# Doing up a Dawes Galaxy (Shimano bits advice)



## Jugular (30 Apr 2010)

I have an old Dawes, and I mean old, like 30 years or something, that's ancient I'm sure of it. People tell me I should bin it, but I like it, and it aint all bad surely.

I'm planning on buying some Paul Hewitt wheels and getting the frame renovated and repainted by Ellis Briggs then I'm going to have to refit the bike with some decent components. Unfortunately the older kit on it has seen better days. So, I figure instead of scrabbling around for all the right kit to bring it back to it's heyday, I'll drag it kicking and screaming into 2010 and all that entails in terms of a new drivetrain. So, (don't worry I'll get to the point eventually, just be patient) what are my options and what on earth do all those Shimano codes and bits mean (Tiagra, Ultegra, Deore, XT LX QR FP YU, yeah ok I made some up)?

What do I need for touring and the odd blast through the countryside?


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## ComedyPilot (30 Apr 2010)

Jugular said:


> I have an old Dawes, and I mean old, like 30 years or something, that's ancient I'm sure of it. *People tell me I should bin it, but I like it, and it aint all bad surely.*
> 
> I'm planning on buying some Paul Hewitt wheels and getting the frame renovated and repainted by Ellis Briggs then I'm going to have to refit the bike with some decent components. Unfortunately the older kit on it has seen better days. So, I figure instead of scrabbling around for all the right kit to bring it back to it's heyday, I'll drag it kicking and screaming into 2010 and all that entails in terms of a new drivetrain. So, (don't worry I'll get to the point eventually, just be patient) what are my options and what on earth do all those Shimano codes and bits mean (Tiagra, Ultegra, Deore, XT LX QR FP YU, yeah ok I made some up)?
> 
> What do I need for touring and the odd blast through the countryside?



If you take their advice then, a) you're crackers, and  I will drive over the pennines to get it out of the skip.


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## Anthony (1 May 2010)

Jugular said:


> I have an old Dawes, and I mean old, like 30 years or something, that's ancient I'm sure of it. People tell me I should bin it, but I like it, and it aint all bad surely.
> 
> I'm planning on buying some Paul Hewitt wheels and getting the frame renovated and repainted by Ellis Briggs then I'm going to have to refit the bike with some decent components. Unfortunately the older kit on it has seen better days. So, I figure instead of scrabbling around for all the right kit to bring it back to it's heyday, I'll drag it kicking and screaming into 2010 and all that entails in terms of a new drivetrain. So, (don't worry I'll get to the point eventually, just be patient) *what are my options and what on earth do all those Shimano codes and bits mean (Tiagra, Ultegra, Deore, XT LX *QR FP YU, yeah ok I made some up)?
> 
> What do I need for touring and the odd blast through the countryside?



For a touring set up I would suggest you have two options. A Shimano Deore set would be a good/reliable choice and not break the bank. Modern Galaxys come with many deore components. If you've got a bit more money to splash then you could upgrade to the better Shimano Deore XT parts.


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## rich p (1 May 2010)

Have you added up the cost of replacing everything including a respray compared with a new or secondhand new one? Components can come in pretty pricily these days. Also check that there is no rust about to scupper it!


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## Gerry Attrick (1 May 2010)

Here is some information about the hierarchy of Shimano kit:

MOUNTAIN BIKES
SIS 5SPEED/6SP/7SP.
ALTUS 7SP.
ACERA 7SP/8SP.
The above (3) are mainly used on bikes that are used on weekends,bike path riding and some commuting bikes.
ALIVO 7SP/8SP.
DEORE 9sp.
These (2) are used a lot by people who commute most days as well as for bikes which are ridden on weekends. This componentry is suitable for off road use and is generally a good starting point for racing components.
DEORE LX 9SP.
LX is a very good quality component which is well weighted and designed. LX is mainly used for serious recreation and racing. As well as for those people who want a very stable and strong commuting bike.
DEORE XT 9SP.
XT is once again a very smooth and reliable group set, used on many racebikes as well as top end town bikes. XT is remarkably strong and very durable as well as being a delight to use.2004 saw a big change in LX when the hollow tech 2 crank set was introduced, as well as the introduction of the rapid shift levers
DEORE XTR 9SP.
XTR is predominately used on top end race bikes. It is very light and smooth, however it does require some maintenance as it is such a precision made component.XTR also has the Hollow tech 2 crank set with an awesome disc brake and wheel set being available
The above groupsets are how we in the bicycle industry group the qualities of parts, meaning the parts on the bike such as gears , brakes, hubs, cranks etc., to a bike. For example a bicycle with an Alloy frame and ALIVO components will vary in price from $500 -$700 depending on the other components such as rims, handle bars, seats and forks. What we are trying to show you is that there is a method to the madness.
ROAD BIKES.
SIS.
SORA.
SIS is not found on many road bikes now.However Sora is extremely popular. Many general commuting and entry level road bikes will be Sora equipped. Sora has STI levers and a very reliable gear and braking system, without being to pricey. Sora is a 8sp group set and will come on bicyles ranged between $700-$1200.
Tiagra.
Tiagra is the first road group set that is 9sp. Tiagra is used a lot by road cyclists that want the reliablity and smoothness of 9sp without the price tag.
105.
This is a very commonly used component set a lot of top road bikes and training bikes will be equipped with 105 as it is exceptionally smooth in its changes and a very durable and reliable group set. 105 is a 9 or 10sp group set and its body predominantly made of alloy, thus making it very light.People who want good stuff that will last this is it.
ULTEGRA.
Once again used a lot for top end racing. Not often used for training bikes, however it is durable enough to do so. Very smooth and very light on its actions. This means changes with little effort.
DURA ACE.
The top of the line. Fairly expensive for the general rider, but verrrrrry nice.Dura Ace has been converted into a 10sp system, with massive changes to the levers and crank sets, both so much smoother and lighter to use.Ride it and you will understand.
MOUNTAIN BIKES
SIS 5SPEED/6SP/7SP.
ALTUS 7SP.
ACERA 7SP/8SP.
The above (3) are mainly used on bikes that are used on weekends,bike path riding and some commuting bikes.
ALIVO 7SP/8SP.
DEORE 9sp.
These (2) are used a lot by people who commute most days as well as for bikes which are ridden on weekends. This componentry is suitable for off road use and is generally a good starting point for racing components.
DEORE LX 9SP.
LX is a very good quality component which is well weighted and designed. LX is mainly used for serious recreation and racing. As well as for those people who want a very stable and strong commuting bike.
DEORE XT 9SP.
XT is once again a very smooth and reliable group set, used on many racebikes as well as top end town bikes. XT is remarkably strong and very durable as well as being a delight to use.2004 saw a big change in LX when the hollow tech 2 crank set was introduced, as well as the introduction of the rapid shift levers
DEORE XTR 9SP.
XTR is predominately used on top end race bikes. It is very light and smooth, however it does require some maintenance as it is such a precision made component.XTR also has the Hollow tech 2 crank set with an awesome disc brake and wheel set being available
The above groupsets are how we in the bicycle industry group the qualities of parts, meaning the parts on the bike such as gears , brakes, hubs, cranks etc., to a bike. For example a bicycle with an Alloy frame and ALIVO components will vary in price from $500 -$700 depending on the other components such as rims, handle bars, seats and forks. What we are trying to show you is that there is a method to the madness.
ROAD BIKES.
SIS.
SORA.
SIS is not found on many road bikes now.However Sora is extremely popular. Many general commuting and entry level road bikes will be Sora equipped. Sora has STI levers and a very reliable gear and braking system, without being to pricey. Sora is a 8sp group set and will come on bicyles ranged between $700-$1200.
Tiagra.
Tiagra is the first road group set that is 9sp. Tiagra is used a lot by road cyclists that want the reliablity and smoothness of 9sp without the price tag.
105.
This is a very commonly used component set a lot of top road bikes and training bikes will be equipped with 105 as it is exceptionally smooth in its changes and a very durable and reliable group set. 105 is a 9 or 10sp group set and its body predominantly made of alloy, thus making it very light.People who want good stuff that will last this is it.
ULTEGRA.
Once again used a lot for top end racing. Not often used for training bikes, however it is durable enough to do so. Very smooth and very light on its actions. This means changes with little effort.
DURA ACE.
The top of the line. Fairly expensive for the general rider, but verrrrrry nice.Dura Ace has been converted into a 10sp system, with massive changes to the levers and crank sets, both so much smoother and lighter to use.Ride it and you will understand.


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## snorri (1 May 2010)

Jugular said:


> What do I need for touring and the odd blast through the countryside?


Rohloff.
I got thoroughly fed up with the vast range of Shimano components and their short lived efficiency. The crunch came in Germany when once again my tour was interupted by a worn out component. The bike shop mechanic approached me with a worrying look saying he had no direct replacement, but had another which would be cheaper and more longlasting, would that be ok for me? Well of coure it would, but why had a previous mechanic fitted an expensive short lived componment? 
Fed up with the whole Shimano thing I resolved to fit a Rohloff hub and have never looked back.
In a strange sort of way I do miss the camaraderie of the people you meet in foreign bicycle shops, I'll get over that though.


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## aberal (1 May 2010)

Jugular said:


> I have an old Dawes, and I mean old, like 30 years or something, that's ancient I'm sure of it. People tell me I should bin it, but I like it, and it aint all bad surely.



The problem with old frames isn't necessarily visible external rust but internal rust within the tubes which can weaken the frame and blow it from inside out. I'm not saying that that is necessarily going to be the case, but it's best to be aware of it as a potential problem. Also, you might be surprised once you cost all the components how little extra money you would need to get yourself a brand new Galaxy.


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## Arch (1 May 2010)

snorri said:


> In a strange sort of way I do miss the camaraderie of the people you meet in foreign bicycle shops, I'll get over that though.



But you can still go into the shops. You'll just end up with a very exotic bell collection.


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## Arch (1 May 2010)

Oh, and I recently rebuilt my Galaxy, and spent minimal amounts - I think £100-150 all in, that included a new rack, crankset, brakes and levers and other odds and ends. Ok, I've not used it a lot yet, so I don't know about the longevity, but I reckon you needn't break the bank. Also, don't worry about it being period, OR being bang up to date. Choose the sort of things you get on with best.


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## Rhythm Thief (1 May 2010)

I rebuilt my old Galaxy - including a very expensive respray by George Longstaff - about twelve years ago. I spent waaaay more than it was actually worth, about £400 all in, but it's been a great bike and I'd do the same again.


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## snorri (1 May 2010)

Arch said:


> But you can still go into the shops. You'll just end up with a very exotic bell collection.


You think you are joking? A new bell is just what I took home from my last summer tour.


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## Arch (1 May 2010)

snorri said:


> You think you are joking? A new bell is just what I took home from my last summer tour.



And it's one of the two things I brought back from the SPEZI show! I very neat little revolving one, you twist the grippy bit round the edge for a constant brrrring-bringg-brinng. And it's clear plastic, so you can see the workings.

From Manybells.

http://www.manybells-server.com/product_info.php?products_id=41

That and a water bottle with Ganesh on it.

There were a couple of guys on the bus trip who went home with 5 or 6 different bells!


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## Arch (1 May 2010)

Well, I've just looked Ganesh up on Wiki (I'll admit, I bought it for the elephant image), and I find he is revered as 'a remover of obstacles'. What more could a cyclist need?


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## loz (2 May 2010)

the good thing about building a frame up yourself is that you're forced to understand how to setup the various components (useful for when you need to fettle in the future) and which components are compatible (eg you need to consider rear drop out spacing before buying wheels etc). Buying a new bike means you lose the need for this knowledge - which is fine until you need to fix something on the road


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## PpPete (2 May 2010)

loz said:


> the good thing about building a frame up yourself is that you're forced to understand how to setup the various components (useful for when you need to fettle in the future) and which components are compatible (eg you need to consider rear drop out spacing before buying wheels etc). Buying a new bike means you lose the need for this knowledge - which is fine until you need to fix something on the road



Good advice.

FWIW - My Galaxy cost £370 new in 1988. I've spent nearly £400 putting modern wheels & componentry on it. It's now roughly at spec level between that of a new Super Galaxy and a new Ultra Galaxy (at £1700), and it's light too, because I've used road bits rather than MTB.


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## loz (2 May 2010)

porkypete said:


> Good advice.



yes, but i guess there are downsides... like when I built up a bike for the first time i ignored the manual for the front derailleur - ended up with a wonky tube due to over tightening!


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## Jugular (2 May 2010)

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Very useful. I'm still unsure of what all the options are but at least the funny Shimano names are a bit more clear. 
So between deore/deore XT and Taigra/105 sets which would people suggest. What is the difference there? Is it weight, gear range or durability?

I'm sure as I move through the process I'll have a number of other questions to ask. First and foremost I'm going to check with Paul Hewitt whether it's possible to get it to fit me. If not, it's going on ebay unfortunately. The frame is their largest size at 25.5 inches however with the quill stem and max seatpost height I'm unsure if it's sufficient as I'm 6'4".


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## PpPete (3 May 2010)

Very few frame builders will go bigger than 25" on conventional frames. You start to run into rigidity problems if you go bigger than that.

As for the choice between MTB & Road.... depends on what gearing you want.
If you plan to do any loaded touring or big hills, or occasional forays away from the tarmac, you'll be looking at 11-32 or 11-34 cassettes & triple front rings so MTB mechs are more suitable. 
Road cassettes only go up to 11-25 (cheap) or 11-27(expensive) so you have a narrower range of gears but can keep you cadence efficient.
MTB gearing doesnt make it unsuitable for road use though, and it's probably more durable, if a little heavier.


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## Jugular (3 May 2010)

Thanks porkypete, that's really helpful. I guess I should have worked that out really


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## willem (4 May 2010)

This operation does not make sense in my view. First, you are not even sure if the bike will fit you properly. From what I understand, it may well be too small. Fit, however, is everything.
Second, modernizing a middle of the road frame does not make any financial sense. You pay so much more for parts that you quickly end up with a bike that costs more than a new one. This is all the more so when the rear triangle will have to be reset. Bikes like this Galaxy have 120 or 126 mm rear spacing. Modern road bikes have 130 mm wide rear hub spacing, and modern touring and mtb bikes 135 mm. So that means that the frame needs to be widened by 10-16 mm. Also, this is almost certainly a bike for 27 inch (etrto 630 mm) wheels rather than the modern etrto 622 standard. You can still get rims and tyres for 27 inch, but the choice is now limited. If you replace the wheels with modern ones you will propbably need new brakes with a deeper drop, and if you have cantilever brakes the studs will need to be repositioned.
What you could do, but only if the bike fits properly, is to restore it with new period parts. Just replace the few parts that need to be replaced. You may need to hunt for a new rear hub in the required spacing. Alternatively, it may be possible to rebuild the hubs. I am not sure about your crankset. With luck it only needs new chainrings, and perhaps a new bottom bracket. Downtube shifters last forever, and derailleurs often live a long time too. If not, a modern one will work just fine with old friction shifters. The front mech is often in better shape than the rear, and I hope that it is, as modern ones do not always have the clearance for older drive trains and frames. But there is a lot of new old stock on ebay.
Willem


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## Jugular (4 May 2010)

Thanks willem, you make some good points. I'm 70% sure that a longer seat tube (the previous one was cut down to save weight I presume) will alleviate the fit problems, though I'll then need to check if the reach to the handlebars is comfortable. Having said that it's a compact frame and I don't currently feel stretched so it should fit.

I'm sure some people would argue that old galaxy frames are not middle of the road as it's handbuilt and it is 531 tubing, it's certainly as good as a new galaxy frame. Having done a quick estimation with Shimano 105 parts I think I could renovate the bike to a high standard for £800 (including £400 for handbuilt wheels). This would still be cheaper than a new Galaxy. With new brakes and a renovation already on the cards moving the studs would cost £10 which is not going to break tha bank. Resetting the rear triangle would also only cost a small fee.

All of this being the case you make a good point about just replacing some parts. The failing of the Galaxy currently is that the dual pivot brakes are a nightmare to adjust, the seatpost needs replacing, it only has 10 gears and the rear derailleur spring has given up. The bottom bracket is in reasonable nick as are the chain rings (it's barely been ridden since original purchase). I would like to replace the wheels as modern hubs are just so much more efficient and repainting the bike would really protect it long-term, at which point the chainrings will need replacing and the rear derailleur needs replacing anyway, so I may as well replace the whole drivetrain.

My first thought was to turn this into a fixed wheel bike, you're making me think that even that would be a big task.

Maybe a Hewitt Cheviot is on the cards after all.


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## loz (4 May 2010)

although I was harping on earlier about the educational aspect of building up a frame I think £800 would be too much to spend. For that you could get a hell of a nice recent super galaxy on ebay


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## Jugular (4 May 2010)

It was intended as an illustrative top end estimate. If I spent that amount I would expect it to be better than a recent Super Galaxy, as that wouldn't have a handmade frame, or handbuilt wheels. I would also be lucky to find a large framed second hand bike in good nick that fits me. I might as well get a custom built bike for another £400 at that point.


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## willem (4 May 2010)

You mention that it has hardly been ridden at all. So why would you need to replace any parts other than the seat post (that is what it is called) or de derailleur (or even just the spring). I do not see how modern hubs are more efficient, let alone a lot more efficient. They are not. Of course 10 speed is only 10 speed. But if judiciously chosen they will get you a long way. 14-28 rear clusters are still quite easy to get, and IRD also do a 5 speed 13-32 Megarange that should get you up almost anything. See: http://www.interlocracing.com/freewheelbreakdown.html Use a modern mtb derailleur and you are fine and you do not need to hunt for that spring.
As for the brakes, I am not sure if you know what the brakes that you have are called. Dual pivot sidepulls are a later invention. Do you mean centrepull brakes, or perhaps even cantilever brakes? These should be fine, but will certainly need new cables and preferably Koolstop Salmon brakeshoes. And yes, cantilevers are not the easiest brakes to service. For that, get Shimano (Deore) V brakes and the Tektro V brake specific drop bar levers.
Willem


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## Jugular (4 May 2010)

You're absolutely right willem. Seatpost, cantilever brakes etc.

Thanks for the link for the chainset. I'm perfectly happy riding on fewer gears as long as the range is wide enough and replacements can be sourced. I wan't sure that modern rear derailleurs would work with old chainsets but you tell me they do, which is good news. I may still look into rebuilds of my wheels, perhaps with some modern rims, but original hubs, if they're good enough. Would I need to move the brake nipples to fit Deore v-brakes? 
The only other replacements are the perished brake hoods (but they'll be replaced if I get the tektro brake levers), handlebar grip that's got bird poo on it, slightly damaged mudguards and perhaps spd pedals. The bottom bracket has no play and the headset appears to be fine. By all accounts it's only ever ridden about 1,000 miles.


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## WJHall (7 May 2010)

Unless you are setting up a museum, it is worth thinking very carefully about expenditure. I see at least one shop offering a new 2009 Galaxy for GBP 863. The sensible course with an old bike, assuming it fits, is to do the minimum upgrades possible.

A thirty year old bike probably cost about GBP 250, and started to depreciate as soon as it left the shop, so its written down value is rather low. As an example, a few years ago I bought a ladies 531 Raleigh Royale from a local bike shop for GBP 55. This may be about the minimum you could expect to pay for such a machine, but bearing in mind depreciation, the inability to check thoroughly for wear and rust, it is also close to the maximum I would expect to pay. I thought the price appropriate to the possibility that it might only serve as as source of spares for our other bikes of similar age. In fact it has turned out to be in very good condition, and is now my wife's preferred machine. It now has butterfly bars (about GBP 40 with brake levers), and a triple chain set (GBP 35), also new kevlar belted tyres, but you can see how the cost begins to develop.


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## Jugular (7 May 2010)

I don't think the discounted cashflow and depreciation approach is very relevant. However I agree that the minimum upgrade cost is the way to go. I just need to find out what exactly the measurements are and what can and cannot be easily replaced. So my job for the weekend is to drag it out into the light and properly appraise it.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to do that this weekend after the Wilmslow Origami ride.

My estimations from memory are that I need (approx. price):
£18 Tektro RL520 Brake Levers (compatible with v-Brakes)
£24 Shimano Deore V-Brakes
£28 Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur 
£25 Seatpost
£15 Bar Tape
£30 MegaRange Freewheel
----
£140


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## WJHall (7 May 2010)

I can see why you want to change those things for modern ones, so you are right to move on to a careful examination of what will and will not fit, and be careful not to go to a lot of trouble trying to make it what it will never be. Nevertheless, I feel rather attracted to the 5 speed 13-32 block myself, but do I really want to spend double the price of a 14-28?

I guess that you are younger than the bike, when the bike was young no one expected V brake type performance.....


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## willem (8 May 2010)

You forgot a new chain, but fortunately that will not break the bank. Get a good one. As for the brakes, modern brakes and levers are a clear improvement but you may also be surprised by the difference made by new cables and Kool Stop Salmon pads.
Willem


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## Jugular (23 May 2010)

I've given the Galaxy a mini service involving a good clean all over including trying to degrease the heavily oiled chain. While doing that I made sure to look out for any rust. The only place I saw anything worrying was on the right chain stay which has a few patches of rough or chipped paint with rust.

I then tried to get on with replacing the broken spoke. It was on the drive side of the rear wheel so went about getting the block removed. I tied it to the back of my Brompton where it promptly destroyed the rear light and took it to a shop. They did the old vice trick and two more spokes popped.

Now... what to do?!

Is this possible to remedy. 
I could either get a new 27 1 1/4 inch wheel which would reduce current updates or get a 700C wheel and open up more options and ease of futur updates, but have the problem of renovating the distances of everything on the frame.


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## willem (24 May 2010)

Get a good wheelbuilder to rebuild the rear wheel. Updating to etrto 622 (the offical name for the modern size) involves too many additional issues. Let him see if the hub is still ok (I really hope it is), and if the rim is fine as well. A new etrto 630 (that is the proper name for 27 inch) rim can still be bought, and of better quality than the old ones. This problem is of course an example of the kind of issues you run into with older bikes. 126 mm hubs can still be had. Easily for thread on freewheels, the much better Shimano cassette hubs in this size are hard to get (but I already found one in less than two minutes), and I think the Suntour offerings are incompatible (not sure, but beware).
Willem


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## Jugular (24 May 2010)

I did some more measuring yesterday.

I've found that the ebay listing was incorrect (surprise!) it's actually a 23.5" frame which I suspect is probably big enough as long as I can get a different seatpost that has a longer allowable exposed section. The rear axle spacing is 126mm. I still can't quite decide whether adjusting all the sizes would be worthwhile. Would the bike look a bit silly with smaller wheels?


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## WJHall (24 May 2010)

For three broken spokes...

Take a spoke key, three suitable spokes the right length, insert, carefully adjust tension as appropriate to get wheel true, including other spokes as appropriate. Does the general spoke tension sound correct when you ping the spokes? If so then inserting three spokes should not be a problem.

Alternatively, since it seems to rather doubtful that the bike fits, sell it on and look for one that does.


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## Jugular (24 May 2010)

Thanks WJHall. 

I think the bike does fit it just has an unusually short seatpost. 

The problem with "just fitting" some spokes is that they cannot be fitted with the block still attached to the wheel. Removing the block is not straightforward with a screw-on freewheel hub that hasn't be undone for over 30 years, to do so you need to use the strength and torque of the wheel to undo it. As the wheel weakens everytime you break another spoke, if it hasn't already removed the block it will never do so. To remove the block will involve damaging the hub beyond repair (unless very lucky, or there's some other technique not listed by Sheldon Brown). Catch 22. Buggered wheel.


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## WJHall (24 May 2010)

That is different, I thought you meant that the shop had removed the freewheel and broken the spokes in the process. If the freewheel is still on after there efforts you probably need to look up the procedure for taking a freewheel apart and removing it that way.

I have such a job to look at some time in the future when the freewheel on on of my passed on bikes eventually wears out, hoping no spokes break before then.

That is the problem with second hand bikes, I always remove the freewheel from a new bike and grease under it. No one else seems to...


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## Welsh Pirate (24 May 2010)

Regarding the broken spokes, I would recommend replacing all of the spokes on the drive side of the wheel. 

Why? Because it is likely that other drive side spokes are fatigued and will break as soon as you start riding - the ones that have broken already are likely to have been just the beginning. I would say that the cost of 16 (or 18) new spokes is minimal for piece of mind.

I had the same issue on a pair of wheels that I bought for one of my bikes - three drive side spokes broke. I measured the tension with the park tool spoke tension meter (i've since started to build my own wheels) and found that the spokes were too loose. I replaced all the drive side spokes, tightened all the spokes to the recommended tension. Since then the wheel has been fine.

I hope this helps - I found Roger Musson's Wheel Building book to be of great help. You can download it from his site for £9.


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## WJHall (25 May 2010)

As has been said several times, all old bicycles are superb machines, but they are also old bicycles.

Given the situation as I now understand it - three broken spokes - freewheel jammed on, I suspect it is worth considering the purchase of a new basic 27 inch rear wheel, the one currently in place is probably fairly basic, and new freewheel, and leaving the current wheel and freewheel for leisurely attention with lots of easing oil. Console yourself with the thought that the new freewheel can be counted as a revenue rather than capital item. (This is where the DCF approach is useful.)

Of course this does risk turning you into a collector of old bicycle parts....

Possible cheaper option, if opportunity presents is to buy another old cheap bicycle and cannibalise it. Which turns you into a collector of old bicycles....


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## Jugular (25 May 2010)

I think my current plan is to forget both old wheels and get a new pair built. All the while get my frame repainted and the rear triangle stretched to 130mm, then I can use modern easily available components but retain the ertro 630 rims. I might also consider replacing the brakes, brake levers and getting new fittings for cantis or v-brakes. How do I work out if they will fit or not?

I have some beautiful bar tape that has now slipped out of shape, can I refit it with some new glue stuff? I also like the tan brake hoods I have on my weinmann levers, but I don't reckon they're available anywhere anymore.


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## PpPete (26 May 2010)

Jugular said:


> I think my current plan is to forget both old wheels and get a new pair built. All the while get my frame repainted and the rear triangle stretched to 130mm, then I can use modern easily available components but retain the ertro 630 rims.



Widening a 126mm rear triangle to 130mm or even 135mm is easy... but why stick to 630 rims? Go to 622 - you won't notice the difference in looks, and gives you a much wider range of rims, tyres etc.

+1 on Welsh Pirates advice about Roger Musson's book, I used it to build new wheels for my Galaxy. Fantastic set of wheels that are lighter & faster than the originals... and just as strong. Cost about £120 in components +£9 for the book + £10 for tools.



> I might also consider replacing the brakes, brake levers and getting new fittings for cantis or v-brakes. How do I work out if they will fit or not?


If you have canti studs - use them, cyclo-x types are most efficient. Otherwise long drop dual pivots will cope with the change in wheel size from 27" to 700c.... and give excellent braking. I wouldn't bother getting canti studs brazed on.



> I have some beautiful bar tape that has now slipped out of shape, can I refit it with some new glue stuff?


Yes .... I actually prefer the non-adhesive kind. You need to exert a constant pull to get it on tight, but you can re-do many times if you need to change any accessories on the bars.



> I also like the tan brake hoods I have on my weinmann levers, but I don't reckon they're available anywhere anymore.


This is about the nearest you'll get. I bought black ones from that seller a while back. They fit quite well if you cut away a small piece to lengthen the slot underneath where it doesn't show.


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## Jugular (26 May 2010)

Thanks for the advice porkypete. Your advice always gives me a boost, simple, to the point, and reassuring.

I spent the time (yeah it was only 5 minutes I admit) to work out what type of brake I already have on the Galaxy and have deduced that I have cantilevers. Maybe I just need some better rims and brake pads to ensure improved braking. I'm not sure the canti's are very adjustable though so perhaps and alternative is required.


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## willem (26 May 2010)

Braking wil improve with new cables and Koolstop Salmon pads.
Willem


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## Jugular (27 May 2010)

We found a terminal crack on the left rear chainstay of my fiance's bike, so I spent yesterday afternoon salvaging various parts from that, happily it also has 630 wheels. I've fitted them and found that the shimano cantis I have need a good servicing, after which, I'm good to go. This has cost me nothing so far! 
Now I can ride to Paul Hewitt's and get some expert opinion. It's strange riding a cumbersome again after spending the last couple of months on my Brompton.


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