# Chathill to Blyth - part one



## annedonnelly (15 Jul 2021)

For years there's been an item on my "to do" list - "train to Chathill and ride back". Chathill is the most northerly station served by Northern Rail on the line north of Newcastle. It's on NCN1 and so is Blyth so it's a route that hardly needs any planning.​​The service that runs to Chathill is known as the "Chathill Flyer" and it only runs twice a day. The morning train gets into Chathill at 6.45am and the evening service is exactly 12 hours later. I'm an early riser compared to most people but getting up early enough to catch the train has been a bit off-putting.​​Over the last few weeks I've been upping my distances again so that I've done a couple of 50 milers & so I'm a bit more confident about being a long way from home. This is my final week of four weeks' holiday from work and possibly the last when people are going to be sensible about wearing masks and socially distancing so with good weather, and a breeze from the north, yesterday was the day to give it a go.​​I had prepared the night before but almost talked myself out of it when the alarm at 4.30am. I had to ride to Cramlington to get the train which is not a problem as that was my regular commute back in the day when I went to work in an office.​​




Waiting at Cramlington to heard north.​​I was quite surprised to see someone else waiting for the train, but as it turned out he was changing at Morpeth where he can get a mainline train. Cramlington is strictly local Northern trains only. I'm pretty sure that once he got off I was the only passenger on-board. The north bound "Chathill Flyer" becomes a busy commuter train on its return journey but I know there are few northbound passengers at that time of day and, indeed, it doesn't even stop at as many stations as the return service.​​Thirty-five minutes later we arrived in Chathill.​​









Obviously the station isn't manned - few of them on the line are - but someone takes a lot of care to make it nice with lots of plants in pots.​​Leaving the station next to the level crossing the NCN1 is clearly sign-posted. I'm five miles north of Embleton. The only time I've ridden in this area has been as part of the Great North Bike Ride which runs from Seahouses to Tynemouth. That's a great event but when there are so many other cyclists about and you're riding with other people it's difficult to just stop to take a photo or look at a bird or flower. So I was looking forward to pootling about doing what ever I fancied.​​The level crossing had closed to let a fast train through so I waited until the traffic (one vehicle) had cleared before heading off. I don't suppose those roads are ever very busy at that time in the morning and with many people working from home it was all pleasantly quiet. I had thought I might stop in Embleton but I was enjoying myself and kept going. Heading for Dunstan Steads I heard a bird calling and looked up spotted a woodpecker on a telegraph pole. He saw me and we spent a couple of minutes playing hide & seek as he poked his head out round the pole to see me and I moved to get a better view. When he flew off it was just to the next pole in the line.​​The GNBR route doesn't follow the NCN1 at all times & I don't remember going through a gate and apparently through the front garden of some farm cottages, This part of the route, on a lovely off-road track heads south with views of Dunstanburgh Castle to the east.​








Dunstanburgh is very much a ruin and is right on the coast north of Craster. It can be visited by walking from Craster village.​​At the end of the track I rejoined the road and continued. Still no traffic about & despite passing farm buildings I hadn't even seen any people since Embleton. As the NCN1 turns right to head towards Howick there is an option to turn down towards the coast at Craster so I did that to have a stop to have my second breakfast of the day.​​









Craster is a pretty fishing village famous for Craster Kippers. It gets busy with people visiting Dunstanburgh. There's a car park on the approach to the village and since my last visit they're changed the road layout to encourage most of the traffic straight into the car park and away from the village.​​Still not much sign of life - it was still only 7.30ish - but as I was leaving the village I did see a school bus for the first time. I saw him a couple of times elsewhere as he obviously travelled about collecting pupils. I wonder if he noticed he was seeing the same cyclist time and again.​​Coming out of Craster and turning south towards Howick I struggled up the hill. I might be able to ride longer distances but I'm still not good at hills! At Howick there is an option to take a diversion along the coast or stick to the roads on a slightly longer route. I decided to stay on the road. Looking at the Coast & Castles map (when I got home) I see the coast route is describe as "rough & steep in places" so I'm pleased I gave that a miss.​​The road route took me past Howick Hall. This was the home of Earl Grey - of tea fame & commemorated by Grey's Monument in Newcastle city centre. It now has gardens and an arboretum open to the public. It's famously locally for the displays of snowdrops and daffodills in the spring.​​The route then continues on through Longhoughton which used to be the location of accommodation for nearby RAF Boulmer. Though the RAF site is still open I don't think Longhoughton is still a military village. I have fond memories of Longhoughton as it was the location of one of the sheltered housing schemes where I taught residents to access the internet, use e-mail, Skype, etc. They were lovely people and it's a shame that the housing was closed a few years later.​​Then on past RAF Boulmer itself.​



I think the sign said this was a Phantom jet which ended its service at Boulmer. I must admit to being a bit wary about taking the photo with all the signs about razor wire and the official secrets act. And you hear of people being arrested and thrown into foreign jails for taking photos of military bases. But I figured they'd put the plane there for people to look at...​​Next stop was Alnmouth. I took a diversion into the village and this was the first time I saw any other cyclists. Alnmouth is a very pretty village on the Aln estuary. Another very popular tourist destination with access to the beach as well as walks along the river.​​

​This picture was taken from the path heading south to Warkworth and is similar to the view you get from the train as it passes. I always make a point of looking across at Alnmouth when I pass. It must be one of the prettiest villages on the coast.





The twisting, turning stretch of road from Hipsburn to Warkworth is rather tempting for fast drivers but there's a nice off-road path that runs alongside it. I don't know if its been upgraded since I last used it but the surface was much nicer than I remembered and it was a lovely ride. Part way along the route I came across a van emblazoned with Space for Shorebirds. Late last year I attended an online conference with a talk from one of their staff so when I saw them I took the opportunity to have a chat. They're working to educate people about using the coast safely to protect our wildlife from walkers, dogs, etc.​​To be continued...​​​


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