# Cycle 12 miles



## bobby (4 Nov 2007)

Hello, 

Need some advice. 

I am of average fitness. How long would it take me to cycle 12 miles?

thanks alot


----------



## yorkshiregoth (4 Nov 2007)

http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/speed_distance_time_calc.html


----------



## wafflycat (4 Nov 2007)

Lots of variables, including:-

weather, e.g. headwind or tailwind
terrain e.g. flat, uphill, downhill, hilly, rolling
type of bike
type of tyres
type of road e.g urban with lots of traffic lights & junctions or rural with no hold-ups
type of off-road e.g mud up to your armpits, or hard track


----------



## palinurus (4 Nov 2007)

Assuming it's on-road: 40-60 minutes.


----------



## ufkacbln (4 Nov 2007)

Sounds daft, but why?

I do this distance in about 50 minutes, but with my wife in tow about 80.

If you are in no hurry I would perhaps allow an hour and a half for a leisurely pootle with time to cool down and have a quick wash at the other end if required.

If it is for a commute however You can push alittle faster and then allow time for a shower at the far end.


----------



## got-to-get-fit (4 Nov 2007)

Hi......

If you are thinking of this from a Commute point of view and wondering how long its going to take to get to work.......

I commute 11.8 miles and it takes me 40 mins, im of average fitness and my commute is fairly flat with a couple of smallish hills.

I use a road bike and i work shifts so traffic is usually not so bad.


----------



## gbb (4 Nov 2007)

As Wafflycat asks, there are loads of factors.
Are you looking to get from a to b as quick as you can, or just a steady ride.
What bikes have you got in mind....

You'd be surprised what youre capable of. Many people think 10 miles is ...well....insane. Its not, its easiy achievable with a little effort and patience. A few rides soon build up some strength.

I went out with the wife today, she doesnt normally ride more that 2 or 3 miles. She used my old roadbike, and we did 15 miles in just over an hour.
A very steady ride for me, but quite an achievement for the wife. She was perfectly ok when she got back.....on with the day.


----------



## 515mm (5 Nov 2007)

Hi Bobby, welcome to the forum!

When I started commuting in January, the 14 mile, mostly flat ride into work took me just under an hour. I'd been going to a gym for about a year already and thought I was reasonably fit. It now takes me 47-50 minutes.(Yes, I do keep a check and I try and break my 47'17'' record once a week)

Oh, since February I've lost 16 pounds of body fat according to my gym instructor and her calipers.......


----------



## Arch (5 Nov 2007)

As everyone says, there are loads of variables. I did about 12 miles yesterday, took about five and a half hours, but that includes pootling, stopping to look at an old windmill, taking a lot of photos, and a pub lunch... 

But if I'd had to ride 12 miles direct, I reckon, with a favourable wind (or no wind) and relatively flat, then I might manage it in an hour or so.

Main thing, if you're hoping to do it regularly, like on a commute, is to allow plenty of time to start with, so that you're not running out of time and having to flog yourself and ending up discouraged and knackered. The more you do it, the quicker you'll get.


----------



## Arch (5 Nov 2007)

Oh, and welcome to the forum...


----------



## johnr (5 Nov 2007)

First time you do it, it'll seem like hours... after a few weeks, you'll wonder what the fuss was all about.


----------



## Tynan (5 Nov 2007)

if it's london, add 20% for stopping for lights, it's absurd

I average 18mph plus for my 12.5 miles and it generally takes me an hour, go figure


----------



## ufkacbln (5 Nov 2007)

Tynan said:


> if it's london, add 20% for stopping for lights, it's absurd
> 
> I average 18mph plus for my 12.5 miles and it generally takes me an hour, go figure



This is actually a limiting factor on how much you can cut off your personal best.

I am consistent to within a couple of minutes, and the variation is almost entirely due to lights!


----------



## bobby (5 Nov 2007)

Hello, 

Wow! Never expected so many to reply! thanks!

I am f****d off with the trains so I want to cycle in! It around 11.5 miles from Belvedere (south london) to central london (london bridge). 

I go throught abbey wood, plumstead, woolwich, charlton, greenwich, deptford and then the city. So I am hoping it will be quite up to the city. 

Anyone else travel near those areas?

What about this bike for a starter?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...665_crumb_33980-90909_parentcategoryrn_103665


thanks people

Bobby


----------



## Mortiroloboy (5 Nov 2007)

Hi and welcome, Don't even think about buying that piece of cr@p! Seriously it will fall apart, and you don't need any kinda suspension malarky if you only intend to ride on tarmac, if you are content to buy from Halfords, then have a look at some of their 'better' Carrera own brand models, or better still find a good (local to you) and reputable LBS Local Bike Shop. Establish a rapport with the owner/manager, this relationship will stand you in good stead, trust me!


----------



## punkypossum (6 Nov 2007)

Not that bike!!!!  If you want something mountain bikey, but ride it mainly on roads, have a look at the carrera subway from hellfords, the basic one starts at £199, but there is always odd discounts and sales, so you can probably save some more. It's basically classified as an urban mountain bike, you get a mtb style frame, but with rigid forks and semi-slick tyres for road riding. Gets really good reviews and a lot of people are very happy with theirs. Don't go for cheap full suspension, you might as well commute on a pogo stick! (I'm only a beginner myself, but that particularly lesson has well and truly sunk in!!!)


----------



## Elmer Fudd (6 Nov 2007)

I've found that the only real (if any) suspension you need on a Hybrid / MTB is seat post suspension,and even that needs faffing about with. Luckily for me my MTB with suspension forks was stolen, not crying too much as it was a relatively cheapo piece of kit.
The best suspension you can have on your bike is your arms and legs, if you see a bump as you are going downhill just raise your weight off the saddle and you will glide over it.


----------



## Mortiroloboy (6 Nov 2007)

punkypossum said:


> Not that bike!!!!  If you want something mountain bikey, but ride it mainly on roads, have a look at the carrera subway from hellfords, the basic one starts at £199, but there is always odd discounts and sales, so you can probably save some more. It's basically classified as an urban mountain bike, you get a mtb style frame, but with rigid forks and semi-slick tyres for road riding. Gets really good reviews and a lot of people are very happy with theirs. Don't go for cheap full suspension, you might as well commute on a pogo stick! (I'm only a beginner myself, but that particularly lesson has well and truly sunk in!!!)



Ditto- the subway 1 is an ideal bike for your commute, my girls have one each and they are perfectly happy on the towpath or the road, good solid machine, nicely understated so not so attractive to thieves.

Just don't let the Halfords monkey set it up for you LOL!! get a good bicycle repair book and do it yourself, or get your LBS to give it the once over, OTOH you may be lucky, your local Halfords may even have a halfway decent mechanic in store who knows his bottom bracket from his steerer tube!


----------



## Christopher (6 Nov 2007)

bobby
Are you aware that you can get free cycle maps for all of London from TFL (Transport for London)? They will even post them to you, as long as you live in London. 
Failing that most LBSs should have a few of the local area...


----------



## Arch (6 Nov 2007)

Just to second (third? fourth?) the 'you don't need suspension' replies. Too much suspension and knobbly tyres will make it harder to ride, and sap your energy. Think of the difference between running on hard sand and soft sand on a beach - it's much easier and faster on hard.

Ideally a commuting bike (for me, anyway) ought to have fairly slick tyres, no suspension, mudguards, to cut down on the spray both onto yourself and onto anyone behind you, and a rack, so that you can carry what you need to off your back. But plenty of people manage without these, and use a rucksack or courier bag. 

Also, if you are budgeting a certain amount of outlay on a bike, bear in mind the extras you'll need

Lock. A good one, like a D-lock. A rule of thumb is to spend 10% of the value of the bike on a lock.

Pump/puncture repair kit/spare tube. If you don't carry them, you're guaranteed to need them. (Acting on this principle, I carry about half my bodyweight in 'essentials' to ward off the evil eye, but I'm a bit of an extreme...)

Perhaps a suitable waterproof and breathable jacket. Hi-vis or not is up to you, but a jacket that fits right and isn't too stuffy really helps.

If you haven't cycled on the roads for a while, buy or borrow a copy of Cyclecraft, by John Franklin. This book is the how-to bible of modern transport cycling, telling you all about how to claim your space on the road, maximise your safety, deal with hazards etc. Many of us think it should be compulsory reading! And to go with it, perhaps, a copy of the new Highway Code edition (or look online). 

And if you choose to, a helmet. Again, debatable and there isn't room to go into it all here, but if you get one, make sure it fits properly and you know how it should be worn. Seriously, you'd be amazed at the number you see worn backwards...

Once you get hooked (no ifs!), there's padded this, hi-tech that, upgrades... But it's quite possible to commute a decent distance in ordinary clothes, so don't feel you have to have 'all the gear'.

And enjoy it! Might be a good idea to do a couple of trial runs, at the weekend to familiarise yourself with the route when you have plenty of time. Not just so that you don't get lost, but also to identify tricky junctions, bad potholes etc.

And you can always ask us lot about stuff - here or in 'commuting'. We're mostly friendly, and we love to see another bod on a bike!


----------



## Panter (6 Nov 2007)

Does your employer run/could be talked into running a cycle to work scheme where you get a tax break on a bike and accessories?

Its a good scheme and could see you with very good kit at almost half of the retail price 

Oh, and welcome to the forum


----------



## wafflycat (6 Nov 2007)

Another vote here for 'no suspension' if cycling on roads.

Have a look here for advice on cycling in London

http://www.lcc.org.uk/

Guide to starting to cycle in London here:-

http://www.lcc.org.uk/index.asp?PageID=966

I'd recommend some cycle training too. Plus get, read & inwardly digest 'Cyclecraft' by John Franklin http://www.cyclecraft.co.uk/ to get used to cycling safely & assertively (not aggressively) and hence enjoyably.


----------



## bobby (6 Nov 2007)

*Thanks to all of you for the help!*

Hello, 

Thanks to all of you for the help!

Any good shops I should look in?

So no suspension for road cycling?

Frustruck - thanks the maps did help!

Panter - Only a few cycle in the firm! Do you cycle from Kent to 
London?

Cheers

Bobby


----------



## Dayvo (6 Nov 2007)

bobby said:


> Any good shops I should look in?



Take your pick: 

http://www.evanscycles.com/foyer.js...lus&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=cycling_plus

http://www.gbcycles.co.uk/

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/default.aspx?ReferID=

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/comms/srv.a4d?f_pg=home.htm&f_Cardinal=1

http://www.bonthronebikes.co.uk/

Plus Halfords or a local bike shop.


----------



## fossyant (6 Nov 2007)

Don't forget chain reaction, parker-international etc


----------



## snorri (6 Nov 2007)

Oh! and just a friendly warning there bobby, panter is a bloke


----------



## ash68 (6 Nov 2007)

hello Bobby, just adding my welcome to the long list you already have. Don't think you need any advice from me, the regulars seem to have you well sorted out.Only one point, don't forget some good bright lights if your cycling in the dark.Now get yourself a bike and get pedalling


----------



## bobby (6 Nov 2007)

Hello all and once again thanks!

Can some one explain why having road bike is better than a suspension (mountain) bike for commuting to work on via roads>

Sorry I really don't know alot about bikes  (Yet)

Bobby


----------



## Panter (6 Nov 2007)

snorri said:


> Oh! and just a friendly warning there bobby, panter is a bloke








> Panter - Only a few cycle in the firm! Do you cycle from Kent to
> London?


 Hell no, Sittingbourne to East Malling, 'tis far enough for me 


cheers

Chris


----------



## punkypossum (6 Nov 2007)

Suspension on cheap bikes doesn't work properly, you waste a lot of your energy bouncy up and down uncontrollably rather than going forward. Also, cheap suspension tends to be very heavy. The knobbly tyres on a mountain bike again slow you down a lot, so you don't really need them if you stay on the road. However, a mountain bike with slick tyres or a hybrid can make a great commuter bike (also means by putting the knobblies back on you can do some mountain biking if you fancy it and cannot afford two bikes). I have a mountain bike with front suspension only and use it for everything, if you do decide to go down that road, you are best off with a suspension fork that can be locked out at which point you are probably looking at around £400....


----------



## bobby (6 Nov 2007)

Hello, 

Thanks all! 

At the moment just want to commute, so may be 
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...rumb_33980-33957-31319_parentcategoryrn_60956

Cheers!

Bobby


----------



## Arch (7 Nov 2007)

snorri said:


> Oh! and just a friendly warning there bobby, panter is a bloke



This is getting to be the equivalent of "Oh! Arch is a _girl_!"


Bobby, punkypossum has summed it up pretty well on suspension and tyres. Imagine the difference between walking a mile, and doing that mile on a pogostick carrying a rucksack with bricks in it.

Also, knobbly tyres, designed to grip in mud give you less traction on the tarmac (less actual tyre in contact with the road). Also they tend to be inflated to lower pressures, making them wallow-y. So at the same time, they act like glue slowing you down, but fail to stick so well. Like elderly blu-tak...


God, I'm full of analogies today aren't I?


----------



## Blonde (7 Nov 2007)

My flattish 13 mile urban commute with about 41 sets of traffic lights/pedestrian crossings takes about 45 minutes give or take five minutes. I'd allow an hour just in case anything delays you - such as a puncture, heavy traffic, loads of traffic lights on red etc. A more rural commute wouldn't not take so long as you wouldn't be stopping so much, if at all. Dont forget to allow ten minutes at the other end to shower or wash/wipe down and get changed etc.


----------



## Cycling Naturalist (7 Nov 2007)

A word of warning - don't start off trying to commute 12 miles straightaway. And don't think of doing the return trip on your first occasion. Practise on the commute at the weekends first and build up to it. Otherwise, you'll do a 12 mile route at the weekend, think that commuting is a doddle, have a nightmare day and it will put you off for life.


----------



## bobby (7 Nov 2007)

Hello All, 

thanks for your advice! So the bike in my previous post should do the job?

Cheers

Bobby


----------



## Tynan (7 Nov 2007)

bobby said:


> Hello,
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> ...



umm yes, usual advice is spent as much as you can afford, let's leave price there

get them to put the thinnest slickest tyres that;ll fit, makes a huge difference

and you'll really want mudguards at this time of year, and think about clothing, some sort of waterproofish top at this time of year as a minimum

maybe use a proper bike shop if you have one although I doubt they can match the price you'll probably end up with a better bike and an awful lot more advice and support which you might need early on


----------



## Daniel B (7 Nov 2007)

bobby said:


> Hello All,
> 
> thanks for your advice! So the bike in my previous post should do the job?
> 
> ...



If you can go into a store to confirm the sizing is correct, then you might want to try and order online.
I am 5ft 10/11 with a 35" inside leg, and I have a 20" frame.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/...rumb_33980-33957-31319_parentcategoryrn_60956

Reduced from £330 to £247, there is a code on the front page for £25 off, and then another code for 10% off, but you do have to pay around £9.99 delivery, but for another £40 your getting a fair bit more bike me thinks.

I £207.73 inc delivery, and looks like you also get a £10 voucher sent to you to spend in store, so techincally could end up costing you £197.73!

Incidentally, I have a subway one, and it does my commuting job nicely.

Dan


----------



## Arch (7 Nov 2007)

Patrick Stevens said:


> A word of warning - don't start off trying to commute 12 miles straightaway. And don't think of doing the return trip on your first occasion. Practise on the commute at the weekends first and build up to it. Otherwise, you'll do a 12 mile route at the weekend, think that commuting is a doddle, have a nightmare day and it will put you off for life.



Yeah, it can be good to only ride one way (if you can leave the bike locked up somewhere securely overnight) - ride in, come home on bus or train, go in next day on bus/train, ride home.

Or do both ways and then have the next day 'off' and travel by bus/train...

You'll soon build up to feeling fine about doing both ways every day.


----------



## bobby (10 Nov 2007)

Hello All, 

thanks for the advice. I went into halfords and looked at the subway 1 and 2. I was told that two was *much* better as the wheels were reinforced more and it had break pads. The commute will be 24 miles per day. 

Any input into these bikes?

thanks alot

bobby


----------



## punkypossum (10 Nov 2007)

Break pads????


----------



## andy_wrx (10 Nov 2007)

punkypossum said:


> Break pads????



Subway 2 appears to have discs, Subway 1 to have V-brakes.


----------



## buggi (10 Nov 2007)

"It has Brake pads" ????? LOL, i should feckin hope so!

Bobby, normal V brakes should do you fine. the Halfords monkey's don't know what they are talking about. probably the Subway 2 is more expensive i bet. 

Subways are fine but, if the reason you're put off road bikes is because of the curly handle bars, have you thought about buying a road bike and having straight handlebars put on? basically, the lighter the bike and the thinner and slicker (no tread) the tyres are, the easier it is going to be to ride. Don't be afraid of slick tyres. they grip the road much better than knobbly ones as there is more rubber in contact with the tarmac. 

once you have your bike, ride the distance at the weekend to see how much time it takes. we are all different when we first start to ride. and the bike makes a difference. my road bike i can do my commute in 1 hour, but on my mountain type bike (knobbly tyres) it takes an extra 25 mins. 

ps. if you don't know LBS means local bike shop. the guys in Halfrauds are monkey's.

pps. it's tiring at first but give yourself a couple of weeks and you'll be flying. as suggested, you might want to take it in turns with public transport for the first few weeks until you get your fitness levels up. 

ppps. welcome too!


----------



## yenrod (10 Nov 2007)

God dammit - 12mls in 5.5hrs: ive done 100mls on my own in that time..with my brain as the camera, the lights as the 'pootle', and a flapjack a _food_... 




Arch said:


> As everyone says, there are loads of variables. I did about 12 miles yesterday, took about five and a half hours, but that includes pootling, stopping to look at an old windmill, taking a lot of photos, and a pub lunch...
> 
> But if I'd had to ride 12 miles direct, I reckon, with a favourable wind (or no wind) and relatively flat, then I might manage it in an hour or so.
> 
> Main thing, if you're hoping to do it regularly, like on a commute, is to allow plenty of time to start with, so that you're not running out of time and having to flog yourself and ending up discouraged and knackered. The more you do it, the quicker you'll get.


----------



## alfablue (12 Nov 2007)

Bobby, either the Subway 1 or Subway 2 will be ideal for commuting, get the 2 if you can afford it, but Disc Brakes alone are not that important to have. Make sure it fits, and has been stated elsewhere, get helmet (if you agree with them) D-Lock, mudguards, warm gloves (fingers get very cold), jacket for winter commuting, good lights, pump, puncture kit and tyre levers. I think you will get a discount on accessories if you buy a bike from Halfords. Halfords don't have the best rep for setting bikes up, so be prepared to take it back if anything doesn't seem right and make them sort it (or learn how to sort it yourself).


----------



## postman (12 Nov 2007)

While reading all the great advice given out to our newbie.I thought what a good idea a cycling buddie would be .A person to accompany a first timer to the shops so they are not fobbed off with a bike that's not right for them.


----------



## dondare (12 Nov 2007)

How many sets of lights?


----------



## wafflycat (13 Nov 2007)

postman said:


> While reading all the great advice given out to our newbie.I thought what a good idea a cycling buddie would be .A person to accompany a first timer to the shops so they are not fobbed off with a bike that's not right for them.



Bike buddy..

http://www.towerhamletswheelers.org.uk/cycletraining/

_"Wheelers have a list of volunteers that can be called upon to assist you in finding new routes and riding with you on them. This is especially of benefit to those starting to commute by bicycle. No matter your start or end location, a suitable buddy can usually be found to guide you on your journey until you are familiar and confident with your route."_


----------



## Tynan (13 Nov 2007)

'warm gloves (fingers get very cold)'

I came off once on some oil not wearing gloves

I've never cycled without gloves since

ever


----------



## bobby (18 Nov 2007)

Hello All, 

I brought the subway 2 bike today. Just some advice in relation to gears?

theres 21, so whats best uphill, downhill, flat. 

Cheers

Bobby


----------



## Cycling Naturalist (18 Nov 2007)

bobby said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I brought the subway 2 bike today. Just some advice in relation to gears?
> 
> ...



It's very simple - if your legs are going too fast for comfort, change to a higher gear. If you feel that you are having to push on the pedals, rather than just spin them, change to a lower gear.


----------



## HJ (18 Nov 2007)

bobby said:


> Hello All,
> 
> thanks for your advice! So the bike in my previous post should do the job?
> 
> ...



I throw in my standard advice on buying a bike. Find a good Local Bike Shop (LBS) try as many different bike as you can in your price range, if they don't let you test ride on the road walk away and don't go back. Then buy the one that suits you best, or in this case see if your provider can source it for you. I wouldn't buy any bike I hadn't had a chance to ride first.


----------



## bobby (18 Nov 2007)

Hello, 

Cheers!

Bobby


----------



## Jacomus-rides-Gen (25 Nov 2007)

Bobby, I seem to have come o this thread woefully late - but can bring something I am surprised no-one has beaten me to post yet...

www.sheldonbrown.com

He looks like a weirdo, but _damn_ his site is useful. Almost everything you will need to know about cycling is contain within these hallowed pages.

http://sheldonbrown.com/beginners/index.html

The above link will probably be v useful to you.


----------

