# Harz Mountains Autumn Overnighter.



## chriswoody (21 Oct 2022)

The Harz Mountains is a highland area in Northern Germany that rises to a height of over 1000 metres from the surrounding plain. The name Harz derives from the Middle High German word _Hardt_ or _Hart_ (hill forest) and the whole area is deeply forested giving rise to an amazing network of gravel forest roads. During the cold war the border between East and West Germany ran right through the heart of this area and the highest peak in the area, the Brocken lay in the Soviet East and was home to a Soviet listening station.

My route starts in the town of Goslar, which lies on the edge of the Northern German plain and the lower slopes of the Harz and after a gentle few metres it's straight into climbing mode as we start to gain height rapidly. Over the next 10 kilometres I gain nearly 500m over gravel forest roads. Views are already opening out to the West of me as I climb higher.







As I get near to the top of my climb, I can hear the sounds of heavy machinery and in the forest immediately around me there is some large tree felling going on, most of the spruce around here is being grown commercially and there is extensive felling work going on. Unfortunately the foresters have only placed closed signs on some of the trails and I'm approaching from a different direction. I stop as a large machine is hauling a trunk onto a lorry and wait to be waved through as they look at me. The trail finally starts to level off and we roll along quite quickly on mellow roads.






All to soon though the tarmac gives way to gravel and the start of a 7km descent. What should be fun and fast soon turns into a nightmare. The heavy machinery that has been up here logging has destroyed the ground and it's kilometres of muddy quagmire that I'm faced with. I'm soon completely covered in gooey mud and the bike is skating around all over the place, it's all quite frustrating.






At the bottom of the next valley there's a series of reservoirs that feed the nearby cities and I'm relieved to be riding on tarmac for a short stretch. There is a segregated path and I'm riding along and enjoying the views across the water as plenty of folk are walking around.






After a couple of kilometres I'm again turning away from the road and onto gravel as I follow a deeply wooded valley for a few kilometres. I'm completely alone out here as I slowly gain height again. The sides of the valley are forested with spruce and occasional patches of oak, which bring some autumn colour to the steep sides. I take a rest next to the stream that accompanies me on my journey and have a snack and drink.






Eventually we reach the head and the path rises steeply, climbing up out of the valley. The last kilometre is a steep hike a bike section over rough broken ground. Crossing the road at the top and we're straight back onto a gravel descent bringing me down toward the path that runs around the Oderteich Reservoir. It's incredibly scenic around here and the riding is superb I'm loving every minute.






The stretch down the side of the reservoir is an amazing section of techy single track requiring concentration on the gravel bike. The reservoir is one of the honey pot sites and lots of folk are here, the car park is full and there is a buzz of folk. Looking across the water is a stark site, the water levels are perilously low from years of drought, but worse still is the forest behind. The forests here are heavily managed, but in recent years the droughts and storms have served to batter and weaken the spruce's. This has enabled the bark beetle to move in and infest the forests to plague levels. Millions of acres have been infected and whilst strong healthy trees can fight the infestation, the weakened trees can't, the corpses of the trees litter the landscape all around.






I turn from the crowds and head back into solitude, the next hour is an amazing ride. The gravel road contours around the side of a valley which falls further away the further I ride. The forest slowly turns from the infected spruce to more hardy deciduous trees, like Sessile Oak and Beech, which are glowing an amazing colour in the Autumn sun.






The afternoon is drawing on and I'm in a real happy place, after the last big descent, followed by ascent, we are back onto a lovely gravel road that rises and falls gently through broken forests, the high hills of the Brocken and the Wurmberg are visible through breaks in the trees and we pass over a section of the infamous "PanzerPlatten" which is a subtle reminder of the past and how we have crossed into the old East Germany.






I shortly ride into the town of Benneckenstein and can see the old soviet inspired architecture of the apartment blocks, renovated in bright colours, a short ride away is a building proclaiming to be a museum to old DDR transport, sadly it's pretty dilapidated and shut. I'm entering the last kilometres now and plunge onwards on gravel roads to my overnight spot. Wild Camping is strictly prohibited in the Harz, so I'm not carrying a tent with me and instead I'm heading to a hut I've heard about. These German forests are full of open huts where you can take a break and if need be, bivy for the night. For the most part they are three sided with rough earth floors and frankly not that appealing. Occasionally though you come across one like the Kapitelsberg Hütte, which is something else.






Not only is this fully enclosed with a stone floor, but the walls are insulated with lambs wool. As well as tables and chairs inside, it has a barbeque area outside and hanging on the wall of the hut is the metal grill. The place is beautifully clean and tidy and overseen by a local village, who implore you look after it. I settle in for the night and make a lovely meal of pasta with a homemade tomato sauce with capers, olives and sun dried tomatoes. I was just missing some wine to wash it down!

Overall I've covered 68 kilometres and 1330 metres of climbing.


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## chriswoody (22 Oct 2022)

*Day Two*

It was a cold night last night, with temperatures down to 2 degrees and I awake to a white frost blanketing everything. I brew a fresh coffee and look out over the view to the hills in the distance. In the centre of the picture you can just make out the Aerial and buildings on the summit of the Brocken, my target for today.






I finish my breakfast of homemade Granola, washed down with coffee and pack the bike up. Setting of in completely the wrong direction for a kilometre before re-orienting myself and finding the correct trail. The route starts pleasantly enough, gently gaining height on good gravel roads, the air biting and cold, but the skies clear and blue. Then after 6 kilometres I hit the first Panzerplatten of the day. The Panzerplatten were laid by the soviets for their armoured vehicles to patrol the old border and for the next 6 kilometres these blasted things would severely test me. The holes were big enough to swallow my wheels and threaten punctures, the middle and edges contain deep holes hidden by the vegetation.






It was with great relief when I could turn away and onto gravel roads that head down towards the town of Schierke which lies directly under the Brocken. Riding over the hillside towards the town I could see the Brocken in all its glory and the heavily wooded slopes that clad its sides. The events at the end of September has thrown lots of conflicting ecological thinking and climate change into stark relief. The Spruce that clad it's slopes have been heavily affected by the bark beetle and ecologists have advocated for leaving the dead trees be, then at the end of September the worst happened, the tinder dry slopes ignited and burned for eight days. There has been no end of controversy though, from wether the dead trees should have been left where they fell to provide dry tinder, to just how much forest actually burnt. It's a story that will no doubt rumble on for a while here.






The lovely gravel roads are giving me some fantastic riding though and soon I'm in the town of Schierke and onto the private road that leads up to the summit. The 10 kilometres of tarmac signify the largest stretch of tarmac riding on the route, but it is welcome. I settle into a steady rhythm and slowly wind my way up, several e-bikes and racing bikes fly past me, but I'm super content in my own world, spinning the cranks and totally immersed in my surroundings. The higher I get the more people I see and then finally I'm rounding the last corner, the wind is super strong and threatening to blow me over, but I've made it pedaling the whole way. I shelter in the lee of the buildings and throw on a couple of extra layers, before going for a wander to admire the view. The Brocken receives on average 60 days cloud free a year and luckily today is one of those days.






The view across the valley to the Wurmberg reminds me of the tales my father in law tells of growing up in West Germany. West Germans would climb up there and gaze across the valley at the Brocken, which was then in the Soviet controlled East and wonder what it would be like to tread on it's summit.





Today, not only can you freely wander up to the summit and gaze out at the wonderful views, you can also take the steam train up here from Schierke and save the strain of walking.






From the summit, the logical route to take is due North and down towards the Ecker reservoir, however, most of this way is on the infamous Panzerplatte. So I retrace my steps South, back down the road for 3km, then sharp on the brakes and swing North onto the Gelber Brink gravel road and then onto the Ecker reservoir. This way is over 6 km longer, but all downhill on lovely gravel roads and provides a real stern test of courage and brakes. The whole way down the path is flanked by the dead Spruce, it's quite an eerie and sad sight.






My front brake was gently cooking by the time we reached the junction with the direct path down and then I head on down to the Ecker. The path here is lovely and smooth and the reservoir provides a quick rest spot to shed some layers now we are out of the cold and wind.






After skirting the shore for a while I swing away and start heading downhill again, however, this time we hit problems as the next two steep kilometres are over the Panzerplatte and it becomes impossible to ride. I give up and walk when there is just no good way to ride these horrendous things. At the bottom is a beautiful river valley and like most parts of this ride, not a soul to be seen, I am truly alone out here in this stunning landscape.






As before though, I need to get out of this valley and that means riding uphill, however, here the woodland is completely deciduous and everything is carpeted in golden leaves. My legs are tired now and I'm riding slowly but that's fine, I'm totally content and relaxed.






At the summit I start to descend on a small road, then off onto another deserted path, then I come across several trees crashed down across the path. Lots of lifting and pushing to get the bike through, one time I'm perched precariously over a trunk balancing the bike, whilst a steep drop off to my side is giving me cause for concern, with one final heave we're through and then 5 minutes later we're in the town of Bad Harzburg.

From here it's only 15 km back to Goslar, along wooded trails and paths. For some reason though I find it an unremitted slog, it just goes on and on and I never seem to get closer. It's not helped by the constant up and down nature of the route on my tired legs and I really struggle to find any rythm or enjoyment. Finally though the roofs of the town hove into view and we gratefully reach the end. Overall It's been an amazing Autumnal ride though through some truly spectacular scenery and I feel a sad melancholy that it's over, but I will cherish the memories of some lovely trails.

Today was 62 kilometers and 1268 metres of ascent.

Overall 130 km and 2600m of ascent over the two days.


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## Pat "5mph" (23 Oct 2022)

Great ride report, beautiful pictures.
I really enjoyed following you on your trip @chriswoody, thanks for sharing.


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## cougie uk (24 Oct 2022)

Sounds like a proper adventure. I'm jealous !


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## Arrowfoot (24 Oct 2022)

Great ride report and well composed pictures. Beautiful place. 

Any chance of bike spec and tour set-up when it is more convenient?


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2022)

It's got it all - great nature, interesting history and a few unexpected challenges!

I think post war German history is fascinating. To be able to cycle around the old border, see the remains of it, hear the stories of the "old days" and see the modern reality must be so interesting. 

Thanks for the write up.

@dimrub might be interested in reading this. 

Question (Sorry!)
The overheating disc brakes. Is there anything you can do to cool them down? 
I'm presuming not, so how long does it take for them to cool down "naturally"?
And what would happen if you ignored the heat and kept on going? 
Thank you.



chriswoody said:


> I was just missing some wine to wash it down!


You poor bikepackers!
Us tourers are never without!


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## chriswoody (24 Oct 2022)

Thanks everyone.

@Arrowfoot the bike is a steel framed Kona Sutra LTD. With 47 mm tires set up tubeless, SRAM Rival 1x groupset, and my prefered touring set up of 28 tooth chainring married to a 10 - 42 cassette. The brakes are Hope RX4 Hydraulic calipers. Brooks Cambium C17 saddle and Salsa Cowchipper bars, 500mm wide with 24 degrees of flare. Overall it's a really capable go anywhere bike built for long days in the saddle.

As far as touring set up goes:

The front bag is a Topeak frontloader with a Sea2Summit ultralight air mat, Sea2Summit Areos inflatable pillow, Mountain Equipment Helium Down Sleeping bag, Alpkit Hunker Bivy Bag. Small first aid kit, Toothbrush, toothpaste and some liquid soap.

Rear Bag is a Topeak Backloader with a Down Jacket, Alpkit Gilet, Lightweight fleece Jumper, Spare socks, Waterpoof Jacket and Waterproof trousers (The waterproofs are the only kit I didn't use on the trip). Kindle. Cooking set comprising MSR Pocket Rocket Stove, Pan set and Gas canister.

Frame bag is an Apidura 5l bag with a 1.5 litre water bladder, mug, Aeropress coffee press, windproof fleece gloves.

Revelate Designs Mag Tank on the top tube behind the stem with a Lezyne mini pump, Buff, Fleece hat.

Muc Off tool caddy under the downtube with some spare tools.

Then scattered all throughout the bags is food for the trip, from Flapjacks to dried fruit to homemade energy balls.



HobbesOnTour said:


> The overheating disc brakes. Is there anything you can do to cool them down?
> I'm presuming not, so how long does it take for them to cool down "naturally"?
> And what would happen if you ignored the heat and kept on going?
> Thank you.



Cooling down just involved taking a five minute breather and letting them cool down naturally. In reality they just stunk a fair bit and the disk was really hot, the performance never dipped. I suppose if I had kept going then the pads would have become glazed, which would have resulted in a small loss of performance and a lot of squealing every time they were subsequently used. I also had a spare pair of pads with me if I needed to change them.



HobbesOnTour said:


> You poor bikepackers!
> Us tourers are never without!



I know, I know the sacrifices I make to keep up with the latest trends and do what the marketing folk want, which reminds me I need to check how many likes and follows I've got on my insta account


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2022)

Thank you!


chriswoody said:


> Cooling down just involved taking a five minute breather and letting them cool down naturally. In reality they just stunk a fair bit and the disk was really hot, the performance never dipped. I suppose if I had kept going then the pads would have become glazed, which would have resulted in a small loss of performance and a lot of squealing every time they were subsequently used



A further question if you will.....
Is there a fluid or oil that needs to be changed in your brakes?
If so, does overheating increase the frequency of changing that oil.
And what about mud and muck. Does that affect the braking or interfere with or damage the pads?



chriswoody said:


> I also had a spare pair of pads with me if I needed to change them.


How straightforward is it to change them "on the road"?




chriswoody said:


> I need to check how many likes and follows I've got on my insta account



I haven't been able to figure Instagram out - can you help me? 

Sorry for dragging off topic.


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## chriswoody (24 Oct 2022)

HobbesOnTour said:


> A further question if you will.....
> Is there a fluid or oil that needs to be changed in your brakes?
> If so, does overheating increase the frequency of changing that oil.
> And what about mud and muck. Does that affect the braking or interfere with or damage the pads?



The brakes are filled with DOT 5.1 Fluid which is the same fluid used in car braking systems. Heating wise the fluid has a boiling temperature of around 300°C when new, so the chance of me boiling the fluid is minimal. Heavy use, like on this tour, will not unduly impact the system at all. The downside to DOT 5.1 is that it's hygroscopic, so it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere through microscopic pores throughout the system. Over time the water build up not only increases the sponginess off the brakes, but reduces the overall boiling point of the fluid, potentially reducing it to not much more than the boiling point of water. To combat this, the brakes need bleeding, usually annually is enough, to remove the excess water. Bleeding the brakes involves two syringes, new brake fluid and lots of patience, not a job for out on the trail.

The beauty of disc brakes is that mud, muck and rain don't adversely affect their performance, they just work and work well. The only affect you might see from horrible conditions is increased wear of the pads. They are quite small and light so carrying a spare pair or more is no issue, likewise changing them is similarly easy. First remove the wheel, then the pads are held in place with a pin, which in turn, will have a small split pin as security. The pin will either be a 5mm hex key or Torx 25 bit, and once removed the pads drop out. Use a plastic tyre lever to gently push back the pistons and then pop in the new pads. 5mins work max. To really do the job properly you should also bed the pads in, basically bringing them up to temperature by progressively using them more and more over a period of quick runs. This prevents them from squealing like mad when there used, I like silent disk brakes! 

Another positive is that no matter how bad the conditions, it's only the disc thats getting worn and not the wheel rim. The disc's like the pads are pretty easy and inexpensive to replace, though in reality they last for many thousands of kilometres.

I've actually swapped out the original SRAM calipers on my bike for HOPE ones. Annoyingly the seals on the pistons failed on the SRAM caliper and I couldn't get replacements. HOPE calipers are not only much more powerful, but fully rebuildable and HOPE being a small British company, actually offer support for all of the products for many years after production.



HobbesOnTour said:


> I haven't been able to figure Instagram out - can you help me?



Well that was a slightly tongue in cheek comment! though I did sign up a few years back because I was fed up that I couldn't access some of the content without being a member. I just posted one picture up there and now just use it to follow things like the Rough Stuff Fellowship archive.


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## HobbesOnTour (24 Oct 2022)

@chriswoody 
Many thanks for the very detailed reply.
After some recent experiences I'm reconsidering my attitude to disc brakes but not being terribly mechanically minded I'm perturbed at the ability (my ability!) to repair/maintain/adjust on the fly.

I very much appreciate your reply


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## Cathryn (31 Oct 2022)

Glorious pictures and write up!! Thank you!


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## steveindenmark (2 Nov 2022)

Thanks for this write up Chris. Do you have a GPX track for this? I may be coming down before the end of the year and would like a route with Brocken added in.

I have fond memories of the Harz mountains. I was stationed in Hannover for 4 years and went to Silberhutte in the Harz for a month each winter for mountain warfare training.


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## chriswoody (2 Nov 2022)

Hi @steveindenmark these are the links to the route:

This is the actual route I descended off of the Brocken:

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/41195603?privacy_code=vvdil8sJOCBnjSNk

This is the complete day two route including the ascent of the Brocken, however, this route contains the descent down the infamous "Panzer platten":

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/40894536?privacy_code=wb3KT9yaOCImjz5p

This is the first days ride from Goslar:

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/40894277?privacy_code=DNU3XmBFmbdx3afa

Below are the GPX tracks for the ride I made a few years back where I rode to the Harz from home. Here's the track from Hildershiem to Langelsheim:

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/29717273?privacy_code=BqvEi34Evyy7Dk1s

Then from Langelsheim over the Brocken.

https://ridewithgps.com/routes/29762393?privacy_code=K9i8LhfFAIMmlsri

Have fun if you do make it down for a ride.


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## steveindenmark (2 Nov 2022)

Thanks for the those Chris. I will sort something out. 🙂


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## matticus (10 Nov 2022)

chriswoody said:


> I turn from the crowds and head back into solitude, the next hour is an amazing ride. The gravel road contours around the side of a valley which falls further away the further I ride. The forest slowly turns from the infected spruce to more hardy deciduous trees, like Sessile Oak and Beech, which are glowing an amazing colour in the Autumn sun.



That's a stunning picture. I assume the pale trunks are the sickly spruces. If so, that's sad, as they are what makes this picture so special.


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## chriswoody (10 Nov 2022)

Thanks @matticus.

You're right it is the sickly spruces, it is a quite tragic and moving sight as you ride through this landscape, along with the unnaturally low water levels in the reservoirs. 

It is however, a complex picture as always, Spruce is native to these hills at elevations above 800m, but it's value in the timber industry has led to its cultivation at much lower levels in much denser plantations. Ultimately these densely packed plantations are more susceptible to damage with the warmer drier weather and the increase propensity to stronger, more frequent storms. The trees are then much more susceptible to the bark beetle, which thrives in these conditions.

Ultimately though, whilst in the short term it looks horrific, it may lead to a more radical rethink about how these areas are managed and maybe see a return to more native vegetation cover in the longer term?


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