# MTB chain cleaning



## PaulSecteur (12 Apr 2014)

Hi,

On my road bikes I "mickle method" the chains and it works well.

However, on my MTB despite the chain, cassette and chainwheel looking clean there is a definite grittiness to it after it has been mickled. On closer inspection there is still a fine sand on the inside of the chain plates.

Im thinking that for the MTB as it will be cleaned after each ride it will be worth getting a chain cleaner tool and degreaser and using a cheap lube (Currently using finish line Teflon that I use on my road bikes, but that will get expensive with regular MTB rides and re-lubing after each ride).

So.... Should I just mickle or degrease and re-lube after each ride? Or any other suggestions?

Thanks for your thoughts, Paul.


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## Trull (12 Apr 2014)

Its a losing battle keeping a chain clean on an mtb, but I'd go for the degreaser/chain cleaner and give it a dose of hose to get the worst off and then use a wet lube, frequently applied and wiped off the maintain lube. It would be great to run a rohlolf with a completely enclosed drive...


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## Cubist (14 Apr 2014)

I use dry ceramic lube, although there are cheaper dry lubes available. This prevents as much grit adhering to the lubed chain in the first place. When cleaning the bike I simply run the chain through a sponge in the same car shampoo I clean the bike with, rinse it with the hose, let it dry, use a bit of GT85 to disperse the water and then let that dry before relubing. If there is grit on the inside of the plates after that, well a few therapeutic minutes with some cotton buds sorts that out.

There really is no need to degrease a chain.


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## mickle (14 Apr 2014)

Mickle more.


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## Jody (14 Apr 2014)

I use something similar to Cubist but a paraffin based lubricant recommended by someone on here. Nowhere near as much dirt sticks to it as normal and what sticks is easily washed off by a sponge or low power hose. It only lasts for around 60-70 miles in bad conditions but I won’t be riding that far in one go.


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## PaulSecteur (14 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> I use something similar to Cubist but a paraffin based lubricant recommended by someone on here. Nowhere near as much dirt sticks to it as normal and what sticks is easily washed off by a sponge or low power hose. It only lasts for around 60-70 miles in bad conditions but I won’t be riding that far in one go.



Could you tell me what brand that is? Sounds like what Im after.


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## Jody (14 Apr 2014)

White lightening clean ride.


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## PaulSecteur (14 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> *White lightening* clean ride.



I was almost off to the office license!


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## Shadowfax (14 Apr 2014)

Don't wash Don't lube buy cheap chains job done ! My friggin' chains cost less than some of yous lots lubes.

Grin.


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## I like Skol (14 Apr 2014)

It's an MTB! Ride it, ride it, ride it some more. Wash it off with a hose, let it dry, add some oil. Then guess what......... ride it again.

Let me cut through all the b*llsh1t. The moment you splash through that first crappy puddle or blast down that dusty, sand strewn trail, your chain gets covered in a big dose of reality and you are back to square one. All the time you spent painstakingly removing the grime, link by link, with a cotton bud will be wasted.

Don't be too precious about your MTB, save that obsession for your best road bike


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## Cubist (15 Apr 2014)

My obsession is for the MTBs. The Ibis is worth about five times my best road bike! 
The whole point of dry ceramic lube is that you can keep it sparkly with minimal effort.


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## Jody (15 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Don't wash Don't lube buy cheap chains job done ! My friggin' chains cost less than some of yous lots lubes.



How often do you change them? Seems a bit of a false economy and especially if the wear is sped up by not doing any preventative maintenance.

I would rather look after the groupset than splash out £180+ for a prematurely worn one.


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## Shadowfax (15 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> How often do you change them? Seems a bit of a false economy and especially if the wear is sped up by not doing any preventative maintenance.
> 
> I would rather look after the groupset than splash out £180+ for a prematurely worn one.


 I would rather ride them than look at them ta.


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## Jody (15 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> I would rather ride them than look at them ta.



Presumptuous. Obviously people who look after their bikes don't ride them?


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## I like Skol (15 Apr 2014)

OK children, settle down. It isn't a competition or a 'them'v'us'. If someone wants their bike to look showroom that's ok and is nothing to do with the amount they ride or bike handling skills they have. All I'm saying is that, thinking about it logically, if you are going to ride your bike through the crap then having a clean chain might make a difference for the first 10 seconds.


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## raleighnut (15 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> White lightening clean ride.


White Lightening also do a degreaser which fits onto one of those chain cleaning machines but I only use that on my 10 speed chain (Sram hollow pin- cost me over £30) the rest of my bikes get a low power hosing and a similar technique to Mickle but with chainsaw oil.


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## Shadowfax (15 Apr 2014)

Water washes more crap in than it washes out, lube attracts crap its not rocket science.


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## Shadowfax (15 Apr 2014)

For the life of me I cannot understand why anybody would pay over £30 for a mtb chain.

Madness


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## mickle (15 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> For the life of me I cannot understand why anybody would pay over £30 for a mtb chain.
> 
> Madness


Why the hell not? Most people spend three times that on a tank of petrol without batting an eyelid.


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## PaulSecteur (15 Apr 2014)

This is going to be one of those threads where someone eventually, inevitably is accused of being "worse than Hitler".


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## Cubist (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> For the life of me I cannot understand why anybody would pay over £30 for a mtb chain.
> 
> Madness


And I can't think for a moment why I should ride an old clunker for the sake of some uber-rad form of inverse snobbery. Own and ride what the hell you want to your own expectations and standards and enjoy yourself.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Cubist said:


> And I can't think for a moment why I should ride an old clunker for the sake of some uber-rad form of inverse snobbery. Own and ride what the hell you want to your own expectations and standards and enjoy yourself.


 Touchy.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Just for the record-

Roadies -- Sit at home all evening polishing and mickling their chains.

Mtbers -- Sit in the pub all evening chatting with their mates.

As I have the time for neither I now have a hybrid !


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## Motozulu (16 Apr 2014)

The correct answer that you are looking for is 'Squirt' dry lube. All my bikes are on it now, you can use it through the winter too. No more grimy grinding paste on the chain - quick hose down and the chain gleams again. in summer dry time you only need apply it every 2 or 3 rides. Really really can't speak highly enough about the stuff.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> Presumptuous. Obviously people who look after their bikes don't ride them?


Not at all, my husband is just like you, spends hours cleaning and ogling. His friggin race bike is hanging up in the workshop, has not been used in anger for at least 5 or 6 years. It still comes down for a service though. "For Gods sake get a grip man ! Here's a tea towell get on with some drying up."
Seeing how you lot are so good at cleaning and polishing ? One would hope you take a leading role using the same skills around the home. Fat Chance !

Give him his due though he does clock up a few miles a year.

Rant Over.


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## Jody (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Not at all, my husband is just like you, spends hours cleaning and ogling. His friggin race bike is hanging up in the workshop, Seeing how you lot are so good at cleaning and polishing ? One would hope you take a leading role using the same skills around the home. Fat Chance !.



Glad you know me so well. In reality your view is the polar opposite of the truth.


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## Cubist (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Touchy.


No, I'm not touchy at all, but I absolutely hate the way folk spout drivel about who should ride what, where and how, based solely on their own experience and means. I give advice where I can, but would never presume to criticise anybody based on their choice of kit. Not so many years ago on this forum there was a sort of apologists' race to the bottom if anyone ever dared to suggest that your off road experiences would be better if you got yourself a light, well equipped quality bike fit for purpose and designed to do the sort of riding you wanted to do. There was even one poster who used to insist that there was absolutely no need to get anything more than a budget hardtail, and spend the rest of your budget on road tyres lights and panniers so you could ride it to work. In today's market that means a lot of beginners will,find themselves on bikes with crap geometry, under damped forks, wrestling oversized, overweight monstrosities around difficult routes because someone told them what they should be riding based on ridiculous stereotypes. 

The truth is that up to a point you get what you pay for. A bike equipped with decent components is a joy to ride. It's light, looks good and the kit does what it should do. It costs money to own or build, so why advocate neglecting it so you can sound cool?


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## raleighnut (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> For the life of me I cannot understand why anybody would pay over £30 for a mtb chain.
> 
> Madness


The 10 spd Sram Hollowpin is on my 20 spd all Campagnolo 653 time trial bike ( Reynolds 653 frame set) my MTBs are all 21 speed and get hosed/lubed as normal i.e they do not see the chain cleaning/degreasing device.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Cubist said:


> No, I'm not touchy at all, but I absolutely hate the way folk spout drivel about who should ride what, where and how, based solely on their own experience and means. I give advice where I can, but would never presume to criticise anybody based on their choice of kit. Not so many years ago on this forum there was a sort of apologists' race to the bottom if anyone ever dared to suggest that your off road experiences would be better if you got yourself a light, well equipped quality bike fit for purpose and designed to do the sort of riding you wanted to do. There was even one poster who used to insist that there was absolutely no need to get anything more than a budget hardtail, and spend the rest of your budget on road tyres lights and panniers so you could ride it to work. In today's market that means a lot of beginners will,find themselves on bikes with crap geometry, under damped forks, wrestling oversized, overweight monstrosities around difficult routes because someone told them what they should be riding based on ridiculous stereotypes.
> 
> The truth is that up to a point you get what you pay for. A bike equipped with decent components is a joy to ride. It's light, looks good and the kit does what it should do. It costs money to own or build, so why advocate neglecting it so you can sound cool?


 Hang on who has said anything about what you ride ? You seem to have some sort of complex about it all.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

raleighnut said:


> The 10 spd Sram Hollowpin is on my 20 spd all Campagnolo 653 time trial bike ( Reynolds 653 frame set) my MTBs are all 21 speed and get hosed/lubed as normal i.e they do not see the chain cleaning/degreasing device.


 Good point if it was not for the followers of fashion we would all still be riding around on 7 speed and paying a lot less for the privilege of doing so.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> Glad you know me so well. In reality your view is the polar opposite of the truth.


 Which view would that be ?


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## Cubist (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Hang on who has said anything about what you ride ? You seem to have some sort of complex about it all.





Shadowfax said:


> Good point if it was not for the followers of fashion we would all still be riding around on 7 speed and paying a lot less for the privilege of doing so.



Well I hate to say it, but you have just managed to prove my point pretty succinctly.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Motozulu said:


> The correct answer that you are looking for is 'Squirt' dry lube. All my bikes are on it now, you can use it through the winter too. No more grimy grinding paste on the chain - quick hose down and the chain gleams again. in summer dry time you only need apply it every 2 or 3 rides. Really really can't speak highly enough about the stuff.


 Never had grimy grinding paste with a dry chain.

Wink.


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## Jody (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Which view would that be ?





Shadowfax said:


> Not at all, *my husband is just like you*, spends hours cleaning and ogling............
> *Seeing how you lot are so good at cleaning and polishing* *? One would hope you take a leading role using the same skills around the home. Fat Chance !*
> .


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Cubist said:


> Well I hate to say it, but you have just managed to prove my point pretty succinctly.


 Unfortunately your monologue came before that quote and i still have not commented on what you ride, what is your problem ?


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Oh sorry i thought you were going to come up with some earth shattering evidence to back up your views on bike care.

Dissapointed.


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## Shadowfax (16 Apr 2014)

Anyway Ive got the kids to sort horses to do then a ride hopefully. Line up your posts and I'll try a nd deal with them next time I'm in. Have fun.

X


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## MartinQ (16 Apr 2014)

PaulSecteur said:


> This is going to be one of those threads where someone eventually, inevitably is accused of being "worse than Hitler".



You (OP) started it, you invaded ...


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## I like Skol (16 Apr 2014)

Am I in before the thread gets locked?


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## Jody (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Line up your posts and I'll try a nd deal with them next time I'm in.



Please don't. Its becoming tedious!


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## Cubist (16 Apr 2014)

Jody said:


> Please don't. Its becoming tedious!


Don't worry. If she didn't get it the first time round I'm not wasting my time any more trying to explain. I'm off to ride my carefully maintained hard earned bike with its quality modern components to a standard I enjoy, knowing that it won't let me down.


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## Motozulu (16 Apr 2014)

Shadowfax said:


> Never had grimy grinding paste with a dry chain.
> 
> Wink.




I have - even on dry dusty rides with a wet lubed chain the dust becomes grinding paste - with squirt - not so.


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## Smurfy (21 Jul 2015)

I'm going to try White Lightening Clean Ride.


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## Ciar (23 Jul 2015)

Depends where i ride, but if it's swinley it's gritty or epping depending on weather it's a mudfest eat your bike or dry and dusty, get home hose bike then use large sponge type object and water clean by dry chain and oil, stick in shed lock rinse repeat, it's a mtb and it gets dirty if it was to stay clean that often i would be worried! 

currently it's having a new bb chainset and front brake fitted as it's been eaten alive by the winter weather ;-)


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## Crackle (10 Aug 2015)

I put some lube on when I see rust on it. Is that bad?


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## Tin Pot (10 Aug 2015)

PaulSecteur said:


> Hi,
> 
> On my road bikes I "mickle method" the chains and it works well.
> 
> ...



I'm afraid to clean my MTB, the pedals kept falling off until I sank into some clay and has been good ever since.

I'll buy another when it completely seizes up.

In your place though, I would only mickle it if it was in dire straits.


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## Gixxerman (18 Aug 2015)

I have a powerlink. It is a quick job to remove the chain with one fitted. I then tie a piece of string to the end link and then drop the chain in a plasitic bottle. I then put some white spirit in the bottle (parafin / diesel will also work). With the end of the string protruding from the top of the bottle, I put the bottle top back on trapping the string so that I it easier to retrieve the chain from the bottle later on. I then agitate / shake the bottle. This nicely removes any crap off the chain. I then retrieve the chain from the bottle using the string and hang it up to dry. Try not to shake the bottle too vigorously as this can cause the chain to develop kinks and make removing it from the bottle troublesome - or alternatively, you can use a bottle with a wider top. Refit the chain and lubricate as normal. Or if you have the time, you can place the chain in a tray and soak it in lube overnight. I use a cutdown plastic container as a tray.


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## mickle (18 Aug 2015)

Gixxerman said:


> I have a powerlink. It is a quick job to remove the chain with one fitted. I then tie a piece of string to the end link and then drop the chain in a plasitic bottle. I then put some white spirit in the bottle (parafin / diesel will also work). With the end of the string protruding from the top of the bottle, I put the bottle top back on trapping the string so that I it easier to retrieve the chain from the bottle later on. I then agitate / shake the bottle. This nicely removes any crap off the chain. I then retrieve the chain from the bottle using the string and hang it up to dry. Try not to shake the bottle too vigorously as this can cause the chain to develop kinks and make removing it from the bottle troublesome - or alternatively, you can use a bottle with a wider top. Refit the chain and lubricate as normal. Or if you have the time, you can place the chain in a tray and soak it in lube overnight. I use a cutdown plastic container as a tray.



Great. What do you with the now contaminated volatile chemical solvent?


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## Milkfloat (18 Aug 2015)

Just shove it in the dishwasher.

note: I am not responsibly for what the wife says or any problems that may occur to the chain or dishwasher as a consequence.


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## I like Skol (18 Aug 2015)

Milkfloat said:


> Just shove it in the dishwasher.
> 
> note: I am not responsibly for what the wife says or any problems that may occur to the chain or dishwasher as a consequence.


Do I have to take the wheels off for this or are larger dishwashers available?


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## Milkfloat (18 Aug 2015)

I like Skol said:


> Do I have to take the wheels off for this or are larger dishwashers available?


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## Tin Pot (18 Aug 2015)

Why do you have wheels on your dishwasher?


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## raleighnut (18 Aug 2015)

mickle said:


> Great. What do you with the now contaminated volatile chemical solvent?


If you leave the bottle for a week or so the contaminate sinks to the bottom and the clean solvent can be decanted off to be reused. The residue makes a really good bonfire lighting liquid.


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## I like Skol (18 Aug 2015)

raleighnut said:


> The residue makes a really good bonfire lighting liquid.


I pour all my old car engine oils, cleaning solvents and brush cleaner type flammable liquids into a big 5gal drum and the local MOT garage takes it off my hands to run his workshop heater in the winter. Everyone is happy and nothing naughty goes down the drain


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## Gixxerman (18 Aug 2015)

I like Skol said:


> I pour all my old car engine oils, cleaning solvents and brush cleaner type flammable liquids into a big 5gal drum and the local MOT garage takes it off my hands to run his workshop heater in the winter. Everyone is happy and nothing naughty goes down the drain


I do the same thing and give it to the garage and he takes it off my hands for a small fee. What he does with it I have no idea. But I assume that he has to dispose of it / recycle it in an environmentally safe manner.


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## mickle (18 Aug 2015)

I like Skol said:


> I pour all my old car engine oils, cleaning solvents and brush cleaner type flammable liquids into a big 5gal drum and the local MOT garage takes it off my hands to run his workshop heater in the winter. Everyone is happy and nothing naughty goes down the drain




Oh, ok. You give it to someone who sets fire to it. Is this a good thing? Have you considered the environmental impact of setting fire to a cocktail of assorted chemicals?


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## mickle (18 Aug 2015)

'Assume'...


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## Gixxerman (19 Aug 2015)

mickle said:


> 'Assume'...


I think that it is reasonable assumption as they do vehicle oil changes regularly and they are a legitimate garage. I think any proper car garage business would have to meet certain environmental commitments with regard for disposal of hazardous waste.


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