer serious accidental damage.

Having said that, I always use DT Swiss spokes and Mavic rims as they have proven to be a bombproof combination for me. The DT Swiss spoke is readily available double-butted in black from many suppliers. Double butted spokes are thinner along the middle of the spokes length but full thickness at the ends where they meet the hub and the rim. It may sound counter-intuitive to use a thinner spoke when your current full thickness spokes are snapping, but the argument is that the process of rolling the spokes thinner in the middle strengthens the structure of the steel and also that the thinner spoke will be slightly 'stretchier' so will resist snapping better than its full fat, unworked counterpart (this does not translate into a soggy, springy wheel, trust me ).

If you do get your wheel rebuilt with fresh spokes the single most important point is to have it done by someone who has the skill and time to do the job properly or else you can use the best spokes available and still have a wheel that is not fit for purpose.


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## Large (5 May 2015)

Thanks, that's a very thorough reply. My local branch of Evans will do the job, I think. I don't have the skills nor the tools to do it myself.


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## Pale Rider (5 May 2015)

My understanding is the bigger the wheel, the stronger it is because the longer spokes are better able to absorb stress.

Your 29er wheel could be all but bomb proof, but as Skolly says that relies on having good quality spokes in a properly built wheel.

The good news is the bits - quality spokes - are not expensive.

Build quality is harder to assess, but if your local branch of Evans is prepared to take the job on, it should follow they are capable of doing it to an acceptable standard.


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## Large (5 May 2015)

I've just spoken to Chaineys in Milton Keynes and they will be doing the work. Cheaper than Evans and it will get done in less time.

Thanks again for the advice.


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## Pale Rider (5 May 2015)

Large said:


> I've just spoken to Chaineys in Milton Keynes and they will be doing the work. Cheaper than Evans and it will get done in less time.
> 
> Thanks again for the advice.



Sounds good.

I see you mention black spokes.

We had a discussion on here a while ago which concluded there is no reason for black spokes to be any less strong than silver ones.

The experience of the wheel builder in my local bike shop is different.

He doesn't claim to have any metallurgy expertise, but he does say he sees a lot more broken black spokes than silver ones.

That could be because more of his customers have bikes with black spokes.

But he recommends silver spokes, particularly if the customer has had a series of breakages of black ones.

Again from his experience, customers who were breaking black spokes don't break silver ones after he has rebuilt the wheel.

That could be because his build is better than the factory original.

Might be worth asking your wheel builder what he thinks, if you've not done so already.


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## Large (5 May 2015)

Black spokes are for aesthetics only, but I'll mention it when I drop the wheel in tomorrow.


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## Spoked Wheels (5 May 2015)

Pale Rider said:


> My understanding is the bigger the wheel, the stronger it is because the longer spokes are better able to absorb stress.
> 
> Your 29er wheel could be all but bomb proof, but as Skolly says that relies on having good quality spokes in a properly built wheel.
> 
> ...



Actually, longer spokes or larger diameter do not make a wheel stronger. If you have a 26" and 29" wheels both with the same spoke type, spoke count and the same hub width then the 29" is less strong than the 26" wheel ( the opposite of what you are saying I think) The spokes on the 29", wheel, being a larger diameter, would have the spokes further apart which would make the wheel less stiff and less strong.

More spokes and tension makes a stronger wheel. More spokes and stiffer rim makes a wheel laterally stiffer (assuming the bracing angle is the same) 

Totally agree with the wheelbuilding part..... if not put together properly then problems will appear sooner rather than later. You also have to consider wheel design, if not thought out properly you'll have issues at some point.


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## Large (12 May 2015)

I like Skol said:


> There is not really any such thing as an MTB spoke. Any quality spoke will be suitable for a road wheel or an MTB. I have just quickly googled a few key words and the answers suggest your wheel will be a 32 spoke item with 15g stainless steel spokes? The problem shouldn't be anything to do with your weight unless you are really continuously hammering the bike along broken roads. Like wise, the spokes should be of good enough quality to do the job without failing.
> IMO the biggest culprit for snapping spokes is poor wheel building. A well built wheel will take a surprising amount of abuse without requiring any tweaking or truing on a regular basis. I build my own wheels and NEVER have to re-true them once they are in use unless they suffer serious accidental damage.
> 
> Having said that, I always use DT Swiss spokes and Mavic rims as they have proven to be a bombproof combination for me. The DT Swiss spoke is readily available double-butted in black from many suppliers. Double butted spokes are thinner along the middle of the spokes length but full thickness at the ends where they meet the hub and the rim. It may sound counter-intuitive to use a thinner spoke when your current full thickness spokes are snapping, but the argument is that the process of rolling the spokes thinner in the middle strengthens the structure of the steel and also that the thinner spoke will be slightly 'stretchier' so will resist snapping better than its full fat, unworked counterpart (this does not translate into a soggy, springy wheel, trust me ).
> ...



My LBS has trued and replaced the three broken spokes on standard wheel but I am arranging for a new one to be built. The suggestion from the shop was Mavic rims and DT swiss spokes.


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## Large (12 May 2015)

Next quesition - Hubs. LBS has recommended a Hope Pro2 Evo which is more money than the spokes and rims combined. What would be the consequence of buying a less expensive (and, presumably, less good) hub?


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## I like Skol (12 May 2015)

Something from Shimano, Tiagra or above will suffice. Personally I use XT so the road equivalent would I presume be 105?

105 Rear hub for £38 and can be found for less if shopping around.


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## Spoked Wheels (14 May 2015)

Large said:


> Next quesition - Hubs. LBS has recommended a Hope Pro2 Evo which is more money than the spokes and rims combined. What would be the consequence of buying a less expensive (and, presumably, less good) hub?



Hope Pro2 are good hubs and easy to maintain. If you don't do too many miles maybe that is too much money to spend on a hub. Also, if you don't like noisy hubs then definitely you don't want a Hope Pro2.

Novatec D711SB / D712SB would do a very good job at half the price.

Buying more expensive normally means buying lighter hubs but there exceptions.
Don't be afraid to go for cheaper, there are some really good hubs that are a bit heavier but very good. 

The important thing is to get a good build or you will have problems again. See if your LBS has a specialist wheelbuilder if they have a jack of all trades then look somewhere else.


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## Spoked Wheels (14 May 2015)

I like Skol said:


> Something from Shimano, Tiagra or above will suffice. Personally I use XT so the road equivalent would I presume be 105?
> 
> 105 Rear hub for £38 and can be found for less if shopping around.


I'm pretty sure the OP is looking for hubs that takes a rotor and the 105 doesn't.


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## I like Skol (14 May 2015)

Spoked Wheels said:


> I'm pretty sure the OP is looking for hubs that takes a rotor and the 105 doesn't.


Yes, I forgot how the thread started, probably will want an MTB hub, so I stand by my recommendation of XT then 

6 bolt XT disc rear hub. £32 delivered.


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