# MTB Suspension Lockout



## kevin_cambs_uk (17 May 2011)

As I have no experience of MTB in the modern age, I just wondered how the remote lock out of suspension worked, and more importantly, when its locked out how does it not damage things? or am I being a bit stupid, I mean if the rear is locked out, surely something has to absorb the knocks etc, usually the frame, don't it wear something out as moving parts are obstructed to effectively make it not bounce?

Or am I missing the point somewhere?

Many thanks all, I am thinking of getting a MTB and was wondering you see !


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## Ticktockmy (17 May 2011)

kevin_cambs_uk said:


> As I have no experience of MTB in the modern age, I just wondered how the remote lock out of suspension worked, and more importantly, when its locked out how does it not damage things? or am I being a bit stupid, I mean if the rear is locked out, surely something has to absorb the knocks etc, usually the frame, don't it wear something out as moving parts are obstructed to effectively make it not bounce?
> 
> Or am I missing the point somewhere?
> 
> Many thanks all, I am thinking of getting a MTB and was wondering you see !



Most Lockout's with or without the remote, will have a pressure override, so if you drop the front wheel into a pot hole or or hidden hole then it will in most cases override the lockout, so save blowing the seals


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## Bicycle (17 May 2011)

I have only ever ridden and owned hardtails, so I know nothing of rear suspension.

However, lockout on front forks is a wonderful thing.

If you're going over fairly smooth XC-type stuff, you really don't need front suspension. With it locked, the bike turns in better, responds better and is easier to move - much more like a road bike or an old-fashioned MTB.

But... for the bumpy, rocky, tumbly, juddery stuff, you want the forks to be soaking it all up and stopping your forearms getting too pumped.

It's simple to switch over and worth doing for better control, comfort and speed on both (all) types of terrain.

I don't think it does any damage.... I've never thought about it, but on reflection I can't see it being too bad... most of the damage to my MTB is done by mud and grit in the chain and brakes.

Another advantage of lock-out is that it turns a wallowy old whale into a reasonable bike for the road (tarmac).

I hope this helps...


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## blubb (17 May 2011)

On mine it locks the damper. When you apply some weight onto it or use the fork otherwise you will see it slightly going in.

Hard bumps will still be absorbed that way, so i doubt the forces will damage the rest of the components. MTB's are usually build for rough stuff anyway.


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## Zoiders (18 May 2011)

Most lock out's cause hydraulic or pneumatic lock, the same as if you had pumped in too much air or lube, if it was simply mechanical metal on metal things would indeed break.

The worst that can happen should you over cook a drop off or bump with a lock out activated is that you might kill the lockout mech or blow out a seal.


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## pshore (18 May 2011)

Zoiders said:


> Most lock out's cause hydraulic or pneumatic lock, the same as if you had pumped in too much air or lube, if it was simply mechanical metal on metal things would indeed break.
> 
> The worst that can happen should you over cook a drop off or bump with a lock out activated is that you might kill the lockout mech or blow out a seal.



That's jump stylee. 

In a cross country scenario where you reach a rock garden for example, the reality is that you are back to riding a hard tail or pretty rigid bike. You don't often break those because the tyres and your limbs are acting a shock absorbers.

Not all shocks have a 'blow off' feature. My Rebas don't and I wish for it sometimes.

What style of rider are you Kevin ?


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## Zoiders (18 May 2011)

pshore said:


> That's jump stylee.
> 
> In a cross country scenario where you reach a rock garden for example, the reality is that you are back to riding a hard tail or pretty rigid bike. You don't often break those because the tyres and your limbs are acting a shock absorbers.
> 
> ...


Your Rebas don't have a knock open valve for threshold damping is what you mean which is a "blow off" feature, I described how you could actually kill a locked shock that doesn't have one - by damaging a seal or breaking the lock out mech.

XC varies a whole lot and if it errs on the side of all mountain then you are going to encounter the odd bit where you could overcook the lockout.

"Jump stylee" no bugger is going to be fussed about a lock out as you have top pump the bike through the jump using the fork travel.


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## kevin_cambs_uk (18 May 2011)

Thanks for all the answers guys that excellent, cheers


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## Blue Scouser85 (20 May 2011)

I've just bought a 2011 cube acid! And I'm also new to mtb'ing 
I'm similar to Kevin but my question is a tad different! When I put my lockout sus (front forks only) on then apply weight to it, it seems to just have as much give as when the lockout is off? Is that normal or is my bike not been set up correctly by the shop?


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## Cubist (21 May 2011)

Blue Scouser85 said:


> I've just bought a 2011 cube acid! And I'm also new to mtb'ing
> I'm similar to Kevin but my question is a tad different! When I put my lockout sus (front forks only) on then apply weight to it, it seems to just have as much give as when the lockout is off? Is that normal or is my bike not been set up correctly by the shop?


Sounds like one of two possibilities, either that the cable to your poploc needs adjusting, or the lockout cartridge is sticky. Try adjusting the cable first, making sure that when you push the poploc it turns the actuator on the fork leg all the way until it locks. Try turning the actuator by hand first to make sure it does. It's more common for the poploc to fail to unlock to be fair. If adjusting the cable doesn't work, take it back to the shop.


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## Angelfishsolo (21 May 2011)

Had the exact same issue with the 2009 version I borrowed for a few months. Cable to poploc needed to be tightened up a tad.


Cubist said:


> Sounds like one of two possibilities, either that the cable to your poploc needs adjusting, or the lockout cartridge is sticky. Try adjusting the cable first, making sure that when you push the poploc it turns the actuator on the fork leg all the way until it locks. Try turning the actuator by hand first to make sure it does. It's more common for the poploc to fail to unlock to be fair. If adjusting the cable doesn't work, take it back to the shop.


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## Blue Scouser85 (22 May 2011)

Cheers! I tried fidling with cable but had no joy, to be honest I think I was doing it wrong! It's now in the bike shops hands! Fingers crossed it's only a quick repair job and nothing more


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