# Ready to start!



## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

I’ve bought my bike (hybrid) and added various lights, mud guards, bells and whistles
I’ve bought my clothing (jacket, gloves, leggings, base layer)
I have my helmet

Now all is left is to get going.

I’ve not ridden a bike “properly” since I was 17. I’m now 31, over weight and unfit.
My aim is to be able to cycle 100 miles at a charity event in June to raise money for Alzheimer’s UK. Bit ambitious? Probably.
Just don’t know the best way to get started. 
Obviously I need to just take the plunge and go for it and see what happens. I’m kinda scared though. What if I fall off? What if I’m more unfit than I thought?
Any advice would be appreciated. How would you advise someone with low confidence, low self esteem and low fitness levels to quite literally get back in the saddle? 
Whats a good starting mileage and how often should I do it?

TIA!

L.R


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## roadrash (20 Jan 2020)

It really is as simple as suck it and see, you may well find its harder than you thought , at first, just remember on your first ride don't ride until your knackered because then you will have to turn round and get home so stay close to home.
Little and often I think is the key, the distance will soon build up, you may find your backside objects to the punishment but it does get easier, honest, you may decide to try padded cycling shorts/longs.
The main thing to remember is to enjoy it , and let us know how you get on.


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## Fab Foodie (20 Jan 2020)

Well done!
Start slowly, gentle routes at an easy pace. You’re not 17 now! But, the good news is that bike-fitness build fairly quickly. Always take the first and last 10 mins really easily, get out regularly (but not every day at first) and leave your cycle computer at home, forget time and distance, just enjoy the ride.
100 miles in June should be no big deal if you build up gradually. Don’t obsess about *ENERGY bars, drinks, gels etc, plain water is fine up to 40 miles.
But most of all enjoy cycling in your own way.

*Edit - thanks to @Dogtrousers


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## vickster (20 Jan 2020)

Maybe you could find a group ride or two to join. British Cycling offer some (if you're a woman, Breeze might be worth a look). Or do you have any friends who cycle?

At this time of year, be very careful if it's frosty / icy - roads and paths. If you fall off and are not injured / the bike isn't damaged, just get back on and keep going 

It doesn't matter if you're unfit, just do as much as you can and build up slowly 
Add some brisk walks into your routine, will help with fitness and weight bearing exercise is also important. If overweight, you might need to assess what you eat, just cycling probably won't lead to much weight loss without other lifestyle changes.

If you're stiff after riding, have a hot bath or shower to ease achy muscles. Be prepared for your backside to be sore until you get used to riding (even if you have padded shorts, if you do it's better to not wear underwear with them)


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## BigMeatball (20 Jan 2020)

Also, try and go to one of those basic bike maintenance courses that teach you how to deal with the most common technical issues you might encounter on the road.

Most local bicycle shops organise them regularly. 

There's nothing worse than being away from home with a puncture you don't know how to fix.


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## Racing roadkill (20 Jan 2020)

Just start with a few little rides ( around a local park or something) to start. No more than 5 or 10 miles in total. Get used to riding, and develop the natural toughening of any soft bits, and start to get the cycling specific muscles working and conditioning. Get used to working the gears, and starting and stopping. Repeat these types of rides until everything starts to feel a bit more normal / natural. As soon as you’re comfy and a bit confident, slowly increase your mileages, and vary your routes. If you work in a stop at a cafe or the like, it makes it a bit easier. To cut a long story short, ride about, don’t worry about ‘fitness’ and distance just yet. Enjoy. If you can learn and practice how to fix punctures, that would definitely be a bonus too.
You might want to check out something like this as well
https://www.letsride.co.uk/
Search for ‘easygoing’ routes, in your locale and then sign up on a few. You’ll be with likeminded individuals, and have British Cycling trained leaders to help you along.


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## mjr (20 Jan 2020)

I'm a fan of saying start off riding to and round a park or similar and back for each trip until that feels easy, then 3-5 miles (maybe to shops and back?) repeatedly until that feels easy, then 10km (there are a few parkrides or pedal-and-chat or similar names around this length) then 10 miles, then 20km, 15mi, 30km, 40km/25mi, 50km, 40mi, 50mi, 100km, 75mi and then you'd be able to tackle 100mi with sufficient time.

What happens if you fall off? You hit the ground. Best avoided but not always possible. What do other readers think of practising both going to a park, riding on grass and deliberately jumping off a few times? And about practising "emergency turns" which I've used a few times to avoid idiot motorists?


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## I like Skol (20 Jan 2020)

Hi LibraRider 

Be wary of people suggesting 'only' 5-10 miles for your early rides! 5 miles is a huge distance for someone new (or returning after such a long break) and you should be happy if initially you can go out and ride for a couple of miles and return with a smile on your face. You are starting at the hardest time of year due to the weather, temperatures and short days, but if you can get out there and try riding a few times a week in these conditions you will be well set up for when things start improving in the spring and increasing the distances then will be much more appealing.

I have given this advice a few times before so I hope you don't mind if I just cut and paste it here again?


I like Skol said:


> Really just ride more. I have said this over and over again since joining the forum, ride more, ride to work, ride to your friends house, ride to the newsagent, the pub, the cash machine, to the park, in fact just ride any short routine trips that would normally be a car or public transport journey and also try some longer ones too, they might be easier and more satisfying than you expect. Cycling can be incorporated into a daily routine easier than you might imagine.
> Your fitness will follow your increasing activity. It isn't rocket science but it can be fun, rewarding and very satisfying.


L.R, just get out there and ride. Get a lock so you can secure it at any stops and try to get used to being on the bike so it becomes a natural thing to do.
Do you drive? This is probably a big help if you do because you should already have a reasonable grasp of the rules of the road. Cycling on the road is essentially the same set of rules regards priority and giving way etc, just be aware that motorists don't always expect you or treat you by these rules!

Where abouts in the country are you? There may be a forum member that can help you on your first few rides just while you iron out any initial problems and gain some confidence.

What is the event you are doing? 100 miles sounds like an impossible distance to 99% of the population but actually, once you get to riding about 50 miles, the stretch to 100 isn't that great and on the day, with all the excitement, crowds, company and conversations with people you meet you will find that the 100 miles is likely to just fly by. Good luck and keep us all posted on your progress


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## welsh dragon (20 Jan 2020)

I hadn't been on a bike for 45 years when I decided to have a go. Go slow, even of you only manage to ride for 5 or 10 minutes be satisfied with that. Do that for a few days then try to do a bit longer. Don't rush, don't overdo it. Listen to your body. If it says enough then stop.

Start a new diet as well. Just cut down on the amount you eat. The 2 combined will start to give you results.

And most of all, enjoy yourself. If you don't you won't want to go out on your bike. Good luck. And well done for having a go.


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## rivers (20 Jan 2020)

As others have said, take it slow. Start with an easy route (park, canal tow path, etc), and increase the distance from there. Once you begin to encounter hills, don't be intimidated by them. Pick a landmark on the hill, and try to make it there. Don't beat yourself up if you can't. Keep that point in your mind, and work towards riding to it. Once you get there, pick another point further up that same hill and try to get there. Keep going with that until you can make it to the top.
Find cycling friends, it helps the miles tick by. Once you are comfortable on your bike, and start commuting to work (or part way if you live quite far from work).
But most of all, have fun.


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## Dogtrousers (20 Jan 2020)

Nothing much to add to the sage advice above. If you can get some rides out in the winter then spring will be a doddle. But do beware if the conditions may be icy. Ice and bikes don't go well together.

Good luck and keep us posted.


Fab Foodie said:


> Don’t obsess about wnery bars


I used to have a wnery bar obsession. It did me no good at all.


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## snorri (20 Jan 2020)

Start with short trips, measure these trips in minutes rather than miles, maybe 20-30 minutes. Make sure you return to base before you start to feel sore, that way you will look forward to getting out on your next short trip, which may be a little longer than the previous short trip.
Enjoy your cycling.


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## tom73 (20 Jan 2020)

Slow and steady go round the block or up and down the street a few times. Just get use to the bike and being on it. 
Yes some may thing your mad going up and down the same street but who cares at least your going something positive to improve your health.

Miles will come as will fitness and you will be surprised how soon it comes. 
Remember if you need a rest have one it really not important on how long you take to start with. 
If the traffic get's a bit heavy then stop rest up till you feel ok about it. 
Work out when it's quite traffic wise or see what traffic free cycle routes are near you. 

Once you start to feel better about being on your bike. See what routes you can do around you find a few that you can mix and match /cut short or carry on which ever you feel on the day. 

Above all enjoy I was in the same place about 18 mouths ago and now I can't wait for the next ride. 
I can't lie you will have days when you never want to see the bike again but the good times more than make up for it. 
It's not about how you start it all about where you end up.


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## raleighnut (20 Jan 2020)

No more advice to add but well done for giving it a start.


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## figbat (20 Jan 2020)

You pretty much describe me from about 5 years ago. I was overweight, unfit and hadn't ridden for donkeys' years. My first rides were 3-4 miles 3 times a week and pretty much did me in (I must admit to being quite competitive so was always trying to beat my last time). However, over time the distances got further, the speeds increased and the weight dropped (in combination with a calorie-controlled diet). 6 months later I had lost 3 stone (19kg) and was riding 20+ miles for fun. Climbs that I used to dread were now barely noticeable. Climbs that I used to avoid I'd take on with relish.

I'll admit I have never actually done a 100 mile ride, but I have done a few 100km ones, the hardest of which was entirely off-road. When I think about a long ride now I don't worry about fitness, I think more about comfort. I can do long distances on my MTB with no issues but on my road bike I suffer some saddle-related issues that I am still ironing out. Assuming your 100 miler is not very hilly or technical (which charity rides tend not to be) I'd say it is perfectly attainable. Even if there is a killer climb on the route, there's no shame in walking and I guarantee you won't be the only one doing it.

As for the self-esteem, that's a very personal challenge that will be difficult for us to comment on. However I will say that the improvement in my own self-confidence was marked when I'd lost the tummy and got fitter. I never really cared about what other people thought about me but I did care about what I thought of myself. A little bit of fitness, a bit of tone and the notable improvement to my fitness made me much more determined to keep going and gave me a sense of purpose. I was no longer a fat guy on a bike, I was a _cyclist_ and when you're a cyclist you'll be surprised how many other cyclists there are around you that you didn't know about.

For me the main challenge was the discipline to get out there. It is so easy to look at the weather, look at the time, look at the sofa and give up - I'll go tomorrow... missing one ride won't hurt... it's too cold/wet/dry/hot/temperate/hard...… If you get through that and get out there, it may well be a horrible experience riding into a headwind with horizontal rain and no feeling in your face... but OMG it feels good afterwards; not only good to be warm and dry but good that you did it, didn't back down, put in the hard yards and have earned that space on the sofa. Before you know it you'll be feeling twitchy when you _can't_ get out.


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## Gunk (20 Jan 2020)

My advice would be get a decent bike carrier for your car so you can take your bike to either an off road trail or quiet rural roads so you can start riding away from traffic, you can then enjoy the experience and build up your confidence. Top tip about taking a lock, also make sure you take a rucksack so you can strip off or add layers if you’re too hot or too cold and plenty of water, you need to be hydrated.


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## vickster (20 Jan 2020)

Gunk said:


> My advice would be get a decent bike carrier for your car so you can take your bike to either an off road trail or quiet rural roads so you can start riding away from traffic, you can then enjoy the experience and build up your confidence. Top tip about taking a lock, also make sure you take a rucksack so you can strip off or add layers if you’re too hot or too cold and plenty of water, you need to be hydrated.


You assume they have a car


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

roadrash said:


> you may find your backside objects to the punishment but it does get easier, honest, you may decide to try padded cycling shorts/longs.



Haha! I have thought of this already! Got myself a padded saddle cover AND some padded leggings! 

Don't wanna be cruising for a bruising - so to speak. 

Thanks for the response


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Be wary of people suggesting 'only' 5-10 miles for your early rides! 5 miles is a huge distance for someone new (or returning after such a long break) and you should be happy if initially you can go out and ride for a couple of miles and return with a smile on your face.



Yeah I thought that. I rode to the bottom of my street and back the other day - just to test the height of the saddle was comfortable for me. Was only about 500-1000m at most - down hill, then up hill to get back. I was cream crackered! 

Im hoping this is just because the tyre was a bit flat and I was shaking like bambi on ice - rather than the alternative of being more lacking in fitness that I originally thought! 



I like Skol said:


> Do you drive? This is probably a big help if you do because you should already have a reasonable grasp of the rules of the road. Cycling on the road is essentially the same set of rules regards priority and giving way etc, just be aware that motorists don't always expect you or treat you by these rules!



I do drive, so I guess that helps. I do need to brush up on my road safety though. 
I have already thought about the highway code lessons we had in school. Cycling around the playground - pretending we were on the road. 
Do you have any pointers/resources with regards to this that you could direct me to?



I like Skol said:


> Where abouts in the country are you? There may be a forum member that can help you on your first few rides just while you iron out any initial problems and gain some confidence.



Ah i never thought of that! Great idea! 

I live in south west Birmingham, if anyone would like to help me out 



I like Skol said:


> What is the event you are doing? 100 miles sounds like an impossible distance to 99% of the population but actually, once you get to riding about 50 miles, the stretch to 100 isn't that great and on the day, with all the excitement, crowds, company and conversations with people you meet you will find that the 100 miles is likely to just fly by.



I'm planning on the Birmingham Velo.... 
If not that, then RideLondon in August
Or both - if I can make the Velo and I recover by August haha 

Thanks so much for all your advice. 

I will definitely keep you updated


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

figbat said:


> For me the main challenge was the discipline to get out there. It is so easy to look at the weather, look at the time, look at the sofa and give up - I'll go tomorrow... missing one ride won't hurt... it's too cold/wet/dry/hot/temperate/hard...… If you get through that and get out there, it may well be a horrible experience riding into a headwind with horizontal rain and no feeling in your face... but OMG it feels good afterwards; not only good to be warm and dry but good that you did it, didn't back down, put in the hard yards and have earned that space on the sofa. Before you know it you'll be feeling twitchy when you _can't_ get out.



Thanks for your reply! 

I think the hardest part for me is the fear at the moment. 
I guess the fear of failing. 
The fear of realising actually how unfit I am. 
The fear of falling off. 
The fear of looking like a giant luminous elephant on wheels when I put my bright jacket on. 

Wouldn't of thought I once used to compete in national and European competitions in martial arts.... 

Growing up sucks!


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

Thanks so much for all of those who have responded  I appreciate all of your comments and advice.

I think maybe I just need to grow a pair and get on with it. See what happens. Put some music in my ears and see where I end up.

All easier said than done though!
I hope I don’t talk myself out of it...

My Nan and grandad will be so proud of me if I manage to get to 100miles!


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## Gunk (20 Jan 2020)

I did assume that, yes


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## boydj (20 Jan 2020)

Lots of good advice here. One good way of getting started is to use your bike for local errands, from a few hundred yards to a few miles, taking it nice and easy. This could mean you going out two or three times in a day, which will be fine as long as you stay well within yourself. After a few weeks of getting used to being on a bike, then you can think about stretching yourself a bit more and gradually extending the distance once or twice a week.

You'll find it useful to have a good jacket to wear and a way of carrying a small amount of luggage on the bike - like a saddlebag or a rack and rack bag.


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## vickster (20 Jan 2020)

Another option to get saddle time is to start cycling to work if it's practical or appropriate


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

vickster said:


> Another option to get saddle time is to start cycling to work if it's practical or appropriate


Yeah! That is the aim by March. 
I’m starting a new job then which is a little closer to home (just over 2 miles away). So hopefully I’ll be able to do it easy by then!


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## vickster (20 Jan 2020)

That’ll take you 15 minutes, but easy to go the long way home, evenings will be lighter too


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## Milkfloat (20 Jan 2020)

If you are planning on Ride London, then I hope you have your place already. I am not sure if the Velo has sold out, it usually does. You might be able to get a charity place though if you think you can raise a fair bit of money.


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## vickster (20 Jan 2020)

Milkfloat said:


> If you are planning on Ride London, then I hope you have your place already. I am not sure if the Velo has sold out, it usually does. You might be able to get a charity place though if you think you can raise a fair bit of money.


OP says June. Ride London is 15 August this year


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

Milkfloat said:


> If you are planning on Ride London, then I hope you have your place already. I am not sure if the Velo has sold out, it usually does. You might be able to get a charity place though if you think you can raise a fair bit of money.



Oh really?

Hm - Alzheimers UK (who I am planning on cycling for) has charity places for both - would it be worth registering with them now do you think? To secure a place?


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## vickster (20 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Oh really?
> 
> Hm - Alzheimers UK (who I am planning on cycling for) has charity places for both - would it be worth registering with them now do you think? To secure a place?


Yes if you want to ride. Places limited and once the ballot for RLS is drawn next month, charity places will be in higher demand.
There’ll be a fee and a minimum sponsorship to raise


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## rivers (20 Jan 2020)

I wouldn't bother with Ride London. Far too many people for it to be enjoyable. I spent 1/4 of the time walking last year due to bottlenecks. Where abouts are you based? CC members may be able to recommend local sportives that are for more enjoyable, and probably a lot cheaper


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

rivers said:


> I wouldn't bother with Ride London. Far too many people for it to be enjoyable. I spent 1/4 of the time walking last year due to bottlenecks. Where abouts are you based? CC members may be able to recommend local sportives that are for more enjoyable, and probably a lot cheaper



Ah that's a shame.

I live in Birmingham - so the other option is the Vélo - as far as im aware? 

They cycle right past where I live actually. I remember standing in the street last year admiring them all as they went past. 
Going to be such an achievement if I can do it!


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## rivers (20 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ah that's a shame.
> 
> I live in Birmingham - so the other option is the Vélo - as far as im aware?
> 
> ...



Are you specifically looking for closed roads?


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## LibraRider (20 Jan 2020)

rivers said:


> Are you specifically looking for closed roads?



I think so yeah - for now


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## rivers (20 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I think so yeah - for now



Fair enough, just don't want to go recommending open road sportives. If you want a bit of an adventure/don't mind travelling, I think Etape Loch Ness still has some charity places (Macmillan I think) available. It's limited to about 5000 riders, 66 miles in length, mostly rolling with one very long hill. I'm travelling up in April with a bunch of my friends for it. Might be something to aim for, although might also be too soon seeing as it's winter


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## Milkfloat (20 Jan 2020)

The Velo will be a good target for you and as you say nice and local. Having ridden both the Velo and RideLondon multiple times I would say the Velo is more relaxed and less busy. London is more spectacular though.


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## CXRAndy (21 Jan 2020)

Start real easy, 1 mile then 2, so on. In a matter of a few weeks, you will be doing 5-10 miles. If you live near the country side or a nice park, then getting out regularly is easier. Speak to local cycle clubs, alot have beginner ride outs, most clubs are very welcoming to new members, so dont be afraid. We've all been a beginner at some point.

Being 31, that is no age and if the bug bites lots of time to be an excellent very fit rider. 

I didn't start riding until my late 40s, now mid 50s, fitter than I've ever been. I can still out cycle my teenage/twenty something kids


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## nickAKA (21 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> They cycle right past where I live actually. I remember standing in the street last year admiring them all as they went past.
> Going to be such an achievement if I can do it!



You'll murder it - start riding now, get some miles in your legs and rest will follow. You're young, don't fixate on diet or fitness, there's no substitute for being out there and just doing it.
Once you've got some fitness & confidence you can start thinking about the trip itself, but the reality of a charity ride / sportive is there will be plenty of people in the same position as you - there will be loads of refreshment stops along the way so you can always stop & have a breather - nobody is timing you, it's not the tour de france.
That first step (pedal stroke?) is always the most daunting but you CAN do it


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## Racing roadkill (21 Jan 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Hi LibraRider
> 
> Be wary of people suggesting 'only' 5-10 miles for your early rides! 5 miles is a huge distance for someone new (or returning after such a long break)


Really. 5 miles on a bike is really not difficult even for someone who’s only just learned to ride a bike. It’s more about the effort for the route, keep it simple and flat at first.
Any less than that, and getting the bike out of the shed is a bit pointless.


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## roadrash (21 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> Really. 5 miles on a bike is really not difficult even for someone who’s only just learned to ride a bike. It’s more about the effort for the route, keep it simple and flat at first.
> Any less than that, and getting the bike out of the shed is a bit pointless.



I know a few people who couldn't ride a bike 5 miles, as for anything less is pointless, to you maybe but the advice above isn't meant for you , 
A lot of utility rides are less than 5 miles


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## crossfire (21 Jan 2020)

Don`t know what your area is like, but I live in a built up area, so worked out a route that was not too long or difficult and which could easily be extended by making the loop bigger, going up and across roads, until I felt confident enough to go further. I now have a route that goes out into the country, includes a couple of hills and is about 12 miles long and takes about an hour. I also have a looong one that is nearer 25 miles but has a really big hill, not done too often though. Just find a short circular route you are comfy with but can easily extend if feeling good
john


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## icowden (21 Jan 2020)

It's worth looking around you for some sportives with shorter routes. Also try and find some enjoyable car free routes.
There is a site here https://www.birmingham.gov.uk/info/50122/cycling_in_birmingham/1322/where_can_i_cycle/3 which could be useful. has a lot of maps of resurfaced canal towpaths for example.

If you don't mind travelling things like the New Forest spring sportive have short (30 miles), standard (50 miles) and long (80 miles) routes.
Commuting definitely helps as it just gets your legs going daily.


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## LibraRider (21 Jan 2020)

nickAKA said:


> You'll murder it - start riding now, get some miles in your legs and rest will follow. You're young, don't fixate on diet or fitness, there's no substitute for being out there and just doing it.
> Once you've got some fitness & confidence you can start thinking about the trip itself, but the reality of a charity ride / sportive is there will be plenty of people in the same position as you - there will be loads of refreshment stops along the way so you can always stop & have a breather - nobody is timing you, it's not the tour de france.
> That first step (pedal stroke?) is always the most daunting but you CAN do it


Thanks Nick

I really appreciate the positive talk!

I’m going to try and go out this weekend.

I agree, the first ride is probably the most difficult - once it’s done I’ll be happy!


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## icowden (21 Jan 2020)

Equally - be aware that at the moment it's cold, often wet and miserable. It's much easier to go further more often when the weather is sunny, the wind is calm and your face isn't freezing off. One of the good things about commuting if it is your only easy option, is that it makes you go out in all weathers.

If the weather is horrible, don't let that put you off trying again another time.


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## HobbesOnTour (21 Jan 2020)

Some very good advice here.

If it's of any help, I was like you about 6 years ago. I vividly recall my "first" adult bike ride. I managed 6km, in NL, (so flat as a pancake!). I thought I was going to die! 😀. I didn't! 

Everyone is different, but I found concentrating on enjoying myself rather than measuring myself was a significant factor in keeping myself motivated. 

Watching a regular route change through the seasons can be very interesting!

Best of luck!


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## Dogtrousers (21 Jan 2020)

Regarding Ride London, and with all due respect to @rivers who didn't like it, don't just write it off completely on the basis of one negative report. 

True, it's not to everyone's taste, and it does have its downsides but I know people who have done it and said it was a great experience.

I've not done it so I can't comment either way.


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## Oxford Dave (21 Jan 2020)

I rode a bicycle for the first time in about 15 years last Tuesday, when I rode about 2.5 miles. Today I rode 14 miles and could have gone further but I had to be somewhere, so cut it short. I'm 62, not particularly fit, and feel great every time I ride my bike. I'm hoping to be putting in a steady 20 miles a day by the end of this week - my limit will be time rather than stamina, as it seems that after the first mile or so, the rest just come naturally.


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## LibraRider (21 Jan 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> Regarding Ride London, and with all due respect to @rivers who didn't like it, don't just write it off completely on the basis of one negative report.
> 
> True, it's not to everyone's taste, and it does have its downsides but I know people who have done it and said it was a great experience.
> 
> I've not done it so I can't comment either way.



Thats true! 

I am extremely tempted to do both the Velo and RideLondon in all honesty - IF I can. 

Ive always wanted to do a sporting even for charity. Since running is a no go for me (i can't get past the mental block and the pounding is awful on my knees) cycling would be amazing. I figure if i can do one, I can do both. 

Fundraising is another battle though


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## LibraRider (21 Jan 2020)

Oxford Dave said:


> I rode a bicycle for the first time in about 15 years last Tuesday, when I rode about 2.5 miles. Today I rode 14 miles and could have gone further but I had to be somewhere, so cut it short. I'm 62, not particularly fit, and feel great every time I ride my bike. I'm hoping to be putting in a steady 20 mies a day by the end of this week - my limit will be time rather than stamina, as it seems that after the first mile or so, the rest just come naturally.



Thats amazing Dave! 

Good for you! 

What an inspiration! Keep going and ill keep you posted on my progress!


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## LibraRider (21 Jan 2020)

Ive been looking at 100 mile cycle training plans and just cycle training plans for beginners online. 

Id love to get your opinions on these: 

Breast Cancer Now 100m cycle training plan

Cancer Research UK beginners cycle plan

Thanks


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## Racing roadkill (21 Jan 2020)

roadrash said:


> I know a few people who couldn't ride a bike 5 miles, as for anything less is pointless, to you maybe but the advice above isn't meant for you ,
> A lot of utility rides are less than 5 miles


Don’t forget the O.P. is aiming for a 100 mile ride this year, there’s not really time to mess about too much.


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## Racing roadkill (21 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ive been looking at 100 mile cycle training plans and just cycle training plans for beginners online.
> 
> Id love to get your opinions on these:
> 
> ...


The breast cancer one, is the one I’d concentrate your efforts on, if it were me, given I’m a very experienced, trained British Cycling ride leader, who specialises in getting people from newbie to 100 mile challenge rides, in relatively short spaces of time, as it’s more geared to getting you to your mileage goal. The C.R. one is a bit too vague, and not structured enough. Interestingly, the Breast Cancer one, starts at a 5 mile effort, which I’d agree with.
Here are some pics of me leading this sort of challenge training ride, for the charity Scope, a couple of years ago.
































and here’s another group I got up to multiple 100 mile days, from beginners on a charity ride I did from Huddersfield to Southampton last year.






I’ve done lots of this sort of training / training plans over the years, and I’d definitely say the Breast Cancer plan you linked to is the better of the two.
Have a look at the Ride London site for their training plans, and maybe on the British cycling website too. They are all very useful resources.


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## LibraRider (21 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> The breast cancer one, is the one I’d concentrate your efforts on, as it’s more geared to getting you to your mileage goal. The C.R. one is a bit too vague, and not structured enough. Interestingly, the Breast Cancer one, starts at a 5 mile effort, which I’d agree with.


Thanks!

I thought perhaps start with the cancer one initially - while I’m getting used to cycling and building my confidence.
Then progress to the breast cancer one afterwards.
The velo is 21 weeks away. So this would give me a structured training program To build up to it?


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## Racing roadkill (21 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I thought perhaps start with the cancer one initially - while I’m getting used to cycling and building my confidence.
> Then progress to the breast cancer one afterwards.
> The velo is 21 weeks away. So this would give me a structured training program To build up to it?


I’d say that’s a good plan.


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## cyberknight (22 Jan 2020)

Later in the year and if your confident to ride o. Open roads then st Giles runs sportive from Whittington that you could drive to great fun and fairly close to you. Ride to it did the sportive and ride back


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## icowden (22 Jan 2020)

I did my first sportives (london to brighton and New forest ride 100 (60 mile route) last year and found them to be really joyous fun days out. Incredibly supportive for the most part with plenty of room for the super-lycra gang and the "i just want to see if I can finish it" gang (I was in the latter, and for London to Brighton did half of it with my folding tern gaffa taped together as the hinge snapped).


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## Dogtrousers (22 Jan 2020)

icowden said:


> folding tern gaffa taped together as the hinge snapped).




I hope you bought a replacement. After all, one good Tern ...


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## LibraRider (22 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> The breast cancer one, is the one I’d concentrate your efforts on, if it were me, given I’m a very experienced, trained British Cycling ride leader, who specialises in getting people from newbie to 100 mile challenge rides, in relatively short spaces of time, as it’s more geared to getting you to your mileage goal. The C.R. one is a bit too vague, and not structured enough. Interestingly, the Breast Cancer one, starts at a 5 mile effort, which I’d agree with.
> Here are some pics of me leading this sort of challenge training ride, for the charity Scope, a couple of years ago.
> 
> View attachment 501550
> ...




Oh wow - I have just seen your edits to this post! 

I will definitely go have a look at the plans on those sites now. 

Could you recommend any other training plans at all?? 

Thanks so much! 

It looks like you had great fun in the pictures above!


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Oh wow - I have just seen your edits to this post!
> 
> I will definitely go have a look at the plans on those sites now.
> 
> ...



https://ridelondon.s3.eu-west-2.ama.../uploads/cms_page_media/948/Beginner_Plan.pdf

https://www.cyclinguk.org/article/cycling-guide/training-plan-for-sportives-and-charity-cycle-rides
These two are good for starters.


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## Gunk (22 Jan 2020)

You don’t need to do the plans to the letter, the basic principle is little and often building up the distance gradually, a more stretching ride once a week and a couple of rest days.


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

Gunk said:


> You don’t need to do the plans to the letter, the basic principle is little and often building up the distance gradually, a more stretching ride once a week and a couple of rest days.


True, but it’s easier to get to the goal, if you do follow the plans verbatim, as you don’t lose focus that way. It’s easier to follow a route, if there’s a clearly defined path.


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## MichaelW2 (22 Jan 2020)

To start off, ride by time not distance. Start with rides of 10-15 mins and extend daily but not on big jumps. Find some local routes that are cycle friendly. It is always good to head out into the wind so the return is easier.
Don't push too hard, you just need to get acclimatised to being on a bike safely. Pedal easily in a lowish gear and don't concern yourself with speed. Practice emergency braking with care.
Pay attention to your roadcraft, positioning, observation of vehicles, pedestrians, other cyclists, dogs and potholes.
There is a top 10 of cycle dangers. If you can take care of these, nos 11-101 are very seldom found


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## vickster (22 Jan 2020)

MichaelW2 said:


> There is a top 10 of cycle dangers.


Tipper trucks
Skip lorries
Bin lorries
Other lorries (especially big ones)
White vans (these may also be black/grey/silver/blue with or without livery, a range of sizes)
Audis / BMWs / Mercedes (SUVs/ saloons/ hatchbacks)
Old folk in hatchbacks
Boy/girl racers
Dogs in parks and shared paths (and small children off the lead)
Smombies (mainly but not exclusively in cities)...



To the OP< perhaps get a copy of Cyclecraft by John Franklin or similar to learn essential stuff around roadcraft (there's an updated version I think)


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## Pat "5mph" (22 Jan 2020)

@LibraRider welcome to CC!



Racing roadkill said:


> Any less than that [5 miles], and getting the bike out of the shed is a bit pointless.


Incorrect imo.
Even a 2 mile journey is worth cycling, remember you have to come back too!
For many beginners a first ride of just a few miles will get one used to how the bike handles, to your level of fitness, to the hardness of the saddle.
The advice given by @I like Skol is spot on.


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

Pat "5mph" said:


> @LibraRider welcome to CC!
> 
> 
> Incorrect imo.
> ...


If you’re talking about generally getting cycling, with no particular specific aim, that’s fine, but as I’ve pointed out, the OP has a 100 miler to aim for, so is on a ( relative ) time budget, so has to get cracking without too much fannying about.


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

MichaelW2 said:


> To start off, ride by time not distance.


I’d advise against this, it’s not helpful to just bimble about with only a time in mind, aim for a distance, then try to get the time taken to cover that distance down, it gives a bit focus to what you’re doing, and will actually give a more measurable improvement, as you progress.


MichaelW2 said:


> Start with rides of 10-15 mins and extend daily but not on big jumps. Find some local routes that are cycle friendly. It is always good to head out into the wind so the return is easier.



Again, I’d advise repeating a fixed mileage ride, not a fixed time ride, but aim to reduce the time taken to complete it. Also wind conditions often change, so there really is no guarantee that a headwind our will be a tailwind home, or any wind home. It might even change to a crosswind, you just don’t know. Don’t worry about wind conditions, unless it really is blowing a hooley.


MichaelW2 said:


> Don't push too hard.


Don’t push too hard too early, I’d agree with that.


MichaelW2 said:


> you just need to get acclimatised to being on a bike safely. Pedal easily in a lowish gear and don't concern yourself with speed.


Don’t be overly concerned with speed, but try not to relax so much that you’re not progressing, so keep half an eye on where you’re speed is at.


MichaelW2 said:


> Practice emergency braking with care.
> Pay attention to your roadcraft, positioning, observation of vehicles, pedestrians, other cyclists, dogs and potholes.


Good advice.


MichaelW2 said:


> There is a top 10 of cycle dangers.


They are risks, not dangers. Risks only become dangers if you fail to identify and mitigate them.


MichaelW2 said:


> If you can take care of these, nos 11-101 are very seldom found


It’s often a “seldomly found” risk that bites you in the backside, because you failed to recognise it, and mitigate it.
Try and enjoy it as much as possible, if you don’t enjoy it, it makes life a lot harder than it needs to be. If you follow one of the many training plans available out there, which have been formulated by proper professional coaches, and try to take anything suggested by ( well meaning, but often misguided) Internet forum types with a pinch of salt, it should make the event feel like a more enjoyable experience. Remember that the nutrition side of the plans should be taken into account as much as the physical training side as well.


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## roadrash (22 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> and try to take anything suggested by ( well meaning, but often misguided) Internet forum types with a pinch of salt,




says he who has just posted this on an internet forum,


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## Reynard (22 Jan 2020)

Oh man, the first time I got back on a bike after a hiatus of about 20 years, I rode 3 miles and I was totally kaput. How on earth I managed to get home, I still don't quite know - things got a bit hazy...  Plenty of good advice here already, but I'll add my two pennyworth as well:

We all had to start somewhere. No need to be embarrassed.

Little and often is the key at the beginning. And don't diss utility rides, no matter how short. You have a hybrid, so buy a rack, some panniers plus a decent lock and get into the habit of using the bike for trips to the shops. Sometimes it's quicker to take the bike, especially if you have to waste time looking for a parking space. The beauty of doing stuff by bike is there's invariably something you can lock your bike to near where you have to be.

Don't push yourself too far too fast and allow time for recovery between rides. Plus things like walking helps with general fitness as well.

A good set of maps is always a worthwhile investment e.g. OS Landranger (1:50,000) and OS Explorer (1:25,000). Helps you plan rides, especially once you start going a bit further from home. A good, fun thing to do is hop on a train with the bike, ride a stop or two (or more!) and then cycle home. 

Do make sure your saddle is in the right position (height, fore / aft, tilt). Get that wrong, and you'll soon know about it - there are plenty of "how to" guides to this floating around online. If your bum still hurts, then there are options. But right now, any ouch moments are most likely to be your body simply getting used to cycling.

At this time of year, do make sure you're dressed warmly enough. There is nothing more miserable than cycling when you are chilled through. It's far easier to be able to take a layer off than to wish you'd brought an extra one along in the first place.

Everyone falls off at some point. Just try not to do it in front of an audience with a backpack full of tomatoes... 

But most of all, enjoy your new bike, and happy cycling.


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

roadrash said:


> says he who has just posted this on an internet forum,


And was a professional coach.


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

Reynard said:


> Oh man, the first time I got back on a bike after a hiatus of about 20 years, I rode 3 miles and I was totally kaput. How on earth I managed to get home, I still don't quite know - things got a bit hazy...  Plenty of good advice here already, but I'll add my two pennyworth as well:
> 
> We all had to start somewhere. No need to be embarrassed.
> 
> ...


Quite right.


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## Racing roadkill (22 Jan 2020)

Strictly speaking, the ultimate aim is to gauge, and increase your Power, and efficiency. However these are slightly alien / confusing concepts to someone just getting going / restarting after years away from riding, so judging performance and improvements by how your speeds over distance / terrain are improving, gives you something more relatable to work with, which are still usefully comparable to power increases. A lot of the more advanced training plans use Heart rate measurements, and / or ( preferably ) direct power measurements. That’s the nitty gritty of it. It’s really not important to train with these metrics aforethought, to start with though. They will be what is actually improving, but unless you really are interested, readings from HRMs and power meters aren’t anything to get too excited about initially.


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## boydj (22 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> Strictly speaking, the ultimate aim is to gauge, and increase your Power, and efficiency. However these are slightly alien / confusing concepts to someone just getting going / restarting after years away from riding, so judging performance and improvements by how your speeds over distance / terrain are improving, gives you something more relatable to work with, which are still usefully comparable to power increases. A lot of the more advanced training plans use Heart rate measurements, and / or ( preferably ) direct power measurements. That’s the nitty gritty of it. It’s really not important to train with these metrics aforethought, to start with though. They will be what is actually improving, but unless you really are interested, readings from HRMs and power meters aren’t anything to get too excited about initially.



But first you've got to build up to being able to stay on the bike for increasing lengths of time. Asking someone who is unfit to start chasing times before they've got through the initial toughening-up is setting them up to tire themselves out and struggle with motivation. Once you've achieved bit of fitness and experience to know what you're capable of and where your limits are, then you can start stretching yourself. As @Reynard says above, recovery time is important too.


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## roadrash (22 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> And was a professional coach.



an ex professional coach who tells someone ,who hasn't been on a bike for 14 years and by their own admission is overweight and unfit , that anything less than 5 miles is a waste of time. 
have a look at the numerous posts from members of this forum that have admitted when they took up/returned to cycling couldnt manage anything like 5 miles.
anyhow this isnt helping the op so my last post on the matter.


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## LibraRider (22 Jan 2020)

I really appreciate everyone’s advice and am taking everything into account.
For me - any distance/time for my initial cycle is a bonus at this point. I’m very apprehensive about getting on a bike and felt like bambi on ice when I had a little cycle the other day.
I can walk 2 miles quite easily haha.
I think for my first ride, I’m going to cycle to what feels comfortable and have fun. Get used to being on two wheels and get used to the fancy gears on this bike. I’ve never used a bike with 2 clickers on each handle to go through the gears. And also - not fall off!
After that - I’ll start training seriously and take it from there.
ive already cut back on calories to create a deficit for weight loss and am drinking plenty of water to hydrate myself. I’ve also upped my protein for muscle mass and to get those much needed gains! If anyone can offer any more advice with regards to nutrition I’d be very greatful!
Finally, I have committed to the velo now. Signed up and registered to take part to raise money for the Alzheimer’s Society last night. So, that’s that!
Never done anything close to this before so the challenge itself is daunting! But game on!

ive always been a high achiever!
God bless my hips, thighs and knees!


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## Reynard (22 Jan 2020)

boydj said:


> But first you've got to build up to being able to stay on the bike for increasing lengths of time. Asking someone who is unfit to start chasing times before they've got through the initial toughening-up is setting them up to tire themselves out and struggle with motivation. Once you've achieved bit of fitness and experience to know what you're capable of and where your limits are, then you can start stretching yourself. As @Reynard says above, recovery time is important too.



Yeah...

One of the most important lessons I learnt was to ride well within myself, at a comfortable pace. When I figured that out, cycling was a hell of a lot more fun, and I found that I could go out for longer and ride further without really thinking about it too much.

Although what constitutes a comfortable pace is different for everyone, and is something that comes with time in the saddle. Me, I sort of poddle along at about 9 or 10 mph and I'm a happy camper.


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## vickster (22 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I really appreciate everyone’s advice and am taking everything into account.
> For me - any distance/time for my initial cycle is a bonus at this point. I’m very apprehensive about getting on a bike and felt like bambi on ice when I had a little cycle the other day.
> I can walk 2 miles quite easily haha.
> I think for my first ride, I’m going to cycle to what feels comfortable and have fun. Get used to being on two wheels and get used to the fancy gears on this bike. I’ve never used a bike with 2 clickers on each handle to go through the gears. And also - not fall off!
> ...


Make sure your saddle height and position is ok and your knees, hips and thighs will thank you 

good luck


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## Reynard (22 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I really appreciate everyone’s advice and am taking everything into account.
> For me - any distance/time for my initial cycle is a bonus at this point. I’m very apprehensive about getting on a bike and felt like bambi on ice when I had a little cycle the other day.
> I can walk 2 miles quite easily haha.
> I think for my first ride, I’m going to cycle to what feels comfortable and have fun. Get used to being on two wheels and get used to the fancy gears on this bike. I’ve never used a bike with 2 clickers on each handle to go through the gears. And also - not fall off!
> ...



Just eat sensibly. Fads are just that, fads, and don't cut back *too* much on the calories as you don't want to be "riding on empty".

Porridge is a good breakfast if you ride out in the morning though, as it keeps you going for ages. Likewise, things like jacket spuds and beans, avocado on toast or even the good old pork pie. Swap white bread, pasta & rice for wholegrain. Bulgur wheat is wholegrain too.

Once you start going out on the bike for longer, pack a banana and some haribo. Flapjacks are good, so are salty things like mini cheddars. Everyone is different as to how long they can ride before they need to take fuel on board - If I'm going to be riding 20 miles or more, then I've always got something stashed in my bar bag.


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## HobbesOnTour (22 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I’m going to cycle ...... and have fun.



If you do this everything else will fall into place easier.

If I have it right you've got your bike, your clothing and now your goal. Give your mind a rest for a while and just enjoy your cycling. 

Concentrate on finding nice places to cycle to, maybe nice people to cycle with. Discover the wonderful things cycling can deliver to you.
Personally, I wouldn't be worried about special nutrition. Just eat as healthy as you can.
At the end of the day I'd rather be enjoying my cycling with a spare tyre than being lean & fit with a smile nowhere to be seen.
If you can do both, more power to you! 

Practical tip: https://cycle.travel/ is great for planning rides on quiet roads.

Best of luck.


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## Racing roadkill (23 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I really appreciate everyone’s advice and am taking everything into account.
> For me - any distance/time for my initial cycle is a bonus at this point. I’m very apprehensive about getting on a bike and felt like bambi on ice when I had a little cycle the other day.
> I can walk 2 miles quite easily haha.
> I think for my first ride, I’m going to cycle to what feels comfortable and have fun. Get used to being on two wheels and get used to the fancy gears on this bike. I’ve never used a bike with 2 clickers on each handle to go through the gears. And also - not fall off!
> ...


Good on you  it sounds like you’re doing the right things, good luck with it. The most important thing is that you are enjoying it.


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## Racing roadkill (23 Jan 2020)

roadrash said:


> an ex professional coach who tells someone ,who hasn't been on a bike for 14 years and by their own admission is overweight and unfit , that anything less than 5 miles is a waste of time.
> have a look at the numerous posts from members of this forum that have admitted when they took up/returned to cycling couldnt manage anything like 5 miles.
> anyhow this isnt helping the op so my last post on the matter.


Yes, but we are dealing with someone who has a goal to achieve, and a finite amount of time to do it, that’s a _really _key difference here. It’s not just someone who has restarted riding, with no particular plan of attack / specific goal in mind.


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## CXRAndy (23 Jan 2020)

HobbesOnTour said:


> Practical tip: https://cycle.travel/ is great for planning rides on quiet roads.



Once you can cycle upto 10-20miles. Id used to like to search for a nice cafe/pub and plot a route how to get there choosing quiet roads. 

Cycle.travel. is a good choice. So is Strava route plotter(it uses most common routes riders choose). Also Google maps cycle mode works very well, quickly showing the elevation, so no surprises.


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## mjr (23 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Get used to being on two wheels and get used to the fancy gears on this bike. I’ve never used a bike with 2 clickers on each handle to go through the gears.


Don't worry if not. I've been riding 40 years and still sound like I'm playing the flipping castanets when I get on a bike like that. Which lever goes which way to tighten again? And which gear was I in to start with? Oh not that one. Oops. 

My most ridden bikes have one lever by the right brake. The fast one has two levers either side of the down tube. I don't see much attraction in wobbly brake levers for non-racers... but if you've got 'em, learn 'em for now, at least well enough for this ride. Not enough time for an exploration of radically different bike controls as well as getting fit!


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## mjr (23 Jan 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> Once you can cycle upto 10-20miles. Id used to like to search for a nice cafe/pub and plot a route how to get there choosing quiet roads.
> 
> Cycle.travel. is a good choice. So is Strava route plotter(it uses most common routes riders choose). Also Google maps cycle mode works very well, quickly showing the elevation, so no surprises.


Nice people don't tell beginners to follow Google's cycle directions. They are truly awful in many places. Cycle.travel will show elevation quickly enough and really not send you up busy dual carriageways for no reason.


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## icowden (23 Jan 2020)

Don't know if this helps, but regarding the list of scary things earlier in the post, I have a couple of very simple techniques for dealing with the vehicular ones that seems to work well. For large vehicles It's the philosophy of "chillax and let the big scary thing go first / finish reversing". The other is to take control where there isn't safe room for someone to pass you. This involves cycling in "prime" or the middle of your side of the carriageway rather than trying to be humble and cycle in the gutter.

Round here the most dangerous obstacle in day to day cycling is potholius nonfixus, especially after rain. Oh and metal drain covers they can be surprisingly slippy.


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## CXRAndy (23 Jan 2020)

mjr said:


> Nice people don't tell beginners to follow Google's cycle directions. They are truly awful in many places. Cycle.travel will show elevation quickly enough and really not send you up busy dual carriageways for no reason.



I use all three of the above, Google is a quick way of assessing distance, elevation and rest, food stop facilities.

You don't have to use it if the route looks unsuitable. You can pull the route like the others to give better guidance.


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## icowden (23 Jan 2020)

You can also streetview your route in advance which is nice.


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## Reynard (23 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I’ve never used a bike with 2 clickers on each handle to go through the gears.



Ah, trigger shifters. Really instinctive once you get the hang of them.  Have them on my hybrid.

The way I remember how to use them is this way:

Right hand is for back gears i.e. cassette.

Left hand is for front gears i.e. chainrings

Push with your thumb to select a bigger cog, pull with your index finger to select a smaller one.

But what you have to remember is that with your right hand shift, selecting a bigger cog gives you a lower gear (easier to ride or you go slower) and with the left hand shift, selecting a bigger chainring gives you a higher gear (harder to ride or you go faster). Sounds a bit weird at first, but soon you won't even be thinking about it, you'll just "do" it.


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## nickAKA (23 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> ive already cut back on calories to create a deficit for weight loss and am drinking plenty of water to hydrate myself. I’ve also upped my protein for muscle mass and to get those much needed gains! If anyone can offer any more advice with regards to nutrition I’d be very greatful!
> Finally, I have committed to the velo now. Signed up and registered to take part to raise money for the Alzheimer’s Society last night. So, that’s that!
> Never done anything close to this before so the challenge itself is daunting! But game on!
> 
> ...



If you're getting out and doing (for instance) an hours reasonably strenuous excercise - ie doing enough to get a sweat on and become out of breath - you'll be using up a considerable amount of calories; maintaining your current diet should see you 'turn the corner' and start to lose some weight gradually, assuming you're not massively overeating and your diet is pretty well balanced. We could all improve our diets of course, but aiming for weight loss goals whatever the cost is the hair shirt method which generally results in added pressure, eventual failure & self-loathing.
I can only go from my personal experience here and repeat, DON'T obsess on your weight right now - concentrate on getting your stamina & fitness to a level where being on the bike for 6 hours + won't mess you up for a week afterwards  You will lose weight as a consequence of these efforts over time if you carry on exercising and eat sensibly - you don't need to torture yourself. Once you're fit enough to be blase about riding 20, 30, 40 + miles the rest will take care of itself.
Slow & steady is the best way, you're young and have time on your side!


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## RoadRider400 (23 Jan 2020)

BigMeatball said:


> Also, try and go to one of those basic bike maintenance courses that teach you how to deal with the most common technical issues you might encounter on the road.
> 
> Most local bicycle shops organise them regularly.
> 
> There's nothing worse than being away from home with a puncture you don't know how to fix.



Or just watch them on youtube for free without even leaving home. You can watch various different videos and get slightly different takes on the same issue. Personally I find the tutorials on the Global Cycling Network very good.

Speaking on the topic if flats. As OP is a newbie I would be inclined to suggest changing the inner rather than patching up at the side of the road.


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## LibraRider (24 Jan 2020)

Thanks so much for all of your advice so far, I’m feeling fairly confident in getting going now. Planning to have my first ride tomorrow and see how it goes.

I was wondering if you guys could help me with a few questions though.

I have a carrera vengeance flat bar hybrid bike. Managed to get it second hand from EBay for £140 so I thought that’s a pretty good deal just for my start out bike. Since being on here and browsing various other forums I’ve noticed that Carreras get a bit of stick. Is there any reason for this?

Also, this morning before setting out to work I was having a mess around with the preload on the front wheel. I read last night that if you are a heavier rider (which I am) it’s better to have the bike at a high preload, so I decided to turn it right the way up. Only now I’ve found that the front wheel jerks around. I didn’t have time to look at it properly this morning so will have another look when I get home - but any ideas why this might be?

Thanks again!


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## Dogtrousers (24 Jan 2020)

6 pages, blimey.

I think if you're riding on the roads you may be better off locking the fork out completely, rather than setting the preload. But as I have never owned a bike with a suspension fork my advice is probably rubbish.


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## LibraRider (24 Jan 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> 6 pages, blimey



 Great isn’t it?! Everyone is so encouraging!


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## BigMeatball (24 Jan 2020)

RoadRider400 said:


> Or just watch them on youtube for free without even leaving home. You can watch various different videos and get slightly different takes on the same issue. Personally I find the tutorials on the Global Cycling Network very good.



sure, why taking up swimming classes when you can just watch a tutorial on youtube?


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## BrumJim (24 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thanks so much for all of your advice so far, I’m feeling fairly confident in getting going now. Planning to have my first ride tomorrow and see how it goes.
> 
> I was wondering if you guys could help me with a few questions though.
> 
> I have a carrera vengeance flat bar hybrid bike. Managed to get it second hand from EBay for £140 so I thought that’s a pretty good deal just for my start out bike. Since being on here and browsing various other forums I’ve noticed that Carreras get a bit of stick. Is there any reason for this?



Not a great bike to do 100 miles on. I would struggle to do that sort of distance on a Mountain-bike type hybrid, especially with front suspension. 

However, as much as you are concerned about nutrition and bike, just concentrate on cycling for the moment. Get out as much as possible and enjoy it.

With regard to nutrition, use it as an incentive. I have met cyclists who regard themselves as cake addicts first, and cyclists as a consequence to prevent weight gain. The big problem is that calories burnt relates to mileage and speed rather than effort. After your first ride you will feel exhausted and barely able to get back in the house again, despite having burnt only a handful of calories. Meanwhile the person who passed you like you were standing still, despite being 2 hours into their ride, and will get home without breaking sweat, will have earned themselves a big slice of sticky cake.


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## BrumJim (24 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ah i never thought of that! Great idea!
> 
> I live in south west Birmingham, if anyone would like to help me out
> 
> ...



Birmingham Velo is a tight timescale for this year, starting from zero. Not impossible, but will take a good chunk of commitment.

Some good riding south west of Birmingham, although there are always the North Worcestershire hills to negotiate before you get back home. Beyond that, though, are the Evesham plains and some lovely countryside. Up for a group ride when you have built up a bit of stamina.


----------



## mjr (24 Jan 2020)

RoadRider400 said:


> Speaking on the topic if flats. As OP is a newbie I would be inclined to suggest changing the inner rather than patching up at the side of the road.


While it's useful to be able to change the tube, it's necessary to be able to patch a flat, especially for those lovely rare cases where you suffer a triple puncture (like I did last weekend) and don't get all the sharp bits out first time (hey, I thought I'd found the cause...). I don't usually carry enough spare tubes for that. I think it's also much easier if you don't have to mess about removing wheels, but I know some people disagree about that.


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## CXRAndy (24 Jan 2020)

Its a basic type bike, absolutely nothing wrong with it to ride and begin your quest.

However, when you're reasonably fit in a few month's time, have a try on a road bike with drop handlebars. You will think its a rocket. It will be much faster to ride

A road bike will be much more suited to doing a hundred mile sportive


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## mjr (24 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> [...] Carreras get a bit of stick. Is there any reason for this?


They're a Half-odds shop brand these days and their quality has varied widely. Some are OK. Others are a bit awkward or heavy.



> Also, this morning before setting out to work I was having a mess around with the preload on the front wheel. I read last night that if you are a heavier rider (which I am) it’s better to have the bike at a high preload, so I decided to turn it right the way up. Only now I’ve found that the front wheel jerks around. I didn’t have time to look at it properly this morning so will have another look when I get home - but any ideas why this might be?


Which preload did you change? There's steerer, hub and sometimes suspension. Generally, steerer and hub bearing preloads either work smoothly, flop around or drag and jam, so there's almost only one right setting for those. I think suspension is a matter of taste and gnarliness of surface but it's been a while since I adjusted one.

More generally, always double-check what you read on the internet, unless it's from a really reputable source like Park Tool or Sheldon Brown. I sometimes wonder if some people are posting duff advice to try to injure cyclists...


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## Reynard (24 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I have a carrera vengeance flat bar hybrid bike. Managed to get it second hand from EBay for £140 so I thought that’s a pretty good deal just for my start out bike. Since being on here and browsing various other forums I’ve noticed that Carreras get a bit of stick. Is there any reason for this?



You've got a bike, and it will more than do to get you started. 

It's not so much Carreras that get the stick as the retailer, as the in-store service is patchy at best. But they're better than a good bit of stuff out there. As long as it's well maintained (CC has a brilliant bike maintenance sub-forum if you need to ask stuff) your bike should serve you well for now.

You may well find that you'll want something different for a sportive - I can't help you with advice there there as sportives aren't my thing - but on the other hand, you may not. Only time in the saddle will tell you whether you'll want something else. IIRC, there's someone on here that's done the London to Brighton on a folder, which just goes to show you don't absolutely *need* a road bike for a sportive. 

If you do want to trade up at some point, there are loads of options around, but you wouldn't go far wrong with Decathlon. Their bikes and kit gets good rep on here.

FWIW, my two rideable bikes (yeah, the other two are in bits) are from Halfords and most of my kit is from Decathlon.  My bikes are Wiggins ones, as I'm a wee bit... undertall.


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## SkipdiverJohn (24 Jan 2020)

All of Halfords stuff gets some stick, especially Apollos. Some of it is just cycling snobbery, some of it has some basis in truth due to poor assembly and set-up out of the shop. Strangely though, I have an Apollo MTB that cost me bugger all, is well over 20 years old, and has carried me around for hundreds and hundreds of trouble-free miles. Halfords sell plenty of OK bikes, but often employ a monkey to prepare them for sale.
Tyres and maintenance are the two critical issues if contemplating a really long ride. You don't want blow outs or punctures spoiling the day, and you don't want to waste energy just so you can listen to knobbly MTB type tyres make a humming noise like an old Army Land Rover. Maintenance is about making sure everything works freely, nothing is going to break or seize up en-route and makes a big difference to confidence. it's no different to having a reliable car versus an unreliable one.


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## I like Skol (24 Jan 2020)

I did my first 100 mile ride (Bike Events Manchester 100) about 15-20 years ago on my MTB with a set of fat slick tyres. I loved it, was passing lots and lots of tired riders on 'proper' bikes.
At the time I was obviously a lot younger than I am now and reasonably fit and active due to a physical job but didn't ride more than 2-300 miles a year at the time and didnt do much in the way training either.
Your bike will be just fine if it is working well and has the right tyres pumped up to a decent pressure.


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## nickyboy (24 Jan 2020)

@SkipdiverJohn and @I like Skol probably make the most important recommendation and that is tyres. If you get these right, within reason the rest of the bike doesn't matter much. You're riding on the road so use tyres designed for this. Slick (ie no tread or absolute minimal tread) and designed to be pumped up to high pressure; 6-7 bar (about 85-105psi). If you have tyres not like this then I suggest you change them. Wrong tyres (ie knobbly ones that run at about 4 bar) will require loads more effort to ride on and aren't suitable at all for long distance road cycling


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## mjr (24 Jan 2020)

nickyboy said:


> Slick (ie no tread or absolute minimal tread) and designed to be pumped up to high pressure; 6-7 bar (about 85-105psi). If you have tyres not like this then I suggest you change them. Wrong tyres (ie knobbly ones that run at about 4 bar) will require loads more effort to ride on and aren't suitable at all for long distance road cycling


The optimal tyre pressure is a function of tyre width, rider/luggage weight and rider position (how much they lean forwards, mainly) more than slick/knobbly. Blindly pumping some 2 inch tyres up to 105psi will probably be uncomfortable. Meanwhile, I run my roadster's semi-slick-but-medium-wide front tyre at 45psi and it rolls easily for 100+ miles, thank you. Even my road bike only has its front at 65psi.

There was a tyre pressure chart at https://www.renehersecycles.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/BQTireDrop.pdf or there are various calculators online.


----------



## RoadRider400 (24 Jan 2020)

BigMeatball said:


> sure, why taking up swimming classes when you can just watch a tutorial on youtube?



Thats an excellent counter point. Alhough I dont personally know of anybody who has died whilst attempting to change an inner tube in their garage without adequate supervision. If this has happened to anybody you know then you have my sincere condolences. May they rest in peace.


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## RoadRider400 (24 Jan 2020)

mjr said:


> While it's useful to be able to change the tube, it's necessary to be able to patch a flat, especially for those lovely rare cases where you suffer a triple puncture (like I did last weekend) and don't get all the sharp bits out first time (hey, I thought I'd found the cause...). I don't usually carry enough spare tubes for that. I think it's also much easier if you don't have to mess about removing wheels, but I know some people disagree about that.



Wow thats some pretty awful luck. Good point for a beginner right there, if changing or patching always check if the cause of the puncture is still present.


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## mjr (24 Jan 2020)

RoadRider400 said:


> Wow thats some pretty awful luck. Good point for a beginner right there, if changing or patching always check if the cause of the puncture is still present.


Or rather, check if the cause of *any* of the punctures is still present. There may be more than one. I've had two before, but this was the first time in more decades than I admit that I had three.


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## boydj (24 Jan 2020)

Lock out the suspension. It's not required for road riding - just makes the bike a lot less efficient.


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## CXRAndy (24 Jan 2020)

Ive done a couple of hundreds on my tripster,. I have run 40 mm Schwalbe G Ones at 40-45 psi, It was so nice and comfy, albeit with a tiny and I mean tiny bit of drag. 

Big slicks can be real quick


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## LibraRider (25 Jan 2020)

Okay thanks guys!
Off on my first ride tomorrow. 
Wish me luck!
I’ll let you know how it goes


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## Reynard (25 Jan 2020)

Righty ho, have fun 

P.S. That post-ride  always tastes fabby xxx


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## DCBassman (25 Jan 2020)

Reynard said:


> Righty ho, have fun
> 
> P.S. That post-ride  always tastes fabby xxx


Indeed it does, nothing quite like it!


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## LibraRider (25 Jan 2020)

I DID IT GUYS!!! 
I even cycled on a dual carriageway!!! 
Im bloody knackered though. 
5.2 mile for my first attempt can't be bad right? 

Check out my strava and let me know what you think  


I think for future rides I need to take some water with me and make sure I have some fuel in my belly though. Riding on an empty stomach left me feeling a bit sick. 
It was good fun though! I liked it! Good job eh? 

I can see the benefits and drawback of the suspension at the front now. Cycling over dips and bumps on the road is easier with the suspension but then it makes the hill climbs a nightmare. Especially when you're on a low gear, pounding away at the pedals and your just seem to be bouncing up and down 

May invest in a road bike when im a bit fitter  

Im so happy!!!!!!


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## vickster (25 Jan 2020)

Yep, get a bottle cage and bottle and eat before cycling (eg some porridge if a morning ride). When you start to do more miles, maybe take a banana or cereal bar with you.
Don't forget lights if it might get dark


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## tom73 (25 Jan 2020)

Nice one


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## Reynard (25 Jan 2020)

Yay, onwards and upwards!


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## HobbesOnTour (25 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I DID IT GUYS!!!
> .....
> Im so happy!!!!!!


Delighted for you!


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## I like Skol (25 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I DID IT GUYS!!!
> I even cycled on a dual carriageway!!!
> Im bloody knackered though.
> 5.2 mile for my first attempt can't be bad right?


Well done, an amazing first ride. How do you feel now, would you be happy to do it again in the next few days?
I checked your Strava and that was the worst kind of ride, downhill on the way out but then uphill for the return when you are starting to get tired.

it's a slippery slope from here, you will soon have three bikes and be riding 50 miles every week....


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## IBarrett (25 Jan 2020)

Well done. 5 miles first time out is a good achievement.


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## Oxford Dave (25 Jan 2020)

That was a better start than mine, first day out (Tuesday last week) was under three miles, the second day about 4 1/2 miles. I've ridden every day since I got the bike and today managed nearly 19 miles without any problems. It comes quicker than you expect when you first get started.


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## 13 rider (25 Jan 2020)

Well done on your first ride  Just a quick look at your Strava map ,could you head towards the reservoir to the left . Don't know the area but looks like there would be quieter roads
Good luck on your progress


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## LibraRider (25 Jan 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Well done, an amazing first ride. How do you feel now, would you be happy to do it again in the next few days?



Thanks Skol  
I pushed myself! Had to stop a few times on the way back to catch my breath - and also my legs just didn't want to go lol
Right now, I feel good! Tired. EXHAUSTED! I will sleep so well tonight - but GREAT! Very accomplished.
Im planning on going out again on Monday evening, after work. Cycling at night will be interesting 



I like Skol said:


> I checked your Strava and that was the worst kind of ride, downhill on the way out but then uphill for the return when you are starting to get tired.



Everywhere where I live has hills. There is literally no choice but to go up and down hill, so hopefully ill get fit quickly!



I like Skol said:


> it's a slippery slope from here, you will soon have three bikes and be riding 50 miles every week....



Haha! I think you may be right - im already considering when to buy a road bike


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## vickster (25 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thanks Skol
> I pushed myself! Had to stop a few times on the way back to catch my breath - and also my legs just didn't want to go lol
> Right now, I feel good! Tired. EXHAUSTED! I will sleep so well tonight - but GREAT! Very accomplished.
> Im planning on going out again on Monday evening, after work. Cycling at night will be interesting
> ...


Save up for a couple of months and see how you're getting on


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## DCBassman (25 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I DID IT GUYS!!!
> I even cycled on a dual carriageway!!!
> Im bloody knackered though.
> 5.2 mile for my first attempt can't be bad right?
> ...


Excellent!


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## CXRAndy (26 Jan 2020)

It wont be long before your trips will take you down to the Cotswolds

Plan, whenever you can to use quieter roads. Less vehicles, more pleasant riding.


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## Racing roadkill (26 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I DID IT GUYS!!!
> I even cycled on a dual carriageway!!!
> Im bloody knackered though.
> 5.2 mile for my first attempt can't be bad right?
> ...


Good effort, keep it up.


----------



## cyberknight (26 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I DID IT GUYS!!!
> I even cycled on a dual carriageway!!!
> Im bloody knackered though.
> 5.2 mile for my first attempt can't be bad right?
> ...


Kudos given well done


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## Reynard (26 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Haha! I think you may be right - im already considering when to buy a road bike



There's always room for an N+1 

But the more you ride, the better idea you'll have of exactly what you're looking for in a road bike, as there are road bikes and there are road bikes. Drop bar bikes are a pretty broad church.

Same is true with all the assorted gubbins and clothes needed for cycling. Don't go out and splurge right now as you'll (invariably) end up with a bunch of stuff that doesn't get used - buy things when you have a need for them.


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## LibraRider (26 Jan 2020)

Guys - just a quick question.
I’m planning on going out again tomorrow evening. Should I do the same route again? Or switch it up? Training wise
If I was to switch it up - I’d keep the same distance just different route.


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## Reynard (26 Jan 2020)

This gal says stick to what you're comfortable with for now. If you've not cycled in the dark before, stay on familiar roads, or just fizz around a park if you've got one nearby.


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## I like Skol (27 Jan 2020)

It's up to you, but retracing a route you already know gives you a better idea of what's ahead, when you will need to put extra effort in and where you can ease off a bit and get your breath back without having to stop.
Also, by doing the same route a few times you will appreciate the improvements (i.e, reducing the time taken to complete the ride, getting up 'that' hill without stopping, etc) and these little but important successes will boost your confidence no end 👍


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## Racing roadkill (27 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Guys - just a quick question.
> I’m planning on going out again tomorrow evening. Should I do the same route again? Or switch it up? Training wise
> If I was to switch it up - I’d keep the same distance just different route.


I’d stick with the route and distance you’re at for a few rides. If you ramp it up too quickly, you risk fatigue, and / or injuries. Keep everything the same for now.


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## tom73 (27 Jan 2020)

Do the same one that way you know what it's like and what to look out for. 
But the main thing is you can keep saying you can do this and for you to know it true.


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## All uphill (27 Jan 2020)

I seem to remember that you went on a dual carriageway first time? If it was at all busy I'd suggest varying your route to avoid that bit.

Otherwise I agree with the comments above.

Enjoy it!


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## LibraRider (27 Jan 2020)

All uphill said:


> I seem to remember that you went on a dual carriageway first time? If it was at all busy I'd suggest varying your route to avoid that bit.
> 
> Otherwise I agree with the comments above.
> 
> Enjoy it!



I think it may be a bit busy this evening because of rush hour so that’s a good shout! I’ll see if I can work a way around it.
Thanks for that!


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## CXRAndy (27 Jan 2020)

Four or five smaller rides per week are more beneficial than one or two longer rides.

The benefits for a new rider, is that it allows contact points to 'toughen up' without getting sore and little often wont overly tire you out. 

Just be patient in these first few weeks. Once you get going, progress will then rapidly accelerate for a few months.


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## Dogtrousers (27 Jan 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> Four or five smaller rides per week are more beneficial than one or two longer rides.


This is true but ... one or two longer rides are more beneficial than no rides at all!! 

So if scheduling is a problem don't let the devil use that fact to invent excuses.


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## Racing roadkill (27 Jan 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> This is true but ... one or two longer rides are more beneficial than no rides at all!!
> 
> So if scheduling is a problem don't let the devil use that fact to invent excuses.


Quite. The idea is to form a habit, it’s harder to form the habit than it is to break it.


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## icowden (27 Jan 2020)

It looks like you have some pretty pleasant roads out towards Frankley reen. Or possibly Egghill Lane / Bartley Reservoir in a loop?
Merrits brook looks like it has a nice path running beside it. You could possibly go up hanging lane, then hoggs lane, left onto holloway and then cycle along the path though ley hill park. There's a weird crossing on shelley lane, then more lovely path through park land up to manor house drive, where you can loop and go back the way you came. Looks like it is part of Merrits Brook Greenway which runs from Ley Hill Park to Stirchley.

The review isn't great, but it might be worth a try to see if the nice parts make a good cycle.
http://www.pushbikes.org.uk/location/merritts-brook-greenway

The advantage of following a watercourse, is that they tend not to be too hilly as water likes to wander slowly down / up hill.

Congrats on the first ride by the way!! That's a horrible route in terms of elevation - if you can find a flatter route, you will find it easier to build distance.


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## nickAKA (27 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I DID IT GUYS!!!
> I even cycled on a dual carriageway!!!
> Im bloody knackered though.
> 5.2 mile for my first attempt can't be bad right?
> ...



Well done - the journey (literally) starts here 
I've given you a follow for when you start wondering "who are all these weirdos?"


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## I like Skol (27 Jan 2020)

nickAKA said:


> Well done - the journey (literally) starts here
> I've given you a follow for when you start wondering "who are all these weirdos?"


Ah, the Strava thing....

@LibraRider you do know you can set up an exclusion zone to hide the ride portion around your house and place of work don't you? This is probably worth doing for personal security as it hides your locations from any 'weirdos' and prevents them following you home!

Not trying to scare you but you can't really be too careful. I have restricted my surroundings, not for my security as I am a bald ugly middleaged male so should be safe in that respect, but I don't want anyone trying to nick my bikes!


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## Milkfloat (27 Jan 2020)

@LibraRider - one more tip, make sure you revisit this thread in a few months time to marvel that you found 5.2 miles so tough. By then you will be knocking out 30 mile plus rides and grinning the whole way around thinking it weird that 5 miles was a challenge.

I am not knocking your route, but if you get the chance, stay away from the A38. In fact, given where you are, heading out towards Belbroughton and then eventually Clent Hill would be great fun.


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## LibraRider (27 Jan 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Ah, the Strava thing....
> 
> @LibraRider you do know you can set up an exclusion zone to hide the ride portion around your house and place of work don't you? This is probably worth doing for personal security as it hides your locations from any 'weirdos' and prevents them following you home!
> 
> Not trying to scare you but you can't really be too careful. I have restricted my surroundings, not for my security as I am a bald ugly middleaged male so should be safe in that respect, but I don't want anyone trying to nick my bikes!


Oh god - I got so freaked out then 😂

I've updated that now. Thank you!

@icowden
thank you for the route. I may give it a go. It is a bit hilly though - so perhaps when I’m a little fitter. 😂


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## LibraRider (27 Jan 2020)

Milkfloat said:


> @LibraRider - one more tip, make sure you revisit this thread in a few months time to marvel that you found 5.2 miles so tough. By then you will be knocking out 30 mile plus rides and grinning the whole way around thinking it weird that 5 miles was a challenge.
> 
> I am not knocking your route, but if you get the chance, stay away from the A38. In fact, given where you are, heading out towards Belbroughton and then eventually Clent Hill would be great fun.



Ah yes. The A38 was a bit frightening. Especially when I had to cross over. I need to get used to looking over my shoulder and sitting back on my saddle a bit more.


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## vickster (27 Jan 2020)

Look over your shoulder a lot when on busy roads, especially if you need to turn, change lane, even avoid a pothole or drain. It also alerts drivers, also indicate with your arm in plenty of time


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## boydj (27 Jan 2020)

Well done on the first ride. I'd definitely mix up the routes as you build up your experience. I'd also caution against chasing times for the first few weeks. Listen to your body. If you're tired, either take a rest or go out and take it very easy. Your fitness will build up quickly initially. It's important to get the habit established and to grow your cycling skills and go through the learning curve of dealing with traffic and learning the vagaries of the driver population.


----------



## nickAKA (28 Jan 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Ah, the Strava thing....
> 
> @LibraRider you do know you can set up an exclusion zone to hide the ride portion around your house and place of work don't you? This is probably worth doing for personal security as it hides your locations from any 'weirdos' and prevents them following you home!
> 
> Not trying to scare you but you can't really be too careful. I have restricted my surroundings, not for my security as I am a bald ugly middleaged male so should be safe in that respect, but I don't want anyone trying to nick my bikes!



She's safe from you & I though obviously, I only stalk locals...


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## I like Skol (28 Jan 2020)

nickAKA said:


> She's safe from you & I though obviously, I only stalk locals...


And I'm not a weirdo, so we're all good


----------



## LibraRider (28 Jan 2020)

Got my 2nd ride in tonight guys!
Little bit further - little bit steeper - little bit colder.

I survived though! And In the dark too!


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## DCBassman (28 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Got my 2nd ride in tonight guys!
> Little bit further - little bit steeper - little bit colder.
> 
> I survived though! And In the dark too!


You're hardier than I - I don't go out at night, and try really, really hard not to go out in the cold, either!
Definitely going to think about London to Brighton again this year, about time I did it on a lighter bike....It remains my longest ever ride, not good for the years I've had the bikes!


----------



## Racing roadkill (28 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Got my 2nd ride in tonight guys!
> Little bit further - little bit steeper - little bit colder.
> 
> I survived though! And In the dark too!


Good stuff.


----------



## LibraRider (28 Jan 2020)

😄

After this evenings ride, I’ve realised I need some better lights. Especially on the front so I can see the ground clearly.
Do you guys have any recommendations? There’s so many to choose from on Amazon I don’t even know where to start


----------



## Racing roadkill (28 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 😄
> 
> After this evenings ride, I’ve realised I need some better lights. Especially on the front so I can see the ground clearly.
> Do you guys have any recommendations? There’s so many to choose from on Amazon I don’t even know where to start


https://www.aldi.co.uk/front-&-rear-bike-light-set/p/017096282743300
These are superb. I’ve got a couple of sets, and they really are pretty impressive. Every year Aldi do a cycle special buy event, and I always make a bee line for these lights. It’s good to see you can still get them on line.


----------



## Reynard (28 Jan 2020)

DCBassman said:


> You're hardier than I - I don't go out at night, and try really, really hard not to go out in the cold, either!
> Definitely going to think about London to Brighton again this year, about time I did it on a lighter bike....It remains my longest ever ride, not good for the years I've had the bikes!



I like riding at night - the advantage of living rural, I guess. There's a certain peace when it's just you, your bike and the night... Cold isn't so bad, although I do end up looking like the Michelin Woman... 



LibraRider said:


> 😄
> 
> After this evenings ride, I’ve realised I need some better lights. Especially on the front so I can see the ground clearly.
> Do you guys have any recommendations? There’s so many to choose from on Amazon I don’t even know where to start



I'm keeping an eye on the recommendations as the smaller of my two USB lights has called it quits, and the other isn't as good as it could be.


----------



## LibraRider (28 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> https://www.aldi.co.uk/front-&-rear-bike-light-set/p/017096282743300
> These are superb. I’ve got a couple of sets, and they really are pretty impressive. Every year Aldi do a cycle special buy event, and I always make a bee line for these lights. It’s good to see you can still get them on line.


Ahhhh someone at work told me about these - I did google them myself earlier so I’m glad you mentioned them! 
Is the front light bright enough to see the road and things when your cycling down dark pathways etc? How often would you say you have to charge them?


----------



## Racing roadkill (29 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ahhhh someone at work told me about these - I did google them myself earlier so I’m glad you mentioned them!
> Is the front light bright enough to see the road and things when your cycling down dark pathways etc? How often would you say you have to charge them?


They are pretty much bright enough to be seen from space.The charging depends on the useage, but if I’ve got them on full whack ( you can increase the brightness by pressing the button more times ) I’ll recharge them after each ride ( they’ll last a good couple of hours on full power).


----------



## CXRAndy (29 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ahhhh someone at work told me about these - I did google them myself earlier so I’m glad you mentioned them!
> Is the front light bright enough to see the road and things when your cycling down dark pathways etc? How often would you say you have to charge them?


A front light of around 500 lumens has enough to provide a good amount of light to show potholes and debris. I have Niterider 750 front light.

The road CC website has a visual comparison page, so you can see directly how well they illuminate. They also do rear lights as well. I advocate brighter the better for both front and rear. some of the cheap lights you cant see or be seen from more than 50 yards. My lights has been mentioned to me are piercing to the eye at half a mile 

Here- https://road.cc/content/buyers-guid...hts-cycling-40-light-beam-comparison-plus-how


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## nickAKA (29 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 😄
> 
> After this evenings ride, I’ve realised I need some better lights. Especially on the front so I can see the ground clearly.
> Do you guys have any recommendations? There’s so many to choose from on Amazon I don’t even know where to start



Merlin's daily offer email has just plopped into my inbox - my mate swears by the moon meteor but there's plenty of choice here for all budgets:
Moon meteor


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## CXRAndy (29 Jan 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> I have Niterider 750 front light.





nickAKA said:


> Merlin's daily offer email has just plopped into my inbox - my mate swears by the moon meteor but there's plenty of choice here for all budgets:
> Moon meteor



Here is the comparison

https://road.cc/content/buyers-guid...hts-cycling-40-light-beam-comparison-plus-how

Just move the centre line left or right to get a direct comparison.

Change the light selection to compare something else

Then go online to pick the ones you like, because prices listed on Road cc are RRP


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## LibraRider (29 Jan 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> Here is the comparison
> 
> https://road.cc/content/buyers-guid...hts-cycling-40-light-beam-comparison-plus-how
> 
> ...


This is great! I’ll have a look through them all
Thanks!


----------



## Dogtrousers (29 Jan 2020)

Re lights, there are tons of good lights out there. My only advice is to use two rear lights. This is because you can't see if one of them stops working. Of course this redundancy is no good at all if you forget to switch the damn things on in the first place. 

See this recent thread for loads of really good cheap rear lights https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/which-2xaaa-rear-light.255933/


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## Alberto Balsam (29 Jan 2020)

I got one of these off ebay; They're incredibly bright, fantastic on the unlit country lanes round here. Make sure it points down and kerbside though. As others have said, have more than 1 front and rear. I also have a front and rear light on my helmet. Like this one


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## LibraRider (30 Jan 2020)

Velo route is up! 😫


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## Racing roadkill (30 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Velo route is up! 😫
> View attachment 502585


Yeah, I think I’ll pass. The locals have already started a pitchforky petition to get it cancelled or moved, or have the route changed. This mob really aren’t very good at getting their events right.


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## BrumJim (30 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> Yeah, I think I’ll pass.



The only chance you will get to ride through Aston, Castle Vale AND Rubery without getting your bike nicked!


----------



## Racing roadkill (30 Jan 2020)

BrumJim said:


> The only chance you will get to ride through Aston, Castle Vale AND Rubery without getting your bike nicked!


Judging by the riding standards I encountered a couple of years back, there wouldn’t be much of a bike left to nick, if you haven’t got your head on a swivel, and the reactions of a house fly


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## I like Skol (30 Jan 2020)

I'm sure it will be a good ride.
There is always a bit of snobbery about these types of events because the 'racers' get upset about people getting in their way when they are trying to 'race'. It's laughable because what these Strava queen's should actually be doing is strapping a number on their chests and signing up for a real race and then see how many people they can beat!
I've done several such events and enjoyed them enormously and never encountered too much of the so called appalling riding that is suggested. In fact I am likely to be doing two this year, the Manchester-Blackpool 60 mile and Manchester 100 mile a month or two later, probably with my son's.


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## LibraRider (30 Jan 2020)

I like Skol said:


> I'm sure it will be a good ride.
> There is always a bit of snobbery about these types of events because the 'racers' get upset about people getting in their way when they are trying to 'race'. It's laughable because what these Strava queen's should actually be doing is strapping a number on their chests and signing up for a real race and then see how many people they can beat!
> I've done several such events and enjoyed them enormously and never encountered too much of the so called appalling riding that is suggested. In fact I am likely to be doing two this year, the Manchester-Blackpool 60 mile and Manchester 100 mile a month or two later, probably with my son's.


Ahh I’m probably going to be at the back anyway so they won’t have to worry about me being in the way haha! 
Maybe if I enjoy this one I’ll do more too! I’m pretty sure I’m going to get into this cycling thing! Already thinking about getting a road bike soon so I can get used to riding that.


----------



## LibraRider (30 Jan 2020)

Racing roadkill said:


> Yeah, I think I’ll pass. The locals have already started a pitchforky petition to get it cancelled or moved, or have the route changed. This mob really aren’t very good at getting their events right.


Last year - people we’re driving at the riders near Longbridge. I think someone got knocked off by a car and one of the volunteers got run over. 🙄


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## CXRAndy (30 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Last year - people we’re driving at the riders near Longbridge. I think someone got knocked off by a car and one of the volunteers got run over. 🙄



I cant really fathom some folk, who willfully try injure a cyclist. These events raise money for local charities generally. 

You would think seeing lots of types of riders would enthuse some who dont cycle to have a go


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## Racing roadkill (30 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Last year - people we’re driving at the riders near Longbridge. I think someone got knocked off by a car and one of the volunteers got run over. 🙄


I did it in the first year ( the oil and nails all over the road edition). I swore I never would again, so far I’ve achieved that


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## Milkfloat (31 Jan 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ahh I’m probably going to be at the back anyway so they won’t have to worry about me being in the way haha!


There is no real back as they mix up the abilities of the riders, so although you won't find yourself with those who are trying to 'win', you will be mixing up with faster and slower riders. I would suggest that you try to keep to the left when possible and get very good at shoulder checking. It is not quite the war zone as reported by some, but it is best to keep your wits about you. However, there are usually no cars to worry about.


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## LibraRider (2 Feb 2020)

10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!! 

😆😆😆

Birmingham is so beautiful when you see it from your bike saddle rather than the car window! 

Any tips on how I can get faster? 
Gym based exercises you’d advise? Or should I just keep going for now?


----------



## Ming the Merciless (2 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...



Just keep riding for now. When first starting more riding will improve fitness at a fantastic rate.


----------



## Racing roadkill (2 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...


Just ride more for now. It sounds like you’re getting into the swing of it. When you need to get quicker, there are a good few things you can do, but don’t worry too much about it right now


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## All uphill (2 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...


That's brilliant! Just keep enjoying it! Sounds like your fitness is improving already.


----------



## Reynard (2 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...



Just ride for now, and simply keep enjoying it. 

But do remember that rest and recovery is as important as exercise. If you want to mix things up a bit, go for a nice brisk walk instead. It'll help with your overall fitness, it's load bearing (compared to cycling, which isn't) and it's far kinder on the knees and ankles than running. If you do want to make it harder, then get a backpack and wang a few tins of beans in. No need to worry about joining a gym.


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## nickAKA (3 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...



Speed / pace comes with fitness & confidence - as everyone has suggested just keep going as you are, enjoying it, you will naturally become quicker (and more competitive ).


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## SkipdiverJohn (4 Feb 2020)

Reynard said:


> If you want to mix things up a bit, go for a nice brisk walk instead. It'll help with your overall fitness, it's load bearing (compared to cycling, which isn't) and it's far kinder on the knees and ankles than running. If you do want to make it harder, then get a backpack and wang a few tins of beans in. No need to worry about joining a gym.



Or just get your food shopping on foot and carry it home, which is what I often do. Quite often, its just as quick as using a car or bus, plus its free and you get some exercise thrown in.


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## Reynard (4 Feb 2020)

SkipdiverJohn said:


> Or just get your food shopping on foot and carry it home, which is what I often do. Quite often, its just as quick as using a car or bus, plus its free and you get some exercise thrown in.



In my experience of London (am born and bred) that's pretty well much par for course.  So would imagine the same would be true for the OP in Brum.


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## Fab Foodie (4 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...


Well done! Just keep it up and the miles will soon fly by....


----------



## LibraRider (4 Feb 2020)

So I've made the decision this evening to sign up to 3 smaller sportive events around the west midlands to build up my mileage and get used to riding in a big group of people. 

- Ride the Reservoir - March 15th - 16 miles 
- Bostin' chase Sportive - April 26th - 40 miles 
- Bostin' Bridge Sportive - May 17th - 60 miles 

Hopefully that will help me get to the 100 mile goal in the velo


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## boydj (4 Feb 2020)

It's good to have intermediate goals on your way to achieving your main goal. These will keep you motivated to get the miles in. By the middle of March the 16 miles should be easily achieved and give you a good idea of how your training is progressing.


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## CXRAndy (5 Feb 2020)

I remember that once I could ride around 30 miles without being totally knackered- which didn't take more than a few months to achieve. Everything after was just a case of more time, a bit more food and water. 

Benefits are around 30 mile and above trips are cafe stops to replenish and chat with other riders who will arrive at said cafes too.


----------



## nickAKA (5 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> I remember that once I could ride around 30 miles without being totally knackered- which didn't take more than a few months to achieve. Everything after was just a case of more time, a bit more food and water.
> 
> Benefits are around 30 mile and above trips are cafe stops to replenish and chat with other riders who will arrive at said cafes too.


Exactly this. I've never done a long ride (>30 miles) where I didn't stop at some point for a breather or a brew. It's different doing a short ride where you're looking to get the maximum training benefit, but that's where I'd normally resort to the turbo anyway. The road rides are generally done with company & for pleasure.


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## BrumJim (5 Feb 2020)

I'm doing the Ride the Reservoir 16 mile option too. See you there. I'll be with mini me.

Not done any of those rides, but they look fine, and in a nice part of the country. The Bostin Bridge one has a nasty climb at around 40 miles that will really test you, but in the worst case, you can always get off the bike and push it up the hill. You won't be the only one.

How are you on Bike Maintenance? There should be a few courses around, and some particularly for women. Birmingham Bike Foundry and Northfield Ecocentre are a couple of places to start.


----------



## LibraRider (5 Feb 2020)

BrumJim said:


> I'm doing the Ride the Reservoir 16 mile option too. See you there. I'll be with mini me.
> 
> Not done any of those rides, but they look fine, and in a nice part of the country. The Bostin Bridge one has a nasty climb at around 40 miles that will really test you, but in the worst case, you can always get off the bike and push it up the hill. You won't be the only one.
> 
> How are you on Bike Maintenance? There should be a few courses around, and some particularly for women. Birmingham Bike Foundry and Northfield Ecocentre are a couple of places to start.



Ah nice one! I may indeed see you there then! 

I’m hoping that by the time Bostin bridge comes up I will be able to cycle up half of it haha. Fingers crossed! 

My maintenance - I’m clueless. Tend to rely on YouTube videos. I will get myself booked onto a course at some point though. 

Looking at purchasing a triban 500 this weekend - then I’ll get booked in I think. 

Also looking at joining a cycling club near me to get those extra miles in. 

Just need to get over this rotten cold that came on Monday! 🤒


----------



## Spiderweb (5 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> 10.8 MILES TODAY!!!!!
> 
> 😆😆😆
> 
> ...


WOW, Well done!!


----------



## LibraRider (6 Feb 2020)

So im thinking of getting a road bike so I can adjust to the different gears and drop bars well ahead of the velo and my first sportive in March. 

I have narrowed it down to 3 I think - that are within my price range ATM (second hand ones) 

What are your thoughts on these? 

B'twin Triban 500 - click

Carrera Zelos - click

Trek Madone 4.5 - click

They're a bit old - but remember I am just starting out. I will invest in a better more up-to-date beauty closer to june  

All opinions and advice welcomed as usual


----------



## vickster (6 Feb 2020)

What's your budget?

I can't imagine that the Trek you've linkedis available for the same price as the others if it's legit

What size road bike do you need? How tall. Are you? Inside leg measurement?


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## Milkfloat (6 Feb 2020)

As a serial bike buyer, even I would not consider a new bike now just to replace it with one very similar on a few months time. You could of course buy a winter bike now (cheapish components with good mudguards) and look for a summer bike later.


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## LibraRider (6 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> What's your budget?
> 
> I can't imagine that the Trek you've linkedis available for the same price as the others if it's legit
> 
> What size road bike do you need? How tall. Are you? Inside leg measurement?



It’s on eBay at £100 atm haha - hoping no one else bids on it 🤞

I’m 5ft 8 - so need a medium frame ideally - budget is below £200


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## nickyboy (6 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> It’s on eBay at £100 atm haha - hoping no one else bids on it 🤞
> 
> I’m 5ft 8 - so need a medium frame ideally - budget is below £200


The Trek will get bid up beyond your budget
If you can get a rideable Triban 500 in your budget I'd go with that. It'll be fine for all your sportives, no need to replace it for the time being. There are zillions out there so even if you don't buy the one you've got your eye on others will come along. Also the replacement parts are cheap for the same reason


----------



## vickster (6 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> It’s on eBay at £100 atm haha - hoping no one else bids on it 🤞
> 
> I’m 5ft 8 - so need a medium frame ideally - budget is below £200


You're female I think? If buying a 'men's' bike, keep some budget aside for a decent women's saddle, possibly a shorter handlebar stem and some narrower drop bars + new tape (£75 or so should do it, less if get used parts)
Unless it's had parts replaced recently, I'd also budget for a new cassette, cables and chain (another £40 or so, plus labour unless you do yourself (in which case you might need some tools and a bike stand))

A M or 54cm frame would probably be ok.


----------



## BigMeatball (6 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> It’s on eBay at £100 atm haha - hoping no one else bids on it 🤞
> 
> I’m 5ft 8 - so need a medium frame ideally - budget is below £200



If you're open to 2nd hand bikes, have you checked what's available on gumtree?


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## Racing roadkill (6 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> So im thinking of getting a road bike so I can adjust to the different gears and drop bars well ahead of the velo and my first sportive in March.
> 
> I have narrowed it down to 3 I think - that are within my price range ATM (second hand ones)
> 
> ...


The Triban is a very competent bike. It’s a pretty good bike to start off with. I bought a Triban 520 about 5 years ago, I’ve still got it, because it’s a doddle to upgrade the bits. It’s currently on a Shimano R7000 11 speed Groupset, and better wheels, and it has the measure of 3 grand rigs every day, which really irritates some people with 3 Grand rigs


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## CXRAndy (6 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> So im thinking of getting a road bike so I can adjust to the different gears and drop bars well ahead of the velo and my first sportive in March.
> 
> I have narrowed it down to 3 I think - that are within my price range ATM (second hand ones)
> 
> ...



A good basis for your first road bike is nothing too aggressive in ride position, wide tyre and slightly easier gearing.

So a 'endurance' type frame. Descriptions like touring/gravel/endurance are suitable

Wide tyres is upto 40mm, but 35mm is fine.

easy gearing. Crank (gears on pedals) 46/32 48/32 or 50/34-described as compact. The other two are described as sub compact/touring

Cassette (gears on back wheel)

For ease of going up steep hills. 11-32 or 11-34. 11 teeth makes bike go faster 34 teeth allows easier pedalling up hills.

With that in mind choose a bike with these parameters above for as cheap as you can get them. eBay is good place with lots of nearly new bikes from last years enthusiastic new riders who just give up after a couple of weeks. 

The Triban is the nearest to my outline above. 

Ill do a quick look on eBay


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## vickster (6 Feb 2020)

BigMeatball said:


> If you're open to 2nd hand bikes, have you checked what's available on gumtree?


Indeed, must be a reasonable choice in and around Birmingham


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## LibraRider (6 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> A good basis for your first road bike is nothing too aggressive in ride position, wide tyre and slightly easier gearing.
> 
> So a 'endurance' type frame. Descriptions like touring/gravel/endurance are suitable
> 
> ...



Great! Thank you! 

In and around bham ideally - but will travel up to 50miles for a bargain 

Please let me know if you find anything. 

I am watching a few ATM myself on eBay


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## vickster (6 Feb 2020)

Giant Avails are cracking women specific design models, at 5'8 you'll want a medium (or the men's Defy, a small would be better for your height I think, a medium was too big for me at a female 5'10, long legs, shorter torso )


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## Reynard (6 Feb 2020)

As a newbie, buying a used bike blind without really knowing what you're looking for comes with a lot of pitfalls. You may get lucky. But also, you may not.

I'd have a look to see if there isn't a bike co-operative or something of that ilk in your neck of the woods. They'll have refurbished bikes for sale, plus you'd have the benefit of getting advice, they'll have maintenance classes etc.

Why not place a request in the "wanted" section of the forum's classifieds. Who knows, there may be someone on here who is selling something that might suit.


----------



## CXRAndy (6 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Great! Thank you!
> 
> In and around bham ideally - but will travel up to 50miles for a bargain
> 
> ...




I spotted this. Giant Avail womans bike M size. £180 no bids ends tomorrow. A little further in Windsor

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Giant-Liv-Avail-3-Ladies-Road-Bike-/333501905147


Another here more expensive, but its too pricey for its age make an offer if it appeals. Location Slough

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Giant-Liv-Avail-2-Womens-Road-Bike-/223893873007


----------



## nickAKA (7 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> I spotted this. Giant Avail womans bike M size. £180 no bids ends tomorrow. A little further in Windsor
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Giant-Liv-Avail-3-Ladies-Road-Bike-/333501905147
> 
> ...



Both decent.
I'd throw an offer in on the first one whilst there are no bids on it. Got to be worth £150?
Second one is a better spec and if it's only been ridden twice... but realistically, £250-£300? Probably 'worth' more but it's only worth what someone is willing to pay for it... BS about the saddle, offer £250 and tell the seller to put the original saddle back on it. You'd probably end up changing it anyway.


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## LibraRider (7 Feb 2020)

£400 is pricey!!! Lol

I’ve thought about getting a new bike on finance too? Has anyone else done this? 

What are people’s thoughts on the Raleigh bikes now? They used to be alright back in the day


----------



## HobbesOnTour (7 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I’ve thought about getting a new bike on finance too? Has anyone else done this?



Can I be boring and dull and suggest that if you're considering getting a different bike on finance to wait until you're sure you know what you want and need? 

Learn on the bike you have - not just how to cycle but how to do basic maintenance, road craft, navigation. The more you do the more you learn. The more you learn the better decision you'll make when it comes to the "new" bike.

If you can afford a road bike now and to upgrade it before your ride that's fine. However, I'd personally avoid finance unless I really, really needed it.

Right now it should all be about enjoyment, comfort and clocking up time and experience on the bike. I don't think you need a new bike for any of that.


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## figbat (7 Feb 2020)

Is cycle-to-work an option?


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## 12boy (7 Feb 2020)

I second the idea of riding your hybrid for a while because......
You can work on getting the ergonomics just right. Once saddle height, fore and aft position, saddle angle and hand placements are dialed in you can duplicate that on your future bikes. All my bikes are the same in those critical areas.
You can, through experience, learn what to look for in another bike and what to avoid. The hype and jargon can be baffling at first.
As said by others, tire choice makes a hell of a difference. Fitting lightweight slicks can be a revelation. Putting lightweight tires on my bikes after a winter on studded snow ties at twice the tire weight is like growing wings as an example and easily adds 3-4 mph with less effort . 
I'd hold off on a new bike for a bit and invest a little money in a good, long distance saddle and if you have a flat bar, perhaps some bar ends. Be nice to have some minimal tools and a spare innertube and patch kit. A fairly large bike bag off the saddle will hold the tools and allow you to tote extra clothes or remove layers as needs be. That good saddle can be transferred from bike to bike, although I have 5 identical ones for my favorite 5 bikes. Another item you may find worthwhile is a mirror that allows you to check for cars behind you without twisting to look over your shoulder.
As your mileage increases whatever ergonomic or saddle problems you may have will become more noticeable. You will also develop muscle memory that will make shifting and finding the brake levers automatic and quick.


----------



## LibraRider (8 Feb 2020)

Thanks everyone!

I have managed to find myself a Carrera Virtuoso for a nice price (see pics) 

Going to have a look and pick it up later today providing all is well. 

I do appreciate your opinions with continuing to ride my hybrid - and i have no intentions of not riding it. I just wanted to get a road bike so I can get used to the different speed of it, the narrow wheels, the drop bars and just all round training really. 
I will use the hybrid on days when the road is a little wetter/muddier.


----------



## vickster (8 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thanks everyone!
> 
> I have managed to find myself a Carrera Virtuoso for a nice price (see pics)
> 
> ...


Looks good enjoy. Do make sure it’s the right size, don’t just look at it, ride it around the block as a minimum. If too big you’ll feel stretched, small really cramped. If it’s marginal, both could be resolved with a shorter or longer stem. If it’s a mans version, you may want narrower bars and a women’s saddle as mentioned elsewhere


----------



## cyberknight (8 Feb 2020)

nice looks like it has mtb style clipless pedals for shoes with the 2 bolt recessed metal cleat , do you have that sort of shoe or you will have to change them to ride.
Based on the OP 5 foot 8 if i remember ? halfords sizing a 51 frame =54 top tube, 54 = 56 top tube


----------



## 12boy (8 Feb 2020)

Ah... the heart wants what the heart wants. Get some miles in and enjoy your new friend.


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## LibraRider (8 Feb 2020)

cyberknight said:


> nice looks like it has mtb style clipless pedals for shoes with the 2 bolt recessed metal cleat , do you have that sort of shoe or you will have to change them to ride.
> Based on the OP 5 foot 8 if i remember ? halfords sizing a 51 frame =54 top tube, 54 = 56 top tube


I have bought some standard pedals for on it for now - maybe I’ll be brave enough to try cleats in the future. 

It’s a lovey bike. Previous owner had only done 17 miles on it.


----------



## 13 rider (8 Feb 2020)

Enjoy the new ride looks a really good find


----------



## cyberknight (8 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I have bought some standard pedals for on it for now - maybe I’ll be brave enough to try cleats in the future.
> 
> It’s a lovey bike. Previous owner had only done 17 miles on it.


I have had a couple of carreras as a serial C2W buyer , cracking bikes for the money and if i can wangle it with my wife i want their entry level one with disks for commuting .


----------



## BrumJim (10 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I have bought some standard pedals for on it for now - maybe I’ll be brave enough to try cleats in the future.
> 
> It’s a lovey bike. Previous owner had only done 17 miles on it.


That is criminal!

Be prepared to fall in love with this one, and regret every day you end up on the hybrid.


----------



## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> Re lights, there are tons of good lights out there. My only advice is to use two rear lights. This is because you can't see if one of them stops working. Of course this redundancy is no good at all if you forget to switch the damn things on in the first place.


There are tons of good lights out there. There's also loads of road-illegal (mostly dazzling MTB torches) and legally-insufficient (wimpy statics) defended by probably-clueless British cyclists who have never owned a decent legal light. You can identify most of the decent legal lights currently available by a "K~" number marking on them, by a phrase like "StVZO approved" in the description and by the brightness being stated in lux on the road at 10m, not meaningless lumens. You can identify some of the shoot by phrases like "to be used in conjunction with lights complying with the Road Vehicle Lighting Regulations" in responsible shops like Aldi (but not Half odds who will gladly sell you MTB lights for a road bike without warning).<end rant>

Lidl has been the easiest UK source of cheap decent legal front lights in recent years. Most of their bike special offers have been better than Aldi's for about a decade.

I wouldn't advise using two rear lights. I'd put the rear light where you can look at it and see it's working: probably the back of the luggage rack or the driveside seat stay. I carry emergency blinkies just in case the main lights fail somehow, but why run batteries down unnecessarily?


----------



## Dogtrousers (10 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> I wouldn't advise using two rear lights. I'd put the rear light where you can look at it and see it's working: probably the back of the luggage rack or the driveside seat stay.


My main light (and reflector combo) is indeed on the back of my rack. It's _not _visible while riding. I have a backup light mounted under the saddle. That's not visible either. Seat stay mounting if you have a rack can be problematic, depending on the rack.

It's up to you whether you use two, of course. But things do fail. Indeed things can also fall off (I have collected other people's lights from the road on night rides on several occasions, but I've never lost one myself). I use rechargeable batteries, so the benefit from not running them down is marginal at best.


----------



## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> My main light (and reflector combo) is indeed on the back of my rack. It's _not _visible while riding. I have a backup light mounted under the saddle. That's not visible either. Seat stay mounting if you have a rack can be problematic, depending on the rack.


Yes, some bikes maybe have problems to overcome to do it, but I feel it's still far better to advise people to fit the light where they can look back and check it's still working, rather than fit two lights where you can't see them and they can both fail unseen - especially if using battery lights on a suitably long ride.


----------



## I like Skol (10 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> Yes, some bikes maybe have problems to overcome to do it, but I feel it's still far better to advise people to fit the light where they can look back and check it's still working, rather than fit two lights where you can't see them and they can both fail unseen - especially if using battery lights on a suitably long ride.


I still think it is best practice to fit two lights. The chance of both failing at the same time are slim to none, while the chance of one light failing and you not noticing for 20-30 minutes are much higher. Who keeps looking back between their legs or at the back wheel to check their light/s are working every couple of minutes?


----------



## LibraRider (10 Feb 2020)

If the roads dry out today, I may take it out for a spin. I’ve been ill over the last week so not been out since last Sunday  
Finally feeling better today! 

Would anyone recommend any winter specific tyres for it?


----------



## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Who keeps looking back between their legs or at the back wheel to check their light/s are working every couple of minutes?


What "best practice" rider doesn't look backwards at least every couple of minutes?


----------



## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> If the roads dry out today, I may take it out for a spin. I’ve been ill over the last week so not been out since last Sunday
> Finally feeling better today!
> 
> Would anyone recommend any winter specific tyres for it?


Only if it's icy where you are. General-purpose tyres should be fine in rain.


----------



## BrumJim (10 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> If the roads dry out today, I may take it out for a spin. I’ve been ill over the last week so not been out since last Sunday
> Finally feeling better today!
> 
> Would anyone recommend any winter specific tyres for it?



DON'T take your best bike out in this weather.


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## I like Skol (10 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> What "best practice" rider doesn't look backwards at least every couple of minutes?


This is really a discussion for another thread but....

While riding do you also keep looking down at your drivetrain to check which gear you are in, or checking your trouser zip to make sure you are not 'flying low'? Of course not, because while on the move, especially in traffic, you have your eyes on the road and road users around you (in front and behind). Looking down at your rear lights every few minutes, or a couple of times a minute if checking every time you look behind, is a bad idea and as advice goes is neither safe, sensible or practical.
Sure I do occasionally check my rear lights while riding, usually because I have a 'Did I actually switch them on?' moment shortly after beginning my 30-40 minute commute, but this is not every commute, maybe 1 in 5? I will also maybe check them once or twice during longer darkness rides, but they are very reliable with a long run time so this is not essential, besides I have two lights so if one fails I am still covered.

In my opinion the following is good advice;
Run two rear lights, either of different types or one flashing and one on constant (always the same ones). This way, even if you tend to charge them both at the same time, they will run flat at different times and avoid you being caught out with no working lights.


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## Dogtrousers (10 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Would anyone recommend any winter specific tyres for it?


On Cyclechat it is now traditional for everyone to recommend their favourite tyres and argue bitterly that anything anyone else has recommended is rubbish (because they have a friend who used them and got a puncture once).

TBH I'd just ride it on the tyres it has for now.


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## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

I like Skol said:


> [...] Looking down at your rear lights every few minutes, or a couple of times a minute if checking every time you look behind, is a bad idea and as advice goes is neither safe, sensible or practical.


I see them every time I look back. That's why they should be good broad lights mounted where you can see them. No specific looking at them is needed. Trying to get the two-poor-lights fans to understand this seems impossible! 




> In my opinion the following is good advice;
> Run two rear lights, either of different types or one flashing and one on constant (always the same ones). This way, even if you tend to charge them both at the same time, they will run flat at different times and avoid you being caught out with no working lights.


Even two of the same lights run in the same mode but recharged at different times could end up flat at similar times thanks to chemistry, entropy and friends meaning their battery capacities diminish differently. Two lights of different types or in different modes is just playing a flat time lottery. Far better to use one good light, recharged cautiously often so it shouldn't run out unless the rechargeable battery needs end-of-life replacement, mounted where you can see it often easily.


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## Dogtrousers (10 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> I see them every time I look back. That's why they should be good broad lights mounted where you can see them. No specific looking at them is needed. Trying to get the two-poor-lights fans to understand this seems impossible!


I have a Busch and Muller Toplight D Permanant on the back of my rack as per the instructions. It is impossible to see if it is working while riding. (Except maybe in pitch dark or foggy conditions). I also run a Cateye Omni 5 under the saddle.

Neither of these are poor lights. The B&M is StVZO compliant. I don't know if the Omni 5 is. And to be honest I don't give a stuff.


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## LibraRider (10 Feb 2020)

I bought the Aldi lights as recommended earlier in this thread. 

They’re pretty bright. Not used them yet out and about though. 

I have a red flashing light on my helmet too lol


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## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> I have a Busch and Muller Toplight D Permanant on the back of my rack as per the instructions. It is impossible to see if it is working while riding. [...] The B&M is StVZO compliant.


That's a bit odd because I'm fairly sure StVZO requires it to be visible from above so the rider can check it. That's another feature why StVZO is usually a good synonym for decent as well as legally-sufficient.


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## Oxford Dave (10 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I bought the Aldi lights as recommended earlier in this thread.
> 
> They’re pretty bright. Not used them yet out and about though.
> 
> I have a red flashing light on my helmet too lol


I have exactly the same and also haven't used them yet.


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## Dogtrousers (10 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> That's a bit odd because I'm fairly sure StVZO requires it to be visible from above so the rider can check it. That's another feature why StVZO is usually a good synonym for decent as well as legally-sufficient.


It's mounted on the back of a rack and therefore my rack pack is in the way. If I never carried anything on my rack, and if I craned my neck round through 180 degrees then maybe, just maybe I might be able to see it. However the reason I have a rack is to carry stuff on.

As it is I run two lights so the issue doesn't arise. 

I think this sub thread has run its course. My advice to anyone interested is to run two rear lights for the advantages of redundancy. You feel that this is a bad thing and that one light should suffice. We'll just have to agree to differ. I'm happy with that.


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## cyberknight (10 Feb 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> It's mounted on the back of a rack and therefore my rack pack is in the way. If I never carried anything on my rack, and if I craned my neck round through 180 degrees then maybe, just maybe I might be able to see it. However the reason I have a rack is to carry stuff on.
> 
> As it is I run two lights so the issue doesn't arise.
> 
> I think this sub thread has run its course. My advice to anyone interested is to run two rear lights for the advantages of redundancy. You feel that this is a bad thing and that one light should suffice. We'll just have to agree to differ. I'm happy with that.


for commuting i run 3 one on the seatpost and a clip on on each pannier


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## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

cyberknight said:


> for commuting i run 3 one on the seatpost and a clip on on each pannier


Don't people mistake you for a plane tail and wingtip marker lights further away?


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## mjr (10 Feb 2020)

Dogtrousers said:


> It's mounted on the back of a rack and therefore my rack pack is in the way.


As I often do but can still see the rear light. Your rack must be shorter, pack higher or something else odd.

Agreed to disagree.


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## cyberknight (10 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> Don't people mistake you for a plane tail and wingtip marker lights further away?


i dont get many close passes thats for sure


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## Racing roadkill (11 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I bought the Aldi lights as recommended earlier in this thread.
> 
> They’re pretty bright. Not used them yet out and about though.
> 
> I have a red flashing light on my helmet too lol


Good choice, on full whack you can pretty much see them from space. The beam pattern is pretty good too.


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## carlosfandangus (11 Feb 2020)

After reading your recommendation for the Aldi lights (Racing roadkill) I bought two sets, the free postage made sense to buy two, I normally use Hope R2 front and Hope district rear for winter commutes, however not commuting at the moment, so the Aldi one was bought to keep on the bars, side by side test the hopes won, however on full power the Aldi was close, and certainly good enough for unlit country roads, great light set and a bargain price, the rear is good too


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## LibraRider (11 Feb 2020)

carlosfandangus said:


> After reading your recommendation for the Aldi lights (Racing roadkill) I bought two sets, the free postage made sense to buy two, I normally use Hope R2 front and Hope district rear for winter commutes, however not commuting at the moment, so the Aldi one was bought to keep on the bars, side by side test the hopes won, however on full power the Aldi was close, and certainly good enough for unlit country roads, great light set and a bargain price, the rear is good too



Does your rear light or either of them flash? I can’t figure out how to make mine flash lol


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## carlosfandangus (11 Feb 2020)

Just keep pressing the buttons! the rear has several flash modes and the front, one, they are good lights and I have a lot to compare them with!


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## LibraRider (11 Feb 2020)

carlosfandangus said:


> Just keep pressing the buttons! the rear has several flash modes and the front, one, they are good lights and I have a lot to compare them with!


Ah I’ve pressed through them all! Maybe I have a faulty set? I’ll have a play again later


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## BigMeatball (11 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ah I’ve pressed through them all! Maybe I have a faulty set? I’ll have a play again later



tried your new carrera yet?


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## I like Skol (11 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Ah I’ve pressed through them all! Maybe I have a faulty set? I’ll have a play again later


Not familiar with the lights you have but often to switch between modes you need to half-press the on/off button rather than pressing it fully. I'm sure you have tried this but it's worth mentioning anyway because if you don't know then you don't know 

Are there any instructions with the lights?


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## LibraRider (11 Feb 2020)

BigMeatball said:


> tried your new carrera yet?



Not yet - sadly. Ice and snow yesterday and Ciara decided she wanted to ruin the weekend.

Maybe later this week if I can.

I’m trying to find a cycle club to join but no one is emailing me back


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## LibraRider (11 Feb 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Not familiar with the lights you have but often to switch between modes you need to half-press the on/off button rather than pressing it fully. I'm sure you have tried this but it's worth mentioning anyway because if you don't know then you don't know
> 
> Are there any instructions with the lights?


Yeah I’ve been pressing away lol.
Never actually thought to keep the instructions - I wonder if they’re still in my car 🧐 good plan Stan!


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## BigMeatball (11 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Not yet - sadly. Ice and snow yesterday and Ciara decided she wanted to ruin the weekend.
> 
> Maybe later this week if I can.
> 
> I’m trying to find a cycle club to join but no one is emailing me back



Emails seem to be quickly becoming a thing of the past.

Find the clubs on instagram and send them a direct message. People are on instagram all day every day now so you might have better luck this way.

Also might want to try to see if they have a facebook group and contact them on there. Especially if it's a cycling group with older folks, facebook is still commonly used by them.


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## carlosfandangus (11 Feb 2020)

Here you go


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## biggs682 (11 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Does your rear light or either of them flash? I can’t figure out how to make mine flash lol



I bought these .
And you have to press the soft button twice quickly and they should flash .


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## LibraRider (11 Feb 2020)

biggs682 said:


> I bought these .
> And you have to press the soft button twice quickly and they should flash .


Ah perfect! It works! 
thank you!


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## LibraRider (11 Feb 2020)

BigMeatball said:


> Emails seem to be quickly becoming a thing of the past.
> 
> Find the clubs on instagram and send them a direct message. People are on instagram all day every day now so you might have better luck this way.
> 
> Also might want to try to see if they have a facebook group and contact them on there. Especially if it's a cycling group with older folks, facebook is still commonly used by them.


Haha I don’t have Instagram - deleted it when I realised it was having no positive influence on my life 😂 
I do still have Facebook though, so that’s a good idea.
I’ll give it a go later


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

So I’ve done 6 miles tonight on the road bike - first time out cycling since having a cold. First time on my new bike. 
It’s much scarier than the hybrid! And I feel like my hands are too small to reach the breaks - which scares me. Any advice on this? Can I make the break shifters (I think that’s what they’re called) smaller so I can grip better? 
Also, my neck was aching 😂


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> So I’ve done 6 miles tonight on the road bike - first time out cycling since having a cold. First time on my new bike.
> It’s much scarier than the hybrid! And I feel like my hands are too small to reach the breaks - which scares me. Any advice on this? Can I make the break shifters (I think that’s what they’re called) smaller so I can grip better?
> Also, my neck was aching 😂


I would personally get some crosslever brakes (also known as inline brakes) fitted to the handlebars, they cost around £25 plus fitting and new tape probably. I have on most of my roadbikes
What brake levers do you have on the bike?
Are the brake levers positioned correctly on the bars. You can swivel them round a little towards you on the bars.
Have you confirmed that the bars are the correct width? Are your elbows locked when you're on the hoods? You might benefit from a shorter reach too if your neck hurts because you're too stretched, you can also flip the stem round to bring the bars up which may help the neck. Assume you've also checked that your saddle is in the right position on the rails?


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

Oh and note...they are brakes  Breaks are bad on bikes


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> What brake levers do you have on the bike?



I think they are Shimano Claris levers

here’s a pic











vickster said:


> Are the brake levers positioned correctly on the bars. You can swivel them round a little towards you on the bars.



I’ll have a look into this. I have no clue.



vickster said:


> Have you confirmed that the bars are the correct width? Are your elbows locked when you're on the hoods?



My elbows are locked yeah. Which is quite uncomfortable. Felt like my hands were cramping up.
How do I check the width? You did mention this before but I forgot 



vickster said:


> You might benefit from a shorter reach too if your neck hurts because you're too stretched, you can also flip the stem round to bring the bars up which may help the neck.



I need to look into this too and the saddle.

seems I have a lot to check! Good job it’s still sat in my dining room much to my partners annoyance haha


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## biggs682 (12 Feb 2020)

@LibraRider Do you feel comfortable on the hybrid for reach ?

If so you could try setting the saddle at same height and then also measure from the seat post to the centre line of the bars / stem joint and compare lengths , i would expect the Carrera to be longer , you might get away with trying a shorter stem or even try shifting the saddle forward on the rails


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

Bar width- measure shoulders
Inline brakes, just take the bike to your local shop and explain, they’ll be able to supply and fit
If elbows locked, you’re reaching too far. If frame correct size, a shorter stem needed


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

biggs682 said:


> @LibraRider Do you feel comfortable on the hybrid for reach ?
> 
> If so you could try setting the saddle at same height and then also measure from the seat post to the centre line of the bars / stem joint and compare lengths , i would expect the Carrera to be longer , you might get away with trying a shorter stem or even try shifting the saddle forward on the rails



Thats a really good idea - except - i took the saddle off my hybrid and put it on my road bike because the other saddle was too uncomfortable! Never thought to measure the height.


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> Bar width- measure shoulders
> Inline brakes, just take the bike to your local shop and explain, they’ll be able to supply and fit
> If elbows locked, you’re reaching too far. If frame correct size, a shorter stem needed


Should the bar width be the same width as my shoulders then? 

I may consider getting some inline breaks if shortening the stem isn't helpful 

Thank you for your advice! You're a star


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## 13 rider (12 Feb 2020)

I believe the reach of claris brake levers can be adjusted via a hex bolt under the rubber cover but this will also alter the tension of the brake cable which in turn may need adjusting


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## biggs682 (12 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thats a really good idea - except - i took the saddle off my hybrid and put it on my road bike because the other saddle was too uncomfortable! Never thought to measure the height.



If you have left the old seat post in the Hybrid without moving it height wise you could just measure to the clamping area on both .


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Should the bar width be the same width as my shoulders then?
> 
> I may consider getting some inline breaks if shortening the stem isn't helpful
> 
> Thank you for your advice! You're a star


Brakes!! 
Yep get someone to measure shoulder blade to blade. Measure current bars centre to centre. I’m female and hardly petite at 5’10 but I use a 38 or 40 c-c bar. Mens bikes the right size usually come with 42 or even 44cm. Toowide, inflame my wrists as they are at wrong angle on hoods or corners


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## Reynard (12 Feb 2020)

Riding a road bike is a very different feeling to riding a hybrid. As a newbie, you'll feel a more marked difference than those of us used to hopping between different bikes. It does take a little getting used to, especially the brakes and gearshift, but once you get the hang of it, it does become second nature.

Other than getting the saddle height right, I wouldn't change anything until you've got the hang of riding the bike. Get that down pat first, and only then start tweaking things.

You'd be surprised how much of the feeling of "not quite right" is just not being used to the bike.

And don't forget, the achey neck is just you not being used to a road bike. It's a different riding position, so you will find you have muscles in places you didn't think you had any.


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> Brakes!!
> Yep get someone to measure shoulder blade to blade. Measure current bars centre to centre. I’m female and hardly petite at 5’10 but I use a 38 or 40 c-c bar. Mens bikes the right size usually come with 42 or even 44cm. Toowide, inflame my wrists as they are at wrong angle on hoods or corners



LOL BRAKES! Although - break does seem more fitting in my case atm 

Okay so - my shoulders are 40cm and the bikes bar is 44cm - so I need a smaller bar im guessing - and therefore need to adjust everything! As well as the stem, saddle etc. 
I have a decathlon not far from me - and a few local bike cafes/workshops that I may need to introduce myself at to help me with this. Unless you can suggest anything else?


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

Reynard said:


> Riding a road bike is a very different feeling to riding a hybrid. As a newbie, you'll feel a more marked difference than those of us used to hopping between different bikes. It does take a little getting used to, especially the brakes and gearshift, but once you get the hang of it, it does become second nature.
> 
> Other than getting the saddle height right, I wouldn't change anything until you've got the hang of riding the bike. Get that down pat first, and only then start tweaking things.
> 
> ...



Thank you. Thats really reassuring - did feel a little shakier. 

I think I have managed to get to grips with the gears though - compared to my hybrid the gear change was much smoother! 

I just don't want to end up not enjoying it because it hurts too much lol. 

I can see myself really getting into cycling and have plans to join clubs and commute to work - so making sure im comfortable is important. 

Plus I have a 100 mile ride in June! Arghhhh


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## 13 rider (12 Feb 2020)

I would go changing too many things just yet . Ride the bike at a bit more to see if you get use to it bike fit is personal and varies person to person . Getting to know a local bike shop or workshop is great for a novice to ask for advice and pick up a few bits from


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## Reynard (12 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thank you. Thats really reassuring - did feel a little shakier.
> 
> I think I have managed to get to grips with the gears though - compared to my hybrid the gear change was much smoother!
> 
> ...



YVW, hun 

The first time I rode my roadie, I was wibbly wobblying all over the place...  I'd come from riding an old-style rigid mountain bike on big fat tyres, and it was like OMG, what the blazes have I done...

Oddly, the faster you ride, the less wobbly it gets.  And your body will get used to it.


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## tom73 (12 Feb 2020)

I’m with others it’s going to feel very different just give it time to get use to things. You soon get use to things at the moment you won’t really know what will help and with a number of possibles it will too much change at once. Carry on taking it steady and get use to moving your hands on the bars which is one main difference than flat bars.


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

I'd get the bars changed and the extra brake levers fitted asap...you need to be able to stop quickly and confidently and the roads are greasy at the mo  
Shift the seat forward as suggested if you can (check markings on rails). Locked elbows aren't never good. How long is the stem on the bike?


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> I'd get the bars changed and the extra brake levers fitted asap...you need to be able to stop quickly and confidently and the roads are greasy at the mo
> Shift the seat forward as suggested if you can (check markings on rails). Locked elbows aren't never good. How long is the stem on the bike?



Okay - cool.
The stem from middle of the bars to centre of the headset is 11cm


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Okay - cool.
> The stem from middle of the bars to centre of the headset is 11cm


What size is the bike? I’d maybe try a 90mm stem (I use a 100mm stem on a 54cm top tube bike)
Stick a wanted ad for the parts in the classifieds. Someone may well have a stem and bars in the shed


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## LibraRider (12 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> What size is the bike? I’d maybe try a 90mm stem (I use a 100mm stem on a 54cm top tube bike)
> Stick a wanted ad for the parts in the classifieds. Someone may well have a stem and bars in the shed


Good idea! 
The bike is 51cm - medium


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## vickster (12 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Good idea!
> The bike is 51cm - medium


That’s the seat tube If it’s a Carrera ? Do you know the crossbar and other measurents?


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## 12boy (13 Feb 2020)

The brakes on drop bars can be a problem insofar as many folks habitually ride with their hands on top of the brake levers and find when down on the drops they can't work the brakes as they should. Getting 40 cm bars and a 90mm stem should help. Switching bars will require removing the tape so I'd delay wrapping the bar tape until I was sure the brakes were in the best position. Going down long hills will exacerbate any difficulties you have squeezing the brake levers so you might try a descent before finalizing placement. Be safe.


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## CXRAndy (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thanks everyone!
> 
> I have managed to find myself a Carrera Virtuoso for a nice price (see pics)
> 
> ...


I would have the stem flipped. The part that holds the handlebars to the forks. This will raise the handlebars a bit. The handlebars and brake lever position looks a little low, so needs adjustment to make you feel more comfortable.

Sore neck, try not to ride craning by looking up. Ride with you looking down a little, but lift your eyes to look through your eyebrows. Do small rides so your body adjust to riding a racer


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## Milkfloat (13 Feb 2020)

If you pay a shop for new bars, inline levers, cables and tape you will be spending far more than you paid for the bike in the first place. For now I would try and get used to what you have with lots of short rides. 

If you truly cannot reach the brake lever right now, then there are two cheap solutions depending on the exact shift model you have. If you are lucky there is a simple allen key adjustment to bring the lever closer, but I suspect that you will need to add some shims inside the lever. If you can find a model number on the shifter somewhere (it will be a bit like ST-2400) and post here we can tell you which you need. Worse case pop to your local bike shop and just ask them, if you need the shims then maybe they will have some floating around and will pop them in for a couple of quid.


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## BigMeatball (13 Feb 2020)

Oh boy, so many extreme and wrong/unnecessary suggestions.

Changing the handlebars into something 2-4cm narrower is unnecessary and a waste of money (IMO even more of a waste of money on an entry-level bike).

Installing inline brake levers is unnecessary AND wrong. Probably the wrongest suggestion I've read on this thread. Avoid this at all costs because it creates the awful habit of having the breaks in that position so you'll never get used to ride on the drops or on top of the shifters. Also if you have inline brakes you'll always be moving your hands around on the handlebar every time you have to brake or shift gears.

Just work with what you have, make adjustments to the bike you have. Get a good bike fit from your local bike shop.

And lastly, embrace being uncomfortable for a little bit. What people keep forgetting is how great a machine the human body is. It adapts to any situation, so if something is uncomfortable and sore, just give it time, your body will take care of it and it will all be fine at the end.


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

I'll just add that I'm coming from the position of being a woman who has developed long term injuries from riding a bike that had bars that were too wide (flat and dropped).

Bike manufacturers fit parts to a bike marketed at men (as opposed to a WSD model) that they think will fit the average man of a given height with wider shoulders, bigger hands, longer torso, narrower sit bones. Thus, as a woman who is actually the same height as the average man (if not a little taller) but has narrower shoulders, a shorter torso relative to legs, smaller hands and wider sit bones, whenever I have bought a built bike I've quickly needed to change some parts.

A good bike fit from a physio will usually cost £100+ Plus the cost of the parts they suggest changing to make the bike fit the OPs anatomy. I've had three and every one has confirmed my choice of stem and handlebar size fitted to 'mens' framesets.

I like cross levers, I can brake from the drops but like most riders I'm mostly on the hoods, I can brake from these too but if I have to brake a lot (as I do, much of my riding in in built up areas), my hands can start to ache (I have joint issues too which don't help). The brake levers on the tops also give me a more upright position when in traffic, when filtering and the they stop the bikes as well as the brifters 

My other female riding friends like to have these too for the same reasons.

I choose SRAM shifters as the shape suits my smaller hands better than the more chunky bulbous Shimano equivalents. I've done around 12000 miles if not more on the various bikes I have, they all have parts in the size I know that suit me 

The parts and fitting might cost a few quid but less than long courses of physio to correct injuries from having a bike that fits poorly 

And they're brakes!!  Even the Americans know how to spell it correctly!


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## Spiderweb (13 Feb 2020)

As above, you’ve not ridden a road bike before, the riding position for you will not be natural. I had a similar issue years ago moving from mountain biking to a road bike. Give it at least a dozen rides of the distance you have been doing, you may be fine with the set up you have or you may need the changes @vickster mentioned but give it a try first.


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## LibraRider (13 Feb 2020)

I was riding with my hands primarily on the shifters - so maybe the Shimano shifters are too big for me and I need to get a smaller set that are less bulky - like @vickster mentioned?


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## Pale Rider (13 Feb 2020)

I agree it's a bit early in your road bike riding career for modifications.

But if you want to do something, a shorter stem, maybe with an upward angle could unlock your elbows.

Simple to do and need not cost a lot.

The brifters being too big may be a harder problem to solve, and won't be cheap.

They are all fairly large because they contain both the brake and gear changing mechanisms.

As a start, you could have a look around a bike shop to see if there are any brifters that you think would suit you better.


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I was riding with my hands primarily on the shifters - so maybe the Shimano shifters are too big for me and I need to get a smaller set that are less bulky - like @vickster mentioned?


Just get the extra levers. £20
New shifters etc could be 10x that


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

Pale Rider said:


> I agree it's a bit early in your road bike riding career for modifications.
> 
> But if you want to do something, a shorter stem, maybe with an upward angle could unlock your elbows.
> 
> ...


SRAM manage rather better than Shimano...Shimano Dura Ace are nice and slim but silly money. Entry level Shimano are just chunky! (even 105 are compared to equivalent SRAM Rival)


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## nickAKA (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I was riding with my hands primarily on the shifters - so maybe the Shimano shifters are too big for me and I need to get a smaller set that are less bulky - like @vickster mentioned?



It's mainly a case of getting used to it, you learn to anticipate & shift your hands to get the braking performance you require; general riding, a 'feather' with 3 fingers whilst riding on the hoods is enough to slow you down. If you need to stop quickly, shift (one hand at a time) into the 'drops' so you can lever the brakes on with more force. Seems like a lot to take into consideration but it does become second nature with practice. I've got relatively small hands (for a bloke) and have thus far managed to stop whenever I've needed to 
Inline brakes are a good idea if you don't feel safe and want to ride more upright. I've got an 80mm stem sat on the desk in the mancave if you're struggling with reach, I bought it cos my back was screwed and it definitely helped, back on a 100mm stem now so it's doing nothing. If you want to try narrower bars and any other bits put an ad up in'wanted', most of us have got stuff kicking around we bought and no longer want/require, you'll find most people will want to help - we've all been where you are.


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

nickAKA said:


> It's mainly a case of getting used to it, you learn to anticipate & shift your hands to get the braking performance you require; general riding, a 'feather' with 3 fingers whilst riding on the hoods is enough to slow you down. If you need to stop quickly, shift (one hand at a time) into the 'drops' so you can lever the brakes on with more force. Seems like a lot to take into consideration but it does become second nature with practice. I've got relatively small hands (for a bloke) and have thus far managed to stop whenever I've needed to


I've done lots of riding, it's not a matter of practice. I have a bar/shifter/brake set up now that suits me perfectly  It's just not available off the peg especially on a budget bike


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## BrumJim (13 Feb 2020)

If you want some adjustments and good general advice, pop down to Birmingham Bike Foundry in Stirchley and they can help you out. Nancy will be able to give you good female advice if she is around. Prices are exceptionally good there too.


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## 12boy (13 Feb 2020)

Of course we Americans can spell brekas. We invented them along with the bycicel. Seriously, flipping the stem is very easy and usually all the bolts require the same Allen wrench. It's also fairly easy to loosen your saddle and push it forward if there is room to do so. If those changes make braking easier but you feel you are sitting too far forward you can consider a shorter stem or one that holds the bars higher. I have have to disagree with the "just get used to it approach" although it is true that drop bars intrinsically do require very different posture when riding in the drops and it isn't for everyone. That's why there are road bikes being made with flat bars. Aside from comfort, you really need to be able to use your brakes instantly and forcefully.


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## Racing roadkill (13 Feb 2020)

carlosfandangus said:


> After reading your recommendation for the Aldi lights (Racing roadkill) I bought two sets, the free postage made sense to buy two, I normally use Hope R2 front and Hope district rear for winter commutes, however not commuting at the moment, so the Aldi one was bought to keep on the bars, side by side test the hopes won, however on full power the Aldi was close, and certainly good enough for unlit country roads, great light set and a bargain price, the rear is good too


I’ve used them in the middle of the night, in foggy January, on an unlit New Forest road, and managed to see the donkeys, and cows quite easily. The pigs are still a bit of a bugger to see, but they make grunting noises, so it’s not all bad.


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## Racing roadkill (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Does your rear light or either of them flash? I can’t figure out how to make mine flash lol


Yep, turn them on, then you press the button twice in quick succession to get the flash mode activated, then a further set of single presses for each of the power levels, up to the ‘migraine inducing’ strobe mode on the front lights. With the rear, again hold the button down until the light comes on, and double press the button to switch between solid and flash modes, and single presses for increasing power modes.


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

BrumJim said:


> If you want some adjustments and good general advice, pop down to Birmingham Bike Foundry in Stirchley and they can help you out. Nancy will be able to give you good female advice if she is around. Prices are exceptionally good there too.


This is an excellent suggestion


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## Reynard (13 Feb 2020)

I ride junior bikes as I'm somewhat undertall. Unlike @vickster I don't have the problems she has, as the bikes and the components are just right for someone my 4ft 11 frame. Except the saddles, but that's not relevant here.

If you're finding that the brifters that come with the bike are too big, there are other alternatives to the ones suggested that *won't* break the bank - my roadie has Microshift ones (bike runs 2 x 8 Shimano Claris gearing) which fit really well for those of us with smaller hands. Can't remember exactly which ones are fitted, but I can look them up for you if you want.

But unlike @vickster I do most of my road bike riding on rural roads, so don't feel the need to fit cross-top brake levers. For me, they'd be more of a hindrance than a help, as any urban riding that I do, I will tend to take the hybrid as a) I prefer the more upright position for riding in traffic and b) I need the luggage capacity.

Moral of this is what works for one person may not necessarily work for another. And as you're a newbie, please get used to riding the bike first before making any sort of changes. Else you may well be throwing money away unnecessarily - especially since IIRC you are on a fairly limited budget.


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## BSOh (13 Feb 2020)

Reynard said:


> I ride junior bikes as I'm somewhat undertall. Unlike @vickster I don't have the problems she has, as the bikes and the components are just right for someone my 4ft 11 frame. Except the saddles, but that's not relevant here.
> 
> If you're finding that the brifters that come with the bike are too big, there are other alternatives to the ones suggested that *won't* break the bank - my roadie has Microshift ones (bike runs 2 x 8 Shimano Claris gearing) which fit really well for those of us with smaller hands. Can't remember exactly which ones are fitted, but I can look them up for you if you want.
> 
> ...




Same as me, I had Microshift shifters on the junior cross bike I bought (also a shorty at not quite 5'1"), 9 speed triple I think. Not flashy or expensive but did the job.


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## LibraRider (13 Feb 2020)

Reynard said:


> I ride junior bikes as I'm somewhat undertall. Unlike @vickster I don't have the problems she has, as the bikes and the components are just right for someone my 4ft 11 frame. Except the saddles, but that's not relevant here.
> 
> If you're finding that the brifters that come with the bike are too big, there are other alternatives to the ones suggested that *won't* break the bank - my roadie has Microshift ones (bike runs 2 x 8 Shimano Claris gearing) which fit really well for those of us with smaller hands. Can't remember exactly which ones are fitted, but I can look them up for you if you want.
> 
> ...


I have been looking at the microshift shifters. Which ones do you have if you don’t mind?

I just can’t see past the £50+ each!

I only spent £150 on the bike!

tempted to flog it and buy a womens bike now 😞 very disappointed


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## 13 rider (13 Feb 2020)

Don't be disappointed ,give it some time try another ride . I would ring the Bike foundary as mentioned up thread have a chat about your issues and see what they say . They may be able to help for a reasonable amount . All the advice you get on here is well meaning but can be very confusing to a beginner.


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## I like Skol (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> tempted to flog it and buy a womens bike now 😞 very disappointed


L.R, maybe you are going too quick too soon? If I were in your situation I would be concentrating on getting the hybrid set up as well as possible and working on my fitness. It's not about the bike particularly and you just need to get comfortable.
Not sure if I have mentioned this but until recently my favourite and most used bike was a hybrid. I had an excellent, expensive road bike and a superb mountain bike to choose from as well as the hybrid but would nearly always use the hybrid because it was the most versatile thanks to its panniers and mudguards and was also comfortable and capable of eating up the miles. I did many 100 mile rides on this bike and even chose this bike for my biggest ever ride of 185 miles in a day.
Maybe let the roadbike go and focus on the hybrid. Roadbikes can be a bit marmite for some people and are not always easy to live with or get used to (took me a couple of years to really get it and even now I could take it or leave it if I could have found a suitable hybrid to replace the last one).


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## HobbesOnTour (13 Feb 2020)

I understand your disappointment. It's incredibly frustrating when we buy something that we think will be better, but it turns out to be more difficult than we thought.

I don't mean to be flippant or lighthearted, but you have a simple solution - your hybrid.
At this time of the year the more upright style, the wider tyres and it's comfort/ease of use make it eminently more practical for a beginner.

When the days are brighter, longer, safer and you have built up a library of nice routes to cycle then you can have another go at the new bike.

There's no doubt that some of the discomfort is simply due to the different position on the bike. It's quite possible that minimal changes (if any) will be needed.

In the meantime, try to concentrate on enjoying the cycling that you do. Everything else will fall into place.

It's far, far more important to have a good attitude than a "good" bike. Surely the fact that the one you bought had such little mileage is proof of that? Try to concentrate on keeping your positive attitude.

Oh, and have someone look at the gears if they're not shifting smoothly. They can be very finnicky when you aren't sure exactly what you're doing.

Best of luck!


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## 12boy (13 Feb 2020)

Of the 6 bikes I keep in my bike sheds adjacent to my house, my favorite 2 are my Surly Steamroller, which is sometimes a single speed and other times sports a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub, and my Brompton. Not the fastest but the funnest. I didn't want to disparage your road bike, but with the right tires the hybrid won't be much slower, and most importantly, fits you comfortably. Furthermore, there are lots of drop type bars made for mtn bikes that would allow you to adapt to drop bars. Just sayin.


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

Reynard said:


> I ride junior bikes as I'm somewhat undertall. Unlike @vickster I don't have the problems she has, as the bikes and the components are just right for someone my 4ft 11 frame. Except the saddles, but that's not relevant here.
> 
> If you're finding that the brifters that come with the bike are too big, there are other alternatives to the ones suggested that *won't* break the bank - my roadie has Microshift ones (bike runs 2 x 8 Shimano Claris gearing) which fit really well for those of us with smaller hands. Can't remember exactly which ones are fitted, but I can look them up for you if you want.
> 
> ...


I don't have any flat bar bikes now, however 4 of my 5 roadbikes have a rack and cross levers


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## LibraRider (13 Feb 2020)

BrumJim said:


> If you want some adjustments and good general advice, pop down to Birmingham Bike Foundry in Stirchley and they can help you out. Nancy will be able to give you good female advice if she is around. Prices are exceptionally good there too.


Thanks for this.
I have contacted them and am going to take it in maybe Saturday afternoon to see what they think.


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## Reynard (13 Feb 2020)

I like Skol said:


> L.R, maybe you are going too quick too soon? If I were in your situation I would be concentrating on getting the hybrid set up as well as possible and working on my fitness. It's not about the bike particularly and you just need to get comfortable.
> Not sure if I have mentioned this but until recently my favourite and most used bike was a hybrid. I had an excellent, expensive road bike and a superb mountain bike to choose from as well as the hybrid but would nearly always use the hybrid because it was the most versatile thanks to its panniers and mudguards and was also comfortable and capable of eating up the miles. I did many 100 mile rides on this bike and even chose this bike for my biggest ever ride of 185 miles in a day.
> Maybe let the roadbike go and focus on the hybrid. Roadbikes can be a bit marmite for some people and are not always easy to live with or get used to (took me a couple of years to really get it and even now I could take it or leave it if I could have found a suitable hybrid to replace the last one).



@I like Skol has hit the nail on the head, methinks...

I love my road bike, but my go-to bike is my hybrid, whether that's for bimbling, shopping or touring. Just ride the hybrid, get fit, and then when the weather is a bit less crappy, take out the roadie and have a play. A ladies' specific bike won't solve anything as such - it's just getting a bike that fits. At the end of the day, the main difference is (mainly) just a paint job...

Anyways, here's my hybrid - I took it down to Hampshire last summer and rode a 30k along the Itchen valley. Not a long ride, but a hilly one. Or, as in this pic, I went to visit a friend who lives 11 miles away. Took the long way home that day and rode 27 miles on a beautiful August day. Bike is a Wiggins Chartres 26, a lovely thing to ride, but far too small for you xxx


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## vickster (13 Feb 2020)

Reynard said:


> @I like Skol has hit the nail on the head, methinks...
> 
> I love my road bike, but my go-to bike is my hybrid, whether that's for bimbling, shopping or touring. Just ride the hybrid, get fit, and then when the weather is a bit less crappy, take out the roadie and have a play. A ladies' specific bike won't solve anything as such -* it's just getting a bike that fits. *At the end of the day, the main difference is (mainly) just a paint job...


Indeed this. If the frame is the right size, it can be adjusted as suggested. None of my bikes have a 'women's frameset but the parts mean they fit better to my frame which has different proportions to that what bike manufacturers seem to think would be typical for Mr Average 5'10


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## I like Skol (13 Feb 2020)

I miss my GT hybrid 

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/2...id-any-reviews-experience.66029/#post-1231970
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/post-ride-wash.197212/page-2#post-4190571


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## CXRAndy (13 Feb 2020)

@LibraRider 

If you're willing to post a picture if yourself sat on your racer with this leg and hand position (see image). We can collectively see if the bike and or your position is compromised

You could blur the image


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## LibraRider (13 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> @LibraRider
> 
> If you're willing to post a picture if yourself sat on your racer with this leg and hand position (see image). We can collectively see if the bike and or your position is compromised
> 
> ...


Haha - I will do my best. But I certainly don’t look like that  

if that’s the positioning that I’m supposed to have - then there is definitely something not right

I’ll try get one took tomorrow


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## I like Skol (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> But I certainly don’t look like that


It's ok, neither do we......


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## Reynard (13 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I have been looking at the microshift shifters. Which ones do you have if you don’t mind?
> 
> I just can’t see past the £50+ each!



I have the short reach version of the R8 shifters i.e. SB-R482(S) on my road bike, but then I'm only 4ft 11 and have very small hands. 

https://www.microshift.com/en/product/sb-r482/

If you shop around, they can be had cheaper than £100 for a set.


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## cyberknight (13 Feb 2020)

Google jimlangley bike fit


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## 12boy (13 Feb 2020)

All my bikes are semi flat bar insofar as they have either moustache, North Road or Milan bars flipped for that path racer vibe. Even my Brompton. I've tried flats, risers, bar ends, drops and bullhorns and I ride further with less discomfort with the bars I use. But, hey, we are all different.


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## CXRAndy (14 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Haha - I will do my best. But I certainly don’t look like that
> 
> if that’s the positioning that I’m supposed to have - then there is definitely something not right
> 
> I’ll try get one took tomorrow



Approximately, yes that is the correct position.

Seat height so your leg is nearly straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke. 

Arm position, slightly bent elbows when riding on the hoods, which is mainly where you will ride. 

Back position, in that region, this all depends on individual flexibility and core strength. Some folk can lean further forward and others need a more upright position.


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## Milkfloat (14 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> Back position, in that region, this all depends on individual flexibility and core strength. Some folk can lean further forward and others need a more upright position.



I would have said that the position in the photo is already very upright.


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## BigMeatball (14 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> tempted to flog it and buy a womens bike now 😞 very disappointed



my guess is that womens bikes will have the same shifters/brake levers than the mens model. They're probably different for high level bikes but for entry level they're probably the same because that's how they keep the price down, using same standardised components.

But yeah, go to the guys in Birmingham. 5 minutes with them are worth more than wasting hours reading comments from a bunch of newbies like us here on the forum


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## nickAKA (14 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I have been looking at the microshift shifters. Which ones do you have if you don’t mind?
> 
> I just can’t see past the £50+ each!
> 
> ...



I have no idea what your local (?) bike shop is like (bike foundry?) but if it's anything like mine (John's bikes, round the corner from work FYI ) I'm sure they'll have some more suitable used levers knocking about in the spares box that they'll be happy to repurpose for you. John's place looks like a junk shop, but he does a brilliant job for not much money at all and prefers using the stuff he's hoarded. He'd probably swap a pair of levers part-ex and just charge for fitting.
Extreme example, he swapped the frameset on the wife's bike for me last year - brand new unused framset supplied by him (he had it in the cellar, nothing particularly special but the right size and better than the one it replaced)... had to swap the calipers to long drops, swapped the drivetrain over - total bill was £150. I was struggling to find a reasonable frame for that price on ebay.


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## BrumJim (14 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Thanks for this.
> I have contacted them and am going to take it in maybe Saturday afternoon to see what they think.



If you don't get on there (I hope you will - they are great people), then go on to Ben at Venture Bikes behind Printigo, just up the road towards town (can't miss Printigo - big and bright just before Stirchley Baths community centre).
Both are quiet and unassuming people. Listen and chat.

Part of the problem is that everying is new, and it will take a while to get used to a new bike and position. The road bike geometry is very different to what you are used to, and anything that puts your body into an unusual position will be uncomfortable for a while. It might take a few rides to nail down what the problem is, and what can be done to solve it. At the moment you are in a position where any changes you make will improve things, but what is down to the changes and what is down to your body adjusting is a bit of a mystery. Classic one is the saddle. Your bum will adjust in time to what is fitted. If you get a wonderful new saddle now, and fit an Aldi Gel pad to it, it will be so much better than the last one. But maybe not as good as the last one would have been anyway had you kept it on. On the other hand, being a woman, if you are trying to get comfortable on a men's saddle, it will never fit you well.

In 2011 I started running. Went to a specialist shop, ran on a treadmill, and was prescribed shoes with a bit of support on the inside. Two weeks ago they started to come apart, so bought a new pair. Again, specialist shop, ran on a treadmill - completely different diagnosis, and I am now neutral. Why? I think my body adjusted shortly after I started running, but after I had bought the shoes.

Got your pack for Ride the Reservoir yet?


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## cyberknight (14 Feb 2020)

I like Skol said:


> It's ok, neither do we......


 only at the weekend  
Another option is the many bike fit apps where you measure your relevant bits and it gives you a fit guide . 
Back to my earlier post ( i was at work on phone and i am rubbish at doing links on it ) 
https://jimlangley.net/crank/bikefit.html
and ...
https://wheel-easy.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/bike-set-up-2017a.pdf


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## Racing roadkill (14 Feb 2020)

I’m spending a lot of time (and distance) on my Hybrid at the moment, there’s nothing wrong with sticking with a hybrid ( even for the event ). The drop bar bikes are different in feel to start with, because they are all about positioning, and the positions you can hold on a drop bar, are really quite different to the positions you hold on an upright hybrid. The muscles are worked differently, and different muscles start to be worked on a drop bar bike. You can feel like you’ve put a load more effort in, and gone slower. You probably have, because of the inefficiency that has manifested itself, when you changed to a drop bar bike. Add in the thinner tyres, and you could feel quite beaten up after your first couple of drop bar bike efforts. Stick at it, it does get more comfy with time, as your body adjusts to the demands being put on it.


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## boydj (14 Feb 2020)

Milkfloat said:


> I would have said that the position in the photo is already very upright.



I'd have said that the saddle is touch too high by maybe 5 to 10 mm.


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## LibraRider (24 Feb 2020)

I bought myself an indoor smart trainer for training. Best thing I’ve done so far!
Just cycled 7 and a half miles in 45 mins!! 😆


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## vickster (24 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I bought myself an indoor smart trainer for training. Best thing I’ve done so far!
> Just cycled 7 and a half miles in 45 mins!! 😆


No you didn’t, you didn’t go anywhere 
You spent 45 minutes exercising


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## Grant Fondo (24 Feb 2020)

vickster said:


> No you didn’t, you didn’t go anywhere
> You spent 45 minutes exercising


To be honest i wish i had done the same last few weekends.


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## CXRAndy (26 Feb 2020)

Lets not get into this indoor not counting as miles equivalent. If the wheels turned and the sensors recorded said distance, they pedalled for 7.5 miles

Edit I did a Zwift race last night, it was 15.6 miles in length


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## I like Skol (26 Feb 2020)

Turbo/roller miles don't count!

But they are valuable exercise indicators and can be used as a measure of exercise amount or intensity. This can also be used to track improvements in fitness or increases in stamina


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## mjr (27 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> Lets not get into this indoor not counting as miles equivalent. If the wheels turned and the sensors recorded said distance, they pedalled for 7.5 miles


Things only indoor cyclists say.



> Edit I did a Zwift race last night, it was 15.6 miles in length


Knew it.


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## nickAKA (27 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I bought myself an indoor smart trainer for training. Best thing I’ve done so far!
> Just cycled 7 and a half miles in 45 mins!! 😆



When I kicked off on zwift I was doing about 4 hours a week over winter and getting out when I could. The target was the Manchester to Blackpool ride (& back) in the July which is about 130 miles... I was fit as a butchers dog by the time of the ride, no problems whatsoever with the trip. Keep going, if you can manage 4+ hours a week you'll smash it


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## LibraRider (27 Feb 2020)

LOL if you'd have just done the ride i just did and felt the way i feel now - you'd say it counts!


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## LibraRider (27 Feb 2020)

nickAKA said:


> When I kicked off on zwift I was doing about 4 hours a week over winter and getting out when I could. The target was the Manchester to Blackpool ride (& back) in the July which is about 130 miles... I was fit as a butchers dog by the time of the ride, no problems whatsoever with the trip. Keep going, if you can manage 4+ hours a week you'll smash it



Cheers nick!


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## 13 rider (27 Feb 2020)

Smart trainers are incredibly useful for getting fit and wether the miles count or not dosnt matter . Don't neglect outside riding when you can to improve bike handling and get use to the position on the bike which will be different outside ie having to use the brakes 
Good luck with the training


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## CXRAndy (27 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> Things only indoor cyclists say.
> 
> 
> Knew it.


Ive had a steady start for this year 606 miles or for the pedants 34hrs of indoor training


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## boydj (27 Feb 2020)

I can't do long sessions on the turbo - it's just too boring, so an absolute max is an hour and most sessions are 45 minutes or less (usually less). To make up for this I will do fairly hard intervals to get the most out of the sessions. Hopefully this will maintain a semblance of fitness while we're waiting for the wind, rain, hail and snow to disappear. Can't even get some golf in to break the monotony as the course is covered in snow.


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## CXRAndy (27 Feb 2020)

boydj said:


> I can't do long sessions on the turbo - it's just too boring, so an absolute max is an hour and most sessions are 45 minutes or less (usually less). To make up for this I will do fairly hard intervals to get the most out of the sessions. Hopefully this will maintain a semblance of fitness while we're waiting for the wind, rain, hail and snow to disappear. Can't even get some golf in to break the monotony as the course is covered in snow.



Are you using a simulator like Zwift?


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## DRM (27 Feb 2020)

mjr said:


> Things only indoor cyclists say.
> 
> 
> Knew it.


Cobblers, try doing one of the Many training sessions on Zwift , it is genuinely hard work, on a smart trainer when it wants you doing 350 watts for 10 minutes that’s exactly what you do, there is no freewheeling, no resting, it is hard & you know you’ve put the work in afterwards, so you might not have physically moved but you have certainly pedalled the distance.


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## Kryton521 (28 Feb 2020)

I managed to give up my wnery bar obsession. Hard work but so much the better for it!

For the first few weeks? As others have said, keep it short and build up. I'd say grab a pot of chamois cream, I particularly like the Muc-Off one. Really can take the sting out of the tail! 😊


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## BrumJim (28 Feb 2020)

boydj said:


> I can't do long sessions on the turbo - it's just too boring, so an absolute max is an hour and most sessions are 45 minutes or less (usually less). To make up for this I will do fairly hard intervals to get the most out of the sessions. Hopefully this will maintain a semblance of fitness while we're waiting for the wind, rain, hail and snow to disappear. Can't even get some golf in to break the monotony as the course is covered in snow.


I'm more worried about the temptation to get off. If you plan on a 50 mile ride, when you are 25 miles from home, there is no doubt that you will ride 50 miles. If you plan a 3hr ride, and after 3 hrs you are still 10 miles from home, you still have to complete the distance, come what may. If you are on a turbo, there is just too much temptation to get off at any point. If you really motivate yourself, you can set a time, but the instant the time is reached, I would be off.


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## I like Skol (28 Feb 2020)

DRM said:


> Cobblers, try doing one of the Many training sessions on Zwift , it is genuinely hard work, on a smart trainer when it wants you doing 350 watts for 10 minutes that’s exactly what you do, there is no freewheeling, no resting, it is hard & you know you’ve put the work in afterwards, so you might not have physically moved but you have certainly pedalled the distance.


Nobody is saying it is easy or physically undemanding, just that it doesn't count towards any real world mileage totals, either weekly, monthly or annual. It is still a worthwhile means of exercise and training for those that can't get out to ride or don't want to due to poor weather. I Aldi accept it could be even more effective than outdoors cycling for someone on an intensive structured training program that needs to target specific areas of their fitness.


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## BigMeatball (28 Feb 2020)

I like Skol said:


> Nobody is saying it is easy or physically undemanding, just that it doesn't count towards any real world mileage totals, either weekly, monthly or annual. It is still a worthwhile means of exercise and training for those that can't get out to ride or don't want to due to poor weather. I Aldi accept it could be even more effective than outdoors cycling for someone on an intensive structured training program that needs to target specific areas of their fitness.



100% agree with this view.

If we just look at the very name "smart trainer"...it's a trainer, that's its purpose, to train you and make you fitter and ready for a race. So I don't count the miles made on it towards my yearly total.

Definitely useful for athletes, that's why for example most professional triathletes spend a great chunk of time on their turbos and treadmills and now also they have these endless pools. I don't know what professional cyclists do but I suspect they do a combination of turbo training and open road cycling and it makes sense.

Since starting training for an event, even when the weather was fine I had to opt for indoor training because there are specific goals and targets to hit (wattage, heart rate and so on) that I just cannot hit out on the road.

For now I leave outdoor cycling for when I've got nothing better to do and want to get out of the house


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## CXRAndy (28 Feb 2020)

I dont differentiate between indoor or outdoor, I could use just hours pedalled, no one would quibble the metric.

With accurate direct drive trainers, there ability to also record miles/km is available. 

So seen as most folk use distance on strava as their metric, I do too.

Happy to follow the majority, with hours or miles


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## boydj (28 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> Are you using a simulator like Zwift?



No.

I don't track distance either, but I do record the time in a separate page on my mileage spreadsheet.


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## CXRAndy (29 Feb 2020)

boydj said:


> No.
> 
> I don't track distance either, but I do record the time in a separate page on my mileage spreadsheet.


That's most likely the reason you dont stick at it. 

My first experience was with a spin bike in the front room-watching tv. An hour was my maximum. 

Once you add other riders, the experience changes, immersive. Then there is the racing, this is a massive part of Zwift. 

Im taking part in a Danish race series currently, hard racing- the Danes are immensely strong cycling nation.

Zwift organise mega events where literally thousands of riders start an event, sort of racing sportive.


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## Kryton521 (29 Feb 2020)

Can't afford either zwift or the machines required. All through January I was mostly riding old fashioned rollers. And *counted* the mileage towards my total for the month.

I'd really like a better set of rollers. Make life easier[?] and quieter!


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## CXRAndy (29 Feb 2020)

Kryton521 said:


> Can't afford either zwift or the machines required. All through January I was mostly riding old fashioned rollers. And *counted* the mileage towards my total for the month.
> 
> I'd really like a better set of rollers. Make life easier[?] and quieter!



Fair do's


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## Ming the Merciless (29 Feb 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I bought myself an indoor smart trainer for training. Best thing I’ve done so far!
> Just cycled 7 and a half miles in 45 mins!! 😆



Good for you. You can certainly get some high intensity in on a turbo in a small time window. Hard consistent efforts you’d never manage outside. Don’t neglect outdoor riding as well though. The two complement each other very well.

I tend to use the turbo this way. I get the short hard high intensity efforts done on the turbo then I get the long miles done outside at a low intensity. Does wonders for the fitness.


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## Dogtrousers (29 Feb 2020)

It's a perennial question. As a new user of a turbo I don't look at the distance reading afterwards much because for me riding on the turbo is a completely different experience to riding on the road. I ride on the turbo at way higher intensity (and shorter duration) than I ever ride on the road and do intervals and the like. As I could never transplant that to outside, I don't find the simulated distance very significant. I look at the Watts and wotnot.

Of course, that not to say that mine is the One True Way. Others can do what they like.


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## boydj (29 Feb 2020)

CXRAndy said:


> That's most likely the reason you dont stick at it.
> 
> My first experience was with a spin bike in the front room-watching tv. An hour was my maximum.............
> .........................................................



Who says I don't stick at it? I use my turbo for high intensity sessions to maximise the benefit I get from what is an artificial environment. Zwift and other technology no doubt can enhance the experience, but I don't see a cost-benefit in an investment like that. Useful as Zwift might be, it is still an artificial environment - no wind, rain, dodgy surfaces, or concentration required to sit on a wheel with riders banging elbows. Worse still, where's the cafe stop and the craic?

My racing days were back in the 80's and 90's (running, not cycling) and I'm long past hurting myself to the extent that racing requires. My cycling is used to slow my decline into old age and keep me fit for my golf, where I am competitive.


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## carlosfandangus (1 Mar 2020)

I got on my turbo in the garage yesterday  65/70 mile an hour gusts and driving rain, i only lasted 15 minutes, the rain was coming into the garage from the open door, I had to wear gloves as it was so cold, nearly put glasses on too as I was getting a face full of rain, I was about to close the door (nothing to look at then) I sacked it and had a beer instead


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

So - this morning I completing my first sportive! 
16 miles in 1 hour 45 mins
I met @BrumJim there too at the end!
Great start to serious cycling and I really enjoyed it! 
Bit shakey now though haha


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## 13 rider (15 Mar 2020)

Well done  . Did you get wet ?


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## biggs682 (15 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> So - this morning I completing my first sportive!
> 16 miles in 1 hour 45 mins
> I met @BrumJim there too at the end!
> Great start to serious cycling and I really enjoyed it!
> Bit shakey now though haha



Well done to you @LibraRider 
What have you done re getting comfy on the bike ?


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## BrumJim (15 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> So - this morning I completing my first sportive!
> 16 miles in 1 hour 45 mins
> I met @BrumJim there too at the end!
> Great start to serious cycling and I really enjoyed it!
> Bit shakey now though haha


I'm just annoyed that no one brought ME a bunch of flowers at the finish!


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## BrumJim (15 Mar 2020)

13 rider said:


> Well done  . Did you get wet ?


Yep. Lovely stripe (splodge, more like) up her back, too!


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## 13 rider (15 Mar 2020)

BrumJim said:


> Yep. Lovely stripe (splodge, more like) up her back, too!


Becoming a proper cyclist then


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## cyberknight (15 Mar 2020)

BrumJim said:


> Yep. Lovely stripe (splodge, more like) up her back, too!


mudgaurds , mind you you should have seen my white windproof after the ride today , more like sludgy brown


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## cyberknight (15 Mar 2020)

carlosfandangus said:


> I got on my turbo in the garage yesterday  65/70 mile an hour gusts and driving rain, i only lasted 15 minutes, the rain was coming into the garage from the open door, I had to wear gloves as it was so cold, nearly put glasses on too as I was getting a face full of rain, I was about to close the door (nothing to look at then) I sacked it and had a beer instead


my turbo sesh tends to be half an hour of intervals to you tube work out vids even when its only a couple of degrees i can be dripping with sweat in just my shorts by the end


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

13 rider said:


> Well done  . Did you get wet ?


haha - soaked! 
My cycling gear is going down the in-laws tomorrow to get washed - i haven't got a washing machine at the moment
My poor knees are aching now too


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

BrumJim said:


> I'm just annoyed that no one brought ME a bunch of flowers at the finish!


hahaha

bless her


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> mudgaurds , mind you you should have seen my white windproof after the ride today , more like sludgy brown


I had a little plastic one on my saddle - think i need to invest in some better ones at some point haha


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

biggs682 said:


> Well done to you @LibraRider
> What have you done re getting comfy on the bike ?


I bought a new bike haha!
A fancy ladies fit cube one 
Not looking so fancy at the moment though. 

The carerra has been retired to a perm set up on the turbo trainer


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## biggs682 (15 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I bought a new bike haha!
> A fancy ladies fit cube one
> Not looking so fancy at the moment though.
> 
> The carerra has been retired to a perm set up on the turbo trainer



And i take it you Can you feel the difference


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## cyberknight (15 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I had a little plastic one on my saddle - think i need to invest in some better ones at some point haha


ass saver ? not worth it , im a bit sad and have 2 bikes that have mudgaurds on all year around and a dry weather bike that hasnt seen the outside this year yet .


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

biggs682 said:


> And i take it you Can you feel the difference


Oh yeah! 

Much better for me. 

Ive noticed that on the carrera my feet go numb after a while - which is frustrating

Im guessing that's because the fit on the bike isn't right - but im happy to stick with it for now.


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## biggs682 (15 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Oh yeah!
> 
> Much better for me.
> 
> ...



Well glad your happy and enjoying cycling at last


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## LibraRider (15 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> ass saver ? not worth it , im a bit sad and have 2 bikes that have mudgaurds on all year around and a dry weather bike that hasnt seen the outside this year yet .


Yeah - £2.99 from decathlon
I bought another one today - figure it will do for now for my short distance outdoor cycles to and from work. 
I will get much better ones for my next sportive next month though 

Also bought some over shoes - they were deffo missed today


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## cyberknight (15 Mar 2020)

This is my last Sportive , its me hanging on the back in the yellow 

View: https://vimeo.com/288043614


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## cyberknight (15 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Oh yeah!
> 
> Much better for me.
> 
> ...


have you taken the measurements of your new bike and then transfer them to the carrera ?
seat height from BB taking into account crank length, saddle setback, reach and drop to handlebars ?


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## LibraRider (16 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> have you taken the measurements of your new bike and then transfer them to the carrera ?
> seat height from BB taking into account crank length, saddle setback, reach and drop to handlebars ?


Noo but I do think I need to get a shorter stem and narrower handle bars. Just need to get round to buying them


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## cyberknight (17 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> Noo but I do think I need to get a shorter stem and narrower handle bars. Just need to get round to buying them


Are you using the same pedal and cleats on both?


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## LibraRider (18 Mar 2020)

cyberknight said:


> Are you using the same pedal and cleats on both?


I’m not using cleats yet - I will be this week or next.


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## cyberknight (18 Mar 2020)

LibraRider said:


> I’m not using cleats yet - I will be this week or next.


numb toes are normally caused by flexible shoes that dont support the foot or too tighter a shoe ,small pedal size combined with a flexible shoe or your foot not in the right position or a combination of all 3 
People say mtb spds can cause it but in that case in can be down to poor set up , i use m520s pedals for work but i have decent stiff shoes and my cleat set up is engraved in my mind so i dont have any issues


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