# Recumbent chain replacement.



## BlackPanther (12 Feb 2012)

It's a long way off as my Strada is still sub 500 miles but when the chain needs replacing, do we just join chains together or is it better to buy a chain of the correct length form a 'specialist' ?

I've always used Wippermann 808 chains on my hybrid and road bike. The connex link is perfect for chain removal and cleaning, but the Strada has an S-ram chain. I removed it for cleaning yesterday without too much of a problem (although the S-ram power link is harder to split than the Connex).

Surely when the time comes I can just use Connex or powerlinks to join 3 chains together? Or am I missing something?


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## ufkacbln (12 Feb 2012)

Exactly what I do. Buy the chains and then link using appropriate powerlinks.

Otherwise no different form changing the chain on any other bike or trike


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## byegad (12 Feb 2012)

Yup take care to get the new chain length right and note how many links you leave off the third chain, so you know next time. I now run all my trikes with a chain long enough to do big/big and not too slack to do little/little combinations.


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## markg0vbr (12 Feb 2012)

little/little is handy for riding on un sealed paths on low slung trikes as it gets the chain up away from the muck.
with such a long run of chain you don't have to worry about keeping the chain as straight as possible like a df.
i will not get in to the hole chain cleaning thing; but you should find it will take less cleaning on a recumbent as the front wheel is not throwing muck on to the chain.

bacchetta don't have chain tubes but for those that do remember to clean them when you do the chain, i just put a bit of rag through the chain and turn the crank and keep replacing the rag until it comes through clean.

the only other thing to consider is a chain catcher as the chain coming off the front cogs of a high racer while clipped in can be embarrassing limp..... limp.... limp.
some recumbents have a bit of a habit of this as they have such a wide gear spread, on the front gears.


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## ufkacbln (12 Feb 2012)

I have a 34/83 on the front og=f the Gekko with a straight chain run!

The Schlumpf HSD is a nice piece of kit


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## BlackPanther (12 Feb 2012)

Cunobelin said:


> I have a 34/83 on the front og=f the Gekko with a straight chain run!
> 
> The Schlumpf HSD is a nice piece of kit


 
83! Is this a misprint?


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## Tigerbiten (13 Feb 2012)

BlackPanther said:


> 83! Is this a misprint?


Yes.

The High Speed Drive is a bottom bracket hub drive a 2.5x step up in it.
So 34 x 2.5 = 85.
It's small by 2 teeth ........ 

I run 30/75 in front with a HSD.


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## ufkacbln (13 Feb 2012)

The Bu88ers lied!

I run the 34 to meet with the Rohloff limitations on Torque.


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## Tigerbiten (13 Feb 2012)

Cunobelin said:


> The Bu88ers lied!
> 
> I run the 34 to meet with the Rohloff limitations on Torque.


I ignored the Rohloff torque limit when I built my trike.
Hence my touring setup is 30/16 on 50-406 tyres to give me a 10" bottom gear.
I just have to take it easy up steep hills and hope for the best.

If you want to have "FUN" in the likes of Halfords.
Find a sales assistent who doesn't know a lot and ask for a 400 link long recumbent chain.
Then see if they go off to try and find one ........


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## ufkacbln (14 Feb 2012)

I also shortened the cranks to 155mm and this has made a difference to my riding style with a higher cadence


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## arallsopp (14 Feb 2012)

I've said it before, I'll say it again. Take photos if you're in any doubt as to whether the replacement chain should go up and over that one, through there and down and under that one and round there. 

Much easier if you've got a reference. And if you find you don't need the pic. Delete it afterwards.

Oh, and have a piece of coathanger wire handy to hold the ends in place whilst you're fishing around for the connector. There's nothing quite so annoying as hearing the freewheel click excitedly as all your careful threading runs undone.

Andy.


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## BlackPanther (14 Feb 2012)

arallsopp said:


> I've said it before, I'll say it again. Take photos if you're in any doubt as to whether the replacement chain should go up and over that one, through there and down and under that one and round there.
> 
> Much easier if you've got a reference. And if you find you don't need the pic. Delete it afterwards.
> 
> ...


 

I did take pictures. I started doing this after I was completely perplexed when changing the chainrings on my road bike. It took a while to realise that a ring goes either side of the arms, not both on the same side! Doh!

Good idea with the coat hanger. I've always pulled and held the tension by hand. Not a prob with the oh so easy connex link, but Sram powerlinks are a lot more tricky.


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## ufkacbln (14 Feb 2012)

BlackPanther said:


> I did take pictures. I started doing this after I was completely perplexed when changing the chainrings on my road bike. It took a while to realise that a ring goes either side of the arms, not both on the same side! Doh!
> 
> Good idea with the coat hanger. I've always pulled and held the tension by hand. Not a prob with the oh so easy connex link, but Sram powerlinks are a lot more tricky.


 


T'other quick tip is fishing line!

Tie a length to the old chain when you pull it out of a chain tube, then tie on to the new one and use the line to pull it through. Much quicker than feeding it in.

... and then use the coat hanger to stop it disappearing back in.


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