# Discovering (North) Devon



## IaninSheffield (18 Aug 2021)

*Prologue*

Following a year during which, like many people, our annual plans had to be consigned to the wastebasket, we were grateful to once more have the chance to get away with the bikes. ‘We’ is me and my good friend and cycling buddy, Paul. As a single-centre tour, our summer cycling ‘expedition’ once more provided a more focused experience of a specific area, rather than a whistle stop tour through multiple places. North Devon provided the play area for our explorations from a B&B base in Barnstaple.





With two travelling days bookending our trip, we had five days available to explore the compass points around our base. We gave ourselves six potential routes from which to choose, differing in length from 42 to 59 miles, but each having a minimum of 1000m of ascent - after all, this was Devon! We chose which route to do on which day depending on how we felt and what the weather threatened to deliver.

Devon, especially the north coast, is an area with which I have only minimal experience. I did once spend a few days camping in Minehead and had a couple of excursions on the bike. And of course Paul and I whizzed through Devon on our northbound LEJOG.

Rather than doing battle with two bikes and gear on the rail network, we once more settled on the simplicity of the car to whisk us to our destination. This of course also meant that we were less restricted on how much ‘stuff’ we could take along … though that’s not always a good thing!





_The Poplars B&B_​
The journey down was reassuringly uneventful and we arrived at our B&B in Barnstaple - The Poplars - late afternoon as planned. After unloading, briefly reassembling, then storing the bikes, we were shown to our room, all Covid precautions observed. After a shower we yomped down into town to explore possible contenders which might suitably provide our evening meal and perhaps a small refreshment. It proved to be further on the roads than it appeared in the map, but at least provided an opportunity to begin to become acquainted with Barnstaple. For simplicity's sake and to obviate the need for making a decision, we settled on the local Wetherspoons. The food and beer were the usual cheap and cheerful standard, but if there were other options around town, we'd likely take advantage of them in subsequent nights. So after leaving we took a roundabout route back to base and noted several alternative eating and drinking holes. Barnstaple began to look more and more appealing with several architecturally interesting buildings, not least the 'Pannier Market' - surely a must visit for cyclists.

We picked up the cycleway running betwixt the Park and the river which wafted us right back to the entrance to the B&B, and in so doing provided a much more pleasant and attractive route to and from town. (Not sure why the B&B host had warned us not to cut through the Park after dark?) It’s a route we'll doubtless either be treading or pedaling several times as the week unfolds.


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## IaninSheffield (18 Aug 2021)

*Day 1 - Ilfracombe
40.6 miles, 3798 feet of ascent*

After a decent night's sleep, the prospect of the first day's cycling stirred up plenty of enthusiasm. The breakfast offering was fairly standard, but of a good quality - for me, yoghurt and berries, a cooked breakfast, and toast to follow. We shared the long table at breakfast with a married couple who were also here for the cycling. They spend a few days away at a time in locations with easy access to cycleways created from former railway lines - gentle cycling with plenty of stops. 'Gentle', however, is not an appropriate adjective for our ride today!





_Braunton craft market_​
After fettling the bikes from yesterday's journey down in the car, we were immediately on a local cyclepath which shortly joined the main Tarka Trail towards town. This section follows the northern bank of the River Taw and proved to be a popular route for a wide variety of cyclists - some out to do their shopping, family groups, some experienced, others less so, but somewhat surprisingly, no loaded tourers. I always enjoy cycling alongside water, so the half dozen miles to the pretty little estuary village of Braunton was delightful - no traffic and undemanding topography. That changed as we left the village, turned inland and launched into the first of several climbs that would test our mettle.





_Somewhat ... off-piste?_​
After a short distance up narrow country lanes, the Garmin pointed us up a steep track. With rock outcrops and deep channels cut by rain-formed streams, this was not a section for which either of our bikes were suited. A check of the screen map suggested we only had about a quarter mile before it looked like the track rejoined a road. So after a few minutes hiking rather than biking, and with a couple of nettle stings for good measure, we rejoined tarmac and climbed for a little while longer before dropping precipitously into Woolacombe. Despite the rather grey weather, holidaymakers were out in force, so much so, that for someone who's been largely ensconced away from the public at large for that past year, this was slightly unsettling … at least until it once more becomes part of 'normal' life.





_Descending into Woolacombe_​
It was still fairly early so choose to move on before taking a coffee break. The steep climb out of town took us up to the hilltop settlement of Mortehoe where the exertions needed to reach it obliged us to reassess our needs for a break. And we would have stopped at the café opposite the church had a family not nabbed the outside table we had our eye on. Onwards then towards Ifracombe and further climbing before reaching NCN route 27 which descends slowly into town along the long gone railway line.





_Railway tunnel on trail into Ilfracombe_​
It proved to be another stunning section with great views down the gorge and at times over the Slade reservoirs which serve the town. The tree-lined path attracted cyclists, runners and walkers, some of whom might have been using the path to connect town with the hilltop campsites we passed a mile or so back. It was a much less demanding descent than the one into Woolacombe, where our fingers continually gripped the brakes for dear life.






_No, not cooling towers, but the Landmark Theatre, Ilfracombe_​
We took a break at, and sustenance from the Landmark Theatre cafe where a Devon creamed tea seemed to be the right thing to do. After a welcome and well-earned break, just as we set off, the skies threw down a fine drizzle to cool us off as we embarked on the next protracted climb. The dampness accompanied us all the way up, briefly down, then decidedly back up, before finally dropping into Combe Martin. Had the conditions been more appealing, we might well have paused for a brief break, but chose instead to push onwards (and of course upwards!) once more.



_A rather damp bay, Coombe Martin_

Our route was keen to test us further with a demanding extended climb up onto the ridge above the valley. However, since the main road out of town didn't appear to be too busy, we chose instead to take this more gentle ascent as it gradually bowed to the contours passed, rather than brutalising them into submission. As we rejoined our original route at the summit, only a further brief stretch of climbing was needed before we could begin the final extended descent towards Barnstaple. This proved to be one of the highlights of the day with easy miles gained often by coasting. Pretty villages and hamlets came and went as the River Yeo kept us company as we gently pedaled along yet more gloriously tree-lined roads. Perhaps this is the Yeo Valley which lends its name to the range of yoghurt products?





_Cyclepath, Barnstaple_​
On entering the fringes of Barnstaple we picked up the local cyclepaths, contributing towards what would seem to be an extensive network serving the town. The paths provided a very pleasant, quiet and safe route across town and back to our B&B. The gentle miles out along the Taw, the challenging topography of the middle section, the seaside towns along the North Devon coast, the quiet lanes, the tree-lined paths reclaimed from former rail lines, and the pleasant, easy closing miles all contributed to a most enjoyable day. Even the rather drab and slightly damp weather did little to curb our enthusiasm, especially given the battering it's inflicted on the UK in recent weeks.

Our evening repast was provided courtesy of 'The Ganges' Indian restaurant which exceeded all expectations. Some of the dishes listed on the menu were the classics you might expect to find in most similar restaurants, however, there was a whole raft of dishes which were completely new to me. This is where I'm in my element; the way less trod applies not only to bike routes, but new experiences more generally and especially with food. After a conventional poppadoms and pickles opener, we ordered a range of dishes including a Punjabi Railway Lamb curry, a sag aloo, 'Three Sisters' (creamy chickpeas, sweet potato and spinach), and a smoked aubergine curry. Excellent food, excellent service.


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## Johnsco (18 Aug 2021)

These are all places I've visited and loved since I was a child - Some 65 years ago.
I still visit often - But some of the climbs are beyond me now.


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## Edwardoka (19 Aug 2021)

Spent a couple of weeks in the area around Woolacombe in 2016 and enjoyed exploring it, despite how steep it is. That road you descended into Woolacombe is evil in the other direction. I must have tried it a dozen times, and never made it to the top. I'm going to blame it on traffic coming the other way... 

That final kick on the Mortehoe climb took me by surprise. Looking forward to reading the rest of your reports


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## chriswoody (19 Aug 2021)

Fantastic, I grew up in North Devon so spent my younger years cycling all over the roads and lanes around there, it's great to see the photos of all the places I know so well. Overgrown lanes and nettle stings sound familiar! I look forward to seeing more of your report.

As an aside when the landmark theatre was first built in Ilfracombe all the locals came to know it as Madonna's Bra! It certainly is a distinctive looking building.


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## Arrowfoot (19 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> *Prologue*
> 
> Following a year during which, like many people, our annual plans had to be consigned to the wastebasket, we were grateful to once more have the chance to get away with the bikes. ‘We’ is me and my good friend and cycling buddy, Paul. As a single-centre tour, our summer cycling ‘expedition’ once more provided a more focused experience of a specific area, rather than a whistle stop tour through multiple places. North Devon provided the play area for our explorations from a B&B base in Barnstaple.
> 
> ...


Seen your Kiwi trip travelog. You should consider publishing a travel book on your next big trip as you narrate well and you seem to know what info and answers readers are looking for. Thanks for sharing.


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## IaninSheffield (19 Aug 2021)

Johnsco said:


> These are all places I've visited and loved since I was a child - Some 65 years ago.
> I still visit often - But some of the climbs are beyond me now.


It won't be long before they're beyond me too. Time to start saving for an e-bike methinks. Saw a few folk on them, but none on the 'wicked' climbs - wonder if Devon's demon climbs are a little to much for electric assist?


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## IaninSheffield (19 Aug 2021)

Edwardoka said:


> Spent a couple of weeks in the area around Woolacombe in 2016 and enjoyed exploring it, despite how steep it is. That road you descended into Woolacombe is evil in the other direction. I must have tried it a dozen times, and never made it to the top. I'm going to blame it on traffic coming the other way...
> 
> That final kick on the Mortehoe climb took me by surprise. Looking forward to reading the rest of your reports


As we descended into Woolacombe, it struck me we'd luckily chosen the right direction for our loop. And I had exactly the same reaction at Mortehoe.


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## IaninSheffield (19 Aug 2021)

chriswoody said:


> Fantastic, I grew up in North Devon so spent my younger years cycling all over the roads and lanes around there, it's great to see the photos of all the places I know so well. Overgrown lanes and nettle stings sound familiar! I look forward to seeing more of your report.
> 
> As an aside when the landmark theatre was first built in Ilfracombe all the locals came to know it as Madonna's Bra! It certainly is a distinctive looking building.


That's quite a proving ground you had there.
The 'Landmark' is certainly unique. Not sure what the architect was smoking when s/he designed it.


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## IaninSheffield (19 Aug 2021)

Arrowfoot said:


> Seen your Kiwi trip travelog. You should consider publishing a travel book on your next big trip as you narrate well and you seem to know what info and answers readers are looking for. Thanks for sharing.


Thank you kindly.
I get a great deal of pleasure and have learned so much from reading accounts by other touring cyclists. Just trying to pay a little back.


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## Arrowfoot (19 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Thank you kindly.
> I get a great deal of pleasure and have learned so much from reading accounts by other touring cyclists. Just trying to pay a little back.


You have a gift and it must be used. No pressure


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## Cathryn (19 Aug 2021)

You are a lovely writer! 

What happened


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## IaninSheffield (19 Aug 2021)

*Day 2 - Tarka Trail*
*60 miles, 3379 feet of ascent*

After the recent unsettled spell, today's weather forecast looked promising - dry, cloudy but with sunny intervals. Err, no. After breakfast, the view from the bedroom window can only be described, as the Scots would say, as dreech. A short delay allowed the fine rain to dissipate, then we were off on the cyclepath and down to the bridge over the Taw estuary. Another spanner thrown into the works with the cyclepath bridge closed to all cyclists and pedestrians. The detour into town added little distance and the path alongside the river, as we'd found yesterday, was perfectly pleasant.





_Barnstaple clock tower_​
Once we were back on track, our route took us past the station and out onto the westbound Tarka Trail. The surface from Barnstaple onwards was excellent and we were mostly treated to views over the estuary as we passed some of the stations which had once served their local communities.





_Fremington station on the Tarka Trail - cafe currently closed :-(_





_View across the Torridge to Northam_​
Unfortunately, the rain which hadn't been forecast accompanied us for most of the morning. It was just within the margins of needing a waterproof to stave off the worst. Nevertheless that didn't dampen our enjoyment of such a varied, extended off-road section of cycleway as we briefly paused to take in Bideford station and the heritage displays provided in the railway carriage and signal box.





_Bideford station_





_Bridge over the Torridge near Great Torrington_​
Despite a slightly uneven surface due to tree roots exerting their authority, the next few miles through woodlands crossed and recrossed the River Torridge oxbows, each elevated bridge offering views up- and downstream. Twenty-ish miles into the Trail, the metalled surface eventually gave out, but the subsequent surface, despite providing a little extra friction, was largely easy riding, even though the flat terrain had given way to a gentle incline. In brighter weather the wooded glades might have provided respite from the glare of the sun, but today it was more about shelter from the fine rain. By the time we reached the Orchard Cafe which sits conveniently by the trail, the rain had eased and we could sit outside whilst slowly drying out. The coffee and cake were most welcome, as was the setting amongst the apple trees bulging with ripening produce.

We parted company with the Trail a few miles further near Melton and gently eased back into Devon’s challenging topography along more quiet lanes. After climbing through Dolton, dropping first into the Taw then the Mole valleys, we found ourselves following the rivers upstream whilst enjoying occasional glimpses of the sun which brought our verdant surroundings more vividly to life. The exertions required for the persistent ups and downs allowed the excuse, as if one was needed, for a second coffee stop in South Molton. As we sat on the benches outside the coffee shop refreshed by our chocolate chip and stem ginger cookies, a young, solo female cyclist taking a break from her undoubtedly faster day ride joined us. Her love for the area came through in the conversation … as was her respect for, but pleasure in the terrain!





_Descending into Barnstaple_​
Our final climb after South Molton passed through the Castle Hill estate was a series of lung-busting testers, but the ridge along which we travelled back to Barnstaple afforded superb views over the valleys below, even as far as Dartmoor in the distance. The extended descent back into town and our B&B was also most welcome and a gratifying conclusion to the day’s outing.

In the evening we went in search of the Chinese restaurant recommended in the B&B information pack, only to discover it was closed until the following week. When you’ve worked your taste buds up into a frenzy of expectation only to let them down? That. The second ‘spoons in Barnstaple provided only modest solace in the form an unexpectedly enjoyable cauliflower and spinach curry, but the increasing volume of the youthful and exuberant clientele (I think it was results day) soon had us once more trudging across the Park back to our B&B. For the second night, despite darkness having almost fallen, we thankfully experienced no nefarious activity on our return journey.


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## mjr (19 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> Perhaps this is the Yeo Valley which lends its name to the range of yoghurt products?


No, they're based in Blagdon, Somerset, on a different River Yeo.


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## Cathryn (19 Aug 2021)

Loving your reports. Hoping tomorrow is sunnier.


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## sheddy (20 Aug 2021)

I wonder if anyone has persuaded the Lynton/Lynmouth cliff railway to carry their bike ?
There is an ancient photo showing a car being transported on the flatbed after the passenger carriage was removed.


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## IaninSheffield (20 Aug 2021)

sheddy said:


> I wonder if anyone has persuaded the Lynton/Lynmouth cliff railway to carry their bike ?
> There is an ancient photo showing a car being transported on the flatbed after the passenger carriage was removed.


I guess if it's a quiet period and the driver/helmsperson/engineer(?) is feeling sympathetic, you might have a chance?


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## IaninSheffield (20 Aug 2021)

*Day 3 - Lynton and Lynmouth
46.7 miles, 4975 feet of ascent*

Today involved juggling the itinerary. Our after-breakfast routine was leisurely and sedate since the train we planned to catch as far as Crediton wasn't due until 10:35. This would be a RailRide - out on the train then ride 'home'. After buying tickets from the machine at the station entrance, then going through to the platform, it was thronged with hopeful passengers, far more than one would expect on a provincial line at this time on a weekday. We soon learned that the preceding two trains had been cancelled owing to driver shortages, presumably victims of 'pinging'. Although we waited until the train arrived, it soon became clear we weren't going to get on … at least not with the bikes! Plan B was hastily drafted and we opted instead to do one of our other routes, whilst also fortunately managing to switch our travel tickets for tomorrow.






_Chelfham viaduct_​
Our route out to Lynton and Lynmouth initially followed the inward route from our first day, heading up the Yeo Valley for the climb up through Loxhore. On the way up the valley, motorists were generally patient, waiting for an appropriate moment to overtake us on the rather winding road. The other day we must have swept past the stunning viaduct at Chelfham without spotting it over our left shoulders. Today it was clearly visible as we approached, and what an amazing structure, made more unusual for me by the pale colour of the bricks. It was after this that I began to notice just how many other buildings in the area were constructed from the same materials, which I assume must be a result of the local clays? I also later learned that the railway for which the viaduct spanned the valley was the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway, closed in 1923, but a line which seemed to regularly intersect and sometimes even provide our route. If still active, it would definitely have propelled us to Lynton more swiftly than our legs were managing!

The stiff and extended ascent through Loxhore served as a warm up for the sequence of ups and downs which followed, the 23% descent then ascent into and out of the pretty little village of Parracombe being of particular note. A brief thought of how wonderful it must be to call such a place your home flits across my mind, then my legs begin grinding out of the valley and such notions are swiftly banished.

Now up on the hilltops, the sign for the Lynton Camping and Caravan Club site suggested we were not far from our halfway point and a cafe stop, but not until we'd negotiated another almost precipitous descent. Lynton perches on a topographical shelf, surrounded by steep hillsides and peering over a cliff to its sister town, Lynmouth, below. From my admittedly limited historical knowledge, I'd say the town typifies Victorian splendour.





_Town Hall, Lynton





Entrance to the upper station on the cliff railway_​
We enjoyed another Devon cream tea - more generous on this occasion - at a cafe at the entrance to the cliff railway, sitting outside in an ideal location for people watching as they made their way to and fro their their transport connection with the town below. After topping up the energy banks we took a brief stroll along the streets and peered over the cliffs to the bay far below, hoping beyond hope that our route wouldn’t take us all the way down there only to have to climb back out. Hope is a wonderful, if not often misguided emotion.





_ Looking down from St Mary’s church yard, Lynton to Lynmouth and the bay beyond _​
As we remounted and took the Garmin’s cue to head out of town it became clear our route was taking us down to Lynmouth down a 25% gradient that some vehicles were clearly struggling with, in both directions! At one point the turn beep on the Garmin indicated a direction change, the big white arrow seeming to show we needed to come back in the same direction. The road however seemed to continue ahead. Please don’t say we’ve come all this way down but taken the wrong road! A few dozen yards later and the reason for the direction change became apparent - the road dropped away precipitously to our left, 180° from our current direction. The smells of stressed brake pads and slipping clutches as cars negotiated the gradient and the awkward junction added to our sensory overload.





_The Power of Water’, Lynmouth_​
Safely at the foot of the descent in the welcoming embrace of Lynmouth we wondered what on earth we were likely to be facing on our departure, but thankfully, the road out of town was graciously gentle in the demands it made. However, though the gradient was not too steep, it did go on … and on and on, for several miles up onto the exposed Exmoor hilltops. The early sections which twisted and turned as they followed the Lyn gorge were somewhat reminiscent of alpine gorges, though with deciduous rather than coniferous arboreal cover. The views down to the river below were stunning and with such little traffic could mostly be enjoyed.

Once on Exmoor we were exposed to the stiff south westerly breeze, though thankfully our path only occasionally took us into conflict with it. After several false summits our route eventually began to lose altitude, just as the route profile on the Garmin predicted. What the infernal device also showed was that all the altitude lost over a couple of miles had to be regained once more. This final significant climb took us up past the lonely Fortescue monument, a reminder of the achievements of one of the local landowners and in fact the one time owner of the Castle Hill estate through which we’d passed yesterday. He’d clearly led an interesting life, tempered rather by the privilege which afforded him the opportunities few others at his time could enjoy.





_Fortescue monument near Simonsbath_​
Our climbing was still not at an end with one more tester rising up from Brayford and onto the ridge fringing Stoodley Down, which in the usual English contrary fashion was not a ‘down’ but actually an 'up'! This soon melded with the final half dozen miles we'd covered on our final leg yesterday, terminating with the now familiar cyclepaths of the Whiddon Valley into Barnstaple. An incredibly demanding, but stunning and unmissable ride.

Famished yet again, we settled on an Italian and despite it being a Friday night, we managed to book a table. Having ordered plenty of dishes, our appetites were sated, however, the high expectations we had from an Italian restaurant run by Italians were sadly not met. The service was great and it wasn't at all that the food was poor, just that it was rather underwhelming and with minor changes could have been so much better.


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## IaninSheffield (21 Aug 2021)

*Day 4 - Crediton RailRide
53.0 miles, 5141 feet of ascent* 





_Barnstaple station_​
RailRide attempt 2 was far more successful than yesterday's abortive effort. After once again arriving at the station in plenty of time for our train, we found the platform to be heaving with passengers waiting for the same train as us. Most had suitcases, so perhaps with this being a Saturday they were making their return journeys from holidays, or perhaps were Barnstaplians heading away for a break. Our concerns whether there would be enough space for us and the bikes were unfounded, and not only did we get the bikes on but also managed to secure two seats. We were on our way!





_Crediton station_​
The train follows the River Taw upstream so you enjoy the scenery a valley with a meandering river has to offer. Several small, rural stations punctuated our journey before we arrived in the pretty little station at Crediton ready for the more challenging cycling leg of our journey to begin. After traversing the town we were soon out into the countryside and onto perhaps the most challenging terrain of the trip so far. The gradients were sufficiently steep to challenge the muscles, whilst also being long enough to deplete energy reserves. And it was one after another after another. On the other hand, the route was along quiet lanes with little traffic and passed through delightful villages that time had forgotten … well, apart from the premium SUVs parked in most driveways.





_Red Lion, Shobrooke_​
Our route for the day also briefly covered roads along which we had passed several years ago whilst undertaking a LEJOG; we even paused briefly at one of our overnight stops - as the image at the end of this post shows. Other than the incorporation of the ‘Village shop’, it’s changed little in all those years. Another memory, specifically for me, was that we passed a village where a school pal (and former cycle touring buddy - we toured through Belgium and down the Rhine valley when we were sixteen) moved when his dad got a job down south. As a small, close-knit group of friends we once visited, spending each evening in the Half Moon - a 'proper' pub. It too appears to have changed little.





_Half Moon, Cheriton Fitzpaine_​
Climbing hills and enjoying expansive views then dropping into steep-sided, wooded valleys and gorges became the order of the day right through to our cafe stop in Dulverton, one of those picture-postcard places that attracts throngs of weekend visitors. The village clearly had a multitude of visitors sauntering about the streets, but so too were the residents, one even asking us if we needed help when we were discussing where to take our coffee. How thoughtful and considerate. The coffee and cakes were particularly delicious today, taken on a bench whilst watching the antics of motorists navigating the narrow streets of Dulverton. The Millionaires Slice and Frosted fruit sandwich flapjack provided much needed sustenance in preparation for the second half of our cycle leg.





_Dulverton_​
With half the distance done and over half the altitude gain secured, it was nevertheless no time to be complacent. As is so often the case, a tea shop stop was followed by a monster climb. NCN route 3 out of Dulverton immediately heads upwards, climbing a road which merits three separate single chevrons on the OS map as it scrambles for the edge of Exmoor. The ascent continues for several miles, although fortunately at a more manageable gradient. Just before being let off the hook and whilst still on one of the steeper sections, my eye was taken with something on the road ahead which seemed out of place. It was light brown, mostly about a centimetre thick and perhaps 15cm long … and it wriggled when I approached it! A slow worm! I tried to usher it into the verge, but it kept insisting on trying to cross the road - perhaps it thought it was a chicken? So I left it to its devices and continued my upward journey, hoping my slithering friend didn't end up flattened by a car tyre. (Truth be told, I was too squeamish to pick it up and toss it safely over the hedge into the field beyond!)





_ Hurriedly taken and rather poor photo of a slow worm_​
As we enjoyed superb views across to Dartmoor in the far distance, it became apparent that we might have to push on. It being a Saturday we'd had to book a table for our evening meal and had elected to return to the Ganges where we'd enjoyed such superb food a few nights earlier. The downside was that our table was booked for 18:30 and with 20 mi!es of testing terrain still to cover in just over two hours, despite our fatigued legs, we needed to get a hustle on. We knew that several miles further on we had an extended climb out of Brayford; it was only yesterday we'd suffered at its hands. But other than that it was gentle climbing which could be done at a reasonable pace, and descents where we could press on. Energy gels taken before descending kept us topped up prior to the climb and we made it back to the B&B in ample time to get a shower before heading down for our curry. Once again we enjoyed a wonderful selection of quality food, although Paul's main dish choice let him down just slightly. (_NB: when you ask if a dish on the menu is hot, and the waiter replies ‘Quite hot’, don’t be surprised when the dish is hot!_) Most importantly, our reserves were replenished in preparation for our final day's exertions tomorrow.


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## Ian H (21 Aug 2021)

Familiar territory for me, but fascinating.



mjr said:


> No, they're based in Blagdon, Somerset, on a different River Yeo.


There are several rivers called Yeo, including a couple within shouting distance of Barnstaple.


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## Johnsco (22 Aug 2021)

Again - These are much-loved places - I love Exmoor - One of my spiritual homes.


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## uphillstruggler (22 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> *Day 4 - Crediton RailRide
> 53.0 miles, 5141 feet of ascent*
> 
> View attachment 605370
> ...



That climb out of Dulverton, ouch 

Had the good (Mis)fortune of riding that loaded with bike packing kit recently. 

Your choice of area for a weeks cycling was a good one, and you’re planning is to to be admired

The image is my bike on the road out of and up from Dulverton.


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## newts (22 Aug 2021)

I used to sit on the Barle bridge fishing for trout at Dulverton whilst all the holiday traffic came & went, happy memories.


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## IaninSheffield (22 Aug 2021)

uphillstruggler said:


> That climb out of Dulverton, ouch
> 
> Had the good (Mis)fortune of riding that loaded with bike packing kit recently.
> 
> ...


Your bike looks not dissimilar to how we did after completing the ascent 
Kudos for taking it on loaded.
We passed a trio of tourers taking a break about halfway up the climb. They were ... ahem, big lads and had full sets of 4 panniers each. Braver than me!


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## IaninSheffield (22 Aug 2021)

*Day 5 - Great Torrington (recovery ride)
32.4 miles, 1640 feet of ascent* 

After the exertions of the past few days, and with a less than encouraging forecast, we felt a wind-down ride was in order. For this, our route would take us out over the hills to Great Torrington where we could pick up the Tarka Trail back to base through Bideford.





_Tawstock Castle_​
The opening section took us back down into town to pick up the first few metres of the Trail before immediately turning off onto the back roads and of course straight into a climb. A series of Devonian ascents and descents followed in quick succession, but the overall trend resulted in a gradual gain in altitude. In the midst of the upwardly path the rain which had threatened since leaving the B&B eventually broke through, forcing us to take shelter for a few minutes.





_Skillful thatchers round these parts. That, or that 'oss on the roof is damned good at Parkour_​
We managed a few miles further before the rain became more persistent, insisting we remain under tree cover. Eventually it eased sufficiently for us to make a break for Great Torrington only two miles further on where we went in search of coffee and cake. Hampered somewhat by busy traffic on the main road, we took to the pretty little back streets in search of a cafe, but none were sufficiently obliging as to be open on a Sunday.





_Great Torrington_​
However, we had a Plan B in the ‘Puffing Billy’, a trailside cafe and restaurant sited in the former Torrington station building. What's more, the rain had abated and we were able to sit at an outside table to enjoy our coffee and almond and caramel slice. Lots of families and couples seemed to have the Billy as their designated Sunday lunch stop - the food did look quite appetising.





_Lunchtime at the Puffing Billy





This heron (or maybe another) was in the same fishing spot when we passed the other day._​
With all our climbing done, half the distance covered, and the sun starting to peek through, we were in no rush to set off … at least until some rather gloomy looking clouds began to gather overhead. So on with the rain jackets which had only just dried out and homewards we set. The Trail seemed surprisingly quiet compared with the other day, especially given this was the weekend, but at least that allowed for unimpeded progress. By the time we reached Bideford, the drizzle had stopped and the sun was keen to make amends, so we crossed the bridge over the Torridge and had a brief explore of the town centre. Lots of little independent shops, interesting architecture and enticing, winding back alleys all hinted at the town's seafaring connections. Even the riverfront had more of a seafront feel.





_Instow, on the Torridge_​
Back on the Trail the sunshine held sway, accompanying us to Instow where we had a quick ride along the seafront. Long, sandy beaches stretched into the distance, though were across the mouth of the Taw and therefore inaccessible from Instow. We returned to the Trail and completed the final few miles to Barnstaple where we struggled to find a cafe open for a post-ride coffee. What our search did permit though was a wander around some of the town centre streets we'd not yet seen.





_Queen Anne's Walk, Barnstaple_​
Finally back at the B&B we stripped down the bikes and loaded them in the car ready for tomorrow's homeward journey. After a shower and a rest we made our way down through the Park into town for the last time, Wetherspoons bookending our evening repast locations. Although I'm not particularly attracted to meat-wannabe vegetarian foodstuffs, I decided to give a 'Beyond Meat' burger a try. I have to say I was sufficiently impressed that should I see one on a menu in the future, I wouldn't rule it out.


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## IaninSheffield (22 Aug 2021)

*Epilogue*

Our journey back north was largely uneventful, hampered only by periods of slow moving traffic on both the M5 and M42. Certainly less stressful and more swift than the train could have managed.

*My thoughts on north Devon?*
Taking our tour in school holiday time was a bit of a worry, especially given current circumstances when Brits have been mostly restricted from travelling abroad. Maybe it was the un-summerlike weather, but we found nowhere (other than the trains!) too crowded. Holiday makers on the roads were initially a concern, but this too proved to be unfounded; perhaps we had chosen our routes carefully?





Valley of Rocks Hotel, Lynton​
Barnstaple was a great base. As a large town it had a lot to offer including plenty of interest in its own right, a wide range of retail outlets (including a ‘BikeShed’ cycle shop), generally good road and rail access, and most importantly, a great variety of cycling routes and destinations from which to choose.
The cycling is not for the faint of heart. The landscape around these parts is far from forgiving, but is also generous in the variety and richness of the surroundings through which you pass. Moors and pasturelands, gorges and valleys, seaside towns and pretty inland villages; there’s plenty to please and delight … when your breathing returns to normal and you’re finally able to wipe the sweat from your eyes!





_Barle Valley near Simonsbath_​
The Tarka Trail. I’ve read mixed reviews about the Trail, many cyclists bemoaning how busy it can become and as a consequence how it impedes progress. If you’re on a schedule or out for a fitness session, I guess that could be the case, but for me, much of the pleasure comes from being able to take your time and enjoy interactions with a wide range of fellow cyclists. It’s stress- and traffic-free cycling along great surfaces. There are excellent, ever-changing views around each bend. There are bridges over rivers, tree-lined glades and wildlife aplenty.The trailside facilities are regular and plentiful. It’s (mostly) flat! Whether you’re a family with young children, on a tour, or out for a morning’s jaunt, it really does have much to offer.





_One of the many bridges over the Torridge from the Tarka Trail_​
I guess the main question is whether I’d go back? An unequivocal yes. There are other routes to explore in this vicinity, but since north Devon is such a large area with a wealth of other locations which could also serve as excellent bases, for variety I’d probably look elsewhere. Although my buddy Paul wouldn’t be up for it, I wonder whether a tour around the county might be feasible - there’s so much to see and so many lanes to explore. And then I think what it might have been like straining to haul a loaded touring bike up some of the climbs we’d encountered during our week. Crikey! I better get cracking before I age any further!


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## uphillstruggler (23 Aug 2021)

thanks for the cracking write ups, having cycled around the area recently myself, i can see why you would go back. its hard going at times, but with the right kit and a bit of gumption, it is a fantastic option.

one thing I always think with mostly circular rides like yours is to do them back to front as an option, I usually find there's plenty you miss going one way so the reverse route, although along the same roads, gives the 180 degree viewpoint.

Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to write them up and also posting some great images.


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## IaninSheffield (23 Aug 2021)

uphillstruggler said:


> thanks for the cracking write ups, having cycled around the area recently myself, i can see why you would go back. its hard going at times, but with the right kit and a bit of gumption, it is a fantastic option.
> 
> one thing I always think with mostly circular rides like yours is to do them back to front as an option, I usually find there's plenty you miss going one way so the reverse route, although along the same roads, gives the 180 degree viewpoint.
> 
> Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to write them up and also posting some great images.


You're welcome. I enjoy the writing; it helps to cement and augment the experience, at least for me.
Good point on reversing direction, I agree completely. Although I'd need to give myself a good talking to before taking on the descents into Woolacombe and into Lynton in the opposite direction!


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## Edwardoka (23 Aug 2021)

IaninSheffield said:


> You're welcome. I enjoy the writing; it helps to cement and augment the experience, at least for me.
> Good point on reversing direction, I agree completely. Although I'd need to give myself a good talking to before taking on the descents into Woolacombe and into Lynton in the opposite direction!


Quite right. I was so afraid of the climb back out of Lynmouth via Lynton that I opted instead for Countisbury Hill, a mere 25% at the bottom.


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## chriswoody (27 Aug 2021)

It's been great to read of your adventures and see the photos, it's made me a little homesick. Thanks for taking the time to write it up, there was some great rides and it was good to see the weather held up for you.



IaninSheffield said:


> That's quite a proving ground you had there.



I distinctly remember one day when I was thirteen, pushing my ten speed Raleigh Winner up Chalacombe hill on Exmoor. I was feeling mightily miffed and frazzled and I had a word with myself, if I was going to continue with this hobby that I was enjoying so much, then I needed to learn how to climb hills without walking! Needless to say, I developed into quite a hill climber over the subsequent years.


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## Cathryn (27 Aug 2021)

Really enjoyed all your posts! Thank you for sharing. Your writing is beautiful.


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## IaninSheffield (28 Aug 2021)

chriswoody said:


> It's been great to read of your adventures and see the photos, it's made me a little homesick. Thanks for taking the time to write it up, there was some great rides and it was good to see the weather held up for you.
> 
> 
> 
> I distinctly remember one day when I was thirteen, pushing my ten speed Raleigh Winner up Chalacombe hill on Exmoor. I was feeling mightily miffed and frazzled and I had a word with myself, if I was going to continue with this hobby that I was enjoying so much, then I needed to learn how to climb hills without walking! Needless to say, I developed into quite a hill climber over the subsequent years.


Thanks for commenting Chris. Glad I managed to stir up a few happy (?) memories.


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## IaninSheffield (28 Aug 2021)

Cathryn said:


> Really enjoyed all your posts! Thank you for sharing. Your writing is beautiful.


Kind of you to say so Cathryn. Thanks.


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## tom1209 (28 Aug 2021)

Those photos look fantastic! I’m hoping to cycle around Dartmoor soon and it’s these kind of photos that make me really look forward to it. I’m hoping the bike survives…especially if it’s sat outside my tent!


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## IaninSheffield (28 Aug 2021)

tom1209 said:


> Those photos look fantastic! I’m hoping to cycle around Dartmoor soon and it’s these kind of photos that make me really look forward to it. I’m hoping the bike survives…especially if it’s sat outside my tent!


Excellent! Hope you'll be able to let us know how it goes


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## HobbesOnTour (23 Sep 2021)

Late to the party but what a great write up!
Well done and thanks for sharing


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## keithmac (23 Sep 2021)

We've holidayed at Ilfracombe and Barnstaple a few times now, lovely part of England.

Last time we ventured out that way we ended up in Cornwall (Goonhavern).

Missed this year completely so hopefully back next year!.


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## Saracenlad (8 Feb 2022)

Another super write up Ian. Most inspirational and thanks.


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