# My advice to newbies.



## andyfromotley (30 Jun 2008)

*Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*

pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,

'hi newbie, which bike?'

This is good, the people on this forum are passionate about helping people begin cycling.

Unfortunately there are so many, that the responses can be somewhat sporadic. It's not that people dont want to help but it really does get asked an awful lot. These are my views, there are a lot of people with more experience than me on here, but i have been in the same position as most people asking this question as i only got back into cycling over the last couple of years. i have included a lot of generalisaton but these tend to be comonly expressed views on this forum.

*So what have you got?*
First things first, i'm fairly sure that most people on here have, in a deep dark corner of the garage 'an old bike'. Well thats good, drag it out hose it off and assess the beast. Put some air in the tyres (i KNOW that theyre flat!). My guess is that this bike will do 90% of people who are getting back into cycling, at least for the first couple of months. If it has been in there, unused for a good while, say 4 years plus treat it to a service at your local bike shop (LBS). This should cost you about £60. Use it, enjoy it and if you are lucky you will have no need of new bikes.
If however there is no 'old bike' in the garage or it is completely inappropriate or unsafe then read on.

*Firstly a bit of background*
You can buy bikes EVERYWHERE nowadays. so lets have a look at the options.

*Internet *- Great deals - Little service, problems with sizing, not for the uninitiated
*Discount suppliers* - Motorworld and the like - Very Cheap, Bikes from about £80. The reason theyre cheap is because they're crap. Avoid at all costs.
*Specialist bike chains - *Buy a bike mag, the big swanky adds will be bike chains, Evans, Edinburgh Cycle co-op. and the like. They offer great choice, decent service and keen pricing. - A bit too corporate for some tastes (not edinburgh cycle co-op which i beleive is a proper co-operative)
*Local Bike Shop-*Every town has at least one, they dont always have the greatest choice but they do have almost without exception a passion for cycling, and a desire to see you leave on the right bike for you. Fnd a good one and you will treasure it like your firstborn child. These men and women know their stuff.

All things being equal - use your LBS, you wont regret it.

*Halfords-*One of britains biggest bike retailers, tens of thousands ride happiy on bikes from halfords. They are selling some pretty nice looking Chris Boardman bikes right now. But it is fair to say that they have earned a poor reputation on cycling forums like this. So use with trepidation.

*You want a bike? WHAT FOR?*
What sort of journeys do you have in mind? This is THE crucial question to deciding what bike you chould buy. I reckon the easiest way to adress this is to look generally at what each type of bike does, then match it to your needs.

ROAD BIKE - A racer as most of us used to call them when we were kids. If you are of a certain vintage then you will find things have changed... A LOT! They are as light as a feather and very quick. *But by far the biggest change is that there are no more levers to change gear any more, they are incorporated into the brake levers* and it was an invention bordering on genuis!! Dropped handle bars, thin wheels and tyres, anywhere between 10 and 27 gears. These are light fast, used for commuting where your journey is by road (or very good quality cycle tow path). Used for keeping fit, club and sportive (long timed rides). Not great for hooking up child seats trailers etc. If it was a car it would be a Ferrari.





HYBRID - pretty much designed to be fast commuters. They have 'flat' handlebars, (more comfortable/better view) Good brakes and bits that commuters need such as screws for mudgaurds and panniers etc, Use on road and good quality cycle paths. not ideal for the 'sportier' side of cycling. If it was a car it would be a Golf GTI 







TOURER - a sort of relaxed road bike, will do everything that the bikes above will and a hole lot more, if a tad slower. Comes with holes and screws for lots of panniers and racks in case you fancy going to Bolivia. A comfortable ride. If it was a car it would be a Volvo Estate.







MOUNTAIN BIKES

Heavyier and sturdier than the bikes listed above. They have different gearing too, which means it's much easier to get up hills on them but not quite so easy to tear along on the flat. Not my area of expertise but they generally fall into three catagories

Rigid - Similar to a Hybrid but a bit slower. Big fat tyres = comfy ride. great for tarmac and rougher trails and cycle ways. Ideal for fitting kids seats to it. A great all rounder used by lots of commuters. If it was a car it would be a Ford Mondeo.







Frount suspension - Great for rough x country rides and a little tarmac based riding. Quite slow as theyre heavy and 'bouncing up and down is an in efficient use of energy. If it was a car it would be a RAV 4.





Full Suspension - usually identified by a metal spring or similar connected to the back of the bike - these are really specialist sports bikes for full on mountain biking. If it was a car it would be a Land Rover.





Specialist bikes - recumbent, trikes, folders, bmx...... the list is endless but most people returning to cycling pass these by. No matter what you are interested in someone on these forums will have one or have ridden one so ask away


Now consider the original question, what journeys will you be using the bike for? Once you have an idea of which bike is for you then get on the internet and get out to the shops. The staff will help you and when you have narrowed it down to two or three models post here and people will find it much easier to advise you on specific bikes. Your big limiting factor is budget but there is something out there for everyone, even if youre skint the second hand market can usually turn something suitable up. 

There you go, thats my advice i hope you find it useful. This should with luck enable you to begin making sense of the bike market today. Any feedback welcome.

Andy


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## Scoosh (30 Jun 2008)

Excellent stuff, andyfromotley.

Admin - should this be a Sticky ?


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## Cathryn (1 Jul 2008)

This is indeed fab!! Gutted I have a volvo....but I did use the same analogy to the husband a while ago and he was gutted we're a pair of volvo drivers!!

Great advice though.


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## zimzum42 (2 Jul 2008)

Good stuff. But could this thread not be better titled so as to draw in those who should be reading it?


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## andyfromotley (2 Jul 2008)

Hi, guys, thanks for the feedback, i'm glad its been received in the spirit it was written.

once its been up a couple of weeks i will give it a bit of a rewrite based on comments posted here, so keep em coming.

Thanks Andy


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## mickle (2 Jul 2008)

I agree with most of your post AFO but am mildly concerned about your classifications. Don't get me wrong, you're definitions are right and I haven't yet formulated an alternative but I am coming to the conclusion that this whole field needs an even simpler approach. If the aim is to enable beginners to establish the right kind of bike for their needs perhaps we need a flow chart of some kind.
Or a matrixy thing.
I just think that the use of words like Hybrid are misleading for beginners. As manufacturers strive to fill every perceived gap in the market we end up with a range of bikes, from Roadbikes with flat bars at one end to chunky hub-geared 26" wheeled tanks at the other, all called hybrids. And what is a hybrid anyway? Historically, there were racers and tourers and town bikes. Then the mountain bike came along and nicked all the sales. As the mountain bike boom plateaued, and fearing a repeat of the eighties BMX nose-dive, manufacturers came up with the spiffy idea of putting flat bars and components on touring frames. For want of a better name they called them Hybrids. The name was appropriate for that particular point in time but what was a tiny sector of the market has moved on so much that the word has become meaningless. They're City bikes, Town bikes, Commuter bikes. Choice of wheel size and tyre cross-section is merely a trade off of speed over comfort. As is riding position. Trouble is, all the bike shops still call them Hybrids so maybe I'm fighting a losing battle.
My tuppence worth anyhoo.


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## stoatsngroats (2 Jul 2008)

Great post Andy, I just have 1 concern...




andyfromotley said:


> *Halfords....././..*. So use with trepidation.



....is surely much too strong, I think Halfords bikes are pretty good for the uninitiated, I have a racer (Carrera) and think it's perfectly good for my commutes, leisure rides, and prospective JoGLE next year. 

_I have no links with Halfords, nor any other party involved with their suplliers etc, I just feel that this should be watered down, or completely removed...._


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## andyfromotley (2 Jul 2008)

stoat, i will think about what you said but i did try to make my comments on halfords even handed. They do get an inordinate amount of criticism on here though and there must be a reason for that. The last thing i want is for new forummers to be sent somewhere that wont look after them. ..... i'll sleep on it.
andy
ps i have never bought anything from halfords so its not a personal issue.


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## HJ (2 Jul 2008)

My advice to Beginners, keep asking questions and don't be afraid to ask, that's why we have a Beginners section...


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## Cathryn (2 Jul 2008)

I think if we keep beginners away from Halfords and going to their LBS, that's only a good thing. I agree there are some good bikes in Halfords (we had a Carrera hybrid and really liked it) but surely the chances of them getting an awful bike and hating cycling are lower if they go to a bike shop?

Halfords is great for cheap accessories though...they definitely have their place.


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## punkypossum (2 Jul 2008)

I think the problem with halfords is not necessarily the bikes, the carreras for example tend to be very good, but unfortunately if you are a beginner you cannot necessarily rely on them to put the bike together properly or even in a way that makes it safe to ride.


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## mickle (2 Jul 2008)

Punkypossum is right, Halfords assembly standards are often very poor indeed. My mate runs a cycle shop which makes a lot of money from the inability of the local Halfords to assemble bikes correctly. 
They are also guilty of providing poor advice on frame sizing and regularly give people wrong advice about the kinds of bikes folk actually need. £99 full-susser for commuting?

Perhaps it's a blittle unfair to single Halfords out for criticism, plenty of LBSs are guilty of the same crimes, but they do seem to be consistently awful.


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## summerdays (3 Jul 2008)

Someone could do with producing a similar thing for kids bikes... a friend was asking my advice about which bike to buy from Halfords for her kid, and I managed to steer her away from full suspension but it still looks as if its going to be heavy. Kids are really drawn to full suspension chunky wheels - their image of a perfect bike.

And you forgot 2nd hand ... though as a beginner you probably need someone to help you check a bike over I guess so maybe thats why its not in there.

And I agree on the Halfords comments about how competant their bike mechanics aren't.


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## stoatsngroats (3 Jul 2008)

andyfromotley said:


> so its not a personal issue.



cool mate...no worries...!


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## bigguy (3 Jul 2008)

wow! that means I have got a 'golf GTi with a rav4 suspension then!! lol.

Seriously good advice though Andy... very helpful indeed.. for the uninitiated. Cheers.


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## Night Train (3 Jul 2008)

I'm not that happy with being a Rav4 cyclist  but it is a front suspension MTB with road tyres on so I gues it is also a Rav4 with wide lowprofile tyres! 

I wonder what the analogy for the various recumbents would be?


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## threefingerjoe (6 Jul 2008)

I have a long wheelbase OSS recumbent, a Rans Stratus XP. I'd call it a Cadillac. ;-)


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## Willow (6 Jul 2008)

that's good because I've asked about 20 questions in one day!


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## stoatsngroats (8 Jul 2008)

Night Train said:


> I wonder what the analogy for the various recumbents would be?




....don't know about analogy, but a collective could be " A Sedentary of recumbents"


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## Ludwig (9 Jul 2008)

A useful effort but I would always go for quality used bikes such as cult Italian and Brit marques. Also its racing bikes not road bikes!! Every bike is a road bike!! At the end of the day write a list and see if what you are looking for ticks the right boxes.


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## Andy in Sig (10 Jul 2008)

stoatsngroats said:


> ....don't know about analogy, but a collective could be " A Sedentary of recumbents"



As a recumbent rider, I've pondered that before and came up with "A glide of recumbents".


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## andyfromotley (10 Jul 2008)

Recumbent - if it was a car it would be Bentley (fast, comfortable and not too common)


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## mickle (10 Jul 2008)

Ludwig said:


> Also its racing bikes not road bikes!! Every bike is a road bike!!


 Nope, it's Road Bike which I guess is shorthand for Road Racing Bike. My mountain bike is definitely a Race Bike. It might confuse beginners but Road Bike is what they're called.


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## Willow (10 Jul 2008)

stick to cars I understand that.


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## Maz (13 Jul 2008)

punkypossum said:


> I think the problem with halfords is not necessarily the bikes, the carreras for example tend to be very good, *but unfortunately if you are a beginner you cannot necessarily rely on them to put the bike together properly or even in a way that makes it safe to ride.*


Tell me about it...mate of mine went to Halfords to collect and ride home his son's bike (they are roughly the same height etc). The front wheel came off on his way home.


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## pdubs678 (28 Jul 2008)

Hello!

I'm sure u've heard this one before but i'm new to cycling and have a few questions!! I could do with some advice on buying a bike and more specifically group sets! i've been told Shimano and campagnolo do good componenets and i wondering if anyone had an opinion on which was better??

I'm aware if the diferent levels of groupsets, but i'm a bit confused as to why a £230 bike from decathlon has Shimano sora components, but a £450 Scott bike only has Shimano 2200 components (which i thought were lower quality.... i may be wrong). Is the increase in price due to the frame been so much better quality???

Any help would really appreciated!


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## k turner (2 Aug 2008)

Wish I had seen this thread and this site before I got my bike.

H*** sold me a Cross country with fat tyres, very heavy, bad brakes, chain kept coming off, and after 9 returns, phone calls, neighbour helping, finally today I got my money back after 3 weeks. 

They then delivered to me a "normal, light, thin tyred, smooth tyred ladies going to the shop bike.

I did not have to get off today on my usual journey and push it up the hills, very heavy doing that. My journey which has been taking me 35 mins, today only took 12.

Pleased with the outcome, but I had to pay double the original price. I had four times the amount to spend in the first place, but some bike expert in the shop thought I could do with a mountain bike. 

(I have oesteoarthritis, fibromyalgia, CFS/ME, and have 7 broken vertebrae and 4 prolapsed disks and snapped cruciate ligaments, arthrisis in my knees, lowerback, upperback, neck and hips) as well as a broken and now twisted pelvis.

*Surely I needed the lightest, easiest bike to ride........????? Not the heaviest one with the fattest tyres they could find in the shop*

Again I re-iterate, I think the descriptions in the original post on this thread is bang on. Only wish I had found it sooner.

After 3 weeks, I am now happy.


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## k turner (2 Aug 2008)

I agree with changing the title of the thread. 

How about "BEFORE YOU BUY ADVICE"


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## zimzum42 (3 Aug 2008)

k turner said:


> I agree with changing the title of the thread.
> 
> How about "BEFORE YOU BUY ADVICE"


You pay for your advice??????


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## shimano (4 Aug 2008)

If I may be so bold I suspect K T's message could be re-arranged to 'advice before you buy' and still have her original meaning.


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## need2 (5 Aug 2008)

interesting read


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## Scoosh (5 Aug 2008)

Hi _need2_ and welcome to the forum 
Glad you found it an interesting read. You are now in the favoured position of being able to give the best feedback on it, because you are new to the forum !

Please let us know what you think of the advice given here:
- what is good 
- what could be junked 
- what annoys 
- what cheers 
- what is just plain useful 
- who is your favourite respondent 
etc etc

By the time you've done that lot, you'll have at least 2 new bikes, be pro racer fit, be commuting 50 miles/day, toured across Europe and the America(s), yet still be only 25 yrs old 

Happy further reading


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## professionalman (23 Aug 2008)

*A bit unfair to Halfords*

I have one of their basic CX10s bikes which is the aliminium framed entry level hybrid bike and by and large it is enjoyable to use and ride.

Its the same as a lot of peoples comments towards PC world - funny how they continue to pinch a good percentage of the market. 

Have found Halfords to be well priced and helpful - just my thoughts though and like all big franchises no doubt depends on the actual shop but the Aintree Shop does it for me.


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## vernon (30 Aug 2008)

professionalman said:


> I have one of their basic CX10s bikes which is the aliminium framed entry level hybrid bike and by and large it is enjoyable to use and ride.
> 
> Its the same as a lot of peoples comments towards PC world - funny how they continue to pinch a good percentage of the market.
> 
> Have found Halfords to be well priced and helpful - just my thoughts though and like all big franchises no doubt depends on the actual shop but the Aintree Shop does it for me.



It's very dangerous to use the Halfords bad LBS good argument because there is no guarantee that any LBS is a high quality service provider or indeed, a provider of quality bicycles.

The quality of service and competence of the mechanics are a variables across the spectrum of **all** bike retailers. Furthermore a disatisfied customer tells more people about the purchase/service than a satisfied customer which can distort the picture especially when there's a large number of branches which then facilitates the 'me too' responses and the spiral of disatisfaction descends into an inaccurate labelling of a retailer/retailer chain

The assertion that Halfords is bad is just that, an assertion unsupported by anything other than a collection of anecdotes.

Halfords' own brand, Carerra plus the Boardman range have received very positive reviews in the comics though it is fair to say that the Apollo range would not be my first choice. 

I have no connection with Halfords other than being the highly satisfied purchaser of five of their value for money Carrera off road and urban bikes over the past four or five years in some instances as a like for like replacement for stolen bikes.

Other cycle retailers have suffered from condemnation by anecdote in the past please don't perpetuate the practise.


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## remking (6 Sep 2008)

Hmmm. The great Halfords Debate. I, like many others, have one around the corner. I visited them last weekend to buy a bike. As a buyer, one likes to feel as though the seller wants ones business. I did not get this impression from them. Eventually, like PC World, they will go out of business (mark my words). It may take a few years or even not so long but it will happen. PC World is having a tough time because, not only their customers but also their suppliers, don't want to do business with them anymore. This is due to arrogance of working for a big brand name. I know this is off topic (sorry). Halfords could have had the £440 that I ended up spending last weekend. They had the first crack at the whip. They were not interested. I'm sure there will be many others in my position who will vote with their wallets. You have to look at the whole package, not just the bike. I ended up going to Cycle Express in Brockenhurst. The owner of the small chain (also on the web) helped me personally on a rainy Sunday morning. He guided me through the process of selecting a cycle. Once I made the decision I then asked if I could have the bike that day. 3 hours later I collected it after he had finished preparing it for me. This was someone who appreciated that I was spending some serious cash and wanted me to know that he wanted my business. Halfords completely failed in this area. Give it time....


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## col (6 Sep 2008)

That would be a shame if they did close,as iv had pretty good service from them in the past,and they do stock a good variety of things.Iv bought a few things off them over the years and have had no problems in the way they treat me.Sometimes iv just gone in to browse,and have always been approached with the "can i help?"when iv said no thanks im just looking they leave me alone to browse,when i have asked for something,they have tried to find out for me.Any faults with something have been sorted to my satisfaction,seems a good way of doing business to me in my experience.Im not saying all shops are like this,but mine is.


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## bigjim (2 Oct 2008)

E-Bay £50. What more do you want.


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## jay clock (3 Oct 2008)

I agree with the general "beware Halfords" for the newbie. The biggest risk is coming out with an unsuitable bike. The second risk is poor assembly etc. 

Having said that, the one bike I have from there is a stunningly good allrounder. Carerra Subway 1 circa 2004. Admittedly I have upgraded lots of it, but it really does do everything. It is does 99% of what my £1200 Koga Miyata World Traveller does, works great as a town/commuter, can go off road, and I have done 60+mile day rides on it.

But I know a lot about bikes, and my feeling is that an LBS is a generally a good place to start. The key issue is to get newbies past the "but I can get a bike for half/a third of that price in Asda"...... yes, and it will be KRAP and will put you off cycling.

best of luck to any newbies


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## maxcherry (8 Oct 2008)

Hay great my bike is a GTI


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## jimboalee (29 Oct 2008)

My advice to Newbies.
While trying to choose your new bike:- Buy a cheap heap of junk out of the paper or visit the local tatman. Strip it and rebuild it. Poke the tyres with a pin and repair the punctures you just made.
After this, you might decide to keep the 'junk' you have renovated.


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## Wigsie (23 Dec 2008)

Andy,

Thanks for the post, I have just posted a seemingly generic "which bike" post, then read yours, amongst others, I have been recommended a Cyclocross bike for 18 mile (one way) commute amongst the usual hybrid and road bike recommendations. You didnt include these in your post? Would they be an Audi or BMW?


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## beanzontoast (14 Jan 2009)

My advice: If you're buying your first bike, take along an experienced cycling friend - possibly one who already buys from the LBS you're going to. And IMO, if you can't get a test ride, walk away.


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## dobbin33ch (22 Jan 2009)

*get original bearings and parts*

my advise to new bikers who want to fix everythiung themselfs is to shop around really well on the web ,i just found that ritchey have a new website selling onl spare parts ,and these are parts that are normally hard to find ,i just finally fixed a ritchey protocol wheelset by getting the original free hub and bearings direct from ritchey ,check it out ritchey.ch


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## FelixStarsofsky (12 Feb 2009)

HI there, 
My first post on the boards here... Woo Hoo! Haha. I'm the only one laughing arn't I. Anyway...

Great thread Andy. I jusy bought myself my firstbike for years from Halfords for commuting to and from work. Hopefully it will work out ok for me... Watch this space. 

I'm off to introduce myself in the relevent thread now. See you soon.

Oliver


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## Dave5N (14 Feb 2009)

My advice. Read the threads and do a search before you post. Then you'll get a balance of answers, not a first response from whoever is around.


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## Michael (24 Feb 2009)

hi there
i'm a new member of this site
i will be trying to complete the JOGLE task this summer, and was curious to see if anyone had any advice for me
it would be a great achievement to do it before my 17th birthday
many thanks


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## spinkung (15 Apr 2009)

Hey all,

Can someone be so kind as to post some info on bike maintenance???

I really enjoyed reading this post (especially as it seems my first bike is a ferrari) but i now have a ferrari that i don't want to turn into an old banger.

I'm not looking to become a mechanical genius (yet), i just want some advice on things i can self service, how often (and how) and things i should get done at my LBS and how often??

I guess most of this will be as an when required but are there things i should be doing regularly??

Thanks. Spin.


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## smokie36 (16 Apr 2009)

Hi,

first post here so bear with me...(and apologies for the longish post)

Pretty good initial advice in this thread but I'm still a bit confused. I think probably stems from different people using different definitions.

I've got a 4/5 year old Saracen 'comfort bike'. Basically a mountain bike with less knobbly tyres, front suspension and suspension on the saddle. Brilliant bike for taking the kids down cycle paths, tow paths etc. And I want to keep it. But its a bit heavy and slow on the road - on the flat I can get it up to maybe 15mph but thats about it. As I've been bitten by the cycling bug this year and want to go on longer rides and generally build up my fitness I want to get another bike that's more appropriate.

Living in the Bristol area there are a few LBS and I've visited some. What I want is a bike which will handle itself well on the road and more importantly allow me to keep up a decent pace on longer rides (looking to do the round the IoW ride in a couple of weeks and then aim to go on 20/30 mile rides regularly), with a budget of £400. One LBS told me to just spend the £400 getting new wheels, gears etc on my Saracen, one suggested a racing bike with drop handles and another is adamant I want a hybrid...so I'm at a bit of a loss!

I've now got a 'Giant' catalogue and quite frankly thats left me even more confused - they have Road bikes (Competition, Performance, Fitness*), Lifestyle bikes (Communting*, Comfort) and Hybrids (which seem to be some kind of electric-bike?). My feeling is that I want one of the two I've asterixed but to be honest I'm not 100% sure. Get the right one and I'll probably end up a cycling nut. Get the wrong one and I'll go on it for a couple of weeks and then give up.


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## stoatsngroats (23 Apr 2009)

smokie36 said:


> Hi,
> 
> first post here so bear with me...(and apologies for the longish post)



Hi mate, welcome to CC...



smokie36 said:


> As I've been bitten by the cycling bug this year and want to go on longer rides and generally build up my fitness I want to get another bike that's more appropriate.



This bit says 'roadbike' to me - many others will disagree....



smokie36 said:


> I've now got a 'Giant' catalogue...../...Get the right one and I'll probably end up a cycling nut. Get the wrong one and I'll go on it for a couple of weeks and then give up.




Many others available tho'.....and getting the right bike will allow many makes to satisfy these needs....

My advice would be definately to test ride some from local LBS's, you'll build up a personal relationship which might last a long while, and guage what bike will suit you. 

If you've been on you current bike for a while, and are looking to get a bit more serious, I think you've already got the bug.......take a test ride or 2, then come back and tell us what you think...


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## neil68 (5 May 2009)

First time caller and was really pleased to see this thread straight away!

Basically, I'm a lazy buyer and would be quite content to pop down to Halfords and pay the £159.99 for the Glide

I could stretch my pennies to about £250 really, but am always tempted byt something that is half price. I am after a mountain bike, but will mainly using it on roads.


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## smokie36 (7 May 2009)

stoatsngroats said:


> Hi mate, welcome to CC...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I tried a few bikes down at the local Evans - initially preferred the hybrids as I found the road bikes a bit too 'twitchy'. Left it for a while and popped into hal**rds and tried a gryphon (flat bar road bike). Loved it and ended up buying it. It got me round the IoW at the weekend so its done the first job I wanted it for!

I know that it won't last me a lifetime but it should do for a couple of years until I get a better understanding of just how I'm going to use the bike and I can save up for something better.


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## stoatsngroats (14 May 2009)

smokie36 said:


> I know that it won't last me a lifetime but it should do for a couple of years until I get a better understanding of just how I'm going to use the bike and I can save up for something better.


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## kelv61 (15 May 2009)

Hi all
first timer here. I dont need any advice on what bike, or what what clothing. In 3 weeks from today, a mate and me are doing LEJOG. AND WE CANT BLOODY WAIT.
So if anyone has done or is thinking about doing it, I'd like to here from ya.


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## fitzgerald19 (19 May 2009)

thank you for your advice!


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## edwina pentelow (8 Jun 2009)

I went to my local bike shop and like you said they were really helpful didnt try to flog the most expensive bike and did ask lots of questions. They were great.
Richardsons of Leigh on sea Essex. Really nice guys. No connection.
Got a great bike just love it. 
not an essex lady.
Irish


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## andyfromotley (10 Jun 2009)

hi edwina,

welcome, but dont tease........ what bike did ya get?????!

andy


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## Helly79 (12 Jun 2009)

great explaination of the types of bikes available and it made me laugh that you use types of cars to describe them, very good  as I am in the process of getting a new bike through C2W scheme.


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## moribund (16 Jun 2009)

Thanks for the guide, helped with the bike genre now all i need is some pennies .


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## HJ (17 Aug 2009)

Before you think of buying a cheap bike read this and avoid the Bike Shaped Object (BSO), they really aren't worth buying...


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## Horsfall (18 Aug 2009)

Some good info here for newbies like myself


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## Randochap (5 Sep 2009)

(Shameless plug dept.) I advise all newbies to check out VeloWeb


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## Downward (18 Sep 2009)

I advise all Clipless Newbies to check the tightness of the bolts connecting cleats to shoes weekly.
You would be amazed how easily they come undone over time.


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## john2755 (7 Oct 2009)

I like this post, I did exactly what you suggest at the start. Retired since April need to keep fit, don't need the car to get me anywhere in seconds. I have a Marin Bear Valley mountain bike in the garage, 19 years old no suspension but great quality product. I thought I would be a sedate old road cyclist. Big mistake as I soon found all the trails, hills and off road delights to be conquered in my part of the world that will happily keep me comming home covered in crap and sweat for years to come. 
As for hybrids. As a lifelong member of the retail industry I understand that the first priority of a retail business is to make money, period. This can often be achieved by "marketing" A clever way of doing this is to invent a word and then persuade the world they need it, hence "hybrid" In my limited experience the majority of people who ride these things spend most of their time worrying about getting their expensive designer outdoor clothing dirty. Ok this might be slightly over the top but I think you'll agree with the general sentiment.
Great post Andy.


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## k8srd (8 Oct 2009)

Thanks andy. As a newbie helped me decide a hybrid the best place to start for me.

Great thread


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## stevie4 (11 Oct 2009)

Hi all,

I'm new to the forums and after having yet another bike stolen (8 in total in the last 8 years) thought it was time to ask some advice from other cyclists on how to keep my bike safe. What type of lock should I be buying (last one was Gold standard Master lock which they easily cut through like butter)?

Also I have a set of brand new ALex Rims DA16 wheels to sell (never used) and I was wondering what sort of price I should be asking for them?

Many thanks for any helpful suggestions


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## andyfromotley (11 Oct 2009)

Hi steve, try posting your question about locks in commuting, those boys and girls know thier onions.


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## Garz (11 Oct 2009)

as they are commuting farmers!


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## queen110 (17 Oct 2009)

Hi there! I'm a new member.
This good site for the best topic!


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## Exequine (6 Nov 2009)

*Thanks for the sugestions*

After a horse riding accident, my physio suggested cycling as good rehab followng 2 broken ankles. I haven't cycled since I was a kid and have never chosen a bike for myself. I read through this thread and some others on this forum this morning and wanted to thank all the contributors as it's been very helpful.

I was originally heading to Halfords but after popping in there during the week and being completely ignored for at least 15 minutes (even though I wandered around, squeezing brake levers, poking at saddles and reading labels - not a clue lol!) I had second thoughts. These doubts were compounded by the Watchdog programme on flatpacks.

I worked through the types of bikes at the start of this post and decided I probably wanted a hybrid. I live too far from work and along dangerous roads so proper commuting by bike is not an option for the foreseeable future - wobbly and unfit = danger to motorists. I live near a country park with reasonable cycle tracks and would cycle around there, getting to and from there on roads, and might also want to cycle along the canal towpaths; hence hybrid. As my work has just signed up to the cycle purchase scheme, I decided to spend more than I otherwise would have done. Taking the suggestions in this thread on board I headed to my local LBS (if I remember right this is my local bike shop). The guys there couldn't have been more pleasant and helpful.

I'm now excited to be waiting for my new bike to be ready and looking forward to being able to join in more of the discussions.

I picked a Specialized Ariel Sport Women's 2010, thanks again.


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## andyfromotley (8 Nov 2009)

Hi exequine and welcome to the forum.

I am delighted that you found the thread of some use and chuffed that you found time to post. Dont forget any questions just post on beginners you'll get a great response.

enjoy your bike

andy


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## stsfixings (15 Dec 2009)

moved to the newbie section


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## Scousechick (28 Dec 2009)

Hi everyone,
I've just signed up for the Macmillan Cancer Support cycle challenge from London to Paris in July 2010. I'm 35 and haven't been on a bike since I was 10 (apart from the ones bolted to the floor in the gym). I've started getting advice and am looking at buying a bike in early January, joining a local women's cycling club and then starting my training plan.

I look forward to picking up tips and suggestions from anyone and anywhere on this site.

Diane


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## sagefly (10 Jan 2010)

*G'day*

Hi all, I took up cycling last year to lose a bit of weight and get a bit fit and was eventually doing about 100 miles a week until a scumbag nicked my bike.

This thread has been really useful in helping to decide on a replacement. I hope that through time I'll be able to provide the same level of help to others on here.

One thing is there any "real" difference between the top model bikes of similar spec, or is it down to personal feel of the bike?

Many thanks


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## andyfromotley (11 Jan 2010)

hi fly,

welcome, i guess all bikes come down to preference. But as a general rule, similar style, similar bike usually means similar kit. You tend to get less for your money with the big brands.

andy


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## JtB (30 Jan 2010)

andyfromotley said:


> *So what have you got?*
> First things first, i'm fairly sure that most people on here have, in a deep dark corner of the garage 'an old bike'. Well thats good, drag it out hose it off and assess the beast. Put some air in the tyres (i KNOW that theyre flat!). My guess is that this bike will do 90% of people who are getting back into cycling, at least for the first couple of months. If it has been in there, unused for a good while, say 4 years plus treat it to a service at your local bike shop (LBS). This should cost you about £60. Use it, enjoy it and if you are lucky you will have no need of new bikes.
> If however there is no 'old bike' in the garage or it is completely inappropriate or unsafe then read on.


I remember seeing this excellent thread in 2008 when I returned to cycling and I went for the "So what have you got?" option. Over 18 months on and I'm still riding my old (1977) Carlton and in no hurry to move up (yet).
Thanks.


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## Bearonabike (10 Feb 2010)

And a word from a newbie to all newbies, once you have made your mind up what type of bike you want (and I thought the article at the top of this thread was superb, thanks) remember that all the manufacturers are fighting over the same piece of market and price point. I spent ages looking at what bike to buy and looking at all the different specs. I can conclude that what one manufacturer gives you in one area they take away from another, they have to build to a price, whatever that price is. I was working to a £650 top budget for a road bike, not much and very much entry level. I was given a great piece of advice that is echoed on every forum and review I read, buy what fits you best and you are most comfortable on. The specs will vary, but I said, especially at my price point, what one gives the others take away, so dont get too hung up on it. If you are a newbie it is unlikely you will notice a huge difference to the finer details, you will however notice a huge difference to how the bikes feel when you ride them. It's a bit like learning to drive and looking at the specs of a Ferrari and a Porsche when really you havent even driven a Fiesta yet!!!! Remember this is aimed at newbies, so dont shoot me down just yet!!!! It's how I felt. So I went and rode a load of bikes. I had read rave reviews on so many bikes (call me cynical, but,whose paying the journos?) Giant, Trek, Boardman, Specialized etc and done all the comparisons from an armchair, but when I rode them there was only one bike for me, it just felt right and I knew I would want to get it out everyday and ride it, it was how it felt. I am 6ft 2 tall and weigh 16 stone am 43 and have played rugby all my life and only ever ridden old mountain bikes and the like when I couldnt go running due to injuries, so what did I know about road/racing bikes, nothing! Ride the bikes, all good LBS will be happy for you to do this (in my experience anyway) and go with whatever bike you know you will want to jump on and ride because it feels good. I am sure as experience groes I will decide on all the upgrades and bits and pieces that I want to change, but right now, I am just enjoying riding my bike, staying fit and embarking on charity rides because the bike feels good to me! I bought the Spesh Allez Sport 18, but that doesnt mean you will, it just suited me. Hope that helps, maybe, maybe not, but it was my experience on getting into cycling now the kness and back have finally said that getting clattered around a rugby pitch every Saturday is for thos a tadge younger than me! Happy cycling and enjoy, above all, enjoy.


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## Bearonabike (10 Feb 2010)

Forgot to say, about the Halfords thing, took my old mountain bike to Halfords for a service, loads done, but assured all was fine, took the bike outside to ride it home........back wheel fell off!!!!!!!!! What can I say


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## Bearonabike (10 Feb 2010)

And a word from a newbie to all newbies, once you have made your mind up what type of bike you want (and I thought the article at the top of this thread was superb, thanks) remember that all the manufacturers are fighting over the same piece of market and price point. I spent ages looking at what bike to buy and looking at all the different specs. I can conclude that what one manufacturer gives you in one area they take away from another, they have to build to a price, whatever that price is. I was working to a £650 top budget for a road bike, not much and very much entry level. I was given a great piece of advice that is echoed on every forum and review I read, buy what fits you best and you are most comfortable on. The specs will vary, but I said, especially at my price point, what one gives the others take away, so dont get too hung up on it. If you are a newbie it is unlikely you will notice a huge difference to the finer details, you will however notice a huge difference to how the bikes feel when you ride them. It's a bit like learning to drive and looking at the specs of a Ferrari and a Porsche when really you havent even driven a Fiesta yet!!!! Remember this is aimed at newbies, so dont shoot me down just yet!!!! It's how I felt. So I went and rode a load of bikes. I had read rave reviews on so many bikes (call me cynical, but,whose paying the journos?) Giant, Trek, Boardman, Specialized etc and done all the comparisons from an armchair, but when I rode them there was only one bike for me, it just felt right and I knew I would want to get it out everyday and ride it, it was how it felt. I am 6ft 2 tall and weigh 16 stone am 43 and have played rugby all my life and only ever ridden old mountain bikes and the like when I couldnt go running due to injuries, so what did I know about road/racing bikes, nothing! Ride the bikes, all good LBS will be happy for you to do this (in my experience anyway) and go with whatever bike you know you will want to jump on and ride because it feels good. I am sure as experience groes I will decide on all the upgrades and bits and pieces that I want to change, but right now, I am just enjoying riding my bike, staying fit and embarking on charity rides because the bike feels good to me! I bought the Spesh Allez Sport 18, but that doesnt mean you will, it just suited me. Hope that helps, maybe, maybe not, but it was my experience on getting into cycling now the kness and back have finally said that getting clattered around a rugby pitch every Saturday is for thos a tadge younger than me! Happy cycling and enjoy, above all, enjoy.


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## rhys (10 Feb 2010)

great advice andy, really helping me out to find the right bike for me, cant wait to purchase! great website by the way


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## Jodami84 (25 Apr 2010)

was in the process of posting the yet another "what bike to buy" thread when i saw this. Bloody excellent info and ideal for a complete beginner like myself. Looking forward to getting down to the local bike shop. 

Anyone familiar with Trek bikes. Seems my local shop specialises in them Chevin Cycles its called


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## Rhythm Thief (25 Apr 2010)

Jodami84 said:


> was in the process of posting the yet another "what bike to buy" thread when i saw this. Bloody excellent info and ideal for a complete beginner like myself. Looking forward to getting down to the local bike shop.
> 
> Anyone familiar with Trek bikes. Seems my local shop specialises in them Chevin Cycles its called



Ah, another Otley lad. My first bike (a Dawes Kingpin) was from Chevin Cycles, way back in the late 1970s.
I don't know much about Trek bikes, but my dad bought one from Chevin Cycles and was very pleased with the service and the bike. They're pretty helpful in there.


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## Bilboben (27 Apr 2010)

Re Halfords interestingly Jessops get the same sort of barage of critique on photography forums. Appropriate I think for those just starting out. Easy victims for those enthused by their developed and higher level of knowledge. Shop at your level if you keep at it you will naturally rise up through the levels if you can afford to!!


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## mrboio (16 May 2010)

Just wanted to say that this post answered a lot of my questions - and I did buy from Halfords about 12 years ago - and they did not ask me the first question that was asked by my local bike shop: what are you using the bike for? Seems to me this is a pretty important question. I can't have an opinion about the bikes, as I bought a Raleigh mountain bike and still use it. The big difference for me was customer service and knowledge.

We are planning a cycle trip to and across France. I'm beginning to think the Raleigh is a bit heavy for this. Reading all of the posts here, it seems best thing to do is to try things out and keep searching. Local bike shop keen to sell me a Ridgeback, but the Bianchi's look superb. Limited choice but great shop.

If anything, my question is - any reason to avoid either of these makes?


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## andyfromotley (17 May 2010)

mrboio said:


> Just wanted to say that this post answered a lot of my questions - and I did buy from Halfords about 12 years ago - and they did not ask me the first question that was asked by my local bike shop: what are you using the bike for? Seems to me this is a pretty important question. I can't have an opinion about the bikes, as I bought a Raleigh mountain bike and still use it. The big difference for me was customer service and knowledge.
> 
> We are planning a cycle trip to and across France. I'm beginning to think the Raleigh is a bit heavy for this. Reading all of the posts here, it seems best thing to do is to try things out and keep searching. Local bike shop keen to sell me a Ridgeback, but the Bianchi's look superb. Limited choice but great shop.
> 
> If anything, my question is - any reason to avoid either of these makes?



Nope both are fine, bianchi's are very highly regarded but that doesnt mean that the ridgeback isnt right for you.


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## madm00se (26 May 2010)

Great post, i've just bought a new bike from Edinburgh bike co-op, their revolution triad 2 (although it's stickered up wrong, as the 1-but it's got all the right components for the 2!) and snip of a price as in the sale. ALSO i'm dead chuffed as it got the best review in one of the mountain bike mags this yr!


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## Dom85 (7 Jun 2010)

Excellent post, and interesting, apparently I'm looking for a Golf GTi, and my car is a Golf!

I ventured into the local bike shop on Friday and they were brilliant, now I just to save up my pennies as I've fallen for the ladies Marrin Redwood.


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## debeast (18 Jun 2010)

Thanks for the FAQ :-)


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## chewy (13 Aug 2010)

This has been really helpful so thanks.
But I drive a 406 hdi! Like a gti or a volvo though.


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## Scotmitchy (13 Aug 2010)

[QUOTE 280773"]
Excelent OP.

However, my one comment.

Maybe instead of comparing cycles to cars you could compare them to musical genres, for those (like me) who know nothing about cars.

So, for example:

Full Sus MTB from Halfords: Pub Heavy Metal Band where the blokes are all over 50.

Full Sus MTB (expensive): Heavy Metal Band (Def Leppard)

Top of the range Road Bike: Prog Rock

Middle of the road Road Bike: MOR

Tourer: New Wave agit-pop

Hybrid: Folk

Fixed wheel: (medium model off the peg): Designer thrash pop e.g. Jesus and the Mary Chain

Fixed Wheel: (top of the range model off the peg): Duran Duran type new wave (sorry)

Fixed Wheel: (built and tailor-made): Art Rock wannabees

Rust bucket: Juke Box pot luck

(I'll get my coat)
[/quote]


LOL I have just bought a hybrid. I occasionally sing with a folk group, so this made me laugh out loud.


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## chewy (13 Aug 2010)

So I've spent the working day thinking and re-thinking what I'm after, and keep comming back to this little guide!

Have finally decided that I'm after a town/touring type effort! Something I can use for a Saturday morning drash, but also something I can bang a pannier on and use to pop to the shops with (this will help get more money for the bike past the wife I hope!!! ), not to mention when I'm on kid minding duty!

So any ideas?!!!!! was looking at a Kona smoke on t'internet and that seems along the lines of what i'm after. Budget at the moment is no more than £400. (I get a feeling tht I shall end up buying a Racer next year at alot more money - I will probably get caught up in all this!!!!) Wouldn't sniff at second hand either!


I know that this is all a bit open ended, but Im gratefull for any advice/ideas you can give me!!!!!!!please!!!!!


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## Southdowner (26 Aug 2010)

Feel like a right wally now, having just posted a message regarding upgrading my bike and 'does anyone have any ideas...." ? 
Brilliant website,,,I think I need to read more before asking....

RE - Halfords..I have just experienced total customer service failure from three different outlets in my area..I don't know why I bothered, especially as I was warned beforehand...

The words Bargepole...touch..and don't...... spring to mind...

Southdowner


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## Cheule (31 Aug 2010)

Excellent guide.

Bit disappointed I have a RAV4, I suspect a bit of tinkering, swapping the forks out I can get it to be a Mondeo which is ideal for me. Also mounting a bike computer sensor is a bit tricky when the front end moves.


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## tachi (23 Sep 2010)

Can anyone recommend a good bike shop in West London? Chiswick, Uxbridge or even Slough/Reading. 

Thanks


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## cameramanjim (11 Oct 2010)

Hi Andy 

What an amazing post - I´m one of the ´newbie, which bike´posters and you´ve answered every question I could ask (apart from the one I just posted on the Bikes, Accessories section). Many thanks for going to the trouble of doing this for us.

CJ


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## Cardiac (1 Nov 2010)

Excellent thread - thanks to the OP for starting it.

I just joined the forum to look for hints, tips, etc. 

Cheers,

Les.


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## dobber (5 Dec 2010)

andyfromotley said:


> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> 'hi newbie, which bike?'
> 
> ...


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## dobber (5 Dec 2010)

very informative and straight to the point..nice one


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## Maverick Goose (23 Dec 2010)

On the old WMB forum, the swear filter would change 'crap' to 'Apollo mtb' ...a not universally loved offering from Halfords..


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## mightyquin (25 Jan 2011)

Hi,

I've already posted a couple of threads about bike options/opinions, then found this. 

I'm a 'newbie' in that I haven't bought a bike for over 10 years, and haven't ridden the one that I've got at the back of the garage for a few years now - it's a Raleigh MTB, was cheap when I bought it and the gears are shot. Needs new tyres and a complete overhaul. So I thought it would be more cost effective for me to buy something new/ish.

As a newbie, my experience so far. I started out thinking just get a new MTB, maybe with tyres for road use (I want a bike for general running about, commuting, shopping, exercise and the odd day out in the country on off road cycle trails). I've committed to a charity bike ride in the Spring too. I'm not going to be using the bike every day though, nor every weekend, so I figure I really don't need anything too fancy or high spec. I know you get what you pay for and all that.

I'm lacking decent bike shops in the immediate area. There's a couple of very high end places where they'll snigger at me because the bikes they sell cost more than my car, and there's a couple of places that mostly sell bright pink trikes or flashy full suspension mountain bikes. Oh, and Halfords and an Evans.

I almost bought a bike at Evans last week, they were meant to set one up so I could test ride it. I phoned them back to see if it was ready and I'm still waiting for a call back days later! Halfords were worse, no staff in the cycle dept at all, and one person on the till downstairs with a queue of people to serve. 

I've had advice to buy s/h, check e bay etc. That's fine if you know what you want and know what to look out for. But I'll probably end up with a bike that doesn't fit and is in worse condition than my knackered Raleigh. I've had a couple of offers from people on the forums of bikes for sale, they looked great but again, I'd like to see/try them first.

So, for us newbies, it really is quite difficult. I'd much prefer to buy from a good LBS and have someone I can go back to for after sales service, to buy accessories when I want them and probably to upgrade later on.

The main thing is deciding on the style of bike. A mate said to me just buy one you like the look of, and he might be right! Pretty much every bike you look up on the net has a review that says something like "it's OK but spend £80 more on the next model up" - and the next model up will be just the same! 

The more I look, the more I read, the more confused I'm becoming! I do fancy a single speeder though....


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## fugsy2011 (9 Mar 2011)

Hello,
This is my first post so let's hope I don't make a fool of myself.

I've been cycling for many a year so might be able to help. As my brother always says 'you need a system' to work from before you buy.

Work out what kind of rides you will make the most initially then ask yourself what kind of rides you want to be doing in 6 months time. Find a style of bike, be it off-road, hybrid or a road bike that would suit these rides then ask several local bike shops to set up 2 or 3 to try out. Don't be intimidated, it's a sale for them and they'll be content to help even if they don't look it. 

It's really important to try your bike out beforehand and as many as possible. Take your time, don't rush and enjoy the buying process as the last thing you want to do is regret your purchase. Don't go crazy on price initially but feel you are buying something you will be proud to ride about on. If it feels good to ride and you enjoy the look of your bike then you can't really ask for more.

My direct bike advice would be to get a hybrid, something that will withstand a moderate dirt track but will easy to jump on and off/nip to shops/commute to work. However, use a system and you'll soon find the right bike for yourself.




mightyquin said:


> Hi,
> 
> I've already posted a couple of threads about bike options/opinions, then found this.
> 
> ...


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## Bicycle (5 Apr 2011)

Excellent piece for people just stating out.

I'm not sure about the car comparisons, but that's just me being a geek.

On other advice for new cyclists, I would add this.

USE A LOWER GEAR THAN YOU THINK YOU'LL NEED AND PEDAL FASTER THAN YOU THINK YOU OUGHT TO.

I was told for years not to get into the big gears too early, but ignored the avice.

I now see others all around me who labour along where they could be having a much easier time.

That's the advice I wish I'd taken years before I did.


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## AaronC (15 Apr 2011)

Nice post Andy!


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## dicko (16 Apr 2011)

I have just bought myself a bike today. I bought it from the shop in the town, the LBS. I have a lot of respect for these businesses and I was given a good discount for a bike, panniers, lock, helmet and stand, you dont get that on the tinternet, and within thirty mins it was ready to ride away!! I was also invited to take my bike back in six/eight weeks time for a free service. The other thing is if anything goes wrong a quick visit will have it all sorted in minuites. I would like to add that whilst I was there five other people bought bikes too.


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## Mawsley (20 Apr 2011)

dicko said:


> I have just bought myself a bike today. I bought it from the shop in the town, the LBS. I have a lot of respect for these businesses and I was given a good discount for a bike, panniers, lock, helmet and stand, *you dont get that on the tinternet,* and within thirty mins it was ready to ride away!! I was also invited to take my bike back in six/eight weeks time for a free service. The other thing is if anything goes wrong a quick visit will have it all sorted in minuites. I would like to add that whilst I was there five other people bought bikes too.



Join the CTC and you'll get an automatic 12% off everything at Wiggle.


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## pipsar6 (29 Apr 2011)

Useful/interesting thread.

I got my bike from Halfords a few years ago - the first bik I've had for about 40 years-the last one came with stabilisers...

I did not want to spent 2 or 3 hundred quid on a bike that might end up unused in the shed. my little old banger was half price (about 70 quid) at the end of the summer and without that opportunity I would not be on a bike now. It's been a great learning curve for me... the bike is adequate but has also enabled me to learn-and discover what I might like for my next bike which am prepared to spend more on now that I know I can stay upright. 

Incidentally the guys at Halfords were great with me and really approachable and not at all patronising to this fat middle aged woman as I had half feared they would be...


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## sfb (17 May 2011)

Interesting thread.

I wanted to buy my bicycle through the Cycle to Work Scheme. First I had to set up the scheme for the company I work for - really straightforward. The Scheme website tells you which bike shops participate so I went along to The Bicycle Hub in Ironbridge. They do bicycle and tandem hire as well as bicycle sales and servicing. I knew nothing at all about what I needed. I fancied a Pashley because I like the traditional look but the staff spent a lot of time talking through what cycling I was planning to do. When I said I would mainly be cycling 8 miles each way to work and back they asked about the route and what the road/track surfaces would be like, made some recommendations and sent me away to think about it. They advised against the Pashley due to the weight of it, reasoning that I would be more likely to keep cycling if I had something lighter and with more gears (and I'm really not very fit!). Once I'd made my choice, they measured me so they could select the correct frame size and spent a lot of time explaining the best route I could take to work - it doesn't follow the route I take in the car so I wasn't familiar with large parts of it - and showed me the route on a map that they gave me to keep. When I went to collect the bike, they checked the height again and spent time watching me practice the gears (my last bike was a 1940s BSA with 4 Sturmey Archer gears). They then recommended other routes that I might want to try for fun - got another map to take away. They rang me a couple of weeks later to see if the bike was ready for its first free service - I hadn't used it much by then, for various reasons, so they are going to call back in a couple of weeks.

I'm really impressed by the service and glad I went to the LBS, rather than buying on the internet - especially as a newbie/beginner. Internet probably makes more sense once you have a bit more experience and know pretty much what you want or need.

Hazel


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## Adasta (24 May 2011)

That sounds like a great LBS!


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## Lucasmik (5 Jun 2011)

Thanks for the information, some useful points.


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## codbolt2 (19 Jun 2011)

great post , thanks


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## Weesilvie (25 Jun 2011)

I love this thread - thanks all.

It probably says all the things we all know to be true, deep in our minds - but it helps to be reminded of them.


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## julesdavis1965 (25 Jun 2011)

hiya just joined this forum. i had a bike i used purely to get me to work, 5 miles every day. no bus when i needed it! since giving up work to care for my disabled husband the weights creeping on so i decided to get back in the saddle. only this time it's to get fitter, stay thinner and be some fun me time. i want a ladies frame (cant get my leg up very well lol) chunky wheels, cos i don't really trust skinny ones and i don't need to race,oh and "normal" handle bars ie not the curly ones, so i guess this means a mountain bike. have seen one on website of centathlon i quite like but gonna check it out in person before i commit myself. i can't afford much but also don't want to buy a complete lemon all suggestions welcome . thanks


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## LexMad (29 Jun 2011)

Thanks for the info. Actually, dusted my bike off just a few months ago - has been sitting there since before the 40 stones.
Lex


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## Mad at urage (29 Jun 2011)

julesdavis1965 said:


> hiya just joined this forum. i had a bike i used purely to get me to work, 5 miles every day. no bus when i needed it! since giving up work to care for my disabled husband the weights creeping on so i decided to get back in the saddle. only this time it's to get fitter, stay thinner and be some fun me time. i want a ladies frame (cant get my leg up very well lol) chunky wheels, cos i don't really trust skinny ones and i don't need to race,oh and "normal" handle bars ie not the curly ones, so i guess this means a mountain bike. have seen one on website of centathlon i quite like but gonna check it out in person before i commit myself. i can't afford much but also don't want to buy a complete lemon all suggestions welcome . thanks


Doesn't necessarily mean a mountain bike: In fact it probably doesn't mean a mountain bike, as they are designed primarily for competitive (or at least 'sporty') offroading. 

Check out 'hybrid bikes' instead, they are for leisure use, on or off road in gentler conditions; usually have flat handlebars and wider tyres. Larger wheels than most mountain bikes should mean easier rolling along, no front suspension will mean lighter and easier to use.


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## Angelfishsolo (29 Jun 2011)

Wonderful post. Would just like to point out many hardtail (front suspension bikes) have a lock out mechanism that turns them [for all intents and purposes] into a rigid.


andyfromotley said:


> Frount suspension - Great for rough x country rides and a little tarmac based riding. Quite slow as theyre heavy and 'bouncing up and down is an in efficient use of energy. If it was a car it would be a RAV 4.


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## andym (29 Jun 2011)

Angelfishsolo said:


> Wonderful post. Would just like to point out many hardtail (front suspension bikes) have a lock out mechanism that turns them [for all intents and purposes] into a rigid.



... and if your fork is set up properly you shouldn't be bouncing up and down. A suspension fork is heavier though and only really useful on really rough terrain - on aggregate roads etc wider tyres play a bigger role.


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## julesdavis1965 (30 Jun 2011)

Mad@urage said:


> Doesn't necessarily mean a mountain bike: In fact it probably doesn't mean a mountain bike, as they are designed primarily for competitive (or at least 'sporty') offroading.
> 
> Check out 'hybrid bikes' instead, they are for leisure use, on or off road in gentler conditions; usually have flat handlebars and wider tyres. Larger wheels than most mountain bikes should mean easier rolling along, no front suspension will mean lighter and easier to use.


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## julesdavis1965 (30 Jun 2011)

have since seen a "classic" in the local bike shop! think it could also be described as a hybrid, is double the price (still only £200 tho) no suspension (don't need it with my rear lol) chunkyish wheels that are quite large in radius,has a basket and pannier rack,ladies frame. and looks and feels good to me . thanks for advice, i am so keen to actually get it home now and get riding


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## User16625 (12 Jul 2011)

To OP: Take out the paragraph about halfords but keep the warning about them having a poor reputation. I cant even buy a footpump from them without havin problems. Seriously! They are that BAD! Ok for lubes, cleaners etc but dont get a bike from them at all costs! In fact dont get a bike from anyone that isnt a specialised bike dealer. Those sets of wheels and sprockets you seen in argos, tescos etc are nothing more than metal bits.


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## Stu669 (13 Jul 2011)

I agree with this although made the mistake of buying my bike before this happened..... Took my new shining bike out the store got no more than 50 yards and the pedal fell off "we do a full bike build and inspection" they say there was no locking nut on the sprocket so needless to say I'm never going there again. My advice go to a local bicycle smithy they may be a little dearer but at least they know what they are doing


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## petecworld (17 Jul 2011)

I agree on the Halfords range for a beginner they have some great bikes and if you get one in the sale you can get some good kit for a very reasonable price however the build standards leave a lot to be desired from personal experience, if you buy a bike from them spend £30 at your LBS to give it a once over it will be the best £30 you have ever spent


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## AlexStevens (25 Jul 2011)

I am building my own bike, it is easier so you can choose what parts you want and you can make it anything you want.

I have done a online diary blog of it, take a look : http://buildingabicycle.tumblr.com/


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## User16625 (16 Aug 2011)

maxcherry said:


> Hay great my bike is a GTI



I have a ferrari and a ford mondeo apparantly. Would have thought mountain bikes would make better land rover discoveries. No, they are mondeos tho. Mondeos good off road?


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## Nordog (17 Aug 2011)

The Sperminator said:


> To OP: Take out the paragraph about halfords but keep the warning about them having a poor reputation. I cant even buy a footpump from them without havin problems. Seriously! They are that BAD! Ok for lubes, cleaners etc but dont get a bike from them at all costs! In fact dont get a bike from anyone that isnt a specialised bike dealer. Those sets of wheels and sprockets you seen in argos, tescos etc are nothing more than metal bits.




I fully agree to this post. The brake & shifters are cheap & nasty threads strips so easy. Bottom brackets have very little grease if any so any new 
rider will just put there new bike in the shed after the peddles start hitting the rear of the frame. Wheels buckle so easy too.


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## Louisearelly (23 Aug 2011)

Thanks for all the helpful advice. I have a road bike at the moment and whilst i do enjoy it, i want to be able to go off road a little more........I was thinking about heading to Halfords so i don't have to spend a fortune buying another bike, now i'm not so sure.....is it possible to buy a mountain bike/tourer type for around the £200 mark in a local bike shop??


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## Rykard (23 Aug 2011)

Do you have a Decathlon near you? They have a good range that is well thought of.


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## Mark Johnson (7 Sep 2011)

I think the one who thinks he is the best never learns anything and the one who is shy to ask will never learn anything. Biking is a great sport we should be open to ask for any technique.
*"The secret to mountain biking is pretty simple. The slower you go the more likely it is you’ll crash".*

[font="'Arial Narrow"]Quote Ocean - FamousQuotations and Inspirational Quotes[/font]


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## brokenflipflop (14 Sep 2011)

I have just started road biking and really enjoy it. I wanted a new bike and went to my LBS thinking they might be a bit dearer but a little more keen to get me on the right bike for me. The chap there asked what I was spending, I said about £1k (cyclescheme) and he promptly pulled the only racer there off the wall and said try that. I sat on it, dust, flat tyres and all and he said "that looks about right". Now I'm no bike expert but I thought that was pretty naff. It was a nice looking Giant with shimano tiagra but after extensive research on the web I found a Cannondale Caad 10 with Shimano 105 for £50 less than that Giant. It was delivered next day and I must say I'm delighted with it although I've nothing to compare it to (other than that dusty Giant in the LBS of course) and it was quite expensive for a newbie I suppose. My point is I thought my LBS were rubbish and my internet experience was very good. I'm now a very happy middle aged road cyclist dressed head to toe in spandex and I look a complete prat !


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## Sittingduck (14 Sep 2011)

A Grand for Tiagra seems well steep. Would be after 105 or equivalent for such an outlay. The dusty bike and flat tyres sounds like it hasn't been test ridden or sat on by any other customers for a fair while. Probably linked to the first point.


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## Holdsworth Cycler (15 Sep 2011)

Thanks for the overview. You are quite right, I came across my early 1970's Holdsworth in my son's storage unit and recalled the purchase over the phone while stationed in Morocco Africa prior to discharge from the Navy. Got it cleaned up and it is a jewel. Surprizingly I can't find information on the recent history of Holdsworth or even get model specifications on which bike I bought. I recall some form of catalog of models and the equipment/accessories available. I would like to know what I have so I can connect with others who know the breed. 
I 've got to go it is late here in Colorado Springs, CO and unfortunately the weather is beginning to remind us of coming changes. Soon skis and snowboards will have to replace my bike and again it will be in storeage. 
Hope this gets out somewhere to a member familiar with my equipment and can provide me some understanding of my old friend from 1972. 
I'll check back in the morning and see if this message landed anywhere...
I just noticed the insert image icon above but don't know how to do that. HELP!!! I would be glad to attach a photo of my long misplaced 'pony' and have someone help me with information.
Again, now the clock declares it is even later so good night to anyone who comes across my request. Thanks, Holdsworth cycler, 
Michael Van Wyk



andyfromotley said:


> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> 'hi newbie, which bike?'
> 
> ...


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## mickeyt69 (23 Sep 2011)

Cheers andy for taking the time to write this very informative and confirmed a few things i was unsure about. I bought a ferrari yesterday  !!!!


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## Benm61 (28 Sep 2011)

Hi guys.

Great thread to start with. I am currently in the market for a new bike and I think I have narrowed it down to a hybrid, but I just want to check I have got this right!

Basically I am starting a new job soon which is about 4.5 miles from my house. It's a bit of a pay cut so I am intending to save cash by cycling there. It's all on roads, generally good roads as well, (apart from a few potholes etc!). As well as the commute I wouldn't mind being to take the bike on a few rides on cycle paths and the like. Nothing too hectic really.

I have a bike at the moment but as far as I can tell its a hand-me-down racer from the late 70's or some such thing! At any rate considering I am quite a large chap I am not sure it's really fit for purpose.

So essentially I think a hybrid would be the right shout. Budget wise I cannot really afford too much. I was really hoping for something under £200. Unfortunately I am a cheap so and so!

Any further help would be great.

Thanks

Ben


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## GTTTM (28 Sep 2011)

Very helpful thread, wish I'd read it before buying my bike and my boys before that. Although having said that I was already avoiding Halfords like the plague, and Tesco, etc. Went to the LBS (only one I know of round here) and they kind of looked at me and talked to me like I was thick............ went to Wilco (not WIlkinson's lol) and they were incredibly helpful and appeared to know what they were talking about. 

None of the 3 bike sI've bought from there has fallen apart (yet..) so I think I got an ok bike.


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## MrMing (11 Nov 2011)

Where can i get good cycling gloves from???


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## hotfuzzrj (13 Nov 2011)

Benm61 - I wanted to get into cycling so I was riding a second hand Apollo/Halfords hybrid for a few months to see if I could keep it up, then recently upgraded to a Boardman hybrid, mostly for commuting but I have been on a few 20 and 30 mile rides too. It's great for commuting as the wheels are still very thin for speed but not as 'precious' as racers (!), so you can still do small curbs, minor pot holes etc... It was £495 but I got it on the cycle to work scheme which means over 12 months I only actually pay something like £370. I would heartily recommend this bike.

Mr Ming - I recently bought a pair of naff cycling gloves off e-bay, then was gifted a pair of Altura Ergofit gloves. Needless to say the Altura ones are very comfy, I would recommend these. You can get them from Evans, also off the internet.

(The naff ones I sold on to someone else!)

Happy cycling!


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## Monkspeed (12 Dec 2011)

Benm61 said:


> Hi guys.
> 
> Great thread to start with. I am currently in the market for a new bike and I think I have narrowed it down to a hybrid, but I just want to check I have got this right!
> 
> ...


 
If I were you I would head down to Decathlon, they have some nice Hybrids there for the money. I was looking at this on the weekend http://www.decathlon.co.uk/original-3-id_8165503.html
But get down there and have a look for yourself, you can even ride them in the store to see if you like it or not.


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## Michael Halliday (28 Dec 2011)

I was only reading this thread out of pure interest as it's the question I was looking for the answer to twenty years ago and found that answer in my LBS. Well presented though.
So I have a couple of Ferraris (one more of a GT the other a classic thoroughbread), a clapped out Mondeo (or would that be a Sierra due to it's age) but it has actually been up, down and across a few real mountains, it's been airborne more times than I care to remember and in and out of a lot of gloopy stuff. and now I have a shiney new Golf GTI with RAV4 suspesnion (which can very happily be locked off for a faster more energy efficient ride, in fact it usually is locked off for that very reason)


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## gavroche (2 Jan 2012)

My advice would be about cycle paths. If you feel confident about riding on the road, dont use cyclepaths!The few times I have used them, I find them dirty and full of nasty things to get into your tyres ( at least in my part of the world). So I always use roads as they are cleaner, provided you ride a metre away from gutter.


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## cyberknight (2 Jan 2012)

gavroche said:


> My advice would be about cycle paths. If you feel confident about riding on the road, dont use cyclepaths!The few times I have used them, I find them dirty and full of nasty things to get into your tyres ( at least in my part of the world). So I always use roads as they are cleaner, provided you ride a metre away from gutter.


+1 on that with a proviso ..

Sometimes the cycle path is the safer option if like me part of your commute takes in a section of road/ roundabout that is too dangerous to use so the cycle path is a safer option even if the chance of a flat is greater.Look into puncture resistant tyres if you need to use such facilities.


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## Michael Halliday (3 Jan 2012)

gavroche said:


> My advice would be about cycle paths. If you feel confident about riding on the road, dont use cyclepaths!The few times I have used them, I find them dirty and full of nasty things to get into your tyres ( at least in my part of the world). So I always use roads as they are cleaner, provided you ride a metre away from gutter.


Have to agree to an extent. All road users SHOULD know their own and each others place, rights and responsibilities. Cycle paths are often shared with pedestrians who don't seem to know how these facilities are supposed to work or, even worse, used by cyclists who don't seem to understand how shared facilities are supposed to work. There are times when it's safer all round to abandon cycle paths all together, particuclarly when they run past schools and it's chucking out time, recipe for disaster in my view.
Our government fund Bikeability training for schoolchildren in years 5-7 but that's all the funding they provide. More cyclists should have the option of correct training to cycle on the roads so they can build up their confidence but would anyone ever think to pay for that training privately or know how to obtain such training.


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## Scott Sargeant (20 Jan 2012)

Hi, I'm looking at road bikes up to £1500. I'm relatively new to cycling though have done a fair bit on a hybrid. I'm being steered towards a Moda Tempo - is this a wise choice for that sort of money? What are good alternatives?


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## Alansden (26 Jan 2012)

Cathryn said:


> This is indeed fab!! Gutted I have a volvo....but I did use the same analogy to the husband a while ago and he was gutted we're a pair of volvo drivers!!
> 
> Great advice though.


 Nothing wrong with a volvo car


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## Paul J (22 Feb 2012)

Maz said:


> Tell me about it...mate of mine went to Halfords to collect and ride home his son's bike (they are roughly the same height etc). The front wheel came off on his way home.


 
That doesn't surprise me about Halfords. My local branch wants a bike hut mechanic for £6.08 an hour, as they say "Pay peanuts expect a monkey!"


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## Paul J (22 Feb 2012)

edwina pentelow said:


> I went to my local bike shop and like you said they were really helpful didnt try to flog the most expensive bike and did ask lots of questions. They were great.
> Richardsons of Leigh on sea Essex. Really nice guys. No connection.
> Got a great bike just love it.
> not an essex lady.
> Irish


 
There used to be an excellent bike shop next to Chalwell Primary School on the London Road... If I remember correctly it was called Browning & Daughter. I bought my first racer there in 1986 a Peugeot and covered nearly 6K riding from Hadleigh to Shoeburyness everyday lol


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## col (22 Feb 2012)

There were 5 or 6 bike shops here years ago. Unfortunatley they closed and we have two that I know of, a halfords, and a very good one in town. Its a brave person that opens one at this time I think.


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## Speedywheelsjeans (27 Feb 2012)

stoatsngroats said:


> Great post Andy, I just have 1 concern...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 
Halfords sell decent bikes (ish... stay away from apollo and the likes) but in general the staff have not a clue. I had a 5 minute argument with a guy about rim tape in there.. heres the jist of it.

Me: 'excuse me do you have any 700c rim tape'
Him: 700c rim tape?
Me: 'yes, for my road bike wheel'
Him: *fondles around for a while finds rim tape* ... 'yes here'... *hands me package*
Me: 'This is MTB 28 inch rim tape'
Him: ' its fine just cut some off, MTB wheels are bigger than road bike wheels so it will fit'
Me: 'excuse me? seriously.. theres no way MTB rim tape will fit a road bike wheel'

at which point I got a lecture about the circumference of a circle and that the rim tape will fit the circumference because the diameter of a road bike wheel is smaller (Im an engineer, this is basic knowledge for me so i know i was right!.. you dont even need to be an engineer to figure that one out)... after a heated debate on the subject I offered him to measure the circumference of each rim.. he refused and I left after calling him a moron!

he even pointed out a MTB wheel and said

Him: 'you cant tell me that is smaller than the road bike wheel'
me: 'Wider yes.. but not a bigeer circumference!!'

I'll never be going there again. Especially if I have to deal with another saturday working boy racer who just wants to sell crap car aftermarkets parts.

There are some good halfords out there with people who have a clue, but you at least know with your LBS that is selling quality bike kit that they have some degree of knowledge about what they are speaking about.


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## Steampig (8 Mar 2012)

Now then. 
Unfit 30 something looking to get back fit and lose some timber.
From a footballing background and reasonably fit however... ive been plagued with ankle ligament problems (torn/damaged the left outside ones 6 times!) over the last 5 years and any playing and now even training has become non existent over the last 12-18 months.
4 weeks ago i underwent ankle reconstruction surgery which fingers crossed will sort out the long standing problem.
As a young teen i used to ride a fair bit on a big heavy MTB, me and my friends used to love watching the tour de france and go out on long rides/make time trial courses. (i was always miguel indurain!!  )
6 years ago i bought a cheap MTB to cycle to work on, after a couple of months the £100 bike was starting to fall apart so i bought a dawes giro 500. i loved it and could ride the 16 mile round trip nearly as quick as i could drive it!. 
After one of my many spells in a cast and a cold winter i stopped riding and sold it on to a friend. (really wish i hadn't!!)
Im looking to get a road bike and help speed up the rehab, i also really am looking forward to getting back on the bike as id never been as fit as i was whilst riding. (think im still secretly wanting to be big mig!!! )
Im based in a valley and there are loads of rolling hills around us to get my teeth stuck into. i also camp in edale derbyshire regularly and would love a crack at them hills round there eventually!!
Im looking for a decent entry level bike that i can get a few miles and hours on but that's not going to cost the earth.
I have a decent LBS near and have had a brief chat with them and they recommend this http://www.airevalleycycles.com/products.php?plid=m1b0s6p6993
Ive not managed to find a review on this so wondered if anyone has has one/knows anyone who has one? any hints, tips or advice would be great.
Cheers


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## IscaSteve (14 Mar 2012)

Great thread, emanating a conversation I had with a chum t'other day comparing relevant bikes to cars. Seems I have a vintage Ferrari, a not quite vintage Bugatti ....and a ubiquitous Volvo.
This is my Bugatti!!


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## col (14 Mar 2012)

Very nice!


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## Parastoo (31 Mar 2012)

Wow! Im riding a Land (R)Lover! though
Thanks Andy


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## tug benson (28 Apr 2012)

I get my first road bike this tuesday, took up cycling to shift a wee bit of weight, ended up enjoying it to much, so after a few months on my mountain bike i`ve decided to get a road bike, i don`t do massive journeys, i roughly do 25 mile 3 times a week, will be looking to step that up once i get my road bike, am lucky that the alloa area has some good cycle routes and edinburgh and glasgow is within distance for me.....i just have a wee question, how easy is it to get use to the gear changes?


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## Hookys (28 May 2012)

I ride a carera kraken bike which I have turned off the front suspension and changed tyres to 26x1.50 does anyone think this bike is ok for a Newcastle to Peterborough charity cycle ride or is there any more adjustments I can make to make my ride easier ?????


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## pad1979 (29 May 2012)

hi have just bought a 2nd hand giant xtc-4. i initially wanted a basic bike to commute but this one came up for 200 quid so i thought i might as well get in to it as a hobby, the problem is i have little inclination with these sort of things and there is a problem with the rear brake. it was very weak and had next to no fluid in the system. a couple of lads at work (unfortunately) persuaded me to let them try and bleed it through. there was some fluid in the system but they flushed it out of the back and told me to get some dot 4 fluid which i did, only we had no proper equipment and they made a right mess trying to tip the fluid in. i now realise the importance of doing this task properly having watched it done on youtube and i'm hoping they haven't done any permanent damage . i would like still like to attempt it myself and having looked in to it in more depth i realise there are kits available. there are a couple of giant bleeding kits online but im not sure if i need the roots version or the mph 3, because underneath the fluid reservoir it says g4 - will either or any of these kits fit my bike ? also should i be worried why the fluid needs replacing ? do i have a leak somewhere ? part of me feels like just getting a pro to do it, but how much would it cost and also i would rather learn to do it myself than always pay out to get it done. is it really a simple task ? any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks


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## thojj (8 Jun 2012)

I aquired a second hand Carrera Vanquish,(Bessie),having borrowed a Giant OCR 1 from a friend for a month in Feb.of last year.Bessie faithfuly allowed me to learn how to ride,suffered friendly ridicule from Trek etc. owners and never let me down in just on 14000 miles in 14 months.Without doubt she was the reason for my great love of cycling.
I bought a 2010 Cannondale six carbon 105,(Katrina),for a price that was so good that I checked with the local cycle clubs and police to make sure she had not been stolen!
I agree entirely with the Halfords problem having been reliably informed by a *mechanic* that I should not put more than 50 psi in my tyres..
Bessie worked for me,Im not sure who the mechanics work for though....


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## Psycolist (16 Jun 2012)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


 Good job


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## Psycolist (16 Jun 2012)

stoatsngroats said:


> Great post Andy, I just have 1 concern...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 My view is that Halfords are thier own worst enemy. They try to be all things to all road users but employ mostly part time staff on minimum wage that have no formal training or knowledge of the products they sell. I'm sure each shop has a clued up manager and maybe 1 or 2 'specialists' but whats the chance of Joe Public actually speaking to one of these. They reap the crops of the seeds they sow.


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## Norm (16 Jun 2012)

Psycolist said:


> My view is that Halfords are thier own worst enemy.


I see they came bottom of the Which? survey. Again.


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## Sandra6 (29 Jun 2012)

Loving the advice, not so happy with the hating on Halfords. Guess where I work??? 
I think Halfords are like any shop the staff are key, some are great (the guys in our bike hut are amazing) and some, sadly, are not so great. Part of the problem when working for a chain is that you have to sell their products which are not always what you want to recommend. Try asking the person selling you the bike what they ride. None of our staff (apart from me) have an apollo. 
Anyway, loving that my specialized hybrid is a gti - but then my appollo is a hybrid too and it's definitely more of a lada!


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## Levity (1 Jul 2012)

Great information here but I sorry i am still going to ask a which bike type of question. I know the type of bikes but can't decide what to go for as I want a bike to do everything. I am keen on doing 3-5k quick cycles for fitness and more longer leisure cycles and possibly a charity ride or two. A cyclocross was suggested to me as a compromise. I am 49, getting fitter but with back that sometimes plays up and knees that can't put up with jogging. Currently I cycle occasionally 5k on my old rust bucket of a raleigh tourer that I got 2nd hand in the early 90s. I am on a budget of £700


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## ulidia2012 (4 Jul 2012)

Hi all, very informative thread, ty for all the contributions. i have bought my first bile for some time, a Giant Defy2, i plan to use it for commuting - 20 miles round trip 2 days a week initially but building up to 5, with longer trips at weekends.

I am just looking a tip or 2 for someone returning to cycling, not the obvious, panniers, keeping dry but something i may have missed just really good common sense advice for someone returning to cycling after 20 years.

Thanks


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## slippy900 (7 Jul 2012)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


 Hey Andy how you doing? That was quite impressive you must have a lot a free time on your hands either that or its raining and you cant get out on the beast lol... Very helpful advise, i've just purchased my first bike since my old bmx 30+ years ago and i'm gagging to get out on it, i had borrowed a good bike for few months it was a Cannondale 6300 but i came off it twice first time i twisted my knee the chain came off while i was in a low gear pounding up a hill lucky enough the traffic was behind me a good hundred yards the second time is more prepared so i took it in to get serviced and was told the teeth on the crank spindle thingy was worn causing the chain to come off but it was going to cost £170 so neadless to say i gave it back, so that put me off buying second hand which is ashame cos i wanted a good branded name but i decided to buy a Viking Torino which is kinda budget but all i can afford, i hope its going to be ok because if anything goes wrong with it it will end my cycling foreva!!!! I will next year if all goes well upgrade to a greater beast and would appreciate it if you could recommend me a good quality bike thats light and has got top components and around £800 bracket? I apologise for writing such a long letter....


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## blown out the back (22 Jul 2012)

Hi fair stab and informative all i would add is try as many as you can you will quickly find whats right and whats not keep upb the good work tudaroo


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## songsforpolarbears (31 Jul 2012)

this is a super resource. Thanks very much!


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## moonjiver (5 Aug 2012)

I appreciate your trouble in posting all this, think it ought to be given some kind of medal! After a few years, I'm getting back into cycling and enjoying it but .. where to start with a new modern bike? It's a bewildering choice.

Thanks to a lot of advice from the forum, I'm now looking at basic hybrids to start me off, maybe upgrade later. Good for local poodling around and all the potholes but also comfortable for longer runs. I spent years on drops but rather think that sleek racers are not for modern road conditions. You need something much sturdier and also the wide flat bars on bikes I've tried seem to make them very controllable.

Currently looking at one or two Vikings, a bottom range Claud Butler and .. a Raleigh Grande from Halfords!! I know about the poor assembly issues, trouble is I found that one very comfortable, breaks and gears terrific, and the frame and whole set-up seemed roomier for my 6ft height.

Sure some people will shoot me down and tell me to pay out more!


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## Spiky Simon (6 Aug 2012)

moonjiver said:


> I spent years on drops but rather think that sleek racers are not for modern road conditions. You need something much sturdier and also the wide flat bars on bikes I've tried seem to make them very controllable.!


 
I think a hybrid would be fine to get you going again if that's what suits you. However, I would disagree with the above -- even the potholiest, muddiest roads around here are fine on road bikes.


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## David Garside (10 Aug 2012)

Hello. I've had a quick look around the forum and cannot find an answer to this question...I apologise if there is one and i've not found it.
How do you actually size the bike up that you require...I'm 5'6" and have an inside leg of 31". I know there is a relation to the distance "bum to pedal and bum to floor"....but how and what do you do to get the correct one for you.
Sorry if this seems a very basic and stupid question.


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## Get In The Van (10 Aug 2012)

David Garside said:


> Hello. I've had a quick look around the forum and cannot find an answer to this question...I apologise if there is one and i've not found it.
> How do you actually size the bike up that you require...I'm 5'6" and have an inside leg of 31". I know there is a relation to the distance "bum to pedal and bum to floor"....but how and what do you do to get the correct one for you.
> Sorry if this seems a very basic and stupid question.


 
Alright mate, i would make a seperate post on the beginners board for this question, might get missed here.


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## David Garside (10 Aug 2012)

Ok will do...thanks....


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## Rex (15 Aug 2012)

Regarding setting up/assembling a bike. I have no reason to support Halfords as I havn't bought a bike yet, but I guess it's like the motor trade . It's not the make of car you buy. It's the dealer and more to the point the guy who actually 'lay's hands' on your car, or bike in this case that's important.


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## Guygreenwood (31 Aug 2012)

Hello hello hello. Gti. Ford Capri. Mini bus. Or just a old rally with 5 gears it's just a pleasure cycling 15 mile's a day weather you go 35 mph or 10 mph just enjoye. And yes great comment's. And safe cycling to you all.


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## Sean Devlin (31 Aug 2012)

This is more of an observation .....many people joining our road club bought a hybrid which they promptly dump and buy a road bike. It can be an expensive mistake. So if you only want one bike think carefully about what you want to do. They arn't much use in a road club and I can't believe they would last long on a trail. I have both ....I made that mistake. I use the hybrid for comuting just to keep the road bike clean!


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## Rex (31 Aug 2012)

I spent all my working life connected with the motor trade so I always draw comparisons from that . I would say it's impossible to buy a bike that suits every purpose . I didn't want a tourer as I won't be doing that kind of cycling . With my road bike I can carry a few bit's and pieces, one being my DSLR camera . I wear a good quality bum bag that holds the camera and a few other bits and pieces . Going back to the cars comparison it's best not to buy a three ton Discovery if your'e only taking the kids to school and doing a bit of shopping . Don't buy a Micra if you need to move tons of straw around, and so on . Much the same with bikes I guess .


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## Reece (8 Oct 2012)

Great informative thread.


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## tony111 (12 Oct 2012)

Gonna go to my LBS to buy a hybrid, but have been looking at Evans website to read up on different manufacturers and specifications just to educate myself a bit.The thing is I have heard of shimano so assume they're decent gears, but are the bikes that have a different gear ok, or even better? Which bikes have a granny gear(I'm 55, will probably need one).I know the bike shop can put me straight on these points but I'm gonna have a dozen questions to ask em and might forget the important ones.


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## MaccyD (14 Oct 2012)

Great thread. Im new here, and to cycling, have recently decided to take up cycling - my bike is a dual suspension mountain bike, cost about 120 pounds when I was 16. Im now 24, so its a bit out of size and a bit worse for wear. Recently found I had a problem going up hills on tarmac/ footpaths despite it being a mountain bike and the brakes were stuck on! So a complete newbie - however- I am considering (have been blackmailed) into doing both a triathalon next year and the london to brighton, is it worth trying to complete these on this bike do you reckon, or going for a racer? And is it worth getting used to the old bike or get a new one for a couple of hundred and train to that?

BTW this is the only place I've seen the different types of bikes explained in leymans terms! Great idea for the comparison between bikes and cars!


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## NickJ95GB (3 Nov 2012)

MaccyD said:


> Great thread. Im new here, and to cycling, have recently decided to take up cycling - my bike is a dual suspension mountain bike, cost about 120 pounds when I was 16. Im now 24, so its a bit out of size and a bit worse for wear. Recently found I had a problem going up hills on tarmac/ footpaths despite it being a mountain bike and the brakes were stuck on! So a complete newbie - however- I am considering (have been blackmailed) into doing both a triathalon next year and the london to brighton, is it worth trying to complete these on this bike do you reckon, or going for a racer? And is it worth getting used to the old bike or get a new one for a couple of hundred and train to that?
> 
> BTW this is the only place I've seen the different types of bikes explained in leymans terms! Great idea for the comparison between bikes and cars!


i started on a hybrid but switched to a roadie and my average speed increased by 8mph (very heavy hybrid)
i really recommend the B'Twin Triban 3 - very cheap, comfortable and very very fast, overtake everyone at 19mph average speeds.

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-3-id_8167038.html


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## surfatwork (5 Dec 2012)

good advice, thanks


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## mpl (6 Dec 2012)

Hi newbie, which bike?
I'm looking at bikes for commuting but also the occasional country ride. Had a chat in my local bike shop. I know the owners through mutual friends so I think I can trust his advice but always worth a second opinion. He pointed me in the direction of Merida Crossway 10-V and 20MD in respect of my budget. Has anyone got experience of these bikes and which of the two models would be the better buy? (Apologies if these have been mentioned somewhere else but have yet to trawl through threads)
Thanks in advance
Martin


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## PpPete (7 Dec 2012)

mpl said:


> Hi newbie, which bike?
> I'm looking at bikes for commuting but also the occasional country ride. Had a chat in my local bike shop. I know the owners through mutual friends so I think I can trust his advice but always worth a second opinion. He pointed me in the direction of Merida Crossway 10-V and 20MD in respect of my budget. Has anyone got experience of these bikes and which of the two models would be the better buy? (Apologies if these have been mentioned somewhere else but have yet to trawl through threads)
> Thanks in advance
> Martin


 
Both appear to be at the Mountain bike end of the "Hybrid" spectrum.
Suspension is *not needed* until you get into lumpy bumpy off-road stuff, worse it's just extra weight to carry around when on the road. Ordinary gravel tracks are fine without suspension. 
I've not read the whole thread either, but plenty of folks have bought heavyish hybrids and then regretted, either stopping cycling altogether or later spending more money on road bikes.


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## mpl (7 Dec 2012)

PpPete said:


> Both appear to be at the Mountain bike end of the "Hybrid" spectrum.
> Suspension is *not needed* until you get into lumpy bumpy off-road stuff, worse it's just extra weight to carry around when on the road. Ordinary gravel tracks are fine without suspension.
> I've not read the whole thread either, but plenty of folks have bought heavyish hybrids and then regretted, either stopping cycling altogether or later spending more money on road bikes.


 
Thanks for replying. The suspension on the bikes in question is lockable so can be "turned off" when on roads. I'm not sure quite how much off road I will do but want something that will be able to cope with something more than gravel tracks if need be. I cannot really go higher than the price of these bikes and I'm also keen to use my local independent shop so I know I am limiting my choices.
Merida also seem to be a bit of an unknown quantity but going by "you get what you pay for" philosophy they seem to be a step up from Halford/Cycle King type bikes.
I didn't realise buying a bike would be so complicated- last one I bought was over 25 years ago- they were simpler times!


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## PpPete (7 Dec 2012)

As you say bikes were simpler then.... but guess what, my old steel bike from that era, without suspension of course, copes perfectly well with stony tracks, mud, grass, tree roots, whatever I dare to throw it at. I just change the tyres to knobbly cyclo-cross ones for a bit more grip, and get off the saddle and use my knees as suspension. We did it back then, why not do it now?
So you might have to walk some brief sections if it gets really gnarly... but the inconvenience of that compared with the pain of lugging around a suspension fork (whether locked-out or not) on the daily commute (assuming that is on road?)
Nothing against Merida, or your local independent shop... but get them to show you something where the £££ of your limited budget has been put into something other than suspension which, at best, you will rarely use, and even more rarely need. In the Merida range that seems to be the "Speeder" range?

OK so I'm a reactionary old fart who owns a few different bikes, but none of them with suspension, so feel free to ignore me.


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## Psyclist (20 Dec 2012)

Don't know if the O.P is still active, but another bit of advice - When you buy a brand new bike, get spare mech hangers from the bike manufacturer for if/when the original breaks. I made this mistake and had a very hard time finding one. Had to salvage one from a spares or repairs bike on eBay, meaning I had to bid on the frame which cost £50 in the end, just to get the mech hanger!


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## Biker Joe (2 Jan 2013)

Good post and a lot of useful comments.
Nice one


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## jim55 (2 Jan 2013)

NickJ95GB said:


> i really recommend the B'Twin Triban 3 - very cheap, comfortable and very very fast, overtake everyone at 19mph average speeds.
> 
> http://www.decathlon.co.uk/triban-3-id_8167038.html


hahahahah ,19 mph average ,very good ,whos this ,mr wiggins


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## Kookas (3 Jan 2013)

jim55 said:


> hahahahah ,19 mph average ,very good ,whos this ,mr wiggins



Wouldn't pro cyclists would be more into the mid 20s, possibly even approaching 30?

Also, I'm glad to see so many recommendations for the Triban 3 around here (it's pretty much the sole answer to every 'what's the best budget road bike' thread). Got one on the way myself.


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## antnee (3 Jan 2013)

The B'Twin Triban 3 seem almost to good to be true, though just read two reviews of it and the praise for it seem unequaled, though that said I bought and perhaps regret a hybred Trek which has lockable suspention and though use it on many surfaces up till now purley as the roads round here are very potholed. I could have spent less and got one of these. worth more thought I think... Sorry about the spelling Its just not my forte!


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## jim55 (3 Jan 2013)

Kookas said:


> Wouldn't pro cyclists would be more into the mid 20s, possibly even approaching 30?
> 
> Also, I'm glad to see so many recommendations for the Triban 3 around here (it's pretty much the sole answer to every 'what's the best budget road bike' thread). Got one on the way myself.


well if somebody can mantain an average of 19 mph then id say thats pretty good ,im not talking top speed just an average


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## Supersuperleeds (3 Jan 2013)

jim55 said:


> hahahahah ,19 mph average ,very good ,whos this ,mr wiggins


 
I am averaging in the high fifteens and I am old and over weight and on a front suspension hybrid. I bet there are a lot of riders on here that average 19mph


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## jim55 (3 Jan 2013)

yeah no doubt there are ,but id wager that guys (and girls )who are averaging that speed are not doing so on (lets face it ,good bike .but)on an entry level road bike ,i just think theres a world of difference between 15 and 19 ave (btw im in a town commuting and im ave 13,5 ish !


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## sddg7tfl (3 Jan 2013)

I average 15mph on a mountain bike running slicks and 17mph on a conventional road bike.
Most of my rides are after work on my third bike, a steel forked hybrid thats been converted to drops, she's a lump of a bike and only 
just matches the mountain bikes average speed!!


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## Sally McSorley (4 Jan 2013)

I think its going to depend a lot on where you live too! :-) I can only dream of average speeds of 19mph. On an average one hour ride I am often doing 1,500 - 2,000 ft worth of climbs.


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## malcermie (4 Jan 2013)

antnee said:


> The B'Twin Triban 3 seem almost to good to be true, though just read two reviews of it and the praise for it seem unequaled, though that said I bought and perhaps regret a hybred Trek which has lockable suspention and though use it on many surfaces up till now purley as the roads round here are very potholed. I could have spent less and got one of these. worth more thought I think... Sorry about the spelling Its just not my forte!


I hope the Triban is that good.........mines on it's way


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## Kies (5 Jan 2013)

The Triban 3 is a great bike. Only weak point appears to be the wheels. A nice upgrade in 6 months time ,with some decent brake pads and you have a very good bike!


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## Kookas (7 Jan 2013)

Kies said:


> The Triban 3 is a great bike. Only weak point appears to be the wheels. A nice upgrade in 6 months time ,with some decent brake pads and you have a very good bike!



It is, I love going on the drops down descents on mine. Shame that it seems inevitable that an inverted speed bump or just a good old pothole will jump out at you from nowhere.


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## malcermie (11 Jan 2013)

Only taken my new Triban3 out once so far and now snow on the way! Still never mind soon be spring!


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## Supersuperleeds (23 Feb 2013)

Just found this, probably been posted before, but will no doubt be useful to somebody and worth psoting again

http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/commuting/article/trav20111121-Effective-Traffic-Riding-pt-1-0


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## antnee (26 Feb 2013)

Supersuperleeds said:


> Just found this, probably been posted before, but will no doubt be useful to somebody and worth psoting again
> 
> http://www.britishcycling.org.uk/commuting/article/trav20111121-Effective-Traffic-Riding-pt-1-0


Interesting item. 
I see this item and having read it I now seem to think that this is an approach I have adopted while riding around town. As the article states you must be seen (not to sure if some vehicle drivers are even aware of the cycle rider) so why can't we take our place on the highway prominently. After all we are as much entitled too?

Ok I always wear a high visibility top and to date don’t have to travel after dark so am cutting down the odds of an accident (collision?) 

Oh and while I’m just up here on my little soapbox. 

Everyone who takes a driving test should have a weeks cycling course as part of the test what does anybody think about this I know it’s a bit of a minefield type of subject and probably someone must have posted this type of thing before?
If the moderators think it should have a separate thread, please move it
Regards Antnee


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## squeeze321 (1 Mar 2013)

Very helpful advice Andy.

I have not ridden a bike for about 28 years and I am about to purchase one within the next few months. Apparantly, once you learn to ride a bike you never forget and with a very expensive insulin pump attached to me I am hoping to stay on the dry side of the canal banking for as long as possible.


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## antnee (1 Mar 2013)

No you don't forget Squeeze. But just take it easy when you start I did​​As I was a non rider for years then just started again about four years ago and used to dismount just to turn right if you have any traffic free cycle paths near by use them first perhaps.​Ok I realise you probably worked all this out for yourself so don't take it the wrong way.​I hope you have many happy hours on your bike​Regards antnee​


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## squeeze321 (1 Mar 2013)

Thanks for your your advice antnee,

I live about 7 miles out of Greater Manchester and I am quite lucky to live here really, seem to be in a good location for Country parks and canals I am a little nervous of traffic but in time I think it will be fine. I am sure that a little 'road nerves' are probably normal and I am cautious by nature so I am sure everything will be fine.


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## SWSteve (3 Mar 2013)

squeeze321 said:


> I am a little nervous of traffic but in time I think it will be fine. I am sure that a little 'road nerves' are probably normal and I am cautious by nature so I am sure everything will be fine.


I wasn't massively comfortable when traveling through traffic at first, confidence has grown with time...it's just a battle to be confident and not get cocky as my parts will break before a cars do. Just go and do some road miles when they are quiet, don't jump straight into rush hour traffic


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## fatalbert (5 Apr 2013)

This is great advice, thanks very much


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## chernij (10 Apr 2013)

Good stuff - thanks!


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## Louch (14 Apr 2013)

I had my first fully confident roads run today. Until now have stuck to a lot of cycle paths . Came to a t junction today and went along road instead of path and stayed on it rest of the way. Now more concerned re dogs on paths than cars on roads. Made my ride a lot better


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## chernij (14 Apr 2013)

Louch said:


> I had my first fully confident roads run today. Until now have stuck to a lot of cycle paths . Came to a t junction today and went along road instead of path and stayed on it rest of the way. Now more concerned re dogs on paths than cars on roads. Made my ride a lot better


Congrats, always good to hear there's confidence! The worst thing to do is hesitate at T-junctions and you did great!


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## ethics58 (2 May 2013)

Very good post. I love your tips and advices. I am just a newbie and this is the very first thing I need. Thanks!


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## Bill Soens (19 May 2013)

Hello each.

I read with interest all the missives from those who are newcomers - more or less- to those who are considering moving on to competing in various types of events, whether this be road racing, track (velodrome) etc. Quite a big step really but one that is helped on by joining a suitable and well established club. I learned to ride a two-wheeler (so I was told by my mother) when I was just under three years old. That would have been 1940 !!! To this end I enjoyed what was probably quite the finest time for cycling and bike-racing - when roads were fairly empty of traffic and we saw the change across to the Continental type of road racing, not without some Luddites kicking and screaming about it ! Now in my dotage I have been contributing to a new website www.outdoor-expert.co.uk in an attempt to advise those who are looking at the onward step of actually competing. I think the beauty of bike-racing is that it caters for all abilities with a sensible category system; you're not going to get your legs torn off by some Olympian every week. 

May I wish all of you all the best for the future. Bill Soens.


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## NealM (31 May 2013)

Great advice from the OP, many thanks for taking the time to put this together .


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## Rickshaw Phil (18 Jun 2013)

Having looked through this thread there doesn't appear to be much about setting up the bike when you have it.

I gave this advice a few days ago which has received some favourable comments, so thought I'd share here too:


Rickshaw Phil said:


> Just a thought, I don't think anyone has mentioned saddle height yet. If it is too low (very common with newbies) it will make the legs ache quite badly, especially around the knees.
> 
> An easy way to get it about right is to set the height so that with the *heel* on the pedal your leg is straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke. The leg will then have roughly the right amount of bend when the ball of the foot is on the pedal and you can fine tune it from there.
> 
> I hope this is of use.


 For context, the thread it came from is here: link.

For complete beginners you might feel uncertain, as with the saddle at the right height you are likely to be unable to touch the ground when seated except on tiptoe. The trick here is when coming to a halt, transfer your weight onto the pedals and step down to the ground as you stop - very easy and once done 3 or 4 times it'll become natural.


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## Roadrider48 (21 Jun 2013)

Hi all. I did post this elsewhere, but here seems more appropriate. I am currently speeding around good ol' London town on a Lombardo MTB. And have been for a good few months now. Before that, I had a real cheap MTB from Halfords (Trax I think....£80 all in). Anyway, I'm digressing slightly. The point of this post is that I'm now about to buy a road bike. My budget is modest (£400). But I have seen in Halfords the "Carrera Zelos" for 3 or 4 hundred quid. I was wondering if anyone could give me their opinion or guide me to another bike perhaps. (£400 is not a lot I know, but at the moment that's the best I can do and I am desperate for a lighter more agile bike) thanks in advance for any advice anyone may offer.


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## themosquitoking (21 Jun 2013)

A mate of mine got the carrera virtuoso a few weeks back and is having a lot of fun on it.


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## Roadrider48 (21 Jun 2013)

themosquitoking said:


> A mate of mine got the carrera virtuoso a few weeks back and is having a lot of fun on it.


Thanks for that Mosquitoking. I'll maybe take a closer look at the Carrera next week. Any comments gratefully received.


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## Louch (21 Jun 2013)

Tribian from decathalon gets a lot of love on here and is around that range


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## chernij (21 Jun 2013)

Louch said:


> Tribian from decathalon gets a lot of love on here and is around that range


 
I've heard the Triban 3 is the go-to bike for newbies, however I hear a lot of rage out there over the new white bike having no carbon forks?!


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## Roadrider48 (21 Jun 2013)

Thanks everyone. I just googled the Triban 3 and it looks good. Spec not too bad for the price either. I also saw the "Specialised Allez" at a tad over £400....Any thoughts on that?


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## t.w.lovell (27 Jun 2013)

Having trouble trying to track down a triban 3 at the moment, on eBay and new. After a 57. Any advice?


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## Roadrider48 (27 Jun 2013)

Decathlon.co.uk sell them.


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## Jez (10 Jul 2013)

Same old question for me if you kind people wouldn't mind helping?

I currently run a lot but want to slowly move over to more bike riding and limit the impact on my knees. Plan is to take it seriously but build up slowly, i can run 20k no problem but i appreciate there is more than just fitness when it comes to cycling.

I'm thinking along the line of a hybrid so i can do road distances as well as they odd cycle path a long the river near me, not planning on any mountains or rough terrain.

The main purpose will be for fitness, roads and the aforementioned cycle paths.

I run three times a week currently and plan on cycling the other 2 times a week and having the weekend off, building up to replace the running completely so ideally want the bike to last rather than have to replace it after a year or so..

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.


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## SpokeyDokey (10 Jul 2013)

Jez said:


> Same old question for me if you kind people wouldn't mind helping?
> 
> I currently run a lot but want to slowly move over to more bike riding and limit the impact on my knees. Plan is to take it seriously but build up slowly, i can run 20k no problem but i appreciate there is more than just fitness when it comes to cycling.
> 
> ...


 

Well, firstly you sound like you have your head screwed on right re the slow build up and getting some longevity from your purchase.

You sound like you are fit and whilst it will help cycling fitness is different to running as you understand. However, with the distances you run getting bike fit should be relatively easy.

My guess is that you will want to get a hoof on as you are a fit person so I'd go drop bar tbh. Have you thought about a CX bike? In essence these are slightly heavier road bikes (not enough to make a jot of real world difference) that can take in some offroad work (fire trails etc) with ease. 

Just pointing out another option for you although yes, there are some cracking hybrids eg Boardmans out there.


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## Jez (10 Jul 2013)

SpokeyDokey said:


> Well, firstly you sound like you have your head screwed on right re the slow build up and getting some longevity from your purchase.
> 
> You sound like you are fit and whilst it will help cycling fitness is different to running as you understand. However, with the distances you run getting bike fit should be relatively easy.
> 
> ...


 

Something like this you mean?

I should probably add i would prefer straight bars, for the only reason is i prefer them more to 'racer' type ones. I wouldn't rule that type out if i found the right bike just if i had the choice, would be straight bars with perhaps some of those resty ones. Full of the lingo me..


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## SpokeyDokey (11 Jul 2013)

Jez said:


> Something like this you mean?
> 
> I should probably add i would prefer straight bars, for the only reason is i prefer them more to 'racer' type ones. I wouldn't rule that type out if i found the right bike just if i had the choice, would be straight bars with perhaps some of those resty ones. Full of the lingo me..


 

Yes, something like that or something like this for a flat bar:

http://www.boardmanbikes.com/hybrid/hybrid_pro.html


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## Jez (11 Jul 2013)

SpokeyDokey said:


> Yes, something like that or something like this for a flat bar:
> 
> http://www.boardmanbikes.com/hybrid/hybrid_pro.html


 
Yeah been looking at them but a little put off by them only been available at Halfords and thus only serviced at Halfords


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## araapatlio (16 Jul 2013)

I did what the OP suggested, I dusted off a friends old mountain bike last summer to get to and from archery. Whilst the frame is too small and the gears are a joke, it serves it's purpose. But now that the cycling bug has well and truly bit me, I've been going out on the roads with but it is simply insufficient.

I'm looking at getting a Triban 3 - as they are, by all accounts, almost the mandatory beginner bike - in fact I've been considering it for a year now. However, given that they appear to be in short supply at the moment (I've even tried ordering one through their French site to no avail). If I can't get my hands on one, would I be better off going for the Triban 5a for £430 than the white Triban 3a for £300? Money is an issue, but I'd much rather pay that little bit extra now than have to buy new wheels and a carbon fork in the relatively near future.

I'll be heading to the local Decathlon tomorrow anyway, if there is a nice new shiny 57" red racer there I will snap it up, but just in case the cycling fairy does not answer my prayers - what should I do...?


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## Ivan (21 Jul 2013)

Hello to all, 

I am a completely new member, just registered, and since I am not a fan of opening new threads for every single question, I have decided to post here. My question is "of that kind", yeah... what bike should I get? I did some reading and searching, stumbled across this thread, it's useful for understanding what *kind* of bike to look for. But how do I know which ones are good? Or is it just as simple as: the more expensive - the better?

Anyway... some background: I am not completely new to bike riding, I have had a cheap mountain bike since I was 14-15 years old. I really enjoyed riding it on dirt roads, or you know.. in the mountains, although I mostly used it on the town streets. And with that kind of streets (I'm from a small town in an eastern European country) you really needed a mountain bike, they were awful. Due to my bike a cheap s**t, I would always have something to fix at the end of the week, sometimes even at the end of the day. At least that helped me learn about all the parts and how to repair/replace them. I've had this bike for almost 10 years now, and I have literally changed everything on it, except the frame and the rims.
I've been living in the UK for the past four years, and no longer own a bike. And since I've got a birthday coming up, I've been thinking about treating myself with a new one. My budget... lets just say it's not amazing. 
I've looked at websites like sportsdirect, halfords, argos, amazon, and while they have bikes from all price ranges, I really don't want to make the mistake of buying another one that would start falling apart on the second week. The problem is: I don't know any good bike manufacturers. Someone on the forum suggested names like Carrera, Trek, Giant, Specialised (from another thread). I had a look at their websites, and their prices... and then I looked away...

What would you guys suggest? Any other websites I should check? What brands should I stay away from?
Ideally I would like to have a mountain bike, that I would use for rides in the park or on the road. Parks around me are kind of half dirt track - half asphalt, kinda on the rough side. But I mostly prefer the mountain bike for the looks... I just can't see myself on anything else. Front suspension would be nice.

So that's about it... what do you think?


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## araapatlio (22 Jul 2013)

Have you looked at Decathlon? >> http://www.decathlon.co.uk/C-359112-mountain-bikes My step-daughter has a decent MTB from there, I've just bought their highly rated beginner road-bike and I will be replacing my MTB soon and I'll be getting it from there.


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## bendanuk (23 Jul 2013)

Hi all, guess what - another 'which bike' question!
I'm looking at starting cycling having not ridden a bike since being a kid (im 38) . After searching the internet i came across this forum about 2 weeks ago, joined and have been lurking ever since. I've decided on a hybrid bike to get started as i will be using it on the road and canal/hills. I'm looking at around £300 budget for the bike just in case its not for me and i dont waste too much money.What would you recommend between these? I've seen the carrera subway but not sure i like the look of it. my LBS sells trek bikes with a trek 2012 7.0 fx at £325 and 2013 7.1 fx at £375, is there a big difference? the boardman performance hybrid race bike at £386 looks good also but then im getting further away from £300. help please!


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## Rickshaw Phil (24 Jul 2013)

bendanuk said:


> Hi all, guess what - another 'which bike' question!
> I'm looking at starting cycling having not ridden a bike since being a kid (im 38) . After searching the internet i came across this forum about 2 weeks ago, joined and have been lurking ever since. I've decided on a hybrid bike to get started as i will be using it on the road and canal/hills. I'm looking at around £300 budget for the bike just in case its not for me and i dont waste too much money.What would you recommend between these? I've seen the carrera subway but not sure i like the look of it. my LBS sells trek bikes with a trek 2012 7.0 fx at £325 and 2013 7.1 fx at £375, is there a big difference? the boardman performance hybrid race bike at £386 looks good also but then im getting further away from £300. help please!


Hi bendanuk and .

The Trek bikes you've listed are decent ones. My brother has the 7.1fx and likes it.

Looking at the specs, the differences are down to details: the 7.1fx has the slightly better Acera rear derailleur instead of Tourney, an Aheadset type stem instead of a quill stem and different spec (probably lighter) wheels.

The "mega range" gear is nice to have - in lowest gear you should be able to wind your way up practically any hill.

Things I would point out are that my brother didn't get on with the standard saddle and that he found the supplied tyres had poor grip on wet roads.


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## Boon 51 (24 Jul 2013)

Just on a personal note..
Look at where you will be riding, if you have a lot of hills then get a bike with low gears it saves a lot of heart ache.
Things like saddles are hard to get right first time and most people change them.
PS.. Have a few quid over to get a pair of padded shorts.

Enjoy your ridding


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## bendanuk (24 Jul 2013)

thanks for the replies, any recommendations on saddles if the standard one isnt so good. also, i know nothing about gears i've never had a bike with them! how do you know how many low gears its got?


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## Profpointy (24 Jul 2013)

Jez said:


> Something like this you mean?
> 
> I should probably add i would prefer straight bars, for the only reason is i prefer them more to 'racer' type ones. I wouldn't rule that type out if i found the right bike just if i had the choice, would be straight bars with perhaps some of those resty ones. Full of the lingo me..



Well... Personal preference and all that, and flat bars are fine if you don't want a choice of hand positions (4 distinct choices on drops), if you never cycle into a headwind, only cycle slowly, and won't be going up hills, and don't mind going slower for more effort. Sarcastic reply aside, some people do need flats, eg if have a bad back, but that aside very few go back to flats after changing. Something like a tourer or audax bike would be fine for canal tow paths and the like, as would a cycle cross bike - which will do pretty rough stuff not just trails. The only snag with drop barred bikes is they often have rather high gearing for hilly terrain - which is a marketting thing rather than a snag with drop bars per se. Tourers, cyclo cross, and audax style bike normally have more sensible (ie lower) gears though.


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## Boon 51 (25 Jul 2013)

bendanuk said:


> thanks for the replies, any recommendations on saddles if the standard one isnt so good. also, i know nothing about gears i've never had a bike with them! how do you know how many low gears its got?


 
On the rear cassette you would be looking at 11-28 as about standard and an 11-32 or 11-34 which has bigger cogs for hillier climbs..
But your bike shop will know what to advise?


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## Rickshaw Phil (25 Jul 2013)

bendanuk said:


> thanks for the replies, any recommendations on saddles if the standard one isnt so good.


Saddles are an incredibly personal thing so it's really difficult to recommend a good one. What one person thinks of as a comfy sofa of a saddle might be an instrument of torture to another, and returning to cycling after a big gap you'll ache for the first few rides anyway.

What I'd suggest is getting yourself measured. Some cycle shops (Specialized dealers in particular) have a device nicknamed the arsometer, which measures the width of your sit bones. If your saddle is the right width you've got a better chance of it being comfortable. 


bendanuk said:


> also, i know nothing about gears i've never had a bike with them! how do you know how many low gears its got?


This is judged by the number of teeth on the gears. The way gears work is that running the chain from the small chainring at the front to the big cog at the rear gives you your lowest gear and from the big chainring at the front to the small cog at the back gives the highest gear.

On this bike because the 28 tooth small chainring is smaller than the 34 tooth rear cog it gives an extra low gear comparable to many mountain bikes, but the rest of the gears are similar to other "hybrids" so the bike won't feel too low geared on the flat. Best of both worlds.


----------



## Hill Wimp (25 Jul 2013)

Rickshaw Phil said:


> Saddles are an incredibly personal thing so it's really difficult to recommend a good one. What one person thinks of as a comfy sofa of a saddle might be an instrument of torture to another, and returning to cycling after a big gap you'll ache for the first few rides anyway.
> 
> What I'd suggest is getting yourself measured. Some cycle shops (Specialized dealers in particular) have a device nicknamed the arsometer, which measures the width of your sit bones. If your saddle is the right width you've got a better chance of it being comfortable.
> This is judged by the number of teeth on the gears. The way gears work is that running the chain from the small chainring at the front to the big cog at the rear gives you your lowest gear and from the big chainring at the front to the small cog at the back gives the highest gear.
> ...


 


Def get yourself measured but get the measurer to sign a gagging order. After that i have never cycled so fast trying to get those measurements down.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jul 2013)

Hill Wimp said:


> Def get yourself measured but get the measurer to sign a gagging order. After that i have never cycled so fast trying to get those measurements down.


----------



## bendanuk (25 Jul 2013)

thanks for the information everyone. I haven't actually been to the LBS yet, just looking online at the website at the bikes available . I like to make informed decisions, hence the questions before i do visit and also get the money together. and mrs permission of course


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jul 2013)

bendanuk said:


> thanks for the information everyone. I haven't actually been to the LBS yet, just looking online at the website at the bikes available . I like to make informed decisions, hence the questions before i do visit and also get the money together. and mrs permission of course


 
Plus many sleepless night thinking about the bike you want..


----------



## Ivan (25 Jul 2013)

Hello everyone,

This will, hopefully, not take too much of your time...
I am looking at this bike, but since I don't really understand what the specs mean, what would the more competent users here have to say about it?
Any other bikes you would suggest in this price range?

Thanks


----------



## bendanuk (25 Jul 2013)

Boon 51 said:


> Plus many sleepless night thinking about the bike you want..


 
correct! i keep changing my mind every 5 mins...



Rickshaw Phil said:


> Hi bendanuk and .
> 
> The Trek bikes you've listed are decent ones. My brother has the 7.1fx and likes it.
> 
> ...


 
so would you say the 7.1 is worth the extra £50?


----------



## Rickshaw Phil (25 Jul 2013)

bendanuk said:


> so would you say the 7.1 is worth the extra £50?


I think yes. Although I personally would quite happily ride either of those bikes I think that the detail improvements would make the 7.1fx worth spending that little bit extra.


----------



## Roadrider48 (26 Jul 2013)

Ivan said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> This will, hopefully, not take too much of your time...
> I am looking at this bike, but since I don't really understand what the specs mean, what would the more competent users here have to say about it?
> ...


Hi Ivan. It seems to be not a bad bike for the money. I ride a Carrera road bike and apart from changing the tyres and peddles it has been a good bike so far. The Veangance looks pretty cool too. Make sure if you buy one, that it fits you properly.


----------



## Havoc6 (26 Jul 2013)

Ivan said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> This will, hopefully, not take too much of your time...
> I am looking at this bike, but since I don't really understand what the specs mean, what would the more competent users here have to say about it?
> ...




Deffo worth a look at https://www.decathlon.co.uk/C-359112-mountain-bikes as aarapatlio said they also sell hybrids and racers . Excellent customer service too , not sure you will get that at Halfrauds .


----------



## Ivan (26 Jul 2013)

Thanks for your replies. I had a look at the Decathlon bikes, and this caught my eye:
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rockrider-53-mountain-bike-white-id_8206682.html
Are these 27 speeds reliable? I've only ever ridden a 18 speed bike...
Would you recommend it over the Carrera one I asked about?

Thanks


----------



## Kbrook (5 Aug 2013)

Dont want to start a new thread anyone got a link to a good guide for finding poper seat height, without the need for fancy equipment to measure angles ?


----------



## ianrauk (5 Aug 2013)

Kbrook said:


> Dont want to start a new thread anyone got a link to a good guide for finding poper seat height, without the need for fancy equipment to measure angles ?


 


Click *HERE*


----------



## Kbrook (5 Aug 2013)

Thank you very much


----------



## Carl Fenty (18 Aug 2013)

Hi, I have a really good local bike shop but I don't see any bikes in there I like. However, Ive seen a good carbon B Win bike in Decathlon but it is only a 10 speed bike. Is that good enough or should I go for more gears? I live in quite a hilly area. I've been riding my old mountain bike for 2 months now and can muster avg speeds of around 15 mph but need seem more speed at something much lighter. At the moment I'm doing 30 mile rides, my furthest is 40 miles so far. 

Would appreciate any advice that can be given. Sorry if this is a common question but I hope someone will be find enough to answer. 

Thanks,
Carl


----------



## themosquitoking (18 Aug 2013)

Carl Fenty said:


> Hi, I have a really good local bike shop but I don't see any bikes in there I like. However, Ive seen a good carbon B Win bike in Decathlon but it is only a 10 speed bike. Is that good enough or should I go for more gears? I live in quite a hilly area. I've been riding my old mountain bike for 2 months now and can muster avg speeds of around 15 mph but need seem more speed at something much lighter. At the moment I'm doing 30 mile rides, my furthest is 40 miles so far.
> 
> Would appreciate any advice that can be given. Sorry if this is a common question but I hope someone will be find enough to answer.
> 
> ...


 
Are you sure it's only a ten speed? Post a link up.


----------



## Carl Fenty (18 Aug 2013)

themosquitoking said:


> Are you sure it's only a ten speed? Post a link up.


Hi, I spoke to the guy in the shop and he confirmed it was a ten speeder. Here's the link below. 

http://www.decathlon.co.uk/fc-3-road-bike-black-id_8221749.html


----------



## themosquitoking (19 Aug 2013)

Carl Fenty said:


> Hi, I spoke to the guy in the shop and he confirmed it was a ten speeder. Here's the link below.
> 
> http://www.decathlon.co.uk/fc-3-road-bike-black-id_8221749.html


 
In the photo's it has a double chainring.


----------



## Edwards80 (19 Aug 2013)

It has a compact chainset. 10 speed is just referring to the cassette.

You'll have 20 to choose from


----------



## Carl Fenty (19 Aug 2013)

Edwards80 said:


> It has a compact chainset. 10 speed is just referring to the cassette.
> 
> You'll have 20 to choose from


As you can see, I'm not good at bikes. Thanks for the advice. 20 should be enough! Lol.


----------



## Kbrook (22 Aug 2013)

Looking at new tyres, do folding tyres fit on Cincher wheels? For instance this

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...vittoria-zaffiro-pro-classic-tyre/vitttyrf804


----------



## Dean evans (22 Aug 2013)

I brought a bike from Halfords... Cycle to work scheme so didn't have a choice. (as seen on my display pic) personally wouldn't have choose one if I had the choice however that's another story! Since I've had it 3 months I've had nothing but problems with it, seems to be in Halfords more than on the road! problems so far include gears not set up correctly so chain kept slipping off in top gear... they've adjusted it many times but now I've just got used to it and learnt to change gears in a different way to avoid it, Wheel spokes keep coming loose so getting rattling sound, little things like reflectors keep loosening so the thread has gone (Replaced them twice) I could go on... Thing to bear in mind is DONT BUY A HALFORDS BIKE!
One final note.. checked independent reviews and they mark it as a top bike... Maybe this is what I should expect at a £500 price mark I'm not sure... this is my first road bike and I'm a beginner.


----------



## AnnaNanna (31 Aug 2013)

My halFords bike is doing okay so far. The gear changes are difficult, but I think that's because it's stiff as the bike is new


----------



## Pale Rider (31 Aug 2013)

AnnaNanna said:


> My halFords bike is doing okay so far. The gear changes are difficult, but I think that's because it's stiff as the bike is new


 
I had stiff gears once.

The problem was the cable had been wrapped around the clamp in a U shape on the rear derailleur rather dropped straight in from above.

Sort of daft mistake Halfords might make.


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## AnnaNanna (31 Aug 2013)

We assembled ours ourselves...mind you, that's just pedals, seats, wheels


----------



## DW1 (1 Sep 2013)

Had a road bike (Carrera TDF) for a couple of months now. I posted a thread earlier on this site about the gearing which seemed very hard up steeper hills. At the moment, I think I will stay with the current set up (12-26 cassette and 38-52 front chain set) BUT - I don't live in a very hilly area and I would be regarded as quite a strong cyclist by those I know who cycle occasionally/fairly regularly (but generally shorter distances). Countered by the fact that I am pushing 15 stones, it makes a difference up hills ! Getting used to it but it does require a BIG effort up steep hills. If I was to go to, say, Scotland and tackle hilly areas, I think I would look at changing something.

I hadn't quite realised the importance of the gearing set up after being used to mountain bikes. Based on my experience, my advice to any newbie looking at buying a road bike would be to look fairly hard at gearing ratios if you are fairly new to cycling and particularly if you will be tackling fairly steep, long hills. Something like a 12-28 or 12-30 cassette and 34/50 compact front will give you lower gearing for steeper hills. You can of course change cassettes and fronts but if you have to get a LBS to carry this out, adjust gears etc all extra cost. Although if changed at time of purchase, the LBS/Halfords may not charge extra for the labour cost and just count is as part of the initial set up of the bike.

Some v useful suggestions by others on my Carrera TDF gearing post.

Anyway, hope this might help someone inexperienced considering a first/new road bike. I am sure more experienced cyclists will be able to add more useful info.


----------



## tonyw (8 Oct 2013)

stoatsngroats said:


> ....don't know about analogy, but a collective could be " A Sedentary of recumbents"


 have to say shops like Halfords are not the problem,having a Carrera Kraken myself I actually like the bike but set up is a problem ha immense problems with hydraulic brakes and gears due to bad set up but saying that my local bike shop did no better a job,do conclude that probably means its not the bikes at fault


----------



## Lee J Maynard (20 Oct 2013)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


----------



## Lee J Maynard (20 Oct 2013)

Great review!


----------



## Louch (30 Oct 2013)

Dean evans said:


> I brought a bike from Halfords... Cycle to work scheme so didn't have a choice. (as seen on my display pic) personally wouldn't have choose one if I had the choice however that's another story! Since I've had it 3 months I've had nothing but problems with it, seems to be in Halfords more than on the road! problems so far include gears not set up correctly so chain kept slipping off in top gear... they've adjusted it many times but now I've just got used to it and learnt to change gears in a different way to avoid it, Wheel spokes keep coming loose so getting rattling sound, little things like reflectors keep loosening so the thread has gone (Replaced them twice) I could go on... Thing to bear in mind is DONT BUY A HALFORDS BIKE!
> One final note.. checked independent reviews and they mark it as a top bike... Maybe this is what I should expect at a £500 price mark I'm not sure... this is my first road bike and I'm a beginner.



I had same issues with my boardman road race. Led to my gearing showing signs of excessive wearing. I eventually complained to head office and as a result was refunded what I'd paid my lbs to reset my gearing and replace the cables as halfords hadn't set them up correctly


----------



## bpsmith (30 Oct 2013)

If you rang Halfords' central C2W number, they would have sourced any bike you fancied. Didn't have to be a Boardman. Got my Giant Defy 1 during the Summer that way.


----------



## FortuitousFluke (5 Nov 2013)

Just wanted to pop in and mention how useful this guide is to the relatively uninitiated. I've just started commuting by bike and, whilst my current ride does the job adequately, I'm hoping to upgrade in the coming months.

I live just outside of Cambridge so I'm guessing I can find a decent LBS somewhere in the City (there is one in Cambourne where I live but on first glance it seems to cater more to the high end club riders). One thing I find massively confusing is pricing, with such a massive range <£100 - £2000+. It's difficult to know how much to budget for my first upgrade (I can probably go to £700 but is this overkill?). Obviously it's very subjective but I'm still thinking I shall need to put on my researching cap well in advance of popping into the LBS.


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## Doc333 (5 Dec 2013)

Great thread and as I have just started cycling again, I would have had great help with this, although I had to do the research myself as i have only just discovered this site. From my own experience I needed to choose a bike that would best suit my needs, and as its been mentioned on this thread that is the only way to go. I decided on a road bike rather than a tourer, MTB etc, but what type of road bike. Iwanted something fast, light and a good amount of gears (I'm 57 so need as much help as I can get) to get me over lumps. I am not going to be a racer therefore no point in a superbike that starts to hurt from being in a streamlined position for hours on end. A racer is not a bike that the average rider can use in the UK all year around, due to wather. So I wanted something fast, well geared and now comfortable, and that can take mudguards and maybe slightly wider tyres. So this brings me down to either a cross bike or an endurance bike. I finally plumped for the endurance bike as the rubber was going to be skinnier and also the gearing on the bike I chose was going to be enough to get me over most hills. Light, well equiped, comfortable etc. So thats where I got to and I went out and did it last weekend.

Horses for courses, but I wanted a bike I could use to commute all year (If I wanted to) a bike that could race if I wanted/needed and generally a bike I would get my monies worth out of and would get used constantly. No point in a bike you can only use locally when it's not rained for a fortnight etc.


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## SWSteve (5 Dec 2013)

@Doc333 what did you get? Pics?


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## Doc333 (5 Dec 2013)

Steve I got a Cannondale Synapse AL 105 Disc


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## SpokeyDokey (9 Dec 2013)

Doc333 said:


> Great thread and as I have just started cycling again, I would have had great help with this, although I had to do the research myself as i have only just discovered this site. From my own experience I needed to choose a bike that would best suit my needs, and as its been mentioned on this thread that is the only way to go. I decided on a road bike rather than a tourer, MTB etc, but what type of road bike. Iwanted something fast, light and a good amount of gears (I'm 57 so need as much help as I can get) to get me over lumps. I am not going to be a racer therefore no point in a superbike that starts to hurt from being in a streamlined position for hours on end. A racer is not a bike that the average rider can use in the UK all year around, due to wather. So I wanted something fast, well geared and now comfortable, and that can take mudguards and maybe slightly wider tyres. So this brings me down to either a cross bike or an endurance bike. I finally plumped for the endurance bike as the rubber was going to be skinnier and also the gearing on the bike I chose was going to be enough to get me over most hills. Light, well equiped, comfortable etc. So thats where I got to and I went out and did it last weekend.
> 
> Horses for courses, but I wanted a bike I could use to commute all year (If I wanted to) a bike that could race if I wanted/needed and generally a bike I would get my monies worth out of and would get used constantly. No point in a bike you can only use locally when it's not rained for a fortnight etc.



Good luck with your new hobby/bike although I think you'll find that there are a lot of "superbikes" and "racers" that are indeed used all year round.


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## PhilDawson8270 (20 Dec 2013)

Doc333 said:


> Steve I got a Cannondale Synapse AL 105 Disc


Just googled this, very pretty looking bike


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## Giant-Churchy (4 Jan 2014)

I think the advice is very good but if you have a question then ask no such thing as a silly question.


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## Doc333 (7 Jan 2014)

A question from me about locks. Not been cycling long and not gone far enough yet to get off and leave the bike whilst I have a meal etc. When I do I could do with knowing what's the most popular lock, especially when thinking about weight - seems silly to spec out a light bike and then load yourself up with a few kilo's. Abus Mini has been mentioned somewhere but it seems too small to be of use?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Bomber69 (20 Feb 2014)

Some great advice on here. I started cycling about 18 months ago on an old hybrid as part of my rehab following an ACL reconstruction and totally loved it. I'm now at the stage where I'm starting to do longer rides mainly on roads over more challenging terrain(hills!!) so I'm considering buying a road bike. After some research i've narrowed it down to a giant defy 5, specialized allez or scott speedster. They all seem very similar in spec so does anyone recommend a particular one of these (or indeed another!!?) Cheers in advance


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## Kris Fraser (18 Mar 2014)

Hi Guys,

New to this forum, just got a new bike to commute to work on the days my wife has off.

Bought a carrera hybrid, as i didnt want to spend loads, and the bike was on offer.

Im curious about one thing, Halfords seems to have a very bad rep, and concerned if I have missed something or am just plain naive. I have always had great service, always very helpful and normally get a bike plan so i dont have to cover labour costs if anything goes wrong (which was quite frequently on my old apollo bike :s)

Just want to find out if theres anything i need to watch out for


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## Louch (18 Mar 2014)

welcome Kris, some stores are good, some awful. you may have gotten lucky


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## Dark46 (23 Mar 2014)

Great post by Andy. I'm new here and just about to buy a bike on the ride to work scheme. 
The bit if advice I would give to anyone buying a bike is test rides are essential


----------



## Martstar (27 Mar 2014)

G


andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...



Good informative post!


----------



## bikegears143 (1 Apr 2014)

really good for beginners, awesome info!


----------



## damadamski (11 May 2014)

Nice post, really helpful to a newbie like me


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## Acesand8s (22 May 2014)

I am in the USA so i dont know about your street terminology, but there are 7 common types of terrains with 7 bike styles: road bikes for road riding, universal trail-bikes for steady trails with no obstacles, hardtail mountain bikes (abbreviated MTB) for cross country riding and on all trails, all-mountain bikes for serious single track riding, gravity bikes including full suspension BMX and other for elite downhill riding, free ride (BMX and fixie), and finally tank bikes for very wet riding (internal hub gears and brakes, chain gaird, fendors.) 

Then there are a few mentionable in-betweens: cross bikes which are essentially road bikes that can go on trails, enduro MTB which are gravity-capable all-mountain bikes (all mountain bike style is dyeing these days,) and hybrids which can really only go on trails that have very few obsticles. 

Then you have a few specialty kinds: trike or other recumbent, carbon/aluminum track bikes pretty much built to hate cracks and bumps, tall bikes (sometimes called sky scrapers) foldables, and more. 

Lastly, there are many different set-ups, wheel sizes, and variants, and still various kinds of brakes, positioning of things, pedals, shoes, helmets and other accessories that really make a bike personal, with infinite small things you can do that can matter so much to love your bike. It takes time but start with your style which should be bassed on your terrain, find the right bars, pedals, and extras from there. Im just glad you have decided to take up such a wonderful thing.


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## Sally_92 (23 Jun 2014)

Useful post for a newbie like myself, thanks.


----------



## bendanuk (24 Jun 2014)

so i finally ordered a bike through cycle2work scheme this week - specialized cross trail sport disc and it should arrive in a few days. what accessories should i buy to get started? helmet, shorts, lock? i'm planning on taking ti easy at first just around where i live on the road and canal tow paths. i don't fancy tight lycra at the moment so what sort of clothing would i need? thanks


----------



## Garry A (25 Jun 2014)

I got padded cycle shorts but wear them under normal knee length shorts, mini pump to take on bike, track pump, tyre levers, spare tube, mini tool, puncture kit, helmet and a wee saddle bag to put stuff in. Need to lose half a stone before i get a cycle jersey though


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## bendanuk (28 Jun 2014)

thanks, thinking of this for a kit: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B63XJ76/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1; helmet: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...ct_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1GUTWY8430LTU; gloves: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...ct_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1KEEX7O6HKEZL; shorts: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00CWVPAU0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A42AFNTCJ77RJ


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## Stormbringer (30 Jun 2014)

Thanks for the tips


----------



## Tonirudolfvlaic (10 Jul 2014)

Thank you for sharing.

Toni Rudolf Vlaic


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## ribside (4 Aug 2014)

Nice summary. Many thanks :-)


----------



## Rickshaw Phil (5 Aug 2014)

leolabedard said:


> Thanks for sharing though this topic was been posted 2008
> 
> I'm a beginner and i put an headlight on it for the protection and to secure my way every night of biking..


 Hi and  @leolabedard 

Just a small pointer - for your location it's enough to just say to the nearest town. Putting your full postal address where anyone on the internet can see it isn't good for security.


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## Moe (10 Aug 2014)

I have a FAV.4 then! Although I am using for road cycling! Will changing the tyres be a good idea?


----------



## Ramjam (18 Aug 2014)

Geez to long a thread to read from start to finish.

Great tips regarding helmet , tool etc from amazon.

Bought my first bike, a Giant Defy 1 - how light !! My last racer (showing my age) was 35 years ago !!! What a difference.

I dont want to get my new bike dirty cos its so nice.
Seriously I need to invest in some cycle shoes,dont want to spend loads ££ but they need to be wide fitting (cos my feet are a bit like a chimps, size 8 1/2 and very wide).
Any hints/tips?


----------



## Torvi (20 Aug 2014)

there are alot of "normal" looking spd/psd whatever u name it shoes with clips inside the sole, that would be probably the best choice for you


----------



## Joshua Plumtree (27 Aug 2014)

Ramjam said:


> Geez to long a thread to read from start to finish.
> 
> Great tips regarding helmet , tool etc from amazon.
> 
> ...




Try the muddy fox range in your local sports direct. People will scoff, but they do the job and the ones I have fit my wide feet very well.


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## Torvi (27 Aug 2014)

yeah muddys are low budget decent clothes tho i got a jersey from them and it's all good but it's surprisingly long, this long i can wear it behind my bum and i ordered medium size...


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## cyclingclueless (30 Aug 2014)

Hello; I saw this and it is very informative and useful. .. but now has me a lil worried. I managed to buy a 2nd hand ladies bike, think its a tourer going by the pics.... but is this right one for long distance day in and day out?

it has 5 gears, no suspension....:/ any help appreciated!


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## Torvi (30 Aug 2014)

yeah it will be fine, dont forget about comfy seat, tho better gear set would make it much easier to beat uphills


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## cyclingclueless (31 Aug 2014)

Thanks torvi! I don't think I can get a gear change set to more than its got.. and yes on the comfy seat. Been out today for 2 hours and I am sore!


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## Torvi (31 Aug 2014)

if you exchange whole set+wheels then everything is possible


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## Lemond (10 Sep 2014)

My advice: approach every junction with extreme caution and assume you haven't been seen.

After a twenty-year break I've only been riding for a couple of months and have already had three driver's pull out right in front of me. The only damage I've suffered thus far is one puncture, when I had to swerve and hit a curb.

It seems lights, a luminous yellow shirt and me having the right of way make no difference: many drivers just don't look properly.


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## Deputy Dawg (25 Sep 2014)

mickle said:


> I agree with most of your post AFO but am mildly concerned about your classifications. Don't get me wrong, you're definitions are right and I haven't yet formulated an alternative but I am coming to the conclusion that this whole field needs an even simpler approach. If the aim is to enable beginners to establish the right kind of bike for their needs perhaps we need a flow chart of some kind.
> Or a matrixy thing.


All so true mickle. Not sure a flow chart or a 'matrixy thing' is simpler however.......so many variations. It may be good for one of the big retailers to do an online Q&A survey that specifies ideal bikes as a result......


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## Deputy Dawg (25 Sep 2014)

And I forgot to add andyfromotley, my wife is still chuckling about my Ferrari and RAV4!


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## bloodlett (27 Sep 2014)

just purchased a trek fx 7.4 disk I would consider it a corvette only because of I consider myself a v8 and not a inline 4


----------



## rd83 (1 Oct 2014)

Informative original post, but newbies don't be afraid to ask and post questions. Nothing worse than a forum where you're only allowed to read old threads.


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## LordGrover (3 Oct 2014)

What about the Overfinch Range Rover of bikes... the Dutchies?


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## LordGrover (3 Oct 2014)

Lemond said:


> My advice: approach every junction with extreme caution and assume you haven't been seen.
> 
> After a twenty-year break I've only been riding for a couple of months and have already had three driver's pull out right in front of me. The only damage I've suffered thus far is one puncture, when I had to swerve and hit a curb.
> 
> It seems lights, a luminous yellow shirt and me having the right of way make no difference: many drivers just don't look properly.


SMIDSY


----------



## solan (1 Dec 2014)

I want to start cycling and I have a bike I got when I was 18 and it's a little rusty in the nuts and bolts.
What do I need to do to make it "road worthy"? Do I need special tyres?
It's a mountain bike typically girly with hippy dippy flowers which is very embarrassing.
I was thinking just getting a new bike but don't want to fork out a small fortune.


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## solan (1 Dec 2014)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...



Great advice Andy!


----------



## solan (1 Dec 2014)

punkypossum said:


> I think the problem with halfords is not necessarily the bikes, the carreras for example tend to be very good, but unfortunately if you are a beginner you cannot necessarily rely on them to put the bike together properly or even in a way that makes it safe to ride.



Oh really they are that bad? I was looking to get my new bike from them due to recommendation


----------



## Spinney (1 Dec 2014)

solan said:


> Oh really they are that bad? I was looking to get my new bike from them due to recommendation


From what I've heard it depends very much on who works at the branch. Some are apparently OK, some are verging on the dangerous ...


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## solan (1 Dec 2014)

Spinney said:


> From what I've heard it depends very much on who works at the branch. Some are apparently OK, some are verging on the dangerous ...



I may just give my local cycle shop a little visit first then. Wonder if they can do a fix up on my hippy dippy mountain bike. It's a little shameful....


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## Spinney (1 Dec 2014)

solan said:


> I may just give my local cycle shop a little visit first then. Wonder if they can do a fix up on my hippy dippy mountain bike. It's a little shameful....


Won't do any harm to ask them how much it would cost to fix it up.


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## Lei (3 Jan 2015)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


Hi, Andy 
How is "Giant Enchant 2" for A Xroad user?!


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## paddypete (28 Jan 2015)

still trying to get used to these cleats,i was out a few weeks ago, and stopped for a look about and a drink,i took out my right foot and rested in on the pedal,i put my left foot on the grass verge,i had a drink and lost my balance,tried to put my right foot down,but it must have clipped back in during the panic,cuts and grazes were on the menu,need to make sure my shose are properly de clipped,before i do myself a right one


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## Colnago Master (25 Mar 2015)

paddypete said:


> still trying to get used to these cleats,i was out a few weeks ago, and stopped for a look about and a drink,i took out my right foot and rested in on the pedal,i put my left foot on the grass verge,i had a drink and lost my balance,tried to put my right foot down,but it must have clipped back in during the panic,cuts and grazes were on the menu,need to make sure my shose are properly de clipped,before i do myself a right one


I've known many seasoned riders do a "comedy dismount" from not getting there foot out in time. If you've ever used toestraps tightened for riding you'll realise cleats are a lot easier to get used to.


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## contadino (25 Mar 2015)

For several years I used to have clip pedals through winter and flats in summer and I've lost count of the number of times I've been caught out by the changing seasons. Last time it was right in front of one of the towns busiest bars...


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## peter davidson (29 Mar 2015)

I bought my bike from a LBS through bike 2 work they where fantastic I had fancied a boardman and done a fair bit of research one of the local Halfords the young lad was mega helpful an avid mountain bikers with tons of knowledge. Another local Halfords the assistant was very keen but totally clueless. In the end my choice was made on future service. Everyone at the LBS new there stuff and as one of the guys was the owner he was there to stay


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## ultraviolet (9 Apr 2015)

peter davidson said:


> I bought my bike from a LBS through bike 2 work they where fantastic I had fancied a boardman and done a fair bit of research one of the local Halfords the young lad was mega helpful an avid mountain bikers with tons of knowledge. Another local Halfords the assistant was very keen but totally clueless. In the end my choice was made on future service. Everyone at the LBS new there stuff and as one of the guys was the owner he was there to stay



and plus if you got your bike at a halfords you couldn't of gone the salary sacrifice route


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## flick161 (14 Apr 2015)

This was my first thread I read months ago, before I considered joining the forum. It was a really useful post


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## DEFENDER01 (24 Apr 2015)

Looks like i ride a Volvo Estate. 
But i do drive a Land Rover Defender.


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## Mouki (23 May 2015)

Hi guys,

This was a handy post as i'm a total noob. In my case, i've been scouring the internet for so long I feel like I know more about bikes than ever before but still totally nothing as i've realised i've only scratched the surface!! That's where I fall flat on my face and think again - where do I start?? I would love stuff like the below answered, just 1 handy document that answers some of the do's and don't's (like this post) but MORE!

So like this post:

Where to buy from and what you get for that service.
What you want the bike FOR.
TYPES of bikes and then following up again on what your needs are for one.
That's such a nice start and I had this knowledge when I went to some LBS' and then got stumped again and realised I needed to know more:

BUDGET - Such a big factor (I didn't realise HOW big actually!)
Am I buying for the next 5, 10, 20 years? Just to see if I like it and get into it? For myself and what i've read, noobys like me want to see if they will enjoy it at first.
COMPONENTS - Seems it is an important factor but how do you learn about them?? How much should you be worrying about them for your first bike?
Weight, frame size, wheels - Weight is a factor for me but to be honest, I didn't even consider frame size - I just expected to buy a huge bike!!! And you read about people swapping out they're wheels all the time. Should you be considering buying spares or upgrading straight away?
If you're investing in a bike, how much knowledge would you need to gain about maintaining and fixing small problems?
That's just some of the things I can think of this time of the evening! Apologies if I am asking a lot (not that it's going to happen lol) but just wanted to state as a noob this is the kind of thing's I start worrying about and not sure if I should. I will be posting a thread next about my current experience where I still feel confused! So hoping some of you can help please!

Thanks


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## SeanM (16 Jun 2015)

I ventured into a LBS over the weekend to have a problem with my recent 'internet purchased' bike fixed. The guys took one look at me and told me the bike was a size too big, fortunately i've been able to send it back and have it swapped. Lucky escape for me. The guys in the bike shop must have thought i was a right knob. 

I've previously not done a vast amount of cycling, just commuting and stuff and the occasional 20km ride that i had right outside my door in Australia, and i've never even looked at a cycling forum before. I have so much to learn it's quite scary.


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## Ern1e (16 Jun 2015)

Mouki said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> This was a handy post as i'm a total noob. In my case, i've been scouring the internet for so long I feel like I know more about bikes than ever before but still totally nothing as i've realised i've only scratched the surface!! That's where I fall flat on my face and think again - where do I start?? I would love stuff like the below answered, just 1 handy document that answers some of the do's and don't's (like this post) but MORE!
> 
> ...


Hi now I don't know if this will help you or not but here I go ! I joined on here in 2012 after having been diagnosed with sleep apnea then after informing both the DVLA & my insurance company noproblem with the former but the insurance was a different story this went through the roof to the point that it was just not worth if for the mileage I was doing. So I bought a bike fr om outside a local paper shop ok strange place but the guy is a keen cyclist, ant way this was a mtb in good order but still had it's original components ! Any way it was only purchased so I was able to get to the bank ( having sampled local transport) I got seriously involved and over the last few years has things wore out/broke etc I simply replaced these components with far better ones lol. Over the last two years I bought other bikes which I must admit some of them where mistakes and got sold on,at this time I now have three but the daft thing I still prefer the bike shaped object that I got from the paper shop lol. So in conclustion don't over worry about what you get for a start you will upgrade it at some point and if you go to your lbs they should be able to advise you far better than this silly old sod on his bso.


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## flick161 (19 Jun 2015)

Thought I should check back in with my adventures over the last few months.
So... I changed my MTB tyres to slicks which helped me greatly whilst riding.
BUT I was still getting whipped by the others at my local tri club at mid-week practice sessions obviously. There were a few incidents where I wasn't making it up hills in the wind and the day I pretty much cried the duration of the route.

The positives are I'm still riding A LOT more. I went out on the Mother's Day CycloFemme ride in Brighton which was the furthest I'd ridden in a day.

Then last weekend, the local tri club lent me a road bike and took me out on it for the first time. Felt like I was learning to ride again! Lots of bruised shins, achy hand from the new hand position, and mega achy bum; but I cycled 15 miles and best of all, it was really easy!

Am DEFINITELY going to invest in a road bike at some point. Flippin loved it!


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## zee90 (10 Jul 2015)

I've been cycling since I was a kid. This is one of some activities that I enjoy the most. But I haven't cycled for quite some time because I was kinda busy with my daily. This thread is very useful. I'm going to check the bike on my garage to see if it still working properly.


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## Cannondale Lady (19 Jul 2015)

I'm totally new to cycling but lucky enough to have a very experienced and avid cycling hubby. He let me choose my bike myself and was impressed with my choice and didn't feel the need to intervene. He said it will do me for the foreseeable future.

Have found the forum so far to have a number of people who look at lady cyclists, hobby cyclists or newby cyclists with distaste and intolerance. Such a shame. But I'm here and I'm new and not scared off yet.

My advice to brand new cyclists is that it takes about 5 rides before the butt pain fades but stick with it. Slow and steady. Don't let anyone try to push you too far mile wise and listen to your body!


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## Torvi (19 Jul 2015)

CannondaleLady said:


> I'm totally new to cycling but lucky enough to have a very experienced and avid cycling hubby. He let me choose my bike myself and was impressed with my choice and didn't feel the need to intervene. He said it will do me for the foreseeable future.
> 
> Have found the forum so far to have a number of people who look at lady cyclists, hobby cyclists or newby cyclists with distaste and intolerance. Such a shame. But I'm here and I'm new and not scared off yet.
> 
> My advice to brand new cyclists is that it takes about 5 rides before the butt pain fades but stick with it. Slow and steady. Don't let anyone try to push you too far mile wise and listen to your body!


haven't noticed anything like that, I for one love to cycle behind ladies, for a well known reasons


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## Cannondale Lady (19 Jul 2015)

Haha u would have the full track blocked behind me haha!


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## Torvi (19 Jul 2015)

love the booty praise the booty


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## stoatsngroats (20 Jul 2015)

CannondaleLady said:


> Have found the forum so far to have a number of people who look at lady cyclists, hobby cyclists or newby cyclists with distaste and intolerance. Such a shame. But I'm here and I'm new and not scared off yet.



Not everyone here is like this - some of us are passionate about the cycling, and want it to continue to grow as a recreational event, and therefore often disregard the views of those who bring nothing but conjecture, insult, and very little else to this forum. I think that reading threads is a little like mining.... some fantastic nuggets of information amongst the myriad of uninteresting, vapid commentary.



CannondaleLady said:


> My advice to brand new cyclists is that it takes about 5 rides before the butt pain fades but stick with it. Slow and steady. Don't let anyone try to push you too far mile wise and listen to your body!


Miles, strength, and speed take time, and people might often feel that there is no need to progress to extremes - my advice is just to do your own thing, and most importantly, enjoy it - cycling really can be life enhancing!


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## User16625 (28 Jul 2015)

Ern1e said:


> Hi now I don't know if this will help you or not but here I go ! I joined on here in 2012 after having been diagnosed with sleep apnea then after* informing both the DVLA & my insurance company* noproblem with the former but the insurance was a different story this went through the roof to the point that it was just not worth if for the mileage I was doing. So I bought a bike fr om outside a local paper shop ok strange place but the guy is a keen cyclist, ant way this was a mtb in good order but still had it's original components ! Any way it was only purchased so I was able to get to the bank ( having sampled local transport) I got seriously involved and over the last few years has things wore out/broke etc I simply replaced these components with far better ones lol. Over the last two years I bought other bikes which I must admit some of them where mistakes and got sold on,at this time I now have three but the daft thing I still prefer the bike shaped object that I got from the paper shop lol. So in conclustion don't over worry about what you get for a start you will upgrade it at some point and if you go to your lbs they should be able to advise you far better than this silly old sod on his bso.



Most decent law breaking people wont even have bothered with this bit. I suggest you not bother informing future insurance companies. The ass rapin you get in return for being totally legal just isnt worth it. Lets face it, insurance companies seem to be encouraging people to break the law.


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## Ern1e (29 Jul 2015)

RideLikeTheStig said:


> Most decent law breaking people wont even have bothered with this bit. I suggest you not bother informing future insurance companies. The ass rapin you get in return for being totally legal just isnt worth it. Lets face it, insurance companies seem to be encouraging people to break the law.


Whilst I do know what you mean by this you don't always have a choice depending on which hospital you end up under , mine just simply told me that I had to do so but some one else I know who is under another the hospital aksed them who they was insured with then they told botn the dvla and insurers ( bl**dy spliters) plus should you have an accident and they found out well then the sh1t really hit the fan ! So rather than take the " risk " my thought was better to dob myself in and tell the truth ! So three years later who needs a car lol.


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## GuyBoden (5 Aug 2015)

It's my second week back on a road bike after many, many years, my fifth ride was a 18 mile round trip to Arley Hall and back. It's a nice, pleasant ride in Cheshire, but maybe a bit too far. The inclines are still a big effort, but I'm sure (hoping) they will get easier.


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## GuyBoden (24 Aug 2015)

My advice to newbies.

If you're older like me and have just got back on a bike, I'd practice looking behind your shoulders, both left and right on the settee while watching T.V. 

Looking behind each shoulder is essential when riding a bike in traffic, but if you've not done it for a while the neck muscles need to get re-accustomed to this movement.


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## Vickivix (26 Aug 2015)

That's really helpful. My neck is quite tight, so just doing that will hopefully help.


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## RegG (30 Aug 2015)

GuyBoden said:


> My advice to newbies.
> 
> If you're older like me and have just got back on a bike, I'd practice looking behind your shoulders, both left and right on the settee while watching T.V.
> 
> Looking behind each shoulder is essential when riding a bike in traffic, but if you've not done it for a while the neck muscles need to get re-accustomed to this movement.



I'm glad I'm not the only one to experience 'neck ache'! I will have to try looking behind me whilst watching TV


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## leedsmick (8 Sep 2015)

Just read through this whole thread. I didn't realise there was such a stigma attached to buying from Halfords. I suppose you don't know until you find out. Personally my experience with the one in Leeds (kirkstall) was excellent. I am slightly concerned with the comments on set ups but would I know by now if something was wrong? I've done 141 in the 3 weeks I've had it off and on road and to a beginner it seems perfect. The Carrera, which is what I got seems to be half accepted but are all the proper cyclists laughing at me as they fly by? One thing I didn't consider was the area round me. It's very hilly and have found I've been mainly riding the roads so perhaps my choice of MTB was hasty but at least I have the choice to go off into the woods and act like a kid again!


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## stoatsngroats (8 Sep 2015)

^^^ Im a proper cyclist, but I don't race, don't have a racer, and don't (now) do more than about 40 miles.... and Halfords are fine if you are observant, and know what you want... If you don't know what you want, some of the Halfords staff are really helpful, others not so much, but this is no different in other suppliers (or those I have tried).

Carrera are fine, I've had 2 a current 2015 and a 2008, and have no issues which have been unmanageable.

Enjoy your bike, and your rides, and don;t let others opinions affect your decisions!


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## leedsmick (9 Sep 2015)

Great advice, nice one.


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## inara (12 Sep 2015)

Hi all,

I've been reading through this thread but think I've gotten myself more confused than when I began, so advice would not go astray!

I am planning on getting a bike through a very generous work cycle to work scheme. I'm mainly planning on using to cycle to/from work (20 mins tops) and maybe to take out on weekends sometimes. I was thinking a hybrid might be best for this - given advice above?

I was planning on getting a Pashley Princess Sovereign, but now that the aesthetic excitement has wound down I'm not so sure. I'm very little, only 5'1 and wonder if it will be too heavy? 

I also live/work in zone 2 in London so I'm concerned about security outside work (planning on getting insurance but don't want to have to end up calling them every few months cos the seat/wheels/basket have been nicked). 

My flat is pretty small but I was going to clear out the front cupboard and put a bike shelf in there, but the one I have bought definitely won't fit a Pashley princess in it. I'm a bit concerned they all seem to be made for straight top tube bikes, what about women's hybrids?!

Any advice on the above, or on what to purchase generally would be brilliant. I can spend up to about £500 at Evans Cycles so I think that's a fairly generous budget? And as you can tell, I did like the look of the Pashley, but I'm willing to give that up for piece of mind/storage concerns. 

Thanks in advance.


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## Postmanhat (22 Sep 2015)

GuyBoden said:


> My advice to newbies.
> 
> If you're older like me and have just got back on a bike, I'd practice looking behind your shoulders, both left and right on the settee while watching T.V.
> 
> Looking behind each shoulder is essential when riding a bike in traffic, but if you've not done it for a while the neck muscles need to get re-accustomed to this movement.



A few sessions on the velodrome helped me with this as well. Moving out of your line on the track is very dangerous if you don't check behind you. But paradoxically, looking behind you can cause you to move off the line if you don't get it right. The key things seem to be

- Don't turn your head too much. You only need to know what's 10-20 yards behind you at most

- Look down a bit more probably more than you naturally would. Unless you've got a flock of seagulls after you, anything above head height is irrelevant


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## tinandvarnish404 (30 Sep 2015)

Great stuff!


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## CARiD (1 Oct 2015)

Yes, I have a road bike and yes my neck hurts from looking forward sometimes. Excellent thread by the way!


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## ian turner (20 Oct 2015)

inara said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I've been reading through this thread but think I've gotten myself more confused than when I began, so advice would not go astray!
> 
> ...


Check out Decathlon and their selection of hybrids. They're considered good value for money and when it gets stolen it won't be quite so painful buying a new one. If you intend to leave it anywhere public then you'll be looking at a heavy duty d lock with a gold rating.
Mind you last time I was sitting outside the BFI there was a bike still securely locked to the riverside railings but the rear wheel had a rather strange shape.


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## Kopper (21 Nov 2015)

I learnt to ride a bike, little over a month ago. I brought an Apollo transfer (the cheapest bike in my local Halfords). I'm so new to biking that I don't know any makes or models. I can't do any basic repairs and I don't know if the bike I have is any good.
Although I do know I want a faster bike.
The other day I was pedalling away for dear life, only to see another rider whizz pass me. I noticed they weren't even pedalling! And when they were they weren't putting in the same effort as me.

This, unfortunately, is a regular occurrence.

What bike do I need and how much will it cost?


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## Kopper (26 Nov 2015)

Kopper said:


> I learnt to ride a bike, little over a month ago. I brought an Apollo transfer (the cheapest bike in my local Halfords). I'm so new to biking that I don't know any makes or models. I can't do any basic repairs and I don't know if the bike I have is any good.
> Although I do know I want a faster bike.
> The other day I was pedalling away for dear life, only to see another rider whizz pass me. I noticed they weren't even pedalling! And when they were they weren't putting in the same effort as me.
> 
> ...




I can now answer my own post.

I don't need a new bike I just need to pedal more efficiently and keep building the strength in my legs to do so.


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## Yorkyred (24 Jan 2016)

Ok new to Cycling after 20 years off a bike and enjoying my first 12 mile ride yesterday. I'v swapped my car for a bike after losing sing my car allowance at work. I purchased a Cannondale Caadx 105 and other than it feeling quite a firm ride it's great. Any recommendations on what to drink while out, just used water yesterday ?


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## Yorkyred (24 Jan 2016)

By the way great service from my Local Bike shop who sold me the right frame size. Halfords stated I needed a 54cm which was too big in my view.


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## 13 rider (24 Jan 2016)

Yorkyred said:


> Ok new to Cycling after 20 years off a bike and enjoying my first 12 mile ride yesterday. I'v swapped my car for a bike after losing sing my car allowance at work. I purchased a Cannondale Caadx 105 and other than it feeling quite a firm ride it's great. Any recommendations on what to drink while out, just used water yesterday ?


Water or orange squash is fine you don't need energy drinks or electrolytes for shortish rides .I now only use orange squash even on longer rides 100 miles tried electrolytes didn't do much for me . Just drink before your thirsty little and often . If you can't already learn to drink and ride at the same time


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## Yorkyred (25 Jan 2016)

13 rider said:


> Water or orange squash is fine you don't need energy drinks or electrolytes for shortish rides .I now only use orange squash even on longer rides 100 miles tried electrolytes didn't do much for me . Just drink before your thirsty little and often . If you can't already learn to drink and ride at the same time


Cheers, must admit I see all these drink supplement's for sale nod did wonder if water was now so old school.


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## pirsos (18 Feb 2016)

great advices


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## ccelegance (12 May 2016)

I'm new to cycling, I've not cycled in 10 years when I was a kid. I recently purchased a pendleton bike and loving it


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## Alltalk (23 May 2016)

Kopper said:


> I can now answer my own post.
> 
> I don't need a new bike I just need to pedal more efficiently and keep building the strength in my legs to do so.



Depends. That is about the most basic bike available bar a supermarket or Sports Direct. Good that you are making an effort and all but you will enjoy it a lot more with something better quality. Under £200 can get you something decent 2nd hand - but unless you know the basics it's going to be a viper's nest.

Good luck and happy riding anyway x


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## DEFENDER01 (4 Jun 2016)

greyhopper said:


> I think the problem with halfords is not necessarily the bikes, the carreras for example tend to be very good, but unfortunately if you are a beginner you cannot necessarily rely on them to put the bike together properly or even in a way that makes it safe to ride.


I agree with carreras being a good bike i have had the Carrera vengeance for a couple of years now bought second hand stripped it down and rebuilt it new tyres / tubes rear cassette brake pads etc so i know its put together o/k and i have been more than happy with it.
If i had Halfrauds build a bike i would certainly want to check it over before ridding it.


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## Nicelinice (30 Jul 2016)

This helped a lot!


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## Velominati (27 Aug 2016)

stoatsngroats said:


> Great post Andy, I just have 1 concern...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have bought a few bikes from Halfords and I've never had any problems, the mechanic seemed to know his stuff, perhaps each store is different.


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## stoatsngroats (28 Aug 2016)

@Velominati Wow! y post was from 2008! I think that Halfords have changed quite a bit since then, and I still think that they are fine for Carrera and now Boardman. So, for me, still a good place to go, if they are all that is local to you, and considering a new bike.
As always though, you need to consider what you are getting for your cash, and compare the online deals (and the wait involved getting your new bike this way) before you part with your cash.
I have purchased 2 used bikes in the last 8 weeks, because I know what I wanted, and Carrera/Boardman etc didn't have what I wanted. A friend has urchased a Ribble, from one of their weekly deals, so it is about making one's own choice.
I still have BC membership, and will still visit Halfords as a result!


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## GeorgeCurios (31 Aug 2016)

Great piece of advice


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## Daddy Pig (24 Sep 2016)

Just remember that getting the right fit is more important than getting a good deal on a bike. You may find that the bike you think is right for you is a wrong fit.


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## CycleD (25 Sep 2016)

I brought a bike several years ago from Halfords and 20 minutes into my ride home after they put it together the handle bars popped out leaving me riding my bike like something out of a Laural and Hardy sketch


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## SoloOwners (28 Oct 2016)

I've got a couple of old road bikes that I bought for $40 USD each and refurbished. A 24" frame LeTour and a 20" frame Huffy for backup and guests.
I notice that a lot of road and paved trail riders strip their machines down to nothing. I've a bottle holder, extra reflectors, tube & repair, hand pump, LCD torch, etc.
I don't mind the extra weight. It's much the same theory as runners sometimes putting on ankle and wrist weight.
My thought is that I just get a little more out of my workout.


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## GuyBoden (19 Nov 2016)

Learn to maintain your bike, give it a 10min check it over before every long(ish) ride, that's the tyres, wheels, brakes, gears, chain and make sure nothing is loose.


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## david k (27 Dec 2016)

Spin your legs faster than feels natural at first, use lower gears than feels right, it will eventually feel normal and you will get less thigh muscle burn from stomping then stopping, stomping then stopping. 

So think spin in circles faster than a walking tempo and slower than a sprint


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## Simon_73 (8 Feb 2017)

Many thanks, very informative.


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## Moojii (12 Feb 2017)

Newbie here. 

Not cycled for nigh on 20 years and my wife and I feel it's time to lose some weight and get out there. Our 8 year old has been badgering us too as she loves cycling. 

Went to oi local shop at the weekend and bought a forme peak trail 3 for me and a python Daytona for the missus. 

Can't wait to pick them up next Saturday.


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## Alan O (27 Feb 2017)

Moojii said:


> Newbie here.
> 
> Not cycled for nigh on 20 years and my wife and I feel it's time to lose some weight and get out there. Our 8 year old has been badgering us too as she loves cycling.
> 
> ...


I started cycling again last year after a similar break, and it's one of the best things I've done - I really wish I'd got back to it a lot sooner. Enjoy your new bikes, your return to cycling, and your time at this very friendly and helpful forum.

Alan


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## Philhh (28 Feb 2017)

Daddy Pig said:


> Just remember that getting the right fit is more important than getting a good deal on a bike. You may find that the bike you think is right for you is a wrong fit.


 You are so right-Getting the right fit is really important for men but especially for women-the girls my lady cycles with all have cross bar brakes for example -because shimano levers are too big for their hands (she has campaignolo which are thinner) she has a ladies saddle and a shorter stem and it took quite a bit of time getting her bike right but now it is right she loves it (them-a ribble 725 and genesis 30)This can make all the difference to your enjoyment look at Victoria Pendleton comments and british cyclings solutions regarding saddle positions for girls if you are fitting a bike up for a lady


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## GuyBoden (27 Mar 2017)

Dark Sunglasses can at times make it difficult to see pot holes in the shady parts of the road, obviously this can be a dangerous combination.


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## Bonacentral (13 May 2017)

If you are new or 20 years off search Google for articles and what type of bike you will need. 

MTBs were all the rage in my youth in the 90s. Everyone had them. The closest I ever got to a "mountain" was the heath an old BMX track and old railway lines. I guess we were all young, dumb and full of come and expended excessive energy that never really got us anywhere!!

If the majority of your riding is going to be on roads or cyclepaths you really don't need suspension.

For most people a double - 2 chainrings with 18 - 22 gears is more than enough. 

For most people a COMPACT double with chainrings 50 and 34 teeth is more than enough

You are infinitely better off losing weight off your body before you start paying to lose it off your bike. 

Get a decent lock. Get decent lights - and use them and ensure they stay charged or you get batteries. Use a rear in the daytime. 

Remember to use the "lifesaver" - look over your right shoulder and basically have good vision and awareness. The amount of drivers who don't is dangerous. 

You don't need a bell. If you on a shared path and someone isn't aware of you slow down and say "excuse me"....

Hopefully you get the gist haha!!


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## emilyisfun (8 Aug 2017)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


Hey Thank you so much for this Andy, this post was SUPERRRRR helpfull!



Scoosh said:


> Excellent stuff, andyfromotley.
> 
> Admin - should this be a Sticky ?


Agreeed, probrbly shoudl be, this can help allot of peolpe


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## Ociessly (9 Aug 2017)

Hi, I'm a newbie, and thank you for advice. Actually i wanted to start the professional cycling era in my life, but not so long ago i started to have some health problems related with sleep disorder and i just stopped my goal, and started to treat my disorder, but I'm sure that soon I'm going to feel much better, and all the advises that you have shared here are going to be useful for me. Thank you !


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## mattp (15 Aug 2017)

I've had a bike for years but would still class myself as a newbie. Very good advice :-). My question is though - how do you know when you're ready to go from a MTB to road bike? I've found that my MTB with road orientated tyres is just too heavy for long rides, but still don't know if Hybrid or Road is the way forward.


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## stoatsngroats (19 Aug 2017)

Matts, I would say it depends on what you'll be doing most, as road cycling is better than hybrid if all you cycle is along made roads. If venturing off tarmac, maybe a hybrid, but consider where you'll ride most?
I'm just selling my road bike, as my partner prefers tracks and unmade roads due to limited confidence, but my road bike has been great for 13 mile e/w commutes. A hybrid would have been ok, but the racer is much better!
We'll be getting emtb soon, and that will be the end of my road days!


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## Wildsnoopster (21 Aug 2017)

Very helpful. This aligns to most that I have read. However I have a range of questions that stem from the first question you are asked as a new rider. What is the purpose. 

So my purpose is initially to provide a rest for my legs when running. So I run 4 times a week and want one of those to be a cycle to reduce impact injuries. I am not cycle fit but have run marathons in the past so am not generally unfit. 

However my plan is that this bike will also be used for a commute into London once or twice a week once I have developed some cycle fitness and then there is also a desire to try out a triathlon at some point. 

Will a roadbike with the appropriate eyelets for mudguards be OK for this. The commute would be c30k each way. 

Also I wanted to ask what are the essentials to get other than the bike? I have cycle vest, padded shorts, shoes, lights and waterproofs down but there is so much to choose from and I'm a bit sceptical of what is needed and what is just cycle shops trying to make a profit.


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## stoatsngroats (21 Aug 2017)

[QUOTE="Wildsnoopster, post: 4925626, member: 52725]
Will a roadbike with the appropriate eyelets for mudguards be OK for this. The commute would be c30k each way.

Also I wanted to ask what are the essentials to get other than the bike? I have cycle vest, padded shorts, shoes, lights and waterproofs down but there is so much to choose from....[/QUOTE]

I use one of those removable mudguards, cannot remember which, and it's been fine.
I would have a spare tube, multi tool, scabs, etc, and a pump and co2 cylinder, all in the seat bag.
Oh, and a banana too!


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## 50K (22 Sep 2017)

_*(Sorry, this post is in reply to page 1 where fellow users are saying you should go to your local rather than other options, here's my take on it)*_

I went to my LBS in the interest of keeping my money locally and trying to stop my high street from shutting down completely (there's quite a few close downs in the last couple of years,still empty).
Unfortunately for them, I did my time in a small bike / sports shop nearer to central London (as an assistant mechanic) so saw how some people exaggerate damage in order to up the repair bill, the minute he said ''oh noooo, your bottom bracket needs replacing, it's almost gone!'' I knew he was TTP and that was why I will have a hard time ever trusing a Family / Home bike shop because it happens all too often. So basically, he wanted to do £250 repairs on a £320 hybrid that was a little over a year old - I am a commuter and do perhaps 240-250 kms per week so yes, it needed some real repairs and I fully understand that as a business, he will be charging me a markup on the parts, but to lie outright like that thinking I was just another clueless commuter. The dead giveaway was he didnt even spin the crank before claiming the bracket was almost gone. So people like these individuals, claiming 25 years in the business, who are willing to risk their reputation by mosdescribing the damage deserve bad credit and exposing in my opinion. A good bike shop will have both normal cyclists who dont do any DIY and cycle fanatics who love stripping their bikes both saying that the service is great.

My only experience with Evans is purchasing and going in for the 6 weekly free service, as well as having something replaced under warranty which was a bad experience, they replaced a decent tyre with some glossy fong kong thing I could have bought on ebay for £8 and I was pretty much accused of overpumping the tyres which caused a blow out. 

I went into Cycle Surgery once and unfortunately they didn't sell the part I needed, but the general service and advice I received was excellent and I now wish I had one nearby. 

In conclusion, I am now a youtube / ebay DIY repairer which is good that I am learning new skills but sad for my local economy as I'm not too keen that some of my money goes to US big business ...

PS: this is my first post, not intended to be a rant, cheers


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## 50K (22 Sep 2017)

Wildsnoopster said:


> Will a roadbike with the appropriate eyelets for mudguards be OK for this. The commute would be c30k each way.
> 
> Also I wanted to ask what are the essentials to get other than the bike? I have cycle vest, padded shorts, shoes, lights and waterproofs down but there is so much to choose from and I'm a bit sceptical of what is needed and what is just cycle shops trying to make a profit.



Order tyreliners online, one set should do fine, I initially ordered 2 sets but what happens is that they slide inside the tyre and end up slicing the sides of the innter tube, I also slice a line down the inside of an old inner tube and use this as a barrier between the tyre and the liner (which sits normally between the tube and tyre). This makes my tyres almost inpenetrable (I'm using low end kevlar guard tyres on a commuter hybrid), the only things which penetrate are serious shards of glass and sometimes pyracantha thorns / hawthorns. I get less than one puncure a month and I commute about the same as what you are planning.

Try hit the canals if you can for your commute to get away from the loonies!! trust me, this is essential if you can. DONT CYCLE THE CANAL IF YOU REFUSE TO USE YOUR BELL! <friendly warning 

A proper lock! even if you think its alright you can store your bike somewhere at work etc. remember they WILL NOT let you on with a non folding bike on the tube or any other rail inside peak hours no matter what your physical condition is (TFL / LU are now a careless corporation that has zero compassion, it's rare to be able to find a human being who will give you a break at 4:01 pm to let you on with your bike). So may end up needing to lock your bike at a station if you end up with a serious bike issue etc. We used to see a few people come in, spend loads on the bike and accessories then buy a £5 lock (the shop I used to work in bought locks from 99p stores and resold them for £5!) only to come in a week later asking what is the cheapest bike we sold ... you can guess where the other one went.

Gloves, knee protection and kidney protection if you are going to cycle in the colder months.

Cycling with waterproofs is horrible, I only do it because I work outdoors and have nowhere to change / store other clothing. get good mudguards and waterproof shoes.

Decent pannier rack and bag/s (I got all mine online) because you get back pains / neck strain with backpacks over long distances like that.

Loud bell (people these days cycle / walk / jog with damn earphones in on full blast) not to mention they are zombified by their ''smart'' phones and can hardly walk straight nevermind properly navigate around a city ...

Pump with gauge, spare tubes, triangle allen key, adjustable spanner, philipps screwdriver etc.

I think that's it.


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## Alan O (22 Sep 2017)

50K said:


> _*(Sorry, this post is in reply to page 1 where fellow users are saying you should go to your local rather than other options, here's my take on it)*_
> 
> I went to my LBS in the interest of keeping my money locally and trying to stop my high street from shutting down completely (there's quite a few close downs in the last couple of years,still empty).
> Unfortunately for them, I did my time in a small bike / sports shop nearer to central London (as an assistant mechanic) so saw how some people exaggerate damage in order to up the repair bill, the minute he said ''oh noooo, your bottom bracket needs replacing, it's almost gone!'' I knew he was TTP and that was why I will have a hard time ever trusing a Family / Home bike shop because it happens all too often. So basically, he wanted to do £250 repairs on a £320 hybrid that was a little over a year old - I am a commuter and do perhaps 240-250 kms per week so yes, it needed some real repairs and I fully understand that as a business, he will be charging me a markup on the parts, but to lie outright like that thinking I was just another clueless commuter. The dead giveaway was he didnt even spin the crank before claiming the bracket was almost gone. So people like these individuals, claiming 25 years in the business, who are willing to risk their reputation by mosdescribing the damage deserve bad credit and exposing in my opinion. A good bike shop will have both normal cyclists who dont do any DIY and cycle fanatics who love stripping their bikes both saying that the service is great.
> ...


There are rip-off merchants in any trade, but I do think a good LBS is worth a lot (if you can find a good one). At the moment I have a bike in with my local one (Quinns in Liverpool) for a tricky headset fitting, and they've quoted approx £20 - which seems perfectly reasonable to me.


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## Randombiker9 (26 Sep 2017)

Tips to new cyclists. It's only been a few months since I started cycling to college.
The things I've learnt is always have a working bike make sure you do a quick check before you go out e.g air brakes chain quick release
Also when out on the road remember these 5 things
Be confident- if your confident you'll be fine with your bike handing
Be visible and heard- have lights at dawn dusk and night which is the law. Also reflective chlothing and flurescont is a good idea. If you don't have any of these and just cycle when it's light outside wear bright chlothing and if possible if you wear a helmet try to also get a bright colour
Be aware
Be alert
Be assertive
Be predictable (always signal and make eye contact when needed)
Locking tip- if you only have one lock. Put the lock through rear wheel, frame and stand. I see so many people making this mistake just putting there lock through stand and top tube. (If u do this anyone could easily steal your wheels especially if it has quick releases). Also avoid CABLE Locks.
If drivers or other cyclists are stupid just ignore them. Some cyclists don't know to Not cycle in gutter or away from parked cars.
Don't cycle in gutter as there's lots of potholes, drains and debris there. Stay away from the door zone of cars. This is to avoid getting hit by driver and passenger doors suddenly open.
Also if roads are narrow or have too many parked cars don't be afraid to take up the lane as this is allowed.
Follow road laws. Laws are there for every road users safety
Also some people might not agree on this last tip but because I live in an area where there loads of buses. That I prefer not to overtake them as if there about to pull out or turning you don't want to get clipped by a bus (same applies to HGV'S) as remember these veichles have more blind spots than other veichles. Plus isn't it just better to wait a minuite and be safer


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## Shut Up Legs (26 Sep 2017)

I hope you don't mind if I make a few comments on what you posted.



Randombiker9 said:


> If drivers or other cyclists are stupid just ignore them.


Never ignore motorists. Yes, it's generally a good idea not to let them provoke you, but never ignore them, because if they do something unpredictable and/or stupid, you need to be prepared for it.


Randombiker9 said:


> Also some people might not agree on this last tip but because I live in an area where there loads of buses. That I prefer not to overtake them as if there about to pull out or turning you don't want to get clipped by a bus (same applies to HGV'S) as remember these veichles have more blind spots than other veichles. Plus isn't it just better to wait a minuite and be safer


I agree with this. I generally do the same if I think a bus driver is about to leave his stop. I'll stop behind the bus, but not so close I get the full impact of the bus' filthy exhaust fumes, and I'll always stop in primary position, in case some motorist tries to squeeze past me.


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## Randombiker9 (27 Sep 2017)

Shut Up Legs said:


> I hope you don't mind if I make a few comments on what you posted.
> 
> 
> Never ignore motorists. Yes, it's generally a good idea not to let them provoke you, but never ignore them, because if they do something unpredictable and/or stupid, you need to be prepared for it.
> ...



When I meant ignore I meant if they say something stupid. Isn't it a driver that has a go at you bassically a bully and like what do you do when you get bullied. Ignore it or tell someone. You don't really confront them as that tends to make it worse. So why would you confront a driver about his actions?. Plus whenever I've ignored people they don't do anything afterwards. Because if you say something back it's bound to escalate as isn't that what road rage is?

True I don't notice the fumes of the bus near me (But I don't know if that's because sometimes the drivers seem to switch there engine off for one minuite and then back on again.) But if the bus is blocking the view of the other lane to overtake I stay behind and wait because you don't want to cycle into oncoming traffic. and I agree with primary position or if the bus is. about to turn etc..


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## Andy_R (16 Nov 2017)

Randombiker9 said:


> Be visible and heard- have lights at dawn dusk and night which is the law. Also reflective chlothing and flurescont is a good idea. If you don't have any of these and just cycle when it's light outside wear bright chlothing and if possible if you wear a helmet try to also get a bright colour



Very good advice, given the following proviso - ride where you can be seen, i.e. not in the gutter. Primary at junctions, through roundabouts, and through pinch points. Secondary when the roads are wide enough to allow safe overtaking. If you can't be seen then no amount of hi-viz and/or lights will matter. Also be aware that strangely enough, hi - viz can blend into the background in busy urban areas.


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## Rickshaw Phil (16 Nov 2017)

Andy_R said:


> Very good advice, given the following proviso - ride where you can be seen, i.e. not in the gutter. Primary at junctions, through roundabouts, and through pinch points. Secondary when the roads are wide enough to allow safe overtaking. If you can't be seen then no amount of hi-viz and/or lights will matter.* Also be aware that strangely enough, hi - viz can blend into the background in busy urban areas.*


Also in the countryside in certain conditions. Yellow flourescent clothing can be quite good camouflage in fog.


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## Randombiker9 (16 Nov 2017)

Andy_R said:


> Very good advice, given the following proviso - ride where you can be seen, i.e. not in the gutter. Primary at junctions, through roundabouts, and through pinch points. Secondary when the roads are wide enough to allow safe overtaking. If you can't be seen then no amount of hi-viz and/or lights will matter. Also be aware that strangely enough, hi - viz can blend into the background in busy urban areas.


Yeah, cyclists shouldn’t ride in gutter as 1. You could get a flat or there’s quite a few hazards e.g potholes etc... in gutters that could cause you to fall off. The only time it’s ok to ride in the gutter is if like a veichle or HGV or bus close overtakes you too closely which pretty much forces you into the gutter. But even then it’s better to get back in your position away from the gutter after the vehicle has overtaken u. Primary through roundabouts is just spossed to prevent drives being idiots e.g close passes, turning infront of u when ur going straight etc... not to mention cars don’t always indicate or are in the wrong lane etc....
If you think about it pretty much any clothing can blend in to environment. Also not to mention like HGV’s it’s all ways best to cycle in front or wait behind till it’s completed it’s turn at a junction etc..


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## Beukez (11 Jan 2018)

WOw some good stuff here...


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## Beukez (11 Jan 2018)

stoatsngroats said:


> cool mate...no worries...!


 ...


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## RegG (23 May 2018)

One piece of advice for newcomers which can save injury and/or damage....... NEVER ride through puddles, you don't know how big the pothole is under the puddle!


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## RegG (24 May 2018)

And another piece of advice following the witnessing of a very silly bit of riding this morning that could easily of ended up with the rider suffering serious injury....... don't ignore red traffic lights! This mornings incident saw a cyclist (all kitted out on a nice looking carbon bike) ride down the outside of a queue of traffic waiting at a red light at roadworks then completely ignore the red light to ride in front of traffic from his right as it moved away on a green light. So stupid!


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## Alan O (24 May 2018)

RegG said:


> And another piece of advice following the witnessing of a very silly bit of riding this morning that could easily of ended up with the rider suffering serious injury....... don't ignore red traffic lights! This mornings incident saw a cyclist (all kitted out on a nice looking carbon bike) ride down the outside of a queue of traffic waiting at a red light at roadworks then completely ignore the red light to ride in front of traffic from his right moved away on a green light. So stupid!


Yep, so obvious that you'd think it shouldn't need saying, but...


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## gqtuazon (19 Jun 2018)

Just checking in. Newbie to road bikes. Still trying to digest a lot of information to have a more pleasant and safe ride.


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## tom73 (19 Jun 2018)

gqtuazon said:


> Just checking in. Newbie to road bikes. Still trying to digest a lot of information to have a more pleasant and safe ride.



Newbie here too your right so much to digest. But main thing is just enjoy it and learn as you go. 
If you want plenty of helpful advice you will find it here and it's a friendly bunch too


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## Dbt (22 Jun 2018)

When on cycle tracks ride on the left, same as you would on the road. I nearly had a head on crash on my way home last night. Two cyclists coming towards me, the lead cyclist moved to his left the woman following him didn’t, leaving me virtually no where to go. Luckily she wobbled further to the right so I could just squeeze between them.


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## gqtuazon (23 Jun 2018)

Dbt said:


> When on cycle tracks ride on the left, same as you would on the road. I nearly had a head on crash on my way home last night. Two cyclists coming towards me, the lead cyclist moved to his left the woman following him didn’t, leaving me virtually no where to go. Luckily she wobbled further to the right so I could just squeeze between them.



Does that apply to a specific country or it is a universal assumption?


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## Dbt (23 Jun 2018)

It applies in the uk, and a few other countries such as Cyprus.


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## CXRAndy (2 Sep 2018)

Ride central in the road, become a rolling road block, .Drivers must pass with care.


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## alicat (2 Sep 2018)

> One piece of advice for newcomers which can save injury and/or damage....... NEVER ride through puddles, you don't know how big the pothole is under the puddle!



Spot on, my rule is 'Never ride through water when you can't see the bottom.'


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## Jason7686 (4 Sep 2018)

Wow, as a newbie, not only some great advice here on buying, but some great tips on riding that hadn't even occured to me. Thanks to everyone contributing.. ( hopefully I can do the same when I get a bit of experience )


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## Mrklaw (5 Sep 2018)

How about narrow tracks like public (shared) footpaths that aren’t wide for easy left/right lane use? I’d guess ride in the Center to avoid issues riding too close to the edge and falling off, and then pass oncoming riders/pedestrians slowly by pulling over to the left?


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## vickster (5 Sep 2018)

CXRAndy said:


> Ride central in the road, become a rolling road block, .Drivers must pass with care.


And get loads of abuse and risk close passes if it's actually fine for you be further to the left (not in the gutter however)


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## Mrklaw (5 Sep 2018)

vickster said:


> And get loads of abuse and risk close passes if it's actually fine for you be further to the left (not in the gutter however)



Basically ride about 1.5m away from the nearest obstacle on your left - curb, parked car? Likewise look ahead and if there are any spots where passing is likely to cause a close pass - like a pinch point caused by a pedestrian island in the middle of the road - then move to 'take' the carriageway to prevent any passing (which may inadvertently turn into a close pass even if the driver is considerate but not observant)


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## vickster (5 Sep 2018)

Mrklaw said:


> Basically ride about 1.5m away from the nearest obstacle on your left - curb, parked car? Likewise look ahead and if there are any spots where passing is likely to cause a close pass - like a pinch point caused by a pedestrian island in the middle of the road - then move to 'take' the carriageway to prevent any passing (which may inadvertently turn into a close pass even if the driver is considerate but not observant)



Indeed, past parked cars, I prefer to be further out if possible


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## new on bike (13 Sep 2018)

hi thanks for advise it means I got rav4 lol
I like to ask you about merida big seven 100 is it good bike


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## Pat "5mph" (14 Sep 2018)

new on bike said:


> hi thanks for advise it means I got rav4 lol
> I like to ask you about merida big seven 100 is it good bike


Hi @new on bike and welcome to CC!
The correct place to post your question is here click on blue link, click on "start a new thread" then post your question.


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## Ineedbikeadvise (15 Nov 2018)

Well said. Good points, easy enough yo understand


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## DCBassman (22 Dec 2018)

Specialized Mick said:


> Hi, I am new. Is there a place where I can introduce myself?


Indeed, and welcome. Go to main forum list and scroll down, you'll find New Member Introductions, here's a link
https://www.cyclechat.net/forums/new-member-introductions.14/


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## Rach1 (10 Jan 2019)

Great advice thank you all. As a newbie I felt a bit cheeky holding the road for my safety. I see now that is what is advised so thanks for clarification. Car doors opening and considering what might be coming from the left has also been very useful. Just bought myself a back light.


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## bladderhead (17 Mar 2019)

I have not read all this thread, therefore someone has probably already said this. Go to your LBS. Because you never know what is exactly wrong with the bike until you have ridden it several times. Then you become a critic. Then you can tell your LBS that your saddle is too hard or too soft, or your gears are too high or too low or not working properly, or the brake levers are hard to reach, or something, just one thing that will make the ride so much nicer. LBS will be able to sell you exactly the right thing, or maybe adjust it and not even try to sell you anything.

If you know exactly what component you want then maybe Alfie or the internet has got it. But you are reading this here thread because you have no idea what to buy. So give Alfie a miss. You think a shop that is full of bikes and smells of rubber is a good shop, but it is a disguise. LBS is the real thing.

Trouble is, the LBS is an endangered species, and you are lucky if there is one nearby. LBS = Long Bloody Schlepp. But don't let them disappear altogether.


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## cyberknight (17 Mar 2019)

alicat said:


> Spot on, my rule is 'Never ride through water when you can't see the bottom.'


it depends on how sheer the lycra is on the rider in front


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## Bhitucyclist (22 Apr 2019)

I have a pendleton brooke 15 16... very good for commuting to work. I also did the london to brighton ride on it. But this year i am doing the london to paris and while practicing i cant do more than 9miles /hr on average. Do you think i should go for a different bike .. or is it only mine stamina problem. I am short so cant ride the bigger adult frames. Feeling a bit nervous now. Would be grateful for any advice.


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## CXRAndy (31 May 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> I have a pendleton brooke 15 16... very good for commuting to work. I also did the london to brighton ride on it. But this year i am doing the london to paris and while practicing i cant do more than 9miles /hr on average. Do you think i should go for a different bike .. or is it only mine stamina problem. I am short so cant ride the bigger adult frames. Feeling a bit nervous now. Would be grateful for any advice.



The Pendleton is a heavy(12kg) wide tyre hybrid. 

Did you change tyres to narrower, smooth tread? The tyres are 26" diameter. These would be much faster https://www.bike24.com/p2197004.html if you haven't swapped tyres yet. 

A road bike with drop bars would also increase speed by immediately making you more aero position, as opposed to sit up hybrid. 

If I remember your event is in September? There is time to swap to another bike, but you need to make the decision soon so you can adapt to it.  Cant you borrow/or buy with trial to see if you like a road bike

This bike https://www.rutlandcycling.com/bike...zjPczgoHZndtw10hTzoaAlc6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Comes in frames sizes for 4'11" 5'1" They have 30 test ride policy(check details) Sold elsewhere. 

If you can ride London to Brighton and didnt feel like death at the end there is nothing wrong with fitness/stamina.

Advice for speed training, ride hard for 1 minute, slow down to recover and repeat until you can do any more. You should be able to get upto 18-20mph for a minute. Its not about the actual speed just the pushing above your cruise limit. Use a fast-ish cadence 85-95rpm. this trains your legs muscles and nervous system to be fast reacting.


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## Bhitucyclist (31 May 2019)

CXRAndy said:


> The Pendleton is a heavy(12kg) wide tyre hybrid.
> 
> Did you change tyres to narrower, smooth tread? The tyres are 26" diameter. These would be much faster https://www.bike24.com/p2197004.html if you haven't swapped tyres yet.
> 
> ...


Yes my event is in sept. I have changed the tyres... and that made a lot of diff... 
Yes london brighton was al right. Actually didnt feel any tiredness or cramps after that . But there was no time pressure ... i finished it in 5.43 hrs. 
For l2p there is finishing times each day and hence i am worried. 
Will try the cadence training that sounds good


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## DCBassman (31 May 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Yes my event is in sept. I have changed the tyres... and that made a lot of diff...
> Yes london brighton was al right. Actually didnt feel any tiredness or cramps after that . But there was no time pressure ... i finished it in 5.43 hrs.
> For l2p there is finishing times each day and hence i am worried.
> Will try the cadence training that sounds good


Don't be. It's about getting time in the saddle, and if you've already done L2B, you've a good start. Just keep at it, get the new bike if you want. Despite what @CXRAndy says, the biggest advantage of drops for the slower rider is multiple hand positions; aero only really matters in terms of speed, speed, speed. And 12kg is not that heavy a bike either, I did L2B on a 15kg steel mtb, no problem. Tyres were the thing, and you've already seen the difference they make. In fact, I'll likely do L2B again next year, on the same bike, with better gears than before, and huge 50mm tyres. It might not be fast, but it _will_ be comfy!


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## CXRAndy (31 May 2019)

DCBassman said:


> @CXRAndy says, the biggest advantage of drops for the slower rider is multiple hand positions; aero only really matters in terms of speed, speed, speed



I agree with the multiple hand positions, but free extra speed comes from tilted upper body even when riding on top of the hoods. Further free speed on top comes from riding on the drop bars or once experienced puppy paws technique.

All this on the premise that the rider is comfortable on a road bike, most are, but not all.


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## DCBassman (31 May 2019)

CXRAndy said:


> I agree with the multiple hand positions, but free extra speed comes from tilted upper body even when riding on top of the hoods. Further free speed on top comes from riding on the drop bars or once experienced puppy paws technique.
> 
> All this on the premise that the rider is comfortable on a road bike, most are, but not all.


Indeed so, me being one. I have a "proper" road bike, but it has flat bars now. @Bhitucyclist, it may also be possible that if you got a drop bar bike, you might very soon come to prefer it, the majority of riders do seem to change over.


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## Bhitucyclist (1 Jun 2019)

Hi all spotted this second hand bike thT i really like ... what to do you think... i will change the handle bars to straight handle bars. The shop is asking for 275 for bike alone . Am i better off with the triban vs this ?


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## vickster (1 Jun 2019)

As your other thread, if you don't want drops, don't buy a drop bar bike. Waste of time and money converting, just buy flats straight off (pun intended  )

Did you see the bargain Vita I linked?

Also, aren't you 5'2? Any men's Defy is likely to be too big, even an XS (I'm 5'10 and a medium was too big for me). IF you do want drops, look at the Avail, wsd version, smaller frame sizes, shorter cranks, narrower bars, women's saddle fitted (I had a medium 2012 version)

For your endurance ride, you need the right sized bike to be comfortable and avoid injury


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## Bhitucyclist (1 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> As your other thread, if you don't want drops, don't buy a drop bar bike. Waste of time and money converting, just buy flats straight off (pun intended  )
> 
> Did you see the bargain Vita I linked?
> 
> ...


Oh i lost track of the threads.
yes i checked out the triban.
Looking for cheaper options also.
This one is ladies xs so size was ok


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## vickster (1 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Oh i lost track of the threads.
> yes i checked out the triban.
> Looking for cheaper options also.
> This one is ladies xs so size was ok


I meant the second hand eBay one for £150

In Essex https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Specialize...5f9afffe9cd6&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true

Defy is a men’s bike no? Women’s called Avail?


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## Bhitucyclist (1 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Oh i lost track of the threads.
> yes i checked out the triban.
> Looking for cheaper options also.
> This one is ladies xs so size was ok


Oh what do think of the price ... do u think its a good price ?


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## vickster (1 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Oh what do think of the price ... do u think its a good price ?



What model and year is it? What is the Groupset? Sora? Looks like a triple chain set...lord knows when Giant last fitted one to the Defy...minimum five or more years ago? If so, it's well overpirced I think...
Are you absolutely sure it's a ladies XS size. How wide are the handlebars? How long are the cranks?


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## vickster (1 Jun 2019)

Ok it's this one, 6 years old at least and as I thought it's a men's bike...the shop appears to be BSing you if claiming it's a women's bike..or they're clueless if giving benefit of doubt

https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/giant/defy-4-triple--2013

You might be ok on an XS if a long body 5'2 but you need to ride it properly

https://www.giant-bicycles.com/_upload_au/rider_height_frame_size.pdf

Don't buy to convert, it'll cost you £200 so just buy a new flat bar...or a used one even better


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## vickster (1 Jun 2019)

This is more expensive, but a far better bet and spec I'd say IF you want drops

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GIANT-AV...567132?hash=item3b2eff811c:g:gZ8AAOSwey5cqYk9


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## CXRAndy (3 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> Don't buy to convert, it'll cost you £200 so just buy a new flat bar...or a used one even better



This line is above is accurate, don't waste money


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## CXRAndy (3 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> Ok it's this one, 6 years old at least and as I thought it's a men's bike...the shop appears to be BSing you if claiming it's a women's bike..or they're clueless if giving benefit of doubt
> 
> https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/giant/defy-4-triple--2013
> 
> ...



The Defy triple will have excellent gearing range. The only IF, is do you feel comfortable on it? Test ride, not just for 10 mins, an hour if you can. Things like saddles can be swapped from your other bike if needs be


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## Bhitucyclist (4 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> Ok it's this one, 6 years old at least and as I thought it's a men's bike...the shop appears to be BSing you if claiming it's a women's bike..or they're clueless if giving benefit of doubt
> 
> https://www.thebikelist.co.uk/giant/defy-4-triple--2013
> 
> ...


Thanks for all your help...really nice of you to find out more details on it 
Ok ... i have now ordered the triban womans road flat bar . This one 

But then i saw another model same brand that is far cheaper.£249. I dont understand the difference so thinking of ordering that one too and then test riding both to see what the difference is 

Sorry for so many questions!


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## CXRAndy (4 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Thanks for all your help...really nice of you to find out more details on it
> Ok ... i have now ordered the triban womans road flat bar . This one
> 
> But then i saw another model same brand that is far cheaper.£249. I dont understand the difference so thinking of ordering that one too and then test riding both to see what the difference is
> ...



Ive tried to be detailed and compare tech features. Ride quality and comfort is individual- that is for test rides.

The cheaper bike has a single front chain ring gearing 700C wheels
44t chainring
Cassette 14-28t
Gear inches(dont worry tech) wider the number the better 41"-83"

The slightly more expensive has double front chainrings gearing 700C wheels
50/34t chainrings
Cassette 11-32t
Gear inches 28"-120"

The double chainring bike has greater range and lower gearing for hills

Your current bike Pendleton Brooke 26" wheels
triple chainrings 48/38/28
14-28t cassette Gear inch 23-82"

*23-*82" Bold number lower is better for cycling easily up hills
23-*82" *Bold number faster you go downhill slopes or flat roads

*Four questions for you*

Height-cant remember?
What is your max budget-be honest?
Why flat bar and not consider drop bars?
Did you walk up Ditchling beacon when you did London to Brighton?

I/We can search for suitable bikes and give you an honest opinion. I'm not biased to one brand or another just functionality for your up coming event
This article has some helpful tips on what to look for in a womans road bike. Ignore prices for the higher models https://www.cyclingweekly.com/group...-buyers-guide-to-female-specific-bikes-321311

https://www.liv-cycling.com/gb/avail-2 Giant bikes
This bike if its your price range and height is a good deal
Spec 700C wheels
chainrings 50/34
cassette 11-34 gear inches 26-120"
Fits riders 5'0" and upwards

Dealers in London https://www.liv-cycling.com/gb/retailers


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## vickster (4 Jun 2019)

@CXRAndy she’s 5’2

Most people end up walking Ditchling on L2B due to the volume of people!


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## CXRAndy (4 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> @CXRAndy she’s 5’2
> 
> Most people end up walking Ditchling on L2B due to the volume of people!



Ta 5'2" then the LIV or Dolce would be suitable if I can understand the issue around drop bars?

Re Ditchling. its a good indicator for fitness and gearing on the bike they attempted it on. Did they struggle with very slow cadence or were they able to spin away seated

I doubt there is anything more severe a hill on the London to Paris route


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## DCBassman (4 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Thanks for all your help...really nice of you to find out more details on it
> Ok ... i have now ordered the triban womans road flat bar . This one
> 
> But then i saw another model same brand that is far cheaper.£249. I dont understand the difference so thinking of ordering that one too and then test riding both to see what the difference is
> ...


The Intermediate is a better-specced, lighter machine with a 2x9 gearing setup, as opposed to 1x9. Worth the difference if the sizing is right, I'd say.


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## DCBassman (4 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> @CXRAndy she’s 5’2
> 
> Most people end up walking Ditchling on L2B due to the volume of people!


Yup, been there...my son managed to latch on to the wheel of a thrusting, yelling roadie and got up in one go!


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## vickster (4 Jun 2019)

CXRAndy said:


> Ta 5'2" then the LIV or Dolce would be suitable if I can understand the issue around drop bars?
> 
> Re Ditchling. its a good indicator for fitness and gearing on the bike they attempted it on. Did they struggle with very slow cadence or were they able to spin away seated
> 
> I doubt there is anything more severe a hill on the London to Paris route


I think her average speed is low on the Pendleton, 10mph, but that might be a London commute so not necessarily genuinely that slow

Some people just don't like drops, but it may be a confidence or getting used to thing. I have crosslever brakes on 4/5 drop bar bikes and I barely ever ride the 5th. They are definitely worth adding esp if riding in traffic (both of my female cycling friends have them too)


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## CXRAndy (4 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> I think her average speed is low on the Pendleton, 10mph, but that might be a London commute so not necessarily genuinely that slow
> 
> Some people just don't like drops, but it may be a confidence or getting used to thing. I have crosslever brakes on 4/5 drop bar bikes and I barely ever ride the 5th. They are definitely worth adding esp if riding in traffic (both of my female cycling friends have them too)



I didn't want to over complicate things with extra add-ons. Just off the shelf bike that will fit her and do the job well. Until she replies and gives us a bit more information, the better we are informed. By the timing of her posts it will be tomorrow for a reply


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## vickster (4 Jun 2019)

CXRAndy said:


> I didn't want to over complicate things with extra add-ons. Just off the shelf bike that will fit her and do the job well. Until she replies and gives us a bit more information, the better we are informed. By the timing of her posts it will be tomorrow for a reply


A £20 pair of secondary brakes is hardly over complicating  indeed plenty of wsd bikes have as standard, eg Avails certainly did in the past if not still. Plenty of women including myself struggle to brake confidently on brifters due to hood size, smaller hands, shorter fingers. It’s the reason my bikes have sram not Shimano as the hoods are slimmer and why hydraulic discs are a no go for me. Can’t add secondary levers and the hoods are huge (and fugly). And I’m not petite in any way!

I’m sure she’s said before why drops aren’t for her if you look at past posts


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## Bhitucyclist (4 Jun 2019)

DCBassman said:


> Yup, been there...my son managed to latch on to the wheel of a thrusting, yelling roadie and got up in one go!


I am less than 5 feet


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## Bhitucyclist (4 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> A £20 pair of secondary brakes is hardly over complicating  indeed plenty of wsd bikes have as standard, eg Avails certainly did in the past if not still. Plenty of women including myself struggle to brake confidently on brifters due to hood size, smaller hands, shorter fingers. It’s the reason my bikes have sram not Shimano as the hoods are slimmer and why hydraulic discs are a no go for me. Can’t add secondary levers and the hoods are huge (and fugly). And I’m not petite in any way!
> 
> I’m sure she’s said before why drops aren’t for her if you look at past posts


I am just not used to the drops and feel its too late to try... plus the main practice i get is commuting and cycling around in london using the cs routes .... so dont want to mess on a bike if i am not confident in handling it .


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## Bhitucyclist (4 Jun 2019)

DCBassman said:


> The Intermediate is a better-specced, lighter machine with a 2x9 gearing setup, as opposed to 1x9. Worth the difference if the sizing is right, I'd say.


Yes i am trying it possibly tomorrow. 
But if i can get something faster cheaper that will do the job for L2P then my thinking was why dont i try that also. 
When i did L2B on the pendelton i walked up DB. If there is a similar hill again possibly i will walk up. 
But going downhill i find a bit scary .... so my preference is a bike on which i can do a more controlled descent


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## vickster (4 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> I am less than 5 feet


Ah why not look at the flat bar Wiggins that @Reynard has recommended to you previously?

Fwiw I actually far prefer drops than flat bars in traffic as they're much narrower, better for filtering, going through gaps etc...but with cross lever brakes as I feel more confident and sit more upright so can see further ahead in the traffic feeling safer...this bearing in mind I'm five ten


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## Bhitucyclist (4 Jun 2019)

vickster said:


> Ah why not look at the flat bar Wiggins that @Reynard has recommended to you previously?
> 
> Fwiw I actually far prefer drops than flat bars in traffic as they're much narrower, better for filtering, going through gaps etc...but with cross lever brakes as I feel more confident and sit more upright so can see further ahead in the traffic feeling safer...this bearing in mind I'm five ten


I thought wiggins only offers drop handle road bikes


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## vickster (4 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> I thought wiggins only offers drop handle road bikes


Nope, they do the Chartres

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bi...ybrid-bike-26-wheel?_br_psugg_q=wiggins+bikes


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## Reynard (4 Jun 2019)

The Wiggins has mechanical disc brakes, so good stopping power, plus they'll cope with being "feathered" on descents.

26 inch wheels - I run narrower tyres than the ones supplied.

Triple up front - 44 / 32 / 22

9-speed rear - 11 - 34

That lot should get you up most hills.

Bike weighs a smidgin over 11kg as supplied, so nice and light - mine is kitted out with full guards, rack and panniers and a frame mounted pump so does come in at a bit more.

I've also got ergon grips with bar ends.


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## Reynard (4 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> I thought wiggins only offers drop handle road bikes



I have both the drop bar road bike and the flat bar / hybrid.

Love both, but for long distance comfort the hybrid gets my vote.

It's heavier than the road bike - but not by that much in the scheme of things - but the much lower gearing more than makes up for it. I tend to trundle along at around 10 mph, but then again, I'm not the world's strongest cyclist.


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## DCBassman (4 Jun 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> I am less than 5 feet


Thus it is even more important to get the right bike. Also, the cheaper bike isn't faster, or slower, just...cheaper. The lower gearing on the more expensive bike doesn't mean slower, it means more breadth of choice. I'm personally firmly in the camp of 'plenty of low gearing, please'! For example, I have a full-on older road bike. But now it has flat bars and gearing like a mountain bike. The bike was a freebie, so conversion cost wasn't an issue, but I wanted a light bike with wide gears, so built one, as buying one was a non-starter. The Intermediate is much like that for you, right kit in, hopefully, the right size.


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## CXRAndy (4 Jun 2019)

I wish you well in your quest to find the right bike. 

Final comment if its not significantly different from your current bike, there is no point in swapping, it will not give you the speed you require.


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## Mart44 (11 Jul 2019)

I've got a couple of spare mountain bikes for family to ride when they are staying with us. A Claud Butler and a Trek. Both bikes are fairly old but in good condition. Some don't ride very often and I find the main comments after a day out are not so much aching muscles or about the bikes. It's to do with saddle-soreness. The bikes have got what I'd call comfortable saddles but I suppose there's no such thing as a really comfortable saddle for a beginner.

All I can offer are comforting words saying that if riding is persisted with, this problem seems to magically just stop. I don't know what happens in that area to make it stop ..but it does,


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## Donn (3 Sep 2020)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


Great article Andy, thanks.


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## Punkawallah (30 May 2021)

Sound advice - might want to add a word or two on sizing/fitting? E.g. modern, ‘compact’ frames are more forgiving in sizing than older styles.
Thanks for the time & trouble, in any event :-)


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## bullyg777 (27 Jun 2021)

andyfromotley said:


> *Wondering what sort of bike to buy? Start here.*
> 
> pretty much everyday there is a post on this forum saying,
> 
> ...


Great post Andy, thanks. The first part of your advice fits me to a 't'. I have two very old racing bikes in the rafters of my garage. One is a Claud Butler from the 60's I think was my older brothers and if memory serves me well it was expensive when my parents bought it. I cannot remember the make of the other. As a Newbie on here as of 20 minutes ago I will start digging them out for a dusting down to see what I have and what servicing/parts are needed to get them along the road.


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## weareHKR (27 Jun 2021)

Be nice to see some pics when you get sorted... 📸


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## bullyg777 (28 Jun 2021)

weareHKR said:


> Be nice to see some pics when you get sorted... 📸


Had a look there is the CB. There is no badge or transfer on the head tube but a CB transfer on the seat tube. Under the bottom bracket is a NERVEX stamp and a 14 digit number ending E38???? The other is a larger frame very light Elswick Mistral. They are pretty original as best I can tell, but I do not pretend to know anything about them. The CB has Rigida stickers on the rims and Crimeca hubs?? I can't post photos at the moment until I meet the forum rules regarding newbies/posts. But when I can I will and I would welcome any views. I think the Elswick looks the better size for me but at 92Kgs it does look a little slender


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## RupertKeenlyside (22 Dec 2021)

mickle said:


> I agree with most of your post AFO but am mildly concerned about your classifications. Don't get me wrong, you're definitions are right and I haven't yet formulated an alternative but I am coming to the conclusion that this whole field needs an even simpler approach. If the aim is to enable beginners to establish the right kind of bike for their needs perhaps we need a flow chart of some kind.
> Or a matrixy thing.
> I just think that the use of words like Hybrid are misleading for beginners. As manufacturers strive to fill every perceived gap in the market we end up with a range of bikes, from Roadbikes with flat bars at one end to chunky hub-geared 26" wheeled tanks at the other, all called hybrids. And what is a hybrid anyway? Historically, there were racers and tourers and town bikes. Then the mountain bike came along and nicked all the sales. As the mountain bike boom plateaued, and fearing a repeat of the eighties BMX nose-dive, manufacturers came up with the spiffy idea of putting flat bars and components on touring frames. For want of a better name they called them Hybrids. The name was appropriate for that particular point in time but what was a tiny sector of the market has moved on so much that the word has become meaningless. They're City bikes, Town bikes, Commuter bikes. Choice of wheel size and tyre cross-section is merely a trade off of speed over comfort. As is riding position. Trouble is, all the bike shops still call them Hybrids so maybe I'm fighting a losing battle.
> My tuppence worth anyhoo.


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## RupertKeenlyside (22 Dec 2021)

What happened to "Sit Up and Beg"? this is not a joke. I live in Deal - the completely flat bit. That's about all I can manage. I am preparing to go shopping with a basket on the front and a rucksack on my back. but only when I have sorted tyre pressures....and getting my very basic rear-view mirror to stay at the right (at any!) angle.
As a confirmed motorist since August 1961, , and a very amateur biker in the 1960s - I trial rode a Vincent for twenty minutes, suggesting that I might buy it, but no use in London and heavy as an elephant.....- I can see both or all sides of the tensions between two wheels of several types, four wheels and even pedestrians. Oh, and the increasingly prevalent and sophisticated invalid trolleys - quiet as an unmodified leccy car and even more self-righteous...


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## RupertKeenlyside (22 Dec 2021)

RupertKeenlyside said:


> What happened to "Sit Up and Beg"? this is not a joke. I live in Deal - the completely flat bit. That's about all I can manage. I am preparing to go shopping with a basket on the front and a rucksack on my back. but only when I have sorted tyre pressures....and getting my very basic rear-view mirror to stay at the right (at any!) angle.
> As a confirmed motorist since August 1961, , and a very amateur biker in the 1960s - I trial rode a Vincent for twenty minutes, suggesting that I might buy it, but no use in London and heavy as an elephant.....- I can see both or all sides of the tensions between two wheels of several types, four wheels and even pedestrians. Oh, and the increasingly prevalent and sophisticated invalid trolleys - quiet as an unmodified leccy car and even more self-righteous...


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## RupertKeenlyside (22 Dec 2021)

PS How do you log out?


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## RupertKeenlyside (22 Dec 2021)

Just filling my quota of five to help Shaun!
good night
Rupert


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## jimy76 (Yesterday at 06:58)

Thanks all seniors for sharing the information, i am new here and found this community really helpful


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## ultraviolet (Yesterday at 17:41)

Excellent


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