# Lubrication



## Truth (2 Jan 2015)

I gave my throat plenty of alcohol lubrication over Xmas and New Year but I now need to help my bike out ! 
Over the years I have only ever used GT85 on my chains (I do use Muc Off chain cleaner every now and again) and I am thinking about using a proper oil lubricant as I have got through quite a few chains over the years and on doing so wrecked my cogs/gears. Its actually in for a service, new chain , cogs , gears as we speak! 
Its only a Kona Dew City Hybrid, 2 years old, and I have been looking to replace it but I really need to try and keep it going as long as I can as a few things have popped up over the last couple of months that have hit me in the pocket !
Does using a "proper" lubricant help increase the life span on a chain and the other components?
I could google this I know but I thought I would put it to you knowledgable lot !
What are the best lubes for the money ?
Any help is greatly appreciated


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## gavintc (2 Jan 2015)

Mickle produced this method some time ago. I moved from solvent abuse to using the mickle method shortly after reading this - it works and is cheaper

http://www.cyclorama.net/viewArticle.php?id=349&subjectId=9


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## cyberknight (2 Jan 2015)

Your best bet would be a wet lube of some sort this time of year as the dry lubes are less sticky but do not last very long with all the rain etc about.
There a many brands, finish line etc etc and some people even use chainsaw oil.


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## raleighnut (2 Jan 2015)

I'm a fan of chainsaw 'chain' oil but to be honest most oils will do the job.
The secret to saving the sprockets is to change the chain BEFORE it starts to wear out the sprockets and to keep the partially worn one (in a jam-jar submerged in oil is best) Then when some wear occurs on the sprockets and they won't accept a new chain without 'skipping' you have a part 'streched' one (or more) which will happily run on slightly worn chainrings
BTW by the time you can see any sprocket wear its too late to change chains and as for the 'Mickle' method I was doing that long before I became a member on here but it is VERY SOUND ADVICE and I've found that 1 old (clean) pair of religious (holey) Y fronts is more than enough to give the chain a good lube and clean but any cotton cloths will do the job ( I tend to like my older T-shirts though Maz refuses to be seen with me when I'm wearing em )


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## subaqua (2 Jan 2015)

Chainsaw oil. Although at a push I have used rigid pipe threading oil when the chain has been noisy on the way into work.


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## Roadrider48 (2 Jan 2015)

I use one of those Park tools chain cleaning machines with a degreaser, then run it through a clean rag to get off any excess and lube with wet lube(dry lube in the summer).
I know a few people don't like the cleaning machines but personally I do. The chain comes up like brand new.


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## Truth (2 Jan 2015)

Thats great thanks everyone  . Think I will go with the chiansaw oil and see how that goes.
I will have a look at the "Mickle Method" link when I get home from work later , the link is blocked here 
I wonder if old boxer shorts will do the same trick as Y fronts !!!!?????


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## ScotiaLass (2 Jan 2015)

I use dry lube most of the year...little and often. It works a treat


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## Truth (2 Jan 2015)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUSQVARNA...NGINE-XP-0-1-LITRE-/131373466238#ht_169wt_952 
Will this do the trick?
Will probably go dry oil in the Summer


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## mjr (2 Jan 2015)

Yes, most oils will be better than spray degreaser/displacer/lubes. I like TF2 because it seems to suit local conditions. This is something where looking at what independent local bike shops stock can be informative, because they don't often stock lubes that get complaints or leave them open to accusations of deliberately accelerating wear so they can replace more parts!


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## Truth (2 Jan 2015)

Good point that is .......


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## Steady (3 Jan 2015)

I came to the conclusion that it doesn't matter what type of lubricant is used as long as it's used (exceptions for the extreme of course!). I've used all sorts of oil based lubricants over the years, some are just 'stickier' than others, but all do their job. Though buying a 'pride and joy bike' did slip me into a world of marketing and gimicks so I paid out for Finish Line dry lube, pleased with it overall but it's not any different to the cheap muck I've used over the years, comes off quicker in Winter of course.


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## steveindenmark (3 Jan 2015)

I use the Mickle method once a week, twice in winter. Hanging the bike up on my £5 lidl bike lift makes the job very simple and a lot more thorough than leaving the bike on the floor or turning it upside down.

My chains and cassettes last for ages before I change them and I like to have silly smooth sounding bikes.

The trick is to keep on top of them all the time. I think it's therapy and it saves me money at the same time.


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## steve292 (3 Jan 2015)

steveindenmark said:


> The trick is to keep on top of them all the time. I think it's therapy and it saves me money at the same time.


This ^^^
Once its rusty or dry it's too late. I use muc off dry lube in the summer & wet lube in the winter.


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## Truth (3 Jan 2015)

Now I am getting torn as what lube/oil to use! I am going to put all of the options in a hat and draw one 
Its all about opinions and what works best for you. I doubt I will have the time to clean and lube regularly though


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## Gravity Aided (3 Jan 2015)

Truth said:


> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HUSQVARNA...NGINE-XP-0-1-LITRE-/131373466238#ht_169wt_952
> Will this do the trick?
> Will probably go dry oil in the Summer


Seems kind of posh. I usually spend about 4.99 a gallon for mine. I might add that you might wish to invest in a chain checker





standard chain checker



I use the bottom one, as it gives me an estimate as to chain life before the chain is beyond help.


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## tincaman (3 Jan 2015)

I have used all sorts from oil with Teflon, oil with ceramic, chainsaw oil, engine oil. My final conclusion is, regular lubrication with your choice of oil ( they seem to all work the same whatever the additives ), use the Mickle method often, and replace the chain at the 0.75 wear mark. That's it.


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## Truth (3 Jan 2015)

Gravity Aided said:


> Seems kind of posh. I usually spend about 4.99 a gallon for mine. I might add that you might wish to invest in a chain checker
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Now I am DEFINITELY getting one of these!


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## Gravity Aided (3 Jan 2015)

3 in 1 is a spindle oil, used for factory shutdown in textile mills, to keep the machinery from rusting. Rust will stain fabric, spindle oil will not. It has long been marketed as a bike chain oil. I'm going to give it a try, I've used it in the past, but also like chainsaw oil and paraffin wax.


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## mjr (3 Jan 2015)

@Gravity Aided there seem to be lots of types of 3 in 1 now.


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## Truth (3 Jan 2015)

Another option there for me then!
The more I read into this the more I think that I may as well get the oil and chain checker , look after it better , and also get a chain tool. That way next time the chain starts to go I can have a go at changing it myself before buggaring up my cassette! 
I think I mentioned earlier its currently at the local bike shop having that work done which is likely to cost a fair bit!
I KNOW its an easy job for most people but I really am useless at anything like this. I can just about change my V brake pads now and did manage to put new tyres on the bike a few weeks back. Believe you me thats a real achievement in my eyes ! 
Next thing , are the cheaper ebay chain checkers (showing 0.75 - 1.00 indicators) and chain tools ok?


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## MikeW-71 (3 Jan 2015)

Truth said:


> I doubt I will have the time to clean and lube regularly though


Follow the Mickle method and it takes all of 2 minutes to clean and lube.  I do it about every 100 miles or so.

I very rarely use my chain washer now, just run through a cloth to clean it and a tiny amount of fresh lube. Done.


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## Rupie (3 Jan 2015)

On a slightly sideways note, what about general lubrication of other areas.

If I wash the bike, after a ride in the rain and grit, I then wash it lightly, with hot water, and some car shampoo. The BB, wheel bearings and Top forks are also covered in this water and grit. If I rub them to clean, will it push grit into it ? should I spray anything to displace the water, add some grease, or just nothing at all ? Some people suggest GT55 all over but this is a degreaser, isn't it, like WD40 ?


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## Truth (3 Jan 2015)

MikeW-71 said:


> Follow the Mickle method and it takes all of 2 minutes to clean and lube.  I do it about every 100 miles or so.
> 
> I very rarely use my chain washer now, just run through a cloth to clean it and a tiny amount of fresh lube. Done.



 Even I have got that much time so I will !
Would baby wipes do a better job than an old rag? Just a thought?


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## Gravity Aided (4 Jan 2015)

mjray said:


> @Gravity Aided there seem to be lots of types of 3 in 1 now.


Household version is my preference, I think the electric motor version is just 20w petroleum, while 3 in 1 is a severely hydrotreated napthenic oil, according MSDS(materials safety data sheet). but yes, they even make a dry lube now. I think they are associated with WD-40 in some way. WD 40 was originally made to displace water , which causes corrosion, in missiles. It was the 40th attempt at coming up with a formula. GT 85 seems to be a aerosol variant of 3 in 1, according to safety data sheets.


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## Truth (9 Jan 2015)

Right then people I have chosen my lube and purchased a chain checker , just a silverline one with the 0.75 and 1.00 indicator. I have got my bike back from repair now aswell , courtesy of asking my Dad to pick it up for me in return for a pint or two!  
Anyway when he picked it up the repair guy gave him a few little tips on maintaining the chain and set up which my Dad relayed to me and it was basically what you guys have told me on here so thanks for that  
He has put a power link in the chain for me, are they any good ? I have looked on the net and they seem ok but some people have issues with unlocking them apparently? Does this mean now that I don't have to purchase a "chain splitter" and that when this chain does need replacing I just buy another chain with a power link on ? 
Would also be a good idea to get a chain hook , or more to the point anyone get any good ideas of what you could use AS a chain hook as they're not cheap for a bit of metal are they !?
Apologies if I should be posting this elsewhere or if I am covering things that have already been covered dozens of times on here before .


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## arch684 (9 Jan 2015)

You will still need a chain splitter.A new chain will probably need links removed to fit.As for a chain hook a piece of wire coat hanger will do fine


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## Alun (9 Jan 2015)

Power links are great, save a lot of hassle. I usually buy KMC chains which come complete with a power link. They can be fiddly to open, but you can buy a special tool which makes it easy. You will still need a splitter to shorten the chain, as arch684 says above.


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## derrick (9 Jan 2015)

My best bike is cleaned and lubed after every ride, GT85, the commuter once a week with a thicker oil, Regular and often you won't go far wrong.


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## DWiggy (9 Jan 2015)

GT85 + rag to clean and finishline Teflon or ceramic to lube, once a week all weathers.


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## Truth (9 Jan 2015)

Thanks for all of the replies again . 
The chain is already on and fitted with the power link . I know I am being thick here but why would I then need a splitter to remove the chain to put a new one on IF the new one was fitted with powerlink , am I missing something here ?


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## tincaman (9 Jan 2015)

Chain splitter will be needed for a new chain that's too long


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## Ciar (9 Jan 2015)

I generally use a chain cleaner machine thingy, then apply finish line step 1, depending on the weather i either apply wet or dry lube after it's all been cleaned and wiped down, seems to do the trick.


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## arch684 (9 Jan 2015)

Truth said:


> Thanks for all of the replies again .
> The chain is already on and fitted with the power link . I know I am being thick here but why would I then need a splitter to remove the chain to put a new one on IF the new one was fitted with powerlink , am I missing something here ?


A new chain will be to long and will need links removed to fit your bike.the power link needs two open ends to fit have a look at your power link and you will see what i mean


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## Truth (9 Jan 2015)

And there was me thinking that there were different length chains for different types of bikes and you simply put them on!
I really am proving beyond all doubt what an amateur I am! 
So when you change a chain then how do you determine how many links to take out?
Any tips on a decent cheap splitter then?


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## morrisman (9 Jan 2015)

Truth said:


> So when you change a chain then how do you determine how many links to take out?


Remove old chain, lay it alongside new chain, remove excess links.


Truth said:


> Any tips on a decent cheap splitter then?


http://www.halfords.com/cycling/tools-maintenance/tools/topeak-universal-bike-chain-tool


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## Truth (10 Jan 2015)

Thanks Morrisman
Come to think of it now lying the old chain next to the new one does make sense! 
I take it all chains are oversized then?


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## Booyaa (10 Jan 2015)

N


Truth said:


> Thanks Morrisman
> Come to think of it now lying the old chain next to the new one does make sense!
> I take it all chains are oversized then?


Not if you buy one for the right size


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## Truth (10 Jan 2015)

Oh God! I
In that case then I wouldn't need a chain splitter, but I am buying one anyway 
I think the Topeak above comes with a chain hook 'thing' so that SHOULD be me all sorted


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## dr snuggles (11 Jan 2015)

I've always just relied on using gt85 but I change chain and cassette every spring.
This mickle method. Is this really sufficient in winter? What about all the salt on the roads, doesn't that call for something a bit more thorough?


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## Truth (11 Jan 2015)

My chain and cassette aren't lasting that long though, I need to try and maintain it so it does....


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## cazwood (11 Jan 2015)

Just had to google "how to use a chain checker"!


View: http://youtu.be/yQ3oCSVK1IQ

Is this pretty much it?

This has been a useful thread, thanks


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## Truth (11 Jan 2015)

That makes two of us, thanks everyone
What may be simple for some isn't for others....... ME!


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## Nigelnaturist (18 Jan 2015)

cheap bike oil any brand, clean regular as mentioned by the mickle method, measure the chain with a ruler front of one link count 12 and the 12th should be 12" apart, 1" chain links see, if its less than 12 1/16 its ok, between 12 1/16 and 12 1/8 it needs changing if its over 12 1/8 cassette will probably need it too. Chain checkers can give a false wear indication as they push the chain apart, could be the reason many people say they have to change their chains so quickly (convinced they were designed by chain manufactures so people buy more chains), just measured mine this week and I can't tell how much over 12" it is but not so much as 1/16th shows, and I have done 3,000 miles on it, mind you I ride a triple so that helps.


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## byegad (18 Jan 2015)

I started using Chainsaw oil three or so years ago and find it works really well. Designed to stick to metal and lube a chain under far more pressure, muck and stress than on a bike my chains, cassette and chainrings seem to last longer between replacement too.


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## mickle (18 Jan 2015)

Gravity Aided said:


> 3 in 1 is a spindle oil, used for factory shutdown in textile mills, to keep the machinery from rusting. Rust will stain fabric, spindle oil will not. It has long been marketed as a bike chain oil. I'm going to give it a try, I've used it in the past, but also like chainsaw oil and paraffin wax.



Terrible stuff.


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## mickle (18 Jan 2015)

All this talk of mickle method... (it's not really 'mine' BTW, it was around long before me - I just got tagged as this method's most vocal advocate). If you lot could see the chain on my daily you'd be farking horrified!


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## Truth (18 Jan 2015)

mickle said:


> All this talk of mickle method... (it's not really 'mine' BTW, it was around long before me - I just got tagged as this method's most vocal advocate). If you lot could see the chain on my daily you'd be farking horrified!


Brilliant!


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## runner (24 Jan 2015)

cazwood said:


> Just had to google "how to use a chain checker"!
> 
> 
> View: http://youtu.be/yQ3oCSVK1IQ
> ...



I am lucky that i live within 200 yards of my LBS so i always make time to call in and have my chain checked...its one thing to have a new chain but if you forget then a new set of cogs needs added to the bill.....having seen the video (very useful thanks) I will look to buying a chain checker..


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## Smurfy (24 Jan 2015)

White Lightning Clean Ride saves a lot of mess and works well all year round. To avoid joining the list of people who say it doesn't work, make sure you thoroughly clean, degrease and dry your chain before applying, as it won't properly attach to the chain unless you do this. My favourite cleaning method is white spirit.

For the ultimate in low maintenance, belt drive and hub gears is unbeatable.
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/revolution-shadow-13
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/products/revolution-shadow-14


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## Truth (21 Feb 2015)

DWiggy said:


> GT85 + rag to clean and finishline Teflon or ceramic to lube, once a week all weathers.


Just a quick update really. Been using the Mickle Method ,with the GT85 on the rag, and she is running as smooth as she was the day after she was serviced, 400 miles later
For any beginner that is useless with maintenance this thread is priceless, could save a lot of money in the long run.
Have a good weekend all


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## Kumquat (27 Feb 2015)

Quick (and stupid) question, do I need a cleaning solvent (like GT85, WD40) to clean my chain before I lube it, or can I just give it a wipe with a plain rag and then lube it? 
I've read the "mickle method" which only mentions lube and a rag, but a lot of people on here seem to be using something before the lube so...??
I have bought (but not yet used) some chain lube, I can get GT-85 from sainsburys if I need it.

General consensus seem to be to do this once a week, but is it ok to do it a bit less often, like 2-3 times a month? Only I know I'll probably forget a few times! and I'm only cycling roughly 30 miles a week anyway


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## young Ed (27 Feb 2015)

Kumquat said:


> Quick (and stupid) question, do I need a cleaning solvent (like GT85, WD40) to clean my chain before I lube it, or can I just give it a wipe with a plain rag and then lube it?
> I've read the "mickle method" which only mentions lube and a rag, but a lot of people on here seem to be using something before the lube so...??
> I have bought (but not yet used) some chain lube, I can get GT-85 from sainsburys if I need it.
> 
> General consensus seem to be to do this once a week, but is it ok to do it a bit less often, like 2-3 times a month? Only I know I'll probably forget a few times! and I'm only cycling roughly 30 miles a week anyway


not a stupid question at all!
personally WD40 wouldn't go near my chain as it isn't oil but a synthetic load of stuff and not oil. this means it just gunks the chain up and all gummy and shoot. not sure about gt85.
personally i never clean the chain with anything but just just have the bike up in the work stand and hold the chain with a clean section of rag and spin the pedals and just keep changing places in the rag so you always use a fresh clean bit. then drop oil/lube on to chain (only a few drops) and whipe again with fresh rag and spinning pedals.
repeat
yes, i would say 30 miles a week a week is enough to make once a week worth it, 3 times a month minimum. make it into a habit and routine to always do it friday evening or saturday morning or what ever. remember the more often you do it the less time it will take each time and the longer the chain will last.
Cheers Ed


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## Citius (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> not a stupid question at all!
> personally WD40 wouldn't go near my chain as it isn't oil but a synthetic load of stuff and not oil. this means it just gunks the chain up and all gummy and shoot. not sure about gt85.



Not sure where you dreamt that up, but it's complete nonsense. WD40 contains a mineral oil - you only need to read the label or the product sheet to know that. It contains a mineral oil - so by definition, it is a lubricant. Ditto GT85. While neither is particularly good as a chainlube, neither will 'gunk the chain up'. If anything, it will allow it run cleaner, because there won't be much lube on there. 

Either way, it's always better to post with a bit of knowledge.


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## Kumquat (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> not a stupid question at all!
> personally WD40 wouldn't go near my chain as it isn't oil but a synthetic load of stuff and not oil. this means it just gunks the chain up and all gummy and shoot. not sure about gt85.
> personally i never clean the chain with anything but just just have the bike up in the work stand and hold the chain with a clean section of rag and spin the pedals and just keep changing places in the rag so you always use a fresh clean bit. then drop oil/lube on to chain (only a few drops) and whipe again with fresh rag and spinning pedals.
> repeat
> ...



Cheers, I'll give that a go and see how I get on.


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## young Ed (27 Feb 2015)

Citius said:


> Not sure where you dreamt that up, but it's complete nonsense. WD40 contains a mineral oil - you only need to read the label or the product sheet to know that. It contains a mineral oil - so by definition, it is a lubricant. Ditto GT85. While neither is particularly good as a chainlube, neither will 'gunk the chain up'. If anything, it will allow it run cleaner, because there won't be much lube on there.
> 
> Either way, it's always better to post with a bit of knowledge.


well i was pretty damn certain that was the case and everyone i have spoken to seem to be under the same illusion then
Cheers Ed


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## Pale Rider (27 Feb 2015)

No WD40 - or WD sticky as I call it - on the bike for me.


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## subaqua (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> not a stupid question at all!
> personally WD40 wouldn't go near my chain as it isn't oil but a synthetic load of stuff and not oil. this means it just gunks the chain up and all gummy and shoot. not sure about gt85.
> personally i never clean the chain with anything but just just have the bike up in the work stand and hold the chain with a clean section of rag and spin the pedals and just keep changing places in the rag so you always use a fresh clean bit. then drop oil/lube on to chain (only a few drops) and whipe again with fresh rag and spinning pedals.
> repeat
> ...



sooooo then , nothing but raw crude then if you don't want anything synthetic on your chain ......... I oil the chain up good and wet then use a cloth to clean all the excess off then a few drops . the mickle maybe method if you like. it clears the crud off the chain and i do like a quiet bike. the B&Q chainsaw oil is working well still


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## Citius (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> well i was pretty damn certain that was the case and everyone i have spoken to seem to be under the same illusion then
> Cheers Ed



Perhaps you - and everyone who agrees with you - should try reading the product info then. It would put you all straight.


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## young Ed (27 Feb 2015)

Citius said:


> Perhaps you - and everyone who agrees with you - should read the product info then. It would put you all straight.


i'm sure it all came out a while ago what was really in WD40, although i am always happy to stand corrected.
i shall have a look next time a see a can of real WD40 (we don't use any of it round here, either used specialised oils for each task or sometime have a can of cheap copy stuff about)
Cheers Ed


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## young Ed (27 Feb 2015)

subaqua said:


> sooooo then , nothing but raw crude then if you don't want anything synthetic on your chain ......... I oil the chain up good and wet then use a cloth to clean all the excess off then a few drops . the mickle maybe method if you like. it clears the crud off the chain and i do like a quiet bike. the B&Q chainsaw oil is working well still


i have heard of people using natural mineral oils, not sure but i'm fairly sure the chainsaw oil i use is natural. just use what works
if WD40 works for you @Citius then i'm not going to stop you but i know i wouldn't use it personally 
Cheers Ed


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## subaqua (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> i have heard of people using natural mineral oils, not sure but i'm fairly sure the chainsaw oil i use is natural. just use what works
> if WD40 works for you @Citius then i'm not going to stop you but i know i wouldn't use it personally
> Cheers Ed



the only natural mineral oil is crude. once its been through the refinery it has had all sorts of stuff added to it. which is not natural. and raw crude isn't that good a lubricant.


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## Citius (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> i'm sure it all came out a while ago what was really in WD40, although i am always happy to stand corrected.
> i shall have a look next time a see a can of real WD40 (we don't use any of it round here, either used specialised oils for each task or sometime have a can of cheap copy stuff about)
> Cheers Ed



Why wait until then? Just have a look at the website. http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts


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## Citius (27 Feb 2015)

young Ed said:


> if WD40 works for you @Citius then i'm not going to stop you but i know i wouldn't use it personally
> Cheers Ed



You need to go back and read what I said. I never said it 'works for me' or anything like that - I never even claimed to use it. I simply corrected your inaccurate assertion that it was not a lubricant.


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## raleighnut (27 Feb 2015)

A good squirt with WD40 is a good thing if the chain is covered in crap, then wipe (Mickle) it all off and lube properly (with chainsaw chain oil for me )


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## Kumquat (27 Feb 2015)

raleighnut said:


> A good squirt with WD40 is a good thing if the chain is covered in crap, then wipe (Mickle) it all off and lube properly (with chainsaw chain oil for me )



I considered getting chainsaw oil, but I could only find it in huge quantities that I really don't need! Got some unbranded bike stuff with teflon in from decathlon, cheaper than I could find elsewhere.


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## young Ed (27 Feb 2015)

Citius said:


> Why wait until then? Just have a look at the website. http://wd40.com/cool-stuff/myths-legends-fun-facts


ok thanks, apparently i stand corrected, not for the first time! looks like i just believed an age old myth. still won't make me change how i do my chain
Cheers Ed


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## arch684 (27 Feb 2015)

If WD40 is so good why did they bring out WD40 bike


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## Gravity Aided (27 Feb 2015)

Because some people don't believe in chainsaw oil.


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## Citius (27 Feb 2015)

arch684 said:


> If WD40 is so good why did they bring out WD40 bike



I don't see anyone claiming that WD40 is 'so good' - unless I missed that post?


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## Truth (28 Feb 2015)

What I do is spray the GT85 onto an old t shirt and run the chain through it to just clean the outside of the chain as much as anything
Then spin the chain again while dripping a bit of Teflon all weather lube into the centre of the chain.
Do this once a week, I commute 3 times a week usually, a total of about 70 miles each week.
Sorted


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