# Beginner: What essential gear to purchase?



## Merlin86 (15 May 2019)

Hello forum, 

I want to start commuting into work by bicycle, it will be a 35 mile round trip so probably above average. I looked at a couple of the sticky posts but couldn't find any obvious guides in terms of clothing, therefore my first post.

Been commuting into work by motorcycle past 5 years, so I went through the journey of buying a little scooter then upgrading a few times until arriving to a sport bike and paying £60 for a helmet to £400 as i got more familiar with brands, quality and functionality. 

As i embark in this new journey, I'd like to start more informed and buy the right gear from the get go. I have decided on what bicycle to buy based on the road conditions - but I have no clue what clothing brands to aim for, let alone what the list looks like. 

So, bearing in mind that the one way trip is 17.5 miles, what should i buy so that i stay as comfortable as possible and could you provide any specific recommendations of retailers to shop from please?

Many thanks


----------



## mjr (15 May 2019)

It probably depends what bike you bought. I'd just wear good outdoors clothes from the usual town shops, but I'm riding a roadster and it's probably different on a road bike or gravel bike (more leant forwards more of the time, plus probably no chain/mud/coat guards). So: what are you riding?


----------



## biggs682 (15 May 2019)

@Merlin86 on that kind of mileage the most important bits are comfort and reliabilty 
And the ability to be able to wash and change at work place


----------



## ianrauk (15 May 2019)

17.5 miles each way every day (if you are planning on cycle commuting everyday) is a fair old trip.
Is your fitness up to it? 17.5 miles through traffic can easy take over an hour, dependent on the road conditions of course. Traffic, Wind, rain etc.
Have you cycled the route yet? It will work both your body, mind and your bike hard commuting that far every day. Especially in the colder, wetter months.

As for 'Sports Bike' I am guessing you mean a road bike or possibly a hybrid, in that case don't wear every day clothing for a journey that long. Get specific cycling gear. As Biggsy says, comfort and reliability is the key.


----------



## vickster (15 May 2019)

Where in the world will you be commuting. Some places are wetter, windier and colder than others for starters

17.5 miles, you’ll likely need to allow at least 90 minutes to ride, lock up, get showered or changed...plus at some point you will get a puncture so make sure you know how to fix (and carry the stuff to do so)


----------



## CXRAndy (15 May 2019)

For the body, several pairs of cycle bibs, good quality. A few pairs of tops and then weather protection, lightweight rain jacket, thicker gabba jacket for colder days. gloves fingerless also full finger for cold days. Cycle shoes with cleats and pedals. 

Lights if you work shift or winter commute
Mudguards would be very useful go keep most of the crap off you on poor days

The list goes on


----------



## Reynard (15 May 2019)

I wouldn't splurge and buy everything in one go. Though on a 35 mile round trip, you probably are heading into the realms of wanting proper cycling kit to ride in rather than everyday clothes. It's a comfort thing really. Start with the basics (shorts or tights, a jersey or two, a base layer, helmet, gloves and a lightweight windproof jacket) and add to that as and when you need it.

If you're looking at bang-for-buck, then Decathlon is as good a place to start as any. Their stuff is well regarded by loads of people on here.

Cycling glasses without question. No need to go for anything fancy, the basic £3.99 clear jobbies from Decathlon will do to keep grit and insects out of your eyes.

You'll also want some luggage capacity on the bike to take your gubbins, so rack, panniers, rack bag, that sort of thing. Equally, a backpack would do the same job, but on that length of ride it's not likely to be terribly comfortable.


----------



## mjr (15 May 2019)

ianrauk said:


> As for 'Sports Bike' I am guessing you mean a road bike or possibly a hybrid, in that case don't wear every day clothing for a journey that long. Get specific cycling gear. As Biggsy says, comfort and reliability is the key.


I read "sports bike" as the type of motorbike.

As for specific cycling gear, the op would like some suggested brands. I doubt my Dare2b, mountain where house and M&S will be much use!


----------



## vickster (15 May 2019)

Specific brands will depend on the OPs budget (and potentially bodyshape)...and gender (he or she)


----------



## nickyboy (15 May 2019)

Do what most people do when starting out: just have a look in the wardrobe for comfortable, loose fitting clothes and see how you go on.
If you're ok with that, cool, you're sorted. But maybe consider a few cheap bits and pieces such as cycling shorts (with padding), sunglasses (to keep insects out of the eyes), helmet (big debate about this but I would consider this important). 
Key is don't splurge a load of cash. Small steps


----------



## Phaeton (15 May 2019)

0 to 2x 17.5 miles a day is a big jump, especially if you intend to do it 5 days a week, you may have to consider day on day off for a couple of weeks, but that clearly depends on your level of fitness.


----------



## midlife (15 May 2019)

Can you start by driving half way there, parking up and cycling in and out from that point. Zero to 35 miles a day seems a big jump.


----------



## slowmotion (15 May 2019)

I've always found that keeping morale up in lousy weather is quite important. Keep your feet and your hands warm.....and get a couple of buffs for your head, neck and face.


----------



## SkipdiverJohn (15 May 2019)

midlife said:


> Can you start by driving half way there, parking up and cycling in and out from that point. Zero to 35 miles a day seems a big jump.



Its an unrealistic distance for all but the most dedicated and fittest rider. I wouldn't do it, even if I was fit enough - because I know I would very soon get extremely fed up with being forced to spend at least three hours a day engaged in physically demanding activity just to get to and from work. Never mind the effect of work itself.
On a calm, fine day, with no wind, no hills, no darkness, no rain, and no need to carry stuff it might be tolerable for alternate days but personally I think you are delusional and setting yourself up to fail. Finding somewhere to park up five or six miles short of your workplace and riding the last third of the journey I see as realistic and sustainable, but 35 miles a day plus doing a day's work on top, in all weathers?? I'd wager a large sum of money you will jack it in within weeks.


----------



## nickyboy (16 May 2019)

Maybe it would help if the OP could let us know what the commute is like (basically if it's flat or not) and what sort of job he/she has

If it's a flat 17 miles and he/she has a sedentary job then I think it's doable (with probably a few days off here and there). Lumpy commute and then on your feet all day....nah, too hard for all but a really battle-hardened rider.


----------



## Paulus (16 May 2019)

I would go with the old advice of fitting mudguards. They really do keep a load of crud off of the person. No muddy lines up the back or front.


----------



## Merlin86 (23 May 2019)

Thank you for all the replies so far, that is very nice and helpful. Gloves, helmet, shorts, jacket and shoes are priority then. 

To answer some questions:
1) Male, reasonably fit
2) Going from Northolt (W. London) to City of London (mainly through grand union canal)
3) I dont expect to commute this distance 5x a week for most of the year. I will very much continue to commute in on my motorcycle. Realistically, i am looking at commuting in 2 to 3 x a week. This may also be a seasonal ambition as I dont know what cycling will be like in the winter, I know very well how it is on a motorcycle though!

Having said that, in terms of bike accessories I suppose I will need a rack (for luggage), mudguards and spare tyre replacement kit. Would you be so kind to recommend some specific brands which are known for quality and durability please?


----------



## Phaeton (23 May 2019)

I would recommend to upgrade to slime filled innertubes


----------



## vickster (23 May 2019)

Merlin86 said:


> Thank you for all the replies so far, that is very nice and helpful. Gloves, helmet, shorts, jacket and shoes are priority then.
> 
> To answer some questions:
> 1) Male, reasonably fit
> ...


Mudguards, SKS Chromoplastics
Rack, Topeak plus slide on trunk bag with fold out panniers 

What bike?


----------



## Phaeton (23 May 2019)

vickster said:


> Rack, Topeak plus slide on trunk bag with fold out panniers


Just bought these very impressed


----------



## vickster (23 May 2019)

Phaeton said:


> Just bought these very impressed


Fail without the panniers if commuting


----------



## Phaeton (23 May 2019)

vickster said:


> Fail without the panniers if commuting


True, but not serious commuter & can manage with the small (8L) version, I was concerned about the pannier style ones, due to the weight limit of the rack it's only 9Kgs


----------



## Venod (23 May 2019)

Phaeton said:


> I would recommend to upgrade to slime filled innertubes



Or tubeless tyres.


----------



## vickster (23 May 2019)

Phaeton said:


> True, but not serious commuter & can manage with the small (8L) version, I was concerned about the pannier style ones, due to the weight limit of the rack it's only 9Kgs


I’ve never had an sue even with the panniers full. That’s a fixed rack not seatpost version


----------



## Phaeton (23 May 2019)

vickster said:


> I’ve never had an sue even with the panniers full. That’s a fixed rack not seatpost version


Mine's a V-type seat post one, hence why I was being circumspect about the weight


----------



## vickster (23 May 2019)

Phaeton said:


> Mine's a V-type seat post one, hence why I was being circumspect about the weight


Fair enough, not keen on those as I’ve been told they can move (and I can carry a lot of stuff)


----------



## Phaeton (23 May 2019)

vickster said:


> Fair enough, not keen on those as I’ve been told they can move (and I can carry a lot of stuff)


Lol I bought it because the other one before did so much so it nearly got in the spokes. But so far so good


----------



## Vantage (26 May 2019)

Merlin86 said:


> Thank you for all the replies so far, that is very nice and helpful. Gloves, *helmet*, shorts, jacket and shoes are priority then.



I'd suggest you read up on cycling helmets before deeming one a priority. 
Whereas your motorcycle helmets are designed and made to save your life, a cycle helmet is designed and made to be light, ventilated and to look pretty. They aren't even advertised by the manufacturers as safety items.


----------



## Phaeton (26 May 2019)

Vantage said:


> They aren't even advertised by the manufacturers as safety items.


----------



## Vantage (26 May 2019)

Phaeton said:


>



I know I know 

'wanders off to the naughty corner in the helmet thread'


----------



## Bazzer (26 May 2019)

As someone who also does 17.5 miles each way, keep an eye out for bargain clothing you can use for layers. Aldi and Decathlon are good, but there is also the Found a Bargain thread on here. 
But be prepared to spend on shorts and leggings as your backside spends a lot of time on the saddle.
As we are heading toward Summer, you are spared the sudden expense of warm clothes, lights etc., but I would say definitely a waterproof "breathable" jacket such as Altura and waterproof bootees/overshoes. A wet upper body and/or feet is soul destroying on longer journeys.
Moving towards Autumn and Winter, you may want to consider a Buff and a warmer base layer. You will also find advice on the forum about lights. Things like gloves are depend upon your tolerance to cold, but as Autumn approaches you will get a feel for the types you may need.


----------



## Pat "5mph" (26 May 2019)

Hello @Merlin86, welcome to CC!
I commute (only 5 miles) every day, have done so for the last 8 years.
I know London's weather is much milder than Glasgow's, so I won't tell you about ice tyres 
Essential commuting items are, for me, in order:
A safe _cycling_ route: this may not always be the same, I change mine slightly according to day of the week, time of day, even to the weather.
On a Monday for example,, some cycle paths are full of broken glass.
A sturdy bike.
If your London canal is anything like out Glasgow canals, a sturdy hybrid/cyclocross bike with 35/38mm Marathon green guard tyres (say 80% puncture proof, I had two punctures with them, ever), or Marathon plus tyres, the latter are really puncture proof (say 90%) but also really heavy.
Mudguards, a sturdy rack and waterproof pannier bags.
I recommend Ortlieb or Vaude.
Good commuting lights, the front one powerful enough to see.
I like the CatEye range.
Waterproof(ish) jacket, I like the Altura range - completely waterproof in general means you get a boil in the bag effect.
Waterproof socks, Aldi's are perfectly adequate.
Something to keep your head and neck warm and dry(ish), I like fleece lined skullcaps and buffs, warm beanie hats - not woolen, wool does not dry easy.
Gloves: I have many, in winter my favorites are a cheap thermal pair.
I also have more expensive ones (Sealskins) but I find them a bit restrictive, warm though.
You better carry a spare inner tube or two, the pump of your choice, and the know how of puncture repairs.
There is also the option of subscribing to a cyclist rescue service in case of a break down.
The rest is up to you, experiment with layering clothing, with shoes and with pedals.
Summer is almost here: enjoy your bike.


----------



## nickyboy (28 May 2019)

Vantage said:


> I'd suggest you read up on cycling helmets before deeming one a priority.
> Whereas your motorcycle helmets are designed and made to save your life, a cycle helmet is designed and made to be light, ventilated and to look pretty. They aren't even advertised by the manufacturers as safety items.



Regardless of the rights and wrongs of the above, loved ones often regard helmets as beneficial safety items and, as such, worry more if a cyclist isn't wearing one. That alone would be a reason for me to wear one


----------



## ColinJ (28 May 2019)

nickyboy said:


> Regardless of the rights and wrongs of the above, loved ones often regard helmets as beneficial safety items and, as such, worry more if a cyclist isn't wearing one. That alone would be a reason for me to wear one


That is actually why I started wearing one. My elderly parents were worriers and it reduced their stress a little so I mainly did it for them. 

TBH, I had also fallen off a couple of times and smacked my head on the road and decided that I didn't want to do that again. (I don't want to get into a scientific discussion about how effective helmets are in given scenarios, but if I could have stopped myself in mid-flight and put a helmet on before I nutted the road, I would have done!)

Yes, I could have avoided the crash by NOT standing up and sprinting (in which case, I wouldn't have launched myself headfirst over the bars when the chain came off...) but where's the fun in that!


----------



## Ming the Merciless (28 May 2019)

You don't need bib type cycling shorts for the distance. Just nice quick drying and comfy shorts is fine. After I'd commuted a few weeks I invested in a few wicking t shirts so didn't have to wash my kit every night. They don't have to be cycling jerseys to start if you have luggage carrying capacity on the bike. I also got some Tesco value towels for the shower at work.


----------



## Phaeton (28 May 2019)

nickyboy said:


> Regardless of the rights and wrongs of the above, loved ones often regard helmets as beneficial safety items and, as such, worry more if a cyclist isn't wearing one. That alone would be a reason for me to wear one


I am just going through this now sort of like @ColinJ but mine is my grandson who wears one because of my daughter & it just keeps family harmony so I bought one today


YukonBoy said:


> You don't need bib type cycling shorts for the distance.


True but depending on your shape bib shorts are better, I much prefer them & the price of DHB/Decathlon ones aren't bad.


----------



## BlackSchmuck (28 May 2019)

Absolutely the route is the most important- especially in London. Brush up on your road skills - as a motorcyclist you'll be aware of this - but you're even more vulnerable now. Find a safe route you enjoy - even if it's a bit longer.
A decent rack and waterproof panniers - but defo try Lidl and Aldi and Halfords! Decathlon stuff is brilliant. Get a bright rear flashing light - I use one all year round.
Warm gloves in winter and glasses all year round.
Think about tubeless wheels and tires!

Get a decent helmet (why not?!) with a peak - it'll keep the sun and rain out of your face.....


----------



## mjr (29 May 2019)

nickyboy said:


> Regardless of the rights and wrongs of the above, loved ones often regard helmets as beneficial safety items and, as such, worry more if a cyclist isn't wearing one. That alone would be a reason for me to wear one


If they love you back, they won't want you to wear one after they see how ineffective they are, even compared to 1990s voluntary standard helmets.


----------



## Rickshaw Phil (29 May 2019)

*Mod note:*

You should all know the rules on helmet debate by now . Advice about choosing a helmet is fine in this thread but discussion about whether or not helmets are effective goes in here: https://www.cyclechat.net/forums/helmet-discussions.174/

No more after this point please.


----------



## BlackSchmuck (29 May 2019)

I think its fair enough to edit someone's post to remove certain elements re the 'debate' - but the main thrust of the sentence could/should have been left in - especially when you leave all the above posts in - which basically hijack a thread.
Hey-ho - I'm a newbie to this forum (not the world) - but a little surprised by the ott mod.
I haven't read all the site's rules (and don't intend to) and maybe I'll incure the wrath of the mod bods again...I promise I won't ever mention the 'h' word again...
Sorry for hijacking the thread and hope the OP has fun on his comute!


----------



## Rickshaw Phil (29 May 2019)

BlackSchmuck said:


> I think its fair enough to edit someone's post to remove certain elements re the 'debate' - but the main thrust of the sentence could/should have been left in - especially when you leave all the above posts in - which basically hijack a thread.
> Hey-ho - I'm a newbie to this forum (not the world) - but a little surprised by the ott mod.
> I haven't read all the site's rules (and don't intend to) and maybe I'll incure the wrath of the mod bods again...I promise I won't ever mention the 'h' word again...
> Sorry for hijacking the thread and hope the OP has fun on his comute!


Since you're new to the site I'll be nice and partially reinstate what one of my colleagues removed. For reference for yourself and for anyone else who is new, helmet debate is controlled because many members have very strong feelings one way or another meaning that debates on the subject in the past have often descended into argument and name-calling at some point.

Back on topic from here please.


----------



## Ming the Merciless (29 May 2019)

For commuting tyres you want something with reasonable puncture protection and possibly a light tread for the towpath. Think something like a Schwalbe Marathon and go from there. You are looking for what might typically be found in the touring tyres section of a website. Reliability is what you want for a 17.5 mile commute on mixed surfaces.


----------



## netman (29 May 2019)

Keep spare sets of clothes at work (both work clothes and cycling kit) - if you get caught in a real downpour, even lightweight cycling kit can still be wet after a day at work... not nice putting it back on then! And it's only a matter of time before you forget something like socks when packing your bag in the morning! A drybag like these https://www.wiggle.co.uk/osprey-ultralight-drysack-12-1/ is worth putting your clothes in, even inside a saddlebag or pannier - worth £7 for guaranteed dry clothes and phone etc!). As for specific brands, take a look at Gore Bike Wear - really good stuff, particularly their goretex jackets.


----------



## davidphilips (30 May 2019)

If and i mean if you want to buy a helmet there are some great deals on Amazon, i bought a Catlike Olula with free delivery for £15.14, nice summer helmet, the prices seem to change and go up and down like a yo-yo, also seen the Bren helmets on sale a few weeks ago for £20 some thing on Amazon and they are a really comfortable helmet not many vents so not for the warm weather but the most comfortable helmet i have even worn.


----------



## Phaeton (30 May 2019)

davidphilips said:


> If and i mean if you want to buy a helmet there are some great deals on Amazon, i bought a Catlike Olula with free delivery for £15.14, nice summer helmet, the prices seem to change and go up and down like a yo-yo, also seen the Bren helmets on sale a few weeks ago for £20 some thing on Amazon and they are a really comfortable helmet not many vents so not for the warm weather but the most comfortable helmet i have even worn.


Just another recommendation is a Bell from Decathlon £24.99 https://www.decathlon.co.uk/paradox-mountain-bike-helmet-id_8382585.html


----------



## MichaelW2 (30 May 2019)

First I would set a budget for commuting by any other means (public transport, motorbike etc). This sets a reasonable upper limit to your spending. Set a budget over 5 years of daily commuting. You may not ride every day but it is a useful excercise.

Regarding kit.
For bike
Sks chromoplastic bolt on mudguards.
Puncture resistant tyres of appropriate width.
Lights
Bolt on Rear rack 
One rear pannier.

For you
Padded cycling shorts
Leggings
Gloves or mitts
Woollen socks
Buff
Windproof not waterproof top, bright reflective.
Waterproof top bright reflective.
Waterproof pants
Sealskins wp socks.
Wicking T shirt or jersey, short sleeve
Light fleece midlayer
Eye protection
Helmet

Carry kit
Spare inner tube
Puncture repair kit
Bike tool, pump, small blade for removing shards.
Ductape, zipties for fixing anything.
Basic first aid patch kit inc antiseptic wipes.

Clipless pedal shoes are optional but useful for longer faster rides.

You dont need premium brands.
Obvs you adjust your kit for weather conditions but you can often require an extra layer if you stop for repairs, return later at night.
Charged mobile phone can replace map, compass, torch, 10p coin and clean handkerchief.


----------



## Reynard (30 May 2019)

Phaeton said:


> Just another recommendation is a Bell from Decathlon £24.99 https://www.decathlon.co.uk/paradox-mountain-bike-helmet-id_8382585.html



That's what I've got. Comfy, doesn't make your head look like a mushroom and an added bonus, it matches my bikes.


----------



## Reynard (30 May 2019)

I'd add a £20 note to the "carry kit". That way you've always got cash on you, just in case.


----------



## Heltor Chasca (30 May 2019)

Reynard said:


> I'd add a £20 note to the "carry kit". That way you've always got cash on you, just in case.



Great idea. Where can I buy one and how much do these cost?


----------



## Phaeton (30 May 2019)

Heltor Chasca said:


> Great idea. Where can I buy one and how much do these cost?


I have some for sale at £29.99 + £3.49 next work day delivery, but you must send payment as Gift via Paypoo


----------



## MichaelW2 (30 May 2019)

Looking at some peoples carry kit, you might think Shoot a fella could have a pretty good weekend in Vegas with all that stuff!


----------



## davidphilips (30 May 2019)

MichaelW2 said:


> Looking at some peoples carry kit, you might think Shoot a fella could have a pretty good weekend in Vegas with all that stuff!



LOl, Perhaps even have a lot more fun than cycling in the rain, breathing in the exhaust fumes and avoiding the car drivers that take great delight in trying to drive as close as they can with there horns sounding.


----------



## nickyboy (3 Jun 2019)

MichaelW2 said:


> First I would set a budget for commuting by any other means (public transport, motorbike etc). This sets a reasonable upper limit to your spending. Set a budget over 5 years of daily commuting. You may not ride every day but it is a useful excercise.
> 
> Regarding kit.
> For bike
> ...



All cyclists have different opinions on what constitutes "essential kit". All I will say is that I've been cycling a few years now and have done several tens of thousands of miles and I don't have a lot of the stuff on the above list


----------



## MichaelW2 (3 Jun 2019)

nickyboy said:


> All cyclists have different opinions on what constitutes "essential kit". All I will say is that I've been cycling a few years now and have done several tens of thousands of miles and I don't have a lot of the stuff on the above list



The OP was planning for a long commute. Short and medium length commutes can be done with less kit.
For my 2x5 mile commute I wear normal clothes but do carry the same toolkit as for long day rides. For 2-3 miles into town I don't carry any repair kit but my bike is always equipped with lights (dynohub), luggage rack and mudguards.
Out of habit I always wear a helmet and gloves, which have saved my hands from a skinning on two occasions.


----------



## icowden (3 Jun 2019)

Hmmmm....

I don't commute *that* far but I have almost everything on that list. I don't bother with leggings, special socks or tshirt and I wear sun glasses for eye protection. I have a windproof waterproof rather than two separate items. But then my regular commute is only 3 miles each way. If i were going the full 21 miles to work, I'd probably get the leggings and tshirt.

I have an Osprey backpack rather than a rack and pannier (drawback is sweaty back)

Carry kit I only take on long rides. 

Pretty good list if you ask me.


----------



## MichaelW2 (3 Jun 2019)

icowden said:


> Hmmmm....
> 
> have a windproof waterproof rather than two separate items. But then my regular commute is only 3 miles each way.



Few waterproofs are breathable enough for cycling, you just put up with the clamminess because the alternative is wetter. I prefer a windproof for cooler dry, damp and light shower conditions. They are far more breathable and comfortable. With a lightweight waterproof in the bag, you are ready for wetter and colder conditions. The cheaper windproof absorbs your everyday wear and tear better, I dont like ultralight stuff if I am wearing every day.


----------



## Racing roadkill (3 Jun 2019)

Pair of tracky bottoms, some mits, comfy shoes, job jobbed.


----------



## Pat "5mph" (3 Jun 2019)

Racing roadkill said:


> Pair of tracky bottoms


I strongly disagree 
Once those get wet, the material doubles in weight, clings to you like, erm, clingfilm.
It gets very uncomfortable.


----------



## silva (13 Jun 2019)

Clothes
- a raincoat from sturdy pvc (or goretex but espensive), big cap hanging deep enough, long so it covers pants partly and wide sleeves so you can put long winter gloves under it so water from the sleeves doesn't go right into the gloves.
- goretex (expensive) gloves or thick enough plastic with inner textile, make sure they fit / are big enough, you'll regret the slighest undersize.
- sturdy pvc pants with inner textile (drawback heavy) or flexothane (light but may peel off after a while - requiring repair stickers etc)
- shoe covers - wet shoes ruin your day, I made mine myself with epdm rubber with velcro tape sewed in it.

Bike
- get rid of gearing and freewheel - it eliminates alot problems and allows you to chose longer lasting drivetrain components.
- 2 spare inner tubes - having to repair inner tubes along the road is just crap and unreliable.
- 2 airpumps
- a spare chain, a few spare quicklinks may suffice in case a fat chain. 
- put mud covers wherever you can to protect your drivetrain - it avoids alot maintenance.

Handy things to have avail anytime
- a little bag with ropes/tying material, even an old inner tube is better than nothing in case any tie up need arises along the way.
- a little compass, wherever you go and may loose track of where you are, with no sun and no sight, knowing north south east west is a major help.
- some tools, a small sharp scissors to get glass out of your tire, some keys for your bicycles components.
- a calendar with all the vacation days, there's nothing more crap than riding 20 miles to see a closed fence.


----------



## Mart44 (12 Jul 2019)

I feel lost without a rear view mirror, so I'd say to get one and attach it somewhere. Mine is on the end of the right-side handlebar. Letting you know when it's safe to pull across the road to turn right is one very useful purpose it has. It also gives a general idea of the traffic behind.

The Zefal Dooback 2 Bicycle Handlebar Mirror is a good one.


----------



## Drago (12 Jul 2019)

A new commuter, eh? Well, good luck. Here's my list, for what it's worth.

Essential:

Bike, including lights if riding in the dark, and locks as appropriate. That's all you actually need. 




Desirable:

Almost everything else.




Don't bother:

You'll soon figure out through trial and error what works for you, what is useful for you, or what you in particular can live without. Everyone's perspective, needs and threshold are different, so I wouldn't presume to advise. The classic example is rucksack - I loved mine for commuting, but such things bring other riders out in bouts of chunder at the more thought for no other reason than simple preference. Ultimately you'll only know what suits you when you've tried it.


----------



## SkipdiverJohn (13 Jul 2019)

silva said:


> - get rid of gearing and freewheel - it eliminates alot problems and allows you to chose longer lasting drivetrain components.- a spare chain, a few spare quicklinks may suffice in case a fat chain.
> - put mud covers wherever you can to protect your drivetrain - it avoids alot maintenance..



Or you could ride an old-school 3-speed Roadster with an enclosed chaincase but having the benefit of gears.....


----------



## mjr (15 Jul 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Or you could ride an old-school 3-speed Roadster with an enclosed chaincase but having the benefit of gears.....


I wouldn't go enclosed again because it filled up with autumn silt far too fast for my liking and made spotting chain problems more difficult. The O^^ shaped ones are good enough, although a hockey stick is easier to fit.


----------



## silva (16 Jul 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Or you could ride an old-school 3-speed Roadster with an enclosed chaincase but having the benefit of gears.....


... and the drawbacks of gears.


----------



## Ming the Merciless (16 Jul 2019)

Glasses to keep all manner of objects out of your eyes and also to stop your eyes watering.


----------



## 12boy (18 Jul 2019)

I carry a tool roll with Lezyne pump, park sticky patches, 2 tire irons, 3, 4, 5 and 6 mm Allen wrenches, a cut down 15 mm wrench for the 2 bikes that don't have QRs, a water bottle ( 20 oz steel double wall.) A bit of blue paper shop cloth in case the public toilet is paperless or my hands are greasy is nice. Some of my bikes have bags, some rscks and bags. Neoprene over boots with a cutout for an SPD clip are nice and warm in the winter. If you can score a locker you can bring a weeks work clothes at a time. Lunch and a wee snack before toddling home are good too.


----------



## Ubarrow (20 Jul 2019)

I’d be tempted to add a big battery and a Bosch motor ..........


----------



## SkipdiverJohn (21 Jul 2019)

silva said:


> ... and the drawbacks of gears.



3 speed hub gears don't really have any drawbacks compared to single speeds, other than being a bit more expensive to buy new. They are totally reliable and maintenance comprises of a squirt of oil once in a while. You still get a good chainline and minimal wear & tear.


----------



## carlyboo (24 Jul 2019)

have a commuter travel 11 miles to work everyday and carry lunch, change of clothes and spare cycle shorts/tops in case of rain on the way. Don't like to spend much on cycle gear so generally look for comfortable reasonably priced stuff that you don't mind getting getting abused! I like lusso shorts affordable and last. Obviously spare tubes, pump and levers. One thing i do is put everything in plastic bags stop it from getting soaked if weather is bad nothings 100 percent waterproof.


----------



## silva (27 Jul 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> 3 speed hub gears don't really have any drawbacks compared to single speeds, other than being a bit more expensive to buy new. They are totally reliable and maintenance comprises of a squirt of oil once in a while. You still get a good chainline and minimal wear & tear.


Still a freewheel, still derailer, still cables, still 3/32" chain width limitation.
Been there. Got rid of some reoccurring troubles with it.


----------



## SkipdiverJohn (27 Jul 2019)

silva said:


> Still a freewheel, still derailer, still cables, still 3/32" chain width limitation.
> Been there. Got rid of some reoccurring troubles with it.



Where's the derailleur on a 3-speed roadster? One SA trigger shifter gear cable, one chainring, one rear sprocket, one of my freewheels has lasted 45 years so far, and so in all probability has the chain.
Whilst I do admire the mechanical simplicity and weight-saving potential of a single speed, they don't have a monopoly on mechanical reliability and longevity.


----------



## david k (29 Jul 2019)

Heltor Chasca said:


> Great idea. Where can I buy one and how much do these cost?





Phaeton said:


> I have some for sale at £29.99 + £3.49 next work day delivery, but you must send payment as Gift via Paypoo


I'll take two


----------



## Profpointy (29 Jul 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> 3 speed hub gears don't really have any drawbacks compared to single speeds, other than being a bit more expensive to buy new. They are totally reliable and maintenance comprises of a squirt of oil once in a while. You still get a good chainline and minimal wear & tear.



I would humbly disagree. Back in the olden days I had a couple of 3 speed sturmey archer hubbed bikes, and found the three speeds horrible for jumping out of 3rd gear whilst trying to honk up a hill. I even fell off once as a result, but luckily it was a raleigh shopper so I didn't leave my bollocks on the crossbar. Bearing in mind I was only schoolboy and thought a 3 mile cycle was a long way, it wasn't as if I'd done thousands of miles. Presumably others' experience differs, but I would never get another. On my 2nd one, years later, changing gears failed completely so I had to do the last 20 miles of a hilly ride in top. Admittedly that was a perhaps old 2nd hand bike so may have been worn out. I did know how to adjust them (or thought I did anyway) but seemingly you were on a knife edge of getting it just right.


----------



## mjr (29 Jul 2019)

silva said:


> Still a freewheel, still derailer, still cables, still 3/32" chain width limitation.


Yes, freewheel, yes, one cable, but I've no derailleur and I use 1/8" width chains (and sprockets) so I'm not sure you're thinking of the right thing. You can use 3/32" chain if you want and Shimano seem to specify it as standard on their hub gears but I don't really understand why you would unless you've a few gross of chains to use up or you really really like buying Shimano chains (who I think don't make a 1/8" chain).



Profpointy said:


> I would humbly disagree. Back in the olden days I had a couple of 3 speed sturmey archer hubbed bikes, and found the three speeds horrible for jumping out of 3rd gear whilst trying to honk up a hill. I even fell off once as a result, but luckily it was a raleigh shopper so I didn't leave my bollocks on the crossbar. Bearing in mind I was only schoolboy and thought a 3 mile cycle was a long way, it wasn't as if I'd done thousands of miles. Presumably others' experience differs, but I would never get another. On my 2nd one, years later, changing gears failed completely so I had to do the last 20 miles of a hilly ride in top. Admittedly that was a perhaps old 2nd hand bike so may have been worn out. I did know how to adjust them (or thought I did anyway) but seemingly you were on a knife edge of getting it just right.


If the gears have been run out-of-alignment for long, then it can damage some of the pawls and make shifting unreliable. As to "thought I did": was it put shifter in middle/normal, move the cable adjuster until the shoulder on the shift rod is level with the axle end (viewed through the hole on the right-hand wheel nut or by opening the cover on the cable guard if fitted), then secure the adjuster with its lock nut?

Also, some riders seem to forget the indexing needs checking whenever the wheel is refitted or chain tension reset, and inexperienced mechanics sometimes fit incompatible shift rods (there are at least five available now, marked I to IIIII on the rod IIRC) which basically makes correct indexing an annoying trial-and-error experiment because the rod and axle ends don't line up.

Most 3-speed hubs haven't been mangled or fitted with incompatible parts, so this doesn't happen much. Modern SA 3-speeds have no neutral so you won't suddenly fall forwards, but they do have a clutch which can be damaged by reversing the bike in top gear (so don't do that - always park it in Normal).

I'd heartily recommend a 3-speed for utility bikes and I usually tour on one, plodding it over two small mountains last time, but I wouldn't go so far to say it's an essential beginner's purchase!


----------



## silva (31 Jul 2019)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Where's the derailleur on a 3-speed roadster? One SA trigger shifter gear cable, one chainring, one rear sprocket, one of my freewheels has lasted 45 years so far, and so in all probability has the chain.
> Whilst I do admire the mechanical simplicity and weight-saving potential of a single speed, they don't have a monopoly on mechanical reliability and longevity.


Nowhere, I had forgotten the absence of a derailleur in a 3 speed case. Back in 198x, I had a 3-speed first bike and now that you say it, I remember.
For not wanting freewheel I have 1 reason causing 2 problems, they're not well, or not at all, sealed, water slips in,
1) sudden downpour > sudden freewheeling in forward direction > there you are in middle of nowhere with a bike that is as usable as without chain, needing a hairdryer or so.
2) winter, near evening, starts to freeze again > same story.
You probably already know what happened (freewheel working principle, pallets, springs, sticky fat when wet, springs unable to pull pallets back).

In my 2x7 gears - period things went like this:
- New bike, or a replace all
- A couple weeks riding > unable to switch to gears 7,6.
- 1 month > unable to switch to gear 6,5.
- 2 months > unable to switch to 4.
- 3 months > unable to switch to 3.
- 6 months > 2 and 1 worn
- replace all, when new bike waiting 1 week, then 3 weeks, then 3 months and finally even 6 months, in meantime second bike sitting at end of aboves story too.
- and this story 6 bikes 3 dealers involved, so it's not that I didn't try.
After a decade or so I decided it was enough.
None of those 3 dealers willing to build me a singlespeed (which I coincidently had read about on the www, didn't even know those still existed), reasons being given as no time, no parts and no frame in my size.
I had to find a 4th to get it done.

In my singlespeed period, things went like this:
I had bought 2 bikes but (ofcourse...) that 4th dealer didn't mount a 1/8" drivetrain (I then didn't know those existed and wasn't told either), and my chosen gear of 52/16 quickly ate up the freewheel - sprocket, and above mentioned freewheel problem also became a pest. That 4th dealer told me that I could try a special 'piste' freewheel, that would have a multiplied number of pallets/springs, which would solve the problem. Their price was 4 times the price of the previous, and they didn't solve the problem at all, nothing changed.

And then, I went for fixed gear, and shortly later discovered (thank you internet) the existence of a 1/8" rear cog, and not much later also a 1/8" chainring, and could convince the 4th dealer to convert both bikes.
Never regretted. The only (drivetrain related) problem I had was that the rear pads fret out due to the many losenings for chain tensioning, which was solved by roundels (otherwise the frame-read bike would have been lost).

And with my latest bike, the last problem was solved by a bottom bracket eccenter. Plus a cog mounted with 6 bolts with allen key heads. And very important, it became an option to do things myself, and I did. This latest bike was a shame in its delivery state (see my other posts), but in the end I managed to fix these all myself.

So forgive me my fixed gear enthousiasm, it's just that it allowed me do-it-yourself, independency, freedom.


----------

