# Trice Front suspension



## Tilley (20 Aug 2017)

I have a 2009 Trice T and I would really like to upgrade to front suspension. I am a capable bicycle mechanic , but this is new territory and given the cost of the parts, I would welcome any support from anyone that has successfully completed this?


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## billym0404 (20 Aug 2017)

i cant help but would be interested in any info you get.


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## fixedfixer (20 Aug 2017)

Might not be the correct etiquette to link to another forum, but it was discussed on Bentrideronline (link below). 

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showthread.php?t=105117&highlight=Trike+suspension


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## 404 Not Found Anywhere (20 Aug 2017)

I've done it to my 2006 QNT: I anticipated a major job but had it finished in 40 minutes or so. 

It comes (if I recall corrrectly) with the usual very helpful ICE step by step guide. I spoke to them on the phone before ordering and they were (as ever) very helpful. 

If you've ever changed a headset you should be entirely comfortable with the process. Basically it involves removing the wheel, unhitching the track rod, dismantling the headset and swapping the new kingpin assembly after swapping the headset bearings for the aheadset ones (if your machine has aheadset bearings you don't even need to do this). Reattach the trackrods, refit the wheel, repeat for the other side. You shouldn't even need to adjust the tracking (but it's a good idea to check it anyway). You don't necessarily need them but a headset remover and a headset press will make the job much easier and reduce the risk of doing any damage. Otherwise the only tools you need are the relevant sizes of Allen keys and spanners. 

It's an expensive upgrade but I would do it again. The trike is much more comfortable, I can speed along on narrow Kojaks at 80 psi in the same comfort as I did on Big Apples at 30 psi, but faster and with much better handling. The trike definitely rides better on the worn out rural chipseal we have round here. I had a couple of Moultons before the trike, so needed little convincing of the benefits of suspended small wheels! There is a small weight penalty ( I think about 1 kg) but the improvement on rider comfort is worth it; I also think that reducing overall vibration levels should make the trike last longer.


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## cosmicbike (20 Aug 2017)

Can't help with the conversion, but my Trice Q (formerly owned by @trikeman of this parish) has the front suspension and is super comfy. Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the front at 90 psi and it's still all very nice.


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## Tilley (20 Aug 2017)

Thanks for the detailed response 404. How will I know if my machine has the aheadset headset bearings?


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## 404 Not Found Anywhere (20 Aug 2017)

Aheadset bearings are secured at the top by a clamp with a "star fanged nut" that adjusts the tension. The clamp has two 6mm Allen bolts securing it. I suspect you have threaded headsets like mine did, which are shiny silver and have flats on the two top locknuts for adjustment. There is a cap on the top with a single Allen bolt, but in this case it's just to blank off the top of the kingpin tube. 

Link to ICE Sprint with aheadset... https://goo.gl/images/Wc37gR


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## starhawk (21 Aug 2017)

I have a Trice Q from around 2009, I did the upgrade a couple of years ago. The main pain was those bearing cups which had to be knocked out, there is a special tool but no cycle repair shop had it, maybe because it is very expensive. The advise I got from them was to use a tube, in the end a used a different tool as the tubes available to me was to soft. As it was four cups to knock out it took me a couple of days. Pressing the new bearing cups in place was plain easy I used a large screw, four washer and a nut, they just slide in place with no effort to speak of . The rest was just following ICEs instruction and the first testride was bliss, there is a road near home that is a real washing board, not any more, the trike just floated over them! the comfort is just wonderful!


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## Tilley (21 Aug 2017)

Thanks for the feedback all I need to do now is contact Ice for the parts cost and take a deep breath.


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## Tilley (22 Aug 2017)

Well I spoke to Patrick at Ice and I now know the cost. However I am also now considering an FB Bracket to move the seat back. not because I have overly long legs but to increase rear wheel traction. I have on occasion lost traction on steep hills and think that this may alleviate the problem. Has anyone any experience of this?


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## billym0404 (22 Aug 2017)

your lucky as i also spoke to Patrick and mines to old  i also loss traction on steep gravely hills


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## Tigerbiten (23 Aug 2017)

It's fairly common to loose traction on steep hills if the surface is damp/greasy/gravel/etc.
If your first gear is low enough then it helps as you need less power to climb hills slower, so less torque. I noticed a difference when I dropped my first gear from 12.5" to 9.5".
If you think uphill is bad, then try stopping in the wet after your front brakes have failed. With frozen front cables/calipers your stopping distance suddenly becomes 10x longer.
One of the reasons I use Big Apples on the back of my Sprint is the layer of rubber making up the tread is nice and deep. So there is more to wear away before getting down to the carcass.

I've also stiffened my front suspension up by swapping the medium elastomers
for the hard ones. It makes the trike slightly more stable on the ultra high speeds (+40 mph) descents.

If you do move your seat/front boom backwards, be careful that you've enough room. Otherwise you may get heel strike on the cross members of the frame.


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## Nigelnightmare (24 Aug 2017)

Tilley said:


> Well I spoke to Patrick at Ice and I now know the cost. However I am also now considering an FB Bracket to move the seat back. not because I have overly long legs but to increase rear wheel traction. I have on occasion lost traction on steep hills and think that this may alleviate the problem. Has anyone any experience of this?



I have a 2007 QNT with the FB Bracket.
It does help with traction but not as much as I'd like because to have the seat reclined to the same angle the rear boom needs moving out making the wheelbase longer.

*EDIT "the rear rack prevents the use of the TT bracket, that's why the rear boom needed extending. With no rear rack use the TT bracket and put more weight over the rear wheel."*

The steering is a little lighter and the turning circle slightly larger, all in all worth it in my opinion.
Don't forget to adjust the handlebars back a little or you'll be reaching further forward with your arms. Took me a week to figure it out and get it comfy again.


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## Tilley (24 Aug 2017)

Thanks for that I was wondering about the carrier. Will need to experiment and see how I get on.


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## starhawk (25 Aug 2017)

Tigerbiten said:


> It's fairly common to loose traction on steep hills if the surface is damp/greasy/gravel/etc.
> If your first gear is low enough then it helps as you need less power to climb hills slower, so less torque.



I'm afraid you are wrong there, it will be less torque on the Bottom Bracket but at the wheel you will have the same torque, the torque needed to push the trike up the hill is still the same. The difference is that you will have to revolve the crank moore, "what you gain in power you loose in distance"


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## byegad (25 Aug 2017)

billym0404 said:


> your lucky as i also spoke to Patrick and mines to old  i also loss traction on steep gravely hills


Yes and it's a simple problem, the further behind the rider the rear wheel makes contact with the road the more likely you are to lose traction.
An ICE S (Very long) had far less grip then a Q or T model. Moreover my 2011 Catrike Trail has a rear wheel that's practically under the seat and has much better traction than my much longer 2007 ICE QNT. Moving the seat backwards will always help traction, but then so will a Big Apple tyre!
As to gearing I find a LOWER ratio will give a smoother torque, so keeping traction whereas with a HIGHER ratio in the same situation it is harder to give smooth torque and you will lose traction.I know the theory says there should be no difference, but in real life I've found it does.

For example.
Using 40 front to 20 rear (on a 20" rear wheel) and pedalling slowly my QNT would spin up the rear wheel on a greasy 25% gradient while on the same road, a few minutes later, using a 24-20 and spinning quickly it would glide up the same slope, _at the same road speed_!


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## Tilley (1 Sep 2017)

Seat bracket purchased second hand via another forum and successfully fitted with some adjustment of the carrier. Certainly makes the front end feel lighter and on the test ride appeared to make a difference whilst climbing.
Front suspension conversion just completed, but need to check tracking before I test ride. Bike now sits a little higher and the front mudguards will require some major adjustment before I can get them to fit.


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## Tilley (2 Sep 2017)

First short test ride in the dark and I can thoroughly recommend the suspension conversion, despite the eye watering cost. It is as good as everybody said it would be I no longer think about alternative routes to avoid poor road surfaces and whilst I still look out for potholes they are less jarring. I will need to adjust the mudguards as they are rubbing slightly but otherwise really pleased with the result.


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## 404 Not Found Anywhere (3 Sep 2017)

The downside (and it is only a minor one) is that the Trice mudguards are attached to the frame above the suspension and not below, as the HP Velotecnnik ones are. That makes the guards look ridiculously high above the wheels, but it should all settle down when you get aboard.


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## Tilley (7 Sep 2017)

All sorted and fully tested today with ascent of Draycott steep. The road had been resurfaced so was silky sooth, but as it had rained the road was still wet. No wheel spin so clean if slow ascent with no stops. Front suspension certainly proved its worth on the other roughly surfaced roads and tracks. Special note to anyone wanting to use the Strawberry line, due to water distribution works the tunnel and sections either side are closed, diversions are in place some across fields and using bridleways making life difficult, but not impossible on the trike.


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## Nigelnightmare (13 Sep 2017)

ICE do mudguard supports for suspension models that fits to the suspended part thus keeping the mudguards at the same distance from the tyres.

HTH

P.S.

You could always sell your old ones as most second hand trikes don't have them and in this country you need them!


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## Tigerbiten (13 Sep 2017)

Nigelnightmare said:


> ICE do mudguard supports for suspension models that fits to the suspended part thus keeping the mudguards at the same distance from the tyres.


It looks like a new bracket from the calliper mounts to the mudguard to replace the one off the headset. 
Difference in price between models is £25 if buying new. 
But I'm not sure how much extra vibration you'll have in the mudguards due to a longer bracket, so probably not as good if you mount lights to the mudguards.


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