# Miracle RD525 - Build



## BRounsley (21 Mar 2018)

I built a bike!..and when I say “built” I mean assembled. It’s the first time I’d ever done one…so if anyone notices something unsafe, let me know!!!

The reason for the post is to talk about the frame as when I ordered it, real-life information was thin on the ground. So hopefully someone will find this useful. 

The vision:
I wanted an unbranded carbon frame, in black. It had to have disc brakes. I also wanted electronic gears. I was aiming for an uncluttered stealth look. I’m sure watching the TV show Street Hawk has a part to play. After looking at a lot of Chinese frames I kept coming back to Miracle, so I bought it. 

The frame:
So it’s a Miracle RD525. I specified it with a BSA bottom bracket standard. I wanted it matt black and went UD carbon. You can see some of the carbon construction. This is neat-ish but not perfect. Maybe if I did it again I’d get it sprayed matt black.

Things I’ve learnt about my frame:

Headset/Fork – I believe the fork has an integrated crown race. If it doesn’t I have no idea how to make one fit. The shipped headset didn’t have one, so I bought a headset with a crown race, and that doesn’t fit. The headset is an internal Taper 1-1/8” to 1-1/2”

Thru axel – My frame is the “E-Thru” standard - 12mm X 100mm front and 12mm x 142mm back. I now know they’re 3 main standards X12/ E-thru/Maxle. Being E-Thru and 12 mm the thread pitch is M12 x1.5. The Thru axels that I bought with the frame are trud, so I’ve since bought some better ones.

Frame ports/bungs - The frame shipped with extra rubber bungs for a Di2 setup. This included a blanking bung (1 Di2 wire vs 2 cables) and other bungs as Di2 wires are thinner than cables. 

Seatpost – I had to cut the seatpost down…it was super long. The internal clamp is very effective. If anything too effective, as I really struggle to remove the post after it’s been clamped.

Di2 Battery – I fitted the Di2 Battery into the aero seat post by sticking it inside a bit of old inner tube and forcing it into the seat post. Worked a treat 

Bottom Bracket –I went BSA. I fitted a Shimano BB and it was super straightforward and easy. I’d never fitted a bottom bracket before. 

Frame cost:-
£391.77 frame+fork+seat post+clamp
£36 Delivery
£44 Customs charge (didn’t see that coming)

Riding the bike. It feels like my other carbon framed bike (Moda Stretto). Maybe a bit more comfortable, but this bike also has bigger volume tyres. It doesn’t seem to overly flex, or it flexes in the right way. I like the ride.

The rest of the built:
It’s a 6870 Ultegra Di2 groupset. As it was the cheapest electronic groupset I could find. 
HUNT 4Season Gravel Disc Road/CX Wheels. I wanted a high spoke count, 28, as I’m a serial spoke snapper. Going alu over carbon rims was a budget consideration. I’ve also went tubeless. I like the wheels. 
The built bike is just less than 8.5kg (including pedals, empty saddle bag, and bottle cages) and is a size 58.
I bought some extra Di2 stuff (the bar end junction box A, the Bluetooth dongle, and the Y wire) and that added nearly £200 to the built. £60 for a wire, shame on you Shimano!!! The Di2/groupset was over half of the cost, therefore going 105 and cable would be a massive cost reduction. 

Build issues and mishaps.
I had no built issue with the frame other than the lack of information (integrated crown race and Thru axel standard). 
I did mess-up (literally) the rear brake hose and contaminated the rear disc/pads. The dishwasher and sanding came to the rescue. 
A few times through the built the Di2 went dead. One time as I left the Bluetooth on (talking to my phone), overnight and it drained the battery. But mainly because I dislodged a connector while tinkering. 
The internal routing in the handlebars was fiddly. But with the bar end junction box, wires and brake hoses, there was a lot to fit in.

My total spend was £2,655.22 (reusing my saddle and pedals)…I let you decide if you think that’s good or bad. Cost Breakdown::
79.3 Handlebar
391.77 frame+fork+seat post+clamp
36 Frame Delivery
44 Customs
369 Wheels
99 Tyres
9.99 Wheels Axle Adapter
32 Thru Axle
4.99 spacers
19.13 bottle cage
119.68 disc rotors
1249.99 Groupset 
84.39 bar end junction
59.99 di2 Y cable
55.99 di2 com/Bluetooth box
I also spent another £80 buying tools (I already had some, cassette tool, torque wrench etc).


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## Sharky (21 Mar 2018)

Think you need to fill the bottles with *Black* Current juice, but the bike looks great.
Well done


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## Rooster1 (21 Mar 2018)

thats a bit special.

Frames...
http://www.miraclebikes.com/product...iscroadbikescarbonframe2017bestroadd20043103/


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## BRounsley (17 Apr 2018)

Sharky said:


> Think you need to fill the bottles with *Black* Current juice, but the bike looks great.
> Well done



it's recently been in Ireland so maybe Guinness would be better!


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## BRounsley (17 Apr 2018)

Rooster1 said:


> thats a bit special.
> 
> Frames...
> http://www.miraclebikes.com/product...iscroadbikescarbonframe2017bestroadd20043103/



That’s the one. I bought it via aliexpress.com

There’ve since stuck a few more pictures up on the advert

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Chr...84947731.html?spm=2114.search0306.4.85.mWMxzF

These are the handle bars


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LUR...243144e&transAbTest=ae803_1&priceBeautifyAB=0


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## BRounsley (17 Apr 2018)

Update, After living with and riding the bike a few months here’s what I’ve learnt.

Rear Dropouts - The rear dropouts are a pieces of metal bolted to the carbon frame. The dropouts had become lose and I had some play in the back wheel. It’s only happened once, maybe they were never tight when I got the bike…or maybe this will keep happen. It was very easy to fix, you just tighten the dropout bolts up. The bolts are 2.5mm allen head…something I didn’t have on my multitool when I discovered this in the middle of nowhere!!

Seatpost Clamp – Maybe I’m a bit slow and other people would have worked this out quicker than me, but as stated in the original post I had really struggle to adjust the seat post…it was taking the strength of two men to move it, unsurprisingly this turned out to be “user error”!….. The clamp is 2 pieces of triangular metal connected with a bolt…as you tight the bolt the triangles slide apart wedging the post….I was INCORECTLY removing the bolt, thinking I was loosening the clamp….To adjust the seat post, unscrew the bolt (but not fully) so some of the bolt stands proud…then push the bold down…this also pushed the bottom triangular section away from the seatpost….you can now adjust the post with one hand (without the need of a second person!!).


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## Padawan38 (5 Jun 2018)

Hello,

Happy to see someone else bought this bike, I thought I was the only customer.
Mine is under construction and will be dedicated to commuting, so I'll go with flat bar instead of drop.

I'll go with kind of aero wheels as well, because my environment is quite flat, and I admit, for the sexy looking as well.

Are you still happy with yours ?

Thx
P


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## BRounsley (16 Apr 2020)

I thought I’d give a bit of an update as I’ve had the bike a few years now. Strava tell me it’s done 2,300 miles which is not huge miles but a fair few. I’ve had no issues with the frame.

The only thing worth pointing out is the lack of setback on the seat post. I can’t swap it, so my solution is pushing the saddle back really far (beyond the max markers) and changed my position a bit. It looks like their new frame designs have more setback.
I’ve had not issue with any of the components other than a few DI2 battery drain issue. 

I did change the wheels. I had no issues with the Hunts I just wanted deeper rims. These are 60mm Far sports (DT 350 hubs + high spoke count). 500+ miles and no issues with them. 

I’ve also made (3d printed) a TT style draft box to keep my stuff in. I’m sure it adds drag and it does add weight but it “looks aero”!


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