# Let's have your hacks, tips and money saving ideas for beginners.



## Cycleops (21 Sep 2017)

I'm sure most of us are already aware of most of these but I thought many beginners might not be. Here are a couple:





If you want a chai stay protector there are plenty for sale but you can make a great alternative yourself by using an old inner tube. Make a paper template and use it to cut the item. Secure with contact adhesive. You might have a shaped chainstay as I did where it's especially useful. Cost is zero. You could also wrap the stay in a strip of tubes if you wish.
There are many other uses for old inner tubes like ties for luggage or whatever, I'm sure others will make suggestions.

If you haven't got a pair of needle nose pliers separating a chain with a quick link can be a pain. An effective alternative is to use a length of wire or even a shoe lace to pull the ends and break the link.




A chain holding tool can be simply made from a length of old wire coat hanger. Useful for when you need to join or measure the chain.


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## Heigue'r (21 Sep 2017)

Like the chain holding tool


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## MichaelW2 (21 Sep 2017)

If you have to lean your bike against a rough surface such as a galvanized sheffield stand, apply some duct tape or reflective stickers to the points of contact, ie top tube and upper part of forks.
Always rest your bike chain inwards so you dont brush your clothes agsinst oily transmission.


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## Jason (21 Sep 2017)

A plastic bag makes for a great saddle cover when the weather is wet. Saves having a wet bum , and can be tucked into the roof of your helmet to keep hair dry.


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## GuyBoden (21 Sep 2017)

MichaelW2 said:


> Always rest your bike chain inwards so you don't brush your clothes against oily transmission.



And, if it falls over the rear gears won't get damaged...


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## GuyBoden (21 Sep 2017)

Cut the brake and gear outer cables with a spare piece of inner cable inside, so you don't squash the outer cable. Use a decent pair of sharp cable cutters too...


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## Venod (21 Sep 2017)

If your helmets too big use a panty liner inside the rim to make it a snug fit, but don't use the one's with wings or you will look like Deputy Dog.


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## ianrauk (21 Sep 2017)

GuyBoden said:


> Cut the brake and gear outer cables with a spare piece of inner cable inside, so you don't squash the outer cable. Use a decent pair of sharp cable cutters too...




And don't cut the cables to length until you have threaded them.


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## MossCommuter (21 Sep 2017)

GuyBoden said:


> Cut the brake and gear outer cables with a spare piece of inner cable inside, so you don't squash the outer cable. Use a decent pair of sharp cable cutters too...


Genius!!


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## Nibor (21 Sep 2017)

MossCommuter said:


> Genius!!


I have a dart in my tool box to clean up the end after the cut.


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## MichaelW2 (21 Sep 2017)

GuyBoden said:


> Cut the brake and gear outer cables with a spare piece of inner cable inside, so you don't squash the outer cable. Use a decent pair of sharp cable cutters too...


I use a dremel cutting disc on cables.


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## youngoldbloke (21 Sep 2017)

A disposable shower cap makes an effective helmet rain cover.


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## MacB (21 Sep 2017)

Best advice is watch instructional videos on youtube and avoid cycling forums. Though you'll get great advice you'll soon be doubting yourself. For starters you bought an expensive, to you, bike which turns out to be at the bargain basement end for forums. Then you'll read lots and look at shiny pictures and a lust will grow within you. It'll start small, better brake pads, maybe some extra light weight carbon bottle holders and, of course, a wheelset upgrade. But then the wheels are too good for the bike and it snowballs from there. Don't think you're safe if you're not into shiny bling and super speed, there's plenty of Brooks/Carradice/Rack goodness out there to open your wallet.

If you're new here, run, run now!!!!


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## youngoldbloke (21 Sep 2017)

Sandwich bags over your socks help keep your feet warm (and dry).


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## youngoldbloke (21 Sep 2017)

Clean your (rim) brake pads using an emery board, and a toothpick for the grooves, as soon as your brakes sound scratchy, and save wear on your rims..


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## PaulSB (21 Sep 2017)

Get your chain, cassette and rings thoroughly clean - really, really clean. Use a minimum of lube. After every ride wipe all the muck off the chain. This will help keep the whole drive side clean and running smoothly. Search on here for "The Mickle Method" probably the best tip I've picked up on here.

Dust your spare tubes in talc and wrap in cling film or place in plastic bag. When you come to change a tube at the roadside it will be easy to handle, the tyre will roll on easily and you're hands will stay clean.

Clean your rims with white spirit after a ride.


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## Wobblers (27 Sep 2017)

MacB said:


> Best advice is watch instructional videos on youtube and avoid cycling forums. Though you'll get great advice you'll soon be doubting yourself. For starters you bought an expensive, to you, bike which turns out to be at the bargain basement end for forums. Then you'll read lots and look at shiny pictures and a lust will grow within you. It'll start small, better brake pads, maybe some extra light weight carbon bottle holders and, of course, a wheelset upgrade. But then the wheels are too good for the bike and it snowballs from there. Don't think you're safe if you're not into shiny bling and super speed, there's plenty of Brooks/Carradice/Rack goodness out there to open your wallet.
> 
> If you're new here, run, run now!!!!



Yes! And if you get carried away you can end up spending all your time speccing up and building bikes but never riding them.... eh, MacB?


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## Tin Pot (27 Sep 2017)

youngoldbloke said:


> Sandwich bags over your socks help keep your feet warm (and dry).



Foil around the toes in winter.


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## Ming the Merciless (27 Sep 2017)

Cold wet hands. Go to a service station toilets. Use the hand dryer to warm your hands and dry gloves. Grab some plastic diesel handling gloves from between the pumps and put them on under your gloves to get home with drier warmer hands.


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## ADarkDraconis (20 Jan 2018)

Don't know if we are still able to add to this thread, but always keep your wallet and phone in a ziploc baggie. That way, if there is a sudden downpour and your pockets or bag get soaked, your cash and ID cards are nice and dry, and no shorting out on your phone! This works well for hiking and especially kayaking, too!


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## LeetleGreyCells (20 Jan 2018)

Always carry a bunch of cable ties with you when out on the bike. They will fix a multitude of roadside problems. 

If using a bike rack that’s mounted to the boot lid, get some foam pipe covering (or whatever it’s called) from a plumber’s merchants and put on the rack to stop frame rub.


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## youngoldbloke (20 Jan 2018)

YukonBoy said:


> Cold wet hands. Go to a service station toilets. Use the hand dryer to warm your hands and dry gloves. Grab some plastic diesel handling gloves from between the pumps and put them on under your gloves to get home with drier warmer hands.


Wearing disposable plastic gloves under your regular gloves will help keep your hands warm as well as dry - but put them on before you leave home!


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## Elysian_Roads (20 Jan 2018)

youngoldbloke said:


> Wearing disposable plastic gloves under your regular gloves will help keep your hands warm as well as dry - but put them on before you leave home!


I always keep some disposable plastic gloves in the saddle pack for roadside repairs, helps keep my hands and the rest of the bike clean.


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## ozboz (20 Jan 2018)

youngoldbloke said:


> Wearing disposable plastic gloves under your regular gloves will help keep your hands warm as well as dry - but put them on before you leave home!



I've tried a few ways to keep hands warm , it the one part of winter riding I could do without , 
I'll give this a try ! 
NB Just wondering if the latex disposable gloves would do the same ?


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## cyberknight (20 Jan 2018)

ozboz said:


> I've tried a few ways to keep hands warm , it the one part of winter riding I could do without ,
> I'll give this a try !
> NB Just wondering if the latex disposable gloves would do the same ?


made my hands sweat as it kept the moisture in


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## bpsmith (20 Jan 2018)

+1 the above. Using them in the garage for any length of time results in sweaty hands. Just buy quality gloves.


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## youngoldbloke (20 Jan 2018)

cyberknight said:


> made my hands sweat as it kept the moisture in


I'd rather have moist warm hands than wet cold ones. They work for me anyway.


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## ADarkDraconis (20 Jan 2018)

Wheel guy at the LBS yesterday told me that Gorilla tape makes great rim tape! They use it for a lot, but I never thought of that.


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## Cycleops (20 Jan 2018)

Keep ‘em coming guys, I’m sure there are loads more.


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## cyberknight (20 Jan 2018)

youngoldbloke said:


> I'd rather have moist warm hands than wet cold ones. They work for me anyway.


Poggies ftw


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## PeteXXX (21 Jan 2018)

Don’t dump all of those plastic food containers straight into the recycling bin. 
Save a few to keep the nuts and bolts in when you take summat apart. 
Also useful if you have to soak any parts in degreaser.


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## biggs682 (22 Jan 2018)

cyberknight said:


> made my hands sweat as it kept the moisture in



Same here


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## Cycleops (22 Jan 2018)

Calling @raleighnut !


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## raleighnut (22 Jan 2018)

Cycleops said:


> Calling @raleighnut !
> 
> View attachment 392660


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## MontyVeda (22 Jan 2018)

Cycleops said:


> Keep ‘em coming guys, I’m sure there are loads more.


Don't waste money on driving lessons, cars, tax, fuel, parts or repairs and buy a bike instead. If you ever need a car, contact someone who already owns one... there's plenty about.


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## ADarkDraconis (27 Jan 2018)

Went for a long ride along the trails today and the bike got caked in mud. Our hose is unhooked for the winter so it won't freeze, so I filled up the watering can with warm water from inside the house and gave her a good washing (an old rag for the worst of it and then just sprinkled the watering can gently over the grime.) The little streams from the rosette were better than using a bucket.


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## ChrisEyles (9 Mar 2018)

One of the best ways to learn to maintain everything on your bike(s) is to buy the cheapest clunker you can find on ebay/gumtree, strip it right down, and rebuild it. You will learn loads and won't stress too much about messing things up... Errr in all conscience I should probably warn that it can get addictive though!


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## gazza_d (10 Mar 2018)

Old inner tubes can be useful things. Use strips under velcro straps etc to protect paintwork.

They can also be used to make covers for bar ends. http://cyclingsouthtyne.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/bike-hack-repurpose-inner-tubes-as-bar.html?m=1


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## DCBassman (10 Mar 2018)

ozboz said:


> I've tried a few ways to keep hands warm , it the one part of winter riding I could do without



I've two pairs of gloves I've used in the cold. Newer set bought by my son, neoprene-like with metallic tip for phone screens. Warm hands, but very sweaty.
Other set is an old set of cheap skiing gloves. Not so good in the wet, otherwise much better than the 'real' ones.


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## Reynard (17 Mar 2018)

Don't go out and buy a full set of cycling clothing from the get-go - buy according to need. It's easiest to start out with clothes you may well have to hand: football shirt / running shirt, fleece, jogging bottoms, basic waterproof cagoule, lightweight walking shoes etc and build from there.

A lot of (cheaper) non-cycling sportswear can be incorporated into your everyday kit - running and football stuff for instance makes for good (wicking) base layers, while skiing thermals make nice mid layers when it's cold.


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## greenmark (17 Mar 2018)

GuyBoden said:


> Cut the brake and gear outer cables with a spare piece of inner cable inside, so you don't squash the outer cable. Use a decent pair of sharp cable cutters too...



Just did that - thanks for the advice to cut cables. Not sure how it helps so I'm off outside to see if riding with them cut is any better.


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## alicat (17 Mar 2018)

> A lot of (cheaper) non-cycling sportswear can be incorporated into your everyday kit - running and football stuff for instance makes for good (wicking) base layers, while skiing thermals make nice mid layers when it's cold.



Yep, that's so right. A jersey with pockets in the back is all you need to start off with.


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## Ming the Merciless (17 Mar 2018)

Do not buy cycling gear for winter. Get mountaineering gear, far more effective and cheaper.


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## Abody.EGY (17 Mar 2018)

*Long shoehorn* can be very useful to keep dogs away while bikepacking, Specially in Asia.


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## ADarkDraconis (17 Mar 2018)

alicat said:


> Yep, that's so right. A jersey with pockets in the back is all you need to start off with.


Or a regular jacket with pockets, or any type of clothes with a backpack/saddlebag/fanny pack. Not everyone needs or wants jerseys, many people cycle in everyday clothing.


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## Spinney (17 Mar 2018)

Abody.EGY said:


> *Long shoehorn* can be very useful to keep dogs away while bikepacking, Specially in Asia.


Is that half a melon or something on the front?


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## Howyadoinoutthere (17 Mar 2018)

If your hands are greasy clean them by rubbing butter on the grease, rinse hands, then use washing up liquid to remove the butter.


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## alicat (17 Mar 2018)

Not tried that.

If you mean greasy as in oily, then an alternative is coffee grounds rubbed in with hand wash; it makes a cheap substitute for swarfega.


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## roadrash (17 Mar 2018)

alicat said:


> Not tried that.
> 
> If you mean greasy as in oily, then an alternative is coffee grounds rubbed in with hand wash; it makes a cheap substitute for swarfega.



or sugar


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## Abody.EGY (17 Mar 2018)

Spinney said:


> Is that half a melon or something on the front?



It's a delicious and sweet piece of Coconut haha


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## Always Cross (17 Mar 2018)

Just done a 46 mile ride I wore ski mittens my hands were very toasty. Buff on the head under a plastic hat. The only thing that got cold was my feet I had booties on but I ride recumbent so my feet stick out in front. Any ideas for warm feet?


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## Reynard (17 Mar 2018)

ADarkDraconis said:


> Or a regular jacket with pockets, or any type of clothes with a backpack/saddlebag/fanny pack. Not everyone needs or wants jerseys, many people cycle in everyday clothing.



Yeah, true. Most of my cycling is recreational, so I lycra up, but if I'm commuting / going shopping, then it's ordinary clothing. However, if cycling in ordinary clothing, it's still best to ensure you're wearing a wicking base layer of some kind.

Because there is nothing more uncomfortable than having to spent a day in a sweaty, icky t-shirt that gets cold as soon as you stop riding. 

Been there, done that, will never do it again.


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## Reynard (17 Mar 2018)

Always Cross said:


> Just done a 46 mile ride I wore ski mittens my hands were very toasty. Buff on the head under a plastic hat. The only thing that got cold was my feet I had booties on but I ride recumbent so my feet stick out in front. Any ideas for warm feet?



Lidl's "Feet Heater" clone socks. IIRC they're £3 for two pairs of the kiddies sizes (I'm lucky, can buy them as I have small feet) or £4 for two pairs the adult sizes. Teamed up with a lightweight cotton or silk sock underneath and they're just the ticket.


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## froze (18 Mar 2018)

don't buy expensive jerseys they don't feel any different then cheap $20 ones, the same is true with socks; but don't apply that logic with cycling shorts or you could be paying for with butt pain.

Of course always try to buy stuff on closeout sales at the end of the year, you can save a lot of money, I never pay more than $30 for a tire yet I routinely get tires that normally sold for $50 and up; so shop late in the year for stuff you think you might need next year. I'm always looking for sales for stuff I need and I usually end up saving at least 45% from regular prices.

Another cost saving tip, there is no need to replace your cables every season like most bike shops will try to get you to do or even people I've read on the forums try to proclaim, my cables all last at least 8 years before needing replacing, and on my main bike that's about 4,000 miles a year and those cables are still good after 4 years with about 16,000 miles on them. Also there is no reason to change your rear gear cluster everytime you replace your chain, the rear gear cluster should last 3 times longer than the chain, so on the third chain replacement that's when the gear cluster should be seriously looked at. 

Another cost saving tip...maintain, maintain, maintain and clean, clean, clean your bike. You need to make sure that you are keeping your chains cleaned and lubed, do that and your chains will last a lot longer, wipe down your chain after every ride clean and relube after about 250 miles unless exposed to rain then clean and relube immediately after the ride. Keep the sprockets and gears clean as well, clean the dirt off the derailleurs and put a drop of lube on the pivots of the derailleurs. A tough duty sponge with water and Dawn for dishes (not the lemon, the acid in the citrus could damage bike parts) will clean your chain and sprockets quite well so you don't really need any expensive chemicals to do the job. Keeping your bike maintained and clean will keep long term repair cost low.


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## Ming the Merciless (18 Mar 2018)

Get bar end shifters and pure grake levers. Easier to maintain and more reliable. Plus much cheaper.


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## PaulSB (19 Mar 2018)

Very much agree with the advice from @froze regarding cleaning. A clean bike will always function better than a dirty one and, for me, you’ll feel good riding it.

I would add to the advice:

Get your chain and group set scrupulously clean. Really spend time on this. You’ll only need to do this occasionally.

I find an oily cloth is best for wiping down the chain. I use the same one until it’s just too filthy to handle. Seems to work better than a clean one. 

Use a garden hose or spray pump to wash dirt off the chain rings and cassette.

Always wipe down and hose immediately after your ride - once you’ve showered you won’t feel like doing it!!!!

Learn to lube correctly.. This means:

Choose a quality, non sticky lube. It will be expensive but last a long time. My last one cost £12 but that was three years ago!! Sticky lube attracts dirt. Consider two types, one for winter and one for summer.

Apply lube sparingly and always wipe off any excess

Only lube the inside surface of each roller. This means lubing the lower portion of the chain on its upper surface. Lube is only needed in the rollers and inside the roller. 

Do not lube after every ride - it just contributes to collecting more road gunk. If you lube and clean correctly lubing when the chain looks/feels dry is all that’s needed. 

Search on here for the “Mickle method”


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## si_c (28 Mar 2018)

PaulSB said:


> Always wipe down and hose immediately after your ride - once you’ve showered you won’t feel like doing it!!!!


I disagree with this, clean the bike when it looks dirty. I don't touch the bike after each ride, I don't have the time given I commute to work 5 days on it. If it's a particularly wet day I'll give the chain a quick once over with a rag, but that's it. I do however clean the bike thoroughly (about half an hour - soapy water in a bucket with a sponge and a hose to wash everything off) at the weekend or on a friday. 

It would be easy to go overboard and overthink it. Just have a bit of common sense - if you've been out on the bike on a warm, dry, sunny day, chances are the bike will be in the same condition as when you get back. Commuting at 8am on a weekday in winter with salt and grit on the roads in the pissing rain however...


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## ADarkDraconis (30 Mar 2018)

I find it handy to carry a pair of needle-nosed pliers along in my little toolkit. They are useful for getting out tiny thorns or pieces of glass stuck in your tire and can even be used to bend fender braces or tighten down bolts in a pinch.


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## ColinJ (30 Mar 2018)

ADarkDraconis said:


> I find it handy to carry a pair of needle-nosed pliers along in my little toolkit. They are useful for getting out tiny thorns or pieces of glass stuck in your tire and can even be used to bend fender braces or tighten down bolts in a pinch.


I was thinking along those lines the other day when I recalled the only time that I have asked another cyclist for help when I had a puncture. I had some glass stuck in the tyre and was struggling to get it out. I might go for a lighter option though - a pair of tweezers.

The other problem that I had that day was that I didn't have my reading glasses with me so I couldn't quite focus properly. My tip would be to carry a spare pair of glasses with you if you'd need them. I have a fold-up pair in a tough case so I have just put those in my Camelbak bag and will take them on every ride in future.


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## ADarkDraconis (30 Mar 2018)

ColinJ said:


> The other problem that I had that day was that I didn't have my reading glasses with me so I couldn't quite focus properly. My tip would be to carry a spare pair of glasses with you if you'd need them. I have a fold-up pair in a tough case so I have just put those in my Camelbak bag and will take them on every ride in future.



I am fortunate/unfortunate in the fact that I have to wear my glasses all the time so I can never forget them at home. That means though that I spring for unbreakable frames (Technolite flex, they call it plastic titanium!) and sturdy lenses because if they break while I am away from home I am screwed because I cannot see well enough to drive or ride home... or do anything really.


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## Heltor Chasca (30 Mar 2018)

Spare pair of contact lenses. So easy to rub something out your eyes and you inevertinly rub your lens out.


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## youngoldbloke (30 Mar 2018)

Carry a teaspoon in the saddle pack - it's the perfect tool for removing the build up of mud on close fitting mudguards (having removed the wheel first).


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## Reynard (30 Mar 2018)

And if you're not a glasses wearer, I'd recommend a pair of clear sports specs (like the ones from Decathlon) just to keep the crap (road dirt, flies) out of your eyes.


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## PaulSB (30 Mar 2018)

si_c said:


> I disagree with this, clean the bike when it looks dirty. I don't touch the bike after each ride, I don't have the time given I commute to work 5 days on it. If it's a particularly wet day I'll give the chain a quick once over with a rag, but that's it. I do however clean the bike thoroughly (about half an hour - soapy water in a bucket with a sponge and a hose to wash everything off) at the weekend or on a friday.
> 
> It would be easy to go overboard and overthink it. Just have a bit of common sense - if you've been out on the bike on a warm, dry, sunny day, chances are the bike will be in the same condition as when you get back. Commuting at 8am on a weekday in winter with salt and grit on the roads in the pissing rain however...



Yes if this was the commuting forum I’d agree entirely. In my youth I commuted for years and more recently had a 36 mile round trip commute when health issues meant I couldn’t drive for a year. That meant leaving at 6.40am and usually returning between 7.30 and 8.30pm depending on the trains.

When I commuted one clean per week was all there was time for.

However this is the Beginners forum and I feel readers are more likely to be riding once or twice a week at most. I feel the advice is then different - more toward how to look after and maintain a bike in great condition.


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## Ming the Merciless (30 Mar 2018)

Save money on the cafe by packing a jam sandwich and find a bench on your ride with a fine view.


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## Elysian_Roads (30 Mar 2018)

Reynard said:


> And if you're not a glasses wearer, I'd recommend a pair of clear sports specs (like the ones from Decathlon) just to keep the crap (road dirt, flies) out of your eyes.


Would second that, I wear contact lenses on the bike and the Decathlon 100 clear glasses cover a fair amount of my face. They are also ridiculously cheap, which is great for the habitually clumsy.


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## simongt (30 Mar 2018)

Elysian_Roads said:


> They are also ridiculously cheap, which is great for the habitually clumsy.


Blimey, £3.99 is a VERY good price - !  I usually buy safety glasses which are about £5 for the same reasons.


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## Reynard (30 Mar 2018)

Yep, they're really good VFM. Plus they block UV light as well.

And far better than cycling with a fly in your eye...


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## ColinJ (31 Mar 2018)

Reynard said:


> And far better than cycling with a fly in your eye...


Absolutely right ...



ColinJ said:


> For those of you who don't think wearing eye protection when out cycling is necessary...
> 
> *I rode with a glasses-free mate once who got hit in the eye by a large bluebottle on a fast descent. He almost crashed and by the time I got to him, his eye looked like he'd been punched by Mike Tyson! He developed the biggest, nastiest black eye I've ever seen.*
> When I bought my first pair of cycling glasses, I went out for a ride to try them out. The council had just resurfaced the local roads and there were loose chippings everywhere, and a 20 mph speed limit in place. A moron shot drove past me at high speed firing up a a shower of chippings behind him. One stone smacked hard into the centre of the right lens, cracking it. It was directly in front of my eye!
> ...


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## PeteXXX (31 Mar 2018)

If you wear SPD or SPDL shoes, check the bolts every now and then. I once tried to help someone look for a lost bolt. 
No joy finding it, and his ride was over!
Next suggestion: carry a spare bolt. 
(And a spare chain link)


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## Ming the Merciless (31 Mar 2018)

PeteXXX said:


> If you wear SPD or SPDL shoes, check the bolts every now and then. I once tried to help someone look for a lost bolt.
> No joy finding it, and his ride was over!
> Next suggestion: carry a spare bolt.
> (And a spare chain link)



If you use counter sunk bolts for your water bottle cage they can double as cleat bolts in an emergency.


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## ColinJ (31 Mar 2018)

YukonBoy said:


> If you use counter sunk bolts for your water bottle cage they can double as cleat bolts in an emergency.


Alternatively, make sure that your cleat bolts are tightened up properly! 



Signed, a cyclist who fell over when he couldn't unclip after losing a loose cleat bolt!


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## si_c (31 Mar 2018)

YukonBoy said:


> If you use counter sunk bolts for your water bottle cage they can double as cleat bolts in an emergency.



Until they seize into the frame and you can never ever get them out again


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## Ming the Merciless (31 Mar 2018)

si_c said:


> Until they seize into the frame and you can never ever get them out again



Grease grease and grease and check as part of normal checks.


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## Nibor (2 Apr 2018)

Reynard said:


> And if you're not a glasses wearer, I'd recommend a pair of clear sports specs (like the ones from Decathlon) just to keep the crap (road dirt, flies) out of your eyes.


similar can be had from screwfix including Bolle branded ones for a tenner in cleared and smoked lenses
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-silium-clear-lens-safety-specs/89679


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## ColinJ (2 Apr 2018)

Nibor said:


> similar can be had from screwfix including Bolle branded ones for a tenner in cleared and smoked lenses
> https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolle-silium-clear-lens-safety-specs/89679


This is what I went for - 2 pairs for £4.19, including postage! 

PS That must have been a special offer - I think it is the price of ONE pair now.


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## Bikepilot (2 Apr 2018)

A tea light candle can be handy to rub on inner cables to revitalise them. Better than sprays which have habit of attracting dirt.


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## Kestevan (6 May 2018)

Line up your valve stem with a suitable logo on the tyre. That way when you get a puncture you should be able to narrow down the area of the tyre to inspect for the sharp.

A piece of cotton wool lightly rubbed on the inside of the tyre will often snag on the sharp you failed to find despite doing the above.....


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## PaulSB (11 May 2018)

@Kestevan I like that one. 

Just remembered this tip. New tubes can be dusted in talc and then wrapped in cling film. When the tube is replaced it becomes far easier to slip the last of the tyre on to the rim. The talc is acting as a dry lubricant.


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## si_c (11 May 2018)

PaulSB said:


> @Kestevan I like that one.
> 
> Just remembered this tip. New tubes can be dusted in talc and then wrapped in cling film. When the tube is replaced it becomes far easier to slip the last of the tyre on to the rim. The talc is acting as a dry lubricant.



Unless it's raining, when it probably acts like glue.


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## youngoldbloke (11 May 2018)

si_c said:


> Unless it's raining, when it probably acts like glue.


Always best to dust talc over the inside of your tyres when changing tyres/tubes at home, though I don't think it acts like glue when wet anyway. I'll check next time I use the Johnson's Baby Talc


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## ColinJ (11 May 2018)

Here's a money-saving tip: If you make a habit of riding to distant railway stations and then catching the train home, why not train really hard so you get fit enough to cycle back? You will wear tyres and other bike parts out slightly more often but think of the saving on fares!


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## si_c (11 May 2018)

ColinJ said:


> Here's a money-saving tip: If you make a habit of riding to distant railway stations and then catching the train home, why not train really hard so you get fit enough to cycle back? You will wear tyres and other bike parts out slightly more often but think of the saving on fares!


That's my cunning plan with commuting, save money so I can spend it on cake/chocolate/bike bits.


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## youngoldbloke (11 May 2018)

si_c said:


> Unless it's raining, when it probably acts like glue.


- I think you're confusing it with flour .......


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## si_c (11 May 2018)

youngoldbloke said:


> - I think you're confusing it with flour .......



White, powdery, at least I didn't think it was cocaine!


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## Blue Hills (11 May 2018)

ADarkDraconis said:


> Wheel guy at the LBS yesterday told me that Gorilla tape makes great rim tape! They use it for a lot, but I never thought of that.


Won't it be too wide and tricky to cut narrower?


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## Blue Hills (11 May 2018)

PeteXXX said:


> Don’t dump all of those plastic food containers straight into the recycling bin.
> Save a few to keep the nuts and bolts in when you take summat apart.
> Also useful if you have to soak any parts in degreaser.


For bits, i use the small flattish tins (ones the tops peel off with a ringpull) that the certain fish come in, mackerel, sardines etc.


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## Reynard (11 May 2018)

Blue Hills said:


> For bits, i use the small flattish tins (ones the tops peel off with a ringpull) that the certain fish come in, mackerel, sardines etc.



Or the little cans from Gourmet Gold cat food.

For laying out stuff as I take it apart, a large clear plastic tray that was originally filled with strawberries.


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## Blue Hills (11 May 2018)

Yes i have done that in the distant past tho can't remember details.


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## Ming the Merciless (11 May 2018)

Put a bit of luminous paint on the spokes either side of the valve. Find that valve easily, even at night, and give a bit more side visibility on the wheels.


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## Reynard (11 May 2018)

Dogtrousers said:


> But beware.
> 
> If you take something apart, pop the nuts/bolts/screws/bearings or whatnot into a yoghurt pot, and then pour in some white spirit to clean them up, and then wander off , when you come back the white spirit will have eaten through the bottom of the pot.
> 
> (At least I think it was white spirit and yoghurt pot. Some combination of solvent and food container anyway ...)



Happens with some solvents and latex gloves as well. Been there, done that...

Better to use an old metal lid screw-top jam jar if dealing with solvents or petrol etc.


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