# Is this suitable for a fixed?



## Paulus (15 Apr 2008)

Hi there, I have the chance of gettng an old Peugeot Aubisque frame which although twenty years old is in really good nick. Would this be a suitable frame to convert into a fixed. I have toyed with the idea of going this way for a while. Your opinions please.


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## Smokin Joe (15 Apr 2008)

If you like the frame it is probably ideal as it will should have 120mm dropouts.


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## Zoiders (15 Apr 2008)

Smokin Joe said:


> If you like the frame it is probably ideal as it will should have 120mm dropouts.


126mm!

How many times!

You stick a 120 hub in and scrunch it down tight so the frame cold sets, in fact if the bike is only 20 years old - which places it in 1988 - I would bet its got modern spacing 130mm drop outs


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## Smokin Joe (15 Apr 2008)

Zoiders said:


> 126mm!
> 
> How many times!
> 
> You stick a 120 hub in and scrunch it down tight so the frame cold sets, in fact if the bike is only 20 years old - which places it in 1988 - I would bet its got modern spacing 130mm drop outs


I bow to you on 126mm instead of 120, but I don't think 130mm came out till a bit later than 1988.


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## hubgearfreak (15 Apr 2008)

Zoiders said:


> You stick a 120 hub in and scrunch it down tight so the frame cold sets



are you suggesting that you assemble it stressed and hope it settles itself down?


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## skwerl (16 Apr 2008)

hubgearfreak said:


> are you suggesting that you assemble it stressed and hope it settles itself down?



of course. it's a tried and tested technique. it's only 3mm either side. it'll unlikely ever settle to 120mm so will just need a bit of a squeeze to get the wheel in


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## hubgearfreak (16 Apr 2008)

skwerl said:


> of course. it's a tried and tested technique.



when i asked about doing it this way, bob jackson said DON'T


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## bobajobrob (16 Apr 2008)

It's fine to put a 120mm hub in a 126mm OLN steel frame. I've done it and so have lots of other people. I doubt it will "cold set" (i.e. bend) the frame at all, it will just spring back to 126mm when you remove the wheel.



skwerl said:


> it's only 3mm either side.



Quite.


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## hubgearfreak (16 Apr 2008)

that's what i thought, so why would they say it wasn't a good idea?


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## hubgearfreak (16 Apr 2008)

i've just read SB http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html and he implies that it's best to re-space properly even in a small difference, essential on larger jumps


so i think i'd be tempted to follow the advice of bob jackson and sheldon brown


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## hubgearfreak (16 Apr 2008)

but each bike belongs to its owner, and it's their choice . . . of course


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## bobajobrob (17 Apr 2008)

From Sheldon Brown:


> In general, you can safely go up one size in spacing this way, just springing the frame apart. I can't give you an absolute guarantee that this won't cause damage, but the odds are very much in your favor.


I think that's about as close to saying it's OK we'll get.


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## hubgearfreak (17 Apr 2008)

that's an imcomplete quote, as you know

i've highlighted the parts that suggest it should be done

_Do You Need To Permanently Spread Your Frame?

Ideally, the frame spacing should exactly match the hub spacing. This makes for easiest wheel replacement. In practice, however, there's a fair amount of latitude in fit. In fact, when the first 130 mm 8-speed hubs were introduced, they had locknuts with beveled sides, so that you could "spring" apart the rear triangle of a frame made for the then-standard 126 mm spacing.

In general, you can safely go up one size in spacing this way, just springing the frame apart. I can't give you an absolute guarantee that this won't cause damage, but the odds are very much in your favor.

 If, however, you want to do it right, and your frame is steel, cold setting is the better way to go.

 If you're going more than one size, say from 120 to 130, or from 126 to 135, you should definitely cold set the frame._


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## hubgearfreak (17 Apr 2008)

however, on your bike, it's your choice. i know i'd do it properly


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## Paulus (18 Apr 2008)

Further to my earlier post, what gearing would you suggest. I thought I might try a 44/13 or maybe a 14. Would that be too high a gear?


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## Origamist (18 Apr 2008)

Paulus said:


> Further to my earlier post, what gearing would you suggest. I thought I might try a 44/13 or maybe a 14. Would that be too high a gear?




Yes - unless you're track racing or have Chris Hoy-like physique and power. 

A reasonable gear range for most conditions would be 65" - 75". Less if you are in hilly terrain and perhaps higher if you like a bigger gear for flatter conditions.

Why not start with 44/16 or 44/17?


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## hubgearfreak (18 Apr 2008)

Origamist said:


> Yes - unless you're track racing or have Chris Hoy-like physique and power.
> 
> A reasonable gear range for most conditions would be 65" - 75". Less if you are in hilly terrain and perhaps higher if you like a bigger gear for flatter conditions.
> 
> Why not start with 44/16 or 44/17?



agreed. i have 48:19 and find it fine


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## BentMikey (19 Apr 2008)

48x19 here too, though I do have a few little climbs as I live in Biggin Hill, and commute to the West End. I've yet to beat 185rpm down Leaves Green so far.


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## peejay78 (20 Apr 2008)

i think you're overstepping the back.

be careful, if the front looks small, i.e 44, don't be tempted to go real small on the back, your gear inches jump up much quicker that way.


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