# My first project!



## JoeyB (2 Feb 2014)

My plan was to pick up a steel road bike and convert it to single speed.

I stumbled upon a Raleigh Pro Race on eBay a week ago and managed to do a deal outside of the auction. I collected the bike on Thursday evening.

I put some air in the tyres last night and they were still pumped up this morning so I took it for a quick spin up and down my road. The position is very racey compared to my Scott CR1 Pro (setup for longer distance comfort) so took some getting used to but its a very smooth ride and I can't wait to start upgrading bits.

At the moment I will leave it geared whilst I replace the usual wear and tear items like tyres, chain, cables, brake blocks etc...

So here are the pics pretty much as I bought it minus a pump and some retro light holders. Apologies for the lack of plain background blah blah blah but I'm seriously lacking space in the house at the moment!!


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## biggs682 (2 Feb 2014)

@JoeyB that looks a keeper


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## LimeBurn (2 Feb 2014)

Quite like that - dont think I could turn it into a fixie though with the race inspired paint job but would fancy it as a restoration - dont forget though that if you replace the chain etc then when you do come to fixie it then you'll probably have to replace it again to fit the new cogs.


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## SimonJKH (3 Feb 2014)

Liking the branded bottle cage


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## JoeyB (3 Feb 2014)

SimonJKH said:


> Liking the branded bottle cage



It came with a branded Raleigh pump too, but I'd already removed that. I really should wash the bike....but I like its authentic unused look lol


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## JoeyB (4 Feb 2014)

Collected new tyres today, Vittoria Rubino in black and orange...I'm hoping it works lol


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## JoeyB (5 Feb 2014)

OK I'm beginning to think I should leave this as a geared bike....what section should I move it to? lol


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## 4F (5 Feb 2014)

That looks ideal for a single speed conversion


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## JoeyB (5 Feb 2014)

4F said:


> That looks ideal for a single speed conversion



It is, but I kind of feel bad removing the groupset that seems to be working perfectly fine...


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## 4F (5 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> It is, but I kind of feel bad removing the groupset that seems to be working perfectly fine...



I take it that's a 5 speed double ? Don't feel bad, come over to the dark side


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## JoeyB (5 Feb 2014)

4F said:


> I take it that's a 5 speed double ? Don't feel bad, come over to the dark side



Nearly, 6 speed double...I think I'll do the other bits first and make a final decision when its the only thing left to do...


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## 4F (5 Feb 2014)

Brake replacement would be a good one to start with as the old Weinmanns are not the best.


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## JoeyB (5 Feb 2014)

4F said:


> Brake replacement would be a good one to start with as the old Weinmanns are not the best.



Yeah as it is the rear brake position defaults to rubbing against one side of the wheel. Any recommendations for a cheap replacement?

My eBay workstand arrives tomorrow, once I have that I'll clean the bike up and fit its new boots...then more pics!


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## 4F (5 Feb 2014)

I replaced mine with some Shimano 105's I got off e bay, you just need to make a note of the drop and purchase like for like


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## JoeyB (5 Feb 2014)

Question, if I did keep it geared.... could I buy a wheelset that takes a cassette (instead of a freewheel) and buy a new 6 speed cassette? Or do they not exist?


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## Sharky (5 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Question, if I did keep it geared.... could I buy a wheelset that takes a cassette (instead of a freewheel) and buy a new 6 speed cassette? Or do they not exist?



Look at sjs cycles. They have screw on blocks as we used to call them.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/regina-synchro-90-6-speed-index-compatible-screw-on-freewheel-prod7095/

Good luck keith


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## JoeyB (5 Feb 2014)

Sharky said:


> Look at sjs cycles. They have screw on blocks as we used to call them.
> http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/regina-synchro-90-6-speed-index-compatible-screw-on-freewheel-prod7095/
> 
> Good luck keith



It's a 6 speed cassette I'm after, at it seems most wheels are cassette compatible...well the ones I was looking at


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## dave r (6 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> It's a 6 speed cassette I'm after, at it seems most wheels are cassette compatible...well the ones I was looking at



6 speed is screw on block only I think, I'm not aware of them ever doing 6 speed cassettes, cassettes started with 7 speed.


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## Teuchter (6 Feb 2014)

For replacing the Weinmann brakes, it'll be easiest if you make sure any replacements are nutted as opposed to the modern recessed allen nut fittings. I'm planning getting a set of Tektro R359 dual pivot calipers for a similar upgrade to an old road bike of mine. These are available in either nutted or recessed fittings and a pair can be had on eBay for about £30.

Your rear dropout spacing is probably 126mm. Modern road cassette hubs are 130mm but being a steel frame, it can be cold set to permanently respace it or you can just spring it to the required width whenever you refit the wheel. Details by someone who knew a lot more about it than I ever will are here: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

If your shifters are friction shifters, you don't need to stick to 6 speed and (I think) a 7 or 8 speed cassette would be fine with the rest of your drivetrain.


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## raleighnut (7 Feb 2014)

Teuchter said:


> For replacing the Weinmann brakes, it'll be easiest if you make sure any replacements are nutted as opposed to the modern recessed allen nut fittings. I'm planning getting a set of Tektro R359 dual pivot calipers for a similar upgrade to an old road bike of mine. These are available in either nutted or recessed fittings and a pair can be had on eBay for about £30.
> 
> Your rear dropout spacing is probably 126mm. Modern road cassette hubs are 130mm but being a steel frame, it can be cold set to permanently respace it or you can just spring it to the required width whenever you refit the wheel. Details by someone who knew a lot more about it than I ever will are here: http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
> 
> If your shifters are friction shifters, you don't need to stick to 6 speed and (I think) a 7 or 8 speed cassette would be fine with the rest of your drivetrain.


If you look at the piccies it has recessed brakes on it, 105 will fit straight on.
Mind you I'd keep it geared just change the crank fer an ally one


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## biggs682 (8 Feb 2014)

@JoeyB glad to see you getting in and enjoying this , keep it geared . And get the mods to move the thread to classic & vintage

it looks like it will clean up nicely just swap calipers if you must for some modern dual pivots , why change wheels as you can get get up to 8 speed screw on blocks easily enough . if you must go cassette root the frame will spring enough for them to fit no issue at all .


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## Danny Tuff (8 Feb 2014)

Very nice! Be interested to see how it pans out. My first bike was a Raleigh!


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## JoeyB (9 Feb 2014)

Spent a bit of time on the bike this weekend, have lots going on at the moment so couldn't give it my full attention. I managed to get the wheels off and strip them down and replace the bearings and pack with new grease. They spin a lot smoother now. I also fitted new tubes and tyres. The weather was bad so still haven't been able to get outside and clean it yet, so no pics!

Next steps will probably be swap the pedals over for some SPD flats and do something with the headset / bars to get a little bit more height. I think I'll convert to an ahead headset stem also.


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## JoeyB (11 Feb 2014)

Turns out I don't have the correct tool to remove the freewheel / cassette. I have the Aldi kit, can anyone confirm if this is the case?

I think possibly the tool included in the Aldi kit is for modern cassettes , as I used it to replace my Ultegra cassette on the road bike.


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## Teuchter (11 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Turns out I don't have the correct tool to remove the freewheel / cassette. I have the Aldi kit, can anyone confirm if this is the case?
> 
> I think possibly the tool included in the Aldi kit is for modern cassettes , as I used it to replace my Ultegra cassette on the road bike.


No idea what's in the Aldi toolkit but you'll need something like this: http://www.parktool.com/product/freewheel-remover-fr-1-2

Chances are, a Shimano freewheel tool will fit (count the splines to be sure though). You can get a Cyclo one on eBay for a few quid.


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## JoeyB (13 Feb 2014)

Thanks Teuchter.

Question - If I buy these wheels, can I get some sort of spacer to fit a single cog? http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...bladed-spoke-clincher-wheels-pair/shimwhfr203


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## simon.r (13 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Question - If I buy these wheels, can I get some sort of spacer to fit a single cog? http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...bladed-spoke-clincher-wheels-pair/shimwhfr203



Answer - Yes. loads of options available, here are a couple: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VeloSolo-CNC-SINGLESPEED-Cassette-Hub-SPACER-KIT-/380267449848

http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/SKOOSSKK/on-one-singlespeed-converter-kit


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## JoeyB (13 Feb 2014)

Cog size will be my next drama lol


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## JoeyB (13 Feb 2014)

I'm a little confused as to how you get the chainline right if I use a screw on freewheel bmx cog (if I keep my standard wheels for now)...As it screws on rather than just sliding over a free-hub, can you still just use spacers on the rear to get the alignment right or do you sort the chain line elsewhere?


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## simon.r (13 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> I'm a little confused as to how you get the chainline right if I use a screw on freewheel bmx cog (if I keep my standard wheels for now)...As it screws on rather than just sliding over a free-hub, can you still just use spacers on the rear to get the alignment right or do you sort the chain line elsewhere?



If you use a BMX cog you can't make any chainline adjustments at the rear, so you'll need to get the correct BB axle length. You can also make minor adjustments by using washers with the chainring bolts though realistically this will only get you 3 or 4mm of adjustment.

Edit - Sheldon explains it better than me http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html


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## JoeyB (16 Feb 2014)

Well I finally got out for a ride on this today. Love it!

I purposely didn't change gear for most of the ride (other than to check they all work) to see how I'll get on when I single speed it.

It's a lot more agile than my carbon bike, and a lot quieter!

I definitely need wider handle bars and the brakes are not very accessible so that needs sorting. Other than that I'm really happy with this bike. I really do need to get used to the 'racey' geometry, my hands were aching through the extra weight going through them, but I'm guessing thats normal?


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## biggs682 (19 Feb 2014)

@JoeyB to single speed exsisting wheels you will need lbs to re dish and space rear wheel to give you correct chainline , shouldnt cost more than £15

glad you enjoying it , it gets addictive be warned


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## JoeyB (20 Feb 2014)

biggs682 said:


> @JoeyB to single speed exsisting wheels you will need lbs to re dish and space rear wheel to give you correct chainline , shouldnt cost more than £15
> 
> glad you enjoying it , it gets addictive be warned



OK I went to the LBS just now (with the bike) and they said a redish won't achieve what I'm looking to do?? He said a redish will just move the rim line but won't do anything for chain alignment when I change to a single speed sprocket... have i missed something or did I ask for the wrong thing?

He said my best bet would be to buy a single speed wheel....?


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## fossyant (20 Feb 2014)

The LBS is right. A hub designed for a screw on freewheel, then the thread is too far 'in' for a single speed sprocket to line up the chain perfectly.


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## JoeyB (20 Feb 2014)

So am I out of options on the current rear wheel?


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## biggs682 (20 Feb 2014)

fossyant said:


> The LBS is right. A hub designed for a screw on freewheel, then the thread is too far 'in' for a single speed sprocket to line up the chain perfectly.



my lbs have done it loads of times for me , last time was last week .

never had any issues either long term reliability


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## JoeyB (20 Feb 2014)

biggs682 said:


> my lbs have done it loads of times for me , last time was last week .
> 
> never had any issues either long term reliability



My LBS said redishing the wheel will only realign the rim for instance if its not passing through the brakes centrally...he said it wont make any difference to where the hub locates and therefore no change to chainline...which I guess kind of makes sense


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## biggs682 (20 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> My LBS said redishing the wheel will only realign the rim for instance if its not passing through the brakes centrally...he said it wont make any difference to where the hub locates and therefore no change to chainline...which I guess kind of makes sense



my understanding is the idea is to keep the rim central in the frame but move the hub outwards to help achieve chainline , sometimes a narrower bottom bracket spindle along with a single ring crankset is required .

the above along with spacers on the rear axle will give you a good chainline , if i get chance 2 moro will get some pics done of latest bike just finished .


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## JoeyB (20 Feb 2014)

biggs682 said:


> my understanding is the idea is to keep the rim central in the frame but move the hub outwards to help achieve chainline , sometimes a narrower bottom bracket spindle along with a single ring crankset is required .
> 
> the above along with spacers on the rear axle will give you a good chainline , if i get chance 2 moro will get some pics done of latest bike just finished .



Thanks, much appreciated.

I read that you can get some adjustment by changing bottom bracket, so I understand that fine. Its just the rear setup that is confusing me a bit, especially the use of spacers etc.


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## biggs682 (21 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Thanks, much appreciated.
> 
> I read that you can get some adjustment by changing bottom bracket, so I understand that fine. Its just the rear setup that is confusing me a bit, especially the use of spacers etc.


hopefully the pics will help later


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## JoeyB (21 Feb 2014)

biggs682 said:


> my understanding is the idea is to keep the rim central in the frame but move the hub outwards to help achieve chainline , sometimes a narrower bottom bracket spindle along with a single ring crankset is required .
> 
> the above along with spacers on the rear axle will give you a good chainline , if i get chance 2 moro will get some pics done of latest bike just finished .



I think the penny just dropped but look forward to pics. 

So you use a spacer on the non hub side to shift the hub over and then you redish the wheel to get the rim running back in line between the brakes etc...?


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## biggs682 (21 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> I think the penny just dropped but look forward to pics.
> 
> So you use a spacer on the non hub side to shift the hub over and then you redish the wheel to get the rim running back in line between the brakes etc...?


bingo


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## JoeyB (21 Feb 2014)

So why couldnt the LBS work that out! lol I go to them 'cos they're supposed to be the experts...


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## biggs682 (21 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> So why couldnt the LBS work that out! lol I go to them 'cos they're supposed to be the experts...



who knows ? try a different one @JoeyB


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## JoeyB (21 Feb 2014)

Saw your pics on Facebook, I think I'll print them off and take them to the LBS….then go elsewhere lol


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## JoeyB (22 Feb 2014)

Well I went down the road to a different LBS.....jackpot! They used to be a Raleigh Gold Service Centre (or something along those lines). I was lucky enough to be served by the owner and spent about 15mins just talking about my bike and it's background. He said it was around the £450 mark when new although it does only have entry level components. 

He then took my downstairs into the workshop and showed me an old Corsair Carlton that a customer has brought in for work. Really friendly chap and exactly what I've been hoping to find from an LBS.

I spotted some seconds drop bars and a stem, so I picked those up along with some brake pads.

He knew exactly what I was talking about with the redishing of the wheel and use of spacers and will do the work for about £15. Happy with that!


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## biggs682 (22 Feb 2014)

@JoeyB thats a result then


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## JoeyB (24 Feb 2014)

Rode it to work this morning, boy are the brakes bad lol.

Fitted the replacement Clark pads when I got to the office, we'll see how it improves things when I go home for lunch.


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## biggs682 (24 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Rode it to work this morning, boy are the brakes bad lol.
> 
> Fitted the replacement Clark pads when I got to the office, we'll see how it improves things when I go home for lunch.


in single speed or geared format ?


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## JoeyB (24 Feb 2014)

biggs682 said:


> in single speed or geared format ?



Its still geared. Although I don't bother changing gear, too much effort lol.

I'll sort the final swap over last, I want to sort some other bits first and the LBS were low on staff at the moment so he said if I waited two weeks it would be turned around in a day (wheel re-dish). That time frame suits me tbh


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## biggs682 (24 Feb 2014)

@JoeyB been on my latest steed today a nice Carrera Kinetic


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## JoeyB (24 Feb 2014)

biggs682 said:


> @JoeyB been on my latest steed today a nice Carrera Kinetic



Where do you find all these bikes?? ha!


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## JoeyB (24 Feb 2014)

Is it the pink / grey frame colour?


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## 4F (24 Feb 2014)

@JoeyB Have you still got the Weinmann brakes on it ?


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## JoeyB (24 Feb 2014)

4F said:


> @JoeyB Have you still got the Weinmann brakes on it ?



Yes, and they are still shocking! Need to sort something...


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## raleighnut (24 Feb 2014)

t least the frame is set up for recessed brakes still wouldn't single or fixie it though but each to his own.


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## biggs682 (24 Feb 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Is it the pink / grey frame colour?


yes it is


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## JoeyB (28 Feb 2014)

Well I was going to leave the wheelset for the time being but I might have some funds to address this now. I was thinking some Shimano R501 wheels as they seem good VFM at the moment. I assume they will be better than what I have?


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## thegravestoneman (2 Mar 2014)

I would change the brake blocks for a start they were never much kop and the stopping will be dramatically improved. If you want to go fixed I think you would be getting a cheapy rear off ebay (Raleigh do them from about £35.00 and I raced on one last year with no issues) rather then messing about with redishing an old rim with probably seized spoke nipples. you can take the spacers off the one side to put on the other if you must once the block is off this way you don't make the axle wider. I don't think the bike would have ever reached £450 as it is only the frame main tubes in 501 which wasn't that good anyway. It wouldn't have been a bad bike in its day but certainly would not have been to high up the Raleigh tree, not to say it won't be a bad ride when done. good luck and enjoy what ever you decide.


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## thegravestoneman (2 Mar 2014)

also with that chain set you get a choice of 4 positions for the chosen chain ring as they are slightly dished and can go either way and either side on the spider so this gives you a bit more flexibility on alignment for the single speed.


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## JoeyB (3 Mar 2014)

Cheers for the info. Brake blocks changed, no apparent difference but not sure if they need bedding in?

The original value doesn't really interest me, I love riding it....that's what counts.


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## JoeyB (24 Mar 2014)

Nothing much has changed on the bike since the last update but I have purchased a quinn / ahead adapter, a new stem and a set of wider handlebars. I will shortly pick up some bar tape and then I can go about fitting it all.

Oh, and I also have a Brooks B17 enroute thanks to @biggs682 

Once the next round of parts are fitted I'll get some more pics!


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## JoeyB (26 Mar 2014)

I have now taken possession of a gorgeous looking Honey B17 saddle. I also popped into my new favourite LBS earlier and booked the bike in for a rear wheel redish on the 14th April. So now I've committed myself to the single speed conversion! Just need to get a rear cog, crank and chain before then.


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## JoeyB (26 Mar 2014)




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## JoeyB (31 Mar 2014)

Can someone tell me what type of BB I have when looking for a new crank? Is it a JIS type?


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## Sharky (31 Mar 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Can someone tell me what type of BB I have when looking for a new crank? Is it a JIS type?


Well worth letting the lbs supply and fit. Mine did one for about £30 all in. With compatibility issues, type, length etc, takes the stress out of it.

Cheers keith


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## JoeyB (31 Mar 2014)

Sharky said:


> Well worth letting the lbs supply and fit. Mine did one for about £30 all in. With compatibility issues, type, length etc, takes the stress out of it.
> 
> Cheers keith



Hmm thats part of the appeal of doing as much myself as possible. Is there something wrong with me? lol


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## Sharky (31 Mar 2014)

You're doing a grand job. Stick to it. In my case, I was doing an upgrade, changing chain set for something completely different. I'd already taken a punt, with a bb in a certain length, but was having problems removing one of the old bits. Had all the right tools, but not the enough strength. So I gave up and took it to the lbs, along with the bb I'd bought.

Turns I'd bought the wrong length bb any way and they fitted one of theirs.

Good luck with your project.

Cheers keith


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## JoeyB (31 Mar 2014)

Cheers Keith! I'm hoping I don't need to change BB but we'll see when it comes to fitting the crank! I'm going to take a punt on an eBay jobby for now just to get me going. I can always upgrade later to something nicer. I just need to get riding!!


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## JoeyB (3 Apr 2014)

Might have just bought some Shimano R500 wheels….at a very good price too


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## biggs682 (3 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> View attachment 40818


i recognise that box


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## young Ed (3 Apr 2014)

excellent! 
the LBS redishing the new r500?

also out of interest what is better about ahead headset/stem rather than quill?
Cheers Ed


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## JoeyB (3 Apr 2014)

young Ed said:


> excellent!
> the LBS redishing the new r500?
> 
> also out of interest what is better about ahead headset/stem rather than quill?
> Cheers Ed


No I'll cancel the LBS booking now, no need to redish a free hub wheel can just use spacers. 

I prefer the ahead style stem and gives more options for height / angle adjustment in my opinion.


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## JoeyB (4 Apr 2014)

Well I took a punt and ordered a 46t front crank, and an 18t rear cog. Lets see how that goes...


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## young Ed (4 Apr 2014)

say sorry to the LBS on behalf of a random 15 year old on the internet! 

once forks are installed you have next to no adjustment height wise with a ahead stem but on a quill stem you have lots whenever you want
and as for angle yes the ahead stem does allow you to flip it upside down so you have 2 angles
Cheers Ed


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## JoeyB (5 Apr 2014)

Made good progress today. Just waiting for crank, chain and rear cog to arrive. Need to get bar tape too.. And ideally some new brakes before the tape goes on


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## Andrew_Culture (6 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Made good progress today. Just waiting for crank, chain and rear cog to arrive. Need to get bar tape too.. And ideally some new brakes before the tape goes on



What are you doing for brakes? I'd advocate modern brakes as oldies can be a bit scary if you're used to dual-pivot.


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## JoeyB (6 Apr 2014)

Yes the weinmanns are shocking! Id like to source some cheap 105s or similar.


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## young Ed (6 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Yes the weinmanns are shocking! Id like to source some cheap 105s or similar.


105's are under £50 for a pair wherever you go so i say go 105
i rode someone else bike for 25 odd miles with full 105 group set and the brakes were well adjusted with good clean pads and they were great! 
Cheers Ed


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## Sharky (6 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Yes the weinmanns are shocking! Id like to source some cheap 105s or similar.


 
Rode with Weinmanns 501 for most of my early racing days. Used to think they were the best you could buy, but compared with today's dual pivot, they are terrible.
Cheers Keith


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## JoeyB (6 Apr 2014)

Anyone got any pointers on how old I can go for 105's before they no longer fall into the 'modern' category?


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## Andrew_Culture (6 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Anyone got any pointers on how old I can go for 105's before they no longer fall into the 'modern' category?



The issue you'll have is the drop. If you're putting modern 700c wheels on an old imperial frame modern brakes won't reach the rims, you'll need long reach / deep drop brakes. That nice @dktd has just found some at a reasonable price, maybe he'll bimble along and give you the low-down.


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## JoeyB (6 Apr 2014)

Andrew_Culture said:


> The issue you'll have is the drop. If you're putting modern 700c wheels on an old imperial frame modern brakes won't reach the rims, you'll need long reach / deep drop brakes. That nice @dktd has just found some at a reasonable price, maybe he'll bimble along and give you the low-down.


Bike had 700c wheels fitted as standard, and I've just replaced them with Shimano R500s


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## Andrew_Culture (6 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Bike had 700c wheels fitted as standard, and I've just replaced them with Shimano R500s



Job's a goodun then


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## JoeyB (6 Apr 2014)

So can I go for any age 105 brakes or should I stick to the last few year models?


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## Andrew_Culture (7 Apr 2014)

I've got some Radius brakes you can have for free if you want to keep the budget small.,


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Andrew_Culture said:


> I've got some Radius brakes you can have for free if you want to keep the budget small.,



Thanks for the offer, most kind! Are they better than Weinmann?


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## Andrew_Culture (7 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Thanks for the offer, most kind! Are they better than Weinmann?



I would say so, they're coming off my best bike and I'm only replacing them because someone kindly gave me some 105 brakes


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Andrew_Culture said:


> I would say so, they're coming off my best bike and I'm only replacing them because someone kindly gave me some 105 brakes



Perfect. If you are sure then I'll gladly accept! Just let me know how much postage is etc

I'll PM you now.


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

About time I posted some pics of the weekend work!

Sorry for the busy backdrop, hopefully the pics are OK!

Bike started the day looking like this:

















First job, chain off. Followed by wheels...











RD next...






Then FD... starting to look cleaner already











Now the front end...






Pile of parts building up...






Test fitted my Ahead adaptor, all looks good











New bars next...


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Bars fitted...followed by levers. I don't think they are quite level yet so might re-address that after a test ride for position preference etc

















Next for my bargain wheelset. By chance I saw a link on Facebook to someone selling off Geoff Shergold's old new stock. I quick trip to Southampton and £50 later I had these..complete with rim tape and QR skewers.






Forgot to take a pic of the rear wheel fitted, there it is...over there






Getting there






Crank set next, at this point I was about to get the hammer out but then remembered I had a tool for the crank too, jobs a good'n
















I quick hit with a hammer and screw driver and the lockring came off without drama, its a bit dirty in there





















Quick dip in brake cleaner sorted the grim
















Bearings greased up and BB refitted. Cleaned the frame up a bit as well


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Test fitted the rear wheel, went on with a bit of persuasion.






Tires fitted






The final parts dump






The fallout (not too bad for me)






How the day finished:






Can't wait to ride it!!

And my favourite mod of the day?


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

To do list as it stands:

Fit front crank, rear cog and new chain (in the post)
Replace brakes (thanks Andrew!)
Replace brake cables and sleeves
Fit new saddle (have to wait until next week as technically an anniversary present from the wife lol)
Choose bar tape and fit... I want to go for orange but wife says should be black. I can't decide now! Help!
Ride it, enjoy it.


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## Andrew_Culture (7 Apr 2014)

I love the look of modern wheels on old frames, looks brilliant!


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Ooh my drivetrain just turned up all at once...from three different suppliers lol


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## John the Canuck (7 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Yes the weinmanns are shocking!..... Id like to source some cheap 105s or similar.



hi...interesting thread. i'm learning a lot here....

please help the uninitiated
i have Weinmann 500 brakes on my Peugeot - not ridden yet.! - but to be fitted with koolstop pads

what is ''much better' (mechanically.?) about 105's


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## Andrew_Culture (7 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> Ooh my drivetrain just turned up all at once...from three different suppliers lol
> 
> View attachment 41698



Crank looks nice, where was it from?


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Andrew_Culture said:


> Crank looks nice, where was it from?



Its only a cheap £13 jobby from eBay. Close up it doesn't look that pretty haha. It'll do for now to get me going, I didn't want to spend loads incase I don't like the gearing.

This one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191112931350?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

Couldn't resist having a quick fettle at lunch... front crank fits, as does the rear cog unsurprisingly


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2014)

I'll sort the chain out later tonight...I may even sneak the Brooks saddle on for a quick pic then take it off again lol


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## JoeyB (8 Apr 2014)

Fitted the chain this morning, first couple attempts to get chainline right looked like this:









Then I settled with this:






Does that look OK??


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## 4F (8 Apr 2014)

That looks fine Joey, looking good (would look even better if it was fixed rather than SS )


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## JoeyB (8 Apr 2014)

4F said:


> That looks fine Joey, looking good (would look even better if it was fixed rather than SS )


Maybe the next one :-)

I've got the bug now!


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## JoeyB (8 Apr 2014)

@4F

Do you have to use a special fixed hub rear wheel for a fixed setup? Could I use a screw on cog on my old freewheel hubbed rear wheel?


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## 4F (8 Apr 2014)

@JoeyB No you need a specific hub / wheel Have a look at these for a right steal.....


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## Sharky (8 Apr 2014)

JoeyB said:


> @4F
> 
> Do you have to use a special fixed hub rear wheel for a fixed setup? Could I use a screw on cog on my old freewheel hubbed rear wheel?



A track hub has a dual threaded section, with the outer threads in the opposite direction for a lock ring. Your old wheel if only threaded on one side, won't take a lock ring. The wheels in the post above are good value @ £99, but might have to add spacers to make up the width from 120mm.

As long as you keep a rear brake, you can ride without a lock ring, but any severe back peddling could cause the sprocket to unwind.

Enjoy what you have done so far and look out for Project N+1

Well done
Keith


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## dave r (8 Apr 2014)

I can't vouch for the wheels on this site but the pedals and chain I have brought from here have been good, and as a wheel set to get you started the price aint bad

http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/wheels.html


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## fossyant (8 Apr 2014)

You don't need a lock ring if you don't intend skidding and have two brakes. I've only recently fitted a lockring after 5 years as my new wheels came with one !


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## oldstrath (9 Apr 2014)

dave r said:


> I can't vouch for the wheels on this site but the pedals and chain I have brought from here have been good, and as a wheel set to get you started the price aint bad
> 
> http://singlespeedcomponents.co.uk/wheels.html


I've used one of their 'Premium wheels' (Quando hub) for a couple of winters, no significant issues with it. Needed a bit of retruing on arrival, but that could have been due to the courier's less than careful handling, and had no problems since then. Not the smoothest hub ever, and not the best reputation, but it gets me to work and back (probably do about 150 miles a week on that bike)


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## JoeyB (10 Apr 2014)

Well after breaking the pinch screws on my front brakes whilst fitting new cable, I picked up a couple more today from my LBS.... £2 each! Impressed they actually had them though, they did say they don't sell too many any more.

Assuming I don't break this set I just need some bar tape now!


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## JoeyB (10 Apr 2014)

Cobbled a front brake together and fitted the cheapo plastic pedals I had spare. Then couldn't resist a quick spin up and down the garden... IT ONLY BLOODY WORKS!

Front crank needs tightening up and stem is slightly off center but apart from that is super smooth and quiet. Position is much nicer now wider bars and more upright stem have been fitted. Still racier than my road bike tho so that's good. I have a feeling the gearing is gonna man my legs up a bit aswell lol!


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## biggs682 (12 Apr 2014)

@JoeyB when you are ready to start a fixie project give me a shout as i have nice retro frame that would be just the job


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## Nigel182 (13 Apr 2014)

Great thread and a real nice ride you've got there JoeyB
I'm going a similar route as the Doc's have now told be no more Fixed Gear riding for me so over to single speed.
I've just won a similar 12spd Raleigh from the 'Bay but will be using a few of the fixed gear parts off my current soon to be skid for parts Fixed Gear and a new Freewheel 
Had a Raleigh Road Bike as a kid so think I must be regressing.


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## Andrew1971 (15 Apr 2014)

Now you can enjoy the fruits of your labour. Its a great buzz when it all works as is should :-) and a good looking bike too.


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## kloeshuman (16 Apr 2014)

Your 46-18 gearing should be fine, I run a 45-17 . I had picked up a double road crank that runs a hollow tech bb, and it worked out just fine. I changed out the double rings for a 45t and set the ring on the inside so it lined up easier.


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## JoeyB (21 Apr 2014)

Oh no... I've just been looking at bar / stem / seat post options (unsure about the black and the seat post needs sorting) and I've just come across the Ritchey Classic 2013 lineup. If I buy all three that would be more than the entire project has cost me!

Must resist...


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## JoeyB (21 Apr 2014)




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## JoeyB (25 Apr 2014)

In an attempt to match the Brooks Honey saddle (without spending almost £40 on Brooks tape!) I have just purchased some Fizik bar tape in Brown Honey...

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/fizik-superlight-classic-handlebar-tape/

I've read its a close match, but not exact. That'll do !


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## JoeyB (16 May 2014)

Update.... Riding single speed is awesome!

That is all.


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## jack smith (11 Aug 2014)

Got a photo of it all finished? Im very tempted to make a fixie


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## JoeyB (11 Aug 2014)

jack smith said:


> Got a photo of it all finished? Im very tempted to make a fixie


I realised today I never posted one did I?!

I'll get something uploaded tomorrow


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## biggs682 (12 Aug 2014)

JoeyB said:


> I realised today I never posted one did I?!
> 
> I'll get something uploaded tomorrow


we have been waiting all this time


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## JoeyB (12 Aug 2014)

Still some bits to finish like brakes, levers and cables but there's no rush as it just about stops as it is lol


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

After 2 years of being rather busy I finally got round to fitting 105 brakes to this bike. 

Aaand the pads seem to rub on the tyres slightly... doh!!

I guess I need long drop calipers?


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## Drago (1 Apr 2017)

If its just the tiniest bit of contact you can shave a contour on to the brake block with a sharp blade.


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

Drago said:


> If its just the tiniest bit of contact you can shave a contour on to the brake block with a sharp blade.


I've rotated pad as one side already seems to have that. It's not ideal though, hardly any contact.


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)




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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

Happy with levers though and hidden cable routing (one side done below)


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## simon.r (1 Apr 2017)

Yep, looks as if you need long reach calipers.


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## Sharky (1 Apr 2017)

JoeyB said:


> View attachment 345106


I think your pads are upside down? Is this intensional? If it was, also check the direction of the grooves.


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

Sharky said:


> I think your pads are upside down? Is this intensional? If it was, also check the direction of the grooves.



Yep read above, for now I've rotated them as they clear better that way round. 

I probably won't connect rear brake until I've sourced a long drop replacement.


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## simon.r (1 Apr 2017)

I've just fitted some of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/..._dt|pcrid|161824956629|pkw||pmt||prd|556853UK to a bike. Not recommending them as I've not ridden them properly yet, but they get decent reviews.


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## raleighnut (1 Apr 2017)

Be ideal with 27" wheels.


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

raleighnut said:


> Be ideal with 27" wheels.



Sorry lol


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

simon.r said:


> I've just fitted some of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/miche-performance-57mm-drop-brake-caliper-set/rp-prod152803?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-TB-SE-Shopping QLB Generic Tablet&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|s57KUOuSP_dt|pcrid|161824956629|pkw||pmt||prd|556853UK to a bike. Not recommending them as I've not ridden them properly yet, but they get decent reviews.



My 105 brakes are 57mm as far as I can tell...so need something with more drop :/


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## JoeyB (1 Apr 2017)

JoeyB said:


> My 105 brakes are 57mm as far as I can tell...so need something with more drop :/



Actually, just found the original ad from which I bought the brakes. They are 105 5700 and when I google those they all seem to be 49mm drop. So perhaps I do have an option with 57mm calipers.


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## JoeyB (7 Apr 2017)

simon.r said:


> I've just fitted some of these: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/miche-performance-57mm-drop-brake-caliper-set/rp-prod152803?gs=1&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-TB-SE-Shopping QLB Generic Tablet&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|s57KUOuSP_dt|pcrid|161824956629|pkw||pmt||prd|556853UK to a bike. Not recommending them as I've not ridden them properly yet, but they get decent reviews.



You ridden on these yet? I think I'll get some...


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