# North Coast 500



## steveindenmark (3 Apr 2016)

I am just looking at the North Coast 500 route. The route looks great across to the West coast from Inverness and the along the top to JOG. But the only option then are the A99 and the A9 back to Inverness. 

I dont know much about the A99 but the A9 does not have a good write up for cyclists. But once you come off the A99 it doesnt look as though you have any option but to use the A9 for a long way South.

From JOG to Inverness is 195km using the A99/A9. Going back to the A836 Crask Inn road from JOG and then onto Inverness is 248km and extra 53km. This is the option I would take as the road and scenery looks much more pleasant for cycling. Much safer than the A9.

I am not a purist and would be happy to call it my North Coast 500 and a bit.

Has anyone ridden it? Or has anyone got comments about the roads I have mentioned.

If I do it it would probably be in May, if that makes a difference with the traffic.


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## Pro Tour Punditry (3 Apr 2016)

The A9 section which gets the most "bad press" is the bit between Perth and Inverness, and the bit over Kessock (which this route does not take).

I have cycled the A9 north of Inverness and it's been ok - the most NE-ly section from Thurso to Wick is probably the least enjoyable and I would be tempted to miss that out and cut at Thurso, head south past Halkirk then rejoin the route at Latheron (which will make it not quite 500) and then south of Golspie head inland towards Lairg and then take a right turn at Ardgay and rejoin the route again between Alness and Evanton (which should make up and add a wee bit more to the "lost" section)

A few of my mates have ridden the proper route and there were no adverse reports re any of the sections in relation to other road users being a problem.

I'm sure others will be a long soon to tell you I am wrong


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## mmmmartin (3 Apr 2016)

I rode the A9 to JoG and it was unpleasant - hilly, narrow, lots of lorries.
The Crask Inn is worth a big detour to visit, assuming it still operates as an inn and has not been sold/closed. It wasup for sale this time last year. 
You could trace your steps along the north coast, turn south to the Crask Inn and get the train southwards from Tain, this would give you the best bits. And it's downhill all the way from the Crask Inn.


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## snorri (3 Apr 2016)

The Thurso to Latheron route suggested by Marmion is named the Causeway Mire which as the name suggests appeals mainly to admirers of peat bogs (and wind turbines!), much more scenic following the Caithness coast.IMV

Meanwhile, regarding JoG to Inverness, I would be surprised if the A99 section between JoG and Latheron caused you any concerns, particularly in May which is before the tourist season starts.
South of Latheron the road does get a bit busier and the 70km section to Loch Fleet cannot be avoided without a lengthy detour.
There would be little pleasure gained in cycling the A9 from Tain to Inverness, but there are alternatives and you can rejoin NC500 at Dingwall.
It depends on your taste.


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## steveindenmark (4 Apr 2016)

I was sent this by Dickie who is doing the 500 as I type.

This route makes sense.

https://www.plotaroute.com/routeplayer/153800


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## Ticktockmy (5 Apr 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> I was sent this by Dickie who is doing the 500 as I type.
> 
> This route makes sense.
> 
> https://www.plotaroute.com/routeplayer/153800


I rode that route a few years ago, but from Mull of Ode, I headed along the A832 to Milton then followed a minor road along the northern shore of the beauly Firth to North Kessock then into Inverness.


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## Ajax Bay (5 Apr 2016)

If the OP (Steve) wants to avoid the A9 back down from JoG to Inverness, then, in the late afternoon, he could get the ferry to Orkney (JoG or Gills Bay), cycle to Kirkwall (30km), wide range of eating and drinking options, get the ferry at 2330 round to Aberdeen and, arriving at 7am (both ferry fares together comparable with a B&B), it's 165km back to Inverness via Grantown-on-Spey and other beautiful terrain.


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## jnrmczip (17 Jun 2016)

steveindenmark said:


> I am just looking at the North Coast 500 route. The route looks great across to the West coast from Inverness and the along the top to JOG. But the only option then are the A99 and the A9 back to Inverness.
> 
> I dont know much about the A99 but the A9 does not have a good write up for cyclists. But once you come off the A99 it doesnt look as though you have any option but to use the A9 for a long way South.
> 
> ...



We have just cycled the nc500 me and a few others I suggest giving the a9 a miss take it to tain once at tain then pick up the ncn1 to inverness 
Another member @MiK1138 will vouch for this we hit the a9 busy section after tain at rush hour and we regret not taking the ncn 1 route


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## MiK1138 (21 Jun 2016)

I still dont know how we survived it, the Velo Gods must have wrapped us in Teflon


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## Ajax Bay (21 Jun 2016)

mmmmartin said:


> The Crask Inn is worth a big detour to visit, assuming it still operates as an inn and has not been sold/closed.


My last night of an end-to-end (2015) was in the Crask Inn 'cottage' with excellent meals, beer and craic in the Inn all evening (a refuge from the midges). Think the cottage has capacity for 8/9. Cash only. Mid-May latest:
"The Crask Inn will not be opening till Friday 25th March. It will only be open 3 days per week on a Friday Saturday and Sunday, No bookings will be taken for the Monday Tuesday Wedensday (sic) and Thursdays. However the Cottage which is adjacent to The Crask Inn will be open from the 25th March for all dates but is strictly Self-Catering. I have been asked by the owners to post this information on Trip Advisor as they do not have Internet. Should you require any further information regarding The Crask Inn please Tel 01549 411241. Thankyou Angus McKinlay"
Did I mention the midges? leaving Lairg at 7pm in the dry but wearing a waterproof (ish) jacket) it was like cycling into a blizzard. No stopping and smoking in the Inn definitely allowed (for insect deterrent purposes).


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## NC500 cycling blog (12 Aug 2016)

May be too late for you but I have written two NC500 cycling blogs on the official NC500 web site; June 2016 giving road safety advice about level crossings and single track roads and August 2016 about the cycle shops and repair options on the route with some tips about the Bealach na Ba...and more to come -Sept 2016 will detail a cyclist's NC500 route avoiding the A9. Please share to let it be more widely known that this information is out there and readily available to anyone thinking about cycling the NC500 or anywhere in the North Highlands. Thanks!


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## Ajax Bay (15 Aug 2016)

NC500 cycling blog said:


> two NC500 cycling blogs on the official NC500 web site; June 2016 giving road safety advice about level crossings and single track roads and August 2016 about the cycle shops and repair options on the route with some tips about the Bealach na Ba


To make it even easier to share/access, here's the link:
NC500 cycling blog


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## Blue Hills (23 May 2017)

Prog on iplayer.

other parts to follow.

Helpfully with subtitles for folks who don't speak the language:

includes longish interview with a cyclist.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b08qltyj/north-coast-500-le-anne-lundon-series-1-episode-1#


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## User19783 (23 May 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> Prog on iplayer.
> 
> other parts to follow.
> 
> ...


Been watching this, but unfortunately it has put us off, as when we do these challenges, I cycle and my partner meets me at the hotel, as she doesn't cycle, she needs to be comfortable and confident when driving, I feel that won't be the case round those roads. 
So I will have to rethink my options.

But I do enjoy reading other people's challenges.


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## Blue Hills (23 May 2017)

curious problem/limitation for a bike trip User19783.

Any chance of getting her to pedal or on the back of a tandem?


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## Ajax Bay (23 May 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> includes longish interview with a cyclist.


From 22:40 on the iPlayer link (above).


User19783 said:


> she needs to be comfortable and confident when driving, I feel that won't be the case round those roads.


The A896 goes straight north from Kishorn to Shieldaig and is an easy drive (for the 'support vehicle'). meanwhile you have the amazing and legendary Bealach na Ba climb (and descent) to Applecross, followed by the ride round the coast road to Shieldaig or on to Torridon (to the hotel?).
NC500 is definitely on my list of rides to do, albeit with the return from JoG not on the A99/A9 but back past Thurso to Bettyhill and south along Strathnaver, past the 'new' Crask Inn, and down to Lairg, the Falls of Shin, Bonar Bridge, Ardgay, the hill (B) road to Alness and on back to Inverness.


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## User19783 (24 May 2017)

Blue Hills said:


> curious problem/limitation for a bike trip User19783.
> 
> Any chance of getting her to pedal or on the back of a tandem?



No chance, as she is unable to sit on a saddle due to lady problems


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## scpsmith (10 Jun 2018)

Hi, my friend and I did the North Coast 500 in May this year. 
We also wanted to avoid the A9, so we ended up going to Dunnet Head, and then retracing our steps (wheels !) to head south via the A897 to Kinbrace. We then turned right to head west to Syre , before then heading south to The Crask Inn.

The ride on the A897 and B871 across to Syre was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Remote, wild, rugged and tough going. 
I have written a full journal of my 7 day trip here NorthCoast500 

Hope that helps anyone else thinking of doing the ride.


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## Ajax Bay (10 Jun 2018)

scpsmith said:


> before then heading south to The Crask Inn.


Thank you for writing the diary which I enjoyed reading (and the photos). Delighted that you managed to get beds in the Crask Inn. I stayed there on my last night of an end-to-end 3 years ago when still a (anything but) normal pub.


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## Fiona R (13 Jun 2018)

scpsmith said:


> Hi, my friend and I did the North Coast 500 in May this year.
> We also wanted to avoid the A9, so we ended up going to Dunnet Head, and then retracing our steps (wheels !) to head south via the A897 to Kinbrace. We then turned right to head west to Syre , before then heading south to The Crask Inn.
> 
> The ride on the A897 and B871 across to Syre was one of the highlights of the trip for me. Remote, wild, rugged and tough going.
> ...


I enjoyed your blog too, we did some of nc 500 in reverse to you as part of a tour 2 years ts ago in horrendous weather . Not keen on the shiny white Subarus/clean and new 4x4s on that part of route. local traffic, any other vehicles and Local motorcyclists were very considerate.


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## berty bassett (13 Jun 2018)

Done it last year in august and although it is a truly wonderful route , i had my first experience of a full scale military assault by the midges ( took me 3 attempts to load bike up in the morning ) and then had 2 days of 50mph storm - be prepared for bad weather ! i wasnt and i was froze , just blown straight across the road like a paper bag ! saw the only shelter ( bus stop in middle of nowhere ) have its roof blown off and in the end turned down A99 to get blown to latherton
my route was going to miss both A99 and A9 like others have said Crask inn but i just had to get the north wind behind me
sounds like i didn't enjoy it but i would do it again tomorrow , Anyone doing it i would suggest booking places to stay way in advance and if your carrying camping gear - try and get as light as you can as you are in for some hills -- Big hills -- lots of them
i posted little boxes of goodies to each B&b for snacks and stuff for the next day as there are places where there is no shop stop


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## MiK1138 (13 Jun 2018)

Cyclist Does NC1000 ?????
https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-44453403


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## berty bassett (13 Jun 2018)

MiK1138 said:


> Cyclist Does NC1000 ?????
> https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-44453403


That is some feat ! Don’t think I will be challenging that


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## MiK1138 (13 Jun 2018)

berty bassett said:


> That is some feat ! Don’t think I will be challenging that


Once was enough for me, I do intend to do it anti clockwise at some point though


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## saoirse50 (17 Jun 2018)

I was in Scotland a couple of weeks or so ago. I’m a regular visitor, have been all my life. My grandfather was born way up on the North Coast and took us up back often in the sixties when it took 3 days to get there. As a teenager I toured up there, on my Holdsworth Equipe, camping and hosteling, and later on in my twenties. Then carried on the tradition with my daughter in the 90s using trains, tents and bikes. My daughter moved up there and so I continue being a regular visitor, invariably by train and Bike, with tent. I have cycled every road north of Inverness many times and many more roads and tracks besides up there. Last trip was in May to do some gravel track and off road riding to bothies plus a trip round Applecross, which I last visited 10 years ago. The NC500 has brought far more people to the area. Which is good in many ways, but does have some drawbacks. The main one being that the single lane with passing places roads are just not, in my opinion, coping with the kind of traffic they are getting now. It has changed the experience for me, and not always in a good way. Lots of large motorhomes, many drivers who don’t seem to understand how the passing place system works, for some reason. Overtaken often by motorhome drivers who then forced me to brake continually on descents behind them as they hadn’t the skills to descend at more than about 10mph. Descending like that on a fully loaded tourer with rim brakes is both difficult and ultimately painful. I still love the area, and will continue visiting. But intending to do much more of the gravel tracks and off road and less of the NC500 itself.


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## saoirse50 (17 Jun 2018)

View from the top of Bealach Na Ba.


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## snorri (17 Jun 2018)

saoirse50 said:


> I was in Scotland a couple of weeks or so ago. .................................. and less of the NC500 itself.


I hear this sort of thing being said more and more in relation to the NC500.
When first announced it was said to be a wonderful route for motorists, cyclists and walkers. Knowing what I know of the route I commented 'a lethal mix'. I'm still waiting to find any place that will be improved by the introduction of more motor vehicles.


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## saoirse50 (18 Jun 2018)

It is still a beautiful road trip. But is in danger of losing part of what makes it special, it’s remote atmosphere free of heavy traffic. There was what I can only call a queue to ascend the Bealach Na Ba the day I went up it. Goodness knows what it will be like in July and August. I managed to find more of what I love Scotland for, heading up the gravel track to Attadale, staying in the bothy there, and also heading down to Uags bothy, which requires leaving the bike where the road ends at the tip of Applecross and then hiking a few miles. But worth it.


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## albal (18 Jun 2018)

My take on some of that route last year. https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=1mr&page_id=510871&v=5f


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## NorthernDave (18 Jun 2018)

A friend has done the NC500 twice on his touring motorbike.
He's a very experienced motorcyclist, a qualified event escort rider and a former Blood Bike rider, so he knows what he's doing and isn't one for flying about recklessly.
The first time he rode it was right after it started and he loved it. The second time was last year and he echoed a lot of the comments posted about how busy parts of it are and how unsuitable many of the roads are for the volume and type of traffic now using them, a situation not helped by the attitude / abilities of some users.

I still fancy doing it though.


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## saoirse50 (20 Jun 2018)

I was up near Gairloch at New Year. Mostly off roading, but rode some of the route then. Pretty empty!


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## saoirse50 (20 Jun 2018)

On this old thing!


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## saoirse50 (20 Jun 2018)

That last photo is from the top of the hill east of Kinlochewe. Looking down to Loch Maree, I guess. There's a viewpoint on the other side of the road. December/January, almost had the road to myself and viewpoint empty for the 5 minute stop. Same trip in May this year..viewpoint had four cars and two motorhomes in it when I got there. In 5 minutes I lost count of the cars that pulled in and out plus around 6 motorhomes. Not so much of a problem on that stretch of road, I guess. But once you get to the single lane roads, different story.


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## saoirse50 (21 Jun 2018)

albal said:


> My take on some of that route last year. https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=1mr&page_id=510871&v=5f


Haha! Same happened to me with the Cromarty ferry. I was heading north, from Inverness, on a trip around the whole coast of Scotland I did maybe 15 or so years ago. I didn’t ring, not realising it was quite so weather dependant. Very strong winds from the west. Had to head all the way back along that north coast of the Black Isle, having headed east already along the south of it, from Inverness. Into that massive headwind. Turned what was to have been a 70 mile or so day into a 100 miler. Weather was appalling. I was so tired by the time I got to Helmsdale, I decided to stay in the hostel, but couldn’t find it. (Helmsdale is a small place, I just wasn’t functioning) Rang the hostel from a phone box (that dates this tale!) just up the main road from the harbour. The warden tried explaining to me but must have realised I had lost the capacity to understand English. She told me to look outside the phone box up the road. There she was, at the top of the road outside the hostel waving and calling to me.


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