# Double or single sided SPD pedals



## Onthedrops (22 Mar 2013)

OK, I've made the decision to go clipless.
Absolutely detest the toe clips supplied with the Triban 3. Obviously I will be investing in SPD shoes but unsure as to whether go for Shimano M520 or single sided pedals which will cater for "down the shop" short rides.

Any good suggestions for single sided examples people? Would appreciate peoples comments on single sided also please.


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## musa (22 Mar 2013)

M520 go all the way not half hearted, however as you said, you may want to go to the shops etc so look at the option that suits your bike and riding, whether it's slippery on the flat side I say with sepculation


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## Onthedrops (22 Mar 2013)

On the other hand, is it possible to ride in trainers with the M520's? Only for very short shop trips.


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## okeydokey79 (22 Mar 2013)

it is possible to ride in trainers on the m520 but not easy, i have done it once when i was taking my bike to the lbs and intended on running back,i did it but found it hard keep my foot on so wont be doin it again


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## deptfordmarmoset (22 Mar 2013)

I've got double and single-sided clips but in practice I never use the platform side because SPD shoes are fine for walking around in. If you might need to use ''proper'' shoes, it will be different, of course. In either case, it's not a big issue because if you're wearing SPDs and inadvertently put your foot on the platform side, lifting your foot for one revolution invariably turns the pedal clip-in side up. On the other hand, or foot to be more accurate, once you're used to using clipless pedals, you will find you become so used to lifting - or at least taking the weight - off the pedal that it'll probably take a few blocks down the road to get back used to using normal shoes.


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## Kies (22 Mar 2013)

Shimano M324 pedals with a full cage

Spd one side,normal flat pedal the other. 

I have them on my hybrid - great for recreational rides,great for going to work in as i don't have the option of changing shoes when get there


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## mark c (23 Mar 2013)

I use the Wellgo wpd-982 and realy like them,they work well with just trainers or spd shoes they cost about £20 from SJS. I bought them to try clipless pedals with a plan to change them to double sided but i find them just so usefull i havent bothered , and have now fitted a second pair to my new bike.


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## screenman (23 Mar 2013)

A proper cyclist will own a designated trip to the shop bike, this should be the only one with commoners pedals on.


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## Kies (23 Mar 2013)

screenman said:


> A proper cyclist will own a designated trip to the shop bike, this should be the only one with commoners pedals on.



I knew i was missing something ;-)


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## Cycleops (23 Mar 2013)

[QUOTE 2374644, member: 259"]It's possible in the same way it's possible to eat spaghetti with knitting needles.[/quote]

Well the Chinese seem to manage noodles with chopsticks.


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## HLaB (23 Mar 2013)

IMO go for something with a cage. FWIW I run A520s on my better bike and m424s on my Fixie; Ive done a few tons on each and plenty of cycling in the urban environment not had a problem. When the m424's broke, I tried the m520s and hated them not as comfortable and my foot didnt always clip in first go which can be a problem in the wet and traffic; thats not a problem when there's a cage so I went back to the m424's.


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## Cycleops (23 Mar 2013)

I was surprised to find out the m520's are marketed as mountain bike pedals. I have some PD-A530's, flat one side which give a choice. I do find cheaper Shimano pedal beaings are not wonderful but improve with lubrication.


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## vickster (23 Mar 2013)

Aren't SPD pedals generally marketed thus to distinguish then from 'road' spd-sl pedals?


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## Cycleops (23 Mar 2013)

SPD seems to be term used only by Shimano which is used for both their road and MTB pedals.


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## HLaB (23 Mar 2013)

Theyve broken it down into spds m (mtb) and spd A (touring) now but it can still be misleading to some


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## citybabe (23 Mar 2013)

I started with M324's and got on really well with them. I've now changed to Shimano 105 pedals which are SPD SL cleats. Not done many miles as yet so I can't say whether I prefer them yet. But I don't think you'll go wrong with M324's as a starter pedal


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## jefmcg (23 Mar 2013)

I've recently started with M324, and think they are perfect beginners pedals. If you fail to clip in, you can still pedal fine, just using the platforms, and if you like to be unclipped approaching lights etc, you can pedal easily with your insteps after unclipping


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## Dave 123 (23 Mar 2013)

From memory I think wiggle have m520's at £17 at the minute.........


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## kerndog (23 Mar 2013)

screenman said:


> A proper cyclist will own a designated trip to the shop bike, this should be the only one with commoners pedals on.


 
Just last night I started plotting to build a single speed for popping to the shops on or any short journeys, already have the pedals and cages ready...

I have the m520's from wiggle, and my spd shoes arrived today, went for a quick blast after setting them up and they feel good. go for it.


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## wakou (23 Mar 2013)

A520 FTW. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28051 I love 'em


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## Deleted member 23692 (23 Mar 2013)

M530's - M520's with a platform. Covers all the bases for me 

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=67249


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## Haz (26 Mar 2013)

Don't make the mistake I made in getting the pedals which were £5 cheaper but can only use one side! It's useful to have a flat side for times where you need to be wearing normal shoes.


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## Haz (26 Mar 2013)

wakou said:


> A520 FTW. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28051 I love 'em


I have these too! Super easy to use, although my friend has the A530s which are flat on the not-cleat side and therefore are better for things like the mad dash to lectures or going to the shops.
Also isn't it possible to get spd mountain bike type shoes which are designed such that you can walk in them normally with the cleat still attached?


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## Onthedrops (29 Mar 2013)

M324's look like they're my kind of pedal. OK, they look a wee bit bulky but I think they may be ideal for clipping in or for short rides without the cleated shoes. Good choice?


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## Kookas (29 Mar 2013)

If MTB SPD shoes are 'walkable', does that not mean I don't need to take a spare pair of shoes to college since I can just wear the SPD shoes all day?


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## Cubist (29 Mar 2013)

Kookas said:


> If MTB SPD shoes are 'walkable', does that not mean I don't need to take a spare pair of shoes to college since I can just wear the SPD shoes all day?


Yes, if you get the trainer type with a reasonably flexible sole. (look at 661 Filter, Specialized Taho, DHB, Northwave etc.) XC racing disco slippers ike Spesh Carbon Experts are too rigid for walking very far off the bike.


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## Kookas (29 Mar 2013)

Cubist said:


> Yes, if you get the trainer type with a reasonably flexible sole. (look at 661 Filter, Specialized Taho, DHB, Northwave etc.) XC racing disco slippers ike Spesh Carbon Experts are too rigid for walking very far off the bike.



What about the cheap ones, like the Shimano M064? They look pretty trainer-ish to me.


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## Cubist (29 Mar 2013)

Kookas said:


> What about the cheap ones, like the Shimano M064? They look pretty trainer-ish to me.


They're more likely to have a rigid sole, and look a bit garish to me. If I was wearing them to college I'd go for a more "skate shoe" style. Those Filters are around for not much more than the Shimanos. 

Tahos?


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## Cubist (29 Mar 2013)

MT 53s


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## Cubist (29 Mar 2013)

AM45?


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## Kookas (29 Mar 2013)

Cubist said:


> They're more likely to have a rigid sole, and look a bit garish to me. If I was wearing them to college I'd go for a more "skate shoe" style. Those Filters are around for not much more than the Shimanos.
> 
> Tahos?



I'm more of a heavy duty person when it comes to my shoes, so I probably wouldn't get something just for a skate appearance; I wore steel-toes before my current walking boots. It stems from when I was younger and all my shoes kept falling apart within months. I'll just stick with the M064s and see how it goes. Hopefully I won't regret the decision too much.


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## Cubist (29 Mar 2013)

Fair do's


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## Phoenix Lincs (29 Mar 2013)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...8_1364542756_65d801c3ef67eecf6261a7eac55ac70b

If I got the above, I'm guessing these

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=167

would fit my shoes

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=35525

Is it easy to do? I'm not very technically gifted!

I'm thinking I need to at least give clipless a go as I aim to up my mileage and try to improve


Reason for edit - I 'replied' to a wrong post! - see, technically challenged


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## Kies (29 Mar 2013)

Onthedrops said:


> M324's look like they're my kind of pedal. OK, they look a wee bit bulky but I think they may be ideal for clipping in or for short rides without the cleated shoes. Good choice?



Very good choice. They are on my goto hybrid. Means i can ride it with any footwear


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## mangid (29 Mar 2013)

I used to use Ultegra SPD which were single side, and a beautiful pedal. I recently changed to SPD A600's on road a daily hack, again single sided, and just as smooth. Never have an issue clicking the pedal hangs so the naturally orient as you put the sole of your foot against them (at least I think that's why it's so easy). 

I find it hard to ride not using SPD, my feet keep coming of the pedals, it's a complete pain.


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## shouldbeinbed (29 Mar 2013)

Kies said:


> Shimano M324 pedals with a full cage
> 
> Spd one side,normal flat pedal the other.
> 
> I have them on my hybrid - great for recreational rides,great for going to work in as i don't have the option of changing shoes when get there


These are excellent pedals I've used for years, even on fast errand/commuter roadies. The platform side grips well and is very comfy in normal shoes.

Another option if it is an image conscious road bike may be proper roadie spd's (520 etc) with the clip on and off platform that shimano do for those trips made without cleated shoes. I have this set up on my roadie and leave the platforms on to give me pedal reflectors for commute riding, again the platforms work well enough with trainers and Adidas samba type shoes.


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## shouldbeinbed (29 Mar 2013)

Another thing, avoid M424's. resin cage on a rocker mechanism round a 520 like inner, in theory gives you spd & platform on both sides. In reality, as platforms they are very uncomfortable in normal shoes as the spd is proud of the cage and you can feel it all the time effectively leaving you with an expensive, bulky & ugly M520.
Nice idea but its not quite worked


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## Cubist (29 Mar 2013)

Phoenix Lincs said:


> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28051&PartnerID=2812&utm_source=Awin&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=generic&_$ja=tsid:41244|cgn:awin|kw:85386&awc=2698_1364542756_65d801c3ef67eecf6261a7eac55ac70b
> 
> If I got the above, I'm guessing these
> 
> ...


The pedals you link to are my favourite entry level commute/tourer pedals. The cleats you link to will come free with the pedals, so you don't need to order any more. I don't think the shoes will be right though, as they aren't cleat compatible.

Browse again, but look to make sure the shoes are SPD compatible

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ladies/cycle/offroad-shoes/


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## Phoenix Lincs (29 Mar 2013)

Cubist said:


> The pedals you link to are my favourite entry level commute/tourer pedals. The cleats you link to will come free with the pedals, so you don't need to order any more. I don't think the shoes will be right though, as they aren't cleat compatible.
> 
> Browse again, but look to make sure the shoes are SPD compatible
> 
> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ladies/cycle/offroad-shoes/



Aren't they? These came in the box with them, and there's a 'remove this bit of sole' part. 

Confused.com


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## Cubist (30 Mar 2013)

Phoenix Lincs said:


> Aren't they? These came in the box with them, and there's a 'remove this bit of sole' part.
> 
> Confused.com


Whoops, I couldn't find reference to SPD in theblurb, and the price was so good I assumed they were just flat soled shoes. I've managed to make myself look a bit foolish then! 

So, to answer your question again, yes, those pedals are great, the shoes ideal and you won't need to order the cleats as they will come with the pedals.


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## Phoenix Lincs (30 Mar 2013)

You don't look foolish. You look really helpful, so thank you. 

I appreciate your help. 

I'm now wondering whether to bite the bullet and order these on the web and risk being able to fit them myself or go to a bike shop (which will presumably cost more but I might get some help)

Thank you


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## Cubist (30 Mar 2013)

Bite the bullet..... but you'll need to bear a couple of things in mind, and have the right tools. The tools will cost what it would cost to have the job done at your LBS, unless you are an experienced eyelash flutterer, or take baked goods along as a bribe........ and you only need to buy the tools once!

Firstly you need to remove the old pedals. They'll either have spanner flats or allen key slots, or both. The spanner flats will be 15mm, so you need the right spanner, and a specific pedal spanner is better because of its shape, but not compulsory. The allen key slots will be on the inside of the pedal axle and will either be 6mm or 8mm.

The pedals are threaded differently on either side. On the drive side (right hand side) it's normal threading, so you need to turn the spanner anti-clockwise to remove it. Easiest way to remember is to set the crank arm so it's facing forwards at 3 O'clock. Put the pedal spanner on at 12 O'Clock and push towards the back of the bike to undo it. Put the chain on the biggest chainring and cover it with a rag before you try to undo the pedal, as this reduces the chances of spanner rash as the spanner slips and sends your knuckles towards the teeth of the chainring! It's likely to be stiff to remove, so be prepared to us quite a bit of leverage.

On the left, or non-drive side the thread is reversed, so you need to turn it clockwise to undo it. Again, put the crank horizontal with the pedal towards the front wheel, the spanner vertical and push towards the back wheel to undo it.

To put the new pedals on make sure you know which is left and which is right. It'll be marked on the pedals, but with your A520s it should be obvious. (the squarer end is at the back with the mechanism facing upwards. ) but to be certain look at the spanner flats where you'll see an L or an R . Clean the internal threads on the crank arm with a squirt of GT85 or similar, and apply a layer of grease or coppaslip to the pedal threads. Start on the right and start off the thread by hand. Do this reasonably carefully, as it's easy to cross-thread them. If it doesn't feel right stop and start again. You should be turning the thread towards the front of the bike. Snug it up by hand then use the spanner or allen key to tighten it properly. It needs to be quite firm.

repeat on the non-drive side, again, thread by hand turning towards the front wheel.

Hope this helps.


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## Phoenix Lincs (30 Mar 2013)

AMAZING help. Thank you so much. I'll copy this and print it out then check what I have in the garage before hitting the shops once I've pressed the 'checkout' option on my purchase 

Half excited, half scared!!!!!!

Thanks for being a star. I may be back for more explanation though so watch this space. 

Once I get to my laptop I'll send you a gold star or a medal! In the meantime, have a big smile :-D


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## Phoenix Lincs (30 Mar 2013)

Only just gone and ordered them! Hurry up postie!


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## Phoenix Lincs (30 Mar 2013)

Cubist said:


> Bite the bullet..... but you'll need to bear a couple of things in mind, and have the right tools. The tools will cost what it would cost to have the job done at your LBS, unless you are an experienced eyelash flutterer, or take baked goods along as a bribe........ and you only need to buy the tools once!
> 
> Firstly you need to remove the old pedals. They'll either have spanner flats or allen key slots, or both. The spanner flats will be 15mm, so you need the right spanner, and a specific pedal spanner is better because of its shape, but not compulsory. The allen key slots will be on the inside of the pedal axle and will either be 6mm or 8mm.
> 
> ...


 Can't find a star - hope this will do, Cubist. Cheers, I owe you a ... 
Lesley


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## Phoenix Lincs (7 Apr 2013)

Hey Cubist

They've arrived! With the help of your advice we fitted them last night and I went round the estate for a bit practising. All seemed ok, apart from getting very stuck when I got home, but at least it was just one foot and I had my other on the ground. Going to go for a spin this morning to see how I get on. I may have some adjustments to do, depending how my cleats are positioned in relation to my knees and feet. Another thread had this link, so I've bookmarked it in case. 

http://www.bikeradar.com/fitness/article/take-care-of-your-knees-part-2-17445/

Glad to see the sun is still out

Have a great Sunday everybody


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## Cubist (7 Apr 2013)

Phoenix Lincs said:


> Hey Cubist
> 
> They've arrived! With the help of your advice we fitted them last night and I went round the estate for a bit practising. All seemed ok, apart from getting very stuck when I got home, but at least it was just one foot and I had my other on the ground. Going to go for a spin this morning to see how I get on. I may have some adjustments to do, depending how my cleats are positioned in relation to my knees and feet. Another thread had this link, so I've bookmarked it in case.
> 
> ...


Nice, glad to hear the advice works!


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## Phoenix Lincs (13 Apr 2013)

Had my first clipless moment today when I couldn't get either foot out and I hit the deck. I've youtube'd this evening and have loosened the springs on the pedals and had a go in the house. It seems much easier. Watch this space


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