# What mtb is best



## skinny man0903 (29 Dec 2007)

I was wondering what is the best mountain bike around £200, just to start out with.


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## bonj2 (29 Dec 2007)

second hand giant xtc off ebay.


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## punkypossum (29 Dec 2007)

The decathlon rockrider and carrera kraken (or vulcan - can't remember, the cheapest anyway) got the best reviews in the Bike Supermarket challenge thing in WMB if you want a new one... The GT Aggressor always seems to do well...


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## spandex (29 Dec 2007)

have a look at the 07 Spech Rockhopper or the Giant Rincon, Boulder.

try and keep away from halfords at that price range.


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## mickle (30 Dec 2007)

Hold yer horses. Wait till you can afford to send at least twice that and then decide. There isn't a good mountainbike at 200 quid.


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## Dave5N (30 Dec 2007)

Not everyone has £400. Please don't tell them they can't ride because they can't afford a bike you approve of.


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## mickle (30 Dec 2007)

Bollecks Dave5N. A sub 200 quid bike doesn't qualify as a mountainbike. It might look like one, it might have the same sized wheels but it aint a real one. 

It might take the OP a couple or more months to make up the difference but it will be worth it.

Please don't advise people on subjects you don't understand.


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## bonj2 (30 Dec 2007)

Yes it does. You can get some mountain bikes for £200 which are fine, and will in all probability do all the OP wants it to do just as well as one that is a lot more expensive, but will carry the added benefit of being less of a theft target and therefore he'll be less worried about taking it out where he's going to need to leave it - and so unless he's a real enthusiast, that will result in him using it a lot more and therefore getting much more out of cycling, and will subsequently result in him being more likely to BECOME an enthusiast. Idiot. I thought you were tasked with _encouraging_ people to get into cycling? Not putting them off by making them feel they're out of their depth or that they should be getting something way out of their league!


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## Dave5N (30 Dec 2007)

mickle said:


> Bollecks Dave5N. A sub 200 quid bike doesn't qualify as a mountainbike. It might look like one, it might have the same sized wheels but it aint a real one.
> 
> It might take the OP a couple or more months to make up the difference but it will be worth it.
> 
> Please don't advise people on subjects you don't understand.



So your (unqualified, perhaps?) advice is: don't ride a bike until you can afford one I approve of?


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## Dave5N (30 Dec 2007)

mickle said:


> Bollecks Dave5N. A sub 200 quid bike doesn't qualify as a mountainbike. It might look like one, it might have the same sized wheels but it aint a real one.
> 
> It might take the OP a couple or more months to make up the difference but it will be worth it.
> *
> Please don't advise people on subjects you don't understand.*



How would _you _know what I understand about cycling?


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## mickle (30 Dec 2007)

Dave5N said:


> So your (unqualified, perhaps?) advise is: don't ride a bike until you can afford one I approve of?



I think you'll find much the same advice wherever you find experienced mountainbikers. Buy the best bike you can afford. If that means you have to wait a few weeks then wait. I've met enough people who bought sh!t cheap bikes who later regretted spending too little to know that I'm talking the truth. 

Bums on seats Dave, bums on seats. I want people to ride bikes but a 200 quid bike isn't a real mountainbike. A city bike for 200 quid? just about possible. A mountainbike? Sorry, no.


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## Dave5N (30 Dec 2007)

Where did you learn this sh1t?

Do you have any coaching experience or cycling qualifications or senior level records to substantiate your misguided ramblings?


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## barq (30 Dec 2007)

I think the crucial question is where will the bike be used? Are we talking trails and singletrack or bridleways and towpaths?

My advice would be to look towards the entry level bikes offered my the major MTB manufacturers. Trek and Specialized offer their cheapest models for around 200 quid (have a look at Evans to get a sense of the price range). If you can stretch to spending more you will get a better bike (sorry, statement of the bleedin' obvious , but worth thinking about).


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## mickle (30 Dec 2007)

Dave5N said:


> Where did you learn this sh1t?
> 
> Do you have any coaching experience or cycling qualifications or senior level records to substantiate your misguided ramblings?



And your qualifications Mr Clever?


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## Dave5N (30 Dec 2007)

Well, for starters I am qualified as a BCF cycling coach.


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## Dave5N (30 Dec 2007)

> * Please don't advise people on subjects you don't understand.*


I think you just ruled out at least every other post on this and every other forum.

The point is that we share ideas, not write to one high and mighty expert.


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## palinurus (30 Dec 2007)

What sort of use do you want to put it to Skinnyman?

S/H is probably the way to go if £200 is your budget.


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## mickle (30 Dec 2007)

Dave5N said:


> I think you just ruled out at least every other post on this and every other forum.
> 
> The point is that we share ideas, not write to one high and mighty expert.



Ok, pardon me for being rude. I retract the quoted suggestion that you don't know what you are talking about. That was the Champagne talking. Theres no excuse for rudeness and I apologise unreservedly.

However, and this is of course just my opinion, I don't think it's possible to buy a real, new, adult mountain-bike for 200 pounds. Sterling House will sell you a full sus 26" wheeled mountain-bike style bike for 50 quid, is that a real mountain-bike? If not then exactly where do you draw the line? 100? 150? 199? 

I draw the line at around 350 quid. I've met very many people who bought cheap mountain-bikes, got totally into the sport and then regretted not spending more money on their first bike. You cant upgrade a Palomar and make it anything more than a heavy, cheap Palomar with upgrades. Once a boat anchor always a boat anchor. If skinnyman spends 200 quid, really gets into it and realises that 400 quid will get him a lighter, better performing and more reliable bike that 200 quid will have been wasted. It will cost him 600 quid to get a 400 quid bike.

Apologies for the lack of a pound sign on this keyboard!


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## bonj2 (30 Dec 2007)

Depends on your definition of 'mountain bike'. I can completely empathise with your use of the term as something that you can _go mountain biking_ on - but some people use the term to mean any bike that's just able to deal with kerbs, gravel etc better than a road bike, and that's all they want it for.
Not that I'm condoning the bargain basement bin halfords fulls sussers, they're mainly for posing chavs what with their utterly pointless dual crown forks.
I'm more thinking along the lines of the bottom of the line decathlon hardtails/rigids. If you're not a serious MTBer and you're not going to be, but want a basic utility bike and you don't want to worry about gravel, canal path debris, kerbs, etc then the cheaper end of the decathlon range which have no rear suspension and either basic single crown short travel or even rigid forks can be picked up easily for £200 and will probably sort this sort of cyclist fine.


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## skinny man0903 (30 Dec 2007)

barq said:


> I think the crucial question is where will the bike be used? Are we talking trails and singletrack or bridleways and towpaths?
> 
> My advice would be to look towards the entry level bikes offered my the major MTB manufacturers. Trek and Specialized offer their cheapest models for around 200 quid (have a look at Evans to get a sense of the price range). If you can stretch to spending more you will get a better bike (sorry, statement of the bleedin' obvious , but worth thinking
> about).


possible start of with bridleways and towpaths then may consider singletrack and trails


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## RedBike (31 Dec 2007)

I'm not reading through all this thread so forgive me if this has been posted before. 

At £200 forget all about rear suspension, disc brakes fancy triple clamp forks etc. Look for a damped front fork (if you can find one at that level) and a good frame to upgrade later. For smooth bridleways and towpaths you're almost better off with no suspension at all, although you'll really appreciate a good suspension fork when you start to ride more adventurous terrain. 




> possible start of with bridleways


 I would try riding a few man made trail centers (and possibly hiring a bike while your there). If you stay clear of the black level runs you shouldn't come across anything too nasty; and there's nothing stopping you walking any bit you're unsure about!

If your not into the sort of riding trail centers have to offer then you might be better off with a hybrid. Hybrids wont cope with rough ground as well but they're a lot easier/quicker on the road/ smooth stuff.


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## Zoiders (2 Jan 2008)

Second hand rigid steel

Early/mid 90s

A do it all bike, plus you may end up keeping it and buying new running gear instead of a shiney new one, rockhoppers are nice from that period if you find one, ridgebacks, saracens, the raliegh M Trax in reynolds steel is good as well

Its a case of finding one


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## User482 (3 Jan 2008)

I second the suggestions to look for a used bike. £200 will get you something fairly decent, whereas you'll only get a very basic model new, that wouldn't be worth upgrading the parts on if you got more into the sport. Look for well known brand names such as Specialized, Giant, Marin etc and you shouldn't go too far wrong. Just make sure it ain't stolen!


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## skinny man0903 (5 Jan 2008)

They have a bike to work scheme where I wok and we can spend upto £1000 in the price that includes accessories. What accessories would i need


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## skinny man0903 (5 Jan 2008)

plus I wouldn't buy from halfords. I am quite happy with the LBS I have always bought from


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## simonali (5 Jan 2008)

Zoiders said:


> Second hand rigid steel
> 
> Early/mid 90s
> 
> ...



I have a £1000 Marin from that era and I wouldn't regard it as a £200 s/h buy, I'd say it was virtually worthless to anyone except me. The frame looks like it might snap at any minute it's so rotten, but I still love the old girl!


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## simonali (5 Jan 2008)

That chain looks rusty, doesn't it?!

That old bike still has it's original brakes, headset, shifters, derailleurs, cranks, BB, bars and 2 inner chainrings on it.


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## Ludwig (13 Jan 2008)

I have a £200 Trek and regularly ride the mountain and forest trails up to 2500ft in Mid Wales. The roads are very potholed, stoney and steep at times and don't have any problems. It has front suspension, an alu frame, 2inch tyres and with a 48, 38, 28 toothed front ring it has considerable road speed and would be ideal for touring as well. 
With huge automated mass manufacturing plants and modern lazer metal cutting technology it is almost possible to get a decent mtb for close to a £100. This should be possible if they can now make a car in India for less than £1300.


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## Muddyfox (14 Jan 2008)

I picked up a 2nd hand Giant Terrago Disc (hydraulic) for £250.00 in my local Bike Shop that had only ever been ridden on the road for 10 months but the guy traded it in on a proper road bike but bargains like these are few and far between but it's always worth looking 

If i had £200.00 to spend on a brand new bike i think i'd go for the Mongoose Tyax Elite which is on sale at Evans (ok ok it's £229.00) 

Or if you can stretch to another £100.00 have a look at the Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc

Simon


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## fisha (15 Jan 2008)

Skinny man, the mountain bike aspect very roughly breaks down in 3 areas of value and think is similar to the way road bikes break down by category.

*sub £350 bikes:*
These are the basic end of the market ranging from the supermarket no-name ones upto the very entry level bikes from what i would call mainstream makes such as trek, giant, specialized etc. 

The more you pay in this range, the more you get, but it'll always be the basic end kit. By that I mean that the general components will work fine, but wont necessarily last as well compared to higher spec models. I have a supermarket bike in the garage, and one thing i notice is the front cranks and chain rings. Under hard pedalling, i can feel the crank the twist a little. On my more expensive bikes, they dont. 

I'd personally say that if you can afford it, then the £200 to £350 range is certainly beter value than then sub £200 range. For example, this Giant bike is £300 and includes mechanical disc brakes. I have a pal who bought one a couple of years ago, and loves it. The frame is decent quality and components have lasted well for him. Thats just an example, but to me .... saving that extra hundred pounds would be worth it. 

Any suspension in this area will work as in it'll go up and down a bit, but it wont necessarily last all that long. It'll also be heavy, especially compared to a non-front suspension bike. 

*£350 to £1000 bikes*
This I would say is the sweet spot of mountain bikes and value. Its definitiely the case that the more you spend the more you get. 

That extra that you get comes in a variety of aspects. The frames get better, lighter, more advanced. The components get better, lighter and longer lasting. the wheels and hubs are lighter ( makes a noticable difference ) and the bearing qualities much improved. 

Also, you'll start to get into very good quality front suspension and brakes. 

*£1000+ bikes
*I consider this where you start to see diminishing returns. The more you spend here, the less you get. Lighter components, but much more expensive cost ... perhaps just to save a few grams here and there.

--------------------------------------------
*Brakes*

Hugely emotive subject. 

V brakes: They do a damn good job, esp in the dry. In the wet, just like a road bike, the performance suffers. In the wet and mud, then it is possible to go through pads and rims at a quicker rate, but with your uses, i dont think that would be tooo much of an issue

Mechanical disc brakes.
The first step up from V-brake ( just ). Bluntly, mech discs and good v-brakes overlap in terms of their performance. A very good v-brake will outperform a very basic mech disc brake. the benefit of disc brakes is though that they are less affected by the wet and mud from offroading bikes, and in general do offer better stopping power and to me a more confident feel. 

Hydraulic disc brakes
The business. They are a considerable step from V-brakes and mechanical discs. If you go for agood brand name like shimano, then even the basic Deore hydraulic discs are outstanding in terms of braking power. 

The down side to discs is that if you dont already have the hubs, then the hubs need to be disc-hubs in that they have mounting holes to attach a disc onto them. Some basic bikes may come with non-disc hubs. So perhaps an aspect to consider. 


---------------------------------------------
So what do i think you should do ?

Well, you've mentioned your budget. As I already said, if you could save just a little bit more, then I think you may get more. 

If its something that you'd like to keep for a while, then I would place most priority on the frame. Try and get the bike with the best frame that you can. 

Mountain bikes are very modular, and its easy to add better components to them as and when your older components wear out. through all this, the frame largely remains unchanged, so out of all the bits you want to last, the frame is the most important.

So whats a good frame ? all the same things that make a good frame on a bike. Good quality tubing and welding, internal butting etc. Features to allow extras added. I'd be looking to get a frame which will allow you to add disc brakes at a later date ( if not fitted already ), that way it gives you the option at a later date.

Do I think you need front suspension ? No if its bridleways and towpaths. If you fit a large tyre on the mountain bike ( 2" to 2.3" ) , then that tyre offers a good amount of suspension in its own right. Actually, probably better than a very basic front fork ( which will weigh a lot ).


I really suggest you talk to the bike shop a little more, perhaps with these thoughts in mind:


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## Muddyfox (15 Jan 2008)

Very well summed up Fisha 

My Giant Terrago is at the top of the entry level MTB's @ £425.00 (New) and the only things that let the bike down are the stock tyres and the Suntour fork but these can be upgraded quite easily 

If you think the MTB bug will kick in and you think you'l want to start upgraded parts on the bike then you need to buy the best frame you can afford 

Simon


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## goo_mason (16 Jan 2008)

The Carrera Vulcan was voted Best Budget Bike in the 'What Mountain Bike' Magazine Awards 2007.

"This bike could genuinely run competitively with a lot of £500 bikes, making it an absolute bargain for half that price."

I got mine for £250, so you don't HAVE to spend a fortune to get a halfway decent bike, Mickle. Or are the What MTB reviewers mistaken ?


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## fisha (17 Jan 2008)

A few years ago, i thought /suspected that carrera's bike frames were influenced by or were hand-me-down early designs or budget versions of higher spec frames from the likes of Merida and Kona. 

Looking at some of the detailings, designs and finish of the frames between the Carrera and the likes from Merida and Kona, they were uncanily similar. If that were the case, then if the fundamental geometry is similar to higher specced bikes, then the basic carreras are onto a good design. 


I know that Halfords take a bit of a bashing, which normally comes from the sales teams and service/knowledge you get in stores, but i have to admit when I've strolled around the bikes, i've been quite impressed by them over the last few years. They've come out with bikes which on a good number of occasions i've though " thats actually quite a nice bike, and good value ".



Admittedly, i like fettling with bikes to keep them running, so dont mind upkeep to avoid having to take it to the store for adjustments and repairs. But if i was wanting a budget bike complete, then one of the first choices, for me, would actually be Halfords.


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## ratty2k (17 Jan 2008)

If you go on either Bikeradar or uk-mtb, you will find the Carrera bikes are pretty well thought of.
You can get a pretty good MTB for £200, but as with most things the more you pay the better it will be. If you can stretch a bit further (OP) on the budget, do so.


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## mary-jane (29 Jan 2008)

this one-http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KONA-CINDER-CONE-STORED-FOR-LAST-5-YEARS-COLLECTORS_W0QQitemZ270206581776QQihZ017QQcategoryZ33503QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## simonali (29 Jan 2008)

Nice. A massive link to a sold bike!


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## mary-jane (29 Jan 2008)

you're welcome!
sorry,I meant to demonstrate the sort of thing that I think is the best value for money.


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## fishheads (8 Feb 2008)

Well what would i get for £400. also your £200 could goto £400 on cycle to work scheme??


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## Ludwig (20 Feb 2008)

There is a lot of badge snobbery and nonsense spoken about mountain bikes. For £200 - £300 you can get a superb machine for general use. And £500 a high tech suspension model with an ultra strong lightweight frame.


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## mickle (21 Feb 2008)

Ludwig said:


> There is a lot of badge snobbery and _nonsense_ spoken about mountain bikes. _For £200_ - £300 you can get a _superb_ machine for general use. And _£500_ a high tech suspension model with an ultra _strong_ _light_weight frame.



Sorry you're wrong. £200 does not buy 'superb' whichever way you look at it. Please show me an example of a '£500/ high-tech'/ ultra-strong/ light/ suspension bike because I don't believe it's possible. I fear you may be talking out of your behind. 

As Keith Bontranger once said regarding cycle components; 'Light/strong/cheap, choose two'.

And what pray tell is wrong with being a label queen? Go ahead and ride your Emelle/ Universal/ Raleigh/ Concept/ Sterling-House Sunday Suppliment Special all you like but don't try to convince anyone its a real mountain-bike.


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## barq (21 Feb 2008)

I basically agree with Mickle. Some brands are overpriced for what they offer (Santa Cruz spring to mind), but I don't think that is an argument for leaping the other way and going entirely 'non-brand'. I sympathise with the concern about snobbery, not least because some branded gear is manufactured by the same people who knock out the generic stuff. But we can't loose perspective here... £500 for a full suspension bike ain't gonna be pretty.

The Bontrager triangle (light, strong, cheap - pick two) is spot on.


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## simonali (22 Feb 2008)

barq said:


> £500 for a full suspension bike ain't gonna be pretty.



_Full_ suspension wasn't mentioned! You can get a nice bike with suspension forks for £500 however.


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## RedBike (22 Feb 2008)

> There is a lot of badge snobbery and nonsense spoken about mountain bikes. For £200 - £300 you can get a superb machine for general use. And £500 a high tech suspension model with an ultra strong lightweight frame.



I suppose it all depends on what you mean by general use and superb. But IMO you need to be looking at about the £1000 mark for a hardtail and about £2000 for a duel suspension bike before you get to the superb level.

Although half of that will get you a good (but not superb) MTB


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## Cycling Naturalist (24 Feb 2008)

My first mtb was a cheapo which disintegrated under my youngest son (then a reckless 19 year old) going over a cattle grid at speed.


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## yello (24 Feb 2008)

My 90's (Avanti Barracuda) steel framed hard tail is still going strong in the guise of a tourer!

The Claude Butler Cape Wrath (in it's various specs) is a pretty decent buy with good reviews. You could do worse. Discount Cycles in SE London knock them out fairly cheaply too. They look a dodgy outfit to some (though I know nothing to suggest that they are!) so you might want to trundle around there first and/or pay at the gate!

Review of the Cape Wrath D27


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## Bald Eagle (5 Mar 2008)

Call in at your local cycle shop pal and see if they have a good second hand one. Got my first that way for just a bit more than 200 and it served me well for a couple of years till i could find out just wot i needed and could afford. A good quality bike (even second hand) will make your early cycling days much better no matter wot make it is.


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## col (5 Mar 2008)

It all depends on the type of cycling your going to do.My carrera vulcan,has served me well,allbeit with a new sealed crank for twenty quid,just after getting it,for a few years,and that was with it being in the shed for a lot of that.Im not going to enter competitive races,so im very happy with mine.


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## rp24 (6 Mar 2008)

*what bike?*

Regardless of how much money you have to spend, the best option is always to find a bike shop where they really know what they are talking about! Of all the ones I know, there is a local family run place where they will want to know what you want to do with your bike, then help you to decide about suspension, frame size, etc.. Try a test ride or 6, to find a bike that you like. Then you can go looking on ebay for an affordable one, or wait to afford a new one. I ride with enthusiasts off road, and my bike is not an expensive one, but does the job. Its a great ride on & off road, Claud Butler Urban 200. Front suspension, Aloy frame, looks good, 260 quid new. Look lots before spending the hard earned! All the best.


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## mickle (6 Mar 2008)

Yeah, waste the valuable time of a small independent cycle shop worker then spend your money elsewhere. Don't whinge when your local bike shops close down, you'll have no-one to blame but yourself.


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## bonj2 (7 Mar 2008)

rp24 said:


> Regardless of how much money you have to spend, the best option is always to find a bike shop where they really know what they are talking about! Of all the ones I know, there is a local family run place where they will want to know what you want to do with your bike, then help you to decide about suspension, frame size, etc.. Try a test ride or 6, to find a bike that you like. Then you can go looking on ebay for an affordable one, or wait to afford a new one. I ride with enthusiasts off road, and my bike is not an expensive one, but does the job. Its a great ride on & off road, Claud Butler Urban 200. Front suspension, Aloy frame, looks good, 260 quid new. Look lots before spending the hard earned! All the best.



Cock.



mickle said:


> Yeah, waste the valuable time of a small independent cycle shop worker then spend your money elsewhere. Don't whinge when your local bike shops close down, you'll have no-one to blame but yourself.



but a cycle shop's a company and all companies have obviously got _infinite_ money - everybody knows that


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## oldgitofkent (17 Apr 2008)

*Cheap bike*

I agree you should send as much as poss to get the best bike you can afford. On that note i read the write up on the rockrider for £300 which you can no longer buy new. I got one ridren once for £200. Use it for singletrack, general off road no jumps Found forks to be a little soft but on the whole it does the job well. I know spend more get better but dont have the cash. Love the move to disc brakes from rim much much better stopping in the mud


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