# Vintage Peugeot - want to upgrade gears



## Papa Lazarou (31 Jul 2011)

Hi, this is my first post...

I've been given an old Peugeot road bike, I believe it's from 1979 and the model is UO-8 (as far as I can work out).

It was meant to be a temporary measure to allow me to cycle to work for a couple of months until I'm able to apply for the cycle to work scheme (we can't apply till October!)
But with all the research and riding I've been doing, I'm thinking that I actually want to carry on using this bike - but only if I can upgrade the gears.

I want to also gradually upgrade other parts to make it lighter as it's got 27" steel wheels, steel seat post, steel handlebars, steel chainset and stainless steel mudguards/carrier, but I can live with them for a while.

It's the gears and gear changing I can't put up with... The rear changer was giving lots of problems, so I've changed it for a barely used Shimano one off an old mountain bike - this helped, but I'm still having problems. I also want to be able to change gear effortlessly while climbing, so integrated gear changing on the brakes is obviously the way to go.

I don't seem to be able to find what I need on ebay - is this a mission impossible?

Regards, Mike.


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## RecordAceFromNew (31 Jul 2011)

Am unsure what exactly the problems you are still having, but it seems the UO-8 came with a 5 speed freewheel and Simplex rear mech at the back originally.

It is unlikely for any moderately recent Shimano rear shifter, which would most probably be indexed for a predetermined number of speeds, to index properly with the Simplex rear mech and a 5 speed block. But since I have no idea what exact make and model components you have, I am just guessing this could be your problem.

I presume you have drop bars? Drop bar integrated brifters are never cheap, and aren't available for 5, 6 or 7 speed at the back, which means that if you adopt them you will also have to change your rear wheel (so that you can install an e.g. 8, 9 or 10 speed cassette), tyres and tubes (because such wheels usually are 700c and not 27" and you get far more choice with 700c), possibly your rear brake (because 700c wheels are smaller if the original brakes can't make the extra 4mm reach required), front mech (because existing vintage front mech probably won't index with the new front shifter), cassette, and a narrower chain (for the larger number of thinner spaced sprockets on the cassette).

You might also want the front wheel/tyre/tube/brake to match the rear - after all steel rims don't let you brake as efficiently as alloy ones.

As you can see, you could be talking about a fair few beer tokens, especially if you are unhappy with the steel seatpost, steel handlebar, steel crankset etc.

On the other hand, if you just want to get a thumb/stem friction shifter that will shift whatever you have at the back cleanly and efficiently, they are available. This and this are examples.

Hope it helps.


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## Papa Lazarou (31 Jul 2011)

Thanks for the reply






That's cleared things up a bit now - the fact that integrated shifters aren't available for 5 speed cassettes puts an end to the upgrade - economically speaking, of course. It would be cheaper to buy a used bike with all the different components already on.

It's a shame, because I really like the relaxed feel of the frame - very important in my book as the roads on my commute are so bumpy...


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## Angelfishsolo (31 Jul 2011)

Papa Lazarou said:


> Thanks for the reply
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Turn it into a restore project instead. Nothing inherently wrong with a 5 speed block and DT shifters. Retro seems to be back in fashion as well


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## smokeysmoo (31 Jul 2011)

I'm in the process of restoring an old 6 speed Peugeot, and I'm converting it to a 10 speed with STI shifters.

It's slightly simpler for me as I already have 700c wheels to use, but you will need to increase the rear spacing to accept a modern wheel/cassette combo. AASHTA, check THIS out. It's far easier than it may seem.

Once you remove the shifters on the downtube you can fit THESE in their place.

You can also adapt the stem to a modern stem style if you want with one of THESE

Go for it, sounds like you've got a good frame for it, mines not great. (structurally it's spot on, but it's certainly not the connoisseurs choice), but it's not easy to find them big enough when you're 6'5"


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## tyred (1 Aug 2011)

I'm a proud owner of a 1974 (ish) UO-8 and don't let the people that tell you that it's only heavy gas pipe put you off. They are heavy, yes, but ride well, are supremely comfortable and are hugely practical as the long chainstays leave lots of room for panniers. There are also mounting points for a front rack and mega clearance for mudguards and wide tyres if you wish. The Mafac centre pull brakes are excellent once you stop them from squealing. Well worth sorting out imo, but I would spend no fortune on trying to lighten it. Find a lighter frame in the first place if you want a genuinely lightweight bike.

Wheels: Budget sets of alloy rims and hub 27" wheels are easily available from Ebay and other sources and will improve braking capabilities in the wet. There is a decent range of 27" tyres available if you look, despite what some will say. These wheels tend to have Quando hubs which will last well if you ensure they are greased and adjusted properly as they seem to leave the factory with the cones overtightened and very little grease. 

The seatpost is a strange French size so you're probably stuck with that. The headset is also French threaded although the BB cups seem to be standard.

For gears, a modern Shimano or similar freewheel block with all the fancy ramps and things cut into to aid shifting and a modern chain will work wonders for gearchanges. It takes a little practice anyway to get the feel for friction shifters if you're not used to them. Bar end shifters or stem shifters are inexpensive options if you want the gear changers closer to hand. I'd go for a 14-28 block to give a useful low gear. I don't have the standard chainset but I believe it was 40/50 on most models rather than the normal 42/52 which is a good thing imo.


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## Papa Lazarou (3 Aug 2011)

I've bought a new cassette now off ebay - it's a screw-on, 7 speed, 14-28, hyperglide. Can't wait to try it.
The rear mech I've got fitted was off an old mountain bike that also had a 7 speed cassette, so it should work ok - presumably I'll need to fit a thinner chain too?


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## RecordAceFromNew (3 Aug 2011)

Papa Lazarou said:


> I've bought a new cassette now off ebay - it's a screw-on, 7 speed, 14-28, hyperglide. Can't wait to try it.
> The rear mech I've got fitted was off an old mountain bike that also had a 7 speed cassette, so it should work ok - presumably I'll need to fit a thinner chain too?



There is a chance you have a problem if you have a 5 speed currently.

If the distance between the lock nuts of your rear wheel (or distance between the rear dropouts) is 120mm, you will find that you won't be able to just replace a 5 speed block with a 7 and go. 7 speed hubs are 126mm. A 5 speed hub/wheel can be converted to take a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but it is a bit of a job (requiring spacers, redishing wheel and respacing the frame).

I was not aware you are also interested in increasing the number of speeds at the back.


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