# converting an '80s racer to single speed



## Scilly Suffolk (21 Oct 2011)

I've just won a Peugeot Carmargue (the racer, not the shopper) on Ebay and intend to convert it to a bullet-proof, Winter hack.

1) I do the majority of my riding at 52 x 20/18: what do you suggest I gear the SS at.

2) Can I convert the existing wheel to SS with spacers or is a specific SS wheel the best option (if so, budget suggestions please).

3) My commute is usually around ten miles and I have an early start and a late finish, so will be riding in the dark; I was thinking that bull-horn bars might be a good idea as these will make me more visible amongst the traffic: any advice re. cutting down drops/buying new bars and what are my brake lever options.

4) Anything else I haven't considered.

Thanks in advance of your time and trouble.


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## YahudaMoon (22 Oct 2011)

Hi Jimmy. I don't understand why you would want to change it into a single speed. If you want a single speed then dont change gear. 



Or do you mean a fixed gear ?


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## Dan_h (22 Oct 2011)

> Hi Jimmy. I don't understand why you would want to change it into a single speed. If you want a single speed then dont change gear.




Well, from the sounds of it because not having all the gubbins associated with gears will make it more reliable. I think this is a good point in favour of converting to singlespeed. My own bike is now a singlespeed due to 100 - 150 miles per week on sketchy roads meaning that I went through the (reasonably cheap) mechs / cogs etc at some pace and just popped whatever I had on there to keep it running.


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## Dan_h (22 Oct 2011)

> 1) I do the majority of my riding at 52 x 20/18: what do you suggest I gear the SS at.
> 
> 2) Can I convert the existing wheel to SS with spacers or is a specific SS wheel the best option (if so, budget suggestions please).
> 
> ...




1) Mine is geared at 46x18 which gives me all the climbing I need. it does spin out quite easily though then again i can spin fast enough to give me 37 - 38 kph on the flat. 48x18 seems to be the stock "try this" gear supplied with a lot of bikes. It gives 72" so between 52x20 (70.2") and 52x18 (78").


2) You can probably convert the existing wheel. If it is a cassette hub on it then it is easy, just pop on a single cog and some spacers.. If you have a screw on freewheel then you will need to replace it with a single speed freewheel, respace it to give you the right chainline then take the wheel to your LBS to get it re-dished to put the rim back in the middle.


3) Never used bullhorn bars, so I don't really know. A friend has cut down drops and he just turned his brake levers upside down, dont know if this is a good idea though.


4) Depending on the dropouts on your bike you may need a chain tensioner!


Hope that helps,


Dan.


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

Thanks for getting back to me.

Yes, as Dan guessed, I want to convert it to SS for ease of maintenance/reliability throughout the Winter. For the next six weeks I have to cycle out to get a lift, so the bike will get chucked in the back of a van.

I'm pretty sure it has Simplex derailleurs which, model dependent, don't have the best reputation: I can't be throwing a derailleur in the spokes at 6:30am.

It'll also be used for going shopping and nipping around town, so I want a bike I can just jump on and ride: no SPD, no Lycra etc.

Depending on the funds available I might get a flip-flop hub, but I think a fixie will take a little getting used to and I don't have the opportunity at the moment.

Thanks for the advice on gearing and rear wheel conversion: I pick the bike up on Sunday and need it for Tuesday...


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## derrick (22 Oct 2011)

Why not remove derailier, shorten chain and try differant cogs till you find the one thats right for you, no need to remove the cassete.


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## YahudaMoon (22 Oct 2011)

Oh. Id just lock out the rear mech then. Its not going to wear out any more than a SS unless you change it to track spec chain 1/8. This will just cost money though

As the majority of your riding is 52 x 20/18 Id go for 52 x 18 though for me I prefer a change every now and again for more spin. More reason to keep them gears unless your going fixed. I think its a pointless exercise otherwise.


As for your bull horns I only ride drops and I can't see how its going to make you more visable ? If your on the tops of either bars it the same position aint it ? Unlless your strectched out on the bull bar or on the bottom f the drops. Also I dont think it will make any difference in making you more visable anyway ?


Id spend the money on quality tyres and just getting the bike working. New chain maybe ? Brake blocks or whatever it needs. Sometimes also what sounds like a easy cheap conversion can end up costing ££££.


Some things are best left though I don't know anything about the bike


That just my opinion though 


Good luck with it whatever you choose


John


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

Good idea Derrick, at least in the short-term, thanks.


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## YahudaMoon (22 Oct 2011)

derrick said:


> Why not remove derailier, shorten chain and try differant cogs till you find the one thats right for you, no need to remove the cassete.



If you remove the de-railer the chain will just drop of the block or sprocket. It has to be single speed specific cog or fixed cog ?


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## Manonabike (22 Oct 2011)

Dan_h said:


> 1) Mine is geared at 46x18 which gives me all the climbing I need. it does spin out quite easily though then again i can spin fast enough to give me 37 - 38 kph on the flat. 48x18 seems to be the stock "try this" gear supplied with a lot of bikes. It gives 72" so between 52x20 (70.2") and 52x18 (78").
> 
> 
> 2) You can probably convert the existing wheel. If it is a cassette hub on it then it is easy, just *pop on a single cog and some spacers..* If you have a screw on freewheel then you will need to replace it with a single speed freewheel, respace it to give you the right chainline then take the wheel to your LBS to get it re-dished to put the rim back in the middle.



The length of the BB will determine the chain line so I'd suggest you get a few narrow spacers rather than 2 wide ones and you will have no problem in achieving a perfect chain line. Sheldom Brown has a good article on that.





> 3) Never used bullhorn bars, so I don't really know. A friend has cut down drops and he just turned his brake levers upside down, dont know if this is a good idea though.



I love them on my SS. I bought the Charge Slice and Cane Creek TT200 brake leavers - excellent hand comfort


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

YM: the more I think about it, the more you're making sense.

I want a simple reliable "Winter hack", so no gears makes sense. I've also read that a lot of riders switch to a fixie for the Winter as they are good for improving bike control and cadence, but I am (to be quite honest) a little scared of riding a direct drive bike in traffic.

Converting an old racer to SS seemed, at first, to be a good compromise; however, as is often the case with compromises, it might be I'm getting the worst of both worlds rather than the best.

Certainly bull horns seem a pointless waste of a pair of drops: I was thinking a more upright position would make me more visible, obviously riding the tops will have the same effect (getting a little carried a way with "fixie fashion" perhaps).

This needs more thought...


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

Thanks MOAB, I like Charge a lot and if I do go for bullhorns I'll give your suggestions a look.


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## YahudaMoon (22 Oct 2011)

Hi Jimmy. I do'nt know what you paid for the bike though Im guessing about £80 ? By the time you finish getting the bike converted it could maybe end up a £150 bike ? I don't know ?

Plenty of fixed gear old bike out there for £80 like this one that I nearly got 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190585108...AX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2439wt_931

Maybe you could sell the bike and just get another like the one above ?

Just a thought 

John


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

Thanks John, I paid just under £60 .

I'm coming around to thinking that buying a "proper" fixie/SS is the way forward, or at least one that someone else has converted.

I should know this really having looked into converting a hybrid to drop bars some time ago.

I'll hang on to the Pug, in the short term at least: it already has mudguards and with some 25mm tyres and a service it should do me for the Winter.

It will also give me the opportunity to take the Ian May off the road for a respray and to fit all that lovely Gipiemme and Ofmega kit I've been slowly and cheaply picking-up.

Thanks to everyone who's chipped-in, this has been a most useful exercise: chapeau!


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## Fab Foodie (22 Oct 2011)

YahudaMoon said:


> If you remove the de-railer the chain will just drop of the block or sprocket. It has to be single speed specific cog or fixed cog ?



NO.

Ok Jimmy, I did this 25 years ago, it's pretty simple.

Firstly, you can do as suggested upthread, remove all the gubbins and just shorten the chain to fit the cog you want to experiment with. Nothing more needed.

If you want it tidying-up then remove the freewheel and replaced with the single sprocket of choice. The caveat here is that in fitting a new rear single sprocket you may need a new chain and chainring as well.
When I did this I used the inner 42T ring and moved it to the outside of the chainset and combined it with a 15T rear because that was my preferred riding combination when I used gears. My only difference is that I went fioxed rather than single. Keep both brakes btw to be legal (and safe).

Simples.

There are many advantages to s/s and fixed, simple, quieter less cleaning and maintainance, less cost, much, much longer chain-life and you develop better technique and flexibility.
Don't go for bull-horns, just raise the drops if possible if you feel you need it.


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

Thanks FF.

That sounds as simple, and cheap, as I originally thought it would be.

I'll sleep on it and hope that Mercx comes to me in a dream and shows me the way...


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## Dan_h (22 Oct 2011)

> Oh. Id just lock out the rear mech then. Its not going to wear out any more than a SS unless you change it to track spec chain 1/8. This will just cost money though



That is what I have done at the moment, just locked the rear mech under my chosen gear (which fortunately gives an almost dead straight chainline!) using the H Stop screw and removed all the shifters, cables etc. Seems to work fine and then costs nothing to try out the singlespeed thing.


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## Manonabike (22 Oct 2011)

Jimmy The Whiskers said:


> Certainly bull horns seem a pointless waste of a pair of drops: I was thinking a more upright position would make me more visible, obviously riding the tops will have the same effect (getting a little carried a way with "fixie fashion" perhaps).
> 
> This needs more thought...



Comfort wise Bull horns > riding the tops..... you really need to experience a set of bull horns to understand the point. A year ago I felt bull horns were pointless .... not anymore. I didn't want to make my own bull horns out of my drop bars so the Charge was a good choice for me.

About keeping cassette, derailleurs, gear shifters, etc I think that is fine while you are finding your range but the idea of a SS for me was to easy its maintenance and a lighter bike which I achieved at about 9.5 kgs and using a steel frame.
This is the bike I keep indoor to have easy access to.... need to pop to the bank/shops/etc? No problem!!! Just put my D-lock in my back pocket, mount the bike and off I go. On a nice day I always find the longest way home  - I love riding my SS and the best thing is that most of my rides on this bike have actually replaced the car.... 748 miles since February.


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## Scilly Suffolk (22 Oct 2011)

Your comments on bullhorns noted MOAB.

What you say about maintenance and ease of use is exactly what drew me to a SS.

I'm beginning to think that first off I'll lock the gears; once I'm happy with my choice I'll junk the derailleurs and shorten the chain; ultimately I'll get a flip-flop hub, specific chain set and probably bullhorns.

Right, I've made my mind up now... unless I bag something on Ebay...


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## biggs682 (22 Oct 2011)

jimmy , you are donig the same as i already have done 5 times now and it is much easier on a shortish commute on a known route to use a single speed ( not tried fixed ) , 3 of the ones i have converted have been old Peugoets where i have lbs re dish the rear wheel and fit a single speed freewheel normally 15 t and then just use outer chainring as they are mostly 48's or 52's .

the other 2 have been more modern frame and have used spacer kits on a freehub to get chain line and a bolt on tensioner as no adjustment on vertical dropouts . 

i have a couple of donor frames lined up in garage for the nest conversions one of them will be done with a flip flop so i can try fixed riding .

so far none of them have cost more than £120 including donor bike , just finished doing a Dawes giro 200 cost so far £105 and i have taken off a nice pr of sti 7 speed levers that should recoup some money along with both deraileurs .

so best of luck and enjoy it


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## derrick (22 Oct 2011)

YahudaMoon said:


> If you remove the de-railer the chain will just drop of the block or sprocket. It has to be single speed specific cog or fixed cog ?



No it won't.


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## goody (22 Oct 2011)

Once you remove the shifters, cables, derailleurs, 5-6-7 or whatever freewheel and set it up SS you'll be surprised how much lighter the bike is. It's not that difficult to do yourself if you have the tools to remove the freewheel and don't mind having a go at re-dishing the rear wheel. When deciding on gearing just remember to allow for days when you might not feel 100% and are riding into headwinds. I loved my SS but the rims wore out so I put in some wheels from an old shopping bike which had a three speed SA hub. Good Luck with it.


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## Dan_h (22 Oct 2011)

Just out of curiosity how hard is it to re-dish the rear wheel? It is only about £20 to get the LBS to do it so is it something worth trying? I only ask because I do like doing as much of the work on my bikes as possible myself, but something about working on wheels always seems a bit mystical to me!


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## biggs682 (23 Oct 2011)

i asked same question at lbs and got the its a mysterious art and dont mess about look that the olde boys gives, then went on to explain why it needs doing ie keep tyre in centre of frame and move hub across to aid chain line have done 1 bike by just messing with washers at lock nuts but tyre ended up slightly over to 1 side , couldnt tell any differance and bike still going strong


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## 4F (26 Oct 2011)

Jimmy, if you want to try out fixed give us a shout as you can have a go on mine and see how you get on. It is currently set up with a 48 x 16/17 fixed / fixed rear hub which is fine for our flat local area. Tony


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## Old Plodder (30 Oct 2011)

25 years ago!

Yes, then it may have worked, I did it in the 70's, but now it hardly ever does.

Nowadays cassette sprockets have twisted teeth, ramps, & some are half height,
& are designed to throw the chain off the sprocket, to ease gear shifting.

However, a Sturmey or Sachs hub gear sprocket with spacers is the way to go.

The spigots need a bit of filing so they will slide onto the cassette body, keep an old
rear mech as a tensioner, & plastic pipe (plumbing off cut) cut to size for the spacers.
Plastic is good enough, as they are only there for alignment purposes, & refit the lock ring.

Cut offs/ bull horns actually raise you up, because your reach is slightly shorter when using 
the inside of the drop, allowing that you use the same extension.


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