# Genesis Day One Cross - Mudguard advice!



## fleetey (19 Jul 2010)

[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Hi[/font]
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[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Can anyone recommend some mudguards for my Genesis Day One Cross please?[/font]
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[font="'Comic Sans MS"]I know it's a while until winter..............but it'll creep up![/font]
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[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Chris[/font]


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## djb1971 (19 Jul 2010)

I've got sks bluemels on mine, they're on sale at crc!


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## fleetey (19 Jul 2010)

[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Thanks for that - just having a look over at crc.........what size did you go for?[/font]


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## djb1971 (19 Jul 2010)

fleetey said:


> Thanks for that - just having a look over at crc.........what size did you go for?



I went for the narrow 35mm but I'm running 23c tyres, if you're using the cross tyres the 45mm will be fine. The narrow may also work but they may not cover the tyre width entirely and may have to have a bigger clearance because of the tyre profile.


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## fleetey (19 Jul 2010)

[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Thanks again! - you've sort of answered another question - narrower road tyres! - again, what would you recommend?![/font]
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[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Sorry for more questions![/font]


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## djb1971 (19 Jul 2010)

I've got Michelin Krylions on at the moment but it depends on what you're using the bike for. I just use it for road training when the weather is crap. The krylions would do for fast commuting but you may be better off getting something to keep the fairies away if the commute is rough.


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## MacB (19 Jul 2010)

If this is the new Day One Cross with drop bars, ie the orange one then it should come with Alex-19 rims. The ERTO measurement on these rims is 622x17, where 622mm is the wheel diameter and 17mm is the internal rim width, ie where the tyre fits. So matching a tyre to this rim means that you look for one with an ERTO measurement within the range 622x25 to 622x37. These numbers are taken from Sheldon Brown and are acknowledged as a bit conservative, you could probably run a 622x23 or 622x40 tyre on the rims. Something in the middle may give the best all round ride characteristics, so 622x28 or 622x32. By the way 622 is the same as 700c.

For the tyre itself then the choice is endless, if using on the road then less tread is good as it provides more grip. Panaracer, Schwalbe and Continental all seem to have a good reputation. Ultimate in puncture protection then Schwalbe M+ will get a lot of votes, but they are heavy and not fast. It's not unusual to find people running M+ in the Winter and then a lighter tyre the rest of the year. More crud on the roads and it's no fun getting a puncture when it's cold and dark.


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## fleetey (20 Jul 2010)

[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Thanks guys for all the help![/font]
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[font="'Comic Sans MS"]By the way MacB - did you ever get the Day One? - I seem to remember you in a few posts about it[/font]
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[font="'Comic Sans MS"]Chris[/font]


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## MacB (20 Jul 2010)

fleetey said:


> Thanks guys for all the help!
> 
> By the way MacB - did you ever get the Day One? - I seem to remember you in a few posts about it
> 
> Chris



Still on the shopping list, other things have had to take priority as my wife fails to understand that an unlimited cycling budget is required.


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## fleetey (23 Jan 2011)

]OK..........it was sometime ago I posted the question about mudguards......and I finally have some.

I bought a set of SKS guards and am having a right old time trying to fit them.....

Apart from the integrated end caps which means you have to keep taking the stays off to shorten them, I having problems with the bridge near the rear brake.

Have attached a photo - the adjustable SKS bridge needs to bolt to the rear brake bridge - but the hole on the bike is in a different direction.......

Due to the way the wheel comes out of the bike, I can't fit the mudguard first with the wheel out!

Thanks in advance!

Chris


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## dave r (24 Jan 2011)

fleetey said:


> ]OK..........it was sometime ago I posted the question about mudguards......and I finally have some.
> 
> I bought a set of SKS guards and am having a right old time trying to fit them.....
> 
> ...




Fit the mudguard with the stays slightly long and give yourself clearance to pull the wheel out, If you look in my gallery you can see the rear mudguard rigged like that on my Pearson, my trusty commuter. You might be able to dispense with the bracket and use cable ties instead, or you might get away with flattening the bracket so it will fit underneath the brake bridge, bolt through from the bottom and nut fitted on top, you might have to fit the bolt through the mudguard, or shape the bracket to make room for the bolt head.


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## fleetey (25 Jan 2011)

Thanks for that Dave - never thought of leaving enough length on the guard stay to remove the wheel......!

Cheers

Chris


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## threebikesmcginty (25 Jan 2011)

fleetey said:


> the adjustable SKS bridge needs to bolt to the rear brake bridge - but the hole on the bike is in a different direction.......



I put the bracket on and then used cable ties to fix it to the frame. Bit of a faff and a botch but it seems OK. If it doesn't work out in the long run then I may take a drill to it but it's too new for that yet.


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## fleetey (25 Jan 2011)

Just had a look at your bike threebikes..........very nice and I see how you've fitted the guards.

Any issues with removing the wheel with the guards on?

Chris


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## MacB (25 Jan 2011)

I drilled through the mudguard and fitted directly upwards with as flat a headed bolt as I could find...didn't like doing it but result was rock solid. This was on a Pompetamine frame but exatly the same set up. You can leave the stays longer to allow for wheel removal etc but this experience led me to sell Pomp frame and buy Vaya. If you want to mark where to drill, I got mudguard all fitted barring the bridge. Then I used a marker pen on the bottom of the bridge and pushed mudguard into position, up against it, to leave a mark on the guard. Use a bright coloured marker and you'll get a nice round target to drill through. 

Call me picky etc, but I've now used vertical, horizontal and track end dropouts and I won't be buying a frame with track end ones again.


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## threebikesmcginty (25 Jan 2011)

fleetey said:


> Any issues with removing the wheel with the guards on?



Haven't had to yet, that back wheel would be a pain if it had to come off, the mudguard would have to come off too. 
If it was just a puncture it'd be a repair with the wheel staying on the bike, if possible, as it's an Alfine hub.


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## dave r (25 Jan 2011)

threebikesmcginty said:


> Haven't had to yet, that back wheel would be a pain if it had to come off, the mudguard would have to come off too.
> If it was just a puncture it'd be a repair with the wheel staying on the bike, if possible, as it's an Alfine hub.



There's always the option of fitting these
http://www.sjscycles...r-pair-prod666/
to the back to give the option of just pulling the mudguard stays out then pushing them back in when you have done.


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## fleetey (27 Jan 2011)

Thanks for the different suggestions.

I've settled on leaving the rear mudguard stays a bit longer to enable wheel removal, and wiring on the rear bracket onto the brake bridge.

All works fine!

Cheers

Chris


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