# Raising handlebars on a road bike?



## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Can this be done qickly and easily?

I tweaked my seat height last night and raised it about an inch.

Peddalings better, but the pain in my hands was far worse riding in this morning.

Is it simply a matter of slackening an allen bolt and lifting them at lunchtime or would I need a new stem or something?

I did have a look at the Park tools site but couldn't find anything so I assume I can't.

Any advice appreciated as ever


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## John Ponting (10 Oct 2007)

Is this you new(ish) bike?

Pre-90s bikes used a bar stem that went down in to the steering tube - allen expander bolt down from the top; undo, pull up, tighten.

Then technology advanced to the modern (ahead?) type with a stem that clamps round the steerer tube. Normally the bar is set correctly and the steerer is cut down to fit. Some small adjustment can be made with spacers but quite limited. Not easy to make a frame fit if it is really a couple of cm too small for the rider. Steerer extensions are available (see evans or wiggle for e.g.s).

Every thing I've just said could be rubbish but hopefully not. I come from the era of steel frames and Cinelli bars & stems.


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Thanks for that John.

Yes, it is my new bike (an '07 model.)

It didn't look like there was any adjustment but I wanted to be sure.

I'll put up with the pain on the way home then, I think its just me as I get it on the mtb too.

I need to get some of that gel bar tape, it'll just have to wait 'till payday


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## Arch (10 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> Thanks for that John.
> 
> Yes, it is my new bike (an '07 model.)
> 
> ...



In which case, you probably need to adjust the MTB bars too... You don't have to put up with pain. If more padded bar tape doesn't help, get a replacement stem that makes it right... (I am also a quill (expander) stem person, so it's a simple matter to adjust it to just right for me, on every bike. I've never quite seen the advantage of the new sort...)


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## bonj2 (10 Oct 2007)

Arch said:


> In which case, you probably need to adjust the MTB bars too... You don't have to put up with pain. If more padded bar tape doesn't help, get a replacement stem that makes it right... (I am also a quill (expander) stem person, so it's a simple matter to adjust it to just right for me, on every bike. I've never quite seen the advantage of the new sort...)



lighter, less likely to come loose, simpler, more choice of stems/forks.


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Thanks for that, I'll look into it.

Thing is, my saddle isn't much higher than the bars, certainly not as high as most of the pictures I've seen on here are.

A few Years ago I worked on the roads for a while and I think I may have done myself some mischief as I get problems with numbness and tingling (pain may have been a bit extreme TBH) when doing lots of things.

It was just a lot more severe this morning, to the extent I couldn't use the brakes safely.

If I post a pic of my bike, would that give any ideas as to whether I need to change the stem, or whether its just me?


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## John Ponting (10 Oct 2007)

bonj said:


> lighter, less likely to come loose, simpler, more choice of stems/forks.




you are a 'senior member' while I am a mere 'member' so I should bow to you but ...

I can see no evidence of a greater choice of stem than 25 years ago when all manufacturers offered straight, angled up, angled down, adjustable angle, fixed length from 50mm to around 180mm, adjustable length, shiny, dull, black, engraved, plain.

Replacement forks have been available for at least 80 years, some even made to owners specification.

An internal expander bolt quill type stem didn't come loose very often - more the opposite with much swearing and clouting with rubber hammers when adjustment was called for.

I'm sure there is some benefit from the newer system, particularly on the competition scene, but otherwise it was a way of standardising across the industry and reducing manufacturing costs. It also helped stimulate consumer demand by giving us all something new to buy. Like most of my hobbies!!

*Still, it's all good fun and worth chatting over.*

Recently dug an old bike out of the loft and I've been drooling over the Cinelli engraving on the stem. Mind you, I also vomitted over the bars while tackling a hill that I romped up 20 years ago.

Maybe time to open my purse and get something newer and lighter with more appropriate gearing for my 60 year old legs.


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## rich p (10 Oct 2007)

One of these may ease the pain

http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=6606


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## Blonde (10 Oct 2007)

If you are at the limit of the fork (the stem is around the very top of the fork and there is no extra spacer you could remove from above the stem and place underneath the stem to raise it) then you can either try a stem with a sharper upward angle, an adjustable stem like the one above or simply get a stem raiser. They look like this:
http://www.cyclesuk.com/ViewProduct.aspx.qmap/ptId/847/pId/74856
If buying, make sure you ask for a stem raiser for an A-head type stem, not a quill stem, as you can also get raisers for quill stems but they look different and are not compatible with A-head.


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Nice link RichP, thanks for that. Pricey, but may be ideal to find the prefect position. 




> If you are at the limit of the fork (the stem is around the very top of the fork and there is no extra spacer you could remove from above the bar and place underneath the bar to raise it) then you can either try a stem with a sharper upward angle, an adjustable stem like the one above or simply get a stem raiser. They look like this:
> http://www.cyclesuk.com/ViewProduct..../847/pId/74856
> If buying, make sure you ask for a stem raiser for an A-head type stem, not a quill stem, as you can also get raisers for quill stems but they look different and are not compatible with A-head.



Thanks for that Blonde,

I'll check the existing configuration and see if there are any spacers free. I assume the spacers are those ring things, I always wondered why they were there 
Hopefully, they'll be some above the bar I can raise it with, in the short term anyway.


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## Peyote (10 Oct 2007)

I had a similar problem to yours Panter on my '05 Spesh Allez, I found simply flipping the stem over was enough to raise the handlebars a couple of cm and sort out the positioning. Could be worth a try?


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Thanks, could be 

I'll have a good look at it lunchtime (its locked away in the bike storage room at the moment) and report back 

I dunno, spacers, stem flipping, adjusters, its all a bit much for a newb. When I were a lad I'm sure the bars were just fixed, magically, in exactly the right place


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## Membrane (10 Oct 2007)

John Ponting said:


> I'm sure there is some benefit from the newer system



Afaik the main benefit of the new system is less weight (at the expense of being less adjustable). I still have the internal expander bolt type on my hybrid including a tilt adjustment joint and it weighs a lot.


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## Elmer Fudd (10 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> I dunno, spacers, stem flipping, adjusters, its all a bit much for a newb. When I were a lad I'm sure the bars were just fixed, magically, in exactly the right place



When I were a lad, they were magically fixed in the right position.








By Uncle Dennis


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Ah ha, I see 

Unfortunately, CRC don't seem to stock any Uncle Dennis's, or any Dennis's at all for that matter 

So, given the lack of the above, I've had a good look at my stem, so to speak 

It's straight so I can't flip it over. Doh!

All the spacers are under the bar, Doh!

I can't twiddle something with an allen key and just yank them up. Doh!

So, surprise surprise it comes down to unfurling the tattered wallet once again in the name of cycling.

I personally think its just me that is the problem so the gel tape would be best but I'll put a piccy up of the bike this evening and see what you good people make of the saddle/bar height, if you'd be so kind


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## Big T (10 Oct 2007)

Even though the stem is straight, if you flip it over, it will give you a couple of cms of "rise". This is all to do with the angle at which the fork steerer enters the stem. It's not 90 degrees. Difficult to explain, but try it anyway, you may be surprised.


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

That makes sense, I didn't think of that 

I'll try it when I get home


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## Chris James (10 Oct 2007)

Membrane said:


> Afaik the main benefit of the new system is less weight (at the expense of being less adjustable). I still have the internal expander bolt type on my hybrid including a tilt adjustment joint and it weighs a lot.



Are they really less heavy? I have never weighed the alternatives so couldn't say. The main advantages that I can see with my O/S aheadset vs quill stems are:

- Much stiffer (mayeb this is due to my new stem and bars being oversized?)
- Much easier to change bars

The downsides are that they are pig ugly and not as easily adjusted.


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## Tim Bennet. (10 Oct 2007)

Although many of the quoted advantages of A-head style stems may be debatable, they do have one major advantage, especially for tourists: The headsets are adjustable and servicable with just a small allen key. 

With quill stems, you needed two great big 32mm spanners and I always slightly over tightened them to make sure it did not come loose when I was away without workshop style tools. As a result the headsets always eventually became notched. I also didn't service them as much as I should, whereas now, headsets last for ever because it is so easy to keep them greased and perfectly adjusted.


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## Elmer Fudd (10 Oct 2007)

See Here or Here, slightly cheaper.


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## Membrane (10 Oct 2007)

Chris James said:


> Are they really less heavy?



IIRC my quill stem weighs approximately half a kilo. It is solid metal, aluminium for the stem itself, stainles steel for the bolts, the wedge is solid steel. This solid lump of metal sinks into the fork deeper than usually needed to facilitate raising of the bars. With the A-head system the fork extends higher, but it is hollow and it doesn't protude any higher than needed.



> The main advantages that I can see with my O/S aheadset vs quill stems are:
> 
> - Much stiffer (mayeb this is due to my new stem and bars being oversized?)
> - Much easier to change bars
> ...



Agreed on the uglyness and poor adjustability of A-head stems, but I never had any problems with stiffness or changing the bars with quill stems.


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## Panter (10 Oct 2007)

Elmer Fudd said:


> See Here or Here, slightly cheaper.



Thanks for that 

At that price I may just as well get one and know I'll get perfect positioning


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## John Ponting (10 Oct 2007)

Chris

I know I've seen this item http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=39&id=1397 on a UK site but cannot track it down right now.


Tonights backup may never get started if I don't try a bit of work soon but ... 


http://www.bonthronebikes.co.uk/513-18280

http://www.cyclesuk.com/ViewProduct.aspx.qmap/ptId/847/pId/74856

http://www.cyclesense.co.uk/products.php?plid=m14b90s89p3122

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-...steerer-to-increase-height-SEE-NOTES-3780.htm

oh well - back to the other keyboard.


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## fatfreddy (10 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> Thanks for that
> 
> At that price I may just as well get one and know I'll get perfect positioning



not necessarily ........ as you change the angle, you also change the reach. Still worth a go though. Why not try ebay? - fiddle around with angle and reach on a cheap one and then buy a fixed (lighter) stem.

I did just this to sort out the position on my wife's bike.

FF


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## Abitrary (10 Oct 2007)

You can get extenders for threadless headsets. I tried one once and my bike ended up looking like a Victorian concept bike


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## gbb (10 Oct 2007)

Similar problems for me Panter..
I flipped the stem, there can be a little benefit there...depends on your stem.

Also i undid the bar clamp bolts and 'rotated' the bars up a bit. The bars of course are still at the same height, but the hoods are now higher and marginally closer to you...i found an immediate improvement there.


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## Abitrary (10 Oct 2007)

Also, make sure your handlebars are the right width. If they are too narrow then you aren't spreading your weight


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## Elmer Fudd (10 Oct 2007)

Elmer Fudd said:


> See Here or Here, slightly cheaper.


I have seen one for about £15 somewhere, ideal if you just want something to experiment with until you've sussed out what angle you really need.
I'll see if I can find it for you.


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## Elmer Fudd (10 Oct 2007)

*Found It !!*

Yahoo! Elmer comes good


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## John Ponting (11 Oct 2007)

I was going to be really clever and suggest combing a raiser with one of the length adjustable stems that were popular in late 50s or early 60s. then had a senior moment and couldn't remember what they were called. google didn't help.

But then the name Major Taylor came to me while I was typing this.


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## Panter (11 Oct 2007)

Wow, thanks guys 

And thanks for posting all those links John, must've taken ages, appreciated 


Ok, so although I like the idea of the adjustable stem, it may change the reach depending on where I set it and therefore the extender would be the better option.

I feel the reach could be a bit longer really, but thats the problem. Being my first ever road bike I just don't know what my ideal position is yet.

When choosing the size of the bike, I was slap bang between the 50 and the 50.5. On the advice of the roadie at work I went for the smaller one with the view that I could put a longer stem on if needed. 


First off, I can't spend any money for a couple of Weeks so I get to try the free options first.

Here's my bike:







Compared to lots of pictures I've seen, my seat is relatively low to the bars anyway. Am I just being a big wuss and need to get used to it?

Incidentally, the ground the bikes on does slope a bit to the right.



The aformentioned roadie at work is on holiday at the moment but he did mention before he left that he should have a few different sized stems laying around so I may be able to experiment with the reach, but not the height but it would give me an idea.

I'm still swayed towards the adjustable stem, especially at those prices (Thanks again Elmer ) and I'm really not worried about the weight of it. A few less pies for lunch will cancel that out  

So, is my seat/bar ratio fine as it is?

p.s when on the drops, the top of my wrist makes light contact with the underside of the top bar. Sound right?


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## gwhite (11 Oct 2007)

From the image it appears that your bars are slightly below the saddle height. If this is so, and as your bike seems to use threadless forks, a stem with a slightly angled rise should put you about right.
The adjustable stems work but are pretty ugly things in my opinion.


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## Panter (11 Oct 2007)

Thanks gwhite.

The bars are below the seat by 3 or 4" I would guess.

Aren't they supposed to be though? as I say, all the pics I've seen of road bikes the bars are quite a long way below the seat.


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## John the Monkey (11 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> Aren't they supposed to be though? as I say, all the pics I've seen of road bikes the bars are quite a long way below the seat.



I wonder that myself - I ride on the drops a lot (my caliper brakes need a fair bit of force to be effective, and I don't get that from the hoods), and have my bars about level with my saddle nose. One thing worrying me about (possibly) buying a modern bike is that low bar position.


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## Blonde (11 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> I personally think its just me that is the problem so the gel tape would be best but I'll put a piccy up of the bike this evening and see what you good people make of the saddle/bar height, if you'd be so kind



It's not just you. If you aren't comfy on the bike you shouldn't have to put up with it either, but everyone is different in their size and proportions as well as their bio-mechanics, so what works for one person wont necessarily be the thing that's right for you. You may need your saddle height to be v similar to your bar height for example. There's nowt wrong with this and it doesn't mean there's something wrong with you either! No, bikes are not 'supposed to be' set up with the saddle markedly higher than the bars. They just are for those people who need to sit arse-up - especially useful for those who are racing, Time Trialing or not going far (or are sucked into the fashionable pro-racer look without thinking about how it's going to feel actually riding the thing). Most of us don't sit like this because it's not practical or comfortable - certainly not for long periods or on consecutive days on a touring or commuting bike. Bikes should be set up according to the rider proportions and comfort and the type of riding, nothing else.

It's possible that you have longer legs in relation to torso length which would mean that most bars will be too low on a standard frame with small head tube, because you'll have a lot of seat post showing/a high saddle. I am built like this and the only solution in my case (unfortunately) is to get a bike with an extended head tube/fork so that the bars are not so low in relation to my saddle height. Were you measured up for you bike? It's possible you are reaching to far forward (the top tube/stem is too long) because this can also cause similar problems to the ones you describe.

If on the other hand you suspect that you actually have a problem in your hands or the nerves leading to the hands, such as carpal tunnel syndrome you should get this looked at professionally. There have been posts on this forum by people with this condition and they can still cycle after some alterations are made to the bike.


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## Blonde (11 Oct 2007)

To the OP. That anatomic bar does look quite low to me. The drops look incredibly low - those bars have a particularly massive drop. You can get many kinds of differently shaped bars, some with short-ish or very shallow drops and some even have a shortened reach to the hoods. I prefer non-anatomical ones, with a shallow drop, myself.


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## fatfreddy (11 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> I just don't know what my ideal position is yet.
> 
> Compared to lots of pictures I've seen, my seat is relatively low to the bars anyway. Am I just being a big wuss and need to get used to it?
> 
> ...



this is the nub of the problem - trying to sort out YOUR ideal position with pictures you've seen of other bikes. What may work for others may not work for you.

If you're more concerned about how it looks rather than how comfortable it is - then it's fine as far as I can see. A bit of neck ache/wrist ache is inevitable - but don't put up with too much - if it's really hurting then something is wrong. (Nice bike BTW)

Two things to bear in mind; 

(i) pics of bikes (especially those from manufacturers) tend to have loads of seat post showing. It looks sexy and fast.

(ii) A bike set up for racing (with high seatpost relative to bars) is an extreme position. It's not designed for comfort - it's designed for speed.

Most of us want a bit of both - the bike to look good and yet be comfortable. So compromise is inevitable. For what it's worth, the tops of my bars are level with my saddle, but I have a compact frame so have loads of (carbon) seatpost showing which looks cool.

And as someone also with 60 year old legs I feel I can comment on Ahead v quill. Aheadsets are not as intuitive perhaps as a quill - but better in the long run. The bearings are much easier to adjust. You just have to know how they work first. And there's nothing worse in my book than 6" of quill sticking out of a frame. 

FF


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## Panter (11 Oct 2007)

Thanks Blonde, I had my suspicions about the seat height thing and now I know .

I wasn't measured for the bike, I didn't even want to buy a road bike 'till next spring form my LBS.
I bought this one on-line as it was such a good price. I then had to make a guess as to size with the help of the guy at work.
Its quite possible I should've got the next size up though.

So, I can now look to raising the bars without feeling that I'm doing it wrong. I think I'll wait and see what the guy at work thinks when he gets back from holiday. Although no expert, he's been into bikes for a long time and he'll probably have a good idea at a glance what route I need to take.



> It's possible that you have longer legs in relation to torso length which would mean that most bars will be too low on a standard frame with small head tube, because you'll have a lot of seat post showing/a high saddle. I am built like this and the only solution in my case (unfortunately) is to get a bike with an extended head tube/fork so that the bars are not so low in relation to my saddle height. Were you measured up for you bike? It's possible you are reaching to far forward (the top tube/stem is too long) because this can also cause similar problems to the ones you describe.



I'm actually the opposite, I have a long body and shorter legs. I just get the feeling that I should be more stretched out than I am, I feel as if the bars are a little close but then, as I say, I have nothing to compare it too.



> If on the other hand you suspect that you actually have a problem in your hands or the nerves leading to the hands, such as carpal tunnel syndrome you should get this looked at professionally. There have been posts on this forum by people with this condition and they can still cycle after some alterations are made to the bike.



I did see the docs last year about this. He said that I don't have carpal tunnel syndrome and its just one of those things. Thinking about it, maybe I should go back for a second opinion. I do get some discomfort even when typing for example and even unscrewing bottles can sometimes cause it.




> It's not just you. If you aren't comfy on the bike you shouldn't have to put up with it either, but everyone is different in their size and proportions as well as their bio-mechanics, so what works for one person wont necessarily be the thing that's right for you. You may need your saddle height to be v similar to your bar height for example. There's nowt wrong with this and it doesn't mean there's something wrong with you either! No, bikes are not 'supposed to be' set up with the saddle markedly higher than the bars. They just are for those people who need to sit arse-up - especially useful for those who are racing, Time Trialing or not going far (or are sucked into the fashionable pro-racer look without thinking about how it's going to feel actually riding the thing). Most of us don't sit like this because it's not practical or comfortable - certainly not for long periods or on consecutive days on a touring or commuting bike. Bikes should be set up according to the rider proportions and comfort and the type of riding, nothing else.



Thats reassuring, thank you 

The main use for my bike at the moment is my "get fit" commute, twice weekly at the moment.
Its a 35ish mile round trip so comfort is pretty important. Mind you, speed is too. I really want to get this commute down to an Hour to make it more viable to do more frequently.
The snag is my route crosses the North Downs and although they may be mere bumps to most people, they're a hell of a challenge for me 

Thanks for the help,


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## Panter (11 Oct 2007)

Thanks FF.

Some good points there. I think I was getting sucked into how it _should _look.

Live and learn 




> To the OP. That anatomic bar does look quite low to me. The drops look incredibly low - those bars have a particularly massive drop. You can get many kinds of differently shaped bars, some with short-ish or very shallow drops and some even have a shortened reach to the hoods. I prefer non-anatomical ones, with a shallow drop, myself.



Strangely, I don't get that much trouble in the drops and I must admit I do quite like the drop position. 
It does feel a bit close, but yesterday for example, I had quite a headwind when riding home and I was gratefull to be able to get low down. It did make quite a difference.
Mind you, my more usual position is holding the bars just short of the hoods.


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## John the Monkey (11 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> I personally think its just me that is the problem so the gel tape would be best but I'll put a piccy up of the bike this evening and see what you good people make of the saddle/bar height, if you'd be so kind



Regarding the comments about gel tape etc - I was having problems with my hands feeling ropey after riding too. I grabbed a pair of Specialized "Body Geometry Comp" mitts at lunch time, and the difference between those and my old mitts is night and day. We might not have the same problems from gripping the bars, but the BG mitts might be worth a try, if you can grab some. 

(NB, these are the middle ones in the range - the cheapest seemed not to have much more padding than my existing mitts. The BG ones have a big ulnar nerve pad, and good padding on thumb and palm).


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## Abitrary (12 Oct 2007)

I eventually feel uncomfortable on 

a) My hybrid. It feels like I am slapping an ice-cream van man around the ears... but I can't quite reach him. You know what i mean
 My road bike. They are invented for fit people as a reward for being fit. Not for people who eat ice cream

Have you tried riding hands free for a few hundred yards on a clear cycle path, with your hands behind your back as if you are about to address a school assembly, and made sure your legs are relaxing as much as they can?


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## Elmer Fudd (12 Oct 2007)

Abitrary said:


> Have you tried riding hands free for a few hundred yards on a clear cycle path, with your hands behind your back as if you are about to address a school assembly, and made sure your legs are relaxing as much as they can?



When 13,14,15, used to do that down steep hills where I lived, round corners no handed and me and me mate used to play chicken, see who hit the brakes first at the bottom of the hill as we hit the T junction.

Now I shite myself if I have to take one hand off the bars and I also struggle to look over me right shoulder without doing a "wobbly bob".


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## Abitrary (12 Oct 2007)

Elmer Fudd said:


> When 13,14,15, used to do that down steep hills where I lived, round corners no handed and me and me mate used to play chicken, see who hit the brakes first at the bottom of the hill as we hit the T junction.
> 
> Now I shite myself if I have to take one hand off the bars and I also struggle to look over me right shoulder without doing a "wobbly bob".



Serious, i honestly think if you can't ride hands off on any bike, then you've got the saddle pedal thing wrong, which will make the rest uncomfortable


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## Elmer Fudd (12 Oct 2007)

Abitrary said:


> Serious, i honestly think if you can't ride hands off on any bike, then you've got the saddle pedal thing wrong, which will make the rest uncomfortable



I agree, trust me Abe, I'm gonna start working on it !!


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## Panter (12 Oct 2007)

Abitrary said:


> I eventually feel uncomfortable on
> 
> a) My hybrid. It feels like I am slapping an ice-cream van man around the ears... but I can't quite reach him. You know what i mean
> My road bike. They are invented for fit people as a reward for being fit. Not for people who eat ice cream
> ...



Thanks Abitrary.

TBH though, if I took both hands from the bar for more than a nano second, the pain would immediately intensify and transfer itself to my face, neck, chest, then probably elbows and legs although not necessarily in that order.
I struggle to ride with just my left hand on the bar although I'm fine just holding with the Right. Strange but true 

I've never been able to do the "Look Mum, no hands" thing.

I also get pain on my hybrid, I definately have a weakness there.




> Regarding the comments about gel tape etc - I was having problems with my hands feeling ropey after riding too. I grabbed a pair of Specialized "Body Geometry Comp" mitts at lunch time, and the difference between those and my old mitts is night and day. We might not have the same problems from gripping the bars, but the BG mitts might be worth a try, if you can grab some.


Thanks John, I've had a good look at a pair of those a friend had. He raved about them and I must admit they looked pretty good.
I am going to get some, I'm just thinking of waiting 'till Spring as I don't suppose it will be too long before I'm wearing full fingered gloves and they only come in fingerless as I understand it.

I'm going to flip the stem this Weekend (once I've learned how to do it, good old Park tools will hopefully come to the rescue ) and see if that alleviates it.


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## Arch (12 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> Thanks John, I've had a good look at a pair of those a friend had. He raved about them and I must admit they looked pretty good.
> I am going to get some, I'm just thinking of waiting 'till Spring as I don't suppose it will be too long before I'm wearing full fingered gloves and they only come in fingerless as I understand it.
> 
> I'm going to flip the stem this Weekend (once I've learned how to do it, good old Park tools will hopefully come to the rescue ) and see if that alleviates it.




You can always put a pair of woolly or warmer gloves under or over fingerless ones (depending on how tight the fingerless ones are) if you need more warmth. Or a pair of mittens over them even...


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## Panter (12 Oct 2007)

That's worth a go.

I must admit I hadn't thought of that, I have large hands but woolly gloves will stretch won't they?

Those GB's are seriously thick gloves.


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## Arch (12 Oct 2007)

Panter said:


> That's worth a go.
> 
> I must admit I hadn't thought of that, I have large hands but woolly gloves will stretch won't they?
> 
> Those GB's are seriously thick gloves.



Yeah, woolly gloves can be quite stretchy. Or get someone to knit you an oversized pair. I would offer, but I've never done gloves, and by the time I'd finished, it mght be next June and a bit hot...


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## Panter (12 Oct 2007)

Thanks, I'll see what I can come up with


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## Abitrary (12 Oct 2007)

I'm not going to read this thread again or look at the original question

But have you tried loosening the bolts on the aheadset so you can point the handlbar ends upwards, and then lean into the bar ends on your shoulders, to make sure that your shoulders bones pointy bone bits are *inside* those parameters?

Too many of the raising handlebar crisis fanclub members may in reality look like the Thing from the Fantastic 4 riding around on little bikes designed for plasticine puppets in wallace and gromit movies


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## Panter (13 Oct 2007)

Abitrary said:


> I'm not going to read this thread again or look at the original question
> 
> But have you tried loosening the bolts on the aheadset so you can point the handlbar ends upwards, and then lean into the bar ends on your shoulders, to make sure that your shoulders bones pointy bone bits are *inside* those parameters?
> 
> Too many of the raising handlebar crisis fanclub members may in reality look like the Thing from the Fantastic 4 riding around on little bikes designed for plasticine puppets in wallace and gromit movies



The bars are rotated about as high as they'll go, for me anyway.

I tried them higher but if then feels as if my hands are going to slip off the bottom of the drops.


I hear your concerns with the handlebar raising, but it should only need to come up an inch or two at the most.

Thanks for the help


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## buggi (2 Nov 2007)

haven't read all this, so don't know if someone's suggested it (can't be arsed to go through all the posts sorry) but a guy i know has just put a different frame on my bike and it's got a tri-bike stem on it. you can raise it up a couple of inches. it's really good. dunno what make it is but it's got EXT Pro written on it.


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## Panter (2 Nov 2007)

Thanks for that Buggi 

I flipped the stem as suggested futher back and I'm going to wait untill I've done some more miles before seeing where to go from here.

Its still uncomfortable but I think I may be stuck with that. 

I haven't ridden for a Week now though , will be sorting that tomorrow morning. And I'll be cliplesss for the first time ever


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## Tynan (3 Nov 2007)

a small point only but an extra inch in one go for the seat post is not a tweak surely?

I thought you were supposed to raise it a little at a time to allow your body to adjust?


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