# home built trike



## XRHYSX (10 Feb 2013)

Up until a few years a go I had never heard of or seen a recumbent bike. A new acquaintance had a bike made from two welded together, I thought this was a strange thing and never took to it.
Last year whilst surfing Youtube I found loads of videos on recumbent trikes. One of them being one from Atomic Zombie in Canada that you could buy the plans and build yourself.
So for the last 9 -10 months I've been sourcing parts to do just that.
what follows is a load of pics of how far I've got. hope you enjoy, thanks for looking, Rhys


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## XRHYSX (10 Feb 2013)

front axle tabs


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## XRHYSX (10 Feb 2013)

picked up a couple of kids bikes from the local scrap yard, then cut the head tubes off, cue lots of fun with an angle grinder


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## XRHYSX (10 Feb 2013)

a few pics that I cant put up (files to big, taken with the wifes decent camera not my phone) but basically I've welded the tabs to the head tubes to make the front steering wheels, the next few shots are taken of the rear triangle and main boom.


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## XRHYSX (10 Feb 2013)

that's about as far as I've got that I can show you in pictures, I now have to work out the caster and camber angle to weld the head tubes to the boom, I should get there in the end. Rhys


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## starhawk (11 Feb 2013)

Interesting! I'm not really a welder so for me a "trike-kit" was the only option


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## XRHYSX (11 Feb 2013)

I haven't welded for a few years since I left the panel beater trade, and I'm no engineer,
but I'm good at following instructions and patient, this is turning out to be fun,
If it turns out well then I may do it again,


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## Andrew_Culture (11 Feb 2013)

I had no idea you could even buy kit built trikes.

I'm loving the photos so far, very cool.


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## Night Train (11 Feb 2013)

Excellent, it is about time someone posted an Atomic Zombie build. Thank you for starting it, I will look forward to seeing how it develops.

I am also planning a build but of a front (two wheel) drive recumbent trike. However I am scratch building and drawing up my own plans.


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## Scoosh (11 Feb 2013)

Night Train said:


> Excellent, it is about time someone posted an Atomic Zombie build. Thank you for starting it, I will look forward to seeing how it develops.
> 
> I am also planning a build but of a front (two wheel) drive recumbent trike.* However I am scratch building and drawing up my own plans*.


Now why does this not surprise me?


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## tricksta (12 Feb 2013)

Before I got my Scorpion, I spent years on and off dreaming up designs and spending hours meticulously planning how I was going to build the design, for one reason or another it never actually materialised (loss of job, space, motivation and funds usually). Eventually a chance look at fleabay resulted in a bit of luck, spending spree and morning off work to pick up my new toy. 

Good luck with the build! Will be very satisfying when it's complete


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## XRHYSX (19 Mar 2013)

Been in the garage this afternoon, playing around with angle grinders and files. I think the Caster angles a little too relaxed, Its only tacked in place so will move them about till I'm happy but it's starting to take shape


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## starhawk (21 Mar 2013)

I see that you have placed the crossbar above the frame, wouldn't it be better to have it under?


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## byegad (21 Mar 2013)

Looks good and a cheap way into recumbenting for those with the skills. Well done and keep us posted on progress.


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## XRHYSX (21 Mar 2013)

starhawk said:


> I see that you have placed the crossbar above the frame, wouldn't it be better to have it under?


 It keeps the seat and peddles lower to the ground and keeps the centre of gravity low, that's why the cross bar is angled forward so wont foul my legs when cycling


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## starhawk (22 Mar 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> It keeps the seat and peddles lower to the ground and keeps the centre of gravity low, that's why the cross bar is angled forward so wont foul my legs when cycling


 
I was thinking more about the transfer of load, the low center could then be achieved by bending the crossbar up but that would mean having a joint midways to the ends of the crossbar, I saw a factory-built example with the joints welded yesterday, not a nice sight! So aesthetically you have achieved a better solution. Good luck with the rest of the build


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## XRHYSX (23 Mar 2013)

starhawk said:


> I was thinking more about the transfer of load, the low center could then be achieved by bending the crossbar up but that would mean having a joint midways to the ends of the crossbar, I saw a factory-built example with the joints welded yesterday, not a nice sight! So aesthetically you have achieved a better solution. Good luck with the rest of the build


Like I've said I'm no engineer, I'm building this from plans that someone else has designed, many people have used these plans with good results


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## XRHYSX (25 Mar 2013)

Today I have adjusted and fully welded up the head tubes, I also capped off the top of the backrest, at this point I ran out of gas, so a trip to Toolstation after the school run in the morning. Tomorrow I'm going to start making the steering arms


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## Andy_R (25 Mar 2013)

as an aside...that's a serious quality street habit you have mate...have you sought counselling?


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## Rev (25 Mar 2013)

Bloody amazing, well done.....I want to see it finished


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## XRHYSX (25 Mar 2013)

Andy_R said:


> as an aside...that's a serious quality street habit you have mate...have you sought counselling?


 that collection has taken a few years to accumulate, mostly Christmas presents from family, you should see my butter tub hoard


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## Andy_R (25 Mar 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> that collection has taken a few years to accumulate, mostly Christmas presents from family, you should see my butter tub hoard


They all say that...it's not my fault, it's family members.....I can do it on my own.......Utterly Buttery habits don't just go away...we are here to help you mate Just talk to us........


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## mickle (25 Mar 2013)

It looks like you've given yourself a falling rate rear suspension geometry.


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## XRHYSX (25 Mar 2013)

mickle said:


> It looks like you've given yourself a falling rate rear suspension geometry.


 sorry you've completely lost me


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## ufkacbln (26 Mar 2013)

starhawk said:


> I see that you have placed the crossbar above the frame, wouldn't it be better to have it under?


Varies from manufacturer to manufacturer

Many of the early models such as the Trice had this configuration.

Theoretically this geometry makes the trike lower and hence more stable. but places more stress on the welds


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## XRHYSX (26 Mar 2013)

Cunobelin said:


> Theoretically this geometry makes the trike lower and hence more stable. but places more stress on the welds


Best make sure those welds are good and strong then


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## XRHYSX (26 Mar 2013)

Made the steering/brake arms today.


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## Night Train (26 Mar 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> sorry you've completely lost me


A falling rate suspension is where the spring rate appears to reduce as the suspension is compressed. This is caused by the geometry of the swing arm causing the spring mounting point to move in such a way that it compresses the spring a smaller distance the further into its travel it goes.

In other words. When the suspension is unloaded a small amount of movement acts on the spring to compress it a certain amount. However, once the suspension has been loaded further, the same movement in the suspension causes a smaller amount of compression in the spring then before. So the spring feels softer the more it is compressed.

This is not good as it allows the suspension to collapse the spring in full compression without any further load.

The suspension should really be a rising rate so it gets stiffer as you load it.


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## XRHYSX (26 Mar 2013)

So I've welded the arms to the front hubs, I was in two minds whether or not to fit front brakes, thinking they would just rip the arms off in a high speed stop! but I've had them in the vice and swung on them with no movement  so think I will fit them, will be safer too


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## XRHYSX (26 Mar 2013)

And how I left her tonight,. Next is to make the track control arm. Watch this space


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## ufkacbln (27 Mar 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> View attachment 21017
> View attachment 21018
> View attachment 21019
> And how I left her tonight,. Next is to make the track control arm. Watch this space


 
A tie rod with a rose joint is the popular way to go. It allows you to alter the tracking and also has sufficient movement to allow angle alteration when the wheels turn
This is the Catrike version:


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

Cunobelin said:


> A tie rod with a rose joint is the popular way to go. It allows you to alter the tracking and also has sufficient movement to allow angle alteration when the wheels turn
> This is the Catrike version:


 that's exactly how I'm going to do it


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## mickle (27 Mar 2013)

Do you know about Ackermann?


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

mickle said:


> Do you know about Ackermann?


 yes


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## Night Train (27 Mar 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> I was in two minds whether or not to fit front brakes, thinking they would just rip the arms off in a high speed stop! but I've had them in the vice and swung on them with no movement  so think I will fit them, will be safer too




I don't think a trike can stop on rear brake alone. On mine about 99.99% of the braking force comes from the front wheels. It gets to 100% just before the chain rings hit the tarmac!
My Ratrike has front and rear disc brakes. The rear brake is only really useful for 'handbrake turns'. I don't even use it for parking as it is so ineffective. 

Arch's Catrike Dash only has front brakes, one to each hand.


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

Night Train said:


> I don't think a trike can stop on rear brake alone. On mine about 99.99% of the braking force comes from the front wheels. It gets to 100% just before the chain rings hit the tarmac!
> My Ratrike has front and rear disc brakes. The rear brake is only really useful for 'handbrake turns'. I don't even use it for parking as it is so ineffective.
> 
> Arch's Catrike Dash only has front brakes, one to each hand.


Atomic Zombie said he would trust one good rear brake but made them anyway,
I have to have something there to mount the trackrod to
and I now plan to have the kiddie trailer (with a 2 yr old) on it, so will need some good anchors


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

The rear triangle is set up for disc brakes, but brought the frame bare so will have to source a rear disc, wheel and caliper at some point


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

Night Train said:


> A falling rate suspension is where the spring rate appears to reduce as the suspension is compressed. This is caused by the geometry of the swing arm causing the spring mounting point to move in such a way that it compresses the spring a smaller distance the further into its travel it goes.
> 
> In other words. When the suspension is unloaded a small amount of movement acts on the spring to compress it a certain amount. However, once the suspension has been loaded further, the same movement in the suspension causes a smaller amount of compression in the spring then before. So the spring feels softer the more it is compressed.
> 
> ...


 Right, Ok, Its taken a while but I suddenly see what you mean Oh well, this is only a toy for mucking about on, will try harder next time, promise


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## mickle (27 Mar 2013)

Or just eliminate the rear sus altogether by welding it up.


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## Night Train (27 Mar 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> Right, Ok, Its taken a while but I suddenly see what you mean Oh well, this is only a toy for mucking about on, will try harder next time, promise


You might want to leave as designed and test it as soon as the chassis is road worthy to see if it is a problem or Mickle is just seeing things.
Altering the angle of the suspension unit may be all that is needed.



Something to think about when towing a trailer.
A while ago I had a heavy trailer on the back of the Ratrike. As I approached a slight downhill give way line I braked as I entered the right turn lane. The braking, and the downhill gradient put most of the load on the front wheels. As the trailer wasn't directly behind the trike, due to the lane change, the trailer pushed the lightly loaded rear wheel sideways nearly jack-knifing the trike.

It got me thinking about trailer brakes.....


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## jayjay (27 Mar 2013)

+1 please on the "rear brake only" problem, in my opinion only good for very low speeds or making long black tyremarks. I used to have a Triang scooter (admittedly much taller device) and used the rear tyre brake to sign most of Bridlington's pavements.


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## Tigerbiten (27 Mar 2013)

Night Train said:


> Something to think about when towing a trailer.
> A while ago I had a heavy trailer on the back of the Ratrike. As I approached a slight downhill give way line I braked as I entered the right turn lane. The braking, and the downhill gradient put most of the load on the front wheels. As the trailer wasn't directly behind the trike, due to the lane change, the trailer pushed the lightly loaded rear wheel sideways nearly jack-knifing the trike.
> 
> It got me thinking about trailer brakes.....


The only time I've jack-knifed my trike-trailer was when I was trying to do it on black ice ....... 
Apart from that, even with the trailer weighing ~40 Kg, I've never had the back-end step out of line under brakes on my ICE trike with a large Carry Freedom trailer behind it.
But it probably helps that both my front brakes are worked off a single lever, so there's no chance of a single brake twisting the trike around.

I'm another one who thinks a back brake on a tadpole trike is best used as a drag/parking brake.
It will stop you, but you'll need over 10x the distance to stop in vs using the front brakes.


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## Night Train (27 Mar 2013)

Tigerbiten said:


> The only time I've jack-knifed my trike-trailer was when I was trying to do it on black ice .......
> Apart from that, even with the trailer weighing ~40 Kg, I've never had the back-end step out of line under brakes on my ICE trike with a large Carry Freedom trailer behind it.
> But it probably helps that both my front brakes are worked off a single lever, so there's no chance of a single brake twisting the trike around.
> 
> ...


The Ratrike also has both front brakes on one lever. The problem may also be due to the relatively short wheelbase.


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

mickle said:


> Or just eliminate the rear sus altogether by welding it up.


 Err.. No Thank you


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## XRHYSX (27 Mar 2013)

Night Train said:


> Something to think about when towing a trailer.
> A while ago I had a heavy trailer on the back of the Ratrike. As I approached a slight downhill give way line I braked as I entered the right turn lane. The braking, and the downhill gradient put most of the load on the front wheels. As the trailer wasn't directly behind the trike, due to the lane change, the trailer pushed the lightly loaded rear wheel sideways nearly jack-knifing the trike.
> 
> It got me thinking about trailer brakes.....


I've had the trailer over five years now, use it on my MTB all the time for Kids, Shopping and even a tip run. I did have a twitch once, when fully loaded with the older two then 3 and 4 yrs old, stopping on a bend in the wet, Keeps you on your toes I'm going to fit a duel brake leaver to work the front brakes


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## ufkacbln (28 Mar 2013)

Trikes need two wheel trailers.

When the single wheel trailer corners, the trailer tips in alignment with the rear frame of the cycle. On a trike the rear frame stays upright. The trailer still tilts, but puts stress onthe frame, in particular the pivot for the rear triangle


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## XRHYSX (28 Mar 2013)

Cunobelin said:


> Trikes need two wheel trailers.
> 
> When the single wheel trailer corners, the trailer tips in alignment with the rear frame of the cycle. On a trike the rear frame stays upright. The trailer still tilts, but puts stress onthe frame, in particular the pivot for the rear triangle


 This is my trailer


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## Night Train (28 Mar 2013)

This was mine.




The trailer is now being dismantled as it is too heavy. The wheels are being used with my Brompton trailer.


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## XRHYSX (28 Mar 2013)

For people who don't know, this is what I'm trying to build 
View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RK2WK0ax_gU


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## XRHYSX (6 Apr 2013)

Made the track rod the other day, just finished the tabs to bolt it to the steering arms this morning,
I will weld and bolt it together tonight after the kids go to bed, need space in the garden to test it before I weld it fully







lovely weather today


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## XRHYSX (6 Apr 2013)

Steering tabs welded, Track rod attached and adjusted, one ball joint is left hand thread whilst the other is right handed, so to adjust it I just have it roll the bar back or forward


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## XRHYSX (6 Apr 2013)

Also made the handle bars, Cut two MTB stems down, and cut a kids handle bar in half, then welded them together


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## starhawk (7 Apr 2013)

*!!Beware of that washing machine!!*
No Ackerman? How would that affect the steering, or is it just a little more wear on the tires. See that it uses direct steering not a fan of that, seems very awkward to me. I wonder about those hooks on the steering arms, are they intended for anything else beside mounting the fenders?


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## Wobbly John (7 Apr 2013)

I think the in-board set of the tie-rod pivots gives the Ackerman steering. I'd guess that the 'hooks' on the stering arms are for mounting caliper brakes.

I'm makinga similar trike but making slower progress:


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## XRHYSX (7 Apr 2013)

Its got Ackerman, just doesn't show it well in the shot,
No fenders planed at the moment,
Yes those 'hooks' are for mounting caliper brakes


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## XRHYSX (7 Apr 2013)

A better shot of the Ackerman effect


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## Night Train (7 Apr 2013)

It is looking really good!
Well done!


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## starhawk (8 Apr 2013)

Well mine has drumbrakes so I didn't count on calipers, then the sturdy hooks make sense. I have fenders on the front wheels but I am planning to remove them, they are in the way when you need to go in reverse. I don't ride much in rain anyway, I will however keep the fender on the rear wheel.
Interesting to see the build progress and the different solutions, even though I would for example have changed the steering to indirect, makes more sense! even though it is more complicated


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## XRHYSX (8 Apr 2013)

starhawk said:


> Well mine has drumbrakes so I didn't count on calipers, then the sturdy hooks make sense. I have fenders on the front wheels but I am planning to remove them, they are in the way when you need to go in reverse. I don't ride much in rain anyway, I will however keep the fender on the rear wheel.
> Interesting to see the build progress and the different solutions, even though I would for example have changed the steering to indirect, makes more sense! even though it is more complicated


 
I think I may fit a fender on the rear. The indirect steering is more complicated, this is ment to be a very basic/cheap build hence no expensive drum/hub/disc front brakes,
not planning on taking this on the road or doing any sort of long mileage on it


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## Night Train (8 Apr 2013)

On my Ratrike the track is fairly narrow, and I have long arms, so I am able to reach the outside of the wheels to reverse, despite having chunky wooden mudguards on.
I do like having mudguards as my first time out, on grass, I ran over some hidden dog poo with the right front wheel and got splatted in the face! 

Drum brakes are a bit more fiddly to sort out, especially trying not to have an asymmetric layout as many brakes, drum and disc, don't come in left and right hand versions.
I am designing mine around having a front and rear SA drum backplate, as they are handed differently. If it doesn't work out then I might make my own and have twin leading shoes. It then becomes quite a major engineering project.


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## XRHYSX (8 Apr 2013)

Night Train said:


> Drum brakes are a bit more fiddly to sort out, especially trying not to have an asymmetric layout as many brakes, drum and disc, don't come in left and right hand versions.
> I am designing mine around having a front and rear SA drum backplate, as they are handed differently. If it doesn't work out then I might make my own and have twin leading shoes. It then becomes quite a major engineering project.


  anything for an easy life me


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## byegad (8 Apr 2013)

The SA Drums on my QNT are really good, my other two trikes have BB7 discs and they are good too. But the Kettwiesel originally had BB5s which were truly awful.


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## XRHYSX (20 May 2013)

The trike had been put on hold for the last few weeks, but tonight I got to make a start on the crank/bottom bracket, this is about as far as I got as some idiot left the gas on, on the welder..... and as I'm the only person who uses it I have no one to blame but myself  Gonna have to do some non welding stuff till I can get around to getting some more *




*


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## starhawk (21 May 2013)

Nice! what is the red stuff?


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## XRHYSX (21 May 2013)

starhawk said:


> Nice! what is the red stuff?


 Its just coloured card just to give a bit of clearance, the BB is going to be adjustable


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## starhawk (22 May 2013)

XRHYSX said:


> Its just coloured card just to give a bit of clearance, the BB is going to be adjustable


 
Is that advisable? I mean all BB I have seen is firmly welded to at least one tube, probably to take the strain


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## XRHYSX (22 May 2013)

starhawk said:


> Is that advisable? I mean all BB I have seen is firmly welded to at least one tube, probably to take the strain


 The BB will be able to slide up and down the boom then will be firmly bolted into place once the desired distance from the seat is found


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## Night Train (22 May 2013)

starhawk said:


> Is that advisable? I mean all BB I have seen is firmly welded to at least one tube, probably to take the strain


The BB slides on the boom instead of the boom and BB sliding inside another tube.

The card is needed as the bracket will shrink tight when welded so the card adds clearance. Without the card the bracket will be so tight on the boom as to not need bolting up. 
DAMHIKT


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## XRHYSX (23 May 2013)

Night Train said:


> The BB slides on the boom instead of the boom and BB sliding inside another tube.
> 
> The card is needed as the bracket will shrink tight when welded so the card adds clearance. Without the card the bracket will be so tight on the boom as to not need bolting up.
> DAMHIKT


 Thanks, couldn't put it better myself... I mean it, I've got it all going on in my head but when it comes to explaining things... well... words fail me


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## XRHYSX (18 Jun 2013)

Well I very nearly gave up on the trike, due to bad weather, house maintaince and some long hours at work it just kept getting put off. But the last few days I got a few more likes on this thread and a very encouraging PM 





So this morning I decided to dust it off and get some more done,

My 7yr old got a new bike for his birthday and didn't like the MTB tyres on it so he pilfered the trikes,




It was up on the table on its side with no tyres on hidden under a load of crap, but within a few hours I had drilled the holes to clamp the crank on and mounted the front brakes, I found a few lengths of chain in my box of stuff. I then went a few laps round the garden but that wasn't enough so I attached the trailer and went around the park at the bottom of the road with my 2yr old


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## XRHYSX (18 Jun 2013)

Tomorrow I will be starting on the seat


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## SWSteve (18 Jun 2013)

Loved reading this thread. Cracking looking trike, one question though, do the bars feel wide apart when you're traveling? As they look like you would have arms out as far as possible


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## XRHYSX (18 Jun 2013)

It's not to bad, I've got them out quite far as its turns quite sharp and the handle ends up right under my backside, just waiting for a video up load to youtube, watch this space........


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## Scoosh (18 Jun 2013)

Nothing like having it in a ride-able state to motivate and encourage !


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## XRHYSX (18 Jun 2013)

Play time


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## starhawk (19 Jun 2013)

It's beginning to look like a trike But those steering arms looks very queer, a sharp turn and you are likely to loose the outside one, besides that it's more comfortable in the long run to have the hands vertical rather than horizontal. And what about that "spear" you have in the front  looks pretty scary, or are you planning to mount a bumper there?


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## byegad (19 Jun 2013)

I tend to agree that the bars could use some work, the bend in the wrist to use those might prove uncomfortable. Time and a few miles will tell. Great that you have the skills to get this far and I'm sure you'll end up with a workable ride soon. Well done.


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## Scoosh (19 Jun 2013)

I saw the smile ! 

 thus far ...


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## young Ed (10 Dec 2013)

anything happen with this one then???
Cheers Ed


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## XRHYSX (10 Dec 2013)

Hi, it still looks pretty much like it does in the video, but hopefully will dust it off in the new year with a view to finish it for the summer,

thanks for the interest


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## young Ed (10 Dec 2013)

awesome go for it
seats are easy to make!


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## XRHYSX (2 Feb 2014)

Some more bits done over January,

I've moved the mount for the suspension,
straightened the handle bars to a more comfortable angle and fitted a chain guide wheel
I have also made a start on the seat, still work in progress.


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## young Ed (2 Feb 2014)

get some of this sort of stuff 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/upholster...n_Cushions_Throws_LE&var=&hash=item4d09803036
and some of this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item4d179b40f0

a staple gun and stanley knife and your set to go! 
Cheers Ed


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## fixedfixer (1 Apr 2014)

So how are you moving along with the build? Looking good so far.


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## XRHYSX (11 Feb 2015)

Hi everyone,
this trike is now for sale
It's in pretty much the state you see it in these pictures
I had a lot of fun with it last summer, but a major house move a new job and a new hobby, means this trike is not going to get finished,
Its all working in its ratty state
all it needs is a comfy seat and a lick of paint could do with a new chain too,

It's now located in Plymouth, I would prefer collection on payment, but could deliver with in a reasonable distance for fuel money or could dis-mantle if you sort a courier, I'm open to sensible offers please, thanks Rhys


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## starhawk (13 Feb 2015)

Andrew_Culture said:


> I had no idea you could even buy kit built trikes.



Well when you buy a trike overseas you get the parts in a box and have to screw it together yourself, that is for me a "trike-kit"


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## classic33 (18 Feb 2015)

XRHYSX said:


> Hi everyone,
> this trike is now for sale
> It's in pretty much the state you see it in these pictures
> I had a lot of fun with it last summer, but a major house move a new job and a new hobby, means this trike is not going to get finished,
> ...


Sorry to hear that you've had to put it up for sale. After the work you put into it. 
Hopefully you get what you want pricewise, hopefully a bit more.

Best o'luck in the new job as well.


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## screenman (18 Feb 2015)

What is a sensible offer?


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## Phaeton (18 Feb 2015)

I think this was a great project, unfortunately you are too far from me to consider finishing it off, but it's got me thinking about building my own this summer, I was looking at the plans on that American site, but I have to admit I'd prefer under seat steering but have suspension at the back, but they don't seem to offer that.


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## classic33 (18 Feb 2015)

@young Ed, you get the Atomic Zombie book?


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## voyager (18 Feb 2015)

Hi Folks 

Here is a thread on AZ that I wrote to retro fit USS on a street fox

http://forum.atomiczombie.com/showthread.php/8540-Adding-USS-to-a-streetfox?highlight=

regards emma


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## young Ed (19 Feb 2015)

classic33 said:


> @young Ed, you get the Atomic Zombie book?


nah, sorry
sort of lost the idea of building a trike  a fair bit of work came my way  and a few other bits and so i had no time for workshop projects, TBH a new road bike (much needed) came my way so didn't even feel much of a need
oh well, someday i will build a trike. although it just might not be for a few years until i have settled down work wise and work for my self 
Cheers Ed


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## XRHYSX (23 Feb 2015)

screenman said:


> What is a sensible offer?



Ive spent just over £200 on materials and a new factory one will set you back over a grand,


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## classic33 (24 Feb 2015)

XRHYSX said:


> Ive spent just over £200 on materials and a new factory one will set you back over a grand,


Not forgetting the time you've put into it.


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## XRHYSX (24 Feb 2015)

classic33 said:


> Not forgetting the time you've put into it.


Some people don't appreciate the time some people put in to making things, just because China can make it quicker an cheaper


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## screenman (24 Feb 2015)

XRHYSX said:


> Ive spent just over £200 on materials and a new factory one will set you back over a grand,



I am still none the wiser, so I am out. 

If you do not know what you want for it can I suggest an auction site maybe the way to go.


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## voyager (24 Feb 2015)

screenman said:


> I am still none the wiser, so I am out.
> 
> If you do not know what you want for it can I suggest an auction site maybe the way to go.



I would suggest an *off the thread *PM might have been the way to go

FYI
I sold 2 finished Streetfox variants last year and got £400 and £425





they were both ready to ride ,

this was the £425 one
Fitted with 24" wheels, 18 gears, Under Seat Steering and straight boom these were going to be our holiday trikes before I built the 20/20 e-trikes The length was the reason I sold them as they would not fit in the boot of the mondeo with panniers

Unfortunately as a seller you will never recuperate the reward for building one as UK wages/rewards are much higher than china and if built in the UK would represent a price tag in excess of £3000 to make viable as an income . 

As a buyer you get something that was built with care in the UK that will last and be repairable unlike some imports !!!!

Down side for someone buying the part built is the strip, spray and refit that takes 2 x 1/2 days and 2 days to spray with rattle cans or £120 approx to have powder coated

Just my tupenny worth

regards emma


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## young Ed (24 Feb 2015)

not interested in buying this great build my self but if i were to put a price tag on it i would say easily £300-£350 minimum
i have dealt (both bought and sold) hand made bits my self (leather work, wood work, knives, axes etc) and am used to and understand why these items go for a fair hefty sum due to the sheer amount of work and effort that has gone into such a piece
Cheers Ed


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