# How much pressure?



## Glasgow44 (6 Jan 2017)

I've got a Giant Defy 2 road bike with Presta valves and a Specialized Sirrus Sport hybrid with Schrader valves. I've invested in a Joeblow track pump and so far, so good. 

I have a few questions about tyre pressure:

How much pressure should I have in the tyres on my road bike?
How much pressure should I have in the tyres on my hybrid bike when not carrying panniers?
How much pressure should I have in the tyres on my hybrid bike when carrying fully laden panniers (for example on my coast to coast cycle?)

I think the pressure gauge is measured in Bar/PSI on the Joeblow pump?!

Thanks in advance for all your help


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## Drago (6 Jan 2017)

Depends on how heavy you are, the tyres and their sizes, the riding you do, and your personal preferences.


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## Glasgow44 (6 Jan 2017)

Drago said:


> Depends on how heavy you are, the tyres and their sizes, the riding you do, and your personal preferences.



I'm about 5'6 and 11.5 stone and I like my tyres to be firm so as to avoid punctures as best I can


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## mark st1 (6 Jan 2017)

Bring on the cc pro's


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## ColinJ (6 Jan 2017)

Only you can say!

Or to put it another way - if somebody suggested some actual pressures and you tried those but didn't like them, would you stick with what you 'should' be using or would you change to something else?

Ah, @Drago has got in ahead of me while I was typing ...

If you increase pressures too much then you will feel every bump in the road. If you decrease them too much then the tyres will not roll properly and you will suffer from pinch punctures when you hit big bumps. The 'correct' pressure is somewhere in between. Experiment and see what suits you.

I suggest starting with pressures a bit below the maximum printed on the tyrewalls. If you are ok with those, fine. If you are uncomfortable, let 5 psi out and see how you get on with the new pressures. Repeat until happy.

I would suggest putting 5-10 psi more in the rear tyre than the front because more of your weight is on the rear.


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## vickster (6 Jan 2017)

What does it say on the tyres?
What have you been doing up to now? How has it been?
Maybe try a midpoint or a bit above and see how it feels? 
Not an exact science


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## Glasgow44 (6 Jan 2017)

ColinJ said:


> Only you can say!
> 
> Or to put it another way - if somebody suggested some actual pressures and you tried those but didn't like them, would you stick with what you 'should' be using or would you change to something else?
> 
> ...




Thanks for that.


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## Glasgow44 (6 Jan 2017)

vickster said:


> What does it say on the tyres?
> Maybe try a midpoint or a bit above and see how it feels? Not an exact science



I can't see to be honest - its all rubbed away or maybe its my eyesight!

My road bike has Continental Gatorskin Hardshell Tyres 25mm and my hybrid has Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres 700 x 32


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## Racing roadkill (6 Jan 2017)

100-110 psi for the road bike, 50 psi for the Hybrid.


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## Pale Rider (6 Jan 2017)

Mostly down to your preference, as has been said.

As a starting point, your Marathon Pluses have a range of 50-85psi.

Best to stick within that, although nothing much would go wrong if you went a bit higher or lower.

It's worth experimenting, I can tell the difference of 10psi so that's by how much I would suggest changing the pressure to establish your preference.

https://www.schwalbe.com/gb/tour-reader/marathon-plus.html


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## Ian193 (6 Jan 2017)

Glasgow44 said:


> I can't see to be honest - its all rubbed away or maybe its my eyesight!
> 
> My road bike has Continental Gatorskin Hardshell Tyres 25mm and my hybrid has Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres 700 x 32



The MAXIMUM on your road bike is 120psi I have 100 psi in both my tyres that works for me


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## Markymark (6 Jan 2017)

I always go to the top amount of the range stated in the tyre wall.


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## vickster (6 Jan 2017)

Don't think he'd need to being small and quite light at 11.5 stone


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## vickster (6 Jan 2017)

Glasgow44 said:


> I can't see to be honest - its all rubbed away or maybe its my eyesight!
> 
> My road bike has Continental Gatorskin Hardshell Tyres 25mm and my hybrid has Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres 700 x 32


JFGI for the pressures for those tyres


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## S-Express (6 Jan 2017)

Markymark said:


> I always go to the top amount of the range stated in the tyre wall.



That's a bit like saying "I always drive at 150mph because that's the highest number on my speedo"


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## gavroche (6 Jan 2017)

I put 110psi at back and 100 on front on 23 mm all conditions tyres. Same with my 25mm tyres on my Giant Defy.


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## Markymark (6 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> That's a bit like saying "I always drive at 150mph because that's the highest number on my speedo"


No it's not. That's stupid. Driving at 150 can easily kill you or others as you can't control a car at the speed on uk roads. Pumping your tyres to that won't.


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## ColinJ (6 Jan 2017)

[QUOTE 4627621, member: 9609"]I buggered a rim doing that, apparently the rim had a lower rating than the tyre. (I never knew rims had ratings)
[/QUOTE]
My old Campagnolo Proton wheels had pressure limits lower then the limit on the tyres that I was using at the time. I can't remember exactly what the limit(s) were but of the order of 105-110 psi for the wheels and 10-15 psi more for the tyres. It didn't bother me because I use lower tyre pressures than that anyway.


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## hatler (6 Jan 2017)

I always pump them to the max rating simply because it means I have to deploy the track pump less frequently.


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## S-Express (6 Jan 2017)

Markymark said:


> No it's not. That's stupid. Driving at 150 can easily kill you or others as you can't control a car at the speed on uk roads. Pumping your tyres to that won't.



I was speaking metaphorically, just in case there was any real doubt. Just because your tyres suggest a max of 120psi (for instance) is not a recommendation that you run them at that pressure.


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## S-Express (6 Jan 2017)

hatler said:


> I always pump them to the max rating simply because it means I have to deploy the track pump less frequently.



Again, that's completely flawed, unfathomable logic.


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## NorthernDave (6 Jan 2017)

I run Conti Gatorskins on the road bikes and have found that 110psi front _and_ rear works quite nicely for me as I do like a hard ride and the satisfying 'ping' you get as chippings are fired out from the side of the tyre 

On the hybrid (Schwalbe Land Cruisers), I've got them pumped up to the max, which I think is 65psi (but can't be bothered to go downstairs and check, sorry)

Mind you, I am more comfortably upholstered than the OP... and as lots of people have said it's about finding what works best for you.


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## Ajax Bay (6 Jan 2017)

Glasgow44 said:


> My road bike has Continental Gatorskin Hardshell Tyres 25mm and my hybrid has Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres 700 x 32


You plus bike is 73kg + (say) 10kg for the Giant Defy 2 road bike 12kg for the Specialized Sirrus Sport hybrid.
Taking a load split of 40% front, 60% rear (NB will be 5% less and more if you commute with loaded panniers, see article), gives 33kg/50kg for the Defy (25mm wide tyres) and 34/51kg for the Sirrus (32mm wide tyres). From the graph on the BQ authority article (attached, the recommended pressures are Defy F 72psi R 98psi and Sirrus F 44psi R 63psi. If you want to stay in the quoted range for the M+ on the front, make that 50psi.
For every kg the rider is heavier (eg than 73kg) add one psi to both back and front (for 25s, but good enough as a general rule of thumb).
HTH


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## raleighnut (6 Jan 2017)

[QUOTE 4627621, member: 9609"]I buggered a rim doing that, apparently the rim had a lower rating than the tyre. (I never knew rims had ratings)


I'm sorry officer but it says I can go that fast on my trunks[/QUOTE]





Or is that 'in your trunks'


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## nickyboy (6 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Again, that's completely flawed, unfathomable logic.



Whilst the "logic" is flawed (keeping tyres at higher pressure means you have to pump them up more often to maintain the pressure)...................you don't think he was making a joke do you?


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## S-Express (6 Jan 2017)

nickyboy said:


> Whilst the "logic" is flawed (keeping tyres at higher pressure means you have to pump them up more often to maintain the pressure)...................you don't think he was making a joke do you?



Let's hope so..


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## Dogtrousers (7 Jan 2017)

Why do manufacturers make the recommended pressures so hard to read? I fitted a new (to me) type of tyre recently, and had to shine a torch obliquely over the rubber to decipher it.

Yes I am a speccy four eyes old fart which doesn't help.


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## r04DiE (7 Jan 2017)

Glasgow44 said:


> I've got a Giant Defy 2 road bike with Presta valves and a Specialized Sirrus Sport hybrid with Schrader valves. I've invested in a Joeblow track pump and so far, so good.
> 
> I have a few questions about tyre pressure:
> 
> ...


I'd read the max pressure on the tyres and just put that in them whether you're on your own, with panniers, whatever. I just tend to make the contact patch as small as I can, ='ing less resistance.


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## Accy cyclist (7 Jan 2017)

Dogtrousers said:


> Why do manufacturers make the recommended pressures so hard to read? I fitted a new (to me) type of tyre recently, and had to shine a torch obliquely over the rubber to decipher it.
> 
> Yes I am a speccy four eyes old fart which doesn't help.


Just like me! I also shine that torch to see!


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

r04DiE said:


> I'd read the max pressure on the tyres and just put that in them whether you're on your own, with panniers, whatever. I just tend to make the contact patch as small as I can, ='ing less resistance.


Is this another wind-up?


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## r04DiE (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Is this another wind-up?


No. Why?


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

r04DiE said:


> No. Why?



Because a smaller contact patch does not necessarily equal less rolling resistance. There's so much more to it than that. In many cases, a tyre with lower pressure will roll better than the same tyre at a higher pressure. This is not new information, by the way.


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## CanucksTraveller (7 Jan 2017)

NorthernDave said:


> ...front _and_ rear works quite nicely for me as I do like a hard ride....



Paging @Fnaar to the pressure thread, that's Fnaar to the pressure thread, double entendre waiting, thank you.


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## r04DiE (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Because a smaller contact patch does not necessarily equal less rolling resistance. There's so much more to it than that. In many cases, a tyre with lower pressure will roll better than the same tyre at a higher pressure. This is not new information, by the way.


It's new information to me so perhaps I should apologise for my ignorance.


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## User6179 (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Because a smaller contact patch does not necessarily equal less rolling resistance. There's so much more to it than that. In many cases, a tyre with lower pressure will roll better than the same tyre at a higher pressure. This is not new information, by the way.



Have you any data to back that up? , all the data I have saw says the opposite!

http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Eddy said:


> Have you any data to back that up?



Data to back it up? I thought it was common knowledge. All things being equal, on a smooth surface, a tyre will roll better at high pressure. Which is why trackies tend to go for high pressures (ie 120+) and (conversely) why P-R riders tend to go for wider tyres at lower pressures. On a 'real world' road surface, with all its various imperfections, a lower pressure will allow the casing to deflect more, thereby enabling the tyre to absorb road shocks, rather than bounce over them. Bouncing obviously diverts the wheel upwards, rather than forwards.

A quick scan through google should be all you need.


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## User6179 (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Data to back it up? I thought it was common knowledge. All things being equal, on a smooth surface, a tyre will roll better at high pressure. Which is why trackies tend to go for high pressures (ie 120+) and (conversely) why P-R riders tend to go for wider tyres at lower pressures. On a 'real world' road surface, with all its various imperfections, a lower pressure will allow the casing to deflect more, thereby enabling the tyre to absorb road shocks, rather than bounce over them. Bouncing obviously diverts the wheel upwards, rather than forwards.
> 
> A quick scan through google should be all you need.




That was not what you said though , you said

"a tyre with lower pressure will roll better than the same tyre at a higher pressure" 

Which is incorrect !


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Eddy said:


> That was not what you said though , you said
> 
> "a tyre with lower pressure will roll better than the same tyre at a higher pressure"
> 
> Which is incorrect !



Except I preceded that statement with the phrase _"In many cases"_ - maybe you forgot to read that bit?


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## simongt (7 Jan 2017)

After blowing out a 120 psi tyre inflated to it's max, going over a number of cattle grids in about a mile. I now, on sage advice from a VERY good LBS, now inflate to 10 psi below the max stated on the tyre wall. Seems to do the business for me.


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## r04DiE (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> _... "In many cases"_...


Well where is your evidence to support that this is true then? i.e. that it is commonly the case?


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## mark st1 (7 Jan 2017)

r04DiE said:


> Well where is your evidence to support that this is true then? i.e. that it is commonly the case?



You'd have more luck with a brick wall tbh.


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## User6179 (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Except I preceded that statement with the phrase _"In many cases"_ - maybe you forgot to read that bit?



Could you name one case ?


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

Eddy said:


> Have you any data to back that up? , all the data I have saw says the opposite!


and @r04DiE
This article gives some useful arguments (if not data) on which @S-Express may be drawing (albeit with careless phrasing), and I recommend it to you. The main argument is that by running wider tyres at lower pressures you reduce the suspension losses in the rider/bike combo and thus real rolling resistance is reduced. On a smooth drum (ie the rollingresistance.com tests) rollingresistance reduces very slightly as the pressure on the same tyre is increased - but this higher pressure results in more, for want of a better word, 'bouncing' on rough surfaces (eg roads) which actually means a narrower tyre at higher pressure (to avoid pinch flats) is 'slower'. Edit: this may be @S-Express "in many cases' ie not on tracks.

At higher speeds (eg 45+kph) aero aspects may come into play, and wider tyres tend to be heavier (which may be an issue if lots of acceleration involved - as opposed to steady riding). It would be excellent if tyre manufacturers of the good road tyres (Michelin, Continental, Vittoria, Schwalbe et al) made 28s which measured 28 and 32s in the same 'road tyre' range, as opposed to the step across (ie not up) to the fastest but heavier 'touring' tyres eg M Supremes.


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Eddy said:


> Could you name one case ?


 I already named one example - Paris/Roubaix. Maybe you missed that as well.


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Ajax Bay said:


> This article gives some useful arguments (if not data) on which @S-Express may be drawing



I'm not drawing from anything in particular - I honestly thought this was a generally-known thing. I don't know any riders that don't already understand this stuff. Except some on here, clearly.

Here's an interesting article from Hunt, which does describe the issue better. https://www.huntbikewheels.com/pages/recommended-tyre-pressures

Let the post-rationalisation and cognitive dissonance commence...


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Another explanation of the same 'black magic, wizardry and general heresy' here: https://cyclingtips.com/2009/03/what-is-the-optimal-tyre-pressure/


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

Glasgow44 said:


> How much pressure should I have in the tyres on my hybrid bike when carrying fully laden panniers (for example on my coast to coast cycle?)


Realise that in my Post #25 (hope useful) I did not directly answer Q3 (above).

Rider plus bike is 73kg + (say) 12kg for the Specialized Sirrus Sport hybrid plus 15kg in the panniers = total load 100kg. 
Taking a load split of 35% front, 65% rear (assume rear panniers only, bar bag will make little difference as not filled with heavy stuff) (NB see article), gives 35kg/65kg for the Sirrus (32mm wide tyres). From the graph on the BQ authority article F 45psi R 84psi. If you want to stay in the quoted range for the M+ on the front, make that 50psi.


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

mark st1 said:


> You'd have more luck with a brick wall tbh.



How's that wall coming on..?

Another article on the same: http://triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2011/05/03/facts-figures-myths-optimum-tyre-pressure

I know they're triathletes, but we can forgive them for now..


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Here's an interesting article from Hunt, which does describe the issue better. https://www.huntbikewheels.com/pages/recommended-tyre-pressures


Pretty useless article imo. Hunt give no rationale for their recommendations or their front rear split. You can work out your front rear split (help needed) by getting on your bike, putting the (bathroom) scales beneath each wheel in turn, being supported adopt your 'riding position' of choice (eg on the hoods) and reading off the results. The BQ article which I attached in my post #25 gives the 'normal' splits for the different types of rider (randonneur, racing, city).
The other article quoted https://cyclingtips.com/2009/03/what-is-the-optimal-tyre-pressure/ has a better discussion of the issue, but then goes Aussy-wishy-washy over pressure recommendations.
Jan Heine's article "tire-pressure-take-home"


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## mark st1 (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> How's that wall coming on..?
> 
> Another article on the same: http://triathlete-europe.competitor.com/2011/05/03/facts-figures-myths-optimum-tyre-pressure
> 
> I know they're triathletes, but we can forgive them for now..



I've no doubt you know your stuff but your attitude sucks shoot. You talk to people like shoot and you come across just wrong on an internet based forum. I'm yet to have the pleasure to meet you in real life so I'd like to give you the benefit of the doubt. 99.9 % positive this isn't your first account on this forum though


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

mark st1 said:


> You'd have more luck with a brick wall tbh.


I note the forthright activity you have managed to elicit with your 'wall' assertion and shall try that with @S-Express in future. You have done much better than I did in the 'road buzz' thread. Having tossed the 'just google it' your way, he's found some stuff, some useful, some not, and shared it.
Hope you get out for a ride tomorrow.


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

mark st1 said:


> I've no doubt you know your stuff


Credit where credit's due, please.


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

mark st1 said:


> I've no doubt you know your stuff but your attitude sucks shoot. You talk to people like shoot and you come across just wrong on an internet based forum. I'm yet to have the pleasure to meet you in real life so I'd like to give you the benefit of the doubt. 99.9 % positive this isn't your first account on this forum though



The thing is mate - I'm not here to be your friend - or anyone elses. Ironically, your responses to me have been far more discourteous than any reply I have posted on this thread, including your initial post, which was nothing more than an ad hominem which added nothing. People asked for clarification of my earlier comments and that is exactly what I am providing. Do me a favour - go out for a ride tomorrow around the lanes of 'leafy Berkshire' (I know it well) with your tyres inflated to 150psi - hopefully your dentures will fall out.


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## User6179 (7 Jan 2017)

Ajax Bay said:


> and @r04DiE
> This article gives some useful arguments (if not data) on which @S-Express may be drawing (albeit with careless phrasing), and I recommend it to you. The main argument is that by running wider tyres at lower pressures you reduce the suspension losses in the rider/bike combo and thus real rolling resistance is reduced. On a smooth drum (ie the rollingresistance.com tests) rollingresistance reduces very slightly as the pressure on the same tyre is increased - but this higher pressure results in more, for want of a better word, 'bouncing' on rough surfaces (eg roads) which actually means a narrower tyre at higher pressure (to avoid pinch flats) is 'slower'. Edit: this may be @S-Express "in many cases' ie not on tracks.
> 
> At higher speeds (eg 45+kph) aero aspects may come into play, and wider tyres tend to be heavier (which may be an issue if lots of acceleration involved - as opposed to steady riding). It would be excellent if tyre manufacturers of the good road tyres (Michelin, Continental, Vittoria, Schwalbe et al) made 28s which measured 28 and 32s in the same 'road tyre' range, as opposed to the step across (ie not up) to the fastest but heavier 'touring' tyres eg M Supremes.



They tested 3 CX tyres and none of them were faster at lower pressures , they said they were the same .


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Eddy said:


> They tested 3 CX tyres and none of them were faster at lower pressures , they said they were the same .



Nobody is saying that tyres are routinely faster at lower pressures though.


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Nobody is saying that tyres are routinely faster at lower pressures though.


Oh yes they are! Common knowledge - just google it.
Edit: Depends what you mean by 'routinely' and 'lower'.


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## User6179 (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Nobody is saying that tyres are routinely faster at lower pressures though.


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## Ajax Bay (7 Jan 2017)

From the Jan Heine article:

"On rough roads, lower pressures are faster. So if you want to optimize your speed on all roads, including rough ones, go with a relatively low, but safe, pressure.
"Your tire pressure needs to be high enough to avoid pinch flats. If you get pinch flats, increase your tire pressure, or better, choose wider tires.
"It can be hard to believe this, because *higher pressure feels faster*. Here is why: When you go faster, your bike hits more road irregularities per second: The road buzz increases in frequency. Most cyclists know: _higher speed = higher frequency_. Higher tire pressure cheats you into thinking that you are going faster, because it also increases the frequency of the vibrations: _higher pressure = higher frequency_. It’s natural to assume that this means: _higher pressure = higher frequency = higher speed_, but that is incorrect. Instead, you are looking at two different mechanisms that both increase the frequency of the road buzz. Even after years of riding supple, wide tires, this “placebo” effect sometimes plays tricks on me. A supple tire absorbs vibrations better, so it can feel slower – until you look at your speedometer."


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## S-Express (7 Jan 2017)

Ajax Bay said:


> Oh yes they are! Common knowledge - just google it.



Er - no they're not. No need to google it.




Ajax Bay said:


> Edit: Depends what you mean by 'routinely' and 'lower'.



You can google 'routinely'. You can also google 'lower' - or you could ask 'eddie', as he originally quoted the word, not me.

Anyway, it's great to see that we all seem to have come to terms with the ground-breaking revelation that 'harder' tyres do not necessarily translate into 'faster' tyres. You can thank me later.


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## alecstilleyedye (7 Jan 2017)

on my 700x23 vittoria rubino pros (my go-to tyre of choice) i run 120psi at the rear and 100psi at the front. the tyres say 100psi-140psi. 

can only speak for my own experience, but punctures are rare and they seem to last 10,000km+ on what is a flat, if pot-holed commute…


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## User6179 (7 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Er - no they're not. No need to google it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> Again, that's completely flawed, unfathomable logic.


How so ? It's logic that works for me.

I pump them up to 120.
The ride is a bit harsher and freer rolling.
The tyres go down a tiny amount each day.
When they get noticeably soft I deploy the pump again.

I've saved time (by not continually checking the tyre pressures and topping up with a couple of strokes of the pump on a twice or thrice weekly basis, and I haven't gone so low as to get a pinch puncture.


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## S-Express (9 Jan 2017)

hatler said:


> How so ? It's logic that works for me.



If you read the rest of the thread, your question is answered.



hatler said:


> I pump them up to 120.
> The ride is a bit harsher and freer rolling.
> The tyres go down a tiny amount each day.
> When they get noticeably soft I deploy the pump again.
> ...



If your only criteria is saving time not checking your pressures (you must be very busy), then just carry on doing that.


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

And a perfectly hard tyre (solid rubber) is definitely slower. In Bicycling Science there is a graph (or equation) that shows how rolling resistance increases when tyres get to stupidly high pressures. (And no, I can't remember what 'stupidly high' equates to.)


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> If you read the rest of the thread, your question is answered.
> 
> 
> 
> If your only criteria is saving time not checking your pressures (you must be very busy), then just carry on doing that.


It's not my fault if you can't fathom out my logic.


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> If you read the rest of the thread, your question is answered.
> 
> 
> 
> If your only criteria is saving time not checking your pressures (you must be very busy), then just carry on doing that.


It's more CBA than 'busy'. And I will, thank you.


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## S-Express (9 Jan 2017)

hatler said:


> It's not my fault if you can't fathom out my logic.



Demonstrate some logic first, then I'll try to fathom it.


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

I have to deploy the trackpump less frequently. I save time.


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## raleighnut (9 Jan 2017)

S-Express said:


> The thing is mate - I'm not here to be your friend - or anyone elses. Ironically, your responses to me have been far more discourteous than any reply I have posted on this thread, including your initial post, which was nothing more than an ad hominem which added nothing. People asked for clarification of my earlier comments and that is exactly what I am providing. Do me a favour - go out for a ride tomorrow around the lanes of 'leafy Berkshire' (I know it well) with your tyres inflated to 150psi - hopefully your dentures will fall out.


If I don't pump the rear tyre on my Raleigh Road Ace (531c frame) up to 155-160psi I'll get 'pinch flats' mind you the tyres are Continental Grand Prix Supersonic 20x700c and are possibly the 'fastest' tyre available (they have the puncture resistance of a soggy fag paper though)


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## Dogtrousers (9 Jan 2017)

I use 6 and a bit bars usually. I try to get as close to 2 pi bars as possible, because this will ensure all the air fits in properly round the circumference of the wheel and will make the wheels rounder and thus make me go faster.


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## Dogtrousers (9 Jan 2017)

@hatler your approach to pumping up tyres is like my approach to haircuts. Get a good value severe cutting, No 2 clippers, and it will last a fair few months.


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## S-Express (9 Jan 2017)

hatler said:


> I have to deploy the trackpump less frequently. I save time.



There's logic - and then there's 'logical fallacy'.


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

And let's not forget the old favourite - 'utterly futile posturing on the internet'.


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## S-Express (9 Jan 2017)

hatler said:


> And let's not forget the old favourite - 'utterly futile posturing on the internet'.



I'll defer to your expertise on that topic. You're the one who pumps up his tyres rock hard because it saves time..


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## hatler (9 Jan 2017)

That's not posturing. It's an explanation of how I manage my tyre pressures. I added the nugget to this thread to show that there are more ways to handle the apparently (and surprisingly) contentious topic of what pressure to run your tyres at. I don't have a lot else to add, other than a constant wonderment at how people can be so confrontational.

I'm outta here.


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## S-Express (9 Jan 2017)

hatler said:


> That's not posturing. It's an explanation of how I manage my tyre pressures.



No, it's a description - not an explanation. Because your 'explanation' defies logic. If I told you what my own 'constant wonderment' was, you'd probably get offended.


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## jay clock (9 Jan 2017)

For anyone just joining first page or two are useful ideas for the OP and the rest are two blokes arguing on the internet


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## Ajax Bay (9 Jan 2017)

jay clock said:


> first page or two are useful ideas for the OP and the rest are two blokes arguing on the internet


More precisely, most of the other (ie not helpful) posts are @S-Express in a state of 'constant wonderment' arguing with various members either simultaneously or consecutively.


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## S-Express (9 Jan 2017)

Ajax Bay said:


> arguing with various members either simultaneously or consecutively.



To be fair, only those who don't seem to understand tyre dynamics...


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