# From Glasgow to Mallaig, 6-8 April



## Rasmus (20 Apr 2012)

I returned from this trip, my first proper attempt at a cycle tour, already two weeks ago. I haven't managed to find the time to do a write-up before now, though. Anyway, here goes...

Background:
Living in my native Denmark, cycling was always utilitarian for me - touring as a holiday option never really occurred to me. But since moving to Scotland a few years back opinions have shifted somewhat. Reading the experiences of other riders made me realize that expanding beyond day rides should be tried - especially considering the magnificent landscapes right on my doorstep.

I got my first taste last year, with a train ride to Fort William and a day ride to Glenfinnan and Back, followed by a ride down to Oban via Morvern the next day.

This year, I had decided to go for a little more challenging trip. I chose to return to the same general area, really wanting to see more of Mull, and especially wanting to visit the Ardnamurchan peninsula. Still not sure how my body would handle multiple long days in the saddle, I limited myself to a three day trip. The route then more or less logically followed. From Glasgow via Inveraray to Oban, then around Mull and the ferry to Kilchoan, and finally up the coast to Mallaig, where Scotrail would transport me back home.

The bike:
The n+1 infection has graciously not infected me, so I did the trip on my do-it-all steed, a Trek 7.3FX hybrid. Luggage-wise I travelled as light as possible, carrying only a saddlebag with tools, and a handlebar bag (altura arran) that just about manages to hold a set of clothes and a a good paperback (a Danish late cold war era thriller). Snacks and refreshments were carried in my shirt pockets.

Day 1: (Glasgow-)Dunoon-Oban
The roads to the West/Northwest of Glasgow are all well-traveled by me on day rides, so I elected to get a little help to start off the trip, also reducing the distance I needed to cover. I chose a train to Gourock and ferry over to Dunoon in favor of a train to Arrochar, in order to avoid the unpleasant Rest and be Thankful.

I left Glasgow Central early on Good Friday morning, reaching the Western Ferries terminal in time for the 0850 sailing to Dunoon. Halfway across the firth of Clyde a light drizzle started, which would follow me for more or less the entire trip. I headed up the relatively uninspired road along Loch Eck, before finding the shores of Loch Fyne. Reaching the junction with the A83 at Cairndow I took a look up a very foggy R&BT - very glad I decided not to go that way. Motorists were generally friendly, and I reached Inveraray without trouble. I had planned to eat my packed lunch in the grounds of Inveraray Castle, but they wanted an entrance fee even for that, so I never got closer than this:





Instead I took my break at the waterfront, looking across the Loch to the roads I had travelled to get here. Out of Inveraray I got my first taste of climbing, a steep ramp followed by a long slog up the B819. Soon the road dropped down to Loch Awe, and I reached another major road, the A85. A short way along the shoreline I stopped by the remarkably ornate, and completely empty St Conan's Kirk





There was no sign of Arnie, though, but I suppose a chapel for Robert the Bruce is suitable. Road sign were now showing ever-decreasing distances to Oban, but I had still a challenge to come, taking the NCN78 route on the back road from Taynuilt. The moderately hilly terrain was made worse by weary legs and a very strong wind coming in from the west. I took a break to watch this lovely couple and their offspring - they weren't too interested in me, though.





Finally the steep descent into Oban arrived, and I made my way along the espanade to the SYHA hostel, where I had booked a bunk. I was pleasantly surprised to find a locked cycle shed. I spent the late afternoon and evening buying ferry tickets, watching Papiss Cisse single-handedly defeat Swansea City, and an enormous fish&chips dinner.

Distance traveled: 125.3 km

Day 2: (Oban-)Craignure-Calgary-Tobermory-Kilchoan
Having stocked up on energy from a not very satisfactory breakfast at the hostel I made my way to the 0930 sailing to Craignure. The first 15 or so km to Salen were fairly boring, but then the adventure started!





The road around the North West of Mull (B7073) was, quite simple, spectacular! My camera can not do it justice, picking up too much of the clouds. I can only imagine what it must look like in sunshine.




It was hard work though, with a number of very steep climbs and descends. The last bit out of Dervaig was a fun experience, riding up steep hairpins into the low-hanging fog. I arrived in the picturesque village of Tobermory with about an hour to spare before the 4 pm sailing back to the mainland.





There was only one car on the ferry, but a fair number of foot passengers returning from a shopping trip. Seeing people from isolated communities taking a ferry to go shopping is perhaps not unusual, but in this case it is the mainland that is isolated!

Before the day was over I wanted to make it all the way out to the westernmost tip of the UK, Ardnamurchan Lighthouse. This should offer nice views, but on this day the main attraction was a playful dog following me around as I took a couple of snaps.




I returned along the road I came to my accommodation at the amazingly isolated Sonachan hotel, where I was provided with a very welcome shower and a nicely cooked burger. I had a three-bed bunkroom to myself for the night - an absolute bargain at £20 incl a massive cooked breakfast.

Distance traveled: 89.8 km

Day 3: Kilchoan-Mallaig(-Glasgow)
I was under some time constraints on the final day, as the train to take me home departed at 4 pm from Mallaig. Partly due to this, and partly due to deteriorating weather conditions (heavy rain), I did not stop for many pictures. I couldn't resist this view, however, from the road around Ben Hiant.




This was not the longest day, but by far the toughest. Legs weary from the steep climbs the day before meant I took it at a very steady pace up the numerous medium-sized climbs along the coast. I battled a heavy headwind along Loch Moidart, and enjoyed the help from the same wind along the beautiful shore of Loch Ailort. I was pleasantly surprised to find a well-surfaced cycle path along parts of the A830, and took the very empty scenic route through Arisaig and Morar. By this point the rain was getting heavy, and I was relieved to see Mallaig appear with an hour and a bit to spare.

Distance traveled: 100.8 km

The "most scenic train ride in the world" took me home to Glasgow. It is indeed very nice, but to be honest, I prefer the views I had seen from the saddle!

Summary:
My chosen route was fairly challenging, all three days having distances horizontal and vertical well worthy of a hard day trip on its own. Still, fitness wise I managed through it OK, which is encouraging. The bike also performed admirably, with no mechanical incidents worthy of note.

This will for sure not be my last tour - although I do hope I might get to see the sun next time!


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## toroddf (20 Apr 2012)

Excellent ride. I have done most of it myself in various years and conditions. 

Nitpicking follows....... You travelled along Loch Fyne past Strachur up past St. Catherine (whose closed shop is much mourned) and down to Inveraray again. Not Loch Long which is on the other side of Rest And Be Thankful.

I have also done your ride on Mull and I love the ride over Calgary Bay. Btw the previous inhabitants of that bay was moved to a place, now a big multi million and Olympic city in Canada called Calgary. Just wanted to get that one in..... Love the place on Mull though and the same goes for Tobermory.

Me too will do the ferry from that village over to the mainland and the ride out to Ardnamurchan Lighthouse and back again. I will probably return over to Fort Williams and Glen Coe down to Renfrew again. I have just bought a new ultra-light one man tent and will see what I can do this year. But it will be done.

Get the pictures sorted out now, fellow Viking.


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## GlasgowGaryH (20 Apr 2012)

Pictures not working for me but a good read


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## Rasmus (20 Apr 2012)

Right you are tor, got my loch's mixed up...

Looks like my photohost gave me some temporary links. Hopefully fixed now.


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## toroddf (20 Apr 2012)

You are looking for more rides too ? See this link for more good ones. It seems like you could take a look at Kintyre and Islay for ideas for more rides. I hope to do Kintyre again minus Rest And Be Thankful (will return over Otter Ferry and Rothesay) when the summer arrives.


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## Rasmus (21 Apr 2012)

I've visited your site before - an incredibly extensive resource, good job!

Arran and Kintyre are definitely at the top of my list of places to visit.


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## edindave (21 Apr 2012)

Great write-up Rasmus


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## Scoosh (24 Apr 2012)

Thanks for the great write-up and sounds like you've got the bug for touring in Scotia ! 

Really glad it all went well and that the touring bug has bitten . Just watch out for the other little bug***s later in the year ..... you have been warned .


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## Fubar (24 Apr 2012)

Nice read Rasmus, bet you're glad you had that ride round the Forth in preparation...


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## Col5632 (24 Apr 2012)

Great write up Rasmus 

Only tour i want to do in the future is lejog but im sure that will change one day


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