# Tyre cuts - super glue or vulcanising rubber solution?



## beanzontoast (7 Jul 2008)

Which is better to fix flint and glass cuts in a tyre - super glue or vulcanising rubber solution?

I've been an advocate of the latter - after all, it sticks patches pretty good - but it doesn't seem to stick around () in the cut for long - in fact, whether it's doing any good, I can't tell. It doesn't seem to seal the sides of the cut, or fill any of those star-shaped cracks left by pointy stones. By the next day, you can't tell the rubber solution was ever there.

But using superglue? Surely when it hardens, it's the same as having a flint or piece of glass in the tread?


----------



## Twenty Inch (7 Jul 2008)

Superglue is brittle. I've used it in the past, but I'm not sure whether it does any good. I now think that the flexing of the tyre in motion would break up and drive out the superglue.

Bit of contact adhesive perhaps?


----------



## beanzontoast (7 Jul 2008)

Twenty Inch said:


> Superglue is brittle. I've used it in the past, but I'm not sure whether it does any good. I now think that the flexing of the tyre in motion would break up and drive out the superglue.
> 
> Bit of contact adhesive perhaps?



Yeah - had thought about trying Bostik. Has anyone else had a go... before I destroy my Gators!


----------



## kyuss (7 Jul 2008)

I use superglue but have on occasion had a slow puncture caused by the glue hardening into a point. It's good for proper long cuts, not so great for tapered holes caused by pieces of glass etc as it just hardens into a point and can on occasion push its way though into the tube.

I've a few friends who swear by wetsuit repair glue. It's a contact adhesive like superglue but it doesn't harden. Haven't tried it yet myself but at about £5 a tube it's cheaper than binning a tyre and worth a try.


----------



## beanzontoast (7 Jul 2008)

kyuss said:


> I use superglue but have on occasion had a slow puncture caused by the glue hardening into a point. It's good for proper long cuts, not so great for tapered holes caused by pieces of glass etc as it just hardens into a point and can on occasion push its way though into the tube.
> 
> I've a few friends who swear by wetsuit repair glue. It's a contact adhesive like superglue but it doesn't harden. Haven't tried it yet myself but at about £5 a tube it's cheaper than binning a tyre and worth a try.



Now that looks nifty... I may have to give that a go. 

It's just that the cuts and nicks bother me, especially in tyres that ain't that old. The holes have a habit of trapping water (as can be seen if you wipe your tyre with a dry cloth and watch the smears from the cuts as the cloth passes over) - can't be good. An adhesive that stayed flexible but filled the hole to keep water out might be just the thing.


----------



## Mr Pig (7 Jul 2008)

I have used rubber puncture patches on the inside and outside of a badly cut tyre, that worked fine. Super Glue's no use.


----------



## beanzontoast (7 Jul 2008)

Mr Pig said:


> I have used rubber puncture patches on the inside and outside of a badly cut tyre, that worked fine. Super Glue's no use.



These aren't big cuts - biggest is 5mm maybe - but there's plenty of them. The roads around here are grim for having glass on them, especially in the middle of town.


----------



## Tynan (7 Jul 2008)

tyres ain't that much are they, I got a £11 Lugano on the front and it's going very well, not sure I'd be happy running on a tyre with cuts like some of you lot seem to be happy running on


----------



## Dave5N (8 Jul 2008)

Yep. Make your LBS owner smile. Buy a new tyre.


----------



## kyuss (8 Jul 2008)

I like good tyres. They make a big difference to the handling and grip. £10 tyres just don't cut it IMO (and I've used plenty of them). If I was to buy a new Fortezza Tricomp or Pro Race every time I got a little cut in it I'd be spending hundreds of pounds a year.

Cuts in tyres are inevitable and unless they go right through the carcass or are quite large and make the tyre bulge they are perfectly safe to glue up and carry on riding. Even the mechanics of Pro Tour teams with their huge budgets are known to glue up little cuts, and if it's a good enough solution for them it's certainly good enough for me.


----------



## beanzontoast (8 Jul 2008)

kyuss said:


> I like good tyres. They make a big difference to the handling and grip. £10 tyres just don't cut it IMO (and I've used plenty of them). If I was to buy a new Fortezza Tricomp or Pro Race every time I got a little cut in it I'd be spending hundreds of pounds a year.
> 
> *Cuts in tyres are inevitable and unless they go right through the carcass or are quite large and make the tyre bulge they are perfectly safe to glue up and carry on riding.* Even the mechanics of Pro Tour teams with their huge budgets are known to glue up little cuts, and if it's a good enough solution for them it's certainly good enough for me.



This is how I feel about it. Gators aren't the most expensive tyres, but neither do I like chucking tyres away if they are still safe to use!


----------



## Tynan (8 Jul 2008)

erm , I was talking about 10mm cuts ans slashes with the tube bulging out

gawd

I use tyres until they're going flat too often, like everyone else

barring bloody Gators which I gave away after three weeks, cut up and skated in the wet, the Luganos have been lovely

and I've got a la de da 4000 on the rear so there


----------



## 02GF74 (8 Jul 2008)

i've tired rubber solution - didn't last long.


----------



## PapaZita (8 Jul 2008)

I think Shoe Goo is good for filling small holes and cuts. It stays flexible and lasts fairly well.


----------



## buddha (8 Jul 2008)

The one thing I have used that did work was the black rubber vulcanising solution that's meant for car tyres (the cycle stuff falls out after a few weeks, as did superglue).
Didn't want to get the huge bottle, so the garage let me use a little for free
The slits are still good (unopened) after 6 months and counting.


----------



## beanzontoast (8 Jul 2008)

buddha said:


> The one thing I have used that did work was the *black rubber vulcanising solution that's meant for car tyres* (the cycle stuff falls out after a few weeks, as did superglue).
> Didn't want to get the huge bottle, so the garage let me use a little for free
> The slits are still good (unopened) after 6 months and counting.



Haven't come across this before. What's this stuff called - do they sell it in motor spares shops? Anyone?


----------



## buddha (8 Jul 2008)

beanzontoast said:


> Haven't come across this before. What's this stuff called - do they sell it in motor spares shops? Anyone?


It was a 2-part mix (i.e 2 tins that you mix). Similar to this IIRC (scroll down to last item). But a tad expensive!
Had my tyres fixed at the local garage - during a car MOT. You could try an auto spares shop though.


----------



## Keith Oates (9 Jul 2008)

If the cuts are small and have not opened up then I don't do anything with them. I do wash the outside of the tyres after most rides (on the roadies not the commute bike) and at the same time look at the cuts but if any start to open then I change the tyre!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Hover Fly (10 Jul 2008)

Get a tube of "Copydex" (liquid latex) and some dry graphite powder, the sort used for dry lubricating locks. Mix together, you will have to do some experimenting to get the proportions right, what you want is enough powder that the copydex doesn't solidify until you have got it in the cut. Push the mixture into the cut and smooth level with the tyre. Allow to harden.


----------



## Glasgow Brian (22 Feb 2016)

Although I've not used it on tyre cuts, I've used Loctite Hybrid Glue (extra strong) to repair splits in silicone rubber mouldings. It adheres well, stays flexible and doesn't come out of the repair. Comes in a 50gm plastic bottle, and has a shelf life of maybe 5 years after opening, before it gets thicker and difficult to squeeze out the bottle.

I also have a 20-30 yr old tube of American "Quik Leak Chec (clear)", part no. 10500, Kent Industries, Cleveland made for the car industry - which has not dried out. Although it's a leak sealer and looks like a thick rubber glue, I remember using this to repair worn patches on my running shoes, and it wore as well as the soles. Just in case my memory is wrong, I've just applied some to rubber to see what happens. It will probably need all night to dry out and gain strength. If my memory is wrong, it's likely I used Shoe Goo instead.


----------



## Glasgow Brian (25 Feb 2016)

beanzontoast said:


> Haven't come across this before. What's this stuff called - do they sell it in motor spares shops? Anyone?


I know this is an old blog but, as I was interested, I researched online and found that RTV (room temperature vulcanising) black silicone rubber is available for £5 + £2.80 p&p. As a filler, it should be better than a thin rubber solution. And, as its vulcanising, it will bond to rubber and not come out of the cut. It's made for the car trade.
https://www.agriemach.com/p1875-automotive-black-silicone-3oz


----------



## mrandmrspoves (25 Feb 2016)

kyuss said:


> I use superglue but have on occasion had a slow puncture caused by the glue hardening into a point. It's good for proper long cuts, not so great for tapered holes caused by pieces of glass etc as it just hardens into a point and can on occasion push its way though into the tube.
> 
> I've a few friends who swear by wetsuit repair glue. It's a contact adhesive like superglue but it doesn't harden. Haven't tried it yet myself but at about £5 a tube it's cheaper than binning a tyre and worth a try.


 I have been using Stormsure for a few years now and thoroughly recommend it. If you search around, you can find a multi pack of 3 small tubes which are good value. I believe I read that larger tubes can be stored in the freezer after opening to prevent the glue in the tube drying out. If using this product on tyres, I would advise leaving the repaired tyre for at least 24 hours before re-using because it can take a long time to cure.


----------



## Drago (25 Feb 2016)

Sikaflex in black.


----------



## Globalti (26 Feb 2016)

Gawd, where did this story about glueing cuts with superglue come from? It's as naff as letting your tyres down to fly. 

If the carcass isn't damaged, carry on riding but perhaps move the tyre to the rear wheel. If there's a small area of damage, patch the tyre from inside. If a big area of damage, throw it away.


----------



## Fab Foodie (26 Feb 2016)

Wet suit Neoprene repair glue I found was the best.


----------

