# iLB's ride to India ...progress report...



## ianrauk (24 Mar 2016)

Rather then putting this in the Ferry thread I thought it would be a good idea to start a new thread tracking his progress.

I'll update it as and when I can. I will also try get the wandering wastrel to pop in and post when he can.

*The first leg, roughly plotted. Mum is not so big on Google maps. Wheels turning imminently*








*There really are a lot of people riding in Holland. 105 k yesterday, around 100k today. Made it to the Jaspers in Oldebroek this evening.*






*Was a real slog in the second half of the day but the sun and views made up for it*





*A truely glamorous lifestyle. 172km into a headwind over two days, legs definitely feeling it. Shower and recharge on the ferry then Holland in the morning*





*Spent some time definitely not going the right way today. Rescued by awesome German family tonight *





*Getting into the swing of life on the road, snuck the tent on the edge of a football pitch last night. Crossed into Germany this morning. Following the euroweg to Berlin , where did the sun go !?*





*Pulling Aurora out of the shadows to hit the road again this morning. South and east towards the German border. *


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## summerdays (24 Mar 2016)

Is there a short summary of his plans? How long is he intending to take and when did he set off?


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## ianrauk (24 Mar 2016)

summerdays said:


> Is there a short summary of his plans? How long is he intending to take and when did he set off?




Hi plans are more on the hoof to see how it goes rather then anything set in stone. But he's hoping to be in India for the summer. He'll be staying with friends in Berlin and also in Romania.
He set off on the 17th.


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## Crackle (24 Mar 2016)

Where's he going from Turkey, Iran?


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## ianrauk (24 Mar 2016)

Crackle said:


> Where's he going from Turkey, Iran?




I'll find out


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## ianrauk (24 Mar 2016)

Just had a text.

*Got stomach bug I think. Not much fun.
Will go to Azerbaijan and the Kazakhstan and onward.*


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## ianrauk (25 Mar 2016)

*Today was very wet*






*Highest point of the ride so far "Bad Horn" . Rain all day but great riding through the hills and humanity in abundance *


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## ianrauk (25 Mar 2016)

I'm guessing he means Horn-Bad in Meinberg germany. And from Wikipedia
_
Horn-Bad Meinberg is a town in the Lippe district of North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany, with c. 17,185 inhabitants (2013). It was formed in 1970 by merging various other towns that had grown together, including Bad Meinberg and Horn - the new entity's original name was Bad Meinberg-Horn, before taking its present name.
Horn-Bad Meinberg is the location of the Externsteine, a rock formation consisting of several tall, narrow columns._


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## Haitch (25 Mar 2016)

ianrauk said:


> I'm guessing he means Horn-Bad in Meinberg germany.



He means Horn-Bad Meinberg. I cycled there last year and climbed up those same rocks.

Thanks for making this thread by the way. Very interesting.


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## tallliman (26 Mar 2016)

Is there any reason he's headed to India or just fun?


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## ianrauk (26 Mar 2016)

tallliman said:


> Is there any reason he's headed to India or just fun?




He's always wanted to visit India and thought this would be a good way to do it.


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## tallliman (26 Mar 2016)

Thanks, that's as good a reason as any!


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## ianrauk (27 Mar 2016)

*Blessed with every surface possible today. Sand, gravel, mud, tarmac and even some cobbled sectors. Even had to push on one of the off road climbs *






*Sheltering from the storm today, any cover is inviting*


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## steveindenmark (28 Mar 2016)

A day of sunshine, even if it is cold, will raise his spirits. Does he not have a blog?

I wish him well.


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## ianrauk (28 Mar 2016)

Just had word. He is in Bad Harzburg in Lower Saxony.


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## GrumpyGregry (28 Mar 2016)

I do hope those are my old ortliebs on the back. They deserved a good outing those bags. Send him my regards, and tell him I've lit a candle for him.


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## ianrauk (30 Mar 2016)

*Cranked out 186km today so will wake up to a day off in Berlin for my birthday. Seriously big day*


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## ianrauk (1 Apr 2016)

*I arrived in Berlin wet, cold and tired having ridden through hail storms and rain to get there. Rolling out today under sunny blue skies after a great refuel with J and G , thanks boys. Vienna here I come.*


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## ianrauk (3 Apr 2016)

*Another 100k in the bag into a warm headwind and I've bagged country number 4*


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## theclaud (3 Apr 2016)

Czech out that quiff!


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## ianrauk (3 Apr 2016)

theclaud said:


> Czech out that quiff!


Oh to have such bouffant and luscious locks...


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## ianrauk (4 Apr 2016)

*Not a bad spot for lunch on a Monday. The hills found me at last.*






Basalt rock formation, Kamenický Šenov, Czech Republic.


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## steveindenmark (4 Apr 2016)

186km with panniers is impressive.

What bike is he riding?


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## Dayvo (4 Apr 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> 186km with panniers is impressive.
> 
> What bike is he riding?


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## steveindenmark (4 Apr 2016)

Your just being ridiculous now Dave


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## ianrauk (4 Apr 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> 186km with panniers is impressive.
> 
> What bike is he riding?



Jamis Aurora Elite


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## steveindenmark (4 Apr 2016)

Im not surprised now. It sounds like something off Star Trek. He must be travelling at wharp speed.


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## GrumpyGregry (4 Apr 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> Im not surprised now. It sounds like something off Star Trek. He must be travelling at wharp speed.


It has a much better motor than my 'rora 'leet, that's for sure!


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## ianrauk (6 Apr 2016)

*One night you sleep in someone's kitchen and the next you sneak off the road at dusk, and pray.*


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## ianrauk (7 Apr 2016)

*Couldn't resist taking the side entrance into Vienna*


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## GrumpyGregry (8 Apr 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> Your just being ridiculous now Dave



What are the modern Cali''s like to ride? I had a Spada for a while donkey's ago, and a Le Mans, but could never quite buy the whole Guzzi as laidback cruiser vibe.


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## ianrauk (8 Apr 2016)

Word in from the wanderer in the form of text..

_Was fighting the sun and the hills. In rainy Vienna today for a rest :-) 2000kms now. 
Will head to Gyor to watch Paris Roubiax with Hungarian mechanic from work, then spending next weekend in Budapest with Ruth (his girlfriend).
So a bit of a slower week now. _


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## ianrauk (11 Apr 2016)

*First one down... Going to eek out a few more kms before switching in Romania*


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## summerdays (11 Apr 2016)

Do you know how many miles he has covered so far?


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## iLB (11 Apr 2016)

Somewhere north of 2000kms so far. 

https://andrewcater.wordpress.com/2016/04/11/three-weeks-down-the-road/


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## jags (11 Apr 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> Your just being ridiculous now Dave


class


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## ianrauk (12 Apr 2016)

Day 27 Hungary

*Some beautiful light spilling through the trees this morning as I took a dirt track through the forest*


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## fossyant (12 Apr 2016)

ianrauk said:


> *First one down... Going to eek out a few more kms before switching in Romania*
> 
> View attachment 124465



Good lad, my mate is riding round the world and isn't looking at checking chains. Only fixes it if it breaks. He has been gone about 5 years. He's run out of time in the USA (can't stay long even as a Brit) and is off into Mexico as we type.


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## Blue Hills (13 Apr 2016)

ianrauk said:


> *First one down... Going to eek out a few more kms before switching in Romania*
> 
> View attachment 124465



Aren't you strictly supposed to change the chain at 0.75 to protect sprockets and chainset? Not that I'm pretending I always do. Impressed by care in taking the chain checker though.

Great thread.


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## ianrauk (13 Apr 2016)

Day 28

*Nothing but Hungarian plains as far as the eye can see*


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## Hill Wimp (13 Apr 2016)

Where does he hope to enter India and do we know his route once he has arrived there ?


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## ianrauk (13 Apr 2016)

Hill Wimp said:


> Where does he hope to enter India and do we know his route once he has arrived there ?




It's all very much on the fly - it's the type of guy he is. Even though he has an outline and semi idea of the route.. he's just cycling.


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## GrumpyGregry (14 Apr 2016)

Blue Hills said:


> Aren't you strictly supposed to change the chain at 0.75 to protect sprockets and chainset? Not that I'm pretending I always do. Impressed by care in taking the chain checker though.
> 
> Great thread.


the guy is pure class so I would expect nothing less


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## ianrauk (15 Apr 2016)

Day 30
*The most idyllic spot I've awoken to so far this morning, the Danube practically lapping at the fly sheet*


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## ianrauk (19 Apr 2016)

Day 33

*The 1st edition of the Budapest - Arad "Fully loaded" spring classic was a true leg breaker at 280km. Good to shake things up after a weekend off.




*


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## Blue Hills (19 Apr 2016)

280 loaded in one day?


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## ianrauk (19 Apr 2016)

Blue Hills said:


> 280 loaded in one day?




That's well within his capabilities.


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## Blue Hills (19 Apr 2016)

Cripes

You'd better send him an alert as he approaches India - he's in danger of overshooting.


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## hatler (21 Apr 2016)

Wow. What a lad.


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## ianrauk (22 Apr 2016)

Day 36... Romania

*Hard to believe this used to be my back garden , this little village in Romania still feels like home. Back on the road in the morning*


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## ianrauk (25 Apr 2016)

Day 39 Andy's feeling a bit low..in the Spa town of Băile Herculane - Romania






*At 4 degrees today was 20 degrees lower than Saturday. Too cold and wet for many snaps. Really been fighting for clarity and motivation these last days*


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## Glow worm (25 Apr 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Day 39 Andy's feeling a bit low..in Băile Herculane - Romania
> 
> View attachment 126127
> 
> ...



A like for the update rather than the content. Brrrr. It was cold enough cycling home here tonight let alone over there.


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## rich p (25 Apr 2016)

It can be lonely on your Jack Jones. Hope he regains the mojo.
I tried unsuccessfully to find the piccie of him cycling from London to Brighjton on a BMX.


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## GrumpyGregry (26 Apr 2016)

Surely he is bound to feel a bit down after leaving the bit of Romania where he lived and worked? Couple of decent days weather and the crossing of an international border so he is looking forwards and not thinking back will do him a power of good.


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## rich p (26 Apr 2016)

User13710 said:


> This one? What a triumph that was.
> 
> View attachment 126132


That's the geezer! I took the photo but I'm buggered if I can find it now
It was an immense feat, especially up the Beacon!


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## uphillstruggler (26 Apr 2016)

This is immense.

How do you pay for something like this?

Best of luck to the guy.


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## hatler (26 Apr 2016)

Did he do the Beacon twice on that ? I have a dim recollection that he might have.


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## ianrauk (27 Apr 2016)

hatler said:


> Did he do the Beacon twice on that ? I have a dim recollection that he might have.




I think he did....


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## ianrauk (27 Apr 2016)

Day 41 Port of Brechet, Romanian/Bulgarian border.


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## Blue Hills (27 Apr 2016)

Is that last pic a caption competition?


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## Milkfloat (27 Apr 2016)

If it is a selfie the ride has certainly aged him.


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## GrumpyGregry (27 Apr 2016)

Either he has grown about four feet in height or she is one short lady.


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## ianrauk (29 Apr 2016)

Day 42
*Rumours from the locals of roads blocked by snow, hard to believe when it is sweltering all day long.*






Gabrovo, Bulgaria


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## ianrauk (1 May 2016)

Day 44 Bulgarian-Turkey Border

*Thank you Bulgaria , my favorite country so far. Sorry it was so short.*






Day 43. Ayşekadın - Edirne - Turkey

*A very promising start to time in Turkey*





Selimiye Mosque


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## Dayvo (2 May 2016)

He didn't try and do this there, did he?






Good on 'im!


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## ianrauk (4 May 2016)

Day 47 Istanbul, Turkey

*Forcing our way into the centre of Istanbul on the D100 is easily one of the craziest things I've done on a bicycle.*


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## BalkanExpress (4 May 2016)

ianrauk said:


> I think he did....




Yes, he did indeed. Found the video of that ride


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oK6volZa2cA


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## Dayvo (4 May 2016)

BalkanExpress said:


> Yes, he did indeed. Found the video of that ride
> 
> 
> View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oK6volZa2cA




Blimey, was he holding onto a widescreen TV, too?


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## ianrauk (6 May 2016)

Day 49
*Serious respect to robert_ricketts for jumping into the thick of it to ride a week with me in Turkey. What a man. Got to get him on a plane from Ankara by Sunday.*


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## ianrauk (8 May 2016)

Day 50
*It's not every Saturday you roll through the most beautiful and other worldly landscape you've ever seen

Beypazarı Çarşısı*


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## ianrauk (9 May 2016)

*Europe: Phase one*

It was in no way an act of running away. Other than the job things were good, I was in love, good friends, family, security. It felt more like wrenching away from those things, to pursue a long held idea or dream for which the stage had finally been set. A window of opportunity that had been crafted, laboured over and fought for but that could not remain open for ever. A jump into the unknown, away from all those safe and good things. I cried as I rolled away from the house where I had grown up, and again for an hour after saying goodbye to her outside that shiny Holborn office block. I felt that I had to go, to at least enter the arena, to ask those questions; but will all this in the back of my mind and the cynical words of a cocky Essex tree surgeon ringing in my ears on the second day it was little wonder that I was already asking myself what on earth I was doing as I got within 20 miles of the ferry at Harwich. Damn the bike felt heavy in those days.

Of course one is bound to make some planning over sights on such a trip, but I surprised even myself at not taking a map of Holland. It was only the first foreign country I arrived in after all. It was about 5° when I rolled off the ferry, some 10° less than it had been the day before when I left England. And so the theme for the first two weeks of riding was set, cold and damp. Two pairs of gloves, winter tights, too cold to stand around and freezing for camping. Down jacket on inside down sleeping bag was the vibe. It didn’t take too long finding a map on that first morning and shortly thereafter I discovered the joys of the Dutch cycle path system. Which I would now say is unsurpassed in all Europe.

I remember it being grey, bleak and windy and not being able to find a garden to camp in for mile after mile. Eventually, after a phone call from London and more road side tears, well after darkness had fallen I found a patch of land that finally didn’t seem to be owned by someone and snuck off the road. More layers went on and then I stood in silence, straining to hear if someone might be coming. Still nothing, so I cooked a simple meal of pasta as quietly as I could,locked the bike to a nearby tree and jumped into the tent; all the while holding my breath and expecting someone to appear. Clearly this was going to take some getting used to.

TBC.


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## doog (10 May 2016)

ianrauk said:


> It was in no way an act of running away. Other than the job things were good, I was in love, good friends, family, security. I*t felt more like wrenching away from those things, to pursue a long held idea or dream for which the stage had finally been set.*


a brilliant quote that sums up these madcap journeys we do.....


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## ianrauk (13 May 2016)

Day 55 Göreme - Capadokia (Turkey)

*Well worth a day off the bike to stroll through these ancient landscapes*


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## ianrauk (14 May 2016)

Day 56 Göreme - Capadokia (Turkey)
*Two days awake at dawn. Two days no balloons. Start to track north and east towards Georgia today*


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## ianrauk (16 May 2016)

Day 58 Sivas - Turkey
*80km on a dodgy stomach and getting chased by a massive Kangal dog makes for a grim day. On the bright side I have hit 5000kms for the trip.*


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## iLB (17 May 2016)

Thanks Ian for curating this for me. Very cool. I ate at a place called Fat Boys with an American couple a few nights back FYI.

Here's a link to the latest update from me https://andrewcater.wordpress.com/2016/05/17/europe-phase-one-pt-2/

Hope you enjoy, plan is to be back on the road in the morning. Lots of mountain passes coming up before Erzincan and Erzurum.


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## ianrauk (17 May 2016)

And here's the wandering wastrel's latest post

Day 59 Still in Turkey
*It's all big blue skies and rolling clouds whilst the dogs are otherwise engaged*


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## ianrauk (18 May 2016)

Day 60 Zara Şehir Merkezi
*And shortly after came the rain*


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## ianrauk (20 May 2016)

Day 62 Erzincan - Turkey

*Pretty tasty hitting passes of 2190m and 2160m twice in 24 hours.*


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## Absinthe Minded (20 May 2016)

Wow, this is just fabulous. Hats off to that man and thank you for posting this.


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## ianrauk (23 May 2016)

Day 65 Zigana Geçidi Hamsiköy Dağ Tesisleri (Turkey)
*Heading up to 2000m again. Legs.*


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## Crackle (24 May 2016)

User said:


> He seems to be heading north...
> 
> Is he not aiming for Iran?


I asked that and...



ianrauk said:


> Just had a text.
> 
> *Got stomach bug I think. Not much fun.
> Will go to Azerbaijan and the Kazakhstan and onward.*


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## ianrauk (24 May 2016)

User said:


> He seems to be heading north...
> 
> Is he not aiming for Iran?



No. He's heading north to Azerbaijan and then onto Kazakhstan.


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## ianrauk (24 May 2016)

User said:


> The long route round then...
> 
> I know a few people who have cycled through Iran and found it amazing - a generous and hospitable country.




Yep..the boy's definitely on a big adventure.


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## doog (24 May 2016)

Most people appear to cycle the 'Stans' now....which is a shame as Iranian hospitality is apparently second to none...Not sure what the political situation is at the moment, I guess there's a reason its being avoided...


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## ianrauk (25 May 2016)

Day 67 Ardeşen/RİZE

*Legs felt hollow yesterday and every pedal stroke was a conscious effort. Happy to call it a day watching this.*


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## robjh (25 May 2016)

doog said:


> Most people appear to cycle the 'Stans' now....which is a shame as Iranian hospitality is apparently second to none...Not sure what the political situation is at the moment, I guess there's a reason its being avoided...


I think the eastern part of Iran towards Pakistan is consided quite dangerous, for banditry etc. Emily Chapell was given a police escort in this part.


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## ianrauk (26 May 2016)

Day 68

*Throw back to a particularly noisy night spent under a wind turbine the night before I arrived in Berlin. Story to follow.*


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## ianrauk (26 May 2016)

*Cracking Berlin – Pt 1.
*
The learning curve of those first two weeks spent riding across northern Europe was far steeper than I could have anticipated. I continued to wrestle with the wind, rain and constant need to make decisions. Settling in to life on the road was taking some time, and the prospect of finding somewhere safe to camp at the end of each day was an increasingly stressful propostion. Tiredness was creeping in but I felt the need to endure this bedding in period, hoping – though not certain – that a more sustainable rhythm would develop.


I persevered for several days longer with the R1 route, learning to keep a keen eye for the small signs which mark the way. The route was truely interesting and I had managed to find gardens and trailer beds to sleep in along the way thanks to kind hearted German families. Still I was growing increasingly frustrated by getting routinely lost, at least twice a day, and making very slow progress as a result. Both of these things I knew would easily be remedied by switching back to following the road network.

Three days out from my 25th birthday I could feel my grip slowly loosening on the prize of a few days off in Berlin to celebrate. A thorough look at the map suggested that if I dispensed with following the R1 that morning then I might just give myself a chance. I had already lost the trail the previous evening before camping so the seperation was made. Setting off down hill on the Easter Monday felt good, a new start almost. Yet somehow, within just 5km of setting off, the road had intersected once more with the R1. Astonishing. After days of trying to follow it and losing it so often, now that I had tried to purposefully leave it – I had found it again with ease. Tragically like a moth to a flame I was drawn into giving it one last chance. I confidently powered up an offroad ascent, eventually leaving the forest and taking lunch up on a ridge overlooking the road I had negected to follow. This was the life. I set off once more. Hopeful.

Shortly afterwards the path hit a cross roads, and to my dismay (but not surprise) there was no indication of which way the R1 continued. An “educated” guess with the compass only resulted in losing an hours progress and gaining an extra 3km climb. The time had come to leave the R1 for good. Buoyed by finally taking this decision I blasted along tarmac roads for several hours further, at times benefitting from a considerable tail wind – comfortably surpassing 100km for the day. Finding a spot to tuck the tent in to that evening was more of a challenge; inevitably the list of criteria for what counted as suitable dwindled as my tiredness increased. Eventually I took my chance as the road went quiet; taking a sharp 90 degree turn and careering up the track to the base of a wind turbine. I quickly stashed the bike behind it, then crouched down in the grass, breathing hard, my heart pounding in my chest from the sudden effort – I watched for any sign that I had been seen. A few minutes passed with no movement from the surrounding houses, my breathing slowed. Safe. I began to cook, leaning back against the immense steel collumn, completely hidden from view and sheltered from the heavy rain that was falling. The stage was set; around 180km north east of me was a warm bed and good friends in Berlin. Would I make it the next day…

TBC.


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## ianrauk (27 May 2016)

Day 69 Batumi, Georgia

*Alphabet tower,Batumi. Sunset.*






*Awaiting the start of critical mass Batumi. Great bunch. *


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## ianrauk (30 May 2016)

Day 72 Borjormi, Georgia.

*Hello Georgia, goodbye tarmac.*


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## growingvegetables (30 May 2016)

Roads are ****, but the food should be good?


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## hatler (31 May 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Day 72 Borjormi, Georgia.
> 
> *Hello Georgia, goodbye tarmac.*
> View attachment 130188
> ...


Ewwww. What sized tyres ?


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## ianrauk (2 Jun 2016)

Day 74 Uplistsikhe Cave Town, Georgia


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Jun 2016)

hatler said:


> Ewwww. What sized tyres ?


If his 'rora'lite runs the same as mine 35c. Mine has coped with the SDW, just.


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## hatler (2 Jun 2016)

GrumpyGregry said:


> If his 'rora'lite runs the same as mine 35c. Mine has coped with the SDW, just.


Fingers crossed they are the same as yours then. Could get ugly otherwise.


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Jun 2016)

hatler said:


> Fingers crossed they are the same as yours then. Could get ugly otherwise.


Dang right, it could.


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## iLB (2 Jun 2016)

Yes they are 35s. The rear has worn so much it starts to look slick now.


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## ianrauk (2 Jun 2016)

Day 75 Peace Bridge, Tbilisi, Georgia


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## hatler (2 Jun 2016)

iLB said:


> Yes they are 35s. The rear has worn so much it starts to look slick now.


Do you need a new one posting out ? Or a pair ?


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## iLB (3 Jun 2016)

hatler said:


> Do you need a new one posting out ? Or a pair ?



I'm hoping that it is just the first layer that is gone and plenty of tough rubber remains. My plan is to swap the front and rear once in Baku, the front being much less worn. Fingers crossed that will see me through. 

Any ideas of mileage from marathon plus tours fully loaded anyone ?


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## hatler (3 Jun 2016)

Baku's fun. Just don't get mown down by the presidential motorcade when it tears out of the city. One hazard for visitors to the city are the holes in the pavements - missing drain covers and the like. So beware.

If you do need tyres, just shout.


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## ianrauk (3 Jun 2016)

Cracking Berlin Pt 2.. 






By the time the alarm sounded at 6am I felt as though I had only just fought off the cold, damp conditions and achieved sleep. Weak willed as ever I snoozed it until 6.30am. Erecting the tent in a far from expert manner as the rain fell the night before meant that I was sharing the tent with some rain for the night. Seemingly not content with the amount of water inside it continued to rain heavily outside, eventually saturating the fly sheet. I was forced to cover the sleeping bag with my waterproof to shield it and me from the worst of the rain. It had been a great tent a few years back. Summer. Summer will come, I thought.

Finally I forced myself to emerge from the warm cocoon of my sleeping bag, fully aware I had no food for breakfast and that forward motion was the only option. As I had come to expect, by the time I had rolled up the last part of he tent my fingers were searing with pain from the cold. I was only too glad to roll away and generate some body heat.

Only two weeks in I was still proudly hanging onto my coffee addiction, so I was extremely happy to find an open bakery in the second village I arrived in. Clutching the little cup with both hands to thaw my stinging digits my eyes poured over the map. I calculated the distance would be well over 160kms to reach Berlin; that’s a solid days ride without 30 odd kilos of luggage for company. No matter, I thought if I could reach Potsdam by evening then I could crawl into Berlin. Most likely anyway.

Shortly after leaving the call of nature inevitably sounded, leading to meet possibly the most upbeat petrol station attendant I have ever met. It’s well known that petrol stations provide an unlikely yet vital refuge for many a long distance cyclist. So I can say I have made the acquaintance of my share of attendants at all times of day and night, and in varying states of physical and mental well being. Often one finds a surly, expressionless character; unwilling or unable to offer much by way of communication. Perhaps they simply mirror the condition of the rider? By compare this woman was alarmingly cheery and communicative. I will admit to deliberately eschewing her route advice, but nevertheless this was surely a positive start.

A combined sense of great optimism and a light tail wind meant that the first 80kms flew by. Even the portly gentleman I spoke to whilst waiting at a small river crossing thought that Berlin was a reasonable target. Surely he should know. As far as 140kms into the day the legs were feeling strong, and around this time I saw a sign for Berlin saying just 27kms. “…crushing it.” I reported to Jack in a text message. And yet an hour and a half later the signs for Berlin Mitte were reading 30kms. Time for me to be crushed.

Late in the afternoon the ominously dark clouds which had shadowed me all day finally unleashed their payload. Twice I was hit by tremendous downpours of hail stones, but somehow I arrive in Potsdam to bright sunshine.






At this point I was teetering on the edge of bonking, having run out of food, but at least I was lucky enough to find a man riding a mountain bike to navigate Potsdam for me and put me on the road to Berlin. Thank you that man. I can only think he was late for an appointment though as he set the most furious pace. Sprinting away from the lights, then darting and diving through groups of pedestrians on the bike path. I just about clung on to his rear wheel, struggling to see straight, body demanding calories and sugar. That awful light headed feeling washing over me.

After creeping my way up two small hills on the road to Berlin and suffering a further deluge of hail stones I collapsed through the doors of a McDonald’s. Having inhaled a meal and recovered a little I consulted Google maps to see what the damage would be. shoot. Still far more kilometres remained than I’d have liked.

An unfortunate wrong turn saw me take the hilly scenic rout around Lake Havel, but by the time I had realised I had gone too far for turning around to be an option. At last I hit the road dead straight road for the centre. It was dark by this point and my concentration was all but gone, not the best part of the day to hit a bustling city centre. Bike paths meeting and leaving the main road at random, with the occasional appearance of wet cobbles -slick and shiny- to keep me on my toes. I didn’t quite fit in with the tourist crowd at Brandenburger Tor, but eventually bagged a few snaps.

I wove my way through the final kilometres of Berlin traffic with one brake and only partly aware of my surroundings. I knew it was almost done. Up the small ramp on Petersburger Strasse and hit the buzzer for the flat. 184kms, I was done.


----------



## iLB (3 Jun 2016)

Damn you are fast Ian, here's the link if anyone wants to share further...https://andrewcater.wordpress.com/2016/06/03/cracking-berlin-pt-2/


----------



## ianrauk (5 Jun 2016)

Day 77 Gombori, Georgia

*Sunset between two peaks part way up Gombori Pass*


----------



## ianrauk (5 Jun 2016)

Day 78 Gombori, Georgia

*Sunday morning prime time*


----------



## ianrauk (7 Jun 2016)

Day 79 Georgia, Sighnaghi.
*The gardens at The Monastery of St Nino, Bodbe. Only 600 odd steps down to the holy spring and back up*


----------



## ianrauk (7 Jun 2016)

Day 79 Azerbaijan, Zagatala
*Welcome to Azerbaijan, where the dogs chase you on both flanks. Smart.*


----------



## ianrauk (9 Jun 2016)

Day 81 Oguz, Oğuz, Azerbaijan
*Today turned into a real hot one.*


----------



## uphillstruggler (9 Jun 2016)

This is a cracking thread . What a story to tell people


----------



## ianrauk (10 Jun 2016)

Day 82 Shamakhy, Azerbaijan

*Grain for days.*


----------



## Tanis8472 (10 Jun 2016)

So where to after Azerbaijan ??
Iran?
Russia?

Some trip


----------



## ianrauk (10 Jun 2016)

Tanis8472 said:


> So where to after Azerbaijan ??
> Iran?
> Russia?
> 
> Some trip


I'm trying to find out. Will report back when I hear from him..or perhaps he will.


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## Tanis8472 (10 Jun 2016)

Unless its a ferry to Turkmenistan


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## ianrauk (10 Jun 2016)

Tanis8472 said:


> Unless its a ferry to Turkmenistan




That's what I was thinking. he's heading for Baku by the looks of thing, so that looks the likely.


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## iLB (10 Jun 2016)

On the boat to Aktau, Kazakhstan but not for a few days.


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## ianrauk (10 Jun 2016)

iLB said:


> On the boat to Aktau, Kazakhstan but not for a few days.




Tried calling... no answer


----------



## hatler (10 Jun 2016)

Are you sorted for somewhere to stay? I have one contact in Baku.


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## Tanis8472 (10 Jun 2016)

Cool


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## iLB (10 Jun 2016)

hatler said:


> Are you sorted for somewhere to stay? I have one contact in Baku.



I'm with an American couple for a week until they move to Slovenia, may need to find something afterwards depending on visas and boat arrivals. 

Sorry Ian, big glass of beer.


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## srw (10 Jun 2016)

iLB said:


> I'm with an American couple for a week until they move to Slovenia, may need to find something afterwards depending on visas and boat arrivals.
> 
> Sorry Ian, big glass of beer.


That's what you want us to believe.


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## ianrauk (11 Jun 2016)

Andy's going to be in Baku for a bit as he has to sort out an onward visa.


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## ianrauk (11 Jun 2016)

Day 83. Baku, Azerbaijan
*Winds were strong enough yesterday to blow me clean off the road, but I eventually made it into Baku last night. Will rest here and run the gauntlet of obtaining visas for Central Asia.*


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## Tanis8472 (11 Jun 2016)

How many days is it now since leaving?


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## ianrauk (11 Jun 2016)

Tanis8472 said:


> How many days is it now since leaving?


At the top of each of my updates


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## Tanis8472 (11 Jun 2016)

Bugger, didnt spot that LOL


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## iLB (12 Jun 2016)

Wet lube riding through a desert? Terrible idea? Discuss.


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## Tanis8472 (12 Jun 2016)

No lube just as bad lol.
Buggered if you do, buggered if you dont


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## srw (12 Jun 2016)

Riding through a desert - terrible idea.
HTH

More seriously - assuming we're talking sandy desert you're going to be getting loads of grindy pasty stuff all over the chain whatever lube you use. I suspect that regular, even obsessive cleaning is going to be the best defence - that, and carrying a spare chain and expecting to replace it sooner than planned.


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## ianrauk (14 Jun 2016)

Day 85 Baku, Azerbaijan 
*Switching tyres over to give the rear a well deserved rest. Trooper.*






Day 86 Baku, Azerbaijan
*Baku old town, legs struggling off the bike strolling along the F1 circuit*


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## ianrauk (15 Jun 2016)

Day 87 Baku, Azerbaijan 

*Sunset over downtown Baku and the Caspian.*


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## Tanis8472 (15 Jun 2016)

Isn't F1 there this weekend!


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## ianrauk (15 Jun 2016)

Tanis8472 said:


> Isn't F1 there this weekend!




See post # 136


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## Incontinentia Buttocks (16 Jun 2016)

This is absolutely brilliant watching his progress. I'm vicariously living out my wanderlust through him, pass on my thanks.


----------



## ianrauk (16 Jun 2016)

Incontinentia Buttocks said:


> pass on my thanks.



He reads and contributes to this thread so will see it.


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## Dayvo (16 Jun 2016)

ianrauk said:


> He reads and contributes to this thread so will see it.



Yebbut, you get all the likes!


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## ianrauk (16 Jun 2016)

Dayvo said:


> Yebbut, you get all the likes!




I don't ask for 'em...


----------



## Haitch (16 Jun 2016)

ianrauk said:


> I don't ask for 'em...



You deserve them, though. For this thread and the one-year time trial thread too.


----------



## ianrauk (17 Jun 2016)

Day 89 Baku, Azerbaijan
*First practice F1*


----------



## ianrauk (19 Jun 2016)

Day 91 Baku, Azerbaijan
*We've got a runner. Starting to get itchy feet here.*


----------



## ianrauk (20 Jun 2016)

Day 92. Baku. Azerbaijan.

*I'm a cycle tourist, get me out of here.*


----------



## hatler (20 Jun 2016)

Wahey !!


----------



## ianrauk (23 Jun 2016)

Day 94. Andy is on his way at last.

*The setting sun over the Caspian Sea last night. There was a long wait to get on the boat Tuesday night and we didn't depart from Alat until around 6am on Wednesday in the end. The Caspian was so calm and the trip was stunning. Country number 12, Kazakhstan.*


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## iLB (23 Jun 2016)

Well almost, I ended up catching the boat much faster than anticipated so my visa for Uzbekistan doesn't kick in until July 6th and its only 8 days riding max. Fortunately I think I have found somewhere to stay here for free until Monday to soak up some time, there's not much option for waiting around once I enter the Usturt desert. Gives me time to figure out how to carry 10 litres of water though.


----------



## ianrauk (23 Jun 2016)

Day 95
*Dusk on the Caspian.*


----------



## iLB (25 Jun 2016)

I'm still way off the pace but here is another update ...https://andrewcater.wordpress.com/2016/06/25/south-of-berlin/


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## ianrauk (26 Jun 2016)

Day 98
*After a few days in Aktau to prep and rearrange panniers to accommodate me carrying 10 litres of water per day (goodbye winter bibtights) tomorrow will feel like hitting the start line again. I'm keen to get moving north and east towards Beyneu and the Uzbek border, the Ustyurt desert and 35°+ heat lies in wait. They say life begins outside your comfort zone, time to find out.*


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## ianrauk (27 Jun 2016)

@iLB
Have also sent this through a couple of other forms of communication just in case.

Andy, found this info on CGOAB,
Tea/water stops on the road to Beyneu 
0km Aktau
52km Chaihana at intersection. Sells some basic groceries too.
100km Chaihana at intersection. Sells some basic groceries too.
126km Town. Didn't explore inside but large enough to be a shop and Chaihana.
148km Town. Didn't explore but I saw a shop.
168km Shetpe (town). Decent sized shops off the main road through town. 
178km Town. 1km off the road, didn't venture into it however. 
217km Asphalt stops, the fun starts here. 
238km Town. Chaikhana on the road. 
261km Chaihana at the top of the hill. 
283km Asphalt starts. 
301km Otec (town). Asphalt stops. Decent shop near railway station intown which is 5km off the road. 
334km Chaihana. 
358km Chaihana. 
408km Chaihana. 
452km Chaihana. 
485km Beyneu.

God speed mate, ride safe through the desert.


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## ianrauk (27 Jun 2016)

This is the route I am guessing through the desert from Atkau to Beyneu. No other real alternatives.


----------



## uphillstruggler (27 Jun 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Day 98
> *After a few days in Aktau to prep and rearrange panniers to accommodate me carrying 10 litres of water per day (goodbye winter bibtights) tomorrow will feel like hitting the start line again. I'm keen to get moving north and east towards Beyneu and the Uzbek border, the Ustyurt desert and 35°+ heat lies in wait. They say life begins outside your comfort zone, time to find out.*
> 
> View attachment 133102



Best of luck for this leg. I hope all goes well and look forward to hearing the next installment.


----------



## hatler (27 Jun 2016)

How long a news-update gap do we wait before sending out a search party ?


----------



## iLB (3 Jul 2016)

hatler said:


> How long a news-update gap do we wait before sending out a search party ?



Seems like WiFi is pretty thin on the ground in the desert. Arrived in Beyneu this afternoon, plan is to rest tomorrow before heading to the border with Uz on Tuesday ready to cross when they open up on Wednesday. Damn it is hot, almost too hot to sleep in the tent. 

I'm sure ian is out riding but will share the snaps later, or you can sign up to Instagram and find them yourselves - _cater_Andrew


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## ianrauk (3 Jul 2016)

Day 105 Beyneu, Mangghystaū, Kazakhstan

*Taking five out on the steppe in Mangystau, Kazakhstan - because why not when you are nailing it to do 15kph and it is hot as hell. Pretty special to tune into BBC world service and catch the final km with Cavendish snatching yellow in the TdF last night.*







*Sunset over the Ustyurt desert - Mangystau , Kazakhstan.*


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## ianrauk (3 Jul 2016)

Day 105 cont.

*The road from Shetpe to Beyneu is now almost perfect, compared to reports from a few years back saying it was atrocious but the railway that runs parallel to it is still a big deal.*


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## ianrauk (4 Jul 2016)

Day 106
*What better arena to ponder all the questions life throws at us, big and small. Tomorrow I will rejoin the desert road towards Uzbekistan, and hope to cross the border on Wednesday. More desert riding and solitude to come.*


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## growingvegetables (4 Jul 2016)

Whatever else - any chance of getting off the road for bit? If you can? I don't know where, or what there is just a few km from the road ----- but it'll be stuff of memories?

Different part of the world, different times, and I wasn't on a bike. But, in Egypt, Coptic monasteries miles from the highway; or "fragile" Bedouin communities, astonishingly tenacious in maintaining traditional ways of life, yet flexible in adapting to their changing environment; or the oases. In Yemen, celebrating Eid in a village 50 miles from the nearest highway; and rounding a corner into a valley where it had rained just a few days earlier ....... for the first time in God knows how many years, and the ground was *carpeted* in yellow flowers.


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## ianrauk (9 Jul 2016)

Hi all. On his trip through the desert, the pannier rack on Andy's bike broke. (From the weight of all the water). It's a bodge fix but he needs a new one. Has anyone got a spare rack they don't use for a 700 wheel that you could post. I will reimburse you the cost of the rack and the postage.
Cheers.
Ian.


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## GrumpyGregry (9 Jul 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Hi all. On his trip through the desert, the pannier rack on Andy's bike broke. (From the weight of all the water). It's a bodge fix but he needs a new one. Has anyone got a spare rack they don't use for a 700 wheel that you could post. I will reimburse you the cost of the rack and the postage.
> Cheers.
> Ian.


you have pm


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## uphillstruggler (10 Jul 2016)

Or hopefully get one donated, if anyone deserves good will, it's him.

I don't have one but would be willing to help with costs.


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## ianrauk (10 Jul 2016)

uphillstruggler said:


> Or hopefully get one donated, if anyone deserves good will, it's him.
> 
> I don't have one but would be willing to help with costs.




It's now sorted thanks to @Gez73


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## uphillstruggler (11 Jul 2016)

ianrauk said:


> It's now sorted thanks to @Gez73



Good job @Gez73


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## Gez73 (11 Jul 2016)

Awaiting address details but have 'secured' packaging materials from work. Better than being in my shed doing nowt! Gez


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## ianrauk (11 Jul 2016)

Gez73 said:


> Awaiting address details but have 'secured' packaging materials from work. Better than being in my shed doing nowt! Gez




Cheers again Gez.
Just waiting to hear back from the wandering wastrel with the postal address.


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## ianrauk (12 Jul 2016)

A little update.

Had a text from Andy.
"The heat is insane with stopping points a full days ride apart and no shade inbetween. Everything feels very tough."

Andy is currently heading for the city of Bukhara in Uzbekistan. He's going to find a hotel to hole up for a few days and wait for the pannier rack kindly donated and sent by @Gez73 to arrive so he can be on his way.


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## ianrauk (12 Jul 2016)

Bukhara looks an amazing place.


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## ianrauk (12 Jul 2016)

Day 113 Nukus Karakalpakistan

*There need to be some perks to these 04.45 alarms to beat the heat. *(Andy has been heading out at 5am to get 100km's by miday so then to get out of the sun)






*At the end of my first full day riding in Uzbekistan, I have never been so happy to join a queue of guys washing with a hosepipe. It was a straight 140km ride between towns without a single building or feature on the landscape to distract from the intense desert heat and head wind.*





*After a morale boosting chat with an Italian hitchiker I set off again only to find I had sheared a bolt supporting my rear rack under the load of the additional water I have been carrying. Attempts to repair it road side were futile and the as the road had again deteriorated I didn't want to risk further damage. After some waving down a car and some negotiating I had a ride to the nearest town and managed to drill out the offending bolt the next morning.*





*A ship in a very dry dock at the town of Moynaq, Karakalpakistan. Unbelievably this town was on the coast of the Aral Sea only 50 years ago and once had a thriving fishing industry. The Aral has no retreated over 150km and shrunk dramatically leaving only a graveyard of former fishing boats on the outskirts of town. *


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## Hill Wimp (12 Jul 2016)

Superb.
Brilliant thread, keep going and be safe.


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## iLB (13 Jul 2016)

Wow, this really is a beautiful online community. Thank you to all. 

Tomorrow I will head south towards Khiva and then back across the desert to Bukhara and beyond. 

Some further storm clouds on the horizon in that the already difficult Chinese visa process may have become impossible. Waiting for confirmation from a couple of visa agencies at the moment. Forcing considerations of plan B to hitchhike back to blighty, or plan C to fly to Australia. Or plan D...


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## hatler (13 Jul 2016)

Kyrgyzstan, then fly to India, then carry on pedalling ?


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## ianrauk (14 Jul 2016)

Day 115

*Ascending the switchbacks to Signagi in eastern Georgia of course I had to jump off and scramble through the undergrowth to snap this*


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## iLB (14 Jul 2016)

https://andrewcater.wordpress.com/2016/07/14/not-all-plain-sailing/


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## ianrauk (17 Jul 2016)

Day 118 Khiva, Uzbekistan.

*A morning stroll in the old city of Khiva before the sun hits full strength.*


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## ianrauk (21 Jul 2016)

Day 122 Still in Bukhara, Azerbaijan

*Pulled through another stint in the Kyzylkum desert, three days at 115km, 140km and 170km and all the while enduring heat of 40°C and above. Hopefully a good sign that the legs will have some form when I hit the mountains of Tajikistan late next week.*


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## ianrauk (22 Jul 2016)

Day 123 Still in Bukhara

*Dawn in the Kyzylkum desert, the only time the heat is vaguely tolerable. 
The stiffness and lack of sleep meant I didn't think I would make the 180km to Bukhara in one day as hoped- but after a siesta in the middle of the day I felt refreshed enough to give it a crack. 
The sunset over my right shoulder with about 30km to go. Lights flicked on and the road condition continued to decline and for the third time in two weeks I sheared a rear rack bolt. 10km from my goal I managed to flag down a truck to carry me over the line. 
Fingers crossed the new rack will arrive from the UK today, and I can find a drill to drill out the snapped bolt again. *


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## ianrauk (22 Jul 2016)

Current bodge job


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## Flying Dodo (22 Jul 2016)

Hope he ordered a cable crimp as well!


----------



## ianrauk (22 Jul 2016)

Flying Dodo said:


> Hope he ordered a cable crimp as well!


It was noticed....


----------



## Tim Hall (22 Jul 2016)

Never mind that, have ilb and Romain Bardet been seen in the same room together? He says he's riding to India. I reckon he's sprinting his way up an Alp.


Spoiler



And getting onto the podium


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## iLB (22 Jul 2016)

Flying Dodo said:


> Hope he ordered a cable crimp as well!


----------



## hatler (22 Jul 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Day 122 Still in Bukhara, Azerbaijan
> 
> *Pulled through another stint in the Kyzylkum desert, three days at 115km, 140km and 170km and all the while enduring heat of 40°C and above. Hopefully a good sign that the legs will have some form when I hit the mountains of Tajikistan late next week.*
> View attachment 135667


Uzbekistan, surely.


----------



## ianrauk (22 Jul 2016)

hatler said:


> Uzbekistan, surely.




indeed. Sorry.


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## hatler (23 Jul 2016)

I was worried for a moment that the unrelenting sun had driven him mad and he had started going round in circles.


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## iLB (25 Jul 2016)

Today the post office tell me Wednesday, would be good.


----------



## Gez73 (25 Jul 2016)

How do they know that? Gez


----------



## ianrauk (25 Jul 2016)

Fingers crossed they're right


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## Crackle (25 Jul 2016)

Gez73 said:


> How do they know that? Gez


I imagine there's only one post donkey a week around there.


----------



## ianrauk (25 Jul 2016)

Crackle said:


> I imagine there's only one post donkey a week around there.




That's probably not far off the truth. We do know that all post sent to Uzbekistan get's routed through Russia first rather then anything direct.


----------



## iLB (25 Jul 2016)

She typesld the code from the parcel into her system. They are certainly quite hot on bureaucracy and tracking here so maybe true.

Or she just wanted to be left in peace until Wednesday...


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## iLB (27 Jul 2016)

The eagle has landed.


----------



## Scoosh (27 Jul 2016)

I know you are far removed  ... but using eagles as couriers  ... way better than Amazon's proposal of drones though !  





Hope the fitting goes well and you are soon on your exciting and fascinating way again.


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## hatler (27 Jul 2016)

iLB said:


> The eagle has landed.


Result !!


----------



## ianrauk (27 Jul 2016)

A quick update from the lad himself.

The Pannier rack donated by @Gez73 has finally arrived. Though the tube of High5 tabs I sent haven't. I wasn't sure if the Uzbek/Russian customs would allow the tabs through thinking they are some sort of class A drug or something.

Anyway.. Andy is fixing the rack/bike up today so he can get on his way tomorrow. His plan is to head south east to cross the border into Tajikistan to the town of Dushanbe by Sunday. He'll spend two nights there which should give him enough time to get the special permit to ride the Pamir Highway (Road M41) which basically follows the the Tajik/Afghan border and Gunt River. On through the mountains to Murgab and then north to Osh and Bishkeke in Kyrgyzstan by the end of August. That's the plan at them moment. From there on it's a bit up in the air as he will have to wait for a Chinese and Pakistan Visa which can take 7 weeks which means he will be on the road again October/November. By that time he may not be able to get through if snow comes. So fingers crossed the Visa turns up sooner rather then later so he can be on his way.


----------



## Hill Wimp (27 Jul 2016)

ianrauk said:


> A quick update from the lad himself.
> 
> The Pannier rack donated by @Gez73 has finally arrived. Though the tube of High5 tabs I sent haven't. I wasn't sure if the Uzbek/Russian customs would allow the tabs through thinking they are some sort of class A drug or something.
> 
> Anyway.. Andy is fixing the rack/bike up today so he can get on his way tomorrow. His plan is to head south east to cross the border into Tajikistan to the town of Dushanbe by Sunday. He'll spend two nights there which should give him enough time to get the special permit to ride the Pamir Highway (Road M41) which basically follows the the Tajik/Afghan border and Gunt River. On through the mountains to Murgab and then north to Osh and Bishkeke in Kyrgyzstan by the end of August. That's the plan at them moment. From there on it's a bit up in the air as he will have to wait for a Chinese and Pakistan Visa which can take 7 weeks which means he will be on the road again October/November. By that time he may not be able to get through if snow comes. So fingers crossed the Visa turns up sooner rather then later so he can be on his way.


Blimey, everything crossed that it does. I would hate to think that after all this he was stopped by snow.


----------



## Tanis8472 (27 Jul 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Day 118 Khiva, Uzbekistan.
> 
> *A morning stroll in the old city of Khiva before the sun hits full strength.*
> 
> ...



Thats a very pretty shrine


----------



## ianrauk (27 Jul 2016)

Day 128 Still in Bukhara

*The eagle has landed. Beautiful welding on the new rear rack. The Pamir Highway is back on the menu. Time to leave this desert for good. *


----------



## iLB (27 Jul 2016)

Time for another $0.50 beer here but first another post for you https://andrewcater.wordpress.com/2016/07/27/the-rough-seas-continue-in-romania/


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## hatler (28 Jul 2016)

Can't we get some spiked tyres ready for him for when it snows ??


----------



## Aperitif (29 Jul 2016)

Having respected this thread from a distance, and followed the intrepid Andy via his words and deeds - testing and "character-building" to say the least - I thought back to days of yore...when Ian didn't like the dark and 'we' were all just getting to know each other.
I remember a kid with a torso about the size of one of my thighs, bundled and dishevelled (think a Primark clothes rack, on sale day etc) perched upon his white Spesh. He was all-in at Gatwick airport, and it needed pain chocolats and coffee to encourage him to Nirvana of Greg's delicious sausages,on the Madeira at Brighton.
I used to ride back from night rides - before deciding to form a beer club to eliminate such rash behaviour - and, on that night, we did - under the guidance of Brilliant Brian. In the revered company of @TopCat and @arallsopp "Young Andy" got his first 100 miler under his belt. Happy days! 
Go Andy!


----------



## Aperitif (29 Jul 2016)

User said:


> Was I on that ride? I seem to have a distant memory of flirting with such a cutie....


He had a brother who was driving taxis that night, Reg...he didn't stop for you! 

Edit: Ah - beaten by Elf and safe T.


----------



## GrumpyGregry (29 Jul 2016)

Aperitif said:


> Having respected this thread from a distance, and followed the intrepid Andy via his words and deeds - testing and "character-building" to say the least - I thought back to days of yore...when Ian didn't like the dark and 'we' were all just getting to know each other.
> I remember a kid with a torso about the size of one of my thighs, bundled and dishevelled (think a Primark clothes rack, on sale day etc) perched upon his white Spesh. He was all-in at Gatwick airport, and it needed pain chocolats and coffee to encourage him to Nirvana of Greg's delicious sausages,on the Madeira at Brighton.
> I used to ride back from night rides - before deciding to form a beer club to eliminate such rash behaviour - and, on that night, we did - under the guidance of Brilliant Brian. In the revered company of @TopCat and @arallsopp "Young Andy" got his first 100 miler under his belt. Happy days!
> Go Andy!


We have followed his career with interest. I remember his delightfully wicked grin at hpc the first time I turned up on something other than my old, since sold, EBC Tourer. "That looks much faster than that mountain bike thing you had last time" he said. He was right. It, the black 'un, that took me from London to John O'Groats has since been cannibalised to build the grey 'un. Which is even quicker! I think he would be pleased.

The boy was a revelation, the man is an inspiration.

And of course he is a fellow roarer leet owner.


----------



## Aperitif (29 Jul 2016)

User said:


> Not sure if it was the taxi one or the one before....


Actually, it may have been the one before. Claudine was present and correct at taxi playtime I think.
In those days, no Uber, alleys, 'All (up)' (Apologies, Olaf )





A shocked youngster on realising she was in the presence of The Great User...in the middle of the night!


----------



## Jody (29 Jul 2016)

Absolutely awe inspiring thread @iLB and thanks for keeping it updated @ianrauk. I have been reading this thread from the start and it just keeps getting better. At first I thought iLB was a little crazy for setting off on a ride like this but you have some great motivation and perseverance. .

Well done and keep spinning. I really hope you make your goal.


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## ianrauk (5 Aug 2016)

Day 137.. finally an update Dushanbe, Tajikistan.

After receiving and fitting the new pannier rack. Andy was off... however without the tube of hydration tabs I sent. They may have turned up after, they may have not.
Anyway.. Andy set of on the 30th for Dushanbe, Tajikistan. He had to skidaddle to get to the crossing before his Visa ran out. The first day he managed 130km, in his own works "On empty stomach, tank is empty and stomach not happy".
The next day he only managed 15km before turning around after "throwing up a couple of times".. The stomach bug had hit hard. After resting up for a couple of days he was off, once again heading for Dushanbe.

Text from the lad earlier this week. "Got to Greenhouse Hostel in Dushanbe a couple of hours ago. Still feel terrible. Leaving Guzar on Tuesday but with the Visa running out today there is no choice. Got a lot of calories to catch up on now"

He even managed to send me a nice pic.. good lad he is





So.. he's back on track.
This just in.

Dushanbe, Tajikistan.
*After weeks of long, flat, straight miles through the desert Uzbekistan saved the best til last when it finally unveiled this Martian landscape. It is truely a country of stark contrasts. After being hit by another stomach bug at the weekend I was faced with a final scramble to enter Tajikistan, just about making it on the day my visa ran out. Will be catching up on some calories and resting up in Dushanbe whilst awaiting my GBAO permit for the Pamir Highway. *


----------



## iLB (5 Aug 2016)

I can certainly recommend not eating for three days, followed by three hilly days of riding where you mostly eat boiled eggs and bread as a rapid weight loss method. 

Despite some hilarious incompetence where they filled out two permits with my derails instead of one for me and one for a Czech friend the permit to go to the Pamir and the Wakhan valley in the border with Afghanistan is now sorted. 

These remote mountains are really what I have been dreaming of.


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## iLB (6 Aug 2016)

Also if anyone has any outside the box thinking on dealing with hand pain on the bike I am all ears. 

As far as Kazakhstan I had no problems but with the bad roads I start to get inflammation in my palms and wrists despite frequently changing hand position. And now I get pins and needles after just 15 minutes of riding, I'm putting some extra padding on the tops now but if you another idea?


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## Tanis8472 (6 Aug 2016)

Ride no handed 

Sounds like the dreaded nerve problems


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## Dayvo (6 Aug 2016)

On my short 200-miler I had this zipped tied on my bars, about six inches either side of the stem.

Plumber's lagging. It was very effective.


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## iLB (6 Aug 2016)

Dayvo said:


> On my short 200-miler I had this zipped tied on my bars, about six inches either side of the stem.
> 
> Plumber's lagging. It was very effective.
> 
> View attachment 138090



I didn't know there was such a thing as a short 200 miler. I have found something similar at a bicycle stall in the bazaar here and have followed it up with a layer of inner tube. Hopefully ian can provide snaps later on. 

Apart from rotating the bars there is no scope to raise the position, I already have the opposite of a slammed stem.


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## Dayvo (6 Aug 2016)

iLB said:


> I didn't know there was such a thing as a short 200 miler.



Well, no, not really, but in comparison to the distances you're doing, mine was just a ride in the park.

Maybe some sponges could be cut up and used:





Continued good luck on this epic ride.


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## ianrauk (6 Aug 2016)

..and the solution.. hopefully.






With bar tape covering


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## Brains (7 Aug 2016)

bubblewrap ?


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## PaulSecteur (8 Aug 2016)

ianrauk said:


> ..and the solution.. hopefully.
> 
> View attachment 138135
> 
> ...



Surely a future GCN hack/ bodge of the week!


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## Ajax Bay (9 Aug 2016)

If it doesn't adversely affect your position otherwise eg comfort of reach, moving the saddle back (very slightly) will reduce the weight put through the arms/wrists and hands. The padding you've put on would mean the reach to the bars is the same (or less).

@e-rider said: ↑
the further forward the saddle goes, the more weight is put through the arms/wrists and hands.
@cyberknight said: ↑
Here is an interesting read
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/05/se at-set-back-for-road-bikes/.


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## ianrauk (9 Aug 2016)

Day 141 Dushanbe, Tajikistan

*It was a quest all of its own to track down a copy of this map yesterday in Dushanbe, via the Swiss Consulate and the UN we eventually found it. Now that the bicycle and stomach are in as good shape as they can be I can ship out of the Greenhouse hostel in the morning. 
Between the M41 and the Wakhan Valley routes I've never heard two roads cause so much contention between cyclists and over landers. I can't wait to see what all the fuss is about. *






Greenhouse Hostel





The M41 Highway through Tajikistan. Andy will be heading to Osh in Kyrgyzstan


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## GrumpyGregry (9 Aug 2016)

Interesting solution to a horrid problem. Saddle appears to be somewhat higher than the bars. I'd want it at least as high as the saddle for day-in-day-out rough stuff. Can we airlift our hero a highrise stem, or one of those wackey steerer extenders. At least he doesn't have one of those godawful Jamis proprietory kludge steerer stem combos that my 'Rora came with.


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## iLB (9 Aug 2016)

GrumpyGregry said:


> Interesting solution to a horrid problem. Saddle appears to be somewhat higher than the bars. I'd want it at least as high as the saddle for day-in-day-out rough stuff. Can we airlift our hero a highrise stem, or one of those wackey steerer extenders. At least he doesn't have one of those godawful Jamis proprietory kludge steerer stem combos that my 'Rora came with.



Bars and saddle are pretty much the same height, but the weird Jamis stem lasted all of ten minutes once it was built up.


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## GrumpyGregry (9 Aug 2016)

iLB said:


> Bars and saddle are pretty much the same height, but the weird Jamis stem lasted all of *ten minutes* once it was built up.


What the hell took you so long?

Higher bars would get more of your weight on your 'arris.


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## ianrauk (17 Aug 2016)

Day 149 - Khorog, Tajikistan

Andy's not having much luck at the moment.

Here's the state of his wheel at the moment, cracked rim in several placed. He has no choice but to keep riding on it for the moment until he get's to civilisation. Thoughts anyone?


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## summerdays (17 Aug 2016)

Not that I have any suggestions, but presumably the rear wheel?


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## ianrauk (17 Aug 2016)

User said:


> What is likely to be available in the next bit of civilisation? It looks as though he is currently running 700c? If so, as he is using disk brakes, I would consider a rebuild with 26" MTB size rim and take the opportunity to fit flatter tyres.




It's a 700. Thing is Adrian, Khorog is the biggest town for the foreseeable future. So needs a fix here. Though it has a population of 30,000, it has no dedicated bike shops or mechanics. This is going to be a tough fix. He's off to the market to ask around.


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## ianrauk (17 Aug 2016)

Would a temporary weld do it?


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## ianrauk (17 Aug 2016)

User said:


> Welding aluminium is way more specialist than welding steel.




Yeah i guessed so.


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## ianrauk (17 Aug 2016)

User said:


> Are there bicycles there? If so, what size rims and tyres do they use?




Looking at the web, mainly old Soviet and Chinese steel.
Hopefully Andy will find something/someone in the market that could help.


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## iLB (17 Aug 2016)

Depending on who you ask the next section of road (Wakhan Valley route not m41)is at least as bad, if not worse, as the last 400km which was basically off road with huge rocks everywhere. 

The other issue is that I have to be out of the country by the 28th which is very tight schedule with the passes that are coming, 4000m and higher. So barring a miracle tomorrow I won't be able to rebuild on 26" rims in Tajikistan at least. 

The good news is there should be beer tonight.


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## Crackle (17 Aug 2016)

My only immediate thought is to de-tension that spoke at the same time taking up some tension in the surrounding spokes to compensate. A delicate operation and I'm not sure of the consequences for the rest of the wheels solidity but you don't want that crack spreading.


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## iLB (17 Aug 2016)

User said:


> Can you source the components for a wheel build and take them with you?



Possibly, but if all goes to hell I will have to take a ride as far as Osh... Which has a decent bazaar as far as I know. 

The rim is cracked in 6 to 8 places so simply detensioning one spoke won't work.


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## Crackle (17 Aug 2016)

User said:


> How much weight could you shed?


or re-distribute.


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## Crackle (17 Aug 2016)

I'm wondering if you can use a strong epoxy, if available, to spread on the cracks.


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## Tanis8472 (17 Aug 2016)

Fibreglass maybe


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## Crackle (17 Aug 2016)

Something that will flex, yes.


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## fossyant (17 Aug 2016)

What's Amazon's delivery time there 
That's a very poorly rim.


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## theclaud (17 Aug 2016)

ianrauk said:


> Day 149 - Khorog, Tajikistan
> 
> Andy's not having much luck at the moment.
> 
> ...



Eeek.


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## slowmotion (17 Aug 2016)

Tanis8472 said:


> Fibreglass maybe


That would be my suggestion. Abrade the rim on the outside and put on a woven tape and polyester resin. It won't look neat but who cares?

Edit: I think you need something fairly rigid to stop the stress cracks growing.


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## macp (17 Aug 2016)

Read the whole thread and loved it but its getting tense now. Really hoping for some kind of result with the wheel. The very very best of luck & regards to you.


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## iLB (18 Aug 2016)

Wisdom may dictate that I take the more traffic heavy main road, to increase the chance of rescue as and when the rim capitulates. 

Interestingly a Swiss guy staying at a the same hostel has the same rim in 26" flavour, with reinforced eyelets, but has also cracked it in several places.


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## uphillstruggler (18 Aug 2016)

@iLB @ianrauk 

it doesn't help your time critical situation but is it worth contacting the manufacturer and offering to send it back for research - they may offer to hep out as a result. or at least give you a steer as to where to get one

if you let me know, ill send an email on your behalf or try to contact them via telephone.


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## iLB (18 Aug 2016)

uphillstruggler said:


> @iLB @ianrauk
> 
> it doesn't help your time critical situation but is it worth contacting the manufacturer and offering to send it back for research - they may offer to hep out as a result. or at least give you a steer as to where to get one
> 
> if you let me know, ill send an email on your behalf or try to contact them via telephone.



Thanks for the offer, I was working at Evans prior to this so I'm in touch with my old store and they are contacting Mavic for me.


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## uphillstruggler (18 Aug 2016)

iLB said:


> Thanks for the offer, I was working at Evans prior to this so I'm in touch with my old store and they are contacting Mavic for me.



No problem, best of luck with sourcing the replacement


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## slowmotion (18 Aug 2016)

It might be worth "stop-drilling" a small (say 2mm) hole at the end of the each stress crack. This helps prevent the cracks from growing longer and longer because the stress is spread out over a much larger area. It's a technique widely used in the repair of aluminium boat hulls and plane skins. It won't fix the problem but it should buy you some time.
http://www.askbob.aero/content/cracks-aircraft-structures


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## ianrauk (19 Aug 2016)

Day 151. Khorog, Tajikistan

*Formed an on the road alliance with a Swedish couple and Dutch dude as we battled the appalling road conditions on the first stretch of the M41 - here they are descending from the 3252m Saghir Dasht pass after we spent the night camped at 2500m.

This descent would prove especially brutal for my bicycle- snapping one of the welds on my new rear rack and also causing multiple stress fractures to appear in the rear rim. I'm hoping it holds out as far as Bishkek. *


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## summerdays (19 Aug 2016)

Are they having similar problems with their bikes?


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## Gez73 (19 Aug 2016)




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## uphillstruggler (19 Aug 2016)

This has got to be a film. It's too tense.

Vinny Jones in the lead?


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## srw (20 Aug 2016)

uphillstruggler said:


> This has got to be a film. It's too tense.
> 
> Vinny Jones in the lead?


Yes, the resemblance is uncanny.

Vinnie:





@iLB:


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## Nigeyy (23 Aug 2016)

Just found this thread, terrific. Hope the wheel and rack get sorted out. I think everyone has covered what might be possible: weight redistribution or weight reduction of equipment, epoxy glue, re tensioning spokes, etc. Another option* may be to relace the front rim to the back, and the back rim to front as the front wheel is taking less weight, but then again, not sure I'd want a front wheel to fail (would rather the rear, thanks). Since he does have disk brakes at least in a pinch he may be able to lace up a different rim or even different rim size (assuming the right spoke length.). That's tough one, here's hoping.....

*assuming he has the ability to remove the cassette and has a spoke wrench


Best of luck!


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## Nigeyy (23 Aug 2016)

Yeah, got to say I wouldn't want to do it, and the effort would be quite a bit! Let's hope he makes it to a place where he can get something sorted out.



User said:


> I think the really really not wanting the front to fail overrides the reduction in likelihood of a failure.


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## ianrauk (23 Aug 2016)

I messaged the lad today for an update but no reply so far.


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## User10571 (24 Aug 2016)

Glad you are doing this, Ian.
Thanks


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## Nigeyy (24 Aug 2016)

Likewise, thanks Ian



User10571 said:


> Glad you are doing this, Ian.
> Thanks


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## ianrauk (25 Aug 2016)

Still no news so I am hoping (guessing) that he's got a fix and is on his way through the mountains.


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## iLB (27 Aug 2016)

Well, the good news is I made it to Osh in Kyrgyzstan. Less good news is that it wasn't all pedal powered.


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## Scoosh (27 Aug 2016)

iLB said:


> Less good news is that it wasn't all pedal powered.


That's ok - you can always go back and fill in the 'missed cycling' bit.


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## ianrauk (28 Aug 2016)

*Whakhan Corridor,* Northeastern Afghanistan.

*The horns of the legendary Marco Polo sheep frequently decorated the road side...sadly as close as I would be getting to one on this trip. *




*
Some of the riders I met coming in the opposite direction seemed to be on the verge of tears when recounting their experiences, but with lunch stops like this you can maintain some sanity between all the uphill pushes and constant restarts as the front wheel loses traction time after time. *





*Despite the majority of the opening 100k of the Wakhan Valley being on semi decent tarmac it didn't take long for the surface to deteriorate significantly. Thus making photo opportunities ever more appealing versus battling the washboard roads and sand. *


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## ianrauk (1 Sep 2016)

*Sadly my optimistic schedule of 4 days to make it through to the Kyrgyz border proved far to ambitious... The village of Alichur greeted me with the warm embrace of a fever for two nights in a row, rendering me so weak I could barely walk to the outside toilet. 
Forced to concede defeat, I waited 6 hours to hitch in an old Russian truck to Murghab...with the bicycle and gear rolling around in the roar Yak hides that were in the back. Before anxiously strapping the bike to the top of a 4x4 to make the border on time. Further inspection revealed that the carnage of the Wakhan had cracked 80% of the welds on the rear rack as well, leaving the poor Jamis in a sorry state. *


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## rich p (1 Sep 2016)

Oh bugger


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## iLB (2 Sep 2016)

Que sera , sera. 

I was just very happy to have made it through the Wakhan valley, you can't count on everything going to plan.


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Sep 2016)

sometimes bailing to a motor is the smart thing to so.

this was one of those times.


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Sep 2016)

slowmotion said:


> It might be worth "stop-drilling" a small (say 2mm) hole at the end of the each stress crack. This helps prevent the cracks from growing longer and longer because the stress is spread out over a much larger area. It's a technique widely used in the repair of aluminium boat hulls and plane skins. It won't fix the problem but it should buy you some time.
> http://www.askbob.aero/content/cracks-aircraft-structures


I was going to suggest 'stop drilling'. I'd pull the tyre and tube and tape off and see if the cracks are present on the inside of the rim...


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## ianrauk (2 Sep 2016)

GrumpyGregry said:


> I was going to suggest 'stop drilling'. I'd pull the tyre and tube and tape off and see if the cracks are present on the inside of the rim...




The rim is too far gone. There's at least 21 cracks found.


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Sep 2016)

ianrauk said:


> The rim is too far gone. There's at least 21 cracks found.


Presumably all on drive side spokes?


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## iLB (2 Sep 2016)

GrumpyGregry said:


> Presumably all on drive side spokes?



The thoroughness of my inspections has not stretched to that degree of accuracy as yet.


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Sep 2016)

iLB said:


> The thoroughness of my inspections has not stretched to that degree of accuracy as yet.


As a 'clydesdale' (fat bloke) it is ALWAYS driveside spokes that crack the rims on my mtbs.


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## GrumpyGregry (2 Sep 2016)

User said:


> But probably sufficient to notice that the wheel doesn't have 42 or more spokes.


Two cracks per nipple. Do keep up.


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## hatler (8 Sep 2016)

It's gone very quiet.


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## ianrauk (9 Sep 2016)

I sent him a message couple of days back. WaitinG for a reply.


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## Aperitif (9 Sep 2016)

hatler said:


> It's gone very quiet.


Andy is sitting in a hotel watching The Vuelta I expect...he posted on that thread on Wednesday morning. 'i Love Beds'


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## ianrauk (9 Sep 2016)

Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan

*Cassette upcycling = mokka pot joy. Coffee is vital for all of life's big decisions.*


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## ianrauk (9 Sep 2016)

*Fro back to the chaos unfolding in Khorog Bazaar. *


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## ianrauk (9 Sep 2016)

More news coming from the lad himself....


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## Scoosh (9 Sep 2016)

User13710 said:


> I'm going to steal that idea


Me too !  It's so obvious ... once you see it !


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## Blue Hills (15 Sep 2016)

User13710 said:


> I'm going to steal that idea


referring to the apparent bodge on the handle I assume. I'm blind/stupid - what is it?


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## ianrauk (15 Sep 2016)

Blue Hills said:


> referring to the apparent bodge on the handle I assume. I'm blind/stupid - what is it?




The pot is sitting on a gear cog.


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## Blue Hills (15 Sep 2016)

ianrauk said:


> The pot is sitting on a gear cog.


ah, yes freally blind of me - good idea - normally you have to use a trivett easiest found in Italy. Still wondering about the handle fix though.


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## summerdays (15 Sep 2016)

What's the latest news?


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## ianrauk (15 Sep 2016)

summerdays said:


> What's the latest news?




News coming soon.


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## arallsopp (23 Sep 2016)

*One more expensive sticker for the collection; not the one I thought I would be stressing over - but the right one nonetheless. As a good friend once said "time to let the train take the strain ". Sorry India, I'm heading west.*

*




*

*#thanksvlad #cycle #touring #travel*
*#almaty #moscow #kiev #warsaw #berlin#london #train #overland*


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## ianrauk (23 Sep 2016)

Thanks Mr Arallsopp for updating the thread. I've been in sunnier climes the last week cycling up and down mountains. Now back to catching up with stuff.


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## fossyant (23 Sep 2016)

Oh heck, is he coming back.


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## iLB (24 Sep 2016)

Some things in life won't wait forever.

Anyone recommend bike friendly accommodation in Moscow?


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## iLB (5 Oct 2016)

Hello, hello... 

Well I arrived back in London last night, and good grief the trains were delayed. Not a problem I encountered on Kazakh, Russian, Ukrainian or Polish railways. Can we import some of their plainly excellent staff? 

Unfortunately there is a mountain of paper work and other things vying for my attention already, but I do intend to finish writing about the ride. Bit by bit.


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## ianrauk (5 Oct 2016)

iLB said:


> Hello, hello...
> 
> Well I arrived back in London last night, and good grief the trains were delayed. Not a problem I encountered on Kazakh, Russian, Ukrainian or Polish railways. Can we import some of their plainly excellent staff?
> 
> Unfortunately there is a mountain of paper work and other things vying for my attention already, but I do intend to finish writing about the ride. Bit by bit.




In the meantime.. make time for a beer one evening this week.


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## uphillstruggler (5 Oct 2016)

its a bit of a shock when you come back to the 'worlds greatest country' and nothing works properly. and it costs a fortune to be let down.

glad you made it back, congratulations on an epic trip.


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## iLB (5 Oct 2016)

Also this ... https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/wtd-a-new-helmet.208250/#post-4497876


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