# Washing a muddy bike



## GrasB (15 Jan 2011)

So the bike is caked in mud to the point you can barely identify things like the brake callipers & derailleurs. How do you wash down the bike from there? I was wondering if something like 12v portable pressure washer running between 40-100psi would be a good bet.


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## darth vadar (15 Jan 2011)

A few people on here (including me) use one of those garden pressure hose things that you manually pump up yourself. 

They cost about a fiver.

Not too powerful and seems to do the trick.


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## ColinJ (15 Jan 2011)

darth vadar said:


> A few people on here (including me) use one of those garden pressure hose things that you manually pump up yourself.
> 
> They cost about a fiver.
> 
> Not too powerful and seems to do the trick.



That's what I use.

I think blasting mud off tyres, rims, frame and forks is fine, but you don't want to be going near any bearings or you'll risk getting water past seals and washing out the grease. I don't spray the hubs, headset or bottom bracket areas. I'm also careful not to get water down the seat tube. I'm quite careful with the chain too - lots of little bearings that you don't want to de-lube there!

When I've finished washing my bike, I can get 90+% of the water off it by repeatedly picking it up and dropping it onto its tyres from a height of about 10 cm. You can see loads of water coming off the bike when you do that. 


To finish, I usually give the chain a quick wipe-down with an oily rag.


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## GrasB (15 Jan 2011)

My current cleaning procedure is remove the front wheel, pop the bike onto a mechanics stand. Remove the cranks (yay for GXP/BB30 self extracting crank bolts), remove the chain then rear wheel. Cover the wheels & frame in degreasing snow & leave for 15 min. Then it's time to clean the chain, which I use a nailbrush dipping in a mild degreaser & leave on a clean dry rag. Now it's time to rinse down the frame & wheels which is done with a trickle of clean water out of hose pipe & various brushes to get all the snow off. With that done the chain is dipped in a pot of Finish line cross country & hung up to drip dry. Finally I move to the cranks, after taking off the chainrings I wipe down the cranks followed by the chainrings with the rag I used to suck all the degreaser off the chain with. I then use a pipe cleaner to finish off the rear derailleur & cassette before putting the bike back together sans-chain which I usually leave dripping dry for a further about 3 hours before wiping down & putting on the bike.

What failed today was the snow & rinse down. The bike was still caked in mud after leaving it to soak.


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## numbnuts (15 Jan 2011)

ColinJ said:


> That's what I use.
> 
> When I've finished washing my bike, I can get 90+% of the water off it by repeatedly picking it up and dropping it onto its tyres from a height of about 10 cm. You can see loads of water coming off the bike when you do that.
> 
> ...


That's what I do works very well  

just found these two

http://www.wessexwatershop.co.uk/product/hand-water-pump/244

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ECKMAN-12L-WH...emZ180537259625QQcategoryZ29522QQcmdZViewItem


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## Davidc (18 Jan 2011)

I normally just use a hose to shift the thick stuff, then car shampoo and a glove car cleaning thing from Asda, then hose off.

If its really disgusting (heading that way now) I take the wheels off and use a real pressure washer - with care. All headset and BB bearings are sealed these days but I do avoid directly hitting those. Even take the chain and chainrings off sometimes to give better access.

I always finish off (when dry) with funiture polish and a cloth which helps keep it clean afterwards.


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## GrasB (18 Jan 2011)

[QUOTE 1287410"]
Bloodity flip  How long does that lot take  
[/quote]
About 30-45min start to finnish, that does include the 15 min gap after snowing down the bike (which is perfect for getting in recovery food then changing into to old clothes). So it's 15-30 min of actual work depending on how muddy the ride was. The big part of the work is the chain & cassette as the residual cross country does attract dirt like no ones business, though it does keep the chain nice n' supple.

[QUOTE 1287410"]
I am in the shower within 30 minutes of arriving home, although to be honest, I have been known to hose myself down outside as well [/quote]
If I'm doing a solo run I need well over 45min before I'm cool enough to have a shower.


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## Moodyman (19 Jan 2011)

Immediatley after a ride - hose pipe and a hand brush ( the type you get with dustpan and brush)


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## rodgy-dodge (20 Jan 2011)

I'm chief Bike washer, wash off caked mud with hose and bike brush so you can get between the cogs , then a good all round clean with soapy water and sponge followed by hose then leave to dry before Lubing and oiling chain. DH tends to just hose off mud hang to dry and leave resulting in rusty cogs and chain when you go to use next!


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## monkeypony (20 Jan 2011)

I use a mobi v17 portable pressure washer. http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/mobi-v-17-item155307.html

Enough water to wash 1 VERY dirty bike so you can load it in the car and clean the bike before heading home from the trails. Also handy when you live in a flat so don't have access to an outside tap.

Well worth the cash.


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## User482 (20 Jan 2011)

Hosepipe and dustpan brush, shake off excess water, wipe and re-oil the chain, put the bike away. Job done. Don't forget to wash your shoes.


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## Muddy Ground (1 Feb 2011)

All of the above, but I also use a split-pin on the chain - just pop the chain off if it's really bad and feels rough even after a clean on the bike. Put it into an old milk-bottle, warm water + a little car shampoo, shake and rinse. Dry, job done!

May I suggest not using oil on the chain for off-road use? Wax in summer, ceramic winter seems OK for the mud we have down here in Surrey.

www.muddyground.blogspot.com

Sorry for the lame posting - us newbies have to post a few times before we can do anything fun!


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## GrumpyGregry (1 Feb 2011)

Muddy Ground said:


> All of the above, but I also use a split-pin on the chain - just pop the chain off if it's really bad and feels rough even after a clean on the bike. Put it into an old milk-bottle, warm water + a little car shampoo, shake and rinse. Dry, job done!
> 
> *May I suggest not using oil on the chain for off-road use? Wax in summer, ceramic winter seems OK for the mud we have down here in Surrey.
> 
> ...




Green oil. Biodegradable innit? 

EDIT: Love your T-shirt!


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## smithyandco (1 Feb 2011)

Currently, I just use a clean, grit free small car wash sponge and car body compatible cleaner in a clean, grit free bucket... 

That and good pat dry and WD-40 after... 

Could do with looking a decent hose/washer...


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## Muddy Ground (2 Feb 2011)

WD40 may be a bit of a no-no. Possibly an urban myth, but a motorcycle mechanic once told me that long term use degrades rubber components.... Of which we have a few on a bike. So I never really use it. It's also a bit rubbish as a lubricant, unless you get it on to your discs or pads!! If I do use it, I spray it onto a cloth first and then use that.

Squirt is biodegradable isn't it? Not sure about the ceramic, but I hardly use any and it dries... dry. Gave up on oil [real or synthetic] years ago as it is just so messy and never lasts. It also helps to have a good quality chain right from the off - XTR or Yumeya chains are worth the small additional expense.

The other thing is, don't ride through the puddles so much!

Thanks for the positive comment regarding the t-shirt! Took me a year to do as I'm not a graphic designer. I'll get some better photographs when I get time. They're just a bit of fun; I could never find any bike t-shirts that I liked and wanted something different. 

www.muddyground.blogspot.com

Remember: there is no "I" in work!


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## smithyandco (2 Feb 2011)

Yeah, I need to look into a better bike oil... It seems ok on the chain and gears which is where I mostly use it. But the application effects only last a ride or 2.


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## Muddy Ground (2 Feb 2011)

Don't worry about lube not lasting; you'll be lucky if a single application lasts more than 20 miles even in the summer's that we have, especially where you live. Winter they can be gone pretty quickly. MTB'ers aren't pedantic or OCD about oiling, it's just that we become so familiar with the routine of it. Don't bother asking your bike shop which to use - they'll push some naff oil on you. Local riders know best.... although there is an element of all off-road lubes being Snake oil!

Some swear by Rock 'n' Roll, but I've never been keen personally. The new ceramic stuff works here in the Surrey mud. 

Good luck with it all.

www.muddyground.blogspot.com


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## Merlin (3 Feb 2011)

Hmm. When I get home I hose down the worst of the loose stuff (garden hose with thumb over the end to get a jet) but I'm only concerned with function, not appearance. Then, I'm ashamed to confess, I sometimes spray a little WD40, more as a moisture dispersant than a lubricant. I got told off in my bike shop for having oil on the chain because it might get on to the brake pads. It never has but it made me more cautious. When the weather warms up a bit I'll degrease the chain and dérailleurs and look for a greener way to lubricate.


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## sleekitcollie (3 Feb 2011)

GrasB said:


> Cover the wheels & frame in degreasing snow & leave for 15 min.



ive been looking for this stuff without any luck where do i get some


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## Muddy Ground (4 Feb 2011)

Many people steer clear of degreasers, even bike ones. There's no real need for them; a bucket and sponge works well enough, with some car shampoo. Some of the products leave your paintwork dulled, can corrode aluminium or can creep between seals and strip grease from bearings. OK if you're a professional and want a nice clean bike for a photo shoot in ten minutes, but for the rest of us an extra 5 minutes with a sponge is cool.

www.muddyground.blogspot.com


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## GrasB (4 Feb 2011)

sleekitcollie said:


> ive been looking for this stuff without any luck where do i get some


Local motorfactors, on-line car washing stores etc. To use the stuff you need a half decent pressure washer with the correct attachments. I have the stuff for washing the cars but its overkill for just washing a bike.


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## postman (6 Feb 2011)

Glad i found this .Just last week i hosed down the off road bike .Dried it with a cloth .Then sprayed it with gt85 .And a thing i found in Homebase 3 in 1 with ptfe .But i have got a bit paranoid about the water getting into the BB .Should i try to find a good lube .To get inside under the frame where there is a little hole .I guess thisl ittle hole is for lubricating ?


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## Muddy Ground (7 Feb 2011)

Little holes are usually there to let gases out during welding - but if you block it, and water gets into the frame via the seatpost [which it will!] then gradually your frame will fill with water. Best left alone my friend.

GT85 and the others last much, much longer if you spray it onto a cloth and then rub the bike down. Also avoids getting the stuff on to rims and brake pads.

Halfords do a big yellow toothbrush - if you're going down the "bikewash geek" route then those things are bloomin' brilliant for cleaning your sprockets. Quick spray with de-greaser, toothbrush it all over, spray with water, muck gone. Just be careful with the degreaser.

From my youth I remember that some bikes came with a cut-off leather boot lace tied losely around the hubs - was meant to keep the hub looking clean. Or my memory may be fading on that score....

www.muddyground.blogspot.com


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## punkedmonkey (26 Feb 2011)

Muddy Ground said:


> From my youth I remember that some bikes came with a cut-off leather boot lace tied losely around the hubs - was meant to keep the hub looking clean. Or my memory may be fading on that score....



That is probably true given that when I was a about 10 my dad would put a bit of oiled string loosely around the center of the hubs of my bike to keep them clean. Was probably from the days when hubs weren't coated and were made of steel so would rust if they weren't kept clean...

On the cleaning front I generally tend to us Muc off, with a bucket and a dish washing brush. On big cleans (about every 3 months) I strip off the derailleurs, strip them back, full degrease (I have found 'Gunk Green' from halfords is particularly effective and apparently environmentally friendly), rebuild them and fully degrease the chain. Once lubed and re-setup it works like new  This does take quite a while though (I usually allow 3 hours) - maybe I am a bit OCD, but it should reduce general wear and tear and keeps everything running smoooooth.


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## Muddy Ground (27 Feb 2011)

Nothing OCD about maintaining or cleaning a bike!

If you use a good quality chain lube, and not oil, it makes life so much easier on the cleaning front. But by crickey is this wet winter testing my patience with bike cleaning. I've been mountain biking for 20 years now, out twice a week, but I'm failing to remember the trails being this muddy for so long. Here in Surrey they just don't seem to be drying out, and we're not getting any frosts either. My kids are loving it mind.

www.muddyground.blogspot.com


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