# Outer Hebrides - May 2019



## mythste (26 Apr 2019)

I'm going to stop hijacking other peoples threads and start my own!

Next week I set off with 4 others for 12 days to go on an adventure. As much as anything, I anticipate this thread will be for my own posterity but it seems harder than one might think to find clear facts about the journey so if anyone has any questions I'll do my best to answer!

So far we have very little in the way of the itinerary. We're getting trains up from Manchester on Thursday and getting the ferry across to Barra on Friday morning. From there, the only real "hard" deadline is the ferry from Stornoway to Skye, so we can get the booked train back to Manchester from Mallaig on the 14th. 

I'm travelling purposely heavy, the weather is looking unpredictable and we think we'll be wild camping for a good two-thirds of the journey with the odd campsite or hostel as necessary. The steed is a Genesis Croix De Fer 10 and the obligatory 4 Ortliebs. I'm making it a personal mission to try and steer clear of freeze-dried rations and to try and cook some decent trangia meals. We don't have huge days of riding so i anticipate plenty of time in the evening to knock up something nice. 

I plan to record a timelapse of me loading the bike up this weekend. With a bit of luck!

If there's any advice to be had (We know about the Sunday thing!) I'd welcome it


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## Crackle (26 Apr 2019)

Midges. Did I mention midges and don't forget midges. You might be lucky but they might be out now. Pray for wind and that they're not, especially if you're wild camping.


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## Bobby Mhor (26 Apr 2019)

Book anything you need to ahead (possible) ahead...
try to keep spare provisions, shops are kinda few
and as Crackle says buy a midge head net.
You will thank him for that suggestion if they are about..

You will love it....and most of all enjoy!


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## mythste (26 Apr 2019)

I've been in a midge swarm before and I'm going as prepared as I can for that one. Between us we've got a number of loads of anti midge stuff so we should be good there. I hadnt considered a net so that's going on the amazon list. 

Though I should hope it's use will be limited, I've also bought biodegradable babywipes and a poop shovel (Only 17 grams!). The joys of touring with IBS.


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## iandg (26 Apr 2019)

Midges may not be too bad in May. Peak is a lot later (August/September) than on the mainland. Depends on weather.


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## iandg (26 Apr 2019)

Western Isles Open Sunday Directory

https://www.facebook.com/groups/oosdir/


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## iandg (26 Apr 2019)

Ferries are Stornoway to Ullapool or Tarbert to Uig (Skye) - not Stornoway to Skye as in OP - was it a typo?


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## iandg (26 Apr 2019)

I'm moving away in May after living in Stornoway for 21 years. Don't start the move until 9th so will look out for a CdF with 4 ortilebs.


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## Crackle (26 Apr 2019)

It should be a great trip. I look forward to reading about it. Take lots of pictures.


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## Edwardoka (26 Apr 2019)

Having now made that trip twice, I'd say that camping probably isn't necessary. There are really excellent hostels all the way up the archipelago run by the Gatliff Trust - you can't book in advance, but they are very unlikely to turn you away, and you get to meet some really interesting people in the process.

Caveat: you'd still need to book accommodation in Barra and Stornoway in advance, though.
It's an excellent trip and I look forward to your writeup


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## mythste (26 Apr 2019)

iandg said:


> Ferries are Stornoway to Ullapool or Tarbert to Uig (Skye) - not Stornoway to Skye as in OP - was it a typo?



Well spotted! You are indeed correct. Tarbert to Uig it is. Do give us a wave if you see us, 5 beardy blokes with big grins and bikes!


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## mythste (26 Apr 2019)

Edwardoka said:


> Having now made that trip twice, I'd say that camping probably isn't necessary. There are really excellent hostels all the way up the archipelago run by the Gatliff Trust - you can't book in advance, but they are very unlikely to turn you away, and you get to meet some really interesting people in the process.
> 
> Caveat: you'd still need to book accommodation in Barra and Stornoway in advance, though.
> It's an excellent trip and I look forward to your writeup



That's good to know in case of emergancy! The camping aspect is actually one of the main appeals for us all. At one with nature and all that. I reserve the right to change my mind following nature giving me a solid once over.


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## stephenjubb (27 Apr 2019)

mythste said:


> That's good to know in case of emergancy! The camping aspect is actually one of the main appeals for us all. At one with nature and all that. I reserve the right to change my mind following nature giving me a solid once over.



When you get off the ferry at Barra, you can head south to Vatersay ( it is brilliant and views to die for! ) to camp wild or pay approx £4. There is a cafe there last time I was there a few years ago.

I'd not camp in the village on the beach where the Ferry arrives if there are 4 of you - I have and had no issues. Other campers have reported otherwise.


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## mudsticks (27 Apr 2019)

Wild camping is mostly easy all the way up tho.
The first time I did Barra, and Vatersay to Harris/ Lewis, I had intended to stay in some Gatliffe black houses - they're definitely worth a look, but timings were off due to wind and other things, so ended up camping every night and also when across to Skye and back down to Sleat.. Where is your exit point from Skye??

I would counsel against the main cross Skye road at busy times.

The hills aren't particularly bad, but they've not really left enough comfort space for cyclists, and the lorries and coaches, quite understandably don't want to sow down on the longish drags up. So it's not particularly comfortable.

Sunday is much quieter from that pov

One time on a return route, midweek, I sweet talked the guy in the outdoor shop, into transporting me and my bike back to Broadford from Portree, in his van to avoid it.

Made a donation to Mountain Rescue - in consideration of course.


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## Ticktockmy (27 Apr 2019)

Last time we went to the Outer Hebrides it was June and the weather was crap, we rode north from Barra to Lewes. we camped near the airport first night where we were battered by high winds, 2nd day the winds remained high and because they pushed us along at at quite a rate so we got to Berneray Youth Hostel that evening which was a day earlier than planned, the hostel was packed as sso many tents had been wrecked in the high winds so we grabbed the two empty beds in the female quarter which riased some concerns with a couple of ladies but the rest were happy withus being there.

Third day was great the wind had dropped and the ride around the coast Harris to Tarbert via the golden road was a great ride we camped at Ceann-na-cleithe. Next day we headed North to Stornaway which was again a windless day,

Next day we decided to ride to the Butt of Lewes, that was a mistake as it was a windy day, it took us 2 hours to get there but 4 hours to get back, following day we took the ferry to Ullapool, the good thing with the wind there were no midges.


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## Yellow Fang (27 Apr 2019)

I have just come back from cycling the Outer Hebrides. 
Tip 1: cycle northward, which I can see you're doing, because it can be very windy.
Tip 2: check the ferry timetables very carefully. For example, the 16:20 ferry from Tarbert to Uig only sails every other day. I think the ferry to Uig sails from North Uist the other days. The midday ferry from Bernerey to Leverburgh does not sail on Sundays, although it might do by May. 
Tip 3: all the shops shut on Sundays, so get some food on Saturdays, or be near a hotel. 
Tip 4: be prepared to alter your plans. In particular the ferries can be unpredictable. I met some cyclists who said they were stuck on Barra for their first three days because the high winds stopped the ferries from sailing. I hear high tides, or was it low tides, can affect the ferries too.


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## mythste (29 Apr 2019)

This is honestly all so useful, thanks! A few pointers;

1. We have taken time to print and laminate appropriate timetables, including ferries, and potential bailout campsites/hostels/etc. 

2. When we get to Castlebay (Thursday), we are going south to camp at the southernmost point. This is a short journey and will allow us basic shops (Coop?) in Castlebay as we pass back through due north if any of us have forgotten anything crucial. 

3. We plan to be off of Barra on Friday and barring any weather-related catastrophes, make a good distance on Saturday to build up some emergency/sightseeing time further north. (My biggest fear is, as above, being stuck on Barra for too long). 

4. Hopefully, this early kick on will make the rest of the journey perfectly leisurely, but being as the only deadline on the Outer Hebrides is the ferry from Tarbert, we can cut short and head straight over if needs be. 

Brushing up on my trangia recipes now


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## Yellow Fang (29 Apr 2019)

If you get in trouble, there is a company called HebShuttle you can call to bring your bicycles back. We were told by someone at a hostel that you can put your bike on the ordinary coaches, I think in the luggage compartment. We were seriously considering this because we were worried about fighting a strong head wind over the Harris hills back to Tarbert. In the end, the wind was no problem, but we could have struggled to average 8 mph if it had been against us.

South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist are flat. Barra is fairly hilly, at least on the east side. Lewis is fairly flat. Harris is very hilly. There is an enormous hill leaving Tarbert north towards Lewis. It's not just long and steep, but there can be a stiff cross wind. We had to walk up much of that. Once you're past that hill, it is not too bad.

Most people think the sands on West Harris are worth a visit. When it's sunny, the sea is turquoise and the beach is golden. The road from these beaches on the north side of South Harris is very hilly.

Keep an eye out for cafes because there are not many of them and are often not very well advertised.

The roads are in surprisingly good condition, but they are often single lane. There are lots of passing places, but it gets a PITA stopping for oncoming traffic all the time, which they tend to expect you to do, notwithstanding that they seem wide enough for a car to pass a cyclist.

The hostel in Berneray is a nice place to wait if you get stuck waiting for the ferry on a Sunday when everywhere is shut.

The Co-ops stay open late, at least in Castlebay, but some other food shops tend to close about 5pm.


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## mythste (29 Apr 2019)

Yellow Fang said:


> If you get in trouble, there is a company called HebShuttle you can call to bring your bicycles back. We were told by someone at a hostel that you can put your bike on the ordinary coaches, I think in the luggage compartment. We were seriously considering this because we were worried about fighting a strong head wind over the Harris hills back to Tarbert. In the end, the wind was no problem, but we could have struggled to average 8 mph if it had been against us.
> 
> South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist are flat. Barra is fairly hilly, at least on the east side. Lewis is fairly flat. Harris is very hilly. There is an enormous hill leaving Tarbert north towards Lewis. It's not just long and steep, but there can be a stiff cross wind. We had to walk up much of that. Once you're past that hill, it is not too bad.
> 
> ...



I think we're planning on heading up the west route the entire journey unless someone has reason to suggest otherwise.

Weather is so far looking _questionable. _But I suppose to expect anything less is foolish. We're all pretty hardy riders and at the moment can't imagine a headwind getting the best of us... We'll see!


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## OldShep (29 Apr 2019)

I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd


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## mythste (29 Apr 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd



General research suggests you won’t find a shop every day on that distance. But I’ll report back!


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## Fab Foodie (29 Apr 2019)

mythste said:


> I think we're planning on heading up the west route the entire journey unless someone has reason to suggest otherwise.
> 
> Weather is so far looking _questionable. _But I suppose to expect anything less is foolish. We're all pretty hardy riders and at the moment can't imagine a headwind getting the best of us... We'll see!


West route is sensible.
The Eastern route on Harris is lumpy and avoid the scenic Gold Road unless you like climbing.
Beaches on Bernaray are fab and the old hostel is one of my favourite places.

Agree with Yellow Fang about the road out of Tarbet, On the Brommie I never walked (smug) but came close. The wind and rain can howl through the pass like you cannot believe. But worth the effort.

I will get @Hill Wimp to remind me of cafes etc. That are worth visiting.


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## Fab Foodie (29 Apr 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd


Shops, Petrol stations, pubs hotels and Cafes are very few and far between. Best reseach what’s available en-route or as I soon learned, carry 2 days rations just in case.


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## HelenD123 (29 Apr 2019)

Is drinking water easy to come by? I'm heading to the Hebrides in a couple of weeks too and planning to camp as much as possible. I'm wondering whether to get one of those bottles with a built in water filter for emergencies.


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## Crackle (29 Apr 2019)

HelenD123 said:


> Is drinking water easy to come by? I'm heading to the Hebrides in a couple of weeks too and planning to camp as much as possible. I'm wondering whether to get one of those bottles with a built in water filter for emergencies.


It's the Hebrides; just tilt your head back and open your mouth.


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## HelenD123 (29 Apr 2019)

Crackle said:


> It's the Hebrides; just tilt your head back and open your mouth.


Nooo! It's going to sunny, dry and not windy surely


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## iandg (29 Apr 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd



I did the Heb Way in 16 hours last year (cycling Stornoway to Castlebay the day before)  The shops I remember/used en-route Castlebay Co-op, Creagorry co-op, Balivanich mini-market, Leverburgh mini-market, shops in Tarbert, one at the Airdashaig petrol station, Cameron Terrace filling station at Leurbost has a shop and so does Barvas filling station. There are a few on the road from Barvas to Ness too, Cross stores a small diversion off the route being the biggest.

Engebrets filling station does take away food, has a mini market and is open on Sunday (10am-4pm) too.

Other shops I've used as 'controls' for DIY audax rides are South Lochs (Ravenspoint), and on the Uig (Timsgarry)

https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/visitor-info/facilities/supermarkets-and-community-shops


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## iandg (29 Apr 2019)

HelenD123 said:


> Is drinking water easy to come by? I'm heading to the Hebrides in a couple of weeks too and planning to camp as much as possible. I'm wondering whether to get one of those bottles with a built in water filter for emergencies.



Taps at the ferry terminals, toilets and at petrol stations. There's one in Tarbert in the wall of the toilet block behind the cashpoint machine and one in the wall at the Callanish visitor centre (on the left as you approach opposite the shop entrance).

Cafes etc will always fill your bottles


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## Fab Foodie (29 Apr 2019)

From @Hill Wimp: food and drink.

Croft 36 Northton Harris
Temple cafe Northton Harris
Talanamara neisabost Harris
North Harbour bistro scalpay Harris
Taigh chearsabhagh lochmaddy
Stepping stones balivanich. Benbecula
Grimsay community cente scotvein Grimsay
Cafe at Kallin Harbour Grimsay - Recommended!!
General store at Eriskay (plus 2 pubs)
Polo char inn Eriskay
Bernaray shop and bistro
Claddach kirkibost centre cafe
Westford inn north Uist
Lochboisdale hotel
The anchorage restaurant leverburgh
McClennans supermarket ballivianch benbecula
Coop at Sollas
Coop creagorry s. Uist/benbecula
Coop Dallibirg s uist

Excuse typing, chopped top of main texting finger!!

Hope that helps :-)


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## iandg (29 Apr 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> From @Hill Wimp: food and drink.
> 
> Croft 36 Northton Harris
> Temple cafe Northton Harris
> ...



Temple Cafe open Sunday too (if the new owners maintain the tradition)


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## furball (29 Apr 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’m sailing over from Oban on the 14th May. The only things I ever worry about are being warm and having food. Can I expect to find a shop every day or when I find one should I stock up for a few days. Probably doing around 40 mpd


As others have said shops are few and far between. Once you get to Lewis be aware very little is open on a Sunday. Check out where there are Co-ops and stock up so you have a couple of days reserve.


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## Fiona R (29 Apr 2019)

We had a great time in 2016 (see my blog in signature) and are going back in June, this time with a tent so we can go with the flow. As long as you know food is never when you need it so stock up, be prepared for wind and rain and midges and ferry cancellations. Carry a spare tyre, spoke etc Everyone else has said all that!


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## andrew_s (30 Apr 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> From @Hill Wimp: food and drink.
> 
> Croft 36 Northton Harris
> Temple cafe Northton Harris
> ...


When I was last there, the Bay Centre at Lacklee, Harris (on the approach to Stockinish from the south) was also operating a cafe.


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## Fab Foodie (30 Apr 2019)

Don’t attempt the cattle-grids on a loaded Brompton!!!


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## mythste (30 Apr 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> Don’t attempt the cattle-grids on a loaded Brompton!!!





It's fine, I intend to bunny hop them on my ~50kg Croix De Fer


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## OldShep (30 Apr 2019)

Cranky Knee Girl said:


> We had a great time in 2016 (see my blog in signature) and are going back in June, this time with a tent so we can go with the flow. As long as you know food is never when you need it so stock up, be prepared for wind and rain and midges and ferry cancellations. Carry a spare tyre, spoke etc Everyone else has said all that!


I’m enjoying reading your blog but I have to say that font is extremely hard work for older eyes.


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## simon the viking (30 Apr 2019)

Love the outer hebrides. Mrs V's auntie has a house near Stornoway hoping to a cycle tour with lad one day


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## mythste (30 Apr 2019)

Cranky Knee Girl said:


> We had a great time in 2016 (see my blog in signature) and are going back in June, this time with a tent so we can go with the flow. As long as you know food is never when you need it so stock up, be prepared for wind and rain and midges and ferry cancellations. Carry a spare tyre, spoke etc Everyone else has said all that!



That made for some lovely reading - thanks!

I've just managed to grab some cheap (ish) wayfarer food pouch things should things get really tight. I have a whole front pannier dedicated to food so I will stock up on fresh veg when I can and take plenty with me.

The rest of the group are living purely of those little jetboil gas stoves and freeze dried stuff. I can't wait for the morning where there is a fine drizzle and I have bacon jently sizzling with warmth...


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## mythste (1 May 2019)

Nearly ready to go! Currently weighing in at a reasonably porky 35kg with a few odds and sods still to go.


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## Blue Hills (1 May 2019)

What's in the red bottle? Fuel?


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## mythste (1 May 2019)

Blue Hills said:


> What's in the red bottle? Fuel?



No, just another option for water. As we’re going to be wild camping the majority of the time not having enough water is a bridge I don’t want to cross! 

Fuel is in a dry bag in a pannier bag.


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## Blue Hills (1 May 2019)

I see you are well prepared (and are definitely going to be eating better than your companions) but a water bottle may be subject to a certain pollution in that position.

If you are using meths for a Trangia (don't want to upscan thread too much in case I lose it) I can recommend a bikebuddy - for that's a perfect position for a meths bottle (though one person I encountered thought I was carrying a fire extinguisher!)

Ortieb do good water bladder things for carrying extra water in bags or atop racks.

https://www.cyclestore.co.uk/ortlie...MI4KiV2eH64QIVVvhRCh2XaQu-EAQYAyABEgIYs_D_BwE

different sizes available.

enjoy your bacon.

I envy you - need to get back to that part of the world - last time I was in a car.


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## mythste (2 May 2019)

Blue Hills said:


> I see you are well prepared (and are definitely going to be eating better than your companions) but a water bottle may be subject to a certain pollution in that position.
> 
> If you are using meths for a Trangia (don't want to upscan thread too much in case I lose it) I can recommend a bikebuddy - for that's a perfect position for a meths bottle (though one person I encountered thought I was carrying a fire extinguisher!)
> 
> ...



The pollution point is an interesting one! And one I admit to not having thought about. The front mudguard is really long but perhaps I’ll keep that water bottle “shut” and use it only for boiled water. 

Thanks!


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## Blue Hills (2 May 2019)

Good idea. Am not overly anal about hygiene, especially on tour, but you want to avoid a bug.


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## iandg (2 May 2019)

mythste said:


> The pollution point is an interesting one! And one I admit to not having thought about. The front mudguard is really long but perhaps I’ll keep that water bottle “shut” and use it only for boiled water.
> 
> Thanks!



You can get bottles with caps the cover the drink nozzle - I use something similar when venturing off road without guards.


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## Blue Hills (2 May 2019)

Yes i know.

But i still wouldn't put a drinking bottle there.


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## rualexander (2 May 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> Don’t attempt the cattle-grids on a loaded Brompton!!!


I didn't have any problems on mine in february.


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## dan_bo (2 May 2019)

Tell Quinnie he's a bollix.


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## Fab Foodie (2 May 2019)

rualexander said:


> I didn't have any problems on mine in february.


I found it a pretty hairy experience. After a couple at speed I decided to walk the rest. That nice Will Self even held a gate open for me....


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## mythste (3 May 2019)

Lovely evening in Oban last night. Surprising little buzz about the place! Some slightly fuzzy heads this morning. 

Ferry over this afternoon and a short pedal for our first camp spot as far south as we can get. 

So far there’s a brutal northern headwind that the forecast says won’t relent. Character building...


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## Crackle (3 May 2019)

mythste said:


> Lovely evening in Oban last night. Surprising little buzz about the place! Some slightly fuzzy heads this morning.
> 
> Ferry over this afternoon and a short pedal for our first camp spot as far south as we can get.
> 
> So far there’s a brutal northern headwind that the forecast says won’t relent. Character building...


Yeah but, silver lining, it'll keep the midgies away


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## mythste (3 May 2019)

All aboard! It’s easy to forget the ferry takes 4-5 hours. Beautiful though the scenery is. It was lovely seeing 30 odd bikes being ushered onto the ferry along with us. Only a handful had proper baggage so I wonder is there will be a race for the first b&b. 

Two days into a bike tour and I’ve probably peddled 2 miles. If that. I suppose it technically starts tomorrow. 

Yippee!


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## mythste (3 May 2019)

dan_bo said:


> Tell Quinnie he's a bollix.



He knows.


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## iandg (3 May 2019)

mythste said:


> Lovely evening in Oban last night. Surprising little buzz about the place! Some slightly fuzzy heads this morning.
> 
> Ferry over this afternoon and a short pedal for our first camp spot as far south as we can get.
> 
> So far there’s a brutal northern headwind that the forecast says won’t relent. Character building...



Winds cold too - and we're having some good hail showers


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## Pumpkin the robot (3 May 2019)

mythste said:


> All aboard! It’s easy to forget the ferry takes 4-5 hours. Beautiful though the scenery is. It was lovely seeing 30 odd bikes being ushered onto the ferry along with us. Only a handful had proper baggage so I wonder is there will be a race for the first b&b.
> 
> Two days into a bike tour and I’ve probably peddled 2 miles. If that. I suppose it technically starts tomorrow.
> 
> Yippee!




I recognise the bikes in front and behind yours, so I guess you are on the pootlers tour with Nick and Tristan?


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## mythste (3 May 2019)

Pumpkin the robot said:


> I recognise the bikes in front and behind yours, so I guess you are on the pootlers tour with Nick and Tristan?



Correct!


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## OldShep (3 May 2019)

mythste said:


> All aboard! It’s easy to forget the ferry takes 4-5 hours. Beautiful though the scenery is. It was lovely seeing 30 odd bikes being ushered onto the ferry along with us. Only a handful had proper baggage so I wonder is there will be a race for the first b&b.
> 
> Two days into a bike tour and I’ve probably peddled 2 miles. If that. I suppose it technically starts tomorrow.
> 
> Yippee!


All that luggage is making* me feel guilty. I’ll only be carrying the half of that.


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## HelenD123 (3 May 2019)

OldShep said:


> All that luggage is making* me feel guilty. I’ll only be carrying the half of that.


Don't feel guilty, feel smug! I'll be getting full camping and cooking gear into just rear panniers. The more I tour the more I'm learning to pack light


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## flyingfifi (3 May 2019)

2 weeks to go for me yepppppppp


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## iandg (3 May 2019)

flyingfifi said:


> 2 weeks to go for me yepppppppp



1 week and I'm leaving the island


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## iandg (3 May 2019)

Snow in Harris this evening - hope you've packed your thermals.


View: https://www.instagram.com/p/BxA66CQDEoG/


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## HelenD123 (4 May 2019)

iandg said:


> Snow in Harris this evening
> 
> 
> View: https://www.instagram.com/p/BxA66CQDEoG/



Good job I'm packing my -10 sleeping bag


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## iandg (4 May 2019)

HelenD123 said:


> Good job I'm packing my -10 sleeping bag


Northerly winds at this time of year always cold. Temperature in single figures and the wind chill too


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## mythste (4 May 2019)

I thought the hail stone was a joke... we were travelling south through it so at least we had a tailwind! 

Made it to the gatliff hostel today. Opting for a warm bed as we shake off the days toils. 

Wine.


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## Fab Foodie (4 May 2019)

mythste said:


> I thought the hail stone was a joke... we were travelling south through it so at least we had a tailwind!
> 
> Made it to the gatliff hostel today. Opting for a warm bed as we shake off the days toils.
> 
> Wine.


Which Gatlife hostel are you at? A goid day to be travelling south!


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## iandg (4 May 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> Which Gatlife hostel are you at? A goid day to be travelling south!


Howmore at a guess


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## Fab Foodie (4 May 2019)

iandg said:


> Howmore at a guess


Ah yes. I only stayed at Rhenigidale and Berneray.
Travelling south on the Uist today, I'd have hoisted a Spinnaker!


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## mythste (5 May 2019)

Yes indeed, howmore last night. Setting off as a very heavy chain gang this morning. 

More. Wind.


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## mythste (6 May 2019)

Epic. 

Just waiting for the ferry over to the big isles as we speak. Wind considering we put two big days in to get to Berneray yesterday. We’ve got a day or two in hand so we intend on taking a couple of short days to enjoy things a bit more now the wind has died down a touch.


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## Fiona R (6 May 2019)

mythste said:


> No, just another option for water. As we’re going to be wild camping the majority of the time not having enough water is a bridge I don’t want to cross!
> 
> Fuel is in a dry bag in a pannier bag.


We did Cairngorms outer loop last summer and carried a water purifier as not happy drinking from streams directly at lower altitudes with sheep/cattle about. a lower weight option than carrying several litres at a time, if streams are handy!


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## Fiona R (6 May 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’m enjoying reading your blog but I have to say that font is extremely hard work for older eyes.


I am so sorry. It is quite strange as I have terrible eyesight and am always ranting about visual/fonts/contrasts etc on websites, and I am registered partially sighted and tend to read most things on a huge monitor but I am OK reading my blog on a mobile, perhaps because I know what I say?! Will certainly think about changing from the typeface one. I'm so far behind with blog writing.


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## Fiona R (6 May 2019)

HelenD123 said:


> Don't feel guilty, feel smug! I'll be getting full camping and cooking gear into just rear panniers. The more I tour the more I'm learning to pack light


We did mtb touring off road with 2 rear panniers and a handlebar roll last summer (retro bikepacking . Very definitely said we are not going down front pannier line as well. Will strap bulky stuff on rack, possibly get a handlebar bag each max for road bikes this summer. Lat time we had every night's accommodation booked so just two rear panniers, leaving 1 of 4 empty for food. Easier if sharing camping stuff between 2


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## OldShep (6 May 2019)

Cranky Knee Girl said:


> I am so sorry. It is quite strange as I have terrible eyesight and am always ranting about visual/fonts/contrasts etc on websites, and I am registered partially sighted and tend to read most things on a huge monitor but I am OK reading my blog on a mobile, perhaps because I know what I say?! Will certainly think about changing from the typeface one. I'm so far behind with blog writing.


There’s something strange ..on my iPad looks

and is difficult 
On my iPhone it’s easy to read.


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## Fab Foodie (6 May 2019)

iandg said:


> 1 week and I'm leaving the island


It’ll miss you!


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## mythste (6 May 2019)

You know that short day post earlier? Well that was bollocks. 

47 miles up to a hostel just past Tabost as the temps are dropping substantially this evening. 

Absolutely loved the hilly route over Harris, sweet relief from the wind. 

More wine.


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## Fab Foodie (6 May 2019)

mythste said:


> Epic.
> 
> Just waiting for the ferry over to the big isles as we speak. Wind considering we put two big days in to get to Berneray yesterday. We’ve got a day or two in hand so we intend on taking a couple of short days to enjoy things a bit more now the wind has died down a touch.


Jeez, that’s a lorra kit!!!


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## iandg (7 May 2019)

mythste said:


> You know that short day post earlier? Well that was bollocks.
> 
> 47 miles up to a hostel just past Tabost as the temps are dropping substantially this evening.
> 
> ...



Harris is lovely. Unfortunately (as close as I am), I don't make it down there often enough.


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## mythste (8 May 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> Jeez, that’s a lorra kit!!!



There’s a lot of weather! I know I’ve taken a lot but I’m happy riding slow and heavy. I’ve managed to use everything at least once so far. 

We’re in Shawbost today. Abandoned the ride to the butt and have no shame in saying so, the wind is just too much. 

South to Stornoway tomorrow, Tarbert the day after then three days on Skye. 

Naturally the winds going to do a 180 and we’ll be doing all that into a headwind too


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## HelenD123 (8 May 2019)

You've been seriously unlucky with the wind. I was relieved to see it turning in a favourable direction for my trip from the weekend.


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## Crackle (8 May 2019)

mythste said:


> Naturally the winds going to do a 180 and we’ll be doing all that into a headwind too


I dunno where you're going on Skye but generally it's more sheltered than the Outer Hebrides. I mean, it has trees for a start. The Outer Hebrides, Orkneys and probably the Shetlands, I wouldn't know I haven't been there, are in a different league for block headwinds.


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## OldShep (8 May 2019)

Good to hear from you I was beginning to wonder if you’d perished. I’ve been watching the weather daily and you’ve not had good. Looks to be improving when I set on on Monday and sail over Tuesday.


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## Houthakker (8 May 2019)

Glad you've got the headwind out of the way for me before my trip up there next weekend!


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## rualexander (9 May 2019)

Fab Foodie said:


> I found it a pretty hairy experience. After a couple at speed I decided to walk the rest. That nice Will Self even held a gate open for me....




View: https://youtu.be/sGKZN657TfM


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## Fab Foodie (9 May 2019)

rualexander said:


> View: https://youtu.be/sGKZN657TfM



:-)
But was it fully loaded front and back with camping gear?


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## rualexander (9 May 2019)

Yes.


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## Fab Foodie (9 May 2019)

rualexander said:


> Yes.
> 
> View attachment 465822


Bugger! Mine felt like it would break in half after the first one!


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## mythste (16 May 2019)

Well!

That was horrible, cold, wet, brutal winds averaged about 6mph over 300ish miles.

But I'd go again tomorrow if the opportunity arose.

I'll try and do a full write up with pictures sometime soon, but for those of you who are within reach of those bastard/wonderful islands - I urge you to visit.


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## Houthakker (16 May 2019)

Going up there Sunday, can't wait. Weather forecast looks more promising that what you had by the sound of it.

Look forward to your write up.


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## OldShep (16 May 2019)

I’ve reached Harris today day 2. A lovely tail wind since Vatersay  Camped at Horgabost and just had first shower of rain. 
Respect for riding into a headwind here there is literally no shelter.


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## iandg (16 May 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’ve reached Harris today day 2. A lovely tail wind since Vatersay  Camped at Horgabost and just had first shower of rain.
> Respect for riding into a headwind here there is literally no shelter.



Those my winds have been part of my cycling life for the last 21 years. 2nd van loaded up today, something about this place that I'm not going to miss.


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## Blue Hills (17 May 2019)

Winds can't be more dispiriting than the blasted fens surely? And scenery way better?


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## HelenD123 (18 May 2019)

OldShep said:


> I’ve reached Harris today day 2. A lovely tail wind since Vatersay  Camped at Horgabost and just had first shower of rain.
> Respect for riding into a headwind here there is literally no shelter.


We just missed each other (or maybe we'd recognise each other!) I set off from Vatersay last Sunday and got to Stornoway on Thursday. Now in Inverness. There were so many cyclists on the islands. I can't believe how lucky we were with the weather after Mythste's experience.


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## OldShep (18 May 2019)

I spoke too soon. The wind turned and the last 2 days have been hard. Relaxing in Heb Hostel Stornoway. Beer and food. 
Looks like my easiest way home is to get back to Castlebay Oban ferry. I see the wind is back to Sw tomorrow. Tarbert will be far enough for tomorrow. 
Circa 20 cyclists on every ferry you wonder where they all come from. A great ride but I’d turn after Callanish if I did it again


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## HelenD123 (19 May 2019)

I turned left to Callanish on the way north, went to Doune broch then found a really quiet road across the island to Stornoway. I didn't go to the Butt. I had more of a head wind going to Garve on the mainland and the road surface was much slower. Very rainy in Inverness yesterday so glad I had a hotel.


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## mythste (22 May 2019)

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_stX5AIYTLk&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1Dn_zqxGYIFAo3uZTxuSqoGrA5tKJRWtMtK-krdzzUYes5AdGFjncpPEY


a small video edit one of my fellow pootlers put together. Brought a tear to my eye.


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## OldShep (22 May 2019)

I rode Stornoway to Tarbert on the Sunday and met a Dutch couple going towards Stornoway half way and the lady was desperate for coffee. Had to give her bad news nothing is open. 
Tarbert was looking like an enforced diet as the Hotel Hebrides wasn’t doing food for non residents, the Harris Hotel was fully booked and rescue came from the pub next door which served food providing it was a Pizza. 
I also took the Uig ferry next morning and rode across Skye to Armadale for the ferry. Road didn’t seem too bad and then by ten clock I reached Portree. Traffic increased by at least tenfold and I was relieved to take the right turn for the ferry. Skye is not on my return to list. 
Took the train from Mallaig to Glasgow what an epic train journey.


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