# My Raleigh Bike. The Start.



## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

Just got this today and pleased as punch. Lots to ask and lots to do.
These numbers were at the bottom of the frame.. 50619068 is that the frame number ?


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## Drago (12 Jan 2019)

Late eighties?


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## midlife (12 Jan 2019)

Is that a unicrown fork? Maybe a tad later?


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## biggs682 (12 Jan 2019)

@Boon 51 that looks good and your bike storage area looks to tidy


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> @Boon 51 that looks good and your bike storage area looks to tidy



Bit of an anorak when it come to my bike shed @biggs682 and cleaning bikes. lol.


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

Couple of questions guys. 

Now the bike is in the bike stand I noticed there is a tight spot when you turn the bars so I'm thinking the head race is shot and the stem is crap so I need both of these can anyone point me to them as I'm not sure on what are the right bits.
The rear brake cable seems to be internal now is that the both inner and outer cable or are the outer cables just tuck in the tube? and on that subject can I upgrade to Ultegra stuff as I have seen this on another bike?


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

Here's the stem..


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## midlife (12 Jan 2019)

Do you mean the tricolour Ultegra stuff on the Argos bike? Headset will be £30-50. If the headset is trashed then a £15 ish Tange will do the job with ease. Depends on how much you want to spend


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## midlife (12 Jan 2019)

By crap do you mean you don't like the shape / size or is it the pitting?

Here's some Tricolor kit. 

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/329484/#comment14572715


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Do you mean the tricolour Ultegra stuff on the Argos bike? Headset will be £30-50. If the headset is trashed then a £15 ish Tange will do the job with ease. Depends on how much you want to spend



I have seem some nearly new Ultegra F &R brake calipers for £25 on fleebay. The head set would be just a normal one.


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> By crap do you mean you don't like the shape / size or is it the pitting?
> 
> Here's some Tricolor kit.
> 
> https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/329484/#comment14572715



Just the pitting on stem and not a whole groupset.


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## midlife (12 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have seem some nearly new Ultegra F &R brake calipers for £25 on fleebay. The head set would be just a normal one.



Ultegra branding covers many shimano components for years and years 

Polish out the pitting on the stem? Replacements are not difficult to find, just need to check the size of the bars.


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Ultegra branding covers many shimano components for years and years
> 
> Polish out the pitting on the stem? Replacements are not difficult to find, just need to check the size of the bars.



I will measure the bar size tomorrow and then look on ebay.

cheers


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## roadrash (12 Jan 2019)

@Boon 51 I know its up to you how you go about it but, seeing as you want to replace stuff, I cant help wondering, , if you would have been better off buying a vintage frame and sourcing the relevant parts.


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## biggs682 (12 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Bit of an anorak when it come to my bike shed @biggs682 and cleaning bikes. lol.



You are welcome to come and practice both on my bikes and there shed


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

roadrash said:


> @Boon 51 I know its up to you how you go about it but, seeing as you want to replace stuff, I cant help wondering, , if you would have been better off buying a vintage frame and sourcing the relevant parts.



I hear what you are saying so I might be doing it right might be wrong I don't know, but I will enjoy the ride so to speak.


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> You are welcome to come and practice both on my bikes and there shed



That's funny a lot of people have said that too me..


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## Boon 51 (12 Jan 2019)

Can't find the link in the chain so is it a chain link remover chain?


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## midlife (12 Jan 2019)

Yup, I have a good old Rivoli chain tool but loads of others available 

Hilary Stone has some hints on stem sizes 

http://www.hilarystone.com/stems.html


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Yup, I have a good old Rivoli chain tool but loads of others available I
> 
> Hilary Stone has some hints on stem sizes
> 
> http://www.hilarystone.com/stems.html



Those stems look OK.. When you have pushed the pin through to break the chain where would you get another pin from I do have one somewhere bit its for an 11sp chain.


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## raleighnut (13 Jan 2019)

Looks a good project. 

I'll bet the headrace just needs cleaning and greasing but it could need new bearings and the stem/bars will polish up ok, I'd use a kitchen scourer and then Solvol Autosol.


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## EltonFrog (13 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Bit of an anorak when it come to my bike shed @biggs682 and cleaning bikes. lol.



That shed looks tidier than my front room. Nice project, bit of fine wire wool and autosol on the bare metal it’ll come up a treat.


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## dave r (13 Jan 2019)

CarlP said:


> That shed looks tidier than my front room. Nice project, bit of fine wire wool and autosol on the bare metal it’ll come up a treat.



It looks tidier than our house.


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

CarlP said:


> That shed looks tidier than my front room. Nice project, bit of fine wire wool and autosol on the bare metal it’ll come up a treat.



I have just give it a rough clean but it will take several cleans I reckon.. cheers mate


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

Took the pin out of the chain without damage do i put the same pin back?

I tried to take the inner chain ring off and I could break the bolts but then they just spin and you can't stop the back bit from spinning.. any thoughts


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

dave r said:


> It looks tidier than our house.



That's only for the camera.


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## biggs682 (13 Jan 2019)

Re use the old pin or use a quick link .

Use a decent size flat blade screwdriver across the slots


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## midlife (13 Jan 2019)

Did you push the pin out completely ? With a bike that old I'd be tempted to buy a new chain / cassette / freewheel.

The chainring bolts have a special tool for the inside half. 






As mentioned above, a big flat bladed screwdriver should stop them spinning.


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## biggs682 (13 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Did you push the pin out completely ? With a bike that old I'd be tempted to buy a new chain / cassette / freewheel.
> 
> The chainring bolts have a special tool for the inside half.
> View attachment 446883
> ...



Must admit a new chain and cassette or freewheel would be a good idea


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## mikeymustard (13 Jan 2019)

roadrash said:


> @Boon 51 I know its up to you how you go about it but, seeing as you want to replace stuff, I cant help wondering, , if you would have been better off buying a vintage frame and sourcing the relevant parts.


I think he did the right thing buying a complete bike, particularly as a first project for at least several reasons: it (almost) always works out cheaper - a pair of wheels alone is worth 1/2 the price paid, and he won't need to replace everything, it tends to come together quicker cos you can ride it as you go along, and more importantly it's easier to know what you're looking for when you already have a component to compare! 
Bare frame for next project, though eh?


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## mikeymustard (13 Jan 2019)

Btw nice looking bike, I'm a sucker for blue bikes!


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## carpenter (13 Jan 2019)

as above - vintage (27") wheels always seem to be very expensive to buy compared to whole bike


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## midlife (13 Jan 2019)

Likely be running 700c clinchers in that era?


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## Illaveago (13 Jan 2019)

It looks a bit like a Criterium .

Nice bike .


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Did you push the pin out completely ? With a bike that old I'd be tempted to buy a new chain / cassette / freewheel.
> 
> The chainring bolts have a special tool for the inside half.
> View attachment 446883
> ...



I will try and put the chain back on with the original pin but if that fails I will just get a new chain as they are only a few quid.


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

The wheels are Elsa 622 700cc and not bad condition really.


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

My first big problem.. can't get the pedal off on the chain side I have soaked with WD 40 but its not budging, Any tips?


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## Alwaysbroken (13 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> My first big problem.. can't get the pedal off on the chain side I have soaked with WD 40 but its not budging, Any tips?



More leverage, heat, protect the other crank arm & lock it in a vice & use sensible impact repeatedly on the pedal spanner.


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## biggs682 (13 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> My first big problem.. can't get the pedal off on the chain side I have soaked with WD 40 but its not budging, Any tips?



As @Alwaysbroken says more leverage and turn it the right way


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## midlife (13 Jan 2019)

There's a good YouTube vid on how to position the bike, cranks, pedal spanner and weight to remove pedals. Mind you the bloke in the vid I've seen is twice the size of me lol I guess you have a proper pedal spanner  

If the pin is completely out then its a nightmare to get back in. The trick is to leave the pin just in the outer plate and flex the chain to separate. A new chain on a worn cassette / freewheel is liable to skip


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> As @Alwaysbroken says more leverage and turn it the right way



A load more WD 40 over night and my mate has a bit of piping for an extra bit of leverage.


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> There's a good YouTube vid on how to position the bike, cranks, pedal spanner and weight to remove pedals. Mind you the bloke in the vid I've seen is twice the size of me lol I guess you have a proper pedal spanner
> 
> If the pin is completely out then its a nightmare to get back in. The trick is to leave the pin just in the outer plate and flex the chain to separate. A new chain on a worn cassette / freewheel is liable to skip



I have a few pedal spanners but the biggest is only 10 - 12 inches which when you are putting a bit of weight behind it its not that long.
Yes I took the pin right out so I might need a new chain but the old one is old so it won't hurt really.


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

The bike has white brake and gear cables but I was thinking about putting black on the bike but would that be to uniform or dull perhaps?


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## midlife (13 Jan 2019)

Can you extend the spanner in some way? Cable colour is personal choice as long as they don't clash lol


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## SkipdiverJohn (13 Jan 2019)

If you start replacing every little thing that isn't cosmetically perfect it will quickly get expensive and far outweigh the value of the bike. It's probably getting on for 28 years old, so you cant expect not to find signs of wear & tear and atmospheric exposure. Best to accept it for what it is and don't go too OCD.
I would just strip and regrease the headset and see what it feels like afterwards. The one in my pub bike was full of filth and rust and I just cleaned it out and whacked it back together with fresh grease! 
As for pedals, if they wont come off, repeatedly spray them with penetrating fluid and just carry on using the bike. I've found soaking time can make a big difference. Sometimes it takes weeks but stuff does normally come apart eventually. Seatposts are another pig job that require persistence.


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## Rusty Nails (13 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> You are welcome to come and practice both on my bikes and there shed



That shed is tidier and cleaner than my living room


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> If you start replacing every little thing that isn't cosmetically perfect it will quickly get expensive and far outweigh the value of the bike. It's probably getting on for 28 years old, so you cant expect not to find signs of wear & tear and atmospheric exposure. Best to accept it for what it is and don't go too OCD.
> I would just strip and regrease the headset and see what it feels like afterwards. The one in my pub bike was full of filth and rust and I just cleaned it out and whacked it back together with fresh grease!
> As for pedals, if they wont come off, repeatedly spray them with penetrating fluid and just carry on using the bike. I've found soaking time can make a big difference. Sometimes it takes weeks but stuff does normally come apart eventually. Seatposts are another pig job that require persistence.



I'm not going to spend loads, I was looking at £50.00 ish so the total out lay is just over £100 which to me still represents good value for money. My race bike cost me over £4.500 but has no more fun value because I'm having the enjoyment of building what I want. I have plans for another bike which I will be run on a shoe string just for the fun of it.


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## SkipdiverJohn (13 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have plans for another bike which I will be run on a shoe string just for the fun of it.



In that case, your challenge is to achieve a functional working bike build for less than £12, and see how long you can keep it running using nothing but cast-off secondhand parts & consumables like tyres and brakes, without actually buying anything for it new.


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> In that case, your challenge is to achieve a functional working bike build for less than £12, and see how long you can keep it running using nothing but cast-off secondhand parts & consumables like tyres and brakes, without actually buying anything for it new.



That's the sort of plan..


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## Boon 51 (13 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Can you extend the spanner in some way? Cable colour is personal choice as long as they don't clash lol



My mate next door is bringing a piece of piping for a bit more leverage tomorrow night,


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## Rusty Nails (13 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> My mate next door is bringing a piece of piping for a bit more leverage tomorrow night,



A 3ft length of scaffold tube has been a very useful addition to my tool collection. Especially for stuck BBs.


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## mikeymustard (13 Jan 2019)

Rusty Nails said:


> A 3ft length of scaffold tube has been a very useful addition to my tool collection. Especially for stuck BBs.


Very difficult to get in the saddle bag though


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## biggs682 (14 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> Very difficult to get in the saddle bag though



Just cable tie it to your top tube


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

Rusty Nails said:


> A 3ft length of scaffold tube has been a very useful addition to my tool collection. Especially for stuck BBs.



Hopefully a cup of tea and a sticky bun might tempt him to leave it at my house.


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Just cable tie it to your top tube



Better still I have a service car driven by my wife Trudi..


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## Illaveago (14 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Just cable tie it to your top tube


Or across your handlebars if you prefer long ones.


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

Will these fit my my bike?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RACING-B...TABLE-FIXIE-70s-80s-90s-RACERS-N/202546719012


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

If I can't put the pin back in my chain I have just seen a 6/7/8 speed link. So if I remove half a link to make the right size chain would this fit?


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## carpenter (14 Jan 2019)

I don't think that those hoods will fit - from your photograph it looks like you have Shimano Action or Motion levers which have an awkward semi circular cover on the side - they are available from a US dealer but NOS cost $44 
Easier (and cheaper) to buy a "new" set of levers 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-...h=item2abf41d6d2:g:kdMAAOSwXGRcHMb-:rk:4:pf:0

or

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-...h=item3b26d7404e:g:W7wAAOSw6gdb2BWu:rk:5:pf:0

Black looks good for longer!


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## Kempstonian (14 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> You are welcome to come and practice both on my bikes and there shed


From what I've seen I reckon that's a full time job for the next three months or so!


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> I don't think that those hoods will fit - from your photograph it looks like you have Shimano Action or Motion levers which have an awkward semi circular cover on the side - they are available from a US dealer but NOS cost $44
> Easier (and cheaper) to buy a "new" set of levers
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-...h=item2abf41d6d2:g:kdMAAOSwXGRcHMb-:rk:4:pf:0
> 
> ...



Good find. One states the left clamp is missing would this be easy to get?


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> I don't think that those hoods will fit - from your photograph it looks like you have Shimano Action or Motion levers which have an awkward semi circular cover on the side - they are available from a US dealer but NOS cost $44
> Easier (and cheaper) to buy a "new" set of levers
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-...h=item2abf41d6d2:g:kdMAAOSwXGRcHMb-:rk:4:pf:0
> 
> ...



Not too keen on the white one's..


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## carpenter (14 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Good find. One states the left clamp is missing would this be easy to get?



Yes - take it off the ones you have already


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Yes - take it off the ones you have already




DOH....


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Here's the stem..
> View attachment 446840


It looks like a Cinelli 1A, its just where the anodizing has failed in places. As others have suggested just polish it out. There is a small problem but its only a niggle, if you polish the oxidation spots off you will find a satin brushed finish underneath. A lot of that finish will still be in good condition and the act of polishing will expose the aluminium under the anodized surface. You will have a patchy finish and be tempted to go the whole hog and polish everything above the steerer tube line. Without a machine polisher, wheels and soap it will take a lump of time to finish. If you did it and by hand then bite the bullet and use 600 grit silicone carbide followed by 1000 grit then polish, it will still take a long time. 
If it was mine I would just take a green 3M scrub to it with some soapy water. I machine polished a Cinelli stem a few years ago and it looks dandy but the polishing exposed the manufacturing/casting defects and it still took detailed work to look right. The anodizing protects the alu from oxidation, it is in effect a controlled oxidation so you would need to keep the salt and other corrosive crud off it.


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

This was very corroded when it was given to me, so much so that the surface flaked slightly when rubbed with a finger.


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## biggs682 (14 Jan 2019)

Kempstonian said:


> From what I've seen I reckon that's a full time job for the next three months or so!



Easily


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> View attachment 447160
> View attachment 447161
> This was very corroded when it was given to me, so much so that the surface flaked slightly when rubbed with a finger.



That's first class mines a long way off that..


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> You are welcome to come and practice both on my bikes and there shed


If I was to ask if a hand grenade thrown into your shed would actually make it look tidier Biggs?


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> There's a good YouTube vid on how to position the bike, cranks, pedal spanner and weight to remove pedals. Mind you the bloke in the vid I've seen is twice the size of me lol I guess you have a proper pedal spanner
> 
> If the pin is completely out then its a nightmare to get back in. The trick is to leave the pin just in the outer plate and flex the chain to separate. A new chain on a worn cassette / freewheel is liable to skip


So funny, my visiting friend who is mentioned in my contentious electric bike thread took a couple of links out of his chain while here, why I don't know because he only used the pedals to rest his feet on. Anyway I handed him my chain riveter and went off to work leaving him to crack on. Ten minutes later, "how do you get the pin back in"? "You pushed it right out, oh dear". Took some serious accurate positioning and hand force to find a hold with good pliers.


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Can't find the link in the chain so is it a chain link remover chain?


 Pin left in place. Place both end together, screw the pin home with the riveter. Make sure there is equal in protrusion both sides. Give the riveted link a waggle to make sure it is free.


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

Did you and your friend manage to remove the left pedal? I'm not one to tell others how to suck eggs and I hate to even ask but you did exert force in a clockwise direction?


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## biggs682 (14 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> If I was to ask if a hand grenade thrown into your shed would actually make it look tidier Biggs?



Might well do


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Might well do


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## midlife (14 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> Pin left in place. Place both end together, screw the pin home with the riveter. Make sure there is equal in protrusion both sides. Give the riveted link a waggle to make sure it is free.
> View attachment 447191
> 
> View attachment 447193
> View attachment 447195



Move newly joined chain to the prongs behind the one you have just used and tweak the pin in tbe tiniest amount before you waggle the chain..... Force of habit lol


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> Did you and your friend manage to remove the left pedal? I'm not one to tell others how to suck eggs and I hate to even ask but you did exert force in a clockwise direction?



No the pedal is still on the bike so I'm taking it to the bike shop me being a novice. But what I don't understand is this.
The pedal is 9/16th but the pedal spanner is 15mm so its not the right fit to put loads of weight behind it as I found out because the spanner slipped the few times. They bikeshop will have a proper pedal spanner and of course some way of heating the crank arm to help matters. I don't want to ruin the crank in anyway and end up buying a new one. Its not the result I wanted but will be cheaper than a new chainset.


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> No the pedal is still on the bike so I'm taking it to the bike shop me being a novice. But what I don't understand is this.
> The pedal is 9/16th but the pedal spanner is 15mm so its not the right fit to put loads of weight behind it as I found out because the spanner slipped the few times. They bikeshop will have a proper pedal spanner and of course some way of heating the crank arm to help matters. I don't want to ruin the crank in anyway and end up buying a new one. Its not the result I wanted but will be cheaper than a new chainset.


They will also have a big vice with soft jaws to clamp the crank in and avoid the wrangle you no doubt had when you tried. Doubt it will cost an arm and leg for that job. If the right pedal came out easily enough the left will not be so bad as to require brute force.


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## randynewmanscat (14 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Move newly joined chain to the prongs behind the one you have just used and tweak the pin in tbe tiniest amount before you waggle the chain..... Force of habit lol


Well spotted midlife, I should have said that.


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## midlife (14 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> No the pedal is still on the bike so I'm taking it to the bike shop me being a novice. But what I don't understand is this.
> The pedal is 9/16th but the pedal spanner is 15mm so its not the right fit to put loads of weight behind it as I found out because the spanner slipped the few times. They bikeshop will have a proper pedal spanner and of course some way of heating the crank arm to help matters. I don't want to ruin the crank in anyway and end up buying a new one. Its not the result I wanted but will be cheaper than a new chainset.



9/16" x 20 tpi is the thread of the spindle. Spanners have been 15mm for as long as I can remember


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> 9/16" x 20 tpi is the thread of the spindle. Spanners have been 15mm for as long as I can remember



All three of my 15mm pedal spanners are not a tight fit that's for sure.. bummer. But would a bike of this age be AF and not metric.


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## Boon 51 (14 Jan 2019)

@carpenter Bought the levers with the clip missing for a tenner..


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## Boon 51 (15 Jan 2019)

Yippppeeee.. The pedal is off, so the story was I took the bike to one shop and left it for an hour and on my return they said they couldn't do so I took to another bike shop and saw a guy called Chris and he said let me have a look? He went and fetched his pedal spanner which had a far size handle for plenty of leverage. He put the crank facing the back of the back told me to hold the seat and handle bars to stop the bike moving about and he then pressed on the spanner and undone the pedal.. Total time about 15 sec total cost a sticky bun from the cake shop opposite..


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## randynewmanscat (15 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Yippppeeee.. The pedal is off, so the story was I took the bike to one shop and left it for an hour and on my return they said they couldn't do so I took to another bike shop and saw a guy called Chris and he said let me have a look? He went and fetched his pedal spanner which had a far size handle for plenty of leverage. He put the crank facing the back of the back told me to hold the seat and handle bars to stop the bike moving about and he then pressed on the spanner and undone the pedal.. Total time about 15 sec total cost a sticky bun from the cake shop opposite..


Small steps boon, small steps and one nearer to finishing your renovation, you now have an honest bike mechanic to rely on when you don't have the tools and are still learning the knowledge.


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## Boon 51 (15 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> Small steps boon, small steps and one nearer to finishing your renovation, you now have an honest bike mechanic to rely on when you don't have the tools and are still learning the knowledge.



They are a bit of a marmite bike shop they charged me £6.20 for an inner tube a few weeks back which wiggle sell for £2.95 then undone my pedal for free.
That's life I suppose lol.
Today a freed pedal and tomorrow I shall have a look at the head race.
Its all go innit.


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## Boon 51 (15 Jan 2019)

Do I need any special tools for this head race job ?


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## midlife (15 Jan 2019)

Big spanners mostly or big mole grips with protection. 

Removing the stem might be the tricky part. Undo the Allen bolt by about a centimetre then smack it hard with something like a hammer against a piece of wood on the Allen key. This should release the wedge and allow the stem to come up. Have a go now to check


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## randynewmanscat (15 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> They are a bit of a marmite bike shop they charged me £6.20 for an inner tube a few weeks back which wiggle sell for £2.95 then undone my pedal for free.
> That's life I suppose lol.
> Today a freed pedal and tomorrow I shall have a look at the head race.
> Its all go innit.


This is current on here, there's another thread concerning the demise of bike shops big and small. The reasons for the high prices on consumables and many other parts at independent bike shops are complex hence a lengthy thread. If the local councils and the property landlords where not such gougers the high street might not look so post apocalyptic. There's other reasons and if you take a peek at that thread you will see many views.


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## randynewmanscat (15 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Do I need any special tools for this head race job ?


Same as midlife says when you don't have special tools. Pump pliers are pretty useful for this job. If you cut an aluminium drinks can up you can make a good protection strip to place around the locknut for the race assembly. Getting the thing off is normally straightforward, it is when you come to rebuild that you could do with the thin spanner just for this job. When you don't have the thin spanner you will need to do some guess work on how far to back off the actual race housing, or may not, read on.
If you are lucky and I think the era of that bike may be a blessing the steerer tube will have a groove down it and between the race housing and the locknut will be a washer with a tooth that locates in the groove on the steerer tube. The washer is locked from turning due to the tooth and groove so that when you tighten the locknut the race housing stays almost perfectly adjusted. Even then you may need to back off the race adjustment a tiny, tiny bit. The lock washer will try to turn but only by a fraction, it will attempt to spin the race a little tighter though only by a tiny amount.
I don't have any frames with the forks off to do an explanatory. 
I'll keep an eye on the thread as others are doing and we can see you through this bit between us.


----------



## Boon 51 (15 Jan 2019)

I won't be doing the forks till tomorrow as I have to go out first thing. 

Thanks for the help you guys are giving me its been first class.. Your all stars.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

Took handle bars off and this is what I have left.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

I have the bevelled bit at the top then underneath a small ring with the grooves now that just spins round then a chrome ring then the big ring at the bottom.
The second ring just turns but nothing happens?
So what order to I take these off.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

PS.. I have just watched two video's and none look like the one I have on my bike?


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have the bevelled bit at the top then underneath a small ring with the grooves now that just spins round then a chrome ring then the big ring at the bottom.
> The second ring just turns but nothing happens?
> So what order to I take these off.



Is there a small grubb screw or allen key in the top one ?
If not then it should just wind up once you have released it so would suggest getting 2 prs of wide jaw pliers if no special tools holding the bottom one still and turn the top one to release


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Is there a small grubb screw or allen key in the top one ?
> If not then it should just wind up once you have released it so would suggest getting 2 prs of wide jaw pliers if no special tools holding the bottom one still and turn the top one to release


 I will go and have a look.


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

No biggs mate..


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> No biggs mate..



ok then grab both with pliers or special tools and holding the bottom one the top one should undo and then once top one has come off the spacer should lift up and then the lower nut should undo


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

The second one down just turns to the left or right and the big one at the bottom won't budge?


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## randynewmanscat (16 Jan 2019)

Boon, what are the two "marks" I have highlighted?


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

so have you managed to slacken off or remove the top one ?
if so then take the shiny middle spacer ring off and the lower one should undo unless i am missing something


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> Boon, what are the two "marks" I have highlighted?
> View attachment 447413



That's why i asked did it have grub screws


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## randynewmanscat (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> That's why i asked did it have grub screws


Your question Biggs is what made me look for something!


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> Boon, what are the two "marks" I have highlighted?
> View attachment 447413



I have just had a look with a magnifying glass and it looks just like its been hit at some time.


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> so have you managed to slacken off or remove the top one ?
> if so then take the shiny middle spacer ring off and the lower one should undo unless i am missing something



No as it just turns both ways?


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> No as it just turns both ways?



How far does it turn left or right ?
it should just keep turning up the threads then pop off


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

In randynewmanscat close up is the tapered bit and the thin grid bit underneath all in one?


----------



## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> In randynewmanscat close up is the tapered bit and the thin grid bit underneath all in one?



I think so


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> How far does it turn left or right ?
> it should just keep turning up the threads then pop off



I will turn it anticlock wise for a while and see what happens?


----------



## randynewmanscat (16 Jan 2019)

These are usually 3 separate components. So the knurled and bevelled top piece spins freely if you screw it "righty tighty" down? My rubbish amended MS paint image sort of shows what should be 3 different parts.


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

ok i have turned it anticlockwise and it has got a little easier to turn but that is all.


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

randynewmanscat said:


> These are usually 3 separate components. So the knurled and bevelled top piece spins freely if you screw it "righty tighty" down? My rubbish amended MS paint image sort of shows what should be 3 different parts.
> View attachment 447415



That's clever how you done that . but yes the blue bit just spins both ways its not biting on anything if that makes sense.


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> ok i have turned it anticlockwise and it has got a little easier to turn but that is all.



has a gap appeared between the blue and red parts on @randynewmanscat picture ?


----------



## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> That's clever how you done that . but yes the blue bit just spins both ways its not biting on anything if that makes sense.



The more i look at that it looks like one i had on a 90's Giant Peleton a while back that had a push over trim part that popped up to reveal the top nut underneath


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> has a gap appeared between the blue and red parts on @randynewmanscat picture ?


 
FFS.. Just as a thought as I walked to the garage I will put a screwdriver in between blue bit and the red and see what occurs would you believe it popped off so its just a rubber cap. Now you can see the locknut.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> The more i look at that it looks like one i had on a 90's Giant Peleton a while back that had a push over trim part that popped up to reveal the top nut underneath



Well you were right..lol


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

I have to get a spanner to fit I have just measured it would be 29/30mm , would that be right?


----------



## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have to get a spanner to fit I have just measured it and it would be 29/30mm would that be right?


yes 30mm or big pr of pliers does same job 



Boon 51 said:


> Well you were right..lol



it does happen sometimes but never when i need it to , only remembered it this afternoon


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

Its all stripped down the photo shows the frame upside down and as you can see its all very clean and the two bushes as well. I have tested all the ball bearing all move freely so it all looks good to put back.


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## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

@Boon 51 that was the hardest work i have had doing a headset strip and clean , and the bike was 100 + miles away , but you got there so well done , all looks good just add some good quality grease and then rebuild it .

Hope you are enjoying the rebuild , whats the next job ?


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## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> @Boon 51 that was the hardest work i have had doing a headset strip and clean , and the bike was 100 + miles away , but you got there so well done , all looks good just add some good quality grease and then rebuild it .
> 
> Hope you are enjoying the rebuild , whats the next job ?



I have some multi purpose grease already for tomorrow. 
I'm going to put the grease on with my finger so how much grease should I put on, a light, medium or heavy smear, I couldn't tell when I stripped it down as it was bone dry and you put grease on first then bearings then a little more grease on top. I have some bits on order like brake levers and cables which should arrive by the weekend so it will be finished within a week.

As for my next job that's putting the kettle on lol. but I will get another bike that's for sure.

PS Thanks once again for all you help.


----------



## biggs682 (16 Jan 2019)

I always put a good amount in the cups then seat the bearings in place and then a smear on top , with all parts getting a smear for good luck 

So when are you doing the bottom bracket or have i missed that ?

Its addictive playing with these older bikes but you soon learn ways and tricks , the most rewarding bit i find is completing the first 200 miles on a bike that i have overhauled without having done any other work other than fine tuning it to fit .

You are welcome for any help ican offer


----------



## EltonFrog (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> FFS.. Just as a thought as I walked to the garage I will put a screwdriver in between blue bit and the red and see what occurs would you believe it popped off so its just a rubber cap. Now you can see the locknut.



Bikes are a bugger like that, when I was doing mine up I kept missing things that now seem obvious.


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## midlife (16 Jan 2019)

Just set them in the grease, any extra will squeeze out or go into the head tube. BITD with loose balls you had to have enough grease to hold them in the race.... 







Fill the cup completely with balls and then take one out. Caged bearings are much easier lol. Just check they are the right way round


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## EltonFrog (16 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Just set them in the grease, any extra will squeeze out or go into the head tube. BITD with loose balls you had to have enough grease to hold them in the race....
> 
> View attachment 447462
> 
> ...



Ah, yes I put too many in mine and couldn’t work out why the head tube locking nut popped off and steering felt notchy.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> I always put a good amount in the cups then seat the bearings in place and then a smear on top , with all parts getting a smear for good luck
> 
> So when are you doing the bottom bracket or have i missed that ?
> 
> ...




@biggs682 the grease will be done tomorrow, as for the bottom bracket I don't know as I have never rode the bike yet but I will soon find out.
I have really enjoyed this new venture and as you say get a few miles done and I will be a happy chappie.
I have had a mate round as he wanted to see the bike and has offered to buy it at well over the price I payed even with the extra bits.
So thinking aloud I might buy another bike just to do up and sell and when that is sold buy another ?
Happy Days .
boon


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Jan 2019)

CarlP said:


> Bikes are a bugger like that, when I was doing mine up I kept missing things that now seem obvious.



Yes I'm learning fast..


----------



## mikeymustard (16 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> @biggs682 the grease will be done tomorrow, as for the bottom bracket I don't know as I have never rode the bike yet but I will soon find out.
> I have really enjoyed this new venture and as you say get a few miles done and I will be a happy chappie.
> I have had a mate round as he wanted to see the bike and has offered to buy it at well over the price I payed even with the extra bits.
> So thinking aloud I might buy another bike just to do up and sell and when that is sold buy another ?
> ...


and so it begins...
Good job you took a pic of your workshop cos that's the last time you'll see it not full of bikes!
I've got to empty my garage to have a new roof put on; there are frames at the back that I haven't seen in two years


----------



## wonderdog (17 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> and so it begins...
> Good job you took a pic of your workshop cos that's the last time you'll see it not full of bikes!
> I've got to empty my garage to have a new roof put on; there are frames at the back that I haven't seen in two years


Just remember, they haven't seen you either and they may have bred in your absence.


----------



## raleighnut (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have some multi purpose grease already for tomorrow.
> I'm going to put the grease on with my finger so how much grease should I put on, a light, medium or heavy smear, I couldn't tell when I stripped it down as it was bone dry and you put grease on first then bearings then a little more grease on top. I have some bits on order like brake levers and cables which should arrive by the weekend so it will be finished within a week.
> 
> As for my next job that's putting the kettle on lol. but I will get another bike that's for sure.
> ...


I don't think it's possible to put too much grease in a headset.


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> and so it begins...
> Good job you took a pic of your workshop cos that's the last time you'll see it not full of bikes!
> I've got to empty my garage to have a new roof put on; there are frames at the back that I haven't seen in two years



My wife as her retired hobby makes handbags and such things and she said I ought to get a hobby apart from cycling so I think I have found one now.
Plus of course more bikes means cleaning which I love doing anyway.
So all is good.
Thanks for all the help mate..


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> I don't think it's possible to put too much grease in a headset.



Well that's good because I bought loads..


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

So on the grease subject is it worth getting a grease gun?


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## EltonFrog (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> So on the grease subject is it worth getting a grease gun?



No, just dawb it in with your fingers.


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

On randynewmanscat post with the coloured bits of the headrace.

The yellow bottom piece on mine was very hard to get off .. how tight should it be, I thought it was too tight?
(Don't know the name of that part)


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## EltonFrog (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> On randynewmanscat post with the coloured bits of the headrace.
> 
> The yellow bottom piece on mine was very hard to get off .. how tight should it be, I thought it was too tight?
> (Don't know the name of that part)



I think it’s the headset cup, should be quite stiff I believe, in my old bike I needed to knock it off with a piece of wood and a mallet.


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## EltonFrog (17 Jan 2019)

Took me ages to work out how to get this off.


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## EltonFrog (17 Jan 2019)

Actually, looking at that again I might be talking beau larks so check first before twatting it with anything.


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

I have just put it all back together it looks ok but something is not quite right? 

When I got the bike it had a tight spot which has now gone. but if I tighten the bottom thread too much the forks go stiff and If I tighten the top lock nut they go stiff as well but the lock nuts are only just over finger tight.
The bearings at the bottom are bearings facing up and on the top the bearings are also facing up are they the right way round?


----------



## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

CarlP said:


> Actually, looking at that again I might be talking beau larks so check first before twatting it with anything.



I talk bolarks as well..


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## mikeymustard (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have just put it all back together it looks ok but something is not quite right?
> 
> When I got the bike it had a tight spot which has now gone. but if I tighten the bottom thread too much the forks go stiff and If I tighten the top lock nut they go stiff as well but the lock nuts are only just over finger tight.
> The bearings at the bottom are bearings facing up and on the top the bearings are also facing up are they the right way round?


There's a bit of a knack to it but you need to stop the lower adjuster nut moving as you tighten the upper "lock" nut against it


----------



## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

Just had another go and the good news is the forks now turn smoothly the bad news is both lock nuts are only finger tight which can't be right?


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## raleighnut (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Just had another go and the good news is the forks now turn smoothly the bad news is both lock nuts are only finger tight which can't be right?


Tighten the top nut against the bottom one by holding it still, you may have to slacken off the bottom nut a bit more to achieve this without over-tightening the headset, it can take a few tries to get it just right.


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## mikeymustard (17 Jan 2019)

Sometimes you need to back off the bottom nut a touch (so it's slightly too loose) then cinch the top to tighten them

Edit @raleighnut you beat me to it


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## midlife (17 Jan 2019)

Check the caged bearings are the right way round, it’s posdible to assemble them upside down.


----------



## biggs682 (17 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Check the caged bearings are the right way round, it’s posdible to assemble them upside down.



That's another good reason to use loose bearings


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## carpenter (17 Jan 2019)

^^^^^^ and loose bearings are quite easy to stick in place with grease


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## mikeymustard (17 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> ^^^^^^ and loose bearings are quite easy to stick in place with grease


this is turning into one of those circular threads


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

I think I've done it, the forks turn just right and there is no movement in the forks. so what @raleighnut and @mikeymustard said about slackening the bottom lock nut was the answer, it did take me about 10 goes but it worked, I did think at the time the bottom lock nut was too loose but as it tightened up it was just about right.
Cheers one and all.


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## Kempstonian (17 Jan 2019)

You might find this useful...


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

Here's my 30mm spanner for my next project.


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## EltonFrog (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Here's my 30mm spanner for my next project.
> 
> View attachment 447547


Needs a bigger box.


----------



## roadrash (17 Jan 2019)

must be a box spanner


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

CarlP said:


> Needs a bigger box.



That's just what I thought it's big enough for a nice size pizza.


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## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

I'm just waiting for my new hood/levers to arrive so they can be fitted. 

On the bike when I got it the front brake had a nice loop from lever to brake but the rear brake cable ran under the bar tape which I thought was a bit odd.
So could I re route the rear brake cable another way?


----------



## mikeymustard (17 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I'm just waiting for my new hood/levers to arrive so they can be fitted.
> 
> On the bike when I got it the front brake had a nice loop from lever to brake but the rear brake cable ran under the bar tape which I thought was a bit odd.
> So could I re route the rear brake cable another way?


if you got the same or similar levers to what was on there they're aero levers which go under the bar tape


----------



## Boon 51 (17 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> if you got the same or similar levers to what was on there they're aero levers which go under the bar tape



They are Shimano Exage Action's so not sure if they are the same?


----------



## mikeymustard (17 Jan 2019)

if they're A-351 I think those are aero, pretty sure that was what was on my 89 Raleigh Elan originally


----------



## carpenter (18 Jan 2019)

Hard to tell from the photograph (although I am sure that they are Action or Motion levers) - the right hand/rear lever looks like the cable exits from the side rather than from underneath, has the previous owner cut a hole/made a slit in the rubber hood to allow this? Perhaps they didn't know how the fit an aero cable when renewing?


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Hard to tell from the photograph (although I am sure that they are Action or Motion levers) - the right hand/rear lever looks like the cable exits from the side rather than from underneath, has the previous owner cut a hole/made a slit in the rubber hood to allow this? Perhaps they didn't know how the fit an aero cable when renewing?



Now you said that I think there was a cut in the hood but didn't give it much thought at the time. These new lever i bought because it was a cheap way of getting the hoods. I think in time I might get some newer type levers anyway as they are just brake levers.
I am one of those people that get a bit ratty if something is not just right on my bike?


----------



## biggs682 (18 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I am one of those people that get a bit ratty if something is not just right on my bike?



You need to chill a bit when dealing with older bikes in my honest opinion just settle for things working


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> You need to chill a bit when dealing with older bikes in my honest opinion just settle for things working



Your asking a lot here biggs.


----------



## biggs682 (18 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Your asking a lot here biggs.



You can do it just have faith


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> You can do it just have faith



I can't promise anything but i'll try,


----------



## raleighnut (18 Jan 2019)

For headsets you need several different sizes on different bikes, this one for instance.





gives 4 different sizes in one spanner. I use something similar and a 'Bahco' big adjustable for the top nut.

EDIT - if you click on the picture it's a linky.


----------



## carpenter (18 Jan 2019)

Those Shimano levers are absolutely fine - bit of a classic imo, and this chap's

http://cyclescribe.blogspot.com/2014/03/great-moments-in-obscure-cheap-parts.html

If something is not quite right with these levers, it's either you or the previous owner  Just remember; new isn't necessarily better - that's why you have been tempted down the steel frame route!


----------



## rogerzilla (18 Jan 2019)

Raleigh forks were 26tpi until sometime in the 1980s. Generally the better bikes moved over to 24tpi ISO sizing first. Check before buying a new headset. If you have a 26tpi fork the best course of action is to find a suitable replacement 24tpi or even a 1" threadless fork (basically anything but Raleigh). Raleigh 26tpi headsets are no longer made. I got one NOS from the USA and it was not cheap. You can get away with just the top half, which wears very slowly, and use something else at the bottom; Raleigh headset standards are basically the same as JIS but with the finer thread, and JIS headsets are easy to find (Tange Passage).


----------



## carpenter (18 Jan 2019)

Just had a thought about the levers. 
Given that the hoods will be a few years old now, don't be tempted to pull hoods off your recent purchase and put on your bike's current ones, they may not take too well to being stretched too much.


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

rogerzilla said:


> Raleigh forks were 26tpi until sometime in the 1980s. Generally the better bikes moved over to 24tpi ISO sizing first. Check before buying a new headset. If you have a 26tpi fork the best course of action is to find a suitable replacement 24tpi or even a 1" threadless fork (basically anything but Raleigh). Raleigh 26tpi headsets are no longer made. I got one NOS from the USA and it was not cheap. You can get away with just the top half, which wears very slowly, and use something else at the bottom; Raleigh headset standards are basically the same as JIS but with the finer thread, and JIS headsets are easy to find (Tange Passage).



I did buy a Tange 1 inch threaded headrace just in case a re grease didn't work so at worse is I have a spare.


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Just had a thought about the levers.
> Given that the hoods will be a few years old now, don't be tempted to pull hoods off your recent purchase and put on your bike's current ones, they may not take too well to being stretched too much.



The levers I have bought have nice black hoods because the ones on the new bike I've Just got were so bad I had to put then in a dustbin bag before the dustman saw them?


----------



## mikeymustard (18 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Now you said that I think there was a cut in the hood but didn't give it much thought at the time. These new lever i bought because it was a cheap way of getting the hoods. I think in time I might get some newer type levers anyway as they are just brake levers.
> I am one of those people that get a bit ratty if something is not just right on my bike?


yes you're right - on the originals, however the cables ended up they should've been under the tape.
As far as getting newer levers is concerned, unless you upgrade to brake shifters, a lever is pretty much just a lever, and your exage are at least period correct.
Brake calipers on the other hand, now that's a different kettle of fish entirely!

Edit: or should I say "can of worms"?


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> yes you're right - on the originals, however the cables ended up they should've been under the tape.
> As far as getting newer levers is concerned, unless you upgrade to brake shifters, a lever is pretty much just a lever, and your exage are at least period correct.
> Brake calipers on the other hand, now that's a different kettle of fish entirely!
> 
> Edit: or should I say "can of worms"?



To be honest all I want is to have the cables in those nice loops at the front I think that's so cool, not bothered if its right or not.


----------



## randynewmanscat (18 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> The more i look at that it looks like one i had on a 90's Giant Peleton a while back that had a push over trim part that popped up to reveal the top nut underneath


Well spotted detective Biggs!


----------



## randynewmanscat (18 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> For headsets you need several different sizes on different bikes, this one for instance.
> 
> 
> View attachment 447643
> ...


That is neat! Never seen a stepped headset spanner before, I ended up buying two different sizes years ago and even the obligatory Shimano proprietary one to fit the 1980's 600Ex headsets.


----------



## carpenter (18 Jan 2019)

Oh dear - slippery slope warning 

Just bought aero levers, now decided you like nice cable loops at front of bike, next step buy some non aero levers, fast forward a month or two:

Bike finished, aero levers in "spare parts" corner of your (rather nice) workspace, little demon in you keeps nagging away about how good they would look on a very pretty Italian frame that you have seen for sale and wouldn't it be nice to have an example of a different style of bike.............


----------



## Boon 51 (18 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Oh dear - slippery slope warning
> 
> Just bought aero levers, now decided you like nice cable loops at front of bike, next step buy some non aero levers, fast forward a month or two:
> 
> Bike finished, aero levers in "spare parts" corner of your (rather nice) workspace, little demon in you keeps nagging away about how good they would look on a very pretty Italian frame that you have seen for sale and wouldn't it be nice to have an example of a different style of bike.............



I have just fitted the new levers and there is room enough to put the outer brake cable in the top. I will show a photo tomorrow so I think I might be able to have cable loops. I await your comments tomorrow on what you reckon?
PS.. I think you have me summed up perfectly.


----------



## mikeymustard (19 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have just fitted the new levers and there is room enough to put the outer brake cable in the top. I will show a photo tomorrow so I think I might be able to have cable loops. I await your comments tomorrow on what you reckon?
> PS.. I think you have me summed up perfectly.


 lol


----------



## 12boy (19 Jan 2019)

I would suggest as you reassemble the bike that you use either grease or antiseize compound on the bolts and components. This will make it so much easier to take apart later. Do not grease the bottom bracket spindles, though. Definitely apply some to the inside of the head tube and seat post tube and bottom bracket threads. If any of these get stuck, corroded or rusted in you will use some salty language as you try to get them out. When rebuilding loose bearings and bearing cage components use new bearing cages and ball bearings, as they don't cost much. Keep a magnet handy to control the loose balls as they can go all over. I have a syringe with grease inside that is ideal for applying small amounts of grease without getting your fingers greasy. Welcome to the glorious obsession of rebuilding/restoring old machines! A properly lubed and tuned old bike, especially one you did yourself, is such a joy to ride.


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## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

12boy said:


> I would suggest as you reassemble the bike that you use either grease or antiseize compound on the bolts and components. This will make it so much easier to take apart later. Do not grease the bottom bracket spindles, though. Definitely apply some to the inside of the head tube and seat post tube and bottom bracket threads. If any of these get stuck, corroded or rusted in you will use some salty language as you try to get them out. When rebuilding loose bearings and bearing cage components use new bearing cages and ball bearings, as they don't cost much. Keep a magnet handy to control the loose balls as they can go all over. I have a syringe with grease inside that is ideal for applying small amounts of grease without getting your fingers greasy. Welcome to the glorious obsession of rebuilding/restoring old machines! A properly lubed and tuned old bike, especially one you did yourself, is such a joy to ride.



My wife asked if there was anything wrong as I was so happy and I said its doing the bikes up.. cheecky mo.


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

I will put the chain on today but I have three options.
1/ Try and put the link in which might not work anyway?
2/ Put a speed link in which would take a few seconds. £3.00
3/ Buy a new chain for £7.00.
What would you do?


----------



## EltonFrog (19 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I will put the chain on today but I have three options.
> 1/ Try and put the link in which might not work anyway?
> 2/ Put a speed link in which would take a few seconds. £3.00
> 3/ But a new chain for £7.00.
> What would you do?



All three in that order, if the first one works, job done.


----------



## raleighnut (19 Jan 2019)

I'd try a new un, but keep the old chain just in case the rear block is too worn to accept a new chain.


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

Here's the hood I think I could put loops in.







I will of course have bar tape on first ?


----------



## midlife (19 Jan 2019)

Is this what you are trying to do?

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...BMAB6BAgMEAU&usg=AOvVaw11fMZZKvh261BbuTg-Mr_w


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

Plus I might put new gear cables in how do I undo the gear levers?


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Is this what you are trying to do?
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gk-GpDiPDms&ved=2ahUKEwjYvoOe5vnfAhV_SxUIHa4ODMIQwqsBMAB6BAgMEAU&usg=AOvVaw11fMZZKvh261BbuTg-Mr_w



Yes I will have a better look at the video later today as I got to go out ?


----------



## midlife (19 Jan 2019)

Strictly you don't need to dismantle the gear levers (downtube shifters) as the cable simply threads through, nothing wrong with taking them apart for cleaning though. There will be a screw to undo or a ring to unscrew by hand, they only go back together one way so camera at the ready lol.


----------



## raleighnut (19 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Plus I might put new gear cables in how do I undo the gear levers?


With downtube levers there is no need to disassemble anything on the lever, the cable nipple just pushes out and the new one threads in.
One thing to watch for is some cables have too big a nipple to fit in the hole, others are OK so take the old uns into a shop and check they're the same size.


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Strictly you don't need to dismantle the gear levers (downtube shifters) as the cable simply threads through, nothing wrong with taking them apart for cleaning though. There will be a screw to undo or a ring to unscrew by hand, they only go back together one way so camera at the ready lol.



Downtube shifters that's the name of them I didn't know that? It all looks very clean so I will only just change the cable? It has a ring and a screwdriver slot?
I will push the cable back hand see how it unfits.


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> With downtube levers there is no need to disassemble anything on the lever, the cable nipple just pushes out and the new one threads in.
> One thing to watch for is some cables have too big a nipple to fit in the hole, others are OK so take the old uns into a shop and check they're the same size.



OK I will have a go later on..


----------



## mikeymustard (19 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Here's the hood I think I could put loops in.
> 
> View attachment 447826
> 
> ...





midlife said:


> Is this what you are trying to do?
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gk-GpDiPDms&ved=2ahUKEwjYvoOe5vnfAhV_SxUIHa4ODMIQwqsBMAB6BAgMEAU&usg=AOvVaw11fMZZKvh261BbuTg-Mr_w


I've been mulling this over. I think converting your aero brakes to non-aero is going to look a bit strange if I'm honest. I'm also wondering if there might be a performance dip with cables not routing where they should be.
I think your options are to either buy a pair of non-aero levers or wait for nice loops of cable on your next project


----------



## midlife (19 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> I've been mulling this over. I think converting your aero brakes to non-aero is going to look a bit strange if I'm honest. I'm also wondering if there might be a performance dip with cables not routing where they should be.
> I think your options are to either buy a pair of non-aero levers or wait for nice loops of cable on your next project



Oops, have I posted the wrong vid? It was to show that you do the cable work *before* taping the bars to answer Boon 51's question. I thought it showed converting non aero to aero.


----------



## raleighnut (19 Jan 2019)

https://d1vfu4m1fkicia.cloudfront.net/imgs/products/oo/950_constW/BLDC204_P1.jpg


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> I've been mulling this over. I think converting your aero brakes to non-aero is going to look a bit strange if I'm honest. I'm also wondering if there might be a performance dip with cables not routing where they should be.
> I think your options are to either buy a pair of non-aero levers or wait for nice loops of cable on your next project



So how much would a pair of non- aero levers cost ?


----------



## carpenter (19 Jan 2019)

these?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-...=item3645d2aadb:g:y1YAAOSwFSNcQdSw:rk:10:pf:0


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

Me and my bike were chatting the other day about him having new tyres as the 20mm Gatorskins he had were shot and I didn't like the brake calipers: plus he needed new brake blocks which would cost me £8.00 so we worked out a plan.
I only have either Conti 4000's or Michelin Endurance Pro's spare (at £60 pair which I thought was too much to spend on him as he only cost me £62.) 
So what we agreed on is this, I would give him the Endurance Pro's and in return I'll buy some Shimano 105 calipers at £22 (out of his pocket money) so I would save the £8.00 on buying brake blocks making the calipers £14.00.
This now makes sense so he's spent £22.00 on brake calipers, £8.00 on inner/outer brake cables and £10.00 new hood/levers. Total £40.00 for bits and £62.00 buying him in the first place so we are both happy.
I'm not going to charge him the price of a saddle, pedals or bar tape as I have all of them so it won't cost me - he's a lucky bike to have found me!


----------



## Oldfentiger (19 Jan 2019)

I mentioned upthread that I’d ditched the aero levers on my Carlton Kermesse in favour of non-aero ones.
Here are before and after pics.......


----------



## southcoast (19 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Me and my bike were chatting the other day about him having new tyres as the 20mm Gatorskins he had were shot and I didn't like the brake calipers: plus he needed new brake blocks which would cost me £8.00 so we worked out a plan.
> I only have either Conti 4000's or Michelin Endurance Pro's spare (at £60 pair which I thought was too much to spend on him as he only cost me £62.)
> So what we agreed on is this, I would give him the Endurance Pro's and in return I'll buy some Shimano 105 calipers at £22 (out of his pocket money) so I would save the £8.00 on buying brake blocks making the calipers £14.00.
> This now makes sense so he's spent £22.00 on brake calipers, £8.00 on inner/outer brake cables and £10.00 new hood/levers. Total £40.00 for bits and £62.00 buying him in the first place so we are both happy.
> I'm not going to charge him the price of a saddle, pedals or bar tape as I have all of them so it won't cost me - he's a lucky bike to have found me!




Yes he is a lucky bike. It doesn’t take much to spend more than the purchasing price on new bits for these old bikes.
But it’s well worth it in my opinion as they can be great fun ride.
I purchased an old Falcon about eighteen months ago for £70 and it’s now running on a pair of continental Grand Prix 4 seasons tyres. Which cost about as much to buy as the bike! Lol


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

Oldfentiger said:


> View attachment 447853
> View attachment 447852
> I mentioned upthread that I’d ditched the aero levers on my Carlton Kermesse in favour of non-aero ones.
> Here are before and after pics.......



That's nice but I think the loops are a bit high for me but very nice all the same I do like that type of lever.


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

southcoast said:


> Yes he is a lucky bike. It doesn’t take much to spend more than the purchasing price on new bits for these old bikes.
> But it’s well worth it in my opinion as they can be great fun ride.
> I purchased an old Falcon about eighteen months ago for £70 and it’s now running on a pair of continental Grand Prix 4 seasons tyres. Which cost about as much to buy as the bike! Lol



Its worth spending a bit I think I want to look at it and think.. That's a really nice bike.


----------



## Oldfentiger (19 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> That's nice but I think the loops are a bit high for me but very nice all the same I do like that type of lever for me.


Yep - I’m gonna shorten those cables a bit. Better too long than too short, but easily rectified.


----------



## Alwaysbroken (19 Jan 2019)

What’s the cost of contentment?

I have replaced every bearing, nut, bolt cable any any part that showed signs of use on my worthless old Raleigh, financially pointless but I look at it and it makes me happy for a number of reasons.
Plenty of far worse ways of spending money.

It will look great once finished so keep spending


----------



## EltonFrog (19 Jan 2019)

Alwaysbroken said:


> What’s the cost of contentment?
> 
> I have replaced every bearing, nut, bolt cable any any part that showed signs of use on my worthless old Raleigh, financially pointless but I look at it and it makes me happy for a number of reasons.
> Plenty of far worse ways of spending money.
> ...


Quite agree, spent far too much on the BSA, worth every penny.


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> these?
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-...=item3645d2aadb:g:y1YAAOSwFSNcQdSw:rk:10:pf:0



Just put a bid on.


----------



## 12boy (19 Jan 2019)

As I have pointed out to my wife, there are far worse things than bikes to get hooked on. Boon 51, aren't there any bike coops in your area? When I drive the 300 miles to Denver to see my boys, I try to fit in a visit to one so I can go through their parts bins for tasty little treats. Then you could get proper nonaero brake levers and maybe some other groovy stuff. This talking to your bike is dangerous though...pretty soon you will be ordered to buy more and more goodies, and as we know resistance is futile!


----------



## Boon 51 (19 Jan 2019)

12boy said:


> As I have pointed out to my wife, there are far worse things than bikes to get hooked on. Boon 51, aren't there any bike coops in your area? When I drive the 300 miles to Denver to see my boys, I try to fit in a visit to one so I can go through their parts bins for tasty little treats. Then you could get proper nonaero brake levers and maybe some other groovy stuff. This talking to your bike is dangerous though...pretty soon you will be ordered to buy more and more goodies, and as we know resistance is futile!



A few more goodies is always a good thing..


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

Is there an alternative lever to the Shimano 600ex that would suit loop cables. I have put a bid on and as yet no reply but the others are dearer.


----------



## midlife (20 Jan 2019)

By "loop cables" do you mean like this?


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> By "loop cables" do you mean like this?
> 
> View attachment 448092



Yep lovely.... just lovely..


----------



## carpenter (20 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Is there an alternative lever to the Shimano 600ex that would suit loop cables. I have put a bid on and as yet no reply but the others are dearer.



Weinmann - good stuff, only thing against them is that they were so popular in this country in the 60's/70's:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/weinmann...=item4d89e1b002:g:lxgAAOSwiSVcRJMP:rk:17:pf:0

These have the advantage of cane creek hoods (about £10? new) which are relatively new, so in decent condition.


----------



## midlife (20 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Weinmann - good stuff, only thing against them is that they were so popular in this country in the 60's/70's:
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/weinmann...=item4d89e1b002:g:lxgAAOSwiSVcRJMP:rk:17:pf:0
> 
> These have the advantage of cane creek hoods (about £10? new) which are relatively new, so in decent condition.



Look like Weinmann Carerra levers, very nice


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Weinmann - good stuff, only thing against them is that they were so popular in this country in the 60's/70's:
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/weinmann...=item4d89e1b002:g:lxgAAOSwiSVcRJMP:rk:17:pf:0
> 
> These have the advantage of cane creek hoods (about £10? new) which are relatively new, so in decent condition.



Just put an offer in so we will see how it goes.. 

Cheers Paul.


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

I have seen a few bikes with the weinmann levers but no hood so do the hoods make a lot of difference ?


----------



## midlife (20 Jan 2019)

It makes it a lot more comfortable when riding on them


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

The £10.00 bid was excepted so that was nice and quick..


----------



## carpenter (20 Jan 2019)

^^^ nice deal and good looking levers - brown bar tape and brown leather saddle next 

as midlife said re comfort - think about frosty weather today! much better with hoods.


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> ^^^ nice deal and good looking levers - brown bar tape and brown leather saddle next
> 
> as midlife said re comfort - think about frosty weather today! much better with hoods.



Well happy with the levers and funny you should say about a brown saddle as I have just bought a brown Brooks Pro second hand just to try it out, I put it on my adventure bike today and it was really good so this will end up on the raleigh.


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> ^^^ nice deal and good looking levers - brown bar tape and brown leather saddle next
> 
> as midlife said re comfort - think about frosty weather today! much better with hoods.



Never thought about the cold weather.


----------



## carpenter (20 Jan 2019)

I think the brown saddle etc will go really well with the blue paint finish - looking forward to seeing update photographs.


----------



## Boon 51 (20 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> I think the brown saddle etc will go really well with the blue paint finish - looking forward to seeing update photographs.



I'm hoping to finish by next weekend if all goes well?


----------



## Boon 51 (21 Jan 2019)

Just had the second ride on my Brooks Pro and I have to say I really like it, Its a different shape to what I'm used to but very good so far?


----------



## Boon 51 (22 Jan 2019)

Question. The bike is blue and black and I would love to put a brown saddle and bar tape on for the classic look but ....
Brooks only do 3 tapes a £23 rubber one which is a no no, the Cambrium at £23 but the complaints were the finishing tape was crap and they had to use black tape to finish off which don't look right. or the top end leather one which comes in at £43 which is a bit dear?
I can't seem to find a decent brown bar tape. Or should I just get a black saddle and tape to fit in the the rest of the bike.


----------



## Boon 51 (22 Jan 2019)

@biggs682 Are you ok ?


----------



## biggs682 (22 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> @biggs682 Are you ok ?



ooh yes i am thanks


----------



## Boon 51 (22 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> ooh yes i am thanks



That's ok then..


----------



## carpenter (22 Jan 2019)

Brooks also make this:

https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Brooks-Mic...MI_OLWmp6B4AIVK7HtCh0rIQSAEAQYCCABEgLvUvD_BwE

Used to great effect by PHL67 - well worth looking at some of his restoration/paint job threads:

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/new-paint-jobs.242951/page-3

By the way, if you are thinking of buying another saddle (in black), then you have enough money to buy the Brooks leather


----------



## EltonFrog (22 Jan 2019)

I have no experience of the other Brooks tapes but the leather tape I have had on and off my bike several times and I’m pleased with it, very hard wearing.


----------



## mikeymustard (22 Jan 2019)

CarlP said:


> I have no experience of the other Brooks tapes but the leather tape I have had on and off my bike several times and I’m pleased with it, very hard wearing.


I agree, it's a lot of spuds upfront but it'll last years!
I bought some hand-cut leather tape off a guy on eBay a while back. He's run out now, I wish I'd bought a load when I had the chance. It wasn't as well finished as Brooks but I quite like its homespun looks. Also wish I'd asked him how he cut it now too, must've taken a steady hand!


----------



## carpenter (22 Jan 2019)

Your mentioning "hand cut" reminded me about this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30mm-x-1...199628?hash=item2f28d040cc:g:rRQAAOSwyiFb4cvo

I found it just before I splashed out about £30 on some Brooks leather tape, is it similar to what you bought? I was worried about thinning the edges for a neat overlap with the hand cut leather, so didn't go ahead.


----------



## Boon 51 (22 Jan 2019)

Brown bar tape and a brown Brooks saddle would finish the bike off nicely.


----------



## carpenter (22 Jan 2019)

Agree completely about keeping it brown.

Out of era but cloth tape would be another possibility:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-2-RO...h=item5691d53ba0:g:t5oAAOSwstJZPlyt:rk:1:pf:1


----------



## Boon 51 (22 Jan 2019)

I have just fitted the 105 brake calipers to the bike, the front caliper has no washer between the caliper and and the frame should I put one in or not ?


----------



## biggs682 (22 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have just fitted the 105 brake calipers to the bike, the front caliper has no washer between the caliper and and the frame should I put one in or not ?



Yes if one came off you must and one of serrated ones

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/diacompe-gc604-serrated-brake-washer/


----------



## Boon 51 (22 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Yes if one came off you must and one of serrated ones
> 
> https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/diacompe-gc604-serrated-brake-washer/



Yes I was sure it needed one.. Ta.


----------



## mikeymustard (22 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> Agree completely about keeping it brown.
> 
> Out of era but cloth tape would be another possibility:
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-2-RO...h=item5691d53ba0:g:t5oAAOSwstJZPlyt:rk:1:pf:1


 I can't search far back on my phone but I think that's the guy. He hasn't got the chestnut (nice reddish brown) that I put on my equilibrium though






Edit: sorry, wrong post quoted, I was still at work at the time


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> I can't search far back on my phone but I think that's the guy. He hasn't got the chestnut (nice reddish brown) that I put on my equilibrium though
> View attachment 448520
> 
> 
> Edit: sorry, wrong post quoted, I was still at work at the time



The brown tape is nice to look at.


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

Off the cuff question. 
I have found nearly all my spanners don't fit the bike properly as they are all old sizes.. where can I get some proper old size spanners from?


----------



## carpenter (23 Jan 2019)

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/prod...VipztCh0DZw8WEAQYASABEgJeL_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## Gravity Aided (23 Jan 2019)

The leather in question looks like upholstery leather, just look around for someplace where an old couch is being thrown out. That's what I've done in the past. I've been known to hop out of the car with a carpet knife and skin the back of an old leather couch in about 30 seconds. I live in a university town, so around about the end of May I can choose color, pretty much.


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1848049/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3AgooglePLA_UK_EN_ToolsSpanners_And_Sockets|Spanner_SetsPRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=&pla-492814522927&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!243856857536!!!g!492814522927!&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIi__G-YOE4AIVipztCh0DZw8WEAQYASABEgJeL_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds



They look ok..


----------



## mikeymustard (23 Jan 2019)

Gravity Aided said:


> The leather in question looks like upholstery leather, just look around for someplace where an old couch is being thrown out. That's what I've done in the past. I've been known to hop out of the car with a carpet knife and skin the back of an old leather couch in about 30 seconds. I live in a university town, so around about the end of May I can choose color, pretty much.


The 21st century hunter gatherer


----------



## raleighnut (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> They look ok..


The biggest one is 11mm - 7/16ths, that's about the only one you'll use, possibly the 3/8ths too.


----------



## biggs682 (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Off the cuff question.
> I have found nearly all my spanners don't fit the bike properly as they are all old sizes.. where can I get some proper old size spanners from?



Car boot sales


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> The biggest one is 11mm - 7/16ths, that's about the only one you'll use, possibly the 3/8ths too.



I was getting the gear cable out of the front derail and 8mm was too small a 10mm was too big and a 2 BA went on but was loose there was one spanner that just fitted but its not right. 
So it won't hurt to get some nice new spanners.


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Car boot sales



The boots sales down are way don't start till Easter and that's months away, we are well behind the times in our neck of the woods. 
PS Tank tops are still around. lol


----------



## Oldfentiger (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I was getting the gear cable out of the front derail and 8mm was too small a 10mm was too big and a 2 BA went on but was loose there was one spanner that just fitted but its not right.
> So it won't hurt to get some nice new spanners.


Are the mechs Shimano?
If so the the cable clamp nuts should be metric. 8mm iirc.


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

Oldfentiger said:


> Are the mechs Shimano?
> If so the the cable clamp nuts should be metric. 8mm iirc.


 
I've just been up the shed to look again and its a 300 ex and a 8mm is too small and the 10mm is too big.


----------



## Oldfentiger (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I've just been up the shed to look again and its a 300 ex and a 8mm is too small and the 10mm is too big.


Maybe it’s 9mm then 

Edit: Just been and checked. I have a similar mech and it’s 9mm.


----------



## raleighnut (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I was getting the gear cable out of the front derail and 8mm was too small a 10mm was too big and a 2 BA went on but was loose there was one spanner that just fitted but its not right.
> So it won't hurt to get some nice new spanners.


9mm fits.

EDIT - You beat mr to it @Oldfentiger


----------



## biggs682 (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I was getting the gear cable out of the front derail and 8mm was too small a 10mm was too big and a 2 BA went on but was loose there was one spanner that just fitted but its not right.
> So it won't hurt to get some nice new spanners.



so 9mm then is fairly norm on mechanism's


----------



## mikeymustard (23 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Off the cuff question.
> I have found nearly all my spanners don't fit the bike properly as they are all old sizes.. where can I get some proper old size spanners from?


Imperial sizes? I would've thought it's all metric.

Edit: Ah sorry didn't see the other replies


----------



## carpenter (23 Jan 2019)

Seeing as it's metric, these are very good (I bought a set some time ago):

https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-16-piece-wrench-set/p/096538212352200


----------



## midlife (23 Jan 2019)

Normally I'd shy away from Halfords but their pro spanner sets get a good rep, especially if on special offer. Mine have been going for 15 years plus.


----------



## Boon 51 (23 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Normally I'd shy away from Halfords but their pro spanner sets get a good rep, especially if on special offer. Mine have been going for 15 years plus.



Agreed I used to like my Halfords Pro spanners but as I was bringing them back to the UK from Malaga the cutoms seized them so that was them gone.. To say I was pissed off is an understatement. lol


----------



## raleighnut (24 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Agreed I used to like my Halfords Pro spanners but as I was bringing them back to the UK from Malaga the cutoms seized them so that was them gone.. To say I was pissed off is an understatement. lol


Did they think you were gonna try taking the plane apart in midair.


----------



## mikeymustard (24 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> Did they think you were gonna try taking the plane apart in midair.


Probably thought SI stood for Isis


----------



## Boon 51 (24 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> Did they think you were gonna try taking the plane apart in midair.



Well yes, that's what they did think. It was just after the 911 when you had trouble taking toothpaste through customs.


----------



## Oldfentiger (24 Jan 2019)

I lost a vernier calliper in similar circumstances.
They obviously wanted to avoid the risk of Murder by Measurement


----------



## Boon 51 (24 Jan 2019)

Oldfentiger said:


> I lost a vernier calliper in similar circumstances.
> They obviously wanted to avoid the risk of Murder by Measurement



Thinking back now and of course being a bit wiser I should of put all my tools in the suitcase but I was carrying them in hand luggage..


----------



## biggs682 (24 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Thinking back now and of course being a bit wiser I should of put all my tools in the suitcase but I was carrying them in hand luggage..



Reminds me of a time i came back from Lebanon via Cyprus in the mid 80's and i had all my hand tools in my case along with 3 weeks worth of dirty clothes and a young customs lady asked to search my case when i landed at Luton , once opened and she saw all the dirty clothes she decided it wasn't worth the hassle


----------



## mikeymustard (24 Jan 2019)

"This is a passenger announcement: if there is a mechanic or engineer on board, can they please make themselves known to a member of cabin crew. Thank you"!


----------



## Boon 51 (24 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> "This is a passenger announcement: if there is a mechanic or engineer on board, can they please make themselves known to a member of cabin crew. Thank you"!



But I've only got imperial not metric spanners..


----------



## raleighnut (24 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> But I've only got imperial not metric spanners..


You'd be OK on a Boeing Plane then.


----------



## Boon 51 (24 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> You'd be OK on a Boeing Plane then.



I would be alright as long as I can get my spanners through customs..


----------



## carpenter (24 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> You'd be OK on a Boeing Plane then.



I think it depends on which state the part was made in


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

Morning folks.. problem of the day.
I am trying to feed the brake cable through the crossbar as it is internal feed.
Now I tried was to end the old cable with the new then put a bit of Gorilla tape round and then push pull the cable through pulling the new cable along with it. But the old cable is so brittle it wont bend through the hole in the frame, so that's my idea out of the window so any other thoughts my friends.


----------



## Illaveago (25 Jan 2019)

Is it brittle just where it exits the tube or is there some which is still flexible?
Any pictures might help us think ?


Boon 51 said:


> I was getting the gear cable out of the front derail and 8mm was too small a 10mm was too big and a 2 BA went on but was loose there was one spanner that just fitted but its not right.
> So it won't hurt to get some nice new spanners.


Imperial ?


----------



## Illaveago (25 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Normally I'd shy away from Halfords but their pro spanner sets get a good rep, especially if on special offer. Mine have been going for 15 years plus.


I especially like their ratchet ring spanners! I've used them for years.
Halfords will usually replace broken tools with any bother.


----------



## biggs682 (25 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Morning folks.. problem of the day.
> I am trying to feed the brake cable through the crossbar as it is internal feed.
> Now I tried was to end the old cable with the new then put a bit of Gorilla tape round and then push pull the cable through pulling the new cable along with it. But the old cable is so brittle it wont bend through the hole in the frame, so that's my idea out of the window so any other thoughts my friends.



does the outer go all the way through or just in a small amount each end ?
if only a small amount each end then its worth trying to feed a new inner through before removing the old outer if that makes sense 
oh and have you ridden the Peugeot yet ????


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> does the outer go all the way through or just in a small amount each end ?
> if only a small amount each end then its worth trying to feed a new inner through before removing the old outer if that makes sense
> oh and have you ridden the Peugeot yet ????



Sorted. I did just as you posted I shorten the new cable by the the front brake length then cut the old cable as short as I could then put the new cable through both and it pulled it through. simples..
biggs your a star but I have not been out the the peegot yet?


----------



## biggs682 (25 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Sorted. I did just as you posted I shorten the new cable by the the front brake length then cut the old cable as short as I could then put the new cable through both and it pulled it through. simples..
> biggs your a star but I have not been out the the peegot yet?



Will send the bill by post , I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT


----------



## mikeymustard (25 Jan 2019)

If the outer is too brittle try this:
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=#&ved=2ahUKEwjZotL1y4jgAhUKRhUIHbZjDw4QwqsBMAJ6BAgJEAU&usg=AOvVaw0VTJzWxrN8ZFOD4xbU2nov&cshid=1548407815471

Edit: too late again!


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

biggs682 said:


> Will send the bill by post , I CAN'T BELIEVE THAT



You better hurry up with the bill as I'm moving house to get a bigger garage..


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

Not my day today.. Next problem.

I have just fitted the 105 calipers to the bike and bung the wheels in and would you believe 3 of the brake blocks fit the rims and the 4th is short by nearly half inch. So what's that all about. FFS


----------



## carpenter (25 Jan 2019)

not sure what you mean - can you take a photo?


----------



## biggs682 (25 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> You better hurry up with the bill as I'm moving house to get a bigger garage..



Can you buy one nearer to me please so i can share the extra space



Boon 51 said:


> Not my day today.. Next problem.
> 
> I have just fitted the 105 calipers to the bike and bung the wheels in and would you believe 3 of the brake blocks fit the rims and the 4th is short by nearly half inch. So what's that all about. FFS



what how don't understand , have you got the caliper square on the frame ?


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

Like this


----------



## biggs682 (25 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Like this



Can't see a lot from that picture and the caliper seems to be central 

side on picture


----------



## nonowt (25 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Like this


is that not because the brake cable isn't fitted? the tension from the cable will balance the left side with the right.


----------



## youngoldbloke (25 Jan 2019)

Isn't there a fine adjustment screw on the top right (non cable side) just behind the visible allen bolt that will sort that out?


----------



## carpenter (25 Jan 2019)

You have the quick release lever (left hand side) in the open position. Push lever down then adjust cable tension and brake position - loosen Allen screw bolt that fixes to brake bridge, rotate brake body until brake blocks are equidistant from rims then tighten to frame. Hope this helps, it looks like you have limited drop on the brakes, have you removed the wheel and put it back on in a different position?


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

Sorry guys its been manic.. If you look chain side the bit that the blocks slide up and down is longer than the near side, so the brake block is on the tyre and not lower down on the rim.

The drop is longer chain side.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> You have the quick release lever (left hand side) in the open position. Push lever down then adjust cable tension and brake position - loosen Allen screw bolt that fixes to brake bridge, rotate brake body until brake blocks are equidistant from rims then tighten to frame. Hope this helps, it looks like you have limited drop on the brakes, have you removed the wheel and put it back on in a different position?



The drop as you say is longer one side than the other so three are right and one is wrong, if that makes sense.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

Here's a better photo.


----------



## midlife (25 Jan 2019)

Has somebody built the calliper out of two different brakes?


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Has somebody built the calliper out of two different brakes?



That's what I have been thinking all day, I keep looking at it. I have sent a message to the ebayer I got it from but as yet no reply.


----------



## youngoldbloke (25 Jan 2019)

Have you tried the adjustment screw? Turn it one way and then the other and see what the effect. You may need a longer drop calliper.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

youngoldbloke said:


> Have you tried the adjustment screw? Turn it one way and then the other and see what the effect. You may need a longer drop calliper.



Not yet but I will have a look now.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

Here's one on ebay and the top one that has different lengths..


----------



## carpenter (25 Jan 2019)

I have had similar when I started doing up bikes - have you put the QR lever in to the down position, released the cable and rotated the brake?
I can't see any reason why someone would try to put different drop brake callipers together - unless they like the smell of burning rubber


----------



## carpenter (25 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Here's one on ebay and the top one that has different lengths..
> 
> View attachment 448966



When pulled up in tension they would be fine.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

@youngoldbloke .. Just been up there and had a look but I can't see an adjustment screw.


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

carpenter said:


> I have had similar when I started doing up bikes - have you put the QR lever in to the down position, released the cable and rotated the brake?
> I can't see any reason why someone would try to put different drop brake callipers together - unless they like the smell of burning rubber



There are no cables in place yet but the front brake are ok..


----------



## youngoldbloke (25 Jan 2019)

Here's service instructions for similar callipers https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-T-25A-000-00-ENG.pdf showing the centring adjustment screw. Link to Shimano tech docs here: https://si.shimano.com/#/


----------



## Boon 51 (25 Jan 2019)

youngoldbloke said:


> Here's service instructions for similar callipers https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-T-25A-000-00-ENG.pdf showing the centring adjustment screw. Link to Shimano tech docs here: https://si.shimano.com/#/



My heads bagging now so I will have another go tomorrow, but I will connect the brake cable up tomorrow and see if that makes any difference.
Cheers


----------



## raleighnut (26 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Like this


You've fitted the caliper 'On The Piss' misaligned


----------



## youngoldbloke (26 Jan 2019)

Those 105 callipers are short reach. I suggest that just by chance the front calliper happens to fit OK, but that your old frame requires a longer reach rear calliper. I don't think 105s came in a long reach (?). R450, 451, 650 maybe? 47 - 57mm drop


----------



## Boon 51 (26 Jan 2019)

youngoldbloke said:


> Those 105 callipers are short reach. I suggest that just by chance the front calliper happens to fit OK, but that your old frame requires a longer reach rear calliper. I don't think 105s came in a long reach (?). R450, 451, 650 maybe? 47 - 57mm drop



That's what I thought last night while watching pool on u tube. So I went on ebay and got some almost new Exage 47/57 calipers which will do the trick, so I will stick the others back on ebay tomorrow. 
Still its all a learning curve for me so grateful for all your help.


----------



## Boon 51 (26 Jan 2019)

raleighnut said:


> You've fitted the caliper 'On The Piss' misaligned



If only it was that simple..


----------



## Boon 51 (26 Jan 2019)

As most of the bike is stripped down how easy would it be to take the BB out and re grease and what tools would I need. The bloke at the bike shop said he would re grease the BB for a tenner?


----------



## midlife (26 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> As most of the bike is stripped down how easy would it be to take the BB out and re grease and what tools would I need. The bloke at the bike shop said he would re grease the BB for a tenner?



Bargain


----------



## biggs682 (26 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> As most of the bike is stripped down how easy would it be to take the BB out and re grease and what tools would I need. The bloke at the bike shop said he would re grease the BB for a tenner?



That would get my vote all day long


----------



## Gravity Aided (26 Jan 2019)

Easy to re grease a BB,.
Hard to deal with it if anything at all goes wrong.
Take the deal. 
We all have BB stories. 
Better to learn those black arts on a discard 
rubbish bike you have no need for, or attachment to.


----------



## Gravity Aided (26 Jan 2019)

You need special tools, too. More than 10 quid worth of tools.


----------



## Boon 51 (26 Jan 2019)

Gravity Aided said:


> You need special tools, too. More than 10 quid worth of tools.



It is peanuts without all the worries, I will take it to him on Tuesday, plus it will give me time to clean the wheels.


----------



## 12boy (27 Jan 2019)

Unless you have an animus against using nonperiod parts my preference would be to have the LBS guy stick in a cartridge BB instead of rebuilding the old one. He will have the old one so as to match spindle length exactly and you wont have to deal with it again, or at least for many years. The only tool you will need is an 8mm allen wrench and some 8 mm allenbolts to attach the crank arms. Be sure to get a long allen wrench made for those bolts because unless they are tight any slop will trash the square female part of the crank arm that goes on the spindle. Just my opinion.


----------



## mikeymustard (27 Jan 2019)

12boy said:


> Unless you have an animus against using nonperiod parts my preference would be to have the LBS guy stick in a cartridge BB instead of rebuilding the old one. He will have the old one so as to match spindle length exactly and you wont have to deal with it again, or at least for many years. The only tool you will need is an 8mm allen wrench and some 8 mm allenbolts to attach the crank arms. Be sure to get a long allen wrench made for those bolts because unless they are tight any slop will trash the square female part of the crank arm that goes on the spindle. Just my opinion.


not that you should have any problems with your bb after it's been cleaned up, but if I had to crack it open, I'd swap it for a cartridge too. Will the lbs guy let you sit in on the session? Useful learning experience!


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> not that you should have any problems with your bb after it's been cleaned up, but if I had to crack it open, I'd swap it for a cartridge too. Will the lbs guy let you sit in on the session? Useful learning experience!



The lbs chap said it would be £10 for a re grease and £30 for a new BB but I don't know if he would let me sit in which I would love to do. I know the guy at the other bike shop would let me watch and learn?
I could go and see the second shop and ask what he would charge?
But I was thinking that a re grease would fix things but would I be doing enough mileage to warrant a new BB as I have another Raleigh bike and a third on the way?
But I would like to learn? mmmmm


----------



## raleighnut (27 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> The lbs chap said it would be £10 for a re grease and £30 for a new BB but I don't know if he would let me sit in which I would love to do. I know the guy at the other bike shop would let me watch and learn?
> I could go and see the second shop and ask what he would charge?
> But I was thinking that a re grease would fix things but would I be doing enough mileage to warrant a new BB as I have another Raleigh bike and a third on the way?
> But I would like to learn? mmmmm



Depending on the age of the bike it may have a Raleigh threaded BB fitted not a standard BSA threaded one.


----------



## mikeymustard (27 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> The lbs chap said it would be £10 for a re grease and £30 for a new BB but I don't know if he would let me sit in which I would love to do. I know the guy at the other bike shop would let me watch and learn?
> I could go and see the second shop and ask what he would charge?
> But I was thinking that a re grease would fix things but would I be doing enough mileage to warrant a new BB as I have another Raleigh bike and a third on the way?
> But I would like to learn? mmmmm


if the spindle is worn you won't have much choice but to bin, and I'd be surprised if at least the bearings (prob on a bike of this age they'd be caged) didn't need replacing. 



raleighnut said:


> Depending on the age of the bike it may have a Raleigh threaded BB fitted not a standard BSA threaded one.


I'd say standard all the way on this one, which reminds me, @Boon 51 have you dated the bike yet?


----------



## youngoldbloke (27 Jan 2019)

Isn't that a Biopace chainset? That would date it sometime after 1983 - early 90s if original equipment. Shimano bottom bracket too?


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

I have just made a bit of a cock up as this thread is about my Raleigh bike but in fact I should have put this on the other thread about 1980s bikes as it is about my Peugeot 351 bike.
So sorry for the mix up?


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

There are two sets of numbers on the Peugeot bike and they are..
8104570 and CT156 ETKE both stamped on the frame by the BB.


----------



## midlife (27 Jan 2019)

Ah, might be a French bottom bracket? They are 68 mm shell but both sides are clockwise thread with a wider distance between the bearings than UK

Italian 70 mm ones go in iirc, but it's been a long time and the old memory can play tricks ........


----------



## youngoldbloke (27 Jan 2019)

Anyway …….. after looking back at the photo of the Raleigh I reckon it is actually a Pro Race from around 1992. Reynolds 501.


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> Ah, might be a French bottom bracket? They are 68 mm shell but both sides are clockwise thread with a wider distance between the bearings than UK
> 
> Italian 70 mm ones go in iirc, but it's been a long time and the old memory can play tricks ........



I have just looked a y tube video and all he used that I haven't got is the BB remover and the big looped spanner for undoing the BB.


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

youngoldbloke said:


> Anyway …….. after looking back at the photo of the Raleigh I reckon it is actually a Pro Race from around 1992. Reynolds 501.



As I read your post I went and had a look at the numbers on the bottom of the bike and they are.. 4260886.


----------



## midlife (27 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have just looked a y tube video and all he used that I haven't got is the BB remover and the big looped spanner for undoing the BB.









Handing this over to the Lbs just got easier lol


----------



## Gravity Aided (27 Jan 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I have just looked a y tube video and all he used that I haven't got is the BB remover and the big looped spanner for undoing the BB.


Assuming all goes well.


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

midlife said:


> View attachment 449282
> 
> 
> Handing this over to the Lbs just got easier lol



Luv it... lol


----------



## mikeymustard (27 Jan 2019)

Well, if it is indeed a French bb then hoping to get away with grease isn't such a bad shout, and 30 spuds to replace is cheap


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> Well, if it is indeed a French bb then hoping to get away with grease isn't such a bad shout, and 30 spuds to replace is cheap



These rates might be mates rates as he was the guy that sold me the Pug in the first place.


----------



## 12boy (27 Jan 2019)

As far as the peugot goes, velo orange sells french thread and universal 68 mm cartridge bearing bottom brackets if you can't find one there. Since you are apparently infected with the tinkering disease I would suggest you buy some tools of your own...chain breaker, cone wrenches, 32/ 34 and 36/ 38 headset wrenches, a crank arm puller, a cartridge bearing bottom bracket tool, an 8mm allen wrench and some spoke wrenches. Good to have a chain whip and a shimano tool to dissamble freehubs. Most chainwhips nowadays have the hook wrench used for old style bottom brackets. With these and some allen wrenches, a decent pump and regular wrenches plus tire irons you can do almost anything you need to. After you get all this, then you need a nice chest with drawers to organize all the extra bits you will accumulate, bins for old bars, cranksets, stems, brakes and levers, pedals....
Or, find a co-op that allows folks to use their tools. Welcome to your new addiction!


----------



## Boon 51 (27 Jan 2019)

12boy said:


> As far as the peugot goes, velo orange sells french thread and universal 68 mm cartridge bearing bottom brackets if you can't find one there. Since you are apparently infected with the tinkering disease I would suggest you buy some tools of your own...chain breaker, cone wrenches, 32/ 34 and 36/ 38 headset wrenches, a crank arm puller, a cartridge bearing bottom bracket tool, an 8mm allen wrench and some spoke wrenches. Good to have a chain whip and a shimano tool to dissamble freehubs. Most chainwhips nowadays have the hook wrench used for old style bottom brackets. With these and some allen wrenches, a decent pump and regular wrenches plus tire irons you can do almost anything you need to. After you get all this, then you need a nice chest with drawers to organize all the extra bits you will accumulate, bins for old bars, cranksets, stems, brakes and levers, pedals....
> Or, find a co-op that allows folks to use their tools. Welcome to your new addiction!



I do have a fair amount of tools its the specialised bits that I'm lacking but I suppose I should make a list of what I need?
cheers


----------



## 12boy (27 Jan 2019)

After buying a bunch of these tools I made a suitcase like box with a place for them, so when I open it up like a book I have can see my tools. If I visit someone to work on their bikes it is easy to close up the box, which is about 6 inches deep closed and then maybe 14 x 20 inches. Of course I have acquired some more tools which I hang up off shelves above my bench in the bicycle shed. This situation reminds me of my friend who liked to say....Never bitch if your wife wants you to fix something. This is an excuse to buy more tools. Forgot to mention another tool, a cable/cable housing cutter. Really nice to snip off bits of cable and shortening housing quickly and cleanly.


----------



## Boon 51 (1 Feb 2019)

Put this in the wrong thread doh..

Got a problem.
Just fitting the rear brake back on the bike and its jamming.
If your standing at the back of the bike looking at the saddle the left hand brake is locked on to the wheel rim. I have loosened it and turned the caliper clock wise then re tightened but the left brake just locks on to the wheel?
Got any ideas?


----------



## Gravity Aided (1 Feb 2019)

Wheel centered in the frame? BTW, Aldi make a nice toolkit, at least in the States, ours are made by Bikemate. I've used mine for a couple of years. Bike repair stand is not bad, either.


----------



## Boon 51 (1 Feb 2019)

Gravity Aided said:


> Wheel centered in the frame? BTW, Aldi make a nice toolkit, at least in the States, ours are made by Bikemate. I've used mine for a couple of years. Bike repair stand is not bad, either.



I have a nice Parktool pro bike stand its a good bit of kit. 

Thought I would take the bike down to Chris and he had a look and he said did I have a spring adjuster for the brakes I said no ( didn't know there was one ) 
Anyway he had one so he done it for me and he checked all the bike over the gears, steering, brakes, everything and must of spent nearly an hour on it and charged me £15.00 for a complete bike check.. His comment was if this was your first attempt you had it just about spot on, because all I have done is just very small adjustments here and there.
He did ask if I was selling the bike so I asked him what he thought it was worth, he said £200 at least perhaps £250 . my total outlay was about £140 but that's with new tyres, cables, brakes and brake levers etc.
Very pleased..


----------



## carpenter (2 Feb 2019)

Chris sounds like an excellent chap, definitely worth supporting a local bike shop (also good to hear that you got it all about right - well done).

Not really local, but Madgets in Diss have been very helpful. I took a frame in recently for a respray and they were good enough to true a wheel for me while I went for a quick drink - no charge for the wheel.


----------



## Boon 51 (2 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> Chris sounds like an excellent chap, definitely worth supporting a local bike shop (also good to hear that you got it all about right - well done).
> 
> Not really local, but Madgets in Diss have been very helpful. I took a frame in recently for a respray and they were good enough to true a wheel for me while I went for a quick drink - no charge for the wheel.



Its nice to get good service from a bike shop as it makes life a bit easier some times.
I was well pleased with my bike i'm just waiting to get a Brooks saddle of ebay and some bar tape and I will post some pictures.


----------



## Boon 51 (15 Feb 2019)

So after several weeks of great fun we now have the finished bike. The top one being the original.


----------



## biggs682 (15 Feb 2019)

@Boon 51 looks good are you happy with it ?

To please the fussy one's put the front release in the other way round so that the lever is on the left hand side


----------



## Oldfentiger (15 Feb 2019)

biggs682 said:


> @Boon 51 looks good are you happy with it ?
> 
> To please the fussy one's put the front release in the other way round so that the lever is on the right hand side


Of course you mean the left hand side


----------



## biggs682 (15 Feb 2019)

Oldfentiger said:


> Of course you mean the left hand side



Just testing


----------



## Boon 51 (15 Feb 2019)

biggs682 said:


> @Boon 51 looks good are you happy with it ?
> 
> To please the fussy one's put the front release in the other way round so that the lever is on the left hand side


 Dam I didn't see that, will sort it out tomorrow, with my comments.


----------



## raleighnut (16 Feb 2019)

Nice 

I'd have the handlebars rotated forward though so the tops were level but that's just my preference.


----------



## Illaveago (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> So after several weeks of great fun we now have the finished bike. The top one being the original.
> 
> View attachment 452608
> View attachment 452609
> ...


Is this a "Spot the Difference ?" Competition ? If so I have spotted 2 so far ! 


Looks nice .


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

Illaveago said:


> Is this a "Spot the Difference ?" Competition ? If so I have spotted 2 so far !
> 
> 
> Looks nice .



First is the original the second in black and white is for fun and the others are the updated bikes.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

raleighnut said:


> Nice
> 
> I'd have the handlebars rotated forward though so the tops were level but that's just my preference.



As in a conventional bike do you mean.


----------



## raleighnut (16 Feb 2019)

My normal hand position is 'on the bend' of the bars as shown by the wear on my bar tape.

I must get round to re-wrapping them


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

raleighnut said:


> View attachment 452654
> 
> 
> My normal hand position is 'on the bend' of the bars as shown by the wear on my bar tape.
> ...


 
Funny you should say that but when I did a test ride it didn't feel right, so I will move them to a more normal position.. Ta


----------



## raleighnut (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Funny you should say that but when I did a test ride it didn't feel right, so I will move them to a more normal position.. Ta


My 'rule of thumb' is that when I'm on the drops my wrists are straight, the Carlton even has the tops slightly 'up' to achieve that.


----------



## SkipdiverJohn (16 Feb 2019)

raleighnut said:


> My normal hand position is 'on the bend' of the bars as shown by the wear on my bar tape.



That's how I like to ride drop bar bikes too, which is why I'm a big fan of Weinmann suicide levers. Unfortunately my current drop bar bike hasn't got suicides, so I'm now on the lookout for a cheapo donor so equipped to rob for parts.


----------



## Illaveago (16 Feb 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> That's how I like to ride drop bar bikes too, which is why I'm a big fan of Weinmann suicide levers. Unfortunately my current drop bar bike hasn't got suicides, so I'm now on the lookout for a cheapo donor so equipped to rob for parts.


Ooh! Treading on dangerous ground there ! 

Before you know it you will feel sorry for the donor bike and the whole process will start all over again !


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

raleighnut said:


> My 'rule of thumb' is that when I'm on the drops my wrists are straight, the Carlton even has the tops slightly 'up' to achieve that.
> 
> View attachment 452656



I see what you mean the bars would be ok like yours but the levers would need to be a tad more on the bend of the bars to suit me. I'm glad you pointed that out about the bars as I could of ended up with a bad back.


----------



## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

Illaveago said:


> Ooh! Treading on dangerous ground there !
> 
> Before you know it you will feel sorry for the donor bike and the whole process will start all over again !



This is what learning is all about, may be sometime in the future I might be able to give advice.


----------



## SkipdiverJohn (16 Feb 2019)

Illaveago said:


> Ooh! Treading on dangerous ground there !
> Before you know it you will feel sorry for the donor bike and the whole process will start all over again !



I know what you mean, so I'm aiming to pick up the nastiest example of a low-end "racer" I can find - so long as it's ultra cheap and has the bits I want on it. I'm deliberately going to avoid anything too decent that I might be tempted not to scrap. A 70's/80's "catalogue quality" machine would be ideal. Its rather unfortunate that high quality drop bar bikes rarely came equipped with suicides, they seem mostly confined to the low-end models, yet for those of us who aren't racers and like to ride in an upright position, they are very useful additions.


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## Illaveago (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> This is what learning is all about, may be sometime in the future I might be able to give advice.


Just look at the positives !
You will be gaining more experience. 
You may be saving the planet.
You will also reduce the wear on your other bikes by alternating which one you ride from time to time.


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## raleighnut (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I see what you mean the bars would be ok like yours but the levers would need to be a tad more on the bend of the bars to suit me. I'm glad you pointed that out about the bars as I could of ended up with a bad back.


I'd just get em comfy for yourself, personally I don't know how some people ride clutching the brake levers instead of the handlebars (on the hoods)  but there you go


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## EltonFrog (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> This is what learning is all about, may be sometime in the future I might be able to give advice.



Your Raleigh looks FAB. 

I learned a lot doing up that old Tour de France, it was most enjoyable and the folks here were brilliant with their help and advice.


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## raleighnut (16 Feb 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> I know what you mean, so I'm aiming to pick up the nastiest example of a low-end "racer" I can find - so long as it's ultra cheap and has the bits I want on it. I'm deliberately going to avoid anything too decent that I might be tempted not to scrap. A 70's/80's "catalogue quality" machine would be ideal. Its rather unfortunate that high quality drop bar bikes rarely came equipped with suicides, they seem mostly confined to the low-end models, yet for those of us who aren't racers and like to ride in an upright position, they are very useful additions.


The secondary levers could be bought as a kit, you simply removed the pivot pin and replaced it with one that was threaded to take them. What annoys me is the 'roofing bolt' that they use, pig ugly doesn't come close.


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

Illaveago said:


> Just look at the positives !
> You will be gaining more experience.
> You may be saving the planet.
> You will also reduce the wear on your other bikes by alternating which one you ride from time to time.



I tried to explain to my wife why I must have more than 5 bikes and it was hard work but I have just sold the two I had on CC for sale so I can go and buy more now and perhaps slip another bike in as well while she's out shopping.
PS. Saving the planet sounds good fun.


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

CarlP said:


> Your Raleigh looks FAB.
> 
> I learned a lot doing up that old Tour de France, it was most enjoyable and the folks here were brilliant with their help and advice.



Agreed the guys on here have been brilliant..


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## mikeymustard (16 Feb 2019)

biggs682 said:


> @Boon 51 looks good are you happy with it ?
> 
> To please the fussy one's put the front release in the other way round so that the lever is on the left hand side


...and the pedals should be in line with one of the frame angles for the photo - tsk tsk


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

Are these right..


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## midlife (16 Feb 2019)

http://www.croydoncyclist.co.uk/taking-a-picture-of-your-bicycle/


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## carpenter (16 Feb 2019)

Shame that the bikes taken as examples are butt ugly


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> Shame that the bikes taken as examples are butt ugly




Ha Ha..


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## EltonFrog (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Are these right..
> 
> 
> View attachment 452775
> View attachment 452776


I think that bike looks ACE.


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

CarlP said:


> I think that bike looks ACE.



Thanks @CarlP I'm well pleased with how its turned out. I just have one thought I have to get another Brooks Swift saddle and I'm wondering if a brown saddle might look better than the black?


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## EltonFrog (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Thanks @CarlP I'm well pleased with how its turned out. I just have one thought I have to get another Brooks Swift saddle and I'm wondering if a brown saddle might look better than the black?


Black. The Swift is a good saddle, got one my Trek. What’s wrong with the saddle that’s on there? It looks the part.


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

CarlP said:


> Black. The Swift is a good saddle, got one my Trek. What’s wrong with the saddle that’s on there? It looks the part.


 
I was thinking of the hoods colour that's all.


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## EltonFrog (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> I was thinking of the hoods colour that's all.


I don’t think the brown will match the brown of the hood, keep it black


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

CarlP said:


> I don’t think the brown will match the brown of the hood, keep it black


 
A second opinion always helps I will keep the black.


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## EltonFrog (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> A second opinion always helps I will keep the black.



What is the saddle that’s on it?


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

CarlP said:


> What is the saddle that’s on it?



Its a Brooks Swift, got it off ebay mate


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## roadrash (16 Feb 2019)

it would be cheaper to replace the hoods to match the saddle than the other way around


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## EltonFrog (16 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Its a Brooks Swift, got it off ebay mate


I thought so.


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## Boon 51 (16 Feb 2019)

roadrash said:


> it would be cheaper to replace the hoods to match the saddle than the other way around



Never thought of doing it that way round. lol I will keep it as it is for a while and see where we go.


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## raleighnut (17 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Are these right..
> 
> 
> View attachment 452775
> View attachment 452776


Whatever is comfortable for you is 'right', does the bike feel better to ride?


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## Boon 51 (17 Feb 2019)

raleighnut said:


> Whatever is comfortable for you is 'right', does the bike feel better to ride?



The bike is lovely to ride but not been more then a mile on it, if I have any doubts its going to the the stand over height which is 800mm and that might be its down fall.


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## carpenter (17 Feb 2019)

Too big or too small?


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## Boon 51 (17 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> Too big or too small?



Too big.
The other bikes I've got apart from the Raleigh I went and measured this morning and had a bit of a shock.
1/ Evans Arkose 52cm
2/ Giant TCR pro 1 50cm
3/ Cannondale Quick 1 48cm.
4/ Raleigh 54cm 
The stand over height's are all about the 760mm but could be less with no problem's ( Raleigh 800mm ). so a 750mm would give me a 2 inch lower crossbar if my adding up is right?


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## youngoldbloke (17 Feb 2019)

IF the saddle height in your photos is correct for you, the stand-over should be fine. The bike looks good set up as is. *IDEA* - stand over the bike and see!


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## Boon 51 (17 Feb 2019)

youngoldbloke said:


> IF the saddle height in your photos is correct for you, the stand-over should be fine. The bike looks good set up as is. *IDEA* - stand over the bike and see!



Just taken the bike out for about 30 mins and did a couple of 10% hills on the 52 and 42 front rings and all seems perfect and I did stop a few times just to see how the cross bar was and that seems just about ok the bike has an 800mm cross bar but that's my limit.
So a good result on the bike really.


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## 12boy (17 Feb 2019)

I like brown...honey saddle, gum hoods, cork bar plugs and tan handlebar tape. Wouldn't mind tan sidewalls either. Probably isn't, but seems more old fashioned to me, like sepia photos. Looks good the way it is, too.


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## carpenter (17 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Too big.
> The other bikes I've got apart from the Raleigh I went and measured this morning and had a bit of a shock.
> 1/ Evans Arkose 52cm
> 2/ Giant TCR pro 1 50cm
> ...



smaller Y fronts or higher heels?


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## Boon 51 (17 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> smaller Y fronts or higher heels?



Yay.... now ya talkin.


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## Boon 51 (18 Feb 2019)

I was thinking of a Brooks Cambuim saddle, would look good on are older bikes do you think?


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## carpenter (18 Feb 2019)

Have a look at Rivet Diablo? (about to use one on my Parkes ).

http://rivetcycleworks.com

good advice on fitting here:

https://www.carradice.co.uk/products/rivet-saddles


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## Boon 51 (21 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> Have a look at Rivet Diablo? (about to use one on my Parkes ).
> 
> http://rivetcycleworks.com
> 
> ...




Would you run the same size as a Brooks ?


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## carpenter (21 Feb 2019)

Just looked up the Cambium c17 (they seem to do a few different models) it has a width of 164mm:

https://www.brooksengland.com/en_uk/saddles/cambium/cambium-c17-all-weather-brown.html

The Diablo has a width of 150mm. 


But width, or looks are not the be all and end all. My experiences:
Brooks B17 has a width of 176mm - I have on of these on my Carpenter, which I tend to ride in a more upright position, this saddle is very comfortable now but it took a lot of adjusting the angle, height and distance from the bars to hit a "sweet spot" for me.
I really like the Charge Spoon for my other bikes - width 145mm (Hell of a difference!) It hasn't needed as much adjustment as the B17, or maybe I am getting better at setting up?
The Diablo I bought on a whim (also half price on eBay for a barely used one). I have not had much experience of using it yet (it's now on my Parkes and I plan to have a ride on it tomorrow) but hope it will be as comfortable as the Spoons as the size is very close.

Not sure if the ramble above helps - trouble with saddles is that comfort has to be the final decider, but there are very limited (if any) opportunities to try for a few miles before you buy.

edit: just remembered, Spa cycles do some leather saddles (which I think could look good on your bike) at about half the price of Brooks/Rivet.


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## mikeymustard (22 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> edit: just remembered, Spa cycles do some leather saddles (which I think could look good on your bike) at about half the price of Brooks/Rivet.


I occasionally ride a friend's bike with a cambium. They're pretty comfy but quite abrasive (and cos they're quite rough they're difficult to move around on, if this a thing you do.
Spa saddles are very well thought of and cro mo railed ones are only £42 currently - I've paid that for a used Brooks!


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## mikeymustard (22 Feb 2019)

Or how about a bit of Texan subtlety?


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## wonderdog (22 Feb 2019)

mikeymustard said:


> Or how about a bit of Texan subtlety?
> View attachment 453876


Hey y'all. This ain't Texan! Where are the goddamn tassels ... and the holster for the sidearm???? Sheeeesh!


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## Boon 51 (22 Feb 2019)

carpenter said:


> Just looked up the Cambium c17 (they seem to do a few different models) it has a width of 164mm:
> 
> https://www.brooksengland.com/en_uk/saddles/cambium/cambium-c17-all-weather-brown.html
> 
> ...



This is very interesting to me as for the guy that's just starting out it must be a nightmare. I did read somewhere that you increase the size on the Brook saddle by 20 to 30 mm so a 140 could be a 160mm or one 170mm and that has worked for me as my Brook Pro is 160mm and my normal bike saddle is a 140mm I was just thinking do you increase the same on a Cambium? 
I will have a look on ebay for a Diablo and see whats about.


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## Illaveago (22 Feb 2019)

midlife said:


> http://www.croydoncyclist.co.uk/taking-a-picture-of-your-bicycle/


I liked pictures 3 and 4 .


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## mikeymustard (22 Feb 2019)

wonderdog said:


> Hey y'all. This ain't Texan! Where are the goddamn tassels ... and the holster for the sidearm???? Sheeeesh!


Well in a quite literal sense it definitely is Texan!
But I'm sure there's something tastelessy texan enough on the site to persuade you


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## 12boy (22 Feb 2019)

If you get into this a bit more I have found cable housing by the foot is a better deal. I always replace cable and housing unless they are obviously new. Jagwire has some brake cabling that combines spiral wrapping ( as with brakes) with staight wires (as with derailleurs) which might work for both. This type really made a diiference for my Brompton`rear brake which takes a convoluted path and which I could not get to return properly even after stripping, cleaning and rebuilding the brake. BTW, Tressostar makes nice brown cloth tape which when shellacked will last for years at a fraction of the cost of leather. If you like a little cushion you can apply it over cheap pseudo cork tape.


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## Boon 51 (26 Feb 2019)

Well at long last I was able to take the refurbished Raleigh out for its first ride I did a short 25 klm just to see how things went. The result was amazing its as smooth as my newer bikes and all you can hear is a bit of tyre noise. Brilliant just brilliant.


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## Illaveago (26 Feb 2019)

Boon 51 said:


> Just taken the bike out for about 30 mins and did a couple of 10% hills on the 52 and 42 front rings and all seems perfect and I did stop a few times just to see how the cross bar was and that seems just about ok the bike has an 800mm cross bar but that's my limit.
> So a good result on the bike really.


There are various ways of overcoming the stand over height. Lean the bike over slightly when you get on or off and bring your foot which you use to set off with up. It has the effect of shifting your important bits off centre avoiding the crossbar.


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## Boon 51 (26 Feb 2019)

Illaveago said:


> There are various ways of overcoming the stand over height. Lean the bike over slightly when you get on or off and bring your foot which you use to set off with up. It has the effect of shifting your important bits off centre avoiding the crossbar.



Leaning the bike over is what I have been trying out with good results, its just thinking about it first but it will come as second nature after a while?


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