# London To Paris For A Older Newbie



## Haggis2w (5 Jul 2017)

After a long break from cycling (nearly 30 years), I looking to take part in an organised London/Paris cycle ride next Sept (2018) Part of my motivation is the need to get fit as last year I was diagnosed with Type 2 Diabetes.

I am now 49 years old and have started to slowly train for it. I have Bought a second hand Boardman Road Sport (2015 model I think) as I have a tight budget. I have switched to clipless pedals and plan to chance the saddle when I can afford to. 

So far I have managed a ride of 17.3mls in 1hr 38min. I know I have a long way to go to get myself fit for the london to paris. But at the moment I am trying to balance my needs as a diabetic with those of cycling. Also I am trying to work out local rides which keep me of the main roads.

I had a small sucess the other day in that I have a small local route that I do which is 8.4mls, normaly I cant do it in one but I did it in 34mins no stops apart for junctions. I know this will be vsmall stuff to most of you but I am an unfit 107kg

I am sure that there will be someone on this site that has done the london paris. Any advice welcome on any aspect of what I am doing, but please don't say not to do it.


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## mjr (5 Jul 2017)

Haggis2w said:


> So far I have managed a ride of 17.3mls in 1hr 38min. I know I have a long way to go to get myself fit for the london to paris.


10.6mph. A good start! Do you need to do a particular speed and daily distance for the organised ride you're considering?



Haggis2w said:


> Also I am trying to work out local rides which keep me of the main roads.


http://cycle.travel/map - if you can tolerate the B road to the nearest towns, there's lots of cycle routes beyond that without touching main road, including the lovely St Ives to Cambridge track.


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## jay clock (5 Jul 2017)

little and often. pump tyres up nice and hard. get bike set up to fit properly. DOn't eat all the calories you burn off back in cakes


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## mjr (5 Jul 2017)

Bike Set Up DIY http://wheel-easy.org.uk/uploads/documents/Bike Set Up 2017a.pdf


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## bozmandb9 (6 Jul 2017)

I did London to Paris last year, and I'd say definitely do it! Last year we did in over three days (me, at 45 years old, my 14 year old son, and a 65 year old cycling buddy). This year I'd like to do it with my son in 24 hours.

Over three days it's really quite achievable, are you planning a 3 or 4 day route? Believe it or not, a couple of years ago, 11 miles was my limit, so by September next year, you will be fine, so long as you keep gradually increasing the distance. Find out what your longest day will be, and focus on that. Also, ideally, get used to riding back to back days. 

What sort of kit are you in? Do you have good bib shorts (with no pants), you may want to consider chamois cream too. Comfort in the saddle is a major factor in this type of ride, or at least can make it a lot more pleasant!

What made the difference for me and my son, was taking our bikes on holiday to France, probably two years ago now. Before that, as I said, we were basically stuck on 11 miles. We started riding along the coast, and our distance went up day by day, 10, 15, 20, 30, 45 (not exactly like that). Because it was fairly flat, warm, and pleasant, we realised we could pretty much cover as much distance as we wanted, it just took more time to go further, and if we got too hot or tired, we could usually stop for an ice cream!

Climbing will be the big challenge. Drop as much weight as you can, cycling will certainly help with this, and also make sure that your gearing is appropriate. It probably will be anyway. 

To help progress your riding, look around for a cycle club, and ask about their club ride. It may be challenging at first, but you'll find having local cycling buddies will help enormously. They may have an open non drop ride for newcomers which you can come along to. Speaking to more experienced cyclists, they may also help you to optimise your bike set up. Getting the seat height right, or adjusting the stem, can make an enormous difference, both to your pedalling efficiency, and your comfort on the bike.

Feel free to message me, if you send me your phone number I'm happy to chat on the phone, or answer any questions you have. But most of all, just do it, and enjoy the ride, and the achievement. It's a great ride, and I highly recommend it.


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## Cycleops (6 Jul 2017)

Why don't you do the London- Brighton ride in Sept? 65 miles and a great day out. Sounds like a lot but you can just take it at your own pace.There's one long climb just outside Brighton but the rest in quite gentle.
http://www.londonbrightoncycle.co.u...5IgvhFN2Ml2ix18Q-YMAo4FgsFpsbVxrRwaApep8P8HAQ


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## Paul139 (6 Jul 2017)

I did it when I turned 50 and it was an amazing experience. With a year to go, if you stick at it (which is the hard part) you should be fine. And remember chamois cream, chamois cream, chamois cream!!


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## mjr (6 Jul 2017)

I see the creamed nappy brigade are out in force. Give it a try if you like but don't feel pressured into doing anything which doesn't work for you.


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## Paul139 (6 Jul 2017)

mjr said:


> I see the creamed nappy brigade are out in force. Give it a try if you like but don't feel pressured into doing anything which doesn't work for you.


No pressure intended. but it helped me.


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## alicat (6 Jul 2017)

I did London to Paris for the Royal British Legion last year over four days, when I was 55. It was great fun and I would recommend it to anyone.

I started 'training' in March that year. I made a spreadsheet in which I gradually built my distance up and frequency of rides. I didn't worry about speed. I did plenty of audaxes, some back to back, and did wattbike sessions for variety (I was already bored with my local lanes by the time I decided to enter).

If I were to do it all over again, I would also have actively tried to lose weight. I did lose 10lb just through the extra exercise; however weighing less would definitely have helped.

Go for it and feel free to keep posting updates on how you are doing.


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## alicat (6 Jul 2017)

Oh and 49 isn't old to be returning to cycling.


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## Stockie (10 Jul 2017)

Hi Haggis.

I did LTP about 5 years ago when 53 with global adventure and it was brill. You have got plenty of time to build up the necessary mileage, fitness. Just don't try to do to much to soon. I gradually built up over a period of time (about 10 months).

I gradually built up my long ride on a Sunday but I found it was important to get out as often as possible during week initially to build fitness. Better to do more shorter rides than just one long one initially.

Also at some point try to do consecutive days until you can do 3 or 4 together to mirror the actual ride, although not necessary the same distances. I found this particularly helpful.

The organisation with global adventure was first class with regulat stops for food and water. 

Most importantly enjoy it.


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## simmiwoodwal (21 Jul 2017)

I will be doing it this September as a complete newbie, 46 years old and didn't get on a bike for 30 years until 8 weeks ago. I will let you know how it goes.

Well done to you for taking the initiative. : )


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## Specialeyes (25 Jul 2017)

A mate and I did L2P (selfie at the Tower of London, selfie at the Eiffel Tower) in 23 hours, aged 47 a couple of years ago via the Newhaven-Dieppe route, just for a fun thing to do one weekend. Ferry out, Eurostar back and back to work on Monday morning. It was just about the most fun on 2 wheels and I'd recommend any version of it to anyone. Oh, and he's Type 1 and I'm Type 2. 

Stick at it, as the Date-in-the-Diary for 2018 will act as a great motivator and also come around quicker than you think. Enjoy!


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## Effyb4 (26 Jul 2017)

I have just returned from doing London to Paris with my husband. We decided to do it independently, so that we could take the amount of time that I needed. I have heart failure, following a heart attack four years ago. We took 5 days to get to Paris and averaged 30-40 miles a day. It was a fantastic achievement and we both really enjoyed. For added fun, we went on our tandem and got a lot of attention.

You definitely have time to build up the mileage. I would suggest making a plan to build up the miles slowly and ride several days consecutively. The best of luck. Let us know how you get on.


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## Milkfloat (26 Jul 2017)

Haggis2w said:


> So far I have managed a ride of 17.3mls in 1hr 38min. I know I have a long way to go to get myself fit for the london to paris. But at the moment I am trying to balance my needs as a diabetic with those of cycling. Also I am trying to work out local rides which keep me of the main roads.
> 
> I had a small sucess the other day in that I have a small local route that I do which is 8.4mls, normaly I cant do it in one but I did it in 34mins no stops apart for junctions. I know this will be vsmall stuff to most of you but I am an unfit 107kg



With just a bit of effort you will be able to revisit this post in a years time and smile about how far you have come along.


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## jamieb158 (28 Jul 2017)

good luck to you, got my first road bike a couple of years ago and done my first long ride on Hadrians wall 191 miles over three days with an old friend recently as we both turned 50, its never too late in my book, im sure you will thoroughly enjoy it. my top tip i would have given myself with hindsight and noted for future long rides is double check your kit and bike before leaving, of all the daft things to happen we only took one pump between us on the last day of the ride as we were coming back to newcastle that day and found the pump was faulty when we got a flat so walked a couple of miles to get the tyre sorted. i was partly miffed at not checking the pump beforehand but also the fact i carried it the previous 180 odd miles lol.


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## Ticktockmy (2 Aug 2017)

With a year to go, you will have no problems in getting fit to ride from London to Paris, by then you should be happily able to do a 75+ Miles in a day. you will have worked out what clothes will suit your style of riding. I think what you need to plan for is which route you intend to use, where will you start in London, will you want to follow the https://avenuevertelondonparis.co.uk/the-cycle-route or other NCN routes . On this side of the channel you want to keep away from the main roads like the A23 and use the back roads likewise on the French side you can be spoilt for choose. Learn to do roadside repairs not only punctures, but cables, dérailleurs and other moving parts have a nasty habit of failing or going out of tune at the most inopportune moment. So what I am saying preparation of a long cycle ride is not only training for the physical, but route planning and cycle maintenance and diet.


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## al-fresco (2 Aug 2017)

Don't let a diabetes diagnosis scare you - I was diagnosed with type 2 diabetes in my mid-fifties but I returned to cycling (after a 30 year absence) shed a few pounds and the diabetes went away. A decade later, it's still not returned. (I think my doctor is secretly a bit miffed - you're not supposed to cure yourself.) When I first started riding again it took me 45 minutes to get my breath back after a 5 mile ride. It wasn't long before I was comfortable doing 100+ mile rides. Good luck with London-Paris, you'll enjoy it. I envy you!


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## Bhitucyclist (21 Apr 2019)

I am doing the L2P this sept. So far my speed is not getting any better than 8 to 10 miles .... i have done back to back days ...30 miles each day. So really worries that i will be left behind. I have a pendleton bike, the one with the straight handle bars. Any tips to get better will really help.


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## alicat (22 Apr 2019)

Welcome to the forum @Bhitucyclist. I did the L2P when I was much older than you, although I did have some cycling fitness to start with.

The only way to get fitter is to get miles in your legs. What helped me was to make a training plan gradually ramping up the distance then easing off a little every fourth week or so. The speed sorted itself out as I got fitter. 

I went out most days of the week, cycling as much of the way to work as I could. I went on rides with my local Cycling UK member group for company and did Audaxes (cheap Sportives) for variety. I did sessions on the wattbikes at the gym.

Google 'training for a long-distance cycle ride' and you will get more tips.


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## Bhitucyclist (22 Apr 2019)

alicat said:


> Welcome to the forum @Bhitucyclist. I did the L2P when I was much older than you, although I did have some cycling fitness to start with.
> 
> The only way to get fitter is to get miles in your legs. What helped me was to make a training plan gradually ramping up the distance then easing off a little every fourth week or so. The speed sorted itself out as I got fitter.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot for your advice. I made use of the easter weekend...did 36 and 40 miles... i am cycling to work 3 to 4 days .. but that distance is only 5 miles each way


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## Ming the Merciless (22 Apr 2019)

At this stage just ride more. More frequently and for as long as you can. Don't be afraid to stop for a break if taking on a longer ride. Try and ride as fast as you can where safe, effort that gets your heart rate up and breathing up. Then ease back when you need to, then try again in a few minutes etc. Hills are a good place to build fitness. Don't be afraid the stop on them the first time if necessary. Learn to pace them and eventually you will get up in one. Then try and get up in one slightly faster etc.


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## 12boy (22 Apr 2019)

Before I retired I lived 3.5 miles from work but found routes that allowed me to get in 20 roundtrip. Daily riding for longer distances will speed up your ability to do longer distances. On your longer rides over Easter, what became tired or sore? Legs, hands, neck and shoulders? Perhaps sitbones. There are many ways to sort out ergonomic issues and hopefully you can get those dialed in to the point where you aren't thinking about anything but riding when on your bike.


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## Bhitucyclist (22 Apr 2019)

12boy said:


> Before I retired I lived 3.5 miles from work but found routes that allowed me to get in 20 roundtrip. Daily riding for longer distances will speed up your ability to do longer distances. On your longer rides over Easter, what became tired or sore? Legs, hands, neck and shoulders? Perhaps sitbones. There are many ways to sort out ergonomic issues and hopefully you can get those dialed in to the point where you aren't thinking about anything but riding when on your bike.


Thanks ... my wrists were sore and knees :.. i do have back problems. But otherwise i was fine. But what i find most tiring is the concentration due to the heavy traffic depending on the route


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## 12boy (22 Apr 2019)

Wrists/hands can be dealt with by using bar ends, ergon grips, moving the saddle forward so more weight is on your tush and less on your hands, tilting the saddle nose up a tad for the same effect or perhaps going with bars that allow your hands to be in the "shaking hand position instead of palms down as with flat bars. I would make those saddle changes, if you do that, in small increments and ride a bit to see how you like them. Traffic is scary, but an upright position can make you more visible and allow you to see more ahead than bent over. Developing muscle memory that allows you to find your hands instantly on the brakes in a pinch is also useful as is increased confidence and dexterity in bike handling in general.


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## Bhitucyclist (23 Apr 2019)

12boy said:


> Wrists/hands can be dealt with by using bar ends, ergon grips, moving the saddle forward so more weight is on your tush and less on your hands, tilting the saddle nose up a tad for the same effect or perhaps going with bars that allow your hands to be in the "shaking hand position instead of palms down as with flat bars. I would make those saddle changes, if you do that, in small increments and ride a bit to see how you like them. Traffic is scary, but an upright position can make you more visible and allow you to see more ahead than bent over. Developing muscle memory that allows you to find your hands instantly on the brakes in a pinch is also useful as is increased confidence and dexterity in bike handling in general.


Thanks ... do you think moving the handle bars slightly up helps? I have a straight handle bar.


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## alicat (23 Apr 2019)

Bhitucyclist said:


> Thanks ... do you think moving the handle bars slightly up helps? I have a straight handle bar.



It might, no harm in trying and you can always put them back if you don't find it helps.

My no 1 tip for you based on what you have said here and in another post would be to find a local cycling group for beginners/improvers. They can help you find quiet, pleasant routes and look at your bike set up to see if it can be tweaked to improve comfort. They will also organise rides to give you confidence.


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## 12boy (23 Apr 2019)

Always good to learn from others, be it in person, from lessons at a bike coop if there is one locally, from books or online. I've been commuting for over 50 years and I have learned some good stuff on this very forum. The Sheldon Brown website has lots of good info too. As far as knees go, I have found that having your saddle high enough to have your heels barely reach the pedal on the max downstroke. This allows you to apply force with your leg less bent in the same way as walking erect is easier than duckwalking. As you raise or lower handlebars and seat you also move your saddle and bars forward and backward, since the seat tube and handle bar stem are at an angle. Get your saddle height right first, and then adjust saddle angle and fore and aft position, and your handle bar height. For those new to riding, or perhaps older, a more erect position is easier on the back . A lower end bike that fits the rider, is, in my opinion, far more enjoyable than one that doesn't, no matter how high end it is. I don't wear lycra type clothes but I avoid riding on seams in my underclothes or shorts/pants. Those seams can rub you raw in very little time.


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## Bhitucyclist (23 Apr 2019)

12boy said:


> Always good to learn from others, be it in person, from lessons at a bike coop if there is one locally, from books or online. I've been commuting for over 50 years and I have learned some good stuff on this very forum. The Sheldon Brown website has lots of good info too. As far as knees go, I have found that having your saddle high enough to have your heels barely reach the pedal on the max downstroke. This allows you to apply force with your leg less bent in the same way as walking erect is easier than duckwalking. As you raise or lower handlebars and seat you also move your saddle and bars forward and backward, since the seat tube and handle bar stem are at an angle. Get your saddle height right first, and then adjust saddle angle and fore and aft position, and your handle bar height. For those new to riding, or perhaps older, a more erect position is easier on the back . A lower end bike that fits the rider, is, in my opinion, far more enjoyable than one that doesn't, no matter how high end it is. I don't wear lycra type clothes but I avoid riding on seams in my underclothes or shorts/pants. Those seams can rub you raw in very little time.


I have always wondered whether i should raise my saddle by an inch ... however not being able to touch the ground while sitting on the saddle makes me a bit nervous specially while ridding during busy traffic times. I feel i will have less balance ! Any tips on that ?


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## alicat (23 Apr 2019)

Just raise it by a quarter inch and get used to it. After a few weeks or sooner if you feel confident, raise it by another quarter of an inch and repeat. As you raise it, practise stepping down off the saddle as you stop.


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## 12boy (24 Apr 2019)

Another common starting point for saddle height is to have the saddle top as high as the top of your hip bone if you stand next to ghe bike. I always hop off the saddle, leaving one foot on a pedal and the other on the ground when I come to a stop. I put my weight on the foot on the ground and use the pedal foot to move the pedal to a 3 o'clock position while waiting. When I take off, I push hard on the pedal to get moving while getting the ground foot back on the pedal. Since my saddle is hip height when my feet are on the ground there is no way I can sit on the saddle and put both feet on the ground. All my bikes have same saddle to pedal height unless I have to ride on poor traction surfaces such as ice, snow or loose gravel. Then I drop the saddle a liitle bit, maybe 1/4 of an inch. Alicat is correct, though about small changes, since once used to the height, tilt and fore and aft placement, a very small change is immediately noticeable. Of course, what I like may be quite different than your preferences, so this is just my opinion.


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## Bhitucyclist (24 Apr 2019)

12boy said:


> Another common starting point for saddle height is to have the saddle top as high as the top of your hip bone if you stand next to ghe bike. I always hop off the saddle, leaving one foot on a pedal and the other on the ground when I come to a stop. I put my weight on the foot on the ground and use the pedal foot to move the pedal to a 3 o'clock position while waiting. When I take off, I push hard on the pedal to get moving while getting the ground foot back on the pedal. Since my saddle is hip height when my feet are on the ground there is no way I can sit on the saddle and put both feet on the ground. All my bikes have same saddle to pedal height unless I have to ride on poor traction surfaces such as ice, snow or loose gravel. Then I drop the saddle a liitle bit, maybe 1/4 of an inch. Alicat is correct, though about small changes, since once used to the height, tilt and fore and aft placement, a very small change is immediately noticeable. Of course, what I like may be quite different than your preferences, so this is just my opinion.


Thanks , i am planning to increase the saddle height by 1/2 inch and practice. 
Your idea of hip to saddle height is a great one. This sat day i will change and see the impact ! Fingers crossed i will get used to it


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## Bhitucyclist (24 Apr 2019)

Dogtrousers said:


> The method I learned (from Richard Ballantyne's book I think) was that with your heel on the pedal at the lowest position while sitting on the saddle your knee joint should be straight. That means that when you transfer to having the ball of your foot on the pedal there's a slight bend in the knee.
> 
> That method has probably been debunked and is terribly old-fashioned and everyone will now throw rotten fruit at me.


Ha ha ha , 
I actually follow that rule ... not knowing that is a famous rule! Another cyclist on the road told me that i should raise me saddle and i tried it !


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## Rusty Nails (24 Apr 2019)

I wonder if @Haggis2w ever did that ride. He only ever made the one post.


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## Ming the Merciless (24 Apr 2019)

Rusty Nails said:


> I wonder if @Haggis2w ever did that ride. He only ever made the one post.



He set of last Autumn and still riding towards Paris via the M25. Forty five laps so far.


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## mjr (7 May 2019)

Dogtrousers said:


> If you can't reach the ground while sitting on the saddle sounds like it might be too high. I'd expect you to at least be able to get one toe down while seated.


Not necessarily. It depends on the height of the bottom bracket and angle of the seat tube too.


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## mjr (7 May 2019)

12boy said:


> Wrists/hands can be dealt with by using bar ends, ergon grips, moving the saddle forward so more weight is on your tush and less on your hands, tilting the saddle nose up a tad for the same effect


IMO that's bad advice. Once the saddle is in the correct place relative to the pedals, I'd leave it be and minimise the weight on my hands by moving the bars by changing stem angle, height or length, rather than moving the saddle. The BB spindle is the fixed point on the bike, then the seat has some adjustment and the bars have more.


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## CXRAndy (7 May 2019)

Dogtrousers said:


> That method has probably been debunked and is terribly old-fashioned and everyone will now throw rotten fruit at me



I use the heel on pedal method, served me fine, in fact ive had to move a saddle 5mm from setting point, so its very accurate as a starting point.


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## CXRAndy (7 May 2019)

I cant reach the ground on any of my bikes. Im tip toe-ing. So I always unclip one foot and slide off saddle when I come to a stop.

Reach, stack and seat tube length dictate bike size not whether you can reach the ground whilst on the saddle


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## Sharky (8 May 2019)

mjr said:


> Not necessarily. It depends on the height of the bottom bracket and angle of the seat tube too.


Also length of cranks. I went to shorter cranks, which meant I could raise the saddle, taking me further away from the ground.


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## Ming the Merciless (8 May 2019)

Be aware the Tarmac is further away on French roads. You may need to lower the saddle after the ferry crossing.


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## mjr (8 May 2019)

YukonBoy said:


> Be aware the Tarmac is further away on French roads. You may need to lower the saddle after the ferry crossing.


Are you sure? Priority to the right can make it seem much closer sometimes!


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## CXRAndy (14 Sep 2019)

@Bhitucyclist 

Did you get to Paris, was the effort worth the experience?


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## Dogtrousers (14 Sep 2019)

CXRAndy said:


> @Bhitucyclist
> 
> Did you get to Paris, was the effort worth the experience?


She got there ok https://www.cyclechat.net/goto/post?id=5735233


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## Bhitucyclist (15 Sep 2019)

Dogtrousers said:


> She got there ok https://www.cyclechat.net/goto/post?id=5735233


Yes indeed i got there ok


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## wilko373 (17 Sep 2019)

I just completed this as a supported ride, the 280 mile 4 day version via Dover/Calais. I started to prepare a few months out, from a point of not having cycled much since my teens. I was pretty out of shape when I started training, and still over 15 stone at 6'1 on the ride. I have done various sports including long distance running & know my own body, so I came up with my own training approach. I missed 3 weeks due to illness 2 months before & felt under prepped, but was one of the strongest riders in my group despite having the least experience, fattest, heaviest bike, and being one of the older members at 41, so I can't have got it too drastically wrong!

My thoughts... all just personal opinion of a novice of course...

Training:

1. It's not a race or a non-stop ride. If doing this supported, there are likely to be small breaks to assemble your group at junctions, and a break to snack and refill bottles every 15-20 miles. Get up to doing 30 miles comfortably, then start to factor this into your training. On your shorter training rides, you could try something I did a few times - pick a 5-8 mile loop you like on quiet roads with few junctions to stop at. Ride it at a very comfortable pace, then fast so you are working hard, but not absolutely maximum effort, then at a comfortable pace again to make a 15-25ish mile block. 

2. Having a good base for mileage is the priority. You can up your fitness and pace quite rapidly/satisfactorily in the final few weeks of prep with spin class, other HIIT/interval work and threshold training, but you can't fake mileage. Take it pretty easy on your longest training rides in the final 6 weeks. Enjoy them. Saddle time and distance matter most. Get off the bike and have a short break every 20 miles like you will on the ride. Eat lunch on the ride as well as on-bike snacking, as you will during the event. This will invariably be baguette!

3. Every article you see about long rides emphasises nutrition. Don't make yourself reliant on energy gels. They give you indigestion and wind if you're caning them for 4 days straight. Eat bananas, nuts, chocolate, flapjack & jelly babies little & often on long rides - this is what you'll get at the break stops.

4. Riding long on 2 consecutive days in preparation is, IMO, important & building this up gradually in duration will help prevent injuries & discomfort. All but the most prepped riders will be popping pain killers by day 3. People in our group who could do 100 miles at 16mph+ on closed roads still suffered! Taper your training plan significantly in the last week.

5. Pace is very relative to terrain & the way you ride will determine how much rest you get too. The Dover/Calais route contains about 1000ft of climb per 20 miles on average. There were 3 groups on our ride. The faster riders in the slow group did just over 12mph average, measuring only the time spent riding, whilst the slowest were only managing about 11mph. The intermediate group hovered around 12-14mph on bike, the fastest group about 16mph. There will be riders in the wrong group slowing the quicker groups down or waiting around for the rest in slower groups. If you can do the average speed required of you for 2 hours straight, and maybe +15% faster for 1 hour over this terrain, then I think you'll be fine as long as you've put the distance work in as well. Ask the organisers what the target pace is - from what I have read, the likely minimum is 12mph, but I don't feel you need to be able to do 60 miles in 5 hours or 84 in 7. You'll never be on the bike over 2 hours without a bit of a rest. Focus on getting good 1-2 hour pace, plus doing the long mileage at whatever feels comfortable & you'll be fine. Do some hilly rides & really go for it on the climbs, then coast until you get your breath and heart rate back. Get comfortable with the bike hitting 35mph+ going down too. You'll feel much better having smashed it to the top of a big hill & recovered than being the one who plods up in the saddle, brakes on the way down & only gets 30 seconds stop on the next re-group. Because the pace on the flat is steady, you'll get away with being less capable at long flat constant riding at pace if you can go up & down hills fast. Google maps can plan cycling routes and give you total ascent info for free.

Bike & kit:

1. It's a tour, not a race. Get the bike set up comfortably. Seek help if unsure. Do buy a touring saddle and break it in rather than adding gel covers etc... I used a battered and hard-ish old Rolls touring saddle I got from a friend, and had zero discomfort without using creams or ointments other than a blob of E45 cream before bed. More experienced cyclists on racey bikes with standard lightweight seats they came with suffered, I didn't, despite being the biggest and heaviest rider in my group.

2. You need a fresh top & shorts each day, you will not get a set washed & dried in a night. Get proper cycling kit. Mine was mainly Amazon cheapo stuff but worked fine. A riding jacket with removable sleeves is a godsend, I'd take a couple of those (they get stinky too), a pair of leggings & a lightweight single layer waterproof. And FFS ladies, you do not wear knickers under padded shorts, you'll just trap sweat on your skin & suffer.

3. Clipless pedals - do yourself a favour... use the MTB pedals which are flat on one side & and buy MTB shoes with recessed cleats. Note: every one of the highly experienced guides on our trip did. Road pedals with 3 bolt cleats are a massive pain in the ass in Paris especially, not to mention an injury risk walking on polished or tiled floors in shops, hotels etc... when you slip on the hard plastic cleats. If you hate this idea, either use toe clips (if you hate being clipped in), or take a pair of basic plastic flat pedals and swap them over for the road clipless pedals & put trainers on at lunch on the last day. There are lights every 100-200m in central Paris... Thank me later! 

4. Gearing... there were some sustained climbs of 6-10% and some short ones at 12-14% on our route. You need to practice some like this on your training rides & get a feel for the gears. I rode a tourer with a 48-38-26 crankset and a 11-32 cassette. I had shorter gears than I needed available. Most light road bikes seem to feature a 50/34 compact crank, and a 25-28 tooth biggest rear cog. For fairly novice riders, the lowest gear option is still going to be too long to be comfortable on the biggest hills, especially if not a 28, but you do not need the 11 or 12 tooth small gear on the 50 tooth big ring at all - standard roadie bikes are over-geared for this trip. I occasionally used the 48/11 option on my bike when pedalling really slowly on shallow declines and only used it properly when we had 8-9 miles to go as fast as we liked to lunch & I opted to go flat out & have a longer break. If I was going to do this ride on my lighter road bike at current fitness levels, I would drop the gearing. The current 50/34 crank and 26-11 cassette would be horrible on the big hills with tired legs. I would ideally want 1:1 shortest gear, which is readily achievable playing with cassettes, cranksets, or both.

5. Bike... fatter tyres with lower pressures are more comfortable, and roll better. My heavy (13kg) tourer on 32mm tyres is less effort on the flat +/- 2-3% slopes at touring speed than my light (7kg) road bike on 23mm tyres as it loses speed much less quickly if you freewheel a bit. You absolutely do want drop handlebars, not for streamlining, but because they offer the opportunity to move the angle of your back & shoulders. Practice riding on the drops, tops, and flats and moving backwards and forwards on the saddle a bit.

Lots of modern road bikes can take fatter tyres than the older ones, so my "perfect" bike for this if I was buying one to do it again next week would be a light road bike with 30-32mm tyres, MTB pedals, a touring saddle, a 50/34 crank, and a 34-11 cassette - some endurance focussed bikes now come built to this spec minus seat & pedals. 2 bottles is a must, decent frame & seat bags are a godsend.

As a novice, I found it tough but achievable & I reckon you need maybe 10 weeks training after you get to the point you can ride 25 miles non-stop.

I really struggled to find good advice on prepping for this, so thought it was worth giving some. All just my opinions as a novice & not gospel at all.


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