# GT Aggressor 2009 or Kona Lanai 2009?



## Riverman (22 Sep 2009)

I'm sorry to make one of these topics as I know you get a lot of them.

I have this thing for mountain bikes, I don't use them off road but feel more comfortable on them on the road than a hyrbid.

I have the choice of these two, which one do you think is the better bike?

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/product/2861/Kona_Lanai_2009

http://www.bikepedia.com/QUICKBIKE/BikeSpecs.aspx?Year=2009&Brand=GT&Model=Aggressor&Type=bike

Many thanks.

e2a: I should probably mention the Kona costs £10 more.


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## colinr (22 Sep 2009)

I don't know the bikes, only that people seem to like the Aggressor.
In case you're not aware, they're heavily discounted here: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=41065


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## Riverman (22 Sep 2009)

Yep well aware of that. Basically I've ordered the Kona for £189 but will cancel it tommorow depending upon the outcome of this thread. Hasn't been dispatched yet so should be ok. Still covered by DSR but don't want to piss them about.

I just think for the money the GT is the better bike and well, might even be better even if the GT was £189 too.


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## g00se (22 Sep 2009)

Hi,

Similar bikes. Both aluminium frames and identical front forks. The gears on the Kona (3x8 speed Shimano Altus) are better than those on the GT (3x7 speed Shimano TY10/TX50):

Kona gears: http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/Derailleur/shimano/altus/PRD_351004_116crx.aspx

GT gears: http://www.mtbr.com/cat/drivetrain/derailleur/shimano/tourney-rd-tx50/PRD_416139_116crx.aspx

General reviews of both bikes:

Kona: http://www.mtbr.com/cat/older-categories-bikes/2002-hardtail/kona/lanai/PRD_358660_1494crx.aspx

GT: http://www.mtbr.com/cat/bikes/xc-hardtail/gt/aggressor/PRD_365015_1527crx.aspx

Of the two, I'd go with the Kona.
http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...mhWr0TGKS_SC-NSOQ&sig2=m4y0aF6-gvXMA8TWgGb6Xg


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## Riverman (23 Sep 2009)

Thanks for the advice. It's interesting what you say about the gears although I'm not sure I'll need 24 gears unless the highest gear is higher on the Kona than the GT.

How about this, it's £50 or £60 but maybe worth it.


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## g00se (23 Sep 2009)

It's not so much the number of gears but the quality - the gears on the GT are - to be honest - c**p.

I don't know much about Focus bikes but it looks better spec. the gears are OK and the forks have a lock-out. Suspension forks on bikes under £500 are not really worth it. they add a ridiculous amount of weight and as they are only mechanical springs. They just end up bouncing along. So a lot of your effort in cycling - especially on hills - just goes towards you bouncing up and down rather than going forward. Most think suspension forks on roads are pointless - just get some padded gloves . With a lock out- you can turn the suspension off for road use - though they still weigh a lot. In which case, a hybrid with mountain bike size wheels might be worth considering.

Some more thoughts - Edinburgh bike coop have a good reputation - check out:

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebw...QRY=C106&f_SortOrderID=1&f_bct=c003155c002909

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebw...QRY=C105&f_SortOrderID=1&f_bct=c003155c002910


Evans have a sale on - these look reasonable if you prefer front forks - the Pinnacle seems reasonably spec.ed for the price.

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/3700-2009-mountain-bike-ec001556

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/3700-2009-mountain-bike-ec016484

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/pinnacle/source-20-2009-mountain-bike-ec018100

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/3900-2009-mountain-bike-ec016486

For what it's worth - this is what I think would suit best:

http://www.cyclesuk.com/397-279113?sid=302320cb87c53315

or http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=21695

but it's got bigger wheels that a mountain bike


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## Riverman (24 Sep 2009)

Thanks everso much for that goose.

Do you think it's worth paying an extra £85 for the Kona Fire?

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/product/3147/Kona_Fire_Mountain_2009


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## g00se (24 Sep 2009)

That's a very good price! The RRP is £450. I think it's a better bike than the first few mentioned. I still think you should be looking at 700c wheels and no suspension but hey - if everyone agreed on the best bike, they'd only be one model .

The forks on that Kona don't have lockouts which could be a benefit. If you want a mountain bike, I would try to stretch to this for another £35 - the upgrades are well worth it (though I know the price is creeping up from your first choices):

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/product/2839/Kona_Fire_Mountain_Deluxe_2009

Lockout forks and better quality components (Deore all round). If it's not a rude question, are you skinny or on the heavier side? If the latter, cheap suspension forks are going to end up bouncing along (called 'bobbing'). More expensive forks have less bob as they are more effectively 'damped' - the fork compressing on a road impact but not moving under steady riding. The forks on the bikes you've mentioned so far are the cheapest of the cheap and are just basically springs so will bob a lot - especially going up hills. The next upgrade is 'lockout' allows you to turn the forks 'off' if you know you are going over smooth terrain. More expensive forks are better damped so don't necessarily need the lockout (and lighter) but they alone cost hundreds.

Just wondering if you work for a company that is part of a ride 2 work scheme? There are lots of savings to have from these (40-50% and you pay over 12 months). Apparently, small companies can now take part and the employee can set the whole thing up - just getting someone in finance to OK it:

http://www.guardian.co.uk/money/2009/sep/19/cycle-to-work-scheme


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## Riverman (26 Sep 2009)

g00se I value your help immensely and I take your points on the locked forks. I stupidly though, worrying that they might pull the cheap Kona Fire, ordered the regular version thinking it had lockout forks, I confused it slightly with the focus.

I'm 13.5 stone (I was 15 back in May when I started cycling) and 5 foot 8, do you think the forks will affect the ride much?

I agree it's worth paying the extra £35 for lockout forks and upgraded components although I don't know how much better the other components are compared to those on the regular Kona Fire.

I'm thinking if I do end up with the regular Kona Fire I can upgrade the forks in a years time or so maybe? And get some really light lockout forks.

As for 700c wheels, I do sort of agree with you, however I've always found it harder to accelerate and maintain a high speed on them. I just can't get the gearing right and it feels like I'm working harder. Mountain bikes for me are a case of quicker revolutions in the same gears obviously as the wheels are smaller but for some wierd reason I find this easier. It's almost like on the 700c I have a tendency to try and grind or I keep completely away from the higher front chain ring.

I can't wait to get this bike though! I've been relying on a BSO for the last two months and hardly cycling at all. In the end the BSO's cassette was demolished, snapped chain rings and everything. No more cheap shoot from China.


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## Riverman (26 Sep 2009)

lol speaking of these bikes this one looks awesome.
http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/product/3303/Kona_FiveO_Hardtail_Bike_

Really interesting frame too, shame about the price (massive discount though) and the lack of 18" frame size.

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/product/2840/Kona_Bass_2009 This one is reduced by 42%

http://www.singletrackbikes.co.uk/product/2849/Kona_CoilAir_Supreme lol £4000!


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## g00se (26 Sep 2009)

Hi,

The gears on the standard Fire are fine - it's was just for the price of the Deluxe, the Deore kit would be good value.

Shame about the forks though, I think they'll bob a fair bit but you could upgrade them later if you want to - might be worth contacting them and seeing if you can catch them before the other is sent out.

A very worthwhile upgrade to do as soon as you can would be to put slick tyres on the bike - or tyres with predominantly slick surfaces but a bit of knobbles on the outside. They'll be much faster and easier to cycle with on roads.

Cheers


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## Riverman (1 Oct 2009)

Hey,

Finally got the bike, looks very good. Only the back brake caliper is too tight and the pad is sticking. 

Is it me or do all new bikes seem to arrive with the chain trapped between the frame and the front chain rings?

This is the second new bike I've bought and I had exactly the same problem with the last. I had to detach the chain and pull it with all my might to remove the last, I think this one is going to be the same.  I'll pile loads of oil on it anyway.

Btw thanks g00se, your advice is invaluable, I tried to contact them but it was already on its way. I definitely think I will end up replacing the front forks in the end and quite like the look of Schwalbe City jet tyres.


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## g00se (1 Oct 2009)

Cool - those tyres will help.

Why not take the bike down to a LBS and have them set it up for you? Should fix the squeaking brake, index and tension the gears properly etc.

Tip for the chain... I recently dropped down to the smallest front cog but it slipped and jammed in between the crank and bottom bracket. 

Rather than taking the crank off or tearing your fingers off...:

Make sure there is enough movement in the chain (hopefully the rear dérailleur is on a smaller cog - if not you MIGHT need to manually lift it off of one of the bigger cogs, change the gear up and place it on a small cog.).

Look at where the chain is jammed - whether it looks easier to pull the bottom chain down and forward - or if it would be better to pull the top of the chain up and forward. (When a chain jams like this when cycling, it's usually better to pull the bottom of the chain down and forward and this is the reverse of when it jammed).

Anyway - assuming the latter. Pull the bottom of the chain right down - the movement in the rear dérailleur on a small cog will allow a lot of chain movement. Pull it down and try to get a few of the links onto one of the chain rings. When on, slowly turn the pedal/crank backwards to pull the chain out from between the crank and bottom bracket. 

Let the leverage of the crank do the work for you . Prob best to do this with the bike upside down too.

Cheers.


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## Riverman (3 Oct 2009)

Thanks, finally managed to pull the chain out. Took it for a short spin although the back brake is still sticking. Will take it to the LBS I think.

The shifting is not right, easy to fix but may as well get it serviced. I shifted down and the chain came off the back chain rings and went in between them and the spokes!

The extremely lazy part of me is wondering how much they'd charge to replace the forks.


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