# The motor vehicle questions and answers thread



## Accy cyclist (18 Nov 2019)

I don't want to start a thread about certain types of cars,or driving standards. I'd like one for CC members to enable them to ask sensible questions about mainly car maintenance and the upkeep of cars. I have a problem...i think. My car has electric windows that dip an inch when i open the door and go back in place when i close the door. This action is to allow for the door windows not being framed at the top,so if the windows didn't dip the doors wouldn't open...so i've been told. My question/problem is that from past experience winding down electric windows when it's below freezing means a broken winder motor or cable costing hundreds of pounds to replace. If i open my car door when it's below freezing will the window attempt to dip an inch, causing the motor to blow if the glass is frozen to the rubber around the frame? Surely the makers of the car will have thought of this as it's not just a case of don't open the windows when it's freezing and below, it means if they haven't thought of it, then on freezing and below freezing days you cannot open the doors of this particular make of car.


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## ClaireSaud (18 Nov 2019)

I’ve owned a couple of cars with this type of window. We just gently poured lukewarm water around the top seal of the door when de-icing the car. The window dropped fine with no issues each time.


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## screenman (18 Nov 2019)

Spray some de-icer on and it will seep through and melt the ice, or as the above post says.


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## Gunk (18 Nov 2019)

I’ve had a BMW convertible and a couple of Mini’s which have this feature and have never had a failure due to freezing temperatures


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## Accy cyclist (18 Nov 2019)

Thanks for the replies so far. If i pour lukewarm water over the rubber surround yes it will make it safe to open the window, but when i get back to my car it'll most likely have frozen again.

I looked up my problem on the internet,but i couldn't find the answer.I have to drive somewhere in the morning and i just do not want to end up blowing two window winder motors,if it's frosty as i think it has to be!


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## ClichéGuevara (18 Nov 2019)

Could you not just move somewhere warmer?


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## ClaireSaud (18 Nov 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Thanks for the replies so far. If i pour lukewarm water over the rubber surround yes it will make it safe to open the window, but when i get back to my car it'll most likely have frozen again.


If you are de-icing your car and then leaving it some time, then yes. We would do this and then head straight out to work and it was never a problem. You can always look gummi pflege. It is highly regarded and is a silicone.


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## Accy cyclist (19 Nov 2019)

ClaireSaud said:


> If you are de-icing your car and then leaving it some time, then yes. We would do this and then head straight out to work and it was never a problem. You can always look gummi pflege. It is highly regarded and is a silicone.


I've looked it up..... *Gummi Pflege is*_ a special rubber treatment that conditions rubber weather seals on car doors, windows and trunks reducing squeaks, rattles, wind noise and potential water leaks._

Wouldn't the glass still stick in freezing conditions though,even if the rubber surround is well lubricated?


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## Drago (19 Nov 2019)

Accy, wind your window down, use a toothbrush to clean and dry the channel in which it moves. Get a stick of Gummi Pfledge (honest, claire isnt pulling your leg) and moisten the rubbers. That'll prevent it sticking or freezing. On cars with a conventional window surround spray the channels with silicone dry lube.


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## Phaeton (19 Nov 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I looked up my problem on the internet,but i couldn't find the answer.


If you've searched & can't find the answer then it can't be a problem can it, everybody knows the answer to every problem is listed on the Internet


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## Gunk (19 Nov 2019)

Well a chance to put it to the test this morning-1.5 here in Oxford brrrrrrrr!


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## Smudge (19 Nov 2019)

How do i stop spiders squatting in my door mirrors ?.... I evict them, they move right back in, and continue webbing the place up again. They also hang their little spider arses out of the wing mirror and crap down the door.


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## Levo-Lon (19 Nov 2019)

Wiper motors and window motors dont blow when frozen, the power is cut to the motor so they dont blow.

Manufacturers know this and build in fail safe electrics to protect the components.
Cleaver people these car builders. 
So worry not Accy


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## Accy cyclist (19 Nov 2019)

Drago said:


> Accy, wind your window down, use a toothbrush to clean and dry the channel in which it moves. Get a stick of Gummi Pfledge (honest, claire isnt pulling your leg) and moisten the rubbers. That'll prevent it sticking or freezing. On cars with a conventional window surround spray the channels with silicone dry lube.


I'm in dire straights! i've had to cancel my appointment. The ones i was supposed to be seeing were understanding when i told them my car was 'frozen over' (i didn't tell them about the windows) and it's just too risky even if it wasn't, to walk on the ungritted path/road to get to where it's parked. If i were to buy this Gummi Pfledge it'll take days to arrive. I just can't believe that BMW didn't think about this problem when designing their windows!!


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## Drago (19 Nov 2019)

They did - that's why when you pay BMW for a major service one of the items is to clean and treat the rubbers with a similar concoction. One application on good condition rubber lasts a year or more.

Fred in a Shed couldn't care less about such time wasting niceties, and will do the bare minimum to stop you coming back and complaining, and that's why they charge less.


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## Accy cyclist (19 Nov 2019)

meta lon said:


> Wiper motors and window motors dont blow when frozen, the power is cut to the motor so they dont blow.
> 
> Manufacturers know this and build in fail safe electrics to protect the components.
> Cleaver people these car builders.
> So worry not Accy


Yeah,i've thought about that,but if the windows don't dip automatically when frozen, surely it means you can't open the doors to get in the car? I just don't want to risk it. i'm going to phone the garage/car sales i bought it off and ask their advice. The car is still under warranty,so i don't think they'll fancy having to replace two window motors if they were to blow.


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## Drago (19 Nov 2019)

Warranty wont cover the effects of nature, lack of maintenance, or inadequate design.


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## screenman (19 Nov 2019)

Not forgetting on hot days glass expands, maybe they will not drop enough then, I move hundreds of cars each year with this type of window in all sorts of weather, never once had a problem.


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## Accy cyclist (19 Nov 2019)

I've just phoned the garage. They said to spray some de-icer around the rubber/frame before opening the door. I'm still not convinced. I'm just not going to attempt opening the door(s). I'm going to ask another BMW Mini owner how they manage.


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## screenman (19 Nov 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I've just phoned the garage. They said to spray some de-icer around the rubber/frame before opening the door.



I remember somebody with 47 years of motor trade experience saying that yesterday, he was more than likely ignored though.


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## Accy cyclist (19 Nov 2019)

screenman said:


> I remember somebody with 47 years of motor trade experience saying that yesterday, he was more than likely ignored though.


Do you mean don't use de-icer?


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## classic33 (19 Nov 2019)

Smudge said:


> How do i stop spiders squatting in my door mirrors ?.... I evict them, they move right back in, and continue webbing the place up again. *They also hang their little spider arses out of the wing mirror and crap down the door.*





Spoiler: https://www.copesan.com/technical-updates/safe-spider-poop/



Beware spider poop!


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## fossyant (19 Nov 2019)

It will be fine, it's designed to open even if frozen. I just tip a 6 pint milk bottle full of warm tap water over my car windows. 6 pints is more than enough to warm the surrounding surfaces up without freezing again - if you use too little, it will freeze.

Your windows are the least problem with a Mini. I know two people's cars that were right lemons - my sister's was always in the garage, and a friends Cooper S was always breaking with major engine issues - ended up as scrap - shame, it WAS a lovely looking car.


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## fossyant (19 Nov 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Do you mean don't use de-icer?



I never use de-icer. Just warm water or a scraper.


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## fossyant (19 Nov 2019)

The correct answer is, cycle there with ice tyres ! 👅


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## Accy cyclist (30 Nov 2019)

Well i found out what happens in freezing weather to those dipping windows...the hard way! Last night i tried to fire up the sludgy diesel at minus 5 C. I tried the battery too much,then it died. The windows did dip,but when i shut the door they didn't go back up. Then fool/tool me tried again to fire the car up this afternoon. Why would a flat battery charge itself up you may ask. Yes i know they don't,unless the engine's running but i believe in miracles and i hoped one would happen with my battery. Anyway,it didn't and to make matters a lot worse the driver's door window slipped half way down! Don't panic man i thought, so i phoned the garage up where i bought the car from.He's a decent chap and knows i panic,so he talked calmly on the phone saying the window would go back up when the battery had enough charge in it to move the windows up and down and he'd be there after he closed his garage,with his battery starter thingy. With that attached to the terminals it fired up no problem,with the window going back up to add to my luck. So yes i was right i'd say. BMW just didn't quite suss out that leccy windows that move a centimetre when opening the door,are crap in freezing conditions!


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## keithmac (30 Nov 2019)

You need a new battery, or glow plugs, or both! Our 2l diesel fires up no worries at -10..


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## Accy cyclist (30 Nov 2019)

keithmac said:


> You need a new battery, or glow plugs, or both! Our 2l diesel fires up no worries at -10..


I think I turned the ignition on before the glow plugs warmed up. Does that make sense? I remember my VW Golf years ago where you had to wait a few seconds before fully turning the ignition key.


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## keithmac (30 Nov 2019)

What year is it and does it have a glow plug light on dashboard?.

Ours preheats the glow plugs when you unlock and open the drivers door iirc.


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## Gunk (30 Nov 2019)

I used to like the glow plug light, My Mk 7 Golf as you say is now all automatic


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## keithmac (30 Nov 2019)

If you're too quick with ours it says "Start Pending" on dash but only seen that twice.


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## Drago (30 Nov 2019)

It's awful in this cold weather, what with having 2 cars designed to shrug off Scandinavian winters


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## fossyant (30 Nov 2019)

New battery Accy. A cold weather snap shows up a tired battery ! Should fire up as in summer.


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## dave r (30 Nov 2019)

Gunk said:


> I used to like the glow plug light, My Mk 7 Golf as you say is now all automatic



I remember the glow plug light from the small lorry, 3.5 tons, 12 foot flatbed and 6 wheels, I used to drive for the engineering company, get in switch on and by the time I was belted in the light had gone out ready to start.


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## Bazzer (30 Nov 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I think I turned the ignition on before the glow plugs warmed up. Does that make sense? I remember my VW Golf years ago where you had to wait a few seconds before fully turning the ignition key.


??
My 18 year old Golf MkIV TDI fires as soon as I turn the key. Even when the car is frosted over.


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## roadrash (30 Nov 2019)

As above @Accy cyclist , tired battery, replace and forget , end of problem


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## screenman (30 Nov 2019)

roadrash said:


> As above @Accy cyclist , tired battery, replace and forget , end of problem



That made me laugh, this is Accy we are talking about, it will never be the end of the problem.


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## Drago (30 Nov 2019)

Bazzer said:


> ??
> My 18 year old Golf MkIV TDI fires as soon as I turn the key. Even when the car is frosted over.


The problem with my Golf is that it was on fire. Ruined the ownership experience.


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## Salty seadog (30 Nov 2019)

Smudge said:


> How do i stop spiders squatting in my door mirrors ?.... I evict them, they move right back in, and continue webbing the place up again. They also hang their little spider arses out of the wing mirror and crap down the door.



My car has several spidey residents normally. Webs everywhere. Wing mirrors are a favourite but also the rear bumper. Occasionally inside. I like them, they're cool dudes.


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## Bazzer (30 Nov 2019)

Drago said:


> The problem with my Golf is that it was on fire. Ruined the ownership experience.


Ah, but the glow plugs, (assuming it was an oil burner) would have been toasty.


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## Drago (30 Nov 2019)

It was petrol, and went up like someone had poured petrol over it.


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## Nibor (30 Nov 2019)

Should have stuck with the little Far Eastern beast


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## Drago (30 Nov 2019)

I stick with the neutral Swedes now. Less likely to commit atrocities against me.


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## sheddy (30 Nov 2019)

No need to worry about damaging electric windows in cold weather.
Simply open the tailgate and enter the vehicle from the rear.


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## Gunk (30 Nov 2019)

Drago said:


> The problem with my Golf is that it was on fire. Ruined the ownership experience.



I’m on my 16th Golf, great cars. 👍


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## Drago (1 Dec 2019)

I only had the one, and as aforementioned above it didn't end will.

I don't have a downer on Golfs, but prior to my Mum retiring ffromher position a lower ranked director at the UK importer, Volkswagen Group, (VAG was the UK importer prior to that, and they folded in 1992) she never rated their reliability as anything to boast about, and she attributed the 'reliable'image to decades of clever marketing. Having said that, my eldest Daughter had several on the trot, an R32 and 2 different generations of R with no real hassle before she defected to Porker.

This is well worth a read. In many cases it turns public perception of reliable models and brands right on its head.

https://www.reliabilityindex.com/

Me? I dont care, so long as it starts when it should and is, hopefully, minimally polluting.


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## Accy cyclist (1 Dec 2019)

Nibor said:


> Should have stuck with the little Far Eastern beast


Sometimes I think that,but folk thought it was a pensioner's car.


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## Accy cyclist (1 Dec 2019)

I daren't go near it now. If i have to buy a new battery so be it,it's not the end of the world. My main concern is/are those windows! i blew three window motors on that old diesel Golf i had by touching the wind down button by mistake. Every time it cost about £200 to be repaired. I've asked about 5 Mini owners now how they go on with their dip when door opens windows. Seriously not one can give an answer! I'm met (when i ask them) with a blank expression followed by 'Er i don't know'.


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## screenman (1 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I daren't go near it now. If i have to buy a new battery so be it,it's not the end of the world. My main concern is/are those windows! i blew three window motors on that old diesel Golf i had by touching the wind down button by mistake. Every time it cost about £200 to be repaired. I've asked about 5 Mini owners now how they go on with their dip when door opens windows. Seriously not one can give an answer! I'm met (when i ask them) with a blank expression followed by 'Er i don't know'.



The reason no answer, there is no problem.


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## Nibor (2 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Sometimes I think that,but folk thought it was a pensioner's car.


So you bought a hairdressers car?


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## Accy cyclist (2 Dec 2019)

Nibor said:


> So you bought a hairdressers car?


Silly boy! You of all people should know that hairdressers cars are shocking pink in colour,with false eyelashes attached to the headlights!


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## Nibor (2 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Silly boy! You of all people should know that hairdressers cars are shocking pink in colour,with false eyelashes attached to the headlights!
> View attachment 495128


Yes and minis


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## Accy cyclist (2 Dec 2019)

Nibor said:


> Yes and minis


If you say so R!


*“Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you down to their level and beat you with experience.”*

― Mark Twain


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## Gunk (2 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I daren't go near it now. If i have to buy a new battery so be it,it's not the end of the world. My main concern is/are those windows! i blew three window motors on that old diesel Golf i had by touching the wind down button by mistake. Every time it cost about £200 to be repaired. I've asked about 5 Mini owners now how they go on with their dip when door opens windows. Seriously not one can give an answer! I'm met (when i ask them) with a blank expression followed by 'Er i don't know'.



We’ve owned three Minis and never had an issue with the windows. The ‘er I don’t know’ probably means that they have not had a problem either.


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## Accy cyclist (2 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> We’ve owned three Minis and never had an issue with the windows. The ‘er I don’t know’ probably means that they have not had a problem either.


Were they ok mechanically wise? Also....were they Coopers or Ones and petrol or diesel?


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## twentysix by twentyfive (2 Dec 2019)

Go with the flow @Accy cyclist


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## Accy cyclist (2 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> We’ve owned three Minis and never had an issue with the windows. The ‘er I don’t know’ probably means that they have not had a problem either.


Were they ok mechanically wise? Also...were they Coopers or Ones and were they petrol or diesel?


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## fossyant (2 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Were they ok mechanically wise? Also...were they Coopers or Ones and were they petrol or diesel?



They all use the same windows and motors, so doesn't matter, other than the Cooper S is fast !


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## Gunk (2 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Were they ok mechanically wise? Also...were they Coopers or Ones and were they petrol or diesel?



The R56 Mini’s are bullet proof, ours is an R55 Clubman Cooper Diesel. 11 years old now drives and looks like a three year old car.


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## Phaeton (2 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> The R56 Mini’s are bullet proof, ours is an R55 Clubman Cooper Diesel. 11 years old now drives and looks like a three year old car.
> 
> 
> View attachment 495209


Apart from their gearboxes & clutch


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## Drago (2 Dec 2019)

And all the engine ancillary and anti pollution systems.


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## Gunk (2 Dec 2019)

Problem is that people neglect them and don’t service them properly. Forget the service intervals that Mini suggest, they need an annual oil service whatever the mileage.

I’ve had three R56 Minis and all have been 100% trouble free. Remember the early cars are now 13 years old.

Most people that knock them have never owned one.


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## mickle (2 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> I’m on my 16th Golf, great cars. 👍
> 
> 
> View attachment 494922


They can't be that good if you've had to replace them 15 times!!


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## Gunk (2 Dec 2019)

mickle said:


> They can't be that good if you've had to replace them 15 times!!



Bought my first in 1982, for 10 years both my wife and I had Golfs

If you really want to lose the will to live I could list them all!


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## DaveReading (2 Dec 2019)

Phaeton said:


> Apart from their gearboxes & clutch


It's a Mini - that's traditional.


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## Accy cyclist (2 Dec 2019)

Well,it fired up tonight. It hasn't run since Saturday afternoon when the bloke from the garage started it with his power unit thingy. I would've run it yesterday,but it was about minus 3 C,so after Friday's caper i thought it best to leave it till today knowing it had to 'warm up' tonight to 6 C. Anyway,as i turned the ignition key after letting the glow plug lights go out,it struggled for a second or so then it fired up. I drove it for about 5 miles(locally within walking distance, in case it cut out and i had to walk home). The windows did their dipping up and down thing,but i didn't try and put them down, as i just don't trust electric windows!


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## Drago (3 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> Bought my first in 1982, for 10 years both my wife and I had Golfs
> 
> If you really want to lose the will to live I could list them all!


In the 90's it came out that the VW board had been lying about the organisations involvement in atrocities in WWII - many of those same people are still on the board. 

Then in 2015 it emerged that VW considered the death toll an acceptable cost of doing business rather than invest profits into developing genuinely lower emissions vehicles.

And you still buy their products? 

People moan about Israel's bully boy tactics with the Palestinians, or the violence and oppression of apartheid back in the day, yet they buy a VW product without giving it a second thought.


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## Salar (3 Dec 2019)

Phaeton said:


> Apart from their gearboxes & clutch



And if you are unlucky? A boot full of water due to faulty seals and a rattling creaking windscreen comes as standard with many Clubmans. 

I know I had one.


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## Venod (3 Dec 2019)

Drago said:


> In the 90's it came out that the VW board had been lying about the organisations involvement in atrocities in WWII - many of those same people are still on the board.
> 
> Then in 2015 it emerged that VW considered the death toll an acceptable cost of doing business rather than invest profits into developing genuinely lower emissions vehicles.
> 
> ...



Do you know the history of Daimler- Benz ? that became Mercedes, who produced the Smart car.

https://www.splicetoday.com/consume/mercedes-and-the-third-reich


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## Saluki (3 Dec 2019)

I had a mini with the drop down windows. A vauxhall too actually. I never had a problem. I didn’t stop driving it in the cold weather. I had a car cover to put over, in the bad frosty weather. I don’t use it here as car parked on the road and someone will just Nick the cover. 
Mini make a good car. It will be fine. I think you are worrying unduly on this.


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## gbb (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Well,it fired up tonight. It hasn't run since Saturday afternoon when the bloke from the garage started it with his power unit thingy. I would've run it yesterday,but it was about minus 3 C,so after Friday's caper i thought it best to leave it till today knowing it had to 'warm up' tonight to 6 C. Anyway,as i turned the ignition key after letting the glow plug lights go out,it struggled for a second or so then it fired up. I drove it for about 5 miles(locally within walking distance, in case it cut out and i had to walk home). The windows did their dipping up and down thing,but i didn't try and put them down, as i just don't trust electric windows!


As said earlier, a tired battery will nearly ALWAYS show itself as the cold weather starts. I had one and managed to nurse it through that winter and once spring arrived, it lasted without any nursing all the next spring and summer, like there was nothing wrong with it.
But cars are so much more dependent on a good battery now, theres so many systems on a car that rely on it so I'd just bite the bullet and buy one.
5 miles isnt far enough to replace the energy you used starting it, probable lights, demisting etc etc at this time of the year, it's more like a 20 mile steady drive, preferably on a dual carriageway, minimum of ancillary equipment being used ( lights heaters etc) to give a battery a chance to properly recharge. Have you a battery charger ? Can you hook it up and charge overnight ?, that would extend the life a good deal.


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

gbb said:


> As said earlier, a tired battery will nearly ALWAYS show itself as the cold weather starts. I had one and managed to nurse it through that winter and once spring arrived, it lasted without any nursing all the next spring and summer, like there was nothing wrong with it.
> But cars are so much more dependent on a good battery now, theres so many systems on a car that rely on it so I'd just bite the bullet and buy one.
> 5 miles isnt far enough to replace the energy you used starting it, probable lights, demisting etc etc at this time of the year, it's more like a 20 mile steady drive, preferably on a dual carriageway, minimum of ancillary equipment being used ( lights heaters etc) to give a battery a chance to properly recharge. Have you a battery charger ? Can you hook it up and charge overnight ?, that would extend the life a good deal.


As i said earlier,i rushed it on Friday night by not letting he glow plugs warm up before turning the ignition. A short run must put a decent amount of charge in the battery as after the short one i gave it on Saturday (about 2 miles) the car started after sitting all day Sunday in minus temperatures. I'm going to try it soon. If i have any further problems i will buy a new battery. I just don't want to buy one yet if the current one is still ok.


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## Smokin Joe (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> as i just don't trust electric windows!


I had far more trouble with wind up windows than I ever have with electric.


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## fossyant (3 Dec 2019)

You've been warned Accy - you said it was a bit sluggish yesterday. The battery will most likely do it again during the next cold snap.

As for not trusting electric windows, really ? 17 year old Yaris when we sold it, never an issue with leccy windows. My current almost 18 year old Nissan, no issues with electric windows. They just work.

The only issues I've known with windows was my sister's manual ones. She'd never lubed the window seals with silicon, so one day, winding a stiff window, the glass popped out of the runners. Garage fixed it, but didn't lube rubbers, happened again. I fixed it and lubed, and worked ever since.


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## Phaeton (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> As i said earlier,i rushed it on Friday night by not letting he glow plugs warm up before turning the ignition. A short run must put a decent amount of charge in the battery as after the short one i gave it on Saturday (about 2 miles) the car started after sitting all day Sunday in minus temperatures. I'm going to try it soon. If i have any further problems i will buy a new battery. I just don't want to buy one yet if the current one is still ok.


It isn't it's foobared, accept it buy a new one, move on, it will continue working for a while if the weather stays mild, but as soon as another really cold snap comes along it will fail again. I would also say that if you don't want to follow advice on what you should do, then what's the point in asking the question?


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

On my walks i spotted a bloke doing up a 'vintage car'. I got talking to him. It's a 1935 Morris. He's doing the body and the wiring up and hopes to have it on the road by next summer. I've taken with his permission,quite a few pics on my phone of the car. I wish i could post them on here,but i'm not clued up how to. Anyway,i noticed the windscreen actually opens up on hinges. Can any of you remember the old Minis, Austins etc where the rear windows opened up on hinges? So simple and no chance of them breaking down!!


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## Salar (3 Dec 2019)

Do without a few pints and just buy a new battery.


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

Phaeton said:


> f you don't want to follow advice on what you should do, then what's the point in asking the question?


Because advice isn't always right. I've had one bad experience with the car and battery. I think it was mainly my fault. As said,i'll see how it goes and take it from there.


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

Salar said:


> Do without a few pints and just buy a new battery.


A few pints?! More like a Paul Gascoigne type bender!

I've just typed in the make.model,year,etc of my car. Here's what they recommend. https://www.eurocarparts.com/car-battery

One's over 3 hundred quid!!!


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## Phaeton (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Because advice isn't always right.


So why ask again, if you know best why ask somebody else?

Just put a branded battery on a Mini week before last it cost £65 with a 3 year warranty,


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

Phaeton said:


> So why ask again, if you know best why ask somebody else?
> 
> Just put a branded battery on a Mini week before last it cost £65 with a 3 year warranty,


So you have a Mini?


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

Phaeton said:


> So why ask again, if you know best why ask somebody else?
> 
> Just put a branded battery on a Mini week before last it cost £65 with a 3 year warranty,


So you have a Mini?


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## Bazzer (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> A few pints?! More like a Paul Gascoigne type bender!
> 
> I've just typed in the make.model,year,etc of my car. Here's what they recommend. https://www.eurocarparts.com/car-battery
> 
> One's over 3 hundred quid!!!


Eurocarparts are IME expensive. They have frequent sales and which often bring the price of car parts down to what others sell at. My latest experience was last month when I was looking at brake pads for Mrs B's car. Even Halfords were cheaper for the same pads, (which were on a "flash sale" at Europarts) and that was before any discount from BC/CUK.
For example the first battery on your hyperlink is shown as £65.99 at Europarts. The identical battery is £41.47 here and from a quick look, there are even cheaper ones elsewhere.
And yes, you can have batteries delivered to your home. My last two arrived this way.


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## Phaeton (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> So you have a Mini?


Nope I'm not that daft


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## Phaeton (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> So you have a Mini?


Nope I'm not that daft


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## Phaeton (3 Dec 2019)

Bazzer said:


> Europarts are IME expensive. They have frequent sales and which often bring the price of car parts down to what others sell at. My latest experience was last month when I was looking at brake pads for Mrs B's car. Even Halfords were cheaper for the same pads, (which were on a "flash sale" at Europarts) and that was before any discount from BC/CUK.
> For example the first battery on your hyperlink is shown as £65.99 at Europarts. The identical battery is £41.47 here and from a quick look, there are even cheaper ones elsewhere.
> And yes, you can have batteries delivered to your home. My last two arrived this way.


Wouldn't touch a Lion battery even with your barge pole


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## Bazzer (3 Dec 2019)

Phaeton said:


> Wouldn't touch a Lion battery even with your barge pole


I wouldn't on any car which was a keeper, but it was a convenient compare.


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## glasgowcyclist (3 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Well,it fired up tonight. It hasn't run since Saturday afternoon when the bloke from the garage started it with his power unit thingy. I would've run it yesterday,but it was about minus 3 C,so after Friday's caper i thought it best to leave it till today knowing it had to 'warm up' tonight to 6 C. Anyway,as i turned the ignition key after letting the glow plug lights go out,it struggled for a second or so then it fired up. I drove it for about 5 miles(locally within walking distance, in case it cut out and i had to walk home). The windows did their dipping up and down thing,but i didn't try and put them down, as i just don't trust electric windows!



The battery for my Fabia (satrt/stop engine) was over £200 from the Skoda dealer or £140 (inc delivery) from Tayna Batteries. Although it was cheaper it was a higher specification to the original and was the same make and model, just upgraded.

Borrow a battery charger/analyser to check your battery's condition. Some can be saved but others are beyond repair and will let you down when you can least afford it.

Find your battery here:
https://www.tayna.co.uk/Mini-Mini-Car-Battery


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## Jody (3 Dec 2019)

Bazzer said:


> For example the first battery on your hyperlink is shown as £65.99 at Europarts. The identical battery is £41.47 here and from a quick look, there are even cheaper ones elsewhere.



The discount code takes that battery to £42.89 available for pick up in store @ ECP. No postage charges to add or waiting for delivery.


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## Jody (3 Dec 2019)

glasgowcyclist said:


> Borrow a battery charger/analyser to check your battery's condition.



Call into Halfords and they will do a free drop test on the battery.


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## Accy cyclist (3 Dec 2019)

Are 'free' battery tests reliable though? I've yet to be told that my battery is ok and i don't need to buy one from the place doing the test. Meaning even if the battery's ok,they'll tell you it isn't, to get you to buy one of theirs.


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## Phaeton (3 Dec 2019)

No difference to any other test you ask somebody to carry out


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## Bazzer (3 Dec 2019)

Research before you go, such as https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/check-a-car-battery Then you know what results should be expected and how they compare to what you see,


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## fossyant (3 Dec 2019)

Jody said:


> Call into Halfords and they will do a free drop test on the battery.



Probably Accy's best option as he doesn't have to buy one. If the car keeps starting sluggishly on cold mornings, but is OK say on warmer days, or afternoons, the battery is past it's best. You'd be amazed at what you thought was fine, compared to when a new battery is fitted.


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## gbb (3 Dec 2019)

A few basics to check. Have you checked the battery terminals are clean and secure. No corrosion, furry residue.
Can you see any earth straps, heavy gauge straps going from the engine to the bodywork or from the starter maybe to the bodywork. If any earth is poor, it will give you problems. Wiggle them about, make sure they're tight....assuming you want go get hour hands dirty.


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## screenman (3 Dec 2019)

How old is the battery? would be a sensible starting point.


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## keithmac (3 Dec 2019)

Halfords sell Yuasa batteries at very keen prices, the best you can buy imho.

Our Kuga had a Varta Enhanced Flooded Battery from new, Ford OEM unit. Apparently Varta make Bosch batteries, I've had good experiences with Bosch Silver.


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## Gunk (3 Dec 2019)

Varta make the BMW/Mini OEM batteries


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## Accy cyclist (6 Dec 2019)

Why would you want this? https://www.cargurus.co.uk/Cars/l-U...Ch2rzgAjEAEYASABEgIoWfD_BwE#listing=135752321
Thirty grand for a square shaped,dated looking gas guzzler! It must be like driving a bus, when trying to drive it around narrow over crowded roads. Any of you fancy owning one? I mean chucking hard earned money at an old one,not winning the national lottery and buying a new one just because you can.


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## Pale Rider (6 Dec 2019)

I was once walking along Great Marlborough Street in Soho, London, when a Silver Spirit stopped across the pavement impeded my progress.

Exercising my licence to interfere, I asked the guy what was afoot.

He said he had just reversed out of a bomb site car park, the car had stalled and would not restart.

Interestingly, it was stuck in drive because the gear change is a spindly column stalk which only works electrically.

A flat battery meant you could move the stalk all you liked but it would not change gear.

A guy in a Mercedes stopped to help.

He had some good, sturdy jump leads, which was good because many thinner ones would have just overheated - common problem when I was doing breakdowns.

He also had a battery big enough to start his Stuttgart taxi.

Next task with the Roller was to find its battery - it was in the boot under a few bits of board and several inches of Axminster.

Once connected, the big old beast fired up nicely.

It was like a waking giant, with the rear easing upwards - the rear suspension is from Citroen, as evidenced by a licence plate under the bonnet.

The owner was relieved and pleased.

He invited me to call into his sandwich bar around the corner any time, not that I ever did.


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## Drago (6 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Are 'free' battery tests reliable though? I've yet to be told that my battery is ok and i don't need to buy one from the place doing the test. Meaning even if the battery's ok,they'll tell you it isn't, to get you to buy one of theirs.


Depends how intelligent the tester and how honest the garage. A proper drop test with the results present by a reputable emporium should be fine.


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## Bazzer (6 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Why would you want this? https://www.cargurus.co.uk/Cars/l-U...Ch2rzgAjEAEYASABEgIoWfD_BwE#listing=135752321
> Thirty grand for a square shaped,dated looking gas guzzler! It must be like driving a bus, when trying to drive it around narrow over crowded roads. Any of you fancy owning one? I mean chucking hard earned money at an old one,not winning the national lottery and buying a new one just because you can.


A matter of personal choice. There are cars such as the Nissan Puke I think are fugly and wouldn't give drive space to even if I was given one. But the volume of them seen on the road suggests my tastes differ from quite a number of others.


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## Drago (7 Dec 2019)

Daughter #3 has a Nissan Joke. I cant fit in the drivers seat with the door closed.


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## neil_merseyside (7 Dec 2019)

Drago said:


> Daughter #3 has a Nissan Joke. I cant fit in the drivers seat with the door closed.


Isn't that saying something about you though, I'm 6'2" and 15 stone and fit in either front seat easily.


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## Levo-Lon (8 Dec 2019)

neil_merseyside said:


> Isn't that saying something about you though, I'm 6'2" and 15 stone and fit in either front seat easily.




Think Shrek with frilly pink bits


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## Drago (8 Dec 2019)

neil_merseyside said:


> Isn't that saying something about you though, I'm 6'2" and 15 stone and fit in either front seat easily.


I'm 6'4", a whisker under 19 stone, and have a 53" chest. Bigger than the average England Rugby player, bit still smaller than the likes of Hafthor Bjornsson.

I fit in my Smart Fortwo a treat, but any passengers bigger than my 8 year old daughter are an impossibility. Conversely, my XC90 swallows my muscled build with ease and gives a beautifully comfortable, languid driving experience.


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## Accy cyclist (14 Dec 2019)

Have any of you tried one of those car condensation bags you put on your dashboard? I sat in my car tonight and felt a damp backside when I got out. I don't want to buy one and find they don't work.


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## Smokin Joe (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Have any of you tried one of those car condensation bags you put on your dashboard? I sat in my car tonight and felt a damp backside when I got out. I don't want to buy one and find they don't work.


It takes more than condensation to get the seat wet. I'd suggest you have water getting in somewhere.


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## smokeysmoo (15 Dec 2019)

Regarding your battery Accy, our Kia wouldn't start in the summer, it just clicked when you tried to start it.

A neighbour gave me a jump start and it fired immediately, so I knew it was the battery, gave it a decent run and all seemed fine.

I did call in Halfords and they did a battery test, said it was OK but could do with a full charge.

I don't have a battery charger so just tried to avoid short trips and all was well.

Then, first proper cold morning a few weeks ago and waddya know, wouldn't start. Mrs Smoo had used it the day before, (also a pretty cold day), started it at our house, took the dog to the vets, 3/4 mile, then started it again and came home, so that must have finally killed it.

I was at work so couldn't help but we have Green Flag breakdown so she rang them. They came within 45 minutes, started it with a boost pack, let it run for 10 mins, tested it and it was knackered.

He had a battery on his van, (063), fitted it, 3 years warranty, and all for about £80, I'd recommend Green Flag if anyone's after breakdown cover, but not the RAC but that's another story.

Could I have bought a battery cheaper? Yes. Was I happy with the price paid, the service received, and the fact I didn't have to fanny about when I got home from work? Completely.

The moral of the story is, if I'd changed the battery when it first played up then Mrs Smoo wouldn't have been stuck that morning, but I rode my luck and paid the penalty.

Also, don't go off the price on the Euro Car Parts website, I think they just make them up for a laugh sometimes, but be careful with ECP anyway, they sell a great deal of $hite quality parts IME.

Stick a battery on it and go from there, I'm sure it will be fine.

Also a quick question, does the Mini diesel have a Diesel Particulate Filter, (DPF)? If so then you need to be giving it a good run to clear it out regularly, Motorway driving for about 20 mins was always the rule of thumb with Peugeot/Citroens with DPF's, that allows the system to 'regenerate'. Otherwise the filter will get choked if your only pottering round in it and it will go into limp mode.
(FYI your Mini may very well have a PSA engine).


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

If it’s an R56 Mini then it’s a 1.6 PSA engine. They’re a good robust unit but need oil changes much more frequently than BMW suggest as the engine oil also lubricates the turbo charger.

They do also have a particulate filter so a weekly warm thrash is a good idea.


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## presta (15 Dec 2019)

meta lon said:


> Wiper motors and window motors dont blow when frozen, the power is cut to the motor so they dont blow.
> 
> Manufacturers know this and build in fail safe electrics to protect the components.
> Cleaver people these car builders.
> So worry not Accy


Once when I switched the wipers on in my father's car I saw the arms flex and strain, but they didn't sweep because the blades were frozen to the screen, so I switched them off again. When I went out and pulled them off the screen, they snatched from my hands and then did a single sweep before stopping. The point is that the flex in the mechanism had allowed the motor to rotate just enough to disengage the parking switch, so had I not recognised what was happening and just assumed they were 'off', the motor would have burnt out.


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

Smokin Joe said:


> It takes more than condensation to get the seat wet. I'd suggest you have water getting in somewhere.


Rain doesn't leak in,but it does get in when the doors are open due to the car being narrower at the top than the bottom. The roof isn't wide enough to keep rain from falling onto the seats. When it's peeing down you have to get in and out asap! I think BMW should've put pull out canopies on the roof to remedy this!


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

presta said:


> the motor would have burnt out.


I remember the old British Leyland Minis and their burn out wiper motors. I think everyone i had that'd been made in the 1970's had to have a motor from the scrapyard fitted after the original stopped working.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Have any of you tried one of those car condensation bags you put on your dashboard? I sat in my car tonight and felt a damp backside when I got out. I don't want to buy one and find they don't work.


Hi Accy. If you're car is suffering from general dampness don't bother wasting your money on those condensation bags. Buy a big bag of cat litter instead and either fill an old sock up with it or fill an open flat container and place it in one of the footwells. Much cheaper and just as effective buddy


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## screenman (15 Dec 2019)

Unless the vehicle is airtight you will be trying to dry out the whole atmosphere, not a bad idea seeing the amount of flooding in theses parts.


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## Drago (15 Dec 2019)

...or try moving the lever from recirc...


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## screenman (15 Dec 2019)

Drago said:


> ...or try moving the lever from recirc...



Love that one, it is a very common sight in this area, I have often gone up to people in car parks and tell them why they cannot see out of any windows.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

I also switch the aircon on too during the colder months. Tuning the heater on full whilst the aircon is on will dry the air out and will clear steamed up window faster. It also helps in keeping the seals in the air con system from drying out which in turn prolongs regasing intervals.


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## screenman (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> I also switch the aircon on too during the colder months. Tuning the heater on full whilst the aircon is on will dry the air out and will clear steamed up window faster. It also helps in keeping the seals in the air con system from drying out which in turn prolongs regasing intervals.



When I push the demist button on mine it brings the aircon on, in a VW I owned the aircon was on by default, you had to turn it off.


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## Andy_R (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Have any of you tried one of those car condensation bags you put on your dashboard? I sat in my car tonight and felt a damp backside when I got out. I don't want to buy one and find they don't work.



Have you tried


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Buy a big bag of cat litter instead and either fill an old sock up with it or fill an open flat container and place it in one of the footwells.


Yes,but suppose when i open the car door a cat sneaks in and has a big shoot in my car!!


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> I also switch the aircon on too during the colder months. Tuning the heater on full whilst the aircon is on will dry the air out and will clear steamed up window faster. It also helps in keeping the seals in the air con system from drying out which in turn prolongs regasing intervals.



You should leave air con on permanently. It’ll keep the humidity levels down during the cooler weather and stops the car misting up.


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## screenman (15 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> You should leave air con on permanently. It’ll keep the humidity levels down during the cooler weather and stops the car misting up.



Sadly it increases fuel consumption, also I find leaving it in too long dried my eye's and throat out. Mine does get used daily though.


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## Smokin Joe (15 Dec 2019)

screenman said:


> Sadly it increases fuel consumption, also I find leaving it in too long dried my eye's and throat out. Mine does get used daily though.


Jesus, I bloody hate aircon. Some shops seem to have turned to the max, after two minutes my eyes are streaming and I'm coughing like a chimney and have to leave.


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

Well the battery's definitely fecked! I was intending going down my local pub for a pint,but i turned the key and i could tell straight away it wasn't going to start. I didn't keep trying it like i did 2 weeks ago,as that time i completely flattened the battery and that's when the windows wouldn't go back up. As i closed the door they went back up that centimetre or so. *Is it worth putting the battery on charge or not? *I'm just glad it wouldn't start where i normally park and not after i'd been in the pub. At least it's safe where it is. I was in it last night,but that frost during the night must've flattened it.


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

I might as well buy a battery from the car accessory place in town. I think that if i ask them nicely they'll bring it up to where my car is and maybe even fit it for me. I could shop around for 'bargains', but it'd take days for one to be delivered. I can't go and get one myself for obvious reasons.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

*Bite the bullet and get another battery Accy.. Life's to short to be messing around trying to resurrecting a duff battery. 
I've always found varta/bosch silver seal battery to be good. I've always had big old diesel engined cars and they've never let me down with these fitted. *


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Bite the bullet and get another battery Accy..


I might even bite the bullet twice and ask the bloke who owns the BMW repairs and MOT place across the road to order me one. No one round here uses his garage because he takes our parking spaces,but maybe it's about time i did. After all i couldn't be any closer to a garage that specialises in BMW and Mini repairs.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

Another thing to bear in mind is do not persist in trying to start the car hoping it might start. On some cars a flat battery can scramble the rolling code between your key and immobiliser causing you grief when a new one is fitted. Leave it well alone until a new battery is fitted buddy. As said this may not be the case with your car but don't chance it just in case


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> As said this may not be the case with your car but don't chance it just in case


That's what i thought. if it doesn't start the first time why would it start the second, then the third time i told myself. I'll go out in an hour and see if those windows haven't dropped. The driver's one did 2 weeks ago after i tried the ignition the following day. Again....why would it start the second and third time if not the first.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

I remember a few years back i had a parastical drain on my car. I checked everything to find it with no joy what so ever. Eventually after some head scratching i finally tracked it down to the boot light. It would not switch off once the boot was closed. Obviously this was hidden from sight once shut. The boot light switch turned out to be faulty. Eversince that I've always removed the boot light bulb from cars so it never happens again in my cars


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

Battery's can lose alot of cranking power when the temperature drops. Also on modern cars if the battery drops below a certain voltage the electronics will stop a car stone dead from turning it over to protect the delicate electronics. Sometimes when the weather warms up the battery will recover enough to allow the car to start. Years ago a failing battery on an old car could be heard by the the starter motor turning slower and slower. Nowadays with protection circuitry of modern cars they either start or or they don't.
I'm sure your woes are just a simple knackered battery. If there was problem with the alternator you would of no doubt of seen warning lights on the dash


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Eversince that I've always removed the boot light bulb from cars so it never happens again in my cars


You've got me thinking now that it could be *my* boot light that's flattening the battery!


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Sometimes when the weather warms up the battery will recover enough to allow the car to start


That's why i didn't try and start it this afternoon,when it was still frosty. Tonight it was quite mild,but no luck!


johnnyb47 said:


> If there was problem with the alternator you would of no doubt of seen warning lights on the dash



What does a alternator warning light look like? There's a battery symbol light that comes on then goes off a few seconds after the engine starts up. I thought that was warning me the battery's not fully charged.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

It could be Accy but it's more than likely a knackered battery. They take some hammer over there life and this time of year is when a weak battery shows it self. If you want to put your mind at rest though just drop the rear seat down and see if the boot light is on (with the boot and doors shut of course) but as i said its probably not that is the problem.


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I might as well buy a battery from the car accessory place in town. I think that if i ask them nicely they'll bring it up to where my car is and maybe even fit it for me. I could shop around for 'bargains', but it'd take days for one to be delivered. I can't go and get one myself for obvious reasons.



What year is your Mini? if it has stop/start you will need an Absorbed Glass Matte (AGM) battery - most BMW cars do. These just contain a better substrate and aren't filled with water like old car batteries.and it needs coding to the car, most independent garages can do it. But the correct battery is expensive about £125


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> What year is your Mini,


2006. It's a 1.4 diesel if that's any help.


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

Yes, thanks. Sounds like an R53 Mini. Luckily a bog standard off the shelf battery will do, plus you’ll be able to fit it yourself, no coding required.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

Don't worry about those lights. They are only check lights to tell you they are working. They will illuminate for a brief time when you turn the key. If they stay on when you drive up the road, that's when you may have a problem. Its perfectly normal for them to come on briefly when you turn the key


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> Yes, thanks. Sounds like an R53 Mini. *Luckily a bog standard off the shelf battery will do, *plus you’ll be able to fit it yourself, no coding required.


Phew! That's good news! So a decent local car accessory shop one will be ok then?


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

It only takes one duff cell in the battery to render it useless. You can stick it charge and aftera few hours the battery charger will show the battery to be all good and dandy but a duff battery will self discharge itself over a few days even if its not connected to anything. Some batteries will die slowly whilst others will go suddenly. It's the luck of the draw


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Phew! That's good news! So a decent local car accessory shop one will be ok then?



Yes, but spend a bit more and fit something like a Bosch Silver or Varta they’re OEM-quality


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> It only takes one duff cell in the battery to render it useless. You can stick it charge and aftera few hours the battery charger will show the battery to be all good and dandy but a duff battery will self discharge itself over a few days even if its not connected to anything. Some batteries will die slowly whilst others will go suddenly. It's the luck of the draw


If i bought an expensive battery,rather than a bog standard one would it be more reliable? I just have a fear of cars not firing up when i'm miles from home..especially diesel cars! I'm thinking cheap batteries could mean expensive call out to a garage for help charges,if they let me down.


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> If i bought an expensive battery,rather than a bog standard one would it be more reliable? I just have a fear of cars not firing up when i'm miles from home..especially diesel cars!



You get what you pay for, with batteries you buy cheap and buy twice, fit a decent one.


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

Gunk said:


> You get what you pay for, with batteries you buy cheap and buy twice, fit a decent one.


I'll ask the MOT centre bloke across the road to get me a decent one then. The car accessory shop ones might be short life ones.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

Our fork truck battery's at work have around 24 cells to mind. They cost ££££s and when they go its usually just a cell that's fail. Luckily the cells can be replaced individually keeping the costs to a sensible price, Car battery's are what we call sealed units. Once there knackered it's just time for a new one


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## Gunk (15 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I'll ask the MOT centre bloke across the road to get me a decent one then. The car accessory shop ones might be short life ones.



Sounds like a plan 👍


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

So if i spend say a hundred quid on one it should be ok? I could pay fifty quid and worry every time i'm about to start the car up.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

It would always recommend Varta or Bosch. Mines 10 years old now and still going strong. Needless to say it may fail tomorrow. You can never can tell buddy


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> It would always recommend Varta or Bosch. Mines 10 years old now and still going strong. Needless to say it may fail tomorrow. You can never can tell buddy


I'm thinking now about buying one online,like someone suggested quite a few pages back on this thread. Him across the road might take a cut for ordering one for me. Ok,i'll have to wait a few days,but i not in a rush. I'm going to have a look tomorrow to see what make the battery in my car is. I bet it's a cheap one. Not that i'd know which are cheap and which aren't.


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

What ever you decide to do though Accy don't fret over it. Car's nowadays are pain in the back side to work on and trying to understand them is at best mind boggling. I know a bit about them but with how complicated they are I've got RAC cover with mine. As i live rural and my work is some miles away from home its a good piece of mind to have for £10 a month. Luckily the old iron chariot has been totally reliable over the years


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## johnnyb47 (15 Dec 2019)

If you're in no rush have a look round for one. Personally Varta or Bosch would be for me every time but im sure there are plenty of other good ones out there to.


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## Accy cyclist (15 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Personally Varta or Bosch


If i ask the bloke across the road to get me one i'll see what he suggests. I'll mention the two you recommend.


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## johnnyb47 (16 Dec 2019)

Tell him you want a Varta / Bosch and get him thinking you know a thing or two. Check up the prices on the Internet first so you can compare his prices against online. If you show him that you now "whats" what he knows he can't pull the wool over your eyes. I've done this in the past so many times when in reality i know nothing.
A good example was a few years back. The maf sensor on my car had failed. If i would of asked for the bosch sensor for my specific car he would of been quite happy to of relived me of £145. Instead though i ask for a maf sensor for a diesel Freelander
.. Exactly the same part as my car but at the time a fraction of the price.
Right enough of my ramblings. Time for bed. 5 o'clock start tomorrow at work buddy


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## Accy cyclist (16 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Time for bed. 5 o'clock start tomorrow at work buddy


Ok,thanks for all the advice Johnny!


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## johnnyb47 (16 Dec 2019)

Another thing to bear in mind with battery's is that if you buy one from the shop the chances are it's been sitting on the self for a long time which is no good for them. If you get one, check the manufacturer production date is not to long. Getting one directly from a garage or manufacturer will be the better option as hopefully they will be not to old


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## smokeysmoo (16 Dec 2019)

FYI Accy, if you ever need to jump start your car be VERY careful. A guy I used to work with had a BMW Mini Clubman diesel, and he had to jump start it due to a flat battery, but in the process managed to cook the ECU! It's easily done apparently.
He had to get a new ECU, keys, locks, ignition etc, etc, etc, very costly even though he bought them used and fitted them himself, but then still needed some electrickery done by an auto spark as well. If he'd gone through a garage with new parts it would technically have been a write off due to the costs.
Breakdown cover isn't very much in the scheme of things, I got Green Flag that does just about everything and it cost me less than the price of the battery I had to buy a few weeks ago, worth it's weight in gold IMO.


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## glasgowcyclist (16 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Well the battery's definitely fecked! I was intending going down my local pub for a pint,but i turned the key and i could tell straight away it wasn't going to start.





Good. Drinking and driving don't mix.


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## Smokin Joe (16 Dec 2019)

FFS, Accy. Mrs SJ's battery went last year, one hour and fifty quid later it had a new battery and was as right as rain. You've been faffing about for one month and eleven pages and still haven't done the bleeding obvious.


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## Milkfloat (16 Dec 2019)

Smokin Joe said:


> FFS, Accy. You've been faffing about for one month and eleven pages and still haven't done the bleeding obvious.



Are you surprised, 11 pages is pretty quick?


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## Accy cyclist (16 Dec 2019)

glasgowcyclist said:


> Good. Drinking and driving don't mix.


I have one pint. If i'm correct,that's allowed by law.


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Dec 2019)

johnnyb47 said:


> Another thing to bear in mind with battery's is that if you buy one from the shop the chances are it's been sitting on the self for a long time which is no good for them. If you get one, check the manufacturer production date is not to long. Getting one directly from a garage or manufacturer will be the better option as hopefully they will be not to old


I'm going to have another cup of coffee then wander across the road to ask the bloke at the MOT place if he has a battery or can get me one asap. On seeing me he'll probably think i've come to complain about him parking his customer's cars here there and everywhere. If he takes the piss i'll ask at the local car accessory shop. If they seem to have only cheapo batteries i'll order one online.
I've seen this for £64.34 and free delivery within 3 working days,so if i order it later today it should be here by Friday at the latest.


----------



## glasgowcyclist (16 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I have one pint. If i'm correct,that's allowed by law.



Just one pint has an effect on your ability to drive, even if it's not to a degree you are aware of. A recent study by researchers at the University of Sussex suggests that people can be 'siginificantly compromised' by small amounts of alcohol under the current drink-drive limit in England & Wales, which is 80mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood.

(The limit in Scotland is much lower, at 50 mg of alcohol in 100ml of blood.)

And don't forget, it's possible to be under the stated limit but still be impaired and therefore liable to prosecution.


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Dec 2019)

glasgowcyclist said:


> Just one pint has an effect on your ability to drive, even if it's not to a degree you are aware of. A recent study by researchers at the University of Sussex suggests that people can be 'siginificantly compromised' by small amounts of alcohol under the current drink-drive limit in England & Wales, which is 80mg of alcohol per 100ml of blood.
> 
> (The limit in Scotland is much lower, at 50 mg of alcohol in 100ml of blood.)
> 
> And don't forget, it's possible to be under the stated limit but still be impaired and therefore liable to prosecution.


Come down here and stand by the roadside next to where i live. It's one of three roads leading into and out of this town. The speed limit is 30mph(20 mph at certain times of the day). There's a primary school up the road. There are the usual flashing yellow lights to warn motorists that children are about. I've seen farkwit boy racers,though some look like they're in their 40's and 50's speeding towards those lights in their knobhead mobiles at i'd say 40 even 50mph. I've enquired about speed humps and bumps but was told that they'd slow the traffic down too much at 'rush hour' time. If you want to get mad,get mad about that, not me having one pint of 3.2% mild and driving home at 25mph in the 30mph zones on my way home.


----------



## glasgowcyclist (16 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Come down here and stand by the roadside next to where i live. It's one of three roads leading into and out of this town. The speed limit is 30mph(20 mph at certain times of the day). There's a primary school up the road. There are the usual flashing yellow lights to warn motorists that children are about. I've seen farkwit boy racers,though some look like they're in their 40's and 50's speeding towards those lights in their knobhead mobiles at i'd say 40 even 50mph. I've enquired about speed humps and bumps but was told that they'd slow the traffic down too much at 'rush hour' time. If you want to get mad,get mad about that, not me having one pint of 3.2% mild and driving home at 25mph in the 30mph zones on my way home.



Who's mad?

You're adding risk to your use of a car and I've explained why.


----------



## Drago (16 Dec 2019)

glasgowcyclist said:


> Good. Drinking and driving don't mix.


Accy's driving improves markedly after a few doubles.


----------



## Salar (16 Dec 2019)

Accy,

If you order online, who is going to fit the battery,..... yourself?


----------



## Levo-Lon (16 Dec 2019)

presta said:


> Once when I switched the wipers on in my father's car I saw the arms flex and strain, but they didn't sweep because the blades were frozen to the screen, so I switched them off again. When I went out and pulled them off the screen, they snatched from my hands and then did a single sweep before stopping. The point is that the flex in the mechanism had allowed the motor to rotate just enough to disengage the parking switch, so had I not recognised what was happening and just assumed they were 'off', the motor would have burnt out.



Fuse would have blown or the relay would cut power. 
You killed the power so bypassed the safety cut out


----------



## Smokin Joe (16 Dec 2019)

Salar said:


> Accy,
> 
> If you order online, who is going to fit the battery,..... yourself?


That'll be a thread in itself.


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Dec 2019)

Salar said:


> Accy,
> 
> If you order online, who is going to fit the battery,..... yourself?


I know i'm not mechanically minded,but i can fit a battery.... i think. I didn't ask the MOT place as when i went in he was here and there,so probably too busy to bother about me. I remember a neighbour telling me that she asked him to fit a bulb somewhere on her car. she said he was very patronising,so maybe it's best i didn't communicate with him. I asked at the car accessory place in town. They said they'd fit one for me for between 60 and 70 quid,but they aren't a well known make. Maybe it'd be best to order a Bosch one online.


----------



## icowden (16 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I know i'm not mechanically minded,but i can fit a battery..



Take a look under the hood at where the existing battery is. Some of them are put in mind-mindbogglingly difficult positions such that it can be easier to get someone else to do the required disassembly. And if it is easily accessibly be careful when you fit the cables to the new battery!


----------



## vickster (16 Dec 2019)

Salar said:


> Accy,
> 
> If you order online, who is going to fit the battery,..... yourself?



Don’t forget to dispose of the old one properly at the tip


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Dec 2019)

icowden said:


> Take a look under the hood at where the existing battery is



The battery's in the boot. The bloke who i bought the car off when he came to sort it for me 2 weeks ago wouldn't have it that it was in the boot. He insisted i opened the bonnet,then when he saw it wasn't there.....


icowden said:


> be careful when you fit the cables to the new battery!



As in put the *+* on the *-* one?


----------



## neil_merseyside (16 Dec 2019)

vickster said:


> Don’t forget to dispose of the old one properly at the tip


Get £5 at a scrappy!


----------



## Nibor (16 Dec 2019)

If you need a hand fitting it Accy give me a shout mate.


----------



## glasgowcyclist (16 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> The battery's in the boot. The bloke who i bought the car off when he came to sort it for me 2 weeks ago wouldn't have it that it was in the boot. He insisted i opened the bonnet,then when he saw it wasn't there.....
> 
> 
> As in put the *+* on the *-* one?



As in removing and reconnecting the leads in the correct sequence. You might want to get a note of your car’s radio code too before you start. Lots of relevant info here https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/tips-and-advice/152382/how-to-change-a-car-battery


----------



## Accy cyclist (17 Dec 2019)

glasgowcyclist said:


> As in removing and reconnecting the leads in the correct sequence. You might want to get a note of your car’s radio code too before you start. Lots of relevant info here https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/tips-and-advice/152382/how-to-change-a-car-battery


I've just read that link. It puts me off trying to fit one myself. I was going to get a Bosch one off fleabay for 80 quid,because they've been recommended on this thread and the one i've seen has a 5 year warranty,unlike the local car accessory shop one which only has a 2 year warranty. I know some will say i'm dragging this out,but i just do not want to feck up by making the wrong choice. If i get the Bosch one and when i fit it it doesn't work i'll be knackered!


----------



## johnnyb47 (17 Dec 2019)

I think your over analyzing this Accy. Just bite the bullet and get a a battery. If you don't want fit it, get a garage to fit it. It's only a 2 minute job to do and will cost peanuts.


----------



## smokeysmoo (17 Dec 2019)

Just had an email off ECP @Accy cyclist offering upto 45% off batteries with code FROSTY80, LINKY. 

It might just save you a few quid, but stick to a decent brand and don't be tempted by any spurious brand ECP might try and foist upon you.


----------



## glasgowcyclist (17 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I've just read that link. It puts me off trying to fit one myself.



It shouldn't!

There are things to be careful about but follow the steps and it really is simple. You'll have two bolts to undo/refit (three if there's some sort of retaining clamp) and that's it. Pay attention to the refitting sequence and you'll be fine. 

Think about the money you'll save not paying someone else to fit it. 
That would probably pay for a few pints down your local *and* a taxi home 😁


----------



## Drago (17 Dec 2019)

Switch the headlamps on before commencing the task. It absorbs any sudden voltage spikes which protects the ECU from damage during the change.

Remove all rings etc before embarking on the battery change journey, and be careful not to short the terminals with your spanner.

The car may or mat not feel a bit lumpy to drive for 5 or 10 miles as the ECU may (or mat not, depends how it is set up) reverts to its base settings and it takes a short while to relearn.

And, as mentioned above, make a note of your radio code if it has one.

Dispose of the old one responsibly...in the garden of Dirty Gerty from Flat Number 30


----------



## Illaveago (17 Dec 2019)

Drago said:


> Switch the headlamps on before commencing the task. It absorbs any sudden voltage spikes which protects the ECU from damage during the change.
> 
> Remove all rings etc before embarking on the battery change journey, and be careful not to short the terminals with your spanner.
> 
> ...


You can get some money back from your old battery from a scrap yard . £7.00 to £10.00 or so depending on size .


----------



## Accy cyclist (17 Dec 2019)

glasgowcyclist said:


> It shouldn't!
> 
> There are things to be careful about but follow the steps and it really is simple. You'll have two bolts to undo/refit (three if there's some sort of retaining clamp) and that's it. Pay attention to the refitting sequence and you'll be fine.
> 
> ...





glasgowcyclist said:


> It shouldn't!
> 
> There are things to be careful about but follow the steps and it really is simple. You'll have two bolts to undo/refit (three if there's some sort of retaining clamp) and that's it. Pay attention to the refitting sequence and you'll be fine.
> 
> ...




Right,i've found this one below. It's more or less half price. Will it fit my car? 

https://www.cyclechat.net/javascript:;

Mouse over image to zoom












*Have one to sell?* 

*Shop with confidence*

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Trusted seller, fast delivery and easy returns. 


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Get the item you ordered or your money back. Learn more- opens in new window or tab
*Seller information*
carpartsbargains (57674




)
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*S4001 S4 063 Car Battery 4 Years Warranty 44Ah 440cca 12V Electrical By Bosch*

 26 product ratings




1 sold in last hour


Condition:
New

Compatibility:
See compatible vehicles








 
£46.08
RRP £96.79
save £50.71 (52% OFF*)



 

 
 
Posts from United Kingdom
269 watchers
468 sol


I'll answer my own question,no it won't according to the 'compatible list'.


----------



## Illaveago (17 Dec 2019)

You could see what Halfords charge for supplying and fitting one .

With modern cars you have to be careful that you connect like for like ! If you connect + to - you will cause a lot of damage !


----------



## Jody (17 Dec 2019)

1 month and 13 pages later, we still haven't fitted or even found a battery


----------



## Smokin Joe (17 Dec 2019)

Jody said:


> 1 month and 13 pages later, we still haven't fitted or even found a battery


Accy's after the forum Drama Queen award. Anyone else would have had an engine rebuild in the time it's taking him to sort out what must be the simplest job on a car.


----------



## Accy cyclist (17 Dec 2019)

Right that's it,i've had enough! I'm going to phone the local car accessory place and ask him to bring one up here and fit it for me. If i buy one online not only do i have to fit it and maybe feck it up,but i also have to get it from my flat to the car. Thanks to this sh!t weather walking with a heavy battery for around 100 yards on frosty pavements is not safe! Not only that, but again thanks to this damn weather i'm more or less house bound. That's why i have a car in the first place. Too many dickheads creeping round at night and dodgy un-safe pavements.I nearly went flying last night,walking home from the gym.


----------



## Accy cyclist (17 Dec 2019)

Smokin Joe said:


> what must be the simplest job on a car.


But it isn't though is it! According to some on here you can't just fit them now! Oh no, you have to have a f..k..g degree in mechanical and electrical engineering to even go near one!


----------



## Jody (17 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> But it isn't though is it! According to some on here you can't just fit them now! Oh no, you have to have a f..k..g degree in mechanical and electrical engineering to even go near one!



One nut per cable and usually a clamp holding the batter to the chassis. Should take 15 minutes tops.


----------



## icowden (17 Dec 2019)

The problem is that there is never a "simplest job" on a car. For example on my old Corsa you had to take loads of stuff out to be able to remove the battery. Then you have the fact that these days cars have some very complex electronics which you don't really want to fry. 

Changing a brake light bulb on my Renault Grand Scenic would be easy though wouldn't it?

No, you take off the entire rear light assembly which involves undoing a weird bolt on the inside of the car (which then falls into the bowels of the car and is never seen again), then undo two screws under the tailgate, both of which require a star screwdriver. Then you have to swear at the light fitting and push, bang, etc until it decides to come off the car. Finally you can pop the new bulb in, then you have to do all of the above in reverse, except for the internal bolt which is irretrievable.

See also front headlights that require you to have the skills of a contortionist to reach.


----------



## icowden (17 Dec 2019)

Assuming the car is one of these, it actually looks pretty easy :-


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBMlBIpOqAg


----------



## glasgowcyclist (17 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> But it isn't though is it! According to some on here you can't just fit them now! Oh no, you have to have a f..k..g degree in mechanical and electrical engineering to even go near one!



Poor old Accy, always making mountains out of molehills.


----------



## roadrash (17 Dec 2019)

If you want a difficult job , try changing the headlight bulb on a Renault Megane fekin nightmare


----------



## fossyant (17 Dec 2019)

Jody said:


> One nut per cable and usually a clamp holding the batter to the chassis. Should take 15 minutes tops.



This, unless one bolt on the battery tray is a nightmare to get at 

Easy job to change over. Just get the local company to sort it for you Accy. You'll pay slightly more, but save us another 20 pages.


----------



## Drago (17 Dec 2019)

Looks like our Accy did the battery himself.


----------



## Salar (17 Dec 2019)

There were lots of recalls on Minis regarding them going up in flames some time ago.

Can't remember the years or models.

@Accy cyclist you better check your recall history.


----------



## roadrash (17 Dec 2019)

Salar said:


> There were lots of recalls on Minis regarding them going up in flames some time ago.









accy is going to have a nervous breakdown at this rate


----------



## Drago (17 Dec 2019)

Poor bloke. He'll be wanting the Yellow Peril back at this rate.


----------



## presta (17 Dec 2019)

Levo-Lon said:


> Fuse would have blown or the relay would cut power.
> You killed the power so bypassed the safety cut out


If a fuse was going to blow it would have gone in the time it took me to get out of the car.


----------



## Drago (18 Dec 2019)

Just got back from walking the dog. Bumped into a chap I vaguely know, chat to him a bit in the bar at the Druid and Sacrifice.

Anyway, he asked me if I still had the Smart, and would I be j terested in a swap for a 54 plate Toyota Corolla T3 Sport 1.6? His daughter has passed her driving test, and he was going to donate his car but the insurance quotes are too high.

Now, I know this car and it's very tidy, and we all know how tough Toyotas are if cared for. I'm not using the Smart and it's now off the road for winter. I've been wondering what to do with it, and had thought about gifting it to my disabled niece, but she's just started Uni and has shown no inclination to start driving lessons.

So do I do for it, and then try to sell it or sell the Volvo. Keep both? Going to have to mull this one over.


----------



## Accy cyclist (18 Dec 2019)

Drago said:


> Poor bloke. He'll be wanting the Yellow Peril back at this rate.


I had thought that and in a way i would,but i do like the yellow and black mini. I've asked the bloke at the local car accessory place to bring a here and fit it for me. I've had enough of this analysing which would be best. Yes,i would've liked a Bosch with a 4 or 5 year warranty,but at least buying from a local shop means if the battery is poor he'll change it for me. Tracking people down off the internet to get money back a few years down the line is quite difficult.


----------



## kynikos (18 Dec 2019)

The big question is...

Will it be fitted and working before page 20?


----------



## Jenkins (18 Dec 2019)

Or even...



kynikos said:


> The big question is...
> 
> Will it be fitted and working before page *20*20?


----------



## fossyant (18 Dec 2019)

Drago said:


> Just got back from walking the dog. Bumped into a chap I vaguely know, chat to him a bit in the bar at the Druid and Sacrifice.
> 
> Anyway, he asked me if I still had the Smart, and would I be j terested in a swap for a 54 plate Toyota Corolla T3 Sport 1.6? His daughter has passed her driving test, and he was going to donate his car but the insurance quotes are too high.
> 
> ...



He might find quotes still high for an older car. My son's 4 year old car insurance was less than half what it would have been for my old car - his is actually quicker ! 

My elderly neighbour has 3 cars at present (she's been driving them all).


----------



## Accy cyclist (18 Dec 2019)

Ladies and gentlemen,I'd like to announce that I have a new battery! It cost 75 quid fitted. I asked him if the old one was definitely fecked. He said he didn't have his tester,so I'd have to bump start the car and he'd test it at the shop. I'm pretty much sure it was fecked. Please reassure me that it would've been!! The old one was a BMW battery by the way.I wonder if it was the original one?


----------



## Jody (18 Dec 2019)

The battery was fecked if you had to bump it.


----------



## potsy (18 Dec 2019)

Finally


----------



## screenman (18 Dec 2019)

The battery would have a date stamp on it. Also any decent tester now prints out a report on the battery it is testing.


----------



## Smokin Joe (18 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> Ladies and gentlemen,I'd like to announce that I have a new battery! It cost 75 quid fitted. I asked him if the old one was definitely fecked. He said he didn't have his tester,so I'd have to bump start the car and he'd test it at the shop. I'm pretty much sure it was fecked. Please reassure me that it would've been!! The old one was a BMW battery by the way.I wonder if it was the original one?


Nah, it was sound. You've just wasted £75.


----------



## fossyant (18 Dec 2019)

Smokin Joe said:


> Nah, it was sound. You've just wasted £75.



Give over.

Not a bad price, fitted and delivered at home !


----------



## Smokin Joe (18 Dec 2019)

fossyant said:


> Give over.
> 
> Not a bad price, fitted and delivered at home !


"Please reassure me it would have been" in Accy's post would have been a clue as to the context of my post.


----------



## Accy cyclist (19 Dec 2019)

Jody said:


> The battery was fecked if you had to bump it.


I didn't bump start it as i just didn't want it to make it half way to the shop then all the electrics cut out,as has happened to me with previous cars. My point/question was has the bloke who fitted the battery taken away a good battery that just needed a good charge? Someone down my local pub last night said... quote "If it went flat every time the temperature dropped below 0 C it was definitely fecked". I'm happy with that explanation.


----------



## Accy cyclist (19 Dec 2019)

I took the battery (plus the rest of the car) out tonight on its maiden journey. After driving for a few seconds the battery red warning light came on. My thought was 'when i turn the ignition off it'll be flat'. Anyway,the car fired up without a problem and the red light wasn't there the second time. There's something about diesel engines (yes i know it was the battery,not the car,but..) that i just don't trust. I'll keep 'yellow peril M2' for 2 years,like i normally do with cars,then get a peace of mind petroleum driven automobile.


----------



## Drago (19 Dec 2019)

I reckon they simply gave the old battery a wipe and told you they'd fitted a new one


----------



## Jody (19 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> My point/question was has the bloke who fitted the battery taken away a good battery that just needed a good charge?



Don't worry about that now its fitted. You have a reliable battery and a car that starts without any problems.


----------



## DaveReading (19 Dec 2019)

Illaveago said:


> You could see what Halfords charge for supplying and fitting one .
> 
> With modern cars you have to be careful that you connect like for like ! If you connect + to - you will cause a lot of damage !



The only time I foolishly invited Halfords to change the battery on my old Focus, they put a gormless trainee on the job. He not only managed to lose the radio code (not a big deal) despite assuring me that the gizmo he was plugging into the cigar lighter would preserve it, but he then managed to knacker the airbag crash sensor (automatic MOT fail).

To cap it all, he then couldn't get the clamp bolt undone because he was reluctant/unable to apply enough welly so I ended up having to take the socket from him and do that part myself. At least they didn't have the nerve to bill me the fitting charge, and the crash sensor turned out to be relatively easy to wiggle out (despite Haynes' advice that you needed to remove several other bits first).


----------



## Illaveago (19 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> I took the battery (plus the rest of the car) out tonight on its maiden journey. After driving for a few seconds the battery red warning light came on. My thought was 'when i turn the ignition off it'll be flat'. Anyway,the car fired up without a problem and the red light wasn't there the second time. There's something about diesel engines (yes i know it was the battery,not the car,but..) that i just don't trust. I'll keep 'yellow peril M2' for 2 years,like i normally do with cars,then get a peace of mind petroleum driven automobile.


If your charging warning light stays on it could mean that your alternator isn't charging .


----------



## Salar (19 Dec 2019)

Illaveago said:


> If your charging warning light stays on it could mean that your alternator isn't charging .



Don't say that ,, has Accy now got rid of a decent battery and needs a new alternator. (20 pages to follow)


----------



## Jody (19 Dec 2019)

Salar said:


> Don't say that ,, has Accy now got rid of a decent battery and needs a new alternator. (20 pages to follow)



That's a little pessimistic. This thread only got to 15 pages


----------



## Accy cyclist (19 Dec 2019)

Illaveago said:


> If your charging warning light stays on it could mean that your alternator isn't charging .


It didn't come back on the second time I turned the ignition key. 👍


----------



## fossyant (19 Dec 2019)

Accy cyclist said:


> It didn't come back on the second time I turned the ignition key. 👍



The ECU will have cleared it once it detected the battery was OK on next start.


----------



## kynikos (19 Dec 2019)

Or the warning bulb has blown due to the extreme power of the new battery and the alternator is fubared...


----------



## tyred (19 Dec 2019)

This thread has read like a soap opera. I wonder are the writers of Coronation Street looking for ideas for a gripping Christmas episode...


----------



## johnnyb47 (19 Dec 2019)

Hi @Accy cyclist 
Glad to hear you've got your car sorted. 
They can be a pain sometimes but at least your mobile again. 
I'm just waiting to get Christmas out of the way before i start some work on mine. I need to replace the copper brake pipes. Not looking forward to it as its awkward to route them over the fuel tank. But like everything they eventually either wear out or rot .


----------



## tyred (27 Dec 2019)

It seems it's my turn to have a battery problem. Mine will be quite short and not so dramatic!

Prologue: Car wouldn't start on Christmas Eve and needed a push to get it going.

Main story: Battery very sluggish and car usually requires a push if it's been sitting a while as battery doesn't seem to hold charge. Battery does seem to charge up with engine running, even driving at night with headlamps on and multimeter confirms healthy alternator status.

I go tomorrow morning and purchase and install new battery.

THE END


----------



## biggs682 (27 Dec 2019)

Smudge said:


> How do i stop spiders squatting in my door mirrors ?.... I evict them, they move right back in, and continue webbing the place up again. They also hang their little spider arses out of the wing mirror and crap down the door.



What i can't understand is how they manage to stay there after a 20 mile journey


----------



## Illaveago (27 Dec 2019)

biggs682 said:


> What i can't understand is how they manage to stay there after a 20 mile journey


I can remember seeing a baby snail sat on a wiper blade of my brother's car whilst travelling at 70 mph at night . It had it's little neck raised up as it couldn't believe seeing the world flashing past so fast.


----------



## Smudge (27 Dec 2019)

biggs682 said:


> What i can't understand is how they manage to stay there after a 20 mile journey



And its really irritating when you can hear them asking 'are we there yet'


----------



## Smokin Joe (27 Dec 2019)

Smudge said:


> And its really irritating when you can hear them asking 'are we there yet'


Did you get that joke from the web?


----------



## Accy cyclist (27 Dec 2019)

tyred said:


> Mine will be quite short and not so dramatic!





tyred said:


> I go tomorrow morning and purchase and install new battery.
> 
> THE END


Tut tut,you're so tempting fate! We all think it'll be 'summat and nothing',but it doesn't always work out that way.


----------



## tyred (28 Dec 2019)

Battery replaced and car now starting without issue.


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Mar 2020)

My Mini One D needs sorting. I took it to a garage today,to be told it needs summat doing to the fan belt mounting or something like that. They told me it wasn't wise to go far in it,so I drove home and parked up. Apparently the engine has to be lifted to get at the problem. Roughly,how much dosh will i be stung for?🤔


----------



## glasgowcyclist (16 Mar 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> My Mini One D needs sorting. I took it to a garage today,to be told it needs summat doing to the fan belt mounting or something like that. They told me it wasn't wise to go far in it,so I drove home and parked up. Apparently the engine has to be lifted to get at the problem. Roughly,how much dosh will i be stung for?🤔



Surely that was your first question to the garage?


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Mar 2020)

glasgowcyclist said:


> Surely that was your first question to the garage?


It was one of those scratch the head and say 'can't really tell how much till we strip it down' moments.


----------



## Drago (16 Mar 2020)

Access on those Minis is pretty good. I can't see anything doing with the auxiliary belt being remotely difficult.


----------



## glasgowcyclist (16 Mar 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> It was one of those scratch the head and say 'can't really tell how much till we strip it down' moments.



Well you can’t be expected to effectively write them a blank cheque so I’d take my business elsewhere.
Nobody here will be able to give you a figure without knowing what the fault is to start with.


----------



## Accy cyclist (16 Mar 2020)

glasgowcyclist said:


> Well you can’t be expected to effectively write them a blank cheque so* I’d take my business elsewhere.*
> Nobody here will be able to give you a figure without knowing what the fault is to start with.


The garage is known for being fair in their prices. The BMW/M.O.T test centre place across the road quoted me £130 for an oil change the other week!


----------



## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> My Mini One D needs sorting. I took it to a garage today,to be told it needs summat doing to the fan belt mounting or something like that. They told me it wasn't wise to go far in it,so I drove home and parked up. Apparently the engine has to be lifted to get at the problem. Roughly,how much dosh will i be stung for?🤔


£468.68


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## Illaveago (17 Mar 2020)

The garage I go to for my MOT seem to be able to check on fitting times and prices on their computer.
If it is anything like my old Corsa B it could involve removing things like the air filter box and supporting the engine to remove an engine mount in order to remove the belts .


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Illaveago said:


> The garage I go to for my MOT seem to be able to check on fitting times and prices on their computer.
> If it is anything like my old Corsa B it could involve removing things like the air filter box and supporting the engine to remove an engine mount in order to remove the belts .


Yep called Autodata


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## Nibor (17 Mar 2020)

HI Accy I'd call Autofix in Accrington for a quote always very fair with me and I would't use anyone else mate.


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## fossyant (17 Mar 2020)

Illaveago said:


> The garage I go to for my MOT seem to be able to check on fitting times and prices on their computer.
> If it is anything like my old Corsa B it could involve removing things like the air filter box and supporting the engine to remove an engine mount in order to remove the belts .



Like has been said, if it needs the belt routing round an engine mount, then the engine needs supporting - nothing to worry about, just takes longer and is more expensive.


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## fossyant (17 Mar 2020)

Quick question. I need a new back box on my car - it's only been on 18 years. I know the exact part I need (two possible options on my car but mine is the early one). Easy access, no complicated routing. Chances of me undoing the two bolts with impact sockets and a breaker bar - probably zero !


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## Bazzer (17 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> Quick question. I need a new back box on my car - it's only been on 18 years. I know the exact part I need (two possible options on my car but mine is the early one). Easy access, no complicated routing. Chances of me undoing the two bolts with impact sockets and a breaker bar - probably zero !


Yep, on a scale of 1 -10, probably between 0 and 2. And even if you can get the leverage to turn the bolts or nuts, the chances are some stripping of the threads will happen. 
You are likely to need new clamps anyway, so at the first sign of resistance I'd go for an impact driver. If that failed to persuaded the metal, then I'd be reaching for the grinder.


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## fossyant (17 Mar 2020)

Bazzer said:


> Yep, on a scale of 1 -10, probably between 0 and 2. And even if you can get the leverage to turn the bolts or nuts, the chances are some stripping of the threads will happen.
> You are likely to need new clamps anyway, so at the first sign of resistance I'd go for an impact driver. If that failed to persuaded the metal, then I'd be reaching for the grinder.



Got a grinder too, but might let the garage sweat it. They had a job changing an ABS ring (whole part needed changing) as nothing has been 'off' the car. Can't complain, as 18 years for an exhaust back box is excellent.


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## Drago (17 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Yep called Autodata


Or the ICME if they're really posh.


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> Or the ICME if they're really posh.


Don't do Posh, it's for err, Posh to do that


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## Adam4868 (17 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> Quick question. I need a new back box on my car - it's only been on 18 years. I know the exact part I need (two possible options on my car but mine is the early one). Easy access, no complicated routing. Chances of me undoing the two bolts with impact sockets and a breaker bar - probably zero !


Funny enough did same thing on mine a week or two ago,a plumbers blow torch helped me out !


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Question for you knowledgeable lot, what are these off


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## johnnyb47 (17 Mar 2020)

Ohh i would hazard a wild guess there off a Porsche


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## Gunk (17 Mar 2020)

Sierra


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## Smudge (17 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> Sierra



Nah, I had one of those.


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## Gunk (17 Mar 2020)

Smudge said:


> Nah, I had one of those.



Are you sure?


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Ford might be a good call, this was a comment from a seller on another car that I was considering "You'll be pleased to know it has fog lights.... that's the Ford ones that nobody can find'

Edit:- If they are XR4's then they are going to be more than the car, time to get the fibreglass out I think.

So next question what indicator will fit in the hole left, not too worried about fogs.


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## Smudge (17 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> Are you sure?
> 
> View attachment 508895



Yes the indicator and sidelight is similar, but the Sierra never had sunken headlights like in the previous pic.


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Smudge said:


> Yes the indicator and sidelight is similar, but the Sierra never had sunken headlights like in the previous pic.


Sorry to mislead you, it's a kitcar


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## Gunk (17 Mar 2020)

Smudge said:


> Yes the indicator and sidelight is similar, but the Sierra never had sunken headlights like in the previous pic.



They did on on the mk 1 Sierra, those fog lights and indicators were used only on the XR4i and three door Cosworth, unfortunately they’re now like hens teeth.


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## Gunk (17 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Sorry to mislead you, it's a kitcar
> 
> View attachment 508899



Looks like a Dutton


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> Looks like a Dutton


Nah not like any Dutton I've seen, it's a GTM Rossa K3


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## fossyant (17 Mar 2020)

Rover Metro rear lights


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## Smudge (17 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> They did on on mk 1 Sierra those fog lights and indicators were used only on the XR4i and three door Cosworth, unfortunately they’re now like hens teeth.



Yeah i know what you mean, but they weren't sunken on the top of the wing like in the pic.
But its was a kit car, which made it cryptic anyway.


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## Gunk (17 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Nah not like any Dutton I've seen, it's a GTM Rossa K3



Quite cool


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## Phaeton (17 Mar 2020)

Smudge said:


> Yeah i know what you mean, but they weren't sunken on the top of the wing like in the pic.
> But its was a kit car, which made it cryptic anyway.


Wasn't intended to be & the indicators were front & centre


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## Phaeton (18 Mar 2020)

Next question for the collective, can anyone see why my rear fog light might not work.


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## Adam4868 (18 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Next question for the collective, can anyone see why my rear fog light might not work.
> 
> 
> View attachment 509078


Cause you've no bulb innit ?


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## Drago (18 Mar 2020)

Because the wires aren't connected?


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## Gunk (18 Mar 2020)

Earthing spade is fecked


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## gbb (19 Mar 2020)

fossyant said:


> Quick question. I need a new back box on my car - it's only been on 18 years. I know the exact part I need (two possible options on my car but mine is the early one). Easy access, no complicated routing. Chances of me undoing the two bolts with impact sockets and a breaker bar - probably zero !


I always did my own exhaust sections but learned years ago, you replace one section and often, within weeks, an adjacent section goes. I suspect it happens because as you replace one piece, often the rear box, it now operates correctly with correct back pressure, so increasing pressure in the remainder of the system.
I dont even bother anymore....just replace the lot. 
Also I realised years ago, I could buy a rear box cheap but it only had a year warranty. Pay a bit more and get 3 or 5 years warranty. Which makes you wonder about the quality of materials used in the cheap one .


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## fossyant (19 Mar 2020)

gbb said:


> I always did my own exhaust sections but learned years ago, you replace one section and often, within weeks, an adjacent section goes. I suspect it happens because as you replace one piece, often the rear box, it now operates correctly with correct back pressure, so increasing pressure in the remainder of the system.
> I dont even bother anymore....just replace the lot.
> Also I realised years ago, I could buy a rear box cheap but it only had a year warranty. Pay a bit more and get 3 or 5 years warranty. Which makes you wonder about the quality of materials used in the cheap one .



I'm tempted to go mid section and back box, then saves the issue later (after the cat).


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## Drago (19 Mar 2020)

I'm wondering when my Volvo might need a new exhaust, as its 11 years old. It's all posh and fancy, with quad tailpipe, and Volvo want the thick end of 800 quid for cat back. MIJ will do me a bespoke, standard db level replica in stainless for 600, so I know which I'll be buying.


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## fossyant (19 Mar 2020)

Drago said:


> I'm wondering when my Volvo might need a new exhaust, as its 11 years old. It's all posh and fancy, with quad tailpipe, and Volvo want the thick end of 800 quid for cat back. MIJ will do me a bespoke, standard db level replica in stainless for 600, so I know which I'll be buying.



Might be years yet. Mine is fine appart from a baffle in the back boxe has 'fell off' - it's corroded inside and was rattling around. It's sound outside !


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## Gunk (19 Mar 2020)

They seem to last for ever these days


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## Phaeton (19 Mar 2020)

Gunk said:


> They seem to last for ever these days


Potentially because of the cat, the nasty stuff no longer gets into the exhaust & eats it from the inside


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## Accy cyclist (25 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> £468.68


Ok,i had it sorted the other day. I was going to post and tell all,but this C19 has taken up my self allocated daily post limit on CC. Not only did i have the tensioner fan belt replaced,i also had a service. Not the full service where they clean the brakes,but the second one down which involved an oil change,oil filter,air filter,pollen filter,fuel filter and screen wash and anti-freeze. The total bill,cash in hand  was £330. I know absolutely zilch about car engines,so i asked a bloke who's a friend of a friend to do it,hoping i wouldn't be ripped off. I've looked under the bonnet and i can see that he has put a brand new fan belt thingy on,because it looks brand new.Meaning it's not from a scrapyard. My only slight concern is the oil. I checked the dipstick yesterday. I expected the oil on it to be golden in colour,but it does look black,or maybe dark green.Surely he won't have put the old oil back in the engine?


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## Phaeton (25 Mar 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> Surely he won't have put the old oil back in the engine?


Is it a Diesel, if so it will go black the first time you start it up


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## Electric_Andy (25 Mar 2020)

So the friend of a friend is a qualified mechanic? Oil can go dirty very quickly after a change, becasue there's always a pint or more old oil that can't be drained out easily (unless you leave it to sit for a few months).


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## Accy cyclist (25 Mar 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Is it a Diesel, if so it will go black the first time you start it up


And stay black? i know it might sound a dumb question,but like i said, i know zilch about engines. Also,the 'oil inspection advised'or summat like that,light has gone,but now it says just 'oil inspection'. Both lights went off/go off after ignition.


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## Smudge (25 Mar 2020)

Electric_Andy said:


> So the friend of a friend is a qualified mechanic? Oil can go dirty very quickly after a change, becasue there's always a pint or more old oil that can't be drained out easily (unless you leave it to sit for a few months).



New change of diesel oil will always go black straight away, oil in petrol cars doesn't, it stays clean looking for quite a while.


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## Accy cyclist (25 Mar 2020)

Electric_Andy said:


> So the friend of a friend is a qualified mechanic? Oil can go dirty very quickly after a change, becasue there's always a pint or more old oil that can't be drained out easily (unless you leave it to sit for a few months).


Yes,he is qualified. He works at a MOT and tyre place. I asked a 30-40 years in the job fully qualified HGV mechanic and he recommended him.


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## Accy cyclist (25 Mar 2020)

Electric_Andy said:


> So the friend of a friend is a qualified mechanic? Oil can go dirty very quickly after a change, becasue there's always a pint or more old oil that can't be drained out easily (unless you leave it to sit for a few months).





Smudge said:


> New change of diesel oil will always go black straight away, oil in petrol cars doesn't, it stays clean looking for quite a while.


So do you both think £330 was a fair price? The job itself was £200,with the service costing £130. The MOT centre bloke across the road wanted about £130 just for an oil change.


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## Electric_Andy (25 Mar 2020)

DOn't dwell on it, you've had it done now. A good rate is £45/hour labour. Some places would have charged a bit less overall, others (like main dealers) would have charged double.


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## Richard A Thackeray (4 Apr 2020)

Rear wiper doesn't work

Or, it does when it's very hot

I think there's a fractured cable somewhere, that makes intermittent contact?


However...……….. there's (I think) 5 wires to the motor
So.….. is it the motor itself?

That'd be easier, as it'd save stripping out the trim to find one


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## Phaeton (5 Apr 2020)

If you can get a 2nd hand replacement I'd be swapping the unit as a first logical step, unless like MGF's they are known for chewing the cable up as it goes from the body to boot


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## Gunk (5 Apr 2020)

Phaeton said:


> If you can get a 2nd hand replacement I'd be swapping the unit as a first logical step, unless like MGF's they are known for chewing the cable up as it goes from the body to boot



I agree, it’s more likely to be the motor unit that’s failed.


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## Richard A Thackeray (7 Apr 2020)

@Gunk, @Phaeton 

Probably, boys!

I know a guy who looks after a lot of the local 'black & white' taxis, I'll ask him if he can source me one


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## Phaeton (8 Apr 2020)

Richard A Thackeray said:


> @Gunk, @Phaeton
> 
> Probably, boys!
> 
> I know a guy who looks after a lot of the local 'black & white' taxis, I'll ask him if he can source me one


If that is the case try to get one on sale or return


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## Accy cyclist (12 May 2020)

I keep getting a static electricity shock off my car. Mostly when i open and close the door. It's getting that bad that i now close the door with the palm of my hand as it's less painful to get a shock there than my finger ends. Any of you an idea what's causing it?


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## Phaeton (12 May 2020)

Stop wearing ladies nylon knickers


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## Electric_Andy (13 May 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> I keep getting a static electricity shock off my car. Mostly when i open and close the door. It's getting that bad that i now close the door with the palm of my hand as it's less painful to get a shock there than my finger ends. Any of you an idea what's causing it?


I had that before, I think it's more to do with the shoes you're wearing and possibly your clothes too. I had a certain pair of leather shoes which I could never wear to work becasue of the shocks from the car, the work kitchen taps and the kettle. It seemed to be worse if I was wearing leather soled shoes rather than rubber soles


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## rogerzilla (13 May 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> I keep getting a static electricity shock off my car. Mostly when i open and close the door. It's getting that bad that i now close the door with the palm of my hand as it's less painful to get a shock there than my finger ends. Any of you an idea what's causing it?


Cloth seats? The general consensus is that it's caused by static created as you slide your arse across the seat to get out. I've never noticed it happen in a car with leather seats.


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## fossyant (13 May 2020)

Possibly your shoes Accy - try other ones.


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## Smudge (13 May 2020)

I notice you dont see those anti static strips anymore, that used to hang down from the back of cars in the 80's.
Probably because they were a gimmick that never worked.


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## screenman (13 May 2020)

Push from the glass.


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## Accy cyclist (13 May 2020)

screenman said:


> Push from the glass.


What! and get finger marks on the glass!I'm always cursing my dog for leaving dog spit marks on the inside of the front windows,i can't stand dirty windows! Seriously though,yes close them possibly using the glass,but i can't use the glass to open the door. Someone told me it happens more when a car's been sat in the sun all day,though yesterday was a dull day and i got a right blast when i opened the door!


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## Drago (13 May 2020)

Change those carpet mats to rubber ones.


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## Accy cyclist (13 May 2020)

Drago said:


> Change those carpet mats to rubber ones.


I have rubber ones in which came with the car,though i do have a carpet material mat for the driver's side so i don't mark the heels of my shoes with black rubber. Maybe try taking it out and seeing if that helps?


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## Drago (13 May 2020)

Your need a rubber mat so your shoes aren't rubbing against the carpet and developing a static charge. You must surely have an old gimp suit that doesn't fit you any more that you could cut up to make one?


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## fossyant (13 May 2020)

Rubber mats, oh you commoner !


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## rogerzilla (14 May 2020)

Drago said:


> Your need a rubber mat so your shoes aren't rubbing against the carpet and developing a static charge. You must surely have an old gimp suit that doesn't fit you any more that you could cut up to make one?


I sold the gimp suit on eBay as a "Covid-19 PPE outfit".


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## Drago (14 May 2020)

Smudge said:


> I notice you dont see those anti static strips anymore, that used to hang down from the back of cars in the 80's.
> Probably because they were a gimmick that never worked.


They did work a little, but the tyres did the same job anyway.


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## Phaeton (14 May 2020)

Drago said:


> They did work a little, but the tyres did the same job anyway.


I thought their whole purpose was to bypass the tyres? they created a path from the metal body via the rubberised strip which had a copper core down to earth so that any stored static had a way to dissipate, instead of using the human that put a foot on the floor & then touched a car part.


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## fossyant (14 May 2020)

Those straps made a terrible noise at slow speeds and reversing.


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## Electric_Andy (14 May 2020)

My parents always told me that those strips were to reduce motion sickness


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## Phaeton (14 May 2020)

Electric_Andy said:


> My parents always told me that those strips were to reduce motion sickness


I believe they were sold as that, they did cut down the static bussing around the car, lot's of whirly bits, generating their own fields


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## Drago (14 May 2020)

Phaeton said:


> I thought their whole purpose was to bypass the tyres? they created a path from the metal body via the rubberised strip which had a copper core down to earth so that any stored static had a way to dissipate, instead of using the human that put a foot on the floor & then touched a car part.


The tyres also have a metal core, a flexible steel mesh ply thingy, an by a process of inductive coupling they worked pretty much the same as the rubber dangly bits.


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## Smudge (14 May 2020)

Also the rubber strip would wear down so after a while it wasn't touching the road anyway. For a few years in the 80's i saw them everywhere, but i cant remember when i last saw one.


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## Accy cyclist (12 Jun 2020)

My car has developed a knocking sound coming from what sounds like the front left hand side. It's more prominent when i slow down. I'm thinking it's a brake problem. Am i right in thinking so?


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## Phaeton (12 Jun 2020)

is in time with the speed you are driving & regular, or does it depend on road surface, unusual for brakes to knock, it's normally droplinks that knock


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## Drago (12 Jun 2020)

Drop links, less likely strut top mount/bearing. Check the wheel nuts/bolts are tight before paying Fred in a Shed to look at it.


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## Phaeton (12 Jun 2020)

Also check the glove compartment for something rolling about, you may laugh but ti wouldn't be the first time


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## fossyant (12 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Also check the glove compartment for something rolling about, you may laugh but ti wouldn't be the first time



Don't - been there -thought it was drop links, got them changed, still doing it. It was the glove box clunking. I bit of tape over the pivot stopped the wobble.

I'd go for drop links. They usually start to clunk over bumps or rough roads. Sometimes not easy to tell is worn when inspecting them, unless there is loads of play - but once 'off' they are quite loose if worn. Not a difficult job to do, but you'll need a gas torch to heat the bolts up to make the job easy. We could hardly hear the 'knock' on my wife's Qashqai, but it came up as an advisory on the MOT last year. The knock was so quiet, I only bothered to replace this year. Couldn't feel and movement when installed, but when removed one of the ball joints was free to rotate, rather than feeling tight.


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## Phaeton (12 Jun 2020)

Just use an Angry grinder, I always buy new ones if I'm changing bottom arms or springs, then take them back if not needed, which is about 1 in 5, they get 5 minutes if they haven't come off attack with grinder


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## Drago (12 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> Also check the glove compartment for something rolling about, you may laugh but ti wouldn't be the first time


And check underneath the car for a pedestrian wedged in there. They can get a bit rattly if they've been there a while.


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## Accy cyclist (12 Jun 2020)

Phaeton said:


> is in time with the speed you are driving & regular, or does it depend on road surface,


The first,not the latter. if it is drop links,can it wait till MOT time in 2 months? BY then i'll have probably done another 200 miles at most.


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## Drago (12 Jun 2020)

Could be ball joints, but I reckon less likely. ARB bushes a possibility, but drop links are still the favourite. Provided your wheel is not loose its liable to be fine until the MOT. You need to get it on the air and u load the suspension, so the MOT is an ideal time to diagnose it.


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## kynikos (12 Jun 2020)

@Accy - Remember when you threw that mat away? The one giving you grief re static. It's caught up in your front n/s suspension.


----------



## ren531 (28 Jun 2020)

Can anyone tell me if there are any things to be aware of in changing the car battery on a 2011 ford feista zetec ,i have changed batterys on many vehicles in the past ,cars, wagons ,ect ,but not changed one for a while ,do they still need a code for the radio or anything else to be aware of .


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## classic33 (16 Jul 2020)

Your car is subject to manufacturer's recall, you decide to do nothing. 
How does it affect the vehicle status on the road when you carry on using it?


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## Gunk (17 Jul 2020)

If it’s at slow speed when the steering is on lock it way be a worn CV joint


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## glasgowcyclist (17 Jul 2020)

Smudge said:


> Also the rubber strip would wear down so after a while it wasn't touching the road anyway.



Yeah but the simple answer to that was to lower the suspension.


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## Drago (17 Jul 2020)

classic33 said:


> Your car is subject to manufacturer's recall, you decide to do nothing.
> How does it affect the vehicle status on the road when you carry on using it?


I guess it depends on the nature of the recall, and whether your car is indeed one of the "faulty" ones - just because it's been recalled doesn't automatically mean there is anything wrong with it, but it could also mean I will self isolate without warning.


----------



## classic33 (17 Jul 2020)

Drago said:


> I guess it depends on the nature of the recall, and whether your car is indeed one of the "faulty" ones - just because it's been recalled doesn't automatically mean there is anything wrong with it, but it could also mean I will self isolate without warning.


Nothing serious, previous ones have been for wiring faults, airbag deploying when they shouldn't, faulty EMS and engines catching fire.


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## Drago (17 Jul 2020)

Sounds like every day Jaguar problems.


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## classic33 (17 Jul 2020)

Drago said:


> Sounds like every day Jaguar problems.


This is a Volkswagen though.


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## Drago (18 Jul 2020)

Ah, there you go. My Golf self immolated, and to be honest I did little to stop the conflagration once it had started. Why people get moist over them is beyond me.


----------



## gavroche (18 Jul 2020)

My brother has a 5 year old a200 Mercedes and recently, one of the warning lights came on. He took it to his local Mercedes dealer who told him not to use the car until they investigate the fault. It turned out one sensor had gone faulty on the fuel system I think. Cost of repair: 1800 euros!!
Also, two ago the turbo blew up when we were having a holiday in Ireland together. Luckily, that was done under the guarantee.
Suffice to say, he is not impressed with that brand and is thinking about selling it when he gets it back and buy a Renault. He has had many Renaults before and no problems.


----------



## Salar (18 Jul 2020)

I might well be wrong, but doesn't the A class have an engine developed with Renault?


----------



## Grant Fondo (18 Jul 2020)

Mrs Fondo's motor needed a jump start (where's @Fnaar these days?) due to covid flat battery. Took me blinkin ages. Why do they hide the + and - terminals on newer cars? and what happened to crank handles?


----------



## Drago (18 Jul 2020)

gavroche said:


> My brother has a 5 year old a200 Mercedes and recently, one of the warning lights came on. He took it to his local Mercedes dealer who told him not to use the car until they investigate the fault. It turned out one sensor had gone faulty on the fuel system I think. Cost of repair: 1800 euros!!
> Also, two ago the turbo blew up when we were having a holiday in Ireland together. Luckily, that was done under the guarantee.
> Suffice to say, he is not impressed with that brand and is thinking about selling it when he gets it back and buy a Renault. He has had many Renaults before and no problems.


He does realise that small Mercs use Renfault engines, particularly the diseasels? Good chance that hed be swapping the badge and little else. Indeed, the famous older "Mercedes" diesel engine that used to go in the Clio and megane were nothing of the sort - they were Renault units through and through, and Renault supplied them the Mercedes for the old A class, not the other way around. Theres a "strategic partnership" between Renault group and Daimler and there share a lot of development work, design resources and components.


----------



## gavroche (18 Jul 2020)

Drago said:


> He does realise that small Mercs use Renfault engines, particularly the diseasels? Good chance that hed be swapping the badge and little else. Indeed, the famous older "Mercedes" diesel engine that used to go in the Clio and megane were nothing of the sort - they were Renault units through and through, and Renault supplied them the Mercedes for the old A class, not the other way around. Theres a "strategic partnership" between Renault group and Daimler and there share a lot of development work, design resources and components.


Possibly but at Merc prices for repairs it seems.


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## Drago (18 Jul 2020)

Hes daft to take it to them then. You don't have to buy another car in order to be able to use a cheaper garage - that would be a very expensive way to save money.


----------



## Cavalol (21 Jul 2020)

Drago said:


> Ah, there you go. My Golf self immolated, and to be honest I did little to stop the conflagration once it had started. Why people get moist over them is beyond me.



Amen. I simply cannot believe the hype over VAG stuff, have owned a handful and they're average at best. If anyone actually believes they're better built than a Vauxhall or Ford for example, then the best of luck to them. Over-rated springs to mind.


----------



## screenman (21 Jul 2020)

Cavalol said:


> Amen. I simply cannot believe the hype over VAG stuff, have owned a handful and they're average at best. If anyone actually believes they're better built than a Vauxhall or Ford for example, then the best of luck to them. Over-rated springs to mind.



I work on both makes and have done for many years, I own and drive a VAG group car, Vauxhalls and Fords I would not entertain, yes there is a build quailty difference.


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## Drago (21 Jul 2020)

Depends what you define as "quality". They don't perform especially well in the reliability index, which suggests the perceived quality isn't translating into anything tangible. Prior to her retirement my Mum was a senior manager at the importers, Volkswagen Group UK, and she never rated them, putting the quality image down to decades of cutting edge marketing.


----------



## screenman (21 Jul 2020)

Drago said:


> Depends what you define as "quality". They don't perform especially well in the reliability index, which suggests the perceived quality isn't translating into anything tangible. Prior to her retirement my Mum was a senior manager at the importers, Volkswagen Group UK, and she never rated them, putting the quality image down to decades of cutting edge marketing.



When I take a VAG group car to bits you can feel the quality, right down to the trim clips and the trim itself. To be fair on the reliabilty bit that is across the board on all makes, including Japanese nowadays, to much technology and sensors involved to be super reliable. You get in and drive a 200,000 mile Mondeo and then do the same in 200,000 mile VAG group car and you will feel a huge diference. I am not making this up, right down to how the metal feels the VAG group cars are a class above Ford and Vauxhall, and if we talk of clever marketing Ford have it, they have spent the last 100 years selling poor quality motoring.


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## potsy (21 Jul 2020)

How vital is it to disinfect my air conditioning? 

Seems to be the in thing judging by how many emails I'm being sent to remind me to have it done


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## Drago (21 Jul 2020)

screenman said:


> When I take a VAG group car to bits you can feel the quality, right down to the trim clips and the trim itself. To be fair on the reliabilty bit that is across the board on all makes, including Japanese nowadays, to much technology and sensors involved to be super reliable. You get in and drive a 200,000 mile Mondeo and then do the same in 200,000 mile VAG group car and you will feel a huge diference. I am not making this up, right down to how the metal feels the VAG group cars are a class above Ford and Vauxhall, and if we talk of clever marketing Ford have it, they have spent the last 100 years selling poor quality motoring.


Comparisons of 200k mile cars are ridiculous, unless they've been driven bu the same driver, in the same manner, over the same distances, and maintained identically. I'd love to see you have tried to drive my old Golf at 50k miles, seeing as it had burned itself to a crisp.

What are you defining as "quality"? The average VW lasts no longer than the average Ford or Vauxhall, and covers no higher a mileage. What about the rusty MK5 Golfs you now see a lot of, but Astras of the same era arent tinworm sufferers to anywhere near that degree.

Trim clips, your impressions of the metal etc, are all lovely, but none of them translate to a more reliable or a longer lived product. There is no widespread problem with Focus door cards or Astra kick panelsmfalling off, suggesting that theirntrim clips do a perfectly serviceable job, and do so for less money.

https://www.reliabilityindex.com/reliability/search/304

https://www.reliabilityindex.com/reliability/search/83

So much for VW quality.

Look at BMW. My old 7 series was a semi hand built car, buffalo hide leather, hand finished paint, and I marvelled at the top quality of even the tiniest fastener. The "quality" was outstanding. None of it meant a thing when it repeatedly wouldn't start and needed a new immobiliser module, and subsequent electrical gremlins. Perceptions of "quality" contributed nothing to the reliability, longevity or effectiveness of the product. It looked good, felt nice to the touch, but was no better a car for any of that.

Quality in the consumer sense is defined as "fitness for the customers purpose", not how shiny the washers are or how nice the trim clips feel as they ping off.

And as for the quality of their diesel emissions...why do you give a company with historically such poor scruples a penny of your money?


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## MarkF (21 Jul 2020)

I can recall a few years back reading an article and a VAG executive saying that of course their cars were no better the Fords, both knew the cost of every component and what each other used. But they'd spent a lot of time and money marketing to make people perceive there was a difference. To me VAG cars mean rust, in BD9 VAG cars are the weapon of choice and I marvel at the rust on Golfs and Audis as I walk into work, there is a big money (when new) Audi convertible that has holes large enough to put your fingers through in it's front wings.

Thinking....picked up the MX5 from it's MOT today (£102 = result) and noticed my mechanics new car, he'd always said he'd never drive anything but a Honda but he'd bought a new BMW 1 series, said it's the daftest thing he's ever done.


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## Cavalol (21 Jul 2020)

VAG stuff, (especially VWs) are just cleverly marketed ordinary cars with something of a 'fan boi' following. The last two to (dis)grace Cavalol towers were a T25 (admittedly they're seriously old now) which was hilariously rubbish to drive, a Mk2/Mk3 Transit Di would have knocked it into a cocked hat any day of the week. The other was a 102,000 mile Audi TT thing with more history than the royal family. Caused me more grief than I care to remember, luckily I kept my 180,000 mile Vectra diesel which had no paperwork at all bar the V5. and was actually a far better car.
My daughter-in-law doesn't have especially fond memories of a 2010 Audi 2.0 petrol (FSI?) that started smoking it's knackers off and was diagnosed with piston ring trouble, irrc. The nice man from the RAC said it was a common problem and was just shy of £3,000 to fix, luckily it was paid for.


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## gbb (22 Jul 2020)

Good cars / quality cars / cheap motoring ?
If I think over the last 20 years..working backwards..
Astra 1.6 petrol SRI 2015, brought at 8k miles, now at 66k I think, never missed a beat. 5 years trouble free motoring.
Astra 1.6 petrol SRI 2010, brought at 53k miles, sold at 100k, never missed a beat. 5 years trouble free motoring.
Focus 1.6 petrol 2007, never had any problems barring the stupid bonnet latch but hated it. 3 years mostly trouble free motoring, but hated the car, cant explain why, just hated it.
Vectra B 1.6 petrol 2007 had it maybe 4 years, maybe 4 years trouble free motoring.
Vectra B 1.8 petrol SRI 2001, did develop an engine rattle but I suspect it was my fault. Loved that car, did suffer with management lights, new throttle body didnt solve it but generally didnt cost me that much. Genuinely liked that car. Around 4 years generally trouble free motoring.

Theres no doubt Vauxhalls paint is pretty crud IME, scratches easily , even brushing against scrub or bushes can scratch the paint but...no rust at all on any of those cars. Non have been high miles but all have been uneventful...albeit a bit dull.
Avoid diesels and turbos...but my driving is relaxed to say the least...I dont expect much from a car, just turn the key and get me A to B.


20 years of motoring, I spent £350 on a throttle body...and that's it I think (excluding tyres etc). Vauxhalls, particually petrol ones tend to fairly rock solid IME.
I'd love something like an A3 TDI but common sense takes over every time I buy a car and then I talk to my son in law, qualified garage mechanic, most german stuff is over rated in his opinion...and damn damn expensive to repair in some cases.


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## rogerzilla (23 Jul 2020)

VW Group cars are all galvanised, unless they've recently dropped that. Shouldn't rust unless repaired with pattern parts. I agree they're overpriced. Skodas are better-built, despite using most of the same parts. Conversely, Audis are rubbish. People buy them for the badge and the fancy interiors but they are woefully unreliable.

BMWs and Mazdas can be pretty rusty. In Mazda's case, it's because there is no point making a car to last 10 years for the JDM because they scrap or export them before that (the shaken test is hugely expensive once you've done all the precautionary replacements). I am a big Mazda fan but rust is their Achilles heel.


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## MarkF (23 Jul 2020)

rogerzilla said:


> VW Group cars are all galvanised, unless they've recently dropped that. Shouldn't rust unless repaired with pattern parts. I agree they're overpriced. Skodas are better-built, despite using most of the same parts. Conversely, Audis are rubbish. People buy them for the badge and the fancy interiors but they are woefully unreliable.
> 
> BMWs and Mazdas can be pretty rusty. In Mazda's case, it's because there is no point making a car to last 10 years for the JDM because they scrap or export them before that (the shaken test is hugely expensive once you've done all the precautionary replacements). I am a big Mazda fan but rust is their Achilles heel.



My 1992 Eunos Roadster (MX5) doesn't have any rust anywhere, some previous owner really went to town on underbody protection. I had a 1992 Audi 80 as a company car, I recall a big selling point for it was that it had a galvanised body, I liked it so when it was 3 years old I bought it from the company, at about 6/7 years old I gave it my late father and it started rusting all over.


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## Wookee (23 Jul 2020)

Like most here I've had quite a variety of cars and for my tuppence...

2 Mk5 Golfs - 1 a TDi my wife had when we met and the other a GTi I had for a few months recently have been the cars that have most impressed me handling wise and I would have no hesitation in owning one again - though that's unlikely.
I have a 2007 T5 that I bought with 160k on the clock and converted to a campervan. It does exactly what I need it to do with no fuss. Like the 2 Golfs I've never had a problem with it outside of normal wear and tear.

Having said that; a few years ago I had a top of the range Mondeo estate that I bought with 160k, mainly motorway, miles on it and that felt very well screwed together and the only thing that broke on it was a front spring. I only sold it to buy the van.

If I needed another car and was able to choose (the wife is a bit of a brand snob so very unlikely to happen!) I'd have a Vauxhall Zafira. I had one for a bit as a runaround while sorting the van and it was awesome! Little bits went wrong but they were cheap and easy to fix.... I loved that car!!


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## Grant Fondo (23 Jul 2020)

No one has mentioned Fiat yet? I had the cylinder head off my Uno more times than Nicola Sturgeon says 'progressive'


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## rogerzilla (23 Jul 2020)

I think Vauxhall and any French cars would be last on my list. The interiors on Vauxhalls smell of cheap plastic (like bin bags) and they seem years behind everything else. Must be the former US influence. French build quality...zut alors!


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## HMS_Dave (23 Jul 2020)

rogerzilla said:


> I think Vauxhall and any French cars would be last on my list. The interiors on Vauxhalls smell of cheap plastic (like bin bags) and they seem years behind everything else. Must be the former US influence. French build quality...zut alors!


Funny, ive never had a problem with French cars. I once had a Peugeot 309 with a 1.9 diesel in it. 260000 miles on the clock, fine... Ive more recently had a 207SW with the prince mini 1.4 engine in it which is apparently a bomb ready to go off levels of reliability but again, it had 129000 miles on the clock and was still going strong. Just maintain it properly i say...

I have however, heard peoples horror story accounts of their experiences...


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## Drago (23 Jul 2020)

rogerzilla said:


> VW Group cars are all galvanised, unless they've recently dropped that. Shouldn't rust unless repaired with pattern parts. I agree they're overpriced. Skodas are better-built, despite using most of the same parts. Conversely, Audis are rubbish. People buy them for the badge and the fancy interiors but they are woefully unreliable.
> 
> BMWs and Mazdas can be pretty rusty. In Mazda's case, it's because there is no point making a car to last 10 years for the JDM because they scrap or export them before that (the shaken test is hugely expensive once you've done all the precautionary replacements). I am a big Mazda fan but rust is their Achilles heel.


Vauxhall have been using galvanealed sheet stock since the late 90s. If you see a rusty Vauxhall then its led one helluva hard life. Back in the Dibble Vauxhalls lasted longer than anything - they rattled, squeaked, wobbled and knocked, but they refused to die and usually got binned off with 50% more miles than the recommended replacement mileage. They were like the coronavirus of police vehicles - no one liked them, no one wanted to drive them, but you just couldn't get rid of them! The Focus was a sharper drive wpbut was found to be relatively fragile in that environment, and the Golf was too expensive to purchase and repair for no tangible gain. We had Mondeo area cars for a while, and then went to Passats, and having learned that lesson went back to Mondeos, which were frankly better to drive, cheaper, no less reliable, and off the road for a lot less time when they broke because every part could be had from about a dozen outlets within a 2 mile radius of headquarters.


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## Wookee (23 Jul 2020)

rogerzilla said:


> I think Vauxhall and any French cars would be last on my list. The interiors on Vauxhalls smell of cheap plastic (like bin bags) and they seem years behind everything else. Must be the former US influence. French build quality...zut alors!


Not a bad description of Vauxhall interiors! I think I've had 4 in all over the years and would never describe their interiors as quality


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## screenman (23 Jul 2020)

Grant Fondo said:


> No one has mentioned Fiat yet? I had the cylinder head off my Uno more times than Nicola Sturgeon says 'progressive'



I used to buy and sell a lot of Fiats in the eighties, they have us very few warranty problems.


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## Grant Fondo (23 Jul 2020)

screenman said:


> I used to buy and sell a lot of Fiats in the eighties, they have us very few warranty problems.


Wish i had bought one from you, mine was a lemon. I even had to weld a rear stub axle back on


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## Drago (24 Jul 2020)

Wookee said:


> Not a bad description of Vauxhall interiors! I think I've had 4 in all over the years and would never describe their interiors as quality


Again, depends what exactly people mean when they talk about quality. Hard, uninviting plastics, not pleasant to look at or touch.... but which easily outlasted any other brands when subjected to the rigours of police work, which is estimated to be between 20 and a hundred times harder on a car interior than normal use.

Attractive soft touch finishes and pleasant looking materials are not "quality". They're window dressing.


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## gbb (24 Jul 2020)

screenman said:


> I used to buy and sell a lot of Fiats in the eighties, they have us very few warranty problems.


No real experience of Fiats barring a Late 90s early 2000s Tempera estate turbo diesel which was stupidly fast. Never gave any trouble in the few years the company had it.
The fleet guy at my last job talked well of Fiats, no more or less problems than many other cars in his experience...in fact he said someone once said to him...hah, Fiats are carp, the alternator went on his at less than a year...and fleet guys response was...Fiat dont make alternators, it was probably a Bosch, not even Italian ?


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## gbb (26 Jul 2020)

Engine knock ?
I occasionally notice a metallic 'tinkling' from the low front of the car, always while accelerating at low speed, while the engine is probably under a fair bit of load. It only lasts a few seconds and only happens very occasionally.
Opinions ? It doesnt happen often so I'm not particually concerned. Wondering if it's a common thing related to fuel choice / quality.


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## Gunk (26 Jul 2020)

Cavalol said:


> Amen. I simply cannot believe the hype over VAG stuff, have owned a handful and they're average at best. If anyone actually believes they're better built than a Vauxhall or Ford for example, then the best of luck to them. Over-rated springs to mind.



I agree my 2015 Golf GTD has been average at best, it now has more faults than our 12 year old Mini. This is the last VW I buy.


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## figbat (26 Jul 2020)

gbb said:


> Engine knock ?
> I occasionally notice a metallic 'tinkling' from the low front of the car, always while accelerating at low speed, while the engine is probably under a fair bit of load. It only lasts a few seconds and only happens very occasionally.
> Opinions ? It doesnt happen often so I'm not particually concerned. Wondering if it's a common thing related to fuel choice / quality.


Pinking, or pre-ignition. It’s not good for the engine so best to avoid low speed, high load demands. Fuel quality can also affect it, particularly low RON fuel.

The phenomenon of low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) has reared it’s head in recent years with the advent of small, highly-boosted, direct-injection engines which is a sort of mega-pinking and can destroy an engine in short order. There are various theories on its cause, one being droplets of oil acting as ignition hotspots that set off the combustion ahead of the spark plug. Some makes seem to suffer it more than others and have specific requirements for their oils to counter it.


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## gbb (26 Jul 2020)

figbat said:


> Pinking, or pre-ignition. It’s not good for the engine so best to avoid low speed, high load demands. Fuel quality can also affect it, particularly low RON fuel.
> 
> The phenomenon of low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI) has reared it’s head in recent years with the advent of small, highly-boosted, direct-injection engines which is a sort of mega-pinking and can destroy an engine in short order. There are various theories on its cause, one being droplets of oil acting as ignition hotspots that set off the combustion ahead of the spark plug. Some makes seem to suffer it more than others and have specific requirements for their oils to counter it.


One thing I really should modify is trying to accelerate at low speed in a relatively low gear. A shift up may well take the load off.


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## Cavalol (26 Jul 2020)

gbb said:


> One thing I really should modify is trying to accelerate at low speed in a relatively low gear. A shift up may well take the load off.



I don't know, I'd have thought trying to accelerate from low speeds in a high gear is going to increase the problem, tbh., unless I've misunderstood your comment, in which case I apologise. Once warmed up sufficiently, thrashing a car through the gears (i.e giving it welly in each one, before changing up again) is probably a good idea to help clear it out a bit.


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## gbb (26 Jul 2020)

Cavalol said:


> I don't know, I'd have thought trying to accelerate from low speeds in a high gear is going to increase the problem, tbh., unless I've misunderstood your comment, in which case I apologise. Once warmed up sufficiently, thrashing a car through the gears (i.e giving it welly in each one, before changing up again) is probably a good idea to help clear it out a bit.


Low gear, high gear, it is open to interpretation. 
One particular section of road it happens on , I'm accelerating down a slight Incline, probably in 4th, I then often have to ease off as I merge, then accelerate, still in 4th gear. At that point I should probably shift I to 3rd as I accelerate again to stop it bogging a bit. That might help.


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## figbat (26 Jul 2020)

Depending on the engine it might help to run some ‘super’ fuel through it. Or the ignition timing might be a bit off.


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## fossyant (26 Jul 2020)

My son's mate has just bought an Audi A3 2.0 TDI S Line on a 57 plate. Front Wings badly rusted, sils rusted and the paint laquer pealing off on the bonnet and rear bumper. It doesn't show it's £200k miles inside though - it's pretty good. He's loking to 'do it up' but I've recommended getting the bonnet and bumper professionally repainted. The wings may need replacing. 

He brought it round for a 'clean up' (using my son's jet wash) and just being parked with the doors open flattened the battery - new battery. The lad does usually just buy cheap cars anyway, so isn't too concerned.


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## Accy cyclist (27 Jul 2020)

Let's talk car reversing sensors! I've discovered that my Mini D's reversing sensors aren't working. I bet they've been off for about a month. I've been thinking 'there's summat odd about this car,but i can't put my finger on it'. The other night i reversed(slowly) into a wheelie bin. I then sussed that the 'beep' beep 'beep' wasn't happening. Any of you know what's caused it? The car is due for an MOT in a month,so i suppose it can wait till it goes to a garage for a pre MOT check,but if it's summat simple(ish) like a blown fuse then even someone like me can fix it.


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## figbat (27 Jul 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> Let's talk car reversing sensors! I've discovered that my Mini D's reversing sensors aren't working. I bet they've been off for about a month. I've been thinking 'there's summat odd about this car,but i can't put my finger on it'. The other night i reversed(slowly) into a wheelie bin. I then sussed that the 'beep' beep 'beep' wasn't happening. Any of you know what's caused it? The car is due for an MOT in a month,so i suppose it can wait till it goes to a garage for a pre MOT check,but if it's summat simple(ish) like a blown fuse then even someone like me can fix it.


Are they OEM-fit sensors or aftermarket?

On other cars I have seen this sort of behaviour come from water ingress around the wiring harness and associated module. If they are aftermarket it could be a wiring issue, depending how well they have been integrated into the car's wiring.


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## Salar (27 Jul 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> Let's talk car reversing sensors! I've discovered that my Mini D's reversing sensors aren't working. I bet they've been off for about a month. I've been thinking 'there's summat odd about this car,but i can't put my finger on it'. The other night i reversed(slowly) into a wheelie bin. I then sussed that the 'beep' beep 'beep' wasn't happening. Any of you know what's caused it? The car is due for an MOT in a month,so i suppose it can wait till it goes to a garage for a pre MOT check,but if it's summat simple(ish) like a blown fuse then even someone like me can fix it.



Check the manual Accy, they might be switched off.


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## Accy cyclist (27 Jul 2020)

figbat said:


> Are they OEM-fit sensors or aftermarket?


Does that mean were they fitted by the manufacturer,or by a previous owner? I'm not sure,but i think by the manufacturer.


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## Accy cyclist (27 Jul 2020)

Salar said:


> Check the manual Accy, they might be disabled.


I don't have the manual for it..unfortunately. I've looked at some you tube videos about the problem. They waffle on and on and are quite confusing.


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## figbat (27 Jul 2020)

Accy cyclist said:


> Does that mean were they fitted by the manufacturer,or by a previous owner? I'm not sure,but i think by the manufacturer.


Yes, sorry. OEM means "original equipment manufacturer" which in this context means the car-maker. So the question was, were they part of the car's specification when first built or have they been added afterwards? Sometimes after-market additions are made by dealers to new cars as they are cheaper than specifying the option from the factory. Or they get added to cars by subsequent owners wanting to enhance their car.

Anyway, if they are factory-fitted then it's worth checking all the settings in the menus first and if not there then let the garage have a look at MOT time. A quick Google suggests the PDC module can fail and is usually housed behind some trim in the boot. Not sure if one of those OBD dongles and phone app things would find the fault?


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## gbb (10 Aug 2020)

Not really something worth creating a thread for so this will one will do...fuel economy ?
2015 Astra 1.6 non turbo, accepted as heavy (250 kg heavier than the former model), a bit underpowered and pretty unremarkable in many ways..(but a reliable steady car if thats what you want) and I read some people complain they only get 35 to 38 mpg ...mine ?..






Thats achieved over half a tank of fuel so some town, urban and A1 use although I am by my own admission a steady driver, but not that I hold folk up.
Winters a different matter though.


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## gbb (16 Aug 2020)

Tracking and tyre wear ?
Just had a lookee at my DILs 2009 Kia Rio, a bit of a shed tbh but it works but has some noticeable tyre scrubbing on the outside on the nearside, typical tracking issue I'd have thought. Jacked the car up, wheels off and had a rummage and did indeed find a track rod end sloppy...plus the ball joint on the suspension arm has a ropey looking rubber boot but no apparent ewear, but all this on the offside, opposite to the worn tyre.
The other side seems rock solid (in as much as I can reasonably diagnose it at the side of the road)
Can that wear transmit to the opposite side ?
I'm going to ask my SIL (garage mechanic) when I see him but for now, just asking ?


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## Drago (18 Aug 2020)

It will transmit the wear to the good side to some extent, as that side is now bearing extra load.


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## rogerzilla (18 Aug 2020)

gbb said:


> Engine knock ?
> I occasionally notice a metallic 'tinkling' from the low front of the car, always while accelerating at low speed, while the engine is probably under a fair bit of load. It only lasts a few seconds and only happens very occasionally.
> Opinions ? It doesnt happen often so I'm not particually concerned. Wondering if it's a common thing related to fuel choice / quality.


It's called pinking and is a mild form of knocking. Can be caused by lugging the engine in too high a gear, which also wrecks your main bearings.

Assuming you're not lugging it, other factors are:

- low octane fuel
- too much ignition advance (unlikely in these days of computer-controlled ignition but still possible on cars where the distributor or cam sensor housing can be rotated to adjust base timing)
- leaky or missing MAP sensor vacuum hoses, which means the ignition module can't sense the "load" on the engine
- bad coking
- wrong spark plugs (too hot)
- lean mixture, which could be caused by partially blocked injectors these days


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