# New CX frame and questions!



## Tim O'Reilly (15 Dec 2012)

Hi All,

Finally got my new CX frame, a Kinesis Pro6 kit and now starts the painful job of buying the components.
What I would like to know is, I have decided on a FSA compact crank with 34/50 rings. My qustion is, could I run a Shimano XT 10 speed cassette 34/11 with XT rear mech with the crank and with Shimano 105 STi's, all would be 10 speed stuff, but is this normal behavour? My mate who is into CX has told me to buy a 29/11 cassette, but the 34/11 or possibly a 36/11 cassette would give me a better range for the steep Yorkshire hills.
Thanks.


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## Alun (15 Dec 2012)

If the rear mech is XT "dyna-sys" then the cable pull will be incompatible with 105 shifters. You need a non dyna-sys rear mech such as a Deore, doesn't matter if its 9 or 10 speed one.


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## Tim O'Reilly (15 Dec 2012)

Alun said:


> If the rear mech is XT "dyna-sys" then the cable pull will be incompatible with 105 shifters. You need a non dyna-sys rear mech such as a Deore, doesn't matter if its 9 or 10 speed one.


Alun, Even if the 105 shifters are 10 speed as well to match a 10 speed rear mech?


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## Alun (15 Dec 2012)

Tim O'Reilly said:


> Alun, Even if the 105 shifters are 10 speed as well to match a 10 speed rear mech?


Yep, Dyna-sys is a MTB system and wasn't designed for 105 (road) shifters. Non dyna-sys MTB rear mechs happen to use the same cable pull as road shifters and are compatible. Obviously a 10 speed cassette needs a 10 speed shifter, but rear mechs can be either 9 or 10 speed. You will need an inline cable adjuster unless the rear mech has an adjuster which the 9 speed Deore does.


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## Tim O'Reilly (15 Dec 2012)

Thank you Alun!


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## Howard (23 Dec 2012)

Tim O'Reilly said:


> What I would like to know is, I have decided on a FSA compact crank with 34/50 rings. My qustion is, could I run a Shimano XT 10 speed cassette 34/11 with XT rear mech with the crank and with Shimano 105 STi's, all would be 10 speed stuff, but is this normal behavour?
> Thanks.


 
The answer is... it depends. I'd lean towards 'No'.

If you are touring the alps with it, with 50kg of luggage, it's possibly a justifiable choice. In the UK, for general road riding, you'd find the gaps between the ratios very, very irritating. For cross racing it would be a terrible choice as most of the ratios on the little ring would be slower than running. 

For road riding stick with a normal road set-up - compact cranks and 11-28 if it's hilly. For cross, go for a cross chainset, 36/44.


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## Tim O'Reilly (26 Dec 2012)

Thanks Howard!
Another question if I may? What stem length is considered normal for CX and bar choice as riding drop bars is going to be a new experience for me as I only ride flat bars/mountain bikes?


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## black'n'yellow (26 Dec 2012)

there is no 'normal' length for any stem - you need to work out what is the best length for you.


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## jdtate101 (27 Dec 2012)

Most cross bikes come with a cross specific crankset 46/36 with something like a 11-28 on the back, this give more than enough range to cope with most hills. Now, if you're going to use this mainly on the road and not across fields then a compact 50/34 may give you more range top and bottom, but either will be fully compatible with a 10 speed front and rear derailleur set. Pair these with your 105 shifters and you're good to go.
If your frame supports disc brakes, look at avid BB5 or BB7, if rim brakes look at tektro CR720's. For the stem, one thing to remember is that cross bike geometry is genrally more upright, so don't get a stem that racks you out too much, I think mine is a 90mm. Pair the stem with a good Alu bar like a deda RHM01 or newton should see it complete. Saddle wise, well thats a personal choice, so go with what's comfortable and what you have used before on other bikes.
Tyres....If you are going to use it mainly on road, then look at something like Conti speed kings (good road compromise tyre), or if you want some off road capability then something like Vittoria CX Pro XG's. Wheels....I would get some good, strong 36 hole rims for strength with sealed hubs.


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## Howard (28 Dec 2012)

Stem length - as above - you want to be aiming for something that gives you an upright posture in comparison to the 'long and low' road bike posture. Start with something short and see how it feels in comparison to your MTB - 70, 80 or 90mm. Make sure the bar you get isn't too narrow or it will make the bike feel twitchy with the short stem. 42 or 44cm if you are a big chap.

This all depends on how well the frame you bought fits you though. Good luck!


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## Tim O'Reilly (30 Dec 2012)

Thanks All.
Gone for a standard 90cm stem to see how that feels!
I've now ordered my wheels! I've gone for Mavic Open Pro's in silver with red 36 hole Hope pro 2 evo hubs. I've chosen these rims because I wanted a rim that I could swap between road and cross tyres! They are also very versatile and light.
The handlebar will probably be wider rather than narrower.


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## black'n'yellow (30 Dec 2012)

most road rims will take a cross tyre without issue...


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## Tim O'Reilly (5 Jan 2013)

Now got most of the parts except the wheels which will be ready next week.
A few pictures to take the Michael.


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## Tim O'Reilly (5 Jan 2013)

Alun said:


> If the rear mech is XT "dyna-sys" then the cable pull will be incompatible with 105 shifters. You need a non dyna-sys rear mech such as a Deore, doesn't matter if its 9 or 10 speed one.


I ended up with this mech. I'm not sure if this is Dyna-sys? The info on the mech doesn't mention it.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20698


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## Alun (6 Jan 2013)

Tim O'Reilly said:


> I ended up with this mech. I'm not sure if this is Dyna-sys? The info on the mech doesn't mention it.
> 
> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=20698


That should be OK, Dyna Sys are 10 speed like this one, http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=83162
You'll probably need an in-line cable adjuster !


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## Howard (6 Jan 2013)

Out of interest, why did you go withe the MTB mech?

Frame looks nice!


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## Tim O'Reilly (6 Jan 2013)

Howard said:


> Out of interest, why did you go withe the MTB mech?
> 
> Frame looks nice!


Hi Howard,
I was going for the standard 28-11 cassette combo, but a few mates talk my into the 34-11 with a MBT rear mech. If it gets to the point that I don't require the 34 gearing then possibly a change, but let's see how I go. I do ride a lot of very steep tracks and other mates don't do it on their CX bikes but I do on a rigid 29er with a 1 x 10 gearing with 36 at front and a 36-11 back. I suppose I'm still a mountain biker at heart, but let us see!


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## Globalti (7 Jan 2013)

Having taken my Specialized tricross (not a real crosser, more cross-purpose) out on a MTB club night ride I can tell you that on standard road compact gearing you would be romping up the hills that they are plodding up; mostly because of your lighter weight but also because your stiff and efficient rear triangle will make getting out of the saddle worthwhile.


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## Howard (7 Jan 2013)

Fair enough. Maybe run it 1*10 with a 39 tooth ring. If you need more than 39/34 then just shoulder the bike and run!


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## Tim O'Reilly (12 Jan 2013)

99% finished, just the usual finishing touches to sort out after the first ride.


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## 2old2care (13 Jan 2013)

really nice bike, just out of interest how much does it weigh?


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## Tim O'Reilly (13 Jan 2013)

It was never built to be a super light bike but something that could take some hard work! I did weigh it at the LBS and it comes in at just over 21 lb's. I'll running it with quite heavy tyres at the moment but I have some light CX pro's to put on at a later time. That will lose me 1 lb.


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## Psycolist (12 Feb 2013)

Thats a sweet lookin bike fella,  If I may be rude and to the point, what was the bottom figure on the purchases list Dribbling over those wheel hubs BTW


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## Tim O'Reilly (1 Mar 2013)

Well, I wasn't over impressed with the brakes so I saved my pennies! I'll let you know what they are like after they bed in.
Here they are!


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## fossala (1 Mar 2013)

Looking good, what are the weight of the wheels?


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## Christopher (1 Mar 2013)

hi Tim
Very nice! But please let us know what you think of those Hope hydros, as I have a frame + forks like yours that will take discs but it isn't built. I have seen them used in CX racing but hand't a chance to speak to the riders using them.


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## Tim O'Reilly (2 Mar 2013)

fossala said:


> Looking good, what are the weight of the wheels?


Hi,
The wheels weigh around 1750g for the pair. The Open Pro rims weigh around 400 grams each so they are not the lightest but they will allow me several choices of tyres to suit my needs from 23mm road to a nice chunky off road tyre around 38mm.


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## Tim O'Reilly (2 Mar 2013)

Christopher said:


> hi Tim
> Very nice! But please let us know what you think of those Hope hydros, as I have a frame + forks like yours that will take discs but it isn't built. I have seen them used in CX racing but hand't a chance to speak to the riders using them.


Just back in from my first ride with the V-Twins and they are just about starting to bite nicely. At first they didn't seem any better than the cable disc brakes but they are! The rear wheel has started to lock up if you give it too much so that's a good sign. I'll let you know after tomorrow's ride of any improvement.


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## Sillyoldman (3 Mar 2013)

that sir is a truely beautiful bike.


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## Andrew Br (4 Mar 2013)

Many thanks for posting these pictures; it really is a gorgeous looking bike.

I'm grateful because I was in the LBS on Saturday to discuss some new wheels. I've opted for the Hope hubs and rotors that you've got. I asked for red although I was worried that they might be too bling.
Your pictures show that they won't be.
I need to remember to ask for red quick releases as well !

.


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## Howard (4 Mar 2013)

Tim O'Reilly said:


> Just back in from my first ride with the V-Twins and they are just about starting to bite nicely. At first they didn't seem any better than the cable disc brakes but they are! The rear wheel has started to lock up if you give it too much so that's a good sign. I'll let you know after tomorrow's ride of any improvement.


 
Might be worth running a V-brake noodle into the V-twin unit - smooths the crazy cable bend and reduces compression.


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## Tim O'Reilly (4 Mar 2013)

Howard said:


> Might be worth running a V-brake noodle into the V-twin unit - smooths the crazy cable bend and reduces compression.


Hi Howard,

Funny you say that because I've re routed and replaced the inner cables tonight because I wasn't happy with the hard feeling when braking from the brake lever. I even put the larger spacer onto the 105 shifter to try and give me a larger handful of lever from riding on the hoods. Braking from lower down is not a problem but you hardly ride that low anyway. I unwrapped the bar tape and have tried to slacken the cable to give a lighter feel. I think I have improved it slightly but I like the sound of your suggestion. How would you do it and would you try some of that expensive Gore outer cable to reduce the resistance?

What do you think?

Thanks Howard


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## Tim O'Reilly (4 Mar 2013)

Andrew Br said:


> Many thanks for posting these pictures; it really is a gorgeous looking bike.
> 
> I'm grateful because I was in the LBS on Saturday to discuss some new wheels. I've opted for the Hope hubs and rotors that you've got. I asked for red although I was worried that they might be too bling.
> Your pictures show that they won't be.
> ...


What rims have you gone for?


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## Andrew Br (5 Mar 2013)

Tim O'Reilly said:


> What rims have you gone for?


 
Velocity A23.
I've been seduced by the "wider rim, better aerodynamics" bullshit information.
Since I'm currently running 28mm tyres on my road machine (On One Dirty Disco), I'm either way ahead of the curve or I'm lugging too much rubber around.

.


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## Tim O'Reilly (5 Mar 2013)

Well,
I have again re routed the brake cable but this time I have used 90 degree noodles and decent XTR outer cable I had. The resistance is definitely better from doing this. I've been out again riding and braking hard and they are now biting well. The front will even lift the back end so the power is getting there and I'm confident that it will even improve after it picks up some dirt and muck. The feeling from the brake lever is still something that you have to get used to. It's not a cable or a full hydraulic brake system so the pulling on and the release/return of the brake lever is not crisp. I suppose you are relying on the pistons in the V Twin in controlling this action on the levers!
Regards,

Tim.


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## Christopher (7 Mar 2013)

Cheers Tim! Interesting post - my sister's mtb has full hydraulic discs and they are lovely brakes and don't have the release problem you describe - although it's far too easy to displace the pistons whent he wheels are off. Think I might hold off on the hydraulics for the moment.


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## Howard (7 Mar 2013)

Glad it's working better with the noodles.


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## Tim O'Reilly (7 Mar 2013)

Christopher said:


> Cheers Tim! Interesting post - my sister's mtb has full hydraulic discs and they are lovely brakes and don't have the release problem you describe - although it's far too easy to displace the pistons whent he wheels are off. Think I might hold off on the hydraulics for the moment.


Chris, Don't let me put you off the Hope V Twin's because I haven't heard a bad thing so far about them. As I said, it's something different from the conventional hydraulic mountain bike brake that I am used to, so yes, it has been a learning curve for me but I am getting my head around the feeling of them now.


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## Tim O'Reilly (9 Mar 2013)

Finally, 100% happy now with the Hope brakes and the cable routing.
Here it is!


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## TeeNoM (13 Mar 2013)

Very nice.


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## TeeNoM (14 Mar 2013)

Can I ask how much this lot set you back in total?
Maybe if you wouldn't mind, could you post a complete spec list.

Cheers


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## Tim O'Reilly (14 Mar 2013)

*FRAMESET.* Kinesis Pro 6
*SADDLE,STEM,BARS AND SEATPOST.* Planet X
*DRIVE.* Shimano 105 sti's, Shimano cx70 front mech, Shimano xt 9 speed rear mech, 10 speed xt cassette 34-11 and Sram compact 34/50 crank.
*BRAKES.* Hope V Twin's with Hope red floating rotors.
*WHEELS.* Mavic Open Pro rims 36 hole built onto Hope Red Evo Pro 2 hubs with red skewers. (locally built).


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## Andrew Br (28 Mar 2013)

Without wishing to hijack Tim's thread, I picked up my new wheels today.
Pictures:-




DSC_0280 by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr




DSC_0276 by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr




13-03-28 Dirty Disco Hope hubs Velocity A23 by Chocolatebike1, on Flickr

They'll have their first ride tomorrow.

.


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## Tim O'Reilly (29 Mar 2013)

I approve! Red is obviously the new IN.


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## Moss (26 Apr 2013)

Nice CX Bike; did a good job on the build! Must have cost you a fortune in mind changing on what parts to put on? take off? replace.Etc...


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## Tim O'Reilly (27 Apr 2013)

Moss said:


> Nice CX Bike; did a good job on the build! Must have cost you a fortune in mind changing on what parts to put on? take off? replace.Etc...


Moss,
Just started with the frameset and went from there really looking for the best deals around on the parts chosen after asking the right questions on here. It's a great bike both on and off the road and looks even better covered in mud! As for cost, not cheap, but it's a one off!


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## Psycolist (27 Apr 2013)

Tim O'Reilly said:


> Moss,
> As for cost, not cheap, but it's a one off!


And that is the main reason for 'self build' IMHO No one else has got one like it, and that gives a unique satisfaction. Have you thought about a name at all ??


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