# Converting hardtail into a commuter



## razer17 (8 Jan 2016)

I've recently bought a new full suspension bike, and I've been wondering what to do with my lovely Bird Zero. At first I considered selling it and keeping my road bike. But I've changed mind, I like that bike too much. So I'm getting rid of the roadie and converting my Zero into a rugged tourer.

Having ridden it to work I already know it's not much slower than my road bike, so i figure if I can drop some weight from it and get slicker tyres, I'll be well set. I'll also want to get a rigid fork.

So the point of the thread is, would this be easy go do? Any pitfalls I'm not thinking of, especially in regards to swapping in a rigid fork? Has anyone else here down something similar? Or do you think I'm going to ruin a good bike?


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## Salar (8 Jan 2016)

Quite easy. I did it to my Kona Hoss. Sold the front suspension fork and fitted a rigid fork from On One. Fitted slicks, changed the pedals added cheap bar ends with ergo grips.
I've still to fit the mudguards, rear rack and stem riser.


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## Drago (8 Jan 2016)

What he said^^^ There are further tweaks depending on your commuting environment, but essentially he's got the recipe sorted.


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## Salar (8 Jan 2016)

Fitting the mudguards, when I get around to it gets rid of the not so good looking gap above the front tyre when fitting suspension corrected rigid forks.

I did re-consider fitting shorter forks but the bike is nice and responsive as shown, shorter forks would have thrown the geometry out.


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## speccy1 (8 Jan 2016)

Salar said:


> Quite easy. I did it to my Kona Hoss. Sold the front suspension fork and fitted a rigid fork from On One. Fitted slicks, changed the pedals added cheap bar ends with ergo grips.
> I've still to fit the mudguards, rear rack and stem riser.


What tyres are you using there? Look like Specialized summat or other.

I`m going to do exactly the same to my Cube hardtail. How much were the rigid forks? If you don`t mind me asking................


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## potsy (8 Jan 2016)

User28511 said:


> I've recently bought a new full suspension bike, and I've been wondering what to do with my lovely Bird Zero. At first I considered selling it and keeping my road bike. But I've changed mind, I like that bike too much. So I'm getting rid of the roadie and converting my Zero into a rugged tourer.
> 
> Having ridden it to work I already know it's not much slower than my road bike, so i figure if I can drop some weight from it and get slicker tyres, I'll be well set. I'll also want to get a rigid fork.
> 
> So the point of the thread is, would this be easy go do? Any pitfalls I'm not thinking of, especially in regards to swapping in a rigid fork? Has anyone else here down something similar? Or do you think I'm going to ruin a good bike?


Might be worth just locking the front forks if you can, that and slick tyres should make quite a difference on road.


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## Salar (8 Jan 2016)

speccy1 said:


> What tyres are you using there? Look like Specialized summat or other.
> 
> I`m going to do exactly the same to my Cube hardtail. How much were the rigid forks? If you don`t mind me asking................



Tyres are Specialized 26x1.5 Nimbus. I paid approx £70 for the forks a few years ago, but they are now done to £50 at On One.

You'll probably also need Shimano disc brake fork adapters to mount your disc brakes, depending on which brakes you have.


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## speccy1 (8 Jan 2016)

Salar said:


> Tyres are Specialized 26x1.5 Nimbus. I paid approx £70 for the forks a few years ago, but they are now done to £50 at On One.
> 
> You'll probably also need Shimano disc brake fork adapters to mount your disc brakes, depending on which brakes you have.


 Thanks

Yes I do have Shimano hydraulic disks so will bear that in mind, that`s a good price too


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## OskarTennisChampion (8 Jan 2016)

I really really.......really would not like to see an aggressive HT as anything other than killing the trails on one.
So yes,you will kill a great trail bike


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## Levo-Lon (8 Jan 2016)

Make sure you get a ridgid fork that is about where the bike sits with sag if poss..

to short..very twitchy..to long and it will feel vague..
if you suspension fork is a 'say '140mm try and get a 120mm ridgid..and a 100mm if its 120mm
Bike will ride at optimum height
only my 2p


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## razer17 (8 Jan 2016)

potsy said:


> Might be worth just locking the front forks if you can, that and slick tyres should make quite a difference on road.


Going rigid would drop nearly a kilo of weight, plus it would make maintenance a lot easier, and reduce the risk of mechanical failures. 


OskarTennisChampion said:


> I really really.......really would not like to see an aggressive HT as anything other than killing the trails on one.
> So yes,you will kill a great trail bike


On the other hand, my other options are letting it gather dust in my house, which is surely a sadder fate, or selling it on. 


meta lon said:


> Make sure you get a ridgid fork that is about where the bike sits with sag if poss..
> 
> to short..very twitchy..to long and it will feel vague..
> if you suspension fork is a 'say '140mm try and get a 120mm ridgid..and a 100mm if its 120mm
> ...


 Yeah I was wondering what size fork I should get. How easy is it to replace a fork?


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## OskarTennisChampion (8 Jan 2016)

User28511 said:


> On the other hand, my other options are letting it gather dust in my house, which is surely a sadder fate, or selling it on.



Well,you did ask 
And yes,a bike hanging around not getting used is wrong,especially when someone else can enjoy it immensely.


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## razer17 (8 Jan 2016)

OskarTennisChampion said:


> Well,you did ask
> And yes,a bike hanging around not getting used is wrong,especially when someone else can enjoy it immensely.


That's true . I guess seeing it used as a trail bike by someone else would be good too, but I'd probably want to sell it for more than anyone would pay because I do still like the bike. 

Plus I'd still want to get rid of my roady, so if I did sell on the Bird and the road bike, I'd need to buy another bike again.


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## Levo-Lon (9 Jan 2016)

Pretty easy to do a fork change ,check you tube for a vid.
hopfully you have the easy type with sealed bearings and the cut bottom race bearing guide.

you may well need to cut the steerer tube But check your happy first..


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## Salar (9 Jan 2016)

Straight forward to change a fork. Just make sure you measure steerer tube twice and cut once 
A pipe cutter is ideal, but mine only literally scratched the surface on the steel steerer so I just marked the steerer all around and used masking tape as a guide and carefully used a fine hacksaw.


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## mrbikerboy73 (9 Jan 2016)

Sell the Zero to someone who would use it for its intended purpose, then go and buy a more suitable bike with the money!


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## Pale Rider (9 Jan 2016)

The OP wants a 'heavy duty tourer'.

The Bird is certainly heavy duty, but in all other respects is not a good prospect for conversion.

No easy means of mounting a carrier, mudguards, and no bottle cage mounts that I can see - the triangle may be too small.

All of this can be sorted one way or another, but it's going to be a p-clip and zip tie fest.

I doubt the near downhill geometry would be comfortable for long hours at a steady touring pace.

Then there's the gearing.

One or 2 X 10 is a lot less than ideal for touring.

A mountain triple is what's required, which may - or may not - be simple to fit on the Bird.

Many more cross-country orientated mountain bikes are good candidates for conversion.

My Cannondale SL1 has two bottle cage mounts, bosses for mudguards and a carrier, and a mountain triple which gives sufficiently wide gearing.

Even then, I think most riders would want the bars higher for comfortable touring - I've already chopped the ridiculous width.

At least that only leaves one thing to tinker with.


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## Salar (9 Jan 2016)

Good points. I've got mounts, bosses for most of my bits on my Hoss, as said the bars may need to be raised (still to do mine)


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## razer17 (10 Jan 2016)

Pale Rider said:


> The OP wants a 'heavy duty tourer'.
> 
> The Bird is certainly heavy duty, but in all other respects is not a good prospect for conversion.
> 
> .


Nah, not a tourer. No paniers or racks. Some mudguards are about the closest I'll get a to a tourer. Also, I'm just between sizes, so the L frame I have isn't actually as long as perhaps it might be. And the head angle is 69 degrees, so it's not that slack either. Ride to work is only 5 miles


mrbikerboy73 said:


> Sell the Zero to someone who would use it for its intended purpose, then go and buy a more suitable bike with the money!



But real commuters are heavy and they all look so boring comparatively. And I'd lose quite a lot of money I would imagine.


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## OskarTennisChampion (10 Jan 2016)

Unfortunately that's just the nature of selling on bikes.
No one knows how much you have spent making it in to a worthy bike,and frankly they don't care.
All they want is a bargain,so if you were to ask for more or less what you paid for it,it would bomb.
And you would have to drop the price eventually,as per what I see with bikes on eBay.
They try and recoup the money they have spent on it,and ask for what they paid for it.They end up dropping it £100,then another £100 until it does seem like a bargain

So,all that said,I think you should keep it and stick some mud guards on it.
Because I think you would be disappointed not only with parting with it,but the price in which you did.
Been there with a Titanium bike,when I had to sell it for £375 under the asking price.
Another idea would be to break it down and sell it as parts,maybe a better way to get your money back


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## Pale Rider (10 Jan 2016)

User28511 said:


> Nah, not a tourer. No paniers or racks. Some mudguards are about the closest I'll get a to a tourer. Also, I'm just between sizes, so the L frame I have isn't actually as long as perhaps it might be. And the head angle is 69 degrees, so it's not that slack either. Ride to work is only 5 miles
> 
> 
> But real commuters are heavy and they all look so boring comparatively. And I'd lose quite a lot of money I would imagine.



Ah, you did say 'rugged tourer' in your OP.

A five mile commute is a fish of a very different flavour.

For that, I wouldn't even bother changing the Zero's tyres until you've worn them out.


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## razer17 (10 Jan 2016)

Pale Rider said:


> Ah, you did say 'rugged tourer' in your OP.
> 
> A five mile commute is a fish of a very different flavour.
> 
> For that, I wouldn't even bother changing the Zero's tyres until you've worn them out.


I'll end up doing more than 5 mile rides, but not any fully loaded epics. 

As for the tyres, they're going onto my full suspension bike, because the original tyres on that bike aren't the best.


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## PlymSlimCyclist (11 Jan 2016)

I ride my MTB as a commuter.
I've lockable forks, so they're permanently locked.
I've kitted it out with a rear rack, mudguards, and SPD pedals.

It's the only thing I've done to it, bar changing the tyres for originally Conti TourRides to SportContact tyres.

The TourRides are a great tyre, but the Sport Contacts are considerably faster for my commute.

My commute is pretty much hills and all road, such is the life of a Plymouthian though.

Just do what you feel right, but I do think locking or changing your forks if they can't lock, is a good way forward.


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## Jody (12 Jan 2016)

Why not just throw a set of slicks on the Bird and use as is? No drastic changes, you get to keep her incase you want a spin off-road and won't limit your market if you come to sell.

Other than that I agree with Mr Biker Boy that its a waste of a good bike turning it into a commuter just to be different.


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## razer17 (12 Jan 2016)

Jody said:


> Why not just throw a set of slicks on the Bird and use as is? No drastic changes, you get to keep her incase you want a spin off-road and won't limit your market if you come to sell.
> 
> Other than that I agree with Mr Biker Boy that its a waste of a good bike turning it into a commuter just to be different.


I've bought some Marathon Pros, so I'm gonna stick them on and ride it as is. Lock the firm and hopefully it'll be quick enough.


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## Levo-Lon (15 Jan 2016)

OskarTennisChampion said:


> Unfortunately that's just the nature of selling on bikes.
> No one knows how much you have spent making it in to a worthy bike,and frankly they don't care.
> All they want is a bargain,so if you were to ask for more or less what you paid for it,it would bomb.
> And you would have to drop the price eventually,as per what I see with bikes on eBay.
> ...



yep..i sold my Orange crush 1300 quid to buy the frame and build..for about 350..
i couldn't be bothered to ebay all the bits..but i would have got nearer 500 i guess


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## raleighnut (15 Jan 2016)

You can still off-road a rigid fork bike, just 'go light' over the bumpy stuff.


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## OskarTennisChampion (15 Jan 2016)

meta lon said:


> yep..i sold my Orange crush 1300 quid to buy the frame and build..for about 350..
> i couldn't be bothered to ebay all the bits..but i would have got nearer 500 i guess



Incidentally @meta lon ,did you sell your Commencal,or were you just pondering it ?.
Having had a look at it,I personally wouldn't,as it looks like it has been built with a Do It All in mind.
But I know what it's like when you see something shinier later


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## Salar (15 Jan 2016)

raleighnut said:


> You can still off-road a rigid fork bike, just 'go light' over the bumpy stuff.



That's all we had in the 80's and 90's I used to ride the trails in south Wales on rigid fork Marins and Konas.


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## Drago (15 Jan 2016)

Some of us still enjoy a trail thrash on our 1990s rigids.


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## OskarTennisChampion (15 Jan 2016)

I would love to get a hold of a good example '92 Bear Valley SE.
My first off roader,and bring it into the 21st century.
It would have its limits though,in terms of what modern gadgetry you put on it.
Be good to try anyway


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## Levo-Lon (15 Jan 2016)

OskarTennisChampion said:


> Incidentally @meta lon ,did you sell your Commencal,or were you just pondering it ?.
> Having had a look at it,I personally wouldn't,as it looks like it has been built with a Do It All in mind.
> But I know what it's like when you see something shinier later



Been using it all the time while waiting for the stealth seat post to come back for my cube..
the commi is a great XC bike with 2x10..ill no doubt keep it as i paid 1800 for it ,half crc rrp in 2013. it was voted bike of the year in 2012..but the new bike is much better..but for different reasons


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## OskarTennisChampion (15 Jan 2016)

Cube ?
Tell me more


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## Levo-Lon (15 Jan 2016)

OskarTennisChampion said:


> Cube ?
> Tell me more



hpc R brilliant bike and only 11.8kg 140mm


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## Jody (15 Jan 2016)

Nice push iron Meta!


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## fossyant (15 Jan 2016)

Jody said:


> Nice push iron Meta!



Not much Iron/metal in that one !


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## OskarTennisChampion (15 Jan 2016)

meta lon said:


> hpc R brilliant bike and only 11.8kg 140mm
> 
> 
> View attachment 115960



I am loving that 
The Turbines and the DT's are so choice.
Looking good my man,looking good


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## Jody (15 Jan 2016)

fossyant said:


> Not much Iron/metal in that one !



Should probably stop calling them push irons now. Makes me sound like I am of the age where a radio is still a "wireless".

Meta - Whats the bit above your front chain guide?


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## Levo-Lon (15 Jan 2016)

Direct mount xcx chain guide @Jody its where the front mech would bolt to if i make it 2x11 etc
Ive removed it for winter as its a narrow wide front and it gets clogged up where i often go..
see pic ..after its removed.

lm 50 Jody..its a push bike to me too lol


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## fossyant (15 Jan 2016)

Mud


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## Levo-Lon (15 Jan 2016)

fossyant said:


> Mud



i know..breaks my heart.. check the rear mech out lol


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## razer17 (17 Jan 2016)

Having an absolute nightmare with these new Marathon Plus tyres. Couldn't get them to inflate tubeless, and I went through two inners trying to sort them. I don't know if the tubes are too big or what.


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## Levo-Lon (17 Jan 2016)

You will need 1.5 inners not 2.2's.


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## razer17 (17 Jan 2016)

meta lon said:


> You will need 1.5 inners not 2.2's.


Yeah I figured as much, but the smallest 650b inner found is a 1.75-2.1" tube. I might try getting new tubeless rim tape and trying tubeless again. 

Will go back my old tyres for a short while, need to use my push bike as my motorbike on icy roads is terrifying.


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## Levo-Lon (17 Jan 2016)

You might get tubeless to work with a air line..pita with a track pump..


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## Motozulu (19 Jan 2016)

This is a travesty! you've only had it 5 minutes!

Personally - I need/like the HT/FS combo. Wales=FS, days out locally at Cannock=Bird. It's your choice though, but to not hammer the Zero around trail centres is a shame, the bike was born to it. For a 5 mile commute I would'nt change anything on it either - MTB tyre drag? gets you fitter.


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## OskarTennisChampion (19 Jan 2016)

See what you've started @User28511 ?


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## razer17 (20 Jan 2016)

Motozulu said:


> This is a travesty! you've only had it 5 minutes!
> 
> Personally - I need/like the HT/FS combo. Wales=FS, days out locally at Cannock=Bird. It's your choice though, but to not hammer the Zero around trail centres is a shame, the bike was born to it. For a 5 mile commute I would'nt change anything on it either - MTB tyre drag? gets you fitter.





OskarTennisChampion said:


> See what you've started @User28511 ?


I've basically changed my mind anyway. I'm putting slick tyres on them, but ill have tyres to stick on it if I want to take it somewhere muddy.


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