# Touring on a MTB frame



## iLB (24 Aug 2012)

Have you done it? How does it work compared to a road bike geometry ? Is it a good idea?


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## GrumpyGregry (24 Aug 2012)

Done it? Yeah loads back in the days when my rockhopper was the only bike I owned or could afford. Slower going than on a road bike and slick tyres are a must, imo, unless you're going off-road, Loads of folk do it, loads of Amer I Cans wouldn't tour any other way. Heel clearance sometimes a problem with shorter chainstays and large panniers and watch the handling if you move them backwards to suit.


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## iLB (24 Aug 2012)

Interesting, I'm going to Romania for a year starting next month- want to ride over there at some point. Trying to decide between flying and riding the on the first trip...


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## Alan Whicker (24 Aug 2012)

I toured the Lake District about 12 years ago on a Claude Butler (AKA Radford) Xanthos rigid steel MTB. It was very comfy indeed, with relaxed geometry. My mate was with me on a Saracen Rufftrax. It would have been a bit easier rolling without knobbly tyres, but we thought we'd go off road at some point (we didn't in the end).


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## Nigeyy (24 Aug 2012)

I've toured on a couple of mtbs with no ill effect. However, these were older early-mid 1990's bikes with no rear or front suspension, so they had more of a traditional road bike geometry with longer chainstays (as opposed to the newer mtbs now which have geometries that take into account front shocks). I'd certainly not hesitate touring on an old style mtb -no problem. I would not recommend front suspension as it sucks up energy, and certainly much less a full suspension (let alone the problems associated with affixing racks). I currently use my backup tourer (90's Specialized Hotrock) as a commuter bike complete with racks.

So to summarize: yes, it's a good idea if it's an older style mtb with no suspension and a more relaxed geometry, you don't have to spend too much money to get it to where you need it to be, and you don't want to spend the money on a purpose tourer.

Advantages:
-cheap (really cheap to get an old mtb if you keep your eyes open)
-usually an easy way into touring; change the tires and tubes, slap on a rack, and you can be good to go!
-gearing is ready for touring. Mtb gearing is much lower than traditional road gearing, and for touring carrying a big load, that's good!
-some of the brakes on the mtbs were first class (good cantis or v's)
-assuming you use the flatbar or butterflies, no need to change shifters
-assuming you get a good example, the drivechain is inexpensive to replace parts.
-usually tough -remember, these were supposed to be mtbs

Disadvantages:
-not a "proper" touring bike
-may not have touring specific stuff on the frame like spare spoke holders
-if you want to use drops, then the cost of changing over can be expensive (E.g. new bars, new brake levers with possibly new brakes, new shifters, probably a new stem and new front derailleur if you wish to use STI)
-doesn't have higher gearing
-can be heavier
-may need a heavier duty wheelset if you need 36h as most mtbs come with 32h wheelsets.
-may end up spending as much as a proper tourer in an attempt to get it to where you want it to be (don't ask)


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## derrick (24 Aug 2012)

Nothing wrong with touring on a mtb, recently cycled to Amsterdam on one, just put slick tyres on it, really comfy ride.


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## bigtim (24 Aug 2012)

Yes Devon rail trails on a 1990 Kona Lava Dome, 28mm Conti Gatorskins, on skinny Shimano factory wheels with not many spokes and nipples at the hub, very fast as light wheels are what makes any bike climb, accerate or hold top speed. For comfort ergo grips with build in ends are a must to give the hands alternative positions to rest.


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## Crackle (24 Aug 2012)

1993 Marin rigid. Used it for a few small tours recently and it handles it really well. Stays are just long enough to avoid heel strike and it's stable and comfy. It will eventually become a tourer when I finally get a new mtn bike.


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## Sara_H (26 Aug 2012)

Depends on what kind of touring you want to do - I prefer to use the off road paths as much as possible and alot of these can be quite rough in places, so a mountain bike is ideal.

I use a Myka Elite, which I've adapted with a rack and some wide slick marathon tyres. It's slow going, I aim only for 30 - 40 miles a day, but thats the kind of touring that suits me!


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## Ticktockmy (26 Aug 2012)

As Sara_H says it depends what sort of touring you do, I started off touring many years ago using a purpose make touring bike, then I found that when MTB kicked off I converted to using MTB's. Having toured over many miles, in Europe, Africa and Asia using MTB's I feel that for me the MTB is the Bike of choice, currently using one I made up to my own spec which is as follows.

I made my Mountain bike up to so suit my own requirements for pottering around on the trails and byways and also for longhaul touring doing 40-60 Miles per day:
Charge Duster 2010 frame, (has bigger diamenter tubes than the Duster 2011 frame)
RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air 100mm Suspension Fork
Hope Tech X2 Disc Brake front and rear.
Truvativ Noir XC 3.3 Team Triple Chainset.( got it for £90 so could not miss such a good bargain)
Shimano XT M770 Derailleur and levers front and rear..
Race Face Evolve MTB Handlebar
Charge Spoon saddle (result of trying different ones over a few years touring)
Mavic Crossride XC717 front wheeL
Halo SAS Pro 26 Inch Rear Mtb Wheel (heavy wheel but great for when I am touring off road fully laden)
Old man mountain Sherpa racks on the front and rear. (taken off for day to day use)
Current tyres are Schwalbe Marathon XR's for touring otherwise when not set up for touring: I use Panaracer Fire XC Pro's


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## BalkanExpress (27 Aug 2012)

iLB said:


> Have you done it? How does it work compared to a road bike geometry ? Is it a good idea?


 
It's a much better idea than, for example, doing a FNRttC on a BMX

As others have said yes very doable. One thing you would want to look at is hand positions. I would not want to do 1000+ km on just flat bars, bar ends give some variety and others will no doubt have views.


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## fimm (27 Aug 2012)

A friend of mine did an extended tour in south east Asia on a modified mountain bike which seemed to work very well for her.


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## Yellow7 (27 Aug 2012)

My first three tours were on a Raleigh steel frame MTB & my present touring bike frame was designed around that as far as sizing, no suspensiopn on either as more to go wrong, just use a sprung Brooks saddle, I also use euro / touring bars for change in positions. 26" wheels have there advantage in African & Asian countries as standard so easier to get tyres if needed.


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## Crankarm (27 Aug 2012)

I have and am doing it!  Kona Kula hard tail with front suspension locked out most of the time. I am currently riding 60 miles a day to and from work with panniers - rear but can fit fronts if needed. I ride paths, pavements, cycle tracks and the GBW. Frame is super stiff, strong and lite. Tyres are Marathon XRs 1.6 inch. I do have 2 inch wide versions but these are for hard core off road expedition. I was thinking of fitting a solid fork - Surly Troll, but tbh having the facility of a front shock for shocking surfaces is worth having, so haven't. No probs with heal clearance with rear panniers Vaude Aquas. Rack is an uber strong Madison Summit. I have a suspension seat post as well which makes all the difference as does an Airzound. A spoke broke in the wheel of normal commuting bike and my Brompton is off the road. So the MTB it is. HTH.


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## SatNavSaysStraightOn (28 Aug 2012)

Done it, but much prefer my touring bike (Scott Scale 40 verses Thorn Nomad Mk II). Hands were an issue with my left hand going numb but I have a known left wrist issue anyway. travelled with rear panniers and rackpack (dedicated bag across rear panniers than clips onto them) and barbag only. We fitted ergon grips and bar ends to aid comfort. The main problem I came across was wearing everything out so very quickly (we did quite a bit off road - every moving part needed replacing when we returned, but my MTB was never meant to take even a pannier rack so this was not really surprising) and the very many punctures we had, so changing to dedicated touring tyres is a must (my tourer has had 1 visit from a certain fairy in 14,000km, verses my MTB on tour which had 6 I think it was in 1,000km on mtb tyres).


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## jakegil (31 Aug 2012)

I am planning to on my trusty GT Timberline. I don't see any major issues, however I have had to buy new forks to fit front racks on. Gone for some Surly Long Haul Trucker forks but not yet fitted them. So still work in progress. I went for a Tubus Logo rear rack as this has good heal clearance.

http://i1165.photobucket.com/albums/q584/jakegil/5e8d8497.jpg


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## Brains (1 Sep 2012)

My first tours were on a 1990 Dawes MTB which as it was first generation MTB was ideally suited for conversion to a touring bike, I added a rack, mudguards, a speedo, bar ends, an decent saddle a good rack a second bottle holder, semi-slick tyres, Halfords panniers and away you go! 

My wife still tours on a Trek Antelope MTB


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## Gravity Aided (3 Sep 2012)

I used a Trek 930 for a Tourer , very light and nimble,with a high bottom bracket for less than optimum road conditions , and slicks . Sold it to a fellow who wanted it for Winter and off-road touring . Bought a full-on tourer (1987 Schwinn Passage) and I like it a lot better .


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## jakegil (11 Sep 2012)

Still work in progress but she's nearly ready...

http://s1165.photobucket.com/albums/q584/jakegil/?action=view&current=c672aa32.jpg

http://s1165.photobucket.com/albums...584/jakegil/?action=view&current=d9b069d4.jpg


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## JC4LAB (11 Sep 2012)

Awkward aspects are 1.Nobbly tyres that cost you daily milage..so changee them to slick road tyres or a hybrid tyre.. 2The suspension when travelling by road can have you bouncing around....On some MTB you can however lock the suspension with the screw caps on top of the suspensoion arms.


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## jakegil (11 Sep 2012)

And here she is....

http://s1165.photobucket.com/albums/q584/jakegil/?action=view&current=44698eff.jpg


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## Zenroad (13 Sep 2012)

iLB said:


> Have you done it? How does it work compared to a road bike geometry ? Is it a good idea?


 
Yes, it is a good idea. Mountain bikes are great for touring as long as it's a bike that fits you properly and is in good shape and is strong enough to carry your load. I prefer mountain bikes. The degree of feeling vulnerable is much less. If your bike has no braze-ons for racks, check out Freeload racks. These New Zealanders have made braze-ons obsolete! Like Jimmy Buffet said: "So simple, it plum evaded me." Also lots of good tires (slicks, hybrids, whatever you fancy) out there for 26" rims.


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## jakegil (13 Sep 2012)

Zenroad said:


> Yes, it is a good idea. Mountain bikes are great for touring as long as it's a bike that fits you properly and is in good shape and is strong enough to carry your load. I prefer mountain bikes. The degree of feeling vulnerable is much less. If your bike has no braze-ons for racks, check out Freeload racks. These New Zealanders have made braze-ons obsolete! Like Jimmy Buffet said: "So simple, it plum evaded me." Also lots of good tires (slicks, hybrids, whatever you fancy) out there for 26" rims.


Just wondered if you have those Freeload racks? If so how are they? Cheers


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## Zenroad (13 Sep 2012)

jakegil said:


> Just wondered if you have those Freeload racks? If so how are they? Cheers


 
Yes, Jakegil, I do. Fantastic. Love 'em. Those boys have seemingly reinvented the wheel. Check their website. http://www.freeload.co.nz/. I bought a set on Amazon, for less than typical retail. I also got the side frames, which another piece of sheer genius. These racks will accompany me to Japan on 2014.


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## jakegil (13 Sep 2012)

Zenroad said:


> Yes, Jakegil, I do. Fantastic. Love 'em. Those boys have seemingly reinvented the wheel. Check their website. http://www.freeload.co.nz/. I bought a set on Amazon, for less than typical retail. I also got the side frames, which another piece of sheer genius. These racks will accompany me to Japan on 2014.


 
Thanks, i'll look out for some when my braze-ons sheer off!


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## iLB (13 Sep 2012)

I think those guys have been bought out by Thule but it's still a great idea.


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## Zenroad (14 Sep 2012)

Yes, Freeload was recently purchased by Thule, which is a testimony to how good their racks are (or are believed to be). I'm telling myself that the buy-out is a good thing, as Thule is way reputable, but sometimes buy-outs can go the other way. It can be the beginning of the end. For example, when Klein was bought by Trek. Freeload has been around only about a year and half. If you have a chance to see one of their racks in person, you'll see what quality stuff it is. Use one, and you'll be a believer. Their website contains some compelling evidence of how tough they are. Worth browsing and reading. I really like mine. I'm going to strap on a second rack (on the front) for the long haul in 2014.


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## Bodhbh (17 Sep 2012)

I don't think I'd use one of those Freeload racks on a dedicated tourer (i.e. would fit a conventional rack, or make one fit). They do look very handy for swapping around on bikes you might want to up the carrying capacity as and when on tho. The fact they don't care if they're used on the front or back, disc brakes or not, suspension or not etc.


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## DaveFY7 (26 Sep 2012)

I converted an orange P7 MTB into a tourer and find the ruggedness of the bike gives me a lot more offroad capability as well as more comfort. I much prefer it to my Dawes Ultra Galaxy and always turn to the P7 for my longer tours.


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